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It's true.
You can link your  Roku video streamer without need for a Credit card.

I just bought a new Roku.**  First time for me. I had no idea I needed to give them my credit card to make it work.

But there is a video on You Tube that shows how to do it. Really!  You just have to be able to read. That is hard for me, so I watched the video and saw him do it. There is a LITTLE thinning says something like "slop this' or something.
Link Roku without a Credit card.

So there is a WAY! 

** Roku
Quote

The Roku Streaming Player (or simply Roku) is a series of set-top boxes manufactured by Roku, Inc. Roku partners provide over-the-top content in the form of channels. A Roku streaming device gets data (the video stream) via a wired or Wi-Fi connection to an Internet router.

Friend of mine brought me his old gaming rig last night running a Athlon 64 x2 4200+ socket 939 on normally 2GB RAM with Vista, because the high end at the time of release ( A8N-SLI Premium ASUS ) motherboard on boot YELLS over the speaker port about a memory failure. With a single 1GB STICK in slot 0 its happy running single-channel. Tested both sticks with memtest86 in slot 0 and they are happy. Placing both sticks together in slots 0 and 1 gives 2GB RAM single-channel and memtest86 passes with no problems. Found that for some reason slot 2 is bad. Either something blown on the board or a contact issue of some kind. I moved his sticks to slots 1 and 3 and dual-channel is working for 2GB ( 2 x 1GB DDR PC3200 OCZ ) high end sticks.

I gave him his system back with it running on slots 1 and 3 vs 0 and 2, and is there any issues that might arise from this not so common memory configuration as for in years past I was told always to populate slot 0 and then you either populate 0 with 1 or 0 with 2 for dual-channel boards, but slots 1 and 3 for dual-channel to skip slot 2 and maintain dual-channel is something I have never had to do before as a work around for a memory slot failure.

The odd thing about this failure is that he had been gaming playing BF2 and then in crashed on him with memory failure and it then came up with memory error on boot and so he brought it to me. He wasnt messing with RAM sticks to damage anything and the inside of the computer is ACTUALLY clean for its age with no grime in the slots etc. So I am thinking that a motherboard component likely failed since the RAM sticks both are fine and that slot no matter what is placed into it gives memory failures. There are a whole bunch of micro surface mount components between the slots and maybe one of them died, but didnt take down the memory bus completely.  Using slots 1 and 3 vs 0 and 2 won't cause any issues, it's fairly common for anyone using larger CPU coolers to be unable to use the closest slot to the CPU anyway.  I know every single X58 system with 6 RAM slots I've ever built has used slots 1, 3 and 5 rather than 0, 2 and 4 just out of habit.Cool thx for confirmation that its an ok config. I havent come across any heatsinks that conflict with memory slots yet, just one that was too tall for the side cover to be installed. It was a large ring with a fan and heat pipes looped through it that was for a deeper ( wider ) gaming case and a 15 year old brought to be asking for my advice on what to do... which was to run it with the side panel off, swap the guts into a gaming case that will fit it, go back to the stock cooler if it was running cool to begin with, or take a dremmel to the side panel and cut out a square area for the heatsink to stick out of the side of the case and then leave it exposed this way or fabricate  something to make it not look so bad.

He ended up going back to the stock cooler on the Pentium E5400 dual-core, and there was no need to upgrade the heatsink with an overkill heatsink ANYWAYS. I think he was doing it to show off to friends with intention to being able to pop the side panel off and make the $400 HP desktop mATX tower look like a higher end gaming system. He ended up selling this heatsink on ebay because the place he bought it from only had a replacement warranty on it but no money back once opened and used.

Hi , everyone I am a Self taught Computer repair technician.   25 years experience and I have some some pretty hairy stuff.  I come to you all not as a shop OWNER but as a student.

Yesterday I sold a Unit  Mid size Windows XP system she got a virus on it  and was going to come back for service, However she sat it down and somehow Knee'd it with against the wall.   on the motherboard side she thinks.  there is no Video at all.

Things I have tried:  VGA cables * multiple *  DVI-to-HDMI cable, Multiple TV's and MONITOR's and even a Graphics card.

any ideas would help.  this young lady spent $70  on the tower.  I feel bad for her. Quote

Yesterday I sold a Unit  Mid size Windows XP system she got a virus on it  and was going to come back for service, However she sat it down and somehow Knee'd it with against the wall.   on the motherboard side she thinks.  there is no Video at all.

I have a 256 mb video CARD. 2.3 ghz. 512 mb of ram. My computer messes up and won't play games that are way below those specs? Can anyone help me?What games?
What OS?
Does it run other games?
What happens when it "messes up"?
What video card and CPU do you have?  For example, 7600GT and P4, rather than 256Mb card and 2.3GHz CPU.
Did these games ever work RIGHT?
Are they legal copies?What OS is this?
What games are you trying to play?
Exactly what do you mean when you say your computer "messes up"?  What happens?
Have these games ever worked?
What protection do you have?
Do you have the latest video card drivers?

EDIT:  Ooh, looks like you beat me, Calum.My turn, then.

See BELOWI have a presario 6000 computer with windows xp. I have a pentium 4 with 2.53 ghz. My video card is a ATI RADEON 9550. None of my more modern games work. Battlefield 2, Battlefield 2142 dont work at all. Call of duty 2 and The Elder Scrolls 4: Oblivion work very poorly even on the lowest graphics setting. They skip from frame to frame. The latter 2 worked in the past. The first two are new and have never worked, but my computer beats the minimum SYSTEM requirements so they should work. These are all legit copies and they work on my brothers computer. I updated the drivers and tried everything I could but they still dont work. Thats why I am here.Battlefield 2142.


In order to play the game at the recommended resolution, detail and performance levels, your computer should match or exceed the following specifications:

Operating system: Windows XP with latest service pack installed
DirectX 9.0c February 2006 edition (included)
CPU: Intel Pentium 4/AMD Athlon 3.0 GHz or equivalent
RAM: 1.5GB
Video Card: 256MB DirectX compliant video card, Pixel shader 2.0 and above. (AGP and PCIe only)
Sound card: Sound Blaster X-Fi series from Creative Labs
Hard Drive space: 2.2GB of space is required to install the game
Internet connection: 512Kbit Cable/DSL connectionThese are the minimum system requirements for Battlefield 2142:

Operating system: Windows XP with latest service pack installed
DirectX 9.0c February 2006 edition (included)
CPU: Intel Pentium 4/AMD Athlon 1.7 GHz or equivalent
RAM: 512 MB
Video Card: 128MB DirectX compliant video card, Pixel shader 2.0 and above. (AGP and PCIe only)
Sound Card - DirectX 9.0c compatible
Hard Drive space: 2.2GB of space is required to install the game
Internet connection: 128kbit Cable/DSL connection

I meet or exceed all of theseanyone got any ideas
Quote from: Calum on April 25, 2007, 01:27:54 PM

What games?
What OS?
Does it run other games?
What happens when it "messes up"?
What video card and CPU do you have?  For example, 7600GT and P4, rather than 256Mb card and 2.3GHz CPU.
Did these games ever work right?
Are they legal copies?

These are the minimum system requirements for Battlefield 2142:

Operating system: Windows XP with latest service pack installed
DirectX 9.0c February 2006 edition (included)
CPU: Intel Pentium 4/AMD Athlon 1.7 GHz or equivalent
RAM: 512 MB
Video Card: 128MB DirectX compliant video card, Pixel shader 2.0 and above. (AGP and PCIe only)
Sound Card - DirectX 9.0c compatible
Hard Drive space: 2.2GB of space is required to install the game
Internet connection: 128kbit Cable/DSL connection

I meet or exceed all of these

hi, i am a student currently in a games media course. i would like to link my guitar up to my pc, and record each sound, so when someone plays that sound. An action happens on the screen.

can anyone help please!!!!!!

dan I'm wondering how many people connect their guitar to a PC?  Anyway, since this project is for a course you're taking, I think you should really be seeking that knowledge from that course.  If such a technique really falls within the realm of that class, I'd think the information on how to do it would be available in the materials normally used for such a class.  And, if it's a project that requires independent research, I think you may not find MUCH help in most computing forums, due to the very unusual and specialized nature of your project.Well, hooking up your guitar is the easy part.  You can just use your NORMAL amp cable and add a mic jack converter to the end of it, which you can get at RadioShack for less than $5.  This is all I have to do to hook up a guitar to my computer and start recording with it.  As for using the recorded sounds to cause certain actions to happen...I IMAGINE SOMETHING like that would take a bit more know-how, if it's even possible...Hey. This was way back on pg 3 so I don't know if you'll be back but...

You should buy this:
http://www.soundtech.com/lightsnake/index.asp

Pretty much the best thing I've ever bought.I have connected casste tape player to the sound card and recorded evrything thru audio edition, like Audacity. Worked fine Quote from: carlosthegreat on April 25, 2007, 06:43:56 PM

Hey. This was way back on pg 3 so I don't know if you'll be back but...

