InterviewSolution
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InterviewSolution
This section includes InterviewSolutions, each offering curated multiple-choice questions to sharpen your knowledge and support exam preparation. Choose a topic below to get started.
| 7351. |
Solve : Titan Fenrir Evo & Gigabyte GA-P55-US3L problem? |
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Answer» MoBo - GA-P55-US3L And as for overpriced, eh? Someone else may be better placed than me to say wether the Titan Fenrir Evo is overpriced over that side of the pond but over here it's one of the cheapest. Approximately, at current sterling/dollar conversion rates I paid $44.00.Aftermarket coolers, are, in general, overpriced and unless you are doing a lot of overclocking, entirely unnecessary. I say that because all CPUs come with a heatsink fan combo. Many people- and the sellers of aftermarket coolers - like to claim that they are suboptimal. But It would be just plain stupid for AMD or Intel to have a 3 year warranty on something and then give people sub-par coolers that will make them invoke that warranty. Quote So, I didn't know it was oversized (is it?) If it's bigger then the stock cooler, it's oversized. Of you work with a oversized cooler it's more a "your on your own" type of thing when it comes to getting stuff to fit properly... unless the case is designed for oversized coolers, I guess. Quote I didn't know my board was undersized (again, is it?)Nobody said it was... or even implied it, even. Quote and as I have zero experience of after market coolers and nothing on the manufactures site gave any help and there was nothing on the internet (I could find anyway) before I purchased it I wondered if I might be missing something when it came time to fitting it and (obviously) thought there may well be someone out there with experience of these things. But my mistake.While I don't doubt there are many members with experience using aftermarket coolers (I've used a few for Socket 7, but nothing later) the fact that everything wasn't fitting properly should have raised a sort of red flag. I don't know the particular situation with the original stock heatsink (with regard to getting it oriented properly because of the memory sticks). The main problem with aftermarket coolers is you have two types- you have the type that are actually designed to cool more efficiently then the stock, and you have the ones that are designed to look pretty. There is very little overlap. CPU thermal management is something that requires at least a little thought; many of the aftermarket cooler manufacturers (wether this particular one applies to this or not I do not know) simply stick a fan on a shiny piece of metal (usually in a gaudy silver or gold color, sometimes even red, despite the clear fact that paint is not particularly conducive to heat transfer). And the ones that do cool more effectively are overkill unless you are or you plan to OVERCLOCK your processor, which IMO (and some members here do disagree) is a waste of time in and of itself. The CPU cooler fan, should ALWAYS blow air down into the heatsink, or, at least, it should only blow the other way with specific cooling solutions designed for that direction of airflow. Planes don't fly very well backwards, for example, because they were designed to fly forwards; the same is true at least in some sense with CPU coolers. The main problem I have with the whole approach is not necessarily that you used an aftermarket cooler, but rather that you are using an aftermarket cooler (which, presumably boasts better cooling ability then the stock fan) and using it in a sub-optimal manner, making all your efforts sort of vain in a way. Ha ha ha ha, oh how I laughed. A fine, fine piece of advice sir. I especially liked the bit about airplanes not flying backwards. I'll be sure to check the pilot knows what he's doing next time I have to fly. I'm actually using the after market cooler 'in a sub-optimal manner' (wish I knew how to do the whole quoting small sections thing) as it still cools under load an average of 29 centigrade below intel's own cooler even though positioned south to east instead of in the east to south position with the fan pulling the air through the fins from the back of the case instead of pushing the air through from the fins from front of the case. The actual air flow is still the same; front to back. This cooler was not designed to blow the air down onto the CPU but using heat transference (cold and heat tend to swap places) to pull the heat up through the heat pipes from the CPU to be spread into the fins and then cooled (and I'm aware I may be teaching my Gran to suck eggs). I'm also using it because I can't send it back and don't want to have wasted money (oh how I wished I'd gone for the Corsair H50 or H70) and it cools (even with the fan pulling instead of pushing) very well indeed and means I can over clock a bit more than I have already. As for the merits of over-clocking or not - I've found it to be a gain, I can see the difference. Not when using the computer for everyday things such as using the internet, reading mail ETC but it has made a difference in the games I play. They are smoother, less lag and higher FPS (frames per second not first person shooter) ect. I'm sure if I over-clock the GPU I'd see better gains but thats a subject I know even less about than over-clocking the CPU. Though someone else would maybe know why, it's even helped the temps on the GPU. It idled at 39 and went to 43 under load but now idles at 32 and under load at 36/37 so, to my way of thinking, a gain all round. Surely there can be nothing wrong with a faster, cooler computer no matter how it was done.the Graphics card might be cooler because the way the CPU fan was mounted is causing more air circulation around it. As for overclocking it's a opinion thing really. I just don't see how we were able to get by with 20Mhz 386 machines costing thousands of dollars (sometimes even tens of thousands) without overclocking or really even touching the hardware (Except maybe to install that new VGA ACCELERATOR card) and yet now some people feel they need to overclock quad cores and i7's/i5's to "squeeze out their money's worth" when they often cost ~1000 dollars/pounds for a high-end machine. |
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| 7352. |
Solve : PC FREQUENTLY REBOOT? |
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Answer» HI ALL, |
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| 7353. |
Solve : Quick question about RAM? |
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Answer» I was just putting some RAM on a board and I was wondering why did they stop making those SIMM style RAM slots (the early 90s style) where the RAM would be tipped and then bent upward using almost no force at all on the motherboard? I have to push so hard to put the RAM in, it seems like I am going to break the motherboard, so I hold it from the back and nearly puncture my fingers on the solder points. I am not posting this just to complain, if that's how it sounds. I just want to know why they stopped making RAM like that.They're called ZIF sockets (Zero Insertion Force). They stopped using those when DIMM's were introduced. Thanks for replying, but that doesn't answer the question why they stopped making them. SIMM= Single Inline Memory Module DIMM= Dual Inline Memory Module Dual > Single. Also, I imagine it would be time consuming to install 4GB or so of RAM in 1MB increments, even if some folks might find each one easier to install. Also, I've never had to push down very hard to insert SDRAM, DDR, or DDR2 Memory. If you leave the little hook things up when you go to insert it that might make it tough. Also, the only SIMM modules that I've DEALT that did that little "push back insertion" were actually a bigger pain in the *censored* then the SDRAM or DDR that I used later on. (I speak of a 40 Mhz 386 and a 120Mhz 486DX2 that had SIMM slots, as well as an SB AWE32 that has them in fact I think the 486 had them sit upright just like the SDRAM. The main reason I would imagine is that DIMMS generally have chips occupying both sides of the card, meaning you can't have a "fold back" type insertion since either the memory wouldn't fit (the chips on the back would prevent it locking into place) or the chips on the bottom will have 0 airflow and circulation. temps weren't an issue with SIMM modules but with DIMM (especially the later ones) those things started to get toasty. Quote from: rthompson80819 on December 09, 2010, 02:43:07 PM My guess, and it's just a guess, is so the same type of memory and slots could be used in both desk tops and notebooks...Same type of memory, but different form factor. Notebooks all use SO-DIMM's (Small Outline), even the current DDR2 & DDR3. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SO-DIMM |
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| 7354. |
Solve : PC won't boot Past Logo Screen? |
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Answer» I just switched cases from my ALIENWARE Area 51 750i Case to an Antec 1200 and it will not go past the Alienware Logo screen in the start. Maybe your system is over heating, try to see visually your fan rotation and hsf clip. cause this clip sometimes detached by vibrating or else. or it's deatched when you re assembly you computer. Shouldn't be overheating. I see all my fans spinning and my CPU has a H50 and i can feel the liquid moving inside of it. I'll double check though. |
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| 7355. |
Solve : PC loops at "Starting Windows" screen? |
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Answer» Last NIGHT I was trying to install an iogear bluetooth driver from their SITE. When it finished all of my desktop icons but about 3 or 4 were gone and everything in my start menu was gone too. I restarted it but now it seems to be "stuck in a LOOP" for lack of a better term. It gets to the "Starting Windows" screen and then loops back to it. When I start it I get an option screen to start normally or repair using a disc. It loops when I start normally and when I put the disc in it tries to reinstall the whole system. I can hear the hard drive spinning down like its going to sleep or something when it loops. Anybody know what might be the cause of this?By the WAY, safe mode doesn't WORK either. It just does the same thing.Try doing a system restore to a point before the driver install... |
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| 7356. |
Solve : my pc produce 4continous beep when powered on.? |
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Answer» HI |
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| 7357. |
Solve : motherboard boot problem? |
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Answer» I just installed a new Gigabyte GA-H55M-UD2H motherboard with a intel core i5 650 processor. I can not get it to boot, not even to the bios screen. I have a 680w power supply, 500w required, 2 X 1 gb crucial 1033 MEMORY in the right DDR3 fit. What could be the problem? Power is received, system will power up, power all fans. cd drive works. Will acknowledge usb flash drive, but still no boot. All I can figure is that I improperly install something. . This is my first build. Disconnect all components except the bare minimum to enter the BIOS. Leave only motherboard, CPU, cpu fan, 1-RAM module, keyboard, PSU, monitor. Your goal is to get to the BIOS & nothing else, then add optical drive, HDD, 2nd RAM CHIP, until you find the culprit. |
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| 7358. |
Solve : VGA card/driver? |
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Answer» I am WORKING on a Dell Dimension 2300 that is running Windows XP service pack 3. All the images on it are very pixalated because it is running only 8 bits. When I go to the device manager it tells me that the VGA card is not recognized. When I try to update it through device manager it tells me that the process has been stopped. I have updated all the needed drivers from Dell and done a Windows update but still it is not recognizing it. What is the problem and how can it be fixed?Is this the driver you are using? |
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| 7359. |
Solve : Going to go with HP, one final question to ask? |
