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Greetings!

Last week my Possible father in law (haha) macbook pro decided to give us a failing drive and its being delt with. Last night however i was installing Photoshop elements for my room mate on his old HP/Compaw nc6400 and after the restart the computer kept blue screening and restarting. I tried to then boot it into Safe mode with no avail. I immediately copied all his personal data off the drive. The weird part was when i tried to connect it to my windows machine the drive kept asking for a format. So i simply used my macbook. EVERYTHING copied just fine.

Windows 7 decided to try to repair startup and the machine rebooted doing checkdisk and it found 60kb in bad sectors. I decided today to run HDD Regen and thats been scanning since 11am today. So far the software has found over 1400 delays.

So just as a second OPINION.. This old drive (its a 100Gb Sata hitachi i think is the manufacturer) is on its way out. Right?

 Sounds that way...I certainly wouldn't trust it and would be replacing it asap.Its still doing the scan in HDD regenerator and its now at 2000+ delays and 61% completed. I'm lettting it finish and then definitely replacing it. sadly all i have is a 80Gb 5400RPM drive though.. oh well it will do just fine for him.

Thanks for confirming my issue. Well appreciated. There is no point i going further.
That device now qualifies as a doorstop.
No further testing needed.
Guess how old 100G HDD's are ? ?Well the laptop is from 2005. the scan went on for 5 hours and found 3700 delays. I just gave up then and plopped in my 80gb that ill be donating to my roomie. I just had to burn a x86 copy of windows 7 cause the C2D centrino is a 32bit. it gave me an error when i tried a 64 bit disk. The 100gb drive was hot and smelled of burning. RIP> Services will be held Saturday at 10:00 AM for all who would like to attend...One more THING i have to ask. And haha Patio. I have the system up and going and even with a Legal copy of windows 7 pro thanks to our University. But there are 2 things making me mad. One. The old drive although loaded with errors will not mount to a windows machine. It just asks to be formatted while on a mac/linux mounts just fine.

The second is the laptops multimedia keys. The laptop is a Hp/Compaq nc6400 and Since its only a Intel T2500 its a 32bit so 32bit windows 7 pro. On hps site i got all the drivers from the Vista home and business 32bit section but the multimedia keys where not the same they where before. Its a windows XP driver which buggs out every time the computer screen dims and the mute button light on the keyboard appears. Ive tried finding the vista/7 driver for it without any luck. Ive installed 3RVX the volume application. It works and rarly bugs out. Ive tried finding the old driver on the old hard drive with still no luck.. Why would you continue to try and mount a failing HDD ? ?

As to your other issues your stating it's an XP PC that had at 1 time Vista Drivers and now it's running Win7...is that accurate ? ?

If so ...all bets are off.no. The computer had windows 7 when it the drive failed. And it had all the drivers. But the HP site only had up to windows Vista drivers which seem to work fine. But the driver for the HP media keys (so the top row/volume keys) and i tried to mount it to get the drivers. which i did through my macbook. But the Vista driver that i download for these keys turns out to be a XP driver because it bugs out and throws compatibility issues. This computer being originally licensed to XP when new is now and was before it crashed running 7 pro.

All other drivers are working. I'm thoroughly confused by that latest explanation...Sorry...Alright let me try and explain this in another way. The system when brand new was and still is licensed to windows XP pro.

When the 100Gb drive died it was then running windows 7 pro 32bit. My issue is the Hp drivers site. HP doesnt have a windows 7 section for drivers for this machine. It only has XP drivers and windows vista. So i used the vista section to download all my drivers and everything worked except for the Hp media buttons (the volume/mute/ displace brightness etc) Im stating it looks like HP made a mistake and placed a XP driver in the Vista section and therefore my Media keys dont work properly and the mute light keeps appearing. THe XP driver keeps telling me there are compatibility issues. 

That is why i was trying to mount the old drive. Because the old drive has the correct driver. But Just like when i got his data and again now it wouldnt mount to windows. In windows it would ask to format the drive. So i ended up finding the driver on the old drive but it was the installed files. So simply all the dll. sys files. i dont really know what to do with it all.Bottom LINE is if it's an HP XP PC and they dont have Win7 drivers available then you're obviously gonna lose some funtionality on the PC if you insist on running Win7...

NOTE: You could try a clean install of 7 on the new HDD...then DLoad and install all Vista drivers from HP ....but no guarantees there as well...
I understand that. BUt somehow who ever programmed it before me had the correct hp button software. and i have the files. Just dont know how to get windows to see them. I got the right ones from the bad drive. comda, what driver package are you trying to install, is it sp38266?  I've had experience of HP messing up their driver downloads, I think I have an identical machine in the cupboard somewhere at work and if so, I'll see if I can dig it out and try what you're trying, see if we can work this out together.

Also, HP setup files by default extract to C:\swsetup, is there a swsetup directory on your old drive?  If so, try matching the spxxxxx numbers to driver packages, one may be what you're looking for and that folder should contain the files you need.

Hi everyone I have a Windows 8 hp laptop that is about a year old and for the past few months I have been hearing a WEIRD rattling sound Inside it it happens most often when my laptop GETS tilted  or put on an angle like on my LEGS or when I let it rest on the top part to stop the fan from over Heating when I LEAVE. It sounds almost like there is a bit of plastic or metal inside it that keeps hitting the inside of my laptop SOMEWHERE but I don't know where. I think it might be inside the fan. If it is inside the fan how do you open the fan so I can get it out? Sorry if this is hard to understand I'm Not very  good at writing this kind of stuff :p all help would be appriciated

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Easiest method of figuring out what it is would be top open it. That is if you feel comfortable enough to do so without damaging it. Its probably a piece of plastic although if it was a small screw which then came into contact with electronics it could kill the system.

If it were my computer, I would open it and remove the stray piece vs taking risk of killing it if it shorts or stops a fan etc.

Hello,

I have chosen a I5 4590 cpu, Asus strix GTX970 gpu on the AsRock H97m Pro4 mobo.
Are these parts going to work together?
How much FPS should I get on high settings  (games like BF4, Assassin's Creed Unity, Farcry,...) on a 1080p MONITOR?

Thanks!When are you ever actually going to buy this?  This is the third(?) time you have come here asking about a build, getting help and then coming back with the same thing but slightly TWEAKED STARTING the whole process again.

I like helping with builds, but not when the advice appears to then get ignored.

What is wrong with:
Quote

CPU: Intel i5-4590
CPU cooler: Cooler Master 212evo
GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti FTW 2GB
MOBO: ASUS h97M-E
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 Advanced
RAM: Crucial 8GB (2x4gb) Ballistix Sport
HDD: 1TB Seagate Barracuda
PSU: XFX PRO550W Core Edition

Mobo: Asus Z97-A ATX LGA1150
Cpu: Intel i5 4690 (3,5ghz)
Cpu cooler: cooler master HYPER 212
Gpu: ASUS strix GTX970, 4gb
Psu: Corsair RM650
Case: Cooler Master Scout 2 Advanced
Ram: Corsair 8gb DDR3 1866Mhz Vengeance Pro (red)
And 2 fans for in the case (BitFenix Spectre red LED).

When are you ever actually going to buy this?  This is the third(?) time you have come here asking about a build, getting help and then coming back with the same thing but slightly tweaked starting the whole process again.

I like helping with builds, but not when the advice appears to then get ignored.

What is wrong with:
or

hello I need to buy a new hdd and my hard drive is MK8032GSX 80GB HDD2D32
Interface is ATA
Transfer  is SATA/150
tried looking on god's creation but ones that I found where way out there on price. cheapest one was $100 bucks plus shipping from England. any way my question is can anyone tell me a comprible hard drive that I can buy which is fairly cheap because I never bought a hard drive and I really need exact numbers and exact brand names or whatever so I can get a hard drive to replace the one that's slowly dying so help if anyone can

thanks a lot

ckch03You can buy any 2.5 inch SATA hard drive, no need to match the model exactly, and it should be much cheaper than that - half at most I would imagine, for a much higher capacity drive.
If you LET us know whereabouts in the world you are, I'm sure we'll be able to find some links for drives that'll work for you.ok where in the world am I am in japan and its very hard to get compter parts here believe it not its really trueAs Calum STATED any 2.5" SATA HDD will be a fine replacement...If you're unsure of what to look for, please POST any sites you can buy from in Japan and we'll SEE if we can find what you need.Good IDEA there Calum...

