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Hy ! I have a laptop with windows 8.
I have a laptop for about two months . And in the last three days I have some problems with it. I kept giving errors : Hard Errors and like that ...
Do not go any Windows app + I open internet explorer or else go orce very hard and I give that application is not RESPONDING . I need help ... I do not know what to them . The laptop is working fine 2.16 GHz , 8GB RAM and 1TB memory . PLEASE help !Possible Solutions:

1.) Use a restore point to go back to a time when it worked fine.
2.) Perform a factory system recovery which deletes all DATA and reinstalls clean just as the day you first gt the computer.
3.) If the computer is covered by a warranty, use the warranty to get a replacement.What DaveLembke says is true. This is not a contradiction, but a point of view.
IMO, Aay Laptop o tablet that does not perform well after only two months must be reported to the vendor or the device maker.
As for Windows 8.1, it is very forgiving and it will catch minor errors or abnormalities. The USER shooed not have to do any thing at all, unless something HORRIBLE happened. Like being hit by a tornado or a mudslide.

Call the vendor right now! 

Ok, I simply can't tell if this issue is for my CPU/RAM/MOBO or my Graphics Card. Anyways, everything has been slowly GETTING worse. Images and webpages load slower than before, it's a visual thing. But It could very well be either the graphics card or some other hardware. I can't tell if it's a proccessing power issue or a drawing of graphics. Anyways, it's getting worse so that in games like KF2 my game will seize up for a split moment when my camera will change distances, like zooming in on my weapon sights. Also the graphics seem to be kind of jittery when moving the camera around.

Everything seems to be worst when it's not been loaded previously. Any kind of new images or windows on my desktop are loading a little slower, but once it's there they interact just fine.

Perhaps because of all the image reference I should assume it's graphics card, but how should I really know? I need some help with suggestions on software that might help me diagnose my PC for any major hardware failure.

I've done a full reinstall of my Win 7 64 bit Ultimate edition. All fresh drivers and software, the issue has only got worse than before the reformatting, which I did to fix the problem.

I wasn't actually having any graphical issues in game before the reformat, but instead mostly when I was loading websites, especially those with a lot of images like online tv show listings or google image results, etc.

Thumbnails of stuff seem to load slower, I see the stages of the image, more stages than I should witness. Including some feeling I get of grayed bordering while transitioning.

Also, pages seem to take longer to load. As in I will see the internet page loading icon in the tab of chrome just circle longer than it should. That seems less a graphics problem and more of a processing problem. It's like instead of my 120mbps down cable, I have DSL or something.

Copy and pasting this here article into google docs as a safety save is also taking longer for the paste action to complete than it should. Again, I can't tell if that's because it's taking longer for the graphics card to write the pasted information or if the process is delayed because of the CPU.

I ordered a new EVGA 980 Superclocked ACX 2.0 from Amazon already, because I don't have the $900 I'd need to get a 5930k i7, 16 gb ddr4, X99 mobo.

Oh yeah, almost forgot to mention, I'm getting visible screen tearing on my desktop. Even just now moving the scroll bar from left to right and right to left on my Win 7 Volume Mixer, you can visibly see screen tearing in the volume indications area. I'm not getting screen tearing noticeable in video games, just on desktop. Most noticeable when I move a window back and forth between my monitors really fast. As a matter of fact, the other day I was entertaining myself seeing how many segment blocks I can make with a window while sliding it back and forth on my monitors.

Here is my current system specs.

Power Supply: CORSAIR HX Series HX750 750W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI CrossFire 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply New 4th Gen CPU Certified Haswell Ready - http://goo.gl/EGwYdX

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge Quad-Core 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000 - http://goo.gl/984Qic

CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120 mm PWM Fan - http://goo.gl/ibcUIJ

Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard - http://goo.gl/3sD38C

RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory - http://goo.gl/CwtSsb

Monitors: 2 x Acer H6 Series H226HQLbid Black 21.5" 5ms (GTG) HDMI Widescreen LED Backlight LED Backlit LCD Monitor, IPS Panel - http://goo.gl/9bRZeO

SSD: SAMSUNG 840 EVO MZ-7TE500BW 2.5" 500GB SATA III TLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) - http://goo.gl/td163K

GPU: EVGA SuperClocked 02G-P4-2765-KR G-SYNC Support GeForce GTX 760 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 SLI Support w/ EVGA ACX Cooler Video Card - http://goo.gl/cIu2Rb

Internet: 48 Mbps down, 11.62 Mbps up

Mouse: Razer Naga 2014 MMO Gaming Mouse - http://goo.gl/RXc9mv

Mousepad: Razer Goliathus 2014 Medium CONTROL Soft Gaming Mouse Mat - http://goo.gl/Siv6jt

Keyboard: Microsoft SIDEWINDER X4 Keyboard - http://goo.gl/UkuEs3

Headset: Sennheiser 363d

COMPUTER Case: Rosewill THOR V2 Gaming ATX Full Tower Computer Case, support up to E-ATX / XL-ATX, come with Four Fans - 1 x Front Red LED 230mm Fan, 1 x Top 230mm Fan, 1 x Side 230mm Fan, 1 x Rear 140mm Fan - http://goo.gl/OxqEMe

OS: Windows 7 Ultimate 64 Bit - SP1Ok, I have tested my hardware with two monitoring programs. I also tried to install the VGA drivers for the onboard graphics of my mobo, then swapped my monitors to that. I did not remove the graphics card when testing the onboard graphics. I don't know that I need to remove the Nvidia card, let me know if I must do that to get a true test. Anyhow, the results didn't change. I was still having problems.

Here are the results of the hardware monitoring. While monitoring, I was running a youtube video at 720p, a video clip from samples on VLC, 4 other tabs open, a couple of windows explorers open, viewing steam's store on steam, running both monitoring programs, teamspeak 3, while also playing Killing Floor 2.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1HBR67s8cqAHKOZdlFg_ZJq_ArvenJC0N1EPznhgYzKM/edit?usp=sharing

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1RWfjTBQZRwN6TY6UZhONI-sX2jlbJHbAIIwOtOQizAU/edit?usp=sharingThat asrock motherboard has been known to have issues. If its still covered by warranty you might want to get a replacement board. Even newegg feedback shows 389 out of 1202 for 3 (eggs)stars or less with 222 ( 18% ) of them being 1 egg (star) instability of doa issues.

If memtest86 doesnt show any problems and you have tried different video card setup, then I'd pull the CPU, RAM, and Video card from the board and request a warranty replacement if thats available to you.Thanks for the response. I'll look into getting a replaced motherboard, especially since right now I can't AFFORD to replace the parts needed to change mobos. I have also yet to run MemTest86+ because it suggests I wait until I go to sleep since it will take so long. I'll certainly try to get that going tonight, I don't have anything to burn it onto so I hope it works on flash drive.

Do you know if all ASRock sucks or just this one version? I remember the Geforce 8800 GTX had major issues, I had to get mine replaced 3x before they just gave me a GTS 250. Doesn't mean that I shy away from Geforce products though, as they don't always have issues like that.I personally dont buy ASRock brand boards. I go with Gigabyte, ASUS, and Biostar. In that order from better end low cost to budget builds.


I avoid ECS, MSI, FoxConn, ASRock products.


ASRock generally has a price tag that is less than that of other brands as they cut corners with quality at times with lower cost parts to sell to those who look at price tags vs brands when purchasing motherboards.

I have seen some people happy with their ASRock builds while many others have odd issues that usually lead back to a motherboard issue vs memory or cpu etc.

Biostar I have bought for years and never had a problem with budget builds of their products, however they also offer a lower price tag because they usually use cheaper components such as lesser efficient voltage regulators that can heat up and overheat if CPU over clocked or max supported for motherboard etc.Well, I figured out it's 100% not my video card. I uninstalled any and all things related to NVIDIA, especially the drivers, and then removed my graphics card, plugged the monitors into my onboard video, then rebooted. I installed my onboard graphics driver and things were still loading on web pages like they had been previously. I couldn't test in Killing Floor 2 because I guess the Intel HD drivers don't support it. Anyways, I canceled my order for the EVGA 980 SC ACX 2.0 from Amazon and instead placed orders for new CPU/Mobo/RAM.

I went with ASUS mobo, I didn't think to look at Gigabyte due to all the looking around I did confirming ASUS is solid.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VUK55M2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CPU i7-5820k: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MMLXIKY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And of course RAM: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PLER544/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gotta have that CPU Cooler/Thermal Paste: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005O65JXI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TOY9HN4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've been working on this all day now, since like 5 AM EST and it's now almost 9:30 PM EST. I have everything ordered and I've checked the parts constantly and I'm certain everything is perfect with my new build. Now I just gotta save up another $500 for a 980. I also wanna pick up a 4tb HDD for storage.

I agree about the motherboard brands. I was looking into an MSI over ASRock, but then ran into people like yourself complaining how cheap and terrible their quality control is. I'm glad OVERALL I went with ASUS. It's one of the main brands that Linus has videos on.Nice CPU/Motherboard/RAM combination.

As for myself I would have gone cheaper route, but thats just me. I'm cheap and try to reuse what I can to stretch the life of hardware etc. I would have just gotten a different motherboard that is SOCKET 1155 of better quality and moved the CPU and RAM over to it and saved on not having to buy a new CPU and RAM, but you should be more than happy with the performance of that build with the 3 new components especially with that CPU combination and fast DDR4   

I'd list the RAM and CPU for sale on ebay or amazon to get some money back for them if your not going to use them. It might offset some of the price tag for the new hardware and help out with the cost of the 980 that you want. You could also sell the ASRock motherboard AS-IS not guaranteed to work and someone who has determination to fix it might buy it for $20. I have seen all sorts of parts sell that I thought would never sell when watching ebay auctions. One such auction was for a AMD FX-8350 4Ghz CPU with mangled and missing pins that sold for like $20. Someone must have been determined to solder on new pins etc for a cheap upgrade.

Notice how it says it only works with AMD CPUs.  It's crappy "high density" memory, don't touch it with a bargepole

Hey guys, I've just finished putting together my first water cooling loop and it was relatively smooth. I'll attach a pic of the finished product.  However there were a few questions I would like to ask and share some of thoughts on the process. The entire installation process took me around 8 hours of work and all the PARTS I got were from a company called EKWB and I'm pretty impressed the quality of the products.

first off, radiator are the worst to install. I probably spent twice as long installing the radiator then installing the rest of loop. it turns out that both the radiator and fans wouldn't fit inside the case so i had to put the fans on the outside. which brings me to first question, are my fans set up in good way? I currently have fans on the front and back pushing air in and then 3 fans on top pulling air out.

My 2nd question is how will I know that my working? in my bios menu its "claims" that my temperature is idling around 25 degrees C,  I haven't tested the temp under load because 1. I don't know how and 2. I'm still bleeding the loop.

finally I would very much like to know a good method for draining the loop. I do intend to add a GPU cooler to the loop and ive read that its good to replace the coolant every 6 months. while building the computer I had hooked up the pump wrong and had to drain just a small portion of the loop and it was super scary.

Overall it was a very enjoyable experience i'm already researching my next project  . I look forward to hearing your guys' thoughts and opinions. 

