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Hey, I've just bought new sound card, Creative Sound BLASTER 5.1 VX...

I've INSTALLED drivers and software from CD which one was included to my Sound Card box...

But there is no sound and I've 2 problems...



Why the *censored* there is a "!" mark in a yellow circle What does it mean



And it's when I'm trying to launch Device manager which came with Creative CD drivers installation...


Please help, otherwise I'm taking my pc to fix center on MONDAY...Remove and reseat it with all power removed....

It may be a dead card.What do you mean by SAYING dead card ? what card ? New , that I bought 4 hours ago? :OMeans nothing...i SEE this with PC components all the time.So should I try turning off my PC and then power off all computer components and itself ?

EDIT: Still same problem..If reseating the card and reinstalling the drivers don't help then you should pay attention to what Patio suggested and exchange the card.

OK! I had to replace my 600W pwr sply, and I'm REALLY regretting that I didn't take the time to simply replace each #'ed plug on the old with the corresponding #'ed plugs on the new. In my defense (kinda), I had originally bought a 400W unit, and when I went to return it I thought it be smart to take the old one to make sure I got the right one.

ANYHOO! The main MOBO connector is pretty obvious, as is the SATA power plugs. After that, I'm quite mystified. I've looked ALL over the web for specific mapping instructions on which P# plug goes with which socket. All I get is the type of plugs that goes with whatever. That's also obvious.

My issue is pretty basic. NOTHING but the fans come on, which scares me thinking my MOBO is shot.

Here's what I've tried...to the BEST of my memory.

1.) I've tried using the P7, P8 (that are also tied to the floppy plug) for the DVD drives, as well as whatever else they might drive. They are currently connected to the DVD drives, which seems the most logical.

2.) The P4, P5, P6 I've also tried on the DVD drives, but now they're connected to the other avail. plugs. If it means anything the P6 is attached to a connector that says Input 12V.

3.) I can't help but notice the socket on the board that's the 2X2 12V PROC Core Voltage connector, and I've tried connecting both existing plugs into it with no success.

4.) I've got the black 6-pin P10 PCI-Express X16 connector, but I really don't see anywhere logical for that either.

PLEEEZZZ HELP ME!!

I'm installing a new 500 gb hard drive in a Winxp pc and the BIOS recognizes the full 500GB but after installing the os (winxp) only 137 gb is listed in "My Computer".  Please advise on how to access the remaining 363gb of storage.  I have a Gigabyte GA-945GZM-S2 motherboard and a WD 500gb hard drive.Check first on your BIOS settings/features if LBA Mode is present... Enable it or turn it on. Save & Exit. Install service pack 3.

If that doesn't help look here:
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/303013I have enabled the mode to LBA, saved, exited, and rebooted and still show only 127GB in my computer.  Yes, I said 127GB not the 137GB that I stated at first.  I'm not sure if that makes any DIFFERENCE or not.  I am already running sp3 on winxp pro.  The ATAPI version is 5.1.2600.5512 and as far as the ms link which I read through I am a bit worried about changing code.How does the drive show in Disk Management ? ?
It may have done this because of choices you made in the setup process...After clicking on the HD in CMOS this is what's listed:

IDE HDD Auto-Detection      [Press Enter]

IDE Channel 0 Master      [Auto]

Access Mode         [LBA]

Capacity                         500 GB

Cylinder                        16643

Head            255

Precomp            0

Landing Zone         65534

Sector            63

Is this the information you are asking about?No, that is bios, Patio is referring to Disk Management in windows.

right click My Computer.  left click Manage.
double click Storage.  double click Disk Management.

Need the info it shows for your drive.
Disk 0 - Basic - 465.76 GB - online

Hard Drice (C:)  127.99 GB NTFS  Healthy (system)

337.77 GB  UnallocatedHere's a Pic on how to do this in XP...Thank you so much for all your help.  You truly made my life easier.  I get so discussted when trying to find answers to problems among all the retailers and not to mention Microsoft as well.  Thanks again.Your'E more than Welcome....STOP by anytime...

Hi Guys, Im not sure if this is a Hardware or Software problem.
Recently my C drive is not loading up windows, even when i TRY to load safe mode i keeps switching tiself off, so I believe there is a corrupt file on this drive. I have bought a new internal hdd and was hoping there was someway to copy all the data from the old hdd to the new.
Thanks for your help and advice.What is new or different since the last time everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)? What OS are you running? Tell us EXACTLY what happens when you try to boot.Hi thanks for your reply. Basically the only thing I can possibly relate it too would be, it was shortly after we had a power cut in the area ( not that that has caused this type of thing in the past ). When i switched it back on it would load fine for a few hours then started to randomly switch itself off. This happened a few times over the next few weeks at different periods (nothing notable like pc was too hot or anything that I could find a pattern with).  I didnt use it for a few weeks as I was away, when I came to try it again it is how it is now.
It starts up and on the screen it shows the black screen with the white writting showing info like, prosessor type and graphinc card etc... as you would normaly find. Then it takes you straight to the safe mode screen, saying

' windows did not start succesfully. A recent software or hardware change may have caused this'

you get 5 OPTIONS as below:

Safe Mode
Safe Mode with networking
Safe Mode with command prompt

Last known Good Configuration

Start Windows Normally

then there is a countdown of 30 seconds, then it try to start window normally and GOES back to the black screen with the white writting on it at the begining. If you leave it it does this process over and over again.

Sorry for the lamants terminology and poor spelling but I hope you get the gist of what im saying.

Thanks AgainWhat happens if you choose "Last Known Good" or "Safe Mode"?It just keeps looping over and over back to the black and white screen....then to the last page with all the options with the timer, once the timer has gone to zero it trys to reload itself and back to square one again...Candidly, the countdown time confuses me. Are you running XP? If so, try a repair install (boot to the XP CD and choose the SECOND repair option). After the repair you'll have to go to Windows Update and download and install all updates.yes I am running XP. The only problem is a friend of mine built the PC a few years back so I will have to get hold of a Windows operating cd and try your suggestion. If that fails, do you think that it is possible to copy / ghost the infected HD and copy it file for file to a new internal HDD? My main worry is there are loads of photos on there and i have commited the cardinal sin of not backing up...I have since learned (the hard way) what a mistake that is.Slave Drive Tutorial...

For retrieving your important data...Good teamwork patio That looks like an excellent step by step guide. I havnt got the time now but will definatly try this out either tomorrow or Sunday and report back how I got on.

Guys thank you so much, and I really appreciate the help and advice. Its good to know there are people out there how are willing to help people like me and not charge exstortionate fees.

Cheers You're welcome. And you haven't gotten the bill yet - careful haha fair playWe'll give you the First time visitors Discount... Quote from: patio on November 26, 2010, 03:58:00 PM

We'll give you the First time visitors Discount...

Hi everyone,

I recently got a virus on my laptop (it called itself cycbot.b), and was told basically to get a new hard drive as the entire system was effectively compromised even if I were to run anti-virus software on it.

Anyway, I've got myself a new hard drive, thrown the old ONE out, and the problem is simple- when I turn on the laptop, it just reverts to a completely black screen, with the exception of a small flashing line in the top left hand corner. I've put the windows XP disk in the CD-ROM drive and it seems from searching the internet that it should just load the operating system automatically. But it doesn't.

From doing a bit more digging, I've gathered I need to press F2 when the system is loading to access the BIOS. I can do this but really have no idea what needs changing (I presume it's something under the 'boot' heading, but there's 8 different options under that heading and I've no idea which one to pick- or even if this is the problem to begin with. If it helps, the 8 different options to boot are (in this order):

1) IDE0: WDC WD3200BEKT-60KA9TO-(S1
2) IDE1:
3) IDE2: Optiarc DVD RW AD-7580S-(S
4) USB FDD:
5) Network boot: MBA v11.4.1 Slot 0600
6) USB HDD:
7) USB KEY:
USB CD/DVD ROM:

Under the heading 'information' in the BIOS, I get this information:

CPU Type: AMD Turion (tm) X2 Dual-Core Mobile RM-72
CPU Speed: 2100 MHz
HDD Model Name: WDC WD3200BEKT-60KA9T0 -(PM)
HDD Serial Number: WD-WX61A9060153
HDD Model name: None
HDD Serial Number:
ATAPI Model Name: Optiarc DVD RW AD-7580S -(SM)

System BIOS Version: V1.01
VGA BIOS Version: V010.094.001.004.030789

Serial Number: LXB580X0019221AE551601
Asset Tag Number:
Product Name: EasyNote LJ61
Manufacturer Name: Packard Bell
UUID: FD6E0479A9A7E547E46400235A967115

I've literally no idea why it won't boot and install the operating system. I can't get on windows or anything LIKE that- the only stuff I can access is in the BIOS.

Any ideas folks? Or is this machine FUBAR and it's time to start anew?Okay, let's start at the beginning. Whoever told you to get a new hd is an idiot. Next - in the bios you need to change to boot order so the cd drive is at the top of the list. Save the change, insert the OS disk in the drive, reboot.

Last - this is a support forum. Everyone who posts here has a problem. In the future, please give your post a subject that related to your question or problem. Quote from: Allan on December 01, 2010, 09:05:34 AM

Okay, let's start at the beginning. Whoever told you to get a new hd is an idiot. Next - in the bios you need to change to boot order so the cd drive is at the top of the list. Save the change, insert the OS disk in the drive, reboot.

Last - this is a support forum. Everyone who posts here has a problem. In the future, please give your post a subject that related to your question or problem.

...
1.  I recently got a virus on my laptop (it called itself cycbot.b), and was told basically to get a new hard drive as the entire system was effectively compromised even if I were to run anti-virus software on it.
2.  Anyway, I've got myself a new hard drive, thrown the old one out, Any ideas folks? Or is this machine FUBAR and it's time to start anew?

