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seeking info from anyone who has the Raid O configure on their home PC and if the BENEFITS "are there"....

Have you had any crashes or snags from this setup?
Is the speed on boot-up NOTICEABLE and game PLAY ?

THANKS

Hi

Using Windows XP home.

I've been using two monitors on my PC but now need to move back to one. I used to plug my main monitor into the Gforce video card and the other into the motherboard connection. I now want to RETURN to a very simple 1 monitor setup but just can't get it right. It keeps looking for a second monitor. I've tried uninstalling and disabling the Gforce card but doesn't work.

Do I SOMEWHERE have to set my PRIMARY monitor connection?

About 10 days ago, I did a sync of my iPod, shut down my computer, and went on a business trip.  After I got back, I tried to sync my iPod, but couldn't.  When iTunes SEES the iPod, which it doesn't always, it gives me a message that the iPod may be corrupted and needs to be RESTORED, or that it is not formatted for windows, neither of which is true as I can successfully sync the iPod on my computer at work, and it runs fine.  When I plug the iPod in, it is sometimes seen with explorer, and sometimes not.  I have ALSO tried to find it with Disk Management, and on the couple of occassions when it has been listed, Disk Management says it is an unreadable device.  The iPod help website suggests that you change the drive letter for the iPod through Disk Management, but as Disk Management says it is an unreadable device, it won't let me do that.  I've tried to use other USB ports (the computer has 5), but I still have the same problem.  Any ideas as to why windows on this one computer just doesn't want to recognize my iPod anymore and what I can do to fix it?Try using device manager to uninstall the iPod drivers.
And check the USB plug for dust or damage.Is Vista by any chance involved here ?
If so, iPod is not yet 100% compatible with all flavors of Vista.Honestly, I didn't know you could use iPod for another computer.  When I try to use my girlfriend's iPod on my computer, it always says I have to format it and wipe out all of the existing music.  Happened on my old computer too.  Have you done this before without having any problems?Calum,
When device driver sees it, it either says there are no drivers associated with the device, or it recognizez it as an iPod and says it's working fine.
I've uninstalled and reinstalled the iTunes software twice with no luck.
Sometimes it will sync for awhile, and then just quit, and other times I just get a message that the device is corrupted.

CBMATT,
If you have 2 computers you can install iTunes on both, and sync your iPod, BUT when you sync the iPod on computer #1 and then go to sync it on computer #2, you will get a message from computer #2 that everything on the iPod will be deleted and replaced with what computer #2 has.  As I mostly use it for podcasts, there is no problem as I just subscribe to the same podcasts on both machines.What about uninstalling the drivers in device manager?
Right click --> Uninstall.I'll try that over the weekend.
My only concern is reloading the drivers.  I presume that after the drivers are deleted, I just reboot the computer, attach the iPod, and let Windows find and reinstall them, and if that doesn't work, unistall iTunes, reboot, reinstall iTunes, and then attach the iPod and let Windows find the drivers.  Correct?

Also, while I have your attention, Dell computers come with monitoring software that pops up messages on occassion about potential problems it detects.  I recently got such a message stating that the virtual memory was low, and asking did I want Dell to correct the problem.  I said yes, and then a day later when I tried to download pictures from my digital camera, it would only download a handfull at a time, which led me to believe that the VM may be too low.  I reset the VM to allow Windows to decide what the best setting should be, and then tried downloading the pictures again.  This time they all downloaded without a problem.
My question to you is, should I leave the VM settings alone, or is there a more optimal setting I should be using?  The computer has 1.750 gigs of RAM and I've read that the VM should be set at 2.5 times the amount of RAM.  What does your very knowledgeable mind think?   :-? Quote

My only concern is reloading the drivers.  I presume that after the drivers are deleted, I just reboot the computer, attach the iPod, and let Windows find and reinstall them, and if that doesn't work, unistall iTunes, reboot, reinstall iTunes, and then attach the iPod and let Windows find the drivers.  Correct?

You all might remember back around the holidays I was driving poor Fed up the wall with a lot of questions about video drivers, Direct X, and my problems with Guild Wars.

Well, long story short, it was determined that the integrated video on my Emachines W3052 was bad, and a friend sent me a nice new video card to go into my AGP slot.  The card is an ATI Radeon 9500 Pro...not new, but looks to be in okay shape.  He works with computers for a living, so I assume he knows what he's doing.

So it arrived today, and I installed it this evening and tried to run the computer with it.  Nothing.  The operating system wouldn't even boot...the monitor's LED just sat there blinking as it will when the comp is in standby.  I called my friend, he advised me to disconnect the VGA cord from the back of the card and reattach it to the original outlet on the back of the comp.  Then after rebooting I was getting a message on the monitor..."NO SIGNAL".  Although this time the operating system was trying to boot...I could hear the Windows start-up music.

On my friend's advice I shut everything back down, removed the card, hooked everything back up as it originally was, and all is well.  Oh, and the card itself is functional...I left the side panel off and checked to see if its fan was running...it was.  

Right now I'm being advised by another friend to reboot into BIOS and change the primary display to AGP, then save, shut down, install the card, then start up again.  I'm checking with you folks to see if this seems to be the next step to take...I'll be checking with Emachines tech support to see exactly how to reboot into BIOS.  I described the issue in so much detail because I might be missing something.  I won't be attempting this tonight in any case, too tired.  But I get the best help right here, so I'm turning to you again.

Thanks,

Tanith  
Right now I'm being advised by another friend to reboot into BIOS [highlight]and change the primary display[/highlight] to AGP, then save, shut down, install the card, then start up again.  I'm checking with you folks to see if this seems to be the next step to take

Thats what I did with my emachines to get my card  RECOGNIZED,  that should do it.
And it would be important to know if your power supply is up to the challenge. What is the make and wattage printed on it?Hmm...with the help of another techie friend, we think my power supply might be 250W (no clue about the manufacturer, at least not yet).  He tells me that 300W is recommended for this card, but that it should work with the lower wattage.  He says replacing the power supply is cheap and easy, though.

The only sticker I can see on the power supply is the size of a dime, on the other end of it, and unreadable with everything hooked up.  I'm going to shut everything down in a few and investigate further.  I  need a magnifying glass to check out the power supply, for one thing.

Tanith   eMachines have notoriously small and bad power supplies that frequently take out motherboards and other components when they FAIL. I would replace that whether or not it is the issue. It may be, and may prevent other EXPENSIVE problems down the road.My friends assure me that doing this is easy and inexpensive, but I'm CONSIDERING having a professional do it.  I worry constantly that I might irreparably botch something.

Tanith   4 screws and removing a few plugs. That's it. Just label or otherwise write down what went where and get a power supply with the right connectors.  

Don't get an "el cheapo" or you will be back in the same position again.Okay, I'll keep that in mind for a future project.  For today I'll try to get into BIOS and see if switching the video to AGP gets me anywhere with the card.  ATM I'm researching how to get in and out of BIOS, which commands to use, etc.  I'm probably being unnecessarily paranoid, but I want to understand exactly what to do before starting.

Tanith   According to Access/Enter Motherboard BIOS, the Del key is the one to access the BIOS on eMachines.  Take some time to browse through the various screens and see what's in there, but be sure not to change anything other than the settings related to video unless you have a reason for other changes and have specific instructions from a reliable source.  And, make note of your current settings for anything you are about to change so that you can go back to the original setting if necessary. Quote

And it would be important to know if your power supply is up to the challenge. What is the make and wattage printed on it?

Hello,

My CPU has lately gone absolutely crazy, its temperature reaching up to 93° Celsius while idle. I do not know its exact model but I know that it is an AMD quad core for an fm2+ socket with 3.4 GHz per core.
My question(s): Do you think my motherboard, a Gigabyte GA-F2A88XM-DS2, has been damaged by my overheating CPU? Is there a way to check? Or is my motherboard somehow at fault for the CPU overheating? Basically: Do I need to replace my motherboard?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks!Heatsink or Thermal compound issue is most likely cause of issue. Motherboard is only bad if system will not behave after temps have been cured or no longer boots and is the direct cause of a failed boot if socket is melted and warped and other issues such as cooked VRMs etc. System should have SHUT itself down due to thermal protection temp reached, but I suppose you could damage system if this thermal protection is not set or available.

Does this system boot anymore or is it acting like its cooked?The system still boots and the socket looks undamaged. The system did shut down repeatedly before I realised that the CPU was overheating. The CPU-fan I have looks pretty dusty and cheap-looking. But surely, EVEN if I have a bad fan, the CPU should not be reaching 93° C while idle??Your still runnin it at those temps ? ?

And where are the Temps bein reported ? ?No, of course I'm not.

And it's in BIOS that I saw the 93° C, which, I take it, is far from normal.Sometimes THERMOCOUPLE can report wrong, but I'd remove the heatsink and clean up the CPU and heatsink of the old paste and then apply NEW thermal compaound and try again with temp measurement. If its 93C immediately, then its probably a bad thermocouple on the CPU. It should be cold and warm up as its on.Ok, thanks for your help!
I'm going to order a new heatsink as I find the current one to be not that great.
If the problem persist, I'll report back.

Thanks again. 

The OP may need some help with this CH topic:
Is there a way to tell how hot my CPU is running?
Quote

The computer must have thermal sensors or an Intel Core Duo processor or later with DTS for you to be able to determine how hot your computer is running. Without the proper sensors, programs designed to MONITOR the temperature of your processor, video card, hard drive, etc. will not work

Intel doesn’t include PCI-Express on its list of interfaces, but at this point, it could. 40Gbps works out to 5GB/s worth of bandwidth — which means Thunderbolt 3 can provide roughly a bit less bandwidth than an older PCI-Express 2.0 connection. The new standard offers support for up to two 4K 60Hz panels or a single 5K 60Hz display (this makes sense, as a 5K 60Hz panel is roughly 1.8x as many pixels as a 4K panel). This works out to an x4 PCI-E 3.0 connection. While not exactly suited for multi-GPU configurations, it should be enough bandwidth to run a single card at near-full speed in the vast majority of case

So can i run Zotac GTX 960 4gb with 9i am not gonna over clock it)this PSU a(s i don't have money to buy new psu) as i am running a GTS 450 overclocked edition right now. And i also have phenom II x4 955BE a 125w cpu in my PC

Specks of PC are

MY system specs are
AMD Phen2om II x4 955BE (125W possessor)
Cooler Master Hyper TX3 (CPU Cooler)
Asus M5A78L-M/ USB3 (motherboard)
Corsair 4GB DD3 1333mhz + Corsair XMS 4GB DDR3 1600Mhz = 8GB(DDR3 RAM)
1TB WD Blue Caviar (Hard Disk)
1 LG DVD Drive
Cooler Master Extreme Power plus 460 (PSU_
two cabinet fan (that came with case)
Sparkale GTS 450 1GB GDDR5 (Advertised MAX TDP 106w)
I deleted your other thread. Please do not post the same question more than once. Thank you.*censored* man it wasn't the same i have bought 950 this one was for 960. S**t man read the question first. watch your MOUTH. If I made a mistake I APOLOGIZE, but there's no excuse for your language or rudeness. Quote from: abhi47 on August 23, 2015, 07:29:52 AM

So can i run Zotac GTX 950 AMP edition (which i am not gonna over clock it)this PSU a(s i don't have money to buy new psu) as i am running a GTS 450 overclocked edition right now. And i also have phenom II x4 955BE a 125w cpu in my PC

Specks of PC are

MY system specs are
AMD Phen2om II x4 955BE (125W possessor)
Cooler Master Hyper TX3 (CPU Cooler)
Asus M5A78L-M/ USB3 (motherboard)
Corsair 4GB DD3 1333mhz + Corsair XMS 4GB DDR3 1600Mhz = 8GB(DDR3 RAM)
1TB WD Blue Caviar (Hard Disk)
1 LG DVD Drive
Cooler Master Extreme Power plus 460 (PSU_
two cabinet fan (that came with case)
Sparkale GTS 450 1GB GDDR5 (Advertised MAX TDP 106w)

I'm preparing to switch over from console to PC, but I'm quite new to the individual parts and which brands are good or not. I had a friend build the parts of the computer for me, but I need it to be about 75$ to 100$ cheaper than it currently is.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/NQg8Bm

It would be used almost entirely for gaming, with the occasional Youtube video here and there. I'd also prefer a Windows 10 OS if possible. I also really like the case, and I'd love if it went with either a full red/black or a blue/black color set. Peripherals not needed.What is the most complex game you plan to run on this?

If you plan to play the game Witcher 3 for example this system just meets the recommended requirements for the CPU even with 8 cores.

One area to save some money would be if you could get by with 4 or 6 core AMD instead on an 8-core AMD. You could shave off almost $100 if you were able to get by with a 4 core ( quadcore ). It all depends on what your going to run for games.  As far as occasional youtube video, I am able to play Youtube through a 13 year old Pentium 4  2Ghz with 1GB 266Mhz DDR RAM, with Geforce 6200 256mb video card for example so Youtube is very very lightweight and only a very very low end modern system would struggle with it if it had too weak of a APU or GPU.Something to consider. Is this a DIY project? What is the objective?
If you are a first time  builder you have to  f ace the possibility of a major failure of a component and the vendor will blame you.   

Suppose you ALREADY have a g pod monitor.
For about $900 more or less  you can get a custom made to order game  PC with 4 core AMD on a Motherboard with 4GB or RAM and 2TB of hard drive. Later you  could upgrade the stock graphics for something better.

Why? barbecue some builders with give you a 2 or even 3 year warranty. Think about it! Bother parts and labor covered.
Disclaimer. I have not had any experience with such vendors.
So  the decision is yours, of course. 
To save money on your current build without compromising performance you could drop down to a 970 chipset based motherboard (I'd stick with ASUS or Gigabyte though).  This would shave off a decent amount.  If it came to it you could also drop down to one of the 6-core AMD FX chips.  Combining these should shave off at least $100 and won't compromise performance too much.

Quote from: Geek-9pm on August 22, 2015, 10:13:27 PM

For about $900 more or less  you can get a custom made to order game  PC with 4 core AMD on a Motherboard with 4GB or RAM and 2TB of hard drive.