How's everything ?Not too bad, all things considered...hence posting a little more recently Welcome Home...once again...

My screen goes to blue screen of death lol, and it says stop c0000021fatal system error the windows logon process system process terminated unexpectedly with a STATUS if 0xc00000139 (0x000000 0x00000000) the system has beem shut down.......or something like that, try rebooting, and it reboots, but goes straight to the blue screen, could not even reach the option of safe mode only 2 options of Hard Disk or CDROM, both the same RESULT, then i managed to GET to the screen with the options by pressing f8 when the screen goes black when the computer starts up, so i try safe mode, then SEE the windows icon, but still blue screen,try all other options but still not working....i have a pentium d computer lol, xp, ....been looking for hours online for a solution but the only things i see us either take pc in for repair or get a recovery cd? I was wondering if there was any other options please? I was also hoping i could somehow get some of my data? Any way i could put the data on a disc? I also have a USB pen drive, any way i could transfer data into there?.Any help would be appreciated, thank you.In your case you need either another computer or a local friend.  You want a USB boot device taht has a version of Linux on it. Linux is free, so there is to license issue. You boot with the Linux USB thing and then copy you personal data onto your USB drive.
After you have a backup,  try and install XP again from the XP CD. You will need the product key again. Even tho XP is out of date, it is still a licensed item.

BTW, the best time to make a backup is before trouble happens.

Old pc:core2duo e7400,p5kpl-am[mainboard],2gb ram,Gtx750ti,500gb HHD,Windows XP,420W psu.

NEW pc:I5 4590,MSI H81M-P33(mainboard)4gb ram,Gtx750ti,500gb hhd,windows xp,500W psu

My new computer ,Which is mostly new .Today ,when I play gta4 .computer suddenly Shut off And I Cant open it again.I thought that is Because the BAD psu problem(6yrs ago,420W)So I change it to 500W new psu.also changed cpu And motherboard.I MAKE sure all cables right And try to boost it,I see green light And Shut off very quickly(not more than 1s but My old psu boosting is TOTALLY dead Because no Green light )How can I solve this?cables error?most all things is new!!please list out all solutions PlZ!!!

I bought a Lexar Platinum II 8gb 200x compact flash card to use as a boot drive { my machine has jumper for cf to be c:\ } and at first it did not show as c: drive at all . I used Lexar usb tool to flip the removable media bit and it then showed as c: drive but could not read or write and said incorrect drive perimeters error . I changed the jumper back and now as a slave I could fdisk and format so I made 4 partitions and formated them no problem . After I tried c drive , same problem as before , but works perfect as  the slave { installed win98se , runs perfect } . When I checked the bios as c: drive it said 12000 {approx.}cylinders  20 heads and 63 sectors but as slave it reports 16000 {approx }cylinders 16 heads and 63 sectors . I tried inputing the drive perimeters but no go . I've never seen a drive report 20 heads before so I assume that explains the error incorrect drive perimeters thing and I assume my CF card was never meant to act as a boot drive . My C: drive is a 64mb dom , hence the interest in a bigger C: drive . I wanted to run dos and win3.11 but quite the squeeze for a full install . So my questions are , do you have to get a purpose built CF card to be a boot drive ? What specs should I look for ? A simple answer would be NO. No, you do not need a spacial flash drive..
You are using Windows 98 SE. Right?
It was not meant to boot from a flash drive. Windows 98 installs on the first hard drive it finds.  But there is a way to make it use a flash drive.
But why do you need to boot from a flash drive?
Have you read the tutorials? There are several out there.
You can GOOGLE:
Boot Windows 98 from a flash drive
And find hundreds, even thousands of people who did it.
Here is just one of so many:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Qd7cDbtwj4
Quote

In this installation, C:\ drive is your flash dis

Microsoft MS-DOS versions 4.0 and later allow FDISK to partition hard disks up to 4 gigabytes (GB) in size. However, the MS-DOS file allocation table (FAT) file system can support only 2 GB per partition. Because of this fact, a hard disk between 2 and 4 GB in size must be broken down into multiple partitions, each of which does not exceed 2 GB.
NOTE: Windows 95 OEM Service Release version 2 and later support drives larger than 2 GB using the FAT32 file system. For more information about the FAT32 file system, please see the following article in the Microsoft Knowledge Base:
ARTICLE-ID: 154997
TITLE : Description of the FAT32 File System

You need to do some research and get up to date. A hard drive formatted to work with a OS that has a history going back some 30 plus years differs from what is now common practice.  So do not think it is the fault of the drive. It is not.
BYW: How old is the BIOS of your PC?

I am having a panic attack as I just lost 1 tb of my files.

I purchased a 250GB ssd as an upgrade for my 80gb one. I backed up my 1TB harddrive 2 DAYS ago, and was going to back up the 80gb SSD onto the harddrive, but I accidentally cloned it. When my computer rebooted the 1TB HDD was renamed to the E: drive, the H: drive is GONE (NOTHING BRINGS it back up) Everything that was on my hard drive is gone, and I can't find out how to remove or restore old options. The drive now thinks it's only an 80 GB drive also. I had many important files on the hard drive. ANYTHING information you can help me with would be great!No need to triple POST....

Topic Closed.

My Samsung laser printer went out on me last week.  I picked up this refurbished HP Laserjet P1505 printer that did not come with a  driver CD or an installation guide. I can't figure out if the front door is supposed to stay open with the stack of papers in it.  All my other printers have doors that close with the papers in it.  I have always had  CD supplied with my other printers and that was easy to install.  This one has a 60 day warranty & has no CD or user guide.  If I could get it printing I could easily print out the user guide;however, that is not the case.  I went to HP site and I tried to download  a driver from their site;however since I don't have Windows 10 it looks like I'm out of luck.  Once I get Win 8.1 that might help. I'm a little behind and having to get this somewhat new printer doesn't help with finances.  I tried to install it manually;however the plug n play wizard won't recognize it.  I just want to get it going but I just don't know where to start.   Can anyone GIVE me some step by step help or help me get started?  I thank you in advance for your replies.

LisaLisa, please clarify. Did you see this?
http://support.hp.com/us-en/product/HP-LaserJet-P1500-Printer-series/3435666/model/3435667/drivers
(Photo from the HP site.)

You can read the user manual on line.
http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c01067075
Does that help?This looks like a budget home type printer. My Canon laser printer (see picture) has an open paper feed tray like the picture. It can be folded up when empty, and for packing and transport, and looks like a "door" but you have to have it folded out and lying flat to hold the paper. Otherwise you cannot print. A lot of budget laser printers are like that. Likewise the paper output is a flap too. Close that and the printer will jam! You don't get fancy trays at these prices.

As for the driver CD you can get a download from the HP website which says "HP LaserJet P1005/P1006/P1500 Printer Series Full Feature Software and Driver: This full software solution is the same solution as the in-box CD that came with your printer." It says it works on Windows 7.



By the way this Canon was a bargain! Brand new 48 UK pounds, plus shipping 5 pounds, about 75 US dollars, and it came with a full capacity 2,000 page toner cartridge (not a smaller starter one like some brands) which has not yet run out. We don't use it a lot. I got it in July 2008! I can get a compatible re-manufactured cartridge for 12.99 pounds, about 20 dollars, or a bottle of toner to do my own refills for about 5.70 pounds, 9 dollars, but I don't fancy doing that really, having seen a few toner disasters at work. For mine you have to make a hole in the cartridge and insert a plug after refilling. You can buy a thing like a SOLDERING iron to melt the hole. A re-manufactured cartridge is cheap enough.


Salmon Trout & Geek pm,
Thanks for your input.  I went to  HP's site. I got nothing. Their "download & install assistant" must be down.  The BUTTON that's supposed to start the download isn't working.  I contacted HP support right now & I am hoping that they have another site that I can go to for this download.  Sometimes these companies can send an email with a link to a site that has the proper download.  I've been through this before with other STUFF.  I'll never buy anything again from HP if I don't get this resolved.  I'll let you know if HP comes through with what I need.  Thanks again.Thane of the file is:
ljP1000_P1500-HB-pnp-win32-en.exe
It takes some effort to find it.
Lisa, do you have a drop box or Google drive account?
If you wish,
If so, open a public folder and give me a password.
Use PM to send me details. If you want to.