I'm trying to help  my brother-in-law here.   He has an Epson 1250 Photo scanner that has been working well  for years.  Suddenly it STOPS.  Tried re-installing the program and drivers and everytime we try to use it, we get the message  ""this  model not supported by Twain 5". .. So we un-installed the drivers and tried again via Epson Instructions,  now we get the  message "Please install the supported Twain driver". .  Can any body tell me what is going on an how to work the PROBLEM??  Thanks for looking guys,  JIMHave you recently (coincident to  this issue arising) changed the computer and/or the operating system that has been associated with this printer? truenorth Quote from: truenorth on November 25, 2010, 02:41:10 PM

Have you recently (coincident to  this issue arising) changed the computer and/or the operating system that has been associated with this printer? truenorth

he took it to a local computer shop (where it was built) and they told him that Epson  software was no good

He has an Epson 1250 Photo scanner that has been working well  for years.  Suddenly it stops.

I agree. I am a Printer Tech for the next 4 mo's untill our pc deployment z ready to roll and that is printer came out of the caves.

No just stating my opinion. You might read a little closer. I have and  am a printer tech, network and PC tech and I workfor high profile and large fortune 500 company's. Leave my post alone and mind your own. Been doing this to long for a rookie to question me.

Surprise surprise! It is old! Scanners contain mechanical moving parts and they wear out. Tell him to pony up for a new one.

No just stating my opinion. You might read a little closer. I have and  am a printer tech, network and PC tech and I workfor high profile and large fortune 500 company's. Leave my post alone and mind your own. Been doing this to long for a rookie to question me.

Gateway DX4640 powers on but outputs NOTHING on screen either with internet cable or by itself. What is likely the problem and is it worth fixing or is it time to replace ?

thanksTry another monitor...

Post more details...my computer monitor briefly says " no input" and then powers off. The monitor is connected via an hdmi cable . When I ran the hdmi to an lcd hdtv sitting nearby I get absolutely nothng on that screen either . The computer worked fine when I shut it down the NIGHT before. Hope this helps.

Thanks for any help givenCan you try another monitor ? ?

And borrow another HDMI cable as well just to test...The first thing I tried was a brand new hdmi cable to my monitor. Same thing, "no signal" then it powers off. Then I ran the new hdmi cable to the input on a panasonic 37" lcd. nothing.

If my monitor was bad, wouldn't I have been able to get a signal on the lcd Panny ?

Thanks alot for your response.The fact that it powers off WOULD point toward a bad power supplyAre you saying the computer may power on but have a power failure somewhere else that is preventing it from processing ?

If the monitor was the only problem, wouldn't I be able to get a signal by bypassing it and using the lcd tv as the monitor ?

In other words, Is this power supply problem internal to the computer tower and if so is it an expensive repair ?Your second post says the computer powers on briefly and then powers off - if that is true then it may be a bad power supply unit. It is neither expensive nor difficult to replace.The computer itself powers up and stays running the entire time (fan runs, led power light on etc.)

When I turn the MONITOR on, it briefly flashes the Gateway logo in the center, then The RGB box that says "no signal" and then the MONITOR powers itself off.  The COMPUTER stays on the whole time.

That is why I thought if the monitor was bad that running the signal to a different display (lcd tv) that it would work, but it doesn't

Is there possibly something enternally wrong inside the computer tower that would prevent it from functioning even though it stays on the entire time ?



I see, sorry - I misunderstood. If the cable is good and if you believe the display is good, I guess it COULD be the video card. But to be honest, the fact that the display powers down on its own would seem to indicate the display is bad. But this is a difficult one to diagnose and TROUBLESHOOT from a distance. Do you know for sure the lcd tv works as a display (did you ever use it before)?If your display adapter is an add-on card you should open the computer and reseat the card.
Just make sure that the computer is turned off and ground yourself to the computer case before doing this.

Have a toshiba satellite pro m-10
 the mouse goes crazzy and goes anywhere that it wants to.
i need to LEARN how to uninstall the mouse and where to go into the system to do that as well as how to reinstall the mouse to get it to work right.How about some more information? Has the mouse always ACTED this way or did it just start? If it just STARTED, what is new or different since the last time everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?  Does this happen in safe mode or only in regular mode? Have you tried a clean boot? What type of mouse is it and what driver are you using.

Please ANSWER ALL of the above.If your touch pad is active and you BRUSH it while typing that could cause it, what happens if you disable the touch pad?

I hae a Canon MP470 multifunction printer.  there is in the control panel, add hardware, under imaging, a Xerox Proscanner work station.  I have never owned a Xerox product.  I cannot get rid it of nor can anyone else so far.  It kicks out my Canon after a few days and I have to reinstall the Canon driver to get it to work again.  Appears the Commies INSTALL something in the printers they make for us so as to be able to access our computers at times.  I received the below from a retired Comunications Security Tech who specialized in preventing unauthorized entry into Govt. communications.  He states Canon and HP are big sources of this tap.  My Canon was new two years ago this month.

Anyone have any thoughts on this matter?   

Quote

I searched US-CERT (the Homeland Security Website) and discovered in 2008 there were problems with multiple
Canon Printers.  I'm not sure how old yours is.  Here is the scoop on the 2008 Canon problem:
 
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++US-CERT+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Canon -- imagePRESS
Canon -- i-SENSYS
Canon -- imageRUNNER
The FTP print feature in multiple Canon printers, including imageRUNNER and imagePRESS,
allow remote attackers to use the server as an inadvertent proxy via a modified PORT command, aka FTP bounce.
unknown
2008-02-28

6.4 CVE-2008-0303
OTHER-REF
OTHER-REF
CERT-VN
 
The basic problem with Multi-function printers.  Especially those made in China or VIETNAM is they are an ideal
place to install remote internet routines.  The multifunction printer has a send/receive function that allows it to contact the
Internet independantly of the PC itself. (When you install the printer software your Internet Security Program makes
it either Low Restricted or "TRUSTED")  A "trusted" application or device is an easy end-around for your installed security system
and firewall.  We have to remember the CHINESE and Vietnamese are good friends. (still)  They would like nothing better than to sock it to the U.S. Cyberwise.  The sad part of this is the Canon and HP people are participants by default.
Wha...?Now I understand.
Over half of my equipment is HP/Compaq or Cannon.

I keep getting these strangle e-mails from China.

Hey guys,

I have a Satellite A200 Toshiba laptop running Windows Vista, and a couple of days after I tried to update the graphics card (I'm not great with computers), the screen started turning black every 10 minutes or so. Programs are still running normally, only the display is affected. If I close the laptop the display comes back on if I open it 15 min later, but then turns black again shortly after. ALSO, twice it's crashed with a memory parity error.

I had a computer technician look at it and he updated the graphics driver, but it's still crashing. He said the display problems are a result of damage to the motherboard from the overheating (there's something wrong with the fan; the laptop always crashes when running games/virus scans), and that it's not related to my attempt at updating the graphics driver. He said if the display continues to have problems, which it has, my only solution is to buy a new laptop.

Does that sound right? It's less than two years old!    I know correlation =/= causation, but it seems highly coincidental that all the problems started happening after I attempted to update the graphics card.Can you run system restore and restore it to a point before the driver was updated?

Why did you update your display adapter?Thanks for the response,

For some reason it's gotten worse now (haven't tried system restore yet - i've been unable to) - first it went black two minutes after I entered my password, and now it won't even make it to the intial Vista password entry screen when I turn it on (yet I can hear that it's loaded).

Any advice? Even if it's broken beyond repair, I still need to take all my files off somehow.

Quote

Why did you update your display adapter?

For some reason it's gotten worse now (haven't tried system restore yet - i've been unable to) - first it went black two minutes after I entered my password, and now it won't even make it to the intial Vista password entry screen when I turn it on (yet I can hear that it's loaded).

Update - there was another memory parity error, and it crashed... screen turns black shortly after I entered my password...

I'd like to know how the graphics chip wa upgraded as most of them are soldered in on laptops...
More info,,,

Update - spoke too soon... display went to black again. 
At least I know how to get my stuff off now...
Second update - it randomly came on again. 

Laptop graphics usually use shared memory; could be one of the memory modules is defective.  Get MemTest, create a CD, boot from the CD & test.  http://www.memtest.org/

Ok so i have a dell dimention 1100 and when i turn it on i get this screen after the dell splash screen.

Diskette drive seek failure
primary drive 1 not found
secondary drive 1 not found
strike f1 to continue, f2 for setup utility

I thought it was my hard drive so i bought a new one hooked it up and i get the same error, but it says my memmory has changed.
i dont know what to do someone pls help!!!!Is the replaced HD(with OS) still working? You may need to change your booting sequence under BIOS setup. press default settings and check HD(old) priority as first. If cable jumpers is supported by motherboard on jumper settings, used(cap)it. Make sure all cable connectors are working and properly seated. You may also try disabling diskette drive to check for error messages. If you need to replaced an old HD, make sure you to BOOT to CD drive first and CD installers are available.

Manual -->  http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dim1100/EN/OM/om_en.pdfFrom the information you have provided the most obvious conclusion is that SOMETHING is wrong with the motherboard. We hope that's not the CASE. Other things are floppy drive itself, the CD-ROM drive and a power supply. And possibly, even your graphics card, if his computer as a SEPARATE graphics card.
When this sort of thing happens , here are  procedures technician will use on the most personal computers. First eliminate floppy drive and the CD-ROM drive by removing them completely from the system, removing both the power and data cables. Under those conditions BIOS now  should recognize the hard right even if you don't have jumpers set  properly. Still, make sure the jumpers are set correctly.
The other thing to check is the cable going from the hard drive to the motherboard. The cables normally don't go bad by themselves. Unless you've been pulling on the lately and you broke something.
Sorry to be a bearer of bad news, but if you can't get it to find the hard disk drive, you're in a tight spot.
Oh, check the CMOS BATTERY. Got right time and date? default settings?

