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Hi. I`ve tried several forums with this problem but no luck so FAR. I`ve just installed an XFX GeForce 7600GT AGP graphics card purchased from Dabs. Specs are.... Core 580 Mhz and Memory 1.5 Ghz. Ntune reads Core 580 Mhz and Memory 750 Mhz, as does Riva Tuner and system details in Futuremark 3D 06. I`m using driver version 91.37. If I use version 91.47 from the disk, there`s no reading at all in Ntune. No-where have I seen the advertised memory clock SPEED of 1.5 Ghz. Is this a faulty card or do I have to make adjustments somewhere. It dosen`t seem to run much faster than my old 6600GT.  Could it be a PSU problem. Thanks.

Athlon XP 3200+
Asus A7N8X-E Deluxe
2 Gig DDR 3200
SB X-FI Extreme Gamer
400W PSU ( New) Quote from: jaycee 62 on April 25, 2007, 07:13:50 AM

No-where have I seen the advertised memory clock speed of 1.5 Ghz.

Hi. I`ve tried several forums with this problem but no luck so far. I`ve just installed an XFX GeForce 7600GT AGP graphics card purchased from Dabs. Specs are.... Core 580 Mhz and Memory 1.5 Ghz. Ntune reads Core 580 Mhz and Memory 750 Mhz, as does Riva Tuner and system details in Futuremark 3D 06. I`m using driver version 91.37. If I use version 91.47 from the disk, there`s no reading at all in Ntune. No-where have I seen the advertised memory clock speed of 1.5 Ghz. Is this a faulty card or do I have to make adjustments somewhere. It dosen`t seem to run much faster than my old 6600GT.  Could it be a PSU problem. Thanks.

Athlon XP 3200+
Asus A7N8X-E Deluxe
2 Gig DDR 3200
SB X-FI Extreme Gamer
400W PSU ( New)

Almost finished with buying all the components for my 1st build.
 This is what I have:
 i7 4790k
 gigabyte z97x gaming 3 - mobo
 noctua nd-h14
 Samsung 850pro SSD (512gb)
 corsair ax 750 psu ( 80 gold )
 crucial ballistix sport 16gb RAM (2x8gb)
 corsair 760t case
 lg internal Blu-ray burner
 internal flash card reader ( yes I still use flash cards... feel free to laugh )

 What I intend to buy:
 2 4tb HDD in Raid 1
 GPU - have no clue on GPU yet. Still educating myself. But I will run 3 monitors.
 Thinking of buying some HDD coolers or fans.
 Possibly some LED light strips..
 Possible extra fans to blow from top of corsair case in or out

 -------------------

 Now heres my ?. I have 1 extra slot left on my case. I am thinking of adding a FAN controller. Is it needed? Probally not. But I want to mod my set-up and case as much as possible.

 Tell me If I got this correct. A fan controller will only adjust the RPM of fans that have PWN? A fan that does not have PWM just runs the RPM it is? Would it be possible to mount the fan controller somewhere on my DESK. Possibly underneath a shelf that my monitor is under? My case will be mounted high on a shelf. So viewing the fan controller would be a PITS.

 These are what Im looking
NZXT Sentry-2 5.25" Touch Screen Fan Controller - Newegg.com

AeroCool Touch 2000 Controller, Panel - Newegg.com

KINGWIN FPX-002 Performance LCD Fan Controller Black - Newegg.com

NZXT AC-SEN-3-B1 Sentry 3 5.4'' Touch Screen Fan Controller - Newegg.com

 I just think it would be cool to mount this right in front of my above my monitors. Run the wires to the back and into the back of the casehttp://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811992005&cm_re=fan_controllers-_-11-992-005-_-Product

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999198&cm_re=fan_controllers-_-11-999-198-_-Product

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811991008&cm_re=fan_controllers-_-11-991-008-_-Product

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811992013&cm_re=fan_controllers-_-11-992-013-_-ProductYou can get different types of fan controller, most only adjust the voltage so will control 3-pin fans - 4-pin PWM fans are designed to be controlled via 4-pin sockets on your board and have their speed adjusted EITHER automatically through controls you may be able to adjust in the BIOS (most boards offer for example a quiet or performance MODE) or through software such as Speedfan or Asus AI Suite.
If you want to mount the controller externally you'll need some fan extension cables, some power extension cables to power the controller, and somewhere to run the cables out of your case.  In my own personal opinion I think it'll look somewhat messy, but that's up to you.
I will say I've used fan controllers in only a handful of my own builds, mainly because once I've found the right speed for the fans I would never adjust them.  I don't tend to run on the ragged edge so I don't need to, for example, turn the fans up to maximum when gaming to keep temperatures under control and then turn them down because they're too loud - I just strike a balance between noise and airflow and leave it at that.  Just a thought as you may find this is quite a lot of work for something you may not end up using.

Hope this helps somewhat.

I have a PC with a IDE 30G HD, with XP Pro. Let me call it #1. I will install a second HD, a SATA one, with 120 or 160G. I'll call it #2. Let me tell what I intend to do, so you can see if it is the right way:

1- Install #2
2- Format #2
3- Make an image of Xp+programs of #1,  over #2
4- Trought Setup, make boot VIA #2
5- Format #1, being used from now as data bank

I have an additional question: #2 will have name C:  ?

THANK youWhat about
Install #2
Remove #1
Format and install Windows on #2
Reinstall Programs
Put #1 back in, jumpered as slave
Copy Data Files from #1 to #2
Format #1

#2 will definitely be C drive and will have a nice install and NO surprises in the future.

Your way will BRING you heartache. The only reason to attempt this is if you do not have a Windows CD or the legal CD's of those programs.  I have both. The reason is to try to jump the fastidiuous re-installing of everything... Sometimes that's the greatest gift you can give your computer. What were you planning on using for imaging the drive?I have Partition Magic 8.  Have a read.

http://www.computergripes.com/PartitionMagic.html

http://www.mikeshardware.com/reports/powerquest-greedy/index.html



The new SATA drive will ship with drive utilities...use them to create a 30G partition and use their clone utility to clone the IDE to the 30G SATA partition.
Make sure you set the 30G partition as active...

Hey guys, I haven't been on in a while, but I am still looking for a new desktop. I have found the computer in the subject heading, and was curious if I could put a 7800 GT card and see if the power supply will still be good. I am playing BF 2142 and was gonna get another gig of RAM. Just want your feedback.

It has PCI-E and looks good to buy, but I think I need GX1_Man or one of the other Moderators opinions before I go buy it.please check the actual model number  this one is an

                                                    HP Workstation Model xw4400   
which is a
- Core 2 Duo E6300 1.86 GHz

motherboard graphics slots:-

    * Slot provided
    * 1 (0 free) Processor, 1 (0 free)
       PCI Express x16, 1 (1 free)
       PCI Express x16, 4 (2 free)
       Memory DIMM 240-pin,
      1 (1 free) PCI Express x1, 3 (3 free) PCI Full-length, full-height

so the card should fit

a full spec listing can be found here  http://cnet.boston.com/HP_Workstation_xw4400_Core_2_Duo_E6300_1_86_GHz/4014-3118_9-32010624.html


You are wise to be concerned about the power supply. Can you find out the wattage for it and what that video card requires? Is it some sort of proprietary in shape or size power supply?The power supply for the HP is 120 volts and I couldn't find a voltage for the card, but I am still looking. I thought to give you the voltage for the HP. Plus, I DOUBT the card is going to get even half that in voltage. Also, should I change out the fan or just get another one to keep it cool?

I also PLAN to get a sound blaster card, another gig of ram, and probably a widescreen acer monitor, just for reference to whether I should get this desktop or not.The Wattage rating of the power supply is what you need to know.  If you're in the U.S., 120 volts is standard; it does not vary. I moved to a new desktop that still has Core Duo 2, but the System Bus isn't as FAST. It is the Hewlett-Packard Pavilion Desktop with Intel® Core™2 Duo Processor E4300, I will search for the power supply, but this seems like a better buy.

Don't purchase until you find out about the power supply AND if you can add a different one when you find that one too small. Some manufacturers have proprietary sizes and/or connectors.I would think a 7600 GT PCI-E would fit fine in there, other than that I don't think I would have a problem with size because that card isn't all that big, it is XFX just so you know.

The power supply is a must though. Thanks for the help GX1 and soybean, I wasn't really sure on whether to worry about the power supply or not, but now I know. Thanks Quote

I need GX1_Man or one of the other Moderators opinions

Hi I'm hoping someone can POINT me in the right direction.
I purchased a custom built PC for my wife last year from a company I had used before, without any issues.
However this latest PC has two issues I cant determine and unfortunately the company has gone into administration!

It is a desktop PC with AMD FX8320 eight core PROCESSOR, Biostar A960D+ MB, 8GB DDR3 Ram and ATI Radeon 3000 Graphics.

The first issue is that if I run it with more than one stick of ram, it crashes into the blue screen.  I did a memtest and found one stick of ram to be faulty, so returned to the manufacturers, who replaced both ram.  I installed both ram and the same thing happened again, blue screen.  I have TAKEN one stick out, leaving just 4GB and it runs ok.

The next issue is that it buzzes through the speakers most the time paired with a subtle interference type line across the screen at the same time.

I have read forums that keep suggesting new ram, but these have been replaced.  I have also read forums saying that there could be an earth loop regarding buzzing, but no suggestion on how this would be tested and fixed.

Any help regarding these issues would be MUCH appreciated.

Many thanks in advance

Hello,

Recently my Samsung HD has a lot of problems. When I use win explorer, the problem drive (G:) takes a while to load, and it shows that I have 100% free space (although I have already used up around 87% of it). I used the HD as my external Hard Drive in an enclosure for storage.

I'm trying to recover the data in Drive G: I tried using Active Partition Recovery v5 software, however, it wasn't able to fix it. But luckily it detected all the data is still there. However, it wasn't able to fix the tables/MBR or whatever it tried to fix. Furthermore, the software took a long time to load when my problem drive is connected to my laptop.