Hi

Here is the link for the drivers for your printer and windows XP

http://support.hp.com/us-en/product/HP-LaserJet-P1500-Printer-series/3435666/model/3435667/driversI finally got my printer going!  HP told me I might have to upgrade to IE 9.  I was also told that I could not do that until I upgraded to Win 8.1.  I got lucky & checked in the Control Panel under printers noticed that the software driver did show up in the box.  I checked  "properties" when I clicked on the driver & then it asked if I wanted to test print. I clicked "yes" and a perfect page came up.  I knew EVENTUALLY I would get this going.  Sometimes I really did not feel like messing with it, so I came back to it later on.  Thanks for all of your help.

Hi!

My Fujitsu Siemens Scaleoview T19-1's power adapter does not work properly (the screen stays black, the light next to the ON button flickers etc.). There are some WAYS to make it work, but these sollutions are not so safe, so I decided to get a new one.

It would be really HARD to get an exact same one, since it's an old model, but I wondered if it COULD be replaced with a universal notebook power adapter? For example the TRUST 16665 65W seems suitable.

What do you think?

Additional question: I have heard that that if you plug out and in these adapters every day it's reduces their lifetime. It does not SEEM very logical, but I wonder what the EXPERTS think, since I can not think of any other reason why could it broke.

Hello, I am new to this forum but very experienced in computers.
My Dell computer is stuck on the UEFI boot, it takes about an hour or something to GET it to boot.
Please email me to help me fix this!
-Brandan
P.S, I will post a PICTURE of the computer in UEFI boot with my tablet.1) How long does it take to boot to safe mode?
2) What is new or different since the last time everything worked properly (ie, new HW, new sw, virus, error, etc)?
3) We don't use email for support. The PRIMARY idea of forums is for everyone to see, help and learn.1) First, I know I am a expert, but F8 seems to not work.
2) It was fixed by Dell Support the last time I used it.
3) But if they want to.1) F8 should certainly work - what OS are you using
2) Please expand - why did Dell support fix it (what was wrong)? And did this start immediately after they fixed it?
3) NO EMAIL SUPPORT. 1) Windows 8.1
2) Hard drive got fried.
3) ... You don't have to yell via forum.dellBrandan,
This is a volunteer forum and many would like to help you.
Please include as much relevant history about this computer.
You bought this from  Dell? When? What model?
Is this a laptop?
On new laptops the UEFI boot block is method used to reduce unauthorized chkangfes to a computer, especially laptops which can be easily transported. Any attempt to alter the hardware or  system software is blocked by the UEFI boot. Did dell not explain this to you?
WITHOUT the details, forum members just have to guess ate your problem. Most Windows users never have issues with the UEFI boot protection.
For general information about Unified Extensible Firmware Interface:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unified_Extensible_Firmware_Interface
Quote

Intel developed the original EFI (Extensible Firmware Interface) specification. Some of the EFI's practices and data formats mirror those from Microsoft Windows.[5][6] In 2005, UEFI deprecated EFI 1.10 (the final release of EFI). The Unified EFI Forum manages the UEFI specification.

The 64-bit versions of Microsoft Windows Vista[32] and later, 32-bit versions of Windows 8, and the Itanium versions of Windows XP and Server 2003 can boot from disks with a partition size larger than 2 TB.

I am GETTING an error code Error 0x0000005F on my machine.
Now it WONT GO to welcome screen.
Any HELP is appreciated.what is the EXACT message it shown?

So my wifes computer that was running on this OCZ Agility SSD had a Windows 7 crash with data corruption causing Windows 7 to fail to BOOT. Removed this SSD and moved her over to the HDD that was in the system and so she is back up and running on Windows 7, but this SSD when checking into corruption with some tools left me sort of confused.

The confusion is that the tools I am testing this SSD with state 85% Healthy .... And a trial of SSD-Life states that the Drive is Excellent ... how is 85% of 100% excellent for health?

As well as if only 85% is healthy then.... shouldnt I be missing 15% of my drives capacity as for shouldnt it have shrunk with dead cells etc or is the reserved space allocated for lost cells great enough capacity to have relocated reserved cells to replace the dead ones without a capacity loss?

I ended up installing this SSD into my recent build where i wanted to make a power efficient workstation for surfing and flash games vs running my better faster power hungry systems. It seems to be behaving after a clean install of Windows XP Home SP3 to it, that is why the used capacity is so little in the one screenshot is because its XP Home SP3.

In the one screenshot I pointed out some problems detected with the drive using SSD-Life. Using Crystaldiskinfo it had issues reading the SSD and not sure if this is because the OS I am running is XP, but Crystaldiskinfo reported the 85% health initially with EVERYTHING greyed out and thats when I looked for a different tool to assess the SSD's health.

Just added the crystal disk screenshot as I was typing this since pictures are better than words...

I know that this SSD probably shouldnt be trusted for anything critical for data and use, but the 85% just to me makes no sense and so maybe someone can explain why 85% is healthy and what 15% is missing etc or if this is some sort of health score instead of capacity etc.



[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Statistics indicate any HDD is more likely to fail than  a SSD. But there are notable exceptions. A 15% failure is way out of bounds.
It has been said that the failure rate of a SDD is less that half that of a HDD over a period of a year. Failure means any failure that can not be corrected without data loss. The data lost might only be .01 % of the total, but it counts as a fatal failure.
Here is one of many articles that supports this idea.
hSSD Annual Failure Rates Around 1.5%, HDDs About 5%]ttp://hardware-beta.slashdot.org/story/13/09/12/2228217/ssd-annual-failure-rates-around-15-hdds-about-5]SSD Annual Failure Rates Around 1.5%, HDDs About 5%
A reader replied:
Quote

"So an SSDs not only outperforms, but on average outlast spinning disk."
This is completely unsubstantiated by the evidence provided

Should I throw it away?

It has been stored in the attic for 12 months, I SWITCHED it on and it powered up, it was a bit noisy, then it switched off, now it won't switch back on. I wonder if the motherboard has shorted out or something, does it sound familiar to anyone? I'd be grateful for any adviceReplace the CMOS battery...part # CR 2032...available anywhere.....

And borrow a known good PSU and swap it in there to test...Noisy could be either a failed fan bearing, or fan that is grinding against something like wires inside that are mismanaged or a heatsink clogged with dust bunnies.

In one system a while back the customer told me that it was making a grinding noise like someone turned on an electric grinder inside of it and then it would shut down after like 10 seconds. When i opened it up I found that the 4 LOCKS for the socket 775 heatsink were snapped off the motherboard and the  CPU fan and heatsink were resting fan blade down in the case so when it was turned on the plastic blades were grinding the bottom metal and the heatsink was dancing hanging from its power connection on the motherboard.

Perform a visual inspection inside to make sure all looks good, NOTHING in the path or conflicting of fan blades and heatsinks attached properly vs resting face down on bottom of computer case.  The poster did not give the model # of the HP Pavilion desktop.
He might get a working version with new OS for about $120 on EBAY. Some of the refurbish companies offer one year warranty.

The idea is to have a source of spare parts to keep the refurbish unit going.
And provide a way to diagnose the old unit.

Could be a fun project. 

I have an Epson XP-310 wireless printer and I am having problems printing wirelessly from my desktop PC.  I also have Mac laptop that is able to wirelessly print to this same printer without issue.

This issue seems to occur whenever the house loses power. In the past, I had to completely uninstall the printer & software and do a fresh reinstall in order for my computer to print wirelessly again.

The main issue is that whenever I print a page, it just sits there in the queue until eventually it says, “error printing.” When I troubleshoot the printer, it corrects itself by clearing the queued documents and resetting the spool, but when I try to print again and same thing happens every time.
Some things that I’ve TRIED:
-   Uninstalled and reinstalled the printer 4 times
-   Stopped and started the printer spool
-   Cleared out old spooled documents from the “Windows 32/Printer” folder
-   Restarted both the computer and printer several times

Since this only happens during a power failure, it must have something to do with my router restarting itself. But the fact that my mac can print wirelessly without problem has me baffled. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated!

My Desktop computer specs:
Homebuilt PC, Windows 7, all updates installed, 8gb of RAM, NVIDIA GFORCE 570 video card, no SOUND card, Malwarebytes and Microsoft Essential Security installed.
**UPDATE**

Problem is solved. I simply had to manually unplug and re-plug the router and cable modem from its power source and the printer "magically" worked wirelessly once again. I hope that this helps someone else with the same problem!  Thanks for sharing.