You should buy this:
http://www.soundtech.com/lightsnake/index.asp

Pretty much the best thing I've ever bought.

Hi everyone, I have been experiencing a problem with my speakers. After 4-5 minuites of use on my computer, a crackling and popping sound occurs (constantly and it is annoying as heck). At first I thought it was the speakers, but after getting a new set; the problem persisted. Now we think that it is the sound card that is causing all of the poblems but we can't sure. If anyone else has had this problem and knows weather or not it is the sound card (or know what it really is, it would be much appreciated.)

I am currently using:
-Sound blaster Audigy 2 ZS [C880] sound card
-Altec Lansing speakers.
-Windows Xp
Has it always been this way? If not, what has changed?i can't tell you, or be sure, SOMETIMES if you have a cell phone or something like that near your speakers, that can cause it.

but i'll tell you this, once upon a time i had an audigy, and same problems occured, didnt bother me as much, but it did happen. audigys suck.To test your sound card theory, try using a set of headphones instead.  They're not nearly as likely to be affected by OUTER interference.  But it could also be a problem with your speaker JACK.  Do you have a jack in FRONT that you can try?

Just got my new Gateway PRE loaded with Vista. Only thing is, my HP ScanJet 5P requires Windows 95 to be loaded in. I am close to illiterate with the innards of a computer. I tried a driver fix (SUGGESTED by a friend) by looking up my scanner name, but after loading the driver, I installed the CD for the scanner, and it still failed SAYING it does not support Windows NT, and I needed Windows 95 or 3.1.  Any suggestions for a fix? Vista has a problem with a LOT of older hardware (what a surprise  ) I would check the HP site and see what is available there. I feel so silly 'cause I don't really know what questions to ask. I went as suggested to HP site, they gave me options for my scanner, but the fix thing was for if my operating system was Windows 95, 98, XP or NT. I have Vista. Does that fall under NT? What is that? I am going to plea with my IT crew at work to see if anyone has W95 for me to load. Do you think that will work? Ontop of Vista? I had heard that it may spit it out. The old, Does Not Compute, type of RESPONSE.
I really would like to AVOID purchasing a new scanner, since I just about broke myself buying the new computer. Any thoughts?This scanner is ancient and I would wager that HP will not write Vista drivers for it.
Here are your OS options:
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/softwareCategory?lc=en&cc=us&dlc=en&product=58976&lang=en&

If you really like this scanner, your IT guy may be able to get it working in a VM (Virtual Machine) environment or in a dual-boot scenario.

It would be more convenient to step up to a AIO (All-in-One) or scanner that has Vista support.

Hello all, my first post to these boards.

The computer i'm having issues with is my first build and all has been well for 8 or 9 months now. 

MB: Asus M2N SLI-Deluxe
Audio: SoundMAX HD Audio (ONBOARD)
Speakers: Logitech Quadraphonic Speakers with Subwoofer


I've started to notice an odd popping or crackling sound coming from my speakers.  It is consistent and occurs on any audio playback whether it is music or a game.  Every 3-4 seconds the speakers click, pop, or crackle when sounds are being produced from the speakers.  This cyclic sound is not produced when there is no playback or the computer is off, although a simliar sound can still be produced by flicking light switches while the speakers are on.

At first I thought that they had become worn (3-4 year old speakers) because when someone flicks the lights in another room, I hear a pop in my speakers.  I assumed they were worn from this surging of power over time.  I then plugged my headphones in and realized that the speakers are not at fault because the same sound is produced over headphones.  Next I tried loading the NEWEST audio drivers from my MOTHERBOARD company.  After that had no effect, I tried other software options LIKE disabling WINAMP agent and turning off hardware acceleration, neither of which had any effect.

Any ideas you all can provide will be helpful to resolve this problem.  I didnt exactly want to buy a sound card because thats one more piece of hardware to buy when I'm not sure that would fix the problem anyway.It probably won't. Is that computer in a grounded receptacle? How old is the wiring in the house?The computer and all its peripherals are plugged into the same powerstrip which is plugged into the AC outlet.  I would estimate that the wiring is as old as the house and couldnt be older than 20-30 years.  I may try moving my entire setup to another location in the house to see if the electrical load is too great for the circut for this room and is causing the problem.

So things are not so hot...

I tried overclocking my intel i73770k again (I did it about a year ago and it worked well, but had to change things for other reasons, hackintosh reasons). It SEEMED to work fine after reset, booted into Windows, but my CMStorm Trigger wouldn't start. I hooked up one of my Logitec keyboards, and I selected restart to see if I could fix the Trigger not starting. The pc displayed the power off screen, and then went blank as usual. The computer didn't power off, it stayed on, and I waited to see what would happen. My noctua fan started going into overdrive, and so I turned off the power supply. I started the computer again, and I heard a relay click in the power supply, the noctua started, and then powered off. It wouldn't respond at all subsequently. I proceeded to turn off the power supply for a good 20 sec, powered it on again, and computer would start for a second as before, and then power off. I pulled the clearcmos jumper and tried to power it up again. It did briefly, and I replaced the jumper. After that, now the power supply won't even start briefly. The mobo light is on for power, but that's it. No fans, no clicking, nothing. I don't know what the heck I messed up, and I may have fried my CPU. How shall I trouble shoot this? I can get my other desktop back from my friend, to TEST another power supply, but that's pretty much all I can do I think. How can I figure out what is wrong/fix it, short of buying another mobo or cpu to test if that's what it is? I have the following setup:

Windows 8.1 Pro
Asus z77 Sabertooth
Intel i7 3770k
Corsair AX850
Noctua NH-D14

Thanks for your help!

Cheers,
Mike

UPDATE:

I was misinformed as to how to clear the CMOS. I did it correctly as per Asus's instructions and now at least it powers on, for longer than it did before, before powering off. Also another good sign is that after it powers off, it powers back on, and then powers off again etc. Which is better than not powering on at all. Haha. But still no bios. Hmmm. Thoughts?Attempt minimal boot... 1 stick of RAM only, no HDD or optical drives connected, and see if you can get it to boot to bios or error out on you with info on the error.
I agree with DAVE's advice above, but also what settings did you change when you tried to overclock your CPU?  It's highly unlikely that you friend it unless you did something crazy but it's worth checking just in case, for example, you set the CPU voltage way too high.UPDATE: Ok, so the clear cmos jumper worked! I had detached all the cables to the psu before doing it, and had forgotten to plug in the power to the cpu. Dough! So boom, everything works! Problem solved. Now I just have to fiddle with things so I can dial in my OC so it doesn't freak out like it did initially.

I didn't fiddle with the voltages at all, just the turbo and a couple of settings in CPU power management as per an overclocking guide on TomsHardware. I'll just play around with the turbo setting and set the memory to XMP as I did before... Tha ks a buch guys!!!Hah, I think we've all done that at some point, glad to hear you figured it out.  If you need any help or advice with your OC just post back, though the Tom's guides are usually pretty good.

Hello
I have this PROPLEM when i start my pc .
the massage of proplem is:
hardware monitor found an error  
and tell me to enter power setup to solve this issue .
I have entered setup and read options . I tried to make the setting defualt to recover but nothing solve the proplem .
please help me .This error is common when there is a loose connection somewhere... usually a fan connection. Trace all the wires from the PSU and check they are all connected properly.

Other than that, please provide more details on your system setup...and what happened prior to this.Did you INSTALL anything before this?I don't install any hard ware or SOFT ware beforeCheck the condition of the PROCESSOR fan - the problem might be cured by just a little bit of cleaning.

Take precautions against static...

Good luck

I've already tried going to hardware profiles and what not, unfortunatly "DMA mode if available" is not an option on one of the controllers. This is most irritating when i try to install games or watch a dvd because it slows my computer down to a crawl. I will prolly need basic stats on my computer for the help..... how do i go about doing this?How did you manage to do this? Did you mess around in the BIOS? What flavor of Windows are you RUNNING ? ?
The procedures may differ a bit so post as much info on your machine as possible... Quote

How did you manage to do this? Did you mess around in the BIOS?

What flavor of Windows are you running?
The procedures may differ a bit so post as much info on your machine as possible...