I've read your replies and changed my build to meet some of them.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/jt9hpg
I decided to choose a 6-Core, and I dropped the Mobo down a notch. I also found a friend willing to give me the RAM I have in there, so shave 50$ off
....
Oh,  and Geek-9pm, I have to agree with the others. My friend bought a 1200$ computer, and my other friend's(The one who gave me the RAM) 850$ custom built computer nearly doubles it's performance in every category.

SWIM says you can probably chop off $90 by pirating Windows 10 

Hello everyone !

So 1 week ago I got myself a new computer with the FOLLOWING specs:
VIDEO CARD: ASUS Gtx 970 strix 4GB
PROCESSOR: Intel core i5 4690k 3.5 Ghz quad core
MOTHERBOARD: Z97 Gaming 5
RAM: 1 stick of 8 GB
HDD: 1 TB
PSU: 650W Gaming inter-tech

I DOWNLOADED myself some games like dishonored, bioshock infinite, archeage and Max payne. I launched the games and when i started playing my gameplay was really choppy. It was not smooth at all, like it should be. Mouse was moving really slowly but i got 60+ fps in fraps. This is NOT VSync issue. The problem is in aspect ratio and resolution. So i change the aspect ratio in game from 16:9 to 16:10 and i changed resolution from 1920x1080 to 720x480 my screen shrinked and the gameplay was BUTTER smooth and all the problems that i am having went away. I TRIED setting it to 4:3 and the gameplay as butter smooth there as well. After that i thought it was my monitor so i tried 2 different TV screens and i also tried 2 more monitors but everything was the same there as well. Its a really weird issue and im trying to fix it for the past week. I WOULD really really appreciate all the help from you guys !

Thanks ! Just played the game bioshock infinite for 5 min and i monitored my gpu and cpu this is what i got http://imgur.com/02t1tNI,6t0tRXZ,1nNsj1m,UMKe9kT,6IqFWwG,rm9QPZS

My name is Michael.  I know what I need, but I don't know what it's called. 

I have a high quality PTZ camera networked through router, laptop, and Android devices.  I want remote STORAGE in my home.  Something WIRELESS that will store recordings from the came, but not be physically CONNECTED to router or computer.
   I could use a USB external hard DRIVE, but if/when the s**t eating thieves BREAK in and steal the computer, I want the recording stored on a device in a different room.Here is an article about NAS.
How to Buy Network-Attached Storage (NAS)
Some NAS devices can be wireless.

Or, you could use a remote internet storage.
Review Of The Best Cloud Storage Services

Also, go to Amazon, Newegg or other store and look for Wireless Hard Drive.

Figured I'd CHECK here on suggestions for my older gaming system for a video card upgrade. Currently have a ASUS ATI Radeon HD5450 with 512MB DDR3 RAM PCIE card in a motherboard with a PCIE 2.0 SLOT. I tried an upgrade a few years ago to same GPU Sapphire ATI Radeon HD5450 with 1GB DDR3 which was a PCIE 3.0 card and it wouldn't work in this system no matter what I tried. However the video card was completely fine in a newer build with a PCIE 3.0 slot.

I am thinking that I might need to stick with a PCIE 2.0 or 2.1 type card and not a 3.0 card.

Was wondering what people had for video card suggestions for a 2.0 or 2.1 card with a $100 budget.

I also have on order a Phenom II x4 945 3.0Ghz CPU that I bought used for $30 to replace the Athlon 64 x2 4450B 2.3Ghz which is starting to feel crippled with even what should be lightweight modern games.

The motherboard is a Biostar MCP6PB M2+ as seen here: http://www.biostar.com.tw/app/en/mb/introduction.php?S_ID=387#spec

With this Phenom II 945 CPU, and best video card I could get for it for $100 or less, it will be the final upgrade for this system. I have a better AMD FX8350 4Ghz system with a much better video card, but this system is my alt gaming system and trying to get a few more years out of it for gaming without lag for lower end games.

Games played on this old system are:

World of Warcraft
Tera Rising
Allods
Rift
and other free to play mmorpg games

Lastly power supply is a 550 watt EVGA
Looked at newegg and filtered for PCIE 2.0 cards... the best card I could find was the NVidia GT730

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127830   with 1006Mhz Core Clock 384 Cuda Cores and 1GB DDR5  ( but I have little trust in MSI brand )

Also found these others with same GT730 in which I didn't find any better GPU for less than $100 and PCIE 2.0 as well as AMD only has a HD6450 which barely scores better in benchmark info online than that of the HD5450 I already have. Surprisingly there are many Geforce 8400GS's still for sale too and that is worse than the HD5450 I have now.

Here are the 2 others I looked at and not sure why this one below is 902Mhz Core Clock and the last one is 700Mhz core clock and they also vary in Cuda Core count of 384 and 96. The one with less cuda cores and slower clock has 2GB instead of 1GB RAM.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814500367


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814500357


Never seen before a GPU with different core count for the same GPU like this. I am assuming the 902Mhz card is overclocked or superclocked and the 700 Mhz is the base clock ? Is the cuda core count difference a typo in the listing?

My current HD5450 is a passively cooled card and I have a 80MM fan in front of it to keep it cool, so if I have to go with a passively cooled card to avoid MSI, I could. I have had Zotac cards and motherboards before and no problems.You don't need to avoid PCI-E 3.0 cards, they're backwards compatible.
The Geforce 730 is one of those oddball low-end cards that Nvidia has released several versions of to confuse people.  There's a 96-core version based on the GF108 core, clocked at 700MHz with 1/2/4GB of DDR3 VRAM oin a 128-bit bus; a 384-core version based on the GK208 core, clocked at 902MHz with 1/2/4GB of DDR3 VRAM on a 64-bit bus; and a 384-core version based on the GK208 core, clocked at 902MHz with 1GB of GDDR5 VRAM on a 64-bit bus.  That's roughly in order of performance but none of them are intended as gaming cards.

For a $100 budget, you're looking at a GTX 750, a refurbished GTX 750Ti (DECENTLY faster than the 750), or an AMD R7 250X, couple of open box 260X cards available too.Thanks for the clarification on the confusing GT 730 differences.


Also that GTX 750 if I can find one for $100 is way better than the GT 730 in benchmark info.

http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=GeForce+GTX+750

http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=GeForce+GT+730

My main gaming system has an older EVGA GTX 260 with AMD FX8350 8-core CPU and I think I will get the GTX 750 PCI 3.0 and stuff it into that newest system and move this older GTX 260 to the older system. It pairs up the older video card to PCIE 2.0 BUS too and the newer PCIE 3.0 GTX 750 to the more powerful CPU. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130398

I didn't expect to be able to perform a double upgrade through this for $100 and retire that weak AMD Radeon HD 5450.

Thanks for your help with this... Very Cool!!!!  Calum's Da Man ! !... Quote

Calum's Da Man ! !...

Hello,

My name is Vladan and I have had a problem occur yesterday. My internet stopped working.
I immediately tried my phone's wireless connection and saw that it was working fine, so I tried laptop wireless and it too was working. When I plug in my network cable it stops working.
My ethernet internet connection status shows that Ipv4 and Ipv6 have "no internet accsess". It's not just my laptop's wired internet that stopped working, it's the whole network I have in my apartment consisting of two more computers who also lost their wired-ethernet internet accsess. I suspect something is wrong with my router since it relays my internet but wireless works fine so I'm stumped. When I plug in my cable it shows limited connectivity.

I have tried ipconfig /release - /renew, I have tried netsh winsock reset and netsh int ip reset log.txt
I have tried (netsh winsock reset catalog), also I tried (netsh int ipv6 reset reset.log) and it said the following ::::::
Resetting Interface, OK!
Resetting NEIGHBOR, OK!
Resetting Path, OK!
Resetting , failed.
Accsess is denied.

Resetting, OK!
Restart the computer to complete this action.
::::
I don't know what is this "failed and accsess is denied" but it MIGHT be the problem.
I have rebooted my router several times but also with no results. I have checked DHCP settings for both router and laptop adapter and it all checks out. I have check IP filtering and MAC filtering on router and it all looks fine. I use no FIREWALL, nor could that explain the whole network of no wired internet.
The only thing I haven't tried is MS fixit tool, should I? I don't think that would work since it's the entire wired network that is the problem.

My router is Cisco EPC3925 EuroDocsis 3.0
If you need any further information I can provide. I have some IT and Network background so I can follow some advanced instructions.
How can I define the problem and how can I resolve this issue? Any help or assitance would be greatly appreciated.

I have reposted this with some added info and because I used the wrong social tag in my previous post, since it was my first.

Thanks in advance,
VladanHello,

My name is Vladan and I have had a problem occur yesterday. My internet stopped working.
I immediately tried my phone's wireless connection and saw that it was working fine, so I tried laptop wireless and it too was working. When I plug in my network cable it stops working.
My ethernet internet connection status shows that Ipv4 and Ipv6 have "no internet accsess". It's not just my laptop's wired internet that stopped working, it's the whole network I have in my apartment consisting of two more computers who also lost their wired-ethernet internet accsess. I suspect something is wrong with my router since it relays my internet but wireless works fine so I'm stumped. When I plug in my cable it shows limited connectivity.

I have tried ipconfig /release - /renew, I have tried netsh winsock reset and netsh int ip reset log.txt
I have tried (netsh winsock reset catalog), also I tried (netsh int ipv6 reset reset.log) and it said the following ::::::
Resetting Interface, OK!
Resetting Neighbor, OK!
Resetting Path, OK!
Resetting , failed.
Accsess is denied.

Resetting, OK!
Restart the computer to complete this action.
::::
I don't know what is this "failed and accsess is denied" but it might be the problem.
I have rebooted my router several times but also with no results. I have checked DHCP settings for both router and laptop adapter and it all checks out. I have check IP filtering and MAC filtering on router and it all looks fine. I use no firewall, nor could that explain the whole network of no wired internet.
The only thing I haven't tried is MS fixit tool, should I? I don't think that would work since it's the entire wired network that is the problem.

My router is Cisco EPC3925 EuroDocsis 3.0
If you need any further information I can provide. I have some IT and Network background so I can follow some advanced instructions.
How can I define the problem and how can I resolve this issue? Any help or assitance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
VladanDid your ISP give you this router such as your leasing it etc? If so contact them for a replacement.

If you own this router then I'd try factory reset button to set it back to factory default. If that doesn't cure this then buy a new router. They are pretty cheap these days.

Your router could have been hacked, the access denied is strange! Quote from: DaveLembke on September 02, 2015, 03:59:37 PM

Did your ISP give you this router such as your leasing it etc? If so contact them for a replacement.

If you own this router then I'd try factory reset button to set it back to factory default. If that doesn't cure this then buy a new router. They are pretty cheap these days.

Your router could have been hacked, the access denied is strange!

I have messed up with BIOS, and now pc wont boot, it's stuck at "starting windwos", disconnecting the CMOS battery is not helping, what to do? is my comptuer done? Not ALWAYS hopeless. You need to tell what your did.
First give the name and model of the motherboard, if possible.
Then please tell if this is a home-built, a ready made desktop or laptop.
Without the details, it is hard to give a correct answer.
But what you describe does not sound like a full BIOS disaster, just a incorrect setting. MAYBE. It's in the details. 





EXACTLY what did you do? Quote from: User200015 on September 01, 2015, 12:38:15 PM

I have messed up with BIOS, and now pc wont boot, it's stuck at "starting windwos", disconnecting the CMOS battery is not helping, what to do? is my comptuer done?

I own a Dell Inspiron 1525, it has a hard drivehttp://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005T3GRLY/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1440976907&sr=1-6&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70 am unsure what OS to use my budget is infinit and I have the discs for . xp, 7, or vista.Strange question. Use the latest OS you you have a legal license for.
Not sure how to advise you.  You say you have the disks for XP, 7 & Vista.  Between those three I would choose 7.  You then say your budget is INFINITE so in that case you may want to consider buying a copy of Win 10 and doing a clean install.  You have ENOUGH disk space to do something like dual boot  7 and 10.  Another option would be to install 7 then do the free upgrade to 10 to see if you like it, if not, roll it back to 7.

In order to get better advice, you need to tell us what you use your machine for.  Is it for gaming? Development?  Word processing? No need for him to purchase Win 10 if he has Win7 already...If you read what I said, he could also install 7 first and then do the upgrade but since he has an infinite budget, he might want to forgo the upgrade and buy Win 10 out RIGHT thus no need to do an upgrade. Quote from: strollin on August 31, 2015, 10:36:18 AM

since he has an infinite budget, he might want to forgo the upgrade and buy Win 10 out right thus no need to do an upgrade.

You can do a fresh install of free Windows 10 onto a machine that has a qualifying OS install. No need to spend money.

Hi, I plugged my LAPTOP to the wrong voltage 21 V instead of 17 V and I fried something because of the smell. I plugged the adapter later & the lights flashed & there was no power on the laptop, I already replaced the motherboard but I get the FLASHING lihgts & no power too. What else can I do?You replaced the MBoard and it still doesn't work ? ?
Is this a used MBoard ?No, it's a new oneThis may seem cynical. Sorry. But in hind sight would have been BETTER to let someone else repair the laptop. Still, you might sell the laptop for parts and go buy a used laptop of the same type.

Do I need to secure the motherboard with all the screws back so it's grounded before I TURN on the laptop?Did you try this without the battery connected. Just in case 21V tombstoned your battery.

Hello everyone, Who can help me to fix my dell E773c monitor there's something appear in the middle of my monitor screen it is LUMINANCE  under of that word is Temperatura. And there's another one Before the Luminance Temperatura the Contrast 100 is appear first.Is the menu popping up on its own without selecting it? Have heard of some Dell monitors having where the menu for ADJUSTMENT would keep popping up on its own. And it was a bad capacitor on the board causing ripple.

Otherwise if this is not the case, PLEASE DEFINE BETTER what the problem is. Its not quite clear.

Hello

I am having TROUBLE installing an Epson wireless printer on Win 7. Basically, Windows cannot connect to the printer.

I have reinstalled the printer software and restarted the router (D-Link DSL).

Epson has said I need to:

Check that the Wi-Fi communication mode (IEEE802.11*) set for your wireless router (the access point) matches the one supported by your printer. (*Display varies according to your location.)

Where would I find those communication modes, please?

