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Just opened up my Corsair hx750:
It came w/ 4 SATA connectors.

But I believe it came with 2 floppy drive and 4 MOLEX connectors?

What the heck are floppy drive connectors used for?  Old school dinosaur floppy drives?
And molex connectors used to be used a while ago before molex correct?From Corsair.com:
http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hx-series-hx750-power-supply-750-watt-80-plus-gold-certified-modular-psu
This is what you mean?
To be backwards compatible a replacement PSU should have all the connectors that are used in past and present computers. The connectors add little to the cost.  Did you specify tart you did not want the older connectors?


Don't worry about electricity dripping our of the unused connectors. Stephen Hawkins says it is not important. 
I have seen the small floppy drive power connectors actually used for other devices other than floppy drives that they are more commonly used for.

Here are some devices I have seen use that plug:

5.25" Bay Temp/Fan Controller with display ( about 8 years ago )
Cheap Communication Conversion Boards ( SATA to IDE ) . The better ones use 4 pin molex power.
5.25" Bay Card Reader and USB Ports. (* It used this floppy power connection as a 5V booster for powering USB devices at front panel vs powered through motherboards USB 5V power )
Iomega Zip Drives ( about 10 years ago )

Other than that, this connection is rarely used anymore, and I have used it myself for adding additional fans inside my case for airflow in which I cut the plug off, wire a fan or 2 off of this power tap direct and insulate it with shrink tube such as a system that I upgraded for my daughter with a passive heatsink video card and the video card was so hot without airflow that you could get a blister if touching the heatsink surface. I know this because I was curious as to the temp of the GPU heatsink and TOUCHED it and I burned the tip of my finger on the heatsink. Adding a 80mm fan tie wrapped to the inside of the frame and blowing air across the passive heatsink made the video card run way cooler and then when touching it later it was just warm to touch but not burning hot. Video card in her system was a PowerColor AMD ATI Radeon HD5450 with 1GB, a $30 video card which was way better than the Geforce 6150SE integrated that the Dell has in it.Both floppy and molex connectors are still commonly used.  Molex for example are very regularly used for things such as case fans and fan controllers.  I've also seen things such as card readers that use floppy connectors.  There isn't really a reason to leave them out just because they aren't used as often. Quote from: Geek-9pm on April 04, 2015, 08:54:42 AM

Stephen Hawkins

What the heck are floppy drive connectors used for?  Old school dinosaur floppy drives?

And molex connectors used to be used a while ago before molex correct?

So I'm in need of a new HEADSET soon. Something that'll be accomodating to a larger than AVERAGE head and glasses but still comfortable. I need to find something that'll provide reasonable sound quality (for music and teamspeak) and a microphone, but it doesn't have to be anything too fancy. I'd like to stay under $100.

Does anyone got any decent recommendations? Oh, and it's gotta be wired and USB plug-n-use kind of thing. Quote

Does anyone got any decent recommendations? Oh, and it's gotta be wired and USB plug-n-use kind of thing.

hi,

My PC is restarting again and again without any warning. I unchecked "automatic  restart" from advanced system settings but still the problem is going on.

there is no beep or bluescreen.

I tested the memory, checked disk for errors, hard disk everything. but, still I am unable to FIND the error.

Please, anyone know what is going on?

System configuration:
Processor : Intel i3
mother board: Intel H61
Graphic card: NVidia (2GB video ram)
4 GB RAM STICK.
Operating system : windows 7 ultimate

thanksHow long have you had this computer?
When did this begin?
Did you or anybody make changes to the BIOS?
Have you scanned your computer for any kind of virus or MALWARE?

hi,

I bought it one month ago.

I scanned it for virus and malwares. nothing found

restarting BEGAN after 20 days of purchase. Nobody touched the BIOS.

I went to the computer shop they were unable to tell me what is going wrong.

thanksIf you bought it one month ago i personally would return it under warranty and demand a replacement...This sounds like the same problem I had a long time ago that you helped me with, and it turned out my CMOS battery had gone bad I would try that they are fairly cheap to buy too Quote from: patio on APRIL 01, 2015, 05:22:36 PM

If you bought it one month ago i personally would return it under warranty and demand a replacement...

Attached is a screenshot of my internal HD I use to store data on.  Why is there such a huge disparity between advertised capacity and apparent availability of actual HD space?

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]If the DRIVE is actually a 1.5TB Drive, than it was not partitioned to use the full space. You can observe the actual disk space in Disk Management (Windows key+R, "diskmgmt.msc").

To my unfamiliar eye, I do not see any difference in what the Disk Management utility tells me (see new attachment) and what the first screenshot I attached tells me. If it truly is a partition problem and not a misrepresentation on the part of WD ie. saying it's a 1.5TB HD instead of a 1TB HD, is there a way to repartition the HD without losing current data? How do I know what the capacity truly is?

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]The drive is a 1TB drive, not a 1.5TB drive. The Label "WD Caviar Black 1.5TB" suggests it is 1.5TB but you would have set the label at some point for it to say that.

-Do you still have the original packaging?
-What is the model number of the drive? You check the model number either on the sticker on the HDD itself, or  via Device Manager (Windows Key+R, devmgmt.msc, it should be under "Disk Drives", likely CONTAINING "WD" somewhere in the model)
Quote from: BC_Programmer on May 11, 2015, 11:32:31 AM

but you would have set the label at some point for it to say that.

What do you mean about "setting the label"?
It turns out I apparently ordered (and installed!!) a 1TB HD. I have the original box and googled the model number (yup - 1TB  ). I also found my order history on Amazon, where I bought it. (Yup - 1TB HD  ). I obviously thought I had a 1.5TB HD but didn't pay attention. And that assumption has only been reinforced by the properties dialogue box for my E: drive which shows: WD Caviar Black 1.5TB (see first attachment). Why is it showing up as 1.5Tb and not 1TB 

Hi. Because of dust, I took off my fan and heat sink  ( which is  like this one )   to my ASRock 970 Extreme 3 MOBO, with an AMD 6350 CPU, which was running fine. The cpu came off with it (even though the lever on the mobo was down),  which  i later separated from the HS for CLEANING. I cleaned out the dust from the HS and cleaned off the old thermal paste, and inspected the cpu which looked fine.

I then could not find the thermal paste i  thought i had,   but (i read how some ran without it temporarily)  for the time being i wanted to see if it would at least  run.      However, after seating the cpu (arrow matches top left) snugly, i could not gt the top HS latch to connect, though it was close. I tried many times, and finally loosed the 4 screws a bit to the plate the HS latches   to, and then they snapped into place, and i tightened the screws snugly.

But on power up only the fans will run, and the cpu fans   speed adjusted  up for the few seconds i ran it (not more than a minute),  but just a black screen, and no kybrd or mobo   lights or beep codes. The hard drive kicks in, but no activity after that.

I reseated the cpu and HS again, and also cleared the CMOS, but it remains the same.

What think ye??
 You cannot run that CPU without thermal paste applied properly...
Hence the shutdowns...Thanks.     Some say they have, YET i am not even getting a post screen. But i will apply paste after  i get some. The way I see that thread is analogous to people saying "I went into a hard hat area without wearing a hard hat and nothing bad happened, therefore nobody needs to wear a hard hat in hard hat AREAS"Thanks, and I understand. I was just wondering why i could not even begin to see if anything would happen, as  if surely would not heat up enough in about 10 secs to prevent any screen output.

If it still will not POST after trying it with a quality paste, the question would be whether it is the mobo or cpu. I have read many stories of NEW mobos only getting the fans to run, but that could be due to poor cpu connection.

Many AMD CPU's will completely fry in under 20 seconds...look it up... Quote from: daniel1212 on April 09, 2015, 09:30:19 AM

Thanks, and I understand. I was just wondering why i could not even begin to see if anything would happen, as  if surely would not heat up enough in about 10 secs to prevent any screen output.
If it still will not POST after trying it with a quality paste, the question would be whether it is the mobo or cpu. I have read many stories of new mobos only getting the fans to run, but that could be due to poor cpu connection.

Hey! I get random BSOD:s from time to time, but most often when i leave the COMPUTER and it goes into sleepmode and i try to reboot it again. Got textfile from bluescreenview, any help with this would be greatly appreciated


==================================================
Dump File         : 041015-4664-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 2015-04-10 19:49:10
Bug Check String  : IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x0000000a
Parameter 1       : 00000000`0006c408
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000002
Parameter 3       : 00000000`00000001
Parameter 4       : fffff800`02c93476
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+74ec0
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® OPERATING System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.18741 (win7sp1_gdr.150202-1526)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+74ec0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\041015-4664-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 4
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 275 768
Dump File Time    : 2015-04-10 19:49:37
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 040315-4742-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 2015-04-03 17:44:12
Bug Check String  : IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x0000000a
Parameter 1       : 00000009`00000008
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000002
Parameter 3       : 00000000`00000001
Parameter 4       : fffff800`02c94476
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+74ec0
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.18741 (win7sp1_gdr.150202-1526)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+74ec0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\040315-4742-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 4
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 275 768
Dump File Time    : 2015-04-03 17:45:07
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 032315-4992-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 2015-03-24 00:10:06
Bug Check String  : DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x000000d1
Parameter 1       : fffff880`0487c1ec
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000002
Parameter 3       : 00000000`00000008
Parameter 4       : fffff880`0487c1ec
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+74ec0
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.18741 (win7sp1_gdr.150202-1526)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+74ec0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\032315-4992-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 4
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 275 768
Dump File Time    : 2015-03-24 00:10:59
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 031815-3588-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 2015-03-18 08:28:57
Bug Check String  : DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x000000d1
Parameter 1       : fffff880`040721ec
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000002
Parameter 3       : 00000000`00000008
Parameter 4       : fffff880`040721ec
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+74ec0
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.18741 (win7sp1_gdr.150202-1526)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+74ec0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\031815-3588-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 4
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 275 768
Dump File Time    : 2015-03-18 08:29:39
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 031415-5101-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 2015-03-14 21:33:12
Bug Check String  : IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x0000000a
Parameter 1       : 00000000`00000008
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000002
Parameter 3       : 00000000`00000001
Parameter 4       : fffff800`02aa8a76
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+7fd00
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.18741 (win7sp1_gdr.150202-1526)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+7fd00
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\031415-5101-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 4
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 275 768
Dump File Time    : 2015-03-14 21:34:01
==================================================

Just curious to hear what everyones favorite 140mm case fan is? SP and AF.