Quote

How did you manage to do this? Did you mess around in the BIOS?

yeah i did mess around a little bit, but im sure not so much to do this....

just bought some logitek speakers. i bought them as the ones on my lap top are blown and because i LIVE on a boat and these spaeakers work off the usb they seemed perfect. but when they are plugged in the sound still comes out of the old speakers. ive trouble shooted and made sure they are turned on etc but have accomplished nothing. the laptop is a toshiba qosmio g10 and is 2 years old
thanksTry going to START > Control Panel > Sound and Audio Devices.  Click on the Audio tab.  Are your speakers listed under Sound playback?  If so, select them and click on OK.  Does this help?i checked that, still didnt work Do you have another computer to test them on?yeah i tested them on my sisters lap top when she was over. they WORKED fine no probs.What Operating System is the laptop running? I was reading this ARTICLE and it could apply to your problem.windows xp home edition if thats what u mean. i dont know a lot about computers thats why im asking for help. im well embarrased now lolNothing to be embarrassed about I'm stumped  . What model are the speakers? Try searching the model number at http://www.logitech.com/ and see if you can find something about trouble shootings or anything to help you. dont know the model, it dosnt say and i dont have the box, so i CANT even take them back. good job my dad bought it lol. erm i will take them in when i take my laptop to be fixed. thanx anyway

So iv'e been helping a friend that is having a problem with his computer. He shut it down earlier this morning but when he comes home and turns it on, now it's just black screen and on the back of the moherboard it gives the debug code 2E. At one point we got it to say D0 but now it's back to 2E. Iv'e had him do everything from reseating every piece possible and benchtesting it with nothing but what is necessary. We've done i can think of. I looked it up and the only things i could find about it was that maybe the GPU is fried, or the motherboard itself is dead. The board is old and has been passed down to several people, and has had problems before.

Motherboard-XFX playhard 750I
CPU- Not sure, just remember it being a dual core2.6-2.8ghz processor.
Ram-8gigs, not sure what brand.
PSU- New, corsair cx500m or somthing. we switched out the old one about a month ago because it was dying itself and CAUSING problems.
HDD- there are two, they both have 250GB i think.

I KNOW the specs i'm GIVING aren't very descriptive but i can't get a  look at the PC myself and my friend knows little to nothing about this stuff.

I Cloned A 500GB Hard Drive to a TB on my windows VISTA home premeum desktop. Clone went good but computer still reconizes 500GB. Information program I installed recognizes TB. computer will not allow over 500GB. PLEASE HELPGo to Disk Management...report what it says there...
Most likely the other 1/2 of the drive will show as "unallocated"...thanks alot for your reply patio. got it taken care of. also made some phone calls found out that motherboard may not be able to handle a TB. it is 10 YRS old. love this site. thanks againDon't jump to it being the motherboard.  Chances are that the partition on the new drive is only 500gb and you will need to use a tool such as GParted to resize it to fill the rest of the drive.If in fact the older board WONT handle larger HDD's you still have the option of creating a new partition with the un-used space...Windows will treat it as another drive...use it for storage.There was a ceiling for older BIOS's from AROUND 2001 that could see up to 137GB of a disk. This was because on those systems, the System BIOS would use 28-bits to address all the positions on the disk, allowing the system to address 268,435,456 sectors, with each sector being 512 bytes, this gave a total Disk size of 128GiB, or around 137GB.

Now, technically, if a BIOS used 30-bit addressing, it would top out at addressing around 500GB, however this was not a limitation of any system that I'm aware of, as the 28-bit limitation was itself a holdover from older standards.

I suspect the same as camerongray. When you clone a drive, it creates a partition of the same size on the new drive, so cloning a 500GB to a 1TB drive will create a 500GB partition. With Vista and LATER you can expand the partition into the rest of the disk. More about what BC said. About 14 years ago a new standard was introduced. It was called the 48 bit LBA.
There was even a web site with that name. It has long gone.

The limit was 137 GB, or 127 GB. Therefore it is NOT the problem the OP has.  As noted, the clone program did an exact clone of the drive and kept the size.

You mentioned it got taken care of...care to mention how ? ?

Good evening.
Today I'm here to have a discussion about a issue a friend of mine is actually GETTING, and try to find an resolution.

Basically, in 2009, He bought an laptop, Acer Aspire 5738ZG(sponsored by the Portuguese government, but that's another story)
And until this year, He never needed to use the HDMI output port/device, since He didn't had an LCD(nor do I, Analogic TV's rocks).
Now, that He have one, He can't connect his computer to the LCD TV.

We had installed every driver found in the ACER's website(For the NVIDIA VERSION of this laptop model), the outdated and then the updated drivers(Directly from the officials websites);
Installed Ubuntu 11.10, just to SEE if the linux OS would detected the HDMI output, and it doesn't.

We had reinstalled the Graphics driver several times(The NVIDIA graphics chipset)
And, after some research, We noticed that We can't, AT ALL, install the Intel "VGA" Driver, found in the acer website(Version number:     8.15.10.1892)

The error is always the same, something like: "This computer does not have the required hardware"
So, the driver is for this laptop, and We can't install it in the laptop? It's weird, right?

What I am sure: The LCD TV HDMI ports(2) are good, since I've tested with the 2 laptops I have(Toshiba with a NVIDIA GEFORCE G740M Optimus, and an Asus - X55U, with the AMD VISION E2-1800 APU), and they automatically detected the LCD, and connected to it(Worked on Windows and Ubuntu as well)

What I am not sure about:
Is the HDMI cable not compatible? Heard that there are several versions of the HDMI cables, and some are not compatible with the HDMI output ports, yet, the 2 laptops I have were manufactured in different years, and they can, both, connect to the LCD TV.
Is the HDMI output port "screwed", if so, it's malfunctionating since it was manufactured.

I had noticed that a huge quantity of people can't connect this laptop to the LCD TV correctly, some with the Audio issues(Shows the VIDEO, but do not reproduce any kind of AUDIO)and others have the "HDMI CRASHED", basically, need to plugin the VGA screen, to make the HDMI output work.

I would appreciate some advice to get this laptop working with the LCD TV, since my friend wants to watch the movies He have on the computer on the TV, and He's already tired of blaming my brain off to create a thread requesting for help.

P.S: I will be able to GIVE the required information you need about the LCD TV(It's a LG TV), the computer SPECS, the HDMI cable description, etc., since my area of expertise is software, and not hardware, so I'm not sure what's needed.
Thanks!

Hi,
I have used CLONEHD and have copied all data from the failed disk (SMART error) to the new one. But I don't know what I've got to de next!
I don't have a 'recovery/re-install disk', do I need one?
Also, do I have to do something with the jumpers?...and change things in the SETUP?
I would appreciate any advice!
Thanks in advance, Pete
What's the problem exactly?
Have you already cloned your old disk ONTO a new disk?
And does the new disk work?I'm not familiar with CLONEHDDOpps, hit the wrong key   

I'm not familiar with CLONEHD but if you DID clone the drive then you should just be able to take out the old drive, plug in the new (with the right jumper setting) and fire up the computer.  That's how Acronis True Image works and I've used it multiple times without a hitch 

Alan <&GT;<  Hi, thanks for the responses so far...
The original disk has failed. I BOUGHT a disk with a load pf PC Tools on it, and used the Clone HD software to copy the oriiinal disk's data onto a new disk. This prgram ran for about 4 hours and the progress bar went up to 100%. I don't know if Windows XP was also copied.
I'm unsure of what to do next. I've heard of 'jumpers' but do not know anything about them except they heed to be changed.
Also the system setup needs to be changed, but am not sure to what.
Thanks, Pete
 Just set the jumper on the cloned HDD to master...hook it up at the end of the IDE cable...plug in the molex POWER connector and turn the machine on.

There should be no additional steps neccessary unless drive 1 failed during the clone.

Not sure quite where I should be posting this...but it seems most relevant here.

I'm an architecture student looking for a suitable laptop which is also affordable. Needs to be able to run programs like AutoCad and ArchiCad, which I imagine (with what little computer knowledge I have) are a huge drain on graphics and memory.
The hard drive only needs to be decent as I can buy myself a portable hard drive if/when I need it.
My main focus is just having the right graphics card, RAM etc.

I've been considering the vaio C-25 notebook because it seems more within my price range than the Vaio SZ series, but I'm not really sure if either are ideal.

Any HELP would be greatly appreciated. I'm looking at this site:
http://asia.cnet.com/reviews/notebooks/0,39050488,40176064p,00.htm
Is it the laptop you're considering?
If it is the laptop you're considering, it says here the OS for the laptop is Windows Vista with 512 RAM. I only looked up AutoCad and for it to run on Vista, you need a computer with a minimum RAM of 2GB. The laptop can be upgraded to 2GB RAM Max so the program is balancing out the RAM memory.
If you're going to have a Windows XP Laptop, the RAM memory needed is only 512MB. For a program needing 512MB RAM, i would upgrade to 768 RAM and it would work perfectly.
Otherwise, it's a good laptop.Yes, thankyou, that's just what I was looking for.
Although I was actually using the SONY site:
http://www.sony.com.au/catalog/product.jsp?id=VGNC25GB
I'm not sure, but is the RAM listed there different to the one you looked at?Quote from http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/servlet/index?siteID=123112&id=8446045

Quote

Additional System Requirements for 64-bit AutoCAD

    * Windows XP Professional x64 Edition and Windows Vista 64-bit
    * AMD64 or Intel EM64T processor
    * 1GB RAM, 2GB for Windows Vista 64-bit
    * 750 MB free disk space for installation

Windows Xp is a 32 bit operation system. Windows Vista is a 64 bit operating system.

