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6851.

Solve : Hard drive partitions?

Answer»

hi

new to these forums sorry if i have posted in the wrong section

i just bought a laptop wich come with a 40gig HD and on it is 2 PARTITIONS

1) ACER , fat32 , 16.8gig , windows data , my docs etc

2)ACER DATA ,fat32 , 17.2gig , has nothing on it

both partitions are working fine but i would like to delete/remove ACERDATA and set ACER to have all the HD space .

my question . can i do this without completely formating windows and removing updates?
                  if so how?

thank you very much everyone for your time

Jason  No.  Here's a brief REFERENCE with some good info:
http://www.waterwheel.com/Guides/hardrive/hard_drive_partitioning.htm

Frankly, I would just leave that hard drive as is.  Why do you want to make the entire hard drive one partition?  Keeping your data on a separate partition gives you some data protection.  If Windows gets BADLY MESSED up with viruses, spyware, corrupt files, etc., you can format that partition and reinstall Windows while leaving the other partition alone and you still have your data on it.I concur. No ADVANTAGE to changing it and a lot of reasons to leave it as it is.  although you cannot see anything on the second partition it could have hidden restoration files on it please check before you do anything which might wipe them out.ok thank you everyone for your help

6852.

Solve : tv card problem?

Answer»

Hi

I'm getting the following error msg when i try to use my Vision DTV to watch tv on my pc - "Fail to play your program!"

I've looked through the help files for this card but with no luck.  Can't find the drivers to try & re-install so any ideas welcome.

ThanksOuch, This is new for me too,  1st*  (below are requirements for that card located in a google search- does this look correct to you) ?
http://www.pulsat.com/satellite/site/details.php?product_id=301

System Requirements

    * Windows 98SE/ME/2000/XP
    * 500MHz CPU or above
    * 128M RAM or above
    * VGA Card with at least 8MB Memory
    * Sound Card
    * Microsoft Direct X 8.1 or above
    * Digital Satellite Dish & LNB

Where did you buy this?
Can't you go to your cards* manufacturer's site and download the drivers for this?

...............honvetops

Yeah those system reqs look familiar.

Didn't buy the card - it was given to me along with the install CD but i can't find it.  Have also Googled details but manufacturers site seems to be totally devoted to aligning sat dishes - can't find the drivers anywhere plus i'm not even sure it's a driver problem.can I assume you have  XP   <     "YOU DON'T HAVE VISTA  RIGHT  ??

TV Tuner Vision DTV problem!

    Simple answer is the SIGNAL from your CABLE provider is scrambled. The set top box does the decoding. If you hook the cable to the tuner it doesn't understand the scrambled signal. <<  You will have to CONNECT the output of your cable de-scrambler box to the card. Set the tuner to the channel that the cable box outputs (usually 3 or 4).
In other words your PC will act the same as a TV set. It will have to remain at channel 3 or 4 and you will have to tune in your channels on the cable box

JonG.   I don't have a real good answer on this , maybe someone else here can give you some better info and getting this resolved*  You could also try this free system scan which analyze your computers drivers and look for upgrades....  &GT;>    might help.....

http://www.pcpitstop.com/welcome.asp?source=driverscan&cs=1001

6853.

Solve : Gaming system and its performance?

Answer»

So about 3 years ago i made this purchase. FYI yes i know computers age, but age isnt my issue.

ASUS M5A97
AMD FX8120 (8 Core CPU)
BLACK Night CPU cooler
8GB RAM
1Tb WD black and Secondary Seagate Barracuda 1TB Drives
MSI Hawk R6870 Twin Frozer GPU

Anyways, my issue is that i get lag on certain games, especially older ones that my old system could handle without a problem. For example, the computer has random FPS drop in Grand Theft Auto Sand Andreas, Split second runs with low FPS and a game called LASAR lags bad when i turn into a corner.

What ive already done is:
Checked all drivers
Made sure nothing is overheating
Im Virus and malware free
All games are legit disks NO Cracks here

 I only have FPS lag with older games. GTA IV and Even GTAV plays like a charm, So does Just Cause2, Need for Speed on the Run, and TrackMania Nations forever. 
I suspect its my CPU. I was told multiple times that i should disable some Cores in my CPU and over clock it. I was thinking maybe disable 4 cores, leaving 4 and over clock. But how to do that?

Any other suggestions? Thanks In advance Is your OS Windows XP? The 32 bit version? 64 bit?
Sorry I do not have a answer for you. But  you might consider doing an upgrade to your Operating System. At this point in time, your best choice  is to get Windows 8.1 and find the performance is much better.
That is not my opinion, it is what others are saying. Microsoft has directed all the attention to Windows 8.1 and the coming Windows 10 version. There were/are things in XP that were never resolved. MS is never GOING to fix those issues.

Your hardware really looks impressive. Windows 8.1 does very well on older hardware. Your hardware is not too old. Here is an item about  new features and  support.

How many features  in Windows 8

Another good link:
http://www.windows8core.com/
Quote

Posted by Ahmad Wahid on May 18, 2015 in Latest News, Related News, Windows 10, Windows 10 RTM, Windows 10 Upgrade, Windows 7, Windows 8 Pro, Windows 8 RTM, Windows 8.1 RTM | Comments 0 comments   

Microsoft previously announced that the Windows 10 upgrade will be offered for free to all Windows 7, Windows 8 and Windows 8.1 users and now, Microsoft has shared more details about this offer. The upgrade to Windows 10 will be free but, you won’t be able to get a legitimate version of Windows 10 if you upgrade from pirated Windows 7 or Windows 8/8.1. Microsoft’s Operating System Division head, Terry Myerson has revealed that the free...

You have lost of drive space, so you can easily partition a drive and install Windows 8.1 as an alternative OS.  That way you can experiment with both systems on one computer. DUAL-boot works good. But takes just a bit longer for XP to come up.
Are you really running that system on XP? Quote from: Geek-9pm on May 18, 2015, 04:16:26 PM
Is your OS Windows XP? The 32 bit version? 64 bit?
Sorry I do not have a answer for you. But  you might consider doing an upgrade to your Operating System. At this point in time, your best choice  is to get Windows 8.1 and find the performance is much better.
That is not my opinion, it is what others are saying. Microsoft has directed all the attention to Windows 8.1 and the coming Windows 10 version. There were/are things in XP that were never resolved. MS is never going to fix those issues.

Your hardware really looks impressive. Windows 8.1 does very well on older hardware. Your hardware is not too old. Here is an item about  new features and  support.

How many features  in Windows 8

Another good link:
http://www.windows8core.com/
You have lost of drive space, so you can easily partition a drive and install Windows 8.1 as an alternative OS.  That way you can experiment with both systems on one computer. Dual-boot works good. But takes just a bit longer for XP to come up.

Sorry i did not make things CLEAR. I am Using windows 7 Professional with the Latest updates installed. This machine isn't old at all. Well 3 yeras maybe plenty for a computer but i spent $1100 then and its still rather an impressive and fast computer. I used to run a dual boot with XP 32bit SP3 and 7 but XP didnt much like this CPU and board where things where really slow and the machine HICCUPED a lot.

Quote from: DaveLembke on May 18, 2015, 04:26:02 PM
Are you really running that system on XP?

No. I did Dual boot it XP and 7 when this machine was new, but its been 2 years since i had XP. Not sure why XP was assumed here, because i never mentioned it but nonetheless I am Running windows 7.

Im wondering if the AMD's 8120 8 core has a bad effect on these older games because all my newer games do run fine. Just the lightly older ones. Their boxes say windows vista/7 compatible though. So I know its not a software issue.um...

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]OK, got it. You have Windows 7 with updates.
Older games are not going to do well with multiple cores. But I don't know how you adjust that sort of thing.
Having 8 cores is unusual. Quad core is more common. Here is a article about quad core and older games.
Issue with game and quad core...  Tom's Hardware.
Search for "Old games and quad core" and find results like this:
Google search.
Maybe that will help. 
Quote from: bromtheman on May 18, 2015, 06:30:01 PM
um...

Thats his profile...doesn't mean he's runnin XP on said PC... I questioned XP because of the profile listing just as bromtheman pointed out.

I have seen XP run into issues with CPU's that are too new for it so thats why it was asked.

For the fact that he is running 7 thats great. Also the 8-core is common for those who have AMD setups. I have the AMD FX-8350 4Ghz 8-core and its a sweet CPU, although overkill for my needs.

Getting back to his inquiry here now that the OS has been disclosed...

I would use core affinity settings for the games to see if they run better on 2 of 8 cores or 4 of 8 cores etc. I havent run into any issues with games and the 8 core, although Unreal Tournament 99 doesnt like any multicore CPU thrown at it and so I have to set core affinity to just 1 of 2 cores on even my Athlon 64 x2 4450B CPU overclocked to 2.53Ghz to get the game intended for single-core processors to run without issues.

I wouldnt shut off cores and drive 1/2 the CPU harder. Core Affinity adjustments should be all you need if you feel that the 8 cores are tripping up the games.

More info here: http://www.techrepublic.com/blog/windows-and-office/change-the-processor-affinity-setting-in-windows-7-to-gain-a-performance-edge/I looked at the above article and tried setting the affinity for the game LASAR (aka Overspeed) and it refused because the application was already running. I then tried right clicking on the actual file in its directory and finding that setting before it was being used and no luck. Quote from: comda on May 20, 2015, 09:23:46 AM
it refused because the application was already running.
This is not an error message or error state that prevents it from happening.

You might get permission denied if you didn't use "Show Processes from All Users", though.
Setting the CPU affinity didnt do anything. Im playing Lasar and the game will work fine then when i go around a corner i have LAG
6854.

Solve : how to get afudos v5 to work with asus?

Answer»

We've GOT an ASUS p6x58d premium mainboard with an intel i7 930 2800 cpu. I want to downgrade the bios because it seems like the memory isn't being seen by the bios ever since I upgraded it. The only afudos programs that seem to work with asus BOARDS are the old v2 ones which don't allow for downgrading. The more recent ones, like v5 have downgrade options, but they give an error message with the asus .rom files.

Anyone know a way to GET the newer afudos programs to work?

Help appreciated.

6855.

Solve : video card ddr3 / motherboard ram ddr2?

Answer»

ok my question is my video card is 512mb ddr3 but the ram on the motherboard atm is only ddr2 what does this mean for my graphics card performance and speed?That is fine, the memory and the graphics card and the motherboard are totally independent.so in  a couple days IM replacing the ddr2 with ddr3 will this help the speed overall ? Quote from: commonclint on May 26, 2015, 08:35:12 AM

so in  a couple days im replacing the ddr2 with ddr3 will this help the speed overall ?

Not all MBoards will take both types...you better check before you buy...yeah already checked buddy for some reason when they BUILT this machine 3 years ago for some silly reason theve only stuck ddr2 in ITI'm not following you...what MBoard is it ? ?m2n68-la thats the motherboard model it can take ddr3 but it was only ever running ddr2 who ever built the machine for us at the time 4 years ago lolYou will need to clarify exactly what board you have.  That model either relates to a DDR2 only ASUS or a mix of DDR2 or DDR3 only boards that HP used in some of their systems.  I can't SEE any boards with that model that support both DDR2 and DDR3.

Either way, I'd be very suspicious of whoever built the system, the ASUS board is significantly OLDER than 2011 and the HP ones would have had to be stripped from an old system for you to have it, certainly doesn't look like someone building a machine from new, off the shelf parts. Quote
I can't see any boards with that model that support both DDR2 and DDR3.