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Answer» After hearing what people here told me here, I've decided to go with an HP desktop. I'm sticking in the $500 range. Am I OK with the AMD Quadcore processor or go with the Intel Pentium, both 2.8 GHz. And I guess ANOTHER question, the AMD has 4GB of DDR3 holds up to 8GB, and the Intel has 4GB also but it is DDR2 and thats the max it will hold. I thought everything now is going with DDR3? Is there that much of a drop off from DDR3 to DDR2, esp if I can't add more? 32-bit Operating System won't support more than about 3GB RAM, so 8GB does nothing for you UNLESS you use 64-bit OS. Quote from: Computer_Commando on December 16, 2010, 05:43:35 PM 32-bit Windows Operating System won't support more than about 3GB RAM, so 8GB does nothing for you unless you use 64-bit OS. FTFY. the limitation is an artificial one implemented for driver compatibility by MS; 32-bit VERSIONS of Linux/BSD/etc can see 8GB+ of RAM without problems. As far as the original question, the AMD offers more upgradability, and the RAM is slightly faster. (I've not used a PC with DDR3, my 8GB is DDR2) |
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| 7360. |
Solve : Computer tells me that I have a 3 1/2 " "a" drive, but I don't.? |
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Answer» It says that it's working properly, too. It's an XP system. Any ideas?If the BIOS reports there is a floppy drive, then the OS doesn't argue. As I feared, it won't boot after I shut it down. I give up; it will be a paperweight for a few years. Time and money down the drain.p 2-33 of Manual - NVRAID Configuration Set "RAID Enable" to Disabled [recovering disk space - old attachment deleted by admin] |
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| 7361. |
Solve : EVGA nForce 780i LED lights? |
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Answer» I recently installed a new motherboard and noticed that the HDD activity light is only blcking once per second, eventhough its stupposed to be blinking continuisly specualy when the computer is booting up. this makes me wonder if there something with the motherboard or with the jumper settings on the hard DRIVES. I recently updated the bios to the "P10" version. Last time I saw a similar issue, it was a motherboard with a CPU installed that was mismatched to what the motherboard could support. But this was many years ago on a socket 370 motherboard in which a 1Ghz Pentium III was installed on a motherboard that only supported up to 733 Mhz. In addition to this 1 second blink that was from the "Power LED and NOT the Hard Drive LED" the system was running the 1Ghz CPU underclocked. In the BIOS I was able to see that it was running my CPU at 733 Mhz instead of 1Ghz. Other than that Windows 2000 ran without problems and i had no error messages at system post to display any issues. I ended up having to get a motherboard that was a 100Mhz FSB instead of 66Mhz FSB to use my 1Ghz CPU at 1Ghz. thanks i think i fixed it. i reinstalled windows 7 on my sata drive..... let me start from the beginning i used to have WINDOWS7 installed in my IDE drive where my sata drive was just there for back up.. now that formated me sata hdd and installed windows 7 on that the hdd activity light a blinkin fine now. but the power light still isnt on... i think it just blew because i plugged the power led in the hdd activity led and it didnt light up.. I think i just have to go to the closes radioshack and buy a blue led bulb... thanks |
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| 7362. |
Solve : suggest some books/links? |
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Answer» i am computer engineering student so have basic knowledge now i am going to buy a computer and with so many options i want to make a good choice also i want to increase my knowledge about hardware current and FUTURE suggest me some good links /free ebooks/torrents/vediosWhat you are asking for can be responded to quite subjectively depending on the responders own experiences. If that is what you want then let the floodgates open. However given that you are a "student" it occurs to me that the people (teachers) providing you with the knowledge are in a much better position to advise you based on where you are at the moment in your studies. truenorththe information i get in college and my textbooks,syllabus and all are highly outdated... highly A couple of important questions are what's your budget? And are you planning on making it yourself, or buying an off the shelf unit? What do you plan on using the computer for, gaming or just school work. How could the books be outdated?wow... that's pretty much what I was going to post Although my examples dealt with BASIC, since I have a college textbook from around 1975 or so on "Applied Structured BASIC". Quote Dr. Richard Mojenahttp://www.cba.uri.edu/news/newsletter/2007/may.htm Quote from: Geek-9pm on December 12, 2010, 02:29:01 PM truenorth, I agree with sou. obviously i was not talking about c++ as i am here in the hardware section well i want information on how modern rams and cpus,gpus work how so that i can better compare between different series and architectures how aa/no aa dx11/dx10 will effect performance and fps i know that 1 memory bandwidth is calculated by multiplying the bus width by its memory speed. If the card has DDR type memory, it must be multiplied by 2 once again. If it uses DDR5, multiply by 4 instead. The higher the bandwidth is, the faster the card will be in general. It especially helps with AA, HDR and high resolutions. 2 Texel rate is the maximum number of texture map elements (texels) that can be applied per second. This figure is worked out by multiplying the total texture units by the core clock speed of the chip. The higher the texel rate, the better the card will be at handling texture filtering (anisotropic filtering - AF). It is measured in millions of texels applied in a second. 3 Pixel rate is the maximum number of pixels that the graphics card could possibly record to its local memory in one second - measured in millions of pixels per second. The number is calculated by multiplying the amount of Render Output Units by the the core clock speed. ROPs (Raster Operations Pipelines - also called Render Output Units) are responsible for outputting the pixels (image) to the screen. The actual pixel rate is also dependant on lots of other factors, especially the memory bandwidth - the lower the bandwidth is, the lower the potential to get to the maximum fill rate. but how important is memory bandwidth as compared to core speed why is 6870 crossfire better than 5870 crossfire even though single 5870 crossfire is better than "why are my textbooks outdated???" we don't use blobby models anymore and graphic cards have come a long way from quadratic texture Maximum memory 4 MB,Memory clock frequency 75 MHz ,Memory bus 64 bits unfortunately our textbooks or atleast mine have not i want upto date knowledge and google only redirects me to reviews and ads what makes Nehalem architecture so phenominal or why is bulldozer so hyped about? how important is eyefinity,physicx,cuda while choosing a card? what specs should i focus on if i want to play all games for a few say 4 years even if it has to be at minimal settings rather than i want to play all games maxed out for atleast 2 years and then i will upgrade how important is msi vs gigabyte difference if i do not want multiple monitor support do i save something? Quote from: rthompson80819 on December 12, 2010, 02:08:30 PM A couple of important questions are what's your budget? And are you planning on making it yourself, or buying an off the shelf unit? What do you plan on using the computer for, gaming or just school work.here is my current choice... should i choose ASUS M4A87TD/USB3 vs ASUS M4A87TD-EVO i do not think i will need usb 3 support as max speed will not be reached should i go for crossfire route or keep replacing old cards do crossfire cause too much heat should i go for vapor versions will i need higher psu? 6850 vs 6870 vs 5770 if i want to play all games for a few say 4 years even if it has to be at minimal settings rather than i want to play all games maxed out for atleast 2 years and then i will upgrade Name SKU Price Quantity / Update Subtotal AMD Athlon™ II X4 645 ADX645WFGMBOX 6,400.00 6,400.00 ASUS M4A87TD-EVO Prod3050 6,400.00 6,400.00 Gskill Ripjaws 1333 DDR3 4GB Kit Prod112 3,750.00 3,750.00 Corsair 550VX PSU Prod3187 4,750.00 4,750.00 Cooler Master Elite 430 Normal/Transparent Panel Panel Type: Transparent RC-430-KWN1 2,800.00 2,800.00 Samsung B2030 Prod3241 6,500.00 6,500.00 Seagate Barracuda 500 GB Prod108 1,800.00 1,800.00 SAPPHIRE Radeon HD 6850 1GB- Out of stock. SAPPHIRE Radeon HD 6850 1GB 11,200.00 11,200.00 Subtotal: 43,600.00 prices from smc i also need to add a ups to that a simple mouse but i want the total price to be under 45,000 if possible even lower what changes do you suggest told Hutchison talking about computer hardware. These pardon my air. I was not paying attention, indeed you put this question in the hardware section and I shouldn't assume you meant a computer hardware engineer. Nowadays computer hardware and and related electronic devices are advancing so fast that it is very difficult for engineers to keep up with new technology. In contrast, software engineering is based on ideas that are centuries old. The concept of using a mechanical or electrical device to do computations has been studied by men for a long time. The new technology today goes beyond the sort of things that you ever learn in traditional physics and CHEMISTRY courses and even general engineering courses. Some of the things that are being done now with the silicon require an understanding of quantum mechanics. At the present time, the best source of free information is from Intel. You could go to their website and look for any free materials they have available. At this time it would be a good idea for you to write some kind of resume showing who you are and what you are doing and what your goals are. When you write to a company such as Intel, incorporate some information from your resume so they will have an idea of what your needs are. Despite what I just said above, you still need to have a foundation in physics. And a good knowledge of chemistry doesn't hurt either. And of course you need mathematics up to at least calculus in order to deal with some of the expressions that are used in hardware design. You can go on to websites such as Amazon and look for current engineering books that have been made available from the best writers. Then look to see if some of these books are available as used books. You can save a lot of money that way. Although the technology is quite new, even engineering books and written five years ago should be suitable for which you're working at at the present time. It is very difficult to say which way are great engineering is going to go. I would advise the youngster to start investigating computer aided design. Much of the work for hardware engineer has to do now days is actually with the computer. You have to be able to design your circuitry in your layouts on a computer. These are then sent to the manufacturer or to your factory. you somebody else here has ideas about art or books. also, you should investigate the more roll Library. It may build DB that in the future are going to be working on mobile designs. In that case, you need to have a more roll Library available to you. It is quite extensive, but some materials are available online at the more roll a website. please excuse spelling errors or bad grammar. I'm doing this in a hurry with my speech recognition system. You should really get the gist of what I'm talking about by the context. Hope this is of some help patio btw, LSD didn't come from Berkeley. Neither did Unix Unix (officially trademarked as UNIX, sometimes also written as Unix with small caps) is a computer operating system originally developed in 1969 by a group of AT&T employees at Bell Labs, including Ken Thompson, Dennis Ritchie, Douglas McIlroy, and Joe Ossanna. Today's Unix systems are split into various branches, developed over time by AT&T as well as various commercial vendors and non-profit organizations -- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unix (LSD was) Introduced by Sandoz Laboratories as a drug with various psychiatric uses, LSD quickly became a therapeutic agent that appeared to show great promise. However, the abuse of the drug in Western society during the mid-twentieth century led to a political firestorm that resulted in the banning of the substance. Who is this Jeremy Anderson person anyways? Jeremy Anderson is a 23 year-old computer programmer currently living in the hills around Taipei, Taiwan. He labors daily at one of the many silicon forges located in Taipei. His main interests are the study of Mandarin Chinese, cooking, hiking, and programming for fun and profit. He has very little to do these days with either LSD or Unix (not that he is predjudiced against either of