I should have around 13% free, meaning I used up almost 87% of my 90GB. But Win XP Computer Management Panel shows that I have 100% free space.   

I ALSO tried other products as well such as R-Studio v3.6 but it shut down my Dell Laptop completely in the middle of the "scan" process.

In this, I would appreciate if anybody here could give me some advice to resolve this problem? Its kind of urgent. I don't know what's happening to my HD, I suspect that I have to use SOFTWARES that runs in DOS mode in order to repair my problem drive?

This problem might have been caused by not safely removing my Hardware most of the time.

Thanks.A hard drive is NEVER a safe place for storing the only COPY of important files.

Not correctly unplugging a USB drive is asking begging for trouble.

If you use My Computer and right click on this drive and choose Properties, what does it say about the file type?When I choose properties it shows 100% free space. And the drive is not accessible. The file system is FAT32Without a proper file allocation table you may be stuck. Sad to hear about it.  Is there any way to fix this? Maybe Norton Disk Doctor will fix it? or should I move on to File Recovery softwares to recover my lost data?If you value your data then data recovery should be the PRIORITY...each time you fire up that drive your chances for successful recovery go down.Thanks, do you know any good software to help me recover them? The problem is over 80GB. I don't have any other HD having that much free space.

If I would TAKE the risk to fix the damage FAT, what should I do to fix it w/o losing the data?

Thanks

Hey guys I'm doing an assignment and I just want to be clear in the whole microprocessor business. Can anyone verify whether 'embedded microprocessor' http://www.gsd.ece.buap.mx/DocumentosSistemasDigitales/ComputerSystemsDesign/Microprocessors/trends-inEmbedded-Microprocessor-Design.pdf is the same as 'microprocessor' http://www-micro.deis.unibo.it/~romani/Dida03/lezioni/articoloyung.pdf ? I think it depends on the perspective you take. Both are capable of handling the same inputs and outputs, but perhaps it comes down to form FACTOR being the difference? By that, I mean that embedded generally refers to Surface Mounted Technology (SMT) versus something like an Intel ZIF (Zero INSERTION Force) socket microprocessor. One is replaceable (ZIF)whereas the other is generally considered non-serviceable(SMT). This difference aside, I believe the two are (or at least can be) identical. Hope this helps. Why would your textbook make a distinction?
The two names do not  have an exclusive definition.
Embedded often means 'not visible' or not programmable by the user.
Here is a short scours about embedded devices:
http://www.tacnetsol.com/embedded-device-exploitation/
Quote

This course is designed for HACKERS, tinkerers, and hobbyists with limited experience and an interest in embedded systems analysis. The course starts with a basic introduction to electronics, using a series of hands-on lab exercises to give the student a comfortable foundation using various embedded analysis tools and techniques, including exercises in extracting and analyzing flash images from live hardware. Students will learn how to identify and extract critical data in the firmware, and perform basic vulnerability analysis on embedded code.

I think it depends on the perspective you take. Both are capable of handling the same inputs and outputs, but perhaps it comes down to form factor being the difference? By that, I mean that embedded generally refers to Surface Mounted Technology (SMT) versus something like an Intel ZIF (Zero Insertion Force) socket microprocessor. One is replaceable (ZIF)whereas the other is generally considered non-serviceable(SMT). This difference aside, I believe the two are (or at least can be) identical. Hope this helps.

Why would your textbook make a distinction?
The two names do not  have an exclusive definition.
Embedded often means 'not visible' or not programmable by the user.
Here is a short scours about embedded devices:
http://www.tacnetsol.com/embedded-device-exploitation/Embedded devices could be almost any electric device that could benefit from advanced features.
Coffee maker.
Hot Water heater.
Home entertainment.
Answering machine.
Grange door opener.
With an embedded microprocessor, such devices can have a very flexible schedule of on and off times suited to the homeowners personal habits. 

Thanks, I always thought embedded means something that is placed inside a technology

• Not the focus of the system
• Cell phone
• Calculator
• Coffee maker
• Generally non replaceable

imbedded

Imbedded

Examples from the web for imbed

    The point is, technology is ALREADY imbedded into our lives and has been for a couple of decades.
    Archaeologists found three ribs from the right side of a body imbedded in the sediment that has filled the sub.
    Until the cell phone is imbedded into my skull, it is merely a tool.

Embedded

da·tum
ˈdātəm,ˈdatəm/
noun
noun: datum; plural noun: data

    1.     a piece of information.
        an assumption or premise from which inferences may be drawn.
    2.     a fixed starting point of a scale or operation.

Hello, i'm new to use printers, i wonder if there is a way to force the printer to work only with Black ink. as i don't really need the color ink. when i try to print anything it gives me this error: An ink cartridge cannot be recognized.
its asking me to insert a color ink but i really don't have it

thanks!Sorry, you have to have the color ink in place.   
The problem with printer ink is a sore spot with a lot of people. They make money on the ink. And that is why some many third-parties are selling replacement ink cartridges that have been refilled at a fraction of the original COST.

This story is from 2006 and not much has tinged.
http://www.theamericanconsumer.org/2008/09/ink-scam/
Controlling the Price of Ink – What Can Consumers Do?
Quote

...  The study reports that inkjet printers are priced with little or no margin and, according to some authorities, well below cost in many cases.  The immediate result is to impede market entry.  MOREOVER, because these cartridges are seldom interchangeable between different printer models, there appears to be diminished price competition in the inkjet cartridge market.  The combination of the lack of price competition and barriers to entry has resulted in a concentrated market, as depicted below. The lack of competition has led to high ink PRICES and profits, according to the study.

Hi. This is my very 1ST post.

 I am building a PC right now. Well actually buying all the components, then building.
 I just bought the Intel i7 4970k Crucial Ballistix 16gb DDR3 RAM. I also got the Gigabyte Z97X Gaming 3 mobo.

 MY background and experience with PC's is minimal to none. I am replacing our home desktop PC. I could go buy 1 pre-built. But I want this challenge.

 Our PC will only be used for the basics. Email, browsing, word documents, possibly some light gaming in the future. But most storing family pics, vids etc. I might like to get into some home video editing in the future.

 Is this mobo good for my NEEDS.
 I would like to BUILD the biggest and baddest PC I can.
 The more bells and whistles it comes with but I don't have Im ok with.

 I've been reading about bottlenecking.
 Will this mobo hold me back from performance from my CPU?
 Will it limit what I can add or do to my PC in the future? That motherboard and CPU will WORK great together but there are a LOT of other important components - If you want, list everything you are thinking about here as well as your intended use of the system and we'll take a look.Thanks.
I also got Crucial Ballsitix sport.  2x8b RAM (16gb total).

MY intended use.... Don't laugh.  Promise not to laugh? Ok....  Just to replace our daily unit that is slowing down.  It will only be used to browse/purchase stuff off the net.  Youtube.  Email. Storing family photos and videos.  Possibly some gaming.  I have never gamed before because Ihave never had a system that would support it.  The biggest thing is family pics/videos.  After we had our daughter 19 mos. ago I used this computer daily for photos and videos etc...  I have no experience with photo/vide software and editing.  But I might like to dabble in some entry level stuff.  Just for personal use like making and editing family videos.  But othing Spielberg or dreamworks like material.

I have no budget.  So that is a problem.
I do not mind spending more now then spending a little more sooner then later.  Parts, speed, technology wise.
As I have been learning more and more about this project I am becoming more and more fascinated with and about computers.
I do realize that I have way overkill for what my purpose is.  But that's ok with me.  I want to be able to do more things with this new computer then I have been able to n the past.  Plus think of it as supporting the economy when buying unnecessary overkill o performance parts.


Cool.  While it is certainly overkill, that CPU would definitely come in handy for editing video.

What are you planning for a graphics card?  If you aren't gaming you don't need one but you'd want to look into one down the line if you ever do decide to run some games.

Also make sure that you get a good power supply (do not cheap out on this or use one included with a cheap case no matter how tempting it may be) and I'd also suggest considering a solid state drive (SSD) to run your operating system since this will speed up load times massively.

I'd recommend using http://pcpartpicker.com/ to put a list of all parts you are looking at together so we can see it easier.

Ok, i would really like to have two monitors setup, the one plugged into my graphics card (R9 280x) works good like it always has, the computer detects it. But the second monitor plugged into the integrated graphics on the mother board (GA-78LMT-USB3) wont work, i went into the bios and i am pretty sure i enabled the use of the onboard graphics.

P.S. I do know that they cannot be connected together and i know i cant, like play one game on both of them. But i STILL want to use it for like going on the WEB while in the MIDDLE of a game or for Steam messaging, etc.

P.S.S I am really getting frustrated with this so help would be greatly appreciated. The onboard graphics is automatically disabled when the card is installed.  Why can't you connect both monitors to your 280x?i cant cause i dont have hdmi or display port on the monitor i only have vga on the monitors (there old) and there is only one vga port on my gpu and one vga on my onboard graphics so any onther answers  There are ADAPTERS...you lose some quality but better than buying 2 NEW monitors...If i got a vga to hdmi adapter would i lose quality cause hdmi my monitors dont even get 1080p there 720/768its time for an upgrade anyways ill just get some new monitors
Go for it...

Here is what i WANT for my monitor/monitors. (im a big fan of ASUS and Benq)

Price Range: 100-150 dollars (somewhere around there).
 
2ms response time. 1ms would be nice but i dont need 1ms.

1920x1080p

21.5 to 24 Inches

Ports:

DEFINITELY NEED: HDMI, DVI

WOULD BE VERY NICE TO HAVE: Displayport

NOT NEEDED: VGA

I dont need built in speakers so dont look for a monitor with them unless its a really good deal.

A pretty nice contrast ratio, i want it to look nice but dont go overboard.