THANKS!Which Epson printer?
Did you follow the instructors on the CD that came with the printer?
Are you able to do a test connection using the USB cable?
Can you provide a link to the Epson manual? That way others can guide you thorough the steps.
Thanks for your reply.

It seems that the wireless printer will print with a LAN cable, but not wirelessly.

Yes, I have followed the instructions and even spoken to Epson online chat (not too helpful).

The printer icon - it's an Epson XP-225 - is in Device Manager with a green tick alongside it.

The Epson support page is here: http://www.epson.co.uk/gb/en/viewcon/corporatesite/support

(two manuals if you scroll down to the bottom).

The user manual is here: ftp://download.epson-europe.com/pub/download/3789/epson378919eu.pdf

I now have the IP address of the router and can access its software through my browser. If I log-in there, what should I be looking for in terms of the printer - an ID, IP address, name of the printer, etc? If I can locate the IP address of the printer, should it be the same as the IP address of the computer?

Thanks again.Hello

If I connect with a cable, I can print - I can see the green tick in Printers/Devices.

Without a cable, I can also see a tick, but when I try to print it says 'Not ready'.

When I try to access the router via the IP address, it just HANGS forever. I thought it was an IE thing so downloaded Safari on Windows, but same thing - it just hangs.

Thanks for your help. Quote from: High1 on AUGUST 31, 2015, 04:42:51 PM

It seems that the wireless printer will print with a LAN cable, but not wirelessly.

He needs to enable file and print sharing...

At one of the places I volunteer there is an old HP media center PC (forgot to write down the model) connected to a HP LaserJet 2300d printer.
Still running XP, that's how old. The printer is connected by USB.

For years the PC and printer have worked together with no problems. Recently the connection between them has failed, as if they are no longer connected. I have checked the printer and it seems fine. It prints the test page with no problems. There are no print jobs in the queue.
I have checked the connections between the PC and printer and they are connected as usual.
When I select a document to print, and click on print, nothing happens.

Can anyone tell me what steps to take to diagnose the problem?
Thanks for any replies.Check to make sure the printer is still set as the default.I can't remember if I checked that it was still set as the default.
Only 3 or 4 people use that machine, and rarely even use it, and I doubt they would know where to look to see if it was the default or how to change it.
I won't be able to get there again til Tuesday.

In the meantime if anyone has other suggestions please let me know.The model of the PC is HP Media Center m7350n.

The printer is set as default (lpt1).

I ran the Windows troubleshooter for the printer. Nothing helped. Took an hour to go through the steps. Even uninstalled and reinstalled the port driver. Do you get an error message when you try to print?
Go to control panel. Look in the printers. Does it show up there?
Did you try another USB cable?
Did you try to install again on another USB port?
Can  the printer work on another computer?
Can you install another printer?


Q. Do you get an error message when you try to print? A. No.

Q. Go to control panel. Look in the printers. Does it show up there? A. No.

Q. Did you try another USB cable? A. I have to use the special cable for this printer.

Q. Did you try to install again on another USB port? A. No. I'll try this.

Q. Can  the printer work on another computer? A. There is no other computer in this office or nearby.

Q. Can you install another printer? A. There is another printer. But it's a new one and I'm not sure it COULD work with an XP machine. I can check. One more detail I made an error about: The connection between the PC and printer is not USB, it's parallel.

I'm going to try to find the installation CD-ROM and see if I can reinstall the Windows printing system software for direct connection.
If I can't find it is there a way to find that software online?Yes...at the printer Manuf. site.Here's the downloads site for the printer in question:
http://h20565.www2.hp.com/hpsc/swd/public/readIndex?sp4ts.oid=238807&swLangOid=8&swEnvOid=228
OS is XP 32 bit.
None of the downloads on this page seem to be the Windows printing system software for direct connection.How do you know?
How many did you try?
BTW: did you confirm that your computer has the port enabled?
See attachment.


[attachment deleted by admin to CONSERVE space]I'm not going to install anything except what is identified by what I need, the Windows printing system software for direct connection. None of the downloads appears to be that. From the brief descriptions of the downloads, they seem to be mainly drivers and a resource kit.

Yes the lpt1 is listed in the ports.Good. Let's review.
It is a HP  Laser-jet 2300d printer.
It uses the parallel  cable.
The OS is Windows XP 32 bit.
The printer had been working.
The LPT1 port is pretest in device manager.

The recommended drive is the HP universal driver for that printer and XP.
The term "Windows printing system software for direct connection" In not in the HP commentary.

Even without a driver present, Windows should identify the HP printer when you turn off and on the HP Laser-jet power switch.
Verify the cables integrity and the Verify the printer's usability. This is done with   another computer with the same kine of LPT connector.

Buying a new printer is not a reasonable solution in this case. The HP printer is a high capacity printer for business use and would cost about $200 to replace.

If you are sure the cable is fine, then there are few options at this point.









The HP 2300 user guide is at
http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/bpl13151.pdf

On p. 16 you will find the Windows printing system software for direct connection section.

I have checked the cables several times. Unfortunately there is no other computer here. If there was maybe it would have to be running xp.

I checked again by opening the case where the parallel cable is on the printer. It was a little loose and there was a small wire sticking out a few inches. Maybe its a ground wire. But I cannot see where it would be attached. Edit: It must be a ground wire, so I reattached it.

One of the potential problems is that the printer might not be getting enough power. I checked and it was plugged into a power strip with the computer and another peripheral. So I pulled out the printer power cable and put it in its own outlet. This of course turned it off and when plugged back in it had to reinitialize. I tried another test page from the computer and it went through the normal procedure of setting up the print but no page was printed and the printer was silent.

Your are right. The PDF manual talks about:
Quote

Installing Windows printing system software for direct  connections
This section explains how to install the printing system software for MICROSOFT Windows 95, Windows 98, Windows Me, Windows NT 4.0, Windows 2000, and Windows XP.
When installing the printing software in a direct-connect environment, always install the software before connecting the parallel or USB cable. If the parallel or USB cable was connected before  the software installation,
...
Either a parallel or USB cable can be used for the direct connection. You
cannot  connect parallel and USB cables at the same time. Use an IEEE 1284-compatible cable or a standard  2-meter USB cable.
Windows 95 and NT 4.0 do not support USB cable connections

My computer keeps unsuspectingly shuts down. Just all of a sudden, like being unplugged. At first thought it was OVERHEATING so I added a fan, no difference, then I got a new power supply 650W, no difference at all. It's beyond warranty, but I have lifetime 24/7 tech support. They told me to bring it up in DOS only and see if it shuts down.... it never did; was on for a solid week...called them back and they said it had to be a software problem or to call windows. I Noticed in Windows 7, did not have this issue, Windows 8 it started doing this, upgraded to Windows 10 still shutting down.
I am to the point of seeking help on internet which is confusing me even more because everywhere I look the answer seems to be it's the motherboard.

Here are my current specs:

CPU
• 64bit AMD® PHENOM II CPU.

Hyper Transport Bus

• HyperTransport 3.0 supporting speed up to 2.6GHz

Chipset

• AMD® 760G and SB710 Chipset

 

Main Memory

• Supports four unbuffered DIMM of 1.5 Volt DDR3 800/1066/1333/1600*(OC) SDRAM, 16GB Max

 

Slots

• 1 PCI Express x16 slot (PCI Express Bus SPEC V2.0 compliant)
• 1 PCI Express x1 slot
• 2 PCI slots, support 3.3V/ 5V PCI bus Interface.

On-Board IDE

• One IDE port by AMD® SB710
- Supports Ultra DMA 66/100/133 mode
- Supports PIO, Bus Master operation mode
- Can connect up to two IDE devices

On-Board SATA

• 5 SATA II ports by AMD® SB710
• 1 eSATA II port by AMD® SB710
- Supports storage and DATA transfers at up to 3Gb/s


RAID Function

- SATA II 1~5 support RAID 0, 1, 0+1 or JBOD mode by AMD® SB710

 Audio

• Chipset integrated by Realtek® High-End Audio chipset
- True Blu-ray Audio Support
- Flexible 8-channel audio with jack sensing
- Compliant with Azalia 1.0 Spec

 LAN

• Realtek PCI-E GbLAN controller 8111DL
- Integrated Fast Ethernet MAC and PHY in single chip
- Supports 10Mb/s, 100Mb/s and 1000Mb/s
- Compliance with PCI-Express Bus specification v1.0a

Internal I/O Connectors

- ATX 24-pin power connector
- ATX 4-pin 12V CPU power connector
- CPU x 1 / System x 1 FAN connectors
- CD-in connector
- Front panel audio connector
- Front panel connector
- Chassis intrusion switch connector
- 3 x USB 2.0 connector support additional 6 ports
- 1 x Floppy disk drive connector
- 5 x Serial ATA II connectors
- 1 x ATA133 connector
- 1 x SPDIF-out connector
- 1 x Serial port connector
- 1 x Parallel port connector
- Clear CMOS jumper
- OC Switch
- 1 x TPM module header

 Back Panel I/O Ports

 
- 1 x PS/2 keyboard or mouse
- 1 x 6 in 1 audio jack
- 6 x USB 2.0 ports
- 1 x RJ45 LAN jack
- 1 x eSATA port
- 1 x DVI-D port
- 1 x Graphic Card port
- 1 x HDMI port
 
I just want to find a motherboard comparible to this one preferrably with the processor installed allready....see them all over Ebay.....
Or, if possible FIX THE PROBLEM
 

Does it shut down when in the middle of games and/or USING it or you walk away and it shuts down?

If you walk away and it shuts down then it might be power management for windows set to sleep, hibernation, etc if not in use to where with incorrect driver etc you can have your system crash instead of GOING to sleep etc.When I am using it, not just games.... but writing an email, etc. whatever.... bought new power supply... increased wattage to 650.... no difference
Also, little odd.... don't ever remember it doing it in win7..What OS are you using?
Currently os 10

Here's my set up
Corsair 760t case
MSI Z97x gaming 3 MOBO
i7 4790k - Non OC
Noctua NH-D14
HGST 4TB HDD for files
Samsung 850 PRO 512gb for O.S and running my programs
Corsair 750w PSU
MSI 970 gaming 4 GPU - Non OC
LG optical drive
Rosewill card reader
kingwin fan controller
Windows 7 64bit
Kaspersky A.V
CC cleaner

This is my 1ST build. Let me tell you I had a blast doing this and learned a lot from all of you. Thanks.

I will be running 3 monitors.
Not all 3 monitors will match. But Oh well. Not right away anyways.. Maybe down the road they will.

These are the 3 monitors I have
24" Acer 144hz
And 2 old 19" 60hz monitor that came with a computer some point in time.
I am planning to ditch 1 of the 19" monitors.

But I'd like to get a great quality, value, size resolution monitor for the center of my setup.

I was thinking orignaly 27" 1440 overclocked Qnix.
27"+ 1440 60hz
27"+ 2560 <--- that's 4 k right..?)

...........................
I built this computer with the intent of challenging myself to build a computer. I did it. And IMHO I did pretty well.
What do I use this computer for...? Mostly internet browsing, internet videos, home pictures and videos ( might like to get into EDITING home pics and vids. someday...) and right now minimal gaming. But I def. want to get into gaming. How serious and hardcore will I be. Not much.
_________________________
I would really like this next monitor to be the center piece of my 3 monitors. And all 3 will need to run off my single MSI 970 GPU.
________________________
Can my GPU run 2k? 4k?
Can my monitor run 2K or 4K when the other 2 monitors are running 1080?

So heres where Im ?
4k with my setup and 60hz and probally a lower FPS
2k?
or 1080?

Again this time I do minimal to most gaming. ( we just had a baby, so I have ZERO free time ). But I would like to dabble in games. But I will not be a hardcore addict either.

-------------------------
I know my computer set-up is overkill for what I do.
I know I have a 144hz monitor and dont do much gaming. <--- but it was on a great sale.

HELP me max out my potential from my 970 GPU


Thanks everyone.

Hopefully no bashing please.Terms like 2k and 4k are confusing.  A 4k monitor has a resolution of 3820x2160, you then get monitors that are 2560x1440 which is sometimes called 2k but this isn't really a general term, they are more often referred to as 1440p, much like how 1920x1080 is referred to as 1080p.

Given your GPU I'd recommend going for a 1440p one (2560x1440) - A single GTX 970 will struggle to run 4k whereas it will drive 1440p fine.  This will still give you a better image than you'll find on a 1080p monitor and will give you a lot more space on the screen for work.  You also shouldn't need to do any sort of DPI scaling on a 1440p monitor which you would likely need to do on 4k to make the text a readable size.

If you are seeing the "Virtual 4k" on the Qnix monitor eBay listings, don't bother with it, it's a worthless gimmick that the sellers put in the eBay listing to make it seem like a special feature.  All it is referring to is forcing the monitor to work at a non-native resolution.  If anything the image quality will be worse than running at the native resolution yet it will stress your GPU out more!

Also, don't feel like you need to go for one of those cheap Korean ones nowadays, it USED to be the case that they were the only affordable option at 2560x1440 resolution however nowadays you can pick up a much better monitor such as the Dell U2515H for around the same price.Hey there,

I rarely post but I was in the same boat as you. I couldn't pick a monitor because there were a lot of specs I had to take into account, I found a really useful article however, maybe it will help you too. I ended up going for a 1440p monitor which I think will be OPTIMAL for your build as well.
Check it out if interested
http://thetechplanet.net/5-best-gaming-monitors/

Hope I was helpful

Hello I have an HP Touchscreen and I recently lent my computer to my friend. However, when he returned it i noticed little bubbles on the screen which weren't there before. The bubbles are not on the surface so i'm guessing they're beneath the screen. Any help is appreciated. I don't know if they are air bubbles or moisture bubbles but I know they aren't cracks in the screen. I also cannot lift up the screen so that the bubbles come out without breaking it. I have tried pressing on them with no success. Any help is appreciated and I have attached a picture of it below. I'm dearly sorry for the bad quality. 

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]I realize you can't see it because of how small they are but if you click on the picture I posted you will see them. Thank you for your time. Any ideas on what they could be or how I could get rid of them are gladly appreciated.Do you have a service plan on your phone to fix this? If you do, I'd use that to fix this.