these) He can be reached for further correspondence at the e-mail address [email protected] the original quote was quoted by him in 1989, http://groups.google.com/group/comp.os.os2/browse_thread/thread/49ec285cca8bd208/b8d57968ebf070a6#b8d57968ebf070a6 later in 1992 it was corrected, http://groups.google.com/group/alt.drugs/browse_thread/thread/8e577b4f10fac5f8/1153e4eda68e60b6?q=unix+lsd+Anderson&pli=1 "OK. We'll give credit where credit is due here. The quote is indeed mine, and was made several years back at an informal gathering of some friends of mine. I didn't think much of it at the time (nor do I now for that matter) Steve Aukstakalnis (a friend who I've lost touch with. Steve, if you're reading this, you know where to find me now) was largely responsible for spreading it to the net. If anyone should receive the "meme of the year award" it's him. He's pretty social as well and would enjoy the honor. I realize, of course, both LSD and UNIX originated a long ways from Berkeley. It was a wry, off-the-cuff remark, not a polished logically bombproof statement of fact. I will naturally accept nominations and awards for any "meme of the year" contests. Like most residents of Taiwan, I'm pragmatic and obsessed with making money. Don't expect me to travel far to receive it if there isn't some serious cash involved. ;-)" Quote from: lalitmohanchawla on December 14, 2010, 11:06:23 AM patio btw, as for UNIX, close enough. BSD and the AT&T UNIX both shared the same initial design and implementation. LSD was manufacturered in a facility close toe Berkeley. But nonetheless, this has absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with the TOPIC that you yourself started, and seems more like trolling. An example of trolling... I was leaning in that direction when i gave the reply i did. For someone allegedly at the level of knowledge quest the O/P seemed to be depicting by virtue of the question. I found the grammar and spelling to be less than credible. However wasn't certain as todays higher learning institutions are turning out some less than adequate spellers. I also was giving some allowance for the possibility that English was not the O/P's mother tongue (which now seems to have been dispelled ). truenorth Quote patio btw, I reserve the right to disagree...on both points. BTW it's off the cuff Humor...no need to do a soliquioly on it. |
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| 7363. |
Solve : C-Media 5.1 PCI Audio Card Poor Sound Quality vs. On-Board IDT?? |
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Answer» When I ordered my computer, I selected a C-Media 5.1 PCI Audio Card which I knew wasn't "top of the line" but I had thought that it would at least be a slight upgrade. From Day 1, I have been very dissapointed with the sound quality (I do have decent speakers), especially when playing MP3's or even CD's. Most of the Window's sounds seem ok, but they are usually too short to be able to compare them to anything. I suppose I'll just pull out the C-Media PCI card and toss it in the garbage, but I will be moving my home office to a larger room which could accomodate a full 5.1 Speaker Setup and obviously the onboard IDT hardware doesn't support that.Almost all on-board sound in the last few years supports 5.1. My on-board does (but my card goes up to 7.1 so I don't have quite the same dilemma). |
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| 7364. |
Solve : 8 Bepps at start up? |
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Answer» I just put together a new computer and I get the 8 beeps at the beginning of start up, no video or audio. I know what the beeps mean. I have TRIED removing and replacing the ram, removing and replacing the cpu with the FAN, and and removing the battery clearing the memory (the pins). It still does the same thing at start up and I do not know where to go from here. Thanks for your help.Do you have a floppy drive in that computer? If so disconnect it and see if you can boot. If the 8 beeps occurs pre "post" it is usually due to a faulty floppy disk controller. If it occurs after "post" it is usually associated with an issue related to a "video display memory error'" truenorthSorry I am not sure what a floppy disk inside the computer is. |
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| 7365. |
Solve : ASUS Mobo Problem? |
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Answer» Hello Did you make any changes to your computer right before this started? Install a program? download something?What MBoard is this ? ? What OS ? Quote from: patio on December 18, 2010, 07:09:46 AM What MBoard is this ? ? Quote from: Original Poster Asus P5G41T-M LX Quote from: patio on December 18, 2010, 07:09:46 AM What OS ? Quote from: Original Poster XP Quote from: extreme the error it gives is Sunchorization.exe error Is this EXACTLY how it is spelled? Have you tried REINSTALLING the driver? Driver... |
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| 7366. |
Solve : Computer Restarts Randomly?? |
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Answer» Edit: My problem has changed, it now happens no matter what I'm doing. Maybe over heating. I'm not really sure how to read this, so I just took a picture and posted it here: Quote from: truenorth on December 14, 2010, 07:57:35 AM You refer to "my problem has changed". This leads me to believe that you have another posting on this topic somewhere.If that is so it would have been advisable to continue in that thread as we could know many of the things that we would begin asking now which may have already been dealt with and dismissed. There are so many things that can cause this issue. When you experience these shut downs can they be immediate as to when you 1st turn your computer on? Or do they occur after some interval of time and when you are doing tasks that utilize the CPU? If they occur when you are using the CPU are they relevant to some particular application that is running? What is the condition of your case interior? Full of dust? Have you tried opening the side of the case and run a stand alone fan blowing into the open case? Did you do anything at the time when these shut downs began such as a hardware change or a new software program installed? So as you see many questions need to be answered before we can narrow the options of possible fixes. There are even more questions than those i have already posed as well. truenorth No, I originally thought it was because of my games, its doing it now at any ol time. Usually its when I'm idle playing an xbox game (With a PC game or internet or something running). My brother downloaded some music (But it happened before this too). I dont think I dled something to cause this. Quote from: Allan on December 14, 2010, 07:59:04 AM Download BlueScreenView: Im not getting the blue screen of death. It turns off and restarts tis all.You need to identify what MOTHERBOARD you have. Speedfan takes reading from various sources and, as far as i know, diferent motherboards means thats the readings are from different places. Maybe this will help http://www.almico.com/sffaq.php But from the readings, you definatly have a couple of things that look extremely hot. The above link may help you identify them. Quote from: reddevilggg on December 14, 2010, 08:40:44 AM You need to identify what motherboard you have. That link made absolutely no sense to me. So I went to google and googled "Finding out what motherboard I have". I found a program for that and it says: Computer Computer Brand Name: Unknown on Noname Motherboard Motherboard Model: Motherboard Chipset: SIS 650 + 962 Motherboard Slots: 4xPCI, 1xAGP v2.0 USB Version Supported: v2.0 BIOS BIOS Manufacturer: Phoenix - Award WorkstationBIOS v6.00PG BIOS Date: 08/29/03 BIOS Version: 6.00 PG BIOS Message: 651_M Ver1.0a 08/29/2003 Super-IO/LPC Chip: ITE IT8705/SiS950 Not a clue. What make and model is your PC? Can you got to the manufacturers site and look up your specific PC and check out the specs to find your motherboard? Quote from: reddevilggg on December 14, 2010, 09:00:27 AM What make and model is your PC? I know its HP, but I dont know where to go on their site to tell.Here is another free software that will run a scan on your system and inform you of all it's hardware contents. Worth doing and keeping for future reffence when a need to identify components is required. http://www.softpedia.com/get/System/System-Info/Everest-Home-Edition.shtml truenorth Quote from: WillNeedsHelpFast on December 14, 2010, 07:59:39 AM Im not getting the blue screen of death. It turns off and restarts tis all.Unless you've disabled restart on error that's all that's going to happen. Please follow the instructions in my previous post. If it's not a BSOD there's no harm done Quote from: truenorth on December 14, 2010, 09:07:25 AM Here is another free software that will run a scan on your system and inform you of all it's hardware contents. Worth doing and keeping for future reffence when a need to identify components is required. Oooh! Good lookin' out. I saw everest but couldn't find a download... I looked at the motherboard section it gave and got: Allan - I want to stop it, it does it in the middle of me doing things. Wether theres harm done or not I still cant do tasks. Everyone else - Noticingly recently, this is the longest run it's done without actually doing it. I've kept speedfan up and it still says Temp1 and Temp2 at 90C and 127C. Temp1 seems to be going up. Im still worried, is this the work of overheating? The tower sounds as loud as it usually does (Not too loud) and it doesn't feel warm, if anything it feels cold cause its so *censored* cold in New York. Quote from: Allan on December 14, 2010, 07:59:04 AM Download BlueScreenView:Quote from: Allan on December 14, 2010, 09:23:15 AM Its started. Now what?What? |
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| 7367. |
Solve : How Can I Output My Headset Signal From My Laptop?? |
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Answer» I want to connect my headset with mic to my laptop then run that signal out of my laptop without having the signals of the mic and ear merge into one... running it into a cable similar to the one that input it into the laptop. Can this be done? OK, it looks like that would get the signal into my laptop, how about exporting it out of my laptop... without blending the signals?I don't understand what you mean by "exporting" & "blending". On laptop, mic is input, speakers are output. On headset, mic is output, earphone is input. Technical Details * use your favorite phone headset with your PC computer * Compatible with any computer with 3.5mm jacks * Converts phone 2.5mm headset plug to dual mic/audio 3.5mm PLUGS * Use free internet phone programs like Skype, Messengers, & Voice * Adapter plugs into your computer's microphone and headphone jacks on your PC I am wanting to process my signal real time and run it back out from my laptop... without blending (mixing the ear and mic signals together). Quote from: ryevick on December 15, 2010, 05:52:15 PM I am wanting to process my signal real time and run it back out from my laptop... without blending (mixing the ear and mic signals together).Pink is mic, green is ear. Ear & mic signals and not mixed. Quote from: ryevick on December 14, 2010, 08:18:01 PM I want to connect my headset with mic to my laptop then run that signal out of my laptop Out of your laptop and into what? As CC has mentioned a couple of times, headset are designed to keep inputs and outputs separate. Quote from: rthompson80819 on December 15, 2010, 06:16:48 PM As CC has mentioned a couple of times, headset are designed to keep inputs and outputs separate. not sure how many ways i can say it lol... i know those aren't mixed... i know what they are designed to do... i know they are going into my laptop... what i need IS: after they are in my laptop... i want to get them out of my laptop... i want to get them out of my laptop still separated... is this possible? Quote OK, it looks like that would get the signal into my laptop, how about exporting it out of my laptop... without blending the signals?I assume you understand input and output for the headset/mic going into your laptop. As stated already in this thread the basic process of having the device working or would work, however, are you asking for another or different way(existing) that you want to achieved for a purpose?There is only one "input", the Microphone. THere is no other signal going into the laptop. Standard Audio goes out of the laptop into the headset, and microphone audio goes into the laptop from the headset. You say you understand this, but you then ask questions that a person who understands it wouldn't