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Looks like it went pretty well for your first time, congrats on getting it all working!
It's not usually necessary to replace your fluid every 6 months, more like every 12-18 months, however if you're using coloured fluid it may be wise to drain after 6 months just to check that nothing is sludging up as some fluids are known to deposit particles in the radiator and blocks, sometimes the plasticizer used to make the tubing flexible can also break down and gunk up as well.  That's not meant to worry you - just to say that I THINK draining after the first 6 months is not necessarily a bad idea so you can check things over, but that after that there's no real need to drain that often.
It's a shame your radiator and fans don't fit inside the case, but your setup sounds fine to me.  Ideally you'd want the fans blowing air into the case through the radiator so they get the coolest air, but then you'd end up with a front exhaust fan which is a bit odd so what you've done soundas absolutely fine.  Do just keep an eye on the dust build-up on the fans and in the fins of the radiator, you'll probably want to give the radiator a good clean every 6 months or so by removing the fans.
Your temperatures should be pretty great with a triple radiator cooling just your CPU, even adding a GPU you should still see good temperatures.  Ignore you idle temperature (unless it's crazy high of course) and I would get it under load to see what happens.  If you're not sure what's best to use for load testing, it depends what CPU you have as my usual go-to, Prime95, is not ideal for Haswell based CPUs.  Asus Realbench is a good alternative - http://rog.asus.com/376212014/overclocking/realbench-v2-4-launched-with-x99-support/
Finally as for draining the loop, that depends how it's laid out, could you post a few pictures of the interior of your case to show it more clearly?  Generally you want to drain from the lowest point in the loop if you haven't installed a drain port (I never did so don't think it's necessary) but depending on your layout this may not be ideal.

Hope this helps, and I'd be interested to see your FULL list of specs including all your WC gear My Computer Specs:
Mobo: Asus Sabertooth z87
CPU: Intel i7-4771
GPU: GeForce GTX 780 Ti
SSD: Intel 730 series 250GB
RAM: 32GB Corsair DDR4 Dominator Platinum Series
PSU: Corsair 850 HXi

Watercooling Specs:
CPU: EK-Supremacy EVO
Reservoir: EK-RES X3 150
Pump: EK-XTOP D5 PWM
Radiator: EK-CoolStream PE 360
Radiator Fans: 3x EK-Furious Vardar FF5-120
Coolant: EK-Ekoolant Pastel WHITE (Super diluted however, because for some reason I thought 1 gal = 1 liter haha)

I seem to be having trouble finding a water block for my graphics card which is a EVGA Classified GTX 780 ti.

I think I'm going to add a drain valve to one of the unused holes on my reservoir. A more detailed picture of the loop is linked, the pump is kinda hard to see but it on the floor next to the PSU. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RpBg8fXiCNaOqb5bZtMfcYQBTap6eIxztA/view?usp=sharingThat's a nice tidy loop, excellent job especially for your first time, I'm impressed.
How are you finding the Intel SSD?  Don't see many people buying Intel these days which is a shame, I avoided recommending their Sandforce-based drives like the 520 but their X25 drives were great at the time, still rocking a few in various builds, and the 730 series interested me.
The EK Pastel coolant does have biocide and it's generally well thought of, looks great as well even if it is quite diluted I don't think you can tell.
Looks like FrozenCPU carry EK blocks for your GPU - Nickel/Acetal and Nickel.  Sometimes it's a struggle to find waterblocks for non-reference cards but with some of the more popular aftermarket designs like the Classified and Matrix, sometimes they are catered for.
Do you have those Vardar fans on a controller at all, or running full speed?  How do you find the noise?The Intel was my SSD that I've OWNED, I actually bought it without doing any research on other SSD. Intel was just a reputable company so I bought it. That being said Im very happy with it, it works. If it does have any flaws I wouldn't know because I don't really know what flaws to look for in a SSD.

I don't know if I have the fan set up correctly or maybe the fact that they are outside the case but it sounds like jet engine is exploding in my room. I correctly have the fans hooked up to the CPU, CPU_ASST and CHA_3 fan slots? I may end  looking for a new set, my roommates are already complaining.

I will definitly check out those GPU waterblocks, also you mentioned something called a reference card? I'm assuming its kind of like the original DESIGN? Do you think they are better cards to get over the aftermarket designs? Quote from: Calum on July 05, 2015, 04:54:50 AM

Looks like FrozenCPU carry EK blocks for your GPU - Nickel/Acetal and Nickel.

The Intel was my SSD that I've owned, I actually bought it without doing any research on other SSD. Intel was just a reputable company so I bought it. That being said Im very happy with it, it works. If it does have any flaws I wouldn't know because I don't really know what flaws to look for in a SSD.

I don't know if I have the fan set up correctly or maybe the fact that they are outside the case but it sounds like jet engine is exploding in my room. I correctly have the fans hooked up to the CPU, CPU_ASST and CHA_3 fan slots? I may end  looking for a new set, my roommates are already complaining.

Also you mentioned something called a reference card? I'm assuming its kind of like the original design? Do you think they are better cards to get over the aftermarket designs?

Don't think I'd be ordering from FrozenCPU any time soon - https://www.facebook.com/frozencpucom, http://www.overclock.net/t/1540656/official-frozencpu-shuts-its-doors.  The general consensus is that the owner literally went crazy and trashed the place - The website is still accepting orders but the internet is full of people complaining that they have placed orders but nothing has arrived and they have been unable to contact them.  Shame since they carried so much stuff!

First of all, this is quite a long post. If you still bother reading it – you’re awesome, thank you! 

Ok, so here’s the situation: 6 months ago I knocked my Samsung 9 series (NP900X4D) on the floor, whilst at the same time spilling a drink on it (I think it was something sticky). Good job, right?

I turned it off immediately letting it dry. At this point none of the keys worked. The next day, several of the keys worked again (indicating that the fall didn’t do any damage, it looked like only the moist/fluid damaged the keyboard), and the computer itself works fine. Mousepad works fine too. The keyboard however, would press different keys constantly, so I ended up DISABLING the keyboard, and using an external one for about 6 months. No problems.

Now, I’d like to fix it, so I bought a new keyboard on ebay and replaced it. I also reset my computer back to it’s factory setting (just in case the drivers were messed up/malware or whatever). The new keyboard fixed a lot, every key works perfectly – EXCEPT for space. It works, but it keeps typing. As in all the time. I found out that if I press the ”fn” key, it stops typing, but only until I press space again. Then it GOES crazy.

My guess is that the original keyboard was INDEED water damaged, but I’m guessing  the motherboard or at least the keyboard connecters got moistdamaged too? I’m thinking of pouring isopropyl alcohol on the motherboard, and the keyboard connectors. Also maybe use a hairdryer on the ends of the keyboard connectors? What do you think? I’m a complete noob, but this must be an electrical problem in the connectors, right? Cleaning it might work? And could the isopropyl alcohol do any damage? I’d hate to replace a perfectly fine computer just because of the spacebar..

Any help is really appreciated! If it's only the space bar it could very well be the case that the new keyboard is faulty too, I'd look into getting a replacement from the seller.  If it was a problem with the connector on the motherboard then it is very LIKELY that more keys would have problems as several keys usually share each connector on the board.

What ever you do, don't pour alcohol on the motherboard and then use a hairdryer.  Put the alcohol on a q-tip and rub the connectors with that, then let it naturally evaporate.Alcohol + heat = melted components. Quote from: camerongray on July 16, 2015, 08:10:31 AM

If it's only the space bar it could very well be the case that the new keyboard is faulty too, I'd look into getting a replacement from the seller.  If it was a problem with the connector on the motherboard then it is very likely that more keys would have problems as several keys usually share each connector on the board.

What ever you do, don't pour alcohol on the motherboard and then use a hairdryer.  Put the alcohol on a q-tip and rub the connectors with that, then let it naturally evaporate.

Can someone check my current build, any advice would be great!

• PC for gaming, graphic and video editing works

A high quality 550w unit is way more than enough for that system.  Even at high load I'd imagine it to sit under 300w.

550Watts for the high end video card and that CPU combination looks tight. I'd go with a 650 watt myself instead of running the 550 watt at or very close to its max output.

is the one I have in the cart a high quality one or do you have a different recommendation?

hey guys,

I'm having a serious problem.. I just built a new pc and after windows loads, the computer will work fine for about 10 minutes. But every time I try to install a driver or just randomly, the computer will freeze and a high pitched hum noise will come from the computer itself. I'm almost positive its coming from the mobo and since I have a gigabyte motherboard it would make sense as I have heard gigabyte motherboardss have had these problems. I have an RMA case open with newegg but I just want to make sure my speculation is correct. Thanks!

Specs:

AMD FX-6350 3.9GHz 6-Core Processor

Gigabyte GA-970A-DS3P ATX AM3+ Motherboard

G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory

Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive

Zotac GeForce GTX 960 4GB AMP! Edition Video Card

Thermaltake SMART 650W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply

Also, I had to send in my serial number sticker on my motherboard box for a mail-in rebate, but I do have a copy made of the sticker.. would Newegg still accept my RMAYou ssure its not the PSU humming / ?

Newegg should still do the RMA as they have RECORDS of your purchase...Positive its not the psu, sound is coming right near the processor/ram area, ram is fine though ran MEMTEST with no errors RMA the board then...Gonna rma the board and cpu just in case If it happens when the system freezes, it may be coming from the system speaker. Another possibility is bad capacitors as they can apparently cause odd sounds.

Another possibility is that your computer is humming simply because it forgot the words.Thinking it's a bad capacitor.. as I continued to try to fix the thing cause it was driving me insane, the sound started ton happen without the system freezing

Quote

Thinking it's a bad capacitor.. as I continued to try to fix the thing cause it was driving me insane, the sound started ton happen without the system freezing

Were all MBoard standoffs in place properly ? ?...could be harmonic resonance...

I have a motherboard, with the correct memory, and a CPU/cooler.  I also have a PSU, which SEEMS to work.

I put the bits together, connected a HD cable but left off the HD for the moment, and also connected a keyboard and mouse through a 2way electronic KVM switch (other PC turned off).

Turned on the PSU.  Nothing.  More in hope than expectation, pressed the (working) make-when-pressed button connected to the what I THOUGHT were the correct pins on the pin-array on the m/b : still nothing.

When I tested the psu using my psu tester, everything seemed to work; the fan started to spin in the psu.  When connected  to the m/b the psu fan did not spin, I think the m/b isn't firing because it is not receiving power, maybe other things too.

I did remember to connect the main power connector and the "P4" connector but that's all from the psu.

Why isn't it carrying out the POST ?  Why can't I CHECK the BIOS set up ?  That's all I want (until the next stage....).  What elementary thing have I overlooked ?

Dumb_Question
21.May.2015RAM...'with the correct memory'  = RAM

RAM in place.

If it were RAM that was the problem (which it might still be) I would expect psu to turn on, power to be received by the m/b, and beeps to heard (CPU fan, part of the cooler which I did not explicitly mention, to turn, possibly). 

I don't think it's RAM, but I'm hoping that it will be something as easy as that.  I connect the power switch between the pins described as 'power switch' but there is a another pair of pins on the same header which are CURRENTLY n/c described as 'reset switch'.

Dumb_Question
21.May.2015

 Then the reset and power wires are backwards...reverse them...
Also try with only 1 stik of RAM.Well, I finally got around to looking at this problem again (it doesn't feel like May since I did anything)

I can report that the PSU comes on, and I am now able to enter BIOS setup !

I apologise for wasting some persons' time with this issue as the solution was to use the correct jumper block (NOT the USB front panel one)

Now to connect a HD - O/S 

Dumb_Question
22.July.2015Wonderful...

Ok, so I'm not the most computer savy, but I can usually muddle my way through...but this one has me stumped. I'be been trying to hook up an external monitor to my Lenovo ThinkPad VIA the usb 3.0 port.....but I'm actually trying to make it using a foxconn c12782-001 internal ribbon AV 9 pin connector and a mix of other old usb and av ports and cables I've got laying around......(don't ask)..lol anyway, if anyone can shoot me any pinout info or advice I'd be grateful. ThxIf you think your GOING to make it work by just mixing a VGA plug cable with a USB cable, its NOT going to work and you will likely destroy your monitor or USB port.