 Also what dB does it run . And can you hear that from outside the case when the case is closed?

 Im looking to add an extra 140mm fan in the case for more AirFlow. But I don't WANT it to be too loud. Ive read that 15dB can be HEARD outside the case. I also read that 25dB cannot be heard from outside the case? Fan manufacturer's noise ratings are mostly BS, they don't use a standardised way of measuring sound.  The only resource I use for noise tests is http://www.silentpcreview.com/ - have a look on there and see what they have to say.  Whether you'll be able to hear the fans over anything else depends on several things - how good your hearing is, what the noise level of the room is LIKE, and something you can't tell from any manufacturer's specs, whether the fan motor's noise is high pitched/annoying or not.  20dB of high pitched whining or buzzing is MUCH more noticeable than 25dB of air MOVEMENT.

3 days ago my PC stopped posting...no beep, nothing.  2 days ago, same THING.  Yesterday, it posted (I didn't do anything) but the resolution was at the lowest level and wouldn't change.  After turning it off, it wouldn't post again.

Suspecting the video cards (Geforce 8800 GT SLI), I removed them both and then installed nr. 2 board.  I got 1 long beep, 3 short ones - no video card.  I then installed card nr. 1 and it booted however I still have terrible resolution that won't change.  I'm having trouble just writing this.  I tried card nr. 2 a second time there was no post, no beeps so it is obviously bad.  It looks like card nr. 1 is OK except for the resolution.

Do I need new drivers for this card?  I've tried to download them but the resolution is so bad it's very difficult to know what you're doing.  If this needs to be done, can you give me the step-by-step procedure please?

Or is this another problem?

Windows XP sp3
ASUS A8N SLI Premium mb
AMD CPU Athlon 64 FX-60 DualCore 2600 MHz nVidia nForce4 chipset
BIOS Award Phoenix 8/10/06
3G memory

thank youWhen RUNNING with just 1 video card are you switching the flip board from SLI enabled to SLI disabled?

If you go to NVidia's website they have an app that you can run that will AUTODETECT the correct driver for your video card. If the app doesn't work for some reason with Windows XP which it should still work with it, you can navigate to the Geforce 8 Series and download that driver and INSTALL that.

What is strange though is that the driver you already had running should work with the SINGLE card without a video driver update. I am almost wondering if this strange poor graphics of single card is the result of that SLI flip board not being changed in which there is a malfunction when its seeking the other board that isn't present and so it runs in a poor low end video resolution.I went into Device Manager, right clicked on the 8800 gt card, and selected update driver.

It updated, rebooted, and now everything is back to normal - just a bit dimmer than before.

Thanks!

Sorry if this is not in the correct category, I unplugged my pc running WINDOWS xp when it was in hibernation. Now it will not start, fans don't run and there is no SIGNS of LIFE at all.
Is it a giant paper WEIGHT now?
THANX for any help

Has anyone tried putting 2 fans back to back.  Both pushing air the same direction?



My case has an intake fan, but you cant see it from INSIDE the case.  The interior is red and black theme.  Just wondering what would happen if I stacked another fan ( corsair AF 140mm red/black ) directly behind the non visable intake fan. 
Because the fan's won't be spinning perfectly in sync all you'll get is more noise and less airflow.  Stacking fans is sometimes used in servers where mega high speed 40mm fans can be placed one in front of the other, but that's more for redundancy.An interesting article at Overclockers.com explains why you generally get just more noise. It is about using stacked fans on a CPU heatsink, but the reasoning applies to case fans too. The guy did some tests, and got some improvement by using two different brand fans spinning in opposite directions but he concludes it is not WORTH doing.

http://www.overclockers.com/fan-stacking-myth-vs-reality/

I tried it once but it made more noise because although the same size 80mm fans, both pushing air in the same direction, because the blades were not teamed ( physically joined ) wind sheer happened at the close air gap between both fan blades, as well as the plastic frame of the sandwiched muffin fan and it made a humming noise as one blade was sheering off past the other fans blade as well as the front fan blade was very near the backside plastic frame that holds the guts of the other fan center to its frame.

I suppose if you could find 2 fans that spun reverse direction to each other you could team them by a perfectly centered epoxy to join both exposed fan faces and this way they would be physically teamed and would be quieter than that of 2 fans that with an RPM difference you get the noise of the opposing blades sheering the air between their air gaps.

Most computer fans I have come across spin in the same direction, and its not as easy as reversing the polarity to the fan because 99.9% of the fans out there are brushless and PWM is used with a circuit board that requires power only in its correct polarity and this board pulses fixed magnets in the inside of the fan blade from a set of coils that are in close proximity with the fixed magnet to get the fan to spin. Reversing polarity will cause a smoke show or will kill the fan.

If your looking for good airflow and quiet your options are large low rpm fans that move vast amounts of air quietly or the squirrel cage type that use centrifugal force to drive the air channeled. Laptops, servers, and some desktop systems use fans of this type. They come in different CFM airflow and RPM rate of spin. I use these slot fans for adding airflow and keeping systems quiet. http://www.firstpr.com.au/sys-admin/Silent-Hard-Drive/two-fans.jpg

Hello,
When I press shift 2 to get an "at" sign, I get a " parenthesis response instead of 'at' so I can't type my email address.
I am running Microsoft 8.1 on a new ASUS NOTEBOOK.
Can anyone help, please?If you can get the sign when you press the key with a double quote " then you probably need to select a US English keyboard layout.
Thank you, Salmon,  however I don't know which is the double quote key (is it the one with " and ' on it)? If so how do I change the keyboard?
Regards, Quote from: Susan Brown on April 11, 2015, 03:03:23 AM

I don't know which is the double quote key (is it the one with " and ' on it)?

Not yet, eating dinner   

Spent a lot of $ on my build.  Has not been put together yet.  But in the coming weeks I will get it done.



I didn't have a budget in mind when I started.  But if I did I WAY exceeded it.



What's the best way to protect my computers ( 2 ), and all my monitors & TV?



Surge protectors work by stopping X electricity from reaching your DEVICE?  PREVENTING failure?  Is a surge protector all I need / want?



Assuming I need 8-10 outlets.  And I have 2 separate wall outlets to work with 6' apart from each other.  What's the best way to do this?  1 massive 8-10 outlet surge protector?   The amount of protection from a surge protector is measured in JOULES right?  The more joules the better?  What WOULD be a good amount of joules? 



And does anyone have any brand/model recommendations?



Thank you
Yes, surge protection is a very good idea. The quality of surge protectors varies widely.  You can search the Intent for objective articles about the need for surefge protections.

One consideration is about how power enters your HOME or office. The electrical panel may or may not have surge protection built in. You could ask a certified electrician or take a look for yourself. Often they do not. But you can add surge protections to the electrical panel.
See these two videos.

Surge protection devices consume very little power in normal operation. So redundant protection is a piratical choice.

Of special concern are other wires that enter the house. In some cases these other wires may be hit by a lightning strike . The surge protection in the well socket does little to protect a TV connected to an outdoor cable, unless the cable company installed proper protection.

References:
https://www.portlandgeneral.com/safety_outages/surge_protection/understanding_surges_spikes.aspx
And...
Surge Protectors for Your HDTV

Hi,
I have a old laptop from Compaq. Its a 6715b. I am working on this for a friend so here is the story. It had a copy of Windows 7 ultimate on it. This machine kept shutting off. It would just slam for no reason. After pulling his data off I was able to take a look at it.

I found that the OS was corrupted because of the machine just shutting off so many times. I SPRAYED it out with air in case of heat and reloaded it with Windows 7 Enterprise. This didn't really make a big change except it didn't seem to shut off as much. I looked around online and found some people talking about how this machine had a problem with just shutting off. Also how the machine had a problem with charging the battery.

I am thinking about changing the motherboard and seeing if this helps. If I can get a new version of the board maybe the battery problem and the random shut off would be fixed.

Does anyone else have a better idea before I buy a motherboard?

Thanks

  Throwing Windows 7 Ultimate and then Enterprise on it ... hopefully these are legal copies in use since this laptop initially came with Vista or XP, and usually if it was upgraded to Ultimate, it would REMAIN at Ultimate vs switching editions like this.

http://www.cnet.com/products/hp-compaq-6715b-15-4-turion-64-x2-tl-64-vista-business-2-gb-ram-120-gb-hdd-series/specs/

I wouldn't invest much money into this laptop. Its got an older CPU that is very slow compared to todays standards and the SATA controller is only a SATA-150 and not a SATA-300. I wouldn't invest more than like $30 into this laptop and the main board is probably going to cost you upwards of $50. If your lucky you might be able to find a same model for sale that works that has NO OS on ebay for like $50 and retain your original laptop as spare parts to support this other like model laptop. But there is the risk of spending $50 + shipping and ending up with a bunch of other problems in which you are immediately having to mix and match parts between the 2 of them to make 1 working computer.

Abrupt shutdowns can be Heat Related such as the thermal compound or thermal pad is no longer bonded correctly with heatsink and so it overheats and shuts down, or a Cooling Fan is stopping and causing system to shutdown, or as you mentioned the battery might not be charging or its drawing a lot from the power pack and the power pack struggles to both keep the system running at its load to run + is trying to charge a paperweight battery that has a shorted cell.