ask. You say "once you have the signal in your laptop" there is only one signal- the mic signal. Any "blending" (heck any audio portrayal of that microphone audio at all) is done through software on the laptop. Once you have a "blended" (mixed) signal, you cannot magically unblend it, In fact, it takes extra EFFORT just to combine the microphone input stream with the system sound. Addiitonally, you requestion that these "separated" signals magically be send down a single Phono wire. That simply is not going to happen. And if you want it to run through the laptop and come out onto two other phono plugs... what's the point of going through the laptop? Also, there is only one audio output, so that won't work anyway. Quote from: BC_Programmer on December 15, 2010, 08:51:55 PM There is only one "input", the Microphone. THere is no other signal going into the laptop. Standard Audio goes out of the laptop into the headset, and microphone audio goes into the laptop from the headset. You say you understand this, but you then ask questions that a person who understands it wouldn't ask. I should know better than to assume... mic is the only input, headphones the only output YES, but that doesn't mean there isn't some cheap usb interface available that could plug into my laptop and change all of that... it's not magic to keep signals separate or to put them back together... I didn't think I would have to explain the configuration of the jack on the end of a headset... have you ever plugged a headset into a cell phone? one connection... that's it... two things going on... two different directions... one jack... it's not magic... it might be easier to ask if there is a splitter available that would allow me to split those signals and only input the mic portion of the headset into the laptop and another connector/splitter that would allow me to take the headphone output from the laptop (which was the mic signal input from the headset) and plug it into a cable along with the headphone signal that bypassed the laptop and again have a two way signal just as it was to begin with that flow into one jack connector.Can you just state exactly what your end objective is here? Exactly what is the purpose of this exercise? Quote it might be easier to ask if there is a splitter available that would allow me to split those signals and only input the mic portion of the headset into the laptop and another connector/splitter that would allow me to take the headphone output from the laptop (which was the mic signal input from the headset) and plug it into a cable along with the headphone signal that bypassed the laptop and again have a two way signal just as it was to begin with that flow into one jack connector 1. You want to used a Headphone and a Headset? 2 different sets. 2. While using the other as primary connection(either direct or with a special plug or adapter), You want another available port/adapter that would accomodate the 2nd connection...? 3. You want to used the mic of the headset( a headphone w/mic already) and connect a headphone(classic) as your audio output using another adapter? Or used them both simultaneously on your preferred activities such as gaming/voip or any applications ? |
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| 7368. |
Solve : Sound Card not Found on Acer Aspire Timeline? |
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Answer» RECENTLY when trying to USE skype or make a phone call, my sound card is not found or recognized. Can ANYONE advisxe as to how to GET it re-activated? It's Windows 7, Acer Aspire Timline X 1830T-3425.That happens with Skype. Google Skye sound card problem -OR- Here is one that was just REPORTED. Quote ...that when I use Skype, my sound card subsequently fail |
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| 7369. |
Solve : HD5850 question? |
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Answer» Ive LOOKED at the specs on the Visiontek HD5850 and the XFX 5850 and there is a 100.00 price difference. The Vtek is 278.00 and the XFX is 178.00. This is from the same retailer. Why such the difference. Is there a difference in quality that anyone KNOWS of? |
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| 7370. |
Solve : mixing video cards? |
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Answer» I have a Visiontek 5850 and WANT to go crossfire. Can I use a XFX 5850?It's okay with me.sweet, NEWEGG has them for 178.00I believe crossfire setups need the GPU's to be the same...i'd do some more RESEARCH befroe plunking down 200 Bucks... |
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| 7371. |
Solve : Toshiba Satellite A665 won't turn on? |
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Answer» Hey GUYS, If its brand new it should be in warranty, take/send it back. Absolutely, why should you repair a DOA laptop when you don't have to. |
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| 7372. |
Solve : Suggest Motherboard Model? |
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Answer» I have a Core 2 Duo processor, 2 DDR2 667 RAM, GEFORCE 9500GT GDDR2 Graphics Card. I don't think it is the CPU because the CPU fan works. You realize the CPU fan would work even if you had no CPU at all? It's ESSENTIALLY a disjoint part. To create a ANALOGY- it would be sort of like saying that you know your fuel mixture is right in your car because your radiator fan is turning . |
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| 7373. |
Solve : Mobo's Compatible with Intel DP35DP? |
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Answer» I've got what I think is a bad Intel DP35DP, and I'm LOOKING to ONLY replace the MOBO. I do NOT want to replace my Intel Dual Core 2.4 GHz, Quad 6600 CPU, and still be compatible with my DDR2/800NHz/1.90V CORSAIR RAM so I can keep my 2 2Gig STICKS. BTW, the DP35DP would only support 1.8V RAM. I left 1 2 Gig stick in there and it ran FINE on that. |
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| 7374. |
Solve : Emachine T6420 Won't turn on.? |
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Answer» I have a Emachine T6420. Bought it a couple of years ago. It was working fine, then locked up. Now, the power comes on (Power light, fans, DVD-rom and the HD light), but it never attempts to start windows. I cleaned the RAM and case, and set up the HD as a slave on another computer to make sure that it hadn't CRASHED (it still works fine). What else could be the issue? Thanks for the help.Exactly how far does the boot process get?It doesn't even start enough to get to the setup screen, so I'd guess that the bios doesn't even start.Can you manually ENTER BIOS Setup?Does anything display on the monitor at any time during the startup process?No, I can't get into the bios. The screen just stays blank. It does switch the monitor out of sleep, but that's it. Quote from: firedog11ku on November 24, 2009, 05:16:22 PM No, I can't get into the bios. The screen just stays blank. It does switch the monitor out of sleep, but that's it.Maybe it's on the screen but you can't see it because the onboard graphics is dead or the monitor is dead. Try another monitor, first.The monitor works when used with another computer. I also tried another graphics card and still NOTHING.I think Motherboard is a gonner, but you can try disconnecting everything except monitor & keyboard. Remove HDD, CD, mouse, etc. just to see if you can get to BIOS.Thanks, I'll give it a try. Well, I unhooked everything, but the motherboard w/ the memory installed. The lights on the keyboard blink every 2 seconds, but nothing happens. I take that the mother board is fried?Try with only i stik of RAM in the slot closest to the CPU...I tried the SINGLE RAM and still nothing. The lights on the keyboard don't even light. Any more suggestions. What is the LIKELY hood that the Power supply is bad? Quote from: firedog11ku on December 07, 2009, 11:45:28 AM ...What is the likely hood that the Power supply is bad?It's possible the +3.3V is out, +5, & +12 appear to be okay. Quote from: firedog11ku on November 25, 2009, 07:18:39 AM Well, I unhooked everything, but the motherboard w/ the memory installed. The lights on the keyboard blink every 2 seconds, but nothing happens. Quote from: firedog11ku on December 07, 2009, 11:45:28 AM I tried the single RAM and still nothing. The lights on the keyboard don't even light. Any more suggestions. Have you tried it with the "other" single stick of RAM in slot closest to CPU? Perhaps in another slot? |
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| 7375. |
Solve : Bios fails to boot any device.? |
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Answer» This is a strange issue. I was testing hard drives for a friend on my personal server, and after testing and reformatting on of the drives the shutdown process took abnormally long, windows had already shut down but the computer still took several minutes to accually shut down. After that, the system fails to boot from any device. the d2 error appears as a "bios boot block" in my motherboard manual under the codes table. It is handy that the board comes with a LED readout for POST tests. I'll try pulling the processor again however, i'm fairly sure the board requires me to have 2 channels of memory per CPU, i'll give it a shot anyhow.I see it now in the manual (p.69). BiosMan has BIOS chips for $27. The BIOS chip is socketed PLCC, so that's good for you. I suspect Tyan had so many issues with this motherboard BIOS, they provided the link to BIOSMan.yup tried with 1 CPU installed and one stick of ram... stops the d2 error again, i havent gotten the 67 error in sometime now btw, i'm pretty much getting the d2 fairly constantly now. I'll try Tyan tech support when they open tomorrow, and if they say the same thing i'll run with replacing the chips, You've been a great help and i thank you for your help thus far. No point on moving on that option tonight as its Sunday and nothing will get processed until tomorrow anyhow.You may want to run MemTest...to rule out a bad stik of RAM... |
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| 7376. |
Solve : Update Toshiba Application Installer? |
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Answer» My A665-S6067 notebook's Toshiba Application installer has drivers from 2009. Is there a way to update the driver/applications in Toshiba appliction installer to the latest ones? I just ask because I'm unable to access updated drivers from websites that also have them, and I've been told to only get downloads from toshiba. I was trying to figure out how to update the application installer because my computer has been unable to download drivers from their websiteIf you have everything covered and your computer is working, there is no need for any updates... Just keep your CD installer intact for the machine. "Its the only thing you need" for that specific computer model. Unless you have other issues that you might wanna clear other than any driver updates... Quote from: jason2074 on November 11, 2010, 03:54:11 PM If you have everything covered and your computer is working, there is no need for any updates... Just keep your CD installer intact for the machine. "Its the only thing you need" for that specific computer model. Unless you have other issues that you might wanna clear other than any driver updates... My graphics driver is currently an older one, and some antialiasing issues are beginning to appear in SEVERAL applications. This is the reason I want to update my graphics driver, but am unable to do so correctly. Application installer is the only way to do this so far. ThanksOk. Is this the laptop your mentioning?