Let me know i forgot to put down any features, and thanks in advance for they replies and ideas of what monitor to choose.








I'd definitely SUGGEST getting an IPS panel, they are much better in TERMS of colour reproduction and viewing angles.Ok, ill look into the IPS panels, and one thing i forgot to mention was these monitors would be used for just GAMING.

I'm new at this. I want to do a clean start on a hard drive I came across at our local landfill site. I erased & reformatted it but it only came out as a .49 gig hard drive. I did someting WRONG. It's going to be used in a window98SE system as the primary drive. The HD is a Maxtor N256 Model 51023H2 searching says it's a 10.2 gig drive. Lots to learn here. Any help would be most appretiated. Thanks.I'd say run scandisk to see whether there are bad sectors on it.  Are you SURE the drive is not partitioned and you haven't seen all partitions?  Maybe should see How to Use the Fdisk Tool and the Format Tool to Partition or Repartition a Hard Disk. Quote from: Peema on April 28, 2007, 08:46:03 AM

I'm new at this. I want to do a clean start on a hard drive I came across at our local landfill site.

Quote from: Peema on April 28, 2007, 08:46:03 AM

I'm new at this. I want to do a clean start on a hard drive I came across at our local landfill site.

Always the basis of a dependable system. 

Quote from: Peema on April 28, 2007, 08:46:03 AM

I'm new at this. I want to do a clean start on a hard drive I came across at our local landfill site.

Always the basis of a dependable system. 

Hi - I want to buy some retractable USB 2.0 cables like the one below. However I am not sure what type of cable it is - can someone TELL me from the pics. (I think it is a 5 pin mini B cable) - I don't want to order until I am 100% sure as I don't want to order the wrong thing and its hard to tell in pics of products on the net as they are not close up.

Also can someone tell me where I can order such thing from the UK over the net. I would prefer attractive sleek looking ones like the one below not 1980's office looking type ones. I bought that one in Switzerland (hard to guess)  but don't know what its called. I don't have details of the shop anymore either so can't call them.

Thanks

[old attachment deleted by admin]USB to mini USB cable.
Try dabs.com for parts like this, they have pretty good prices.
Or search froogle.Thanks for swift reply - just to make sure its the right thing you mentioned - the ports for the cable in the photo have 5 pins. That's correct.
Mini USB B has 5 pins.Excuse me if I seem very unknowledgeable - hence me posting....I found this item on ebay but it’s called a USB A. Its called ..."USB A M to M mini USB B 5 Pin Retractable Cable" It doesn't mention USB 2.0 . Can I use this cable for USB 2.0 or is it for the older slower USB's. Logic tell me it won't make a difference as it the card that determines speed not the cable but just want to check before I buy. I need it for a hub and digital camera.

Details are here

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/USB-A-M-to-M-mini-USB-B-5-Pin-Retractable-Cable-for-MP3_W0QQitemZ160108043258QQcmdZViewItem

Thanks
Quote from the ad - "1 x USB 2.0 to 5 Pin mini B Extension Cable".
So it is USB2.0.
Rule of thumb: if it doesn't mention what VERSION, it's probably USB1.1 or lower, basically slow.
That looks fine to me for what you want, and a pretty reasonable PRICE too.Must be blind - didn't see that below the ad!

Thanks for the help.You're welcome, post back if you have any more questions or issues.

hey i got a graphics card from a friend but he had no disc and said that i could just download drivers which is not a problem but i don't even think my computer is detecting the card. i had a look in device manager but nothing there, i downloaded the driver (i think it was the correct ONE) but when it runs to install it says i do not have a compatible hardware installed. is there a way to solve this or will i need the disc? or is there a place tio download a version of the disc software to install?

it's a
PNY Verto GeForce FX 5200 Ultra
i'm running XP
if you need any more info let me knowYou should ask your friend what the name of the videocard is and then download the appropriate driver. I'm in a good mood today. There you go:

http://www.nvidia.com/object/winxp_2k_93.71.htmlok i got the card installed and the drivers but now my monitor is still plugged into the on board monitor connection. how and when do i switch over the DEFAULT graphics to the card and change my monitor connection?Just POWER down unplug the machine and switch the connection...upon re-boot the BIOS should detect an add in vid card and you should be good to go...i installed the card and the onbaord one is disabled but when i RESTART i don't get a picture on the nvidia card and have to switch back to my onboard connection to get any display.
when i do, the desktop icons and all the windows are enlarged.Let's get some details on the machine itself. Computer or motherboard make/model number, etc.its an e machines model 3230
intel pentium 4
2.8GHz
couldn't get the motherboard number

i've manged to get a display from the card now tho but its split the desktop.
right hand side is on on board and left hand side is on graphics card but if i disable the on board graphics and boot i don't get a picture from anywhere?ok i managed to get my desktop to one screen running on the graphics card but the all my applications open up on the left hand side which is off screen and to view these i have to unplug my monitor and plug back into on board graphics. how can i limit the entire desktop one screen? i've disabled the multi monitor functiion but it still splits itEither your monitor or videocard can't handle the resolution you're currently working at, try a different resolution. This could very well be why your friend gave you the card.the card worked fine he just got an upgraded one and offered me his other old.

i've changed the resolutions a few times and it still lets me go off the screen to the left. i changed the resolution using the nvidia desktop manager and not the one in display properties but would that make a diference?Why not try the monitors settings themselves after you find a resolution it seems to like...i went to device manager and i have 4 default monitors and a plug and play monitor lol *censored* have i done? Quote from: sindakit on April 29, 2007, 10:18:32 AM

i went to device manager and i have 4 default monitors and a plug and play monitor lol *censored* have i done?

Dont know if this is a hardware or software problem, so I start here....and please Moderator move it somewhere else if it's not appropriate here...

When finally changing from good OLD W2K to XP Home Edition(I know, I'm late...) I got problems with the scrolling of Website pages. Using a Logitech Cordless MouseMan Pro (very old...lol..but hey, it worked in W2K WITHOUT problems) the page(s) do not steadily scroll down but seems to kind of wave (as in : turning over the pages quickly in a book).....as if it has to remember the next click or is "late to react"......it does that both with a mouse with a wheel and with a mouse without the wheel...I have W2K still "in" and XP only on a partition, but well...any ideas? (Honestly I dont think it's a mouse problem, because it works fine in W2K....the options for the mouse do not include smooth scrolling..this OPTION is "on" in IE70 though....)

Info: using both W2K and XP with all their SP's and patches....I even use IE70.....just because I NEVER EVER had problems with IE60 regardless what other people might say about Uncle Billy's stuff....lol..this is really the first time... :-))))))))))))))))))How much RAM is in that machine? What graphics card? Did you turn off all of the XP eye candy?2048Mb RAM, Sapphire Radeon X300SE(?) in an AMD Athlon 64 3200Mhz and yes it's a student version, unattended but without all the bloody gimmicks from Uncle Billy....butwell, yes I installed the IE70....oooops?

Asus A8N-SLI, nForce4 etc etc on the sapphire CD: ATI Graphics....?Well, that weird  Maybe we still need to install mouse drivers when using IE. lolPerhaps the unattended install CD included only generic MS mouse drivers...these won't be enough for a cordless MouseMan...Good one Patio...but i imported a brand new driver for the cordless and still it didnt work...even the option in IE for smooth scrolling was "ticked" and when I reset the standard the same option stayed the same with the smooth scrollong ON...maybe i shouldnt have installed IE....lol...but Opera or Firefox...Well, it's not too late for Opera and/or Firefox.  Give one of those a try and see if you have the same problem.Used opera, same problem...lol... Just curious....... is the mouse USB or PS2?PS2Where did you find the driver for this mouse?  I'm not finding anything on Logitech's site.You have to install videocard drivers.

Windows can always find default drivers for mice that are sufficient enough to ensure smooth scrolling, but it can't always find videocard drivers and those cause the screen to break up when you scroll. raptor is right about the mousedrivers...................lol, asked my norwegian rpovider and he got me one...lol...I'm a good customer...

But the videocard driver is still the same as at installation and when I ask for a new driver, the PC said, no new drivers found....and why dont I have this problem on W2K?Probably because of XP's bloat. Try reducing hardware accelleration. QUOTE from: Peterwolfe on APRIL 27, 2007, 10:18:40 AM

raptor is right about the mousedrivers...................lol, asked my norwegian rpovider and he got me one...lol...I'm a good customer...

But the videocard driver is still the same as at installation and when I ask for a new driver, the PC said, no new drivers found....and why dont I have this problem on W2K?

Probably because of XP's bloat. Try reducing hardware accelleration.

the PROBLEM is the manufacturers directions on how to RESET the password,
they clearly say in the DIAGRAM the section of the board, in the book i got when purchasing it..
but on the real board, the switch doesnt exist.. but its identical in every other way.

is their any other way to reset it? i do have a software method but i cant get far enough into the system
ive tryed the administrator passwords for pheonix bios the ones they have built in & my personal one , i tryed running it without the battery for 10 seconds , i think their must be a VIRUS on the board itself.. i dident set a user password ,about 9 months ago it did it itself.. only difference then my administrator password worked. so  i got a prog to change the user password to blank , and it worked for a while..   .. i noticed theirs a file on the C:\ drive from astalavista that is only viewable under hex editor , and even then it wasent deleteable, even after format.. and 3 new hard drives , the hard drives would work good for a while.. but after about an hour of internet connection they would start making weird noises and start
freezing constantly .. and the file would reapear..