Hello everyone,

We have an old eMachine tower from the late 90's that I would like to update for our children to use for homework and just to stay away from mine, is it worth it being 20 years old? Quote from: pandapo on February 04, 2015, 01:00:04 PM

Hello everyone,

We have an old e Machine tower from the late 90's that I would like to update for our children to use for homework and just to stay away from mine, is it worth it being 20 years old?

The Kindle HDX 8.9 does printing using an Epson driver that is downloaded. First, printing works. However, it is a double entry of the printer in the process of printing that I'm confused about. The process is: from an email, select print. At that time the screen changes to one that shows two identical ENTRIES for the WF-2540 printer I have on my network (wirelessly attached).

QUESTION 1) Why two identical entries?

I though maybe it was related to the installation of the printer. On my Windows 7 systems there are three definitions under Devices & Printers.:
a) EPSON WF-2540 Series
b) EPSON WF-2540 Series(FAX) (Copy 2)
c) WF-2540 Series(Network) (Copy 1)   *** DEFAULT

QUESTION 2) Are these THREE entries normal? Or should there be less? Can you explain each's use?

Thanks.It's normal...Win defines printers according to functions...in other words it'll SEE the same unit seperately as a fax machine ...etc...Hacker...your response clearly explains the issue. Amazon (kindle) on the other hand can not explain the double entry (to select a printer) on their side. Either works though, so no problemo. I APPRECIATE the answer.If it's not broke... don't fix it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:If_it_ain%27t_broke,_don%27t_fix_it

When I turned on my laptop this morning the screen said "scanning and REPAIRING drive (C:) 0% COMPLETE" what is this and what caused it? I have had a problem for the past month or 2 where I have heard something rattling around inside my fan and I am unsure if this has caused the c drive to be messed up.       

I'm scared that whatever this is MIGHT delete some of my files or something

Any ideas on why this showed up? And what is this drive for will it affect any of my files? Etc.

Please help asap

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Here try this Go to regedit, navigate to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Session Manager and Change the BootExecute STRING to "autocheck autochk /K:C *" which may help you.1) Ignore the above post

2) Right-click on a command prompt icon and open as administrator. In the command prompt window type: chkdsk /r  (then press ENTER). You'll be told the disk is in use and asked if you want to run checkdisk on the next boot. Say yes, EXIT the command prompt window, and reboot.

Hey!!! I have been googling for nearly an hour about a book to know about the every details of computer (pc)  hardware ,how it works such as cpu ram usb processor etc. etc.
But there I cannot find any book to include all the details. I want a book which would include all the details from beginner to PRO about computer hardware and its mechanism.
Can you suggest any such book or WEBSITE???
Please help...That's because computers are so complicated you cannot fit all the informarion about them into one book.  You need to pick an area and focus on that.As said there are many areas in compter which goes deeper if you want know about hardware,  so can TRY with particular topic and can do research that could help you to understand better. There is a computer REPAIR book you can get, it is from amazon. Since computers technology change's so fast the book would be obsolete quickly. The book mostly covers hardware, may just be what you are looking for. I myself was thinking of buying it. If anyone has INFO on the book, please share.

http://www.amazon.com/Upgrading-Repairing-21st-Scott-Mueller/dp/0789750007/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1423880902&sr=8-1&keywords=computer+repair

Quote from: camerongray on February 07, 2015, 06:25:57 AM

That's because computers are so complicated you cannot fit all the informarion about them into one book.  You need to pick an area and focus on that.

Hello my computer I built works totally fine but when i play Far Cry 3 or Battlefield 4 it always freezes during game play. Usually 30-50 minutes of game play. Everything runs on high PERFECTLY ! 70-110 fps and nothing is overheating just something is GOING wrong and it freezes FORCING me to hard reset. I do still have audio going tho. I have skype going and i could still hear them talking and they could still hear me. This is very very frustrating. Please help me Below is what i got a benchmark. I have no idea if it will help or not but i completed this benchmark just fine but as soon as i turned V-Sync on the SCREEN showed a lot of lines and froze. Thank You!

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]

I have a Compaq SR1610NX with the following:
Motherboard Name: MS-7184
AMD Sempron 3200+ 1.8 GHz:256MB PC3200 RAM
Integrated graphics and sound

The problem I am having is when powered on there is no signal to the monitor and the CPU ffan constantly pulsates on and off. I have checked the power supply, HDD, and DVD drive. Can anyone give me any ideas of what else to check or any possible solutions to my problem? Any help WOULD be deeply appreciated!
Thanks for your time and efforts!
Bowman65
What happened before this started?Calum,
According to the owner it started getting really loud and she turned it off.Clean heatsinks. ^^what Data said
While you're at it get the dust off the blades of the fan. When dust builds up it throws the balance off. Sounds like a heat issue because the CPU fan probably has a built in sensor that REGULATES the RPMs with respect to the CPU temp. I'd also try  to see if you have another 3-pin plug on the mobo....maybe labled "CPU-fan 2" and try the fan in that ONE. Quote from: bowman65 on May 04, 2007, 11:14:02 AM

I have checked the power supply, HDD, and DVD drive.

Hello, I just got a newer computer than the one I'm  currently using. I ENCOUNTERED a problem when booting. My OLD computer is a:

Anaheim 2 MOBO
Intel Celeron 600 Mhz
15 Gb Seagate HDD
4 Gb Western Digital HDD
256 Mb Ram
Windows XP Professional

and my newer computer is

Dell Precision 330
Intel Pentium 4   1.5Ghz
384 Mb Ram
----No HDD-------
AGP graphics card (model UNKNOWN)

I decided to use my newer computer and just use my hard drive from my other computer on this computer. I set the BIOS to auto and at first everything worked well somewhat. As soon as it got to the windows xp LOADING screen I get a blue screen saying that windows has shut down to prevent damage to my computer and to check hardware like HDDs. I took out all the PCI CARDS but I can's seem to get around it. I dont understand if this can be fixed. or what can I do to fix it. I put the hard drive back on my old computer and it works just fine but it doesnt work on my new one any ideas? suggestions?

Anything is appreciated Thx. So did you attempt to reload Windows or just put a drive loaded with completely different hardware in the newer machine and expect it to run?You're going to have to reinstall Windows XP on the new machine.Ok I tried re installing windows but there was a nother problem. The computer won't boot to Cd drive even if set on the BIOS. I tried a startup disk i made on my old computer and I can get to DOS prompt. After that it doesn't detect my Cd Drive and I cant get into it to install windows. Im stuck What do I do now?You need a specific Windows XP boot-able disk. Find them on Microsoft.com

This is a really strange problem.  Windows 2000 has PROBLEMS accessing my 3 1/2" floppy drive.  If I try to access a drive through Explorer or a DOS box, Windows can't read the disk.  At first I thought it was a bad drive so I removed it and tested it in another system and FOUND it worked just fine.  I then re-installed it in the system in question and found that I can BOOT to the floppy drive just fine.  I then rebooted the system with a non-bootable disk in the drive.  When I received the "Non-system disk.  Remove and press any key..." prompt, I ejected the disk, let Windows START and immediately put the disk back in the drive.  Since there is now a disk in the drive as Windows is starting up, it allows access to the disk from Explorer and a DOS box.  It seems that Windows will only allow access to a floppy if it's in the drive when Windows starts up.  Installing a disk in the drive after Windows is up and running doesn't allow access.

Any ideas?I would try this.  Remove the floppy disk.  Open Device Manager and uninstall the floppy drive.  Then, restart the computer.  Does Windows recognize new hardware and install it?Thanks for the help.  It worked perfectly.  Windows found the drive and re-installed the driver without any user intervention.

Strange thing is, while testing previously (before posting here), I uninstalled the drive from Device Manager but instead of rebooting, I clicked "Scan for hardware changes" from the context MENU.  At that point, Windows found the drive and re-installed the driver but it still wouldn't work.

Thanks again for the help.Glad to hear it's working.  And, by the way, welcome to the forum.  Come back anytime.

Hi,

I just plugged my network cable into the back of my computer.

As soon as I did this the MOUSE stopped working so I restarted my PC in the hope that it would work when it rebooted. However it now will turn on but I have no visual on my monitor at all. I've tried using a different monitor but still nothing but blackness.