--> http://us.toshiba.com/computers/laptops/satellite/A660/A665-S6067 NVIDIA® GeForce® GT 330M Is it on an external monitor or laptop itself that is having glitches? Did it run perfectly before or on a new game or application? Have you tried adjusting it on NVIDIA panel settings first? Yes! That is my computer I'm using just the screen on the laptop. The graphics have always worked pretty good, but lately with some updates I've added from a gaming website for one particular game it has slightly deteriorated the antialiasing properties, as well as the brightness. I believe this is because the updates for the game require the latest drivers for any graphics card. So yes this is the main reason I want to update it all. As far as NVIDIA control panel goes, I have tried several settings but nothing really looks better than the other in terms of what I've mentioned. Thanks Alot slightly deteriorated the antialiasing properties, as well as the brightness. According to your Laptop's product pdf detailed specs : http://cdgenp01.csd.toshiba.com/content/product/pdf_files/detailed_specs/satellite_A665-S6067.pdf Read #8 Display #5 Memory(Main System) 1366x768 native resolution Current OS running on 32 or 64 bit? Quote slightly deteriorated the antialiasing properties, as well as the brightness. According to your Laptop's product pdf detailed specs : http://cdgenp01.csd.toshiba.com/content/product/pdf_files/detailed_specs/satellite_A665-S6067.pdf Read #8 Display #5 Memory(Main System) 1366x768 native resolution Current OS running on 32 or 64 bit? [/quote]I currently have Windows 7 64 bit As far as the display and memory info, I do have the resolution set to 1366X768 and sorry but I'm not knowledgable enough about computers to determine the best display properties with info provided. I have pretty much all settings set as high as they can go, it looks good enough to play any game/video but I just want to make it as best as possible. Anyway if we've hit a wall with this thing it's cool I can live with what I GOT. Thanks for all your help I appreciate it.The best would always be knowing the capabilites and limitation of your machine(especially a laptop) as to gaming compatibilities per say. If the hardware meets the requirements of the game and still causes an issue, It might just need some configuring to work out as in your case. According to the specs., of shared memory, Check it on your BIOS settings. But do not configure or change yet. See Here--> http://www.ehow.com/how_2138456_configure-shared-memory-through-bios.html * If there is such an option. Check and post the memory allocation specified under the default settings. Let's see if we can do a workaround the problem or not.I'll give this a try. Thanks Alot I'll give a response asapSorry for the loooooooong delay. Anyway I tried the method suggested but could not seem to figure it out. Thanks for everyone's help! Quote Anyway I tried the method suggested but could not seem to figure it outWhat method? Quote * If there is such an option. Check and post the memory allocation specified under the default settingsHave you been able to check memory allocation on your BIOS setting? What's the current setting? Quote but lately with some updates I've added from a gaming website for one particular game it has slightly deteriorated the antialiasing properties, as well as the brightnessAre there any suggested settings on the website you are particularly playing or FAQ? |
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| 7377. |
Solve : Hard Drive memory Problem. Swindle or stupidity??? |
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Answer» I recently purchased a new desktop with a hard drive which is suppose to be ' 1TB 3.5" 32MB cache'. I went to check on my local drive(:C) and it said i only have 148 GB capacity. can some explain why this is so?? have i been swindled out of my 1TB or am i just stupid and missed something??? my graphics card is suppose to be a ATI HD770 1GB DDR but checked the system hardware and it was a ATI HD700 seriesHD770 IS "700" series. As for hard drive, I don't believe, they sell new desktops with such a small drive.
Now, at the top, click File > PUBLISH Snapshot You will see the following prompt: Click Yes , then Copy to Clipboard Now, right-click on any empty SPACE in your reply BOX and click Paste. You have just posted your specs! [/list] |
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| 7378. |
Solve : Looking to build my own GAMING pc? |
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Answer» Hello all, umm.. okay, basically ive been looking for a gaming pc for a few days, ive asked around, asked a few specialists the best gaming pc, but the best reply i got was to build my own, apparantly its rather easy and FAR cheaper. But, my problem is, i know nothing about building a pc or what parts i needed, one PERSON however gave me a list of everything i needed (or so he says). But i dont wanna go out and buy all these parts to then find out they either: A: Dont fit together B: The system wont run C: I need more componants. Ill post a list of the things i was recommended to get, if anyone can spend 5 minutes looking through this list for me, and let me know if it truely is all i will need and secondly, if it will all fit together. Thanks to anyone who replies. apparantly its rather easy and FAR cheaper. If price is an issue, but you want a gaming foundation- you would have to start with: Desktop PC (Nobody BUILDS their own LAPTOP, except Steve Jobs) with Intel Core i3 550 Processor. Forget AMD. Not for your first build. Trust me. 2 GB RAM ( add more later, prices will come down, they always do.) Windows 7 Home Premium (Wjy pay more?) 100GB SATA drive Get a used monitor from a fiend or dealer. The are cheap but work good enough. I would NOT recommend you put money into high end graphics. Not for you first build. Of course, this is IMO.looks like a good build, but there are a few oddities: the hard drive you list is a notebook harddrive; you'd probably want to get a desktop drive; better value for GB size (and it doesn't need an adapter). The DVD drive is read-only; and you can't burn things with it. You might want to consider a DVD-RW burner; they are cheap these days. The Case is a good brand; the computer I'm using now is built with a Cooler-Master branded case. Overall, looks good to me. But I'm far from an expert, I got lots of help on my build from several members here (Patio and Calum, to name two). Quote Now, ive checked some websites about games it would be able to run, and it easily passes the test for crysis and battlefield badlands 2 as well as DiRT, which as far as im aware, are the most demanding games in the world.Definitely true, but I should relate something; there are some games that give those games a run for their money requirements/processing wise. One specific example I can think of is Duke Nukem 3d; not the same one that was released in 1996, mind you, but with 3-d model enhancements and a new polymer RENDERER with dynamic lighting and so forth. Of course that's more of a "skunkworks" type of project and not something I would measure against, but my point is that while the games you mentioned do have high requirements, they are probably far from the "most demanding in the world" |
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| 7379. |
Solve : Vostro 1400 buzzing? |
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Answer» Our Vostro 1400 laptop is buzzing, but only when the monitor is DISPLAYING. When it goes to black between programs or switching windows it does not make any noise at all. Whats up?When this occurs, are you using the power adapter? If yes, disconnect it and run on internal battery. If hum stops, it's interference from the 60Hz power line.Nope, it still hums unplugged |
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| 7380. |
Solve : Multiple monitors issue? |
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Answer» I remember having a nice option on one of my older computers You didn't seem to understand it fully...I'm asking if there is any way to have the tree monitors connected and just use a tool to select which ones to use...Q: How can I run three monitors or more monitors? A: To run three monitors you will need at least two nvidia graphics cards. One of the two cards needs to have dual video outputs.* To run 4 monitors both cards would need two video outputs. Add additional cards for each additional monitor. If you run out of PCI-E ports, or are using AGP, PCI cards can be used, althought multiple PCI cards may not function well together and issues may arise. Not all cards can be used in conjunction with one another. Be sure that drivers exist for and offer support for both cards. UV+ and other usb to VGA or USB to DVI adapters can also be used in liu of video cards. As a regular user of KVM switches i am pretty certain they are intended for the opposite use than was suggested.IE to use LESS monitors not more. As an example a KVM switch allows one monitor/one keyboard/one mouse to service whatever the parameters of the KVM switch is.As FAR as i know 2/4/or 8 computers with one monitor/keyboard/mouse. truenorth Quote from: Computer_Commando on December 16, 2010, 11:24:23 AM Q: How can I run three monitors or more monitors?Well, he'll need two graphics cards but they do not need to be nvidia. He already has an ATI card so getting another ATI card makes sense in this situation. When you say older pc you was able to run three monitors on tell me how old? Some How I suspect you had a video card that supported two monitors and a on-board motherboard video connection that supported your third connection you used at the time. Which is a different animal then what many reply's suggest... Your current pc has two connections that are on-board video connection or a inserted video card? Quote from: multifacetedview on December 17, 2010, 05:36:22 AM When you say older pc you was able to run three monitors on tell me how old? Some How I suspect you had a video card that supported two monitors and a on-board motherboard video connection that supported your third connection you used at the time. Which is a different animal then what many reply's suggest...You raise an interesting point. The original post (see below) is not really clear on exactly how his old computer was configured. Would be good to have more details on that. Quote from: Ryder17z on December 15, 2010, 04:16:22 PM I remember having a nice option on one of my older computers By the way, welcome to the forum.I'm thinking it's never been done... Without 2 vid cards i cannot see 3 monitors on 1 PC.... But i've been wrong twice this Month in this case i don't think i am.Well I think the devil is in the vague details. He does not say he could view all three monitors at once but only to select which of the three to run without reboot such as perhaps the 2 monitors on the video card, turn those two off and then turn on the the third one being the one connected to the on-board video card. (I didn't say it made sense wanting to hook it up this way, just saying.) If I remember right some some makers of Pc's yrs ago ALLOWED you limited access to bios control on-board video controls to allow you to disable it while you was operating within OS. Thinking at time it was a VGA on-board. (Dusting the cobwebs off the Grey matter.) lol So my question to you is. Was you able to view all three monitors at once in the old set up? Or.. more along the line of the above suggested being you could run the two on the card or the the on-board one but not both ? Quote from: patio on December 17, 2010, 04:58:14 PM Without 2 vid cards i cannot see 3 monitors on 1 PC....Yeah, AFAIK, most systems with onboard video will not allow using the onboard port(s) and a card in an expansion slot simultaneously. In other words, installing card usually either automatically disables the onboard video or the user needs to access BIOS settings and disable onboard video in order to use the add-on video card. (Thanks for the welcome, soybean ) Agreed, I think that what he is running into on the newer system he needs to reboot to access the bios to disable one to run the other, unlike when he did not have to in his older system. End result if this is how he is applying the original question. (a) NO, there is no way to enable the feature on the newer system. |
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| 7381. |
Solve : my hope in life solve this problem? |
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Answer» i have pc AGO 1 month this pc |
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| 7382. |
Solve : soundcard confusion? |
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Answer» i am using a cmedia soundcard & am able to play through speakers but not able to stream on the web, i've updated it via windows update site & cnet yet driver DETECTIVE tells me it is out of date. Any help is much appreciated.There are better ways of finding appropriate/correct drivers rather than using any driver agent. You might be having driver conflicts LEADING to internet connection problem. It will be much clearer if you specify your computer brand/model/specs,components and what lead to this issue? Have you tried directly to any manufacturing sites for support?the pc is a dell dimension e521 xp professional, soundcard is a cmedia cmi8738c3dx. Ive been to the cmedia site there is no support help OFFERED. I did have to do system restore prior to this issue.DO NOT USE THIRD PARTY APPS TO UPDATE DRIVERS. |
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| 7383. |
Solve : HELP!!! - Do not turn on my Notebook - HP Pavilion 6920us? |
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Answer» Hola como andan? tengo una gran duda, espero que me puedan ayudar...