Neither can I ...compaq presario tower and its got the hp mainboard in it with amd phenom II 2.8ghz
6856.

Solve : Hard Driver (Disc)?

Answer»

My computer power supply burntout, I installed another one and it also burnt out. I removed the HARD driver to INSTALL in a Dell computer that was missing its hard driver to try to recover the info on the drive. I cannot get passed the setup screen. Any suggestions?It will never boot in another machine unless they are practically identical...

Hook it up as a slave drive in a working DESKTOP with a burner and you should be able to retrieve your data...Is the hard drive the only one in the machine? If not, then make sure the jumpers are set correctly. More info is required.The hard drive from the second computer was previously removed, I removed my hard drive from my computer, changed the jumpers to MA, and I cannot get it to work. Does the fact that the second computer is a Dell fiqure into this?It depends on what model, which you did not specify. Some older models like to be jumpered as CS. How was the original drive jumpered? Is the drive seen correctly in the BIOS?

6857.

Solve : Odd Monitor Problem?

Answer»

After brining my computer out of SLEEP mode my monitor power light flashes and there is no display.  I have a 19 inch LCD wide screen that is about a year OLD. The SVGA cable has a 6' extension.  I plugged in my laptop and the monitor (bypassing the extension) came on fine. Tried with the extension in place, power light flashes, no display. Replaced the extension, no change. As long as the desktop or laptop is plugged into the monitor without the extension, all is well. May computer is running XP Service pack 2 with NVIDIA GeForce MX/MX 400. Other than monitor replaced about a year ago, no changes for several years.I'd replace the extension cable, for the fact that it use to work and now it doesnt, and when introduced it causes the problem...

DaveThank you for the reply. I replaced the extension cable TWICE with HIGH quality SVGA cables, same problem. Computer store said monitor was “going out “ and was requiring high input voltage. Anyone have a better idea?

6858.

Solve : PC randomly freezes/restarts?

Answer»

It's also become SLOWER than anything.

when it finally starts back up, and I send my error report, it automatically takes me to the Microsoft website and tells me that it has to do with either RAM, HDD, CPU, or Power Supply.

I know it's not the HDD as I already replaced them when it failed just this year.

I'm at the end of my rope and am just about to shoot the *censored* thing.What happened before this started?
What protection do you have?
What are your system specs, and make/model if it is pre-built?worked fine before this started happening.

Norton and a surge protector.

Compaq presario S4000V, with a, early p4, 80 GIG HDD, ~1GB RAM, that's about all I can say off the top of my head.
Dload and run MEMTEST to test the RAM...let it run a few hours. Any errors mean the RAM is bad. You might have to test each stick if you have more than one to FIND the culprit.

Even though it's a new HDD it can't be assumed it's not the problem so DLoad and run the HDD manuf. diagnostics just to rule that out as a possibility.

As far as the PSU the only WAY to find out is by borrowing a known good one of the same or greater wattage and swapping it in there.

Good Luck and let us know.

6859.

Solve : Need help with my RAM?

Answer»

So i just got my first PC and i am looking into turning it into a gaming PC, i DEFINITELY know i need more ram but i have no clue where to look to try to find the right KIND of ram sticks and if i should purchase one 8GB stick or 2 4GB sticks (just want 8GB for now) i have a Acer Aspire ES1, if i could get some help it would be greatly appreciated  Looking at the specs for the system I'm not sure how much of a "gaming PC" you could really turn it into. However you can upgrade the RAM.


Normally, the question of whether to get one stick or two depends on what you will be doing in the future. populating only one slot means you can later buy another of the same memory stick and PUT it right in to upgrade, but having two identical sticks means the system can usually USE a Dual Mode with the two sticks.

This choice is made very easy with that system, though- it only has one slot.

This is a Memory stick which I EXPECT would work with it.

it looks like the task of actually installing the RAM is not made entirely straightforward, though- according to thisdisassembly guide, you basically need to gut the system almost completely to get access to the RAM slot.The 4gb of RAM that machine came with is more than sufficient for its weak CPU.  You have no chance of "turning that into a gaming machine" at all.  Unless you are doing something that actually needs more than 4gb of RAM (gaming doesn't count here) then all you will end up doing is wasting your money.

The processor and GPU are far too weak for any sort of gaming and cannot be upgraded.  You get what you pay for, that is an extremely cheap machine, you can't expect that much from it.

6860.

Solve : Mouse isn't responding but at the same time it is??

Answer»

Recently my mouse has been "unresponding" when I am playing a game or just browsing the internet or anything for that matter the mouse will randomly stop moving and I can't left click or right click or anything ALMOST as if it's being undetected by my system, but recently I have looked at my mouse when it goes through these spells and the laser in the mouse that detects MOVEMENT is still on and the mouse acceleration light is still on so I don't know why the mouse itself doesn't work and this hasn't started happen until recently but I have noticed that it is happening more often and the time that the mouse is out is lasting longer and longer. Also I have tried replugging my mouse into a different usb I originally had my mouse in a 2.0 then I switched it to a different 2.0 and it still had the same effect then I switched it to a 3.0 and it still has this problem.  Mouse problems can be in software. Yet more often it is case of the wires have become damaged.    You might not see the damage. The quick way to test is to try another mouse.
BTW: Cost of a new mouse might not be a INDICATION of quality. Price often varies for other reasons. A standard optical mouse is about $10 from a on-line store. ALWAYS good to have a spare on hand, especially when you play games a lot.

6861.

Solve : Windows 98se modem install?

Answer»

Am trying to install a Dynalink internal pci modem.   On BOOTUP a new pci ITEM is found and I then install the driver for the modem in Win.98, downloaded from the Dynalink site. 

Device Manager shows that the driver is not installed and a search for new hardware shows there is no new hardware found.

Any ideas please?Does the New Hardware Found window come up ? ? If so at that point it to the location of the driver and continue...
Are you SURE the drivers are for Win98 ? ?
What model is this ? ?try it this way switch of , remove the drivers and the modem, restart the computer, switch it of again then install the drivers and refit the modem.
there is a tool in win98 CALLED HWINFO /UI

Go to start then run and WRITE in  HWINFO /UI   
there is a space between the O and the forward slash / . this tool should show you the hardware , drivers ,  IO, IRQ , DMA system conflicts etc,
File attributes show as MAGENTA
Registry entries show as GREEN
Configuration Manager issues show as BROWN
Warnings are shown in BLUE
Error messages show in RED
mind you my memory is going i hope HWINFO still works

6862.

Solve : Need help buying my first Gaming PC?

Answer»

I can get a COMPUTER through work but they only have a few gaming desktops. If someone can help find the best they offer. the price don't matter its a monthly payment, unless you find a cheaper one that would be better with a little upgrade  here is a link to there desktops http://fedweek26ach.mypaycheckdirect.com/thumbnail/9378.uts?Mcat=9378&categoryId=30648&Mcatn=&Mcatp=category_root&type=thumbnail#/?pg=0 
from what i can tell its between these two but I know very little.   CyberPowerPC Gamer Ultra GUA500 Gaming Desktop and the CyberPowerPC Gamer Ultra GUA450 Gaming Desktop       please let me know I am planning on getting one as soon as possible to be playing ARK survival EVOLVED when it comes out So your employer is going to be buying you a computer and your trying to find one with specs that can also be used for fun in addition to work?

Kind of surprised that they would be going with a CyberPower PC as for most businesses go with higher end business class workstations in which you can for example get the boss to possibly agree to a Core i7 HP Business Class Tower and then you can slip in your own video card to it to game off of it since integrated video is too weak for most games.

Most employers dont buy you gaming rigs unless your in the game development field, or graphics artist in which you can try to suggest an overkill video card and CPU for a position that would probably work just fine on a lesser processing power setup, but you can request the better hardware as leverage to get a better video card stating that it will somehow affect the art quality at your job.  * I ASSISTED a graphic artist with getting an overkill video card this way since he wanted to be able to game as well as perform graphic arts. 

Back at my last job, my boss was a gamer too, and he stated that why dont you go with this Pentium 4 HT 3Ghz system back around 2005 which was like $1400 and then if you buy your own video card, I wouldnt object to you installing it in the corporate computer. So I installed a GeForce FX5200 AGP video card back then which cost me $75 at staples that I picked up on a lunch break and then when on break and after hours off the CLOCK my boss and I would game with others online. My employer wouldnt buy me a system with an overkill video card, but they didnt object to me installing my own on their hardware.

So ... maybe you can get a better system than a Cyberpower for quality from your employer and then just buy a video card out of your own money to be able to game on it. I have seen many problems with Cyberpower systems using low end parts where they bundle say a Core i7 with a ECS or ASRock motherboard with low quality memory etc, and low quality power supply.right I would rather have a quality computer if there was one on this site that I could upgrade that would be great. and then knowing what parts would work. and helpful hints on installing parts.
Quote from: DaveLembke on June 01, 2015, 11:03:16 AM

So your employer is going to be buying you a computer and your trying to find one with specs that can also be used for fun in addition to work?

I can't see the link because I get redirected to their main website so I may well be wrong, but I got the impression this might be one of those salary sacrifice schemes, where they take a certain portion of your pay in order to pay off a purchase?  We have something similar where I work but it's dreadful because the prices are massively inflated and there's no good choices for any of the categories.

dazedandconfused, I'd love to help but as said I can't see the website - would you be able to post a screenshot or something so we can see what options you have?if you can get on to ebay or amazon maybe all these models show there as well 
CyberPowerPC Gamer Ultra GUA500 Gaming Desktop

CyberPowerPC Gamer Ultra GUA450 Gaming Desktop


dazed i'd pay attention to this:

Quote
I can't see the link because I get redirected to their main website so I may well be wrong, but I got the impression this might be one of those salary sacrifice schemes, where they take a certain portion of your pay in order to pay off a purchase?  We have something similar where I work but it's dreadful because the prices are massively inflated and there's no good choices for any of the categories.
Quote
I got the impression this might be one of those salary sacrifice schemes, where they take a certain portion of your pay in order to pay off a purchase?  We have something similar where I work but it's dreadful because the prices are massively inflated and there's no good choices for any of the categories.

This is the first I have ever heard of anything like this. Generally all businesses I have ever seen provide the computer for the employee and it is a capital investment and the computer gets an asset tag and serial number is recorded of the computer and its value depreciates over a number of years. The computer is the property of the business and not the employee. Interesting that an employer would have an employee select the computer to use for work, and the employee has to pay to own it.

To just think of the billions of dollars businesses would save in the USA if they said "guess what... your all getting new computers!!!!... and you hear some people cheering who are glad to see their 10 year old celeron workstations finally retire, and then the employer hands out a brochure of the many models the employees can pick and chose what computer they want.... still sounds very appealing... until in the end, sign on the line that you wish to make this purchase, and it will only be 72 easy biweekly payments of $20 out of each paycheck for 3 years to pay off the $1440 computer, and if you terminate employment with that employer either fired or by choice, they retain the difference of your paycheck to offset the debt of what is owed against the remainder of the computer cost." Oh and dont feel as if you are leaving the business empty handed... we are giving you your computer as a parting gift as a thanks for having you, and best of luck on your future endeavor. 

Quote from: patio on June 01, 2015, 02:40:57 PM
dazed i'd pay attention to this:
I should add that not all of these schemes are terrible, the place I work just employs stupid people so they can't tell that they're getting a terrible deal with any luck this one might be better.
That said it does still make sense in some circumstances, but as an example to buy an iPad from this scheme where I work makes it more expensive than taking Apple's own finance package (which itself doesn't have a great interest rate so is more expensive than taking a normal loan) - the scheme is supposed to save the employee approx 25% due to the cost being DEDUCTED from their salary before tax etc.


