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Alright, so my base problem is that no program that uses DirectX works at all, they don't even start. My computer also seems not to be recognizing my graphics card. This started when a game I installed ("Men of War") decided to install DirectX 9 over my DirectX 10 without asking me, but I'm not sure whether that's a coincidence or not.

Symptoms:

~When I run DXDiag, I am immediately shown an error message reading "Error: Problem getting extra display info"

~In DXDiag, the "Display" tab pretty much has no information in it. Everything is blank or n/a except for "Current Display Info", which reads "1280 x 1024 (32bit) (1Hz)". Also in the Display tab, Direct3D Acceleration reads "Not Available" while DirectDraw and AGP Texture Acceleration remain "Enabled".

~In Device Manager there are two icons under "Display Adapters", both of which have a yellow exclamation mark next to them and claim not to be working. They are both called "NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GX2", which is the graphics card I'm using.

~No online DirectX installs work, though I've used offline installers with no success.


What I've tried:

Pretty much everything I can think of short of buying new hardware/software and reformatting.

~Tried searching the problem online. Very few people have fixed it and posted how, and all those who did have done it differently.

~DirectX installers/uninstallers.

~Clean graphics card driver installs of both old and new drivers.

~Clean boot with non-Microsoft programs disabled.

~Many more that I can't think of off the top of my head.


What I'm planning to do next:

I suspect that the problem is either a corrupted DirectX, in which case I'll be buying Windows 7 and reformatting/upgrading to that, or a broken graphics card, in which case I'll be buying a new card. Problem is my budget only allows for one of those two purchases so if I choose incorrectly I'll have a non-functional computer for maybe another half a year.

I've asked all over the place at stores, at support lines, etc. and right now half the people I talk to think it's a software problem and half think it's a hardware problem, so I have no idea at all which it is. I'm hoping you fine people at this support forum can help me to decide which path to take here, or in best case scenario tell me I'm completely wrong and there's some LESS expensive way to deal with this.If the OS boots with no graphical corruption then the card is fine.

Do you mind me asking...Which OS are you actually using?

DirectX is not 'overwritten' by old installs. Infact, the game requires DX9 libraries, so the game will not function without them.

Are you still able to open the nVidia control panel and disable the SLi on that card? I read a forum post with the HD 4870 X2 that was caused by the drivers not responding to the card due to is already being linked.

I imagine what you meant by a clean install was to boot in safe mode, remove the drivers, reboot into normal mode, shutdown, boot again and install?My OS is Windows Vista Home Edition 32Bit.

There are no visible graphical errors that I've noticed (there used to be the occasional pink/black lines but that was a long time ago and only happened when I was playing older games.)

I can't access the NVIDIA Control Panel. When I try to open it I get the error:

"NVIDIA Display settings are not available. You are currently not using a display attached to a NVIDIA GPU."


I tried two 'clean install' methods for installing new drivers. I tried...

1: Uninstalling the drivers, restarting in safe mode, using "Driver Sweeper" to clean out any remnants of the old driver, restarting again, installing the new drivers then restarting again.

2: The option for a clean install that comes in the NVIDIA drivers' new install wizards.In that case it seems to be a driver issue with your card.

About a month ago, I tried to update my ATi drivers for my HD 4870 card, which resulted in a BSOD, and then being unable to boot into windows at all as the card would no longer be detected, just simply as a sting of numbers and letters (Win 7 32-bit)

Is it possible to install the driver manually?
Follow this guide to try: http://www.ehow.com/how_5963429_force-drivers-vista.html
Also, by selecting properties on either of the cards in device manager, under the driver tab, does it specify who the faulty driver is made by?Yes, under Properties it says "Manufacturer: NVIDIA"



Also, I just noticed that under the Properties of each of the two graphics devices, their Locations are different.

~In the first device's properties it reads "Location: PCI SLOT 1 (PCI bus 5, device 0, function 0)

~The second device reads "Location: PCI Slot 3 (PCI bus 6, device 0, function 0)

I don't know what this means or if it makes a difference, but I didn't notice it until now.

Going to try running through that manual install you sent now, will update this status once it's done.


EDIT: Nope I can't get the manual install to work. When I try to install the standard driver the screen blinks black once then after a few seconds I get the error...