The notebook will not start or to back or forward, as if it were not getting power. The notebook is a HP Pavilion dv6920us. |
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| 7384. |
Solve : A: is not accessible? |
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Answer» "A" drive cannot read 3 1/2 floppy disk. Error msg "No ID address mark was found on floppy disk". So as i understand it none of the 3 PC's are able to read the floppies. This points to an issue with the floppy discs and not the drive. If you can access the drive via "my computer" right click on the icon for the floppy drive and then with a disc in the drive try a "format" process and see if you can format the disc that way and then use it. truenorthI tried your suggestion and it is unable to format disk. I tried 2 different disks and both with same results, I am going to return the disks for refund, I wanted to check with PCHope first to make sure I didn't didnt miss anything. Thanks for your helpWhat is on these floppies ? ? Quote from: patio on December 19, 2010, 01:26:46 PM What is on these floppies ? ?nothing, they are new formated disksThis is unlikely to advance your issue. However i must state it in the very remote possibility that it exists. It should NOT as these are "New" floppies. There is a small tab on one of the corners (the upper right as the disk is facing you on the label side when the write portion is at the bottom). This tab is movable to allow a situation (user selected) to CREATE it so that the disk cannot be overwritten. This would NOT prevent reading the disk however it would prevent writing to it (as in trying my process of format). So try moving the tab to the opposite position that it is in now and try the format route again. truenorth Quote from: truenorth on December 19, 2010, 02:27:55 PM This is unlikely to advance your issue. However i must state it in the very remote possibility that it exists. It should NOT as these are "New" floppies. There is a small tab on one of the corners (the upper right as the disk is facing you on the label side when the write portion is at the bottom). This tab is movable to allow a situation (user selected) to create it so that the disk cannot be overwritten. This would NOT prevent reading the disk however it would prevent writing to it (as in trying my process of format). So try moving the tab to the opposite position that it is in now and try the format route again. truenorth I checked the tabs, they are in write position (hole covered). The properties show 0 bytes used and 0 bytes available with write protect on (hole open)Do you have a floppy upon which you know there is written data? If you place that floppy in the drive can it be read?truenorth P.S. I should probably await your reply but in order to try to MOVE the issue forward as quick as possible i am amending this post. Has this floppy drive EVER WORKED properly? If not I'll be coming forth with more info re the proper method for installing a floppy drive. Quote from: truenorth on December 19, 2010, 03:11:50 PM Do you have a floppy upon which you know there is written data? If you place that floppy in the drive can it be read?truenorthQuote from: cstitt on December 19, 2010, 12:50:05 PM I tried reading the disks in 3 different PC,s.BC ,with all due respect the "discs that the O/P is most likely referring to are the "new" discs. This is not my question. It is any "other"discs? At this point i am allowing for the possibility ,while remote as i stated in one of my earlier posts, is that there "might" be a problem with his own floppy drive.truenorth Quote from: truenorth on December 19, 2010, 03:38:13 PM is that there "might" be a problem with his own floppy drive.truenorth Ok. And how does that problem with his floppy drive affect the other floppy drives that they have been tried in?It doesn't . Also how do YOUR posts advance the O/P's issue towards a solution? truenorthI second truenorth's question of "are there any other discs that work in these drives?". And to clarify, you are running Windows? I would give DOS a try-- open up command PROMPT, type "a:" (w/o quotes). Quote from: Shark Fin 101 on December 19, 2010, 10:42:24 PM I second truenorth's question of "are there any other discs that work in these drives?". I have never used a: drive on these pc's and I don't have any disks with data or files to check. I got A> prompt on DOS window but I have forgotten all DOS cmd's and syntaxTry DIR while it displays "A:\>" |
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| 7385. |
Solve : Media test failure, please check cable??? Computer was working, now it is not...? |
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Answer» This is my first post on here, thanks to anyone with any help. This is a 4-5 year old Gateway laptop that I really need to get a little info off of before she goes into the trash. She was working LAST Friday but when I came in this morning she gave me this screen. I searched this forum for a solution but didn't really find anything that helped. Here's a picture of the screen: Go to the website of your hd manufacturer and download and run their diagnositc utility. Alternatively, if you are running XP you can boot to the Recovery Console and run chkdsk /rI am running XP... Can you explain both of these in a little more detail?Boot to your XP Cd. CHOOSE the FIRST repair option (that will take you to the recovery console). Once there, run chkdsk /r Quote from: Allan on December 20, 2010, 10:30:15 AM Boot to your XP Cd. Choose the FIRST repair option (that will take you to the recovery console). Once there, run chkdsk /rgotcha, working on it now, thx. I'll let you know how it goes. RobIt will take a while and run 5 passes. Let it finish. When it does, type EXIT and press ENTER (or just do a hard reboot, either is fine). Quote from: Allan on December 20, 2010, 10:38:28 AM It will take a while and run 5 passes. Let it finish. When it does, type EXIT and press ENTER (or just do a hard reboot, either is fine).Actully it took me here after I ran the first repair choice: Bad huh? Or did I do something wrong?When the "install" process first starts it tells you to press F6 if you need to install the SATA drivers. You'll need to have the sata drivers on a floppy and then press F6 at that point. Or - read this: http://www.raymond.cc/blog/archives/2008/01/21/install-xp-setup-did-not-find-any-hard-disk-drives-installed-in-your-computer/ I don't think the BIOS is recognizing the hard drive. Quote from: Allan on December 20, 2010, 10:48:29 AM When the "install" process first starts it tells you to press F6 if you need to install the SATA drivers. You'll need to have the sata drivers on a floppy and then press F6 at that point.Is there a way to intall it without a floppy? Maybe from a CD or thumb drive? I don't have floppy and no real easy access to one. Also Lets say I installed all of Windows XP on an extrenal hard drive, would that work? Could I than mess around with the broken drive, in my laptop, and get my STUFF off of it? Thx again for all your help, RobOn Gateway Solo Laptop, hit F2-key on power up to enter BIOS. If the hard drive is not recognized, it has probably failed. |
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| 7386. |
Solve : Laptop LCD Screen Issues? |
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Answer» Hi all. I have a Dell XPS M1330 laptop; it's been great for me. However, now I have this vertical bar running up and down the center of my SCREEN. It approximates this: ...I've opened it up and isolated the cause-- it appears to be most sensitive right around where the connector attaches to the board below the actual LCD....Inspect & clean the connector contacts & look with a a magnifying glass for any frayed wires.Thanks for your responses! I've already blown the connectors out with compressed air and I have inspected the wire/connector as much as would be relevant. Would there be any other cleaning method? Quote i really think that this is a bad lcd you should look for a new lcd or just get a new laptop. those would be my options...Pretty sure it's not a bad LCD-- everything points to the connector, not the LCD itself. And I abhor waste-- the laptop can provide many more years of good service if I fix it. Quote from: Shark Fin 101 on December 11, 2010, 02:22:10 AM ... 1. Would there be any other cleaning method?1. Alcohol or contact cleaner. Usually the wires FRAY around the hinge area, not at the connector. 2. I agree, it's not the LCD. Clean both the connector & the receptacle. 3. Hope it's not a crack in the motherboard; unlikely, but possible. You have nothing to lose (except some time) by attempting to repair it. If unsuccessful, you can sell the entire laptop which is dissassembled and SOLD for parts, for a lot more than you'd expect. Dells are in high demand for parts; I GOT a $100 for an 8-year old Dell. Better than sending it to the recycle bin. Quote from: Shark Fin 101 on December 11, 2010, 02:22:10 AM Thanks for your responses! well lets just say its the connectors and its not dust or plug issue, your really gonna go throught the hasstle to replace those wires knowing that its probably gonna cost more to repair.Hi all, Thanks for the suggestions/assistance, everyone. I fixed it. With a piece of foam and some tape. Throughout my initial inspections, I suspected the wire connecting the graphics card to the board underneath the LCD (forgive my inexperience with LCDs-- I'm sure it has a name, just not sure what to call it). But I was wrong-- that connector was just fine. I neglected to look at the ribbon cable from the board to the LCD, until this evening. I found that although this part of the board was covered in insulating material, I could barely touch one area and the bar would go away. So, I attached a piece of foam to the inside of the bezel, put everything back together, and (due to the slight pressure on the ribbon cable connector underneath the insulation) it now works. I no longer have to use only half of my screen. Again, thanks all, especially Computer_Commando-- I wouldn't have opened it up again if it weren't for your recommendation to clean the connector with alcohol. If the external monitor display is fine, then you have a problem with the Laptop LCD screen or the LCD cable connection. If the external monitor image is the same as on the Laptop LCD, then it is likely to be a faulty integrated onboard video, this means replacing the motherboard of the Laptop. Quote from: Shark Fin 101 on December 19, 2010, 10:29:13 PM ...I attached a piece of foam to the inside of the bezel, put everything back together, and (due to the slight pressure on the ribbon cable connector underneath the insulation) it now works.....Again, thanks all, especially Computer_Commando-- I wouldn't have opened it up again if it weren't for your recommendation to clean the connector with alcohol...If you continue to open and close the screen, it will EVENTUALLY fail. A wire is broken or wire insulation has rubbed off and 2 wires are shorting. |
