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I had bought a new sound card for my PC, and when it was installed, it did not work. The person who installed it messed everything up, and now I cannot connect to the internet. I RECEIVED an error message to contact my ISP, and when I did, they had me do an IPCONFIG. I went to start, RUN, typed in cmd, then the screen came up, and I entered ipconfig, and nothing happenned. The tech guy said my drivers for my NIC card had been removed. I connect to the internet through a cable modem. I now have no way to access the internet from that PC, and I need to know if there is any way I can get the drivers, or the adaptor as the error message below says I no longer have , back?? I have been using the pc for about 2 years now, and have always connected with AOL BROADBAND. The machine was fine yesterday, after the incident with the sound card, and all the sudden went down. I have tried SEVERAL times to do a system restore to go back to 3/12/07, and it will not let me. I get the message that we have new hardware installed, SM Bus Controller............I am not sure what that is, or how to remove it.

I have an emachines pc - MFG - Gateway
AMD Sempron 3000+ , MMX , 3D NOW processor
512MB RAM
WINDOWS XP - SP2
MS Office

ERROR I RECEIVE WHEN TRYING TO CONNECT TO INTERNET WITH AOL BROADBAND:

ERROR AC - 3001; err 0X84100118
TCP/IP Connection - NO IP ADAPTOR
OS WINXP-SP2; ACS 4.7.6.4


Any and all help will be appreciated.

Swainieis it possible that the network cable has been disconnected and not put back?
this would GIVE you the same sort of results as you are getting.
have you looked into the control panel/ network connections/  in there you should be able to see " Local Area Connection " and then beside that a name of the network card or chip if it is an onboard type like :- Realtek , Netgear , Linksys , SMC .

" Local Area Connection " does this show a disconnected note beside it?
the drivers for the network card are on the support disc from eMachines but it might require a re installation depending how the disc is set to work.I have checked everything on the pc. The ethernet port is an on board THING, and there is a green light light up next to it. I believe the person who was trying to "install" my NEW sound card, deleted my drivers. I do not have any discs for the pc..............is there any way to get the drivers back with out the discs? The model is a W3050................


Thanks,

SwainieGet the model of motherboard / borrow a friends Internet connection / download the drivers / install.

Alan <><

So I messed up and I need to know how to fix what I've done. I got my internet password changed and the Alienware ALPHA UI wouldn't let me connect to the internet after several attempts with the new password entered CORRECTLY. I tried restarting the console and all the basic stuff, but it still wouldn't connect. I looked it up and other people were having the same problem. They said that the only way to fix it at the moment was to restore it to the factory settings. So I went to do that, but it started to take a long time and I changed my mind so I turned it off. Then when I BOOTED it back up, it had a blue screen that said the computer needed to be repaired or whatever and to hit F8 to GO to the special settings. I also looked up how to fix this problem but then when I did what they said would fix it, it messed it all up. Then when I booted it up again, it was a black screen that said I need to reinstall the windows thing. (I can't remember what it said) then to press a key when its installed. So now I can't do anything with my Alienware Alpha. When I press any button it pops up the same message in white letters over and over.  Please help

EDIT: Worked perfectly before. Was really fun to play games with. Now its messed up and I have no idea how to fix it. you've obliterated the Operating System Install by interrupting the Factory Restore.

You will need to get a Windows disc to reinstall Windows. You may be able to get a factory restore DVD from Dell if you contact their support, which will allow you to hopefully complete the restore process.Ok I'll try that, Thank you very much. How would you suggest I install windows to it? There isn't a disc DRIVER on the device so I could get it on a usb drive. Right? So when i get it on a usb drive, I plug it in and press a button? If so, how do i get it onto a usb drive? Thanks again.I got it. I found this link that tells me how to get a restore program onto a usb flash drive which will repair the system and get the windows back onto it.
http://www.eightforums.com/tutorials/5132-recovery-drive-create-usb-flash-drive-windows-8-a.htmlI got the restore thing onto a USB drive and it still didn't fix it. I turned on my Alienware Alpha to the black screen and it said to select a proper boot media and then press a key. I put the USB into it and pressed a key and nothing happened. I pressed all the keys and it just kept repeating the same message in white letters. Can someone please tell me what I need to do to fix this?Try setting the HDD as 1st boot device... Quote from: patio on August 19, 2015, 01:39:12 PM

Try setting the HDD as 1st boot device...

Hi!!! please help!!!

My problem i my lap MSI GT70 WONT start after i install all updates of Windows 10 and installing Steam and play like 3 MINUTES (because i was WORKING)

Then when in my house i try to POWER on and i have this problem,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q9xrFa42Czk

Please help!!!

I uninstall all hardware (GTX770m, Intel Core i7, RAMs, keyboard, Hard DRIVE ) and nothing (no MSI logo)

but its strange because the battery charge its ok and in the laptop its charging.

First of all sorry if it's not related to this forum, wasn't sure which one
So I have a this cd driver called שם   TSSTcorp CDDVDW SH-222AB ATA Device
and when I play some (original) music cd's in it, it plays them chopped, like skip every TWO seconds of the music
at first I thought driver is bugged, but when I play some of my other cd's, it work fine
are the specific cd's are damaged ? nope, plays just fine on other computer drivers..
Only explanation is it's a specific type of cd the driver cannot read good.. as far as i can figure, but is there anything I can do to fix it ? like updating it, or I don't know what
I'm not much a computer genius as you probebly figured out so please try to be SIMPLE with your answers
Thanks A LOT !You will probably find that swapping the drive with a new one will fix this issue. As drives age they start to act like this when the laser and EYE get weak. One last attempt to save this drive would be if you had a CD cleaner disc to run in it to have that clean the eye. If this is a desktop its a cheap swap. If its a laptop it may be more costly. For a desktop computer you could get a replacement for under $20.Does swapping it is something I can do on my own with damaging anything or need a technician ? (desktop computer)Desktop computer is fairly easy. If your unsure of how to enter the inside of your case you can share a picture or make/model of it here and we can guide you. Some dells for example have tricky case locking mechanisms ETC, however most steel box type cases have 1 or 2 screws at each side panel that when removed they slide off and expose the inner computer. You will need access to both sides of the drive bay and so you would be removing both side panels if this is a tower computer case.


Here is your drive with some pictures. There will be 4 screws (2 on each side) which will require a philips or a torx screw driver to remove, and then there are just 2 connections a SATA DATA cable and a SATA POWER cable connection. These connections are keyed and so they just tug gently to remove and push on the connector to the new drive.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827151233Yap saw a video, pretty easy thing to do, and every driver (as long as it is SATA connection) fits to every computer right ?
so thanks, I'll guess I'll just spend this 20$ and replace it with a new one..
Thanks again Driver Problems these days are a thing of the past for Optical Drives. 20+ years ago you would have to hunt the correct driver down, especially when the first drives came out and they didnt standardize yet to a universal controller and you had to add Optical Drive cards which were sometimes combo cards with sound card etc on some older sound blaster cards etc back in the days of the 386,486 and early Pentiums with CD-ROM drives. Over the last 15 years IDE and now SATA drives have made it so much easier to just swap and run with very few problems. SATA removed the most common problem which was people who didnt know that IDE devices needed to be jumper configured on each drive with Master ( MA ) , Slave ( SL ), or Cable Select ( CS ) for desktop computers. With SATA its just a power and data connection and few screws to mount it into the bay and your good to go. 

Best of Luck!

So I have one Corsair CM3X2G1333C9 DDR3 2GB RAM and I want another 2GB RAM so I can have 4GB but I can't find ram like that anymore and I don't have a LOT of money to just but a new pack so I need another 2GB RAM that I can use with that one. Different brand or something. Pls help.
P.S This is my motherboard Asus P5G41T-M LX2/GB. It only has 2 RAM places and 1 is used. So what RAM should I get?Best method is to travel to crucial.com and run the online scan...
You don't have to buy theirs but the specs you need will be provided...then you can shop accordingly.