"Windows ENCOUNTERED a problem installing the driver software for your device

Windows found driver software for your device but encountered an error while attempting to install it

Standard VGA Graphics Adapter

This device cannot start. (Code 10)"

Although when I restart the computer after uninstalling the drivers the computer seems to automatically install some kind of built in driver. I had to let it do this because if I restart in safe mode or try that manual install method before restarting there's no driver in the Device Manager list at all, so I can't update drivers for it.

RE-EDIT: Wait, I think I may have made a mistake. Let me try that again.

RE-RE-EDIT: Alright I got the "Standard VGA Graphics Adapter" to install properly by failing to update it once, deleting the remaining 9800 GX2 device and then updating it again, but upon restart the computer automatically attempts to install a second, non-functioning device, then upon a second restart neither driver is functional.

Right now I have two devices, one called "NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GX2" and the other called "Standard VGA Graphics Adapter" and both have errors. Instead of just the Direct3D not available now, DirectDraw and AGP Texture Acceleration are not available either, but I don't get the "Problem getting extra display info" error when I run DXDiag.Ok that's not good.

Can you use system restore to go back to the day you installed the game?

http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/windows-vista/using-windows-vista-system-restore/

This should restore the drivers and restore the way Windows detects your card.

If this does not work, you may have to perform a repair install of your operating system.Nah, if I could I would have done it a long time ago. For some reason whenever I created a restore point it would disappear when I restarted the computer.

Also I have no idea where my Vista disc is, it's pretty much long gone. I'm probably going to have to reformat and upgrade to Windows 7 (ridiculously expensive) but I was going to end up doing that eventually anyway.

You've pretty much answered my question already about whether I should go for the new graphics card of the new OS and actually done more than that, so thanks for your help with this. I'll try to format then install Windows 7 and if that doesn't do it than maybe I'll CONTINUE this thread.If you don't want to fork out for Windows 7 just yet (Though I highly reccommend it over vista) then check with your local computer STORE if they would be willing to sell or rent you an original disk for vista. Of course without a key, as you will have the key on your case somewhere.

You are very welcome and I am sorry it did not work out thus far.

Hey PEOPLE,
                  I have an Intel DD101GGC mobo...
My vendor said(5 YEARS back) that it had 64Mb onboard Gfx...so I had put on an additional 128Mb ATI Radeon X300 series Gfx card...
                   Now, a 2 days back, my Gfx card had some trouble & had to remove it...
But now my PC shows is 446 MB RAM (510MB PREVIOUSLY shown by dxdiag) & display tab shows ATI Radeon EXPRESS 200 series Gfx of 256 Mb memory...!!!
                    I am using Windows XP SP3.
Please help me on this...

thanks,Sorry for posting in d wrong place...You have 512 MB RAM (this is a tiny amount) and 64 MB is being allocated to your onboard graphics leaving 448 MB, 2 MB is being used by something else giving 446 available. Your Display tab shows the maximum amount of SYSTEM RAM (256 MB) that the onboard Radeon chipset could use. You can go into the BIOS and select how much RAM is being used by the onboard video.


Thanks Salmon Trout...

HI. I ve a NEC versa pro VA12J. When i START my laptop it starts with beep sound and shows BIOS screen with an error message: 0251: system CMOS checksum bad- DEFAULT configration used. During this period, my processor fan runs very fast.In BIOS only time and date are incorrect. After changing the time and date when i save the setting it appears a black screen like it is checking drives, but suddenly my laptop goes off. I ve checked my HARD DISK in an other laptop it works there, so what's the problem?Sounds like the CMOS battery needs replaced.....part #CR2032....available anywhere.

When I started my computer and the bios opened, it say "Drive 3 not found". What "Drive 3" ?
Plz help me!

Tanx in advance 1) What is new or different since the LAST time everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?

2) What do you mean "the bios opened"?

3) Go into the bios and see if there are any hd's listed as installed / enabled that are not in your system. Quote from: Allan on January 08, 2011, 12:03:56 PM

1) What is new or different since the last time everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?

2) What do you mean "the bios opened"?

3) Go into the bios and see if there are any hd's listed as installed / enabled that are not in your system.

I have a computer set up with 2 screens and both are flickering.