I'm unsure as to whether it has booted in safe mode or if it is working NORMAL other than this as I cannot see anything.

Any help would be great.Disconnect everything unneccessary except the keyboard and mouse and re-boot.

Also check the monitor connection to make sure it's not loose (with the power off)Problem solved.

The gfx CARD has shorted SOMEHOW. After some cleaning works fine. Odd.It actually may have been partially un-seated...glad you're fixed up.

Hello all.
Recently the LCD monitor on the desktop PC has been having a few problems.
It started turning off for no reason, I discovered this was due to a loose power cord and just plugged it back in firmly.
Today, it happened again and I did the same.
However, it made a WEIRD crackling sound and wouldn't stay on.
If I hold the cord in, it continues to make the noise and the power indicator LED goes on and off randomly.
It MAKES no difference if the monitor is on or off, it makes the noise if I move the cord.
I can guess this is electrical, but is there a way to know if the problem is with the cord or the monitor?
And is it fixable?
I don't fancy delivering the news that we need a new £100+ monitor.
The monitor is around 18 months old, AG Neovo F-17.
Thanks in advance for any help anyone can provide.
Calum.Sounds to me like something inside (something electrical) is defective 

I don't think it's the cord as there is nothing in it to 'crackle'.  Connector, capacitor, resistor or something?  Bummer 

Alan <>< So you reckon the monitor is BUST?
*censored*.
Guess there's nothing I can do, monitors generally aren't user serviceable.
Thanks for your help.Here's an update.
It was the F-417, not F-17.
And the monitor now works for no APPARENT reason.
I think I'll try and see what I can get from the warranty THOUGH, I don't want it to blow up or something.

Hello all! This is my first TIME posting on this forum. My question may be a bone-head no brainer for you all, but it is stumping me. I have an older Audigy Gamer that I swapped into my PC to replace another Audigy card I had in there. The REASON for the swap was because I was not getting surround sound out of my speakers. Only my FRONT speakers and subwoofer were working. I tried everything I could, but to no avail. I swapped the original card out and plugged the Gamer in, and I still have the same problem. I have fiddled around, and I know that all the cords and speakers work, so it doesn't seem LIKE it would be a hardware problem. I have gone into the control panel under sound properties and enabled 5.1 surround. I can hear that static-sound coming from the rear and center channels, but no sound. Is it SOMETHING as simple as a driver, or is there something more difficult. Thank you ahead of time for your considerate responses.If this is with music files, check that whatever media player you are using supports surround sound, and that it is enabled.
Also check that the files support 5.1 sound, rather than being only stereo sound.

If in games, check that surround sound is enabled there.

Update the drivers too, it may be an old driver causing this problem.
Did it ever work?
If so, what changed?

If none of that helps, post back with when it happens and what media players/versions you are using, or what games, or anything that it happens in.
Also, check that the cards themselves support surround sound, and refer to the manuals to check the speakers are plugged in correctly.

I have the above with the FOLLOWING problem.  The external HDD (g and h drives) works fine when plugged into the computer, but when adding a USB (generic 4 port) hub the external disk just SITS and beeps and flashes its lights    I am trying to put a large program ONTO the external HDD and NEED at least two ports (computer has one- need one for the HDD and one for the memory stick with the program).  It seems there is a conflict and I cannot get both to talk.  Can anyone help please.Do these external drives have their own power supply? If not, then there probably is not enough power from the laptop port.

That laptop only has 1.1 ports I am sure. Does the other equipment require USB 2? Did this ever work correctly or is this new equipment?The external drive uses laptop power, and works perfectly without the hub installed.  The USB hub is new equipment.  After installing the hub the HDD becomes inoperative when plugged into the hub ports - simply pulling the usb out and putting the HDD plug back in makes the drives operate normally.  The computer probably does have 1.1 ports but the documentation with the new hub said it is OK for both 1.1 and 2.0 ports and equipment.  The HDD has been operating normally for a year now as described previously.  Any ideas welcomed.

RustyPossibly a defective hub    Can you try it on another computer?

Alan <><  Forgot to mention in my earlier posts.  I have a memory stick which works well with the usb hub installed.  There appears to be a conflict between the HDD and the hub and my pathetic knowledge of finding the problem is obvious.  Guess my next move is to try it in another computer and eliminate one more possible CAUSE as suggested in the last post.
Thanks for assistance

RustyTry using a hub with its own power supply. The USB port is limited to 500mw and is likely not enough power for both devices. If not externally powered the hub itself will use a very small amount of power, thus reducing the total power available to other devices connected to it. Your flash drive requires little power but the external drive probably requires the full 500mw.

Please help somebody!!!!  I have bought an acer 5100 (5102wlmi) in January and the problem is that I have three USB ports, one is USB 1.1 which is working fine however the other two are USB 2.0 and are not working at all, I read somewhere else that I should try uninstalling all of the universal serial bus's from the device manager option however this did not work, XP does actually pick up that there is new HARDWARE and re-installs all three USB ports, but the same two do not pick up anything i.e. when I connect a USB stick, printer, anything then the computer just won't even recognize it is even there, however I recently installed another USB stick today, maybe that was the problem but on the port that is working (the 1.1), the USB stick has no problems. I have read I other places where people are saying to do stuff to the motherboard, but I do not understand all of that technical stuff, and I do not wish to send my laptop for repairs to acer, because god knows how long it'll take before I get it BACK, I wouldn't even be bothered because I have a USB hub anyway but because the ones that are not working are the USB 2.0's and I have a few other devices which only work on these ports, I am sure there MUST be a much simpler way, I am extremely grateful for any suggestions, thank youHow about turning off the caps lock key. and use a paragraph or two to make it easier to read. Perhaps someone will respond to that.Laptops are not designed for user-friendly repairs...if NEITHER of the 2.0 ports are working i'm afraid this is indeed a shop issue...
Course you might want to check the settings in the BIOS. If this is unfamiliar territory then have a knowledgeable friend walk you THRU it...it's no place to fool around in.

( Note to GX: i still see no paragraphs but thank goodness i wasn't here for the capslock ) Quote from: GX1_Man on May 04, 2007, 04:16:58 PM

How about turning off the caps lock key. and use a paragraph or two to make it easier to read. Perhaps someone will respond to that.

I, like an idiot, clicked 'disable" to the Nvidia GEForce FX 5200 video card because I thought it was overheating my computer. Little did I know, that when my husband installed it, he had disabled the integrated video card on my computer! Now, I have nothing on the monitor. I can enter bios, boot menu and safe mode screen (will not load in safe mode at all, just shows lines and lines of code) but I can't get anything on my monitor.
How in the world do I reinstall the drivers or re-enable the video card to make my computer work again?!?!?Did he disable the onboard video within Windows or from the BIOS?
You may be able to re-enable it from the BIOS - you're getting video from somewhere or you wouldn't be able to see it (you can see it, right?  That's what I understand from your post anyway)
When you say it won't load in safe mode and shows lines and lines of code, what is actually displayed?
Have you tried leaving it for a while?I'm sure he disabled it from windows.
When I go into bios, there is only the option to change video from VGA to PSI (i think it said psi)
I've tried booting in VGA mode- nothing
Took out the battery - nothing
tried booting from last successful boot - nothing
tried safe mode- just lines of text listing drivers
I've removed the Nvidia card and tried plugging the monitor into the regular monitor slot- nothing.

When I turn the computer on, I get a huge E (emachines) on the screen with "intel celeron d" in the bottom left corner and "F10 for boot, F2 for bios" in the bottom right corner.
It will then show "Microsoft XP" with a loading bar under it. Then nothing.

My comp is a E-machines T3958, the motherboard is Sea----something?

how in the *censored* can I tell my machine to enable the integrated video card without having a monitor??? I'm freaking out here!!
For safe mode, after the lines of code stop, what do you do?How long did you leave your CMOS battery out with the
power plug removed?

Try letting it sit about 30 minutes.

Now, re-install the CMOS battery and plug your power
back in,then boot the computer.

You could just have a bad CMOS battery and need to
get a new one.Were you plugged into the onboard video after you chose AGP as primary display in the BIOS?After the lines of code stop- I wait and nothing happens. Then I turn the computer off and try again.

