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Hi.. i got a problem and I've been checking online to find a solution to this problem and I haven't been able to. There is a high PITCH hum coming from my computer, and it also flows through my speakers so the higher the volume, the higher the high pitch sound gets.. and its GIVING me a headache. I unplugged the videocard/moniter and speakers yet the hum sound is still there. Even when i shut down my computer, I can still hear it, and when I unplug the cable from the power box to my motherboard the sound went away, also if i move the cords from that plug it stops/turns back on, so I'm figuring it has something to do with that but got no idea what to actually do, thank you.How old is the machine ? ?
What make and model ? ?

It sounds to me like that power supply COOLING fan is getting ready to go South.

Give us more info and we can advise furthreI don't know the details of my computer but..its around 5 or so years old, I had to get a new power supply box a few years ago though.

mother board is, Intel® Desktop Board D845BG - pentium 4, 1.6
Radeon 9600pro
512 RAM
Intel 82801BA ATA hard drive
Killer NIC
Its a VPR Matrix, I think they sell them at best buy, or use to. its the 1620 model.

I don't think its the fan because, when i turn the power off, the fan isn't on but it still MAKES the the humming sound. Also I dont understand why my speakers are transmitting the sound and I don't even want to raise the volume because its almost unbareable.

I also had advice to put oil in for the fan, which I have never done but I don't think thats the cause either.. but then again you guys know more about this then me, thank you.

If no fans are running and you still hear a humming sound you either have a short somewhere or that PSU is failing...

Have you tried swapping in another one to see if the noise goes away ? ?

If in fact it does turn out to be the PSU do yourself a favor and spend more than 20 bucks on it's replacement. Quote from: Nicholas on May 04, 2007, 09:38:39 PM

I don't know the details of my computer but..its around 5 or so years old, I had to get a new power supply box a few years ago though.

mother board is, Intel® Desktop Board D845BG - pentium 4, 1.6
Radeon 9600pro
512 RAM
Intel 82801BA ATA hard drive
Killer NIC
Its a VPR Matrix, I think they sell them at best buy, or use to. its the 1620 model.

I don't think its the fan because, when i turn the power off, the fan isn't on but it still makes the the humming sound. Also I dont understand why my speakers are transmitting the sound and I don't even want to raise the volume because its almost unbareable.

I also had advice to put oil in for the fan, which I have never done but I don't think thats the cause either.. but then again you guys know more about this then me, thank you.

I don't think it is my PSU

Have you tried swapping in another one to see if the noise goes away ? ?

XP Home SP2   -- Lost option to "Single click to open" in folder options, possibly due to install of tweak ui  or fresh ui.  RATHER than "Restore" back until it re-appears, I WOULD rather go to registry  and change there.  Anyone know which key to change to what??The mouse customisations are in TWEAKUI...SINCE this is the most recent change chances are it LOADED some kinda default values...use it to set your preferences.jrogers106, did you find how to do that in TweakUI?  I could not.  I also believe installing TweakUI does not normally cause the option to "Single click to open" to disappear from folder options.  I have TweakUI installed and I still have the option in folder options.

Hai,

Morning when i tried to make ON my system it is Power On but Only the curser is blinking Winxp not COMMING up,  pl TELL me from where I have to CHECK the parts?Before the blinking starts can you TAP F8 key and go to safemode?

What new item did you do?

Did you put in new video card?nothing put any vidio card, this is p4 onboard intel 915 onboard agp,

when on push power button the curser will blink only  not booting

I suspect h/w prob

pl tell me the part from which i have to diagnose?Age and type of specific components including power supply make and wattage would be helpful. Previous problems? What unusual happened to this machine before the problems.

At school, the COMPUTER was on and I flicked the red switch at the BACK (by the power supply) and the PC blew and now the teacher ses I have to pay for a new one, ut my mate said he did he same thing at home and it was only the lower pack that blew, and he only had to pay £30 for a new one, does anyone now if this is fixable, it was a dell OPTIPLEX 320 I think (if that Helps).The only way we'll be able to tell you is if you have access and permission to open up the computer, and basically have unlimited access to the computer which I doubt a school will give you. Depending on the damage you might not have to buy a new computer. Quote from: casdo on May 03, 2007, 04:09:09 PM

At school, the computer was on and I flicked the red switch at the back (by the power supply) and the PC blew and now the teacher ses I have to pay for a new one, ut my mate said he did he same thing at home and it was only the lower pack that blew, and he only had to pay £30 for a new one, does anyone now if this is fixable, it was a dell OptiPlex 320 I think (if that Helps).

LOL! d**n, no one ever fell for that when I told 'm to.

What do they make you pay? Just tell 'm you thought it was the reset switch.. 

Hi! everyone, i would like some help with a new motherboard.
Specs its a FOXCONN P4M8907MB-2.0-RS2H, VIA P4M890+VT823ZA,
SOCKET 775, FSB 1066/800/533MHz, PCIex 16, DDR2 533/400.
The ATX POWER connector is 24 pin how many voltage would this board need?
Well the problem is this i "connected everthing, when i power it up there is this long long noise, the CPU fan runs but no display.
When i take out the ATX 12V power Connector the noise stops the CPU funs but no display, i tried changing the memory still no solution". Please helpYou probably didn't install the CPU properly. Please read the manual... Thanks for your timely reply! I did install it correctly and i re-checked it, anyway its is a LG 775 socket i think if the CPU is not installed in correctly it would not close the socket cover, well i guess. Need more help pleaseWhat kind of 'noise' does the mainboard make? Thanks once again for your reply! As for the noise its a long and none stopping noise, like I said have to power off the PC in order for the noise to stop, but this only happens when I connect the 12V power connector.  Need helpwhat is the  cpu ?
is it the pins  push thru fan/heatsink  or
do you screw the heatsink/fan into the mobo ?

is there a vid card in the pci-e  slot  / does your monitor connect thru the vid card or thru your io- panel from the mobo ?

lcd  monitor / type ? Quote from: lino124 on May 03, 2007, 10:13:34 AM

Thanks once again for your reply! As for the noise its a long and none stopping noise, like I said have to power off the PC in order for the noise to stop, but this only happens when I connect the 12V power connector.  Need help

Yes it is a pins push thru fan/heatsink . No i dont have a vid card in the pci-e slot. My monitor connects thru io- panel from the mobo, but with this poblem i cant even get any display, its not a LCD type. I dont know how i can discribe the sound any more, but like i said its a looooooong NONE STOPPING sound like TiiiiiiiiiiiiiiinnnnnnG, which goes of when i power of the PC, when i disconnect the 12V power connector and power it on again this sound stops but i dont get any display. Please help.   

It sounds like inductor whine. The harmonics are from the magnetic fields collapsing.

Look at:
toroidal choke in google. I would listen to the ones on the board, or listen to the PSU.

then I would gather a bad psu...  especially since the problem goes away when un-plugging the psu. If your board is new and can take all the 24 plugs- use all 24.  Try a different psu ..

System:  Acer TravelMate Notebook, Model: 2413 LCi (2410 series)
Operating System:  Windows XP, SP2

When I connect the ViewSonic VE150 external monitor I've been using for the last year, I now get the error message "Out of Range 23Hz/18KHz".  This is after I get the Acer splash screen and the Windows XP boot up splash screen during startup.  The VE150 drivers are correctly installed.  I can extend the desktop to the external monitor, but cannot make it the primary monitor.  The Acer email tech said “For this error message try booting to Safe Mode and make sure the display resolution is set for 1280x1024 and set the refresh rate to 75Hz.”  I tried this, but it didn’t work.  Is there a configuration ISSUE of some sort involved here?  Any ideas?

Try using something below [email protected]? [email protected] should always work.

What kind of videocards are you using? Ok, I tried the 800x600, 60 MHz setting - no chnage in behavior. 

On the settings box, I can APPLY the check box to extend the destop to the external monitor successfully, but when I check the "Use this device as the primary monitor" box, the Viewsonic goes black.

Video card in the laptop is Mobile Intel(R) 915GM/GMS,910GML Express Chipset, 128 Mb, Intel Video BIOS.Ah, you're using both the Laptop and an external monitor?

YEP, laptop has a cracked screen, had an extra monitor and VOILA!  Been working fine for the last year or so.Have you tried using the function BUTTONS to switch monitor from laptop to external? Yep, first thing I tried.Have you gone into Device Manager and checked to see what monitors are showing up?

Alan <><  I've been in device manager and both monitors show up.  I've tried disabling them and re-enabling them, but to no avail.  I've pretty much used up the standard troubleshooting methods.  I haven't yet tried to do anything with the registry, but that's a last resort.

Maybe your IDE cable is damaged. Try another one. Or try cable select.

crw330, in the 4 configurations you posted, you mentioned which connector on the IDE cable you had the drives connected to in #1, but not the others.  Did you also change the connections when you reversed the master/slave settings?

You might visit the websites of the DVD drive manufacturers and see whether they have any FAQ or Knowledge Base area with relevant info.  They might even have their own forum.  You might also see whether a firmware update is available for either or both drives. 

Try hooking up the problem drive alone & see if it comes up.

