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Hi all,

I have a IBM R50e Laptop and the sound does not appear to work.  I can get IBM low battery sounds (in other words BIOS system sounds) but not windows system sounds.
I only seem to have these in the Sound, video and GAME controllers section

• Audio Codecs
• Legacy Audio DRIVERS
• Legacy Video capture Devices
• Media Control Devices
• Video Codecs

but not windows system sounds

How about checking your Sounds and Audio devices defaults and volume control under Control Panel?

Hi, I would just LIKE to know how to set my fans for the case I have. I'd like to know which should blow in and which out. I have one large fan on the top of the case, one at the back and 2 at the front over the HARDDRIVE bays. (PICTURE of case in link below.)

http://www.ebuyer.com/product/118268I worked it out, fans blow in at the front and out at the top and back. My cpu temp was 55c, now it's 45c since I did this  Good job.  THANKS for letting us know.

Riiighhht.....

The story goes LIKE this..

I plug my external wd scorpio 160gb after some time (had some bangs-plugged it out lots of times without ejecting it..) and it wouldnt work. I couldnt hear or FEEL the disks inside turning. I plug the usb out then in again, then another port....it started coughing and then i could see my files but was slow as *censored*.

Not being able to do anything neither copy my files i ran chkdisk.......Full scan and repair bad CLUSTERS or whatever it says there.

So when chkdisk finishes the disk was healthy running but there were no folders in there while it was almost full!

so i guessed FOUND files!!! And i was right.... 4 of them....

My question is...Because i know my stuff is in there... and the disk now runs again, (I renamed one of the .CHK files inside of one of the FOUND folders to avi just to check and yeaapp...It was one of my californication episodes.)

Can i get my data back?

Is there a way , software or else to rename those chk files back to normal?

Any help is appreciated as always .

Thanks in advance!

Sander Quote

Can i get my data back?

Is there a way , software or else to rename those chk files back to normal?

I just put a PC together a week ago and I've been wondering if my psu is the CORRECT size for the build.

My specs:

case:                    RAIDMAX SMILODON ATX-612WB
case fans:            2 120mm; 1 80mm
motherboard:       MSI 770-G45 AM3 AMD 770
CPU:                     AMD PHENOM II X2 555 Black Edition Callisto 3.2GHz (overclocked to 3.6ghz)
Heatsink:              ARCTIC COOLING FREEZER 64 Pro 92mm
GPU:                     MSI GeForce GTX 460 Cyclone 1GB (overclocked)
PSU:                     Ultra Products Lsp550 Lifetime Series Pro 550w
HDD:                     300GB (came with old DELL)
RAM:                     A-DATA Gaming Series 2GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600

-also running floppy and DVD/rw drives

Everything seems to run fine, I'm just worried about any future problems I may have. If anymore info is needed I'll be glad to provide it! Thanks. 

By size do you mean the 550 watts? That should be fine if it has also got the right pins for the graphics card.How do you like that case ? ? Quote from: Crafty on September 16, 2010, 02:19:20 AM

By size do you mean the 550 watts? That should be fine if it has also got the right pins for the graphics card.

How do you like that case ? ?

Only you can tell. A 5400 or 5900 rpm drive is not junk by any means. You won't have an unusable or even particularly slow system.

Quote from: CITYSCAPE on September 09, 2010, 01:02:21 PM

So is CoolerMaster okay? I sure hope so because I'm not sure if I could afford anything more pricey. These are my 3 options for a CoolerMaster PSU:
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171028
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171031
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171046
The first 2 are are CoolerMaster eXtreme Power Plus and the last one is a CoolerMaster Elite, which do you think is better?

Are they all compatible with my motherboard (remember, I know very little about PSU's)? And will these power supplies have enough power to power my computer? I couldn't find information anywhere about my much power the Asus graphics card needs.

And thanks a lot GUYS for helping (that's what I like about CH) me with this!

But this motherboard has a 8-pin CPU power connector, the other one had a 4-pin connector. So what I'm wondering is, is the same PSU still compatible?

I have laptop of compaq, recently i have installed window7, but webcam is not working.
I am able to find the driver for for cam, but while TRING to open, it does not work.Try LOOKING in device manager for a yellow exclaimation. If you find it, right click and update drivers. Then GO to the FOLDER where you downloaded the driver and it should install.

Update: Nevermind, I found what was causing the problem. 
It was a driver conflict between the new graphic card and the EXTERNAL soundcard. Booting into safe mode and removing all ATI drivers of the graphic card solved the problem. The external sound card still isn't reconised, but that's no big deal. I'm using the on-board one now, although it greatly cut off on sound quality. But it's okay, it's not like that computer can really support music-making software anymore anyway.

Still, again, a huge "thank you" to everyone who helped. I don't think I'd have had the patience to go through repairing this computer without your support. In the end, it cost me much more time and headache than money, so I guess it was worth it  Quote from: GRAPEFRUIT on September 08, 2010, 01:52:01 PM

Update: Nevermind, I found what was causing the problem. 
It was a driver conflict between the new graphic card and the external soundcard.
...The external sound card still isn't reconised, but that's no big deal. I'm using the on-board one now...

Try the sound card in a different slot.  It sometimes resolves the conflicts.

i have a HP pavillon notebook, 2 years old, 160GB HDD, 4GB DDR2, AMD Athlon 64*2 2ghz processor. the laptop was running fine, then it locked up, i restarted it and it TURNS on, all leds are lit, i can hear the PSU fan spining but no video on the screen. i already TRIED an external monitor still no video, nothing on the screen, no beepcode. i already tried the memory i dont think its a memory issue. please HELP me.did you try opening the laptop case and check if the cpu fan is still running? did you wait a little between each restart to ensure that it had time to cool and to discharge CAPACITORS?Also - try removing the battery and leaving it for a while - that will ALLOW the laptop's components to fully discharge.

I just set up a multimedia system for a BUDDY with the PC (new gateway, can't remember model #, DX something) connected to flatscreen tv via HDMI CABLE using a Hauppauge HVR-850 TV tuner (USB) for tv signal and Windows MEDIA Center as main tool for TV/DVR ETC. However, he's having a problem. He says after watching a show for a little while, all of a sudden the sound stops completely and he has to reboot to GET it back. This is very weird to me that it's intermittent. I can figure out when sound is not working completely, but this is foreign to me. Any ideas? Thanks.