I also had an xbox with the rare protege harddrive on it, i had it cracked and installed into my computer to do a mod on it ,  i think it must of spread to that to because now my xbox turns on and the green symbol flashes red and it displayes a message in japanese i think.

is their any way to fix all of this?

we could help better if we had more info on the computer components manufacturer etc.

have you tried removing the battery for a few minutes, or the small jumper for a bios reset it is usually on one pair of three pins, you lift the jumper/connection and put it over the other pins
for example if it is on a+b then put the jumper over b+c this clears the cmos/bios but only sometimes the password unfortunately
 if we knew the make and model of the motherboard it would help a lot.The Phoenix bios website says that the motherboard hold charge for a few days after the battery is removed. It also says to overcome this by discharging the mortherboard. To do this it says to place a 10 ohm RESISTOR across the battery terminals after removing the battery. If you only remove the battery without also doing this then the bios probably won't reset to default vlaues.

No guarantees...I'm trying to understand this stuff myself.

See:

http://www.phoenix.com/en/Customer+Services/BIOS/BIOS+FAQ/default.htm#Q39

Good luckI love your pollJust remove the battery for ~10 and make sure the PC isn't connected to the power grid or find the jumper switch.

Unless this is a laptop, it should work just fine. A board will not get a virus...

We have a Synaps LCD Flatscreen (wide) monitor, and there is no image on the screen.

I have used GOOGLE.

If you HOLD a flash light up to the screen while it is "on", you can see the flashlight-light changing colors.

The monitor APPEARS to be flashing (in a sense) but with no light. (This flash is only visible from the colors on the screen made by the flash light)

There is no image WHATSOEVER.

I have no idea where to begin.
I don't know if the back light is out or not either. (Dont know how to check)

Thanks for any help in advanced,
Zylstra Quote

We have a Synaps LCD Flatscreen (wide) monitor, and there is no image on the screen.

I have used Google.

or WHATEVER you'd call it. Here's the problem. Last year I was forced by cox to get a new modem and router to be able to get all the bandwidth I'm paying for. The computer in my bedroom uses a wireless card and when I watch a video or stream a hockey game it's choppy and slow. even when there's nobody on the other computer. I ran a network cable when we remodeled but it doesn't work and I haven't gotten around to trouble SHOOTING it. I suspect that since it is run under the baseboard for a spell that the carpel layer cut it. I'm tempted to run a new one which raises the question, cat 5 or 6? I can get the cable from friends in the av business and have a buddy terminate when I get the money.Either 1 will suit your needs...if cost is not a factor go with CAT6.He might like to know about Slim Flat Ethernet Cable.
Flat cable with 0.06 inch thinness.
They claim it meets gigabit specs fort indoor use.

Whatever... Quote from: Geek-9pm on February 17, 2015, 11:26:50 AM

He might like to know about Slim Flat Ethernet Cable.
Flat cable with 0.06 inch thinness.
They claim it meets gigabit specs fort indoor use.

They would be full of it then...

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Hello, I have this problems that I've been trying to solve for over 2 weeks now but with no success.

My mouse clicks don't work as intended in all situations.
Examples: Clicking a tab in Opera doesn't SWITCH to it, clicking the Play in Battle.net doesn't register. 
Sometimes the mouse acts as if an altering key/button was pressed - starts scrolling the page while just moving it around (no buttons pressed). 

While these problems are quite minor, they are slowly driving me mad, mostly because I have no idea how to get rid of them.

My mouse is Trust MI-6930C, USB plugged into my USB keyboard - Genius KB-G625.

What I have tried without any change in behavior:
I plugged the mouse into a free USB in my computer.
I plugged a different USB mouse into both the computer and the keyboard.
I plugged a PS/2 mouse into the computer.
I unplugged my keyboard to see if it's sending any signals that could alter the functions.
I tried to use the Numeric keyboard as a mouse via some windows function. The result was the same.
I uninstalled both the mouse and the keyboard drivers, then plugged them back in (which resulted in the driver auto-installation).
The same THING with a restart after the uninstallation. 
Checked that the mouse works on another computer (a notebook with Ubuntu).
Also I did some windows repair stuff, which only told me everything is okay.
I didn't manage to find a

Then I went to search online for other possible causes, and found multiple sources that said it could be a chip on the motherboard that is responsible for managing the mouse/keyboard inputs, which apparently isn't worthy of trying to change/fix.

So I went and changed the motherboard, the RAMs and the CPU. Used the old graphic card and 2 hard drives. I formatted one of them and installed windows 7 on it (keeping the data on the other one). 
Then I got through the installation and found out the issue is not gone.

This left me without any further ideas.

My whole PC setup is:

Motherboard: MSI A88XM-P33 - AMD A88X
CPU: AMD Athlon X4 860
RAMs: Kingston HyperX Savage 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 2133MHz CL11
Graphic card: Sapphire HD 7750 1GB GDDR5
OS: Windows 7 Professional (Currently without licence, as I didn't find the key, but I was and will be using a student license from my university)
Keyboard::Genius Gaming KB-G265
Mouse: Trust MI-6970C
Instead of using speakers, I have a Genius HS-G550 headset plugged RIGHT into my computer.
I have a LG Flatron IPS234V-PN Monitor connected by an HDMI cable.

I will gladly provide any further information that is required, run some further diagnostics and provide logs, make a blood sacrifice, or re-check any of the things I checked.

I am thankful for any (constructive) input and any time you spend on this problem, as I am really out of ideas.

Thanks,
John.


Edit: I'm not sure to which section to put this, so feel free to move it if it doesn't belong.This will take awhile.
Some of your remarks are not credible. Example:
Quote

I tried to use the Numeric keyboard as a mouse via some windows function. The result was the same.

I have only seen this problem on my system, but basically what happens is everything freezes for a split second and then resumes. What is seen to the USER is the mouse is at one point, and then if you were in the process of moving your mouse, the mouse would jump to the other point after the freeze. So it's like jerky motion. Another symptom of this is the audio. In the same the mouse jerks, the audio will just freeze on that sound for a split second which is super annoying, and...

I am so happy with my new EVGA GT610 video card I thought I would seek another recommendation. My Sony disk drive still works fine on CD's but will not boot from or play a DVD. It appears the DVD laser is kaput. I hardly ever use it but I would like it to work. My current drive is IDE but my mobo has several unused SATA ports and my power wiring harness has the right connectors, I think. For some reason HP built this computer with a SATA HD and IDE disk drive. I see where LG has some very inexpensive disk drives that get decent reviews. What do you folks suggest? DVD drives nowadays are all pretty much the same - It's not like they used to be when there was a massive variation in terms of performance and features.  I'd just get the cheapest you can find - My main decision with DVD drives is how they look more than anything else (I prefer ones without white labelling on the front bezel).

You would also be fine to get an "OEM" or "Bare" drive which will literally just come with the drive and nothing else.  There's no real point getting a fancy retail pack as all this will give extra is a pretty box, fancy manuals and a DVD containing some burning software that you could probably find a free alternative to anyway.  All you may need extra is a SATA cable if you don't have a spare.DittoI have not noticed any drives describes as "bare" or "OEM". I'll have to look more closely. Thanks for the quick response. Sounds like I would be happy with a cheap LG? Quote from: artbuc on April 25, 2014, 04:44:37 PM

I have not noticed any drives describes as "bare" or "OEM". I'll have to look more closely. Thanks for the quick response. Sounds like I would be happy with a cheap LG?

I have a 10 year old LG dvd-rw drive that is performing as well as when it was new.

Ahhh, so nice to have a 100% working CD/DVD drive! My old desktop is now in A1 condition with new video card, new CD/DVD drive, 3GB RAM and Win 7 OS. Looking for another 7 years from this rig (with continuing help from you folks, of course).

PS TigerDirect is first class. Amazon replaced the suspect RAM with a true Crucial kit in OEM packaging at a discounted rate. Got a Crucial 2x1GB DDR2 PC2-5300 kit delivered to my door for less than $23.

I always suggest not using a vacuum because they have a tendency to suck off jumpers and also a tendency to act like a vandegraff generator and build up a high voltage charge at the end of the vacuum hose in which it can arc to a chip and destroy the motherboard or RAM etc.

Any recommendation for a decent 120GB SSD and 550W MODULAR PSU?

ThanksFor SSDs I'd look at Crucial or Samsung - Crucial in particular have some great DEALS on at the moment.

The best price-performance modular 550w unit that I can think of would be the XFX XTR - It's a very solid and reliable unit BUILT by Seasonic.

Which one is better, SATA or IDE?
I opened up our Compaq, and was quite surprised to see a SATA cable connecting to the hard drive.
Which brought this question

Is it faster, more reliable, just smaller (no broken pins) or what? Some say they're faster, others say they're better.

This is an extract from here...

"The third standard, serial ATA (SATA), potentially the fastest of them all, could transfer data as fast as 600MB/s now, but the current internal mechanisms of hard DRIVES limit it to being not much faster than standard IDE ATA drives, which can only sustain about 60MB/s in practice."

IMHO Sata has the edge over Ide due to the cables being smaller allowing better airflow in the box.

There's a heck of a lot of reading on that site..

Looking at this image:
http://sierra-cables.com/SATA/Images/SATA-Signal-Cable-1.jpg
I see that there are less pins on the SATA cable than the IDE.

Is the speed in the cable, or the controller? I'm no guru but, from the reading I have done, the speed is achieved by the transfer rate from actual disk to cache then from there to the controller but is restricted by the physical/mechanical movement of the head(s).   As you will see from the extracted quote in my first reply the transfer rates of Sata vs. Ide are reported as being very similar.

just a little bit more info along lines w/ Dusty's good stuff *
 here are specs on identical 7200.10  320 MB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache  seagate cuda's  hd's

IDE Ultra ATA100:

Average Seek Time     11ms
Average Write Time    12ms
Average Latency    4.16ms

SATA 3.0Gb/s:

Average Seek Time     8.5ms
Average Write Time    10ms
Average Latency    4.16ms

many reviews from owners state the speeds are very comparable but theoretically sata II is supposed to be faster up to 1.50 gigs -to- 3.00 gigs a second interface..(adjusting the jumper settings). Sata cables are known to pop out of the hd's  very easily if you move the case a lot but other than that you would have somewhat lower temps in your case and much better air-flow....  the looks and much cleaner view inside the case especially with all the led's flashing....is a nice plus...
Thank you for that Honvetops.   

