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Can anybody tell me how to remove my hard drive
from this laptop.............SONY VAIO VGN-S460

Mine CRASHED so i'm trying to replace it.

I need to get this fixed A.S.A.P!!

Thanks A Million!!

RobSearch this page to download the Service Manual for your laptop:

http://www.7manuals.com/Vaio2.htm

It's the 12TH Service Manual from the bottom of that page...but double-check just to make sure.

The cost is about $6.00 (USD) and you can download it.  I did find it on that page so...Good Luck!This is your MODEL support page.
Try this.


http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/model-home.pl?mdl=VGNS460

When I open my computer BOX my CD rom drive is not appeared on it. I have window XP alothough CD rom is properly connected and it suddendly disappeared. How to handle this problem.

AhmadNeed...more...info...gasp  

Operating system / antivirus & antispyware protection / SERVICE packs installed / when did it start happening / did it ever work right / installed any new software?

Alan &LT;&GT;< :-)

I know this may sound dumb, but I have this HARD drive that I can figure out what it is.
 Quantum FIREBALL plus LM 3.5 series. From that how do I tell what size it is before putting it in an old computer ? Any help would be great.

Thanks!Exactly what markings are on the hard drive?  Anything that might indicate a specific model?  And, SEE http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=Quantum+Fireball+plus+LM+3.5+series&btnG=Google+SearchThanks for the help with Google. I done that before posting here.

All I have is

Quantum
Fireball Plus LM
3.5 series
N143
A jumper config
Bar code GTLA Lm15014-01-a 15. OAT

Thanks for any help.Might be easier to APPROACH from the computer angle.  Exactly what make and model computer is that?  And, why not connect that hard drive to that computer as a slave drive?  If you can get your comp to recognize the HD that way, you should be able to determine what size it is.I like soybean's idea of slaving it.
Then you could run Everest Home (Free) Edition to see exactly what it is.
And... that way you could run a diagnostic on it before you get too involved with it.
LACKING that, I would bet on 30GB if it's an LM.
See here:
http://www.active-hardware.com/english/reviews/storage/quantum-lm30.htm

How do I copy my power point presentation to a CD-RW? My computer is set for archive only not read only, yet it will not let me copy the presentation to the CD-RW. Thanks for your help! How are you trying to copy the presentations ? ?

Do you have a burning program ? ?If you are running Windows XP, the following directions should get you exactly what you need.  You do not have to have a special burning program for this job because XP is equipped to make this TYPE of file copy very simple.

I like to open two folders on my desktop when copying files to be burned.  First open "My Computer" and navigate to the place where your PowerPoint presentation is STORED.  Next, open My Computer again and open the DRIVE where the CDRW is.  With both windows open, click on the one where your presentation is stored so it is the active window.  Click and drag the presentation right over into the other window and drop it there.  It should copy over.  When it has completed the copy, you should see a button on the left hand SIDE of the burner window that says "Write these files to cd".  Click it, and your computer should burn the file and prepare it to be used in any other computer.

Good luck!

have pity, my son was on pc last night and keyboard worked fine, i turned on pc today and keyboard doesn't work. i checked connectins and they are fine, also rebooted with no luck. help  You checked the connection, but did you disconnect the keyboard and then reconnect it?
Is it USB (flat rectangle at the END) or PS/2 (ROUND at the end)?
Can you borrow another keyboard to try out on your computer?
Also, can you try your keyboard on another computer?  If so, does it still have problems?

The problem could simply be that your keyboard doesn't work anymore.  Thankfully, if that's the case, they're pretty cheap and easy to replace these days.Might some liquid have been spilled on it?  That can ruin them if not immediately removed from the computer and thoroughly cleaned and dried, at least dried if it was just water.after a lot of searching last night, i found the problem. the power source for the whole room is controlled by the LIGHT switched. i turned off the light and when i booted back up the usb drivers needed to be uninstalled and reinstalled and that solved the problem. Thanks for all of your help - i got worried since this is my dad's computer and step ma would have skinned me a live had i "broke" it. Thanks again, this site has been and will CONTINUE to be my go to spot for questions!  You may want to get an extension CORD and plug your computer into another room that isn't controlled by a light switch.  This is trouble waiting to happen.  In any case, I'm glad you got it figured out, and you are of course welcome to come back anytime you have a problem. Quote

after a lot of searching last night, i found the problem. the power source for the whole room is controlled by the light switched.

Few(2-3) days back I used my PC, it was working fine then(I properly SHUT down it ].
 But TODAY i am trying to switch it ON, it's not working. Following is the present state of PC...

As a switch ON the power,
Both the SMPS and the CPU fan are working at their regular speed, but the POWER light is not ON(remain OFF) and obviously the system does'nt boot that is BLANK screen on the MONITOR.(No Signal )

Even if I remove the RAMs then there is no SOUND of beep.

MSI G31TM-P21 Motherboard
2 GB RAM
1 HDD
Core2Duo Processor

Please Help ASAP .!!I'd TRY a power supply from a known good computer to swap into this.... if the voltage output is too LOW the motherboard will not even give you a post failure for RAM missing.


If you don't have a high end video card in this system and are just using integrated then a 250 watt or greater power supply will be plenty if a healthy supply.

Hello I'm new to this forum and sorry for the bad English.
My computer suddenly went off.so I restart it.but it booted to desktop and again it went off.somtime it won't BOOT to desktop; monitor light BLINK,cpu hdd light doesn't light.cpu power light is on.motherboard setup login is ok when in setup computer doesn't went off.can you HELP me please? THANK you korlg.I'll give a TRY to that.my hard disk has a small noise can It be the reason for that.? ? ?

Did you recieve advice outside if the Forum ? ?

Do you know anything about this vendor?
Good service?   Bad service?      
Prices good, bad, or just ok?   ( in particular,  components, hardware, etc. )

www.gigaparts.com/index.php

Anything you WANT to share or comment about them is appreciated.

They are from Alabama so it can't be all that bad but;
you "will" do better on PRICING  E6700  549.00   vs.   522.00   newegg.com
my opinionI've never heard of them, but that's not surprising.
My opinion is that the pricing is a LITTLE odd.
Some things are way expensive, and others are very cheap.
Of course, their prices could be normal, I'm in the UK so I'm not certain.
I just guessed, by halving it and comparing it to UK prices ($1 = £0.50).
So I could be completely out.
Just thought I might as well chip in. Quote

Some things are way expensive, and others are very cheap.

Of course, their prices could be normal, I'm in the UK so I'm not certain.
I just guessed, by halving it and comparing it to UK prices ($1 = £0.50).

I dropped my Logitech Mouse that I've had for years and ever since it won't respond to the DELETE command when I depress the wheel.  This is controlled by Logitech's program SetPoint.  I've asked computer people in Staples & Best Buy which is the best Logitech Mouse to buy that only has L, R & wheel buttons, that is programmable with SetPoint.  I do not need a gaming mouse, just a 3 button mouse will do the job.  However, none of them knew.  So, I contacted Logitech, explained to them what I wanted and to recommend which of their inexpensive mice would do the trick.  So far, no answer.  So, I am WONDERING if any of you out there know of a particular Logitech mouse model that allows you to program the wheel without spending a ridiculous amount of money.  Anything over $25 for a Mouse I consider ridiculous.  Thank you    I am not aware of a model with that feature that works within that budget of $25. I am thinking you will need to spend more to get what you need. However one option would be to search amazon or ebay to try to find the exact same model you have for sale used in working condition. Maybe if one could be found there it would be below the $25 budget with shipping included.

I have had good luck on amazon for computer parts. I was looking for a specific keyboard that I liked that came with HP/Compaq computers and found a guy SELLING 20 of them for $50. While I didn't need 20 keyboards, and wasn't planning on spending $50 with free shipping on them, I figured I now have a lifetime supply of keyboards that I like the feel of and they were all brand new STILL in HP OEM boxes. I still have 17 of them LEFT in boxes like new. I used one of them right away to swap out the 8 year old keyboard that was worn badly and had a intermittent space bar, and my wife I gave one of them to and the cat barfed on it and I didn't bother cleaning that and I gave her a new one and tossed the cat barf keyboard out.  Thanks for the tip with Amazon.  Hadn't thought of that.  I know what you mean about keyboards.  The one I have I've been using through 4 desktop computers.  Hate to give it up because the new ones are not made as well nor do they have the "touch" this one has.