Quote from: DaveLembke on June 01, 2015, 03:26:54 PM
This is the first I have ever heard of anything like this. Generally all businesses I have ever seen provide the computer for the employee and it is a capital investment and the computer gets an asset tag and serial number is recorded of the computer and its value depreciates over a number of years. The computer is the property of the business and not the employee. Interesting that an employer would have an employee select the computer to use for work, and the employee has to pay to own it.

To just think of the billions of dollars businesses would save in the USA if they said "guess what... your all getting new computers!!!!... and you hear some people cheering who are glad to see their 10 year old celeron workstations finally retire, and then the employer hands out a brochure of the many models the employees can pick and chose what computer they want.... still sounds very appealing... until in the end, sign on the line that you wish to make this purchase, and it will only be 72 easy biweekly payments of $20 out of each paycheck for 3 years to pay off the $1440 computer, and if you terminate employment with that employer either fired or by choice, they retain the difference of your paycheck to offset the debt of what is owed against the remainder of the computer cost." Oh and dont feel as if you are leaving the business empty handed... we are giving you your computer as a parting gift as a thanks for having you, and best of luck on your future endeavor. 

Dave, again this might not be correct as this is just how it works at my place, but this is meant to be a "perk" - so we still provide computers for work, the "salary sacrifice" scheme is meant to be so that people can buy computers, bikes, phones, and some other things through salary sacrifice to save money as they save on tax.  In some places it works as it should, if they hike the prices like they do here then it's silly but I can tell you that many people have signed up to it regardless.  I don't know how common salary sacrifice schemes are elsewhere in the world, I do know they're not rare in the UK at least - hence why I'm only guessing at this point that this is something similar, I could well be way off the mark.

Apologies for the slightly off topic discussion!
6863.

Solve : Cheep SSD suggestions?

Answer»

looking for a cheep and reliable SSD to use in my HP 210-1099se netbook I won't be saving anything to the computer, as I have other COMPUTERS for that. Internet and email on the go is all it will ever do.

I was looking at a 120 GB Samsung 850 EVO SSD and like it, but I think it is an overkill for what I'm doing....You have made a good choice.
Are you looking for best price?That is a good drive, Crucial also do some very good value SSDs. Quote from: Geek-9pm on May 29, 2015, 10:03:01 AM

You have made a good choice.
Are you looking for best price?

yes I am... I was first looking at a Samsung 840 EVO but it was sold out at $44.99... I think the amount of storage may be too high for just the operating SYSTEM and Google CHROME. You think EVEN with its high compacity it will it be fine for it's application?


Quote from: camerongray on May 29, 2015, 10:05:06 AM
That is a good drive, Crucial also do some very good value SSDs.

you got a reccomendation for a Crucial SSD?Samsung 850 Pro vs 850 evo.... difference?The Pro is marketed as a higher quality, higher end device but in real world usage it isn't really worth the premium.  The 850 Evo is still a great drive.Just to address your query about the drive being overkill - in a way, yes, because your netbook won't benefit from the full performance of the drive.  That's not to say it's a bad idea at all though, and just because you can't for example get 550MB/sec read speeds from it in that PC doesn't mean it will be slow - it'll make a huge difference to the "snappiness" of the netbook in everyday usage.  Buying a slower or older drive won't be much cheaper if at all, and you'd possibly end up with something that isn't as reliable or high quality.  Even a smaller drive won't necessarily be much cheaper, 120GB is about the minimum sweet spot for price per GB these days due to economies of scale making 64GB drives not cost effective.
The 850 Evo or Pro would be great as suggested, the Pro as camerongray says is marketed as a higher end drive but you would be hard pushed to notice a difference in almost any real-world usage.  Pretty much any Crucial drive currently on the market would be a decent alternative too - the BX100 is their "value" series, while the MX100 was their mainstream drive which the MX200 has replaced, however all three are available to buy and are equally good choices for your usage.ok then I think I will go with the Samsung 850 EVO SSD for both my netbooks (current one and new one) Thank you!

where is the best place to order the SSD from for the lowest price?Just got 2 Samsung 850 EVO SSD's and will be upgrading soon! thanks for all the help!Samsung 850 Pro vs 850 evo.
One costs $10 more than the other.
He's likely already figured that out... Quote from: patio on May 31, 2015, 05:33:01 PM
He's likely already figured that out...
That is what is efferent.  No indication of  quality or reliability or speed differences. The lower cost thing is made on 19nm technology. The  huger is  40nm.


6864.

Solve : Two hard drives (won't work in win98?)?

Answer»
I have an old computer; Compaq PRESARIO 4540 from 1998
I need more space than 2 GB, but when I insert a new hard drive it seems like neither windows or msdos can find it. I've tried DIFFERENT JUMPER settings. (every setting thats mentioned on the new and old hard drive) but when I start the computer it only finds the old hard drive on 2 GB

The hard drive specifications is:
(new)  Western digital WD200  {drive parameter} LBA39102336    {20 GB}
(Old)    quantum bigfoot CY {2 . 0 GB}

It's running win 98 but I need it to simple use...

Can someone help me please?The old drive with Win98 should be at the end of the data cable and have the jumper set to "master with slave"

The new one should be on the middle IDE connector and jumpered as slave.

But you might have to use the CD that shipped with the HDD or connect it on a newer machine and format it first. Windows will not see it until it is formatted.

Yuo will want to format it for the FAT 32 file system...

Hope this helps.Thanks for the tips, but

I tried and a message came on a black screen: "operating system not found."
so I set the cables where they was placed earlier but then everything SEEMED to become even worse; the same message; operating system not found, was repeating over and over again, while the computer looks for  diskette. the same errror message came even when I had inserted a boot cd with win98 SE on it.  even if I disconnect the new hard drive. What was on the new HDD ? ?Was it blank ? ?

Remove the new drive and set the jumper to master only connected to the end of the IDE ribbon cable and do a few cold boots...I've triede disconnecting every drive exept the old hdd but still I get the error Cannot find Operating system, even with a boot diskette and/or a install-on-boot cd it can't find OS.
I've also spent a little time in BIOS, but not even BIOS will recognize any of the drives longer, what could be the problem?
PS: should I buy a new hdd and use only that one? (I don't really have enough money for that but if it is the only solution...)
 I have two COMPUTERS running win98, but the graphic card in the other computer is "dead".  I use a laptop to be in the forum. the only possible way to copy files is with a cd from the laptop, so if there is any cheaper solution than to buy a new hdd i would be happy.We need to back up a bit here and be clear on what happened...
You had a working Win98 system that failed after you added another HDD...
You now cannot boot to that system correct ? ?
You are now mentioning another machine with a failed Vid card that also doesn't work correct ? ?

Are you randomly switching around a bunch of HDD's from machine to machine in order to get something to work ? ?

This can cause chaos altogether...

And restate what your goals are here and what you want to accomplish.The computer was working, but I needed more space, so I tried to insert a new hdd, it all seemed fine, though the new hdd couldn't be found, so i tried  connecting it like you said, then it searched for a diskette instead of an OS, so I went to BIOS all seemed fine, so I tried to unplug the new hdd, but then the error came and repeated, the other computer works fine, but is missing a usable video-card,
so if I need to buy anything, what would be cheapest? a neww hdd ( I only need 10 more GB) or a new video card?
I hope it is possible to fix the first computer I mentioned because that's the one who works best. and no I'm not "switching around with a bunch of hdds".
the content on the new HDD is unknown but most likely an empty NTFS or FAT32 formatted drive. Both HDDs worked fine before I tried to combine them in the same computer, and the system of WIN98 also ran ok. Quote from: almostgeek on April 03, 2007, 12:55:29 PM
I've triede disconnecting every drive exept the old hdd but still I get the error Cannot find Operating system, even with a boot diskette and/or a install-on-boot cd it can't find OS.
I've also spent a little time in BIOS, but not even BIOS will recognize any of the drives longer, what could be the problem?  If the BIOS doesn't see any of the drives, then Windows surely won't.  You don't say how big the "new" hard drive is either.
PS: should I buy a new hdd and use only that one? (I don't really have enough money for that but if it is the only solution...)
 I have two computers running win98, but the graphic card in the other computer is "dead".  I use a laptop to be in the forum. the only possible way to copy files is with a cd from the laptop, so if there is any cheaper solution than to buy a new hdd i would be happy.

Alan <><  What is the model number and manufacturer name of
the computer that doesn't see your hard drive?
  did yo check the boot sequence? i repair old computers and that is often the problem.
The old hdd w/os should be on the end of the cable and set to master, the new hdd should be on the middle of the cable and set to slave.
in bios the boot sequence should be the old hdd as primary and the cd rom drive as secondary.
Lightning Mods Computer Design & Repair
6865.

Solve : Dropped my hard drive :/?

Answer»

Well, my freind dropped his hard drive and asked me to try to see what i could do. He dropped it a while back took it to many places and left me as his last resort.I installed the driver and plugged it into my computer. it sounded fairly healthy. I do believe I hear it spinning or atleaset I hear a spin at first then it kinda leaves. My computer is not reading it so, I don't know what to do. I can open it up to the core but don't want to until I have no other choice.
The hard drive is a Western Digital wd15ears.

Repair of a hard drive is abut like the repair of a watch.
You need tools. Yo need experience.
A hard drive is not designed for simple  repair.
Here is a video. I have watched this and I think is fairly accurate.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ItPkH-SCqU
Your need to have a sense of humor when you watch this. The guy is really clumsy and does every thing wrong.
Read the disclaimer at the end.
Then watch the second video. Pay attention.
 

PLEASE ignore the above video... 

Geek - Please don't post joke videos of people destroying their hard drives, people come here expecting help and run the risk of trying things in linked videos, even if they are jokes...GetDataBack NTFS is a tool I would try on it. To run this you will need to install the hard drive as an internally installed drive and not connected via USB. It requires direct connection to the controller IDE or SATA. The software is free to try before you buy. Its not free if you want to recover data in the end, but this tool does WORK. I bought a license package of their software and have recovered important data off of drives like this one as well as ones with the clunk of death. There are drives that this doesnt work on that are damaged beyond what this software can handle, those drives need to go to a data recovery center which is expensive such as drives that either dont spin at all or wont work with a data recovery software and require the data platters to be placed into data recovery equipment.

You can run the software and let it chug away at rebuilding the data read off ill drive to a healthy hard drive in which it will rebuild the data found in a drop location on the healthy drive in the system. You just need to make sure you have enough free space for all data found to be written to.

The trial will show you if its recoverable or not. The company that makes the software charges you to buy a license if you want to actually recover the data vs just see proof that it found it and can recover it.

https://www.runtime.org/data-recovery-software.htm

I bought a software package that has all their recovery tools years ago for $79.99. But you might be able get the 1 recovery tool without the bundle that may work for cheaper if its worth paying to recover data.Not a joke. Watch the videos.
Second video. Pay Attention!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F5Y7BniaRXg
If your hard drive makes a odd sound, thee is no software that will fix it.!
You have to do something physical with the drive.
QUOTE from: Geek-9pm on May 31, 2015, 02:09:45 PM

Not a joke. Watch the videos.
I watched the video and they were wiping the platters down with liquid, it even states at the end it's a joke.  Please do not link videos like that, they serve no good and are just likely to CAUSE someone to destroy their hard drive. Quote
If your hard drive makes a odd sound, thee is no software that will fix it.!
You have to do something physical with the drive.