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| 7387. |
Solve : Intel Core i7 Supported For My Mobo?? |
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Answer» Is the intel core i7 (Link) compatible with the shuttle FN27V10 MOBO? |
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| 7388. |
Solve : LCD Monitor display? |
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Answer» I have a Dell 20" monitor that came with the Dell Dimension C521 computer i bought a few years ago, and the monitor is now malfunctioning. I don't understand why the dog is in there, maybe he broke it.Huh? The internal power supply in LCD monitors sometimes fail. That might be the problem with your monitor. As Allan, said, try a different monitor. Or, try your monitor on a different computer. |
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| 7389. |
Solve : Can't See Hard Drive? |
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Answer» Computer: Computer:After reading your description several times, I have questions: What is make & model of enclosure? Did you forget to connect something properly inside the enclosure? Is the enclosure capable of supporting drives as large as 2TB? Click start then run and type diskmgmt.msc and press enter. This will open disk management. Does the drive show up there?What make and model of enclosure - - Interface: SATA to USB 2.0 and Firewire 1394a - Chipset: JMicron JMB-353 - Supports: 3.5-inch SATA (Desktop) Hard Drives - External Interfaces: 2x 6-pin Firewire 1394a ports, 1x USB 2.0 port - Compatible OS: Windows 2000/ME/XP/2003/Vista, Mac OS 8.6 or above, Linux kernel 2.6+ - Supports High-speed USB 2.0 (480Mpbs)/1.1 and Firewire 1394 (400Mpbs) - Hot-Swappable, Plug-n-Play - Better vantilation design with a built-in Fan - Anti-Shock Design: Hard drive can be fastened on the internal mounting frame with the bolts provided - Size: 202 x 127 x 46mm Did I forget to connect something properly in the enclosure - I highly doubt it. It was a rather simple A to B connecting process, I rechecked to make sure they weren't loose or anything also. Is it capable of supporting 2tb - Yes. The enclosure fits like a glove on the hard drive. Diskmgmt.msc - The drive does not show up. the the cable connected to it does. Does the HDD have a SATA connector along with the USB plug that was damaged - All cables are new. Quote from: patio on December 21, 2010, 03:34:00 PM Does the HDD have a SATA connector along with the USB plug that was damaged ? ?Reboot your system and hit F2 as soon as you see the Dell startup screen (the options are F2 for setup, F12 for boot sequence). In the System Setup screen, do these steps. - Select Drives: - Make sure your Diskette Drive (3.5 floppy) is set properly (Usually set to Internal) - Make sure that “Drive 0: SATA-0″ drive is set to “ON” Go to “SATA Operation”: Your system proabaly came set to “RAID Autodetect / AHCI” – THIS SETTING CAUSES YOUR SYSTEM TO GO INTO AN IDE LOOP AND DOESN’T ALLOW IT TO FIND YOUR FACTORY INSTALLED SATA DRIVE. CHANGE THE SATA OPERATION SETTING TO “COMBINATION” Reboot – make sure that the boot sequence is set to CD rom before HD and make sure that the reinstall CD is in the drive. Setup will load, hit enter to reinstall XP. Your HD should now be detected and you should see the licensing agreement. Quote from: cesaralvareza65 on December 22, 2010, 10:13:35 AM Reboot your system and hit F2 as soon as you see the Dell startup screen (the options are F2 for setup, F12 for boot sequence).Why do you offer this ADVICE when it has nothing to do with the issue in question? This is rhetorical question, don't bother to respond.I was advised to go to disk management and look for it there. i found my drive and it said it was unallocatedIf there was data on this drive we need to consider a data retreival option... It sounds like the drive was unplugged 1 too many times without using the safely remove option... Either way let us know so we can ADVISE further... PS Your stuff may be gone...prepare for that eventuality...I have an Epson Stylus CX8400 and I can't print in Black because the red ink CARTRIDGE is empty. I called Epson and they told me that the red cartridge would have to be replaced before I can print anything. The way I see it is that if I have a good working black cartridge in the machine, I should be able to print in just black ink, but not with this machine. So I suggested that they make that an option on future machines. Just makes sense to me that I should be able to print in black at ANYTIME if I want to. Just my thoughts God Bless Doc I have a feeling that was supposed to be in another thread... Quote from: patio on December 22, 2010, 03:14:27 PM If there was data on this drive we need to consider a data retreival option... Right. I'm currently looking in to data retrieval The usb breaking must have been the straw that broke the camels back. I've come to terms with that possibility. and whether it's there or not. i just want this thing to work again. i really dont care to eat the money i spent on it. |
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| 7390. |
Solve : Why is my computer using two networks now?? |
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Answer» Only today, my internet CONNECTION started to fail for no reason. My normal 18 mb download speed has gone down to 1 mb (this has happened already before, I downloaded a 4 gb game on my friend's laptop using my internet, then recently, a week ago, i re-downloaded the game on my computer. But also, when i check the internet icon (Windows VISTA), it says Currently Connected to Network 3 Access: Local and Internet, Network 2 Access: Local and Internet. |
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| 7391. |
Solve : Can't replace DVD driver? |
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Answer» Hi, You could install the driver from the internet, usb-stick or such No you cant, because, as already stated...... Quote from: Allan on December 21, 2010, 11:35:52 AM optical drives do not need drivers.You could also Run This Fix... Nice.. |
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| 7392. |
Solve : Printer won't print from black ink cartridge? |
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Answer» I have an HP Photosmart 3210a All-in-One printer, scanner, & copier. For some reason, it won't print from the black ink cartridge. At first, I thought it was empty, so I replaced it. The new one I BOUGHT had the same problem so I thought it was possibly a faulty cartridge. Finally, after I went back to the shop to exchange it, the newest one also didn't work. It will print from the other colors when selected. The problem seems just like the cartridge it out of ink but the ink level indicator is working and shows that there has been plenty of ink in all of the cartridges I have been trying. A lot of printers use the coloured cartridge even when printing just in black unless you select 'greyscale'.Document that please.Did you remove the tab from the cartridge that preserves the ink when you opened the package?Do all of the above first. But as a long shot, I had an Epsom all in one several years ago. I usually always had spare cartridges, but one time I didn't. The black cartridge was out of ink and I had something I had to print out immediately, and be somewhere else in a few minutes. I pulled the black cartridge, sent the file to print and it printed out in black using just the color cartridge.Remove the cartridge and rub a soft tissue over the gold part of the cartridge. Then replace. This does work. Your issue is most likely related to a "clogged" print NOZZLE (head) for that particular jet. I have never tried the "compressed air" approach. I would be very interested to see if that works. Print head nozzles are extremely small and GENERALLY very delicate. So i would think that compressed air applied in the manner suggested could damage the nozzles. I would try MANY print head cleaning cycles (at least 10). If that doesn't work depending on your printer there are kits available for print head cleaning (usually use a cleaning fluid either in a cartridge like the one your printer uses or introduced via a syringe before the print head. These kits are not expensive but in my use of them some have been successful and some have not. How accessible are the actual print heads on that printer--can you see them? truenorthThis thread is 2 months old. I'm assuming it's solved and locking it. |
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| 7393. |
Solve : Power supply LED/No power? |
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Answer» Earlier this morning I attempted to turn on my computer with little avail. I have built this computer over last weekend, and everything has been running SMOOTHLY. Now, it will not turn on and, while receiving power, the STANDBY light on my power SUPPLY blinks yellow. What can I do to solve this?NEW or used PSU ? ? |
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| 7394. |
Solve : Beep code error and keyboard not functioning? |
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Answer» HI there!! When I pressed that ON button, the laptop start beeping for about 30secs( i guess it is 2 long beeps, but i could find a error code lik tat) and stops. Windows will come up after about 3-4 minutes. After that some keys on the keyboard will not function. The keys that functioned will repeat KEY strokes. How do you solve this problem. Some times keys started workiing and not working. can i have de solution pls! Laptop details: Acer 5738 Intel Core 2 Duo Windows 7 Ultimate 4GB RAM and 320GB Hard Drive Keyboard might be bad...stuck keys etc...when windows comes up open wordpad or notepad etc and try all keys to make sure all A-Z and 0 to 9 are there. ALSO check F keys etc. |
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| 7395. |
Solve : partition a computer? |