Another option is to DLoad and read the ASUS QVL list for the RAM for that MBoard...
QVL means the RAM listed has been tested in the ASUS LABS on that board and is approved...I tried the  Crucial.com  and there wasn't even my RAM on there there only was DDR2 RAMs.Because that's what the PC can handle...
If you doubt it check the QVL list from ASUS as per suggestion.It is a DDR3 Motherboard and will only accept DDR3. If the scanner says DDR2, then the scanner is flat out incorrect.

Here is the Memory QVL list for that motherboard. If you cannot find a DIMM that is the same as the one currently installed, you should be fine to select one from that list. Bear in mind that the faster DIMM will be run at the speed of the slower DIMM, so if you get a slower DIMM you'll slow down the existing memory as well. Whether memory speed matters in terms of actually perceiving a difference is another question.I have had Crucials memory tool fail to report properly on me ( and lie )as well in the past, so I always now open the case and look at the motherboard and then look up the motherboard memory specs anymore. While crucials memory scanner is probably correct 99% of the time, this is a situation where it failed yet again.

My Biostar MCP6PB M2+ Crucials scanner claimed I had 4 memory slots for maximum of 8GB SUPPORTED at 2GB per slot and I bought 4 x 2GB sticks. When I GOT the RAM for the system, I realized that it lied to me when there were only 2 slots on this board.  The memory controller likely supported 8GB, but the motherboard only had 2 slots for a total of 4GB. I ended up RETURNING 2 of the 4 sticks.

Everytime I want to START my computer it stops responding. I try to boot Windows stops responding, I try to reinstall Windows it stops responding, I enter BIOS it stops responding. What to do? 6GB RAM, 4 GHz AMD A4, AMD Radeon R7 240 and the Gigabyte motherboard as in the other threads of mine. Quote

I enter BIOS it stops responding.

My LG GSA 4176B is on a erratic operation, lately it produces burns that has some READ errors. I used the NERO tool and it did find some bad areas, ALTHOUGH the burning was successful but when trying to read disc the drive can't. I tested it with different types and kinds of CD/DVD disc ditto with other software burners like Alcohol but same results. Also when doing the burn as always nothing is in the background not EVEN the antivirus to prevent intrusions. Any ideas how to check if the drive is or not the culprit. Thanks Are you sure you are finalising these burns ? ?
If not the CD/DVD will be unreadable unless you use something like ISOBuster.Sounds like the drive is going bad.  Do you have another you can put in to test?

Alan <><  To sir patio, when burning it is usually automatic so it has the right lead in and lead out and it is in the automated process and the final word or it says is always: Burn successfully at (ex. 4x628kb/sec) save the job?. Like that so on my part I will think that the burn is good but after testing will I find it with some bad areas.

To sir ale52, I don't have any CD/DVD drives to test but maybe I'll try with my SISTER's PC to install the drive. But if this is your findings, my drive is only 2yrs. old I bought that on 2005. Well i did burn and sometimes erase disc but this does happen only when necessary, is this a way to shorten the life of a rewriter? Should I instead burn only? Thanks Sometimes only 2 years is how long a burner lasts.

On rare occasions this can be caused by a bad ide
RIBBON cable but..............Ok I'll try the ribbon cables first and I hope it works coz I'm on tight budget for Vista. Thank you sir street1 I'll try changing or checking it this weekend after school. 8-) :-? You are welcome your majesty Albatross2007.

I used it once to copy files from my PC to my laptop and it worked fine. I tried doing it again right after and my laptop stopped detecting it. My PC still reads it fine.

If it helps the USB port still works for my portable floppy drive and Xbox controller. And I bought the USB drive because my laptop CD drive had suddenly (randomly) stopped working (still works for DVDs). If anyone has any advice for that too feel free to pitch in.

edit: oh, and my laptop dosen't have an internet connection.

USB drive is:  1GB USB 2.0 Flash MEMORY STICK Key PEN DRIVE

PC system:
Windows XP home edition
version 2002
service pack 2

Fujitsu Siemens computers
Intel (R)
PENTIUM (R) 4 cpu 3.06.ghz
3.06.ghz, 960 mb ram

Laptop:
Windows XP professional
version 2002
Service pack 2

Dell LATITUDE D610
Intel (R) Pentium (R) M
processor 2.0ghz
319MHz, 0.99 GB ramRemove all non essential USB devices safely and power down.
Do a few reboots without connecting anything.
Power down and plug in the flash drive.
Right click My Computer and select Manage. Go to Disk Management and see if it is listed there...nope, nothin'.Are the file SYSTEMS both the same on each machine ? ?
I.E. NTFS or FAT 32 ? ?
You can find this info by right clicking on each drive in My Computer and selecting properties...I think I got it.
I feel stupid, turns out the top was loose and I had to push it in more than on the PC. Suppose that's what I get for buying it for 5euro on eBay.

Thanks for your help, Patio.You're more than Welcome and glad you got it solved...STOP by anytime !

Hey !

I recently bought a new MSI from ldlc.com (MSI GS70 2QD-430XFR Stealth).

I have INSTALLED windows 10 on it and everything seemed fine. The only problem is sometimes when I play or even when I don't, it looks like there is a FREEZE between 0.5 and 1 second and it unfreezes.
There comes the weird part :
When I'm playing CS:GO I still see my character's position move while it freezes (the screen still works), the head doesn't move (mouse seems to not respond) but it still moves my character's head when it unfreezes at the position it should have been if it hadn't froze.

I've got my mouse drivers installed (roccat kone xtd optical) and most of my pc's drivers installed too.

Any ideas how to get rid of those ? It is quite annoying when you like to play.

Yours sincerely,
Florian.Update :
I've uninstalled windows 10 and installed windows 7 ultimate because a friend of mine thought it could be the problem but the issue is still the same. Supposedly it is the mouse and if it is so there is not much I can do about it safe change the mouse but if that is a problem linked to the pc I would like to KNOW to save some money.

Thanks in advance.I'd run memtest86 on this system just to MAKE sure its not a memory issue. Also are you running any overclocks? Also if its still covered by warranty replacement, I'd take advantage of this option as for that cost you a pretty penny and should run correctly. Be sure you dont take any actions that will void your warranty such as any disassembly etcHey ! I'm not overclocking anything on my pc and the mouse should still be under warranty I may play with that.

That's really weird cause I've tested the mouse on another computer and it's still fine and another mouse on the same pc and it's fine too it seems to be only this particular mouse on this particular pc.

When I try to apply an overclock SETTINGS or reset to default settings in msi afterburner my core and memory clock is GOING all the way up to 6750. Can ANYONE help me?



[ATTACHMENT deleted by ADMIN to conserve space]

When I boot a computer of MINE, it shows a blank, black screen on the monitor. The monitor's LIGHT is yellow, not green.

I can see the LED's, power, FANS, and cd drive all start up. I then hear two clicking noises, and nothing else happens.

The 'busy' hard drive light remains on, as long as the computer is running. The computer was exposed to freezing temperatures/condensation over winter.

I feel it is a hard drive related problem, what do you think?I would lean more towards the video card failing...do you have access to another ONE you could try ? ?

Friend of mine BOUGHT a used Chrome BOOK for $90. He doesnt really like the limitations of Chrome OS and was wondering if Linux or Windows 7 could install to it or if Google made these unable to jailbreak out of the Chrome OS?

I did a quick google search and found some info that suggests that some can upgrade and others can brick. Was wondering if anyone here has had success with dumping Chrome OS and going with Windows or Linux on a HP Chrome Book?

http://www.digitaltrends.com/computing/how-to-install-windows-chromebook/


He has this model and 16GB storage I think would be too tight for Windows 7, and trying to get drivers for XP or Vista to run on this would probably be a nightmare to try to find. Thinking Linux would be perfect since most distros these days are only around 4GB to 8GB or so.  http://www.amazon.com/HP-Chromebook-11-1101-White-Blue/dp/B00FJXVRM8Given that it has an ARM CPU, WIndows is totally out of the question.

Linux however tends to work really well on Chromebooks, especially Ubutnu and the process to install it is very well explained such as the guide here: https://www.linux.com/learn/tutorials/795730-how-to-easily-install-ubuntu-on-chromebook-with-crouton.  Doing it this way not only leaves ChromeOS totally intact, it also allows you to switch between ChomeOS and Ubuntu with a simple keyboard shortcut and THEREFORE no rebooting!  More technically it runs Ubuntu in a chroot jail.