Alan <>< 

Nvidia GeForce MX 4000 128mb video card : driver : win 95/98/ME display driver


compaq MV540 : monitor : crt? i thinck thats what there called its one of the tube kind

OS Name   Microsoft Windows
Version   4.90.3000   Build 3000
OS Manufacturer   Microsoft Corporation
System Name   COMPUTER
System Manufacturer   Compaq
System Model   Compaq PC
System TYPE   X86-based PC
Processor   AMD Duron(tm) Processor AuthenticAMD ~751 Mhz
BIOS Version   
Windows Directory   C:\WINDOWS
Locale   United States
Time Zone   Pacific Daylight Time
TOTAL Physical Memory   255.51 MB
Available Physical Memory   81.35 MB
Total Virtual Memory   2.00 GB
Available Virtual Memory   1.71 GB
Page File Space   1.75 GB


Issues:  when i use the scroll on my mouse the screen will go blanck for a few seconds and sumtimes it says out of range and i have to turn it off and back on for it to come back on    then sumtimes when i first start up my pc before the Nvidia driver starts running the monitor goes into sleep/standyby mode and nuthing i do cant get it out i have to reboot and hope it dosent do it again

if i left out some info u need sorry im rather new to this stuff and any hel WOULD be apreciatedTry reinstalling mouse drivers. If that doesn't solve it, videocard drivers. What version of Windows do you have?  Be specific.  I gather, based on "Version   4.90.3000   Build 3000", that's it's Win ME, but please confirm that.  And specifically what video driver version are you using?

How large is your hard drive?  How much free space?  Why do you have Virtual memory set so high?

Has this problem been getting gradually worse, or was it sudden? 

To rule out any problem with the monitor, try it on another computer. 

Is that video card an AGP card?  Did you install it yourself?  Can you open the computer and verify the card is fully seated in the slot?  You could remove the card and then re-seat it in the slot? 

What brand and model power supply do you have in that computer?  What Wattage is it?     yes win ME
video driver is foreware 80
version 81.98
i also used a unifed driver of theres both drivers work but i have the same issue with them both

Hard Drives
Drive   A:
Description   3 1/2 Inch Floppy Drive
   
Drive   C:
Description   Local Fixed Disk
Compressed   No
Size   15.90 GB (17,068,630,016 bytes)
Free Space   14.29 GB (15,349,030,912 bytes)
   
Drive   D:
Description   Local Fixed Disk
Compressed   No
Size   12.80 GB (13,743,054,848 bytes)
Free Space   11.78 GB (12,644,917,248 bytes)
   
Drive   E:
Description   Local Fixed Disk
Compressed   No
Size   2.73 GB (2,928,234,496 bytes)
Free Space   1.56 GB (1,677,520,896 bytes)
   
Drive   F:
Description   Local Fixed Disk
Compressed   No
Size   3.72 GB (3,994,468,352 bytes)
Free Space   3.21 GB (3,451,977,728 bytes)
   
Drive   G:
Description   CD-ROM Disc
   
Drive   H:
Description   CD-ROM Disc

i let windows specify how much virtual memery to use so i have no clue about that

and yes i installed this vid card have checked it 4 times to make sure its installed properly and the monitor worked fine with the video card the pc came with this problem started when i changed the card

Power Supply

the brand just says Compaq 
Total Power Output Power : 250w

also the vidcard says VGA + Video Out and it has PCI o the box aswell im not sure about what any of this means

and again srry if im not being specific enough and thanx Quote

the monitor worked fine with the video card the pc came with this problem started when i changed the card

the vidcard says VGA + Video Out and it has PCI o the box aswell im not sure about what any of this means

ok from thatt picture it looks like the old card was a vga and the new card wont fit in the slow and i understand what u mean about onboard video now and no i dont have that

I love this mouse as its so needless brilliant with the cluth on the wheel and all the other mods.

The button config is great. Except i can't set up a middle button click, like pressing down on the wheel on normal mice. The middle button on this one is the clutch button and cannot be changed.

I need the middle button feature for firefox, other wise this mouse is useless to me.

I can set up a button to be ctrl+t for a new tab, but i need the middle button click to activale links in the tool bar.

can anybody help?Download the Mouse Gestures extension, you can make gestures with your RMB that activate commands such as CLOSE tab, new tab, back and forward, etc, etc. i can't find an option to that i can click on a link in my tool bar that OPENS that link when i want it to on occasion but all others in the same window as per usualAh, Hm, I thought you meant closing a tab which is also done with the middle mouse button.

Did you use original Logitech software? You should be able to FULLY configure the mouse that way. YEAH i can fully configure it, but i can add a actions to the buttons. But there seems to be no way of adding a middle button click Quote from: eviljammiedodger on May 04, 2007, 11:52:07 AM

Yeah i can fully configure it, but i can add a actions to the buttons. But there seems to be no way of adding a middle button click

OS: Will be Windows XP Home w/ SP2 once I get it installed again
Desktop
Custom built
Mouse: USB, Wacom Pen Tablet
Keyboard: USB, Logitech Media Deluxe
Amount of memory: 2 gig
Motherboard model: don't remember
Video card: GEForce 6800 GT, 256 MB (AGP) and integrated video

Problem:

I recently bought a new 22" widescreen ViewSonic monitor to replace an old CRT clunker. Plugged it into my system and it worked fine for a few days. Then, the problem started. The screen went black and it said "Digital: No signal" and then it went into hibernation mode, you know, where the light turns orange. I turned the computer off and on a few times from the power switch, and then it started working again, but only for a few minutes.

To make a long story short, I somehow ended up shorting out my hard drive, which I have already replaced, but I still have the problem with the monitor. I have tried it on my video card, on the ONBOARD video, with a DVI and the other kind of cable, I've tried my old monitor, my brother's monitor, changing settings in the bios, etc. Nothing works. I am now trying to reinstall windows but after a minute or so the same thing happens: screen goes black etc.

Any idea what's CAUSING this? I don't think it's the monitor, since it works fine when I plug it into my mom's junky little laptop. I also doubt that it is the video card since the same thing happens both with the card and the onboard video.

Could it be the motherboard? *groans* 

I'm getting really frustrated with this...The problem happens with every monitor you connect to the PC?

Replace your videocard.

Does your power supply have ENOUGH wattage to push the video?  Otherwise, replace the video card.

Alan <><  Quote from: ale52 on April 30, 2007, 08:50:57 AM

Does your power supply have enough wattage to push the video?  Otherwise, replace the video card.

Had W2k on C:\ and XP(student) on H:\ on the first partition. Advise was to install a real good XP on C:\ and while doing so to remove the partition, which XP would ask for.....well so i did, the partition got unallocated but the install stopped because of an fatal error...so I was left with good old W2K and an unallocated "Partition/HD"?..lol
Couldnt merge the 2 partitions (one was version 3.0 and the other was version/type 3.1.....) but I could extend C:\ to the utmost....whic I did....was only 180Mb left on the H:.....BUT........when clicking on "My PC" I cant see H:!!!!!!!
I see every HD, CDROM, DVDROM etc, but not H:...??
trying to install XP over W2K on C:\ was unsuccesfull, fatal error there too....so what now? not even putting in a repair installation was possible, same fatal error...Is it possible to format C:\ COMPLETELY? And if so, wil my DVDplayer still be able to read the XP-disc? And what happened to that STRANGE/queer H: which isnt there but is there...lol...

Using cmd I got this:

Microsoft Windows 2000 [Versjon 5.00.2195]
(C) Copyright 1985-2000 Microsoft Corporation
 
C:\Documents and Settings\Peter>dir H:
Volume in station H er Local Disk (H:)
Volumeserialummer is B808-C64D
Content in H:\
Can not find the file.

Have a 2048 Mb RAM, 3200Ghz, Asus

What I want is: C:\ with only XP....that's it....When you make changes to the C: partition in a dual boot setup you are affecting changes to every OS install you have as each flavor of Windows no matter where it is installed to still writes important data to the root of C: ...this cannot be changed .

I would sit down and decide what exactly it is you want on this machine and plan your work.

Save any data you might need and wipe the entire thing and start over.

Plan your work...work your plan.well in the last line I wrote what i wanted.....but how to wipe the sh*t clean?
If I format C:\ will that bl...partition H: disappear as well? If not I only have trouble afterwards....and if the format is 100%, will my dvdplayer recognize the installCD?
Or are there things I need to do up front?
Never done this before, you know...lol...so any help is humbly accepted... and yes, I already saved/backedup all the stuff I need or want to KEEP

By the way: I cant merge partition 1(with W2K) and 2 because the nfts numbers are different 3.0 and 3.1 but the strange thing is the second partition is clean, formatted from all that had to do with XP.....??Start by re-stating how ALL your drives/partitions are setup on that machine and how you would like them to be and we'll go from there.1:C:\ 246 Gb with W2K
2:partition H: (nowhere visible): 8Mb no files?
according to PartitionMagic it IS there but well....
3:D:\ 325 Gb only music MP3 files
4:F:\ 325 Gb warez..lol...
5:E:\ = DVD dual player
6:G:\ = CD player

1+2 : I want to be just 1= C:\ and on that one I only want XP
rest stays the same
You forgot the relevant physical drive info...all those big partitions can't be one drive can they ? ?what do ye mean by physical drive info? Brand-names? They are all western digitals..lol..No, how many hard drives, and what #1, #2. etc. is on each.cant give you anything ADDITIONAL I already did:
1:C:\ 246 Gb with W2K
2:partition H: (nowhere visible): 8Mb no files?
according to PartitionMagic it IS there but well....
3:D:\ 325 Gb only music MP3 files
4:F:\ 325 Gb warez..lol...
5:E:\ = DVD dual player
6:G:\ = CD playerWhat, I think, patio is asking is how many actual HDD's are inside the computer. He/she is not asking for the partition information. Also have you tried during the Win XP install deleting the H: drive partition and then recreating it?It seems obvious to everyone except Peterwolf what the question is. Quote

4:F:\ 325 Gb warez..lol...

I walked away from my computer (DELL) and when I returned several minutes later I moved the mouse to restart my screen only to have the picture on the monitor be upside down.  I have restarted the computer but this does not help.  I do not SEE a setting to correct this problem.  Anyone have an idea what COULD be wrong?Any roommates/ siblings? I've seen this before on a Windows 2000 box.  It turned out to be the drivers for the video card after M$ did an update.  If you can revert the drivers BACK to an earlier version.