My Compaq Presario desktop was returned to me from a friend and when I tried hooking everything up I heard beeps. One short followed by one LONG. Also, the monitor says no signal so I can't see what may be going on during the START up. I tried re-sitting my MEMORY sticks, blew out the dust, checked my CONNECTIONS. All to no avail.You can go to the website of your BIOS provider and check out the beep codes, but I'm guessing there's a problem with the video card.

my computer freezes randomly when playing games, watching videos, and it even froze after about 30minutes into a virus scan earlier today. there has also been one time that the computer stayed on but monitor shut off. i really need help because i hate having to reboot my computer every 30minutes because of freezing.Please, post some computer info:
- processor type, amount of RAM (hold Windows logo key, hit Pause/Break key)
- hard drive size/free space (open "My Computer", right click on hard drive letter, click "Properties")
- security programs in use (antivirus, firewall)

========================================================================

Download, and install SpeedFan: http://www.almico.com/sfdownload.php
Post your computer temperatures:



amd athlon 64processor 2800
32bit operating system
installed memory(ram) 2.00gb(1.00gb usable)
hard drive capacity 298gb.
215gb freespace
avira antivirus
norton antivirusSpeedFan results are missing.

You can't run two AV programs.
One of them has to go.

If Norton, make sure to use Norton Removal Tool: http://www.symantec.com/norton/support/kb/web_view.jsp?wv_type=public_web&docurl=20080710133834EN
If Norton removed, make sure to turn Windows firewall ON.i dont know how to take a picture of the speedfan and post on here and which one do you prefer to remove? i think i should keep the norton?Write the numbers down and type them into your reply.

If you want to keep Norton, uninstall Avira.temp1 79c
temp2 127c
temp3 40c
core 35cDownload, and install Everest Ultimate Edition 4.6: http://downloads.guru3d.com/Everest-Ultimate-Edition-4.6-Free-License-download-2298.html
Enter following registration code (Help>Enter product key) to make it fully functional:
RHGJE-54X47-HML9C-V498I-UUMVI
(it's all legal, the above version has been recently offered as a free download; Source)

Expand Computer folder.
Click on Sensor.
Post all info from there.
  Sensor Properties:
      Sensor Type                                       ITE IT8712F  (ISA 290h)
      Motherboard Name                                  ECS nForce3-A
      Chassis INTRUSION Detected                        Yes

    Temperatures:
      CPU                                               38 °C  (100 °F)
      Seagate ST3320620AS                               45 °C  (113 °F)

    Cooling Fans:
      CPU                                               3668 RPM

    Voltage Values:
      CPU Core                                          1.52 V
      +1.5 V                                            1.47 V
      +3.3 V                                            3.02 V
      +5 V                                              4.95 V
      +12 V                                             11.46 V
      +5 V Standby                                      4.70 V
      DEBUG Info F                                      2E FF 00
      Debug Info T                                      79 127 38
      Debug Info V                                      5F 5C BD B8 B3 80 58 (67)

They look fine.
Uninstall Avira and see how it goes.Could be a heat problem, memory or psu (power supply unit) issue if it's not just software related.

I noticed you put the first time:
Quote

temp1 79c
temp2 127c
temp3 40c
core 35c

temp2 127c is extreme

Broken/Unplugged/Not available sensors report either -128 or 127. There is a sensible reason for this.

I am looking for a replacement motherboard for my HTPC. I need something Intel LGA 775 that will support a CELERON D (352). It must have SATA and a PCIe slot. I have 1 GB of DDR2 533, and 512 MB of DDR2 533 as well as 1 GB of DDR 667 and 512 MB of the same, so support for either speed would be great. I would prefer onboard digital audio, but this is not a huge issue, as I can always add a card if necessary. MICROATX form factor. This is pretty much all i need.

Since these are "legacy" specs, it's hard to find something in the primary market where items are fully detailed and reviewed. Therefore, I am flying blind in the secondary market without specific model numbers.

Anyone have any suggestions to investigate?

Thanks

PK
Your wastin your money continuing to support that CPU...

However this is just my opinion...others may have better advice...Please explain.

I have already spent $30 trying to GET this current motherboard to support more than 1 GB of RAM, even though EVERY resource tells me that it should support up to 2 GB.  I need to keep my costs low.  As a result, I assumed that my lowest cost option would be to REPLACE the motherboard, since all of the other components appear to be functional.

Are you suggesting that I can get a newer motherboard AND CPU (that will support my RAM) for a similar cost?

PKYes...that in my opinion would be a better investment as your upgrading both at once...
Being limited to the CPU you have cuts down your choices drastically yet you would still be spending money.I understand where you are coming from.  I just assumed that the cheapest way out would be to replace the motherboard only.

My main issue with the combo option is that I do not want to have to buy RAM.

I just purchased (2) 1gb DDR333 PC2700 unbuffered, low density memory sticks for my computer (I had it scanned for compatability).  The memory sticks I got are recognized by the computer, but won't allow my son to play his warcraft game. (he can play it if I take put the original stick back in).  The new sticks have 18 small chips on each side.  also they say 1G pc2700 UDIMM 2RX8 on a sticker attached.  I'm thinking they must have SENT the wrong chips? (this is the second time they have sent me incorrect stuff).  The 16 chips on each side throws me as I have not been able to find any similar LOOKING sticks on line at all.

Thank you for your help.

WheezieWhat do you mean they "won't allow" your son to play his game?
The computer will not play the game with the new memory installed.  It comes up with a "fatal" error.

thank you.Yes, sounds like they may be FAULTY or incompatible. I take it you didn't get this "fatal" error before?

Correct,

The computer recognizes the memory now as 1.99 GB.  As soon as he tries to play the game in the drive, it starts ACTING whacky.

I don't recognize this memory stick as it has 16 small black chips on each side instead of the 8 most 1GB sticks have.  I'm not sure if it is uncommon? just plain not for my computer.

Thanks again!where did you buy this new memory stick from?

An exchange, replacement or RETURN may be in order.

Hi, Could someone tell me if this is the Tem of my Graphics card Gpu? The one that reads - GPU   62 °C (144 °F) 
On my other computer it's only 25C IDLE so is this FAR to high at 62C idle? Thanks!!

Temperatures: 
   Motherboard   41 °C (106 °F) 
   CPU   44 °C (111 °F) 
   CPU #1 / Core #1   45 °C (113 °F) 
   CPU #1 / Core #2   42 °C (108 °F) 
   GPU   62 °C (144 °F) 
   GPU Memory   54 °C (129 °F) 
   GPU Ambient   50 °C (122 °F) 
   
  Cooling Fans: 
   CPU   1433 RPM 
   GPU   709 RPM (40%) 
Doesn't seem unreasonable but what graphics card are you using (what are you comparing it to?) Every graphics card has it's own operational norms, they can even vary depending on the manufacturer (e.g. A Store brand GPU may run hotter than a saphire).It's an Nvidia 260GTX, I just check on their site and it says it's ok upto around 85°C, playing games. It can reach 100°C, but it's not RECOMMENDED.