From what I've seen it runs really well given the spec of the machine.  The only thing to bear in mind that it is an ARM CPU so Intel only binaries won't run on it so you may find yourself needing to compile some applications from source although this is unlikely to be a big deal, especially with DEVICES such as the Raspberry Pi making ARM binaries for Linux more common.WOW thanks for pointing out the very important fact that the processor is an ARM processor. I didnt even LOOK at the CPU specs and assumed it was x64. Going to let him know that he will probably want to stick with Chrome OS then.

Thats pretty cool that you can run Linux side by side ChromeOS. Going to share this info with him and let him make the choice. I think he too didnt realize it was an ARM processor based ChromeBook when he got it used.

Hello
I own a Hp d6000t media center laptop.
I am an avid flight simulator player.
Anyways, I was playing FSX and all of the sudden my computer freezes, i do the normal things that people do. Control+Alt+Delete, i hit the power button and nothing happened.
I then proceed to disconnect the battery.  After I turn it back on, a black and white error message appears.  The BASIC summary says that Windows shut down because of a power failure or a software error.....I wonder which one it was...anyways, it gave me options on how to proceed.  I chose the Safe mode option because i have never SEEN this message on my computer before.  I select that and after a few seconds it looks like windows is starting, I WISH.  It goes back to the error message.  All of the options are all followed. Safe mode, safe mode w/ networking, safe most w/ command prompt, last best configuration of windows, and START windows normally.  I select them all one at a time and it does the same thing at first.  Then my dad the computer "genius" decides to try to load the recovery disks, it then proceeds to (i think) WIPE my hardrive to factory settings.

After that LONG thing i have two questions,
What should I do!?!?!
if it did wipe my hardrive is there any way to get my stuff back, i was stupid and didnt backup my things but is there any other way?

any help would be greatly appreciated.well...we tryed to do the recovery built in....and it seems to work...well now i am asking how could i get my stuff back from when it got wiped??Your data is probably gone.
A recovery CD normally wipes the HDD and re-installs everything to factory defaults.
Sorry.

Hello, recently i realised that i needed a little bit a better computer to play LEAGUE of legends and minecraft on i was browsing the internet and i found a guy that made a blog about what pc you should build that is not too expensive and can run various amount of games. He came up with these parts:
Intel Core i5-4460 LGA 1150 CPU - BX80646I54460    $187.96    1
ASRock H97M Micro ATX DDR3 1600 Socket 1150 Motherboard    $78.85    1
EVGA GeForce GTX 970 ACX 2.0 4GB GDDR5 256bit, DVI-I, DVI-D, HDMI, DP SLI Ready Graphics Card 04G-P4-2972-KR    $324.99    1
Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB Kit (4GBx2) DDR3 1600 (PC3-12800) 240-Pin UDIMM Memory BLS2KIT4G3D1609DS1S00/BLS2CP4G3D1609DS1S00    $43.83    1
Seagate 1TB Desktop HDD SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive (ST1000DM003)    $50.97    1
VIVO ATX Mid Tower Computer Gaming PC Case / Black Desktop Shell / 4 Fan Mounts, USB 3.0 PORT (CASE-V01)    $26.99    1
Corsair Builder Series CX 600 Watt ATX/EPS  80 PLUS (CX600)    $64.29    1
Samsung SATA 1.5 Gb-s Optical Drive, Black SH-224DB/BEBE    $18.59    1
EGC High-Performance Thermal COMPOUND 4 Grams    $9.99    1
EGC Monster Mouse Pad 14" x 10" (Black)    $11.99    1

My PC Building knowledge is quite close to zero and my budget is around 800-1000$ I live in the Netherlands and not in the US,
I would like to know if these parts are good for a total price around 800$ or if this is a terrible build, i'd really love it if someone could just give me some help/tips.

Thanks alot.

(My goals are to  play League of legends and minecraft on it)
As far as parts list goes.... everything looks good, but I would go with Gigabyte or ASUS motherboard instead of ASRock. I've seen one too many ASRocks run fine at the early stages of the boards life and act up or fail completely prematurely.

The specs you have here are more than adequate for the games you listed.

Hi. I've been having trouble lately, my laptop FREEZES completely and RANDOMLY if (and so far only if) I'm online. I use Windows Vista and Google Chrome. This started last time I updated my free AVG, didn't happen before.
Just in case, I scanned my C disc for viruses and found nothing, but it said that the file Current Tabs from Chrome is corrupted. I don't THINK it has anything to do with my problem, but what happens if I remove it? Can it be done, can it be replaced? Does it replace itself on use?
Can this file fail have anything to do with the fact that I downloaded FIREFOX just to SEE if Chrome was the problem and I imported everything included bookmarks? It froze with Firefox too, but if the problem is on that file and it was imported to it, maybe it can be fixed.
I don't know, I'm lost. I don't think it has anything to do with the laptop's temperature.
Thank you for any help.

My setup:

CPU: Core i3 2120 3.3 Ghz
Motherboard: Asus B75M-A
PSU: Coolermaster GX 2 550W
RAM: 1 x 2 GB and 1 x 4 GB Kingston (not sure about their bus freq etc)
GPU: EVGA GT440 1 GB (Will be upgraded to Asus R9 270 2GB OC in a couple of days)
HDD: 250 GB SATA

I can see the CPU, chassis and GPU fans working for a few seconds, and then they stop and system shuts down.

Sometimes it does hold up for some time and the systems boots up, if it makes to windows, later at any point, it shuts down automatically, with Critical error in EVENT log: "The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first". And when I try to turn it on again, it POWERS off after a few seconds.

I didnt get a chance to copy the content of the error because it always shuts down before I could copy the stuff.

I had this problem with my old power supply, I just bought a new one (Coolermaster one mentioned in the setup) but still have the same issue.

I have tried:

1. Changing power supply (bought the new one)
2. De-seated both RAM modules and Re-seated one by one - Same issue for both
3. De-seated Motherboard and Re-seated after putting a cardboard between the chassis and motherboard (there is one screw which does not completely gets fit on the chassis, but I am PRETTY sure there is no contact between the mobo and the chassis except on the screws)
4. FLIPPED the CMOS battery - The computer booted up and worked for some good 10 minutes before shutting down again

I haven't tried:
1. De-seating the processor or the processor fan (I will not as I am reluctant I might break something)
2. Breadboarding completely


I know there have been many same posts before but each had different causes, I just want to see whats specifically wrong with my setup here.


Thanks in advance
You need to remove your affiliate link...or it'll be removed for you.

I have Dell desktop pro, Windows 2000, each time i go online, within a few seconds, just long enough to start loading a webpage the computer shuts down and restarts suddenly.  I have run my VirusScan both in REGULAR and safe mode and nothing comes up wrong.  My fans are working so i don't think it's overheating.  What else could it be?  thanks for any help.Much more info will be needed here...
What protection programs do you have...have you ran them all ? ?
How old is the machine ? ?
How do you know all the fans are working ? ?
What happened prior to this ? ?
Installed any new hardware/software LATELY ? ?Much more info will be needed here...
What protection programs do you have...have you ran them all ? ?
How old is the machine ? ?
How do you know all the fans are working ? ?
What happened prior to this ? ?
Installed any new hardware/software lately ? ?