Started a week AGO, when I couldn't double click to open icons. I could Right click and select open, or use the start menu. But now it is a BIG deal because I have to download a program for work, but I can't click on the box saying I agree to  the agreement before I do the download. It's a logitech cordless mouse. I've changed the batteries. I've restarted computer. Under device manager, says mouse working properly. I tried system restore. Not sure what to do next. The R click and cursor part work, so I KNOW it's recognized. I had a hard time booting up last week and was hitting alot of the F buttons on top if that helps at all. I'm not real good dealing with bios, registry or safe MODE, so you may have to dumb down your explanations, so I can figure it out. ThanksFirst thing is get a regular mouse.
Meanwhile:
Quote

Applies to Windows 7
    Open the Use the computer without a mouse or keyboard page by clicking the Start button , clicking Control Panel, clicking EASE of Access, clicking Ease of Access Center, and then clicking Use the computer without a mouse or keyboard.
    Select the options that you want to use: Use On-Screen Keyboard.

I have a wireless card, that the ANTENNA can no longer connect cause, of the missing SCREW too tighten it on there.  I was thinking that it mite be a 1/8 but, seems smaller and I have too get the nut for it but, I need too know the size.Please describe the type of card. Can you fine a picture?
https://www.google.com/search?q=images+of+wireless+cards&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8
Google :  images of Wireless Cards

A couple years ago I PURCHASED a cheap computer for basic word processing with a AMD C-50 Processor 1.00 Ghz.  It obviously runs pretty slowly.  Would it be cheaper to just buy a new laptop or a new processor?  I'm using the computer for basic INTERNET, email. and MS office for work.

ThanksIn some cases the laptop CPU speed has LITTLE to do with Internet speed.  But you may be more confident with anew machine.
What kind of budget do you  have?
Some nice brand new laptops are now  in just at $300.
"cheap new laptops for sale under 300"
Quote

New! HP - 15.6" Laptop - AMD A6-Series - 4GB Memory - 500GB Hard Drive - Black  $279.99   

Specs:
Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 3Ghz (not overclocked)
Sapphire HD 7770 Ghz OC edition [New]
Corsair VS450 PSU [4 months Old]
2 x 4gb ddr3 ram
Gigabyte GA G41m combo mobo [Replaced recently with warranty]

Well i narrowed down my fault find in my system, the issue was reboots during Ingame / stress testing GPU, and during stress testing GPU + CPU. Checked all components and Im guessing its either GPU or PSU, so i need u guys to help me in finalizing in whats faulty..
So what i found out was :
1. when i tried my old GPU with overclocked core clock 690 mem 653, i DIDNT get any reboot during stress testing GPU/ GPU + CPU.
2. when i tried to stress test my new gpu with stock clocks core 1000 mem 1250, i got reboots during GPU stress test after a few seconds/minutes and direct reboot when tried to stress test GPU + CPU
3. So i underclocked my Hd 7770 to a random 800-900 core and 900-1000 memory and it still rebooted during the tests but sometimes directly and sometimes randomly
4. Next i tried to underclock Hd 7770 to core 690 and mem 653( as my old HD5450 clocks) along with -8% POWER control. With these clocks i didnt get reboots during the stress tests of GPU / GPU + CPU ,they went for a long time without any reboots...
5. BUT with my HD 5450 on these clocks Assassins creed 4 lagged like *censored* (Below 20 fps always) and i couldnt play on max Resolution whereas here with new GPU with underclocked clocks 690 and 653 I'm getting almost same FPS as stock clocks of hd7770. its Playable with like 30-60fps, cant make out the difference between these clock changes,maybe a little fps drop but THATS still a million times better than my hd 5450. Ingame with these lowered clocks on hd7770 i think GPU is 80%+ load most of the timebut I dont remember the load on GPU during stock clocks (i think lower) and cant find out too..due to reboots
6.Temps are always fine ranging from 30-60 for both CPU and GPU

So with that being said what do you think is the problem???
Another problem is that when theres a power cut my UPS gives backup but Pc reboots and theres a loop of reboots in 8 mins each until Power is back...
I suspect the UPS bcoz its new and not well known but,
******Can it be a Faulty PSU ? It cant take enough power from my UPS ? Or its not faulty ,but can't give enough power to handle my full system??..with power as well as during power cut???******
OR
Is it a Faulty GPU that i just received?? Changing clocks doesn't change performance? Defective overclocked edition? Can anyone explain why there is no noticeable performance change from stock clocks to lowered clocks? and why is the performance of hd7770 on clocks of hd5450 10 times better and playable? [hd 5450 not playable]
Or is it just that my PSU cant handle higher clocks of my GPU? :/  Which service center should i visit, sapphire or corsair?

Please Reply and Help me _/\_You said:
Quote

1. when i tried my old GPU with overclocked core clock 690 mem 653, i didnt get any reboot during stress testing GPU/ GPU + CPU.

hello does anybody know how to change the config of the keys on a SONY laptop? if i press shift and number 2 i get a sign, the button actually shows the " sign and visa versa the buttons are MIXED up. any advice appreciated..mwestGo to CONTROL Panel --> Regional And Language OPTIONS and set the languages to English (UK) -->Languages --> Details and change it to the UK keyboard layout rather than the US one.
Hope this HELPS.

Im still very new to computers. And learning more and more each day. The more I ask ( silly question or not the more I learn )

 This is my set-up:
 i7 non-OC
 MSI 970 GTX
 z97x gaming MOBO
 corsair 750w PSU
 Samsung 850 pro 512 SSD
 4tb Toshiba HDD
 16gb ballistix RAM

 Here's my question.
 Is it ok to run 2 144hx monitors and a 60hz monitor on this single GPU?
 Or do I need another 970 GPU?

 *** I'm not much of a gamer, but when I get some free time I would certainly like to try ( *cough cough* We have a 2 yr old and 2 month old so we have minimal free time ).
 1) "Why 3 monitors?" Why not? I have the deskspace and I have extra monitors ( I only have 1 X 144hz monitor this tie )
 2) "What do I use my PC for?" INTERNET. Browsing. Surfing, videos etc... Nothing demanding. But some point in time I'd like to dabble into picture and home video editing etc... Plus I always have multiple tabs and windows open once so the more monitors the easier it is.
 3) "Isnt this an overkill?" Yup.
 4) "Why 144hz?" Have you seen these things? WOW!! I bought an acer 24" 144hz 2 months ago from newegg on sale. Watching videos is amazing.


 __________________
 So we know I have an overkill set-up for what I do. Yes this money could be put elsewhere etc... And I don't need any of this for what I do. I know that. But it's fun. I see it like this: Why does the guy down the road spend $40,000 and 6 years rebuilding a 1972 muscle car in his garage and INVEST $18,000 on shiny chrome performance parts when he doesn't drive it in the RAIN? Only put on 1,000 miles a year and never goes above 65mph when the car will do 160 mph? Because he can. And he has fun. This is how I see it.
 __________________

 Ok enough with that.
 1) Can I run 2 144hz monitor on a single 970? a)will there be performance issues with 1 GPU?
 2) Do I need a 2nd 970 GPU?

 thanks everyone

Made a live usb to install linux (dont hate). Afterwards I tried to open it, it said "unable to mount try to format to FAT32". So I used GParted and formatted it to FAT32. Still  wont  work . I tried all other formats a the still NOTHING. WHY !!!! WHAT DO I HAVE TO DO U STUPID AWWIORFJPWETRJAWPOINFHN !!!?!!?!!? (just a bit of rage)

EDIT - Its a EXTERNAL hardrive to be preciseClean your act up...we have Members of all ages here...

patio.Please explain further without the emotions shared on how you feel about it so we can assist...

What Linux Distro and Version?
What Drive Make/Model are you using?
What computer make/model and specs are you using with it?