What is drive 1 in bios? "Diskette" would indicate your floppy drive, not your hard drive.

When I turn on my computer, the BOOT screen will not show. Windows just AUTO starts and THEN the monitor turns on. How can I get my monitor to turn on at the boot screen? I was TRYING to boot linux but I can't if the boot screen doesn't show..... Any help?Or if someone could step me through what to PRESS in order to boot linux off a usb. When I press Cltrl+F1, my computer will just sit there, (I KNOW it's at the boot screen!!) but the monitor won't turn on. GRR.More info on what exactly you are trying to do here would be helpful as you've mentioned both Windows and Linux...

Could be a clusterfudge for all we know,,,

COMPUTER INFO:
I have a HP Pavilion dv5 LAP top with Windows Vista.

PROBLEM:
I've been having this problem for about a week. The computer is running but the screen randomly turns black for 5-15 minutes and then when it goes away the computer is still operating in the same task it was before the screen went black. Also when starting the computer it fails to start and I have to perform a start up repair. Sometimes I have to turn the computer on and off four or five times before the start up repair will show up, and then it will let me fix the start up problem. I really need my computer so getting this fixed as soon as possible is a MUST!

WHAT I'VE TRIED SO FAR:
I've updated my drivers using a program called "hardware helper", which is specifically for Windows operating systems. I went to the ATI website and downloaded the correct driver for my computer and this didn't help. I've also tried to clean the registry using a program called "registry mechanic".


I don't really have the MONEY to bring my computer in the get it fixed so I'm hoping I can get some good advice about what might be CAUSING the problem. I'm also not super technical with computers so if you could reply in the simplest terms possible I would appreciate it.1) Using utilities like Hardware Helper or Registry Cleaners will CAUSE problems, not cure them.
2) What is new or different since the LAST time EVERYTHING worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?

I have a HP laptop which is about 2 years old. Works fine except when in a certain open position, it goes dark !

I am assuming that there is an intermit/break in the RIBBON cable between the screen and main lap COMPUTER...?

WOULD someone correct me if I'm wrong..? I'm a communications Tech myself and would like to repair it myself since I

think it is out of warranty. Any suggestion on where to get the repair parts I need...? Would it be better to send it out for repair...?

 Please help !Are your very good at precision soldering?
Do you have the tools?
First you may WANT to get the HP service MANUAL, if you can.

Or by an broken laptop liken yours and practice on it.
No, not a joke. I will assume you are an experienced tech and are up to the challenge.
On eBay you can get broken HP Pavillion Laptops for under $100. Some may have working screens. You can tear into one and find how the LCD is wired to the ma inboard.
Of course, if you time is money, you are going to lose a lot of overtime you could have had at your job.I had a similar issue with a Dell laptop and found a dead same make/model on ebay with a good display and swapped displays. Cost to me was just $40 and it was a damaged ribbon cable in the hinge area on the left side when facing the laptop screen. Sending it out for repair will likely cost more than the laptop is worth $200+ to get repaired with new oem parts and labor.

Alright im thinking of upgrading my motherboard for the SOLE reason to gain an extra ram SLOT as my current one has a broken one.

My Current Mobo is the MSI P965 Platinum mobo.
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/407

I need it to fit the criteria of my current loadout of

Cpu: Intel Core 2 QUAD Q9550
Ram: 4 Sticks PC2-6400 DDR2 800
GPU: Being able to fit in the case.

What is a good upgrade that isnt too expensive and can fit those criteria but isnt downgrading?My current mobo data from new egg
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130055&cm_re=MSI_P965-_-13-130-055-_-ProductUse the NewEgg guided search.
CPU Type=Socket 775
There's 6 pages, you choose.  Look for Ram=DDR2-800 compatible.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007627%20600007879&IsNodeId=1&name=LGA%20775I've chosen http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157164

I know the Ram is DDR3 but im going to plan on puchasing that kind of RAM.

Does anyone know of any good deals of RAM meant for Gaming? Quote from: Bunbotman on December 06, 2010, 02:26:32 PM

...I know the Ram is DDR3 but im going to plan on puchasing that kind of RAM...

ok so ive had 2 of these MOTHER boards so far that were bad now, on to  my 3rd (came bad i didnt break them) and there is a green light right next to where the power supply connects to the MOTHERBOARD 24 pin connector. this green light has never been on on my last 2 motherboards. also there is a high pitch BUZZING type sound coming from the motherboard.
i only have one card on this motherboard a 250gts video card and Ive checked and it is pushed in all the way. im at a loss here any ADVICE (besides get a new mother board LOL)
thanks for reading hope to hear some good news =)

Greetings. I just replaced the HD of a Dell Studio 1537 laptop. REINSTALLATION of Vista went well WITHOUT any problems. Now, How do i retrieve data (Photos, MUSIC and other Docs) from the old HD? I have a USB to IDE cable that does fit this little HD. Any ideas as how this can be done? Thanking you in advance, Hennessy.http://www.dtidata.com/resourcecenter/2007/04/23/how-to-slave-hard-drive/

Hi Guys,

Some of you might know ONE of my SATA HDD's died. Unfortunatley, it was the one with the data.
Anywho, I was wondering what is the best solution regarding data storage and  backup. I was thinking of a NAS or a RAID.
Don't know much about RAID and have worked with a few NAS's in the past. The RAID option sounds like a good project to take on, as I have a few spare machine COLLECTING dust and it would be good to build a storgae machine. Or should I go down the NAS path and just buy a QNAP or somehting like that.

Thoughts?

CHEERS,
IvanRAID-1 is good for a machine that must be up and running 24/7.  It's not intended for data backup.  NAS is an acceptable backup solution.  It depends on how much data you have & how accessible you want it to be from more than one computer or location.  I use multiple backup media for data, i.e. internal &external hard drive, internal & external card reader with SDHC card.  Also image BACKUPS of the entire boot partition to external USB drives.I personally think having a regular backup regimen imaging your HDD's to a seperate partition and then burning them say once a Month for solid backups would be a much more cost-effective solution... Quote

... should I go down the NAS

please know me the 300gb harddisk partition.

and also know me the maximum drive can be create in 300gb harddisk.

A couple of days ago, my laptop started powering off suddenly. One SECOND it's on, and the next, no hard drive activity, no screen, no nothing. This happens in an instant and without warning (no BLUE screen). Starting yesterday, the problem got worse. After the POWER cut out, I would have trouble starting the computer up again. Sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn't. When it did work, I sometimes got as far as the WINDOWS login screen. When I hit a key to begin typing my password (or swiped my finger on the fingerprint scanner), the power cut out. Today, it seems to have gotten even worse. Sometimes the startup process doesn't even get as far as the Windows login. A couple of TIMES today, I pushed Power, got the the Windows Startup Error screen, selected to resume Windows as normal, and bam! Power's off.

Now, this gets even more mysterious. Sometimes I push the power button (after one of these instances), and nothing happens. Sometimes I push the power button, and the power light comes on, and then the fan, but no hard drive activity. Dead. Sometimes the computer won't start up at all unless I remove the battery, pull the plug, wait a few seconds, and then try again.

Even stranger... I have the computer on right now. It's been on for 5 hours, and it's working fine. I'm afraid to turn it off or put it to sleep, because I know it might not start up again.

If you are thinking overheating is the source of the problem, as of right now, after being on for 5 hours, each of my two processors is running at 53 deg. C and 45 deg. C, which I don't think is very hot.

I've been using computers for 25 years, and I've never seen anything like this. Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Specs:
Sony Vaio VGN-Z90US CTO: Core 2 Duo P9600 (2.8 GHz), 4 GB DDR2, 200 GB 7200 RPM HDD, 256 MB nVidia 9300M GS GPU, 13.1" 1600x900, Windows 7 Ultimate Quote

I've been using computers for 25 years, and I've never seen anything like this. Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

So I just ASSEMBLED a new computer for a friend when I plug everything in it wont turn on (NO fans, lights, beeps).  The motherboard comes with a POWER LED that lights up when the board detects power.  The light is working fine and is on but the computer wont turn on.

Now after conducting several TEST I'm positive its the motherboard (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131366).  I'm looking for the community's advice on this issue before I request for a Manufacturer's Warranty.

The Following TROUBLESHOOTING steps were completed:

-Took Apart all physical components (CPU, VIDEOCARD, HDD, ETC) and reassembled.
-Swapped the PWR Switch cables with the Reset Cables to see if the Reset button would turn it on
-Removed all components except CPU
-Tried different working power switch cables
-Tested the PSU on a different system and worked fine
-Tested a different Working PSU and same results
-Removed all components including CPU
-Removed entire MOBO and placed on cardboard (I was thinking the case was grounding it somewhere) still no luck

I cant think of any other way to test it.  I would really like to try everything before I have to do a Warranty.

If you guys have any suggestions it would be appreciated




I also CHECKED all the JUMPER setting in the manualTry to boot the system off of minimal required hardware. If the motherboard has integrated video, remove the video card and attach directly to integrated. Remove all Ram except for a single stick in Bank 0, do not have any drives attached or powered. Just make the system at a minimal boot state for your motherboard to function as just the motherboard, power supply, and single stick of Ram.

Now if the system boots you know the problem is which another device influencing the boot sequence causing failure. If still no boot, try swapping Ram stick with another stick. ( Two sticks being Bad is extremely Rare ). If still no boot, make sure your power supply is rated the correct wattage to support your CPUs and Integrated GPU's needs and id swap power supplies if you have another one handy. If still not working your likely looking at a bad motherboard. Be sure all jumpers are set to default mfr specs as usually shown in booklet that came with motherboard.