I have had GetDataBack NTFS recover data from a drive that had the clunk of death ... it took almost a week to sweep the damaged drive and assemble the data to a healthy drive, BUT it worked. I DIDNT have to do anything special physically to the damaged drive. Only think that could be considered somewhat special was the laptop to desktop IDE pin adapter to allow for the damaged laptop drive to work with a desktop computer to recover the data off the drive.

I agree that software is likely not to fix the damaged drive, but software can be used to recover data if the data is important enough to spend money to recover.

I was told by a person on a different online forum to give the software a try and if it shows your data, then you could buy it to recover the data and all future data off of drives. I bought this when I was working as a system admin and while it took almost a week to recover the data with it running 24/7 for about 6.5 days, the cost of the data recovery was far cheaper than sending the drive out to a data recovery center and so the business I worked for was VERY HAPPY that I recovered data that wasnt located elsewhere as the employee shouldnt have been storing projects locally, but since it was a laptop, he had been, and he dropped the laptop walking with it with power on when he didnt realize an object on floor in front of him, and that did it in crashing to the floor with drive spinning and laptop on.

When I saw the actual data files that were his project right there, I was like SWEET!!! We might be able to get it all back. I didnt expect it to take 6.5 days to sweeping the drive to reassemble the data to a healthy drive, but it worked.  thanks yall
6866.

Solve : PCIe 3.0 Mobo and GPU, but 2.0 CPU?

Answer»

So I just got a new processor and motherboard (the motherboard was free from a FRIEND), and I've spent all day trying to figure out why my graphics card wasn't being recognized. My friend finally figured out that both my card and the mobo are 3.0, but the processor only supports PCIE 2.0. My question is SIMPLE. Can I make this work?
Motherboard: ASUS P8H77-V
CPU: Intel Core i5 2500 Quad Core 3.3GHz
GPU: Gigabyte NVIDIA GeForce GTX 760I remembered dealing with this with a friends i5. Here is the article that I showed him that I will show you. You will need to use a different (newer) CPU to get 3.0.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/270852-29-will-2500k

On his system though he just needed to install drivers and the video card worked at 2.0 vs 3.0. Did you install the correct video card driver? He later bought a used newer i7 on EBAY to go to 3.0 and get rid of bottleneck.

6867.

Solve : computer always ask date to be entered?

Answer»

everytime i open my computer i have to go to BIOS and enter the valid date and time even if i  have saved the chages.

can anyone HELP??

thanks! YES you need a new CMOS battery...part # CR2032 about the size of a dime on the MBoard.

As always when working INSIDE the case make sure all power is removed and take anti-static precautions...

6868.

Solve : 144hz monitor and 970 GPU... Need to adjust settings??

Answer»

I just got my Acer 144hz gaming monitor.
I have it connected to my MSI 970 GPU.

I just connected everything up lastnight and looks pretty good.
It CAME with 2 cables? DVI and D sub? Which connection should I USE to get the BEST performance? It also has an HDMI and display.
Also. Does anything need to be set or adjusted right out of the box? I know I can adjust the color etc.. But does 144hz need to be set? Or is it 144hz right out of the box?

With my MSI 970 is there a option to adjust settings to maximize its performance? Or is it pretty much right out of the box all set and ready to go?
I just want to make sure I maximize my monitor and GPU to get the best performance and picture out of it.

Thank you

Win 7 64bit
Samsung 850 500gb pro SSD
Corsair HX750 PSU
MSI GTX 970 GPU
Acer 144hz monitor

This post might sound silly, but I am still new to all of this. If I di need t adjust setting on either component where do I go and what do I want to check.

Acer GN246HL BLACK 24" 1ms 144hz HDMI Widescreen LED Backlight LCD 3D Monitor 350 cd/m2 100,000,000:1 - Newegg.comUse DVI without a doubt - No point in using VGA, you'll get worse image quality.

The card should work best out of the box, any performance tweeks would be done in any games that you are running to get the best performance/detail level balance.cameraonguy:  Thanks.  Done anything need to be done to the monitor out of the box?

6869.

Solve : power supply dead?

Answer»

Thanks.
Before this happened the pc was working fine, apart from one or two minor errors but i cant really REMEMBER cause its been so long since i last had it working.
Im not sure of the make and model as i GOT the parts from a computer fair and put it together myself, and it was working fine for at least a year before this happened so i dont think its my fault, as in not putting it together properly or none-compatable parts in it. i thought it might be the power supply so i got a new one and it worked for a bit before it CUT out. do you think it might be because of overloading plug extentions.
i would like the pc up and running but if thats not gonna happen i will have to put the HARD drive in another computer to get the data (which im guessing is what you would of said).

Or i could go and buy another power supply to get it working for another 30 mins and get as much data as i can off it before that power pack blows lol

Thanks for the help!!
No need to start 2 topics for the same issue...So you're saying that your original power supply went kaflooy and the second one did the same?

Alan <><  what was the ratings of the power supplies which packed up?
300w for old processors very basic use .
400w for newer processor and reasonable office and internet use,
500w plus for gaming machines, video and al stars and whistles

a rough guideHow about some details on those power supplies, both the original one and the last one you installed?  And, some info on the computer.  What's in it? Kaflooy....nice one Alan.

6870.

Solve : My computer's not working!! power supply?

Answer»

My computer stoped working a while ago, iv'e got a laptop now so i havent missed it much but i want to get it sorted as soon as i can cause there is a lot of stuff on the HD that i would like on my laptop.

It all started when it wouldn't turn on, i pressed the power button and it comes on for a split second, the fan lights up and rotates once or twice, all other lights COME on for the same amount of time then it just cuts out.....
i went to buy another power SUPPLY thinking this was the PROBLEM. i put it in and everything was working FINE for about 30-45mins then it cut out again. i tryed turning it on again and the same thing happens, it will look like its working for about 0.5 of a second then its dead.

Any help would be very much apprieciatedsorry, forgot to say hello!! this is my first post so be nice and help me out lol.  Welcome to the forums.
What happened before this computer stopped working?
What make and model is it?
And do you want the PC up and running again, or just the data from the HDD?sorry i put the reply in a new post  Sorry just a quick message

just want to make clear the power does come on but only for a split second, like by the time my finger is off the button the power cuts out. but the power supply must not be completely dead cause there is power there its just not staying on.
i think its the power supply cause i got a new one and it worked but after HALF and hour that one went too. If they are cheapo $25.00 PSU's this could go on for weeks.
Do you know someone who has a known working one you can borrow to determine if this is the issue ? ?

6871.

Solve : Computer powers up, but no beep, just hard drive loading?

Answer»

Tried ISOLATING the components - disconnected the CD-ROM, HDD, FDD, as well as RAM, and it STILL gives me the same nonsense.

It all started when my Mum was formatting some Floppy disks, and suddenly the screen went all haywire (system hang + purple/orange/green mishmash of colours and text)... after that, it just refused to boot up consistently.

The only major component I installed recently was a 19" LCD WS monitor (from 17") with a direct power supply from a wall outlet.

I can hear the HDD (if its connected) loading, but there is no 'beep' that signifies that the system is loading normally, and the screen remains BLANK. Disturbingly, it randomly (PERHAPS 1 out of 10 times) gets past the boot screen, but then hangs at the Windows 'Welcome' screen.

Can anyone pls help me. I am at the end of my tether on this.Sounds like the power supply might have gone bad and taken the motherboard with it.  Do you have a spare power supply you can try?

ALAN <><  Thanks for the reply... I do have a spare everything, but i was hoping for a rather simpler-to-resolve solution to this 

Well, now IF it actually boots up, it simply LOADS a little before stating "Missing Operating System". I intend to use a boot disk and try to repair this problem... I don't have a backup and my Mum will have a fit if all her Email backups are gone ><

6872.

Solve : Beginner at building PLEASE SUGGEST UPGRADE ROUTES!?

Answer»

I am currently using a computer that I bought from a local computer store LIKE 2-3 years ago. I want to upgrade it and get it running alot faster and smoother.

I currently have a

Asus A7V8X-X Motherboard
512 MB Ram
Nvidia GeForce 5200 (I believe could be 5600)
An AMD Athalon XP 2200 I believe but that could be wrong.

Anyway I want to upgrade so I can run multiple monitors smoothly(I realize I already can), I want to use a TV Tuner on this and be ABLE to easily record programs and what not without lag or any PROBLEMS. Overall I just want to upgrade and take my computer into the year 2007!

Thanks, and PLeAse help me out. I have about $500 to spend on upgrades.Got An AMD Athlon XP 2200 here, with 512MB of RAM and an FX5200 AGP card.  It also has a PCI video card in it and runs two monitors smoothly. 

I don't know how demanding the TV tuner and recording programs will be.  I'd guess you might be able to increase RAM to 1GB and get a better video card and get along fine with this.  But, again, this is somewhat of a guess.  Those two upgrades would LEAVE you well under $500.

Now, if you want to go further and replace the motherboard and processor, I'll leave that discussion to others here in the forum.  However, this should all fit into your $500 budget.

You know, you could just go ahead and install the TV tuner in your CURRENT system and see how it goes before deciding on any upgrades.

6873.

Solve : DVD-ROM wont read data disk but will audio disk?

Answer»

Well my DVD-ROM has up and quit working.  It has no problem reading my audio CD.  It does this with Musicmatch Jukebox.  However when I put a data disk in the drive doesn't recognize it.  MY computer just shows up as D:.  When I click on the drive I get a box that SAYS "Install disk"  I imagine I did something like deleted the program that read data files or something like that (is there even such a thing).  Basically what I need is help or a reference to diagnosing the root of the problem.

Dell Pentium 4 dual core 3.4 GHZ
1.5Ram
Samsung DVD-Rom SD-616E (problem drive)

Ps I recently Downloaded the Nero 7 ultra smart start to see if that had any tips (not sure why) but obviously it didn't help.

Thanks in advanceYou can try this...go to Device MANAGER and right click on the DVD drive and select uninstall.

When you re-boot Windows will automatically re-install the device...

Let us know.Well I tried just about everything I could imagine and did all the tricks that were previously posted on this forum.

I ended up buying a new DVDrom from Best Buy.

Thanks for the imput.

Everything is RUNNING like a scalded dog now Glad to hear you got it SOLVED...seems like the lifespan on optical drives is getting shorter and shorter.
When i got my LAST DVD burner i bought 2 of them. One is in the box in storage.

6874.

Solve : ZIF SSD upgrade?

Answer»

need a recommendation on a ZIF SSD for the HP mini 1000

what can you think is the best option? Would like to get one at LEAST 80GB or grater You MAY struggle with this as from a bit of READING, there are several PROBLEMS reported where drives just aren't compatible.  Does it currently have an SSD or HDD in it?  It looks as though the HDDS offered were 1.8" 40-pin IDE drives, not sure if the SSDs were also IDE but if so, an upgrade will be hard to find and not cost-effective as that's a very uncommon interface.well right now it has an HDD and it is connected via ribbon cable like the keyboard.... it is a 1.8" HDD

I mean even another HDD would be fine... I just wanna install windows 7 without wiping the factory Windows XP offWhy not just image the disk you have to an external device and then image it back if you want to put XP back on? Quote from: camerongray on June 08, 2015, 12:46:34 PM

Why not just image the disk you have to an external device and then image it back if you want to put XP back on?

ok and how would I do that?
6875.

Solve : Looking for a new gaming laptop?