Does anyone know what might cause this or possible SOLUTIONS? What type of machine or model/brand, OS, VIDEO card and connection being used? More information is needed. Also - did this just start or has it always been this way? Quote from: The Rock on January 07, 2011, 11:48:24 AM

I have a computer set up with 2 screens and both are flickering.

Does anyone know what might cause this or possible solutions?

I have read a lot about people "unlocking cores" and i have no idea what that means!
So i have a few questions
1. What is unlocking cores?
2. Is this safe?
3. Does it improve computer behavior?

If ANYONE could answer any of these it would HELP me a lot thanks =D Unlocking cores is when you activate cores that have been disabled by the manufacture. Most of the time these cores have been disabled because they did not pass testing, so they disable the not to par cores. There USE to be mods to convert Semprons to Athlons ETC by bridging broken traces on the waffer SURFACE, and now this can be done through software.

Answer to question #2 ... you are doing this at your own risk. Sometimes you can get increased performance by unlocking cores that act normal under normal operating conditions.

Ansrew to question #3 ... if successful, yes it will increase performance.

I accidently unplugged my computer. When I powered it back on, it says no signal. I have checked and rechecked all my connections! Any ideas??? Quote from: bgphotoo on January 10, 2011, 07:37:16 AM

I accidently unplugged my computer. When I powered it back on, it says no signal. I have checked and rechecked all my connections! Any ideas???

hello there!!!

need help!

what is the possible problem if my monitor is blinking?

memory or hard DRIVE?

thanks in advance!Check cables first. If a cable is to blame you jiggle it and the picture comes and goes or certain COLORS come and go. If the picture disappears and the power LED on the display is blinking then it does not detect the video signal or the signal is outside the operating synch range. If you have a spare display kicking around, swap displays and see if the problem returns with the other display or if the display on a different computer does the same thing or behaves. Lastly dirty power can affect this, such as a client of mine had where every time his mom ran the microwave in the kitchen his computer would act up. Problem was that the bedroom was an expansion to the home and they decided to tap into kitchen power instead of sending a new feed from the breaker with its own service to that room. So his display ( CRT ) would make a CLICK noise and black out and come back on each time the microwave was turned on because of a low voltage SPIKE from the 1000 watt draw plus WHATEVER else was on that line in his bedroom etc. His solution was getting a UPS to filter and condition the power. Do you have a UPS ( aka battery backup )?

Well, that's it, ATI's support team finally LOST my trust...

I have reported an old problem with my laptop many times without any response, and in a few months the warranty expires so I will talk to the brand about the issue...


ATI seems to ignore this problem:

I got a laptop with a HD4650M 1GB and when i connect it to my Sony HDTV over HDMI, i get the VIDEO with/without audio working as supposed to for about 10 minutes. Then the image becomes messed up, there is only pink and cyan in it

Same thing happens to the desktop PC I got which has the Gigabyte HD5670 card

On both computers the desktop is using extended mode to span across a 17inch LCD Screen + the TV


I was able to connect the TV over DVI using an adapter on the desktop PC, and then the image was working fine
 

Once I borrowed a laptop from a friend which had some Intel based graphics and a HDMI output. It worked as the ATI cards should've - no weird image or such

Both computers uses the latest catalyst & drivers and the issue still exists

And there is no problem with the cable used, it's a 10 meter high quality HDMI cable, Also i tested 3 different HDMI inputs on the TV and they all get the same result

 

So, who can explain this?


And also why can't the DVI output support sound when a DVI->HDMI adapter is used ?
Edit: It might work now that i have installed drivers for the "HDMI Sound" (Untested)
 

Almost forgot to post this, it might or might not help

Laptop Specifications:
Quote

HP DV7 Home Entertainment Notebook PC
AMD Turion x2 2.4GHz
ATI HD4650M 1GB
4GB Ram DDR2 800MHz
Windows 7 Home Premium 64Bit

AMD Atlon II 250 3.0GHz
MSI GF615M-P33 (MS-7597)
Gigabyte HD5670 1GB
4GB Ram DDR3 1333/667 MHz
Windows XP Pro 32Bit SP3

It's still they who made the GPU - so they should be able to give support for it

And also why can't the DVI output support sound when a DVI->HDMI adapter is used ?

Hello All,

It looks like I'm going to have a lot of questions about this.