......
protection is macafee virus scan, corporate edition w/online updates
the machine is refurbished recently from a school, circa 2002
I can see and feel the fans blowing..(2)...
a friend had downloaded a couple of apps, corel draw, DREAMWEAVER and a upgraded version of ADOBE acrobat and everything worked fine for about 2 weeks time.
tried switching sockets and using different modem cards, but same thing happens regardless.  I know the modem was working because I switched it into my son's computer and I have no problems with it,  thanks

Hello, i recently upgraded my computer with a new heatsink (zalman 120mm) and with artic silver 5 thermal paste for the heatsink, and a new graphics card (8800gts) and after i installed both and went to start my computer up, i hear this BEEP and i just shut it off right away because i'm afraid that something may be wrong with the cpu and i don't WANT it to overheat and mess it up.  Could someone help me out, i'm not sure what to do.  I even reinstalled my previous heatsink and it still does it.  Please help me, thanks!Also, when i do turn it on, its a really loud beep, i only had it on for 5 seconds before TURNING it off.Have you had the cover of to see if you have dislodged something,
The cables to the drives the actual motherboard connections, if the ram is dislodged, recheck EVERYTHING, did you make sure you put every thing back correctly.
We need more info on the motherboard, cpu, and manufacturer it will all help us help you.My motherboard is an ASUS p5nsli, i have an intel core 2 duo e6600.  You wouldn't think the new thermal paste has anything to do with it WOULD you? i put it on the cpu in the line the artic silver website said to.  Is it because i didn't put enough on, please help me out some more. Thanks!

i have a question about my dual CORE pentium D. since each core has its own clock of 2.66ghz, and each core has its own cache of 1mb, that would mean that the effective clock would be 5.32ghz and the effective cache would be 2mb, correct? hope someone knows an answer to this.Basically, a dual-core microprocessor performs like two processors, each of which can run its own threads in parallel, independent of the other, and each of which can access system resources independently. However, it's still a [highlight]single microprocessor[/highlight] according to most definitions, which view [highlight]each microprocessor as a single chip[/highlight] that FITS into a single socket.

My understanding is No on the clock speed  but yes on  L2 cache.... << (revised) read this new link
http://www.intel.com/products/processor/pentium_d/index.htm   << open the pdf file on the 800 series chip*

But;  feel free to read this "novel"  of an article and see what you think. It seems to me, it's all about speeding up the processes  between cpu & memory.  Multi-tasking is the multi core theory with huge improvements in the cache*

http://www.devx.com/amd/Article/26686       ( I love google* )thanks. but, if both cores are running at 2.66ghz, thats still pretty much two CPU's.. i can say it is far better than HT tech. hopefully i will be able to OC this CPU to about 3.4 or better with a Tuniq COOLING unit, huge beast of a CPU cooler. i am still debating on what case to buy though. i have plenty of time to debate though, no job as of yet. Quote

i have a question about my dual core pentium D. since each core has its own clock of 2.66ghz, and each core has its own cache of 1mb, [highlight]that would mean that the effective clock would be 5.32ghz and the effective cache would be 2mb, correct[/highlight]? hope someone knows an answer to this.

if both cores are running at 2.66ghz, thats still pretty much two CPU's.. i can say it is far better than HT tech

The 8 series are good overclockers, GX1 had a good link on this . . . 4.1GHz was it?

Free performance boost.

Quote

Free performance boost.

Nothing but air is free...there are some risks involved here.

<snip>

Let me rephrase that then.
If you are careful and take your time and are not too greedy or impatient, it is a free performance boost.
Risky, but rewarding.
There are downsides to everything, and also upsides.

ok a computer I'm working on its an old hp with windows me.

i cant TELL you much more than that because i cant get it to go to windows me

the owner said it had alot of bad sectors on it when she did a disk check.

and it will go pass the splash screen but that about it then it will SAY system file missing or damage.

so i told her that she might as well got a new hdd or better yet a new computer, but i told her i would LOOK into it for her


so what do you guys think.Though not free,  hd's are getting so reasonable these days its really not worth messing with when they start SHOWING signs of failure.... read below for further info... its up to  you .....   with wndws ME it will be in  FAT32  files  not  NTFS

http://hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/42190/



You're best bet to retrieve data on that would be to hook it up as a slave HDD in a working machine with a burner in it.
Replace the HDD and re-install Windows.
You will also have to reload all the drivers and re-install whatever programs she has.
thats what i was thinking patio thanks for comfirming it for me

I have tried to track this problem down on the NET but without success, and should be very grateful for any ADVICE please.
I have a Toshiba laptop and I use an external keyboard and mouse. My home office (and therefore the computer) is in the same room as the gas boiler, and every time the boiler fires up the keyboard stops working and if I am using the mouse unexpected things happen, eg all the captions in the folder of photographs I was working on were no longer displayed, or the email I was reading is deleted, etc
The computer is plugged into a surge protector and I have tried plugging it into a different electric circuit via an extension lead (still on the surge protector) but this makes no difference. The surge protector has been tested and is working.
A friend SUGGESTED that it may be radiated as an electromagnetic transmission, perhaps from an inductive source like the gas valve or igniter and that it might be solved by shielding the boiler in aluminium foil. I have tried this but no success.
At present I turn the boiler off if I want to use the computer but I wondered if anyone else had had this problem.
Any advice would be very gratefully receivedIs this a wireless keyboard ? ?
If so switch channels...the GOOD ones have more than one.No, sorry, I should have mentioned it, the keyboard and mouse plug in to the back of the laptopWell the keyboard would be the cheapest component to replace to SEE if it is the keyboard at fault.
Have you tried the laptop in a different room altogether to see if it still acts up when the boiler comes on ? ?

Hello everyone. Last night, I was CHANGING RAM and whatnot, and I had to completely disassembled my computer. After I put it all back together, even with the ORIGINAL RAM, not the new RAM that I was going to attach, I couldn't get the computer to boot, or something, because I could not see anything on the monitor. The monitor just kept staying at the screen where it said "No Input Signal Available." PLZ please reply here.It's quite possible you jarred the vid card LOOSE installing and swapping your RAM around.
Re-seat the vid card and double check all your connections.
As ALWAYS when working inside the case MAKE sure all power is dis-connected.And you might want to refrain from posting your e-mail.  Unless you like spam. Quote

It's quite possible you jarred the vid card loose installing and swapping your RAM around.
Re-seat the vid card and double check all your connections.
As always when working inside the case make sure all power is dis-connected.

Hi all. I've been looking at motherboards for upgrades again and as per usual I've stuck with my past favorite Asus. But in recent years my personal experience with some of their boards has been rather poor. Looking at reviews for newer boards yields some interesting feed back as well; Apparently I am not alone in my experiences.

I know that every company has problem products but with Asus it's getting too consistent.

So does any one know of good rated brands? Have personal favorites that they'd recommend?Kinda suprised you have had issues with ASUS...last 1 i had a problem with was over 5 years ago...and i do quite a few BUILDS...

As a 2nd choice however i would recommend you try out GigaByte.I know right! I feel like a disillusioned disciple of some cultist religion. My trusty M2N4 SLI is right beside me (best board I've ever had), unfortunately retired now due to old age. (Still works, just out of date).

But it was a pretty sad story after that. The M3 model was the worst board I've ever had, complete with miss information with specs, and general misbehavior (half of which I forget now). M5 Model is just meh, little irritating flaws here and there. (Few SATA ports, Fan control issues, etc. At least it's stable though.)


Being a little bit more wary this time I checked the reviews which for some boards was scrapping in at a measly 50% approval rating.I'm curious now...which boards ahd a 50% scrapping out rate ? ?
Cause now i'm confused.Of interest:

Best and worst motherboards
- from TOM's Hardware, Dec 2011
Quote

The out of the box failure rate is a pretty consistent 2% among all the top brands. There was a recent study ...
The vast majority of 'failures' is the end user with other faulty components

I'm curious now...which boards ahd a 50% scrapping out rate ? ?
Cause now i'm confused.

Quote from: Geek-9pm on August 25, 2015, 03:24:55 PM

Of interest:

Best and worst motherboards
- from Tom's Hardware, Dec 2011Price does not insure quality.  Or maybe it does. 

Far from a definitive answer...or list i should say.

Hi!

I have a desktop PC which is connected to my cable modem.

I am interested in purchasing a laptop (equipped with wireless CAPABILITY) and was wondering if anyone knew what I WOULD have to do to get wireless internet access on my laptop from my cable modem connected to my desktop.  Would i have to purchase a Wireless BROADBAND Router? Would this even work? I am not sure if I should buy the laptop and the wireless router only to find out that I cannot access the internet wirelessly through my cable modem at home.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks! Quote

Hi!

I have a desktop PC which is connected to my cable modem.