Is this Distro an alteration of another build such as one that you took a Live Distro and added or removed software to it and then created a new ISO?

Any other additional info that would HELP us from having to make guess work of your SETUP and situation?

Reading what you have here it seems like you created a Live Bootable USB drive and are trying to open it with Windows maybe in which it wants to format the drive because its not familiar with Linux on the drive. If the OP has a hard time doing something the hard way, he needs to START over.

Boot from an external hard drive is the hard way.The  USB protocol is peculiar and does not lean itself to booting a hard drive.

The easy way is to boot from a USB flash drive. That is well-documented. Just Google for Boot Linux from USB stick

But to boot from an external hard drive is not standard.  Give up. Use USB flash drive.

Ok  last day accidentally I spoil some water on my laptop and after that my laptop is not starting. Actually the FAN starts when I press the power button but noting shows on the display not even bios. So I'm little confused, what the problem can be is it the motherboard or the PROCESSOR. I tried the hdd and ram on other laptop and it's working properly so if there any way I can figure out what's the main problem will be really appreciable. The laptop is probably beyond economical repair. Applying power to wet electronics usually causes additional damage.

If your lucky you could remove the battery from laptop. Let it dry out for a week or so and then install the battery and try again.

99% of the time when power has been applied to wet electronics it causes the electronics to eat its own electrical connections through electrolysis and CREATE crystalized lead, tin, copper oxides which are conductive and cause shorting between signal traces etc.


If you have any important data on the hard DRIVE you might GET lucky and be able to install it into an empty external hard drive enclosure case and connect to it from a healthy computer with good virus protection on it  to avoid cross contamination if anything bad was on the laptops drive to not infect the other system.

I'm trying to install a game and I have all of the requirements met except I have to have 3D on my GeForce GTX 950M. I'm not sure why they make you have it and I can't install it unless I have that, I won't EVEN use 3D. Is there anything I can install or do to bypass this? Thanks for any help you can give me.What game or software requires 3D? The only way to KNOW if there is a work around is to know what software your using. Chances are there is no 3D work around, but you might be ABLE to get it to run in a 2D mode if your referring to 3D TV type of 3D and not a game that has 3D graphics presented through a 2D device ( standard 2D monitor etc )

Hi we have picked up an old hp pavilion t3000 desktop for our daughter to muck around with and basically get used to I.t. , we're now a BIT excited as it almost seems to be working, I'm only a novice myself .
What I've noticed is when this four pin type connection is unplagged everything comes on and stays on except the monitor, however if this cable is plugged in, the computer comes on for about ten seconds including a hp blue screen on the monitor with some options in the bottom right coer to press esc,f10, and others , but everything dies after ten seconds.

Can't seem to ATTACH pic, sorryWhat connection is this? You will need to describe it in more detail.Its apparently a atx12v, I've been googling....it's square and white and SORT of beside/below it is a long black empty slot, would this slot normally have a card in it?

Noticed something else too, it powered on then off , so I left it. JUst noticed the MOUSE is lit up? !? nothing else is on but the red light in the mouse...I'm sorry but the POWER supply is faulty and will need to be repaired. You could also replace it. The power supply is a standard ATX power supply which you should be able to get from any computer store.

As for the SSD, it can last longer if it is NOT the boot drive.  You should only put the most demanding programs on it, namely you top games.

Why do you need the SSD to be the boot drive?

The Western Digital life guide diagnostics show the 2 Samsung drives as being Raid 0 making a single 2tb drive. When you added the ssd drive this caused the raid to be damaged ie the raid was then made up of the ssd and 1 of the Samsung drives this is the drive you see in the windows disk management screen. If you need the data from the 2 Samsung 1tb drives then you will need to put them back on the same sata cables they were attached to originally. Boot the computer from the Samsung drives leaving the SSD disconnected, copy the data to another USB hard drive then reconnect the SSD and re setup the raid or just format the 2 1tb drives as separate data drives. Windows disk manger can span 2 drives as one single drive if you want a single 2tb  drive. Recuvia won't recover the data, you would need something like reclaimme free raid recovery to set the 2 drives up for recovery. Easier just to return the drives back into there old setup configuration and backup.           

I want to hook my HP COMPAQ 6715b laptop to my flatscreen TV to use the larger screen (32") as a monitor. What adapter can I use for this. I already have a 10' VGA cable that I used for this purpose with an older TV with VGA input, but this new TV does not have a VGA input. Will something like this work?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4GW1F95729&cm_re=hdmi_vga_adapter-_-9SIA4GW1F95729-_-ProductYou said:
Quote

t... new TV does not have a VGA input

The TV has female HDMI input connections so it would need a male HDMI to plug into it. The adapter you linked looks to also have female HDMI plug so that won't work will it? Don't I need an adapter with male HDMI output plug?

I'm having a problem with my sound. Any sound and music is very distorted, and has a series of beeps and STUFF mixed in. It's kind of hard to explain. One day I was PLAYING Oblivion and it just started doing that. I tried reinstalling my sound driver, but that didn't change anything. I was wondering, is it possible that, since I'm using integrated sound, the PART of the motherboard responsible for sound could have some how burned out? Would buying a cheap sound card possibly fix the problem and restore my sound? Any thoughts why I'm getting this annoying background noise, so bad that I have to turn sound off? Any help/ideas will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.An inexpensive card should rectify the problem as onboard is disabled when installing an add on card is done.
How old is this machine ? ?
Might be worth your while to remove an access panel and ensure all fans are in working order.
Heat Kills.a simple thing but has the input cable plug came out of the socket, even a little bit can cause faulty connections and sound. also download a new set of codecs from here:-

http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowsmedia/forpros/format/codecdownload.aspx

or here:-  http://www.free-codecs.com/

what is the motherboard ? it might be worth it to go to the company web site and download drivers for the mobo.
can you not borrow sound card and put it in to see if there is any improvement.Well I've already tried reinstalling the drivers that it came with, and they worked fine before, but the board is a gigabyte 915g chipset, thats all I can remember off the top of my headSo this means what in relation to the problem ? ?
Have you installed a sound card to see if the problem is solved ? ?
If you need to get a sound card - and I believe that may be the ultimate solution here - but you don't want to spend much, take a look at CHAINTECH AV-512 5.1 Channels PCI Interface Sound Card - Retail.  I've had one of these for about two years now and have had no PROBLEMS with it.  I've used a mic with it and also converted some music tapes to digital files by connecting the Phone out connector on my stereo unit to the Line In port on the sound card.Ok so I haven't tried PUTTING a sound card in yet, because I don't have one to try in it unless I buy one. So how sure are you guys that getting a sound card in there will fix the problem? If more than one person thinks this will be the best way to fix this I'll go ahead and get that 10 dollar sound card. Any other opinions on this?Can you borrow some speakers to try?Well I have tried different speakers, and I even tried my speakers on my friend's computer and they worked fine on it, but my friend's speakers had the same crappy effects on my computer. Still puzzled but I haven't bought a sound card yet, I want to be sure theres not another way to fix it first.

Check your device manager for errors & warnings.
I assume you have re-booted during this mess.
Are you 100% sure you installed the correct drivers?
Have you tried the most up to date drivers from the manufacturer's website?

Download, unzip, install and run Everest Home Edition
Everest

Select Computer>Summary from the left hand screen.
Right click in the right hand screen & select Copy All
Paste the details in here.

Hello All
I'm working on a Intel se440bx mobo with 3 78mb of ram running win 98se
I'm having some trouble with this thing so I did the following
replaced the BATTERY,and removed everything but the cpu, got some beeps
inserted the memory and they were detected
Plugged in the hard drive and it was detected.
I even reseated the cpu
The thing is almost clean enough to eat off it
Now when I GO to boot up post finds the mobo and processor, finds the memory (383mb), finds the keyboard and mouse, finds the hard drive and the cdrom. and stops right there
It wont go any farther than that no matter what I do
I've tried booting off a floppy, *censored* I even tried flashing the bios
The floopy drive spins during the post but that is all
When I try to get into the bio to chage the boot order (thinking cd) it just hangs at "entering setup"
This computer has a twin (same everything) that has the same kinda problem but lives miles away
Any suggestions?
Thanks MelHow many beeps did you hear?  The beep code indicates what hardware is not working or connected incorrectly.  