You need to buy an adapter that can communicate via USB with a printed circuit board inside a device that then creates analog video signal for VGA. You will also need a driver to make this work and so you would be best to BUY A USB VGA ADAPTER which will come with software and warranty in cae something goes wrong, which shouldnt with an actual USB VGA adapter intended to be used as such.What you are trying to do is impossible, you will need to either CONNECT the monitor to a proper video connector on the laptop such as VGA, displayport, HDMI.etc or buy a commercial USB to VGA converter such as this: http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Graphics-Multiple-Displays-1920x1080/dp/B004D0QC0A/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1437654974&sr=8-5&keywords=usb+to+vga

Do not try and make your own cable, as Dave says - It will not work and you will likely end up breaking something.

Power supply is to small for my COMPUTER 300 watt rated it is a AGI HP-3507f5w wanted to know if any 750 watt atx power supply will work?What makes you think it is too small?  Are you trying to upgrade something?

No, it is crucial that you buy a quality unit from a brand such as Corsair, Seasonic, XFX.etc.  You should expect to pay at least $1 for every 10w that the unit is rated for.  Also, consider how much you actually do need, why 750w?  That is a lot for most systems.One of my video cards says I need 300 watt power supply, after a COUPLE weeks would not boot up until I PULLED the card?What is the full spec of the system including the video card, 750w is LIKELY way more than you will need?Gigabyte mother dual core 1.8ghz 2x2gb ram ddr2 DVD burner 2 cooling fans hd 2600 pro 512m ddr2pci-e dual Dvi-I/tvo &  PCI card that RUNS 4 Bnc camerasThen 750w is way more than you will need, you would be wasting your money.  Does it not work in its current state?  It is possible that your current PSU is faulty, not that it's not powerful enough.

A decent 400w unit such as this would be more than sufficient: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151076&cm_re=seasonic_oem-_-17-151-076-_-Product

I've been having issues with my external hard drive as of late. It freezes up whenever I attempt to transfer files from it so I ran a disk error check. I let it run and I came back home to find my computer in sleep mode. When I turned it back on it showed me it had completed the check but now my drive is a bit strange.
It shows in the computer TAB to have 0 bytes of space and I can't access it at all. I've attempted to format it and delete it's volume but it refuses to even try.
In the disk management tab it shows the appropriate size and space it should have but I'm still unable to do anything to it. It shows itself as a RAW system type which I haven't seen before.

Any assistance WOULD be appreciated.
I'd run crystaldisk info on it the ad-free version that is at this site. And see what it reports. The drive might be junk and you might want to exercise a WARRANTY replacement on it. Drives depending on brad can have anywhere from 1 year to 5 year replacement warranty on them. Also some drives that the company gets bought out by others inherit the warranty of the company inheriting the obsolete brand such as MAXTOR drives bought out by Seagate and a drive that under Maxtor's warranty was a paperweight and out of warranty, when Seagate bought out Maxtor I heard that they were offering 5 year warranty on Maxtor drives in which my 500GB Maxtor that failed was then covered by seagate and for the cost of shipping around $8, I got a replacement 500GB SATA drive from seagate in about 2 weeks under their warranty.

http://crystalmark.info/download/index-e.htmlI have had this problem; the disk disappeared from the USB system but reappeared again with RAW format.  Now I reckon the problem might have been a faulty connection, either a cable, or a connector within the external drive or your PC.  Try replacing the cables with known good ones and then using a completely different USB port on your PC, eg back/front.
Have you disconnected and reconnected your external drive ?  This can bring it back although it will probably become electrically disconnected again.
Have you tred running your computer in 'Always On' mode ? or 'Hard disks off - never'
Can you try it on another computer ?

Dumb_Question
22.July.2015

I have an hp envy TOUCH smart laptop. It won't turn on. I went through all the hard reset protocols and contacted support. Diagnosis is its more than likely mother board. I did a search on other alternatives befor taking it in for an expensive repair. A friend told me that I could try removing the clock battery and plugging it back in and then I also found a video that talked about I believe replacing the bios battery. Not sure if bios battery was the term that was USED. Basically the guy unplugged the power source that went directly to the mother board and then he remove like a circular piece that I think was just stuck to another board and then when he REPLACED it he just pressed the circular end back in place. Then he plugged the other end in and then reconnected the power wire back to the mother board. If any of this sounds familiar as a viable solution to try before taking it yo repair or if anyone can fill in any blanks or has other suggestions I would be most appreciative. I've also heard the term bios reflashing but not quite sure what that means. ThanksAnything happen to it before this state in which it will not turn on.... dropped, liquid spilled in it, bad storm with lightning, it was acting up for a while and finally wont WORK at all etc?Bad thunderstorm with lightning. Computer was plugged in but I believe it was off. Battery was not in it. Had big thunder BOOM, tv turned off everything came back on computer was plugged into a power strip with a "surge protector" You can try leaving the battery out of the laptop for a day and then reintroduce it and see if that works.

But first, Does any power indicator lights light when its plugged in to charge? Have to tried this laptop powered off a different outlet, known good outlet?

If you have a good name brand surge protection power strip the good news is that they might cover the replacement of a computer that is damaged. What brand is power strip that has the surge protection.

Lastly some home insurance covers replacement of damaged electronics from lightning etc so if you had to get a new computer you might be able to file a claim and get a replacement that way.

Intermittently, I receive the blue screen of death (BSOD) with the following message:
PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
STOP: 0X00000050 (0XF000B084, 0X00000000, 0XF7381355, 0X00000000)
SRESCAN.SYS - ADDRESS F7381355 BASE AT F737B000, DATESTAMP 459E1537

I have a 2003 Dell Dimension 4550, so I used their diagnostics at boot-up and get the following (sometimes it passes the diagnostics without a message):

ERRORCODE 0F00:133D
MSG:IDE DEVICE FAILED: INCOMPATIBLE CD FOR TESTING

or

IDE DISK-SEEK TEST
ERROR CODE 0F00:0442
MSG: BLOCK 268435455: ADDRESS NOT FOUND

I ran the IDE Drive Diagnostics on the Boot Device Menu and it passes.

I ran the Western Digital hard drive diagnostics TOOL on my c:drive (it's a Western Digital HDD) and it passes.

I'm getting intermittent failures from something.  Is my hard drive about to fail?
I think your hard drive is about to go but,
download and run stability test 6.0 it's free.

Q: How do I KNOW if my computer is stable?
A: If it crashes while testing it is not.

Q: What test method I should use?
A: Use 'Normal Testing'.

If it does not crash recommended 12
hour running of program.


http://www.majorgeeks.com/download215.htmlJust FYI.  I downloaded the program and ran it over 12 hours and it didn't crash.  I guess I'll have to wait and see what happens.That also might possibly be pointing to memory errors...DLoad and run MemTest as well.I downloaded and ran MemTest for 40-45 minutes (208% coverage) and it didn't crash it either.Have you recently re-installed your OS on this machine ? ?
List any new hardware installed in the last few months...even if you have since uninstalled it.No, I haven't REINSTALLED my OS or installed/removed any hardware recently.http://support.microsoft.com/search/default.aspx?query=page+fault&x=0&y=0&catalog=LCID%3D1033&spid=&qryWt=&mode=r&cus=FalseThanks for the link, but I couldn't find anything that applied there.  But I did a search and did find something that may help.  Good info for anyone that uses ZoneAlarm Free Firewall v7.0.302.000.

http://forum.zonelabs.org/zonelabs/board/message?board.id=inst&message.id=61582
http://forum.zonelabs.org/zonelabs/board/message?board.id=inst&message.id=61734
http://forum.zonelabs.org/zonelabs/board/message?board.id=win_za_msgs&message.id=15310&query.id=112661#M15310
http://forum.zonelabs.org/zonelabs/board/message?board.id=inst&message.id=61699
http://www.castlecops.com/p891366-ATTENTION_Blue_screen_stop_error_message_srescan_sys.html
Diagnose your memory.

Hello All!

    I have a problem with my pc and printer not communicating. Just beofre this I had to set resources on the port setting tab under the Device Manager area. I think that is the biggest problem but not quite sure. "Why did you have to set the resources for the port?" you MAY ask becvause it had a problem were the port could not detect resource's.Kenter..... How about some info on your system?

Was the printer working OK before ?
Please help us ASSIST you .

dl65  
Yes printer was workin before and here is some basic info:

Sys. Microsoft Windows XP
       Home Edition
       Version 2002
       Service Pack 2
AMD Athlon 64 processor 3000+
2.0 GHZ, 512MB of RAM

  I have tried everything I have gone through the windows troubleshooter at least five times trying to get it to help me. I have tried printing from a note pad and word, I even tried to print from Command Prompt. Please excuse my poor spelling. Kenter.... So if I read you correctly, the printer was working fine one minute and then the next time you went to use it ..... it wasn't ...... is that pretty much what happened ?
How old is the printer?
What make and model is it ?
How does it connect ? USB, serial , etc.?
Have you tried completely uninstalling it and then reinstall it exactly as detailed in the installation instructions ?


dl65  
1.Kenter.... So if I read you correctly, the printer was working fine one minute and then the next time you went to use it ..... it wasn't ...... is that pretty much what happened ?
2.How old is the printer?
3.What make and model is it ?
4.How does it connect ? USB, serial , etc.?
5.Have you tried completely uninstalling it and then reinstall it exactly as detailed in the installation instructions ?
 
 
dl65  


1. Yes that is the jist of it
2. Not sure but it is still supported
3. HP DeskJet 895cxi
4. Serial
5. Yes I have tried unistalling it and reinstalling it as to per the instrutions

  I got to print SOMETHING and it says printing... But after a few MINUETS it says out of paper and during this whole process the printer isnt doing a thing. I now deleted the printer once again and the COMPUTER wont detect it when I go to add new hardware. Kenter.... Ok ...... Thats a decent printer...... I used to have one.
So ...it's connected to the LPT1 port .
Have you looked in the control panel /system/Hardware tab...... device manager ...and scrolled down to ports, expanded that entry and looked at the LPT1 entry ....... what is it telling you ? Does it show any conflicts ? What is the port setting ?
Under the general tab , have you tried the trouble shooting button ?

dl65  It says there are no conflicts and  under the Port Settings tab it saysFilter Resource Method/ then it has 3 check boxes under it and they say "Try to use an interupt" and then "Never use an interupt" is checked, then says "Use any interupt assigned to the port" I have troubleshooted it.Kenter , When you did the printer reinstall, did you reinstall the software as well.
Did windows recognize that new hardware was installed and then ask you for a driver location ?

dl65     No it didn't but from what I understand that someone was playing with it and it was not printing fast. So they wiggled the cable back and forth and the port has come unsaudered and now the PC wont even reconise the Port so now it is going to the repair bay. Please don't mind the spelling.Kenter......... Well that explains things.....
Quote

I understand that someone was playing with it and it was not printing fast. So they wiggled the cable back and forth and the port has come unsaudered and now the PC wont even reconise the Port so now it is going to the repair bay.

I am looking for advice on which direction I should go for my next PC build, my last update was over 5 years ago and its well past OUTDATED and I am looking to get this redone.

I have never built a pc before but I am wanting to try my hand in building my first one so I can DICTATE what goes in it and be assured that I am getting the very best bang for my budget..

Here is a bit of info about what I currently have and what I am looking at upgrading to.

Current PC.

Motherboard = Asus p8z86-v pro
CPU = Intel Core i5 2500 3.30 Ghz
GPU= Nvidia GTX 560ti
Ram= Corsair Vengence DDR3
HD = 1gb old hd
Tower = Corsair Carbide 500r

Now I am looking to completely redo this from the ground up as this one is completely out of date and will be going to my little kids as their first pc.

The budget I am looking at is around $5,500 for the system and around $2,000 for the monitor "if I could save some money for sure that would be nice but this is what I have allocated for this build."

I have been looking into different directions as some people say I should go with the z97 series MOTHER boards and grab the devils canyon CPU while other reviews are saying that the x99 series is the way to go.

I also hear that there is a new processor coming out really soon "Skylake" and also new z170 chipset motherboards..

Before reading about this new processor and motherboards that are getting ready to be released here is what I have been looking at.