I am interested in purchasing a laptop (equipped with wireless capability) and was wondering if anyone knew what I would have to do to get wireless internet access on my laptop from my cable modem connected to my desktop.  Would i have to purchase a Wireless Broadband Router? Would this even work? I am not sure if I should buy the laptop and the wireless router only to find out that I cannot access the internet wirelessly through my cable modem at home.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

I tried to change the color a little on my monitor and clicked on a resolution on the list. Now the monitor only shows "unknown MODE" I cannot get it to do anything. I then REPLACED the monitor with another one I have. It would show an image, but it was overlapped or multiple screens all reduced to one band across the middle. How do I reset the monitor settings or talk to the monitor that says "unknown mode"?

tomwe NEED to know what the monitor manufacturer and SPECIFICATION?

and more on the GRAPHICS card and the computer components?

I'm having troubles getting my machine to boot, so I thought id give these boards a shot before I start buying new pieces to test.

For the past few weeks I've been having issues on bootups and restarts.  Whenever I booted up fresh my pc would freeze at the bios screen, stopping where it recognizes my Processor.  For the past few weeks I've simply hit reset on my PC and it then proceeds to boot up normally.  So today I decided to get to the root of the problem and starting messing around.  I am running dual channel ram, tested both sticks by themselves and they both worked fine.  I did the boot up + reset to get my machine to boot.  

Then I decided to reset my bios to DEFAULT, now im STUCK on the bios screen at bootup, no amount of restarting will get it to get past the processor recognition.  I also can't get into my bios or boot menu at all.  My pc is completely frozen at the bios version screen.  Any ideas?Well basically tore my machine apart, started it up barebone and it worked.  Just put everything back together its doing the same old thing of NEEDING the RESTART to get it to boot.  /confusedWell basically tore my machine apart, started it up barebone and it worked.

Well,at that point you add one thing at a TIME until you get to the
problem. Process of elimination.

I'm not sure what happened. Everything was fine and then I discovered that my cd/dvd & dvd DRIVE had disappeared from my computer. I went into control panel and checked my hardware devices. It appears that there is a problem with the drivers for theses two drive and also my SM bus controller. It states that the drivers are either missing or corrupt. Since I can't use the cd from Dell to install my drivers, I TRIED downloading them from Dell. The first one I tried was NEC-3650A_FW108C ...when I followed the instruction this is the message I get "Target NEC-NC-30650A is not found correctly." When I tried to install the driver for the other drive I get this message "No device found" I really need help!you could always try the system restore for a quick possible fix, if not you will need to see if it is recognised in your bios. If it is, your on the right track, you just need to find the right drivers.Can we have a bit more info about the drives?  What info does Device Manager give you about the drives (particularly, the names)?  Perhaps you're not downloading the correct drivers.  Also, have you checked the IDE cables to make sure they're seated properly?

You could try opening up Device Manager, locating the drivers in question, and then UNINSTALLING them.  When you reboot, let the computer reinstall them and see if it fixes your problem.Why can't you use the Dell CD to do this ? ?
You are missing some motherboard drivers here and they will need to be re-installed for that machine to operate properly.Ok, I tried to restore to an earlier date and it can't restore.  I also uninstalled the hardware in the device manager and when I restart the computer it doesn't correct the problem.  The drives are still not showing up in my computer and the manager says that there is a problem with the drivers. These are the devices that I'm having problems with:  Device Description
PHILIPS DVD-ROM DROM6316 and Device Description
_NEC DVD+-RW ND-3650A.

The reason that I can't use the Dell cd is because neither of my optical drives are working.
patio may be right about the motherboard drivers.  Go to the Dell driver page and enter your service tag.  When it takes you to the download page, download the Chipset Driver.  Then go down to Removable Media Storage Devices - Firmware and locate your devices and download the CORRESPONDING drivers.  There are different ones for different speeds, so make sure you get the ones that match your drive speeds (16x, 24x, 48x, etc.).

Install the chipset first.  If that doesn't work, then try the device drivers.  It also wouldn't be a bad idea to try the Dell forums if you're still having trouble.  There are some people there who are very knowledgeable when it comes to DELLS.

Ok, i have a computer that i am attempting to fix, i am tackling each problem as it presents itself, but for right now it is this: When i turn on the computer it runs for about 10 seconds, then shutsoff, and as it does the motherboard reads 2d. Looking around i found that 2d means;
1. Initialize double-byte language font (optional).

2. Put information ONSCREEN display, including award title, CPU type, CPU speed, and full screen logo.
http://www.abit-usa.com/images/AWARD_and_uGuru_POST_code.pdf <---which i found there.  All i can find on google is more lists with the error code on them, so i was wondering if anyone KNEW how to do what its asking, and put it in fairly simply TERMS.  Thanks in advance, if you need any more specs on the comp just ask.

So just today these black bars appeared around both my monitors. I have an asus strix gtx 970. The monitors are set to their native resolution. Does ANYONE know any possible fixes for this?

I've tried:

- Rolling back my graphics driver then reupdating it

- Scaling to full screen in the Nvidia settings

Although the bars are not large I can't seem to not notice them and it irritates me.


Has it always been this way?
A normal screen will have about a 1 or 2mm band around the image.
Does your monitor have an adjustment for vertical size and Horizontal size?
What kind of monitor?

No, only the last few days.

Okay.

What do you mean?

I have a vg248qe and a S20C300BL. Quote from: Geek-9pm on August 22, 2015, 11:27:18 PM

Has it always been this way?
A normal screen will have about a 1 or 2mm band around the image.
Does your monitor have an adjustment for vertical size and Horizontal size?
What kind of monitor?

Nvidia’s CEO, Jen-Hsun Huang, hasn’t directly responded to the class-action lawsuit allegations, but he has written a blog post responding to the larger situation. Said post isn’t likely to win many converts to Nvidia’s way of thinking, since Huang refers to the memory issue as a “feature,” noting that “Instead of being excited that we invented a way to increase memory of the GTX 970 from 3GB to 4GB, some were disappointed that we didn’t better describe the segmented nature of the architecture for that last 1GB of memory.”

So about TWO days ago my family's computer began acting up. When I try to turn it on it will show nothing on the screen and the mouse and keyboard will have no lights on, then after about 5-10 seconds all the fans will begin to spin at high speed until I turn the computer off manually. The first time I turned it on after the initial failure I left it on a while to see if anything would happen. Eventually after about 2 minutes the power light turned red and the computer began to beep. I could not get this to happen again after that. I have tried TAKING the CMOS battery out, then putting it back in, still did not work. I tried taking out all but one stick of ram for each of the 4 sticks (4 1gb sticks) then turning it on. I also tried turning it on with nothing at all connected to the computer. Nothing has WORKED. My only guess to why this is all happening is because we've had about 3-4 power outages in the last week. The computer is not hooked up to a surge protector. We have had power outages before and the computer has still worked but MAYBE this time it just got fried or something. The computer is an HP Compaq DC7900.I'd start with swapping out power supply with a known good one of adequate wattage rating. Unless your main BOARD took a lightning hit, this fixes this problem 99% of the time. Sounds like power supply is damaged and so you have some voltages, but not all of them at correct level.

Today my CNPS7000 CPU cooler arrived. I REMOVED the stock heatsink and installed it.

I turn my PC back on after being turned off for about 5 minutes.. and my monitor tells me that there is no signal coming from my PC. Luckily I have an onboard intergrated gpu, so i switched to that and to my surprise everything ran fine.

But after I installed the drivers for the onboard gpu, my Audio stopped working. In the "Sounds and Audio devices properties", in the control panel it now reads "no audio device". I re-installed the drivers and the problem persists. I try to install the program and i get an error "driver not found! reboot ur system". The reboot obviously does nothing.

So now ive lost my graphics card and my audio and all i did was take my cpu out of its socket and then put it back in..

The only theory that i have is that well.. i heard that if U touch a computer component without having an "anti-static" strap, u can ruin the device only by touching it.
Well, i did not have the so CALLED strap, but i touched the cpu about 50 times while installing it, and it runs fine. im not even sure that i touched the graphics card..

So, im completely stomped.

PC specs:
Asus P4S800-MX
Geforece FX 5200
SiS 661FX (onboard VGA)
SoundMAX (onboard Audio)
1024 MB DDR-400 (detected as 512MB the first boot)
Pentium 4 prescott 3.0Ghz 478

P.S. This wasnt the first PC i worked on today. I completely dismantalled another PC and put it back together and it runs fine now. So this is even more eratating.