Alan <><  Try to press Ctrl+Alt+Upward ARROW keys on your keyboard at the same time as it's sometimes set as the HOTKEY for rotating the screen.

what would be a good sound CARD to get if i want real high quality sound, and LIKE super layering. i don't REMEMBER the word for the "layering" but i remember there's only a certain amount it can handle, like 64 or something.Would it be "voices" by any CHANCE?
I HIGHLY recommend Creative's Audigy series, but I have also heard good things about M-Audio sound cards.yeah it is voices lol thanx. i use sonar 5.0 and i can't playback with sonar because of the "voices", because i have onboard sound, so i have to playback using synthfont...

i want to know, how to SERVICE manual the dot matrix PRINTER?  Look at the manufacturer's web site. I can't QUITE see what MODEL it is from here. Quote from: GX1_Man on May 04, 2007, 03:43:52 AM

Look at the manufacturer's web site. I can't quite see what model it is from here.

Hi,

I am relativly new to computers but so far I think I have a pretty neat setup.

I currently have a Windows XP,
AMD Sempron 3400 2ghz processer,
2GB RAM,
160GB Hard drive.
my next step is to find a suitable graphics card.

I use my COMPUTER generaly for games, i am pretty mad about flight simulators and i have purchased FS X quite recently. The PERFORMANCE is poor so therefore i thought a PCI-Express graphics card is needed.

I thought the NVIDIA 8600 GTS was a good choice but im not 100% sure. I have noticed another post about this but it does not help me as i just need to know if this card will support FSX in medium - high graphical detail.

Many thanks for your time,

James Morgan    First of all, I'm assuming your mobo has PCIe slots.

But I would say, yes, this card would support FS X in that detail.

also, what GFX card are you using at the  moment?Hi,

Thanks for replying,

Just like to say yes it is PCI Express.

It was a NVIDIA 3400 display, which i think was built into the processer or motherboard, because there was no graphics card in it.

Sorry but this is all very confusing to me, but i hope it helps!
the 8600 GTS  is basically a brand new "mid" level card with DirectX 10 (the new Vista graphics capability)  should do everything you would expect it to......... here's a page with 15 to look at and read up on*
look for the different core clock speeds > higher being better, is a DVI -cable included ?   Rebates take 4-ever!!!  .......  good Luck ......

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=2010380048+1069609641+106791921+1067928567&name=GeForce+8600GTS
Sempron for gaming?

I bet you cut down on your PSU as well. I cant you enough for all the INFO 

Yep its mainly for gaming I hope the AMD Sempron processer was a good choice!It wasn't. The Sempron is a budget processor. The Sempron is a poor choice, sorry.
Check the GPU FAQ for detail on current cards, sorry the 8 series has not been added yet (apart from the 8800).
The 8600 comes out pretty good overall though, about on a par with the X1950 series or 7900 series.A real bummer about the processer i GOT it last summer and I and friends were aware that it produced same quality as a pentium.
Well im stuck with it I am not spending my last doche on what sounds like a expensive processor switching process!

I will most likly go for nVIDA 8600GTS

Thanks yet again for all the info!You COULD somewhat compare the Athlon to the Pentium. You can compare the Sempron to the Celeron. Which is a budget version of the Pentium.

Like I said before; you probably didn't spend too much on the PSU either. Which is a mistake with any high-end videocard Ahhhhhhhhh  keep in mind,  If he's asking these type of questions he most certainly isn't as scrupeless   as you 2!!!
scrupeless   <<<   need word game help here !!!   scrupulous.

You're not using Firefox, are you, Honve? actually  LOL   I AM !!!  did i forget another freakin  extension ? Quote from: honvetops on May 02, 2007, 06:06:57 PM

actually  LOL   I AM !!!  did i forget another freakin  extension ?

was taking a look at my neighbors computer and his screen SAYS burn in.

wont go past the MESSAGE, SHOWS even when the computer is turned off, never seen it before.

anyone know what it is?CH article on Burn injeez, i guess i should look around SOMETIME huh?

thanks raptor. Quote from: Hendrix on May 03, 2007, 11:03:49 AM

jeez, i guess i should look around sometime huh?

thanks raptor.

Just recently my computer has had an outbreak of freezing, which occurs after the CPU (or something else) MAKES a weird noise, I usually have enough time to tell someone I am messaging that it is freezing before it does, then I must restart. (5 sec delay before the freeze occurs after the noise.)

This only happens, it seems, during a PC game or during start-up.

There were no viruses or problems found, I use Norton. I'm assuming it's overheating but it's never had that problem before so.. might be something else.

I have,
Windows XP
AMD Athlon XP 2600+
NVIDIA GeForce FX 5600
A7N8X-X Board
1gb ram

The computer is somewhat old, over 5 years I'm sure, I've replaced the power supply once and added new ram once.

Thanks for your help.I would suspect a bad video card, but I can't say for sure.  Being five years old, the computer might just be going south in general.  What brand of computer is this?  Is Norton your only protection?Since you're actually hearing a strange noise. I'd actually suspect a failing fan, this could be the fan on the case or more likely the CPU or Video card. To troubleshoot an issue like this, assuming your computer is in a SAFE place open the case and work with the case off, see if you can see if any of the fans are not spinning or not spinning 100% of the time. If everything looks ok wait until you hear the noise and then look in the case and see if you see any fans not working or slowing down. With the case being open it may also not freeze.

If it is a failing fan it will need to be replaced. If this is a Video card fan that is failing I'd recommend replacing the video card, their fans can be replaced but often a real pain. Quote from: CBMatt on April 26, 2007, 12:36:55 PM

I would suspect a bad video card, but I can't say for sure.  Being five years old, the computer might just be going south in general.  What brand of computer is this?  Is Norton your only protection?

Run the manuf. HDD diagnostics on that drive just to be safe.

What about the PSU ? ?

( I still think it's the vid card fan )

If it cost less than 30 bucks chances are it's the PSU...

Make and wattage ? ?

HELP!!!!    I have an LCD monitor that is a little over a YEAR old and the last few weeks it just goes black without warning. Sometimes you can hard shut down the computer and it will come back on and sometimes it won't. Anyone got any suggestions?

PS. Took it into Best Buy GEEK Squad, they of course couldn't find anything wrong with it.Can you test it on another computer to verify the Geek Squad results?  Does your computer use onboard video or an add-on video card?I have the same problem. I replaced the power adapter 'brick'. Same result. I have tested the monitor with a different computer. Same  result.
My monitor is an Acer 1714B.
My computer is a stand-alone generic desksktop and uses a video card and Windows XP.
I took the monitor in to a LOCAL electronics service tech and left a nonrefundable $37.50 deposit. After keeping the monitor for 2 weeks,  he SAID "The 'main board' is bad. It will be too expensive to replace."   

Hate to scrap it. Any suggestions for my next MOVE?

wlittlejReplace the 'mainboard' yourself?

Is that what he said, by the way? "Mainboard"?
Quote from: wlittlej on May 02, 2007, 12:21:04 PM

My computer is a stand-alone generic desksktop and uses a video card and Windows XP.
I took the monitor in to a local electronics service tech and left a nonrefundable $37.50 deposit. After keeping the monitor for 2 weeks,  he said "The 'main board' is bad. It will be too expensive to replace."   

soybean:
I mis-quoted the tech. He said the "board" is bad - meaning the board in the monitor, not my computer. And no, he never saw my computer. Sorry for the confusion. Thanks for responding and helping me to clarify.
wlittlej

Raptor:
Alas, monitor is out of warranty. Thanks for the suggestion anyway.
wlittlej

I AM LOOKING TO PURCHASE A DELL COMPUTER.
WHICH VIDEO CARD SHOULD I CHOSE AND WHY:
NVIDIA GEFORCE 6150 LE OR INTEL X3000.
I THINK BOTH ARE LOW END CARDS. BUT IAM TRYING TO KEEP THE COST DOWN.DO YOU HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS?
Intel's card looks like an integrated card to me, so the GeForce would be a lot better. but what are you using this PC for?He wants a machine that the capslock isn't stuck on...

If you are buying a Dell you should see what cards they offer for your specific machine.I'd get a videocard that emulates a non-Caps Lock surrounding. Yes, the TECHNOLOGY is advanced and yes, it costs a dear bit but in the end it'll be worth it as it will prevent you from looking like a complete moron.

I SUSPECT this is a laptop.  Not necessarily, lots of low end desktops are sold with integrated graphics.
Both are low end cards that will not run demanding games, or may run them but very poorly.
What do you want the PC for?
And what's your budget?
Dell may not be the best bet.
And please lose the caps. Dear :
 Intel X3000 is integeated card you can choose geforce 7300GS TC (512MB) DDRII
 it can REDUCE cost and ATI 1050 and some up series and they will also cure your most games needsThanks:
games are not important. I want to set up a web page to sell jewelry.
I also do a lot on e_bay. photos must be clear.
I also have a Autocad drawing program I use.
The two Dell computers I am looking at have the cards installed.
Do you think they will do the job for me.
How much do you use Autocad ? ?

If it is alot there are cards designed specifically for this

I just built a high-end machine last week for an Architect and he recieved recommendations dfor his card fron the Autodesk Forums which are dedicated to CAD users...What's your budget?
And as PATIO said, how heavily do you use AutoCAD?
If you are a heavy user, a specialised workstation card may be suited, otherwise integrated will be fine for the other tasks you mention, the X3000 is slightly better than the 6150.

In the past few DAYS my laptop suddenly shut down twice after couple of HOURS of use.  When it happened the second TIME, I touched the left side of the unit and it felt pretty hot.  I suspect that it is an overheating problem.  So I downloaded and installed PC Wizard utility and ran a test.  After 1 hour of use, the CPU temperature reached 60 degrees Celsius.  Is that too hot?  If I use a regular household fan to blow air toward the laptop, I was able to cap the CPU temperature at 54 degrees.  Right now this fan is able to keep the temperature at 49 degree for at least 15 minutes now. 