You can try powering it without a battery installed and see if it behaves. This requires the power supply/power pack to be powering the laptop by use of outlet power.

Here is one I found on ebay if your looking for a potential like system replacement or to mix & match good parts to make a working computer if its in FACT a main board issue. http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Compaq-6715b-15-4-Laptop-AMD-Turion-64-X2-2-GB-Incomplete-5154-/181738125335?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a506fb817



Hi,
Thanks for the answer.

I got it with ultimate on it. After getting a look at it I just pulled the data off and WIPED it clean to put enterprise on it. I have been playing around with it and found a ROM paq from Compaq. I installed it and the machine seemed to work better. At least it can do a restart now without it just slamming and not coming backup.

It will not run without being plugged in. I see a message saying 98% full but not charging when I put my mouse over the battery. By the way the battery is new or about 3 days old. I just got it for this machine. $16 from Amazon.





hmm... new battery and the new battery when at 98% charge will not power the laptop. Sounds like a defective battery or charging circuit for the laptop.I am thinking it is the charging circuit but I am going to give this a try....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lx62t6qZ34U

I will let you know how I make out.



I shut the machine down and pulled the battery. Plugged it back in and deleted the power stuff in the device manager. Shut the machine down and put the battery back. It did start to charge and even showed the battery at 98%. I pulled the AC cable and after 2 mins the machine shut down. I am not sure why.

Thanks
Where are you getting these copies of Windows from?  Ultimate is twice the price of Home Premium and provides almost no benefit and Enterprise is only available to large institutions, not retail sale.Ultimate, as I said in a post above, was on the machine when I got it. I know nothing about the who, what, where it came from. And one of the first things I did was to format the drive so this doesn't enter into things. Its long gone and doesn't matter with the problem.

Enterprise I have because I work in IT. I am repairing a laptop for a guy here at work. It is a company machine.

I hope that this explains things.

I am going to try to figure out why the charging problem it still hanging around on this machine.

Thanks

I had to put this away to do other things for the last few days. I am going to go back to it.

Here is what I have done so far. I have changed the battery. I calibrated the battery and it now charges normally. I also changed the CMOS battery. I had one extra so why not. The machine was sitting for a while. I have done all the updates and as long as you leave the machine plugged in it works fine. As soon as you unplug the charger the whole machine drops. You still have it unplugged and try to boot it and it starts to come up. You get about 5 seconds into the boot and it drops.

To me it seems that some how the machine never changes over to the battery. It is stuck on the AC charger.

Anyone have any ideas on how to get it to see the battery?

 To me it sounds like the battery is likely dead/dying. The battery is brand new and I have been able to let it run out once during the calibration. It read 2% when I started to do a full charge. I let it sit over night and then it read 100%. I pulled the AC plug and the machine shut down.

Just in case I am going to buy another battery. I will let you know how I make out.



The MBoard power jack may be the culprit here...You maybe right about the jack. Do you have a way to test it? I know that it does seem firm when I plug it into the laptop.

My Build: HTTP://pcpartpicker.com/p/khf8vK

I just recently built my pc mid January and it seems to always freeze at random times. When it freezes I can't do anything, can't move the mouse, so I have to force restart it. When it freezes what ever audio was playing in the background stutters. Sometimes I can run games for hours no problem but as soon as I try to run something else with the game it locks up it sometimes freezes when I'm on multiple webpages at once as well. I've TRIED everything I can think of. I've tested the cpu, RAM, hdd, re installed windows, updated all my drivers, CHECKED the eventlogs, everything. I know its not the graphics card because I had this issue before I added it to my build. I'd like to try all I can before resorting to taking it somewhere to get looked at. If anyone can suggest or help in any way it would greatly be appreciated I'm starting to lose hope

My laptop was working fine this morning when it came up with a message that there was a problem and it needed to restart. When it restarted it wouldn't let me log in (circle of doom for an hour) and I gave up and turned it off and then turned it on again. I tried to reload my work and it was really SLOW and sort of crashed (it wouldn't do anything). I tried to restart it but it spent another half hour with a restarting screen so I turned it off again. When I turned it back on the sound wasn't working and it takes ages to troubleshoot and when its finished it keeps saying the audio device isn't working (still says that when I put in headphones). Its been really slow every SINCE and won't load anything to do with the file explorer.
Please help!!!
I've got a Toshiba satellite and its on WINDOWS 8.11) What was the EXACT error message you got this morning?

2) Do you have an anti virus app installed? If so, please run a FULL system scan.

3) Also download and run a full system scan with MalwareBytes.

If you have any problem running the scans in REGULAR mode, see if you can run them in safe mode.It said something about a fault and that it would produce a report but it hasn't said anything else (sorry I wasn't really paying attention)Well, it was important and would have been very helpful to help troubleshoot - but okay.If the malware scans come back okay we'll try several other steps (clean boot, ram test, hd test). BTW, when you boot to safe mode does the system run better or is it still very slow?I'm really sorry - if its any help, it was green. I did a full scan with avg free and it said there was nothing but I've downloaded malwarebytes and its scanning now. ThanksI haven't tried safe mode - how do you do that?Reboot. As soon as the system boots begin tapping the F8 (function) key until you get to the advanced boot options screen. From there, choose "Safe Mode".Thank you so much for your help, it was a problem with my antivirus programme.Good to hear you've got it sorted out.

I am having a problem with my custom PC I built nearly a year ago. I have a water cooling loop installed and it is somewhat complicated. Anyway, one of the tubes (I am using hard acrylic tubing) had a small crack in it, so I drained my loop and went about cleaning everything, created a new piece of acrylic tubing for where the crack was and then putting it back together again. It turned into a slightly longer job as I got some new fans, lighting, etc.

Anyway, I put everything back together and fill the loop. Then I connect everything and turn on my computer.

On my monitor, the image is VERY distorted, with pixelation and wavy lines across the screen. I know it is not the monitor because I've tried it on a couple different monitors and it is the same.

At first I thought I might have a bad graphics card, so I first drained the loop again, removed the GPU, cleaned it and reseated it carefully. The same thing is still happening.

I can't possibly imagine how the GPU could have gone bad in the course of maybe three days. It worked perfectly when the computer was put together before and I haven't touched it until I put it back together yesterday. For the record, the GPU is watercooled as well. The only potential issue could be leaked coolant causing an issue? But I very much doubt that. It just doesn't make sense.

My question is whether you think this is a graphics card issue or if there are other THINGS that could be causing these symptoms?

Here are some photos that show the problem:

http://cdn.overclock.net/6/6f/900x900px-LL-6f6f4468_20150413_184333.jpeg

http://cdn.overclock.net/9/99/900x900px-LL-99c52cd0_20150413_184348.jpeg


Any help would be very appreciated.

I don't think it matters, but here are the specs of my computer

Corsair Obsidian 900D case
Intel Core i7 4930k
Asus Rampage IV Extreme
16gb G Skill 2400mhz RAM
EVGA Geforce 780 SC
500 Samsung 840 EVO SSD
3tb Western Digital HDD
4tb Western Digital HDD


Do yhou have ANY other graphics cards you could try?
Does the motherboard have a built-in VGA?
What is the coolant used in the cooling system.
Is it Ethylene Glycoll or similar liquid?



Quote from: Geek-9pm on April 14, 2015, 05:34:04 PM

Do yhou have ANY other graphics cards you could try?
Does the motherboard have a built-in VGA?
What is the coolant used in the cooling system.
Is it Ethylene Glycoll or similar liquid?

I have a Canon iRC3080i. I have recently had to take my PC BACK to factory settings. I have re-installed everything including the printer. I named my PC exactly the same as it was before.

The only thing I haven't been able to do is set up a scans FOLDER on my PC that the printer sends all scans to. I had a folder on my desktop but I don't know what the ACTUAL PATH was. I am using Windows 7.

Can anyone help?

MANY thanks

i am just about at the end of my rope with my comp. my os is win 7 32bit home premium. my problem started a few days ago and I really don't know why. I am baffled. autoplay in win 7 will not work with my cd-rw/dvd rom which is a Toshiba sd-r2312. I have been burning cd's and until 3 days ago when I try to put a cd in my rom I cannot view any contents of any cd whether it was made or store bought. when I put in a memory stick I get autoplay no problem but when I put a cd in my rom it goes straight to playing in WMP. try to open a cd to look inside of it nothing all the info I get is track 1 and aside from the number I get 1kb. that's it. now heres what I have tried so FAR.(DRIVERS AND CD ROM CHECK OUT OK ALL UPDATED DRIVERS)


 I thought maybe reinstall windows cuz something messed up somewhere. ok did that still same problem. tried a different cd-rw/dvd rom. still same problem. autoplay will not work. went so far as to dump windows 7 and put windows xp pro on my machine. guess what still even in xp autoplay will not work and cannot view cd's contents. so put win 7 back on my machine all updated to the last update and driver still put a cd in and it goes straight to play and no autoplay option. check REGISTRY entries and no foul play there either all is good. I really don't know what to do anymore I cannot stand windows anymore I wish there was another company with better os. to me I would imagine this has got to be a windows OS problem because its not a cd rom device problem. so if anyone can help please let me know.


 oh by the way yes I have enough memory ALSO a new hard drive so that is not my problem I think
my comp is a laptop by the way

 thankyou, ckch03Replace the CD data cable...USE an external CD/DVD  ROM drive. It that works, it is a hardware problem.

External DVD for Laptop PC. About $15
Quote from: ckch03 on April 15, 2015, 08:56:08 AM

...
I think my comp is a laptop by the way...

Greetings.