Also, different BIOSes have different beep CODES.  What BIOS manufacturer name APPEARS on the computer when you power it on?
378 mb. of ram?  How many sticks?  How many slots do you have inside the computer where you place the memory sticks?  Something doesnt seem to add up right.  Even if you had  ONE 256 mb and one 128 mb still doesnt add up to 378 unless the video card is using up some.  384 but then you mentioned when it booted again it read 383 m.b.?  Hang in there someone will be along to help you!!!!Probably 3 x 128.

I'm wondering what the history of the machine is...
Could it be a retired corporate number that has been re-sold with a wiped hard drive ?

Need more info.Thanks to all for replying
I will have to start over afain for the beep codes, as I forgot which one's I got at which time.
I have 3 slots for the memory thus 3x128 = 378
These computers were built by a freind, and were used in his home office doing CAD work for many years
Will get back to all soon on the beet codes.
Thanks again    Mel

I'm ordering parts to build a computer, but i need to know if all of the parts are compatible.
They are all from newegg.com:
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16811154052
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16813131143
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16814122180
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16814130056
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16817338008
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16819103751
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16820340017
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16822144416
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16827106055

EDIT: if you dont want to look through all these, i posted descriptions below.Sorry, I'm too lazy to open all those links  
How about a brief description over each one ?OK,
1)MicroATX MID-tower computer case
Spec
Type       MicroATX Mid Tower
Color       Black/ Silver
Case Material       Steel
With Power Supply       Yes
Power Supply       ATX 300W Intel/AMD Listed
Motherboard Compatibility       Micro ATX/Flex ATX
With Side Panel Window       No
Expansion
External 5.25" Drive Bays       2
External 3.5" Drive Bays       2
Internal 3.5" Drive Bays       1
Expansion Slots       4
Front PORTS
Front Ports       2 x USB2.0
2 x Audio Ports
Cooling System
90mm Fans       1
Side Air duct       Yes
Physical Spec
Dimensions       15.4" x 7" x 14.2" (DxWxH)
2)ASUS M2V-MX Socket AM2 VIA K8M890 Micro ATX AMD Motherboard
Supported CPU
CPU Socket Type       Socket AM2
CPU Type       Athlon 64 X2 / Athlon 64 FX / Athlon 64
FSB       1000MHZ Hyper Transport (2000 MT/s)
Chipsets
North Bridge       VIA K8M890
South Bridge       VIA VT8237 A
Memory
Number of Memory Slots       2×240pin
Memory Standard       DDR2 800
Maximum Memory Supported       4GB
Dual Channel Supported       Yes
Expansion Slots
AGP Slots       None
PCI Express x16       1
PCI Slots       2
Storage Devices
PATA       2 x ATA100 up to 4 Devices
SATA 1.5 Gb/s       2
SATA 3Gb/s       2
SATA RAID       SATA 1.5Gb/s RAID 0, RAID 1, JBOD
SATA 3Gb/s RAID 0, RAID 1
Onboard Video
Onboard Video       Yes
Onboard Video Chipset       VIA DeltaChrome
Onboard Audio
Audio Chipset       Realtek ALC883
Audio Channels       6 Channels
Onboard LAN
LAN Chipset       Realtek 8100C
Max LAN Speed       10/100Mbps
Rear Panel Ports
PS/2       2
COM       1
LPT       1
Video Ports       D-Sub
USB       4 x USB 2.0
Audio Ports       3 Ports
Onboard USB
Onboard USB       2 x USB 2.0 connectors support 4 ports
Physical Spec
Form Factor       Micro ATX
Dimensions       9.6" x 8.6"
Features
Power Pin       24 Pin
3) Leadtek TV2000XP/EXPERT PCI Interface TV/FM Tuner Card w/REMOTE
PCI is all you need to know
4) EVGA 256-P2-N624-AR GeForce 7900GS 256MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 KO Video Card
PCI Express x16
Minimum of a 400 Watt power supply.
(Minimum recommended power supply with +12 Volt current rating of 20 Amps.)
Minimum 500 Watt for SLI mode system.
(Minimum recommended power supply with +12 Volt current rating of 28 Amps.)
An available 6 pin PCI-E power connector (hard drive power dongle to PCI-E 6 pin adapter included with card)
5) Athena Power AP-MP4ATX40 MicroATX VER 2.2 400W Power Supply 115/230 V cUL,UL, TUV, CB, CE
SPEC
Type       MicroATX
Maximum Power       400W
Fans       2
PFC       No
Main Connector       20 + 4Pin
Dual +12V       No
PCI-E Connectors       1 x 6Pin
SLI Support       No
Modular Cabling Support       No
Over Voltage Protection       Yes
Input Voltage       115/230 V
Input Frequency Range       50/60 Hz
Input Current       14A 115V, 7A 230V
Output       [email protected],[email protected],[email protected],[email protected],[email protected]
MTBF       100K hours at 25°C
Approvals       cUL,UL, TUV, CB, CE
Features
Features       High efficiency
Low Ripple & Noise
Output over voltage protection
Short circuit protection on all outputs
Reset table power shut down
Complies with FCC part 15 subpart J Class B at 115VAC operation &
CISPR 22 Class B at 230 VAC operate
100% burn-in under high ambient temperature (50°C)
Vacuum-impregnated transformer
100% Hi-pot tested
HP Video Power Connector Ready
6) AMD Athlon 64 X2 4600+ Windsor 2.4GHz 2 x 512KB L2 Cache Socket AM2 Processor
7) APIDA 1GB 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Desktop Memory
Western Digital Caviar SE WD2000JS 200GB 7200 RPM 8MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive
9) LITE-ON Black 2MB Cache E-IDE/ATAPI DVD Burner with LightScribe Technology

Bravo to those of you who do this!Yes, they will work together as far as I can see.
You may be able to get a better deal though.
What's your budget, and what is the PC going to be used for?

I WOULD like instructions for replacing the CMOS BATTERY in my Fujitsu C340 laptop computer. I kinow it is a small, ROUND battery with TWO legs on it. Thanks in advance.

I have no idea where it is located either. I've looked under the keyboard but didn't see it. The only opening on the back is the battery door (plate).Fugitsu, like many other Japanese MANUFACTURERS, has poor support.  Contacting them might be worth a try:

http://support.fujitsupc.com/CS/Portal/supporthome.do

Thanks for your suggestion. I emailed them and they said I had to send my computer back East to one of their vendors. Not!!!

I have a Vivitar Vivicam 6330s Digital Camera that I am using for the first time.  It is new, not used.  I have loaded 10 pictures onto my COMPUTER, a Dell Latitude notebook.

After loading the pics onto the computer each time the memory in the camera filled, I would simply press the TRASH button on the camera, erase the images, and start taking more pics.  (I have a lot to sell on ebay and that is why I bought the camera.)

But this time, it won't LET me delete.  The camera says, Memory Full, but when I press the trash button to delete the images, it says, No Images.  So I'm stuck.  The memory is full, but there are no images to delete.  It doesn't make any sense and I've read the section on erasing images in the manual.  It says to do what I've always been doing: go to the trash button, bring up the images, and press delete.  But the camera isn't bringing up any images even though it says the memory is full.  Help?Okay im going to assume your connecting the camera to your laptop via usb port.  When ever I have connected a camera that way it shows up just like a usb drive type thing.  Go into the drive and attempt to manually delete the images if this doesn't work contact the person you bought the camera from.  Umm only MESS with folders that have the pictures you spicifically took inside of there ... not sure how to spell spicifically lol.  Hope that solves your problem.If your camera uses some type of removable storage(SD, microSD), then the camera might have an option to reformat the removable storage. That will completely remove ALL info in the memory. DO NOT do it if it isn't removable storage.