Looks like it might have gotten cooked in the sun or SAT on and the digitizer got stressed.I must say it looks like water damage to me.We may eventually get the full story...I don't know what he did but its not coming out of my laptop. I don't want to be rude and ask him though. Any ideas on what caused this or how to fix this?    Risk being rude...and ask...it's your PC.He claims he just used it and says that he didn't see any bubbles. I don't think HES going to disclose anymore than that.  My guess is that you don't have a service plan on this to cover damages...

Looking back at the image, I now see 3 bubbles to the left, so I am switching to the fact that it looks like it got dunked or rained on etc. When looking at the picture initially I thought you had tiny bubbles that were making the wavy effect on the image. I am suppose to wear glasses and have been trying to avoid wearing them because I don't like wearing them. Sorry for missing those that are probably in plain view initially.The bubbles are right near the edge, which is what you expect with slight liquid INGRESS. Maybe there was some kind of water fight or a drink got knocked over. Many people are much less careful with other people's property than their own. Possibly you can speak to a relative of your friend such as a younger brother and bribe them with money or candy to tell you what happened? Anyhow you will now know it would be foolish to lend your friend anything else that you value.
Its my office computer and I lent it to him because all the plans and STATISTICS are saved onto my computer. I had no choice he is my boss as well. QUOTE from: ripa moramee on September 03, 2015, 02:15:40 PM

Its my office computer and I lent it to him because all the plans and statistics are saved onto my computer. I had no choice he is my boss as well.

Heya!

I am currently running Windows 10 with:
2x 4gb Ripjaws RAM DDR3 1600
1x CPU AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor
1x MB Asus M5A97 R2.0 ATX AM3+ Motherboard
1x GPU Sapphire HD 7950 Vapor-X 3 GB OC
1x PSU EVGA SuperNOVA 650W 80+ Gold 
1x SSD Samsung 840 EVO 120GB
1x HDD SEAGATE Barracuda 2TB 

Here are my reports from WhoCrashed:

On Wed 2.9.2015 г. 21:00:02 GMT your computer crashed
crash dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\090315-5625-01.dmp
This was probably caused by the following module: ntoskrnl.exe (nt+0x14E240)
Bugcheck code: 0x3B (0xC0000005, 0xFFFFF80096AD4F0F, 0xFFFFD0018B253C70, 0x0)
Error: SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION
file path: C:\Windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe
product: Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
company: Microsoft Corporation
description: NT Kernel & System
Bug check description: This indicates that an exception happened while executing a routine that transitions from non-privileged code to privileged code.
This appears to be a typical software driver bug and is not likely to be caused by a hardware problem.
The crash took place in the Windows kernel. Possibly this problem is caused by another driver that cannot be identified at this time.



On Wed 2.9.2015 г. 21:00:02 GMT your computer crashed
crash dump file: C:\Windows\memory.dmp
This was probably caused by the following module: ntkrnlmp.exe (nt!KeBugCheckEx+0x0)
Bugcheck code: 0x3B (0xC0000005, 0xFFFFF80096AD4F0F, 0xFFFFD0018B253C70, 0x0)
Error: SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION
Bug check description: This indicates that an exception happened while executing a routine that transitions from non-privileged code to privileged code.
This appears to be a typical software driver bug and is not likely to be caused by a hardware problem.
The crash took place in the Windows kernel. Possibly this problem is caused by another driver that cannot be identified at this time.



On Wed 2.9.2015 г. 20:52:21 GMT your computer crashed
crash dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\090215-5765-01.dmp
This was probably caused by the following module: ntoskrnl.exe (nt+0x14E240)
Bugcheck code: 0x1A (0x41792, 0xFFFFF6BFFC75A5F8, 0x80000000000, 0x0)
Error: MEMORY_MANAGEMENT
file path: C:\Windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe
product: Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
company: Microsoft Corporation
description: NT Kernel & System
Bug check description: This indicates that a severe memory management error occurred.
This might be a case of memory corruption. More often memory corruption happens because of software errors in buggy drivers, not because of faulty RAM modules.
The crash took place in the Windows kernel. Possibly this problem is caused by another driver that cannot be identified at this time.



On Wed 2.9.2015 г. 12:10:00 GMT your computer crashed
crash dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\090215-7328-01.dmp
This was probably caused by the following module: ntoskrnl.exe (nt+0x14E240)
Bugcheck code: 0x139 (0x2, 0xFFFFD00021083F30, 0xFFFFD00021083E88, 0x0)
Error: KERNEL_SECURITY_CHECK_FAILURE
file path: C:\Windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe
product: Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
company: Microsoft Corporation
description: NT Kernel & System
Bug check description: The kernel has detected the corruption of a critical data structure.
The crash took place in the Windows kernel. Possibly this problem is caused by another driver that cannot be identified at this time.

I did a reinstall just yesterday, because after so many BSOD's the OS went corrupt (I guess) and Windows 8.1 PRO would freeze on the 20th second (not matter if I've logged in or just turned on the computer without logging in). Now I am with Windows 10. 4 BSOD's happened in the last ~hour.

Info about the PC before the reinstall:
   I've tested the RAM with memtest. With both sticks in I got a single error for ~8 hours. Then I tested either of them alone on the mobo for 8 hours, they gave NO errors and they managed to make a lot more passes. Notice: One of the sticks displayed a wrong frequency, but BIOS recognizes it correctly so I think it's a memtest bug.
   This PC has been making these BSOD's since day one, but I couldn't be bothered since they were too rare, never had one while gaming no matter how intensive.
   I've been tracking all of my temps constantly and NOTHING overheats. Not even when using furmark or some cpu stress program. GPU wont go above 75, CPU wont go above 70.

Info about the PC after the freezing problem, before the reinstall:
   Since I thought it might be a PSU problem (650 maaaaybe is kinda low for my setup, but it's gold soo..) I disconnected the CD and reverted my GPU's overclock (it has a button to revert the overclock as it's factory overclocked). That gave no positive result.
   Reseating everything resulted in nothing, changing cables resulted in nothing.
   chkdsk C: /f /x /r gave no errors. I ran it from a CMD outside of the Windows environment (you can access the menu by holding shift + clicking restart)
   ! Booting from a LIVE CD of LINUX MINT 17.2 resulted in no BSOD and no Freezing, tho I didn't really test it for too long, amn't really familiar with Linux (don't judge me please)

Info about the PC after the reinstall:
   As I said, BSOD still happens but it gives me a few minutes/hours of time before it does that. Much more frequent before the freeze problem.

Overall info:
BSOD's happen mainly while browsing youtube (lol) and never when gaming for some reason. A day before the major freezing problem, they began happening right before the computer would shutdown.
I remember checking my GPU memory with some shady program that had 0 reliability since "it's impossible to test that" for some reason. It gave impossible amount of errors so I ignored it. That was a long time ago, if someone can give me a reliable program for that Id be greatful.

Important!:
I get random screen tearing. It's been happening ever since I built the computer (2-3 years ago). It's like a big line crossing once a day, hardly noticeable, but still - it's there.

Main suspect: GPU. It's second-hand, and the PC's been BSODing since day one. It's been in the PC since day one. Tho I can't put the blame on it since putting load on the PC doesn't increase the chance for BSOD nor the chance for a screen tear.
Second suspect: SSD.

I am out of ideas. Requesting assistance, PC gurus.

Updates info:
Everything is updated. Chipset, BIOS, Drivers, Windows. Luckily enough ASUS still support this mobo even for Win10 and had released drivers and a bios made for it.

Event Manager info:

Error Type #1: The Service Control Manager tried to take a corrective action (Restart the service) after the UNEXPECTED termination of the Windows
                       Management Instrumentation service, but this action failed with the following error:
                       An instance of the service is already running.
I got loads of those, all with a different description about services being terminated without expectation (tho they all happened at the same time so this might be during a freeze)
Error Type #2: The system firmware has changed the processor's memory type range registers (MTRRs) across a sleep state transition (S5). This can result in reduced resume performance.
Error Type #3: The application-specific permission settings do not grant Local Activation permission for the COM Server application with CLSID
{D63B10C5-BB46-4990-A94F-E40B9D520160}
 and APPID
{9CA88EE3-ACB7-47C8-AFC4-AB702511C276}
 to the user NT AUTHORITY\SYSTEM SID (S-1-5-18) from address LocalHost (Using LRPC) running in the application container Unavailable SID (Unavailable). This security permission can be modified using the Component Services administrative tool.

Warning Type #1: Task Scheduler service found a misconfiguration in the NT TASK\ASUS\ASUS Network iControl Help Execute definition. Additional Data: Error Value: C:\Program Files (x86)\ASUS\AI Suite II\Network iControl\NetSvcHelp\NetSvcHelpEntry.exe.
Warning Type #2: Task Scheduler service found a misconfiguration in the NT TASK\ASUS\ASUS AI Suite II Execute definition. Additional Data: Error Value: C:\Program Files (x86)\ASUS\AI Suite II\AsRoutineController.exe.

Info Type #1: The following boot-start or system-start driver(s) did not load:
dam

They continue on but they are kinda repeating now so I won't post all.

What I've done to Windows:
I've changed the OWNER of Program Files to my Username. I hate how Windows 8+ handles security, and I don't like it when I am denied simple actions. Sometimes it doesn't even give a warning and just blocks a given process.
These changes did not cause the BSOD's or FREEZES to happen, but I believe they might be the reason for some of the Event Viewer's Errors/Warnings.

Quote

I've tested the RAM with memtest. With both sticks in I got a single error for ~8 hours. Then I tested either of them alone on the mobo for 8 hours, they gave NO errors and they managed to make a lot more passes. Notice: One of the sticks displayed a wrong frequency, but BIOS recognizes it correctly so I think it's a memtest bug.

Does this mean you had 1 error with both sticks in it, but none with them installed individually?  I have had a pair of memory sticks before not get along together from same brand, and yet they passed when run individually. I ended up shipping the one stick back that I suspected was troubled which was reporting 333Mhz instead of 400Mhz when both sticks were DDR 400.

If you can test this system by running it on one ram stick, the one that plays well at 1600 and see if the problem goes away that's the direction I would take. However if your video card is stressed, it shares memory with system RAM and so it can give you a memory failure.

I had a SSD die on me and when it died it died. It was a quick death, so I have doubts that this is caused by your SSD with swap space issue.

Most of the time when memory is paired and one of the sticks is lagging in speed, the others will downclock to sync to the lower speed.

Also: Your first computer build amazes me. I have so many questions. Why IDE? Why the kickass CPU when the other components are no match for it? From where did you even find a SATA II SSD? I thought they are all SATA III.

Looks like I need to update my specs on that system. The first generation smaller SSD's were SATA II, some were better than others with error correction and wear balancing of cells, as well as different evolving technologies that affected the speed of the SSD's. I bought the 40GB SSD cheap for like $35 at newegg when SSD prices plunged, but the better ones were still in the $120+ range. The SATA II HDD that I had planned for this new build I found had some problems when looking at it with crystaldiskinfo. So instead of putting in a known troubled drive, I decided to grab a 120GB IDE that I had that was healthy and use that at the time. This allowed for me to make a system that booted fast off SSD, some games on SSD to boot fast, and long term data that doesn't need load time speed for say ms office type documents etc to remain on a safe drive with a script to at shutdown write a backup of my latest data to a 16GB USB stick.

I haven't updated my specs yet, but will soon. Its currently the same system, but
C: = 240GB SATA III SSD
D: = 40GB SATA II SSD

I placed world of warcraft onto 31GB of the 40GB SSD, the OS and all other games are on the 240GB SATA III SSD.
No longer using a IDE HDD on that system...     I picked up the 240G SSD for $109

Still using the shutdown script that writes important data to 16GB USB flash as a backup before final shutdown.

Also video card on order to upgrade to Geforce GTX 750, and pass this older video card in this system to my other older system.

When typing on key board and when using MOUSE, there is often a delay (sometime several seconds) before the SCREEN RESPONDS. (HP laptop, Windows 7). No liquids have been spilled on keyboard or other damage.Have you run an antivirus on this system to know if its clean and not infected? Has this system been infected and this started after that? Any other INFORMATION on when this started, when last time it was HEALTHY etc?

Help!!! My hdd is giving PROBLEM to start pc. When i wants to start my pc ; monitors display show the massage " drive read errior   press alt+ctrl+del." Or the boot manager is missing. But when i remove hdd and press normally on its motor & connect; it starts. Please help me. Press normally on its motor? What does this mean?
Hi

It is possible there is a bad connection between the circuit board and the drive motor / head assembly connector. Normally this is 2 connectors. As you have the drive out can you supply the make and model so that I can check how those connections are made.
Sometimes removing the board and cleaning the solder pads with an eraser is all that's required to get the drive working again."disk read error" means bad sector. since system fails to boot, the bad sector(s) is on vital location that contain important data for system booting.
you can enter safe/recovery mode to repair the error or use  bootable CD  and perform chkdsk which can check bad sectors.
besides, there are third-party tool on the Internet that can check and repair tools too.
it happens that some bad sectors can't be repaired. in that case, you'll have to change a new disk.
if your computer or hard drive doesn't RUN out of warranty, you can contact tech support team for help.
You can safely ignore the above POST.

Hi,

I have a Vision laptop running Windows 7 that was recently formatted. Since then, I have been unable to play sound from all of its internal speakers at once. Also, when I connect to a bluetooth device (in this case, a Bose Soundlink Mini, which has been tested on other machines) the AUDIO quality is very poor and crackly.

When I go to the control panel to set the playback device it presents me with three different, completely identical speakers to choose from. Depending on which one I choose, I get sound from either the bottom (sub-wooferish), the top (treble-heavy), or the middle (mid-range) of the laptop. They are all just called "Enheden High Definiftion Audio" ("High Definition Audio Device"). In the device manager, there are two identical entries both called "High Definition Audio Device" (see attached screenshots). If I try to remove theese, Windows calls for a reboot and then immediately reinstalls them when it boots up. I don't know which sound card I have and the dxdiag only list the three "Enheden High Definiftion Audio" devices (see below or attached txt-file).

I've searched far and wide, but I've been unable to find neither answers nor people with similar problems. I think this is a driver issue since it appeared after a format, but I'm not completely sure.

Hope you guys can help!