Im building a computer for my kid as its his birthday soon. The only actual problem i have is the graphics card. I don't know too MUCH about them. I picked out all the other parts fine but i don't know a good card that can max out 720p without going overkill. He has a 720p monitor but i don't want to end up getting a card that can max out 1440p or anything like that. He mostly WANTS to play far cry 4 and battlefield 3 and 4. right now he has an OLD pentium 4 dell optiplex 620. Anyways, thanks if you HELP me [/color]What sort of budget are we talking here, and what's the rest of the specs?http://pcpartpicker.com/p/9b3BYJ
and the budget for the card is around 200-300 at max.I would probably look at the GTX 960 or R9 280X for around $200, would be more than you need for that resolution but leaves you headroom without spending the earth.
I would also advise changing the board to an Asus or Gigabyte model as I wouldn't recommend an Asrock board, getting an SSD (Crucial or Samsung) at least as a boot drive as it'll help greatly with the percieved speed of the system, and either going for the non-K CPU (if you don't want to overclock) or a Z97 chipset board (if you do want to overclock) as the K CPU offers no benefit in a non-Z97 board.  If the K and non-K are the same price then disregard this though.I like the "percieved speed" reference......

Ok, guys.

I have an old computer and I'm planning to upgrade the hardware to use it for testing purposes. I'm planning to buy a second hand Intel CORE 2 Duo E6700, which has a FSB of 1066. Currently, the RAM is a DDR2 800 (2Gb). My question is:

Can I run a DDR2 800 with the Core 2 Duo E6700, which is 1066 or I must get a CPU which is 800 same as my RAM?

Also I am running Windows 32bit.

Thank.Depends on the motherboard, not the cpu.  Are you sure the motherboard supports that cpu?
Bus frequency is 266 MHz. Because the processor uses QUAD Data Rate bus the effective bus speed is 1066 MHz.
Yes, my motherboard is P5KPL-CM and supports up to Core 2 Quad.I agree, i depends of your motherboard. You should change it first but if you don't have money enough then wait a little more to save some

I am buying a laptop and I WOULD like to know out of these four laptops which ONE is the best for daily use, small buisness..streaming and surfing...thank you so much for your time and expertise..

Refurbished:   Dell Latitude E6420 - 2nd Generation i5 2.5GHz - 6gb RAM - 500GB Hard Drive - 14" LCD Screen - Windows 7 Pro 64
  Refurbished: Lenovo ThinkPad T420 - I5-2520 2.5GHz - 4GB RAM - 500gb Hard Drive - Bluetooth - 14" - Win 7 Pro - 1yw
Refurbished:   Lenovo IdeaPad S210 Touch 11.6" Touchscreen Laptop with Intel 3rd Generation Pentium 2127U 1.9Ghz, 4GB DDR3, 500GB HDD, HD ...
Refurbished: Lenovo ThinkPad T420 - I5-2540 2.6GHz - 6GB RAM - 500gb Hard Drive - Webcam - Bluetooth - 14" - Win 7 Pro - 1ywPlease don't post the same question more than once. I deleted the duplicate.If you aren't looking for a high-end GAMING machine, but still would like to be able to stream movies in HD and have notebook capable of multitasking, I'd suggest going for one of toshiba's ultrabooks. I've purchased a Satellite L50 Core i7 and I couldn't be happier.Take it easy, there  are not a lot  of difference between all of them^^

I am in the process of building a new PC. The parts arrived recently and I was ABLE to start assembling today. When it came time to install the CPU, I opened up the socket on the motherboard and removed the plastic cover. What immediately caught my I was that it looked like there was a pin missing. Getting a LED flashlight and a magnifying glass only helped so much. I took a picture with my phone which gave me a better look, but I am still not sure if the pin is missing or just bent. I have attached the image to this post. Is there anything I can do or will I need to get another motherboard?

I bought everything from New Egg. It seems there return policy doesn't ALLOW for damaged sockets.

Specs:
MB: Gigabyte GA-B85M-D3H LGA 1150
CPU: Intel Core i5-4460

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Hard to say. You could try  to contact the company and ask them how you can tell if PART of the socket is damaged. The Intel LGA 1150 is not symmetrical. It has what might seem to be 'missing' places. Is that what your mean?

To see more, click on this:
images of Intel socketLGA155
Does that help?   
I've added a new image with the missing/bent piece circled. To me it looks like there is a pin missing.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]You definitely have a damaged pin there.  Your issue will be trying to prove that you didn't do it as the default stance of any retailer will be that the boards are QC'd by the manufacturer, then ship with a socket protector, so any damage to the socket between the manufacturer and end-user is hugely unlikely.  I can say I've handled thousands of Intel boards and I can remember no more than 3 that came with socket damage out of the box - one socket was absolutely decimated with about half the pins mashed and the socket protector itself was damaged too, the other two had a single bent pin.  So, while it's theoretically possible, it is very unlikely, hence why they take that stance.
You could try your luck with Newegg, or you could contact Gigabyte directly and see if they'll assist.  It's very difficult to see accurately in pictures but if you have a good magnifying glass, you could take a closer look to determine if the pin is bent or totally missing, if it's bent you may be able to FIX it but I would try your luck with Newegg and Gigabyte before attempting it as you do run the risk of making it worse.Okay, thanks for the information. I'll try my luck with New Egg first.

We have a Toshiba laptop that now refuses to boot up. The Toshiba title page comes up, then the screen goes black with a white curser in the top left corner, and it makes a clicking sound somewhere inside. When I press f12 I got:
Built in HDD1 Toshiba MK2035GSS - (S1)
Built in HDD2 Toshiba MK2035GSS - (S3)
CD/DVD HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GSA-T20N-(SM)
LAN


No idea what any of that means. If it's beyond repair, so be it, but would there be any way of getting the documents we haven't backed up.
Cheers in advance.You can use Puppy Linux to try and retrieve your data. See the 2 page link below on how to achieve this.
http://www.winhelp.us/recover-files-using-puppy-linux.html?#.UEmYsJZca0RThanks for a prompt reply.

Also, I forgot to mention that the computer only has power when plugged in, it doesn't seem to be holding power in the battery.If it works without battery as normally it should, you can proceed with the bootable linux disc. If not, then its either the hard drive needs to be put into a USB enclosure (SATA/IDE) and a WORKING computer instead.That sounds more technical than I'm used to. Would I be better off paying a computer repair person to help me?Which method is not clear? If you prefer the second suggestion, see this http://www.insidemylaptop.com/recover-files-from-broken-laptop/They both sound technical to someone like me! 

Someone we know has one of those devices you mentioned where you remove the drive and put it  in the device and connect it to another computer. Is this basically changing it from an internal drive to an external drive? Would the software still be there along with documents?

Update: I pressed F12 and SELECTED Hdd2 and it said:
PXE-E61: Media test failure, check cable
PXE-m0F: Exiting PXE ROM

And just repeats the same thing over and over.
Yes...all apps and data will be there connected externally....you cannot however boot to Windows that way...but you can retrieve your data.
As far as the other issue i'd replace your CMOS battery....Part# CR2032...available anywhere.
NOTE: Remove all power to do so.Cheers for the info. Hi Steve

you didn't say what Toshiba model laptop you have the problem with. I would recommend you take it to a computer tech that Knows how the 2 drives are setup in your laptop. It's not just a matter of treating each drive individually they need to be kept together as a set.
My experience with Toshiba hard drives is when they  fail as 1 of yours has the longer you keep trying things the greater the damage and the less likely someone will have of getting the data back.
Sorry for being the messenger  of all this doom and gloom.Thanks Lisa, all info is helpful - EVEN if it's BAD news!
It's a Toshiba P100 (I think) and it's pretty old in computer years (do they AGE like dogs? I've no idea). I'm still hoping that it's a simple battery replacement thing, but knowing my luck...

We're going to get in touch with a proper tech person I think, because I'm no good at this stuff, it's like watching a monkey trying to make a long distance telephone call.

Cheers.New problem. The old one was solved by a tech person. New problem is similar in that it won't boot up, but doesn't show any writing just a black screen.

I am running xp, have not added or deleted any programs. I unglugged the ps2 ball mouse, and plugged in a different one. Now, neither works. I have tried both mice on a different computer, and they both work. I rebooted. Should I try it in safe mode? ThanksWell, it can't hurt to try. I don't have any real suggestions, the only thing I can think of is maybe you busted the USB port. My friend did that to his brand new laptop and had to sell it for a $200 loss.Dis you disconnect it through Windows or just pull it out?Did you turn the computer off before removing the mouse?

Alan <><  hummer .....  Could you please clarify that you were using a PS2 mouse and not a USB mouse......  It sounds like you are using a USB ...... Quote

I unglugged the ps2 ball mouse, and plugged in a different one.

Have you verified that both of these devices work by trying them on another computer?

LOL...... Touche...... CBMatt.......