I've been having a random reboot issue with my machine. There's no warning whatsoever and no BSOD, the PC simply shuts down and turns itself on again after 3-5 seconds.

My first thought was temperature, because the lockpins in my CPU fan are broken (it's properly inserted in the motherboard sockets and working, it's just not locked) but it has happened at 34º CPU temp on idle as well as at  60º while playing, so I'm ruling it out as the cause for the resets. There's no overheating detected by BIOS or AsusProbe and the fan's RPM seem to be fine.

The odd thing is, it usually resets when I pause the games to access menus or loading screens, meaning whenever it stops processing graphics. A practical example would be Skyrim, I can roam the open world for hours without a single reset but if I head to town and start opening doors or pressing quicksave too often it appears I have 2/3 chance of rebooting my system. Other games, like Max Payne 3 for instance, I finished in a single setting of well over 6 hours playing without a single reboot. I've already re-installed my graphic drivers to no avail.

I'm thinking it's a power issue. I've been told my PSU is rather crappy (Hantol ATX v2.3 800W) however my graphic card isn't known for being too power demanding. I have another PSU backed up but it's even worse I believe (Eurotech 580W).

My question is, looking at my specs, can I at least switch the PSU's so I can run a couple of tests and see if the reboots still happen? Could a 800W PSU simply not be enough for my gaming hence the reboots?

My voltages are as follow:

+3.3V: 3.34V
+5V: 5.02V
+12V: 12.15V

Specs:

Windows 7 64bits Enterprise SP1
Intel Core i5 650 3.20Ghz
Asus Motherboard
8.00Gb RAM
AMD Ati Radeon HD 5700
Samsung HD103SI ATA Device 1TB

Windows Event Log doesn't warn me of anything irregular happening other than the Kernel-Power failure when the reboots happen.

Anyone have some insight on what could be causing this? I'm not very tech savvy but I will replace whatever needed if just POINTED in the right direction. I'll be happy to provide screenshots or any other information required.

Thanks in advance!I'd run MEMTEST86 on this system just to make sure that its not a GPF that is causing the reboots. More on GPF's here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/General_protection_fault

GPF could be caused my the RAM with an address that is flawed. Memtest86 will detect any flawed addresses in memory and if found it may be as easy as identifying a single troublesome RAM stick or REPLACING RAM stick.

Check all capacitors on the motherboard for any that are leaking as well around the CPU as for I have SEEN capacitors cause too much ripple when electrolyte is depleted and cause for system reboots. Any capacitors with swollen tops or leaking electrolyte would be a sign of this ALTHOUGH in very rare occasions electrolyte can dry up and not show physical damage to the can body of the cap.

Do you get a BSOD flash right before the reboot or does it always go to black screen and reboot.

If its a black screen reboot without a quick BSOD before reboot it could be the power supply, however your voltages stated look healthy, and as long as the voltages are maintained and not fluctuating the power supply should be healthy from info you shared. Quote from: DaveLembke on April 14, 2015, 06:15:01 AM

I'd run MEMTEST86 on this system just to make sure that its not a GPF that is causing the reboots. More on GPF's here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/General_protection_fault

GPF could be caused my the RAM with an address that is flawed. Memtest86 will detect any flawed addresses in memory and if found it may be as easy as identifying a single troublesome RAM stick or replacing RAM stick.

Check all capacitors on the motherboard for any that are leaking as well around the CPU as for I have seen capacitors cause too much ripple when electrolyte is depleted and cause for system reboots. Any capacitors with swollen tops or leaking electrolyte would be a sign of this although in very rare occasions electrolyte can dry up and not show physical damage to the can body of the cap.

Do you get a BSOD flash right before the reboot or does it always go to black screen and reboot.

If its a black screen reboot without a quick BSOD before reboot it could be the power supply, however your voltages stated look healthy, and as long as the voltages are maintained and not fluctuating the power supply should be healthy from info you shared.

I think the CPU holdowns are still the culprit...

Just a quick question...where are your temp readings coming from ? ?
If the Fan/Heatsink isn't properly seated it may affect how they are being reported...just sayin.

All major processor manufacturers have implemented a "DTS" (Digital Thermal Sensor) in their products. The DTS provides more accurate and higher resolution temperature readings than conventional onboard thermal sensors.

Some information. A motherboard may have one or more probes built-in. But the CPU itself has a temperature probe independent of the heat sink and motherboard.Find a utility that reads directly from the CPU.
Key phrase: CPU core temperature
Also:
Tom;s Hardware - CORE temp.

I have G41M-VS3 R2.0 Motherboard and I CURRENTLY have 2.0 GB dual channel Ram of memory installed and it works fine I just bought another 4gb of dual chanel memory that is 1333mhz as well but when I install it my computer just doesn´t start with it when I have it on. I looked at the requirements and to me it seems that it should work but it isn´t.  Here is the specs for the computer and RAM that I used, Please help if you would if I missed something.  THANK You, it is much appreciated. http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/G41M-VS3/
You will have to return the memory to the vendor.
Meanwhile, you need to check and make sure you know what works in yout motherboard.
http://crucial.com can tell you what your PC has and what you need to upgrade it.

The site will install a program to probe your PC. It is not spyware, so LET it install. You can remove it later.


Thank you very much i´m GOING to go back and buy some new memory tommorow . Thanks a bunch (:You're welcome.

So last night I was playing a game of CSGO with some friends when I thought I could smell burning. It was a weird smell though, it didn't smell like fire, so I continued to play. A few seconds later my entire computer powered off completely. It began to reboot but I worried to I turned it off from the power switch at the back. I then noticed smoke rushing out of the front of the case,  so I assumed it was something from the front. I decided to leave it to cool down overnight, and then test it after my revision class the next day. I got home, and decided to test it. I pressed the power button, and as half expected it didn't turn on. After taking the panel off of the case I've noticed that there doesn't seem to be too much damage to any of the parts, in fact I haven't noticed any. Although the power supply reeks of the burning smell, and it was a cheap power supply, so could it be that the power supply has overheated or something? And if so, will only this need repairing or will this have destroyed the motherboard and other parts of the computer? The other option is to take it to the shop that built it for me and see if they can spot anything. If necessary I can attach pictures of any parts that you need to see, but as mentioned as FAR as I can see I can't see any damage, but I might not be looking in the right places.

Thank you for all your help, jake.If your lucky you just need to replace the power supply. As long as the power supply didn't pass any unsafe voltages to the motherboard you should still have a good computer.Most likely if you simply replace the power supply, your computer should be good to go.  It is possible that the power supply could have SPIKED and also damaged your mobo but I think the odds are with you.

The PSU is one of the EASIEST things in your computer to swap out, held in place by 4 screws.  There are a number of connectors that you will need to reattach so just take note where each plugs in.  They are keyed so it's not possible to plug them in backwards and are unique so that you can't plug them in to the wrong place.  Hopefully the rest of the system SURVIVED but the PSU will need to be replaced.  The only way you can tell for sure is to try a working PSU.  Take this as a lesson to NEVER use cheap, generic power supplies, much better ones are not that much more expensive.Thank you all. If the PSU did SOMEHOW fry the motherboard, would their be any cosmetic signs, like melted chips or anything?It could leave a mark but not always, the only way to know for sure would be to try a known working PSU.

My original CX480 charger stopped functioning by an overcharge. My new charger that has exactly the same voltage and current and alleged to be compatible with many laptops. It is Huntkey HKA09019047-8D.
I noticed that it has +3.5 w charging when charger is more than 95% charged and windows continuously says "charging". It has about +24 w when normal charging and -10 w to -20 w when unplugged and about +6 w when close to full.
My main question is "Is my laptop get overcharged or +3.5 w charging is normal?".
And my NEXT question is"Is there any software that can stop overcharge? I couldn't find any!"
And my next question is "How to find appropriate charger? I can't buy and return chargers.".
I thought that stopping of charge is the buttery duty but charger seems to another side!  Generic chargers can ruin a laptop...speaking from personal experience.So you mean that I should find another MSI charger that might be compatible? Or it is surely compatible if it be MSI?
Have you heard anything about my other questions:
- "Is my laptop get overcharged or +3.5 w charging is normal?".
- "Is there any software that can stop overcharge? I couldn't find any!"I agree with  Patio.
And the manual for that laptop is not easy to find, they want to sell it.

Generic answer to your two questions.
Indeterminate. The  voltage level, per se, does not damage thugs. There is also a current regulator. Modern CHARMING systems are 'smart', to  ADJUST  charge rate to the batteries need. Not always a linear process.
Software has limited control of changer function. It is hardwired.

Here is why.
The charger system of any laptop has three has three  components.
1. The battery itself.
2. The regulators inside the laptop.
3. The battery may have regulators built-in.

Until somebody makes a universal standard for laptop changing systems,  each design engineer can make his own stuff. It is an area where the manufacturers can leverage their control of the aftermarket.

In brief. The laptop may have to be serviced by the manufacture if the certified battery and changer replacements do not work.



Quote from: amir72c on April 16, 2015, 07:31:59 AM

...
1.  My main question is "Is my laptop get overcharged or +3.5 w charging is normal?".
2.  And my next question is"Is there any software that can stop overcharge? I couldn't find any!"
3.  And my next question is "How to find appropriate charger? I can't buy and return chargers.".
...

so i have this old computer and its rather junky but still runs and isent half bad for playing movies thing is i want it to be faster so it can load movies faster i want to overclock it but the fans are very loud and very crappy (i have to keep the case open to keep it cool so the fans dont wake everyone in the state up) can someone roccoment a set of cpu coolers and some good case fans too all for someone on a budget? i wold put a airconditioner on there but thats to expensive  What make/model computer is it or if custom built the specs on it.

If you are able to overclock it, you could go with liquid cooling which could be quitter.