I have not seen the small fan/heat sink visible from the back panel move at all; when does this fan run?  The 2 bigger fans visible on the bottom side works.

What is considered overheating and what is considered safe operating temperature for this laptop?  What further steps should I take if it is considered overheating (I already vacuum thru the openings)?  Please help!

Did it shut down when you cooled it by other means? If not, you're going to need ONE of those laptop cooling pads.

And you should reconfigure the laptop BIOS to use less power so that the laptop remains cooler.. As to the non-running fan i would take it to a local service center...laptops aren't exactly designed for owner repairs. Quote from: patio on April 29, 2007, 08:15:08 AM

As to the non-running fan i would take it to a local service center...laptops aren't exactly designed for owner repairs.

Thanks for all your input!  I bought a fan base and trying it out.  It is able to keep the CPU temperature at 53-54 degrees Celsius most of the time.  Is this temperature good enough to keep the laptop working for a couple more years?

I have a fairly new homemade PC and I've been having a lot of things go wrong with it.
Just recently, I had to replace the motherboard (ASUS K8N-VM) because the old one didn't have a functioning PCIe slot. The replacement is the exact same make of board as the old one.

After I replaced the motherboard I was having problems with the MEMORY (or that was what asus support told me) because the computer was crashing as soon as I tried to run any programs. I was told by asus support to set the ram speeds manually, and I did, which seemed to help. but then it got worse.

Right now the computer crashes whenever I try to boot up, before I get to the desktop. I did a completely fresh install of windows 2000 and I ended up on the desktop, but when I put in the motherboard drivers (ethernet, sound, etc) and restarted I was unable to get to the desktop. This isn't a problem if I boot up is safe MODE, but it is a problem even if I use another harddrive. I've checked the cpu temp in the bios after a crash and it is usually around 39 C (80 F), so I don't think it is that.

Is this still a memory problem?
Does anyone have any other suggestions?Does the other HDD happen to have an OS installed on it ? ? ? If so leave it out of the equation for now til we narrow down the issues.
I would first re-set the BIOS back to it's default settings...i can't see a board manuf. asking you to mess with memory timings to troubleshoot but hey...i've heard it all.
DLoad and run MemTest and let it run for a few hours....
It runs from a bootable floppy/CD so Windows is not necessary.
Also DLoad and run the HDD diagnostics from the master HDD's manuf. site...these are free.
Report back with your results.HDDs: both hard drives have win2k on them and were BOOTING happily before I replaced the mobo. I have tried booting with both together and seperately. I now just have one in. I'd assume that this means the problem isn't with the harddrives. but I haven't done the diagnostic for them yet.

I am doing the memtest now. The first pass didn't seem to result in any errors, at least the errors colume is still at zero and there are no flashing red danger signs (I don't know how it actually reports errors...).

I was surprised as well by asus saying I had to mess with memory timings. it's the exact same mobo...
setting the clock speeds manually did help though, at least while I was able to make it to the desktop.Leave only one HDD in for now...I have been looking through a couple other forums and problems with power supplies sound vaugly similar to my problems. Most psupply issues sound like they can get to desktop and run programs before crashes at random intervals. My computer always reboots itself during windows startup (around where you enter password).
Thoughts?
Borrow a PSU of the same wattage or greater and swap it in to see if the situation improves...

I would still finish the MemTest though...Memtest went through 2 passes (full cycles) and didn't come up with anything. I have it running again now. How does one know if it finds an error?

as for power supply, I'll see what I can do. the entire system was working fine before the mobo replacement though, and I don't see what I could have done to damage the PSU...can memory still be a problem if there is no problem in safe mode?It can be, but if Memtest found nothing I would move to step two which is try another PSU. You may also want to remove ALL ADD in cards (EXCEPT video if required) and see if that improves things. I have no add in cards, video is integrated.

I went and disconected everything unimportant (dvd drive, second hard drives) from the psu to see if the power supply was the problem. and I formatted the hard drive and reinstalled windows 2k, service pack 4, and some mobo drivers (audio, ethernet, etc.) seems to be working fine, though it did crash once while installing some of the drivers it worked the second time round. now it just crashes and restarts whenever I try to access the internet.

So far:
+I'm fairly sure it's not the hard drive (I have 2 and I swapped them out to check.)
+I'm sure its not the software/os (I've formatted and reinstalled several times)
+I don't think its the ram (ran memtest 86+ and 4 passes found nothing wrong)
    The ram was a problem before, I had to manually set the timings for it, seems fine now.
+I don't think it's the cpu. I don't see how this can only partially fail.
+It might be the power supply, but it was working fine before I replaced the mobo, and it only has a floppy, a mobo, a cd drive, and a sata hard drive running off it right now (400W no brand name that I can see on it, I think it's second hand). and the computer seems to run fine right now except of internet.
+The mobo is a replacement from the manufacturer and was supposedly tested before they sent it to me. Perhaps I missed connecting something correctly? I don't see how that could be a partial problem...

Thanks for all your help so far. Quote

(400W no brand name that I can see on it, I think it's second hand).

I seem to have a very strange problem/issue with my computer. I have a Toshiba Satellite A75-S206 Laptop that has SERVED me quite well over the past two years, ignoring the inconvenience of irregular overheating and the like. Microsoft XP, Service Pack 2, etc.

Now, imagine my surprise (or, perhaps my dear friends' surprise) when, after getting frustrated over constant CPU Throttling while playing World of Warcraft apparently brought on by heat, I look in my system information file to find my computer showing I have two processors. Count them, two.

My computer is seeing double.

The hardware description of my laptop does not show two processors, but one: a 2.8 Ghz Mobile Pentium 4 Processor. But my system information says I have two. And not only that, my Control Panel says I have two. My Device Manager says I have two. My SpeedFan program says (surprise!) I have two. A third-party system scan application says I have two. My Task Manager says I have two, and yes, they show two different loads and usage simultaneously. If I had not the wondrous powers of the Internet at my disposal I would have had no reason to suspect this AMAZING, yet baffling consensus.

Dare I question the knowledge of Microsoft Windows XP (cue guffawing here), my Toshiba software, and every other system I've used to scan my system with? Or is there something seriously wrong with my computer? My dear friends say the latter. What say you?Maybe its Intel's good old, nearly USELESS, hyperthreading. It makes it look like there are two processors when in fact there is only one. The CPU is effectively divided and there will be different processes running in each hyperthread.If hyperthreading is the reason, I wonder why this was not noticed until now?

nirikun, is your processor one of the ones shown here?: http://www.intel.com/products/ht/hyperthreading_more.htmYes, it is. The 2.80 Ghz Intel Mobile Pentium 4 chipset.

Is there a way to fix this?I believe you need to access your BIOS and look for an option to disable HyperThreading. 

I'm still wondering why you did not discover this until you had the computer for two years.I do remember the Hyper-threading, I just didn't really know much about it at the time.

Is Hyper-Threading a problem, though?Honestly, as far as I know, I haven't worked with machine with HyperThreading enabled, so let's see if someone else has an opinion.  But, I would say that, since it is a feature of the processor, it's not a "problem".  Also, I would guess that, since Windows is reporting two processors running in that computer, showing two Task Manager lists, etc., it's clearly working in HyperThreading mode and you might experience poorer performance by disabling it. 

If you want, you could look in your BIOS to see whether it has an option to disable it, and, if so, disable it as a test to see how it runs.  But, I think I'd leave it as is unless I learned of a specific reason to justify disabling it.  Disabling it without specific cause just doesn't make sense, IMO.
Well, the whole reason I "discovered" this hyper-threading feature is because lately I've been getting terrible CPU Throttling whenever I play World of Warcraft. This has been HAPPENING only for the past, maybe, two weeks or so, and I'm wondering how to stop it, because it's throttling everywhere now. Every 20-30 seconds my CPU will just slow and my frame rate will collapse. I've been trying to figure out what the heck is the problem.

I don't know if hyper-threading would do this, though. It's probably heat-related, though it still does this when my computer is cool to the touch.Some programs are helped by hyperthreading, some are hindered. Just try your game both ways and see which gives better results.It's a laptop. It could very well be overheating. Sounds like heat to me.
Hyper-Threading may have been activated by a recent Windows Update, sometimes it wasn't shown correctly but an update fixed this, although I'm SURE it was a long while ago.
HT is fairly useless, although some people see a big increase with it enabled.
I don't think it'd be a problem though. Quote from: nirikun on April 30, 2007, 09:52:25 PM

It's probably heat-related, though it still does this when my computer is cool to the touch.

Hi,

How do i format a USB STICK with NTFS.

The format tab shows only FAT & FAT32. 

ThanksGot it

http://www.ntfs.com/quest22.htmIt's probably better to leave it as FAT or FAT32, it'll be COMPATIBLE with more OS's and NTFS suffers compared to FAT FILE systems below a certain limit, I believe a few tens of Gb but I could be wring, which most memory sticks are under.
Any reason you WANTED NTFS rather than FAT?There is absolutely NO reason to do this. No ADVANTAGE at all, and some risk.

Sorry if this is a daft question but you never know unless you ASK!

Can any external hard drive be used on a laptop or does it have to be a certain type?

Thanks!

DebbyIf your laptop has USB ports, any hard drive with a USB CONNECTION should work.  Beyond that, the drive has to be ABLE to identify itself to the operating system.  GOOD luck.Assuming the HDD has an USB interface and that you are using XP/Vista; yes.