I would like to replace my case and cpu fans with QUIETER models.  What info do I need to make sure I GET the right SIZE, etc, of fan.  How are the measurements and power calculated?  Any info appreciated.For the case fans I would check the width from ONE side to another and buy one the same size, just make sure the new one has the same PLUG on the end.

For the CPU one you should check the connection to the motherboard and more importantly, the CPU socket it is for.  You can usually find out the socket by looking up the model of your CPU on a search engine and then all you need to do is find a cooler that fits that socket.

Just make sure that you buy fans and a CPU cooler that have good performance and are quiet.  I'd get one from a big brand such as Antec/Coolermaster and many others.  Stay away from the no-name/strange brand ones.When replacing fans...especially CPU fans i usually take the old ones with me to match them up.Many thanks for replies and advice.

I just installed a new motherboard, and everything was working well, until the right hand speakers just quit working.  I thought it was the speakers, but through verification with KNOWN good speakers, the onboard sound appears to be putting out only on the left SIDE.  Is there any help or explanation for such a THING?Make sure everything is connected properly and reinstall the driver for the sound.if the speaker cable was yanked or pull on really hard the wires in side could be ripped i have a headset that does the same thing CUZ my dog decided to play tug it got ripped internally
Quote from: joey3124 on September 19, 2010, 08:03:40 AM

if the speaker cable was yanked or pull on really hard the wires in side could be ripped i have a headset that does the same thing cuz my dog decided to play tug it got ripped internally

Hi

Just a quick question I hope. I have 20GB of pictures on my computer and I want to move them to speed THINGS up. I have another internal drive that is empty (F:) can I just move them here or will I need to get an external drive to put them on?

Thanks
LorrieI'm not sure why you think that moving them will "speed things up", but, yes, you can move them to either an internal or external HARD drive.You can move them anywhere you like, but what makes you think that moving them will speed up anything?Just that my friends moved 3000 pictures off their computer and it is running better now?Unless your drive is essentially full, it will not have any effect.82GB used 62 GB free so I guess is doesn't matter then?CorrectThanks for your help everyone, one less thing for me to bother about today Quote from: lorrie73 on SEPTEMBER 19, 2010, 03:31:27 PM

82GB used 62 GB free so I guess is doesn't matter then?

The only reason to move them would be if somehow it helps you keep better organized.

F: is for Fotos?

It's one of those things, there's no reason to move them, but there's no reason not to move them.

hey all, i reformatted my computer a while back and now my USB ports are really slow even the ones at the back of the computer... I'm not sure if i need drivers or anything but if i do i cant find them anywhere. don't know if this will help or not but when i plug a USB device (ipod, or mass storage device) it says this device could preform faster if it has a USB 2.0
You need to install the chipset driver if you have not already done so.thanks for the reply
so how do i find the right drivers for my chipset? Quote from: juicebox on August 19, 2010, 10:12:51 AM

...so how do i find the right drivers for my chipset?

i built my computer myself but i dont know what motherboared i have

You need to install the chipset driver if you have not already done so.

i finished building my new GAMING rig today, and i got all the drivers to work, but i couldnt get this graphics card driver to work.... i am using windows xp PROFESSIONAL 32BIT, and i tried installing with the radeon cd drivers and its not detecting the driver, and i went to AMD and downloaded the latest drivers and its still not detecting them :s ....... i am thinking this might be because windows xp is very old, but i DUNNO... am thinking of buying windows 7 tonight to see if that helps....any one can make any SUGGESTIONS what to do? It has nothing to do with XP being older...That card has XP drivers...
What exactly did you do trying to install the drivers from the CD that shipped with it ? ?

Hi,

I BOUGHT the new 1GB RAM for my computer other day and after PUTTING the new RAM to the emply slot, i tried to CLEAN the CPU fan. Since, i have done that my monitor is showing "no signal" message. The CPU fan is working however, the LIGHTS at the back of the box are constant and not flashing.

I have checked previous post to find solution to my problem and as suggested by someone i have also took the GRAPHICS card out and put it again to resolve the problem.

Any suggestions on what should i do to get this problem solved?take the new RAM out and try it with just the old RAM.

I was planning on building a system but found a good deal on this - its  Dell Inspirion 570 3GB pc 8500 ram, WINDOWS 7, ATI RADEON HD4000 graphics, Athlon II X 4 630 CPU , 1TB hard drive, DVD burner and a wireless N card w/ dual antenas and a 23 inch widescreen monitor for 598.00 I would like to add a video card but cant decide on a decent card and was wanting a few ideas. THank you in advanceKnowing the BUDGET would be a good thing here...Specs say psu is 300W; no details on how much +12V current.
http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/insp560mt/en/cs/cs_en.pdf

Why don't you wait until you get it and see how it runs and what is printed on the psu?

hi there this is my first post on this website me and my dad are LOOKING to combine our to older DESKTOPS will have specs up soon thank you in advanced Quote from: joey3124 on September 19, 2010, 08:00:24 AM

hi there this is my first post on this website me and my dad are looking to combine our to older desktops will have specs up soon thank you in advanced

Can ANYONE help me?

I got a problem with the BASE SYSTEM device

i just click the my computer and right click the properties and then i saw a question MARK on the other device and i saw the base system device and has a question mark on it to.

I'm USING a asus 16jc,can anyone gave me a answer on this problem.

Please help me

sata 2. speeds are 300 MBps or you can SAY 3000 Mbps
What is the speeds of  sata 1?

I looked on google and just find how they work and wht they are?SATA Revision 1.0 (SATA 1.5 Gbit/s)
SATA Revision 2.0 (SATA 3 Gbit/s)
SATA Revision 3.0 (SATA 6 Gbit/s)Are the SATA III drives on the store shelves yet?

Are there motherboards that support SATA III yet?

JFYI......Did you know, that you can run an IDE 133 drive at SATA I speed if you use an IDE to SATA adapter?

I would have never believed it myself, had I not done it countless times with IDE drives of different sizes and different manufacturers. 

Cheers Mates!
The Shadow  Quote from: TheShadow on September 19, 2010, 04:39:43 PM

1.  Are the SATA III drives on the store shelves yet?
2.  Are there motherboards that support SATA III yet?
3.  JFYI......Did you know, that you can run an IDE 133 drive at SATA I speed if you use an IDE to SATA adapter?

So  sata 2. transfer speed is  3 Gbps so am I right this is also 300 MBps?
And 3 Gbps is also 3000 Mbps

My girlfriend has a Dell tower, about 7 years old, she powered it off lastnight for the first time in a very long time.

Went to power it up this morning and nothing, no idiot lights on the front panel.