I am still using non-liquid cooling with my 10% overclocked system and it stays plenty cool. Replacing the heatsink with a new replacement may quiet it down as well as if the BIOS has a temp fan control you can set it up to where it will not spin or spin slowly until it senses the temp is a specific temp in which it sends a pwm signal to the fan and it controls the speed of the fan it wont be running full tilt when the cpu is idle etc.

With more info on this system including what CPU it is running I can assist further as for there are some differences between AMD and INTEL configs.its a old EMACHINE from somewhere around 2001-2005 it has 512 mb of pci ramTotally not worth it, it's not going to be designed for overclocking and any benefit at all is MINIMAL.  In fact, the money you would end up spending on new fans and a CPU cooler will end up COSTING more the machine is worth and quite likely more than a much better PC would cost used.I agree with Cameron on this system. I have overclocked old systems to see what performance gain there was and its very minimal. If you had an old Pentium 4 HT and needed to play a game that called for a Pentium D minimum and you weren't going to use the system for modern gaming and weren't going to invest more than like $15 into it, I'd say push the Pentium 4 HT from like 3.0Ghz to 3.3Ghz and try to get the Pentium 4 HT 3.3Ghz with overclock to perform similar to a Pentium D 2.8Ghz. I did this long ago to get Need for Speed - Carbon to run better on a Pentium 4 3.0Ghz HT system. CPU temp would climb and hold at 63C with this overclock and new thermal compound with massive heatsink with heatpipes. I had the thermal shutdown temp set to 80C and highest seen was 74C on a hot summer day when the air in the home was warmer. For the fact that I gamed mostly evenings when the air was cooler it wasn't much of a problem.

For around $100 you can get a barebone lower end but far more powerful than a 2001-2005 computer for processing power Motherboard, CPU, and RAM.

Not promoting this build below as the way to go for a gaming setup, but it did work as a gaming setup for my wife for 2 years prior to getting her a Core 2 Duo E6600 system.

Motherboard CPU Combo Deal at newegg for $65 ( Biostar Socket AM3 Motherboard and Sempron 140 2.7Ghz single-core CPU )
4GB DDR3 RAM - $25

Prior to this she was running a Pentium 4 2.8Ghz HT. This older system benchmarked with a CPU score of like 399. The new low end CPU scored 780 for performance, so it was almost 2 x better than the Pentium 4 that she had. It was also very noticeable that it performed better and faster than the Pentium 4 as well which was very surprising for an at the time modern low end budget single-core CPU. I ended up moving her GeForce 8800GT video card from the Pentium 4 to the new build and she was able to game and gaming performance was better than ever for her.

She used this for about 2 years until she started to heavily multitask on it and the Sempron 140 single-core CPU wasn't very good for having many things going at the same time. She played World of Warcraft on it and it played with no lag, but when she has iTunes going, plus browser with many tabs and Facebook running in which Facebook has many CPU hungry background scripts running, and then tried to game, it brought this single-core to its knees. I was given a HP Pavilion tower that was someone elses junk computer that got hit by lightning. I was going to scrap it for reuse of its case, but found that the 56k modem is all that was fried and the modem that was cooked was keeping the motherboard from successfully posting. Removed modem and it was a healthy system. Let the person who I got system from know that I fixed it and do they want it back. They already bought newer system and said I could still keep it. I then upgraded the Core 2 Duo E4300 1.8Ghz 2MB Cache to a Core 2 Duo E6600 2.4Ghz with 4MB Cache that the board supported and I had this CPU not used in a ESD baggy. She has been using that Core 2 Duo for the last 2.5 years with no problems in performance, but that older Core 2 Duo E6600 is far better performance than the Sempron 140.

Getting back to the Sempron 140, I ended up repurposing this system as our HT PC to play movies and streaming content to the TV with HDMI off of the video card. The Sempron 140 was plenty for quick loading and crisp and lagless streaming of Netflix and movie files.There is NO option for OC'ing any eMachine MBoard...Good catch Patio... I missed the fact that the motherboard is in an eMachine that is likely lacking in any overclock features. I had a eMachine motherboard a TriGem 2002.1111 socket 478 that had a Celeron 2.00 Ghz 400Mhz FSB CPU in it and the best CPU I could upgrade to was a Pentium 4 2.00 Ghz 400Mhz FSB CPU. Tried a 2.4Ghz Pentium 4 with same FSB and CPU failure beep code. It only would run a 2Ghz CPU. BIOS features were mostly disabled (greyed out) for any custom configs with only config options being boot order and system time etc.

There was no newer flash for the board to support anything faster than a 2Ghz CPU is what it came down to. HP also used some TriGem boards in their lower end cheap Walmart specials. HP also didn't have a bios flash for better CPU support. I still have this board, but it hasn't been used in ages because its just too underprocessing powered compared to todays computing. Last use of it was to see if it would run windows 7, which it barely was able to and I fought with Intel 845GL chipset for 1024x768 graphics forcing a Windows XP driver to 7 32-bit.
eMachines traditionally bought MBoards in bulk...most from the lowest bidder....i've never in all my years seen 1 of them that could be OC'd...
Shoot...UPGRADING even the RAM was a struggle most times.

Hi, folks

I want to upgrade the HDD on my Compaq 6710b laptop to 500 gig which I assume it will run OK but am slightly PUZZLED when I look at the description of the new HDD which says  " Advanced Format, industry standard 4K sector size".

I want to "clone" my existing HDD to copy over W7 and my  files to the new HDD and wonder if this comment makes a difference to what I can do or need to do as I ADMIT I don't know what it means.

If that's a problem presumably simply installing everything from fresh on the new drive would be straightforward?

Any advice gratefully received. Thanks.
Simple answer.
One time 512 bytes was the industry standard for sector size.  As drives became larger, it made sense to go to a larger size.
In Windows the 'cluster size' is often 4096 bytes, making it easy to use the new larger size with no problems.
Look at this:
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/314878
Unless you have a rather small drive, the cluster size is 4096.
Hi.

Thanks for the reply.

The existing HDD is 120 gig and I'm want to clone it to a 500 gig using W7.

 The LINK article refers to XP but in any event I regret it means nothing to me whatsoever.

Simple question is if the cluster size is different does that matter and if so can I do anything about it?

Cheers.

The article means XP and most every thing else.
Good disk clone programs will RESOLVE any issue with cluster size.
You should not have any problem.
The following is good information about free drive clone tools
Five free and reliable cloning tools
(I Like Macrium Reflect Free Edition.)
Hope that answers your concerns.  Hi.

Thanks for your trouble in responding and your advice.  Will see how I get on!!!

Cheers.

Hello, i've not been on here for a looooong time and yet i find myself confused again so i ask for your help! 

I have a new computer see the specs in screenshot below.

My question is, i wanna buy: Team Dark 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model TXD38192M1600HC9DC-D.

Will this work with my current SETTING so i can get to 16gb Ram?

(Note i run Microsoft Windows 7 6.1 Home premium EDITION 64-bit & i have a 550w powersupply)

THANKS a lot for your time! 

[attachment deleted by admin to CONSERVE space]Run the online scanner at Crucial.com...

I have recently build a computer. I have a corsair 750W PSU, Asus sabertooth 990FX R2.0 MOBO, SAPHIRE dual x R9 280 GPU, Coolermaster hyper 612 Ver. 2. CPU cooler. and an AMD FX 9590CPU I was just wondering what the temp of the CPU should be. right now just idleing in the BIOS it is at around 47 C. Anyone know what is should be at See Here...The idle temperature is near useless, you need to run a stress test such as Prime95 and see what temperature you reach.

None of my COMPUTERS (3 laptops, 1 Apple laptop, and 1 Apple desktop) are recognizing my external hard drive.  I have some very valuable INFORMATION on the hard drive I need to retrieve.  I have USB disks that are being recognized by all of my computers so I know it is not the USB ports.  When I plug the external hard drive in the computer the light on the hard drive lights up and the motor is TURNING but the computer does not recognize it.  Are there any software that can read a hard drive that is not being detected by the computer?  Someone suggested Recuva but it did not work (the software works because I inserted a USB drive and the software detected it) regarding the external hard drive.  Is there some data RECOVERY software or hardware I can PURCHASE to retain my information instead of sending it to a data recovery company that will cost me an arm and a leg just to retain my information?  I am trying to prevent spending thousands of dollar to retrieve information from a hard drive that cost me less than a hundred dollars.  Any suggestions are welcome.



Thanks,



bdthomas02  I would remove it from the enclosure and hook it up internally as a slave drive...No software solution. It is hardware
Quote

None of my computers (3 laptops, 1 Apple laptop, and 1 Apple desktop) are recognizing my external hard drive.

Just a basic question. For certain games, games that don't run as well normally, I tend to set in the Nvidia Control Panel to prefer maximum performance in the power management setting as opposed to the default adaptive so that it runs a bit better (the performance is definitely noticeable)

Can this be bad? Can this lead to my GPU dying out QUICKER than normal?

I have a Nvidia GT 650MSimple answer is: No, it does not harm the Graphics Unlit.
Now the details.
Extreme settings MAYBE hard on some monitors.
High swings HEAT cycling may shorten the life of the GPU.  That is not established, but generally accepted. Setting power management to maximum performance won't harm anything, it will however consume more power and lead to shorter battery life so I'd recommend switching it off of maximum performance when you need to run the laptop on battery for an extended period of time.It shouldn't have any effect on your GPU.Biggest concern with life of anything computer related is keeping it cool. If your always operating it within its normal temperature range for the temp of the GPU itself, ADEQUATELY cooled, then it should last many years.