Quote

Have you verified that both of these devices work by trying them on another computer?

.....  LOL ...now it's my turn.......
In his original post...... He writes ........
I have tried both mice on a different computer, and they both work.


dl65 

I'm sexist, so I automatically assume everyone is male.

Almost done buying all the components for my 1st build.
I have an Samsung 850 pro (512gb) SSD.  I will run my operating system ( Win. 7) and programs from here.

The HDD are for storing files.  We take a ton of photos and HD videos of our kids.  In 1 year I went from 0-500gb on files.  So now I am going big.  I would love to run RAID 1 as a back-up.  I will have an external HD.  But I would feel more comfortable with some more security as a backup if something were to happen.

If I run a RAID1 on 2 4tb HDD, this is kind of a safety net if something were to happen to 1 of the drives, correct?

Is there any NEGATIVE to running 2  4tb HDD in RAID1?
Can Wndows 7 functional with 2  4tb HDD in RAID1?  I thought I read somewhere Windows 7 limits you to 2.7tb?

Thanks everyone.RAID will work fine as you described however remember RAID is not backup.

RAID protects against hardware failure which is great, but if you accidentally delete a file or experience some sort of virus or corruption, the file will be affected on both drives.  The best combination for total safety would be RAID as well as frequent backups of important files. Quote

If I run a RAID1 on 2 4tb HDD, this is kind of a safety net if something were to happen to 1 of the drives, correct?

This one's going to be very vague and I honestly wouldn't know what information to give. I'm hoping someone else will have asked himself the same question and found an answer or knows a bit more;

When I switch between Windows and any full screen application the humming noise ceases and starts again as soon as either pop up.

I only have two fans installed, a CPU fan (Which does not make any noise) and a PSU fan (Which seems to generate this hum). It's a Zalman 460 Watt 'ultra-silent' so I'm guessing it has to do something with it detecting a CHANGE in power requirements or heat build-up and that causes it to CEASE for a moment and then switch back on (The hum, that is..) so I'm guessing it is the fan.

The other two things that could make noise are two 7200RPM HDD's that are about 1 1/2 YEARS of age. They're silenced by using a Zalman HDD cooler, though.

So, any thoughts?



Any thoughts.....well....

Put your ear next to each fan/hdd and see what's causing the noise? Then post back what is causing the noise and we might be able to give ways to silence it.Like I said, it is the PSU fan. I don't need any ways to silence my machine, I'm curious if anyone happens to know what could make the humming noise cease while switching between full-screen applications and Windows... This is a job for Fed, the electrician.  Do you have Q-Fan or not-so-Smart Fan and if so, have you tried disabling it ?Like I said, it's my PSU which acts on temperature change. I was only curious what could CAUSE it to suddenly drop the noise when switching between applications. It is not a problem because if it was, it'd be solved by now, but nevermind.

Hello again to all,
 I'm still having computer problems, so I'm asking for any help. I'm sorry, but this isn't going to be a very short post. I want to be as detailed as possible about what's going on. It all started about a month ago. Suddenly, my computer wouldn't come on/boot. Whenever I pressed the Power button on the front, the blue light around the power button came on & stayed on(as usual), all the fans would come on & stay on but, the little amber "Hard DRIVE Accessed" light wasn't coming on, or flickering like it usually does, & there's nothing at all on the monitor. At first I could unplug it for about 5-10mins, then it would come back on. Although, it also started coming on by itself when I plugged it back up, without me even touching the power button, which it never done before.


I could restart it with the power button but, I got the same result. I kept trying & trying, & finally after about 5-10 restarts, it would come on & boot up fine, & run fine. So, while I was trying to find a solution, I would keep restarting it like that, & it usually would come on. I talked to eMachines Tech Support & tried every suggestion that they gave me, but to no avail. About a week later, after I finally got it to come on, suddenly everything on the monitor screen just froze, mouse & all. So, I shut it down with the power button again to try & restart it, but this time I haven't ever gotten it to come back on. I've tried & tried like before to restart it, but to no avail. It still does the same thing. The blue power button LED light comes on, all fans are running, the amber HD light's not on, but I can hear & feel the HD spinning up.


I've removed the CASING & could find no loose or burnt wires or connections, or no visible burn marks on the MoBo. I've unhooked everything from the MoBo & reinsatalled everything one at a time & nothing. I've also replaced the PSU, HD, Modem Card, Memory, & Video Card & still nothing. There was only one difference that I seemed to make. Like I have already stated, the amber HD light does not come on. However, there's a 4 PIN plug running from the PSU to the MoBo that has 2 yellow & 2 black wires, & where it connects to the MoBo it says ATX 12V. If I unplug this connector, the amber HD light comes on & stays on, but the HD doesn't spin or anything & nothing on the monitor. Ok now, last week I ordered a new Motherboard. I got a ABIT KV-85 v2.0 754 Socket. I installed it, TRIPLE checked all connections etc., still I got the exact same result. I thought that maybe it could be the Power Supply Unit, so I bought another one. I got an ANTEC 500WATT PSU, still the same result.


So, then I thought maybe my processor was bad. So I ordered a new one, same AMD Sempron 3300+ as I already had. Installed it /with new Thermal Compound & Heatsink/Fan, & still the same result. I took out the new processor & reinstalled in old MoBo, still the same thing. Also, with the new MoBo, since I've installed the new processor, when I press the power button & turn it on the amber HD Accessed light comes on & stays on & the HD is spinning up, but still nothing on the monitor. I have also tried using a different monitor, same result. Also for some reason it will now shut completely off by itself after about 30-40 seconds. I am completely LOST & about to pull my hair out ! Any help to resolve this problem will be most graciously appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to read this also. Thank You ! Are you using the onboard graphics with this motherboard or have you installed an AGP card?  I'm not even going to try to read that post.   I suggest you edit your post and break it up into paragraphs to make it more readable.4 PIN plug running from the PSU  << make sure that is plugged in * 

I would do what Allan ( Ale ) always says at this point.
mobo
1 stick of ram
cpu + fan & heatsink
mouse + keyboard
graphics card , Monitor
then plug in the power supply and turn on, what happens ?

I would do what soybean suggested. That makes my eyes hurt.   Ow!! 

Alan <><  i did take an  'alleve" after that  read!!    < does that qualify in the word game ?

well i had to shut down my power to my house, so that someone could come in a put a new light switch in my house. well i turn on my power switch and then come back inside and turn on both of my computers and only this ONE works while the other doesnt. the monitor is working on the other computer. someone told me that it could be my power supply in my CPU and i should try disconnecting something from the motherboard and put a paper clip near it and see if the fan works. could someone give me a better detail on what to do, or give me advice on what could be the PROBLEM. it is an e-machine by the way. thanks a lot  I highly doubt putting a paperclip "near it" will fix it.
... and if it does, you may have found a niche in the market

please give as much detail as possible about your system... CPU, RAM, etc...its an emachine 40gb, 256k mb. i dont know what else you want me to put, just let me know. oh and the paper clip thing was to figure out the problem not to fix it, haha. sorry if my wording was hard to understandA model number and age of the machine would be helpful. eMachines have notoriously poor power supplies and can also TAKE out other components when they fail. Was the computer running when the power was shut off? Other previous problems?

Hey, This is how it all started

I was working on some documents of mine, suddenly I heard this explosion within my computer, and my computer was turned off right at that second. Now i don't know what to do, my monitor, printer etc everything is workin EXCEPT my CPU. I checked the motherboard, usually I see a green light whether the computer is turned on or off but plugged in. Can it be the power supply? I've had some troubles with the power supply in the past but eventually it started behaving.

Thanks for all the helpSounds like a power surge blew up your computer......
Check you're motherboard CAREFULLY for anything odd like leakages or deformed componants.
Also check your power supply and socket.Replace that PSu.

Don't buy a cheap one.

Hopefully you'll get lucky and it hasn't taken out your CPU.An explosion within your CPU? Do you know what a CPU is? Wow, a big explosion INSIDE of a tiny chip.  im not a computer EXPERT here, but i meant i heard an explosion within my tower.Is it possible you can take a picture of it and post it here?How do you take a picture of a sound?

It does seem to be a power supply gone bad, probably taking other THINGS with it, but you won't know until you replace it. What was the make and wattage of the PSU? Quote

How do you take a picture of a sound?

Hello, I'm having a terribly frustrating problem with my hard DRIVE, hopefully someone has encountered something like this before-
Approximately 2-3 weeks ago, my 30 GB C drive decided to start "filling up" to the point that the computer tells me I'm dangerously low on disk space. I run disk cleanup constantly, I delete all my cookies/internet files, and I've removed every last superfluous program from the drive. I'll free up space, only to have it fill back up in a few hours. Previous to this problem, my drive was only a third full.
I can't defrag the drive because of insufficient space, scanning for errors/viruses/etc brings up nothing. I have a "fake" copy of XP installed on my system. I haven't downloaded or installed any new software that would account for a sudden change. A friend suggested that my hard drive is just getting old; I have had this drive for atleast 2 years now.
Thanks in advance!!A few suggestions:
1) Turn off system restore, then turn it back on again if you still want it. This will delete all the old restore points, freeing up a lot of space.
2) GO Start>Run and type "%temp%" without the quotation marks. You can try and delete everything in here, which is generally pretty safe. Anything it needs should still be running, and therefore won't let you delete it.
3) Download some cleaning programs off the net that search for REDUNDANT files, and clear the registry of redundant entries.