Thnx!"all i did was take my cpu out of its socket and then put it back in.. "  Why did you remove the CPU if all you were replacing was the cooling FAN?  Did you reseat the CPU properly?

Alan <><   Quote

"all i did was take my cpu out of its socket and then put it back in.. "  Why did you remove the CPU if all you were replacing was the cooling fan?  Did you reseat the CPU properly?

Alan <><  

Problems began arising when I got my NEW videocard. An ATI RADEON 9550.


Recently, I put in an ADDITIONAL 512mbs of RAM. I believe I SEATED it wrong because my computer IMMEDIATELY shut off. I reseat the RAM and it appeared that the monitor quit responding. The LED for the power doesn't turn green anymore, but oddly enough the reset button LED comes on and the monitor still won't DISPLAY anything.

I tried replacing my PSU, that didn't do anything, I took out the new stick of RAM and that didn't help either.

Any help is appreciated. =]
If you seated it with the computer on....Bad News.

Is that what happened?
Nope I seated it with it off.You may need to reset your BIOS to defaults read the below link for instructions.

http://www.dewassoc.com/support/bios/bios_password.htm

I've been WONDERING, since the xbox uses the same archecture as the PC, and since I have an old PC sitting around, how hard would it be to make it think it were an xbox? I've heard that you can't simply use a regular dvd-rom drive because the xbox reads the disc BACKWARDS, but I also know that the xbox uses a standard IDE bus and a custom power port. I'm pretty sure I could write a bootloader to run the xbox dashboard and firmware so that it could be tricked into being an xbox, HOWEVER, wouldn't it detect that My hard drive is a 20GB standard drive instead of an xbox drive? If so would I need to get an xbox hard drive too? And yet another question - the motherboard and cpu. Would it detect that I have an ATX motherboard and a Pentium III 800MHz? Instead of a custom mobo and a celeron 733. I have exactly 64MB of RAM so I don't expect any problems from that end which is good. And yet another question - how would I plug in the controller? Are there adapters that I can buy for that? And what if I ever want to use a memory card? I suspect that the controller for the xbox is on an usb bus, and PROBABLY the memory also. And could I use my ethernet port to transfer files to and from my computer? I'm not interested in hacking the 'xbox' or copying games or anything. Just another gaming console made from a useless PC. And would the graphics card even be compatible with the xbox firmware? Thanks in advance ;-)Wow, nice project.
I don't think it would work though.
However, if you can write the bootloader, I guess you could trick the "Xbox" into using a standard drive,motherboard and P-3.
The controller interface is just a modified USB port.
I'm not sure about anything else but I'll keep watching, this is a really interesting project whether it works or not.I would love to see the results if you give this  a try!!  What a neat project,  good luck if you try it!

Ok, first thing I'll need to do is get my hands on an xbox dashboard file. Anyone know where I can get my hands on one? And is there a way I can hack my 'xbox' into using my pc controller? I'll need at least that. I'll continue googling for some results... once again, thanks in advanced.The dash files are found at a place commonly know as "the usual places".  Here [highlight]http://xbox-scene.com/articles/xbins.php [/highlight] is a tutorial on how to get those.

Because the xbox is mostly firmware and BIOS based I don't think you'll be able to turn a regular PC into one.  However, there are many people that have upgraded the CPU in xbox's to faster PIII's and installed more RAM.  If you happen to find any info on doing this let me know, seeing as how I am probably wrong.

Going the opposite direction is a much different story, though.  Turning an xbox into a PC is pretty easy.

EDIT: Using a Keyboard and Mouse on the Xbox is easy.  You can either buy a little dongle thing that will do it or just wire a USB cable right into the controller port on the inside.  The controller port is a USB port in a different shape pretty much...Ok, I'll try it tonight. It says that it's only homebrew software. Will I be able to at least download unleashX? Actually that woud probably be a better choice than a cold-boot xbox because the cold-boot will not work with any games because of the dvd-rom drive. One more thing, is there anything on exactly how to MOD a standard DVD drive to run in 'xbox-mode'?
I have had some significant breakthroughs in the project! Unfortunately, the work has already been done for me. :-( See Cxbx. I have already ported XBMC to a windows archetecture. Would it be legal if I were to release such on the internet???

hey I just recently got this problem, my keyboard stops working as soon as windows boots up to the login screen, however it does work before that in RECOVERY CONSOLE.

I just recently uninstalled a TRIAL for mcafree antivirus because I didn't need it, so I thought that might be the cause. Is there anything I can do to figure out how to fix this or should I try another keyboard?Ok so can you click your admin account, if so and you're in Windows try disconnecting your keyboard and reconnect again. If not working try another board before restarting if the new keyboard was detected the old is the culprit if not REBOOT with the new one and try until you're in Windows again. If still not CHECK the bios see if it sees the keyboard. I hope this helps 8-) :-? i had that issue once and i had to reinstall me generic usb driversGet a PS2 keyboard and watch your troubles disappear...

recently i recieved a Sound blaster audigy EAX HD. I went into my motherboards BIOS and disabled motherboard sound. Rebooted my COMPUTER and the computer will boot up but my monitors wont be displaying anything. I have no idea what the problem might be.

here are my specs

AMD 3200+
Gigabyte K8U 939 mobo
Radeon X1600 512mb video
120gb sata hd
2gb of ram

any suggestions?You don't get any video at all?
Sure you disabled onboard sound, and not, say, onboard video?
Does the monitor display anything at all?Could you possibly have disrupted the proper seating of your video card in it's slot when you installed your sound card?  Did you disconnect your monitor(s) when you installed the video card?  Have you checked all your CABLE connections?Yes.. i checked everything. I'm in a Networking class, and have a troubleshooting skill set. Those are the first things i looked atI gather your video adapter is an AGP or PCI Express video card.  Right?  Does your computer also have onboard video capability?  Is it possible you changed something in the BIOS AFFECTING video?Remove the sound card and see if it boots.

Alan <><  As i said before, there is no onboard video and yes when i remove the sound card it works fine. Found out the other day that this sound card has 3 pieces to it, and without the other TWO it doesnt work.Yep...pieces parts can be important.

What is the BEST way to hook up a new tablet pc to my high speed internet? I CURRENTLY have  an Hp desktop, i don't want to disconnect my ethernet cable from the BACK of my Hp every time i want to communicate with my tablet. Thanks, BobSo, your desktop computer is normally connected to a broadband modem, right?  A wireless router would allow you to use both computers on the Internet at the same time and give you wireless CAPABILITY for the tablet PC.  I have this:  D-Link DWL-922 IEEE 802.3/3u, IEEE 802.11b/g Wireless G Kit,Wireless Router DI-524&USB Adapter DWL-G122 - Retail.  However, as some of the reviews at newegg.com say, the wireless adapter, the DWL-G122, does not have good range.  So, if your tablet is going to usually be, say, in another room, you should probably have a better wireless adpater for your laptop.  For more wireless routers sold by newegg.com (only ships to U.S. and Puerto Rico), see Wireless RoutersI don't necessarily need for it to be a wireless setup. What are my options,best , way to set up if it is not wireless? I don't need to use them at the same time, just need to communicate with the tablet twice a day.    bobWell, again, the router is ONE option, whether you're connecting by wire or wirelessly.  With a router, either computer can access the Internet without the other computer being on.

Another option for two computers is to set up Internet Connection Sharing (ICS), using a Category 5 crossover cable to connect the tablet PC to your desktop computer, which would be the host computer and which must be turned on in order for the tablet PC to have an Internet connection.  Here's a good reference: http://www.annoyances.org/exec/show/ics_xp

My original 5 year old computer uses Windows XP, my FIRST self-build now has Linux Kubuntu INSTALLED. I would like to try a MAC Operating SYSTEM on my next effort but understand that MAC MACHINES use some propriety hardware. Can anyone advise what these hardware differences are and if it's feasible to build your own MACHINE to run say, MAC OSX 10.4.6 TIGER ? :-/Check this out...

http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=173639

Alan <><

I have an Intel Celeron Processor at 2.0 GHz and 256mb of ram and A Geforce 5500 Fx Card

Ok I was wandering what most should i do to make sims2 run smooth i have it i can run it but when am downtown or something there are really long LOAD times and framerate issues i have never upgraded a pc before tell i got this Gpu

so what should i do Get More meomory? A better Gpu? or just a new PC i really dont plan on running much more then this game thanx in advancedWell, according to the system requirements, you seem to barely MEET the minimum requirements.  That should be enough, but it wouldn't hurt to add a bit more RAM.  The problem might lie with your video card.  Your particular card doesn't appear to be SUPPORTED, so you might want to upgrade to a slightly better model.  This is just how it looks to me anyway.  Someone else might have a better suggestion.