Hi all I'm new here and was hoping someone could help me. I have a general idea on what is wrong but just NEED some additional guidance. I have been having probs with beeps at post too for the last few DAYS but my pc starts up and functions properly. I know there is a problem looming tho. This morning when I started my pc up there are no beeps at post which has me even more creeped out. I restarted several times just to make sure I wasn't crazy. There are no beeps at post. Last night I ran a virus scan and 1 virus was detected and removed on restart. Like I said I have had no problems with restarting my pc I'm actually using the pc to type this message but I know that something needs to be done about this as well. I have tried cleaning the inside of my computer (it was the 1st time the computer chassis has been opened). I have had no other problems with the system. So now according to intel's SITE I have something wrong with my system board and the beep codes I was getting at post prior to today was 1-3-4-1, which was something to do with the memory possible bad sector and such. I read something last night that suggested that I reseat the AGP cables? I can't REMEMBER or don't know what those are and saw something else about flashing the BIOS, which I'm not to keen on since I know it can be dangerous if you don't know what you are doing and I have never done a flash BIOS before. Help me someone, please."o now according to intel's site I have something wrong with my system board and the beep codes I was getting at post prior to today was 1-3-4-1, which was something to do with the memory possible bad sector and such."

According to the quote above it could be defective system RAM or cache RAM.  Does the Intel site go into any more detail?

Alan <>I doubt it is the issue here...Thank you for getting back to me so soon. No I don't want to do a BIOS flash and I don't think it will help matters either. Earlier today I cleaned the inside a bit better, I noticed there was some dust collection in the fan and cleaned that out. I also reseated all the cables inside going to and from the mobo. And as far as I can tell from the intel site it says that there is a possible problem in the 1st mb of memory, possible bad sector. The rest of the info is basically junk I don't need to know, and they don't manufacture this board anymore so therefore they have no support for this board. The board is a pentium (R) 4 3.06 Ghz board. After doing all this it once again has resumed the beep code 1-3-4-1.  If anyone else has any furhter help they can offer it would be greatly appreciated.DLoad MemTest and use it to create a bootable floppy that will then test your RAM...let it run a few hours.
Any errors mean the RAM has gone bad and will need to be replaced. Quote

DLoad MemTest and use it to create a bootable floppy that will then test your RAM...let it run a few hours.
Any errors mean the RAM has gone bad and will need to be replaced.

Hi to all,

I have a Compaq SCSI HD that fails to start, giving an 'NTDLR is missing' message. After several attemps, I then moved it to my Dell PC. On restrat, I see the SCSI disk listed, but the message sais 'MPT Boot Rom. No supported device found'. I can also see the SCSI disk in the MPT SCSI BIOS Configuration Utility of my Dell machine.

In Windows, the SCSI HD appears in Device Manager (of my Dell computer), but not in Disk Management console and not under My Computer. Looking at the SCSI disk properties 'Volumes' tab (see attached), shows Type-Unknown, Status-Unreadable.

Any ideas?

Kind Regards,
Ofer Brum, Israel.
Did you INSTALL the SCSI drivers on the other machine ? ?Hi,

The SCSI controller and HD drivers all seems up to date and appears to function OK. Status tab states both devices are working properly.

Can it be the SCSI disk is fault?It appears from your IMAGE that HDD is empty...
Did it ever have anything on it ? ?
If so was it subject to a power loss or other MISHAP ? ?Hi,

Thanks for your help  

This SCSI HD is the primary disk of my other PC. It was working fine until one day it fails to boot to Windows, giving an 'NTLDR is missing' error. I then installed it in my other machine to try figure out where the problem was.OK...so where do you want to go from here ? ?Hi,

This is what I'm trying to figure out. I was hoping to get some additional ideas. I'm trying to determine is this a HD failure, or something I missed in the way, when connecting this disk to the other machine..The person that said that the drive was empty was correct.  Its not just empty.  Its not even formatted. Right Click on my computer click manage Understorage there should be a thing to manage your hard drives and format the non formatted one.  Also an excellent way to turn a sim card from a cell phone into a hidden hard drive.  If you have a sim card reader that is.Hi,

Thanks for your REPLY, but as I mentioned earlier, the SCSI disk does not appear in the 'Disk MANAGMENT' at all. Although it does appear in 'Device Manager'.

My cpu is getting very hot very quickly, and it doesn't have time to start windows before it restarts itself. At first, I thought it was the power supply, but then I went into setup and checked the temperature, and the cpu temp was 65 degrees C. and rising.
I have a:
Pentium4 3.0 GHz processor
1 GB dual channel ddr 2 ram
dvd burner
300 GB HD
GeForce 6600 GT
It hasn't been on the internet for a long time, nor have I changed anything as far as hardware or software. It is kind of dusty, but if a cpu isn't getting good airflow due to dust, would it really HEAT up that quickly? I was playing oblivion a lot, then it just starting restarting. As time went by and I didn't do anything, it was taking less and less time to restart itself. Now it's at the point where you can't get to windows, and it will only let you look in setup for maybe 3 or 4 minutes tops. If anyone knows why it's doing this please help me out. Any ideas or pointers on what is wrong will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
questions*
What type of [highlight]motherboard[/highlight] do you have ?
Are you using the "stock" intel  heatsink/fan  < ?
did / are you cleaning out the dust and crud inside the case.

Have you overclocked this cpu  before ?I've got a Gigabyte 315g chipset, I'm cleaning out the dust to see if that HELPS, and I'm using the regular heatsinks that came with it, but It's a custom build, and it was working fine for a long time, at least a year. Also for the last part, no, I've never risked overclocking anything.Could be the CPU fan isn't spinning up to speed.  Open the case &AMP; BOOT the system.  Watch the fan.  Does it make any kind of noise other than the fan spinning (grinding / whining)?

Alan <><  
no, it's not making any strange sounds, but when I go into setup, the fan starts off at around 1500 rpm, then quickly climbs to around 2400 rpm. I'm guessing that as the cpu gets hotter, the fan is having to work harder. It gets to about 2500 rpm before it shuts off.Ok, I cleaned the dust out from the cpu fan and it must have been so thick that it wasn't getting ANY airflow, because now it's working fine and it's not restarting anymore. I feel like an idiot because it was so simple a problem, but thanks for your help everyone anyways. Quote

Ok, I cleaned the dust out from the cpu fan and it must have been so thick that it wasn't getting ANY airflow, because now it's working fine and it's not restarting anymore. I feel like an idiot because it was so simple a problem, but thanks for your help everyone anyways.

Hey

Whenever we shut down the computer we ALWAYS have trouble booting it back up. We now leave it running, but in instances where it does get shut down it becomes a real PAIN to boot back up. Sometimes when you press the power button it does absolutely nothing, other times the fans turn on, but it doesn't boot up or make the BEEPS that it normally does. What I usually do is hold down the reboot button and the power button together for 5 seconds then release and hope it works. Occasionally it does, but maybe it's just a fluke. So what could the problem be? If you need to know motherboard info and whatnot, I'll download AIDA32 and find out."Sometimes when you press the power button it does absolutely nothing, other times the fans turn on, but it doesn't boot up or make the beeps that it normally does."

This INDICATES a hardware problem.  Possibly the power SUPPLY or the motherboard.  

"What I usually do is hold down the reboot button and the power button together for 5 seconds then release and hope it works."  

You shouldn't be able to do both buttons at the same time.  Might check all your connections inside the computer (if you're comfortable with that...making sure you ground yourself 1st before poking around inside).  Reseat the RAM, power connector from the power supply to the motherboard, all data and power cables to all drives.

Alan <><  Hm. I'll bring it to my dads house. I'm not comfortable with doing it, but my dad could. So what I need to do is check connections, and reseat these things? What does that mean? Quote

Hm. I'll bring it to my dads house. I'm not comfortable with doing it, but my dad could. So what I need to do is check connections, and reseat these things? What does that mean?

Hello

   I just installed a ethernet adapter and i can not use it because it will not renew my IP address.  Could some one tell me what i have to do to renew my IP addressIn Device Manager, is the new card recognized ?Open a DOS window and type "ipconfig /release" with out the quotations.  That should zero out your IP info.  Then type "ipconfig /renew".  That should give you a new IP...unless you have your system set up for static and not dynamic IP configuration.