The outlet is good the power cord to the tower is good.

Any suggestions ?

Thanks in advance,
MP.try the power supply in a different computer or take it in to a local computer shop and they can tell u if its dead it could very well be the MOTHER board to Quote from: joey3124 on September 19, 2010, 08:01:53 AM

try the power supply in a different computer

Borrow a known good PSU of the same or greater wattage and swap it in there...

If the PSU in the Dell was, say for instance, a 300W supply, replace it with at least a 450w supply, just to be safe.  Dell seriously overrates their supplies. 

I've owned dozens of Dell's both for home and business and have NEVER had a power supply issue. Dell's are no more prone to problems with power supplies than any other brand.

I always rest my thumbs below the space bar when I am typing.

I now have an Acer Laptop 244 LM with a terrible habit :-
When I am typing text it will randomly decide to drastically shift the insertion point of my stream of KEYBOARD characters.
It is never a graceful shift - it is always a terrible lurch to a distant region of the screen.

Specifically, whilst I am typing I only see the cursor at the point where I am inserting text.
If I then move the USB mouse or stroke the TOUCH pad mouse a second cursor appears in a totally different part of the screen.  I may continue typing at the first cursor position, and the second cursor can DISAPPEAR.   The second cursor position is remembered and a slight stroke causes it to reappear and start moving from the old position.
Regardless of whether the second cursor is visible or not, as soon as the mouse pad sees a thumb twitch it resurrects and tells the O.S. to instantly align the text insertion point to this stupid mouse position.

It is such a pain that I have to remember to disable the mouse pad with Fn-F7,
but this seems to be a pure hardware I/O feature that cannot be controlled by software.

I am happy to lose the entire mouse pad, and am about to instant glue a cover over it,
but would prefer to use a batch file or something on start-up.

I would like to try to reassign the "ACTION" key issued by the mouse pad to a harmless null action which will allow my thumbs to twitch and not disrupt my composition.

I would appreciate advice upon any batch or VBS SCRIPT that could do this under XP Home with SP3.

Alan
I think the easiest way would be to open up the laptop and unplug the mouse pad. Writing a vbscript or batch to disable this is impossible. Some assembly code would probably have to be written, and I am not good enough at that to make this work.Thanks, I am looking into your suggestion.

Before I retired I specialized in real-time embedded software for Alarm systems,
but was happy to have a shot at replacing the quad zif socket based processors and logic devices - though the zif EXTRACTOR some-times suffered, and if anything broke there were more in the stores.

Now I am here alone, being very cautious about risking any damage to my one and only computer.
I managed to replace a 256 MB stick with 1 GB - anxious waiting for the first restart.
I did not have courage to thump the HDD hard enough for an upgrade,
but my son works in IT and did the job for me.

I would like to know what perils I face before I attempt to disconnect the mouse pad.
I would appreciate advice upon how to gain access - preferably with diagrams.
(my son lives 200 miles away and I have no on site service agreement ! ! !)

Regards
Alan

hey having a little problem with my motherboard, or at least i think that is the problem. while power is still going though to the fans and lights, my comp doesn't seem to be loading the bios, i don't get anything displayed on my monitor.

I've tried a different monitor(not the problem)

I've disconnected the power cable and held the power button to drain access power and removed ram and video card to TRY and run the on board video(that also didn't help)

Help would be much appreciated, thanksExamine the board for leaking and/or broken capacitors.Is the display completely blank? If so, try a different display. Quote

Is the display completely blank? If so, try a different display.

I've tried a different monitor(not the problem)

I have just installed windows 7 ULTIMATE and installed all my programs I need. The problem is when I went to back it up USING Acronis True Image, I noticed that there was part of my HARD drive that read "System reserved 100MB NTFS." I have looked in my disk managment and it's right there infront of the C: drive, showing as "System reserved 100MB NTFS Healthy." For some reason It looks like it has partitioned the hard drive, but how do I get this off WITHOUT ruining all the install of Windows 7 and all the  programs I installed, I just want the drive as one without any partition.

Just to add this incase it's of any importance, I don't see this extra 100MB space as a hard drive when I click into MY COMPUTER. I only see it in Disk management and when I use Acronis to back up my hard drive.http://blogs.technet.com/b/uspartner_ts2team/archive/2010/03/13/what-is-the-windows-server-2008-r2-windows-7-system-reserved-partition.aspx

sir,
      my pc restart AUTOMATICALLY when i TRY to install new window Xp after few minuts BOOTING the cd it GOES to off. when i check the hdd to another pc it WORKING properly.ram also working properly but my pc is not startingYou need to explain in more detail.

Hi I  have a MS-6566E motherboard chipset i845E and is looking for a great graphics card compatible for it as i current have got Radion 9600 series with 3Gig RAM. Windows VistaTo be honest, there's no point for a NUMBER of reasons. That motherboard will only support a 478 socket Pentium 4 PROCESSOR and AGP 4X graphics, limiting how much you're really going to get out of that system anymore with a P4 processor and being limited to P4 and AGP graphics.

Newegg.com has a number of AGP 4X graphic cards still available (31 to be exact). A lot of those are going to be inferior to what you have (the 9600 was a good card back in the day) and I don't think the rest will give you much of an improvement, if any, on a P4 system running Vista.

Anyway, most of those cards in that link should be compatible as long as they're 1.5v cards (all that board supports). Honestly, I think you'd be wasting your money and my advice would be to save up for a new system if you're looking for improvement THOUGH.

Hey all,

I'm about to upgrade my ice age 30gb hard drive and finally install a 1/2 TB or a TB drive instead. *censored*, they're dirt cheap, I should have done it years ago but the move is the scary bit.

I'm WONDERING just how to go about adding a new HD, installing windows but then, how to access the old HD and drag files accross? e.g. Outlook pst files, personal files etc... is there a way to run both drives simultaneously and just install a new copy of Windows from disc, etc, then drag all the goodies over? There will be about 2-4 Gb of stuff to move. And I ask this in CASE once I install the new drive, if I discover I do need one more specific file from the old drive, how do I access it? Otherwise I could copy all these files to a FLASH and use that.

I'll be on XP SP3, with an AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual 5600+, 2.0GB ram, if that is important.