Answer»

I'm looking for a new gaming laptop

- Unfortunately due to my current living situation it MUST be a laptop

- Preferably 18" screen with 1920x1080 resolution, or 17" screen

- I know I don't need it for gaming but I'd still PREFER an i7

- Minimum of 4GB RAM, preferably 8GB RAM but no more than 16GB

- Weight is not an issue

- SSD not required, but certainly welcome

- Looking to play GAMES on Max/High settings with 60fps with a GTX 980M or GTX 980M SLI

-Must have a optical drive
 
-Must have a BUILT in mic

-Webcam optional

-Battery life is irrelevant because I will be plugged in whenever in use.

$3000 budget

I've done a little bit of research and I know I DON'T want an Alienware, ASUS, Dell, Acer or Lenovo. I've been considering a $3000 configuration of a Sager laptop from xoticpc.com but I'm open to recommendations (hence this thread). If anyone has any recommendations for a $3000 configuration of a gaming laptop that exactly or closely fits these requirements I'd APPRECIATE them.

Again, unfortunately it MUST be a laptop.

I suggest you gaming laptop in dell and hp . Both of the companies have famous laptop models that are designed for gamer (the Dell XPS and the HP Blackbird) and Dell even owns Alieware, a very popular name in gaming machinery material.

Affiliate LINK Removed...

6876.

Solve : Centering image on LCD?

Answer»

While adjusting settings in the NVIDIA Control Panel I pressed the "Auto" button on the front panel of my hpx19 LCD. The image on my screen immediately jump five INCHES or so to the right, leaving a black border on the left. Image bleeding off the right side.  Resolution set at 1400x900 (suggested setting). When I reset to 1360x768 I can get a full MONITOR image but I'd rather have the higher res.
I've tried resetting from the monitor and all adjustments from DISPLAY in control panel. I've uninstalled/installed new and old nvidia drivers. Reinstalled the monitor DRIVER. Had an online chat w/ HP. Plus most anything ELSE I could think of. So far no luck.
Even tried resetting the system to an earlier date (which it said it couldn't do for some reason?)
Anyone out there run across this problem before?
Thanks for any help.Check the manual that came with the monitor.  In it should be instructions on how to reset the screen.

Alan <><

6877.

Solve : Boot up troubles?

Answer»

When i boot my computer, i get no beep msg's, and i can get into the OS but after i get the booting screen, it goes downhill from there.

Basically, my computer screen is being sent the info, but it doesnt come in clearly, and it won't get past cirtain parts of the boot up (not sure which ones because the screen in unreadable). The screen is all grey blocks, with some letters coming through but mostly just a blob that you cant decifer.

If someone has had this problem before and could direct me to how to fix it , id appreciate it We'll need more info on the machine OS etc but right now you could TRY another monitor and see if it does the same thing...
If it does chances are the Vid Card has taken a dump.OS is AMIBIOS version 0302 !
256 6800 Nvidea video card (fan is working on the card)
3.2 mhz pentium
Had the computer for 2 years this summer.


thanks for ya'z help. OS = OPERATING system Win98, XP Pro etc.Windows XP, home.
Goes from this

To this...

To the dead screen, and computer STILL running.1st suggestion let it run as long as it takes.
2nd suggestion try booting into safemode and see if that works properly.

If not you will need an XP CD to try some fixes... do you have one ? ?

Did you try another monitor ? ?I let it run for an hour, didnt work.
Try'd a different screen, didnt work.
I attempted to run it in safe mode, same thing happened.

and yes, i have a XP CD. Went into the XP install and...

Looks to me like that video card has gone South...do you have another one you can borrow and swap in there to confirm this ? ?Since i don't, and i dont know anyone who uses PCI express AROUND i sent it in to get checked so when i get the results..

ill be sure to post it here Good Luck to you...

6878.

Solve : Read Write Drive won't open?

Answer»

I put a cd in my read/write drive on my Gateway DESKTOP to download some pictures.  Now I can't get the drawer to open when I push the eject button so I can't get the cd out.  Any ideas..THANKS  Rickbeechman .....Ok ...... try this .... go to My Computer ........ put your cursor on the cd drive that won't open , right click and click on eject .

If that won't open it , get a paper clip , open it up ( look for a small hole ) insert the end of the paper clip in the hole ( it should slid in maybe 1/2" )and then you should feel it stop.... put a bit more pressure and the manual RELEASE should move BACK and you will be able to open the drawer that way.

dl65  If what dl65 doesn't work, reboot the computer.

Alan <><

6879.

Solve : Printer doesn't print far left margin characters.?

Answer»

When I print pages from the Web, my HP OFFICEJET 7130 printer does not print the first two characters of the lines, if they are all the way to the left.  It seems like the printer margins need to be set because it's almost printing off the page on the right side as well.

Any help would be *greatly* appreciated.

Thank you,
Debbie  Welcome : I have had problems printing from the web before too.  Look on the pages your trying to print and see  if there is a button  on the bottom or top right that SAYS  "printer FRIENDLY".......  you might have other issues here but try that first....   

click on the printer friendly button and a pop-up window should come up with the text you WANT with no  pictures inside of it......

  Thank you for your response. It does print with margins OK when there is a "Printer Friendly" version to print, but otherwise it prints outside of the PRINTABLE page on the left.

6880.

Solve : zonealarms is blocking everything?

Answer»

hey my MATES pc has zonealarms on it and his mum is a cow and wont TAKE it off and i was WONDERING how could he make his pc account admin so he doesnt have zonealarams on his pc account

or any other way to do it You say that it is blocking everything".  Does that mean he can't get on the Internet or just can't get to the sites he wants to go to? 

As far as OVERRIDING the admin account please don't look for help here.  She put ZA on for a REASON.   


Alan <><

6881.

Solve : Can't get into BIOS (No signal on monitor). Any help appreciated?

Answer»

I am building a new system, I think I got every thing covered (obviously I missed something but don't know what); put everything in PLACE, hook up every cable correctly, but when I turn on the system, there is no reaction on the monitor (Monitor is on and cable is securely in place). I know the system suppose to go into BIOS even though I have not yet install OS, but apparently there is no signal go into my monitor, it just keep telling me to check signal cable.

-I am pretty sure the parts I bought are compatible for this motherboard (Asus P5B)
-I am pretty sure I install CPU and cooling fan correctly. And the CPU fan is going when I turn on the system.
-Motherboard LED is on, so that means the motherboard power is on.
-Video card: I am sure it is secure in place and the fan on video card is going, so I am sure card is functional

Please HELP me as what trouble shooting steps I can do to find the problem, any help is appreciated.


System info:
-Motherboard: Asus P5B
-Video card: EVGA e-GeForce 8800 GTS (PCI-E)
-Memory: Patriot 2GB DDR2 PC2-6400  800 MHz (1GB x 2)
-OS: XP SP2 (haven't install yet because I can't get into bios)
-DVD rom is up and ready
-HD is ready too (new HD with nothing on it)

Thank you very much
Strip the system of everything but the motherboard / video / RAM.  Boot the system.  Do you POST?  If so, start adding one COMPONENT at a time, starting with the keyboard, mouse, etc., until the system fails.  Usually the last component INSTALLED is the culprit...though not always.
 
Alan <><
6882.

Solve : 330W or 660W AC Adapter for 980M SLI?

Answer»

I'm considering a Eurocom X8 with 980M SLI and the sales rep I'm talking to says I'll need a 660W AC adapter instead of a 330W adapter for 980M SLI. I understand that SLI consumes extra power but both the MSI GT80 and the Sager NP9377 with 980M SLI from xoticpc.com come with 330W AC adapters, without an option for a 660W AC adapter. Is there any reason why? Should I SPEND the extra $245 for the 660W AC adapter or will the 330W AC adapter be sufficient for 980M SLI?

I'm considering the Eurocom X8 configured with

120Hz display
CPU: i7-4710MQ OR i7-4810MQ
GPU: GTX 980M SLI
16 GB RAM
SSD: Micron/Crucial M500 480GB
HDD: 1TB 7200rpm

I've never overclocked before and I don't plan on it but I want to make use of my 980M SLI so should I spend the extra $245 for the 660W AC Adapter? Thanks.Well, the 980M's power consumption is rated at just around 100W, so allow 200W for the graphics cards, another 50W for the CPU, leaving you 80W for the rest of the system - a rough and ready calculation but I would conclude that 330W should be adequate although I'd expect the power brick to get somewhat warm or even hot when you're putting the system under considerable load.  Bearing in MIND that you're almost never going to have both GPUS and the CPU under the maximum possible load at the same time outside of benchmarking/stress testing, I can't see that the lower rated adapter would cause a problem.
Look at it this way - if 330W was not sufficient for the LAPTOP as configured, other resellers would simply not offer it as an option.  The 660W option GIVES you headroom for overclocking and, probably more importantly, a better margin for the reseller Sounds like the market people are going for the sales curve.
Going 600 watts realty sounds like overkill. Wit a little effort the 300 watt supply could have been make to handle 400 watts for short term heavy loads.
But ignore me. That is just a reaction.

6883.

Solve : Cooling my pc?

Answer»

Hello. I built a NEW rig some months ago, here it is: i5 4690k 3.5 ghz with Cooler CPU Arctic Cooling Alpine 11 GT rev.2 , gtx 660 2 gb , 8 gb ram , my mobo is a gigabyte micro-atx h81m-s2v.I'm using the pc for gaming mostly.
My problem is cooling..my idle temp for gpu is 35 C and while in load it raises to 80 C and it's pretty loud while in full load..but I am more concerned about my cpu which is at 38-41 C idle and it goes up to 75 C while gaming..with the stock cooler the temps were +10C higher...can't buy hyper evo 212 or  any other big coolers because of my micro atx...What should i do? I cant afford changing any big components in my rig , as I invested too much money on this rig ( i bought i5 4690k last month , when i 1st built the rig i had an i3) I also have a spot for a 92 mm fan on the back of my pc , would that drop the temp? Should i reseat the cooler? I just don't know...
What do you have at the moment in terms of case fans? Quote

also have a spot for a 92 mm fan on the back of my pc , would that drop the temp? Should i reset the cooler? I just don't know...
Your temps are withing a safe RANGE. But you could add a fan to the box. That would be a low cost investment ant not require any mods to what you already have.
Ideally, you should have at least one fan that blows into the box and one  exhaust fan. But if only one fan, the blower fan is more important .
http://www.xoxide.com/computer-cooling.html
Cooling a Computer  - Xoxide
Look over his REMARKS about negative pressure inside the case.
Hope that helps. 

EDIT: I disagree with that author about the negative pressure being BETTER. Dirt and dust are never better. Dust, more that anything, will ruin your cooling efficiency.   I say avoid negative pressure.Thanks. Knowing that my temps will not harm the computer  helps.
I said that i have a spot at the back of the case for a 92mm fan but the distance between holes are 85 mm..I read somewhere that 85 mm distance from hole to hole means a 92 mm fan , is that true?That is true yes.  Again, what case fans do you have at the moment and what spaces does your case have?I dont have any case fans...i have space for a back fan and i think that also for a small rear fan ( but i dont think i can put a rear fan because of the cables and i see only 1 sys_fan on my mobo)Surely a rear fan and a back fan are the same thing?  You should definitely get a rear fan to exhaust air out and also ideally a front fan taking air in.  This case certainly doesn't sound like it's designed to hold a powerful machine with dedicated video card, you may want to consider upgrading to a better case.Sorry  , I tought rear means side xD .  So i have space for a 92 mm fan on the back and a small one on the rear (connected to the psu) . Indeed , my case is pretty bad for this TYPE of syste, it doesnt have any kind of holes in front of it.I would really recommend upgrading the case then to something that has at least a rear and front fan - You could get something really cheaply that would do the job or spend a bit more for something reasonably made.Oh the woes of micro ATX builders...
6884.