I have a HP Omnibook 2100 running Win98SE that uses a Xircom CEM56 modem to access the INTERNET, this modem will dial and make a number ring, ex. my home phone, but it never completes a connection to my SERVICE provider, I get a message that the server did not answer, although I can HEAR the usual noises that are made after the ringing to the service provider until it times out and gives me a message that the ISP did not RESPOND and to try later.  I have tried drivers from just about every source I can find but no solution.
I am hoping someone here can help.

Thanks
BrandyI would try that modem card in another notebook to see if it is faulty...

How old is it ? ?You NEED the CORRECT drivers. E-mail tech support at HP uf you can't find it at Driverguide.com

I got two one month old 7900 GT's for sale becuase I'm upgrading to one 8800GTX.

EDIT: We do not offer to sell items here. You must have thought this was eBay, so please re-read the rules.

GX1
ModeratorDo we look like E-bay, boy? ROFLMAO


**********CRICKETS*********
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Quote from: Raptor on MAY 01, 2007, 01:59:57 PM

Do we look like E-bay, boy?

A FRIEND gave me an OLD celeron 533mhz with 64mb ram (pc100). the max supported ram is 512, but two sticks of 256 are like $80-$90. the local comp shop has like a 800mhz with i forget how much ram but i think it was 128 or 256 for $100. it seems to me it would be more cost effective to just GET the other computer unless i can buy some faster ram at a cheaper price and run it underclocked or something. i dont have much exp with the older stuff. any opinions?I would look into what type of RAM and how much it would cost for the 8ooG machine before MAKING a DECISION...ok, i'll have to get the exact specs then. Quote from: CompEngineer0 on May 02, 2007, 03:49:52 PM

A friend gave me an old celeron 533mhz with 64mb ram (pc100). the max supported ram is 512, but two sticks of 256 are like $80-$90. the local comp shop has like a 800mhz with i forget how much ram but i think it was 128 or 256 for $100. it seems to me it would be more cost effective to just get the other computer unless i can buy some faster ram at a cheaper price and run it underclocked or something. i dont have much exp with the older stuff. any opinions?

I read some topics here but still couldn't resolve my problem.
Here we go:

comp:
I have Toshiba Satellite 17" laptop Celeron 1.7 gHz 256+512 mb RAM 60 gb HD.
OS - Windows XP Pro SP2 (not original which comes with laptop). I use AVG7 antivirus.

problem:
I have 300gb Maxtor external HD (not new) where I KEEP most of my movie, music, anime.
One day I've got some virus from internet. And my external HD was CONNECTED to comp. AVG moved it to virusvolt. Later I cleared virusvolt folder by AVG. Then after for a while (I left extHD connected to comp for a night to download some things) I have no idea what happened but I couldn't find ANYTHING on extHD.
My Computer shows it as Lockal Drive G: total size:0, free space:0. Actually I gave to extHD totally different name.
When I tryied to open it. Comp shows an error.

actions:
I tried MANY softweres to get my data back but no result. Some of them do not see extHD. Some do see but cannot do anything. Shows an errors. Only 2 PROGS could tell me that HD is 300gb and free space 30gb on it. And then there's no or corrupted MFT - cannot fix.

question:
HELP!!! PLEASE!!! I want my data back.ANd if you right click on the drive in My Computer and choose "properties" what does it show?Sorry it took some time to get home and check it one more time.

So Device Manager say that there is such HD - location:0, device working properly, capacity: 286173mb.

It looks like ok... And the file format is?NTFSThe first thing you do is START a new thread, rather than trying to hijack this one. Thanks.bonchick,

Have you tried hooking up that external to another machine....preferably a desktop ? ?Yes, I tried as external. But same thing. Quote from: bonchick on April 27, 2007, 09:30:39 PM

NTFS

ANd if you right click on the drive in My Computer and choose "properties" what does it show?

Please help! my computer randomly restarts when i'm playing games. This happens only when i play HEAVY games like skyrim. I've read a lot from forums recently and tried multiple things to fix it but the trouble won't go away! I've installed latest drivers, checked for viruses, cleaned computer from dust, troubleshooted, checked Bios and checked temperatures. The temperatures are normal even when i am gaming, so it's not overheating. But when the computer chrashes a black screen pops up and a strange noise comes up. I am not sure if my PSU is correct strength for my computer now that i have recently vought new GPU,CPU, RAM and motherboard.

My PC specs are:

Intel core i7/4790k 4.00ghz
NVIDIA Geforce GTX980
8gb ram
1tb hdd
ASUS motherboard Z97-A
PSU Corsair 650w

Here is a link to my voltages: http://i60.tinypic.com/2ly08hy.png

and i dont know the fan specs, but if it's reallly necessary then i'll find out somehow.
Please help! This is really bugging me now and I would admire every ANSWER or solution given!Have you run memtest86 on this to MAKE sure its not a ram stick causing a crash. Also look in the windows event LOG to see if it says what it thinks the condition is. It might just state unexpected power failure, but maybe there is something helpful there.tried the memtest and there were no errors, but i'm not sure how to use the event viewer if you could please explain a little how it works. Thanks again for answering me btw Right-Click on My Computer on your desktop
Select Manage
Select Event Viewer


You then will see in a window

Critical
Error
Warning
Information
Audit Success


Look through these for anything that shows problems and report them back here.here they are:         and it's last hour/within 24hours/within 7days

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]I'd try a different power supply since i dont see anything else here that would point elsewhere. Kernel Power is Windows detecting power losses. Do you have a spare on hand that is sufficient wattage or can you get a replacement or borrow one from someone that is known good at above 600 watts? If replacing the power supply and having to buy one, another 650watt by Corsair should be good but I feel is close to the bare minimum to drive the CPU/GPU combo. Also your prior power supply may be covered by warranty depending on its age. When did you buy the power supply, and do you still have sales slip?

Anyone else here know if they should go with heavier than 650 watts with this build? To me it seems as if 600 watts of a good trusted brand would be bare minimum. Should they go with a 750 watt due to the power hungry CPU and GPU combo?
i do not have the sales slip due to the fact that my friend gave me this PSU to help out with my new power requirements of the GPU. I'm thinking of buying a new PSU with 750-850w and see if there is a difference. I'll reply after i INVESTIGATE more of the PSU issue. Also, thanks again for helping me out!

a FRIEND bought this,i just want to reset it, but the user account is password protected and it wont LET me. Any idea how to do this?
as far as i know, she bought it online and CANT get a HOLD of the person to get the password from them.
thanksA friend? As far as you know? Tell your friend to take it to a Dell outlet with proof of legal ownership. We don't help with CRACKING.

I Have bought a lot of comp parts that came with 2 full Pentium 4 and the guy told me that they had been tested on screens, and all that stuff , but I've never succeeded displaying anything on my working vga screen. I tried pci cards with VGA Output , no more results.
By pressing POWER , fans are turned on and hard disks rotate, the cd / dvd drives open and close ...
I removed the battery from the motherboard played with the jumpers but still nothing appears. If only I had access to the Bios I could try a few tricks, but I am here to ask for help from more advanced technicians.
Do you think I got screwed and there is opportunity to revive them?
Do you think it's possible to find a motherboard with equal or superior quality, compatible with the desktop case for a low cost?
Thank you

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]For starters... are you sure the monitor your using is a good one?

Have you tried all VGA ports for a signal since these systems have multiple VGA outputs?

Next remove those video cards from the SYSTEM and try to boot using only integrated video. In the pic's I see one that looks like it has 2 video cards stuffed into it and the other has one video card stuffed into it. You want to lower the power demand by removing them from equation.

Next... remove the power from optical and HDD as well as remove any cards that are unnecessary for an attempt at a minimal boot.

If still no luck, then try swapping out a power supply with a known good power supply.

This is assuming that the CPU, RAM, and Motherboards are good.

If you have other systems of the same era, you can swap out known good RAM with the RAM of one of these systems.

CPU's rarely go bad so i wouldnt target that.

The last thing I would expect it to be after testing all of this would be a blown motherboard.


**** At my prior job I serviced both the Compaq and DELL computers that you have SHOWN. The Compaq is one of 2 motherboard types the early style with the PC-100 to 133 SDRAM Pentium 4 1.5 to 1.8Ghz type and the later 2.0 to 2.6Ghz Pentium 4 with 266Mhz to 400Mhz DDR RAM. The Dell is probably a 2.0 to 2.8Ghz with 2.4 and 2.6Ghz being more common for this enclosure model type and uses DDR 266 to 400Mhz depending on the age of it and specific model #. They used this enclosure for many like models. The Compaq you have there if its the early Pentium 4 with SDRAM you have to worry about someone stuffing too much memory into it. They maxed out at like 768MB RAM for some of the early boards. The later boards maxed out at 1 to 2GB. I'd attempt booting off a single stick if none of the above helps and you dont have a like system to boot off of known good memory.

The good thing about the Compaq is that its pre Capacitor Plague era for Compaq. The Dell though could have bad Capacitors. I'd check both of them over though as for capacitors do fail and when they do they sometimes swell and blow out their electrolyte. It you see any without flat tops that are domed or crud that is on the tops of them then you have a serious problem.