CPU = Intel Core i7-5930K Haswell-E 6-Core 3.5GHz LGA 2011-v3 140W

Motherboard = Asus x99 Rampage V Extreme

GPU = MSI GTX 980TI GAMING 6G GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB 384-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support ATX Video Card  x 2 of these to run in SLI

Watercooling = Corsair Hydro Series H110i GT High Performance Water/Liquid CPU Cooler. 280mm

Hard Drive = WD BLACK SERIES WD1003FZEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive

SSD = SAMSUNG 850 EVO MZ-75E500B/AM 2.5" 500GB SATA III 3-D Vertical Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)

Power Supply = EVGA 220-P2-1000-XR 80 PLUS Platinum 1000 W 10 yr Warranty ECO Mode Fully Modular NVIDIA SLI Ready and Crossfire Support

Tower = Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Series PH-ES614L_BK Black Aluminum / Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case

Memory = G.SKILL Ripjaws 4 series 32GB (4 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2666 (PC4-21300) Desktop Memory

Tower = Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Series PH-ES614L_BK Black Aluminum / Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case

Which leads me to my next set of questions..

Would this be solid specs for gaming, editing, working with photoshop ect?

Also with the new technology being released would it be worth it to scratch this idea and wait for the new series of Skylake and z170 boards to come out?

If this was your budget and build and it was for hardcore gaming mostly, which direction would you go and why?

Also with monitors I am looking at the 40in 4k monitor, I am debating on rather not going with just 1 40 inch 4k and saving some money or going with 3 x 1440p  32in monitors.. which way would you go?

Sorry for this newb thread as I know I am very new to pc building "I usually just go to the pc store and tell them to build me the current system, but this time I want to do it myself if I can"

Thanks again and any advice is much appreciated!Here is another motherboard for the x99 series that I was looking at as well, I was not sure which I should steer towards if I chose the x99 series..

MSI X99S Gaming 9 ACK LGA 2011-v3 Intel X99 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Extended ATX Intel Motherboard Quote

Sorry for this newb thread as I know I am very new to pc building "I usually just go to the pc store and tell them to build me the current system, but this time I want to do it myself if I can"

Would this be solid specs for gaming, editing, working with photoshop ect?

Digital Storm Coridium     $7779.00
The Digital Storm Coridium harnesses two of AMD's fastest graphics cards for record-setting gaming performance. But reaching new heights with this premium desktop requires paying top dollar.
...
Falcon Northwest Mach V (GTX 980)  $8,039
The Falcon Northwest Mach V (GTX 980) brings cutting-edge technology, solid build quality, and top-notch performance to the desktop gaming grid, thanks to the latest high-end components. Watch out competitors, the BAR has been raised...

The futur.e... After spending the past two weeks checking out games on Samsung's U28D590D 4K monitor, I'm still going to call 4K gaming the near future rather than the present. Yes, you can play games at 3840x2160 pixels right now. Yes, 4K monitors are becoming more affordable. But are they worth it? After spending a couple weeks using one, I can comfortably say: no, not yet. Even for a high-end graphics card (or two), 4K is too demanding ... If you're willing to play at 30 frames per second, though, 4K is a different story.

Hello,

My computer's been automatically restarting  0-6 times a day for the PAST 4 months, and the company who covers the tech support under my warranty, who had it at their SHOP for a month without getting a single restart, suggested I try a different power source. I have it downstairs in my house right now, just to test that theory, and it hasn't restarted yet, but I need it upstairs anyway, in the end.

My question is: is there a device I can purchase that makes sure enough power is supplied to the computer at all times? Such as some kind of power backup or something which connects to the wall outlet, then I connect just the power cable for the computer into the device, and the device delivers constant power to the computer, through some kind of combination of outlet power and charged-up backup power? (if that makes sense)

THANKS,
Andrew andrewset....  To answer your question....... yes there is such a item ....it's called a UPS or Uninteruptable Power Supply. A GOOD ONE is very expensive......
I have a question for you ........ Have you ever metered the actual voltage being delivered to the recepticle your pc is plugged into upstairs........ The circuit you are on may have something on it which when it starts up draws a lot of current ..... resulting in a temporary voltage drop.... ( which causes your machine to see the low voltage and drop off ) ...... Check to see what else is on that circuit.

dl65  How old is the machine and what does it say on the Power Supply Unit ? ?What mainboard is installed...?

I have a Dell Insprion 8600 laptop running windows xp HOME. Not too long ago, I re-installed windows and all the drivers, because something was wrong with it (you had to select "start at last good configuration" at start up, meaning i could not install anyhting new, etc)

occasionally the screen will start to get very blurry, and then start blinking the screen shot over and over. I have to hold the on/off button down to get it to re-boot and stop.

any ideas on how to fix this? not sure if its a hardware prob or what?  :-?Have you tried a lower screen resolution?

Have you tried updating,or reinstalling the video
drivers?

.....and of course,What does it do with an external
monitor ?
I have not thought about hooking it up to an external monitor yet. Good idea! UM, I'm not quite sure how I'd go about that. I'm guessing if I just plug it in it will install itself using plug -n- play. I will try that...  

Also, I'm not too CLEAR on how the resloution works. I have played around with it a bit, changing it to different settings, but it seems to still do it. How do you know what resolution it should be set at?

I pretty much re-built this laptop- i re-installed windows and all the drivers so I dont knwo what it was originally set at. Can someone clear that up for me? What is the typical setting? How do you know if you have the right setting?  :-?

Another weird, kinda off topic, thing is that the windows media player will not play videos or dvds. it has a dvd burner in it, and before i re-did everything media player would play a dvd, but not anymore. i can play video files through my wimamp program.

i will try to update or re-install the drivers and see if that works. I think i tried updating the sound card drivers, but not the video. I will try that this weekend, and let you know how it went.

thanks for the help!  When connecting an external display it often will automatically detect it if it doesn't you may have to press a FN or function key on your keyboard in combination with a key with a monitor on it to switch from laptop to monitor display.

Your resolution is dependent on the video card and display you have. Your laptop should be capable of running at 1024 x 768 (or a close range to that). That's a typical resolution. However, for troubleshooting you may wan to DROP it down to 800 x 600.

Unfortunately based off your description of the issue I'd say it's likely your LCD (display) is going bad, possibly even the video/mother board.

For your DVD try playing the DVD using VLC. It a free media player and sure fire way to get almost any media file going with little or no hassle. It's found at:

http://www.videolan.org/vlc/

If it works then if you really wish to you can continue to trouble shoot the other media players.

:-? Hi I have Windows Xp Sp2 all the Cd drive works EXCEPT for when I try to burn a cd. If I use a CD with something already on it the drive recognises it and lets me burn but if it's a blank cd I cant open it and the Insert disk into drive box keeps reappearing- I've tried differnt types of blank cds to no avail

Please help its driving me nutty- im just computer literate so please be gentle
Thanks  Not savvy at all.....  Are you saying that the blank cd will not open? You can't open it because theres nothing on it ....... it's blank....  or are you saying that you cant open the cd drive to put the blank cd into it ? If thats the case, try going ......Start/My computer..... now look for your cd drive from the list ...... then right click on the cd drive you cant open and select eject..... it should open. If for some reason, it won't, look at the front of your drive..... there should be a very small hole, straighten out a paperclip and carefully slide it into the hole ...when you FEEL it stop, apply a little pressure and you will push the release and the DRAWER will start to open .....then just carefully pull it fully open .
Let us know how you make out.

dl65  The problem is that s/he can't burn CD's, I believe.

What burning software do you use?
Have you tried any others?
Were you ever able to burn CD's before?Thankyou dl65- I'm aware that a blank CD has nothing on it- CBMatt you are right- I cant burn to a blank CD- I've tried a number of different programs, read somewhere that Nero interacts with WMP so have removed the dll that was still there from nero like the help page I found with a similar problem said but still no luck. I used a different computer to burn 1 file to a number of CD's and these can now be burnt on mine but it MEANS I have to access other computers first for every disk i want to use. Music is still only at times but all pictures and other files are fine as long as I've set the disk up by something else being on it first. My children have assignments and presentations to HAND in and it is difficult for them to hand in a disk with some 'mothers' file on it first.
I have Windows media player, Divx, windows movie maker, have tried Nero and Burnn
ThanksHave you tried Easy CD Creator?  I always trust that burner.Where do I find that?? Do I just do a web search
I'll be very happy if i can just get this to work!!CDBurner XPro for me...

Hi, I have a problem with my old T300 Zebra PRINTER and do not find the MANUAL. Can someone help me ?
Thx
MarcDid you TRY looking under the desk?

I just got the vg248qe today and I set it up with dual link dvi into my graphics card and turned it on and set it to 144 hz. I have the latest gtx 970 driver installed. However I can not see the difference when I'm moving my mouse, and I can't tell if it's DISPLAYING when I'm playing games, and isn't it supposed to reduce MOTION blur? how do I fix this and how do I check?

(I'd like to mention I have a single link dvi connected to the second dvi input for my other monitor if that makes a difference)Do you have the (latest) graphics driver from nvidia installed or the one that WINDOWS ( microsoft ) decided to use as autodetected? Also is your DISPLAY detected as a generic display or have you installed the actual monitor driver software if your monitor has this?

Many newer displays are good at the autodetected config, however others do best with their drivers installed vs generic display type used.

If you use a FPS counter in a full-screen game that is not very demanding, and enable VSync and your monitor is actually set to 144hz then the FRAMERATE should max out at 144.

System info = Vista Home SP2, Processor= Intel E8600 3.33 GHz,  Ram= 4GB (2x Giel 2GB PC2-6400 DDR),  Graphics= NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GTX+,  Monitor= BlueH H224W,  Motherboard= ASUS P5K SE/EPU,  BIOS=AMI.

A couple of days ago my screen blacked out - "no signal input".  I checked connections - all ok.  On rebooting then, and every time thereafter, I got beep code: 1 long, 3 short beeps, which I found apparently means memory failure, which I took to mean RAM.  I checked both sticks in various combinations but to no avail. I later found out that the memory referred to is the graphics card memory.  I should like to know if there is a way to test the graphics card with no monitor screen.  Any suggestions or advice on what might be wrong appreciated.  (I have a second, older, XP PC available.Surprisingly there is a hot hit on google for this beep code and ASUS boards. Didnt expect as many hits to be ASUS in nature. https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=beep+code+1+long+3+short


This link here has some suggestions on what to check.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/193422-31-asus-p5wd2-premium-long-short-beeps-blank-screen

If you have a spare good power supply, you might want to swap out the power supply to see if this takes care of this if reseating memory, and video card swap with another good card doesnt fix this. I have seen borderline power supplies act up and cause errors like this when the components are not functioning at the correct voltages.

Also resetting the BIOS to undo any potential overclock settings and set everything back to default might help if its a setting that is set for max performance with components that no longer work properly maxed out.Hi Dave - thanks for reply and links.
I've tried the obvious things, and the other suggestions from the links are a bit beyond my computer competence I THINK.  I did try to remove the graphics card (so simple in the how to videos!) but failed - I could find no retaining screw for the device, or access to any retaining clip.  I'll have to get a local expert to have a look.
Thanks again for interest.

If you have a digital camera handy, you can share a picture of the video card mounted in the case and we can point out how to remove it as well.Herewith a photo of my graphics card - hope it comes through ok - first time I've tried attachment to a post.
I think I've located the retaining screw - top right corner in PIC.  A very small bracket to the case takes the screw (both hardly noticeable).  I presume there is a clip at the bottom similar to those that retain the memory sticks, but I can't see it or get to it (if it's there).  My idea was to remove the card and somehow get it tested - maybe not a good idea.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Hi Dave -
Further to my last post - I got things completely wrong.  After looking more closely and poking about in the works, I have found  the screws ok.  There is a black plastic sort of handle (between the card and the fan)  that is attached to the hinged top over the end of the card and when lifted exposes the two retaining screws.  I have now removed the card and realise that there are no clips on the card slot.  Now all I have to do is figure out what to do next!
I'll put everything back together and see what happens.  One consolation is that this is all good hands-on experience. I am almost willing to bet from looking at the screenshot you shared that the cause for the problem is that the power supply P connector to Molex connections your using for the 12V direct to video card are not ADEQUATE enough, or the PSU is no longer able to carry the weight of the video card + motherboard, so the video card is starving for power at the direct 12V molex connections.