Alan &LT;&GT;<  jflan and ale52

  Sure do APPRECIATE your replys.  Its LOOKING good in the device manager and it will not renew my ip address.  and more ideas on this problem will be appreciated
Thanks
harley

ipconfig:Microsoft Windows XP [Version 5.1.2600]
(C) Copyright 1985-2001 Microsoft Corp.

C:\Documents and Settings\larry>ipconfig

Windows IP Configuration


Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection 3:

        Connection-specific DNS Suffix  . :
        Autoconfiguration IP Address. . . : 169.254.7.189
        Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.0.0
        Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . :

C:\Documents and Settings\larry>ipconfig /renew

Windows IP Configuration

An error occurred while renewing interface Local Area Connection 3 : UNABLE to c
ontact your DHCP server. Request has timed out.

C:\Documents and Settings\larry>
C:\Documents and Settings\larry>
C:\Documents and Settings\larry>
C:\Documents and Settings\larry>ipconfig

I have an AccuSync 70 monitor. It has a grid pattern (the grids are about 1 inch SQUARE) on the whole monitor. The grid pattern stays there even when I start the CPU. it also stays there when i turn the monitor on when the cpu is off. when the cpu is off the grid pattern goes from light blue on most of the screen to black on most of the screen every 3 or 4 seconds. Whatever the color the grids are always there. when i start the cpu the grid pattern alternates between green and black. but doesnt go away. what the *censored* is this? im using an older 1 ghz computer with an AMD athlon processor, running xp pro, the hard drive on the computer was replaced about 3 years ago. thank youWhen did the start happening / have you tried ANOTHER monitor in its place?

Alan <><  it's happened periodically over quite some time, but normally i would just turn off the computer, reboot and it would go away. now it won't go away and ive rebooted many times. have not tried a different monitor. just yesterday i saw the windows startup screen on this same monitor but the computer never finished it's startup and then got stuck in this grid pattern. i've already unplugged the monitor for several minutes and plugged BACK in...download the driver for this monitor from here and see if there is any improvement
http://monitors.free-driver-download.com/NEC/14484/NEC-AccuSync-70-Monitor-Driver-Windows-98-ME-2000-XP.html

or this one

http://www.opendrivers.com/driver/214484/nec-accusync-70-monitor-driver-windows-98-me-2000-xp-free-download.htmloriginal NEC Drivers are from here:-

http://www.necdisplay.com/support/main.cfm?thePage=http://www.necdisplay.com/support/css/signedinf/files2.htm&title=Display%20Device%20Drivers

from there you can also access the problem solving troubleshooting section of the web SITE

hello
for some reason my microphone wont work whenever i try to listen to it theres a windy pitchy SOUND its like as soon as it hears the first thing it will make it pitchy and it echos i TRIED it on steam with my friends they can sort of hear me but the pitchy sound is there i TOOK the headphones out and tried them on a laptop and it made the same noise so i assumed it was the headphones but i tried a different mic on my computer and it still make the same sound the only thing i can see MESSING with it is my USB guitar TONE cable i use for a game called rocksmith but i took it out and disabled it and its the same thing sometimes theres a pitchy echo sound sometimes i hear nothing i tried the headset on a different computer with listen to this device and it just had like dim white noise.

I have a SIMILAR problem to another POSTER.  I have a Quantum Fireball KX 27.3 MB internal IDE DRIVE from an old computer.  I bought an inexpensive external USB to IDE case and installed the drive.  It shows up in device manager as "disk" but not in the disk management console.  In device manager it says there is no driver installed, but when I choose 'install driver' it tells me there is no more up to date driver available to install.  I am running Windows XP sp2 fully up to date.  An INTERNET search didn't turn up any XP drivers for this drive.  Any ideas out there
HNWHow is it jumpered and cabled ? ?USB cable from computer to external enclosure.
Separate power direct to external enclosure.
Jumpered as Master.

Could it be possibly a SATA drive ? ?
If so have the drivers been installed ? ?It's described as a "UATA" drive.

When I leave my computer idling, it sounds as if it is about to take off. The fans (?) have to work so hard that the noise is deafening - any ideas what might be cuasing this and how I can stop it happening? It's an advent with Intel P4 550 3.4GHz

Thanks  When did this start?
How old is the PC?
When was the last time you cleaned it out?Two suggestions...

1.  Clean the dust out with a can of compressed air.  This might help with a lot of the noise.

2.  You say this happens when you leave your computer idling...it COULD be auto-defragging.  This happens sometimes when I let my computer idle and it can be quite noisy.  If you are using XP, then download TweakUI.  Then click on General, scroll down and uncheck Optimize hard disk while idle, and click OK.

Leave your computer idle again and SEE if these suggestions work.Thanks both - this STARTED about a month ago, my computer is a couple of years old and I've never cleaned it out . Is there any SPECIAL technique to doing this?

CheersYou may find this article useful.
Just make sure you are careful inside the case and observe ESD precautions so you don't fry anything. Quote

Thanks both - this started about a month ago, [highlight]my computer is a couple of years old and I've never cleaned it out[/highlight] . Is there any special technique to doing this?

Cheers

When I leave my computer idling, it sounds as if it is about to take off. The fans (?) have to work so hard that the noise is deafening - any ideas what might be cuasing this and how I can stop it happening? It's an advent with Intel P4 550 3.4GHz

Thanks  

I have an Asus P5PE-VM mobo with the 865G chipset.  The CPU is an Intel Celeron D 331 with 533 mhz FSB. I have one stick of 512 MB Corsair DDR 400 RAM.

The BIOS is reporting the RAM speed at 333 mhz rather than 400 mhz. Asus says that this is normal for when USING the 533 FSB processor.  

Is this true?  I am pretty sure that the previous board I tried (ECS board, same chipset) reported at 400 mhz.

I don't really care about speed per se, but just stability.


PKUnfortunately, I don't have the answer for this, but I see no reason for Asus to lie to you.Do you have other settings in your BIOS for MEMORY speed?  I believe the correct Motherboard FSB for DDR 400 memory is actually 200MHz, as indicated in a table on http://www.pcbuyerbeware.co.uk/RAM.htm.Well, let's just say that my EXPERIENCE (today) with Asus support left much to be deisired and I do not feel very confident in the answers I as GIVEN. That is why i decided to ask around.

PK

Hi all,
I am not computer or scanner WIZARD, so I need help to GET a good but not over the top scanner.
At this time I am using a HP scanjet 4470c which is 1200 dpi and 48 bit colour, (Just looked it up on the web) I have no idea what to look for in a scanner, is it the more dpi and bit the better   :-?
what I am looking for is a REPLACEMENT because I have Vista on the way and there is no drives for my HP.
I am sure there must be better scanners about now which have good QUALITY scans for about the £100 mark.
any help will be most welcome
Thanks
NedGoogle is your FRIEND...

http://www.google.com/search?q=scanners+reviews&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a

Before you go out and buy something please make sure that it is Vista compatible.

Alan <><  I do understand that you have vista on the way but I am not understanding "there is no drives for my HP. "
Quote

I do understand that you have vista on the way but I am not understanding "there is no drives for my HP. "

I do understand that you have vista on the way but I am not understanding "there is no drives for my HP. "

dear sir / MADAM,

am from india, i need the basic configuration details for server.

1.tower sever
2.WINDOWS or LINUX

i need the server for conduct COMPUTER science lab (database lab).
kindly mention two types of configuration

1. windows or linux server for upto 140 systems
2. windows or linux server for upto 70 systemsWe aren't here to do your homework for you...

So I have a choice of 2 already owned LAPTOPS of which only bringing 1 of them with me on the trip.