However if your like me and make the mistake of running a graphics intensive game on a brand new corporate laptop such as a Toshiba Tecra which wasn't a gaming GRADE laptop and it has a cooling issue with the GPU that your not aware of because you dont even think about checking the operating temp of the GPU core while gaming with speedfan etc, and you roast and kill the integrated GPU, that is when you can run into problems.  Fortunately I was able to send the laptop back under the warranty for replacement, and the replacement I got of the same model, I made sure that the only games were simple games that wouldn't roast the GPU.He hasn't been here since November... Quote from: patio on April 18, 2015, 07:41:57 AM

He hasn't been here since November...

For fear of static during my build I was thinking of bringing home some vinyl operatory gloves from my Dental office to wear during my build.  They are powder free.



We will be doing the build in the kitchen on a wood table.  Pet free environment. Barefoot.  And we will have anti-static wrist bands.  I know we are doing EVERYTHING right.  But this is my 1st build and I have ALOT of money in components.



Would there be less risk of wearing vinyl gloves with static and eliminate the risk of oils on components.?



Thanks
Those gloves will be fine...take your time...don't force any plugs/components and you'll do fine.IMO you are really overthinking all this.  While you need to obviously take reasonable care of components you do not need to go totally overboard - It's a PC, not some sort of super-sensitive precision instrument, the parts are relatively durable.  Just hold components by the edges and don't touch the contacts on things to avoid causing problems with finger oils.

All gloves are really going to do is make components and other fiddly parts harder to handle.  *censored*, they could even result in you getting a build up of static on the gloves themselves - Think about what happens when you rub a latex balloon on your head...He wants to be careful...there's nothing wrong with that approach...

I doub't he's gonna be RUBBING his head RAPIDLY with the gloves while doing so. Quote from: patio on April 18, 2015, 08:27:02 AM

I doub't he's gonna be rubbing his head rapidly with the gloves while doing so.

The wrist strap is usually worn on the nondominant hand (the left wrist for a right-handed person). It is connected to ground through a coiled retractable cable and 1 megohm resistor, which allows high-voltage charges to leak through but prevents a shock hazard when working with low-voltage parts.

So recently, my computer started smoking and I DECIDED it was a fault with my PSU, and I replaced it. I got the corsair CX750W, which was a huge upgrade from my awful ezcool PSU from before. So I turned it on today, and I have now NOTICED that a red LED lights up and flickers. It's positioned NEXT to the R (RESTART) button on my case, and I'm 90% sure it was never on before. My case is the K-3 gaming case, just a cheap case so I could spend more on the fun stuff. If anyone needs any pictures or more info, I can PROVIDE it, but what does the red light mean? Should I be worried?

Thank you, jake.I've never seen that case before but it sounds to me as though this is just the drive activity LED, totally normal for it to blink and flicker.

Can a laser printer be used to print pre-printed forms? I use a legacy program for my finances (Managing Your Money c. 1986) that runs in DOS-Box on a Win 7 x64 MACHINE. For decades I have printed checks on dot-matrix and INKJET printer with no problems. The check layout is stored in the program, but will it translate correctly to a laser printer?

Any help is appreciated,

SidewinderA printer is a printer. The method the printer uses to get the ink on the paper does not affect what it can print. You may just have to fine TUNE the margins, etc. in the print layout the first time.Thank you, Allan. I don't do much printing so maybe a laser printer will be more cost effective than a inkjet and the endless dried-up ink cartridges.I agree with Allan.  But, I think you could POSSIBLY encounter issues on the software side.  In other words, will a new printer be recognizable to DOS-Box on a Win 7 x64 machine?  Hi

CHECKING the specifications on your Brother printer it seems it is wireless and USB only , no parallel port. Getting printing to parallel printers in Dos box isn't easy, printing to a network or USB printer impossible.

So if you haven't already brought the Brother printer consider a used laser printer  with a parallel port.

have a 2 y/o LAPTOP, yesterday, wireless stopped connecting,  every other wireless device connects fine to my network.
I have DISABLED and reenabled my wireless adapter, still no LUCK,  what else should i try? 
I dont think the wireless card is dead, since it sees networks, just wont connect,
thanks.What is a '2 y/o laptop' by another name? 
asus k55n,  win,8, 8 gb RAM,  amd a8 4500m processor,  also, i did update the driver for wireless card, but didnt help. Quote from: Geek-9pm on April 24, 2015, 09:35:43 AM

What is a '2 y/o laptop' by another name? 

Hi,

This is my first post and let me openly state I am not a techie as much as I wish that was different.  Nonetheless, I need some information and I hope that you can understand what I am trying to explain.

Two weeks ago, my old clunker of a home PC finally bit the dust.  After talking with some IT folks, I now know that it was simply a power surge issue and could be easily replaced.  I am an assoc. professor and I kept old course syllabi on there.  I am a bit of a digital packrat so I'm sure I had some useful files on that old computer that had served me so well.

When it first happened, I wanted to have it fixed but as I already stated had I known then what I know now....[sigh]  Anyways, my husband suggested that we use the services of a gentleman that lived in his parents' apartment building.  Said gentleman previously gave my husband a business card that stated this person in question was a qualified computer technician.  Further, this gentleman was "down on his luck" so to say and could use the money so I said, "sure, why not."  Talk about tweedle dee and tweedle dum leading the blind into a ravine...

The light at the back of the computer was flashing on a steady rhythmic pace and the gentleman said he attempted all things to prove that the battery on the computer was kaput.  In the end, he said the motherboard was fried but that he could save the files on my hard drive.  I thought, "Wonderful, all I really want are my files any way!"

This is where the problem lies.  Please bear with me as I try to explain what he handed me.  He told me that "it" was the hard drive and I should have it installed into a new desktop as a slave drive.  All he handed me was something that looked like a cross between an old photo negative and a circuit board.  It is definitely not a whole hard drive but rather a part from inside it I guess?  There is a sticker with a serial number on it.  If anything, it looks like a real fancy black measuring ruler.     Does this description help at all?  Can this piece be named?

Does such a piece have any data?

With this "piece" out of the larger hard drive, is the hard drive totaled and now, I will not have these old files again?

I'm sorry for such a lack of proper technical terms and such a sloppy description.

Volunteers here want to help you.
From your post, I will assume two or  things.
1. Your computer is a laptop and it suffered fatal damage.
2. You friend recommends you get a good  desktop computer, which is easier to maintain. Refurbished desktops PCs  are cheap come with a warranty. 
3. Your friend gave you adapter for using a laptop drive on a desktop PC.


Does it look like that? 
 Hi

Can you give the make and model of the old computer ? Also you can post pictures of what part you have using the attachments and options, OPTION below.
It's possible that it is the complete drive here is a picture of 1 TYPE of hard drive   http://static.myce.com/images_posts/2012/12/myce-msata-lite-on.jpg
If it is like that please don't touch the board without correct anti static equipment.




Seems, the system is damaged, if any important data was in the old system, get it recovered and buy a new pc This link has images of older hard drives and cables.
 (And some related things.)   
Older Hard Drives and Cables Quote from: Pochemuchka on APRIL 22, 2015, 10:15:15 PM

The light at the back of the computer was flashing on a steady rhythmic pace and the gentleman said he attempted all things to prove that the battery on the computer was kaput.  In the end, he said the motherboard was fried but that he could save the files on my hard drive.

All he handed me was something that looked like a cross between an old photo negative and a circuit board.  It is definitely not a whole hard drive but rather a part from inside it I guess?  There is a sticker with a serial number on it.  If anything, it looks like a real fancy black measuring ruler.     Does this description help at all?  Can this piece be named?

Does such a piece have any data?

With this "piece" out of the larger hard drive, is the hard drive totaled and now, I will not have these old files again?

Did he only give you the 'hard disk' or did he give you back the entire computer? If he didn't give you back the rest of the computer, ask for it back. The cynic in me makes me think he is trying to steal it and get paid for the privilege. Even if it doesn't work or has failed components, that doesn't suddenly make it his.

I guess you must be laughing at such a rudimentary error! 

Luckily, we still have the desktop but it is in pieces.  The repairman dissected it but that's all.  I can assume the proper hard drive is still in there.

need to find the software/drivers to GET the rotation button and to set the user button on the fron of the display as i don't know how to set them and don't know if I even got the software/driversPanasonic Toughbook CF-C1
Is a new notebook that allows more options for rotation of the display. This would be USEFUL in a small conference where you want to SHOW a presentation to colleges.

Here is review:
Panasonic Toughbook CF-C1
Quote

Summary: Panasonic's rugged, touchscreen-equipped Toughbook CF-C1 is a specialist (and pricey) CONVERTIBLE Tablet PC. However, it lacks both an optical DRIVE and a webcam, and it'll take a while to get used to the keyboard's small space bar. Dual hot-swap batteries are welcome though

Can anyone help this novice? I have a 386 running WIN 3.1, some win lotus software and some dos and Geoworks. I got in MS Space Simulator I just bought. I loaded it and it not only would not run (it said something about not being able to access ems or e**). Anyway, now I'm getting an error whenever I use my computer for anything.  It says there isn't enough disk space or that temporary files can't write. I KNEW enough to go into bios and tell it to reset defaults. It improved, but with some programs I'm still getting the error and can't use them. For example, in Lotus Ami Pro I can add a single comma to a page and it tells me it can't save it. Any suggestions (for a real novice).  Thanks. You should consider using a new OS.
Your 386 is ALSO called 'Intel 80386' which runs newer versions of Windows.s
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intel_80386
Quote

The ability for a 386 to be set up to act like it had a flat memory model in protected mode despite the fact that it uses a segmented memory model in all modes would arguably be the most important feature change for the x86 processor family...

Ahhh, all it took was to delete space simulator. Everything is back to normal and I can run all my Lotus applications. Still, I would love  to know exactly what it did to my system, i.e., I guess to my memory allocation, so I can avoid it in the future.

I've attached images of two mice.