Cheers!Assuming your system has an open drive bay (and it probably does), just add the new drive and put the connections from the original drive on the new one and the second set of connectors on the old one. This will make the new drive the first drive the system sees. Then  boot to your OS CD and install it on the new drive. When you boot to the system you will be able to access both drives (though you may have to "take ownership" of the files on the old drive to access them:  http://support.microsoft.com/kb/308421)If you can't connect 2 HD in your computer, get an external USB enclosure for your old drive. Bonus points for being able to easily CARRY this drive around with you afterwards  check here:

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/293118

and/or here:

http://support.microsoft.com/search/default.aspx?query=transfer+files&catalog=LCID%3D1033&mode=r

My Logitech USB mouse is playing up. It seems to work fine to open up programs but, when I try to CLICK on ANYTHING in the program the screen kind of fades out and I can't do anything. The cursor still moves but I can't do anything with it within the program. I've tries updating the driver but It just said it couldn't find a more compatible one. Tried to troubleshoot but got nowhere. I have used a different USB mouse and that one is working fine so it seems as if the problem is with the mouse. Please help me before I throw the thing out of the window. BTW I no longer have the other mouse so am using the keyboard to navigate. I may be a little slow in responding.....

EDIT: Additional info, I am using Windows XP if that helps at all Quote from: Kellew85 on September 21, 2010, 04:38:20 AM

I've tries updating the driver but It just said it couldn't find a more compatible one.

Are you using the driver provided by Logitech? You can get a current driver from the Logitech Website.

I have had a weird occurrence. About 3 weeks ago I had the MB moved from one case to
ANOTHER.  After words I was moving data from various HDD (which had OS on them so they were mounted as slave)  As a result I was doing frequent  reboots. I was doing a reboot when the POST got to the point of simply recognizing that there was a PRIMARY slave and just stopped. No matter what I did the system would not respond.. If  I REBOOTED the same thing happened. So I unplugged it and let it sit a couple of days until I got get it to the shop. When I got it to the shop they plugged it in and it worked perfectly.
A couple of weeks later I was again doing frequent reboot when it happened again, except this time POST only go to the point of checking “NVRAM” when it stopped.
I decided to let it sit unplugged for a day. When I booted it again this time it go to the point of recognizing the primary master and stopped. I let it sit unplugged for another couple of days. Booted it again this time it worked perfectly since then. ??
Replace the CMOS battery...part # CR2032 available anywhere.

You may want to start SAVING up for a new PSU...

Hi,
I'm pretty new to all of this, but here goes:
I just built a computer for the very first time, and after having a couple of issues, I've almost got it up and running (I think). the issues were pretty minor but I suppose I should mention them anyway - the first one was that when I turned the computer on, all the fans would run, and the lights both in the case and on the motherboard would light up. The monitor wouldn't turn on at all, though, so I hooked the monitor up to my laptop, and it worked just fine for that, so I knew it wasn't a faulty monitor. So, I read somewhere that sometimes taking everything apart and putting it back together works, so I did that. Now, my computer does the same thing, except it gives me three (long?) beeps indicating some SORT of error. I did some reading about this, and found out that means either there's a problem with my keyboard (which is a usb keyboard and it doesn't make a difference if it's plugged in or not), or there's an issue with my RAM. I read one person's post who seemed to be having similar problems, and the people there told them that they had a problem with the motherboard or the ram, whether it's fried or just incompatible. I've tried running it on only one stick of ram, and i've tried running it with no ram, and it's the same whatever I do. I'm pretty certain the two are compatible, my ram is DDR3 1333, and the motherboard claims to be compatible with DDR3 1333/1066. Does this, in fact, mean that my motherboard is fried, or my memory is no good? did I do this myself? I wasn't wearing one of those weird static bracelet things, but I tried to touch grounded metal as often as possible. Here's what the motherboard and memory are:

Intel BOXDP43BF LGA 775 Intel P43 ATX Intel Motherboard
Mushkin Enhanced Silverline 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model 996585

Thanks in advance!What CPU & CPU fan?
I SUSPECT you didn't install the cpu to the cpu fan properly.

http://ark.intel.com/Product.aspx?id=43606
http://processormatch.intel.com/CompDB/SearchResult.aspx?BoardName=DP43BF Quote

Does this, in fact, mean that my motherboard is fried, or my memory is no good? did I do this myself?

Is your mobo purchased brand new or was used previously?
3 beeps could mean solely on your RAM modules. Try testing your RAM on another working computer of the same type and compatibility(check on any legit documentation or manual). Make sure USB controllers, USB Device Legacy Support are enabled under BIOS set-up utility.

...1.  I read somewhere that using the thermal pad already on the fan isn't great, but it works alright, so i just used that.
2.  the way the fan is supposed to be attached to the motherboard is a little sketchy in my opinion, they're just these things you twist and they expand and hook into the holes. it's a tiny bit wiggly, but i checked the other side, and all of them go through.
3.  There is another fan mounted on the back of the case ... which I didn't plug in because all of the plugs for the fans on the motherboard have 4 pins and the fan only has 3. it could probably fit in the 4 pin plug, but there would be a pin sticking out, and that makes me nervous.

however, notice that my monitor, while having ports for both dvi and vga, only has a cord for vga, and my graphics card only has ports for dvi, but it came with an adapter, so the monitor plugs in just fine. is that bad? should I get a dvi only cord?

Ok so I haven't tried this ever. I figure it might COME in handy to know in the future.

Can you clone a raid 1 on two hard drives ONTO a bigger hard drive and then hook that bigger one up with an identical drive and RUN a raid 1 on that? I WOULD not be installing the original drives again in the computer as it's an UPGRADE of space.

If so what software would I need to do it?
 


Thanks!

http://www.macrium.com/reflectfree.asp

Okay.it started with my computer acting a little slower.Then next thing was that the browser made no sounds.I try and listen to music:nothing.I try and watch a video:i see video but no sound.video looks nice,loads okay but no sound.Any advice?Try a system restore > Start/Accessories/SystemTools/SystemRestore - Take it back to a date that everything was ok. The slow down might also be spyware. There are plenty of free programs out there, so just grab one of them and run it for spyware.What is new or has changed since the sound worked ? ? Quote from: Crafty on September 18, 2010, 06:15:11 AM

Try a system restore > Start/Accessories/SystemTools/SystemRestore - Take it back to a date that everything was ok. The slow down might also be spyware. There are plenty of free programs out there, so just grab one of them and run it for spyware.

What is new or has changed since the sound worked ? ?

my computer acting a little slower

computer acting a little slower

256 mb DDR SDRAM

80 Gb

i heard somethign about drivers

If you have got a virus some can make system restore unavailable and therefore a boot into sdafe mode will be required if this is the case let me know and ill walk you through how to get rid of it

usually videos work but suddenly there was no sound.not even on the big video place youtube.playlist.com is meant for nothin but music.but cant hear any of it.now video screens aint workin.