Solve : IBM LAPTOP MEMORY SDRAM?

Answer»

Im using IBM Laptop with 2 64MB SDRAM CHIPS, and when im trying to upgrade to 1 chip of 256MB SDRAM, total Memory 320MB RAM, then try to turn ON the Laptop, the message on screen is
   Corrupt Files!
   PRESS "r" to start repair and insert the CD-ROM.
anybody can HELP me here.......Start it with the old, WORKING RAM, to see if the new RAM is the problem.
Are you sure that the new RAM is compatible?
How old is this laptop?

6885.

Solve : problem with ac adapter?

Answer»

i have hp PAVILLION ze4900 and i have a problem with my ac adapter or the comp, i got a new ac adapter and it still wont CHARGE, unless i press the very piece of the ac adapter that is right near the comp to the bottom then it charges for a bit as long as i COULD hold it, since the ac adapter is new im guessing its a problem with my comp, can ANYONE help me with fixing it?This is normally a JOB for a professional.

CheckHere

6886.

Solve : IBM LAPTOP UPGRADE?

Answer»

i want to upgrade my IBM Laptop, here the spec:
         Pentium III 450Mhz
         128MB SDRAM
         10G Hard Disk
         OS Windows XP.
   the internet speed, 384kbps, when im using webcam to webcam calls slow motion image and SOMETIMES its hung up. anybody can help me?what series do you have?  Pentium III 450Mhz  (model?)

really the only thing you might try is more (INCREASE) the memory... laptops are so expensive to PAY someone to work on, your better off buying another or a nice desktop.im using IBM Thinkpad R390X 2626I did a little checking on that model, kinda hard to get info on....then came ACROSS this specific page for parts and possible upgrades... Check it out and  get an idea what I mean on the costs to improvement  ratio

http://www.impactcomputers.com/ibmparts-ibm-thinkpad-thinkpad-390-parts-ibm-thinkpad-390x-2626--15-1-tft--parts.htmlWell, solving your memory problem will probably help with this.  Also, is your Internet speed actually close to 384Kbps or somewhat less?  That can affect webcam use.Agree with soybean, your computer is memory-starved.
I've never tried to run XP on 128MB, but it must be painfully slow.

You have two memory slots (sockets) on your laptop, and they will hold a max of 256MB each for a total of 512MB.
I would aquire a pair of 256MB modules and retire/sell the single 128MB.

For a computer of that vintage try to find some used memory, rather than paying the HIGH price of new.
Here is a link to the specifications that your new memory will need to comply with. There are (3) letters at the end of your model that I guessed at, so please verify that from within the link :
http://www.18004memory.com/result.asp?modelID=13352&mfgID=46&pclass=0

As a price comparison, here in the States that memory (256MB PC100 SODIMM) sells for a $20USD used and you can see that it is $75USD new here in this link.

6887.

Solve : Old laptop without DVD?

Answer»

Is it possible to LOAD info from a DVD into my laptop with only a CD drive?  Considered copying DVD info onto a Flash Drive and then attempting to load onto hard drive from that (would that work)?  Can't seem to find an external DVD drive suitable for a laptop.  Is one available at reasonable cost?  Just for info I'm in Australia and may not be able to use some suppliers you have there.  Thanks for the anticipated assistance you may be able to give.You will need to either (1) use software to copy the entire DVD onto a flash drive and use software to emulate a DVD drive on your laptop or (2) buy an external DVD drive.
(1) is not very practical because of how much space DVDs take up.
(2) is the best way to do this.  An external DVD drive for my laptop cost me £40 (GBP that is), not sure how much that is over there.
All you need is one that connects via USB (that's the most widely used connector anyway).
Hope this helps.Thanks Calum
Checked around after I left this mseesage and can find two external drives available.  The cost here is around AUD 200 so will check further.  Was looking at putting some maps on the HD - 3.71gb using a 4gb flash drive.  Being POOR with my standard of computer literacy and no real urgency at the moment, will LOOK at an external drive or maybe lashing out and upgrading the computer.  Thanks again for your help.That's pretty expensive, that's like £80 in my money.
I'll check around too, see if I can find some good Australian retailers that will give you a better deal.
You will not be able to easily upgrade the laptop with a DVD drive, it's pretty complicated and only for people who really know what they are doing.
An external drive will be your best option, I'm sure.
Anyway, I'll look around for you.Calum,

BAD choice of words on my part.  By upgrade I meant to buy a new and updated computer and use this one as a wheel chock.

Thanks for your help. Quote from: rustytruck on April 01, 2007, 07:48:30 AM

Calum,

Bad choice of words on my part.  By upgrade I meant to buy a new and updated computer and use this one as a wheel chock.

Thanks for your help.

Wheel chock...i like that one !Ah, I see.
Wheel clock, nice one.
Made me laugh.
Buying a new computer is an option, but like any investment it's worth considering whether you really need one, and if it'd be worth the money.And if you are considering a new MACHINE you might want to think about desktop vs. laptop...

Portability is definitely nice but a desktop system will always give you more bang for your buck along with wider choices on a future upgrade path...

Just food for thought.If your laptop has bays that allow removing and inserting other optional peripherals, you might want to check the manufacturers site to see if they have   a DVD drive that can be inserted in a bay, and whether your model will support such a device.Thanks to all for replies.   Need the laptop for interfacing with the GPS for remote area travel and the new maps are on DVD instead of CD.  For Patio, have a good desk top with DVD to set up the maps but alas none on the laptop to use them.   For Hacker, will check on your suggestion.
6888.

Solve : DVD RW is gone from Control Panel (and everywhere else)?

Answer»

Just the facts....

Laptop
Compaq Presario V2000

DVD/CD rw is no longer working ... although inserting a disc does give some mechanical sounds        of 'spinning', that is all...

System information no longer shows the dvd/cd device at all
Control Panel......... no longer shows the dvd/cd device at all
Compaq's website diagnostic no longer shows the dvd/cd device at all

tried restoring and installing 'new' hardware...


Anybody have any ideas on how i may be able to recover this?

Thanks in advance...

Brett

Is there an ejector BUTTON to remove that unit ? ?
If so remove it and look inside with a flashlight to see if any foreign objects ur DUST BUILDUP is in there.
Remember to do this with the power and battery both removed.
Replace the drive in it's housing and see if this chelps.
If not the drive is probably dead. Sometimes the optics go but the MECHANICS still work.
To verify it has failed find a similar laptop and TRY it in there.Awesome ideas patio...

I'll try them shortly.

Thanks

6889.

Solve : Haunted Motherboard??

Answer»

I could really use some help…

I’m trying to re-build my old computer with a new…
Intel D955XBK I955X Socket 775 ATX Motherboard
Intel Pentium D 820 2.80GHz 800MHz 2MB processor         
Antec SmartPower 2.0 SP-400 400 WATT Power
1GIG DDR2 RAM
Nvydia 64mb Graphics card
(The case; hard drives & optical drives are all parts from my old setup.)
The only thing that I currently connected to the MOBO is the power source; the processor; the fan; the RAM and the video card (NONE of the drives are in any way connected) and I have already TRIED to clear the CMOS.

The problem I’ve been suffering through is that- First, the only way that I can get it to power on is by removing the onboard “coin” size battery-then keeping it out for a few seconds-then after reinstalling it-turning the power on, and BINGO it turns on!

Second, when I try to finally get in and adjust the settings in the BIOS it LOCKS up and would not allow me to go any further than a “TAB” two to the MAINTAINANCE or the to the MAIN-(when I got it to tab to the MAIN it showed that it recognized the type of primary parts of my computer…MOBO; Processor; RAM). Then after about 90 seconds the system just SHUT down. I went through the removing the battery thing and got it going again, only to have it shut down again and again…

Please help!!!
Did you use the standoffs for the MBoard when assembling ? ?
Did you remember to use thermal compound when assembling the CPU ? ?
Have you properly hooked up the mini wires to Header 1 which controls all the case switches ? ?

Is this a new PSU or a used one ? ?

On a new build you shouldn't be fooling with the BIOS at this time....use the default settings until you are up and running.

6890.

Solve : audio cd wont run?

Answer»

ok, basically, my new Queen greatest hits I II and III wont run on my computer. when i load the cd's into the drive, it chugs a bit, but refuses to recognise the cd. if i click My Computer, and click on the cd rom drive icon and click on properties, it just says the disk is blank. my other cd's work perfectly, so what could be the problem? i'm running xp home service pack 2 if that helpsAre these copies that someone made or are they factory CD's ? ?

Sounds LIKE they were not burned properly...they are fresh from the factory. i think maybe the FILES on the cd are in a different codec than normal? that what a FRIEND told meWill they play in a regular CD player (not on a computer)?

Alan <><  chk if they play on a Audio System and if there is prob.. chk with ur friends and nothing work possibly go for a replacement.....


yep they play just fine in a cd playerthen it must be written in a different format.. it wont ALLOW u to copy them... its normal with Audio CDs.... they are written in a diff format.. man....it will be some kind of mdb files that cant be read by some player.

But not opening might be some ISSUE...... Since it has yet to be mentioned i'll bite...what program are you attempting to play them with ? ?ive tried itunes, window media player, and ive tried just launching it from theMy Computer menuDLoad VLC media player (free) and see if it plays them.

6891.

Solve : deskjet and inkjet?

Answer»

what the DIFFERENCE between DESKJET and INKJET?HTTP://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inkjet_printer

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deskjet

6892.

Solve : Case and watercooling Advice?

Answer» Hey guys, at first i wanna mainly ask about what case and what kind of best water-cooling option would you suggest for me. Price really doesn't matter.
Although I am in the UK so it must be available in the EU.


First Specs  I am going for are follows:

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (Pretty sure about this one)
Motherboard:Asus MAXIMUS VII HERO ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (Pretty sure about this one)
RAM: G.Skill TRIDENT X 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (Might change)
Storage: SSD: 850EVO 250GB and Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Pretty sure about this one)
GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 980TI (Not so sure but pretty sure)
PSU: Antec High Current Pro Platinum 1000W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Pretty sure)
Optical Drive: Pioneer BDR-S09XLT Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer (Pretty sure)
Sound Card: Asus Xonar Essence STX 24-bit 192 KHz Sound Card (pretty sure)
Case Fans: Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan (4x+ - Pretty sure)


Now the parts i need really help with is the case and cooling.

The cases I might wanna go for are: Cooler Master Cosmos II OR Corsair 900D
I like Cosmos 2 little bit more cause it looks more cool but i think it doesn't fit triple radiators.
If you know about any other case that can be used i take any ideas!:)

The other thing is cooling, I want Basic Water Cooling Loop - CPU and GPU
What i want is advice about what to use, if there are any good kits that would fit for my socket and Case.
But if someone can give me specific parts list or specific Kit that I can get which includes tubes, reservoir and everything else I will be verry happy.
Price doesn't matter really but I don't want to spend more than £250 on the KIT.

Thank you for any advice!:)

The Cosmos II is more designed for air cooling than high-end water cooling, realistically for that setup you'll want at least 360mm worth of radiator, though 480mm would be better.  The 900D is one of the go-to cases for newbies to water cooling as well as experts simply because it offers enormous potential out of the box.  There are other options available, one that springs to mind is the Phanteks Enthoo Primo which also supports a 480mm top radiator, but if you like the cavernous 900D there's no reason you shouldn't go for it.