I have several Kensington mice. Model 72121.  It's the perfect mouse for me,
but it's no longer manufactured.  The 72121 is a 5 button mouse, but notice
there is only one large thumb button.  All the new mice I've looked at have
two or more thumb buttons close together.  Most people must be comfortable
with this new design, but I'm not!

The other image is a model not common in the USA.  It's sold mostly in Europe.
It's called the Rockfire 4-Button Optical Mouse.  There were exactly two Google
listings for this model (RM-802).  One business was destroyed in a flood and
and the other no longer stocks this model.  Notice it has one thumb button, like
my old Kensington mice.
 
I'm tired of searching.  Can someone help me find a 4 or 5 button mouse with
one thumb button?  I really PREFER corded mice, but I'll accept a wireless model.
Please, no "mini-mice" that are frequently used with laptops.  It must be a full
size mouse.

Thanks guys.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Sod you must have already seen this:
Unusual Computer Mice You Probably Haven’t Seen Before
You MAY already know a Multi-Button Mouse is sometimes called a 'puck'  used in programs like Auto-Cad. However, it is now hard to find them.
Image from eBay:
That has five button if you INCLUDE the wheel.
Also, the model you want is on eBay.
Kensington Model72121
Does that help?  I apologize Geek-9pm and to all forum members.

I'm a partner in a business and things got kind of crazy for a few days.
That's why I didn't return to this thread until today.

I checked eBay and many other sites dozens of times, hoping that someone
would have leftover (but new, in the box) Kensington 72121.

I don't want to buy one 72121 that some guy found in a junk box.  That's
the kind of stuff I was finding on eBay and a few other sites.

I'll download several pdf catalogs from mice manufacturers and try to find a
good substitute for my old Kensington model.Hope you find the Kensington 72121
As you said, it is not in production.
Amazon lists it as currently unavailable. It may be worthwhile to contact them directly and put in  a request.
Kensington 72121 on Amazon
The customer reviews indicate it was solid in 2013.

May 2nd Im gonna do my 1st build.

This is what I have:
CPU
case
O.S
HDD
SSD
heatsink CPU cooler
multiple fans
PSU
anti-virus
motherboard
ram
SATA 3 connectors : a few EXTRA with extra length if needed
card reader ( feel free to laugh )
optical drive
GPU
compressed air
basic tool kit
extra fan extension connectors ( in case needed )

I will be heading to Rochester MN with a FRIEND to watch the Mayweather  vs Pacquaio fight.  We will be doing the build that day down his place.  I want to make sure I have everything I need to complete this build, because the closest computer SUPPLY store is about 90 MINS. away.

Can you think of anything Im missing?  Any connectors or parts I may need?

I do have all the peripheral needed.


Thanks again everyone
-Michael

Many of you MIGHT have heard the news of Nvidia's "False Advertising" their GTX 970 and claiming it to be a 4GB VRAM GPU.
While technically, it is a 4GB VRAM GPU, but the remaining 0.5 GB can only be accessed at a slower speed. Due to this, users have been reporting memory allocation issues and stuttering on games that use up more then 3.5GB of VRAM. Nvidia's reasoning for this mismatch was due to, and i quote; "A communication error between the engineering TEAM and the technical PR team"

What are your opinions on this?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tNGi06cq_pQ Hitler is certainly unhappy.No reason for a Poll i can see...
You currently have 3 Topics going on vid card choices...and most of the advice you have heard is innacurate...
Just sayin...In most cases there is nothing wrong with the vRAM limitation.  vRAM requirement goes up with resolution and if you are trying to drive a resolution so high that it needs more than 3.5gb vRAM, the 970 GPU itself will struggle.  The only time that the ISSUE could show up is in SLI setups as you are now starting to approach the POSSIBILITY of using a lot of vRAM with the GPUs still coping.  Even then it still is not a major issue, notice that when the chip came out it was extremely WELL received and performed great, this does not change just because a bug was found.A report claiming that carted had the best price to performance  was published 28th of April 2015.  Well,  at least  it is very recent.
http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=GeForce+GTX+970
Here is a report with another viewpoint.
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gaming-graphics-card-review,3107-4.html
But if you have deep pockets, why ask? 

I have a Samsung laptop that's about 3 years old. About 2 months ago the laptop shut itself down abrubtly. Since then no USB or Bluetooth devices work. Windows (10) doesn't recognize that the system has any bluetooth adapter installed. Certain items are MISSING from my device manager under USB devices as well.

After taking it to a few repair shops, testing with a Ubuntu boot disk and reinstalling windows, the current likely conclusion is that the USB controllers on the motherboard are bad.

I don't rightly KNOW what that means. What I do know is that the motherboard costs 1000 dollars, and I can't afford to replace that. No repair shops in town will try. I have a little skill with a soldering iron. Is this something I can replace or resolder myself? Where can I find the chips I need on the board? Where can I buy replacements? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Often I hear the windows "device found" "device disconnected" noises as though a usb stick were loose in a usb port. This makes me think that perhaps it just needs a resolder.

The motherboard's model is Samsung Electronics 700Z3C/700Z5C CPU Socket U3E1
The laptop model is NP700Z5C-S01UBHi
Have you checked the USB ports for damage . If any ports are damaged and you should be able to see damage, the port could short which will cause an over current CONDITION thus causing the chip to get damaged or for that device to be disabled.
If you could supply the exact model number of the Samsung I will check the Circuit Diagram for how that part of the motherboard works. And then should be able to diagnose what could be faulty.

 The motherboard's model is Samsung Electronics 700Z3C/700Z5C CPU Socket U3E1
The laptop model is NP700Z5C-S01UB
(adding that to the OP)

There is no visible damage to the USB ports. Quote from: Lisa_maree on April 23, 2015, 02:28:40 AM

Hi
Have you checked the USB ports for damage . If any ports are damaged and you should be able to see damage, the port could short which will cause an over current condition thus causing the chip to get damaged or for that device to be disabled.
If you could supply the exact model number of the Samsung I will check the Circuit Diagram for how that part of the motherboard works. And then should be able to diagnose what could be faulty.

I have a little skill with a soldering iron. Is this something I can replace or resolder myself?

Hey Guys, im fixing to BUILD a brand NEW computer here in a few weeks and ive already gotten all my parts, I need help with choosing the graphics card.

Ik here awhile back nvid. got slapped with a lawsuit over there GTX 970 card, so my question is should i get the gtx 970 with the 3.5 gb buffer or should i get a gtx 980 outright?

HERE are my specs:

Case: Corsair Obsidian 750D

Motherboard: Gigabyte Gameing 5 Motherboard

Procesor: Intel I5 4690k ( i want to OC to 4 GHZ nothing more)

RAM: 16 GB Gskill Sniper ram 2133 MHZ

PSU 650W seasonic GOLD PSU

GPU: Undecided

SSD: Samsung evo 850 250GB ( main BOOT drive, steam games only on here)

HDD: WB Blue 1 TB 7200rpm( other games and documents pics and movies will be on this drive)

Water Cooler: Cosair H100i

Monitor: Acer 24" 1Ms 144hz

LED KIT: 2M red led rope lighting, i will mount this on the inside of the case to give it the red theme of the devils canyon.

I may do a few youtube videos of some gameplay and but i want to play ultra maxed out settings with out cooking my processor and gpu. THX all. There is nothing actually wrong with the 970, so long as you know what you're actually getting.I'm on the same boat as you.
I think i'll pass on the 970's and wait for the AMD Radeon 300 Series which are supposed to come out soon.. i think.
Not all games might use over 3.5GB of VRAM, but future games almost certainly will. You might even experience some stuttering on current modern games, like Shadow of Mordor. I'd rather wait then bust out 300 dollars. That's just my opinion though.I'd never wait for an AMD...

Thats just me...

So I built a custom computer, Parts include:
-AMD Athlon Quad Core CPU
-Nvidia 780 Ti Graphics Cars
-A55M E33 MSI motherboard
-Two 4GB sticks of ram (ballistix)
-ASUS Optical Drive
-Sea gate barracuda 250GB 7500RPM

    So my computer has had its fair share of problems, drivers are the cause, I'd expect. Whenever an Ethernet CABLE was plugged into it, it would crash(I was using a wireless Panda Express chop for wireless). After that first crash, it would crash constantly until I reset it to an earlier time. So I was playing a game of League Of Legends and my wireless went down. I figured
That it was just the internet so I turned off my computer for a few hour, then came back but it still wasn't working (blue light on the chip wasn't on either).
   
     I didn't uninstall the software for the Panda Express chip but it wasn't working. I couldn't restore my computer to an earlier time and as I grew fustrated, I ended up uninstalling windows 7 from my computer to do a fresh install.

    Now, whenever I'm installing, my computer will crash at expanding files. I figured this had to do with the disk so I switched to a USB using diskpart and xcopy. I got past the expanding files then crashed off the USB win7 install. So I decided to put an ISO of deriks nuke and try nuking my HDD. As soon as I start uninstalling with the nuke (manual or automatic) on the HDD, my computer crashes.

    At first I thought it was the HDD but it turned out that was a no when o tried another drive (same make). I don't want to pay to get this fixed but I have no idea what to do from here

I FORGOT TO MENTION, I HAVE GOTTEN MISSINGBOOTMGR MESSAGES AFTER TRYING TO INSTALL EARLY ON

Thanks for whatever helps you can PROVIDE and I hope that I can get this fixed. Thanks guys
And windows 7 32bit is my OS BTWI think it is hardware.
The Windows 7 install should not fail early.
Can you BOOT up any other OS?
If you have another computer, make a CD for a small  version of  Linux.
The objective is to prove it is a hardware issue and not OS or drivers.
But if the small Linux behaves normal, it may indicate a driver issue.

Lightweight Linux Distros.