Best,

Bertel

DxDiag:

------------------
System Information
------------------
Time of this report: 9/13/2015, 14:11:47
       Machine name: EJER-PC
   Operating System: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit (6.1, Build 7601) Service Pack 1 (7601.win7sp1_gdr.150722-0600)
           Language: Danish (Regional Setting: Danish)
System Manufacturer: CLEVO                           
       System Model: P170HMx
               BIOS: BIOS Date: 08/09/11 14:44:22 Ver: 04.06.04
          Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-2670QM CPU 2.20GHz (8 CPUs), ~2.2GHz
             Memory: 16384MB RAM
Available OS Memory: 16362MB RAM
          Page File: 3738MB used, 28982MB available
        Windows Dir: C:\Windows
    DirectX Version: DirectX 11
DX Setup Parameters: Not found
   User DPI Setting: Using System DPI
 System DPI Setting: 96 DPI (100 percent)
    DWM DPI Scaling: Disabled
     DxDiag Version: 6.01.7601.17514 32bit Unicode

------------
DxDiag Notes
------------
      Display Tab 1: No problems found.
        Sound Tab 1: No problems found.
        Sound Tab 2: No problems found.
        Sound Tab 3: No problems found.
        Sound Tab 4: No problems found.
          Input Tab: No problems found.

--------------------
DirectX Debug Levels
--------------------
Direct3D:    0/4 (retail)
DirectDraw:  0/4 (retail)
DirectInput: 0/5 (retail)
DirectMusic: 0/5 (retail)
DirectPlay:  0/9 (retail)
DirectSound: 0/5 (retail)
DirectShow:  0/6 (retail)

---------------
Display Devices
---------------
          Card name: AMD Radeon HD 6990M
       Manufacturer: ATI Technologies Inc.
          Chip type: ATI display adapter (0x6720)
           DAC type: Internal DAC(400MHz)
         Device Key: Enum\PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_6720&SUBSYS_51041558&REV_00
     Display Memory: 4095 MB
   Dedicated Memory: 2022 MB
      Shared Memory: 2073 MB
       Current Mode: 1920 x 1080 (32 bit) (60Hz)
       Monitor Name: Standard PnP-skærm
      Monitor Model: HSD173PUW1
         Monitor Id: HSD06A5
        Native Mode: 1920 x 1080(p) (60.007Hz)
        Output Type: Internal
        Driver Name: aticfx64.dll,aticfx64.dll,aticfx64.dll,aticfx32,aticfx32,aticfx32,atiumd64.dll,atidxx64.dll,atidxx64.dll,atiumdag,atidxx32,atidxx32,atiumdva,atiumd6a.cap,atitmm64.dll
Driver File Version: 8.17.0010.1077 (English)
     Driver Version: 8.850.0.0
        DDI Version: 11
       Driver Model: WDDM 1.1
  Driver Attributes: Final Retail
   Driver Date/Size: 4/24/2015 07:41:31, 795648 bytes
        WHQL Logo'd: Yes
    WHQL Date Stamp:
  Device Identifier: {D7B71EE2-2460-11CF-DD72-0E71BEC2C535}
          Vendor ID: 0x1002
          Device ID: 0x6720
          SubSys ID: 0x51041558
        Revision ID: 0x0000
 Driver Strong Name: oem19.inf:ATI.Mfg.NTamd64.6.1:ati2mtag_Vancouver:8.850.0.0:pci\ven_1002&dev_6720&subsys_51041558
     Rank Of Driver: 00E60001
        VIDEO Accel: ModeMPEG2_A ModeMPEG2_C
   Deinterlace Caps: {6E8329FF-B642-418B-BCF0-BCB6591E255F}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive
                     {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
                     {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY
                     {6E8329FF-B642-418B-BCF0-BCB6591E255F}: Format(In/Out)=(UYVY,UYVY) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive
                     {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(UYVY,UYVY) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
                     {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(UYVY,UYVY) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY
                     {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(YV12,0x32315659) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {3C5323C1-6FB7-44F5-9081-056BF2EE449D}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,2) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive
                     {552C0DAD-CCBC-420B-83C8-74943CF9F1A6}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,2) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive
                     {6E8329FF-B642-418B-BCF0-BCB6591E255F}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive
                     {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
                     {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY
                     {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC1,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC2,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC3,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC4,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(S340,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
                     {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(S342,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
       D3D9 Overlay: Not Supported
            DXVA-HD: Not Supported
       DDraw Status: Enabled
         D3D Status: Enabled
         AGP Status: Enabled

-------------
Sound Devices
-------------
            Description: Højttalere (2- Enheden High Definition Audio)
 Default Sound Playback: Yes
 Default Voice Playback: Yes
            Hardware ID: HDAUDIO\FUNC_01&VEN_10EC&DEV_0892&SUBSYS_15587100&REV_1003
        Manufacturer ID: 1
             Product ID: 65535
                   Type: WDM
            Driver Name: HdAudio.sys
         Driver Version: 6.01.7601.17514 (English)
      Driver Attributes: Final Retail
            WHQL Logo'd: Yes
          Date and Size: 11/20/2010 20:23:47, 350208 bytes
            Other Files:
        Driver Provider: Microsoft
         HW Accel Level: Basic
              Cap Flags: 0xF1F
    Min/Max Sample Rate: 100, 200000
Static/Strm HW Mix Bufs: 1, 0
 Static/Strm HW 3D Bufs: 0, 0
              HW Memory: 0
       Voice Management: No
 EAX(tm) 2.0 Listen/Src: No, No
   I3DL2(tm) Listen/Src: No, No
Sensaura(tm) ZoomFX(tm): No

            Description: Højttalere (2- Enheden High Definition Audio)
 Default Sound Playback: No
 Default Voice Playback: No
            Hardware ID: HDAUDIO\FUNC_01&VEN_10EC&DEV_0892&SUBSYS_15587100&REV_1003
        Manufacturer ID: 1
             Product ID: 65535
                   Type: WDM
            Driver Name: HdAudio.sys
         Driver Version: 6.01.7601.17514 (English)
      Driver Attributes: Final Retail
            WHQL Logo'd: Yes
          Date and Size: 11/20/2010 20:23:47, 350208 bytes
            Other Files:
        Driver Provider: Microsoft
         HW Accel Level: Basic
              Cap Flags: 0xF1F
    Min/Max Sample Rate: 100, 200000
Static/Strm HW Mix Bufs: 1, 0
 Static/Strm HW 3D Bufs: 0, 0
              HW Memory: 0
       Voice Management: No
 EAX(tm) 2.0 Listen/Src: No, No
   I3DL2(tm) Listen/Src: No, No
Sensaura(tm) ZoomFX(tm): No

            Description: Digital lyd (S/PDIF) (2- Enheden High Definition Audio)
 Default Sound Playback: No
 Default Voice Playback: No
            Hardware ID: HDAUDIO\FUNC_01&VEN_10EC&DEV_0892&SUBSYS_15587100&REV_1003
        Manufacturer ID: 1
             Product ID: 65535
                   Type: WDM
            Driver Name: HdAudio.sys
         Driver Version: 6.01.7601.17514 (English)
      Driver Attributes: Final Retail
            WHQL Logo'd: Yes
          Date and Size: 11/20/2010 20:23:47, 350208 bytes
            Other Files:
        Driver Provider: Microsoft
         HW Accel Level: Basic
              Cap Flags: 0xF1F
    Min/Max Sample Rate: 100, 200000
Static/Strm HW Mix Bufs: 1, 0
 Static/Strm HW 3D Bufs: 0, 0
              HW Memory: 0
       Voice Management: No
 EAX(tm) 2.0 Listen/Src: No, No
   I3DL2(tm) Listen/Src: No, No
Sensaura(tm) ZoomFX(tm): No

            Description: Højttalere (2- Enheden High Definition Audio)
 Default Sound Playback: No
 Default Voice Playback: No
            Hardware ID: HDAUDIO\FUNC_01&VEN_10EC&DEV_0892&SUBSYS_15587100&REV_1003
        Manufacturer ID: 1
             Product ID: 65535
                   Type: WDM
            Driver Name: HdAudio.sys
         Driver Version: 6.01.7601.17514 (English)
      Driver Attributes: Final Retail
            WHQL Logo'd: Yes
          Date and Size: 11/20/2010 20:23:47, 350208 bytes
            Other Files:
        Driver Provider: Microsoft
         HW Accel Level: Basic
              Cap Flags: 0xF1F
    Min/Max Sample Rate: 100, 200000
Static/Strm HW Mix Bufs: 1, 0
 Static/Strm HW 3D Bufs: 0, 0
              HW Memory: 0
       Voice Management: No
 EAX(tm) 2.0 Listen/Src: No, No
   I3DL2(tm) Listen/Src: No, No
Sensaura(tm) ZoomFX(tm): No

---------------------
Sound Capture Devices
---------------------
            Description: Mikrofon (2- Enheden High Definition Audio)
  Default Sound Capture: Yes
  Default Voice Capture: Yes
            Driver Name: HdAudio.sys
         Driver Version: 6.01.7601.17514 (English)
      Driver Attributes: Final Retail
          Date and Size: 11/20/2010 20:23:47, 350208 bytes
              Cap Flags: 0x1
           Format Flags: 0xFFFFF

            Description: Mikrofon (2- Enheden High Definition Audio)
  Default Sound Capture: No
  Default Voice Capture: No
            Driver Name: HdAudio.sys
         Driver Version: 6.01.7601.17514 (English)
      Driver Attributes: Final Retail
          Date and Size: 11/20/2010 20:23:47, 350208 bytes
              Cap Flags: 0x1
           Format Flags: 0xFFFFF

            Description: Indgående linje (2- Enheden High Definition Audio)
  Default Sound Capture: No
  Default Voice Capture: No
            Driver Name: HdAudio.sys
         Driver Version: 6.01.7601.17514 (English)
      Driver Attributes: Final Retail
          Date and Size: 11/20/2010 20:23:47, 350208 bytes
              Cap Flags: 0x1
           Format Flags: 0xFFFFF

-------------------
DirectInput Devices
-------------------
      Device Name: Mouse
         Attached: 1
    Controller ID: n/a
Vendor/Product ID: n/a
        FF Driver: n/a

      Device Name: Keyboard
         Attached: 1
    Controller ID: n/a
Vendor/Product ID: n/a
        FF Driver: n/a

      Device Name: Bluetooth Remote Control Device
         Attached: 1
    Controller ID: 0x0
Vendor/Product ID: 0x4156, 0x5243
        FF Driver: n/a

      Device Name: Bluetooth Remote Control Device
         Attached: 1
    Controller ID: 0x0
Vendor/Product ID: 0x4156, 0x5243
        FF Driver: n/a

      Device Name: Bluetooth Remote Control Device
         Attached: 1
    Controller ID: 0x0
Vendor/Product ID: 0x4156, 0x5243
        FF Driver: n/a

      Device Name: Microsoft eHome Infrared Transceiver
         Attached: 1
    Controller ID: 0x0
Vendor/Product ID: 0x045E, 0x006D
        FF Driver: n/a

      Device Name: Microsoft eHome Infrared Transceiver
         Attached: 1
    Controller ID: 0x0
Vendor/Product ID: 0x045E, 0x006D
        FF Driver: n/a

      Device Name: Microsoft eHome Infrared Transceiver
         Attached: 1
    Controller ID: 0x0
Vendor/Product ID: 0x045E, 0x006D
        FF Driver: n/a

      Device Name: Microsoft eHome Infrared Transceiver
         Attached: 1
    Controller ID: 0x0
Vendor/Product ID: 0x045E, 0x006D
        FF Driver: n/a

Poll w/ Interrupt: No

-----------
USB Devices
-----------
+ USB Root Hub
| Vendor/Product ID: 0x8086, 0x1C26
| Matching Device ID: usb\root_hub20
| Service: usbhub
|
+-+ Generic USB Hub
| | Vendor/Product ID: 0x8087, 0x0024
| | Location: Port_#0001.Hub_#0002
| | Matching Device ID: usb\class_09
| | Service: usbhub

----------------
Gameport Devices
----------------

------------
PS/2 Devices
------------
+ Standard PS/2 Keyboard
| Matching Device ID: *pnp0303
| Service: i8042prt
|
+ Microsoft eHome Remote Control Keyboard keys
| Matching Device ID: hid\irdevicev2&col05
| Service: kbdhid
|
+ Microsoft eHome MCIR Keyboard
| Matching Device ID: hid\irdevicev2&col06
| Service: kbdhid
|
+ Microsoft eHome MCIR 109 Keyboard
| Matching Device ID: hid\irdevicev2&col07
| Service: kbdhid
|
+ Terminal Server Keyboard Driver
| Matching Device ID: root\rdp_kbd
| Upper Filters: kbdclass
| Service: TermDD
|
+ Synaptics PS/2 Port Pointing Device
| Matching Device ID: *pnp0f13
| Upper Filters: SynTP
| Service: i8042prt
|
+ HID-compliant mouse
| Matching Device ID: hid_device_system_mouse
| Service: mouhid
|
+ Terminal Server Mouse Driver
| Matching Device ID: root\rdp_mou
| Upper Filters: mouclass
| Service: TermDD

------------------------
Disk & DVD/CD-ROM Drives
------------------------
      Drive: C:
 Free Space: 7.2 GB
Total Space: 122.0 GB
File System: NTFS
      Model: KINGSTON SV100S2128G ATA Device

      Drive: D:
 Free Space: 391.0 GB
Total Space: 476.9 GB
File System: NTFS
      Model: ST9500420AS ATA Device

      Drive: E:
      Model: TSSTcorp CDDVDW TS-L633F ATA Device
     Driver: c:\windows\system32\drivers\cdrom.sys, 6.01.7601.17514 (Danish), , 0 bytes

--------------
System Devices
--------------
     Name: Intel(R) HM67 Express Chipset Family LPC Interface Controller - 1C4B
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_1C4B&SUBSYS_71001558&REV_05\3&11583659&0&F8
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Intel(R) 6 Series/C200 Series Chipset Family PCI Express Root Port 2 - 1C12
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_1C12&SUBSYS_71001558&REV_B5\3&11583659&0&E1
   Driver: n/a