You could always reduce the resolution of your game.  Oh, and make sure you have the latest drivers for your video card.  That could make a difference.A new GPU WOULD give you the best boost, or a RAM upgrade.
RAM is cheaper and will help with ANYTHING you do, GPU is more expensive but will help more with games.

I have a Logitech Optical mouse (not wireless). In MS Word at page BREAKS, when I scroll with the mouse wheel, the last sentence of the page will keep repeating and I can't scroll back up. I have to click on the side-bar then go back into the document to continue. It doesn't do it every time and I have CHANGED drivers and I am USING a new mouse....?Any ideas? ThanksYou'll need to post a bit more info than that.
What OS are you using?
Is this mouse USB or PS/2?
If USB, have you tried a PS/2 mouse?  Have you tried any other mouse at all to see if it gets the same results?
Does this HAPPEN with any other programs?
What KIND of protection do you have?

Posting as much info as possible makes it a lot easier for everyone to help you out. Quote

You'll need to post a bit more info than that.
What OS are you using?
Is this mouse USB or PS/2?
If USB, have you tried a PS/2 mouse?  Have you tried any other mouse at all to see if it gets the same results?
Does this happen with any other programs?
What kind of protection do you have?

Posting as much info as possible makes it a lot easier for everyone to help you out.

I swear, this is the freakiest thing I've ever seen.

There were these tiny ants crawling around a table with our computers in a certain classroom. We lifted up the printer and SAW a few dozen. A few more kept coming out of the printer, so we tried to find a way to kill them. I said "Well, if we could get inside the printer, we could get them. For example, this is a door..." I open it...

Thousands of ants came swarming out of the printer's backside, and the whole class fell into a chaos of firing Mr. Clean, wiping up ants with paper towels and running away screaming. I'm still in the class. We've got it mostly cleaned up, but I can't shake the feeling that I've covered with little crawling bugs...Umm . . . wow.
Wish my SCHOOL was that exciting, haha.
Serious chortles at that.
The BEST we've had is a squirrel in our science lab racing around.I saw them nest in the bottom of a tower computer case once.   I guess the found it warm and still, so they moved in.
Had hundreds of little white eggs.

Use a vacuum on them.   Works great.You needd a bigger vacuum for these:



 
Anyone had problems with thrips in their LCDs?
I hear it's a common problem but I've yet to see it first hand. Quote

You needd a bigger vacuum for these:

I found an old VCR in my grandparents house and i asked if i could take it apart (love doing that to old machines) and when i opened the cover, several cockroaches came out, climbing all over me. i was screaming, lol. Those things are NASTY!!!

i'm WIPING a hard DRIVE clean with dban. after this is done what is my next step to install windows xp again? USE the dell cd with the os on it (XP)? will setup boot from this cd? do i have to format the hard drive in any way to prepare it for windows?
No you don't need to reformat....the Dell CD should be bootable.
Set CDROM as your first boot device in the BIOS. Quote

i'm wiping a hard drive clean with dban. after this is done what is my next step to install windows xp again? use the dell cd with the os on it (XP)? will setup boot from this cd? do i have to format the hard drive in any way to prepare it for windows?

Hi again. I've got an irritating problem annoyance with fan speed and I've finally noticed what the problem is; My motherboard bases the fan speed on the motherboard TEMPERATURES. The problem with this is that the minimum settable temperature to begin INCREASING fan speed is 40°C, which is the highest my mobo will ever get to. So I have the option of fans constantly set at 40% or 100%. I tried toying about with Speedfan but unfortunately it seems that my motherboard does not allow for external influence... A case of can't do wont do.

So I'm left with looking for a suitable fan controller. One which can be programmed to adjust the fan speeds based on CPU temperature, preferably one which Speedfan can interface with. Unless anyone has any ideas as to how to get around a poorly programmed BIOS.

I have found a few promising items but some look a little flaky:
http://geoffg.net/fancontroller.html
http://www.velocityreviews.com/articles/sunbeam-theta-usb-fan-controller.37/
http://koolance.com/tms-205-software-thermal-interface-controller


[Btw, my computer doesn't need EXTRA air flow it would just be nice for the expensive fans I've bought to work nicely]

[Also FIY for those who remember, the mouse problem is on hold. I will get back to it]I had a system that needed extra cooling other than the CPU and wanted it to trigger to spin fans only when needing to cool the system so that it wasnt full bore 80mm fans going constantly. I ended up getting a hardware fan controller with temp alarm that fit into the 5.25" bay and it allowed you to program the set points of at what temp C or F to turn the fans on. I believe it also had a scale such as 50% fan speed at a certain temp and then 100% fan speed at another temp. But I just programmed it to kick on when it got too WARM in specific areas of the internal computer components. It had 2 thermocouples that I ended up using a drop of thermal compound and tape to attach them to internal case temp as well as HDD temp of some early 10k RPM SATA HDD's that ran hot. It was able to control 2 channels based on 2 thermocouple sensors.

The one I had was similar to this one, but mine had 2 thermocouples that I was able to place at key areas of thermal concern. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811992005

This isnt a software means of temp control, but wanted to share this option as for I used this hardware option with a server years ago and it worked well.Sorry Dave, I just realised that I forgot to reply.

This looks like it might just do the job, thanksGlad this might be a solution for you and no problem with delay getting back about this.

I received some audio files that I need to listen to but cannot open. They have a STRANGE file extension and no one seems to be able to give me any HELP. I cannot replace the files, and have used every CONVERTER possible to play them. The best I could do was to see the sine wave on the media player moving, so I know the sound was coming through but I could not hear anything.

The files all have similar names. Here is one of them: Qext16144357056_05_22_2013_08-326_04470_ohlewapp1030(40520190).WAV.

Most the the digits are DATES and such, but the ohlewapp is something I've never seen. I will even send the files to somone if they can convert them for me. I am desperate.

Thanks for any help. What is the file extensions ? /
Because if they were wav's they sholda worked...

Hi,

I recently bought a HP Stream 14-z002na 2GB 32GB.  I love the look and physical size of it but I am really struggling with the lack of disk space.  I only need it for Uni work, iTunes and browsing so wanted to have Microsoft Office and itunes installed but that's all.  Even just with those it is saying that I have no space to install updates, my printer program, ETC.  My iTunes collection (and all other media) is installed on a NAS drive so there are no big media files on the laptop itself.  It said on the description of the laptop to use cloud storage but can that be used for downloading programs?  Sorry about my lack of knowledge, I just don't understand how to use this small a hard drive!

I just upgraded to Windows 10 today after resetting the laptop to free up some space but already the drive says there is only 4.75gb free of 22.5gb and I have only installed AVG free so far.  How do I increase the space or is it possible to put in a new hard drive?  I have been using a 32gb USB flash drive to store journals, etc that I DOWNLOAD but can't use it to install programs which is my main problem.

Sorry again if I'm being really ignorant here, hopefully someone can point me in the right direction!

Thank you for your time,
KatieOne issue with disk space on an upgraded system is that Windows saves your old installation in a folder called Windows.old so that you can go back to that version should you wish to.  Unfortunately, that takes up some of your storage space.  If you have decided already that you like Win 10 and have no desire to return to your previous OS you could run Disk Cleanup which will delete the Windows.old folder and recover that disk space.

32GB is pretty small to begin with, I'm not FAMILIAR with the HP Stream but it may also have a recovery partition that is taking up a chunk of your 32GB storage as well.  If you want to get creative, you could use an external drive along with free software such as Macrium Reflect to make a system image of your current drive then delete that recovery partition and then extend your C: drive into that recovered space.