I also have seen this happen where a CPU is mismatched with motherboard such as a lower end motherboard that only supports Pentium 4 and Dual-Core Socket 775 getting a Socket 775 Quad-Core in which the motherboard has no support for a Quad-Core ect. Hope this info helps you diagnose and come to a conclusion on your hardware issue.

Hi, I was browsing the internet looking for some advice and NOTICED this forum. Maybe someone could help me.

I bought my father an emachines E520 laptop nearly 2 years ago now. It runs on vista home basic with service pack 2.

It started shutting itself down suddenly, I checked the tempreture and it was running at 79 degrees C. So I cleaned all the dust out of the fan and surrounding area, which turned out to be a nightmare of a job as there was no access to the fan from underneath and I had to go under the motherboard......a place I don't like to be if I can help it!

Anyway I removed a substantial amount of dust and fluff, turned the laptop back on and it turned it'self off after about 10 minutes.

Before I played with it, it was only turning off now and again after a few hours of use, now it is turning off after a few minutes of use.

Aaaarrgh what have I done?

Can anyone help me please?

Many Thanks If you have a fan that is on its way out it could be shutting itself down. The cooling fans in computers these days have TACH's in them that send pulses and by pulse frequency you know the speed of the fan in RPM's, if the motherboard senses a loss of this signal it will shut itself down to protect itself.

The other possibility you are facing is where the thermal COMPOUND between the CPU and the heatsink is DRIED up and no longer a good heat conductor to sink the heat away from the CPU and so the motherboard senses the CPU temp going into the critical and shutting itself down.

For this type of problem there is no easy fix. You are most likely facing replacing a fan that isnt functioning properly or removing the heatsink, removing the old heatsink compound with q-tips, and then applying new thermal compound such as arctic silver and reattaching the heatsink to create a better thermal bond.

Worst case scenario of an overheated system is microfractures in the traces internally to the CPU where the traces are connected until you reach a specific temperature at which the traces microfracture pulls away creating a gap in which electrons can not flow, and CAUSING usually a blue screen or a shutdown condition.

Wish you the best of luck diagnosing..if you have any further questions feel free to ask  =)

Oki, I have some unusual noise coming from what sounds like my graphics card. I had a good clean of my computer to see if that would fix it but it CAME later that day.

When I FIRST BOOT up my computer the (PRESUMED) g/card makes a horrible grinding noise, I figure it might be the ball bearings on the fan. Switching the computer of and starting again would work every once in a while, however if I put it in hibernate mode right after its first boot of the day and load it back up the noise has gone and it wont return until the next day when I start my computer up again. Anyone have any idea what is causing this, I don't think its hardware otherwise hibernating should make no difference, however I could be wrong ^^

I am 99% sure it my g/card after booting it without its panel on, and it was def coming from that area

Oh and btw, the fan speeds are the same through out the whole thing, it was the first thing I checked Remove the card and take it to a local PC store to see if you can matchup a replacement fan...
Also are you fans SEATED properly? Are they making proper contact? Are there any wires in the way that may be causing noise?
Your G/card is very doubtfully making a 'Grinding noise'. As they tend to not have the ability.It's the g-card fan.  I've got one that does that from time to time, usually when first started.  I tap the fan & it stops.  The fan costs about $30.  Most of those fans use cheap sleeve bearings & are not well sealed & the plastic doesn't hold he bearings very well.  A small amount of dust or vibration will cause a very big noise. Quote from: Computer_Commando on December 03, 2010, 07:21:22 PM

It's the g-card fan.  I've got one that does that from time to time, usually when first started.  I tap the fan & it stops.  The fan costs about $30.  Most of those fans use cheap sleeve bearings & are not well sealed & the plastic doesn't hold he bearings very well.  A small amount of dust or vibration will cause a very big noise.

So my old computer finally died for good... a quite sudden and pretty painful death.

It's my first time building a machine from scratch and I really could use some advice since I can be pretty noob-ish hardware-wise at times. This computer will be destined for musical studio purposes, it will have to handle CPU-intensive jobs and will require a lot of very fast RAM in which many heavy sound libraries will be loaded and used simultaneously for prolongated periods of time.

OS: Windows XP 64-bit or XP Pro x64
CPU: Intel i7 980x Extreme (willing to go for a quad core for compatibility reasons if needed)
Graphic card: ATI Radeon HD5450 (already owned)
Soundcard: PCI Express Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Champion Series
RAM: 16Gb DDR3, I need suggestions on which brand to buy. Thought of corsair, but I've heard both good and bad things about them.
HD: I don't mind the capacity, but I need very high accessing/writing speed.
PSU: Anything with more wattage than needed, to be safe in case I want to add or change hardware.
Everything else: Open to suggestions
My budget: 2500$

Additionnal notes:
I'd rather avoid MOBOs with integrated cards (like network), if a piece of hardware fails, it's easier to replace/repair that way.
CPU might be subject to overheating; I will need a very good heatsink & fan or whatevercankeepitcool.
Also, please let me know if you are aware of any compatibility issues regarding the hardware described here.

Thanks in advance for the input!!

And before anyone asks: No, this computer will not be used for gaming.  Hardware looks good, I would do some reading up before diving into the project to know for example how to properly attack the CPU heatsink etc so that you dont danage your motherboard etc. With building your own, the warranties are very limited. Its not like a new box that has a 1 year warranty by mfr. Be sure that your mounting of your motherboard is correct and no posts are present that are unnecessary and now grounding component leads out etc. Also be sure to install drives first rather than later as for clearances can soon disappear for easy installation with heatsink, ram sticks, or motherboard power cable in the way. And cables and power jacks can be added to these in the final stage. Then perform a final inspection. Check work closely. You dont want a loose screw putting you out of a large chunk of cash and creating an EXPENSIVE smoke show. Good luck with your build and if you have any questions feel free to post them here and we will all help!

Corsair I have had no problems with, and Kingston I have had 1 bad ram stick only because it didnt play well with other same sticks. Sent it back RMA and replacement stick worked with other sticks and passed memtest86.

Integrated options are as reliable as addon options, it comes down to quality of the parts and if they are used correctly or abused.Nice Choice...

Windows 7 Might Be a good choice when it comes to building a custom computer.

Also Just Keep in these pros and cons:

Pros: You know and have hopefully researched every component you buy, you know how to replace things if they fail, you potentially get higher quality parts, more customizable, the sense of accomplishment.

Cons: Can't build the low end systems as cheap as you can buy, you are your own tech support, no system wide warranty (although individual parts should be), you have to supply your own OS.Note That These are Opinions...No Judging intended 




UPDATE****

I would recommended Crucial  http://www.crucial.com

Im an Intern at Micron and we are partners with Crucial, Never Had a Problem with them....but there a bit spendy  .

The Brand you noted works to.Crucial... I gotta look onto that. I remember hearing a lot of good things about them.

I think I found a good motherboard for my build:
Intel® Desktop Board DX58SO

It supports the i7 980 Extreme
Seems to have all the slots necessary for the cards I mentionned, and even more
And works with DDR3 ram sticks.

Anyone's got any experience with this board?

I've also heard of PCI-E hard drives. Though these are quite expensive. They'd seem like a good option, speed-wise, in case I gotta build up on virtual memory.Not sure but i know the i7 extreme is a very hefty price....wait a minute your not using it for gaming? not sure theres a need for i7 extreme

Quote from: spikedfox on December 01, 2010, 06:43:37 AM

Crucial... I gotta look onto that. I remember hearing a lot of good things about them.

I think I found a good motherboard for my build:
Intel® Desktop Board DX58SO

It supports the i7 980 Extreme
Seems to have all the slots necessary for the cards I mentionned, and even more
And works with DDR3 ram sticks.

Anyone's got any experience with this board?

I've also heard of PCI-E hard drives. Though these are quite expensive. They'd seem like a good option, speed-wise, in case I gotta build up on virtual memory.

Not sure but i know the i7 extreme is a very hefty price....wait a minute your not using it for gaming? not sure theres a need for i7 extreme

I think you need to re-read my first post.

For your information, theres not just gaming that requires ridiculously high system performances.

Yes I know that....did you mention what you were gonna use it for?

Yeah, he said it was going to be for a music Studio... since that has never required an i7 or a large amount of memory (Amiga 3000), I have to agree with your assessment about it being rather unnecessary.



Additionally, no Creative Card should even be considered for any sort of "industrial" type of Music Creation purposes. They are gaming cards. Generally a Music Studio computer would have a Music Studio grade sound card, not a gamer card.

A music Studio? I Think all you need is a quad core with 4 gb ram and then...then everything else you wanted. It should do just fine,
There I saved you about 500 bucks or so

how many partition can be done in 50GB hard disk.
Up to four primary PARTITIONS or THREE primary partitions and one extended partition.And as many logical partitions as you like (restricted only by available alphabet letters) And the size of the drive is irrelevant.Minimum size of the extented partition & the primary partition?

how many drive can be CREATE in 50GB hard drive?Long homework assignment...Yep.

rajon - you got your answer. If you need more INFO for your homework you'll need to find it on your own.please send me the full antivirus configaration of semaentic antivirus step by step.This thread has left the REALM of the ridiculous and has now entered the domain of "+1 funny".On that note...

Closed.