I haven't taken the battery out for more than 10 minutes. I'll try that. Also, I just put a new battery in to make sure that wasn't the problem.

I'm going to try working on it again. Any more SUGGESTIONS? Quote from: GX1_Man on May 06, 2007, 06:12:44 AM

Were you plugged into the onboard video after you chose AGP as primary display in the BIOS?

heeey.... what do i do with my information if my hard drive is about to die and it's the only one i have left?(because all the others died) i use good hard drives, usually corsair (my fave ) but any SATA one i get dies within a year and GIVES me NO warning whatsoever. it sounds like a lawnmower for 5 seconds then clicks then sounds like a plane for about 3 seconds then i get BSOD... the IDE drives i get give me maybe 10 minutes warning when they wanna die but still die after about a year. now i have nothing and a lack of money for a hard drive  why does this keep happening? the PSU isn't the PROBLEM either so i just don't know...

thanx people Is this a continuing problem?  It sounds like it from your post. 

Do you buy from the same vendor each time / tried replacing the PSU / returned the drive as it may be under warranty / have a friend you could take the failing hard drive to and burn your stuff from there?

Alan <><

I was not aware that Corsair made hard drives...they make USB flash drives but hard drives ? ? ? Quote from: reaper_tbs on May 03, 2007, 07:45:35 AM

... the IDE drives i get give me maybe 10 minutes warning when they wanna die but still die after about a year. now i have nothing and a lack of money for a hard drive  why does this keep happening? the PSU isn't the problem either so i just don't know...

Whether Corsair does or doesn't make HDD's i wouldn't be purchasing any more of them.

On a desktop computer, the box THING where the motherboard and hard drives etc. are stored is it called a box? a case? tell me what you CALL it!


Do you mean where the cd drive is, the on/off BUTTON and where everything in stored inside?

I am pretty sure its called, The Computer Case....YEAH, that's what i mean. i think its the case too. i have heard of people calling it the box aswell. ThanksYou can call it anything you like, but not a CPU, at least not when Raptor's around.
I call it a tower, PC or computer, although people do say "my test box" or "my Linux box" or rig.I like to call it The Thing

actually no...If you go to any online seller or RETAIL store, you'll most likely see case as the name used for that component.  Any other terminology is basically just conversational lingo.
Thanks guys.

Nahhh , I don't think you      wnat to

I purchased a used Gateway SOLO 1.6 Model 600YGR Laptop Computer Notebook. It has 512 RAM. 20 Gig Hd and 1.6 GHz CPU. As I ATTEMPT to install Windows XP Pro with a known good DISK, the files load, and it gets to the point where I accept the TOS and then freezes. Nothing entered on the keyboard at that point works. I have tried using a different hard drive with the same results. If I hit the pause key and then the enter key prior to reaching the TOS I can sometimes get to the point where it is loading files. However the furthest I have succeeded in getting is 9% of the files loaded before it again froze.  I have tried removing the ram chips one at a time (there ar two 256 chips) and putting them one at a time in opposite slots. No change whether they are both installed or just one. Not sure where to go from here or what further to try. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave
First thing is to test the RAM and the hard drive. www.memtest86.com for a free download for the RAM, and the hard drive maker's site for free diagnostics you can download.

By a "known good disk" does that mean a real Windows CD that says Microsoft all over it?Yes it is a genuine Windows disk that I have used before and again SINCE to make sure there was no problem with it.

Hey guys i recently bought a whole bunch of new parts of my choice and built a new comp. Just wondering if you guys can tell me what else would be good and if I've made a bad decision or two.

AMD Athlon 3800+ Dual Core CPU
Abit Fatal1ty Motherboard
1GB DDR2 800 Ram
80GB SATA Drive and 250GB ATA
XFX DDR3 6800XT 256mb Extreme Vid Card SLi Ready
Thermaltake Soprano CASE in Black
Upgraded PSU to 550watt Codegen

I'm thinking I maybe get another gig of ram....and maybe another vid card and SLi it up.

Thoughts?What OS? I am pretty sure 1GB RAM is good enough 
It really depends what you are thinking of doing with your computer. Are you going to play games and 3d modelling or just work related like surfing the internet and using MS Word.Oh sorry XP Pro SP2.

Well I've been playing a few games. I'll also be hooking up my TV to the vid card to watch movies and what not. I basically want a quick reliable computer that will last me awhile.

And yes I will buy a GENUINE windows cd soon. Quote from: kenny87 on May 04, 2007, 09:01:18 AM

Hey guys i recently bought a whole bunch of new parts of my choice and built a new comp. Just wondering if you guys can tell me what else would be good and if I've made a bad decision or two.

AMD Athlon 3800+ Dual Core CPU
Abit Fatal1ty Motherboard
1GB DDR2 800 Ram
80GB SATA Drive and 250GB ATA
XFX DDR3 6800XT 256mb Extreme Vid Card SLi Ready
Thermaltake Soprano Case in Black
Upgraded PSU to 550watt Codegen

I'm thinking I maybe get another gig of ram....and maybe another vid card and SLi it up.


He's gonna play games ie  (SLI)   why not get another 80 gig sata 2# together in  raid o      why the  ata drive ?
if hardcore gaming get the  extra gig     ....  looks nice  good  job   

A better video card would be nice.

well i installed my motherboard from my old computer to my current computer. the reason i did that was because it was a much more better motherboard and had more slots for ram and a pci-e slot. well i succesfully pulled it out of my old computer and installed it on my current computer. i was suprized windows still WORKED. it booted up fine and i installed all the new drivers for all the COMPONENTS(even the audio driver). and it SAYS all the components are working fine. but i get no sound out of my computer. when the motherboard was in my old computer the sound was fine. i went in the volume settings everything is unmuted i tried 3 diffrent headsets, i tried all the slots. i cannot seem to get the sound working. i really need sound on my computer. everything ELSE works perfect. my motherboard has onboard sound to. i need help. i play competitive gaming online!ahh i fixed it,  i just had one of the case wires were loose from the motherboard. lolSometimes we are just that good....

I've checked internally and the drives are connected, but the PC isn't reading them. They are receiving power because the light flash when I put a disc in. But as far as reading the CD or burning something to one, it gives me an error message saying "No CD R/RW Drive found." I have a CD R/RW and a DVD R/RW drive and neither one appears on my computer. It's an eMachines, C6537. I checked the eMachines site for drivers and came up empty handed.

Any ideas? Am I really that dumb and I don't know how to work my PC?! What happened prior to this? Are either of these drives new? How are they jumpered and how are they cable to the IDE controller?The drives came stock with the PC and haven't been disconnected/uninstalled SINCE then.

The PC DETECTS that the drives are there, and I attempted to uninstall-reinstalll them, but it still gives me the same error message. Windows checked for driver updates and it says "The current drivers are the best suited for my machine" but the error message says "The drivers might be missing or CORRUPTED." I'll POST a screen shot...Delete all of the drives in Device MANAGER and reboot. What happens now?Here's the device manager and an update wizard...









 i'll try a reboot after deleting.

One more thing, lol, sorry.

I've had suspicions, I've been using an old HDD from one of my older PCs.. and honestly, I dont know if it has an OS on it or not... could that be the problem? Though; even if I don't initiate startup, it will still shut down.

Sorry for all the posts, Im just really stressed 

One more thing, lol, sorry.

I've had suspicions, I've been using an old HDD from one of my older PCs.. and honestly, I dont know if it has an OS on it or not... could that be the problem? Though; even if I don't initiate startup, it will still shut down.

Sorry for all the posts, Im just really stressed 

I just recently purchased a LG 32 INCH flatron (used) the specs for the monitor are on this site http://www.directdial.com/M3201C-BA.html

My question is I wan't to hook up my computer, as WELL as my xbox 360 to it. I have no idea how to do it though. As well the monitor does not have a tv tuner I am wondering if there is any way as well to put television cable onto it. Please respond asap. Thank you.You will need a video card that supports the LCD hookup to the monitor....

Some research will probably need to be done.I have hooked up my monitor to it using VGA in. The only way I think possible to have cable hooked up to it considering there is no tv tuner is I would need a tv tuner box or card on my computer. I just DONT WANT the hassle of switching wires all the time. I still have no idea how to hook the xbox 360 onto the monitor besides using VGA which I think is the only way where I would have to SWITCH from pc to xbox using VGA. Quote

Some research will probably need to be done.