Do you have a better power supply that has the molex connectors as part of its harness without using the P-connector to Molex conversion that your doing which may be also weighing down heavily on the 12V rail that the HARD drive etc needs?Re power supply - my PSU = ColorSit 500U, 115/230 volts; it is the one ready installed, with all the wiring etc, in the pc  when bought.  I have no other.  Am I right in thinking that the P connector is the black 6-pin connector that fits into the card, and the Molex connectors are the white plastic connectors (each 3 pin) between the PSU and the P connector?  Also you mention '12V rail' - I don't know what that is other than that it is part of the PSU.     Those "ColorsIT" units are pretty much as bad as you get - Lost track of how many I've had to replace.  A power supply like that should have never been used, especially in a system with such a power hungry video card.

You will need to get a known working PSU to test with.  For your machine you should be looking at a good quality UNIT from a proper brand such as XFX, Seasonic, Corsair, EVGA.etc around the 500w mark.  Don't expect to pay less than £10 for every 100w that the unit is rated for.  With PSUs you get what you pay for.

Just got BACK from vacation and moved my mouse and keyboard but nothing came on screen. Changed batteries, reset, nothing. Have tried a manual reboot but still nothing. I've noticed on the front panel there is an amber WARNING LIGHT flickering with pictures of discs below it. What does that mean? I pushed the button below that, the tray opened and there is no disc INSIDE. I pushed the button below that and nothing happened. Any ideas what to do or try next? It's the P6000 series and I think I was running IE 7. There is power to tower hence the amber light and the light blue button on top is lit and power to monitor, remains orange, never gets to green. Screen remains black.Wait, so you left the machine switched on for your whole vacation?  Why?

Try totally powering it off, leave it unplugged for a while, plug it back in and see if it works.  That light is just showing hard drive activity, it is not a warning.Ok I'll try that first. Didn't really think about shutting it down, it goes to sleep mode with no activity and is programmed for updates every Wednesday and shuts down after that anyways, so it was actually only left on 3-4 days. But next time I'll remember. I'd power it up...on A/C power tonite and go to bed...you'll know in the morning...I left it unplugged overnight, reconnected and now it booted up.  It previously would not make any beeps or flashing of lights. Not sure what was up. Ran Malware bytes and Superanti Spyware after, a few potentials I deleted but nothing major. The one problem I do have now is I can"t doubleclick on any icons. Nothing happens. But I can go to start menu, bring up program, click on it and it opens. Mouse does everything else Ok and batteries are new. Is there a way to FIX this?       -Correction: I also cannot click on dropdown boxes, when attempting to enter information

Hi there,

It was running fine but lately any program you run or open it gets frozen and the top bar shows it is 'not responding' or a window 'non responsive script' comes up.
I have adjusted the programs which launch upon starting up, I have run malware, spyware, scanned the whole thing and everything is fine.
I am at my wit's end - any help?
Thanks. Memtest 86 should be run on system as well as CrystalDiskInfo to check the hard drive health.


Bad MEMORY or a Troubled Hard Drive which also can act as temporary memory for virtual memory can cause PROBLEMS like this.


Lastly if you have done all of this and still have problems, I'd suggest a full clean rebuild of the system from factory discs or RESTORE partition to rebuild it fresh after first backing up all important data to an external drive if this is healthy enough to do this.I have been running memtest 86+ for almost 3 hours. It has done 4 passes and no error. How much longer shall I keep it running? ThanksMemtest86 showing no problems by now, I'd move on to a hard drive health check with crystaldiskinfo. If the drive shows up as Yellow ( warning ) or RED ( Failure ) status then it is the drive. OTHERWISE if the Hard Drive checks out fine, the best choice is to backup all data to a external drive and then perform a clean install. If after a clean install you still have a problem and the memtest and HDD passed then your likely dealing with a main board failure of some type.

Most problems like this are memory, hard drive, or just requiring a fresh clean build of the OS.I have run CrystalDiskInfo and got yellow caution. There are blue circles next to all items but one - Reallocated Sectors Count which has a yellow one.
Is there anything I can do? Thanks. I'd replace the hard drive as for it is heavily worn or damaged. If the problem you were having was only this ill hard drive, then the laptop will be cured of its problems hanging up on you.

1- I can't boot from usb drives

2- When i put the pc to sleep after a few minutes the light on the motherboard shuts off and there is no way to wake it back pressing keys, the only option is the power button and it reboots.

I had a problem in the past when one of the two were true...

- Driver missing for power management

- System RAM had an issue

Maybe the info here MIGHT help... I'd GO in and CHECK to see what its set to. HTTP://www.pcworld.com/article/256309/tweeking_windows_7s_sleeping_habits.htmlYou may wanna also check your power settings in the BIOS...
Personally i don't USE any Win power features since they pretty much don't work well...

I have this Laptop since 2006 and i dont feel like buying a new one ($$$$), i only wish i could change the processor to unleash it from its 32bit slowness.
Is it possible to make a 32bit laptop 64bit compatible by changing the processor? If not could i change the motherboard or it would be too much of a hassle?
I'm new to this whole game and willing to learn.
Thank you!Simple answer: NO.
Here is why.
A 64 bit processor must be used in a motherboard built for the larger MEMORY space. Because the advantage of 64 bit is mostly the larger address space available. (Many laptops already had a 64 bit data bus.)
Laptops are not made to be updated like desktops can be.

The notable exception is a laptop that allows a video card to be added.
Here is how a laptop could be upgraded.
(Follow the links in the above web page.)

IMO, you may consider selling your laptop and getting a new one. A lot of improvements have been made in  the past 9 or ten years after you got your laptop. For one, the batteries are now better and now fast laptops use less power..  And, of course, they run either 32 bit or 64 bit software.
How good it would be if our computers were easier to upgrade.
Hope this helps.  I also agree that its time for a newer laptop if you want 64 bit. You can buy a refurb for around $150-$200 that is more powerful than this one and comes with Windows 7 64-bit. It wouldnt be a speed demon laptop at this price tag, but newer and probably better than what you have now.

I had a Core Duo 1.83Ghz laptop that I found to be too sluggish even with XP patched to the latest SP3 etc. Mine had a better GeForce Mobile 7300 with 128MB VRAM. Sadly my Intel Atom 1.66Ghz netbook was more RESPONSIVE than this older laptop and the Intel Atom is weak.

Hello,

I just currently tried USING my CD-ROM and it didnt work so i just restarted my computer and it still didnt work so then i looked into my device manager and my CD-ROM has a little yellow exclamation mark next to it.

So i looked that up and it says that, the yellow exclamation mark means the hardware is being conflicted with...

Then after all this i looked up alot of different ways of trying to fix this and nothing works at all.

I went to my local computer store and bought a brand new CD-ROM and INSTALLED it and i still have that little symbol next to it.
Ive tried running scans and got all the viruses and adware ect ect. outa my computer so thats another thing to mark off.

I also have another computer that i just built and its having the same exact problem so i really dont know whats happening. and i really need to use my CD-ROM as soon as possible so if anyone could be of my assistance and help me out it would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks in advance, DrewOdyssey.....  Please provide some INFO about the system .......
how many hard drives , how many OPTICAL drives , the operating system ......etc. Have you checked to be sure the drivers are installed . Did this condition just appear ?
Did the issue with the cd-rom start with the arrival of the viruses you say you have removed ?

dl65  You said you looked up a whole lot of things and tried them out but they didnt work either????mmmmmmmmm
Did you try removing the cd rom with the exclamation mark and rebooting to see if windows could locate it?  Have you tried seeing if it will work in MS Dos?  Have you properly hooked up the the cd rom and what have you gotten it set at?  Have you got power going to it?
Were these some of all the different things you tried out?Ok im running XP and ive tried going into safe mode and trying to see if it works in there and it doesnt, and yes i tried deleting it from device manager and restarting and windows does find it.

But the CD-ROM does open and close ect ect, it just wont read no discs, ive tried data disks and audio/video disks....

I also bought a brand new CD-ROM and it doesnt work ethier...

So i dont know...

Maybe ill just have to reformate?As was already asked how do you have it cabled and how are the jumpers set ? ?

I currently built a new computer within the last couple days. At first I had problems getting past the bios but quickly figured out that having both dvd rom drives plugged in was the problem. I installed windows flawlessly. I figured that once I installed winblows that it would fix the problem with  the dvd rom drive. When I have both drives plugged in the computer wont load past the bios SCREEN what could be the problem? I have tried using DIFFERENT boot sequences but still does not solve the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


SYSTEM SPECS:
AMD Opteron Dual Core 170 Socket 939
Tyan s2866 tomcat k8e-sli motherboard
Radeon 1650 pro 512 pci express
SAMSUNG SpinPoint T Series HD501LJ 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive
2X CORSAIR XMS 1GB 184-Pin DDR SDRAM DDR 400 (PC 3200)
2x SAMSUNG 18X DVD±R DVD Burner With 12X DVD-RAM Write, LIGHTSCRIBE Technology Black IDE Model SH-S182M/BEBEHow do you have your drives connected ? ?
And how are they jumpered ? ?

Use IDE 1 for any HDD's.

Use IDE 2 for the DVD drives. The one connected to the end of the ribbon cable should be jumpered as master and the one on the middle connector should be slave.

You will see the markings on the rear of each drive next to the Molex power connector.Ok I switched around the power source for both and that seemed to work. Both drives are now plugged in however I cannot see both drives in the bios or windows. I only see the masterYou might want to check the jumper settings for the slave.  It may not be jumpered properly.How do i check the settings?
Never mind i figured out that im a retard. I fixed the problem. It wasnt jumpered correctly. THANKS for the help  Glad you got it sorted it out.  It all seems so SIMPLE once you realize what you're doing.  Heh.

I am a Windows XP Home Edition User and want to upgrade my RAM to 256 MB of RAM
from 128 MB of RAM.



If you would like to see how your system configuration compares to the AOL recommended system configuration, please run a scan of your PC at Upgrade Advisor. Click the Check Your Computer Specs tab on the left hand navigation bar of Computer Check-Up and click Check Now.

I could not find Upgrade Advisor per say, . .

but I did go here;

Windows XP Upgrade Advisor
Microsoft's Upgrade Advisor helps you evaluate the readiness of your system for Window XP.

www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/pro/upgrading/advisor.mspx

How Do I USE Upgrade Advisor?
It's a simple process:

1.
 Check for Upgrade Eligibility: Find out if your version of Windows is eligible for an upgrade to Windows XP Professional
 

and recieved the following report, . .







however, I can't figure it out, am I eleigible or not ? , . . will appreciate your interpretation.

Jp
Are you upgrading your OS?  No, you SAID your're already running Win XP.  So, why would even ask about the (OS) Upgrade advisor?   Jp..... Quote

however, I can't figure it out, am I eleigible or not ?

When we purchased our computer, it came with a CD DRIVE that could burn. Everything worked perfectly. But recently, our CD burning software won't detect a blank disc (Always says "Please insert blank disc"). I've tried using different burning software and the same problem. The RECORDING tab for the drive is marked to allow this drive to burn, and I've even tried the registry fix from Microsoft!