Hello all i was wondering if someone could help me with an issue ive been havin for the last 2 weeks. a couple weeks ago my computer started to act funny by turning off the monitor and not responding unless i held down the power button to turn off and restarted it.

at first i thought it was my video card so i removed it and put in my old card that came with the computer. but right as i figured i had fixed the problem it did the same thing. while trying to boot the computer the screen would go off and the computer would start making several internal buzzing noises. kinda like an annoying noise you would hear if you answered a question wrong. then i simply removed the video cards are plugged my monitor into the integrated graphics. this still didnt fix the issue, the monitor would still turn off and the computer would buzz. ive ruled out it being the monitor because i have another computer at home that i plugged the monitor into and it works just fine. i thought it might have been the PCI Drivers had been deleted, so i went updated them.

after several days of wondering what was wrong i booted the comp one more time and it told me it was missing the Windows/config/system was missing or corrupt. a friend, who works at Best Buy Geek Squad, told me i needed to fix my registry but said it might be easier to reformat the computer. so i did. i reformatted the computer and started it fresh. everything seemed ok until i started asking the computer to do things like run Anti-Virus Programs or go online, it would do the same thing, the monitor goes off and the buzzing noise STARTS again.

so my question is what could be the issue? could it be that i still have a bug in my registry and its still messing around in my comp? could it be the power supply? or the motherboard?

i have a Dell Dimension E510 that is about 5 years old, i run Windows XP Media Edition 2005, The graphics card i use is an Nvidia GeForce 8500 GT, i have Intel Pentium 4 HT Dual Processor, ive got 2 1G DDR2 Sticks of RAM, my Mobo is a CRUUS Connolly E1287242 (hasnt changed since i ordered from Dell, just came with it) and my power supply is a CRUUS Model N305N-03 it has an input of 100-120V.

if you need more info let me know

(i also found where the noise was coming from and its coming form the Mother Board, and previously before reformatting i had attempted to install Ubuntu by booting the comp from the CD drive, the comp would acknowledge the Ubuntu and show me the background for it but right as the setup window would appear the computer would do the same thing, idk if that information helps but thought id mention it anyways)

Thank You
-JCIt's not a software problem, it's a hardware problem.  If it's not the CPU fan and the buzzing is coming from the motherboard, it likely a bad capacitor.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plagueCC --An excellent article related to the problem it highlights. Too bad some of the companies involved have NOT seen fit to apprise owners of their products about this. The only thing absent in the article is any reference to a "sound" accompanying the failure which our O/P mentions. I do note your "fan" reference and if there is a fan on the CPU PERHAPS that is the source of the noise as you suggest. If a visual inspection of the motherboard is possible your article states what to look for in terms of the capacitor issue. truenorth Quote from: truenorth on December 02, 2010, 01:39:40 PM

...The only thing absent in the article is any reference to a "sound" accompanying the failure which our O/P mentions....

I've replaced my plugs 3xs  to connect my bb, but my computer can't see it.  I've been to all kinds of forums, I've re-installed the Desktop Helper, I've tried everything I can think of. I EVEN tried to connect with Bluetooth, but, even tho the two (PC and BB) can see each other, they cannot be paired.

It would keep me from pulling out the few hairs I have left if somebody could help me with this prob. I thought maybe it's about my usb drivers, but.....

Please.

HP G60 Notebook PC
Windows Vista

Have updated everything I can think of, but I still feel that my problem lies in the usb connection or drivers. BTW, the usb port works just fine to charge the BB - such a mystery.Here is a general reference that may be relevant to the issue.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus 

Hello, it seems that no one has answered your question yet.
Let me give it a try. At first, while reading your post, I thought you were trying to connect your Blackberry to your computer using a Bluetooth connection. But when you mentioned charging it from a USB port, I realized you were talking about something else. Apparently, you wish to connect your Blackberry to your computer with a USB cable. Is that correct?
Based on my own EXPERIENCE, and on the information in the reference given above, there may be some setting you have to change on the device in order for it to communicate with a Windows PC. I have seen this problem on different kinds of mobile devices. What it is called escapes me, but there is some kind of setting that has to be made before the external device in the Windows PC can communicate using the USB port.
The fact that it can get power just proves that the connection is there physically. I have a lot of old dad shuffling AROUND here that will do that, collect physically and get a charge from my PC, but they failed to communicate with a PC and told something strange happens. Either I have to set something inside the device, or have to change the USB cable, or have to try again tomorrow, or have to trick Windows into giving it another try. Hard to explain how that works.
It may be that it's a piece of software you need for your PC, is that for the case I'm sure the MANUFACTURER would have conform to what the proper procedure is for hooking your device to a Windows-based PC. Now if you're using an Apple Mac, the rules are, I think, different. But I'm not sure -- I don't have an Apple here to work on it this time.

Please excuse typos and grammar. I use speech recondition software to post.


This is just the strangest situation and I have re-installed and re-loaded and re-placed everything I can think of. My primary objective is to utilize my Tether Software when traveling so that I can use the BB as my modem.  I've used it before with great success, but I don't know if it was this particular laptop.

In answer to the question "Apparently, you wish to connect your Blackberry to your computer with a USB cable. Is that correct?" That is correct, but remember that the BB charges when connected with the USB cable. My Blackberry Desktop Assistant tells me I need to connect my BB by USB cable when it is already connect.d  My BBDA cannot see my BB.

ALSO, I cannot get them to PAIR using Bluetooth.  Each sees the other, but they will not pair.

Today I called Sprint (my mobile phone carrier) and talked to tech. They just opened a ticket and told me to take the phone in.

BTW, today I installed the BBDA on one of my netbooks (using XP instead of Vista). Again, the BBDA could not see my BB. So it must lie inside the phone itself. I have it set to "discoverable" BTW.

Strange situation.

Thanks for your help.

Two days ago, my PC just switched off with no warning. So I thought I switched off the power by accident. Pressed the power button and one of my cooling fan light turns on then off for a split second then nothing still happens. So I opened up my PC and pushed all connections in just in case one of them is loose causing a short circuit. Pressed the power button. This nothing at all happens. So the first component I wanted to rule out was the GPU -  since it was the easiest one to remove. Pressed the power button. Nothing happened. So, I ruled out the GPU. I REPEATED this process for my RAM, DVD Drive and HDD. I still get the same problem. So lastly, I switched the power supply (hoping the motherboard and CPU is fine). I get the same result. So now I'm left with either the CPU and motherboard. I hope it isn't the motherboard...
It appears that you have chosen a good route to start at with the Power Supply Unit . However another easy test is to determine if all your RAM is working properly. Assuming you have more than one RAM module remove all but one and test for a change in performance. Also try the modules in different slots. Don't stop this process until you have checked all modules and hopefully one will be apparent as FAULTY. I take it to mean from your statement "I repeated this process for my RAM," that you only VERIFIED that it was "seated" tightly. It may be possible also that if a sensor is detecting a non functioning fan that it shuts down immediately as well. truenorthI don't know if this is important but, right now, the only thing I have in my computer is the power supply, CPU and the motherboard. Tested that. Nothing happens. I will try the RAM slots. None of the cooling fans are connected. The only one connected is the CPU one. Quote from: StealthRogue on December 05, 2010, 01:47:49 PM

I don't know if this is important but, right now, the only thing I have in my computer is the power supply, CPU and the motherboard. Tested that. Nothing happens. I will try the RAM slots. None of the cooling fans are connected. The only one connected is the CPU one.

Is it doing shutdowns in this configuration ? ?

Hello all,

1 day ago my laptop chrashed. First it showed a blue screen and when I rebooted it, my screen was 400x300px and has 4 BIT. (see screen). I was looking at a other forum and they told me to go to the Device MANAGER. So I did and I saw that my Nvidia 8400M GS video card had a little (!) with it. So I asked what that MEANT and I was told I needed to reinstall my drivers for it. I did but, there is no change. So can anyone tell me how to fix this/what I should do? Is my video card broken? Go back to a computer shop and let them look after it? Or does anyone here has a solution for it?

Specs:
2.5 year old HP PAVILION dv 6700.

Operating System
   MS Windows Vista Home Premium 32-bit SP2
CPU
   AMD Turion 64 Mobile TK-57   57 °C
   Tyler 65nm Technology
RAM
   2.0GB Dual-Channel DDR2 318MHz (5-5-5-15)
Motherboard
   Quanta 30D0 (Socket S1)
Graphics
    640x480
   NVIDIA GeForce 8400M GS (HP)
Hard Drives
   244GB Western Digital WDC WD2500BEVS-60UST0 ATA Device (SATA)   45 °C
Optical Drives
   TSSTcorp CDDVDW TS-L632N ATA Device
Audio
   Conexant High Definition SmartAudio 221

[recovering disk space - old attachment deleted by admin]I went to HP support to find a driver and the list of models for this unit is long, so you need a bit more info on the exact model.

http://h20180.www2.hp.com/apps/Lookup?h_lang=en&h_cc=us&cc=us&h_page=hpcom&lang=en&h_client=S-A-R163-1&h_pagetype=s-002&h_query=dv+6700&submit.x=5&submit.y=7

once you know which one you can download it and install it.Already did that, on the Nvidia site and the HP site, no results But in the chat someone said that I should go back to a computer store; my videocard is probaly melted They don't know what they're TALKING about...

BTW you have a vid chip...not a card.
The driver should only come from HP for a laptop.Try to do "system restore". It should work for sure.

I had similar problem as yours before and it worked for me.It works again, but I didnt do anything

A few days ago, I noticed that one of my fans was making a loud noise (nothing too alarming, just louder than NORMAL). Not wanting it to run all night in case the fan decided to croak in the middle of the night, I shut my computer off. The next morning, my machine did not come on again. At all. No lights, no sounds, nothing. Because of this, I figured it was my power supply (which, I thought to myself, would explain the loud fan noises from the previous day.)

So, I beboped on down to the electronics store and, instead of buying a new power supply, one of the many cases on sale caught my eye. And it came with a power supply. Thinking this would solve all my problems, I came home and transferred all my hardware to the new tower. Eagerly expecting my computer to be back to its old self again (this time with a shiny new pink case - I'm a girl, I can have a pink case, darnit!), I PUNCH the power button and... well, nothing. No lights, no sound, nothing.