Greetings,
I'll try to post as much info as possible and thanks for any help anyone can give me.  I tried searching but, this is sort of a baffling problem (to me at least)

Problem: While playing an online game (Battlefield 2) other night, my computer suddenly crashed to the 'blue screen of death' where it informed me of the physical memory dump and said I should restart the comp.  So I restarted.  That went fine except I was informed that windows detected "new hardware" and it started searching for a driver for "mass storage device".  Windows was unable to find a driver so I canceled and checked my device manager to see what hardware windows was referring to.
What I found in my hardware/device list was (between my Network card and Processors) a tree for "Other Devices" and it had the yellow question mark icon.  When I expanded the tree, it gave me five devices, all with a yellow question mark icon
1) Mass Storage Controller (Location: PCI Slot 10 (PCI bus 1, device 0, function 0)
2) Other PCI Bridge Device (Location: PCI bus 0, device 19, function 0)
3) PCI Memory Controller (Location: PCI bus 0, device 9, function 0)
4) SM Bus Controller (Location: PCI bus 0, device 10, function 1)
5) Unknown Device (Location: on PCI bus)

I checked the properties of each separately. Each showed that it had no driver and was not taking up any resources because it had a problem.  I attempted to update the drivers but, it could not find them for any of the devices.  I don't often toy around with my device manager list but I have enough that I don't recognize these hardware items and am COMPLETELY lost as how to PROCEED as I cant really seem to identify what they are. 
Anyhow, not knowing what to do I returned to game playing.  It loaded fine and I was able to join and play.  But at the conclusion of each round, as the next round BEGAN to load, I was kicked off and it gave me a non-specific "Network Error/Connection Lost".  I have never experienced a problem like this before.

MY computer and Operating System:

Well, it's a custom built comp, nothing special.  AMD Athalon 64 Processor 3700+, 2.2GHz and 1 Gig of ram.
I use Microsoft Windows XP Professional. I used a hard drive, and both dvd rom drives from an old comp.  My video card is a NVidia Geforce 6800 GS. My Network card is a basic D-Link Ethernet card.

Oh, I also checked my "System Information" and under the 'Components' tree, it had a branch for 'Problem Devices'.  When I expanded this, it gave me a list of the same 5 devices (or maybe they're components I'm really unsure at this point). 

Any help or info would be greatly appreciated.  I suspect it's something on the motherboard that maybe controls one or more other devices that went bad, but I'm just guessing.

Thanks.

Edit:
As FAR as I can tell, I can still load programs, access the internet, etc and I cant tell what else this problem is affecting.. if anything.

Reinstall your motherboard drivers. 

Make sure you are virus and spyware free. What are you using?Thanks for the response.

First off, I'm using Norton Anti-Virus/Internet Protection and I ran a scan which detected nothing at the time.

Second, unfortunately my drivers are all on floppy disks and I have no floppy drive.  I put the the physical components of my comp together myself, then took it to some comp repair place to get it up and running. When I got it back, EVERYTHING was installed.. no clue how they got the drivers installed since I have no floppy drive.  I guess maybe I could copy the files from the floppies to a cd on another comp maybe? Didn't think of trying that yet.

Thanks again for the response.

Edit:  Just thought to add this info as well:  I've had the comp up and running (trouble-free) for close to a year before this problem suddenly happened.You can just download to your desktop from the manufacturer's site and install from there. Quote from: lobeo on May 06, 2007, 09:16:52 PM

I'm using Norton Anti-Virus/Internet Protection and I ran a scan which detected nothing at the time.

Hi everyone...

I have got a HDD it was in 2 participations (C and D) ... i was working on my COMPUTER and the electricity got down... and my computer turned off . When i turned on the computer when i tryed to get in D: participation where was WRITEN : Do you want to formate it now ... . I restarted the computer and when i log-ed in there wasn't D: anymore.

I have very important documents there ... and a lot of WORK STUFF . If i cant get them back ... i will lose my job for sure.

PLEASE I'M BEGGING YOU HELP ME ...

PLEASEEEE
When you right click on the drive in My COmputer and choose Properties what does it show?When it was "D:"  ... it showed you know when hdd is full but : SIZE : 0KB ... you know ... but now it's not as participation anymore ...

is there anyway to get my data back ?did the size of your C drive increase?
For example, C drive was 100GB and D drive was 50GB. Is your C drive now 150GB?Carbon Dudeoxide
NO ...

It's important to get my data back safe and sure ...What did it show as the File System type on th eD Drive? DId it use to be NTFS? What is the type of the C Drive?yes it's NTFSIt is still listed as NTFS? Do you have the ability to burn to a CD or DVD? Does the C Drive have enough room for all of those files if they can be located?

Are you saying D is showing as NTFS now, or is it listed as RAW? Quote

Are you saying D is showing as NTFS now, or is it listed as RAW?

So the drive has completely disappeared? The drive's memory wasnt added to C drive?

I installed a Belkin 54G wireless card per included instructions. Computer was runnnig very slow, so I reinstalled Windows XP Home. Now I cannot get the the computer to recognize the wireless card or the modem in Device Manager. What do I do?Re-install the Belkin device DRIVERS...What is the make and model of the computer or motherboard. You should take the wireless card out, install the drivers for it and then shut down, install the wireless card and reboot.

The modem will have speciaql drivers for it as well, so we will have to identify it's make and model. If you do not know, download Everest Home and run a report. It will tell you EVERYTHING about the computer.

http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.htmlHey, Wow! The wireless card is working and getting a great signal! I tried this once before, but it did not seem to work. Thanks.

OK, I am not out of woods yet.

I still cannot connect to the Internet. I don't know what I am doing with Internet options in IE. Try running the Internet Connection Wizard. Make SURE you have virus and spyware protection loaded first. You will be infected within minutes if not.  OK. I am running the Internet Connection Wizard, but I don't know if I am choosing the correct options. I want to connect to the internet thru a common wireless router, set up a local area network and secure it with a password.Get CONNECTED before using encryption, if possible. If the router is already set, make sure you have the correct WEP or WPA information. If there are other unsecured networks around you, you might try connecting there to verify everything is working OK.The router is not already set, nor do I know how to set it.
There is an unsecured network nearby does enable connection to the Internet. However, I cannot connect to my own LAN/router.  I can connect with the other 2 PC's in the house.Well if you can connect to the other PC's you are almost there. What kind of router is it?

Did you run Connection Wizard and choose "I want to connect through a LAN"? You also have to make sure you have the same workgroup as the other machines, but a different computer name.

We can secure all of this later.Thanks, and this helps, but I continue to struggle. I keep losing my Internet connection. Probably because I am choosing the wrong options. When I click on IE it keeps trying to do a dial-up connection.

Quote from: GX1_Man on May 06, 2007, 07:05:56 PM

Did you run Connection Wizard and choose "I want to connect through a LAN"? You also have to make sure you have the same workgroup as the other machines, but a different computer name.

Hey ,I am having trouble with two printers hp 710C they are printing half pages only and stops with power light blinking Ihave to switch of the power button to eject the complete paper.  I tried DELETING the printer, replaced cable, cleaned cartridge.  Is ther anyone who can help me. Thank you.Empty printing tasks. I forgot to tell that my windows is Xp  Sp2, I did purge the print jobs but to no avail and I think there is something wrong from the side of the computer because it`s the same trouble on 2 printers. TYAre these USB printers?  Have you tried them on different USB ports?  Do they require USB 2.0?  Is that what you have?

You do have the right printer driver installed, right?XP has your needed driver for that printer on-board.
You just have to may sure that the printer is properly installed.
Click on "Driver Information and Instructions" in the link below:
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/softwareList?os=228&lc=en&cc=us&dlc=en&product=59307&lang=en#
It`s not usb printer but a paralell one and just to make sure of the cable I just bought one, I deleted the printer from my computer and installed altogher from win XP drivers that are shown when you install it.   Then I went to system to make sure that everything is working. And the resusts were...Back to square one,  printing half a page and stops with the power light blinking like it`s still printing and to have the SHEET of paper out from printer I have to switch it off.I've just had the same problem but with an hp  officejet 5600. There was a print job "stuck" in the queue and although I tried a number of ways to delete this couldn't. I uninstalled and re-installed the printer USING the disc that came with the printer and this seems to have solved the problem. Hey again, There is something wrong with printer ports my printer driver is assigned to 3 ports LPT1, LPT2, and LPT3 how can I romove all three ports and install a new driver in LPT1 and I think that is the trouble. Thanks.Are they all with a check in them / can you go into your Printers and uncheck LPT 2 & 3 / reboot & check again?