HP/Compaq has their major Capacitor plague mainly with their Business Class systems like the DC5000 tower and SFF desktop models of the Pentium 2.66Ghz to 3.2Ghz line. Dell is more common to have the Capacitor Plague in the next generation model to the one that you have here which is also with the Pentium 2.66Ghz to 3.2Ghz line since they were manufacturing at the same time in competition with HP/Compaq and they both bought these bad boards or caps if self manufactured. The manufacturer for that Compaq you have is probably an INTEL brand board which are well made. The Dell board in the Dell was either made by Dell or also Intel if my memory is correct for that product line. HP/Compaq later started going with ASUS for their boards and other brands. Dell's boards were mainly proprietary so they were special for the range of like models. They even made proprietary power supplies in some models which makes for FUN replacing a bad power supply. The good thing is that I believe the Dell you have uses the universal 20-pin with 4pin 12V molex so if a power supply is needed it would be pretty easy to swap out with another.1 = Compaq Evo D510
2 = Dell Optiplex GX260

i have succeded reviving the displays on the GX260 yesterday and after a while of trying things (updating the bios to latest and installing windows7) the displays went away and its back to black screen from the start.compatibility issue

The printer is a Hewlett Pakard Laserjet 4100 and the machine its connected to has Win2k service PACK 4 .EVERYDAY at around 2pm the printer starts printing whether Im using it or not.Its been doing this for about 3 weeks now.I end up having to unplut it or stop the process.Any suggestions on what option Im OVERLOOKING thats causing it to do this?Do you have some documentation (print, CD-ROM, PDF, HP's website, etc.) on that printer?  Have you thoroughly looked at the features in the printer software, accessing it from Windows Control Panel? 

I have a Canon BJC-3000 that I owned for several years before I discovered that I could set it to automatically power on when a print command is issued.  Prior to that, I always manually turned it on.

I DONT have documentation or the cd but I have been using google a lot.Im not really finding anything related to my situation BUT..........thank you for the help...I did what I should have done from the beginning.I downloaded the drivers...uninstalled it...reinstalled it and it SEEMS to be ok for now.OK, thanks for the feedback.  Glad to hear you resolved the problem.  Come back anytime.

I own a LOGITECH 5.1 surround setup.

It...kind of works.

It has worked fully in the past, but very recently (I cant think of anything that may change the situation), the forward two speakers and the rear two speakers stopped putting out...loud sound.

But only under certain circumstances. When I listen to music, or watch a movie, all of the speakers play.

But when I do something like play a video game, where the sound is dynamic in relation to the speakers, the sound comes out as a very low, almost not audible sound.

Not good for a gamer such as myself.

Also, I am using AC97 software, and there is a test on there that test each speaker to see if it works. All of them work normally, according to the test. But there is also another test, in which a bee flies around an animation of the user, and the bee's buzzing sound is supposed to correlate on the speakers like it is in relation to the user on the screen.

Here, all you can hear from my satellite speakers is a very low buzzing sound, however, when the bee is positioned in front of the user on the screen, my center speaker (also positioned in front of the user) works fine, put out a nice, loud, annoying, bee buzzing sound.

Also the subwoofer works fully...no surprise, seeing as how the cables are grouped as such: center-sub, front-left-front-right, rear-left-rear-right.

Yes, it is set to 5.1 both on the ac97 audio driver thing and on the windows control panel. The volume for all speakers works fine. All the wires are tightened...and the speakers themselves are not physically damaged in any way. They all work, just not when I need the surround sound part of them.

I have used this software and configuration for quite some time...I don't understand why it suddenly decided to screw up.

So what I have gathered is that the speakers functionality seems to be related somehow to the dynamic surround systems...when sound can be played out of different speakers at any given time.

And that simple, unchanging sound output like music or video seems to work fine.

Thanks in advance for all your replies and help.

qazaq

P.S. Sorry for such a lengthy post, but I felt I needed to explain the situation a little more than "It doesn't work," given the amount of problems that can go wrong with speakers...or with any computer components. Quote

But only under certain circumstances. When I listen to music, or watch a movie, all of the speakers play.

But when I do something like play a video game, where the sound is dynamic in relation to the speakers, the sound comes out as a very low, almost not audible sound.

Quote

But only under certain circumstances. When I listen to music, or watch a movie, all of the speakers play.

But when I do something like play a video game, where the sound is dynamic in relation to the speakers, the sound comes out as a very low, almost not audible sound.

You're either:

1. Using AC 97 '(Quickly scanned your post and this seemed to be the case)
2. Or you're using the wrong software.

It's number 1. Get a Creative soundcard that costs >40 dollars and install their (latest) drivers.

Surround sound will only work with DVD's and video games, music and normal movies never have surround sound simply because they miss the files to tell the PC its surround, but with Creative drivers you can emulate surround sound.

I didn't know this !  If I had, I might have gotten to sleep before 1 am last night- pulling my hair out   , Thanks  Rap*

Get a Creative soundcard that costs >40 dollars and install their (latest) drivers.

Just don't forget;

Quote

Get a Creative soundcard that costs >40 dollars and install their (latest) drivers.

Last night while rearranging the furniture in my home office, I completely forgot the computer was on and just unplugged everything.  Later, when I plugged it back in and turned it on, the HP screen comes up and then it stops.  Did I completely screw up my computer?Not necessarily. What about some details on it?

The correct place to start is by opening the case and making sure all of the cards are inserted correctly, RAM seated properly, fans turning, etc. Any unusual sounds or smells? While in there notice the brand and wattage of the power supply UNIT?The PC was running fine just prior, so everything is installed correctly.  I simply moved it from one side of the room to the other.  It's an HP Pavillion, THOUGH I don't know the exact model at the moment (I'm at WORK right now).  No unusual sounds or smells.  The standard start-up routine is that it first displays the HP screen, then the Windows XP screen, but right now it stops at the HP screen.  I'll try to GET more info later...Sometimes when things are moved, the STRANGEST things happen.So are you saying that unplugging the PC while it was running shouldn't cause a problem, or are you just trying to rule out other things?  Quote

Re: I am a moron.  Help?

So are you saying that unplugging the PC while it was running shouldn't cause a problem, or are you just trying to rule out other things? 

Just some info here to any owners of a Celeron chip.
I have a 1 year old Emachine (replaced psu after purchase*) with a celeron 346  3.06 ghz chip.   w/ 1024  megs  ram
I just installed a new Pentium 4/  650   3.40 Ghz w/ hyperthreading  tech

I have not multi- tasked like downloading mp3's and surfing net (but will this weekend).  I have not seen a  "remarkable" increase in speed with the 650 chip.  I am somewhat amazed,  the celeron performed just fine in comparison with the pentium 4.  Is there an increase in speed and performance (ie..startup and loading of anti-virus program)>  , YES!  Is it remarkable=  NO !   food for thought........................Celeron is already decent enough for mundane tasks.

You should have tried a program like Prime95 or another CPU benchmark program before and after the installation. It is a newer Celeron, so the difference will be less than if it was an older one.
It really depends what you're doing, CPU intensive tasks will be faster with the P4 than the Celeron but mundane tasks such as OFFICE work will not see a great difference.Dear
Celeron = Causal Processor with low buss and cache memory but intel original has more buss and cache and for gaming, but celeron is for common office work and casual songs listening your P4 oroginal processor was i think has a  slightly difference in MOTHERBOARD support list bhut how can you say that celeron is best
Quote from: extreme on May 01, 2007, 12:57:12 PM

... how can you say that celeron is best

Quad core is already out.
Most software doesn't even take advantage of dual core CPUs right now, but more and more are becoming multi-threaded now.
The 45nm chips you are referring to will be much better than this generation of CPUs (40% faster, or so I've heard).
Looks like more and more cores and smaller and smaller processes is the way things are going now though.

Can anyone tell me why my computer KEEPS turning itself off. Normally while I'm on games or other media programs.

nothing happens, no messeges or anything. Someone told me it could be my power cable. I doubt it as I can stay on for hours at a time, even days if I'm on the net or USEING photoshop, but as soon as I do somthing like play world of warcraft it just shuts down!More Info! Model, specs, power supply, video card, motherboard. That and anything else you can THINK of

sorry!

Packard Bell, Pentium(R) 4 CPU 2.93GHz 512MB of RAM

power cable is,

M&P
Medi-power el ectronics,
model AD-1250B
Input: 100-240v-1.2a 60/50Hz
Output: 12v 4a 48w

I'm not sure other details but it's how I bought it from PC world a couple of years back!I've never seen anyone tell us the information on their power cable, and because of that I'll help you!

Answer these questions.

1. What are you doing when it shuts down?
2. What are the PC temperatures?
3. Is the PC case very dusty? Bad power supply, heat and bad RAM are the most likely SUSPECTS. Is that the original power supply? How old, and what is the make and wattage.

Take the side off and blow a fan directly in there while gaming.

Free RAM test download at www.memtest86.com

Post back with your responses.

I bought PIXMA MP530 Office Printer for just $ 167.00 from Planetonline. Its 1 picoliter sized ink droplets produce exceptionally detailed photos. It produce impressive 1200-dpi scans, with vibrant 48-bit color depth. The automatic document feeder holds 30 originals, so it's easy to copy, scan or fax multipage DOCUMENTS.
I consider any inkjet printer a waste of money. Quote from: Stanley ALFRED on April 30, 2007, 03:51:37 AM

I bought PIXMA MP530 Office Printer for just $ 167.00 from Planetonline. Its 1 picoliter sized ink droplets produce exceptionally detailed photos. It produce impressive 1200-dpi scans, with vibrant 48-bit color depth. The automatic document feeder holds 30 originals, so it's easy to copy, scan or fax multipage documents.

I consider any inkjet printer a waste of money.

Quote from: Raptor on April 30, 2007, 07:51:23 AM

I consider any inkjet printer a waste of money.

Why?  The next step up is laser, right?  And, they're a lot more expensive.

By the way, this topic is spam in a less obvious way than usual.

Quote from: soybean on April 30, 2007, 11:33:11 AM

Quote from: Raptor on April 30, 2007, 07:51:23 AM

I consider any inkjet printer a waste of money.

Why?  The next step up is laser, right?  And, they're a lot more expensive.

Actually, you've got laser printers at the same price level of a decent inkjet printer

I'm buying a new Dell PC and one of the video card CHOICES I have is the 256MB nVidia GeForce 8600 GTS and I'm wondering if it will suit my gaming needs or not. Keep in mind I don't want people to compare this card to other cards, I just want to KNOW if the 8600 GTS will be a good card to use on games such as WoW, BF2, etc, I don't need any info on any other cards(I asked this same type of question a year or so ago for a DIFFERENT video card and couldn't get a straight answer because people just kept telling me "you should get this card, or that card isn't as good as this card, etc" so I only want to know how the 8600 GTS does when running games).