I guess it wasn't the power supply. Any ideas on what else it could be? Would a fried motherboard act like this, perhaps?That's like saying:  "My car wouldn't start, so there must be something wrong with the engine.  So I WENT and put a new engine in the car, and it still wouldn't start".  Before the replacement, you had 1 variable, now you have introduced many more variables.  It might have been the PSU & you might have messed up the build.  Diagnose the problem before throwing new parts at it.

If the fan making the loud noise was the CPU fan, the computer won't run if that fan is dead.  Maybe the fan is choked with dust & just won't spin which the motherboard will see as dead.

Loud fan does not indicate bad psu, but could be bad fan bearings.wow commando way to be a *censored*. how is changing power supplies adding a ton of variables.... if anything it takes out one.

you can test the power supply with a paper clip ( http://www.overclock.net/faqs/96712-how-jump-start-power-supply-psu.html )
i have had a similar issue like this and it turned out my motherboard was crap. unfortunately with a motherboard being bad one way i can think to test it would be getting a new mother board but that cost a lot of money. or if you have a PC store near by you can take it in and for around $40 they can tell you what is wrong. that i believe is the easiest way. when my motherboard was crap i just didn't bother trying to get a new one i just built PC. if you do get a new motherboard dont get a Intel DP55WB motherboard there crap.

hope this helps slightly.
What Commando is saying is right. If you start adding in componets to the machine, thinking it might solve the problem, well, you're like a dog chasing it's own tail.
 
I had a similar problem to this. I built a new machine and it would not turn on. So, I removed all the bits N peces including extra RAM and PCI cards etc. So I just had a simple, basic PC. Motherboard, bootable HDD, 1 Stick of RAM and PSU. Then it worked. I then plugged in the extra bits back in one at a time. First added ANOTHER RAM stick. All good, then I added Graphics card. And thats where the problem was. Nothing to do with the power supply.

So, start with a basic machine and then troubleshoot from there. Have a look at the motherboard (helps if you have a flash light) maybe a capacitor blew.

Good luck.

USB ports don't work in Windows XP
Hi there,
I have a Dell Dimension 5150 (Pentium D 805 - Dual Core processor 2.66 ghz, 533mhz fsb - 512 Ram - 250GB Serial ATA HDD - Graphics ATI Radeon X600 256mb - running Win XP HOME premium Service Pack 3).
However, this computer does NOT have PS/2 ports for MOUSE and keyboard therefore I have had to use a USB mouse and keyboard.
For some strange reason, all the USB ports have stopped working therefore my mouse and keyboard do not work. I have checked the bios and the USB controller is set to 'on', I have also done a CMOS reset and the problem is still there. I have also gone into all of the 'safe mode' boot options and again the computer goes into 'safe mode' no problem but the mouse still will not work therefore I cannot access Windows at all, even though the computer boots into Windows as I cannot move the cursor at all, no matter what USB socket I use. The USB keyboard works only in so far I am able to go into the bios or select 'safe mode' options etc
I am really in desperate need of help - thanks so much in anticipation
Phil RossWhat is new or different since the last time everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?Certainly depending on your response to Allan's question something of more pertinence may OCCUR. However RESEARCHING on your behalf i came across a couple of links that may apply. I was particularly impressed with the 1st link as it does provide an alternative (with described limitations) that may assist you. The 2nd link resolves the same issue via a different route. Good luck and keep us apprised of your results please,truenoerth
http://www.eggheadcafe.com/software/aspnet/29229696/all-usb-ports-stopped-working-suddenly-hardware-or-software-.aspx

http://forums.techguy.org/hardware/673766-usb-ports-suddenly-stop-working.html

I got a emachine D3315 thats seems to POWER on with fans and power light and thats about it. There's no VIDEO to the monitor. I removed all pci cards, tried different ram, unhooked hard DRIVES and cd/dvd drives and still nothing. I kept ram out to see it it would BEEP and not even that. pulled battery for a reset and still nothing.

So Im thinking its a goner, Unless any one else has idea. 

Thanks..

Specs
Xp Pro
2.0 ghz AMD Sempron +3300
256mb DDR  PC-3200
100 GB hard DISK

Hi Guys,

Ok here is the problem.

I was downloading some stuff to this SATA HDD. I then noticed that my flatmate accidently turned off the Internet to the house. So I decided to hibernate my PC, and finish off the download tomorrow. The next MORNING, I noticed that my PC took ages to boot. I was stuck on detecting AHCI devices. I then noticed that in My Computer the HDD was not there. I tried to scan for drives in Disk Managment, nothing.
So I then decided to change the SATA cable and port for a working one. Still nothing. Today I continued my troubleshoting and I noticed that even in BIOS the HDD is not deteced. I downloaded a few free data recovery and diagnostic tools. Still nothing....

I have no idea what to do next. I am hoping that it is not completely dead, as I really need the data on there.

Please Help

Ivi Quote

So I decided to hibernate my PC, and finish off the download tomorrow

Seems to have cause something here... Try slaving your hard drive and see if you can retrieve some data first on another working machine.
http://www.dtidata.com/resourcecenter/2007/04/23/how-to-slave-hard-drive/

...I noticed that even in BIOS the HDD is not deteced. I downloaded a few free data recovery and diagnostic tools. Still nothing....
I have no idea what to do next. I am hoping that it is not completely dead, as I really need the data on there...

I did forget to mention I tried the HDD in a known working SATA port with working cabling. As I have an identical HDD that is fine.
Anyway, the disk in quetion is screwed. It does spin up fine, but it is not detected in another PC.
ok, so can I get the data back myself? Is there any way to do so or will I have to take it to a data recovery agent...

When I START my laptop a message appears RIGHT away stating the battery has a "LOW STORAGE capacity." I ran a battery health check and the battery comes up as bad and needs to be replaced. So I bought a new battery and the same messages are appearing.

Reminder I am a beginner with that in mind I thought that something happened with the computer where it doesn't recognize the battery anymore when its not the battery that is the problem. So I restored the laptop to factory installation.
Yet again the messages appear.

So I am now at my wits end and would like to know what can I do to fix it with out having to send it to HP. My warranty is up and would like to fix it myself if POSSIBLE before extending my warranty.
Maybe battery is not charging or new battery is defective.

I replaced the RAM in my Revo, as soon as I plug the power CABLE in it gives me a flatline "beep". I put the old RAM back in with the new RAM and its the same. The RAM is compatible with the Revo. I would keep messing with it but that sound MAKES me want to murder something.Have you tried just PUTTING only the old RAM back in? If the new RAM isn't working alone or with other RAM, it is PROBABLY one of the following:

1. Not inserted correctly.
2. Not compatible.
3. Faulty.I don't know how those gremlins got inside of my revo and nudged those clips but thanks anyway. Quote from: Chope311 on December 08, 2010, 08:56:49 AM

I don't know how those gremlins got inside of my revo and nudged those clips but thanks anyway.

My Dell Studio 15 stopped working a few months ago. I haven't had time to try to FIX for it, and didn't want to shell out 300$ to simply get it fixed so I thought I'd try and try myself. All I'm trying to do is recover the contents of the hard drive.

I bought this enclosure:
http://www.crazysales.com.au/ritmo-2-5-inch-usb-2-0-sata-esata-hard-disk-hdd-mesh-enclosure-in-black_p5457.html

And managed to remove the hard drive from the Dell and place it in that enclosure. I connected that to my current laptop and the hard drive shows up on the laptop. Two hard drive files specifically; one is called RECOVERY (F:) and the other is Local Disk (G:). I can look through (F:) but there isn't much to see. I can't go into (G:) THOUGH, Windows just freezes when I try to do so. How do I go about recovering files from (G:)? I've heard things like "slaving" it or something, I'm not sure what it is, but then I've also heard SATA drives (which I think this Dell's HDD is) don't require to be slaved.

Are there any good, preferably free, programs available? Or is there anything else I can do? Quote from: squib23 on December 07, 2010, 05:16:25 AM

...And managed to remove the hard drive from the Dell and place it in that enclosure. I connected that to my current laptop and the hard drive shows up on the laptop. Two hard drive files specifically; one is called RECOVERY (F:) and the other is Local Disk (G:). I can look through (F:) but there isn't much to see. I can't go into (G:) though, Windows just freezes when I try to do so. How do I go about recovering files from (G:)? I've heard things like "slaving" it or something, I'm not sure what it is, but then I've also heard SATA drives (which I think this Dell's HDD is) don't require to be slaved...

If windows is crashing when you try to access the files you may want to try another OS (if what suggested above doesn't work). Try downloading and burning a copy of Ubuntu and run the live disk. You could be able to see the old and new drives and copy from one to another. It's not a sure thing this would work but it may. Just DO NOT install Ubuntu but "try" it. Good luck.

Ello all ,

All of a sudden, about a week, the little battery icon on the bottom right of the screen has a RED x through it and when I ROLL over it with my mouse it says fully charged consider replacing your battery.

Its an HP Pavillion dv6

thanks,
mp.I guess you should consider replacing your battery.I knew some smart azz would come out with that. lol (kidding)
I've owned several laptops and never seen this. Its not that old and I don't leave it plugged in 24/7 and CONDITION it regulary just wondering , why?Charge it up, then run a test to see how long it stays on.

If you think the battery is OK, then do the calibration thing.
It is somewhere in the documentation.

The thing that says your battery is low has to be calibrated to the battery your are USING. If the battery is just a faction of a volt below the trip level of the thing, it says your battery is low.TYVM I will give that a try. Quote from: MP1975 on December 08, 2010, 06:40:28 PM

I knew some smart azz would come out with that. lol (kidding)
I've owned several laptops and never seen this. Its not that old and I don't leave it plugged in 24/7 and condition it regulary just wondering , why?

Hi, I'm not sure if this is the right section for this topic but here it goes..