BTW - By default you have 3 LPT ports.

Alan <><

Ok i'm still looking for a NEW computer, and I was always unsure about getting a laptop, due to hard upgradability and gaming wise there not always good. But I THINK I may have found a laptop that is good in power and in gaming. Tell me what you think.
-Intel Core 2 Duo T7200-2.0Ghz 4mb Cache 667Mhz FSB
-Microsoft Home Basic
-15.4'' Screen
-2Gb Dual Channel DDR2 So-Dimm 667 MHZ 2x1024Mb
-Intel 945Pm+1Ch7(Motherboard)
-80Gb Serial ATA 1.56 Gb/s 5.400RPM 8mb Cache(HD)
-24XDVD-Rom/Cd-Rw/Burnerw/Nero Software
-Intel 7.1 HD Audio
-Intel Pro Wireless 3945 a/b/g mini-card
And the Price comes to $1,699 Without Taxes,shipping.Sounds a little steep for still having ONBOARD graphics. WHat were you planning on playing? Check the system requirements for the game(s).You should but it.It sounds like a decent computer, but like GX1_Man says, it's pretty steep. Quote

But I think I may have found a laptop that is good in power and in gaming

n boot up the new and old Seagate worked fine but the WD suddenly didnt work.. It appears there is not even any power going through it? I put it back in my old machine and nothing

Oh man.. FSP Blue Storm II 500W?

Sorry im not sure what you mean? Thanks for your quick replies, Raptor!

My wife has a Dell desktop with a dell 15" monitor.  Yesterday her monitor just went black, I shut down her computer and re started it, no result.  She is running Win XP home SP2, has a P4 1.6? processor, 512 memory (PC2100).  Next I took her monitor off and attached a Gateway 17" monitor, but same result!  Also the Gateway monitor will not shut off now, and the GREEN LIGHT blinks and there is a click comming from inside the monitor.  Next I HOOKED up my laptop to the Gateway monitor, so she could WORK on it, but ALAS, no monitor!  I thought it was just a bad video card, but now I don't have a clue, and I can't afford to fry anymore monitors.  Anyone have a clue???
Thanks,
LARRY

Looking to replace my old MB but keep as many of my existing PCI cards and other functions as possible and flexible upgrade possibilities.
Would like a MB with PCIe & AGP, IDE (Pata) & Sata, 2+ expansion PCI ports, on board Lan, Audio & Video capabilities.
I have found only one Chipset that has all the above, SIS 761GX/96SL and one MB that uses that chipset, PC Chips A31G.
Any problems/cons for that MB?
Any other chipset/MB that has the above capabilities?
I want to keep the cost down so I don't need multiple processors or expensive Ram memory.

I must also get a larger power supply, is a minimum of 450 watts large enough to allow expansions of Procesor, HD, Audio and Video?
Do I need special CONNECTORS like for PCIe peripherals?

Thanks
Are you planning on replacing the CPU as well ? ?

I find it hard to believe there would be only one board out there with those stats...

Travel to Tom's Hardware and /or Anandtech for some MBoard reviews on what your needs are in your price range.

I worked on 2 PC Chips systems this year and i personally would not give them a high recommendation.

As to the PCi/e issue yes you would need a PSU that is PCi/e compatible...

Good Luck in your search.A minimum of 400 Watts is recommended for modern systems.

As for your mainboard, if you want to know good and bad sides, read some user reviews.

There are many mainboards who have a combination of what you want. Try looking at some Asrock mainboards, I've SEEN one or two that came with AGP and PCI-E. If upgrade is the problem, PC Chips is NOT a solution.Thanks for responding.
I have also found a chipset (VIA PT880 Pro/8237R) used in ASRock 775Dual-880Pro ATX mb with both AGP 8X and PCIe X16, Pata & Sata, onboard Lan & Audio but no onboard video.
Any cons on this MB or chipset?
Thanks
Did you take the time to visit the sites i suggested ? ?

Did you consider any of the pertinent questions asked above ? ?

We still don't know whether you plan on replacing the CPU or not and that leaves the guessing game wide open at this point... Quote from: patio on April 29, 2007, 03:22:46 PM

Did you take the time to visit the sites i suggested ? ?
YUP.

Did you consider any of the pertinent questions asked above ? ?
YUP.

We still don't know whether you plan on replacing the CPU or not and that leaves the guessing game wide open at this point...

What type of budget ? ?

I am going to be taking a class online in prep for achieving my bachelors degree. I'll need it to reach the internet and will have Office on it for Word, Access and EXCEL. I won't use it for much else. I ORDERED an HP laptop last night that has Celeron M 360.  This seemed to be a good inexpensive choice and would be sufficient for my needs. Now in looking at dell site, I can get similar laptop for about the same $$ but w/Mobile AMD Sempron 3500+. Would one be better than the other? I could cancel the order. It will take a little doing so if they are close or the Celeron is better, I'll stick w/that one. Thanks so much for your help. I have done some reading on this topic but still don't know which is best!Either would be satisfactory. Older Celerons were not too great, but the newer ones are OK, especially for your needs. It will probably run cooler as well.thanks for your help. I didn't want to make a mistake. Not something I want to buy again too soon!My school suggests Pentium 4 or better. Where does the Celeron M fit into that specification? How about the AMD Sempron? Celeron-M is a mobile version of the Celeron (so lower power consumption=lonnger battery life), which is a Pentium-4 variant.so this Celeron M 360 would be what they want...Pentium 4 or better? I wish I knew more about this stuff. It's just so overwhelming!!!  What's your budget?
Is this just for Office/internet use?
Think about what screen SIZE you want too, as well as battery life.

The Celeron is a budget P4, it's not very powerful but will suffice for Office use.
The Sempron is more powerful in this case, but may not be the better choice overall.I wanted to stay no more then $500-$600. I've already ordered the one w/celeron but then was second guessing it. Saw the dell w/sempron for about the same $$. So was wondering if I should switch. The BIG thing is I don't want Vista but XP. This one has the XP. I really only need for doing a class online. Then I'll have Office on it. No music, pics, gaming etc.If the other specs are the same, the Sempron is more powerful, however you will not really notice the difference unless you do more than office work.Let me ask then about AMD Turion 64x2 Mobile. Would this be more powerful then the AMD sempron and the celeron 360? I might be able to go through Dell Business and get one w/the turion for about the same price. Thanks. Yes, that is much more powerful than either of them - probably.
Which version/model?the inspiron 1501. My son has a dell and for the most PART I like them. The girl on the phone told me they didn't really sell laptops to private citizens. But I might be able to get around it online. Only thing is it wouldn't be shipped til the 17th which I guess is ok. Maybe I'll call best buy and cancel the HP 305Any of the Turion CPUs offered is more powerful.

I bought a new computer with windows Vista and when I tried to download my printer a message pops up saying registry keys do not exist. How do I fix this?

 computer: Acer Athlon processer
                    512 MB
                    160 GB
Printer: HP PSC 1510 all-in-oneI am aware that a lot of printers and hardware are having trouble installing on Windows Vista. Try reinstalling the drivers and see if that helps.It is impossible to download a printer. Do you mean problems installing the printer software with the CD that came with it? Did you check www.hp.com and input the printer model to see if there are known issues?GX1_Man, I can't get my shoelaces to download. Quote from: Raptor on May 01, 2007, 04:51:34 PM

GX1_Man, I can't get my shoelaces to download.

Sorry I don't know all your computer terms. Thanks to those who gave advice... the rest of you are jerks. This is a site for people to get help with their computers isn't it? Or is it free critism?

Sorry I don't know all your computer terms. Thanks to those who gave advice... the rest of you are jerks. This is a site for people to get help with their computers isn't it? Or is it free critism?

This is a site for people to get help with their computers isn't it? Or is it free critism?

Or is it free critism?

By the way, you don't have to get all uppity about it. This is a FREE help site. Which means we don't get paid for it and we do this in our own time. You may become the victim of an occasional joke. I seriously doubt these jokes are harmful enough to demand that we turn into robots as you wish we would.

I downloaded a rhinocerous once....