Hope that helps.  1st...it's not a driver issue as the HDD was wiped...
2nd...it sounds like the HDD has issues...that or the RAM.
DLoad and run MemTest for the RAM...run it at least 1 hour.
Also DLoad and run the HDD diagnostics from the HDD manuf. site...

The other issue may be your Win 7 stik...how did you build it and where is the Win7 from ? ?

Does overclocking lock a CPU to one frequency thereby loosing power saving throttling features?

I've just ADDED some extra cooling HEAD room and I was wondering if this would be a sacrifice? Or I could just have completely misunderstood how throttling works Assuming it is done correctly it won't, worst case when the CPU clocks itself down automatically it may clock down to a slightly higher SPEED than it did before.

In my BIOS there is a setting for turning the turbo "Throttling" on and off.My AMD that I have a 10% overclock on with Cool'n Quiet enabled in bios does just as Camerongrey stated. It throttles back when idle, but to a higher clock than that of the clock that it would run at if without overclock.

I overclocked a AMD Athlon 64 X2 4450B 2300Mhz CPU to 2530Mhz.

With Cool'n Quiet enabled the CPU at normal clock and throttled back when idle shows like 600Mhz, and with the overclock via increasing my FSB on my RAM from 200Mhz to 220Mhz for 10% overclock, its idle at like 660Mhz.

I use a Samsung laptop. The local disk (C:) is full (1.01 GB free of 178 GB). My music is not playing and cannot access my downloads. Local disk (D:) has 212 GB free of 267 GB. Can I use local disk (D:) and how to do so? I have an external drive that is also full.I'm shocked it evens loads Windows...general rule of thumb Win needs approx 15% free disk space to OPERATE properly...

Here's what you can move to the other drive...Movies , pics , music...etc.
Programs acnnot be moved as they will not run.

DLoad and run TreeSize in the meantime...it'll show you whats taking up the most space...

Keep us posted.

P.S. Don't try to move a ton of stuff at one time...Windows will freeze with that little disk space... Quote

I'm shocked it evens loads Windows...general rule of thumb Win needs approx 15% free disk space to operate properly

screen to left side white cap on right side. Also when turned after bootup screen turns black have to use a LITTE menu that comes up when  I click the right side of mouse to get into a window to do anything. The  Operateing system Ubuntu14.04, the environment lxde lubuntu This is what someone TOLD me. Any ideas I try turning it off an restarting it Please give make and model of your computer. Include info about any video card.
Also, did it work normally at one time?

Do you have a CD that was used to install Ubuntu?
Here is an undated documentation for Ubuntu CD boot options.
https://help.ubuntu.com/community/BootOptions
Quote

Introduction
This page discusses the options available to alter the boot of an installed Ubuntu or an Ubuntu CD. It briefly DETAILS the main start options and then focuses on various options to alter the boot process. Changing the boot command may be necessary to fix problems with system freezes or video displays when trying to install Ubuntu. It may also be helpful when an existing installation will not boot or otherwise needs adjustment.
Some remedies, such as using the F1-F6 keys, are specific to the CD boot process. Other procedures, such as editing the boot menu LINES, can be used on either the LiveCD or on an installed system.
For help with directly editing the Grub CONFIGURATION files or other installation issues please refer to the links at the bottom of this page.

I recently GOT Epson L1800 and I print only pale colors on glossy side of transfer PAPER. What am I doing wrong?You need the photo ink that they use...it's different.I have the original sublimation inkSeems the stock ink will in fact do photos...is it Epson photo paper ? ?I tried several TYPES of paper, I always get pale colorsMay be the ink is not supporting what you are expecting from that.So better change the INK and check what gonna be the result.What?

I am new to the forum, and I hope this is the right place to start. After I separate from the military I plan to go to college for a degree in computer information technology. Until then I plan to learn as much as I can to give me a head start.

So with that being said a FRIEND of mine GAVE me a book to study for the A+ certification. I think this would be a decent start to get my feet wet and refresh on a few things I did know. I read different reviews on this certification as if it is worth it or not but personally I think it is.

Well for today I have a question about busses inside a computer. From my understanding it is a path which communication can travel down from the cpu to other components of the computer. Is this the actual circuitry (idk) that is etched in to the motherboard. I do not really know how to explain it. Or is it cables and wires?

If this is not the right place to come for this my apologies, it would be appreciated if you direct me to the right place. A bus is literally anything that carries data from one component to another inside a computer.  It could be a trace (or set of traces) on the motherboard (you can often SEE these going to/from the CPU such as between the CPU and RAM slots.  It could also be a CABLE such as your SATA cables to connect to your drives (this would be classed as a bus although it's not that common to call it that).  You also get buses inside the individual chips etched into the silicon.  EVEN connections to external devices can be classed as a bus (USB = Universal Serial Bus).Thank you. So traces would be the word I guess I was looking for. Alright well that really helped out a lot. The more I read the more I find out how much I did not know.

We have wireless internet at our house so that all the family's devices can connect to the internet wirelessly. There is a password to type so that each device can connect with our connection.

I want to know if it is possible that each device could have it's own password to connect to the network? Could that be arranged or does everyone have to always use the same password?That is the business of the wireless router.
If users have different levels or privileges, then the router wold do that.
Some routers keep of log of which devices on online.
Multiple IDs and Multiple passwords for single Wireless Network
The router you have may allow this.

   

It is possible to have a router that is CAPABLE of either broadcasting multiple NETWORKS, each with their own password or have a single network where each user has their own username and password.  HOWEVER, this is a feature designed to be used on enterprise networks - You would need high end business level networking gear and a lot of experience to configure and manage it.

May I ask why you want to do this?Thanks I'm not sure if mine ALLOWS the multiple passwords but I discovered earlier today that Comcast allows their customers a free wi-fi access for guests so that you don't have to give out your router password to friends or RELATIVES if you don't want to. I hadn't known about that but managed to get the little tablet computer hooked up to it earlier. Quote from: haus_kat on May 04, 2015, 10:07:58 PM

Thanks I'm not sure if mine allows the multiple passwords but I discovered earlier today that Comcast allows their customers a free wi-fi access for guests so that you don't have to give out your router password to friends or relatives if you don't want to. I hadn't known about that but managed to get the little tablet computer hooked up to it earlier.

Hi all,

I am at that point really desperate to set up my printer to autoconnect to wi-fi on printer startup... but I've tried now countless times to do it and I KEEP getting an error message "no computer found. Try again".

There is a number of options in wireless connection configuration menu in the printer and one of them is "Wifi Autoconnect". When I SELECT that option, the printer tells me to "run the software on the computer before connecting". What it doesn't tell me is WHAT sofware! And there is, of course, no relevant help on Epson webiste (surprise, surprise). I've tried "running the program" = running the installation CD, "running the program" = Epson Connect printer setup, tried software updates, basically tried everything from epson menu in the start bar. No help from the manual either.

The password for wifi is really long and it's inconvenient having to type it in letter by letter (it's like texting on old mobile phones - takes forever!) in the printer's interface - and I can't just change the password as I'm using my landlady's broadband.

Any help? Please?... To start with, Have you ever connected the printer directly to   your computer? If not, do that first and make sure it is working alright.

Does your landlady give you a strong signal?
Does she ALLOW you to interface to the router?
Why not use a direct cable connection?
This is the general guide fro MICROSOFT:
Install a printer on a home network
Does that help any?

The signal is perfect, there is no problem with printing and scanning. I added the printer as a network printer but that didn't change anything.
The only REASON I am trying to connect via wifi is because a USB cable did not come with the printer... (atrocious if you ask me)
Guess I will have to get one...

I have an ASUS desktop.  I have my monitor plugged to a video EXPANSION card not to the onboard video slot.  One fine day when I turn it on, theres no video.  Fine, I SAY. And I buy another video card and replace the old one.  Still no dice.  I next check and blow out the PCI-e slot with compressed air to DISLODGE any dust.  Out the video card in, still nothing.  Its a Radeon video card.  I then try to see if the onboard video slot will work so I plug the monitor into there.  Still nothing.  So can I fix this somehow

Have you tried a DIFFERENT monitor ? ?

Sudden mouse (?) problem on my main desktop. Calling from wife's laptop.

The mouse seems to function correctly with all movement functions. It functions ok LEFT click to any title or action "word". It functions ok RIGHT click for any "dropdown". The BATTERIES are fresh.

But if I LEFT click on any box requiring me to enter an ID or PASSWORD, I do not get the flashing CURSOR in that box, nor can I type anything into that box. On some sites (my email) the border of the box turns red when I LEFT click on that box, but no cursor and unable to enter numbers or letters.

Help! What the heck is going on.Wireless mouse ? ?...replace batteries and move any CORDLESS devices further away...

Have you tried a different mouse ?

I replaced batteries - no change. Batteries taken out are bright in my flashlight.
I exchanged mouses - no difference.
I have conclude that the physical mouse is ok, but that some sort of set-up function has been changed, accidently.
LEFT clicking mouse on any icon, any symbol works fine. All movement is correct.
The only function not working is when I click on any box requiring an ID or PASSWORD, the expected flashing line (cursor) does not appear, and I cannot type any information in to that box (ID or PASSWORD).
This post should move to the software section, I guess. Can you do that or should I start a new post?

ArtCheck all the mouse settings in Control Panel....Went carefully through mouse settings - nothing changed.
Went carefully through internet options - nothing changed.
Using IE.
Had a thought - went to Firefox instead of IE. Can sign into everything ok.
So IE is the problem. Going for a new IE download.
What browser would you recommend using?I use only FireFox...not a recommendation because Users have they're own preferences...but that's me.Can't find a way t re-download IE11. Tells me I already have it. Time to move I guess.
Quote from: schuarta on April 24, 2015, 01:52:50 PM

Can't find a way t re-download IE11. Tells me I already have it. Time to move I guess.