For example, when I type:
1) "t or T" in google SEARCH bar, the t will redirect my insertion point to the URL.
2) "q" on everywhere I type, turns out the "Find" function
3) On NOTEPAD, and probably some other places, "3" churns out the automated date/time
4) "u" seems to link to F7 in my Firefox and IE web browser

Abt 7 hours ago when I switch my laptop off to sleep, it was still alright. When I switched it on this morning, this happens. It's a major
disruption to my work.

Thank you in advance! I realised that a few of my keyboard keys are conjoined together, except when I type them in some places like Notepad. But even during so some keys are still affected.

p seems to be connected with alt.
u with F7
t with F6
end with left directional button
q with control+F

Some others I may not have discovered, but it seems that when I type too quickly, some more things happen, which I can't explain, like the PROGRAM running minimizes itself.

On-screen keyboard works okay, but it is not usable when I run some full screen programs.Try this and report=Hold down "fn" and depress the "numlock" key good LUCK,truenorth Quote from: truenorth on December 03, 2010, 03:42:48 PM

Try this and report=Hold down "fn" and depress the "numlock" key good luck,truenorth

Try this and report=Hold down "fn" and depress the "numlock" key good luck,truenorth

Yes that was what i meant. I note Mulreay's comment re that and i can only say that once i too had the problem of keys misbehaving and that instance was solved by the method i stated. However obviously it does not apply to whatever is your issue. Have you tried an external USB keyboard to see if it does the same?truenorth

What's the brand and model of your computer?

When you have the usb keyboard plugged in, is the light above the  Num Lock key on? Try plugging it back in and press the Num Lock key. Make sure that the light above the Num lock key is off, then disconnect the keyboard.

in Windows (unless you're pressing a key that switches keyboard layout). You
might check your keyboard settings in Windows Control Panel to make sure
that you don't have any other keyboard enabled or any shortcut key enabled
for switching keyboard layouts."

hey guys,

i still have the computer slowing down issue, but know i highly suspect my power supply being the problem.
I ran CPUID hardware monitor and i got these readings for the power supply


CPUID HWMonitor Report
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Binaries
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

HWMonitor version   1.1.7.0

Monitoring
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

MAINBOARD Model      P5KPL-CM (0x00000229 - 0x00B5BC60)

LPCIO
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

LPCIO Vendor      Winbond
LPCIO Model      W83627DHG
LPCIO Vendor ID      0x5CA3
LPCIO Chip ID      0xA0
LPCIO Revision ID   0x23
Config Mode I/O address   0x2E
Config Mode LDN      0xB
Config Mode registers   
      00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 0A 0B 0C 0D 0E 0F
   00   FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 0B FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
   10   FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
   20   A0 23 FF 00 44 00 00 FF 50 00 00 00 9A 21 00 FF
   30   01 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
   40   FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
   50   FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
   60   02 90 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
   70   00 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
Register space      LPC, base address = 0x0290


Hardware Monitors
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hardware monitor   Winbond W83627DHG
   Voltage 0   1.25 Volts [0x9C] (CPU VCORE)
   Voltage 1   1.85 Volts [0xE7] (VIN1)
   Voltage 2   3.31 Volts [0xCF] (+3.3V)
   Voltage 3   4.97 Volts [0xCF] (+5V)
   Voltage 4   9.26 Volts [0xA6] (+12V)
   Voltage 5   1.62 Volts [0xCB] (VIN5)
   Voltage 6   1.27 Volts [0x9F] (VIN6)
   Temperature 0   33°C (91°F) [0x21] (SYSTIN)
   Temperature 1   34°C (93°F) [0x44] (CPUTIN)
   Temperature 2   65°C (149°F) [0x17E] (AUXTIN)
   Fan 0      1278 RPM [0x84] (SYSFANIN)
   Fan 1      2789 RPM [0x79] (CPUFANIN0)
Hardware registers   
Register space      LPC, base address = 0x0290
bank 0   
      00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 0A 0B 0C 0D 0E 0F
   00   04 FF 04 FF 01 00 4C 10 01 4B 01 01 3C 3C 0A 05
   10   04 FF 10 00 00 01 01 3C 43 1F 00 00 FF FF FF D0
   20   9C E7 CF CF A6 CA 9E 21 84 79 FF DA 00 00 00 48
   30   38 A2 89 00 00 E0 02 10 05 60 3E 24 50 40 00 FF
   40   03 CE 0B FF FF FF 07 B5 2D 00 00 C4 10 95 00 A3
   50   FF FF 00 FF FF FF 00 80 C1 60 FF FF 19 8C 00 05
   60   04 7F 40 00 01 01 3C FF 12 FF 01 FF FF FF FF FF
   70   FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
   80   04 FF 04 FF 01 00 4C 10 01 4B 01 01 3C 3C 0A 05
   90   04 FF 10 00 00 01 01 3C 43 1F 00 00 FF FF FF D0
   A0   9C E7 CF CF A6 CA 9E 21 84 79 FF DA 00 00 00 48
   B0   38 A2 89 00 00 E0 02 10 05 60 3E 24 50 40 00 FF
   C0   03 00 00 FF FF FF 07 B5 2D 00 00 C4 10 95 00 A3
   D0   FF FF 00 FF FF FF 00 80 C1 60 FF FF 19 8C 00 05
   E0   04 7F 40 00 01 01 3C FF 12 FF 01 FF FF FF FF FF
   F0   FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
bank 1   
   50   22 00 00 4B 00 50 01 DE FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
bank 2   
   50   BF 00 00 4B 00 50 1C 00 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
bank 3   
   50   04 01 02 01 03 07 07 02 00 06 00 20 15 0E 00 00
bank 4   
   50   33 13 FF 00 00 13 00 06 66 CE 0D 93 09 5C 20 7F

Hardware monitor   NVIDIA I/O
   Temperature 0   48°C (118°F) [0x30] (TMPIN0)

Hardware monitor   NVIDIA NVAPI
   Voltage 0   1.30 Volts [0x514] (VIN0)
   Temperature 0   48°C (118°F) [0x30] (TMPIN0)
   Fan PWM 0   35 pc [0x23] (FANPWMIN0)


Processors
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Number of processors      1
Number of threads      2

APICs
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Processor 0   
   -- Core 0   
      -- Thread 0   0
   -- Core 1   
      -- Thread 0   1

Processors Information
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Processor 1         ID = 0
   Number of cores      2 (max 2)
   Number of threads   2 (max 2)
   Name         Intel Pentium E5300
   Codename      Wolfdale
   Specification      Pentium(R) Dual-Core  CPU      E5300  2.60GHz
   Package (platform ID)   Socket 775 LGA (0x0)
   CPUID         6.7.A
   Extended CPUID      6.17
   Core Stepping      R0
   Technology      45 nm
   Core Speed      2621.3 MHz
   Multiplier x FSB   13.0 x 201.6 MHz
   Rated Bus speed      806.6 MHz
   Stock frequency      2600 MHz
   Instructions sets   MMX, SSE, SSE2, SSE3, SSSE3, EM64T
   L1 Data cache      2 x 32 KBytes, 8-way set associative, 64-byte line size
   L1 Instruction cache   2 x 32 KBytes, 8-way set associative, 64-byte line size
   L2 cache      2048 KBytes, 8-way set associative, 64-byte line size
   FID/VID Control      yes
   FID range      6.0x - 13.0x
   Max VID         1.275 V

   TDP LIMIT      65 Watts


Thread dumps
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

CPU Thread 0   
   APIC ID         0
   Topology      Processor ID 0, Core ID 0, Thread ID 0
   Type         01008006h
   Max CPUID level      0000000Dh
   Max CPUID ext. level   80000008h
   Cache descriptor   Level 1, D, 32 KB, 1 thread(s)
   Cache descriptor   Level 1, I, 32 KB, 1 thread(s)
   Cache descriptor   Level 2, U, 2 MB, 2 thread(s)

   CPUID      
   0x00000000      0x0000000D   0x756E6547   0x6C65746E   0x49656E69
   0x00000001      0x0001067A   0x00020800   0x0C00E39D   0xBFEBFBFF
   0x00000002      0x05B0B101   0x005657F0   0x00000000   0x2CB4307D
   0x00000003      0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000
   0x00000004      0x04000121   0x01C0003F   0x0000003F   0x00000001
   0x00000004      0x04000122   0x01C0003F   0x0000003F   0x00000001
   0x00000004      0x04004143   0x01C0003F   0x00000FFF   0x00000001
   0x00000005      0x00000040   0x00000040   0x00000003   0x00022220
   0x00000006      0x00000001   0x00000002   0x00000003   0x00000000
   0x00000007      0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000
   0x00000008      0x00000400   0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000
   0x00000009      0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000
   0x0000000A      0x07280202   0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000503
   0x0000000C      0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000
   0x0000000D      0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000
   0x80000000      0x80000008   0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000
   0x80000001      0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000001   0x20100800
   0x80000002      0x746E6550   0x286D7569   0x44202952   0x2D6C6175
   0x80000003      0x65726F43   0x50432020   0x20202055   0x45202020
   0x80000004      0x30303335   0x20402020   0x30362E32   0x007A4847
   0x80000005      0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000
   0x80000006      0x00000000   0x00000000   0x08006040   0x00000000
   0x80000007      0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000
   0x80000008      0x00003024   0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000

   MSR 0x0000001B      0x00000000   0xFEE00900
   MSR 0x00000017      0x04000000   0xAE848D24
   MSR 0x000000CD      0x00000000   0x80000802
   MSR 0x0000003F      0x00000000   0x00000000
   MSR 0x000000CE      0x00160D24   0x46460712
   MSR 0x000001A0      0x00000040   0x6A972489
   MSR 0x000000EE      0x00000000   0x86790300
   MSR 0x0000011E      0x00000000   0xBE702107
   MSR 0x0000019C      0x00000000   0x88410000
   MSR 0x00000198      0x06160D24   0x06000D24
   MSR 0x00000199      0x00000000   0x00000D24