I took apart an old Dell today to put in some new parts and whatnot.  After tossing the old CPU on a used mobo, (compatible), adding more ram, and putting in a new PSU, I got the computer started, but no video.  There are no POST beeps.  The mobo is getting power and all of the fans are running along with the dvd drive and harddrive.  I have tried the following:

1.  Bench tested both mobo's.
2.  Tried a different compatible CPU in the new mobo.
3.  Tried 2 cases.
4.  Tried each stick of ram in every single slot.
5.  Tried with nothing but CPU, ram, and PSU.
6.  Tried both PSU's and used both for bench testing the mobo's.
7.  Tried the graphics CARD and then tried onboard.  (The old mobo doesn't have onboard, so I was only able to try the graphics card when testing that mobo).

Did I miss something?  The old computer as a whole seemed to work, but the mobo was acting up and I happened to have a spare 775 in the closet, so I swapped those out.  Now, I cannot get video or POST.  The monitor works on the rig that I moved to create a "test station".  So, everything appears to be working INDIVIDUALLY, but nothing is working together.  If anyone has any IDEAS about what I should try next, please please please let me know.  My hair is turning gray over this.Make sure the RAM you added is compatible....I did.  I also removed the new ram entirely and tried to boot up with the 2 old sticks.  Both of those were fine, but only 512, so we went ahead and got 1gb and 2gb sticks to put in the empty slots. Quote from: mjamie on September 20, 2010, 01:06:21 AM

I did.  I also removed the new ram entirely and tried to boot up with the 2 old sticks.  Both of those were fine, but only 512, so we went ahead and got 1gb and 2gb sticks to put in the empty slots.

I recently updated my OS from VISTA SP2 to Windows 7. In the transition, I made sure all my drivers were updated and compatible with Windows 7 (or so I thought). I commonly use Ventrilo to talk with FRIENDS.  Since my upgrade, though, there is a large amount of static COMING through my mic when I talk both on or off Ventrilo. I use a Dell XPS M1530 laptop. It uses SigmaTel AUDIO drivers. Every program I have is updated. I'm not sure what other information to submit that would help. If anyone could be of ASSISTANCE, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks.Is this the site you used to ensure correct driver upload?
http://www.driversourcedownloads.com/sigmatel.html
truenorthtried that, it didn't work

When EVER i Boot the system , A message come that my hard disk is runnig in over specification MODE , how can i fix it , my hard disk is MAXTOR 120 GB.I've got to ADMIT that I've never heard of that message before. Is that the exact message?Ditto...thats a new ONE on me as well...

I have a Canon 4350 d printer.  How do I print envelopes?Researching on your behalf has produced this reply to your question.
Printing envelopes and card stock

"Before I forget there is a single-page feeder that will let you print on envelopes or on odd-sized card stock or thick paper.  There is a printer settings that lets you adjust for thin paper or thick.   There is a straight through paper feed in that CASE, so no curling or wrinkling occurs.  The TRICK is to line up the paper guides so it prints nice and even.  Stick in an envelope in the slot and the printer pulls it in a BIT and knows that the next thing to print is the envelope.  It knows this automatically."
The refference for this quote is "http://www.epinions.com/review/Canon_ImageCLASS_MF4350d_Laser_All_in_One_2711B001AA_Printer/content_508215791236"
 This FUNCTION should also be explained in your printer manual. If you do not have the manual it can be downloaded from the Canon web site. truenorthI always HATED the printing tray1 questions. Each vendor is different so you'd have to read your user manual.

Specs:
Windows VISTA 64bit
Motherboard: EVGA 122-CK-NF68
Memory (RAM): 6142 MB (3 2GB sticks)
CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Duo E6850  3.00GHz
CPU Speed:  2994.3 MHz
Sound Card: none
Video Card:  NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GTX
Monitors:2x; Generic PnP Monitor | Generic PnP Monitor |


The past month i have been trying to figure out this bug/error/failure. I have eliminated alot of possibilities, and i think i have come to a conclusion, but i would like to get a few other opinions first.

My computer is about 3 years old now, only parts that have been replaced is a new harddrive and 4gb of RAM were added a year ago.

Here is the problem:
My computer freezes randomly, sumtimes it wont happen for awhile, sumtimes it will happen every minute. But, it seems to happen right away everytime after i turn my computer on.

The freezes are weird. When it happens, i can still play/work with whatever program, window or folder i am on/in. But i cannot click on anything else outside of that program/folder.

For example: if it happens when IM on my desktop, i can open folders on the desktop but i cannot do anything in that folder. Also, my taskbar is on autohide; when the bug happens, i cant reveal it and it stays hidden. Another thing, even though i can click on the icons, i cannot move them, i can drag them, but they just go back to their original places. I can HOWEVER cut/paste them into other folders.

A temporary Solution(which has made it sumwhat tolerable the past month)
if i hit Ctrl+Alt+Del and bring up the task manager, the bug disappears. temporarily.

Things i have tried:
Reinstalling OS - I figured it might be a virus, or a software bug. so i reinstalled the OS on a NEW harddrive. And i am still GETTING the problem, even though it was a fresh install on a brand new, never used harddrive.

Cleaning. Blew out all the dust.

I tried running my computer with each stick of 2GB ram by itself, then tried each ram slot. Still got the error.

Checked tempature of my CPU, but its within its parameters. and since the bug happens right when my computer starts, i don't think it could be that.

Monitoring the CPU during heavy uses. i can see both cores are opperating.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

That is the problem. I have searched the net, but was unable to find anyone with a similar problem. I figure i need to replace a part, but i don't know what. any idea?

Yes, I have a an idea. Your power supply is failing
You have  done most of the regular things.
Things to try:
Remove ALL things not needed for very basic use. No printer, no wireless adapter, no USB hubs. Not even a mouse. You can work the computer without a mouse. And remove the floppy,  no power, no data cable. Likewise the CD ROM drive.

 If you have a old low power video card, or built in  video, try that.

If  things get better, it is the power supply
Before figuring out a hardware problem, are you sure that your machine is declared clean? Try to scan 1st your system using your own anti-virus software, MBAM (Malwarebytes), and SAS (SUPERAntiSpyware). Then if it is 100% free from malware, please post it here and wait for CH experts to analyze your problem.geek-9pm,
I don't think its the power supply. These freezes happen randomly when im just browsing the internet, or moving files. basically, not using much power. But when im running a high resource gobbling game, i dont experience any problems, and if it really was a power issue, im sure my computer wouldnt beable to handle a high-end game, when it "crashes" during the SIMPLEST of procedures.

BUT, i did try what u said. unplugged my second monitor, all my external drives, ipod, second keyboard, speakers, and Headset. and, still having the problem.

geek hoodlum,
The computer is running on a fresh install of my OS, on a brand new unused harddrive. it doesnt get any cleaner than that. Quote

geek-9pm,
I don't think its the power supply. These freezes happen randomly when im just browsing the internet, or moving files. basically, not using much power. But when im running a high resource gobbling game, i dont experience any problems, and if it really was a power issue, im sure my computer wouldnt beable to handle a high-end game, when it "crashes" during the simplest of procedures.