On a side note, I know it's a DX10 compatible card but since there isn't any DX10 games out yet I'm only asking for it's preformance for DX9(if you can tell me how it runs on Vista that would be great as well).

Thanks a lot, I really do appreciate it.here's a review from someone who just bought one,  there are many reviews over at newegg.com from people who own these.....   reading is fun ......is it a good card,yes


    Pros: When I DECIDED on the 8600gts series, I ordered this card because of the larger fan and heatsink. Smaller fans spinning at higher RPM make more noise, whereas this one pushes more air with a bit less noise. This one is slightly overclocked above default specs, so that is a plus. Articles on this model online have proven to gain an extra 50MHz overclock on core without lockups or voltage mod, but I haven't tried that.
    Cons: For an extra fifty bucks I could have upgraded to the 8800 series, and I think these are priced a bit high since it doesn't nearly compare to the 8800 series, as these have a big price/performance gap without a large gap in price. There are DX9 cards more powerful than this, but for less money. I guess you pay for the DX10 capabilites.
    Other Thoughts: Upgrading from the top of the nvidia 6 series, this is a step up for me without breaking the bank. Like a lot of folks, my monitor's native res is 1280x1024 which this card has proven to run games decently at. It is a safe choice but could stand a $20 price drop in my opinion to be more on par with performance. What's the price tag on it? Dear
Try http://www.gamepc.com for GTS bench mark and run 3Dmark 2006 you will get your answer for future gaming support
From  Pc game Lover
Quote from: Raptor on May 01, 2007, 07:04:46 AM

What's the price tag on it?

I have a ATX case with 2 Molex jumpers cable's and the power supply has the connectors for it. I am trying to find a new power supply for the case, but I am NOTICING new powers supply's do not have the Molex jumper CABLES? Are there case's  available with these connectors or can I use an adapter of sort and connect to a regular Molex or something else??

PIC of the jumpers cable


http://jtechphotonics.com/?product=molex-jumper-2-wire-connector#That site indicates the connector is used for a fan.
Fan control is what the motherboard does.  So those connectors should be part of the motherboard, not the power supply.
right good point, except I don't think mother boards have a port for (Male) 3 pin Molex pins. You gave me an idea to SEE if I can get a cable converter that GOES from 3 pin (female) Molex to 4 pin (female) Molex. 

Which I think I found it..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3pin-Fan-Female-to-4pin-Molex-Male-Female-Adapter-Cable-NEW-/290973230597?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item43bf5b2605That will work. It looks like it does 12 volt.

I BOUGHT a 2GB Kingston SECURE Digital - Standard Memory Card and got some photos printed and the quality didn't seem very good even though they were taken in high resolution. Would  a cheap memory card actually affect the quailty of photos when printed. (They looked fine on my PC). I am thinking of buying a 2GB SanDisk Extreme® III SD™ Card. It the best one they have. I KNOW this would work much faster then my cheaper one but would it actually affect or improve the quality of my photos?

Details of CARDS are... Secure Digital - Standard Memory Card

http://www.kingston.com/flash/sd_mmc_home.asp

SanDisk Extreme® III SD™ Card

http://www.sandisk.com/Products/Catalog(1039)-SanDisk_SD_Cards.aspx

Thanks in advance. (All info I read just seems to GO on about speed and not actual picture quality). No, picture quality is determined by the printer and software settings.

My PC was running fine till yesterday. But when i wke up today and tried to boot it,nothing happenend.as if there is no power at all.none of the fans moved nor any led came to life,nothing at all.then i OPENED up the cpu box.checked the connections,ram etc. But still nothing moved.it seemed to me that problem is with power suply.but then i noticed SOMETHING peculier.when i oressed the power button,my motherboard fan moved a bit..just a bit..not even one rotation..probably only 2 degrees.for further diagnoses,i tried a dew more things.second observable things happened when i removed both of my RAMs.when i pressed power button without ram,the cpu fan did two-three rotation..complete rotation this time.third noticable thing happened when i disconnected the power cable of hrd disk.all the fans and leds came to life..cpu sounded as it generally does..there was power in dvd writer.i thought i could boot linux from my cd..but sadly it didnt boot.screen showed-"A bootable devicd has not been detected.please refer to the product guide at http:/support.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop"...and yes..when i reconnect the hard drive..the situation becomes as it was...like no power..sort of dead pc.
And yes..i wud like to inform..its i3 DH61HO classic series..i hav four gb ram..and not any graphic card installed other than the one which comes inbuilt.and hrd disk is of seagate.please help me.I suggest you replace the power supplyThere is a update. After trying a lot of things.i could boot linux from my cd drive.actually booting from optical discs was disabled.but i cd do it only when the power cable to my hard disk is not connected.as soon as i connect power cable to my hard disk.its dead...like no power..the motherboard fan makes two rotations perhaps..rest doesnt even make a slight movement.and as i said..as i remove my power supply to hard drive..pc springs to life.and i hv successfully booted linux.i posted it on yahoo answers as well.one man suggested that the power to my hard disk might not be enough.can it be so?or is the hard drive the culprit.
Ps-cables are fine..i have tried new ones as well.As i said...i3 ...its 2.99 ghz ..i hd 32 bit win 8...i wd hv tld u a lot mre abt modrboard..bt i neither hv d box NR d pc to check d specs..i wrte d name f series above..might be f sm help..i hv no ext graphics card...ddr3 4 gb ram..is dr nyyhing else u need to know...i wipl try my best to tell u Quote from: Geek-9pm on February 02, 2015, 11:34:17 PM

Ignore the above post if your PC is worth LESS than $300.
BTW: What are the specs for your PC?

The First One Is : http://goo.gl/fcgQ5W

Or

The Second One : http://goo.gl/ZjGYSq

Please Help Me And Tell Me Which One To Buy  If the choice is between the two here only, I would pick the Intel package and instead of getting the 5400rpm 1TB drive, instead get the 7200rpm drive of the other build for faster load times.

Interesting name btw... based on the sites provided it looks like your not in Colorado  Which 1 is faster AMD or Intel ? because i checked the chart i saw the AMD was more higher 
The 2nd one is AMD The 1st one is Intel.

BTW The 2nd one comes with Windows 7 the 8-core is faster however the Core i5 system will allow for you to upgrade later to a better Core i7 that exceeds the performance of the AMD FX-8350.

I own a AMD FX-8350 and the problem I have is that the motherboard I have is now maxed out with it. So there is no upgrade path later on with this motherboard that I have. Many of the motherboards that support the 8350 state the 8350 as being the maximum processing power supported. So unless their is a bios flash for newer CPU support, going with the AMD you may find out later on that when wanting to upgrade you will have to replace the motherboard as well. While the Core i5 system could take a Core i7 which is faster when more processing power is needed.

The Core i5 should be plenty of processing power and able to run just about any game out there with that video card combination.

Lastly the motherboard paired up with the INTEL is better than the AMD Asrock motherboard. Asrock boards are made with cheap parts and I dont trust them.Ok, So tell me what i put in my pc so i make one, give me the details.

choose from the 2 website and combine for me the best pc.

But i dont have money to buy the i7 thats why i was thinking about the AMDIt's not an i7...it's an i5...What is your budget?1115 USD

You can add like only few dollars more

Yes i know moderator but he said i7 or do u mean i can upgrade my i5 to i7 by just installing on pc and dont need to pay money ?

The max is 1225 USD

No more .-.

but please count from the 2nd website it may sell cheaper maybe expensive my money is from 4100 AED to 4500 AED if you can count from the website i will be thankful to you.AMD with 8 core has a whole alot of power not only on gaming but you will benefit from it when using heavy threaded applications, which newer and newer games are begining to take advantage of, regarding your choice you might look at this one, price difference is huge,yest they are almost the same spec, and it has both windows 7 i believe.. BASING only on this two websites www.computerpad.ae obviously SELLS cheaper than the competitor. If you compare prices..

http://computerpad.ae/product/standard-build-1/ If the choice is just those two computers , here is how I see it : Intel cpu i5 is slightly better but hard drive and video card is better in AMD computer . If you want to play without upgrades for now , take the AMD , if you want to upgrade in the future take the Intel . Either Cpu will be good for a number of YEARS . The Intel computer will use a lot less power than the AMD computer if that is a concern . Both computers are close with the AMD slightly better but a little more expensive . In the end I would take the Intel because it is cheaper and uses less power and the average user would not notice the difference in any games . And like others have said change the low power hard drive 5900 RPM to a hard drive 7200 rpm for better gaming .That build from computerpad i believe has a better casing and power supply, your first choice may come with generic power supply as it is packaged with the casing which is not recommended as it doesnt last long based on my experience, or will not give you true rating of power..Forgot to mention R9 280x vs GTX 750ti

http://gpuboss.com/gpus/Radeon-R9-280X-vs-GeForce-GTX-750-Ti

the performance on games is without a question much better using r9 280x with the amd processor, try putting r9 280x on the intel and youll see the real price difference, the author is ASKING which is better for gaming right?nuff saidSo im seeing the table have changed so do you guys recommend me to buy the 2nd pc ?

because , today i have talked to the man he told me we are selling the parts very cheap

i really want the 2nd pc on my experience because i also thought it was better   

The Intel Core i5 CPU in the first system is better than the AMD FX when it comes to games, however, the second system's video card is significantly better which makes a bigger difference in games.  Therefore I would recommend the second system for when it comes down to raw gaming performance. Quote

today i have talked to the man he told me we are selling the parts very cheap

Hi, I have Adata HV610 and it worked fine until today.I took it with me to a holiday and then it stopped working.When I hook it up, it STARTS spinning, but the flashlight won't flash and computer isn't recognizing it.It has USB 3.0 cable and I think it's broken.I have Win 7 and I tried it on Win 8 also but it's not working.It's just spinnig and vibrating but nothing else.I'm totally desperate, I have 300 Gb of files on it and they are pretty important.Need any type of help.If you think cable is broken try swapping out cable and see what happens.