If you decide you want to do anything that I've suggested, post back and ask questions about how to do it.

Edit: I did some reading about the HP Stream and it appears that the recovery partition takes up 7GB of your storage but it cannot be deleted.  Sorry.You can't put in a hard drive, because the HP Stream doesn't actually have a removable disk drive that you can upgrade; the storage is actually some chips that are soldered on the motherboard. (For the technically minded, it's integrated eMMC flash memory) Its upgrade potential is very limited. Having said that, it has some used space that a technically adept person could free up: 1. Delete the recovery partition using a tool called Parted, 2. The Windows 10 upgrade has probably preserved the original Windows 8.1 installation in case you want to go back; this could be deleted as well. You might be able to free up 10 GB or more, I don't know exactly how much. I have to say that if you want a capacious laptop with the capacity to GROW with you, like the Irish farmer said to the tourist "I wouldn't start from here".
Before deleting the recovery partition, back it up to a pen drive!

Hi,

Thanks for all your suggestions. I'm happy to get a hard drive/pen drive to free up space but would be great to have your help.
Thanks again,
KatieAs far as I can tell that machine has a MicroSD card slot on the left hand side, you could therefore get a MicroSD card to expand the capacity - This would be a bit easier to transport in the machine than a USB flash drive as it can be left in all the time whereas you'd have to unplug a USB flash drive to put the laptop in a bag.Thanks, I've been using a really small 32gn USB to store any downloads, movies I want to watch, etc and it's only 6gb full. The problem is trying to install programs like AVG, Microsoft Office, iTunes, etc as I can't seem to install them onto the external drives and the C drive just isn't big enough to do that.The OP said he has a NAS drive.
A network drive can be used for some types of programs. For example, an office suite like MS office  called Libre Office has a portable version that can reside on an external drive. And it is free. OK, it is also slow. But it works.
LibreOffice Portable
Quote

full-featured office suite
LibreOffice Portable is a full-featured office suite -- including a word PROCESSOR, spreadsheet, presentation tool, drawing package and database -- packaged as a portable app, so you can take all your documents and everything you need to work with them wherever you go.

Recently, had too replace our Modem cause, it would no longer connect all the time and was too old.  I have a cable that runs from the New Modem too the Router Internet Port and one from the PC's to the computer.  I put in all the SETTINGS that I remember it having and won't forward the connection too it.  D-Link DIR-628Modem------------Router-----------------PC.Who REPLACED the modem?
 Do you know the modem works?
Did you consult your local service provider?
Can you get internet by GOING direct from Modem to PC?

Some service providers set the modem to look for the user's MAC .

Quote

A media access control address (MAC address) is a unique identifier ASSIGNED to network interfaces for communications on the physical network SEGMENT. MAC addresses are used as a network address for most IEEE 802 network technologies, including Ethernet

My pc is self BUILT a few years old my husband took out the extra ram from his pc to PUT in mine. At first it would try to turn on and fail immediately so we took out the extra ram hoping to solve the problem but now it only boots up to the the black screen with a blinking underscore. It wont let me type, enter bios or safe mode. Putting in my WINDOWS disc also did nothing please help Im out of ideas! Im not 100% on all my specs anymore because its been awhile and ive CHANGED some stuff out but i know im on 64 BIT windows 7. If you need to know any other specs to help please ask and ill see if i can find them. Please help Im all out of options.

G'day,
I'm looking to upgrade my old 200W power supply to maybe a 400-500W unit, problem is my MAIN board is an old ASUS P55T2P4 and the power plug that connects to it is 12 pin and not 24 like todays units.
I live in australia and if someone could help me find a new unit (if they exsist) I would much appreciate it.
I already tried ebay with no luck - all 24 pin

Thanks
Regards MattYou might be able to get some assistance here:

http://support.asus.com/techserv/techserv.aspx?SLanguage=en-us

There is an ASUS forum at this Web site.  

Another good site for info on your motherboard is here:

http://www.tomshardware.com/2000/07/25/oldie_tuning/

But i did not see anything on the PSU as i skimmed through it.

Take it easy!
Quote

G'day,
I'm looking to upgrade my old 200W power supply to maybe a 400-500W unit, problem is my main board is an old ASUS P55T2P4 and the power plug that connects to it is 12 pin and not 24 like todays units.
I live in australia and if someone could help me find a new unit (if they exsist) I would much appreciate it.
I already tried ebay with no luck - all 24 pin

Thanks
Regards Matt

as a note, you may want to consider a new computer.. most systems run at about 2.0ghz these days, which is 2000mhz, mine is currently running at 2666mhz, however, [highlight]GX1_Man here in the forums runs an antique dell for his computer, so you might be fine with 500mhz.[/highlight].

I’m looking for help to resolve an ESD issue with my home computer and I hoping some here will provide some guidance to resolve my issue.

I’ve had two (2) ESD events the past ~4 months that have “Fried my Motherboard” in both instances and I’m trying to resolve why this is occurring from an ESD on the EXTERNAL portion of my case.   If it had occurred with me being inside the case, well that would be quite understandable.

I built a new computer this past November and 3 weeks later I reached over to push the button to close my DVD drive tray and I felt a static shock which caused my computer to power off.  I assumed the ESD had caused a digital fault but I was not able to get the computer to reboot after un-connecting/reconnecting the power cord from the back of the computer.  The front of the DVD drive appears to be hard plastic (not metal).

 I live in a dry climate and RH has been very low here.  My PC is connected via a Belkin 1100VA USB which is connected to a verified Grounded outlet.

I removed the motherboard and set it up outside the case with MINIMAL components and switched out all the various components including a new Power supply.  However, the computer would only power on for 3 or 4 seconds and then shutdown.

I did a close inspection of all components, wiring and connections but could not FIND any issues.  The off-sets for the motherboard to the case have been checked and verified to be correct.

I replaced the motherboard and all was just fine for about 3 months when I was reaching to touch the front of the DVD drive and I felt a static spark and again the computer powered off and I repeated the troubleshooting steps as I did the first time.  It REACTED the very same…power on for 3-4 seconds and then power off.

I decided to do another thorough inspection of all components and this time I noticed that the Ribbon Cable connected to the DVD drive and motherboard had a small bare wire exposed on Pin 39 which is the Led driver.  Also, on there was a small area of exposed wire on pin 1 or 2. The picture does not show it but I looked to see where the bare wire would hit and it looks as though the cable gets pushed up toward the top of the DVD Drive and actually folds back on top of it and the exposed wire hits the metal case of the DVD.
 (see image below)

With the ESD event(s) I've had could this introduce a problem to the mobo? This exposed wire alone might not cause a problem with the DVD operation but I'm wondering if with the ESD introduced whether it could fry something (?chipset)?) on the mobo as it goes to the mobo header.  

I have just completed installing a new motherboard and all is fine for now but I’m very uncomfortable in not knowing whether I’ve found the real culprit in my ESD issue.

I know it makes no sense that you could ruin a motherboard from an external ESD event unless there is something   not grounded.

I have had all the grounding checked from the outlet to the computer and all is fine.  I had the power supply and everything on the computer and all shows to be grounded. I have also replaced the PC Power & Cooling 610 Silencer PS with a Antec Neo 550 (the PCP&C 610 checks out to be operating ok)
I’ve installed a 3M Velostat 4’x8’ electrically conductive mat in front of my desk and computer in hopes of providing some ESD protection.

 I would really appreciate any comments/suggestions for resolving this issue. Do you think it was caused by the Ribbon Cable or something else?


http://[URL=http://imageshack.us][IMG]http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/1984/ribboncabletodvddrivedy4.jpg[/IMG][/url]Well, you've replaced two motherboards and a power supply, but you're still using a flawed cable.  Why haven't you replaced that cable?  I don't know whether it's related to your problem but it's a small, inexpensive component.  So, why not replace it? Quote

Well, you've replaced two motherboards and a power supply, but you're still using a flawed cable.  Why haven't you replaced that cable?  I don't know whether it's related to your problem but it's a small, inexpensive component.  So, why not replace it?

I'm also inclined to think you found the culprit.  By the way, do you know what caused bad condition of that cable?  To see a cable in that condition seems quite unusual.