I don't think its the power supply. These freezes happen randomly when im just browsing the internet, or moving files. basically, not using much power.

We're not talking about the amount of power being used, but the quality of the DC power being delivered by the PSU. This can be an issue at any level of power draw.

Hello to All,

Not sure where to post this.

I have an HP laptop Pavillion DV5000 series, Mdl dv5215us, 32bit and I am in the process of REPLACING my 60GB HD with a WD320GB drive. Additionally, I am running Windows XP Media Center Edition as the OS with SP3. Just a little confused on the OS though as the system information says it is MS Windows Professional, but when I go to check this info in System Properties it says I am running Windows XP Media Edition?

I made PC recovery discs using the recovery disc creation program HP provided with the computer and made 21 discs. It would not let me use DVD.  Anyway, when I replaced the HD and reloaded the recovery discs it only took 20 of the 21 discs and the loading bar indicator in the program indicated that only 45% of the files were loaded from the discs. I think some of the files were corrupted and just didn’t load, so I received a NTLDR missing message. I have since ordered these discs from HP. My questions are as follows:

1.   Is the Windows XP Media Center Edition correct or is the XP Professional? Was one or the other upgraded?

2.   Since I will be using the HP recovery discs they are sending should I reformat the new HD since I TRIED to load files onto earlier to give me a clean start? I did not receive any disc with the new drive from Western Digital.  The drive is a Scorpio Blue PATA 320GB HD, model WD3200BEVERTL.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Hi there,

I'm not sure about the Windows thing, I'm not familiar enough with the Media Center edition to help you.

As for the discs, the first thing I say to anyone that I'm working on their computer is "Do you have everything that is important backed up?"

I wouldn't count those recovery discs as backups if they didn't work.
I, personally, back everything up manually (music, documents, videos, etc.) by putting them in a temporary folder and burning it to DVDs.  I reinstall all programs from scratch and copy paste all my files over.  However, I keep all my files in one folder which makes backups easier, but if you don't, it's very easy to miss something, especially things stored withing the program files folders.

If you have everything backed up and all important files are safely stored on a disc or some other media, you could probably wipe out any partitions that are on the disc and leave it completely unallocated, or format it to the filesystem used by what the disc will put on.  To be completely clear, leave the old hard disk untouched until your are positive you have everything you want off it.

Again, I'm not 100% sure on this, but aren't recovery discs just ghosting an image on the whole hard disk anyways?  It would wipe out any corrupted files on the hard disc anyways if that is the case (I believe so anyways).Hi Trevor,

Apologies for nothing getting back sooner on this. I did back-up everything I wanted, which I needed to do anyway, before I got started.

The back-up/restore dics I made (22) took along time and didn't work and not having the original systems discs that came with my system, I had to order new ones from HP for $16. I got them the very next day. Wow!

Anyway, I swapped out the HD and reinstalled the OS and other programs sent to me by HP and everything went like clock work. I had to reinstall all of my other software and reinstall my other files I backed up. That took a LONG time to do. I have since installed an EXTERNAL Seagate Free Agent 500G drive and backup the entire HD automatically to avoid having to manually put everything back.

Lessons learned:

1. Never, never, never TOSS out, misplace or lose the systems discs that come with your computer.

2. Spend the money to get an external HD to back-up you complete system and set it automatic so you have a complete copy of all your files, pictures, DVD's, music, photos and programs.

3. Keep all of your software in a safe place... one that you will remember a few years done the road.

PS: I also increased the memory of my laptop too. Now I am good to go for another couple of years for around $200 plus my time.Ricky58, My wife uses XP win media center on one of her computers and we recently investigated what is the relationship between that version and other XP versions. The consensus of opinion that we determined was that Media Center is actually XP Pro with certain enhancements in the audio/video component  of it. In all other regards it is Pro. truenorthThanks truenorth. I kinda thought so. That was the impression I got while doing research.

Thanks for you update.

Ricky58

BACKGROUND INFO
So I have a NEW computer problem.. lol.  The last few weeks I have been dual monitoring from my lcd monitor to my hdtv.  LCD was connected via vga and my tv via hdmi.  To my knowledge, my pc has two graphic cards, both ATI Radeons.  One I believe is on the MOTHER board, ATI RADEON 4200HD series, and the other is in a PCI slot ATI Radeon 5600HD series.  I THINK that when I had it dual monitored the tv was connected via 4200HD and LCD via 5600HD (could be wrong).

WHAT I DID
Everything was working fine (i was mainly just using the HDTV as my only monitor and main monitor).  As you can guess I was gaming on the hdtv, but I was not satisfied with the slight lag I felt.  So I looked at forums to see what I could do and they mostly said 1)  change settings on tv to game mode, 2) turn off vsync on your GRAPHICS card. 

So I did #1, but when I tried to do #2 I could not open my graphics cards “MENU” aka CCC aka Catalyst Command Center.  So I read up on why this might happen and they said I should uninstall drivers and reinstall the drivers, so I did this as well (with most current drivers from the AMD site, version 10.9) and still I could not get into the CCC.  As I was reading more forums, they were saying the 10.8 version mainly has this problem.  So what I did was I downloaded 10.7 (did not install yet) and uninstalled the new 10.9. 

When I went to reboot the cpu after the uninstall of 10.9 there was no display on my HDTV.  I figured I just need to go back to my LCD which was still hooked up to my cpu.  No display there as well.  I tried dvi and vga hook ups from the monitor to both graphic cards but nothing worked to get me a display.  I also tried my girlfriends monitor, which only has vga, to both graphics card and still nothing worked.  So at this point I have NO display.

After about an hour of trying different combinations of cords, monitors, plugs, tv’s ect, I RANDOMLY somehow got a display with my  girlfriends monitor vga to the 5600 card (I think).  I had to hold the vga cord a certain way on attached to the monitor in order for the display to work.  So since I had a display, I quickly installed 10.7.  After installation, it did not prompt me to reboot (which I thought was weird) so I just went to properties and tried to change the resolution to the max 1600x something, to see how it looks.  The screen went blank and the display never REAPPEARED.

Now I basically have NO DISPLAY again.  After another hour of playing with cords, monitors, etc, I decided to just go to bed and try not to throw the computer and monitors across the room at some of my girlfriends cats. 