Your figs show that the SATA is faster but who's gonna notice 2 to 2.5ms other than NASA.   I don't associate with any group to whom it would make a difference

I had thought that SATA would be much faster than UATA (I don't yet have SATA drives) but the info available on the WWW doesn't show that.

Any heavy users of hdd's like to comment further

  EXACTLY,  i just got 2 of those cuda 320 satas  and I read many, many reviews from experienced users, you'd have to be a freak to notice any difference...
i don't... Quote from: Dusty on April 26, 2007, 03:48:53 AM

...
(I don't yet have SATA drives) ...
 

Quote from: Dusty on April 26, 2007, 03:48:53 AM

...
(I don't yet have SATA drives) ...
 

Me either.

But, from reading,  I understand that there is no jumpering.  No master/slave.
Just plug 'em in, and go.

For some folks, would this fall into the "better" category, when considering?

About the ease of install:
I agree, but it will set you one heck of a good project if you break a pin on an IDE drive

I have never installed a SATA drive, so I cant say anything about how easy it is.
I have gone through enough IDE drives to get the hang of it.

Its just odd that they would say SATA is faster, since there are more pins (wires) than the SATA drive, which has, what, 12, maybe?

You know what I cant wait for:
When every computer device plugs into a universal connector. (Almost like a USB, but faster. A way where all video cards, hdd, monitor, can all be plugged in, detected via BIOS and loaded with a generic driver (or the Driver be downloaded to a ROM/RAM chip from the internet using some sort of LAN that can access the internet before the OS is even loaded.)

About the airflow:
I dont think it really makes a difference. When you think about it, the effect of air making its way around objects counters it out.
And then again, its not in an area that really needs great airflow. (HDD's do produce heat, but not enough to do all too much dammage in a PC)

I've had a number of problems with my Inspiron 15-3537.
   Firstly just a month or two after I got it, the battery wouldn't charge. If it was plugged in, then the charge would stabilize, but not increase. I bought a second battery, hoping that this would fix the issue. I had the same problem. Thinking that I got a faulty battery, I bought another battery. Yet again the problem persisted. It's obvious that there's no problem with the cord, and I highly doubt that all three batteries are defective; there must be a problem with the computer. However, I've no clue what the problem is or how to fix it. I've tried the popular idea of starting the computer without the battery and then again with the battery, but that didn't work. No other solutions that I've found are for this particular issue.
   Secondly,  fairly often, there will be a green line going down across the middle of my screen. I can usually make this go away by shutting and reopening the lid, but other times I have to restart the computer to make the line go away.
   Thirdly, there is another problem that will ocassionally happen. My computer will boot up as normal, but the mouse remains frozen at the center of the screen. Again, I can solve this by restarting the computer. However, of course, it all HAPPENS again at some point or another.

Any ideas on what I should do? Are there any solutions? Do I complain to Dell? Or do I just look at getting a new computer?The laptop has an external power supply.
(Image from Amazon.com)
It is possible the power supply is weak, but I don't think so. Inside the laptop there are more regulators and snuff for the changing circuit. It takes an experienced tech to replace those semiconductor chips.
Here is as post on the Dell site that sounds like your problem.
http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/laptop/f/3518/t/19580985
In the posts above, no SUGGESTION is made as to a hardware failure. Rather they seem to think something is wrong with the monitor software. You may wish to use a multimeter and verify the voltages at the battery and the adapter.
Does that help any?
Not quite... concerning the battery issue:

When plugged in: The laptop tells me that it is plugged in AND charging. However, the percent charge that is shown to me never goes up.

When not plugged in: The computer registers that it has been unplugged, and the charge drops fairly rapidly.

I conclude that the adapter is working just fine. As I previously stated, the laptop will RUN without the battery so long as it is plugged in. I doubt that the batteries are faulty, but I'm not 100% sure.Contact Dell and  get the service formation. There is a specification for the the battery, the AC adapter and the charging circuit. The battery monitor is a real-time  differential analyzer and has t o be properly calibrated at the factory. What that means is that a 1 % in component drift can make  a large error in output reading. In othker words, it can fail to report that battery is charging. After the battery has been plugged in for OVERNIGHT, measure the terminal voltage and compare it to the specs given by Dell.
I am not abler to give you specific information. The problem is the method used to measure charge rate. If you have some laboratory equipment  you can measure the charge your self using tables published by battery makers.
This deference explains some of the issues:
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries
Lithium-ion batteries have a very flat voltage discharge. The estimate of change is measured by input current from the adapter to the battery over time. Aftrer about an hoer the current drops to some level below 1000 ma. Afterthree hours is is down to 250 ma and near full charge.

All right, it seems you were right  ; the meter on my desktop was incorrect. It read my battery as being empty and put my computer to sleep. I awoke it, and it WORKED just fine; my computer was not out of power.

Now that that's resolved, there's just one last thing:
Am I to assume that I can not fix the meter to properly display how much power the battery has stored?

Taking for example Dell Dimension 4700, or Dell Optiplex GX260.
Can i simply REMOVE the processor and change it for an other one? because right now if i put a 64bit windows 7 disc it says the computer is not compatible.
Quote from: sirgilmour on February 21, 2015, 04:42:25 PM

Taking for example Dell Dimension 4700, or Dell Optiplex GX260.
Can i simply remove the processor and change it for an other one?
because right now if i put a 64bit windows 7 disc it says the computer is not compatible.

Has anyone here painted any parts inside their case?

I came across these....

I am new to this computer world. But love learning more about them each day.

I realy LIKE the paint and contraist on the HDD cage. And I also love the fact that they painted the graphics card faceplate white.

Whats everyone THINK? Or experance with this? After searching GOOGLE and yahoo I did not come up with many topics about this.

I SUPPOSED a lot of it depends on what you paint? And with what kind of paint?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0yYrcf-0jY

http://www.techreaction.net/forums/cases-modding/5901-tricorder-chic-2.html
What you are talking about is a whole sector of PC techy things called: Case Modding

These PEOPLE specialize in making it pretty.  Fancy lights, odd shapes, efficient air flow, cool pictures.  If you are interested google it.

Computer Power User is an e-zine that features monthly modding pictures.

That sort of thing gets me excited too.

-Mal

Hi,

I have a WD My book DRIVE which suddenly BECOME unrecognisable when connected to my laptop.
It contained data I wanted but I could not retrieve any of it.
I EVENTUALLY formatted the drive as I gave up trying but now I believ it is still possible to retrieve the data, is this true and if so how ?
THANKSIF you formatted CHANCES are your only choice is a data recovery company...not cheap...

My pc started restarting or crashing or whatever you call it this early FEBRUARY. frequen crashes in games.

it's a new rig that my friend built for me and it's only 3months old. here are the specs:

Mobo: Gigabyte F2A58M-DS2
Processor: AMD A8-5500
GPU: Radeon R7 240 Series
Ram: Kingston HyperX Fury 4gb 1866
HDD: WD 1TB
PSU: Corsair VS450

The problem started when i played DOTA 2. monitor suddenly went black, when it started again it SAID that "windows did not shutdown properly." then have 3 given options: "Safe mode, Safe mode with net
working, safe mode with command prompt and start windows normally." i don't know what started it. please help!
This should probably be posted in hardware.

Quote

monitor suddenly went black

I have a Dell Studio 540s Slim desktop PC with a Q8200 2.33ghz CPU & was wondering if I could UPGRADE the CPU without changing the motherboard or power supply. My power supply is 300w & I have seen in other forums that a Q9650 3.00ghz is the best CPU that will work with my current motherboard & power supply. I called Dell but they told me that they don't recommend using any CPU other than the Q8200 because it may damage my computer. Can anyone give me some advise as to whether the Q9650, Q9550 or Q9400 will work fine in my PC without any issues? Thanks! If dell recommended NOT to replace the original CPU according to OEM specifications and compatibility, then it is doing this at your own risk if disregarding their suggestion.Considering the relatively small performance boost you'd see from upgrading your CPU, I would probably advise against bothering, especially as the PRICES those CPUs often command on the used MARKET is a lot higher than I would SAY they are worth.  As that machine's a good few years OLD now and that CPU socket has been defunct for quite some time, you'd also be investing money into a dead-end machine at the end of the day.
If you're looking to boost performance, I would instead recommend getting an SSD - that would make much more of a noticeable difference than upgrading your CPU, and you'll also be able to move it to any semi-modern system as and when you get rid of that Dell so you wouldn't be wasting money in that sense.

Hello everyone.


I am new to the forum and new to the PC WORLD.  I am currently BUYING all the COMPONENTS to do my 1st PC build.

My PC will be used mainly for basic home use.  Primarily store home pics/vids and music.


I currently am not a gamer, but do intend to play some gaming In the future. Hoever I do not anticipate being a hardcore gamer.


I am building my PC as future proof as possible.  I am buying components that are more then adequate for my needs.  But that's the fun of building.


-------------


I have a question about SATA III connections.

I recently purchased a Corsair PSU.  I don't have it in front of me, but I believe it is a CX750 and has 6 SATA III connections.

SATA III connections connect into.... (please correct me if I'm wrong)

1: my SSD

2.  my HDD (I do intend to run a raid o HDD).  Si with 2 HDDs in RAID O, that requires 2 SATA III connections?

3.  MY optical drive.  (If I choose to go with an internal).

4.  My card read ( If I go with an internal )


Does a SATA III connections plug into my liquid cooling unit?  I am looking into going with a Corsair 100i?  Or does that plug into my MOBO?

Does my graphics card plug into a SATA III connections?  Or does that plug into my MOBO

Case fans and internal fans:  My case has an exhaust and 2 intake fans.  I do intend to add some HDD fans.  What do all the fans connect into?