     Name: 1394 OHCI Compliant Host Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_197B&DEV_2380&SUBSYS_71001558&REV_30\4&27AD833F&0&00E3
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Intel(R) Management Engine Interface
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_1C3A&SUBSYS_71001558&REV_04\3&11583659&0&B0
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Intel(R) 6 Series/C200 Series Chipset Family PCI Express Root Port 1 - 1C10
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_1C10&SUBSYS_71001558&REV_B5\3&11583659&0&E0
   Driver: n/a

     Name: JMicron PCI Express Gigabit Ethernet Adapter
Device ID: PCI\VEN_197B&DEV_0250&SUBSYS_71001558&REV_05\4&331C0788&0&00E1
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Intel(R) 6 Series/C200 Series Chipset Family USB Enhanced Host Controller - 1C2D
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_1C2D&SUBSYS_71001558&REV_05\3&11583659&0&D0
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Intel(R) 6 Series/C200 Series Chipset Family 6 Port SATA AHCI Controller - 1C03
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_1C03&SUBSYS_71001558&REV_05\3&11583659&0&FA
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Realtek RTL8188CE Wireless LAN 802.11n COMBO PCI-E NIC
Device ID: PCI\VEN_10EC&DEV_8176&SUBSYS_919610EC&REV_01\4&181622DF&0&00E2
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Intel(R) 6 Series/C200 Series Chipset Family USB Enhanced Host Controller - 1C26
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_1C26&SUBSYS_71001558&REV_05\3&11583659&0&E8
   Driver: n/a

     Name: 2nd generation Intel(R) Core(TM) processor family DRAM Controller - 0104
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_0104&SUBSYS_71001558&REV_09\3&11583659&0&00
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Renesas Electronics USB 3.0 Host Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1033&DEV_0194&SUBSYS_71001558&REV_04\4&7189DE1&0&00E0
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Intel(R) 6 Series/C200 Series Chipset Family SMBus Controller - 1C22
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_1C22&SUBSYS_71001558&REV_05\3&11583659&0&FB
   Driver: n/a

     Name: 2nd generation Intel(R) Core(TM) processor family PCI Express Controller - 0101
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_0101&SUBSYS_71001558&REV_09\3&11583659&0&08
   Driver: n/a

     Name: High Definition Audio Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_AA88&SUBSYS_AA881558&REV_00\4&38EC51A5&0&0108
   Driver: n/a

     Name: High Definition Audio Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_1C20&SUBSYS_71001558&REV_05\3&11583659&0&D8
   Driver: n/a

     Name: JMicron PCIe MS Host Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_197B&DEV_2393&SUBSYS_71001558&REV_90\4&331C0788&0&03E1
   Driver: n/a

     Name: AMD Radeon HD 6990M
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_6720&SUBSYS_51041558&REV_00\4&38EC51A5&0&0008
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Intel(R) 6 Series/C200 Series Chipset Family PCI Express Root Port 4 - 1C16
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_1C16&SUBSYS_71001558&REV_B5\3&11583659&0&E3
   Driver: n/a

     Name: JMicron PCIe SD/MMC Host Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_197B&DEV_2392&SUBSYS_71001558&REV_90\4&331C0788&0&01E1
   Driver: n/a

     Name: Intel(R) 6 Series/C200 Series Chipset Family PCI Express Root Port 3 - 1C14
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_1C14&SUBSYS_71001558&REV_B5\3&11583659&0&E2
   Driver: n/a

     Name: JMicron PCIe SD Host Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_197B&DEV_2391&SUBSYS_71001558&REV_90\4&331C0788&0&02E1
   Driver: n/a

------------------
DirectShow Filters
------------------

DirectShow Filters:
WMAudio Decoder DMO,0x00800800,1,1,WMADMOD.DLL,6.01.7601.17514
WMAPro over S/PDIF DMO,0x00600800,1,1,WMADMOD.DLL,6.01.7601.17514
WMSpeech Decoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,WMSPDMOD.DLL,6.01.7601.17514
MP3 Decoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,mp3dmod.dll,6.01.7600.16385
Mpeg4s Decoder DMO,0x00800001,1,1,mp4sdecd.dll,6.01.7600.16385
WMV Screen decoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,wmvsdecd.dll,6.01.7601.17514
WMVideo Decoder DMO,0x00800001,1,1,wmvdecod.dll,6.01.7601.18221
Mpeg43 Decoder DMO,0x00800001,1,1,mp43decd.dll,6.01.7600.16385
Mpeg4 Decoder DMO,0x00800001,1,1,mpg4decd.dll,6.01.7600.16385
DV Muxer,0x00400000,0,0,qdv.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Color Space Converter,0x00400001,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
WM ASF Reader,0x00400000,0,0,qasf.dll,12.00.7601.17514
Screen Capture filter,0x00200000,0,1,wmpsrcwp.dll,12.00.7601.17514
AVI Splitter,0x00600000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
VGA 16 Color Ditherer,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
SBE2MediaTypeProfile,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
Microsoft DTV-DVD Video Decoder,0x005fffff,2,4,msmpeg2vdec.dll,12.00.9200.17037
AC3 Parser Filter,0x00600000,1,1,mpg2splt.ax,6.06.7601.17528
StreamBufferSink,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
MJPEG Decompressor,0x00600000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
MPEG-I Stream Splitter,0x00600000,1,2,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
SAMI (CC) Parser,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
VBI Codec,0x00600000,1,4,VBICodec.ax,6.06.7601.17514
MPEG-2 Splitter,0x005fffff,1,0,mpg2splt.ax,6.06.7601.17528
Closed Captions Analysis Filter,0x00200000,2,5,cca.dll,6.06.7601.17514
SBE2FileScan,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
Microsoft MPEG-2 Video Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,msmpeg2enc.dll,6.01.7601.17514
Internal Script Command Renderer,0x00800001,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
MPEG Audio Decoder,0x03680001,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
DV Splitter,0x00600000,1,2,qdv.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Video Mixing Renderer 9,0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
Microsoft MPEG-2 Encoder,0x00200000,2,1,msmpeg2enc.dll,6.01.7601.17514
ACM Wrapper,0x00600000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
Video Renderer,0x00800001,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
MPEG-2 Video Stream Analyzer,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
Line 21 Decoder,0x00600000,1,1,qdvd.dll,6.06.7601.18741
Video Port Manager,0x00600000,2,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
Video Renderer,0x00400000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
VPS Decoder,0x00200000,0,0,WSTPager.ax,6.06.7601.17514
WM ASF Writer,0x00400000,0,0,qasf.dll,12.00.7601.17514
VBI Surface Allocator,0x00600000,1,1,vbisurf.ax,6.01.7601.17514
File writer,0x00200000,1,0,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
iTV Data Sink,0x00600000,1,0,itvdata.dll,6.06.7601.17514
iTV Data Capture filter,0x00600000,1,1,itvdata.dll,6.06.7601.17514
DVD Navigator,0x00200000,0,3,qdvd.dll,6.06.7601.18741
Overlay Mixer2,0x00200000,1,1,qdvd.dll,6.06.7601.18741
AVI Draw,0x00600064,9,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
RDP DShow Redirection Filter,0xffffffff,1,0,DShowRdpFilter.dll,
Microsoft MPEG-2 Audio Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,msmpeg2enc.dll,6.01.7601.17514
WST Pager,0x00200000,1,1,WSTPager.ax,6.06.7601.17514
MPEG-2 Demultiplexer,0x00600000,1,1,mpg2splt.ax,6.06.7601.17528
DV Video Decoder,0x00800000,1,1,qdv.dll,6.06.7601.17514
SampleGrabber,0x00200000,1,1,qedit.dll,6.06.7601.18501
Null Renderer,0x00200000,1,0,qedit.dll,6.06.7601.18501
MPEG-2 Sections and Tables,0x005fffff,1,0,Mpeg2Data.ax,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft AC3 Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,msac3enc.dll,6.01.7601.17514
StreamBufferSource,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
Smart Tee,0x00200000,1,2,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Overlay Mixer,0x00200000,0,0,qdvd.dll,6.06.7601.18741
AVI Decompressor,0x00600000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
AVI/WAV File Source,0x00400000,0,2,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
Wave Parser,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
MIDI Parser,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
Multi-file Parser,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
File stream renderer,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
Microsoft DTV-DVD Audio Decoder,0x005fffff,1,1,msmpeg2adec.dll,6.01.7140.0000
StreamBufferSink2,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
AVI Mux,0x00200000,1,0,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Line 21 Decoder 2,0x00600002,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
File Source (Async.),0x00400000,0,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
File Source (URL),0x00400000,0,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
Infinite Pin Tee Filter,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Enhanced Video Renderer,0x00200000,1,0,evr.dll,6.01.7601.18741
BDA MPEG2 Transport Information Filter,0x00200000,2,0,psisrndr.ax,6.06.7601.17669
MPEG Video Decoder,0x40000001,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741

WDM Streaming Tee/Splitter Devices:
Tee/Sink-to-Sink-konverteringsprogram,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514

Video Compressors:
WMVideo8 Encoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,wmvxencd.dll,6.01.7600.16385
WMVideo9 Encoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,wmvencod.dll,6.01.7600.16385
MSScreen 9 encoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,wmvsencd.dll,6.01.7600.16385
DV Video Encoder,0x00200000,0,0,qdv.dll,6.06.7601.17514
MJPEG Compressor,0x00200000,0,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
Cinepak Codec EFTER Radius,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Intel IYUV codec,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Intel IYUV codec,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft RLE,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft Video 1,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514

Audio Compressors:
WM Speech Encoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,WMSPDMOE.DLL,6.01.7600.16385
WMAudio Encoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,WMADMOE.DLL,6.01.7600.16385
IMA ADPCM,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
PCM,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
Microsoft ADPCM,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
GSM 6.10,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
CCITT A-Law,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
CCITT u-Law,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
MPEG Layer-3,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741

Audio Capture Sources:
Mikrofon (2- Enheden High Defin,0x00200000,0,0,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Indgående linje (2- Enheden Hig,0x00200000,0,0,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514

PBDA CP Filters:
PBDA DTFilter,0x00600000,1,1,CPFilters.dll,6.06.7601.17528
PBDA ETFilter,0x00200000,0,0,CPFilters.dll,6.06.7601.17528
PBDA PTFilter,0x00200000,0,0,CPFilters.dll,6.06.7601.17528

Midi Renderers:
Default MidiOut Device,0x00800000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
Microsoft GS Wavetable Synth,0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741

WDM Streaming Capture Devices:
HD Audio - blandet overførsel,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514

WDM Streaming Rendering Devices:
Bluetooth-stereolyd,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514
SPIDF-udgang til HD Audio,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514
HD Audio-højttaler 2,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514
HD Audio-højttaler 3,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514
HD Audio-højttaler,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514

BDA Network Providers:
Microsoft ATSC Network Provider,0x00200000,0,1,MSDvbNP.ax,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft DVBC Network Provider,0x00200000,0,1,MSDvbNP.ax,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft DVBS Network Provider,0x00200000,0,1,MSDvbNP.ax,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft DVBT Network Provider,0x00200000,0,1,MSDvbNP.ax,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft Network Provider,0x00200000,0,1,MSNP.ax,6.06.7601.17514

Multi-Instance Capable VBI Codecs:
VBI Codec,0x00600000,1,4,VBICodec.ax,6.06.7601.17514

BDA Transport Information Renderers:
BDA MPEG2 Transport Information Filter,0x00600000,2,0,psisrndr.ax,6.06.7601.17669
MPEG-2 Sections and Tables,0x00600000,1,0,Mpeg2Data.ax,6.06.7601.17514

BDA CP/CA Filters:
Decrypt/Tag,0x00600000,1,1,EncDec.dll,6.06.7601.17708
Encrypt/Tag,0x00200000,0,0,EncDec.dll,6.06.7601.17708
PTFilter,0x00200000,0,0,EncDec.dll,6.06.7601.17708
XDS Codec,0x00200000,0,0,EncDec.dll,6.06.7601.17708

WDM Streaming Communication Transforms:
Tee/Sink-to-Sink-konverteringsprogram,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514

Audio Renderers:
Højttalere (2- Enheden High Def,0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
Default DirectSound Device,0x00800000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
Default WaveOut Device,0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
Digital lyd (S/PDIF) (2- Enhede,0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
DirectSound: Digital lyd (S/PDIF) (2- Enheden High Definition Audio),0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741
DirectSound: Højttalere (2- Enheden High Definition Audio),0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.18741

---------------
EVR Power Information
---------------
Current Setting: {5C67A112-A4C9-483F-B4A7-1D473BECAFDC} (Quality)
  Quality Flags: 2576
    Enabled:
    Force throttling
    ALLOW half deinterlace
    Allow scaling
    Decode Power Usage: 100
  Balanced Flags: 1424
    Enabled:
    Force throttling
    Allow batching
    Force half deinterlace
    Force scaling
    Decode Power Usage: 50
  PowerFlags: 1424
    Enabled:
    Force throttling
    Allow batching
    Force half deinterlace
    Force scaling
    Decode Power Usage: 0






[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]

I have a HP F440, prior I had no problems till today.  I can not fully PRINT anything now for some REASON and will only do MAYBE half a page print.  I tried too reinstall the PRINTER and turn it off and then on againHow long have you had the printer?
Do you GET error messages?
Can you do a simple print rest?
Here is a general method of finding print problems.
What Do I Do When My Printer Isn't Printing?
Does that help? 

NOTE: The link above is a support group. You do not have to use their service, just come back here for more help.I am not sure, why but, I tried too print here this morning and had no problems.

My PC running XP will boot and I can the keyboard will work in BIOS, but when it  loads neither  keyboard or mouse will work, What is wrong?  1) What is new or different since the last time everything worked PROPERLY (IE, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?

2) Do the kb & mouse work in safe mode?It was given to me used and I am not sure it did every work right. I have not tried safe mode. Thanks.Try PLUGGING them in in an USB 2.0 slot if they are in a USB 3.0 atm. He never stated they were USB 3...therefore that's irrelevant...