System Info:
OS: Windows XP SP2
Disc Drive: SAMSUNG CDRW/DVD SM-352F

I've been using a Samsung disc so it would probably be compatible with the drive... I've tried other discs too. Please help!KEEP trying other brands of blank media...some drives are quite picky about this.
If all else FAILS it's possible the drive has gone South.Does the drive still read normal CD's?
Just for the heck of it, have you tried reinstalling the drivers?I've tried other brands of discs already, and they don't work. It reads CDs fine. I tried reinstalling the firmware, but it keeps saying it's incompatible?This SOUNDS like a firmware flash gone bad...

Unfortunately I don't have the liberty to build or use a desktop so I'm considering a new laptop. I like the Sager NP9377 but unfortunately it uses a 60Hz DISPLAY at 1080p. Is 980M SLI worth it at all or should I stick to a single 980M and put the rest of the budget somewhere else? Here's what I was thinking.

CPU: i7-4810MQ
GPU: 980M SLI
RAM: 16 GB RAM
SSD: 250GB SAMSUNG 850 EVO Series mSATA SSD
HDD: Two 1TB 7200 HDD in Raid 0

OR

CPU: i7-4810MQ
GPU: 980M
RAM: 16 GB RAM
SSD: 1TB Samsung 850 EVO Series mSATA SSD
HDD: Two 1TB 7200 HDD in Raid 0You would need to look at benchmarks for the games that you want to play but personally I wouldn't bother.  SLI in a laptop is only going to cause issues with power consumption, size and heat output.

However, I would not be doing what you are doing with storage there - A 1tb SSD is also a waste unless you really need it, an SSD will only speed up applications, not static files such as video so unless you need 1tb just for your programs/games, it's not worth it.  I would also advise against running hard drives in RAID 0, if one drive fails you lose everything therefore doubling your chance of total data LOSS. Quote from: camerongray on July 31, 2015, 12:14:56 PM

You would need to look at benchmarks for the games that you want to play but personally I wouldn't bother.  SLI in a laptop is only going to cause issues with power consumption, size and heat output.

However, I would not be doing what you are doing with storage there - A 1tb SSD is also a waste unless you really need it, an SSD will only speed up applications, not static files such as video so unless you need 1tb just for your programs/games, it's not worth it.  I would also advise against running hard drives in RAID 0, if one drive fails you lose everything therefore doubling your chance of total data loss.

pxe-E61: media TEST failure, check cable
pxe-m0f: existing intel boot agent

strike f1 to retry boot, f2 for set up utility


if any one experience the same . let me know to come out.

Thanks & Regards,
SPreplace the battery on the motherboard and then reset the bios to default. Then reboot.Is there actually an OS installed on the system?  How are the drives set up in terms of RAID?This MESSAGE means that your system is trying to start up by connecting to a NETWORK instead of the Hard Drive because it can't SEE the operating system on your Hard Drive for some reason. There are several reasons why this message could appear:

You want the system to use PXE but the the ethernet cable is not CONNECTED, or network is not available.
The boot sequence in the BIOS has been changed and is currently looking to PXE instead of the Hard Drive.
If you have recently made changes inside your system and have accidentally knocked, loosened, or not reconnected the Hard Drive cable on the Motherboard or the Hard Drive(s).
The Hard Drive has failed (faulty) for some reason.Just replace the battery and you'll be fine.

Please help me, i cant print inmy hp psc 1215 as it always says ERROR. Yesterday i PERFECTLY able to use it, but i cant. Thank you.The hp psc 1215 is a printer. Right?

Others have had some trouble also. Notice this article:

Microsoft Windows  8.1  and HP 1215



Quote from: llave on July 29, 2015, 10:20:03 AM

Please help me, i cant print inmy hp psc 1215 as it always says error. Yesterday i perfectly able to use it, but i cant. Thank you.

I have retyped my original post with more details of the issue, hope someone can help?


I recently built (or rather had built) a new pc, I am running Windows Vista Home Premium. I have with no success tried to install 2 new printers, a Epson DX5000 and a Brother DCP-330C both of which have Vista drivers available to download. With both installations I get the same problem, at the stage of connecting the printer to my pc VIA my USB the installation stops, (i.e. the printer installation screen does not change), the Windows new hardware screen comes up with the usual 3 options (automatic search, don‘t ask again & browse) asking for drivers for 'USB 2.0 mfp (hi speed)' not either of the actual printers. When I choose the search for drivers option no drivers can be found presumably because it is looking for other drivers rather than the printers, when I browse for the drivers and point Vista to the folder I have downloaded them to again they can't be found, again I am assuming it is looking for drivers for the USB 2.0 not the printers, what driver is my pc looking for? If you search the internet for the message I get 'USB 2.0 mfp (hi speed)' there are various forums pointing to motherboard issues, is this the case am I missing drivers for my motherboard (with my very limited knowledge does a motherboard have drivers?). That said when I look at the connections of other printers on other pc’s (family & friends) they are connected to a 'virtual USB port for printer', when I look in my device manager and printer port list there is no such port to connect to, can this be installed, if so how?  Has anyone else had similar issues, if so how did they OVERCOME them, I would be very grateful of any ADVISE given.
I had hoped this stupid problem would have been fixed in the new super vista !~***#** some lot microsoft.
Have you tried to install the drivers before ATTACHING the printer, if so what happened ?

Also if you go into DEVICE MANAGER are the usb devices showing normal or are they marked with a YELLOW exclamation,  click on each usb item and clear the "let the operating system manage power requirements"
grum........
Quote

I have retyped my original post with more details of the issue, hope someone can help?

Hey guys,

I'm back with another question.  Here goes...

I have a Linksys wireless internet card installed in my computer.  It worked great at the previous address I lived at, and I was able to get internet to my PC through my roommates' cable internet with no problems.  

In my new place, it's not picking up my roomate's internet.  It's finding other peoples' in the area (most of which require a WEP anyway) but not the internet in this household.  Can anyone troubleshoot me through this?  

Thanks much!
AndrewDid you get a manual on the CD that  came with it? Is this a different roommate?At your current address, is your roommate using a wireless router?  If this is the same roommate you had at the previous address, is the router the same as the one used at that address?Different roommate, different router.

The previous roommate had a 2wire router, my new one is using a WebSTAR router.  

I have a handbook that came with it, but the problem is when I search for signal, it finds various signals, just not the one I want and need.  

Does the router also have an Ethernet port or USB port so that you can temporarily connect your laptop to it using a CAT5e patch cable?

Do you KNOW the IP address, administrator's name, and administrator's password for the router so we can help you change the configuration?

And is your roomate aware you are going to be scarfing his signal ? ? Quote

And is your roomate aware you are going to be scarfing his signal ? ?

And is your roomate aware you are going to be scarfing his signal ? ?

What IP address did you type?  Verify it is exactly the same one as the default gateway in ipconfig.

anybody here TRIED HCT test on motherboard?
I have run HCT test on TWO different motherboard.
system STRESS test is selected.
But both test FAILED.

Greetings!

I built my Pc about 3 years ago. And it ran like a dream then. It was also quiet with the stock CPU cooler. Then obviously the thermal paste needed replacing so while i was at it i replaced the heat sink with a Dark Night cooler. That made things silent for the CPU. But now ill be playing GTA V and the fans on the GPU (im assuming GPu from watching the spike in heat according to speed fan from 50 to 71 degrees celcius ) GO nuts to a point its like a jet in here. The game continues to run just fine and everything's stable but is this normal? And is there anything i can do? ive cleaned the dust out of the PC recently too.

AMD Fx 8120 3.1GHZ
aftermarket Dark Night cooler
8GB DDR3 Ram
2x 1TB hard drives ( 1 boot OS and other personal files games ETC)
MSI hawk r6870 Twin Frozer III (i think 3)
CM STORM enforcer case
Confirm the noise is from which  fan.
Replace that fan. Or try and lubricate the fan, if you can.
http://www.techrepublic.com/article/quiet-noisy-computer-fans-with-a-drop-of-oil/
Quote

I prefer to use sewing machine oil, because, in addition to being a lightweight oil, it has excellent viscosity, holds up well at high temperatures, and is specifically designed to lubricate moving parts that operate at high speeds.

Alright so I got a TV Capture box the other day to capture my Xbox 360 games on PC so I can record my game play. So I rigged it all up and I capture the TV channels fine. Now I can capture the game KIND of but the only problem is it comes out as black and white. Now I am not sure if I am connecting it all together properly, maybe my TV is too old or something I dunno. I got some pictures of the cables, plugs, socket etc I have. Maybe someone COULD tell me if my TV can pull this off or where to plug them in.

The first one is this one which is plugged into the capture box
http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/9210/74922524yx1.jpg

The next pictures are the socket things I got on my TV
http://img461.imageshack.us/img461/917/tvsr3.jpg
http://img119.imageshack.us/img119/8045/tv2zj0.jpg

The downstairs TV which is a 32" SDTV has about the same stuff as this LITTLE TV in my room.

Here we have the Xbox 360 lead thing
http://img127.imageshack.us/img127/5735/360lh5.jpg

This is what I have been doing and the game only comes up on the PC in black and white
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/7084/80204367eu4.jpg

That's the Xbox lead thing into the capture card lead.

I also have this lead spare not sure if it can help
http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/610/p2003071307sn7.jpg

Please can anyone help me!

I have a flash drive of 128MB, such a small size of capacity should be recognized even in win98.
It's weird that when I plugged it to my notebook, the power light is on and I can read and write the data, but when I plugged it to my desktop (XP SP2), the power light never turns on.
I thought it may be the USB problem, so I change another USB port and tried, but it fails to work neither.
I have tested those USB ports in my Desktop with other USB hardware, and they all works.

So, come to the conclusion, I think the power assigned to any of the USB ports of my Desktop should not be enough; but any of these USB ports have been tested with USB HDD of 80GB, so the reason why the USB port can drive USB HDD but fails to drive a 128MB Flash Drive is a MYSTERY to me!

Please advise!Have you tried this flash drive on any other desktops ? ? Quote

Have you tried this flash drive on any other desktops ? ?

i never counter this kind of problem in xp sp2, have u try to reinstall the usb controller driver?

Quote

i never counter this kind of problem in xp sp2, have u try to reinstall the usb controller driver?

how to reinstall?

Instead, I am looking for an extension cable with two USB heads to gain power from two USB ports
for my USB flash drive.
But I am not sure if there is such a cable in the world?!

Quote

i never counter this kind of problem in xp sp2, have u try to reinstall the usb controller driver?

how to reinstall?

I guess the question should be does it work on other computers running Win98. [highlight]Some do not have drivers for that OS[/highlight]. The size of the drive itself is irrelevant.  

Quote

I guess the question should be does it work on other computers running Win98. [highlight]Some do not have drivers for that OS[/highlight]. The size of the drive itself is irrelevant.  

I was WORKING on a computer running Windows 98 that could not read a Quickbooks cd.  I changed out the CD-ROM drive a couple of times with new ones but still the same result.  Now the computer cannont EVEN find the CD-ROM.  I think the autoexec or config file might be messed up but i dont know what to do next.Post your autoexec and config sys and we'll take a LOOK...
Did you install DRIVERS for the CDRom ? ?
Win98 needs these in most cases.neither the autoexec or config seem to have much of anything because the only lines are removed but here they are:

Autoexec.bat

echo off
rem C:\Windows\Command\Mscdex.exe   /D:Mscd001

Config.sys

rem DeviceHigh =C:\MTMCDAL.sys    /D:Mscd001

The computer seems to find the CD-Rom when BOOTING up but not in my computer or windows explorerDid you install drivers for the CDRom ? ?

Sorry for SOUNDING silly but what is an AVR ? ? Quote

Sorry for sounding silly but what is an AVR ? ?