By a "fake" copy of XP, do you mean you have a pirated version installed?Yeah, I have a pirated copy of XP.  I did as you suggested, save for clearing the registry- how do I do that?  I will look online for some cleaning programs. As of yet, after DELETING the temp files and turning off system restore, no space has cleared up...should I compress the disk?
Well, to start, I would really advise a proper copy of XP, cause that could be the problem to start with. You can compress the disk, but suffer a loss of speed for it. Clearing the registry generally comes with programs that clear the redundant memory as well. Some such programs include:
Registry Medic (registry only)
Registry Mechanic (registry only)
Ashampoo WinOptimizer (memory and registry)

I would advise using a memory clearer and a separate registry cleaning program, as they generally are better when they specialise in one particular area. Ashampoo has always been a good one for me and others in terms of the memory. Let me know how it goes.I downloaded the trial versions of those programs and it totally worked! 20 GB fully restored.
THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH. I was ready to go drop a bunch of money on a new hard drive. 
Any suggestions as to what would have caused such a crazy buildup like that, so I can avoid it in the future?No problems Glad I could help. The only real way this could have BUILT up is you've either had this hard drive for a long time (in which case it's all collected), or you've run or installed a lot of programs that don't delete their temporary files, so they all build up. My advice would be to do a clean like this once a month or so in order to make sure it doesn't keep building up. Check out somewhere like http://portable-apps.subiectiv.com/   and download one of there AIO tweaking collections, because these often contain free cleaners so you aren't stuck with trial versions forever. Good luck in the future. Quote from: phoenix910 on April 23, 2007, 08:43:52 PM

Well, to start, I would really advise a proper copy of XP, cause that could be the problem to start with.

What do I need to play karaoke from my computer. I have the cds, and the software. I would like to just point and click from the computer hard drive. How do I GET stereo sound from the computer, and what kind of hardware do I need to plug in the mics? Since you provided absolutely NO information about your computer hardware it would be impossible to say.Sorry, I have an intel celeron 1.3 GHz processor, 512 mb pc100 SDram, 80 gig hard drive, ac97 audio. Is this enough? If not, what else. I know the computer will play the cds and enough disc SPACE to get me started.
ThanksI gather you're using onboard sound now.  Right?  Does your computer have a mic jack on back?  If not, you'll need to install a sound card that supports a mic.

I've never used a computer for karaoke, so I'm not sure exactly how you need to set that up.  Do you basically want to set this up so that you sing into the mics and listen via your computer speakers?  And, record at the same time?

You mentioned "mics" (plural) and stereo.  I guess you'll need to look for a sound card that has dual mic inputs.  Such cards, if available, are probably going to be at the high end of the price spectrum for sound cards.  I don't know whether such cards are available. Quote from: soybean on April 18, 2007, 01:12:56 PM

You mentioned "mics" (plural) and stereo.  I guess you'll need to look for a sound card that has dual mic inputs.  Such cards, if available, are probably going to be at the high end of the price spectrum for sound cards.  I don't know whether such cards are available.

Hello, i have a very interesting development.  This COMPUTER wont boot unless you OPEN the CD drive.

He has an MSI motherboard and it does on its POST a test for its drives.  The only way to get the computer to boot is to open the CD drive, and wait for the computer to boot.  He has had this issue before, and what we did to fix it was change the boot order so the HDD was first.  I re-tried that but to no avail.  Any help WOULD be APPRECIATED.  Replace/disconnect the CD-ROM driveYea we fixed it,  we had to unplug the power to the drive, and then run the comp and then turn it off and plug it back in.  Dunno what happened thanks anywayOdd. If it happens again, you should look into replacing it before something breaks.

This started happening a few DAYS ago but now the computer won't even boot the BIOS.

• It started with a broken keyboard. Bought a cheap one at Wal-mart and everything was okay.
• The next day random restarts start occurring.
• Restarts kept occurring until I turned of the computer last night. I then tried to turn it back on and found that the bios wasn't booting. The monitor wasn't picking up a signal so I tried it on another computer and it worked fine. Tried a different monitor on the nonresponding computer and same problem.
  

You will need to supply alot more info to prevent this from becoming a guessing game...

Sorry posted on accident while I was typing. Added the rest. Nice to get a quick reply though.

Am trying to install a pci MODEM in an older system.   The modem is not detected in P and P or using Install New Hardware.   When using the latter it SEARCHES for new hardware, doesn't find any and when the modem is selected from the list the only options are to connect to Com1 or Com2 from where the modem cannot be accessed.

After setting a modem on Com1 or Com2 and trying to connect, the displayed message is "Could not detect modem. It may be in use, turned off, or not INSTALLED properly."

So far have tried two Dynalink modems 1456vqh-R and 1456vqh-R1 with the appropriate Win.98 drivers downloaded from the Dynalink site.

I have tried to install the modems on two individual pc's, both elderly but otherwise performing well.   

The P.II pc had a pci modem reportedly working well until the hdd had to be replaced, reformatted etc..

Specs of both pc's are attached.

Any IDEAS where I'm going wrong please?

Thanks

[old attachment deleted by admin]Problem resolved.

Not sure but think that the pinning on the Dynalink modems does not suit the pci slots.   Got another modem with more PINS and it works just fine.

Thanks to all who read my post.

People of Hope

I have an issue I hope you can help me with.  I have a laptop which was running Windows 98.  I say was, because due to the SYSTEM becoming slow I decided to format the hard drive.  I followed the reinstallation procedure.

The laptop has an external USB CDROM drive, which was reading OK prior to the format, this is where I need the help.  At the moment I have the laptop booting up from the floppy drive, I cannot SEEM to get the laptop to see my CDROM drive to REINSTALL Windows 98.  I have used the generic OAKCDROM drivers, which come with the standard MS_DOS floppy boot files, which failed.  So I’ve tried using the actual drivers (TEACCD-224E) for the device and modifying the Autoexec.bat and Config.sys files but during boot up the system does not see the drive.  It says 'device not found', even though the drive is plugged in and powered up.

I have downloaded some help files and followed instructions in order for the laptop to see the CDROM during boot up, but as yet I'm still hitting a wall.

Until I can get the system to see the CDROM device, I'm stuck.  Do you have any ideas?

Regards

JuiceThe good news is yes this can be done...the other good news is it sounds like you are relatively comfortable with editing config and autoexec files....

Travel Here  and follow Method #3. There is a download link at the beginning of the instructions which will need to be added to your Win98 bootdisk called dat.exe. Double clik it with the Win98 floppy in and it will add the necessary drivers.

Then review the autoexec and config files on the floppy before trying it and make SURE they match the listing in Method #3.

You should be good to go...

p.s. Make an EXTRA Win98 bootdisk in case it doesn't go right the first time.

been experiencing an issue for a certain amount of months now, sent one computer back after brand new PURCHASE and got a second, same issue.

The issue is when i boot to the desktop, before loading the icons and interface, system hangs there for about 2-4 minutes before it finally kicks in, this only happens when my ethernet cord is plugged into my network card.

if i unplug it before i turn the computer on this doesnt happen, or if i disable the realtek network card this doesnt happen, i got a network card that came with my dsl. happens in this as well.

not sure if theres anything i can do, tech support dont know jack as usual


i have sbc yahoo dsl, running windows xp home edition.

anyone got any clues to what it might be?

Details about the machine could be helpful. 

Is it still under warranty?yeah still under warranty.

pent 4 processor, 512 of ram.

compaq PRESARIO sr1930nx

200 gig hd

device manager looks fine.

start menu is near empty.'

works fine when i dont have the NET cord in, driver is up to date.

problem has been going on for about six months.

sent one computer back already and they replaced it, still the same issue, still only when internet connection is active. called them, they dont know anything and cant figure it outSounds LIKE a DHCP and/or DNS configuration problem. Does your modem DISCONNECT and loose its IP address when you shut down? If so, windows must wait for it to reconnect before acquiring the IP and DNS server addresses. Quote from: 2k_dummy on April 23, 2007, 11:38:56 AM

Sounds like a DHCP and/or DNS configuration problem. Does your modem disconnect and loose its IP address when you shut down? If so, windows must wait for it to reconnect before acquiring the IP and DNS server addresses.