CPU Thread 1   
   APIC ID         1
   Topology      Processor ID 0, Core ID 1, Thread ID 0
   Type         01008006h
   Max CPUID level      0000000Dh
   Max CPUID ext. level   80000008h
   Cache descriptor   Level 1, D, 32 KB, 1 thread(s)
   Cache descriptor   Level 1, I, 32 KB, 1 thread(s)
   Cache descriptor   Level 2, U, 2 MB, 2 thread(s)

   CPUID      
   0x00000000      0x0000000D   0x756E6547   0x6C65746E   0x49656E69
   0x00000001      0x0001067A   0x01020800   0x0C00E39D   0xBFEBFBFF
   0x00000002      0x05B0B101   0x005657F0   0x00000000   0x2CB4307D
   0x00000003      0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000
   0x00000004      0x04000121   0x01C0003F   0x0000003F   0x00000001
   0x00000004      0x04000122   0x01C0003F   0x0000003F   0x00000001
   0x00000004      0x04004143   0x01C0003F   0x00000FFF   0x00000001
   0x00000005      0x00000040   0x00000040   0x00000003   0x00022220
   0x00000006      0x00000001   0x00000002   0x00000003   0x00000000
   0x00000007      0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000
   0x00000008      0x00000400   0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000
   0x00000009      0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000
   0x0000000A      0x07280202   0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000503
   0x0000000C      0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000
   0x0000000D      0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000
   0x80000000      0x80000008   0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000
   0x80000001      0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000001   0x20100800
   0x80000002      0x746E6550   0x286D7569   0x44202952   0x2D6C6175
   0x80000003      0x65726F43   0x50432020   0x20202055   0x45202020
   0x80000004      0x30303335   0x20402020   0x30362E32   0x007A4847
   0x80000005      0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000
   0x80000006      0x00000000   0x00000000   0x08006040   0x00000000
   0x80000007      0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000
   0x80000008      0x00003024   0x00000000   0x00000000   0x00000000

   MSR 0x0000001B      0x00000000   0xFEE00800
   MSR 0x00000017      0x04000000   0xAE848D24
   MSR 0x000000CD      0x00000000   0x80000802
   MSR 0x0000003F      0x00000000   0x00000000
   MSR 0x000000CE      0x00160D24   0x46460712
   MSR 0x000001A0      0x00000040   0x6A972489
   MSR 0x000000EE      0x00000000   0x86790300
   MSR 0x0000011E      0x00000000   0xBE702107
   MSR 0x0000019C      0x00000000   0x883B0000
   MSR 0x00000198      0x06160D24   0x06000D24
   MSR 0x00000199      0x00000000   0x00000D24



Storage
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

USB Device         Microsoft Hardware USB Mouse, class=0x00, subclass=0x00, vendor=0x045E, product=0x0040
USB Device         USB Composite Device, class=0x00, subclass=0x00, vendor=0x046D, product=0xC505
USB Device         Logitech USB Camera (Webcam 120), class=0xEF, subclass=0x02, vendor=0x046D, product=0x080F
USB Device         USB Mass Storage Device, class=0x00, subclass=0x00, vendor=0x090C, product=0x1000

Graphic APIs
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

API            NVIDIA I/O
API            NVIDIA NVAPI

Display Adapters
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Display adapter 0   
   Name         NVIDIA GeForce 9600 GT
   Revision      A1
   Codename      G94
   Technology      65 nm
   PCI device      bus 1 (0x1), device 0 (0x0), function 0 (0x0)
   Vendor ID      0x10DE (0x19F1)
   Model ID      0x0622 (0x0765)


ACPI
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

ACPI Tree      
----cut---- too much

Any problems here guys..

Ps: been getting some BLUE screens on overclock profile

ThanksSo you think this could be a problem?

Quote

Voltage 4   9.26 Volts [0xA6] (+12V)

So you think this could be a problem?

Do you have another way to verify this? Like a voltmeter?

I have a Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R based system. Yesterday I pulled it apart so I could reapply the thermal grease to the CPU/Heat sink (LONG story- maybe next time). After rebuilding it, I have run into a gremlin. The PC will boot with the power switch every time I turn it on. But after some random amount of time, the PC will start cycling on and off on it's own . This on/off pattern repeats until I decide to throw the power switch. Other then pulling everything apart and reassembling it, I touched nothing.

Anyone ever hear of something this odd?

thanks
skyeclipper

MB              Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R
CPU             Intel i7 930
Heatsink       Scythe MUGEN-2 Rev. B
Memory        A-DATA XPG Gaming SERIES 6GB
PSU               Corsair 850TX
Video           ASUS CuCore Radeon HD 5770
Harddrive         WESTERN Digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX 1TBWhat are your TEMPS like ? ?
Did you remove the MBoard ? ?
If so were all standoffs used in re-assembly ? ?

Too much paste applied ? ?
These are the most common causes of a new/updated BUILD having power cycling issues...

Well i INSTALLED a new processor (http://www.frys.com/product/6185909?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG)

And i put in the heatsink they gave me along with a THIN layer of thermal paste and i checked the temps and it is running very hot and the fan is not doing so well.

As you can see it is really bad. I installed everything like it should of been but for some reason the RPM/Temp is really really bad. Can someone PLEASE give me solutions on how to fix this.... Why  do you think that is bad? 
I have berm in hot tubs with huger temps. Quote from: Geek-9pm on December 07, 2010, 02:31:44 AM

Why  do you think that is bad? 
I have berm in hot tubs with huger temps.

I have Toshiba satellite L450, when I press POWER button to start, for the FIRST time the processor fun is run for 30 second .but after that on SCREEN there is no signal. The power light only gives light. So what is the problem is there any one help me?

Tanks
Check first if you can boot to safemode to see if the problem is persistent. Or connect and external monitor to RULE out also the problem. You could also reseat the RAM module/s or if you have 2, try using one alternately on 2 slots. Make sure the fan is also in good working condition as you boot the laptop. Check for any loose, damaged wire/cable. Any previous issue that might have come to this case?What happened leading up to this ? ?

More details...I Disassemble everything all component and check all parts .I didn’t see damage part ,may be is it have  reset jumper on board ? some laptops have reset jumper around ram or processor ,but when I search the same place a couldn’t get the reset jumper .if u know  tell me .

Tanks
1. Quote

Check first if you can boot to safemode

Or connect and external monitor to rule out also the problem

You could also reseat the RAM module/s or if you have 2, try using one alternately on 2 slots.

Make sure the fan is also in good working condition as you boot the laptop

ok i build my first pc. got done last night. right now i am having one issue.

the sound isn't working right. volume control SAYS 100% but it sounds like its at 10% (like someone whispering across the room.)

the speakers are not BUILT it, they do not have a dial on them. on my last pc i could turn them up so loud hear them upstairs.

i have windows 7 and i went under control panel and it says realtek AUDIO MANAGER. i updated the servers looked AROUND i can't get it up any higher.

please help, any tips pleaseWell Look here yet?

http://www.asklaptopfreak.com/laptop-notebook-help/2008/06/08/volume-turned-up-but-sound-very-low/

Hi, my computer broke down about 3 months ago so I've been using a laptop ever since. My dad helped me take out the hard drive in my computer and hook it up to my laptop to transfer over some files except that I found that my User folder is missing. My user folder contains over 100 gigabytes of memory. However, when I look at the "properties" of the hard drive I found that 160 gigabytes of space are used but when I count the amount of all the files in the hard drive I find there is only 50 gigabytes. I selected showing hidden folders and files yet I still don't know where the missing 100 some gigabytes are? First, just to avoid any confusion, you are talking about hard drive space not "memory" (two entirely different things). Second, are there specific files you know are missing or are you just worried about the numbers you are reporting? Third, what OS are you using (on the old AND new drives)?The OP may also want to take ownership of the files.  I'm missing my user drive that I SPECIFICALLY know that I'm missing. Such as my name is Jay and the my file with everything (my DOCUMENTS, my music, my videos) are all gone. I also know that file Jay has around 100 gigabytes so I think that's the only THING that really is gone.

2ND, my OS is Windows. When I was using my old computer the OS was Windows Vista but now on my laptop I'm using one of the older ones, probably 2003 XP. Quote from: Quantos on December 08, 2010, 02:57:11 PM

The OP may also want to take ownership of the files. 

I'm missing my user drive that I specifically know that I'm missing. Such as my name is Jay and the my file with everything (my documents, my music, my videos) are all gone. I also know that file Jay has around 100 gigabytes so I think that's the only thing that really is gone.

2nd, my OS is Windows. When I was using my old computer the OS was Windows Vista but now on my laptop I'm using one of the older ones, probably 2003 XP.

hi, i have a dual core 2.8 cpu, 3gb ram computer with a 512MB ATI RADEON HD 3450 VGA  and a 256 onboard vga. i'm currently using the onboard because the ati ONE doesn't work. here's what happens.

when i TURN on the computer i either get a disconnected message on the moniter or if i restart it once or twice it get's stuck at the pentium d messsage or i get intel boot agent. what do i do?? please help!!

My wife's COMPUTER desk is one where the tower with the USB ports is down below the surface where the keyboard and MOUSE are operated.

Does a wireless keyboard have to have LINE of sight to the USB receiver to allow it to work?

And if so, COULD a USB extension CORD be used to put the USB receiver up where the keyboard could see it?

Thanks for your help. Quote

Does a wireless keyboard have to have line of sight to the USB receiver to allow it to work?

And if so, could a USB extension cord be used to put the USB receiver up where the keyboard could see it?