Hello, recently my computer fans (desktop) started acting weirdly. They hover on 1000 RPM most of the times but RANDOMLY jumps up to about 4500 rpm for a BRIEF moment.
Screenshot:
http://prntscr.com/7yogbt

This happens for no reason I recorded...Cpu and gpu temp stays the same cpu usage is around 20% .

for that brief moment they are super noisy...Can i fix this? How? Thank you. You may have a component failure.
It is hard to guess without the specs for your computer.
It is a Brand Name desktop?  Did you build it?
Run a program that identifies what your have.
CPU-Z is freeware that tells a lot.
Quote

CPU-Z is a freeware that gathers information on some of the main devices of your system :
    PROCESSOR name and number, codename, process, package, cache levels.
    Mainboard and chipset.
    Memory type, size, timings, and module specifications (SPD).
    Real TIME measurement of each core's internal frequency, memory frequency.

I really didn't know what to put as the subject, so I apologize if it's misleading.

I'm looking for devices that I can wirelessly control from my computer. I really don't know how to explain it. Nothing fancy. For example, if I wanted to build a robot that is able to go forward/backward/turn left or right and possibly send output back for, I don't know a video feed maybe. I'm not looking for the actual robot, just a device that can tells the robot what to do when it receives input wirelessly.Well, it totally depends on what you are trying to do, there are purpose built systems like Zigbee but there's also nothing to stop you using Bluetooth or WiFi for this, it all depends on what  you need it to do in terms of cost, power consumption and RANGE.  The robot would then just have some sort of computer/microcontroller that has support for whatever wireless system you decide to use.  For example, if you were to use an Arduino you can get MODULES for WiFi, Bluetooth or pretty much any other wireless standard that exists.

There are also RF systems such as those from Ciseco which is what I used when I did a very similar project however there is no error checking so this creates a lot of additional work as commands can get randomly corrupt/lost in transmission (especially when a lot of these devices are in use at once in the same location).  Something like WiFi or Bluetooth would be a lot easier in this respect.Thanks for the reply! This information is really helpful! But to narrow it down since you've said "Depends on what your doing", I'm just experimenting(with a very low BUDGET I might add)! As I'm very interested in computer engineering.

I'll continue on what you've given me here, but if you have any other helpful information, it would be greatly appreciated!I am a Robotics Coach for a local school that has a Robotics Team. We get a kit from www.usfirst.org that we then use to build our robot from. Our robots are controlled wireless for the High School Robotics and for Middle School Robotics they use the Lego Mindstorm controllers. Years ago we use to use the Basic Stamp processor for the radio controlled robots, then they went to the Basic Stamp II and then last I knew they were using the Arduino Leonardo++ microcontroller as seen here: http://www.16hertz.com/product/16hertz-leonardo-plus-plus/

The only problem with dabling with wireless controlled devices for robotics is that unless you take an already existing product that is mass produced and low cost and hardware hack it, creating something from scratch without hardware hacking/modding already existing devices, the price can easily go beyond what you can afford to work with.

There are companies out there that sell wireless robotic platforms to build on from without having to create one from complete scratch, but entry level into this is in the $1200 range. http://www.superdroidrobots.com/shop/category.aspx/wifi-robots/90/

If your looking to have a computer control a robot wirelessly, the lowest cost solution I could think of would be to get a low cost toy RC Car and use its controls for left/right, forwards/backwards which probably runs at like 27mhz radio frequency, and use the motor/solenoid control from the car in your robot. Then take the normally hand held controller that has the 2 joy sticks for left/right steering and forward/backward motor control, and get a Serial or USB Controlled Relay board such as the following 4-Channel which would allow for Right, Left, Forward, Backward movement with each relay controlling an action. This is the cheapest I could think of that would work for you. If you want the robot to be able to do more than just move around, you would need more channels to control as well as add additional radio controlled hardware. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/281027911107

But for around $100 you could take an already existing computer, RC Car gutted for radio control and electro-mechanical guts, and a relay controller and have a radio controlled robot through computer. * If going this hardware hack/mod method, I'd keep the RC Car intact at first and get your PC to interface with the Relay Control board that is hard wired to the handheld radio control for the RC car. Then dig into the programming that is involved to control your car on the floor. Once you have it all working correctly and know how to program it to control it from the computer through this 4 channel relay control which controls the hand held RC Car radio controller, then you can carefully gut the RC Car to make your robot from it.

Hope this info helps. I have helped students make low cost robots by buying low cost devices and gutting them to use for alternate hardware Hack/Mod purposes. 

*** Lastly this low cost radio controlled robot has no fail safe for its radio communications though. Most RC Cars/Planes etc do not have authentication to verify that the signal they are receiving is the signal your giving them and so if there are other devices in the area that emit a signal that the radio control takes as a positive command, the robot will move on its own without your controlling of it. This disclosure is on just about all RC toy devices in the manual anyways. Quote from: AlienNova on July 27, 2015, 08:54:57 AM

Thanks for the reply! This information is really helpful! But to narrow it down since you've said "Depends on what your doing", I'm just experimenting(with a very low budget I might add)! As I'm very interested in computer engineering.

Whenever I put a disk in my DVD writer, the screen goes blank and I am not able to use the COMPUTER. I then have to switch off the computer and restart. If I do not use the optical drive the computer works properly. If I use the optical drive in another computer it works perfectly but yet if I connect any other optical drive in my computer, I still have the same problem as outlined above.
The optical drive I am using is an LG DVD dual layer writer, 16 speed. I am using Windows XP SP2 on a P4 motherboard with a 2.4GHz Pentium processor and 256MB DDR RAM. There have been no configuration or HARDWARE changes, but the problem just started. Prior to this, the computer WORKED without any problems for about 2.5 years.
It does not seem as if the problem is with the DVD-writer itself. I would really appreciate any help concerning what the problem could be, and how to RECTIFY it.
Thanks in advance!

I can't offer you a whole lot of help, but out of curiosity, what kind of protection do you have?  And when was the last time you did a virus scan? Quote

Whenever I put a disk in my DVD writer, the screen goes blank and I am not able to use the computer. I then have to switch off the computer and restart. If I do not use the optical drive the computer works properly. [highlight]If I use the optical drive in another computer it works perfectly[/highlight] but yet if I connect any other optical drive in my computer, I still have the same problem as outlined above.
The optical drive I am using is an LG DVD dual layer writer, 16 speed. I am using Windows XP SP2 on a P4 motherboard with a 2.4GHz Pentium processor and 256MB DDR RAM. There have been no configuration or hardware changes, but the problem just started. Prior to this, the computer worked without any problems for about 2.5 years.
It does not seem as if the problem is with the DVD-writer itself. I would really appreciate any help concerning what the problem could be, and how to rectify it.
Thanks in advance!

grum.....
Re the Epsom ...... http://esupport.epson-europe.com/ViewFAQ.aspx?lng=en-GB&ID=KB070001EN&data=354ECF80483622405C4B8769B978446C458D2EEA1A0D465A0C939DFC39A9C3EE

Re the Brother ...... I was just on their site ...and I dont see that its Vista compatible...... http://www.brother.ca/en/all-in-one/description.asp?prodid=6646503691510207520&specs=on
Please let us know if this is of any assistance.

dl65  

Here are the drivers from dl65's link : (thanks dl65)

http://esupport.epson-europe.com/SoftwareListing.aspx?lng=en-EU&data=9F883F1291B579D3D464C0F98348EBB9E17EA7FAD1361A958853014FF1C92353

I would stick with the driver section and not worry about the software in the lower list. After the printer is stable you can get those.

You will see (2) of the foursome having the same ID.
One is "later" and not yet blessed by MS.
It's larger than the original which hints of a "PATCH".
I would use the later, larger version...blessed or not.

So, there are three separate downloads here.
Put them in a file and jot down the file name and where it is.

Fire up Vista and when the "Found New Hardware" wizard pops up, simply point it to your DX5000 driver file.

Of course, make sure that the files are decompressed , if necessary, before placing in a file.
Make sure that the other printer is not plugged in while you deal with the first one.

Now, if that driver file system is not your cup of tea, try this :
Go to that Epson driver page and D/L, un-zip, and burn those three elements to a CD.

Then point Vista to the CD when asked.
Thank you for the reply, however I have tried without any success your suggestion.  I have downloaded both driver versions for the Epson.  I have spent about 3 hours in total speaking to Brothers helpline and Epson's all to no avail, I received an email from Brother's support who successfully installed the DCP-330C on a computer running Vista after my problem to make sure the drivers do work.  When I am asked to search for the drivers Windows does not FIND them automatically, when I browse and point Vista to the folder I have downloaded and unziped/decompressed the drivers to again they can't be found.  I am not convinced my pc can see the usb as searching the internet for 'windows needs to install drivers for usb 2.0 MFP (hi SPEED)' I can find several forums all relating to motherboard issues.  

Anymore suggestions would be very much appreciated.


****This thread is being locked.... the poster has started another one.

Hola folks, I hope you are all doing great. So my Satellite L850-B750 suffered a hard drive crisis 2 months ago. Basically, it got slower and showed SMART ERRORS. Since then, I have been running it but there have been increasing issues with it. I finally go the opportunity to get a new internal HDD. Firstly, what alternative do you suggest to MQ01ABD100? Should I just get this drive again? I basically need a SIMILAR storage device but anything better would be welcome.
Secondly, I have a lot of data and my original OS installed on the failing drive. Can I clone it without the risk of data loss? Would creating an image would be better? A serviceperson told me imaging has less risk of data loss than cloning. Is that true? What equipment would I need and if you COULD share any good amazon link that ships worldwide?

Thank youA serviceperson told me imaging has less risk of data loss than cloning. Is that true?

The risk with cloning is if you get confused between say Drive 1 containing your important data and Drive 2 the blank drive, you could if you get the sequence backwards clone the blank drive to the drive that had data deleting your data.

Your biggest problem is that you have a laptop that doesnt allow for 2 hard drives to be connected internally. And cloning between an internal drive and another connected via USB is quite slow if it works at all. The best way to clone is between 2 drives connected to the drive controller such as SATA ports. This would run the unhealthy drive for only as long as its required to transfer data, as for a slower communication means could allow for a drive that overheats to run hot before all data is transferred and then cut out.

What OS do you have on the laptop to work with? We might be able to get you to image your drive successfully and go that route since its a laptop.Thank you very much for the reply.(I noticed i typed the post hastily and made some language errors :p). Anyway, I am running windows 8.1. I got the sata to sata cable but im not sure how I would go about using that for creating an image.
P.S: I just turned on the laptop.Although its working its really slow now and booting etc takes good amount of time.Hi

To add to what Dave said, I would replace the drive with

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-1TB-Laptop-Hard-Drive/dp/B00DCM91WQ/ref=sr_1_144?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1438118827&sr=1-144&keywords=western+digital
I would copy the drive on a desktop PC using
http://hddguru.com/software/HDD-Raw-Copy-Tool/
If you don't have a desktop with spare drive ports can you find anyone with a setup like that to do it for you. Any computer repair company would have that setup.
The reason to use that Western Digital drive, is it is a few Mb larger than the Toshiba drive which you need when raw coping a drive.
If you raw copy a drive this way providing there isn't too many errors on the source drive everything is copied exactly. So when the  WD drive is put into the laptop and it will boot up the same as the Toshiba MQ01ABD100 drive . But a lot faster
A computer company would have tools like Paragon drive copy which would copy the source drive to say a smaller ssd and still have the ssd as a bootable drive. Software like that costs.

If you would like a hardware option
http://www.amazon.com/Dyconn-Dubbler-DUBDB-Superspeed-Docking/dp/B0094C0DYI/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1438119886&sr=1-9&keywords=usb+disk+copier
But as Dave said you have to be extra careful which way you clone the drive . I don't know how good the instructions are with that unit but normally they are very brief.
And they don't seem to handle disk errors without stopping the copy.
The Rawcopy above seems to handle data errors much better.I personally prefer the drive duplicator as for its fast, however it might be only a 1 time use if you dont have any future use for it. I got mine for $40 at newegg around christmas on a sale that I couldnt pass up and it works fast and very well.  I have used it to clone HDD's and SSD's and HDD to SSD and SSD to HDD etc.
http://www.unitek-products.com/en/product_detail.php?id=302

If going this route you have to be careful to get the drives placed correctly so that your not overwriting the troubled drive and wiping out its data. If done correctly it works well if the drive isnt too far gone to grab all the data off of it. 