I've had some recent problems with my computer and I'm at a loss of what to do. It started a few weeks ago when I started getting blurry and distorted wavy lines on my monitor. I figured it was the monitor so I tried a friends out on it, and it still did the same thing. It seems to get worse when I play FINAL Fantasy XI or other games so I started thinking it was the Graphics card. I've looked all over the net and tried changing my refresh rate from 75 to 60 and it fixed it for a day then the 60 started getting blurry. I can't even put it back to 75 now. Furthermore, once it gets worse where I'm almost unable to concentrate, I just shut my PC down. Another problem started occuring where my PC has problems booting up. The tower starts up but the monitor displays nothing and only says its in Power Save mode. COULD this be the graphics card on its last legs or what? I don't want to shell out $200 for a card and not have it fix my problem. BTW my PC is a:

Dell XPS400
nVidia GeForce 6800 256
70GB
2.8 Ghz

I also have a SIMPLE Dell 19inch monitor LCD if that helps. I've seen a few other threads with people who have had a similar problem. My computer is only a year and a half old too.

I've waited to fix it because of finals from college, but now that finals are over, I want to get back to playing my games! Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks :3Check your temps, sounds like a heat problem to me.
It could also be a driver problem, try updating to the latest drivers.
Does this happen only in games?  i.e. only when the graphics card is being pushed?I thought it was a heat problem too but now theres lines all the time. However they do get worse the longer the PC is running or when I play a game. I did update all my drivers and that didn't work. :/What are your temperatures?GPU is usally around 59-69ish. its at about 61 atm. That's fine, nothing to worry about.
Open the CASE and clean all the fans (whilst the PC is off, and observe ESD precautions)
It definitely sounds like heat, or a failing card.Yeah, I took it apart and cleaned out the fans and even took out the card to reset it, figuring maybe it was loose, but neither worked. What do you mean ESD?ESD.
If you've already done that, I wouldn't worry - if the problem didn't get worse, you probably didn't fry anything.
Bear it in mind next time though.
In that case, it sounds like a failing card to me.
Maybe someone else has some ideas that could help, but I'm all out, sorry.Ok well thanks for your input, I'm still 99% sure its the card. Although could a failing card cause me to have these monitor bootup problems? Other threads say it could be power supply causing that.Yes, a failing card could cause that.
It could also be the PSU, that's something I hadn't thought of.I don't know much about PSU, any way I can verify if its the card or Power Supply? ;; I think the best way is to simply test someone elses card in my PC if I can find someone near me from college. Don't know how to test PSU though.

I can't save documents to my d-drive. What software or what hardware do I need to download or install? I can view things from the d-drive and download from the d- drive, I just can't download to it. I have a Windows Millennuim Edition E-machines computer. D-drive is the CD-ROM. I can not figure out how to change the read only memory to write to it. I can on the other computer in the house. It is a GATEWAY Millennium Edition. It uses Adaptec CD wizard to write to the D-drive. Mine has nothing. Help

The reason I am not using the correct jargon is I DON'T KNOW WHAT IT IS!!!!!! IF I KNEW THAT I WOULD NOT HAVE THE PROBLEM & I COULD FIX IT MYSELF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Some details would be required like what is the D Drive? Another hard drive?

Actually any information at all about your system would be required. See below.Download from D-drive? Unless it is a network drive, you're using the wrong jargon. Please correct your message. I believe there is a good CHANCE that the drive D: in question is just a cd-rom.......and is not able to be written to ........ the drive would have to be a cd-rw to do this. The other machine that will write to drive D: .... must have a D: that is  cd-rw or a dvd-rw drive.


dl65  Raptor's signature has been reported to the moderating team.

Mayls, Although the sig in question does have a taste of attitude, he is not directly insulting anybody. (His message, which is to know what you are SAYING when you use computer terms, is true and appropriate.)

If Raptor is willing to re-word his signature, he can. However, I do not ask him to do this. It's up to him.So I take it this is a warning that I should change my signature? You're right.

Quote

The reason I am not using the correct jargon is I DON'T KNOW WHAT IT IS!!!!!! IF I KNEW THAT I WOULD NOT HAVE THE PROBLEM & I COULD FIX IT MYSELF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Raptor's signature has been reported to the moderating team.

If Raptor is willing to re-word his signature, he can. However, I do not ask him to do this. It's up to him.

I wondered why raptor's signature had changed.I really
liked it.

Of course,mine could not be directed at anyone.

clicking sounds like a NEW page is being openedInteresting...Highly curious. Inquiring minds WOULD like to know.....some details. See below.Yes please post more information like in GX1_Man's sig.

Could you MEAN the clicking sound like the sound attatched (it's in a zipped file):

[old attachment deleted by admin]Hi,
New to these forums  ...

If this clicking sound is in IE7 when browsing, I have had this problem, usually when going to my hotmail inbox. Easiest way I found, although POSSIBLY only a temporary fix, is to clear the Temporary Internet Files...

Apologies if this is unrelated but it sounds like what I experienced.And now tyshe has apparently been ABDUCTED by aliens as well.....Those little green men from the big red planet must be hiding on the backside of the moon. Why do we even care?

Oh wait, I don't.

Which PC would you recommend for me as my budget is from £350-£500(At a push) I will use for college work and also some PC games?
I don't mind getting an all in one PC or just a good tower and monitor etc. separately.
What would you recommend?Will you be building this, or buying it prebuilt?  What sort of gaming are you planning on doing - anything intensive?I don't recommand you a new pc because you need to spend more money to get a gaming computer... How old is yours? Maybe you can replace some part of your computer instead or you should wait to save more money if you want a decent gaming computer.Build it yourself mate, this is an example build http://pcpartpicker.com/p/yspYt6, try to get something like this and if it costs to much where you live, change the GPU to an amd r9 280 Quote from: verystrengt on March 14, 2015, 01:44:30 PM

Build it yourself mate, this is an example build http://pcpartpicker.com/p/yspYt6, try to get something like this and if it costs to much where you live, change the GPU to an amd r9 280

Significantly over budget once you include an operating system and as it is you would want to swap that build to have dual channel memory and a motherboard that supports features that have been commonplace for the last several years (Native USB 3.0, SATAIII).

Any advice appreciated
Last week i downloaded skype and added a webcam,both are working fine,but what i have noticed is on start up i get a double bleep when the webcam is connected instead of one, and also on shutdown i have to shutdown twice before the computer switches off,
When the webcam is not connected everything is a normal, is there a problem.
Skyblue
Perhaps the webcam is faulty, inspect the USB connector. If no abnormalities are found, plug it into another slot and see if it STILL HAPPENS.. If it does, perhaps you should bring it back to the vendor and ask for a replacement. If that doesn't work, at LEAST uninstall and reinstall the software before taking it back.

Hoop2077Thanks for your help tried the reinstall didnt help so i went for the first option and took it back.
But now i find i cant get the the sound to work on skype or media player,reistall again a few times also upgraded drivers from sis still no joy.
When i make a test call on skype there is no play back,but yet the micophone works on the laptop,so i know its not the microphone,by the way it works fine on the laptop but not my base computer.
I have attached my everest report for you to advise
Skyblue


[old attachment deleted by admin]No sound is muted? What drivers did you install for the soundcard? Does the device manager report any errors? Quote

No sound is muted?

What drivers did you install for the soundcard?

Does the device manager report any errors?

There are no soundcard drivers on webcam CD's.

Download and run Everest Home, have it make a report and learn EVERYTHING about your hardware:

I really havent a clue what you are asking me ,
how will i find out what kind of sound card i have,where will i find the name?
what motherboard cd??. my knowledge on these things is very limited
Skyblue

Have you installed the above software? It is required for your PC to detect the soundcard. You seem to have a SiS 7012 soundcard, which is onboard.

Is it detected in the device manager? If there is a question /exclamation mark next to it or if there is an undetected audio device you should uninstall those entries and install these drivers.

Thank you in advance for your help.
I’m running XP home edition ver.2002 w/Spack2. I have HP710 for printer. Tried to update the HP software witch I have to remove previous VERSION, Window froze up PRIOR to complete de-install; now I can’t install NEW.
   HP software INDICATES that I need to de-install previous version.
   XP Indicates “Unable to locate the installation log file’C:\program
      files\etc\etc\700\uninst.isu’. Uninstallation will not continu.
I’m stuck-- What do I need to do to get out of this mess?.

How did you de-install it ? ?
Were you using Add/Remove programs ? ?

Do you still have internet access ? ?
If so check HP's site for an uninstaller utility. Their software is fairly bloated and writes itself to a lot of places. A manual uninstall will take some doing.