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Answer» I have a COMPUTER used to control a machine.( hard disk :312 GB win : xp ). CONTAIN Just one drive C: You open up the software, set the new size of the C: partition * = If this step is skipped, you can create partitions whenever you want to inside windows/linux or whatever operating system is usedYou don't need 3rd party software. You can just use disk management. If you do want to use a third party app try Easeus Partition Manager (it's free).Well Thank you Ryder17z & Allan I tend to Easeus Partition Manager Quote from: moro on December 25, 2010, 07:51:36 AM I have a computer used to control a machine.( hard disk :312 GB win : xp ). contain Just one drive c:Quote from: Allan on December 25, 2010, 08:02:45 AM You don't need 3rd party software. You can just use disk management.That's true with Windows Vista and Windows 7 but not Windows XP.so Easeus Partition Manager is the best choice Yes. |
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| 7396. |
Solve : Plugging off computer every night?? |
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Answer» Ok, we discussed about shutting it down. I figured out maybe it WIL be better to shut it down every night just because of the bad electromagnetic stuff that come out of it. So the cable to my monitor burned, so I bought a new one. The lamp on the transformer below or whatever it is is just so bright and the computer is right to my head when I sleep. Can I do some damage to my computer by turning it of AND THAN PLUGGING it off? As long as you make a proper computer shutdown. Then plugging it off is not an issue but a safety practice. However, Quote So the cable to my monitor burned,. Is there any connection to this prior to the plugging off? Quote from: jason2074 on December 24, 2010, 03:02:47 AM As long as you make a proper computer shutdown. Then plugging it off is not an issue but a safety practice. However, . Is there any connection to this prior to the plugging off?thx for the comment and no.. there isnt any connection. I just overused it or something One DAY i was playing and than I heard a BOOM under my desk. And than I found out that new ones cost 100$ -.- ah WELL..I still want to know what "Plugging it off" means. Quote from: BC_Programmer on December 24, 2010, 11:15:21 AM I still want to know what "Plugging it off" means. Unplugging, I guess. Do you call it something different over there, like you do with taps/faucets? Unplug/Unplugged/Unplugging a cord/powercord or anything that is plug. Quote from: Salmon Trout on December 24, 2010, 11:44:05 AM Unplugging, I guess. Do you call it something different over there, like you do with taps/faucets? We call it Unplugging. "Plugging off" sounds like a nonsensical phrase to me. Unless you don't turn it off first, then you are sort of plugging it off... but actually, "unplugging it off" would make more sense. Now, On to be sure, "Plugging off" makes a LOT more sense with taps/faucets; after all, you are quite literally plugging off the water flow. But with unplugging a electrical cable, you aren't plugging off the electricity as you are breaking the circuit; it's yet another phrase that probably stemmed from the common metaphor that Electricity is like water.Nah.. I am talking about Unplugging it from the plug (cutting all source of elecricity) or whateva :p I was wondering about.. could that make a power surge or something like that that would damage my computer? Ive been unplugging it for a month or two now but I am kind of worried.. Quote from: BC_Programmer on December 24, 2010, 12:28:13 PM We call it Unplugging. I should remember that in many countries other than mine, power sockets ("outlets") don't have switches. A UK 13 Amp 230 volt socket outlet. I switch mine off every night after shutting down and when I leave the house and I always have done for about 15 years and I have never lost a computer yet. The sockets have double pole switches and turning one off is equivalent to removing the plug in an unswitched socket. If the PC is already shut down then the current being broken is zero or negligible. So "plug off" if you want to. ahhhhh Now the expression makes sense!In fact if you live in a zone subject to electrical storms and your electric supply is by overhead wires, you probably should remove the plug when you are not using the computer or when there is lightning nearby. It is plainly NOT a good idea to "unplug" the equipment every night. I just did a test: - got a Presario R3000 Laptop with an External Power Supply 110V AC to 20V DC. - unplugged the Power Supply from the Laptop. - connected a Voltmeter to the Power Supply - reading 20V DC - unplugged the Power Supply from the Wall Outlet keeping the Voltmeter connected and let the Remnant Voltage die down to Zero. - plugged the Power Supply back into the Wall Outlet. - Reading 30V DC. This is a Surge of 10V DC or 50% - the reading then dies down, back to 20V DC, still unplugged from the PC. I am not sure what the PC Internal power surge is when doing a cold start, but it could be a lot, and it does happen. The same type of Power Surge occurs in TV, Stereo, Xbox and better believe it. If you want to be protected from External Power Surges, get a Power Bar with a Surge Protector, and leave the equipment plugged. The power usage for a on PC standby is next to nothing: -PC is 2 Watt / hr -TV is 2 Watt / hr I will soon dedicate a whole subject to Equipment Usage and Cost. Wow...a laptop Power adapter doesn't provide full power until the laptop actually draws it. that 30v DC is used by the laptop. when you use a voltmeter it probably senses there isn't much draw and just provides the lowest it can; 20v, in this case. this is particularly irrelevant SINCE we're talking about desktop computer power supplies. Quote from: alexK on December 24, 2010, 06:39:23 PM It is plainly NOT a good idea to "unplug" the equipment every night. The DC voltage from an unloaded power supply will rise when AC is applied. You have "proved" nothing. This is not a "surge". |
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| 7397. |
Solve : Computer won't turn on after power outage; details inside.? |
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Answer» Here is my hardware that's relevant to this issue. Is it my motherboard that died or the PSU, based on the information I provided? Impossible to say for sure. You would have to replace one or the other. PSU's are a lot cheaper then a motherboard to replace/borrow.OK thanks well it was worth a shot ASKING, I was hoping maybe you'd lean more TOWARD one or the other based on the info I provided but I'll try testing the PSU first with a replacement I guess. Quote from: corlenbelspar on December 19, 2010, 07:46:51 PM ...I tried testing the power supply and every light lit up except the +5v LED, which I don't know if that means anything because I don't know how to read a power supply tester precisely....If PSU tester indicates +5V is dead, PSU is dead. Fans run on +12V.I guess I only have to worry about whether my hard drive also got damaged or not now because someone went ahead and ordered me an even better computer than the one I had despite me telling them I needed to think about it first. I'll just find some alternate method to retrieving data off of it if it's not damaged instead of just turning it on.Hard drive is probably OK. You can connect it to the new machine and retrieve all your data.Also, you should spend the money on a good surge protector (not the $19.99 units), and preferably on a good UPS unit. All the UPS made by name brands have excellent surge protection.I have a decent surge protector that everything was plugged in to that has a light on right now saying it's protecting my stuff, I think the problem is, is the plugin isn't grounded or something. Quote from: corlenbelspar on December 22, 2010, 02:50:31 AM I have a decent surge protector that everything was plugged in to that has a light on right now saying it's protecting my stuff, I think the problem is, is the plugin isn't grounded or something.There's just a couple of cheap MOV's in there, indicator light doesn't tell you when they're blown. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varistor A typical surge protector power strip is built using MOVs. A cheapest kind may use just one varistor, from hot (live, active) to neutral. A better protector would contain at least three varistors; one across each of the three pairs of conductors (hot-neutral, hot-ground, neutral-ground). I'll just go ahead and spend some money on a UPS instead of a REGULAR surge protector for added protection.Look for one with the most common battery. The one shown is 12V, 8.0Ah & cost $18.95 The UPS's that look like a power strip have much smaller batteries which are far more expensive to replace. I use a sealed car battery on my main UPS. Of course, it won't fit inside, but it's 75Ah & will keep computer alive even when battery is HALF dead.Thanks for the tip. Here's one: And another Did you try completely unplugging the computer from the wall socket? Some power supplies latch out when the voltage and/or current gets outside a predetermined range and they require a complete disconnection from the mains power to reset. Quote from: FED on December 23, 2010, 05:43:43 PM ...Some power supplies latch out when the voltage and/or current gets outside a predetermined range and they require a complete disconnection from the mains power to reset.Latch out only the +5 rail? |
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| 7398. |
Solve : installing a new hard drive? |
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Answer» I have a WD HD and want to add a second unit. Bought a new WD HD and connected the power cable as well as the data cable (to an installed SATA card). The SATA card was added recently when I upgraded a DVD drive that was SATA. |
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| 7399. |
Solve : Disk recovery software? |
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Answer» Hi Guys, Thanks Computer_Commando. I got a few quotes for data recovery and the cost is not much more that buying software. However, if I can save money that would be great. I'll give spinrite ago....As I said, it might not work on a drive that the BIOS doesn't see. Ask GRC before PURCHASING, because it does cost $89. Spinrite has resurrected several flakey drives for me, but some of the routines can take many, many hours to complete. Since it runs from DOS, not Windows, your machine could be tied up for 24hrs, depending on the SIZE of the drive. |
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| 7400. |
Solve : Whats affecting my gaming?? |
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Answer» PROCESSOR: Intel(R) Core(TM)2 QUAD CPU Q8300 2.50GHz Ram: 8Gb Windows 7 (64-bit) VIDEO card: NVIDIA GeForce G210 ( I think its this)What EXACTLY is wrong with your gaming? |
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