Thanks for reading and helping.
They will connect to your optical drive and hard drive/SSD for sure.  It will not connect to your graphics card and chances are not the card reader as this will be powered off of the USB header.  The H100i will use a SATA power CONNECTION to power the pump.

Why not just wait until you have all the parts and then you will see what they are meant to connect to.

Also, RAID 0 HDDs, are you sure?  You already have an SSD for performance, running HDDs in RAID 0 is going to double your chances of total data loss, if one drive fails, all data on the array is gone.

Feel free to GET us to check the rest of the parts you are looking at before purchase.

Hello, I bought USED HP EliteBook 6930p laptop from ebay a year ago, I don't remember if that squeaking noise was there, but now it definitely is, it's high pitched eeeeeeeeeeee sound. I replaced old laptop HDD with Kingston SSD and laptop fans SEEMS to work okay (from sound). I googled the symptoms and found many similar problems with different laptops also many versions from where the sound comes (display, sound card, power supply ...), but seems there are no solutions, so I try my luck here. Maybe someone is familiar with similar problem or have some suggestions, any information is appreciated.
I recorded the sound here, the quality is bad so increase your volume, in reality it's louder.

Laptop: HP EliteBook 6930p
CPU: 2.4-GHz Intel Core 2 Duo P8600
RAM: 4GB
GPU: ATI Mobility Radeon HD 3450
SSD: Kingston V300 240GB SATA3
OS: Windows 7UPDATE: While browsing in BIOS, the sound is gone, it starts when windows logo appears on the screen. I tried to disable sound card from device manager, but that sound still existed.UPDATE: Still waiting for some advices. I tried to disable almost all devices from BIOS that I could (WLAN, Bluetooth ...), the sound remained. Then I booted Linux distribution from CD, still the sound remained. Then I launched Memtest86, there were no sound during the TEST, so I thought that CPU might be the problem. I launched ''Intel Processor Diagnostic Tool'' and SOMETHING changed, during the test high pitched noise was gone, there was very quiet constant buzzing instead. When all tests were passed (without any problem) the high pitched noise appeared again. So I'm pretty sure CPU is making that noise. During the test CPU usage according to Task Manager was 100%. I attached test results from Intel Processor Diagnostic Tool.
So is there something that could be done to reduce that noise, maybe change CPU frequency a bit?

[attachment DELETED by admin to conserve space]My 6930P suffered with this, it's basically capacitor whine.  Nothing you can really do about this, it won't be the CPU itself making the noise but the capacitors on the laptop's motherboard.
Not sure how loud yours is in person, mine was loud enough to be noticeable but not terribly annoying so I just lived with it.When I figured out where is the problem, I found some more information about it, particularly here and if you don't want to read whole thread here is the solution which helped me:
Quote

Could be power management issue - try this - works a treat
1. Execute: "regedit"
2 .Locate: HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE \ SYSTEM \ CurrentControlSet \ Control \ Power \ PowerSettings \ 54533251-82be-4824-96c1-47b60b¬740d00 \ 5d76a2ca-e8c0-402f-a133-215849¬2d58ad
3. Change Attributes from 1 to 0.
4. Then, through the control panel - power - in the settings mode select power management processor. There will be an option disabling idle processor and high pitched noise immediately disappears.

cpu will run a bit hotter and the power consumption will increase

First I want to thank everyone for their response about SATA III connections.  It helped a lot.

 

 

As I mentioned I am building this PC from the ground up

It's purpose will be a basic computer.  But at some point I would like to get into some gaming.  I don't think I'll get too serious into it.

Like I mentioned this is a basic purpose PC.  I would like to getsome software to do some editing on our family videos at some point in time

 

My next question is cooling.

I have an i7 4790k.  Its more of a processor then I need.  But I got a screaming deal on it Microcenter for $250!

Everyone has told me to replace the fan as it sucks.

I do not intend to overclock.

 

But I am taking this BUILD serious.  Money is not an issue.  I would like to put the best parts on/in it to get the most out of it.  And hopefully get more longevity.

 

When I was Micro center the lady had recommended I go with a closed loop liquid cooling system.  And toss the i7 fan in the garbage.

 

Is liquid cooling way to much of an overkill for my needs.  I know its more then is necessary.  But will it negatively hurt to go with liquid cooling.  Or would I get better performance out of an air cooled unit.

 

I have a Corsair 760t case.  So room and venting is not a problem.

 

Thanks in advance everyone.



I would like to take advantage of my 760t panel window and show of my build.
You already seem to know enough to answer this yourself...

Quote

I do not intend to overclock.

Is liquid cooling way to much of an overkill for my needs.  I know its more then is necessary.  But will it negatively hurt to go with liquid cooling.  Or would I get better performance out of an air cooled unit.

As the title stated, whenever I plug a removable storage device that uses USB 3.0 into one of the blue ports on the motherboard, the device doesn't show up on my computer.

I can HEAR the usual sound playing from my desktop whenever a USB device is plugged in and the storage device itself flashes, indicating at least some sort of connection. However the device doesn't show up at all and when I troubleshooted, it stated that the device driver is broken. My usb 3.0 devices work perfectly fine on the other usb ports (usb 2.0) though. What motherboard do you have?  MIGHT be WORTH checking that your drivers are up to date, then checking the USB3 firmware and your BIOS version, see if there are newer VERSIONS available.One thing you can try as well...
Go to Control Panel/Device Manager...expand all instances of USB roots and hubs.
Clik each one and select un-install/remove...do this for all of them.

Upon re-boot they will be re-installed automatically.... Quote from: patio on February 25, 2015, 06:26:03 AM

Go to Control Panel/Device Manager...expand all instances of USB roots and hubs.
Clik each one and select un-install/remove...do this for all of them.
Upon re-boot they will be re-installed automatically....

Do I have to setup my SSD for UBUNTU GNOME 14.04? If so, what is it i have to do

Thanks!:)Not really, you just install Ubuntu ONTO it like you would do with a regular HARD DRIVE.

Does anyone have experience of the utility Key Tweak (available in Downloads) and in particular its suitability for use with a WINDOWS 8.1 PC?  I recently purchased a !0" Tablet with a keyboard.  It is set to UK English but a few of the keys are not correct and could do with being re-mapped. For example the " symbol I have just used required the key to be clicked, and the " symbol is on the key!

The pdf manual that comes with Key Tweak only goes up to Windows 7.  I have emailed the PUBLISHER but the manual was written some years ago so there is a good chance the email will not reach its intended destination.   

Clayto2The freeware you mentioned is one of many like tools that can remap your keyboard.

This feature dates back to the early days of DOS when MS allowed different keyboard layouts to be use with DOS and Windows. It was real irritating if you bought a computer with the wrong layout. I got a PC in Bolivia that  had a Brazilian Portuguese layout.  Not what I needed!

All CURRENT versions of Windows have some way of doing a remap of the keyboard. One popular option is to have two layouts that you can toggle.

In Windows 8.1 search for 'keyboard layout' and SEE what you find.

Thanks for the information Geek, I will investigate what my current Windows might be able to do.  I know it has a number of language options (mine is UK English).  There are only about 4 keys that are wrong, they are not letters but things like# and .  I can live with that but at TIMES it is responsible for me making an unseen error entering a password.

Clayto2

ok let me STAR by saying I just got a used hard drive and I have 2 partition drives one is C drive and other is d drive but it is a logical. I have no problems with this hard drive it really good but I am trying to take the space on c to put it to d logical and nothing seems to work. this logical partition will not expand and I cannot put unallocated space on it. tried EaseUS and Minitool, and Aomei partition manager software and none of them work to add space to my drive d. I am adding a shot of my current partition figuration so if anyone can help me please let me know

thankyou

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]There does not seem to be any problem.In Windows, the power to change the size of a partition is limited. The general rule is to make the drive smaller by allowing more unused space after the partition.  In other words, the RIGHT side of the graphic. But tools like Mini-Tool and Easeus are more flexible. But even with those tools, a reboot may be needed. All other programs must be shut down.
Here is link to Easeus.
http://www.easeus.com/partition-manager/
You may want to proactive on a old drive until you get the knack. Make a mistake and you lose your data and even the system.

Windows and Linux programs differ in representation of the extended partition. In Linux it is partition 5, but does not hold  data. The logical partitions will be shown inside partition 5. Then when you create a logical partition, such  might  be 6, 7 or 8 or higher.
On the other side, how Windows numbers partitions is a bit of a mystery. Windows may number the first logical portion as 4  when there are  3 primary partitions on the drive. I am not sure of how that works.
Who setup this HDD ? ?

Personally i would wipe both partitions...format the full HDD as NTFS and do a clean install of the OS...
But that's just me.I agree with Patio. Your Windows files are on D: while your boot loader is on C: . There is no need for a setup like that when there is only one OS installed and only one physical drive. You're probably better off starting from scratch and during the install process delete the logical partition and create one single partition, especially given the small size of the drive. And if you don't need this drive for Windows you absolutely should create just one partition.ok allan just how do I do all this I am not a partition person I don't know what I am doing also I bought the drive used don't know who set it up I needed a new drive asap and this one was great priced and available right then and there so again tell me how to wipe all this and make a new partitionIs it going to be your Windows drive ? ?
If so Boot to the Windows CD...in setup delete both existing partitions and press continue setup when it's done...
Windows will then ask what file system you want...select NTFS...Windows will then partition it and setup will continue...

P.S. Remember to re-install ALL your drivers after the clean install is finished.First, if this is going to be your primary drive it is a HUGE mistake to use a pre-owned drive. Hard drives are not EXPENSIVE and you are only asking for trouble with a used drive.

Having said that, you have two options. First, if this is going to be your only or primary drive, boot to your Windows CD or DVD. The Windows installation process will begin and one of the first steps will be an option to delete and format partitions (see the link below for detailed instructions). You will then continue with the installation of Windows.