You could also DLoad and install CCleaner and see if it will remove the remnants...

i've got a webcam from singapore about a year ago, know nothing about what model etc, but now my sister is ordering me to install it on her computer, after ruining the installation disks. is there anyway that i can fix that?

p.s.    sorry if this is the wrong subject and it needs to go under drivers, it just seemed right to me because it is about a hard ware problem that i am  having

thank you for all help given, wether it works or not Just type the serial number or name in Google + drivers and you'll be fine. well see, there's a problem with that. i got it about a year ago and threw the box out, and it says nothing on the actual webcam, and the installation cd only says

PC CAMERA
Installation Disk

Installation:
Insert this CD into CD-ROM drive
and follow on-screen instructionsTry the following:

• Hook it up and see if Windows Update can find any drivers for it (Use the 'advanced' search)
• Hook it up and see if System Information for Windows (Click) can find the name of the webcam for you. You'll need to do some digging, though.
  

well see, there's a problem with that. i got it about a year ago and threw the box out, and it says nothing on the actual webcam, and the installation cd only says

PC CAMERA
Installation Disk

Installation:
Insert this CD into CD-ROM drive
and follow on-screen instructions

after ruining the installation disks

chris? as ruined, i don't mean scratched or broken..i mean that one has music and nothing else and the other has nothing at all......when i say ruined i mean ruined

Odd...  Did these CD's ever work? Unforutunately, there aren't any universal webcams drivers (there's one I know of for Mac, but it's specific to about three or four brands...which isn't very universal)

computer......  Unplug the Web Cams usb cable from the rear of the tower and look to see if there is a paper tag right near the USB connector .......
Many of those webCams put the make and model number on a tag there.


dl65 

You might be ahead to get a proper web cam, hopefully with a recognizable brand and possibly even some support for it. This appears a fruitless endeavor.

Background:

1.  1st build.

2.  3 mos. ago minimal computer knowledge.  Went from learning what wi-fi and Bluetooth is  ---> challenging myself to do a build.

3..  Will be basic home PC.  Mainly file ( pic and home video storage ), with possible gaming.  Nothing crazy....?


What I have so far:

i7 4790k

gigabyte Z97X gaming 3 mobo

Noctua NH-D14 fan/heat sink

Crucial Ballistix ( sport) 16gb RAM  - 2 x 8GB sticks

Corsair AX 750 PSU

LG Blu-Ray internal OPTICAL drive w/ burner and BDXL

Samsung 500gb 850 PRO SSD

Internal card reader (don't laugh)

Corsair 760T case


What I still need to get:

HDD - for file storage

Another larger External HD

OS _ Leaning towards Win 7.  We have 8.1 -HATE it!!!

Will more then likely upgrading my exhaust fan

Would like to add an additional fan on TOP or underneath HDD  or HDD cooler case/fan

GPU-  Want to run 3 monitors.  Nothing crazy like 4k or too insanely expensive.  Mainly because we have lots of windows open ( online ) a time.  Do not intend to game with 3 monitors ( if I even game...?)


_______________________________


So I want to put the most reliable, least amount of failure HDD in.  Would like to go with as much gb storage as possible.  ( Even though it will be backed up on an external HD).  Not sure if I am GOING to RAID1 as an additional HDD in case 1 fails.


After doing mainy searches and reviews.  It sounds like the 4gb HGST got some great reviews.


http://www.ryli.net/the-best-and-fastest-hard-disk-drive-hdd/


http://www.storagereview.com/best_drives


https://www.backblaze.com/blog/best-hard-drive/


Thanks everyone.

Would like to keep this as simple as possible.  Nothing insanely expensive.  Would like to keep $200 or less per HDD.
If you want your data to be safe from hardware failure, I'd look into using a RAID setup such as RAID 1 Mirror having 2 drives that store the same files so if one of them dies you still have your data on the other as a mirror copy to use.

Only draw back to this is that it doesnt protect you from an infection hitting both drives etc so if data gets corrupt as a result of malware etc, it will be on both drives.

If not going with RAID 1 Mirror, I'd just have an external that is as BIG as you need to store the data you have as a backup copy of it and this way if you got hit with a virus etc, hopefully you would know your infected before attaching the external and so you dont infect your backup and can clean up the damage and restore from backup etc.

I have a Hitachi Deskstar drive from 2004 that keeps chugging along, a 164.7GB SATA 1 drive that I use for video processing. It was a top of the line drive 11 years ago, but today its slow in comparison but its working flawlessly.

I got 500MHz Intel PROC. and nvidia riva tnt2 vanta 16 MB graphic card but my XPsevicepack2 recognizes it as vanta/vanta LT. And my SCREEN is making dots and scratches on it and then GET blocked at all.Your other post

Are you playing a game with us? I would swap out that VIDEO card ...And delete the other post.

When I insert a new cartridge it prints as an old one (3/4 of text is blank). "clean nozzles" and "align to fix blurry EDGES" do not help. The printer never had PROBLEMS before with any cartridge. How to solve the PROBLEM ?

THANK you very muchTry a new cartridge. Or contact the vendor of TIPS about cleaning the print heard.
Here is a video. Maybe it can help. It  worked for me sometimes.
How To Clean Printheads

Hi,
I have Windows 7 Ultimate. OS is on C: 128GB Micron SSD drive, the rest (programs, music, files...) on 1TB HDD D:. Over the time I notices that C: is getting filled rapidly.
Right now windows explorer shows 22.5GB free of 119GB (I know that 119 visible out of 128 is OK), but when I go to C, enable "Show hidden files, folders, and drives", uncheck "Hide protected operating system files", do a select all/properties, it's just 52.5GB there. Where is that 44GB? 22.5+52.5=75≠119.
Please don't tell me about those hibernation or page files. when I say select all, those are included.

Thanks
Actually I'm not sure if I'm posting in right category. Admins, please let me know if not.Download install and run TreeSize...Free...
Post a screen cap of what it shows.Please see attached

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]You can empty Recycle Bin...
I'd also set your System Recovery to save only the most recent Restore point....those are why System Volume Info is so large...you can remove old Restore Points via Control Panel/Admin.
Save only the 2 most recent.

The last folder is 5+G...with only a few files...movies perhaps ? ?...those can be moved to your secondary HDD as well.Oo, I see now. Thanks.
I didn't notice that TreeSize shows some 46GB of data in  System Volume information, whereas Windows shows it 0. I couldn't figure it out what do you mean saying Control Panel/Admin. What I did is reduced MAX Usage to 10% instead of 50% and  deleted all restore points by clicking on Delete in System PROTECTION configuration for C drive. Created a new Restore point (just in case) afterwards. This must be what was meant, huh?
>The last folder is 5+G< which one?I have no idea whats in the last folder,,,you will have to figure that out...I can't figure out which one do you mean by saying the last folder. Do you mean that 13.4GB [5 Files]?Yes...That's not a folder, it's those 5 files in root directory, bootmgr, BOOTSECT.BAK, hiberfil.sys, pagefile.sys, SVOAY, and hiberfil.sys, pagefile.sys are the ones that are large. Actually any idea what SVOAY is? Although whatever it was, just deleted it along with  BOOTSECT.BAK looks like with no affect on system's operability. Restarted Windows a couple of times afterwards. Seems like everything is OK so far.OK...leave that one where it is.Oops, didn't notice you response, sorry, just modified my message, which is I deleted it. Didn't have to?Those files will be automatically be re-created by Windows...Not as of yet. What's that SVOAY anyways. If I have a rough idea what BOOTSECT.BAK is, I couldn't find anything about SVOAY.

By the way thank you so much for your support.No problem...Welcome Aboard BTW...
It's likely a system file from the MANUFACTURER...a google search says it's a yearly report by the Dept. of the Navy... ...What Dept. of Navy...?
I'm not a native speaker, so may be I'm missing the wit.

I posted this in Viruses but I guess I should have been here with you learned folks. I have always heard that if you run your home network through a wireless router you don't need a firewall because the router is an automatic firewall. Is this true and is it safe to turn off all firewalls, winxp and NORTON in my case. Thanksdhinds ......
Quote

don't need a firewall because the router is an automatic firewal

I posted this in Viruses but I guess I should have been here with you learned folks. I have always heard that if you run your home network through a wireless router you don't need a firewall because the router is an automatic firewall. Is this true and is it safe to turn off all firewalls, winxp and norton in my case. Thanks

Hello! My laptop has stopped booting up. let me go back about a year ago, to when it still worked. I dropped it, and broke the SCREEN, and like anyone else, hooked up a monitor. I used it like that for a couple MONTHS, only a couple times though. It eventually had trouble turning on. It would show the charging lights and stuff, and sometimes turn on, other times it would sit there and not display anything(on the monitor). I had to turn it off and back on again and again, hoping it would boot up. Now, it never boots up. I don't think there is a charger PROBLEM. I wondered if it was the hard drive, and hooked it up to my pc. It displayed an error, and wouldn't start, so I started in safe mode. it worked, but you can't do anything, really, in safe mode(ps can I wipe it in safe mode without removing windows?). I don't know if there is a short circuit or anything. Please help me!
Info:
laptop: Sony vaio VGN CS220j
OS: Windows 7
please ask for any pictures or info
thank you!Is your power CORDS is in working condition because this is generally happens with loss of power supply.Im not sure if the cord is broken, but i know the charger plugin is cracked. It has been used like that before though.