The duplicator that Lisa suggested also would work. I just wanted to specify my model that i have that works well, and I have used many times.


*** Also you can use it to turn a drive into an external if you need to grab data off of a drive or want to use a drive as an external.



     

QUOTE

- Super Speed (5 Gbps) / high-speed (480 Mbps) / full-speed (12 Mbps)

- SATA III (6 Gbps) & SATA II (3 Gbps ) & SATA I (1.5 Gbps)

- Supports offline duplicate function, all data or system files copy into your target hard disk by pressing one simply button. Copy rate at 230 MB/s     

- Accept 2 x 3.5" or 2.5" SATA HDD plug-in one compact unit, data can be transfer between 2.5” and 3.5” SATA HDD

- Two hard drives can be read & write at the same time

- The dual bay docking station connects to the computer via USB3.0

- Hot swappable, without driver installation

- LED progress indicator shows clear copy status

If there are errors on the drive, you might not be able to clone or image it.  You should have done something when you saw the SMART warning.

I have no idea what to do.  My computer keeps going to BSOD and restarting.  I tried to search why, but it only stays on for maybe 1 or 2 minutes before it simply goes to the BSOD and restarts again.  I don't even have time to read the screen and see what the error codes are or anything.  I only have my grandsons laptop to do trouble shooting so any thoughts or ideas are appreciated.  I've checked all the CONNECTIONS, appear to be solid and intact, and I don't know what happened prior as I was sleeping and the wife was playing a game (probably on facebook) and all of sudden it went to bsod and keeps doing it.  thanks in advance1) What is new or different since the last time everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?

2) Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next replyAs far as I am aware nothing new was added, changed, or anything, but then again, I was asleep after work. But I couldn't find anything.  Just for info, the computer hasn't shut down this time but here is the file.

==================================================
Dump File         : 071115-13026-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 7/11/2015 12:24:13 PM
Bug Check String  : PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
Bug Check Code    : 0x00000050
Parameter 1       : fffff8a0`0626cbfc
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 3       : fffff880`0585a434
Parameter 4       : 00000000`00000000
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+748c0
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.18869 (win7sp1_gdr.150525-0603)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+748c0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\071115-13026-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 8
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 276,864
Dump File Time    : 7/11/2015 12:25:38 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 071115-12932-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 7/11/2015 12:16:05 PM
Bug Check String  : PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
Bug Check Code    : 0x00000050
Parameter 1       : fffff8a0`05a8affe
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 3       : fffff880`06a66560
Parameter 4       : 00000000`00000000
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+748c0
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.18869 (win7sp1_gdr.150525-0603)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+748c0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\071115-12932-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 8
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 276,864
Dump File Time    : 7/11/2015 12:17:30 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 071115-19453-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 7/11/2015 12:10:51 PM
Bug Check String  : PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
Bug Check Code    : 0x00000050
Parameter 1       : fffff8a0`0fec5ffe
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 3       : fffff880`047c0560
Parameter 4       : 00000000`00000000
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+748c0
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.18869 (win7sp1_gdr.150525-0603)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+748c0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\071115-19453-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 8
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 276,864
Dump File Time    : 7/11/2015 12:12:24 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 071115-14757-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 7/11/2015 12:03:47 PM
Bug Check String  : PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
Bug Check Code    : 0x00000050
Parameter 1       : fffff8a0`0e377ffe
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 3       : fffff880`069bf560
Parameter 4       : 00000000`00000000
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+748c0
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.18869 (win7sp1_gdr.150525-0603)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+748c0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\071115-14757-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 8
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 276,864
Dump File Time    : 7/11/2015 12:05:13 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 071115-14835-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 7/11/2015 11:54:55 AM
Bug Check String  : PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
Bug Check Code    : 0x00000050
Parameter 1       : fffff8a0`0ecafbfc
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 3       : fffff880`05565434
Parameter 4       : 00000000`00000000
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+748c0
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.18869 (win7sp1_gdr.150525-0603)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+748c0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\071115-14835-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 8
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 276,864
Dump File Time    : 7/11/2015 11:56:01 AM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 071115-24585-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 7/11/2015 11:49:46 AM
Bug Check String  : PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
Bug Check Code    : 0x00000050
Parameter 1       : fffff8a0`0e0ecffe
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 3       : fffff880`04284560
Parameter 4       : 00000000`00000000
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+748c0
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.18869 (win7sp1_gdr.150525-0603)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+748c0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\071115-24585-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 8
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 276,864
Dump File Time    : 7/11/2015 11:51:08 AM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 071115-23540-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 7/11/2015 11:44:19 AM
Bug Check String  : PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
Bug Check Code    : 0x00000050
Parameter 1       : fffff8a0`0f2b6bfc
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 3       : fffff880`05503434
Parameter 4       : 00000000`00000000
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+748c0
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.18869 (win7sp1_gdr.150525-0603)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+748c0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\071115-23540-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 8
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 276,864
Dump File Time    : 7/11/2015 11:45:43 AM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 071115-21871-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 7/11/2015 11:39:25 AM
Bug Check String  : PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
Bug Check Code    : 0x00000050
Parameter 1       : fffff8a0`0cea7ffe
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 3       : fffff880`05491560
Parameter 4       : 00000000`00000000
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+748c0
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.18869 (win7sp1_gdr.150525-0603)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+748c0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\071115-21871-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 8
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 276,864
Dump File Time    : 7/11/2015 11:40:41 AM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 071115-19858-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 7/11/2015 11:33:53 AM
Bug Check String  : PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
Bug Check Code    : 0x00000050
Parameter 1       : fffff8a0`05764ffe
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 3       : fffff880`0425c560
Parameter 4       : 00000000`00000000
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+748c0
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.18869 (win7sp1_gdr.150525-0603)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+748c0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\071115-19858-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 8
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 276,864
Dump File Time    : 7/11/2015 11:35:17 AM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 071115-19546-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 7/11/2015 11:28:36 AM
Bug Check String  : PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
Bug Check Code    : 0x00000050
Parameter 1       : fffff8a0`044b8bfc
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 3       : fffff880`054bc434
Parameter 4       : 00000000`00000000
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+748c0
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.18869 (win7sp1_gdr.150525-0603)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+748c0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\071115-19546-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 8
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 276,864
Dump File Time    : 7/11/2015 11:30:09 AM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 071115-19827-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 7/11/2015 11:23:17 AM
Bug Check String  : PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
Bug Check Code    : 0x00000050
Parameter 1       : fffff8a0`0441effe
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 3       : fffff880`0517c560
Parameter 4       : 00000000`00000000
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+748c0
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.18869 (win7sp1_gdr.150525-0603)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+748c0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\071115-19827-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 8
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 276,864
Dump File Time    : 7/11/2015 11:24:52 AM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 071115-21106-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 7/11/2015 11:17:57 AM
Bug Check String  : PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
Bug Check Code    : 0x00000050
Parameter 1       : fffff8a0`0456cffe
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 3       : fffff880`0668f560
Parameter 4       : 00000000`00000000
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+748c0
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.18869 (win7sp1_gdr.150525-0603)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+748c0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\071115-21106-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 8
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 276,864
Dump File Time    : 7/11/2015 11:19:32 AM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 071115-26161-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 7/11/2015 11:12:17 AM
Bug Check String  : PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
Bug Check Code    : 0x00000050
Parameter 1       : fffff8a0`1fcedffe
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 3       : fffff880`06c8e560
Parameter 4       : 00000000`00000000
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+748c0
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.18869 (win7sp1_gdr.150525-0603)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+748c0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\071115-26161-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 8
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 276,864
Dump File Time    : 7/11/2015 11:14:06 AM
==================================================

thanksFirst thing you want to do is check your ram: download memtest (http://memtest.org/). Burn it to a cd using a dedicated .iso burning utility (http://www.petri.co.il/how_to_write_iso_files_to_cd.htm), make sure the cd drive is at the top of the boot order in bios, then boot to the newly created cd and run the utility

Also, you should run a diagnostic on your hd: http://www.tacktech.com/display.cfm?ttid=287
Make sure you select the tool which is APPROPRIATE for the brand of your hard drive.
Depending on the program, it'll create bootable floppy, or bootable CD.
If downloaded file is of .iso type, use ImgBurn: http://www.imgburn.com/ to burn .iso file to a CD (select "Write image file to disc" option), to make the CD bootable.
For Toshiba drives, see here: http://sdd.toshiba.com/main.aspx?Path=ServicesSupport/FujitsuDrivesUSandCanada/SoftwareUtilities#diagnostic
okay thanks, I'll get back to you when I get the chance, kind of busy...thanksJust a quick follow up.  I'm still going to do the steps above, assuming i can figure out who makes my hard drive, i've looked but all it says is standard disk (it's a dell xps that i have).  But I shut the system down, and turned it back on later, and it's been running w/o a bsod for about 6  hours now.  So i don't know what the problem was/is, maybe i'll know more after doing the above steps, but thanks again for all the input.  Your HD manufacturer and model should be listed in Device Manager (CONTROL Panel). For a comprehensive list of installed components and software, download, install and run Belarc Advisorgetting ready to work on above tasks.  how do I know which memtest to use, and according to belarc my harddrive is arrayo but I didn't see that listed.  this is so weird, cuz it was working fine the other night and when I first downloaded belarc it went to a blue screen, but today, belarc worked just fine, and this time when I first tried to post this msg it went to blue screen.  oh well, i'll work on the above tasks first.  thanks.
Never heard of arrayo. Look in Device Manager - what does it list as your hd? that's what it says in device manager as well, when I click it , just says standard disk driveOkay. Well you can try the dos version of the WD utility or you can just do the following (which isn't as comprehensive, but it's better than nothing):

Right-click on a command prompt icon and open as administrator. In the command prompt window type: chkdsk /r  (then press ENTER). You'll be told the disk is in use and asked if you want to run checkdisk on the next boot. Say yes, exit the command prompt window, and reboot."arrayo" is probably "Array0" which is something of a pseudo-device created when your HDD is on a RAID Array.

From what I can find it seems that Dell XPS systems come preconfigured with two hard disks as part of a BIOS-level RAID Array. This would explain why it would be listed and detected as "array0".

I've tried to find what brand of HDD they use but they don't appear to have it listed anywhere.Thanks BCokay thanks, i'll be working on the steps then.okay, got the memtest done, said no errors.  MOVING to the next step.  thanks

I don't mind HEAVY HIGH QUALITY games, just normal gaming, such as Minecraft, battlefield, ONLINE flash games, or even heavy games, league of legends, but on low quality.

These are the specifications for the PC

HP Desktop
WINDOWS 8.1 64 BIT
Intel Core i7
NVidia Geforce GTX 660M+ i remember
8GB RAM
1 TB HDD is this on the wrong subforum, or these doesnt get asked at all?
its been a few days

OK here is my story i bought a 1gb ddr sdram for my computer. My computer had a 256mb ram in it before. SO after i put in the 1bg i had 1gb 256mb of ram. Then after like 2 WEEKS after it was installed the computer crashed and wouldnt work with the 1gb of ram. So i took the 1gb of ram out and it works fine. But i would way rather have the 1gb installed than the 256mb, but everytime i put the 1gb in the computer MAKES this really wierd beeepin noise. What should i do?You may have bought the wrong RAM or it's faulty. What make and model is your computer?  

Edit: I inadvertently overwrote my original post, which contained more than the above.Ok my computer does support up to 2gb of ram. My computer has 2 slots for ram. I have tried installing the 1gb in both slots and it still makes the beepin noise when its turned on. What should i do? Quote

You may have bought the wrong RAM or it's faulty. What make and model is your computer?