Any suggestions? I have been reading forums, some say it might be hardware, but in my case everything is new (within 5 months old).  Some talk about a reset on my motherboard, but I don’t know how to do it without a display.  Wrong driver...
Revert bact to the original and/or re-install the native driver from the CD that shipped witht the card...How do i revert back to the old driver when i can't see anything on any monitor?  I would love to do a system restore, change drivers, even open to reformatting, but how do i do any of these things when there is absolutely no display, therefore leaving me totally blindSafemode...

Well over the summer i bought a new graphics card to play global agenda. it worked very well until recently. My computer constantly crashed error message said ndis.sys i coudlnt find a solution so i disabled the graphics card and my crashing stopped but i cant play games. i have a gigabye g41m-es4m motherboard and a gforce 9800 gt. the thing is the graphics card worked for a while but now causes constant crashing. Help please!!!!It probably has a 1 year warranty.Well it ISNT quite been a year. but any advice on what to do would be awesome! im a gamer going into withdraw ndis.sys file has nothing to do with nVidia .
It's a wrapper driver, piece of software, which allows communication between Windows and various device drivers (including video driver).

Let's get some more info...

Download BlueScreenView (in Zip file)
No installation required.
Unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe file to run the program.
When scanning is done, go Edit>Select All.
Go File>Save Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt.
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all content, and paste it into your next reply. Quote from: Broni on September 22, 2010, 08:07:55 PM

ndis.sys file has nothing to do with nVidia .
It's a wrapper driver, piece of software, which allows communication between Windows and various device drivers (including video driver).

I have an NZXT M59 mid-tower case and an MSI 870A-G54 AM3 AMD 870 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard. I put the IO shield on the case, alligned the mobo with it, but none of the holes in the case are alligning with those in the mobo. Can ANYONE help?You might need to MOVE your standoffs around.I'm confused about those, what are they exactly? Are they the little screws that came with the case? I don't see how I could move them around if the holes in the case don't match up with the mobo. Quote from: ubersoldier87 on September 22, 2010, 08:43:11 AM

Are they the little screws that came with the case?

Aha, yes I have those. And when I saw them I attached them and managed to get 6 to match with the mobo, is that adequate?

I put the IO shield on the case, alligned the mobo with it

I keep getting this error every time I start up this laptop. The computer before was having issues with the OS where it wouldn't start etc so what I did was format the drive. There is NO OS installed on the computer so it's a clean drive, however I'm getting this error.

Now, problem is, I can't even boot a disc from the CD/DVD Drive in the laptop. I've reseated the drive to see if it was a simple connection error but it still will not boot my Windows 7 DVD from it. I can hear it spin but it will still not start for some reason. I have the CDROM drive as the first to be booted and I even selected the CDROM to boot directly, but alas, nothing.

My QUESTION is, do you think the drive itself is dead and can the HDD still be good? I don't want to order a part from EBay or somewhere to only COME out with the same issue over and over again. Quote

There is NO OS installed on the computer so it's a clean drive, however I'm getting this error.

It boots on my Desktop

It looks like the drive is giving you problems...
Keep us posted...

I ordered a M4A79T Deluxe motherboard as seen here http://usa.asus.com/product.aspx?P_ID=lhJiLTN5huPfCVkW&content=specifications

And I'm also going to be buying the Phenom II x4 BLACK edition Processor which, from what I heard, isn't compatible with some of the earlier versions of this mobo. Is there any way I can check what BIOS version this board has before I open it up? If not, is upgrading this mobo's BIOS difficult enough to just send it back for a refund?

I seriously need help guys.They are both am3 so I don't know why it wouldn'tWhy are you fretting over the BIOS if you haven't even settled on a board ? ?
The BIOS will not need to be messed with...no matter what board you decide on..
Quote from: patio on September 23, 2010, 08:39:28 PM

Why are you fretting over the BIOS if you haven't even settled on a board ? ?
The BIOS will not need to be messed with...no matter what board you decide on..

The board is compatible with the phenomIIx4, however, it is not compatible with the Black edition 120w version

Good morning,

I am trying to plug my Shap Aquos but am encountering a little problem. I can get the picture on the TV without a problem using an HDMI cable. I have NOT YET plugged in the audio cable. However, there is a very weird short sound (sounds like: tsssssh) coming out of the TV speakers. I noticed that it comes out more frequently when I'm watching videos (once every 5 or 6 seconds) than when the desktop is iddle (once every 20 seconds or so), ALTHOUGH it's not in regular intervals.

Any ideas?

Thanks! Do you realize that HDMI carries sound and that you don't require a SEPARATE audio cable. Quote from: Quantos on November 06, 2010, 10:35:32 AM

Do you realize that HDMI carries sound and that you don't require a separate audio cable.

Hi,

My LCD screen has two sections on the right (corresponding to the wire sections that go into the top of the LCD panel) that are either black or scrambled.  I have looked at the wiring and it appears to be fine.  It isn't PINCHED and no bare wires are showing.  I took it apart a few TIMES prior to this to replace the wireless card.  I don't know of any drops before this happened, but a small amount (a few small drops) of rain did reach the bottom of the screen.  I'm guessing this isn't repairable so what I really want to know is;  how can I be sure it is the LCD panel and not any wiring/ports?  Does a replacement LCD have to a specific replacement LCD for this laptop, or can it be simply the same SIZE, type, etc...?  Where do I find the model number or some WAY of identifying the screen?

Thanks for any help.

Specs-
 
OS Name   Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition
Version   5.1.2600 Service Pack 3 Build 2600
OS Manufacturer   Microsoft Corporation
System Manufacturer   alienware
System Model   Aurora m9700
System Type   X86-based PC
Processor   x86 Family 15 Model 36 Stepping 2 Authentic AMD Turion 64 Mobile Technology ML-34 ~1809 Mhz
Directx   9.0 or better
BIOS Version/Date   American Megatrend

GeForce GO 7900 GS
5.71.22.26.21
IRQ: 17
Bus: PCI Express x8
Memory: 512 MB
ForceWare Version: 84.74
NVIDIA Integrated TV Encoder

LCD:  17" 1920x1200You could try using a second lcd to see how that works.  You also might want to try setting it at a lower resolution to see if that AFFECTS it.Quantos,

I tried attaching a second LCD.  It is clean and no sign of problems.  I changed the resolutions around and no effect on the bad sections.  I take it this means the problem is most likely with the LCD panel itself?

ThanksI think you should contact Dell or Alienware for a replacement screen, is it still under warranty?Quantos:  I got this second hand, so it is not under warranty.  It is an original Alienware, so it's a few years old.  I just wanted to make sure this was the LCD, and I should be able to get one for $95-$150.  Thanks for the help.

No problem man, keep us informed, and let us know if you need more assistance.  This is more than likely going to need some more work done.