It is no longer in warranty?
There is a small possibility that either the power supply of the USB interface has failed. If so, you can remove the drive and user an everygency apater to get the data off the drive.
Universal IDE/SATA USB adapter.
Like above is from Amazon. The things is super cheap and even if it only works for a week it is quick  way to get your data back.

Works for me, hope it works for you.





Well I have tried another cable, but it's not working neither.And yes, it is still in warranty, but I don't know, if I get my data back when I get it repaired.What are the ways to get the data from it?The cost of taking it to a tech is more that n what you want to pay. Many techs in the USA will change $35 up just to look at your problem. A data recovery service might want at least $100 to recover the data.

The super cheap adapter I mentioned is what a tech would use to see if the drive works. It costs under $20 and is, IMO, a fair investment.I have three of them. They are good enough for emergency work.

If you have a Desktop computer, you can open it up and connect the suspect drive as a slave drive and see if windows can find the data.In ADDITION to what Geek shared you also have to consider if returning the drive if you dont mind any of the data getting intercepted by any rogue or shady individuals. If you have any data at all on the drive that is extremely confidential then its best not to ship the drive back to the manufacturer under warranty but instead take a loss and sledge hammer the drive and recycle the metal.

When shipping drives back under warranty they generally CONFIRM that your drive is covered by warranty and ship you a totally different drive, usually a refurb drive as a replacement such as Seagate.

Some manufacturers offer a service to recover your data to the replacement at an additional fee. Seagate and Western Digital have offered me this service when sending drives back under warranty. I have never used this data recovery service. I have also decided that contents on a drive although covered by warranty was not worth the risk of a data leak shipping it back and having no control of the wear ABOUTS of the drives disposal to which shady individuals would acquire it in say china and the information lifted off of it and stole for illegal purposes. So I have taken a vice and hammer to drives before that were under warranty that failed and just bought a new one for less than $100 since its best to just buy a new HDD for less than $100 vs LOSE a lot more if someone lifted confidential info off of it that could be used illegally. OK let's say, that I don't get it repaired. Is there any way to get my data from it at home?Not likely if a 2nd cable didn't work...did you try it on a different SATA connection on the MBoard ? ?
Here is some  pictures of your drive dismantled https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2795423/all
It is impossible to remove the hard drive itself without invalidating the warrantee.
I have seen a lot of these drives fail with the usb3.0 to sata interface failing, the crystal seems to fail.
So if you remove the drive and connect it to a desktop computer or one of the adapters suggested there is a good chance the drive will be accessible. Quote

the crystal seems to fail.

Running Macbook Pro 10.9.5 with Canon MX452 on wirelss. Ink up to date; I printed an email, but other items just sit there for HOURS. This is new. been working fine.
THis seemed to happen when ink was showing low.Canon MX452 is a popular printer.
Do you have other printers or things that use it?
Wireless connections have the potential to fail due to unseen factors.
Still, if the printer is within a few meters(yards) of the wireless router, there should be no problem.
Can you do a direct connection with USB?
If it is still under warranty, you may wish to consider a RETURN. Substitution is the most effective way to troubleshoot this kind of problem.

Geek after dark, thanx, but still no go. I have quit and unplugged - downloaded a new copy of driver; restarted the computer; printer is same locale as computer, which reads WiFi fine. I did connect directly after your suggestion. I keep getting "Printer is in use", and the scale shows quarter INCH of blue then sits there.So if it is not a Wi-Fi issue, then you think it is the ink agreement.
So the next logical step is to try new ink and see if that helps.
Ink management problems have been documented with many printers. It seems the manufacturers  want you to buy ink even when is is not needed.
Here is a very interesting news release from Epson.
Epson showcases latest Ink Tank System printers in the UAE
Reading the article you will see that it is an admission that the in system needed some work.  Of course, the spin is to put the blame on OTHERS. Yet they admit a better design is better for all. They don't specify the fault of the old design.

If you find that the ink management is stopping the printer, look for a workaround using refilled ink cartridges. The people who do refilling KNOW how to disable that ink management thing.
Hope that helps some. 

Here is an old reference:
Stink over ink cartridgesSorry, I did not mention 2 brand new ink cartridges. I have been refilling my  own for some time, but opted for new ones.As mentioned, there  was a lot of rant about this awkhile back.
http://www.fixyourownprinter.com/forums/printer/33219
HP Business Inkjet 2300 - Bypass INK EMPTY message!!!! Ink refills...
The above website has more info about how the big printers companies want to suck money from your wallet.
Quote

HP designed this chip on the cartridge that counts the days till death, or expiration. The empty cartridge death, which halts printing operations is when the fluid runs dry. It seems reasonable enough to understand it should stop but, if you refill it like I did then you have a problem if the printer thinks it's still empty. It won't let you print until you replace the cartridge with a brand new expensive cartridge. I REFUSE to pay those prices. SO, what I did is this: I worked for hours to find this resolve so I hope you all appreciate it! :-)

Have a LENOVO 10080 H415 desktop and WISH to swap out current card with a ATI Radeon Sapphire HD 3870 just because I want to run another monitor on my desk for a driving game wheel and pedal rig that I built.
Other option would be to get a splitter and adapter for the current card but I need to get some male/female plugs for that to work.
Main board is a Lenovo Win 8 STD MM DPK IPG serial #: ES10710749
The Sapphire card is just something I have hanging around the house that has the 2 monitor HD plugs that I want on the rear.
ALREADY have a monitor.
Just do not want to goof up the MB.
Emailed Lenovo and have not heard back from them for 5 days now.
Thanks for any BEST steps.
Thom

Hi,
My school is GIVING me one of http://h20386.www2.hp.com/AustraliaStore/Product.aspx?pdetail=P338897& to use for work and stuff but i can take it home after school and use it there etc..  I'm sure you all know how this works.

As you can see in the link the GPU is a CPU integrated one, which is fine for office work but i was wondering what else it can do in a gaming point of view, my expectations aren't high for this but i'll list some games i like to play on occasion and i was hoping someone could tell me if the laptop will run it at a decent framerate.

1. Minecraft
2. Grand Theft Auto: San Andreas
3. Grand Theft Auto: 4
4. Surgeon Simulator
5. Garry's Mod
6. South Park The Stick Of Truth

Thank you in ADVANCE to anyone who can help me out. I have goolge searched it and couln't find anything related to my needs.The HD4400 GPU is obviously not a gaming GPU, as you've said, but it's capable of playing older games, or some NEWER games on low settings.
GTA4 is very optimistic, I doubt you'll get that very playable.
I believe the rest of the games on your list should be OK, you'll have to play around with the settings and see what works.  It helps that you'll be playing on low resolution (assuming you're not using an external monitor?  If so then you'll have trouble playing games at higher resolutions).  The 430 is a nice laptop, too.

I will however say that you should check what your school policy is regarding personal use and particularly installing software on that MACHINE.  It really depends on their setup but in most cases I'd be surprised if this was allowed or indeed if you even had the user rights to install additional software, but different places have different policies.Thanks for reply

They have said that games and other apps are okay cos it has their anti VIRUS on it.
I have no plans to use monitor so that does help.Since this is not capable of playing High-end games if so the performance of that game will not be good better can try with other.Ignore the above post.

I ran programs at very high settings with no problems, but after half a year the FAN speed gets VERY high, is there any way i can FIX this?
I have a total of 7 fans inside my computer. I don't know if this is normal, because 7 fans is a lot, HOWEVER is high fan speed an issue or just an ANNOYANCE? Also, I do not know if 55 Celsius is a lot. Someone please give me some information! Thanks55c on CPU or GPU?

What is room temp when computer is 55C?

Most common cause of temp and fan speed increase is if there is hair/dust coating the airways of the heatsink or thermal compound is not bonded well. If a heatsink was removed and reapplied without new thermal compound you can run into this issue as well because the bond was broken and then heatsink reapplied and now there are air POCKETS in the thermal compount making for an uneven or not so thermally bonded heatsink to CPU or GPU etc.

Lastly what are the system hardware specs for CPU, GPU, motherboard etc, heatsink type etc?The room temp is 72 F, however i have a ceiling fan on, also i cleaned my computer the day that I posted this question to see if that was the problem. I did not reapply thermal compound either, and it's the CPU that is 55c also, sometimes the fans go absolutely insane fast when i start the computer, however i just restart and it's fine. I don't know the my specs since I got it as a gift. However i do know that they are good because i can run games at ultra with ease and still have high fps.

My computer (an Asus) MAKES a repetitive clicking noise when it is not LOADING something such as netflix, youtube, antivirus check and so on. When a VIDEO is done loading or whatever it starts making the noise shortly afterwards. It starts clicking almost immediately when using Office programs, Spotify ect.
It begins about five minutes after I have turned on the computer if I do not access the internet and 15 minutes if I do.
My computer has always made the sound (almost 2 years) and I have sent it to be repaired once - they changed the hard drive, but it did not make a difference

Does anyone know what the problem is and how to FIX it? It is REALLY annoying to have a computer that sounds like a ticking bomb!Sounds like the "clik of death"...your HDD is failing...
Backup all you need immediately and quit using it til that's taken care of.
But it has been a problem for almost two years - ever since I bought it, the harddrive has been changed, but the noise is still there? Nothing seems to be wrong with the computer other than the noise.