The specs for the newer laptop the ASUS X401A lacks info on the GPU and it looks like the CPU might actually be an APU as seen here:
http://ark.intel.com/products/72060/Intel-Celeron-Processor-1000M-2M-Cache-1_80-GHz

Here is the laptop I bought for like $279 about a year ago.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834231360

I am trying to figure out if this newer Celeron M1000 based laptop would be better for games than the 2009 model Toshiba Athlon II M300 2.0Ghz Dual-Core no L3 Cache that has its own dedicated GPU Mobile Radeon HD4200, but I cant seem to find any GPU benchmark data for the Intel HD Graphics for the Celeron M1000 1.8Ghz with 2MB L3 Cache Dual-Core

Currently I have Linux Mint 17.1 on this laptop and if this is the better choice for games, i would dump Linux off of it and reinstall Windows 7 to it and take this on the road trip instead.

Battery Life etc is not necessary as for its plugged in all the time in hotel room when gaming etc.

While both of these systems are NOT really gaming spec systems, I cant afford to buy another laptop at this time after surprise $1600 dental bill without dental insurance for a gold crown that blew money I would have had to get a nice laptop and figured I'd check here to see if anyone knew of where to find Intel HD Graphics benchmarks? Or if I just need to load up a benchmark tool on both and compare that way?

The Celeron M1000 actually isnt all that bad of a CPU but its definitely not a Core i3 or better...LOL  I bought this Celeron M1000 based laptop initially to replace my Intel Atom 1.66Ghz netbook and not really intend it for games, but it might actually run games better than the 2009 Toshiba given its a 2015 ASUS model in which there have been improvements to FSB and core performance as well as APU design if this really is an APU.

Update: Looks like the Celeron M1000 beats the Athlon II M300 in benchmark as seen here with 48% better performance... also there is NO for GPU functionality in comparison listing for specs between CPUs, so the Celeron M1000 might be a CPU and not an APU even though Intels website shows info that suggests it might be an APU with GPU data. http://www.game-debate.com/cpu/index.php?pid=1201&pid2=725&compare=celeron-1000m-1-8ghz-vs-athlon-ii-m300-dual-core

Its too bad I cant bring my AMD FX-8350 4Ghz desktop system with me.   
I would say that the Celeron should be a little faster overall - the CPU itself is certainly faster, the graphics look like pretty much a wash.  The M1000 has the basic "Intel HD Graphics" from the Ivy Bridge line with 6 execution units, it's the slowest available from that lineup but the HD4200 is pretty old these days and was designed as a basic LOW cost GPU at the time.  It would be difficult to find GOOD comparisons between the two due to the age difference alone (REVIEWS change their benchmarks to keep up with changing hardware and SOFTWARE so it'd be hard to find a review using the same benchmark for two chips separated by a few years) but I would say they'd be fairly close, you may find the Intel is even a little faster.
As the CPU is definitely quicker than the AMD I would be inclined to pick the Intel system.Thanks for the suggestion. I actually found out today that the game has a port for Linux that I wasnt aware of and it runs pretty decent on the Intel system with Linux Mint 17.1 on 4GB RAM whereas the same game on the Athlon II with 3GB RAM and Windows 7 runs noticeably worse, so it looks like the Intel will be coming with me on the road trip. Additionally the Intel pumps out far less heat than the AMD even though both are 35 watt TDP systems.

Thanks for info on the benchmarks too... I though they just added all CPU's to a score matrix database and no matter what combination of comparison you'd end up with one vs another. But given the info is scarce from google you must be correct on this statement. Passmark I know has where you can look up individual CPU and GPU score data to compare, but the Intel HD Graphics was lacking for info. My one brother stated that he thinks its the 4000 or 5000 series Intel HD that the Celeron M1000 has on the die. But anyways I know which laptop will be going with me on the trip the newer low end processing power one.

Hello, I recently dropped my laptop, and it shut off upon impact. Powered back up fine. All seemed OK. But the problem I am now having, is my CPU won't go over 0.90GHz. it's been that way since it happened. Expect for today, it was running full speed all day, like it did before the accident.  But, my laptop RAN out of battery and went into I believe, Hibernation, and when it booted back on, it was back to being stuck at 0.90ghz. The power setting is on high performance, and I clean the dust regularly, and by holding the fan from spinning when I air dust it. I tried (1) Rebooting (2) removing the battery and rebooting, hoping that my old battery might be the issue. But sadly, It is running still at less than half speed.
This laptop specs are:
Acer Aspire 4339.
Win 8.1 pro 64-bit
Intel Celeron P4600 Dual core 2.00GHz
I can list any more specs if needed. I am not sure, but I am hoping this laptop can be saved. I read ELSEWHERE online, someone had a similar problem and it was caused by the "thermal paste".
I knew when it was running slow after it dropped, that that had to be why, but today it was running speeds of 1.9GHz for me all day, and worked just like it used to. I look forward to reading if there is or isn't anything I can do to fix this issue. TY in advance for anyone who donates their time to read and/or posts replies.


    Have you checked your CPU temperature since the incident?  It's possible that the cooler has been knocked loose or damaged, causing the CPU to throttle back to prevent overheating.  You can check this with HWMonitor - http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html - which will also monitor your CPU clock speed and show min/max per session, so you can also use it to keep an eye on WHETHER your CPU is "sticking" at that speed or whether it does ever go to full speed.Hello ty for reply. I ran CPUID, and while it was sticking at 0.90GHz, it was SAYING the CPU cores were at a temp of 114-116F, then the PC locked up (never happened this way before), so I had to force shut down. When I powered it back on, the CPU's were running at 1.97GHz again, and the tempes were in the 1127-135F range.  That seems extremely Hot to me, is this a bad thing?

**EDIT**
The CPU is running fast again now.  Not sure how long it maintain this and go back to 0.90GHz. It never did this before I dropped it.I see a trip to a repair shop in TylerDoom's future.
Agreed....he should also stop using it til then.Does this sound like anything in particular to you all? Maybe the fan/heatsink, or mobo? I would prefer to back up files and attempt to repair myself if I could narrow down PARTS to try and replace. I am a beginner with pc repairs, but this laptop is old enough that I wouldn't mind giving it a go. If your 1st priority is the data remove the HDD and get an external enclosure for it...hook it up to a working desktop and grab your files.

As far as working on it it's likely the fan and or the CPU have gotten dis-loged causing the overheating.
If your gonna do it yourself i suggest looking up some videos on dis-assembly of that model...they can be tricky.

My old PC running Windows XP has finally died but I TOOK out the HARD drive to save my data.
I am now running windows 7
How do I find out what kind of "external enclosure" to buy so I can PLUG into a usb PORT and access my data on the old XP hard drive?Does this hard drive have 2 rows of pins about 40 pins with another set of pins for MA/SL/CS as a PATA ( IDE ) drive or is it the newer SATA drive with a smaller data connection that has a plastic strip with gold contacts?

Also did this come out of a desktop computer or a laptop... Desktop computers usually use the larger 3.5" drives where as the laptops use 2.5" or sometimes smaller 1.8" drives etc


Here are desktop computer external enclosure options:

3.5" IDE http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182153&cm_re=ide_external_enclosure-_-17-182-153-_-Product

3.5" SATA (NOTE: There are cheaper ones out there, but this one I like the cooling fan in so you dont roast your sata drive * I have 3 of these and they work well to keep drive cool for large long running data transfers ) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0722KG3243&cm_re=sata_external_enclosure-_-17-173-042-_-Product


Here are laptop external enclosure options:

2.5" IDE http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA10V2GV5057&cm_re=ide_external_enclosure-_-17-155-704-_-Product

2.5" SATA http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817392032&cm_re=sata_external_enclosure-_-17-392-032-_-Product

I recently changed my motherboard to a Gigabyte one. Before the Gigabyte logo appears, there is a black screen standing there for ~30 seconds. I can't FIND fastboot to skip it either. What should I do? If it matters: 6 GB RAM, 4GHz AMD A series, AMD Radeon R7 240 4GB DDR3. How to fix this?Start with a 'bench test' of your motherboard. strip it down to the bare minimum thugs to LET it boot. USE the built in VGA monitor port, it it has one. No GPA card. No RAM but one stick. No printer, no CD-rom no HDD. No keyboard, no mouse.
It should boot quicker and get the 'no keyboard' error.
After that, start adding things. Also, try the default settings in BIOS. Does the board have the right time and date?