If it is going to be a secondary drive, just boot to Windows, enter disk management (START - RUN - diskmgmt.msc - press ENTER), delete all partitions on the secondary hard drive and format. Be sure to select the CORRECT drive.

http://pcsupport.about.com/od/operatingsystems/ss/windows-7-clean-install-part-1_11.htmis it possible to use a partition manager to take logical drive and put everything on c drive and then delete d driveD: Drive appears to contain Windows. Is this going to be your primary drive?d has windows on it but I would like to make everything on c and make c primary and get rid of d hope that makes senseDid you see my instructions above ? ?ok patio read them just I will reinstall windows but before that I will delete both drives and my question is will windows make the c drive automaticallyIt's in my info...and yes.patio you the man everything worked out fine except I had to wipe everything all the way down to nothing and restart from there but all went well and thanks a lot dude really thankyouGood news indeed...glad to hear you are fixed up...

BTW i was very clear on the fact it would involve a total wipe above.

PC is used for internet browsing not gaming, GPU - Radeon X1300

So, some days ago, I was on my computer, and suddenly, the display went off. That was no surprise for me since that used happen from day to day, I rebooted the PC after the display went off. Then it occurred to me that I should clean the inside of the PC (of dust), I opened up the CASE (while it was booting) and touched the video card to see if there was any dust on it and when I did so, the PC went off. I unplugged it, and moved on with getting the dust off. And when I tried to turn it on, the PC booted and the lights went on and fans, etc... , but there was nothing displayed on the screen.
Does that mean the video card has died because I touched it with my bare hands? Or anything else?I would remove all power to the system and then remove and re-seat the vid card...

I'd also try another monitor just in case...As patio said, a good reseating sounds like it's in order (that is, remove the video card from its connecting slot on the motherboard [WARNING: be sure power is disconnected and flushed. Remove the power cable from the power supply, then press and hold the power button until the LED indicators and/or fans cease activity], clean the connector and connecting slot, and reinstall the card).

Whenever working on internals/electronics with open circuits, it is wise to use ESD personal protective equipment (such as an ESD wrist band) to avoid compromising electrical components via electrostatic discharge (ESD). ESD occurs when a difference in voltage between two bodies is sufficient enough for electrical current to flow (and in most cases, peripherals like RAM and graphics cards can be damaged by ESD without even feeling the discharge/"static-shock").

When removing the graphics card, be sure to mind any retaining clips that may need attention before pulling the card out. Once out- Inspect the contacts on the graphics card and gently remove any dust with a can of compressed air. Re-install the graphics card into its slot- make sure to re-attach any connectors that came off such as PCI-e power connectors. Re-assemble the case and plug the power cord back in.

if this does not work, try connecting to your monitor using a different port (if using HDMI, try DVI(usually a white connector) if available. Or if using DVI, try D-SUB/VGA connector(usually blue) if available. Sometimes ports go out too, as happened to me a few years back (this is pretty rare though). So if you've noticed, some days ago I posted a topic asking if my video card was dead. I tried the advices given and they didn't pay off. EVENTUALLY, I went to a technician, and the PC booted well at his place so I had a conclusion that my VGA cable wasn't working. And one of my two RAM cards was dead (each 2GB). So I replaced them both with one 4GB card. When I went HOME I tried to turn it on, there was still no display on the screen so I became more sure that the VGA cable was the issue. I didn't have another one to try it on and ordered one. However, today I tried to boot the PC I kept on getting beeps, I tried reseating the RAM but that didn't work. I'm terrified. Any help would be appreciated.Does the MBoard support 4G RAM stiks ? ?Please do not START multiple threads for the same problem. I merged your new thread into this one. Quote from: patio on February 22, 2015, 07:09:47 AM

Does the MBoard support 4G RAM stiks ? ?

Are you sure it's the correct RAM ? ?

From Our Archives...

I was asking if the RAM is correct...not the card...

what patio is trying to tell you is if the frequency of your RAM supported by your mainboard.

most supports 1333mhz/1600mhz depending on manufacturers.

the beep you are getting comes from your RAM, try changing the slots and make sure they are pressed in the slots correctly (you will hear a clipping sound)

start your system you should hear a clean beep once only if all goes well.

Hello all.
I might have a problem with my SSD.
I have a 120GB drive for the operating system. Windows 7.
When I check how much free space I have on the drive.It says 10 GB free. But when I go into the drive and highlight all the folders within the drive,it says "Size 46.5 GB used" "Size on disk 46.1" Has anybody seen this before? Should I be worried?
Also,within the drive I have a folder named Windows.old.000. How do I know if its safe to delete this?
Thanx in advance for any and all help.





Windows.old.000 WOULD indicate that this system has been either upgraded from a prior windows version or that a new copy of the same version of windows was installed and the old install set off to the side with a changed folder path. On a 120GB SSD, depending on which version of windows was on this drive prior to I assume an upgrade, you could have a good portion of the space wasted in this old windows install. As long as your current windows is running ok you may be able to delete this if your administrator of the computer. I have seen Windows 7 installations consume anywheres from 15GB upwards. So if you need some space back, deleting this would give you a good portion back.

You should run "Disk Cleanup" from the Properties dialog of your drive (right-click on the drive in Windows Explorer and select "Disk Cleanup".  When the 2nd dialog is displayed, click on the button labeled "Clean up system files".  That should clear out the windows.old file as well as any temporary files left over from system updates.



[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]NOTE: system old needs to be selected in the drop down box as it is not removed by default...I did the disk cleanup,clicked on the button,"Clean up system files" What is,Per user queued Windows ERROR reporting. This has 1.75GB.
Thanx for your help folks.
 After the disk clean up,it's still showing 100GB used. And again,after highlighting all the folders within the drive,those folders only add up to 33.5 GB. Where is the other 66.5GB?seems like there are some folders hidden on your hard disk or it may be a virus that is consuming free space.

first

OPEN Folder Options by clicking the Start button , clicking Control Panel, clicking Appearance and Personalization, and then clicking Folder Options.
Click the View tab.
Under Advanced settings, click Show hidden files and folders, and then click OK.

see if you have some folders showing up and have data in it.

also try scanning your Windows partition with an updated antivirus.download and run treesize to see where the space is being used: http://www.jam-software.com/treesize_free/There were some hidden files and folders but did not have much in them. No virus or Malware found,using Avast and Malwarebytes.
I ran "Treesize" and it shows 47GB used. 12 GB being used by hiberfil.sys. hiberfil.sys has something to do with hibernate,doesn't it? My drive is a SSD,so I don't use hibernate.
Right clicking the drive,presently showing 17.4GB free.
Quote from: daddymo3 on February 26, 2015, 07:01:49 PM

hiberfil.sys has something to do with hibernate,doesn't it? My drive is a SSD,so I don't use hibernate.

hi i just acquired this super old computer that i found on the curb, i believe it is a real antique specifications are as follow:

Leading Edge MP-1676L

1 5.25" floppy drive
Miniscribe 3012 5.25" half-height hard drive
Mitsubishi P/S (this thing is huge)
Mitsubishi Mother board MV-O (this is the only writing it has)
08088-2 processor
6 8-bit slots
the cards it has are:
RLL HDD card
External drive card
RAM card
25 pin serial port card
Monochrome monitor/Parallel port card

last time i tried this computer it had a CP/M and nSTAR operating system. What IM trying to do is i would like to know if i could install a 16 bit video card on a 8 bit slot, since my old IBM Monochrome monitor is in its last days i want to use a regular cheap svga monitor (it doenst matter to me if the output is monochrome) . The thing is i dont want to try it without knowing if installing a card in such a manner can ruin a computer. and this a computer i would like to keep in working condition

any HELP and advice WELCOME thank you very muchNo, you can't (physically) install a 16-bit card in an 8-bit slot (you can visa-versa though).    It would probably blow out the computer because each of those points-of-connection is either voltage, data or nothing.  You plug in the wrong card and it isn't GOING to work.  Bummer, I know.  

Alan <><  I suggest giving up on this project for a LOT of reasons.  Why in the world would you want to get that peice of scrap metal working?, Jut go ebaying if you really need onei see, so then i guess ill just leave this at that,

i just happen to COLLECT these things,
i have a couple of old computers like the Altair 8800, IBM 5160, Molecular Computer, etc
and some really old printers like the IBM 1403,
and various panels and Mobos from old machines.If it fits, you can do it? Quote from: CyberHawk on October 04, 2006, 04:25:04 PM

last time i tried this computer (Molecular) it had a CP/M and nSTAR operating system. What im trying to do is i would like to know if i could install a 16 bit video card on a 8 bit slot, since my old IBM Monochrome monitor is in its last days i want to use a regular cheap svga monitor (it doenst matter to me if the output is monochrome) . The thing is i dont want to try it without knowing if installing a card in such a manner can ruin a computer. and this a computer i would like to keep in working condition

any help and advice welcome thank you very much

hey all, i noticed TODAY that my gpu idel temp was sitting at about 65c i thought that was a little high for not doing anything demanding on my computer, so i got some compressed air and cleaned out my pc including the gpu. now its sitting at 59c and the room temp is 29 give or take a couple degrees. under load at 29 degees room temp it does not GO over about 76 degrees celcious. computer is only about a year old and it gets cleaned around every 2-3 months. Are these tempretures what i should be EXPECTING, i know that the threshold is about 80 but in my EYES its sitting a bit warm.The temps are normal. If you add another fan it may go down, but the NOISE level will go up. Your choice.  thanks just making sure, spent so much on it i kind of want to keep it around haha

I gave a friend of mine my GeForce 9400 to replace his crappy integrated GeForce 6150 graphics. (don't tell me to get a better graphics card, he plays games like LoL and Dota, and it works perfectly for that) After installation, we noticed that the computer was loading painfully slow. If we switch back to onboard graphics, it becomes as fast as it used to be. When Windows asks me if I want to boot in safe mode or in normal mode, when I press enter, you see the message slowly wipe to the bottom. Safe mode is also painfully slow at all times. We tested the hard drive performance with a tool, and we saw performance spikes at a very regular interval of maybe 4 seconds. Loading anything takes an eternity, but in-game performance proved to be way better than the integrated gfx, nonetheless.