Really the WC components you buy will depend how you want your loop to look, but the basic list you'll need is: CPU block, GPU block, 480mm radiator (to go the easy route of one radiator in the top of the case with 4 x 120mm fans), pump, reservoir (you could get a pump/res combo but I normally recommend separate items) and 10 fittings, then say 3 or 4 meters of tubing so you have more than enough.
Because there's so much choice out there you might want to speak to a retailer to build up a list that matches your preference in terms of looks - I can recommend www.overclockers.co.uk for this as they can help you decide what you want and their prices are usually fairly competitive, service is good too.  If you'd rather make your own decisions, no worries, I'm happy to help here (and I'm sure others are too) but there is a lot to go through with each component and I wouldn't want you to end up buying something you're not happy with the looks of.

Regarding your component list above the only thing I'll say is that your PSU is way overkill for your needs, a decent 750W unit would still provide you ample headroom for expansion and would save you money compared to that 1000W unit.  Total system power consumption with a GTX 980Ti is in the regiin of 400W here, add in some overclocking headroom and another 980Ti in case you want to go SLI and 750W is still adequate.Hi thank you for great help!:)

As PSU goes yes I might ho lower, I want to do later SLI another 980TI but that has time.

Cases CONSIDERING i really wanted Cosmos 2 because it just looks really cool!:) but Looks like i will buy 900D in the end:)still not 100% sure thou.

I did post on forums on overclockers but no one responded there:(

I also want to ask how big difference is there for Air cooling and water-cooling?
At first i wanted to buy Noctua NH-D15, then i was like i really liked Swiftech H240-X but at the end friend convinced be to go full out with water cooling.
The first two choices seems eazy but unfortunately I never did watercooling before, so I am worried I might *censored* up really badly.

So are those two options a big difference compared to some 480mm radiators water cooling loop? Quote from: Lightdark on June 07, 2015, 05:17:25 PM
As PSU goes yes I might ho lower, I want to do later SLI another 980TI but that has time.

Yeah, just saying even if you do a 750W unit will be fine.  It's not that buying a 1000W unit will harm anything, it's just spending more than you really need to.

Quote
Cases considering i really wanted Cosmos 2 because it just looks really cool!:) but Looks like i will buy 900D in the end:)still not 100% sure thou.

If you're considering air cooling, the Coolermaster will likely do a better job - will expand on this below.

Quote
I did post on forums on overclockers but no one responded there:(

Was it in the main forums, or on the customer service forums?  Could you PM me a link?

Quote
I also want to ask how big difference is there for Air cooling and water-cooling?

Essentially with water cooling you'll have more flexibility, e.g. you could have a very quiet watercooled setup that cooled as well as a noisy air cooler, or a noisy watercooled setup that cools better than any air cooled setup, or anything in between - you're limited only by your space and your budget.  That SAID, you're unlikely to gain much through watercooling in this instance, as you have the budget to buy an excellent air cooler (such as the NH-D15 you suggested) which will be both quiet and PERFORM well, and the 980Ti won't be hugely loud either.  I have never recommended a closed-loop cooler such as the Corsair Hydro series, or many of the prebuilt kits, simply because they lose one of the main advantages of water-cooling which is flexibility and expansion.
Taking into account what you've said, I'd advise either sticking with high-end air cooling, and choosing an appropriate case (the Cosmos II would be better for air cooling than the 900D), or going with proper water-cooling but perhaps getting someone to build it for you if you're unsure.  It's not enormously difficult but you do run the risk of causing damage, I built my first few watercooled systems with colleagues before I started going it alone and felt much more comfortable this way.
Overclockers will build you a custom system or make changes to their range to suit you, and they do watercooled setups, so again it might be worth either posting on their customer support area or giving them a ring to discuss your options if you want to explore the idea of them building you a watercooled system. 

Hope this helps give you some food for thought Now that u said that I am not sure, here is the link:

http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18675246

Thank you for the great help btw, yeah I might go wit hair cooling and cosmos 2 in the end:)still I have some time to decide:)It may be worth creating a new thread in their watercooling section here - http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=133 - for advice from members, or in their customer service section here - http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=117 - for advice from staff (or if you fancy asking them to build it).

That said I'm happy to help you here with watercooling advice, but I do agree with one point from your thread there, that £250 may not be enough for your watercooling kit, so you may want to consider air cooling as it'll be cheaper and easier to build.
6893.

Solve : Vanishing Photos?

Answer»

Windows 7 premium
Windows Firewall
AVAST anti Spyware
Spyware Blaster
Win Patrol

I have a Kazam Trooper 2, 4.5 mobile ,'phone which has a camera. When I CONNECT via usb to the computer a box used to come up asking if I wanted to DOWNLOAD photos. I have not changed anything, but this does not happen.

Tried a Nokia 'phone with same result.

I can go to My Computer and find the phone, but no photos show though they are still on the phone.

Any suggestions please how to download them on to the computer from the mobile phone?When phone is connected can you find the phones photo storage LOCATION via My Computer to find a drive letter that looks like a flash drive is attached or phone attached, and then tree down in here for photos and the manually select and copy them from their to the computers C: drive at wherever you want them to reside?  My wifes one cell phone I had to get images off of it manually this way. Other cell phones come up and state that the drive is missing and so there is no way to get to the photos without software to allow for the phone to connect to the computer.Thanks for the reply.
I can find the phone in My Computer and EVEN the folder "Photos" in it but SHOWS as empty. Yet put it on an old Vista laptop and the photos can be downloaded normal way but th Autoplay box coming up as it used to in Windows 7.

6894.

Solve : Advice on upgrading Alienware M18x?

Answer»

My old Alienware M18x NEEDS a need power jack and I'm thinking I could use this opportunity to upgrade because I love the palm rest, keys, and screen. Honestly, I'm just not ready to say goodbye to it yet so I'd like to TRY to breath some new life into it if possible at all. I've seen videos on Youtube of CPU, GPU, RAM, SSD and HDD upgrades for the M18x and I'm curious about UPGRADING but I have no experience at all with upgrading components myself.

Right now my specs are as follows
i7-2630QM
4GB RAM
750 GB HDD
GTX 460M

I'd definitely like to try upgrading the GPU but I'm afraid my CPU will bottleneck a newer GPU. If I have to, how difficult WOULD it be to upgrade the CPU and what are my options? I want to upgrade the RAM and GPU at least. I'll probably give it to a laptop repair service for upgrading if I don't feel CONFIDENT enough to try it myself.Nothing wrong with those specs.
Do you have a game or application the runs slow?

6895.

Solve : Remove power onpassword please asssist?

Answer» HI anyone i NEED assistance please i need to remove a power on password for a Compaq 6715b
Take it to a Compaq DEALER with proof of LEGAL ownership.
No other legal WAY.
6896.

Solve : printer and web cam conflict? is it possible??

Answer»

like what the title says i installed and canon multipass L6000 printer and it WORKED perfectly... until i installed a logitec messenger web cam and the printer device said server is busy and the printer device manager shuts down and i cant print. and when i restart the computer the printer is online and works until the web cam manager starts up. what to do? the web cam is connected via USB and the printer via 25 pin parralel cable. its an windows XP pro mother board is ASUS.
thanks in advance!Once both are installed go into Device Manager and check for issues.  Post back with what you find.

Alan &LT;><  ok WELL i went to device manger and it shows no problems but  i also called canon  and told them the problem and they said its because of SP2 that it blocks the constant comunication of the printer and the computer. now could somone tell me how i could change from sp2 to sp1 with out losing files and asap?Hang on there.  I'd bet that advise from Canon is not correct.  Before you give any more thought to uninstalling SP2, I suggest you wait and see what further discussion ensues here. 

I have a Canon BJC-2000 printer attached to a parallel port.  I just connected my webcam and then printed SOMETHING and had no problem.  Granted, you have a different device so my test may not mean anything.

Have you checked Canon's website for the most current driver for your canon multipass L6000 printer?  Do they say that driver works with Win XP?  Go here for a Win XP driver if you don't already have it: MultiPASS L6000 Download Library
thanks for the effort but thats the driver i have and it still doesnt work i followed the instructions and it doesnt work i google this problem and ppl say it works for them i just dont know why not for me !help please!"they said its because of SP2 that it blocks the constant comunication of the printer and the computer"Exuses,excuses. They wrote the driver, they should make it work!

Don't give up yet. Have you tried to uninstall the printer driver? If you can, unimstall it in safe mode. After
that use RegCleaner (free download) to clean up your registry. Then download a fresh copy of the driver from Canon, reinstall it. This should work. If not, WRITE back.

B.its not totaly free i have t register it and i still have 63 problems left it stil doesnt work im not trying to be picky but i need to get it working by tomorow night and if no fix could you help me with the downgrade?marek1177 ..... I'm assuming you have the suggested driver...... Desktop Manager 3.01 for XP .......... but if you read the article included in the link provided, there is mention of changing bios settings...... Have you tried that ?
http://www.computer-u.com/techCanon.htm
Let us know.


dl65 
yess i have have tried that like 4 times i am all out of ideas i keep google this problem i got it to work but as soon as i restart the computer it stps i am starting to have a mental breakdown  i need this printer working by sunday afternoon! marek1177 ...... This isn't a fix , but it may just assist in doing the Sunday print job........  Get it to print as you have been able to do and then don't shut down the machine ........
As far as reverting back to SP1 ....... thats not a good idea at all.
I understand you like that printer, however it is old and despite the fact that it still does a good job, you should seriously consider replacing it.


dl65

6897.

Solve : Unable to boot to windows xp after deleting ubuntu partition?

Answer»

I have a old Windows xp desktop dual booted with ubuntu.
1 Gb RAM and 2.33 GHz Intel pentium 4 processor with no graphics card.
I recently deleted my ubuntu partition using windows disk management, on  rebooting after post the computer enters GRUB rescue mode.
I don't have windows xp repair disc or the software disc.
I tried the solution given at ubuntu forums
When I enter the insmod normal command it gives error unknown file system.
The ls command output is
(hd0)  (hd0,msdos5)  (hd0,msdos1)
On SEARCHING google for the unknown file system error I got links that suggested to use
ls (hd0)/  or  ls (hd0,msdos5)/  or  ls (hd0,msdos1)/ and see the partition which gives boot directory.
However all 3 commands give same error "unknown file system".
Another link asked me to use ubuntu live cd and use boot repair tool but unfortunately because the hardware is 10 years older to ubuntu's current version I get a black screen during BOOTING from live cd and none of the options like nomodeset nolapic etc work.

Please help me to solve this problem as it contains a lot of old personal files and photos.
Can a tool like EaseUS Data Recovery WIZARD Free Edition work ?
In order to repair it you would definitely need an XP CD...

That being said the data can easily be retrieved by connecting the HDD to a working desktop PC as a slave drive.

The drive does NOT have to be bootable to get your data.Hindsight. The OP should have made a backup of the XP system.
If another PC is available, you can get the recovery console on a bootable CD to try and repair\r the XP boot loader.
This might be of some help.
http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_xp-system/create-a-bootable-cd-emergency-repair-disc-for-xp/fc7b8e94-49ed-4f1e-962e-1abe5a30be50

If the OP has a real Windows XP product key, he can use a friends copy of XP to do repairs. But it must be the same version of XP.

Hi,

Like patio said, you will require XP bootable CD. Boot from the cd.

Press 'R' when it prompts to enter recovery console. Type the respective number for your windows partition as prompted. Login with the admin password (if any).