It has the right time and date. I can't connect my monitor to the motherboard cause it has the wrong adaptor. It's not the normal DVI adaptor like in video cards!OK. The intent was to  rule out a compatibility issue.
How fast does it start with one RAM stick?

Perhaps a good place to start would be to give information About the model of Gigabyte motherboard, memory , cpu , etc. Some bios REVISIONS did that so the bios revision could help. You can see the bios revision on the page after the Gigabyte logo when the board starts.Gigabyte F2A55-DS3. I don't know wich RAM stick to pull out cause one is more chippy and the oter one is not so chippy."Chippy" ? ?Full of chips.Remove either one for testing. Quote from: antoniu200 on August 14, 2015, 11:04:25 AM

Full of chips.

LOL

hi have a emachine T1742 the usb port is not detected ,i enabled the legacy usb in the cmos and it still dont work i ALSO install update DRIVERS and it still dont work  How many ports (front and back) do you have?  Do none of them work?  You say you enabled "legacy usb" in CMOS Setup. Are there any other USB settings in your BIOS?

If all else fails, one OPTION to get USB is usb 2 card, PCIit have 6 ports 4 at the back and 2 at the front and none of them work , no there is no more usb setting in the boisDoes your Device Manager show a list of items under Universal Serial Bus controllers?  Does it report them as working properly?  

Quote

If all else fails, one option to get USB is usb 2 card, PCI

If all else fails, one option to get USB is usb 2 card, PCI

Here is my dilemma... I am building my first computer. TURNING out to be the first mistake lol. Here is the list of hardware I bought. All purchased from Newegg.com.

APEVIA X-Plorer ATXB8KLW-GN Black/Green Steel ATX MID Tower Computer Case
AMD Athlon 64 X2 3600+ Brisbane 1.9GHz Socket AM2 Processor Model ADO3600IAA5DL  
BIOSTAR TFORCE 550 Socket AM2 NVIDIA nForce 550 MCP ATX AMD Motherboard  
SAPPHIRE 100145L-GN Radeon X1600PRO 512MB GDDR2 PCI Express x16 CrossFire Video Card
PHILIPS 16X DVD±R DVD Burner With 5X DVD-RAM Write 2-Tone ATAPI/E-IDE Model SPD2410BD/17
ZALMAN CNPS 9500 AM2 2 Ball CPU Cooling Fan/Heatsink
APEVIA ATX-CW500WP4 ATX 500W Power Supply
Western Digital Caviar SE WD1600JBRTL 160GB 7200 RPM IDE Ultra ATA100 Hard Drive
CORSAIR ValueSelect 1GB 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 667 (PC2 5300) Desktop MEMORY Model VS1GB667D2

My 2 problems, thus far, are that the DVD drive doesn't open or shut when pushing the open button. The second problem is what I'm more concerned about. I can't get my monitor to display anything. The motherboard does NOT have on-board video and when CONNECTING the monitor to the video card, nothing is displayed. Monitor reads No Signal. Computer boots up, HD spins, green light goes on for the DVD, but no picture and the DVD doesn't open. Seems like everything else is working properly. However, one of my online friends had said that it is supposed to beep. That there is supposed to be a wire from the case to the MoBo for a speaker so that it can give Bios beeps?? Don't know about that. Can't find any such wires. I do see the pins on the MoBo for it, but can't find the wires to hook to it. Double CHECKED power wires and all. HD is set to Master, DVD set to slave. They are on the same IDE cable. There is only on IDE oulet on the MoBo. Can't think of anything to describe that would help. Someone please help me. I'm am completely distraught.   Thanks!
~Tandiey~
Strip the system of everything but the motherboard / video / RAM.  Boot the system.  Do you POST (beeps when starting)?  If so, start adding one component at a time, starting with the keyboard, mouse, etc., until the system fails.  Usually the last component installed is the cuprit...though not always.
 
Alan <><  :-)

BTW - many systems come with the speaker mounted on the motherboard

ok FIRST of all hello, 1st post.
my burner got jammed a while ago and i sent it to to get taken apart and they put it back on the track or whatever, and it ejects now. problem is as soon as i turn my computer on it ejects, and when i close it it pops back out. once windows is up and running i try put a cd in it, close it and it pops back out still. device manager says the drive is working properly but it wont stay in and even if i hold it in it wont read the cd. Could they have screwed SUMTHIN up inside thats not letting it close all the way or whats wrong here? i read the faq but nothing like this is in there, lol.  any help is appreciated   i dont REALLY feel like takeing it apart if i dont have to :-?

thanks [/move[move]]/me The drive is defective.    Replace it.  

Alan <><  

PS - I hope you didn't pay to have it "fixed"  because it isn't.  How much did you have to pay to get it fixed???  If I were you I WOULD be taken it back that is for sure!!!!You definitely want to get your money back or demand that they completely fix it without any extra charges.  I'm betting that it would probably would've been cheaper to simply replace the drive (about $40 on average).  With some help from us, of course, if you don't know how to install it.thanks for the input, doesnt surprise me that its F'D up cause its been sitting for years.. i only payed 25 CDN and they looked at my whole computer so im not too worried about that, does someone know a good site to buy off of online? if so link me plz 8-)I'm glad to hear you didn't pay too much.  Definitely sounds like you got what you paid for, though.

I think most people here will agree that Newegg is one of the better SITES around.  And, of course, if you need help with choosing a good drive, the fine people here will be happy to give you some advice/input.

I have an Epson C88 printer, not used very much, one year old. It has started to print web pages with a solid, dark gray area behind the print area. these BLOCKS are precisely 1 inch high, the left edge and right edge are controlled by the leftmost and RIGHTMOST charter being printed in that particular block. Graphics and headings elements are handled in their own individual blocks and do overlap as necessary to put the included element in the proper place on the page.

I've never seen this before in 30 years of working with these things and if you haven't seen this condition you may not comprehend my attempt to describe it. My hope is that someone has seen this condition before and has a clue about it.
 :-?Turn off headers and footers in print CONTROL...

I HAVE INSTALLED MAXTOR 80 GB DRIVE IN MY COMPAQ PC. IT SHOWS UP IN BIOS & IN MY CONTROL PANEL DEVICE MGR., BUT DOESN'T SHOW IN MY COMPUTER. ANY IDEAS WHYTHIS IS HAPPENING? THANKS!Did it break your caps lock buttton ? ?

A new drive has to be FORMATTED for WINDOWS to recognise it.

Use the utilities that shipped with the HDD or DLoad them from the manuf. website.

I haven't been using my computer for quite some time. You can say for like 2 weeks or so. It was all good, everything was working properly and all of the sudden, when I turned it on, all good and that, but when I would WANT to scroll up and down with the MOUSE wheel, it would instead of go to the up side, go to the down, when I want it to go down, it GOES up, it's so annoying, it AFFECTS my entire computer, even with games. Help?Check the SETTINGS in Control Panel/Mouse...
If it's wireless try fresh batteries...Doesn't work. But I appreciate the reply.Replace it then...When I get a new one, I will. Till then, any other suggestions?

Does anybody know the purpose of these HIGH speed usb 3.0 MALE cables comin out the back of my computer.  I can't really tell what they are connected too.  Potentially the motherboard?  I'm running Maximus hero vii, Intel i7 4790k, GeForce gtx 980.   I've attached a picture for reference.

Regards

[attachment deleted by ADMIN to conserve space]They will connect to the FRONT USB 3.0 ports on your case, connect them to a PAIR of your rear USB ports for them to work.Awesome thanks.  So they plug just straight into any usb 3.0 in the back to activate the 3.0 in the front.  Gotcha.  Is that all they serve? And is there a preferred slot they should be in.  See the documentation. Your motherboard has extra pins for them.
Quote from: Hheych on August 09, 2015, 03:21:42 PM

Awesome thanks.  So they plug just straight into any usb 3.0 in the back to activate the 3.0 in the front.  Gotcha.  Is that all they serve? And is there a preferred slot they should be in.

Your motherboard has extra pins for them.

They will connect to the front USB 3.0 ports on your case, connect them to a pair of your rear USB ports for them to work.