It's likely the XP drivers are not properly installed...Yes it is usb 2.0. I have not been well so I have not bothered with it today.Do you have any PS/2 keyboard or mouse to test if it works when you plug it in?Please RESPOND to my question about whether or not they work in safe mode (saying you haven't tried safe mode is not an acceptable answer)The keyboard is ps/2 and the mouse is usb 2.0. I have not worked on it for a few days. I will try it again today. Thank you.Don't expect BIOS to use  the mouse.
With Windows XP, sometimes it can not find the keyboard or mouse. The fix is to shut down, wait, then power on again.
For examples, Google:
Keyboard does not work during Windows XP
Best answer is:
Troubleshoot wired keyboards

I have had this happen a number of times.  I don't worry about it! 

Hello everyone, my TOUCH pad for my laptop has stopped working since i did a computer repair that was built in the laptop and i have no idea how to get the touchpad up and working again. I've TRIED re-installing the driver but don't know if it was a up to dated one, and when I install the driver and restart my computer it gives me a message that says *if you installed another PS/2 Pointing Device Driver Please uninstall the Synaptics driver, You then need to reinstall you pointing device driver for your external device again*

If anyone knows a solution to this i would be grateful ;-;. Also I am using a  Dell Inspiron N4110Sorry for double posting but just wanted to add one thing, I recently found a thread from a different source and someone was having the exact same problem as me and said the touchpad was PLUGGED into the wrong place on the MOBO (MotherBoard) at least i hope THATS what MOBO stands for. If possible how do i access the mother board?I highly doubt thats the issue in your case...re-install the Synaptics Mouse/touchpad drivers from the laptop manuf. site and re-boot... Quote from: patio on September 08, 2015, 02:38:33 PM

I highly doubt thats the issue in your case...re-install the Synaptics Mouse/touchpad drivers from the laptop manuf. site and re-boot...

Hello Guys, I have been searching for a man that is good in making a Pc and making them at the price I want them I want them to run fast and that make me enjoy gaming I dont want pc which run so high games like bf4 and mw I want it to run tera and black gold online and blade and SOUL simple games like that the budget is 800 dollars Max is 1000 dollars thanks if you can help me build a strong and nice pc and please if you know difference between and and Intel then you can add it. Wow...PRODRUGS... sounds like a spammerWhat happened with the last PC we HELPED you with here where you were extremely vague and seemingly ignored most of the advice given?

How about you come up with something and we will advise on it?No, the first pc was the one who is scamming i checked the price in other website if you buy parts alone and you build your own pc you get it more cheep for like 650 or 500 dirhams but when i go check for parts of the same pc i dont get all the parts i want and i traveled 6 months after you gave me the advice thats why i didn't buy the pc, and my friend bought the pc that you helped me on but he didnt go for intel he went for AMD thats why i want intel i5 but cheap and can run most of the games and the website is here for the parts http://gear-up.me sorry guys but i realize that the pc price must be less than 2500 or more by little like 2800 dirahms. i might also go with that first pc that u TOLD me about but idk because the scam i dont feel it's worth it 650 more is like so much alot i can but 1 more GRAPHIC card or 16 gb ram instead of them taking for free , and guys last words tell me if i go for it http://computerpad.ae/product/budget-level-gaming-pc-1/ or no its not worth it.tell me yes or no im going to buy it , and i might change the i3 to i5 for 500 dirham more.Finest punctuation i've seen this year...Lol English is my 2nd language

Hi, im looking to buy a new CPU and for my PC suitable for the higher end of GAMING and live streaming and the one i had in mind was the (http://www.amazon.co.uk/AMD-FD8370FRHKBOX-FX-8370-125W-CPU/dp/B00MUTWELC) this one to be exact, however this ISNT compatible with my current motherboard which is an MSI A55M-P33 so im going to NEED a new one, however im not sure which one to GET to meet the specs of my PC. The board i found on your website was this one (http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/components/motherboards/amdsocketam3plus/760gchipset/ga-78lmt-usb3.html) now what i need to know is:

A) Will this board be ok for the CPU i have said i was intending to get.
B) I currently have DDR3 RAM cards, will they be ok with it?
C) i have a GeForce GT 740 graphics card, will that be ok as i think it requires a minimum PSU of 400w?
D) Will it fit into my PC if its a straight swap for my old board?
E) Will this motherboard plus the CPU i said be a real UPGRADE from my current rig.

if you could get back to me with the answers then ill be really grateful, as ive had no luck from other companies that ive asked for advice from.

Thanks

Will Mason.

need suggestions on how to speed up my Toughbook CF-C2

it has a HDD which will need to be replaced with an SSD but other then that it has a first generation i5 with 4 GB of ram and Windows 8.1 Pro and runs slower then frozen honey

anybody know what else to do to speed it up? I was also going to max it out with 6 GB of ram as well but don't know if that would do any good for just basic INTERNET and YouTube plus some emailsThat machine certainly shouldn't be slow, I'd put my money on it being the HDD so swap that out for an SSD first, then see what it's like. 

Upgrading the RAM will only make a big difference if you are using more than it has at the moment which I doubt you are based on your usage.  Try the SSD and see what difference it makes.

From what I can see the CF-C2 has a 4th generation Haswell chip, I can't find any reference to them ever having a first gen, therefore it certainly shouldn't be slow.I do have a 120 gb ssd.... Any good way to TRANSFER or clone windows to the new drive?. Quote from: camerongray on September 10, 2015, 03:44:59 AM

That machine certainly shouldn't be slow, I'd put my money on it being the HDD so swap that out for an SSD first, then see what it's like. 

Upgrading the RAM will only make a big difference if you are using more than it has at the moment which I doubt you are based on your usage.  Try the SSD and see what difference it makes.

From what I can see the CF-C2 has a 4th generation Haswell chip, I can't find any reference to them ever having a first gen, therefore it certainly shouldn't be slow.

My bad..... It's actually a CF-C1

I do have a 120 gb ssd.... Any good way to transfer or clone windows to the new drive?

I have an HP Pavilion desktop PC with an HP w2207h widescreen flat-panel monitor. For the past week when booting the computer the monitor has begun with the usual process except that it shows "No VGA Signal" then the screen goes black. The power button light repeatedly fades in and out and a small popping sound accompanies it but no beeps. I have tried the moving the mouse, the escape button, and the sleep button which will put the monitor to sleep and when I waken it the No VGA Signal shows before the screen once again goes black. Then the power button resumes its going off and on along with the popping sound. The monitor eventually lights up with the "enter password" screen and WORKS fine until booting up the next day. It took 45 minutes before the password screen came on today.
Hopefully there are two attachments with some system information that may be helpful,; however, I am a newbie to screenshots and attachments. Also hopefully someone will view this and be able to tell me what fix may be possible for my problem.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]I see that my screenshots are the same rather than two separates so I am making another attempt today. I am not sure if any of the shots are pertinent information to the issue. Thanks in advance for your understanding.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Sorry to be the bearer of sad news

But most likely the monitor has a fault which will require an electronic fix.
Can you try another monitor on the computer to confirm this ?
Software or settings don't cause symptoms like you describe. The "popping sound" you described means Lisa is probably correct...Thanks for the advice Lisa_maree and patio.
Today I powered on my Pavilion but waited a couple minutes before turning on the monitor. The monitor cycled normally for a change and was ready for password within 20 seconds. I will see how it responds in future days, it will be nice if it continues working properly again; if not I will heed your advise Lisa_maree. I assume that the monitor requiring an electronic fix likely means replacing the monitor since the cost of a repair shop could be more than the price of a new purchase.
jusmeyall Quote

I assume that the monitor requiring an electronic fix likely means replacing the monitor since the cost of a repair shop could be more than the price of a new purchase.

Im looking to upgrade but my budget wont COVER a new system. I mostly just want to know what is holding me back more when it comes to gaming. I think its my gpu holding me back, but i just wanted some advice before i buy. I was looking at getting a gtx 970 maybe.

My system:
Gtx 660 2gb
I5 3570k
750Watt psu
16Gb ram
Asus motherboard
1Tb hdd
120 gb ssdDo you have a budget limit?
Are really into  gaming?
Many think you have to get the best Intel CPU you can afford.
Here are some reasons:
   Better single core performance.
   Better power efficiency.
   Superior options for high-end users seeking MAX FPS

You can get the best CPU now and later upgrade the GPU.

Also. right now it is hard to say where AMD is going. They are having some issues. If you go AMD you may not have a good upgrade path.

And why do a gaming PC? Why not just buy a top console?
Some say consoles are better for all your entertainment needs.

Iam really into gaming. When im not doing work or doing something school related, i game. It's kind of destroyed my social life but thats besides the point. I prefer pc gaming to consoles, i think its cheaper and better. I pretty much abandoned consoles after the 360. I was hopeing not to spend more than like $350. Iv'e run into performance issues with high intensity games like gta v and farcry 4. A year and a half ago i could run nearly any game on ultra but my systems lost it's edge.It is hard to upgrade a gaming PC. If you want the best, it gets expensive.
Its the motherboard.  Unless it is a LGA 1150 and can take a newer CPU of that type.

Let me assume you want to upgrade the motherboard.

Here is a short summary from:
HTTP://www.pcgamer.com/the-best-gaming-motherboards/

The best budget motherboard (LGA 1150)
AsRock Fatal1ty
The best mid-range motherboard (LGA 1150)
Asus Z97 Pro Gamer
The best high-end motherboard (LGA 1150)
Asus Z97 Pro Wi-Fi/USB 3.1
The best Intel Extreme motherboard (LGA 2011 v3)
Asus X99 Rampage V

Is you motherboard as good as any of the above?
You can safely ignore the above, the performance has nothing to do with your motherboard.

Out of everything there your GPU would most likely be what's holding you back, what sort of resolution are you running at?  Do the performance issues stop if you run the game at a lower resolution?camerongray. I run every game at a standard 1920x1080, nothing fancy like 4k. I will not go lower, i'm stubborn there. I think my gpu is just getting outdated and i think with the gtx 970 being at a low 300 hundred right now on newegg, i should get it but i wanted another PERSONS opinion. I would buy a 980 but it's just not in my budget.

geek-9pm. My mother board is lga 1150.I was suggesting decreasing the resolution purely to test as this would put less strain on the GPU, if it runs fine at a lower resolution then it is most likely being limited by your GPU, if it still struggles at a lower resolution then I'd lean towards it being the CPU more.Camerongray. I see what your saying now, i'll have to test that when i get home tonight.camerongray.  Update: i put the res down to 720 ing gta V and it looks aweful but there was a huge differance. It looks like a 40-60fps differance.Update: i ordered the 970 g1 gaming gigabyte edition for $300. Thankyou for the tip on resolution.

I need opinions on this parts list... I'm BRAND new to BUILDING. THANKS for any help.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/YLzYD3

My laptop doesn't run in safe mode like the screen displays safe mode in 4 corners when the mouse is on the screen but then the mouse dissapears and resets in the centre and I can't doooo anyting
And in normal mode it boots but then it like boots then  black screen then 5 min later conhost.exe stopped working I click OK then the same message but for werfault and srflauncher the error code was 0xc0000142
Please help me
Thank uThere are other options to boot in safe mode.
5 Ways To Boot Into Safe Mode In Windows 8.1No like it doesn't work at all in any safe mode
And like this lion thing logo come s in normal modeA Lion thing ? ?Do you remote into another computer or is another computer remoting into your system?

SRFLauncher.exe belong to Splashtop Streamer module developed by Splashtop Inc.  http://www.splashtop.com/

If you let the system sit there long enough can you access safe mode I would strongly suggest that you remove the software.  You may also turn off the Wifi and if connected via cable disconnect that.Yes I actually did use splasthop streamer just to like try and run gta 4 on my mobile I know that was stupidSo like if I wait for 1 hr it will let me access safe mode?
Quote from: patio on AUGUST 24, 2015, 03:04:30 PM

A Lion thing ? ?

The COMPANY behind it is horrible
The final reason I’d love to switch away from Splashtop is that the company Splashtop annoys me. I’ve used Splashtop since it was the underdog, the tiny little unknown remote computing app that was grateful for every new customer willing to give it a shot. As it GREW, prices rose, the human aspect of the company disappeared, and one of the most drastic transformations into a greedy corporation I’ve ever seen occurred. It’s now a company that SPLITS out new features into in-app purchases or separate apps, charges subscription fees not only for subscription services, but also access to new features altogether, and uses marketing practices that are outright illegal here in Norway by claiming apps are on sale despite them having been “on sale” since they launched.

If I were you I would try reinstalling windows. Do you know when  the computer started malfunctioning?Lol

I have been following the user guide to find out how to scan 35 mm color negatives on my hp scanjet 3970 printer, but I got stuck after step 4, as shown below.  I quote from the guide:-

Step 4  Press the SCAN button. A dialog box appears asking what you are scanning.

Step 5  Select PICTURE

Step 6  Click SCAN

Step 7  Select NEGATIVES FROM A TRANSPARENT MATERIALS ADAPTER (TMA).

I cannot do Step 5 as I don not have PICTURE in the dialog box.  I chose Photo instead, but it did not work.

I cannot find what's mentioned in Step 7 above.

Can anyone kindly help please?

Joseph

Is this guide matched for the same version driver/scan utility software your using?

Is this software/driver an exact match to the version of Windows your running?


* I have run into issues in the past with legacy scanners and new OS such as a scanner that is Windows XP era and using scanner with Windows 7 on an HP and a Canon scanner. My SOLUTION was to use the older driver as for the newer driver/software package lacked features. I was able to force Windows 7 to install the XP software utility/driver. The Windows 7 versions seems like a quick fix to make the scanners functional to scan documents, but button features and other advanced features were non functional under the Windows 7 drivers for legacy scanner.

Years ago for an even older scanner I had to get a Kodak file hack to get the legacy scanner to work with Windows XP. This required extracting the Kodak scanner software off of a Windows 2000 Pro OEM CD and install that fresh to XP which lacked the Kodak software that as bundled with Windows 2000 Pro.

Possible relevance:
TRANSPARENT MATERIALS ADAPTER for HP Scanjet
Quote

The TMA is integrated into the lid of the scanner.