Type 2 commands one after another:
1) fixmbr
2) fixboot

restart your computer.I got a windows xp cd from a friend but I don't know how to enter recovery console i.e. when to press 'r'.
When I boot from the cd it loads all the drivers (different files are shown as loading at the bottom of the screen) and then the computer freezes at "setup is starting windows" message at the bottom.
The cd-rom also stops and ctrl+alt+del also doesn't work.
I tried pressing f5 when it boots from cd to force windows to allow the user to provide hardware information rather than detecting itself but yet it hangs at "setup is starting windows".
How do I solve this problem now ?
Please help.
You may need to start over with the BIOS settings.
Some computer makers began to use SATA hard drives in their PCs while XP did not have drivers for them.
One must go into the BIOS area a make sure the BIOS will let XP use the SATA drives in legacy mode. Without knowing more about your computer, it is hard to say if that is the issue or not.
Please tell what extra information you want to know exactly. Quote from: prathameshm1612 on June 09, 2015, 01:53:47 PM

Please tell what extra information you want to know exactly.
You said Quote
old Windows xp desktop
.
Hundreds, if not THOUSANDS of different models were made all over the globe. Each one would have different chips and options. The Make and Model helps to know if the thing had SATA with legacy. That information is found in the BIOS documents. If it did have it, it would have to be on to run XP. This was not a problem with many  dsitros of Linux.

Can you see if the BIOS had  legacy option for SATA?
Or do you know if the hard drive is SATA or the older 4/80 pin cable?

I'd try with another / different XP CD or another CD ROM such as usb DVD/RW rom.
6898.

Solve : Tandy 1000EX with hard drive - need help?

Answer»

I have a Tandy 1000EX with 2 floppies and added memory/expansion board, serial board, CM-11 monitor and DMP130 printer that I just started to resurrect after it sat for over10 years in my garage. It mostly works OK, booting off the internal 5.25, 360k floppy drive, i can switch to the second, external floppy - also 5.25, 360k, but the computer will no longer acknowledge my added-on 65mb hard drive. Although Tandy swore (in writing) that it was not possible, through long and diligent searching in the late 80's, early 90's, I was able to find and add a WD-1004-27x hard drive controller board with an adapter that actually fit inside the EX, with a Seagate ST277-R (RLL) 65mb hard drive, in an external enclosure with a separate power supply. I followed the instructions from Hard Drives International after I got it (over 25 years ago), and it worked fine. I do not recall if it would boot off the hard drive, but I don't think so. I recently tried to boot off the floppy drive and got several messages due to some corrupted files. My old DOS 5.0 boot disk was sitting in the floppy drive for about 10 years, so I'm not surprised. The hard drive powered up and seemed to be ready to use. However, with all the corrupted files (like the autoexec and config.sys ), the computer will no longer recognize or switch to the C: drive. I have tried reformatting the HD using the DEBUG command, which it apparently did (3 times), but the computer re-boots after it finishes the FORMATTING and will not recognize the drive so I can CONTINUE with partitioning or high level formatting. I think there should be some command in either the autoexec.bat or config.sys file that tells the computer to look for the hard drive, but after all this time, I don't recall and cannot figure out what is should be.  Does anyone who may have successfully added a hard drive to a Tandy 1000EX (or maybe an HX) know what the command would be that will get the computer to recognize the Hard drive? I am interested in getting this going again for the purpose of selling it, so it is somewhat important that this WORK. Any helpful suggestions will be tried. I don't know about altering or upgrading the BIOS, I don't even know if it is possible with this computer. The BIOS is 1.02.00, I think. If it would provide any clue, I can post the contents of the existing autoexec and config files.
Thanks. You can post your responses here, or send them directly to me at email address removed by Allan
Fred Quote

but the computer re-boots after it finishes the formatting

In DOS, the computer should not be rebooting itself after format is complete. It should just complete and stay running.

*** Posting your e-mail here for everyone to see if dangerous as for you can have your e-mail picked up by a spam server and all of a sudden get an inrush of junkmail. I'm notifying a moderator to remove your e-mail so that its hidden from spam servers.

I never had a Tandy 1000, but I did have other systems of that era of computer. I am guessing that the BIOS config is performed via dip switches like the IBM and Clones of that period. However some systems had setup disks required to configure the BIOS. My guess is that you NEED to acquire the BIOS setup disks if any exist because otherwise dip switch settings would not have changed and so 10 years later the HDD should work just as it did 10+ years ago. Depending on humidity in the garage the HDD controller and HDD could also be junk now. I have seen many systems rot away in garages, cellars, and sheds and partially work when powered after a long storage in not the best environment.tandy - I deleted your email address. The way support forums work is all questions and response are posted on the forum for all to see. Thank you for your cooperation.On top of that it should be mentioned you saved his Inbox from boatloads of SPAM...Thank you, moderator, for the schooling on forum decorum. I appreciate the advice and no spam.
Dave,
Thank you for the info. I have explored the guts of the EX, as well as scouring the technical manual. Nothing mentions dip switches and none are to be found. On the other hand, the hard drive SEEMS to be operating OK, it starts and does seem to go thru the usual exercises that a hard drive goes thru. Also, I get the appropriate responses to the debug command, depending on which options I choose, so I can't say for sure that either one is mis-behaving. It's just that rebooting business. It is a consistent thing (i.e. 3 times in a row). It goes thru the formatting process and then reboots.  I haven't found any information referring to BIOS updates for the EX. I once had a letter from Tandy stating that the 1000EX was not intended to EVER have a hard drive. Oddly enough, in the technical manual, reference IS made to a hard disk controller--  on page 28 in the discussion of interrupt functions--"The 8259A  (chip) is the source of the INT for the 8088. The 8259A has eight interrupt inputs controlled through software commands. It can mask (disable) and prioritize to generate INT. These eight interrupts are:
#0 Timer Channel 0 (Software timer)
#1 Keyboard (Keyboard code received)
#2 Hard Disk Controller (Optional function, Interrupt on Bus
#3       etc"
The Floppy disk function is on INT #6

On page 45, it further shows in the I/O summary, that Block 0032-0032F is RESERVED for Hard Disk. 
So, they apparently had a chip that was ABLE to handle a hard drive, but it appears it was never enabled. I suppose the 28 watt power supply that they had in the EX was not up to the demands of a hard drive, which is why my HD has its' own power supply.
Any thoughts on this matter will be greatly appreciated.
Fred I suggest a forum that caters to vintage computers where you can find people that are familiar with the Tandy 1000 EX: http://www.vintage-computer.com/vcforum/activity.phpThe reboots your getting could be a weak power supply. Weak power supply can make a HDD go out to lunch. At the end of a format it should just complete and not reboot.
6899.

Solve : Help with EpsonSX600W printer?

Answer»

I must have had an eye blink of less than total attention to my *#!%*# unreliable Epson SX600W printer with its ridiculously sensitive paper feed, and it scrunched up a paper which after two or three hours manual contortion somehow in its ridiculously inaccessible insides I was luckily able to remove.

It is now printing a few lines perfectly well then a few lines are missed, then a few more centimetres well, then a few blank or a trace of a faint line etc.

I have gone through the cleaning nozzles etc. routines that I found on the ptrinter (first time I ever did). Cartridges are new and I have never used any but Epson's.

I have spent hours on this, and trying to find anything in manuals.

Does anyone know anything a normal (i.e. not technically adept) person can do about it?

If I have to take it in for the nth time to the Epson agency where I am I think I will ditch it and buy a new printer, it will certainly be faster than the weeks they will take to repair it (even a trivial thing GOES in a queue). But a bit of a waste, as the PRINTED lines suggest there is only something rather trivial wrong and could print as well as it ever does, on the occasions when it prints at all.ANWERED OWN QUESTION!   

In case anyone else ever has this problem and chances here:

I could not find anything on any site

On Epson's own site it was damned difficult to even find the model - it did not appear in their enormous lists. It looks like it is a model that was sold only in Europe, or in the AMERICAS it has a different name or number. Anyway I finally traced it in an Italian Epson site.

I won't go into that. 

At length I was told the answer by a guy in the shop where I buy the Epson cartridges.

I had been cleaning it as described, and as that did not work I cleaned it again and again, several TIMES and it never worked. The guy told me don't do that, it actually clogs it up. Just do it once and leave it overnight. So I did that then cleaned it once, and now after three days it is working!

For now, for today. Maybe everybody but me already knew this.  Still, printers really are the weakest link for COMPUTER using.

Over the years I have went through many printers.
I know your pain.
Presently I have on of the HP all-in-ones. It has its one set of issues But the price was right..

6900.

Solve : Thinking about new Desktop?

Answer»

My old rig is still working great but her days are numbered. Started looking at replacement options and was surprised to see the all-in-one's which do not have optical disk drives. Is that because optical disks are considered obsolete? I guess you would need an external USB device for optical disks? For my purposes I will probably get another tower as my monitor is a nice Asus only about one year old and I can not see paying almost 2 grand for an all-in-one. However, the all-in-ones are very sleek looking which is especially appealing to my wife. Optical drives are certainly dying out, I honestly can't think of the last time I actually NEEDED one.  The thing with optical drives is that they are physically large so take up SPACE inside the machine, by removing them it allows the machine to be made smaller or to fit more useful components in the space that it saves.  If you do still need one then yeah, just get a USB drive, they are fairly cheap.

All-in-ones are very nice and compact but they aren't really as upgradable, think of them like a laptop in that respect, you can upgrade the RAM, storage and sometimes the CPU but not really much beyond that.  Of course it is up to you if this matters to you.As Camerongray said Optical Drives are starting to be phased out as something found on all computers. It's very much similar to how Floppy Drives used to be included on all PCs, but then people realized that they were seldom used and manufacturers decided they could trim costs by not including them.

If you have Discs you need to use, There are as you noted USB Devices available for that. My new Thinkpad T550 doesn't have an Optical Drive, for example, but I was able to install a few programs from DVD discs using a USB DVD Drive. The "preferred" approach is to use a USB Flash Drive; Windows and most other Operating Systems can now be installed via a Flash Drive.

With an All-in-one you are paying for all the added bits and bobs such as the screen and so forth. I think I agree with your sentiment that a new tower would make more sense, since you've got all the other bits and bobs. It would also end up quite a bit cheaper. You can get a reasonably CAPABLE system for around 500 dollars or so.

Another consideration is that your current system may just need a "REFRESH", (depending on it's age, of course). The most common reason a system starts to "die" or become unreliable is typically when the Hard Disk starts to fail, or of course from malware or other nasties or just accumulated cruft from years of use, and installing/uninstalling programs, and so forth.

Oftentimes a new Hard Drive with a fresh OS install can seem to give a system a second life. Depending on the age of the system a bit of extra MEMORY can help as well. And that can often be a lot cheaper than a new computer, so it may be worth investigating as an option.

Not that I don't like the new computer smell myself Thanks. Yes, I just did a refresh last year...new HD, new graphics card, triple RAM (1->3 GB) and new disk drive along with a new monitor, wireless mouse and a fresh Win 7 install. I am really happy with how well it is running but it is getting close to 7-8 years old.IMHO, anybody who has a limited budget should think about a partial upgrade and not a full replacement of a working desktop.

Now and in the future ones must get Apps from an on-line App store. But if you are content with what you have, thee is little reason to change.
The notable exceptions are new things that just were not available before.  I found an App that I must have and it only works with Windows 8 on a Desktop. So I wail have to someday pay for Windows 8, which comes with almost all new desktops.