I don't know how installing a new graphics card would alter loading speed or why it would cause the safe mode selection screen to slowly wipe away.

The computer is an eMachines EL1321, we upgraded the PSU to accommodate the card's wattage requirements, and moved it to a bigger case to allow the GPU to fit inside. We removed and re-installed the drivers when we put in the new card.

I'm out of ideas, what NEXT?What CPU and how MUCH RAM is in this system? Adding a Geforce 9400 video card, the video card is probably sharing some of its memory with that of the system. I have seen Video Cards that grab some system memory as its own as shared such as a GeForce 8400 GS that I have that is a 512MB Card that grabs 256MB system memory in systems that its installed into. If this system was already running on bare minimum memory  the video card can steal a portion of this system memory and hurt performance causing more data to have to page in the swap file of the hard drive.The CPU is an AMD Athlon 2 X2 and it has 3 GB of RAM. The card is supposed to have 1 GB of GDDR2, it says it on boot and on the sticker on the back of it. I have tried the card in my own (Linux) computer and it was loading as fast as with my 8600 GT. Should we try disabling swap?What is the exact make/model of the video card? Going to check into its specs to see if it grabs a system memory allocation. Disabling swap space would probably make it worse as for I believe your DEALING with a low memory situation.

With the card out I would look to see what it shows for FREE memory and then with the card installed look at the free memory count?

So it looks like I am going with an AFTERMARKET CPU HEATSINK and fan set-up and not a liquid cooling set-up.


I'm looking all the options of fans out there. LED. NON - LED etc...


Heres my question?

If I were to purchase a aftermarket CPU cooling unit like ( just for example ) some type of COOLER master, and Deep cool etc....  Is it possible to replace the fans they came with, with other fans from another company as LONG as they are the same size?


For example I buy the CM 212-EVO but want LED fans.  Can I just swap the fans for LED fans?


I look the DB reading on all the aftermarket CPU heatsink fans and they are all over the board.  If I were to replace the fan it came with, with a separate fan that has a lower db reading what that work?  And would that decrease the db then?
Yes you can.

I have an HP Pavilion g4 laptop with pre installed windows 8 on it. It broke down a week ago. It was FINE when I turned it on for a few minutes/hours, but sometimes suddenly it's got bluescreened and restarted itself. Usually once in every half an hour.
I've reinstalled it for like 3 times but it always ended up like that.

I run the chkdsk on command prompt. It showed error on disk c. But the other DISKS are fine. I gave it up on repair and the technician said that it's probably because of hard disk damage. But is there any other possible cause?
Buying a new hard disk will be costly and I'm a student.
Should you need further information, please kindly inform me.

And I'm sorry I'm still a new member here.
Thanks in advance.Welcome Aboard...
A few questions...how old is this laptop and was it dropped at all recently ? ?
Have you used the folks at this Shop before ? ? A 2nd opinion is an option here...
And lastly you mentioned "other" discs...how many in this PC ? ?

Have you re-installed the OS ?
Check Device Manager for any Yellow !'s... Quote from: patio on February 25, 2015, 08:08:18 AM

Welcome Aboard...
A few questions...how old is this laptop and was it dropped at all recently ? ?
Have you used the folks at this Shop before ? ? A 2nd opinion is an option here...
And lastly you mentioned "other" discs...how many in this PC ? ?

Have you re-installed the OS ?
Check Device Manager for any Yellow !'s...

Have you tried running the disk drive manufacturer's diagnostic for the drive?  That should tell you if there are surface defects on the drive.

my friend was giving away his old gateway from 2000, and all he had to do was reformat the harddrive. but since it ran on windows 2000, i couldn't figure out how to reformat it, so i tried to USE a boot disk, but it turned out that it was from windows 95 and wouldnt read the drive. i have the computer now, but not the hard drive, and he said that if i could figure out how to reformat it he would give it to me, so could anyone help me out.
if you NEED more info just say so... thanksWhat are you going to load on there?how to reformat it?

an installation cd, or disk. depending on what you wanna put on there, for example if you wanna load xp, you'll need xp os software, which COSTS money, or you can borrow one from SOMEBODY you know.thanks, i'll try that, i already have a copy of xp

Alright. I've been to QUITE a few FORUMS with this problem, yet none of them have diagnosed it accurately.

A couple months back, I got an ATI Radeon x800 GTO/PRO GRAPHIC card. Before that I was using Nvidia 5200 geforce which was working smooth.

Ever since I installed the x800, I've not been able to play my games properly (even the of games which worked fine with the 5200). They lag, skip in between. thus the gameplay isn't smooth.

My computer is quite old, and here are the specifications, not that I know much about computers but anyway..

P4 1.60 ghz
384 MB of (SD) ram
ATI - X800
20 GB hard drive

Do you have ANY idea what the problem is? Is it a problem with the drivers? I suppose I uninstalled the drivers before installing new drivers. One thing I know is.. my old graphic card didn't have a fan nor a power supply. And this one has both.

You can criticize all you want on my rig, but just help me with this problemI like your attitude.

So what did they suggest on the other forums? To prevent repetition..

Here are the couple replies i got from other forums.. which weren't really helpful

no offence here but your rig must be scraping the min reqs(ram defo) for most games now.

only thing i can THINK is to make sure all your drivers are upto date and HOPE for the best.

Seeing how the system requirements for the game which is skipping are, than it is a driver issue. check game site for patches, updates & faq in reference to that card.

And I did update the drivers.. I could still do it again. But what happens when i do that is..

Uninstall driver = can't play games, fonts, desktop looks rough and low quality
install driver = back to square oneWhat is the make and wattage of the power supply?

You're not sure if you uninstalled the nVidia drivers?To add to GX1_Man his questions;

1. Did you uninstall the drivers of the previous videocard?
2. Do you have a virus/spyware scanner installed?
3. What OS are you using?

I'm not sure exactly what the problem I have is.. but I'll try explaining everything the best I can.

Ok, I got a new older computer the other day and I used [email protected] killdisk to erase windows and everything else so I could go about installing linux. I know how to partition and everything, but when I used killdisk, it somehow messed up the hard drive and the computer doesn't even detect it anymore... so I took a hard drive from an older computer and hooked it up to the new one.

I got it to run ok, and everything's hooked up as it should be. (I'm not a computer expert at all, but I hooked it up just like the other one was.. and it's working, so yeah.. I'm guessing it's all hooked up right.)

The thing is.. on the older computer (the one I took the 2ND hard drive from), I had already successfully used killdisk and wiped the data, then partitioned it using zboot.. but I accidently set the partitioned space to a system that doesn't exist. (Like.. I forget exactly what I did.. but I named a system for the hard drive space to be used for, I think.)

But yeah, so that means I can boot the computer normally and it GOES to the zboot menu (since zboot's unregistered, it goes to a menu with a timer where you have to wait to boot your system). From there, I can wait and boot the system that doesn't exist.. which doesn't do anything.

Soo.. what I wanna do is use zboot and erase the "system" that it's set to so I can INSTALL linux correctly. But my computer won't boot from floppy or disk ever since I put the new hard drive in. I can have the BIOS set to boot from floppy first, then disk, then the hard drive.. but it goes straight to the zboot menu and skips the floppy disc.

So if I can only figure out how to get it to boot from floppy again, then maybe I can fix it.

Sorry for the long explanation and if it doesn't make sense.. but I dunno what to do now or how to fix it. Can ANYONE help me out with this? Is there any way to force boot from a floppy or anything like that? Or anything else.. any ideas, even if they sound crazy, I'll try'em.

Thanks in advance.
-anthony-Have you reset the bios boot sequence to boot from the floppy first?

Did you put the jumper back properly?

Is the HDD detected in the BIOS? Quote from: Dusty on April 27, 2007, 01:52:31 AM

Have you reset the bios boot sequence to boot from the floppy first?

Did you put the jumper back properly?

Is the HDD detected in the BIOS?

However, my computer only has one audio jack.

Sadly, this is a Dell laptop... there is only one audio jack on the whole thing. 

The jack is marked as a headphone jack.

By Zach Spear.  February 12, 2009.
A few owners of Apple's new unibody notebooks are experiencing backwards compatibility issues with the units' redesigned audio jacks, which offer a snug connection for the company's latest headphones with integrated microphones at the expense of a few legacy stereo headsets and speaker connectors.

so its wasnt seeing hard drive, and i switched it out , but everytime i try and boot, it wont let me into BIOS, then goes to black screen that says enter password, the guy says he doesnt think there was a password,, but like i SAID, it shows up before any windows screen.
any help???The aspire ax1700 is not worth repair. It can be sold for parts. Maybe. It maybe near 8 years old and does not perform well enough h to justify an investment of time and money

If the old drive has important data, it can be slaved to anohter computer.

Others liklety will agree.   

Try resetting the BIOS by clearing it via removal of the 2032 battery or if there is a cmos clear jumper clear it that way.

Once your able to clear the bios back to default you should then have the ability to install an OS and get it running.

As far as age of system and not wasting time and money on, I dont think you would have to invest much time and money to get this working... if this system is a CORE 2 Duo E7300 as google search shows its still very capable of being used for most computer needs, however heavier gaming demands might be outside of this systems processing means. My wife has a Core 2 Duo E6600 with 3GB 667Mhz DDR2 RAM with Windows 7 32-bit and its pretty quick to boot and game with for games like World of Warcraft etc. She has a GeForce 9800GT 1GB card in it as well.

So I wouldnt just give up on it. If you have time to invest in this I think you could get it working again with no problems if this is the only issue.