We have a Unit that is having trouble with the way we are wanting it too display on the monitors.  This is the motherboard in the unit Intel D848PMB Socket 478 Desktop Motherboard, and we put this Card in it for dual Monitor use; Nvidia Geforce2 mx/mx 400, Windows XP.  I installed the driver through Windows Updates, but, it's able too see both of the monitors but, will not attach the secondary display.  I contacted Nvidia, and installed there driver and no longer see's the second one after it's installed.  When I use the one through the updates it blacks out both of the screens then.  TRIED attaching it too another setup that has dual monitoring and the same thing, still occurs.  Tried also, replacing the DVI Cable too the monitor and still no changes.  Tried a different monitor also, on DVI and still the same.  Replaced the card with another one of the same and still the same.  We NEED too be able too have this working for the usage of the unit.With NVidia driver installed, are you trying to configure the 2nd display through Windows Display Properties or through the NVidia Display Property Tool?

I have seen before where Windows can not see the 2nd display, but from within the NVidia software there is a tool to adjust the properties for the card to enable dual displays, change screen rotation, and various other settings that are outside of Windows controls for specific card. Quote from: DaveLembke on August 06, 2015, 08:35:10 AM

With NVidia driver installed, are you trying to configure the 2nd display through Windows Display Properties or through the NVidia Display Property Tool?

I have seen before where Windows can not see the 2nd display, but from within the NVidia software there is a tool to adjust the properties for the card to enable dual displays, change screen rotation, and various other settings that are outside of Windows controls for specific card.

With NVidia driver installed, are you trying to configure the 2nd display through Windows Display Properties or through the NVidia Display Property Tool?

I have seen before where Windows can not see the 2nd display, but from within the NVidia software there is a tool to adjust the properties for the card to enable dual displays, change screen rotation, and various other settings that are outside of Windows controls for specific card.

Then you will have to perform manual installation by manually selecting Legacy with options I show in the attached pic of prior post and then click search and download and install the XP driver which is outdated, but the latest for that GeForce 2 MX400.

Then you will have to perform manual installation by manually selecting Legacy with options I show in the attached pic of prior post and then click search and download and install the XP driver which is outdated, but the latest for that GeForce 2 MX400.

Hi there

I have a home built computer that was made in 2004. (built for me by a techie guy; i have a rudimentary understanding of what the parts are but no more than that, no ability to tinker with the inside of a PC myself).

It's been used as a music workstation only, it has never been connected to the Internet, running windows XP.

I have two hard drives, one for o/s & audio apps (2 partitions), another for data (4-5 partitions)

The computer has been running like a dream for a DECADE, but I recently went away for a few days so shut down the power.

When I came back, I hit the power switch on the computer before plugging it back in, and it powered on briefly, presumably from some RESIDUAL power left inside.

I plugged it in, hit the power again, and again, it came on briefly but then off again.

I hit the power once more and this time it powered up fully (and always does now), fans/optical drive lights come on, hard disk light is orange briefly then goes off, the green power light (bulb symbol on case) stays on - all seems ok except - I am getting this "blank screens no POST beep" problem - which I see has been discussed a bit on this forum and others.

In a nut shell: you hit the power switch, lcd leds go green briefly, the screens stay blank, screen leds goes back to orange, no POST beep, power off switch only works if you press and hold it.

The possible steps to resolve are in these youtube videos:

Simple tutorial
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4e73dtkGxiY

Advanced tutorial
https://m.youtube.com/watch?src_vid=4e73dtkGxiY&v=_EK9a-R5pss&feature=iv&annotation_id=annotation_2380649897

The advice is to try each of these steps to:
 
1 - unplug everything from the back of the pc and power up
2 - remove cmos battery from motherboard, set caps from 1-2 position to 2-3 position to clear cmos memory.
3 - remove component by component from motherboard, trying each time to see if it fixes problem.
4 - Bread-boarding (remove motherboard from case and place on non conductive surface. try power.

if none of these resolve the issue, then one of 3 remaining components could be gone (power supply, cpu or motherboard)

I am not going to be able to do any of this work myself (obviously I've tried no.1), so I will need to get an engineer to look at it. But before I do, I have a few questions:


1 - If this was caused or triggered by a surge of residual power inside the machine, (when it was switched on with no power supply) does this suggest a prognosis? I'm trying to glean WHETHER I may need to REPLACE one or more components. Which leads to my next question:

2 - I've listed the machine components below - GIVEN these components are over 10yrs old, where could I get replacements or compatible alternatives?

3 - If one or more components are replaced and the problem is fixed, what does this mean for my o/s, programs and data on my hard drives - should it all just work as before once the hardware is fixed? I guess the engineer will do some level of software install, BIOS setup when installing any replacement parts etc but hopefully all else should be ok? (Unless the hard drives are the problem  ) 

Anyhoo, many thanks for reading  - and to anyone who can give any helpful advice, many many thanks!

Best Regards
Juice 

Machine components

Motherboard
MSI MS-6758 (socket 478)

Processor
Intel P4 3ghz pc800 pga478

Memory
Corsair twin x10243200ll ddr-dimm 124mb

Hard disk 1
Seagate barracuda 7200 160gb s-ata 8mb, s-ata/150  8mb cache

Hard disk 2
Maxtor diamondmax 7200 80gb ide/ata 133

Video card
Matrox AGP millenium g550 32mb dual dvi "low profile" ddr-ram

Screens: 2x lg 17inch lcd

Case: chieftec dragon miditower

2x optical drives
lg dvd recorder ide gsa-4040b
lg cd burner ide
Hi

It's a good that you have decided where to stop diagnoses this computer. It also seems that the programs and data are very important.
It is most likely that the main board has failed capacitors which could be replaced, There isn't so many people doing this work, due this problem not happening so much with modem motherboards. A computer tech would diagnose the capacitors  very quickly, they look like this when they have failed. http://www.capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/
So what can you expect the tech to do for you.
Discuss with you the options to repair or replace the faulty computer.
Make sure that you both know how you want to use the computer and your special requirements. 
Then a full backup of the 2 drives. This is very important !!!!
Source and supply a reliable machine, they may need to replace the IDE drive with a sata
Set the new computer up with your copy of windows and programs, they should be able to get your windows booting with the new hardware.

 
If your able to locate a like motherboard you could perform a 1 for 1 swap. But the only one I see is insanely priced for a board this obsolete as seen here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/MSI-875P-Neo-FISR-PCB-2-0-MS-6758-V2-0-MotherboardV2-0-Motherboard-/171772551655?hash=item27fe7121e7

The motherboard is only worth really $20-$30 and not $123.49  .... some would argue that its not even worth $20 because its so old. However if it was a system that I would want to get back up and running with exact motherboard, $30 is the max I would pay for a motherboard this old myself.

As Lisa stated though perhaps your board could be saved if its bad caps etc. I have performed the cap replacement myself before buying replacement capacitors through mouser electronics and for less than $5 replace the bad caps and have a healthy board again. Just have to be careful with polarity to match the polarity otherwise they explode. Requires some soldering skill to pull it off. I have even had to add a small PCB with capacitors on it with wires strung and soldered to the leads of the old capacitors that were removed in some situations where replacement capacitors were slightly larger than the originals but same voltage and uF rating to fix systems.

Many thanks to you both for your replies.  I will report back after my engineer takes a look. Fingers crossed its fixable!

Thanks again
JuiceWish i had an engineer...

Should I go with a NOTE 3 or 4? should I go with another note device..... 

Suggestions please!

Hi. My first post here.

While performing a hdd erasure to an old 160gb Maxtor with Partedmagic tool, the computer crashed and the wiping process failed, making the drive unuseable again. Is there anything I can do to revive it?

Kind regards
Roberto
Just re-start the process...did you do this in Windows ...or from a boot CD ? ?Maxtor hasn't been around for awhile so i wouldn't trust it as a main HDD...fine for some backups though.I did it from a bootable CD. I have restarted the process several TIMES with the same result: erased failed. The main purpose for the hdd was to store files temporarily. Quote

I have restarted the process several times with the same result: erase failed.

Hi everyone!

I'm new here and just assembled my new pc.

Although I have some problems. Here is what happens:

-Power on
-2 beebs
-Mem led flashes once red
-GPU fans are not spinning
-CPU fan spins, case fan spins
-F2 to BIOS
-MB recognises my CPU, RAM and HDD
-No info in South bridge about my video card.

Part list:

MB: Asus M5 R97 R 2.0. AM3+ Socket, PCIe 2.0 x16 slot (blue 16x, black 8x), 4 x DIMM Max 32GB DDR3 2133(O.C)/1866/1600/1333/1066MHz
CPU: AMD FX 8350 8-core 4.0 GHz AM3+ with heat sink what came with t.
PSU: Corsair CX500, 500W
GPU: Asus, Radeon R7 370 O.C, PCIe 3.0, 2Gb STRIX
RAM: ASint DDR3 1600, 2x4Gb
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 1Tb.
One case fan.

Tested also with GT640 3GD3/DP graphics card and same thing happens as with the R7 370.

Main power PIN is securely attached into MB as is the 8pin EPU.
With R7 setup there is also one 6pin cable attached to it, video card led is green.

Tried to re-attach MEMORY and all the power cables from PSU and video card.

"Breadboard" tested the setup also out of the case, if there was short circuit from the motherboard screws, no luck.

GPU gives hdmi out to my display. So I can use BIOS

Any suggestions? I'm out of ideas, or I have missed something very obvious 

-Whiskers




I would look up the beep codes....more than 1 at POST means something....
Also did you mean it did the same on breadboard test ?
Quote from: patio on September 20, 2015, 09:07:43 AM

I would look up the beep codes....more than 1 at POST means something....
Also did you mean it did the same on breadboard test ?

If the BIOS doesn't even see the RAM then wrong RAM...not seated properly...or as you said bad MBoard...

Have you tried a different Vid card slot ? ?
Are you positive the vid card is fully seated with the hold down screw fastened ? ?

It's either the PSU...or the MBoard then...

Anytime...Best of Luck...
If they are worth their salt they'll fixya right up...

Glad to hear you are fixed up.....not sure why a HDD would cause additional Post beeps though.

Screen of MSI CR630 does not turn on when I press power button. The light for power turns on and I can hear the ventilation, also DVD-ROM drive is possible to open but screen does not show ANYTHING. What I can do? Thank you.Is it possible that you may have knocked the wires loose? The video chip could also be burned out, or it might just be the screen.I tried on external monitor but it also does not show anything. But the ANOTHER computer works on that external monitor. So that means that monitor of that MSI computer is not the REASON?RAM is left from the hard drive (marked with ARROWS) and to remove these TWO I do not need to remove the keyboard?

http://shrani.si/f/2C/E2/2abMO0KH/cats.jpg

I don't get good internet in my house SINCE I am far from the router. INSTEAD of using an Ethernet cable through the wall, are there any USB WiFi boosters that are good that can boost my signal. Right now I only get 11 Mbps which is extremely slow (~ 1.5 MBps). I saw this one that is supposed to boost your signal up to 300mbps, but I just want to know if they actually work. If anyone can give me advice or even link me to a good usb booster that would be great. Thanks!300mbps is the maximum speed it can do.  It will still be limited by distance from the router the same way you are now.  Without trying it, there is no telling if a USB adapter will be any better than what you are using currently.  What you really should be using if distance is an issue is a WiFi repeater placed somewhere in the middle between your computer and the router which will broadcast a stronger signal for you to connect to.Cantenna... Quote

What you really should be using if distance is an issue is a WiFi repeater placed somewhere in the middle between your computer and the router which will broadcast a stronger signal for you to connect to.

There are three settings of interest, the first being TX Power. This is the broadcasting power of your transmitting antenna. The DEFAULT is a safe value of 70, but we can kick it up a bit. Most people report that jumping up to a 100 is safe. Pushing it higher can cause excessive heat which can damage your router. I don’t have to worry about that since my “server area” is cold and I’m also a bit reckless, so I kicked mine up to 150. It’s been that way for a few weeks and I haven’t had a problem yet, but your mileage may vary. Use your common sense and discretion.

It also improves security. The beam is rather narrow and not likely to be intercepted.

Does some of you somehow know if LUMIA 820 will get its update for Windows 10 ?

As far as i know most of the Lumia devices will get the update... STILL my 820 is currently not taking it...

Do CPU-registers contain data, or just instructions for MANIPULATING data contained in the RAM?


I know they contain 'values' too, but I'm not sure what these are. Is a value a form of data? Could someone explain values in terms of the following scenario:

Quote

person opens a .txt FILE containing the following text: "hello hello"

Initialize the program.
load a register DX with a pointer to a string.
load another register, CX  with the length of the string.
Loop here
load another register,  BX  with the value in the memory pointed by DX
Load AX with the function number print_char
Call the system
increment the pointer in DX
decrease   the number in CX
If it is not yet  went to zero, go back to loop here
Load AX with 75
Call system
String: hello hello

Hi there!

It's my first time posting here on the forum. Hope I can get some help!

I have an intermitent issue on my keyboard. Every now and then when I turn my notebook on some of the Keys don't work.
It happens right from the start when Windows asks me to type my computer password.
When I try to type the password I press some of the Keys on the keyboard and nothing happens.
Even the "Enter" key sometimes is not working. But just some Keys don't work. Other Keys work fine.
Like "A" Works fine and "K" doesn't work.

Also, if I use the virtual keyboard all of the Keys work just fine.
So I'm afraid it's not a vírus as I guess it wouldn't work well that way either.

I already REMOVED and reinstalled the keyword driver again and it didn't fix either.
It also doesn't seem that the keyboard is broken because sometimes it works just fine.

The issue is really intermitent.

Any clues?

 

 

thanks!
this is very minor issue nothing to worry about. And no need of any install software and driver for this PROBLEM. you got no help with this. the problem is of your keyboard membrane. you have to changed it, you can do it yourself if you have. its not a thing easily available in MARKET. just go to service center of keyboard and describe your problem.
keyboard membrane is rubber type pad below the keys with lot of wiring in it.  The OP did not say what kind of keyboard he has.
If this is a computer under warranty, he needs to use the warranty.

If the OP or anybody spilled a soft drink on it, it has to be cleansed completely.
If it is a Desktop, he can simply plug in a replacement Keyboard.
Is this a Desktop?

Some REGIONS of the WORLD have unusual keyboards.
Was this computer bought in North America?
If not, where?

I have a Dell 1702FP, the power supply ADAPTER, works WITHOUT it being CONNECTED too the monitor but, when I connect too the monitor and it under load it starts FLASHING.  I'm LOOKING too replace it, dell ad-4214n