GA-890GPA-UD3H motherboard and Phenom II X2 555 BE.

Today I unlocked hidden cores on my CPU. On first reboot, the BIOS SHOWED 4 cores, but the computer crashed before loading Windows 7. After many successful and unsuccessful reboots I ended up with cores 0,1, and 3 enabled. Core 2 is disabled because I could not get the machine to boot. During this process, on several successful boots, windows said 'Driver for Phenom II X4 installed.'

What processor do I really have? Is there any way I can tell which model it is, and what the proper voltage and frequency should be?



[recovering disk space - old attachment DELETED by admin]You hacked your cpu? You seriously expect to get an answer to that here? (Apart from "You have the CPU you paid for"?

AMD made the Phenom with 4 cores but it did not pass production testing, so it was sold as a 2 core part. You have managed to unlock a third core. Bravo. You have, I guess, an unofficial Phenom II X3 740 BE. But one that may not be as reliable as one that was marketed as such. You have a hacked cpu.



Hello Salmon Trout,

You sound as it there is something wrong with unlocking cores. Is there some ethical question here?

HarryI did do the Prime95 Torture Test with 3 cores, for about 1.5 hours with no problem. I know that's not long enough. I will test it overnight.

Harry Quote from: Harryh on January 08, 2011, 05:37:06 PM

Hello Salmon Trout,

You sound as it there is something wrong with unlocking cores. Is there some ethical question here?

Harry

they don't take fully functional X4's and simply disable 2 cores and sell them as a cheaper X2.

Hi Guys and Gals, I am putting together a new MOBO and cpu in my old Gateway GM-6588E case and am going to put a ASUS M4A88TD-V EVO/USB3 mobo in it using all 16 GB of ram and a Phenom II X 4 955 in it with a new cooling system.  Do I need to update the power supply to at least 500 watts?  Do the cables come with it or can I use the ones off the old power supply.  I plan on trying overclocking and know it takes more wattage, so what kind of power supply under $50 can I get for an AMD BUILD?  I have 4 HD working on the one I have now that is 300 watts and IDE connection with 4 pin power on one HD.  Can I keep all my drives and wiring harnes?  Just want to make sure when I upgrade I do not have cable issues.
Have you researched PSUs

For example
http://www.ebuyer.com/product/135514

It tells you what cables come with it! In the USA and many areas a 700 watt supply goes for about $65 and is a good INVESTMENT. 
It will give you peace of mind.http://educations.newegg.com/tool/psucalc/index.html

Good evening 

VIA google I found your faqs about my issue. It´s stating that it is indeed possible to connect a lcd display to a desktop computer. I was wondering if there is someone on this forum who can help me, point me in the right direction or something.

My SITUATION:
the Acer Travelmate 291LMi was always a good laptop to have. At one point though a problem occurred. The display started to flicker. I found out that this was a COMMON problem with the laptop. Somewhere on the circuit board the connection to the display has a loose contact. So, when I warmed up the laptop, I could actually use it for quiet another while. When it completly broke down (with bluescreens and all), I bought a desktop PC together with a LG L227WT. Now I want to reuse the old Acer display as a second monitor.
I searched the internet a bit and found out, that it will problably be more complicated than I anticipated.


The Connector is a SXGA 30pol. (p/n DC025070400)  --> large picture (scroll down)

There are 7 cables (as far as I can see) going to the connector.
- 1 green
- 1 yellow
- 1 orange
- 2 brown
- 2 black

Then there is another bundle of tiny red (4) and blue (19, I guess) cables attached to each other also going to the connector.


Can someone make sense out of this? All of the cables seem to small to carry the power for the display (that´s what an electronic store guy said).
The only other cable going out of the display is supposed to be the W-LAN antenna. A black and a white cable ending in two metal plugs.
I would rather make a dvi-adapter, but VGA is alright as well, if it´d be way easier.

I really hope some can help me, since its size is perfect for my desk. PLUS, I really want to try to figure this out.

greetings,
Jelissei

I have a IP4000 Canon Bubble Jet printer. Recently I faced a Service Error 5200, I MANAGED to overcome that by using "Deep Clean", however now the COLOUR don't come out well. I google'd a bit a found out (not too sure about this) that the deep cleaning messed up the colour profiles. I don't know much about printers so CLEAR help would be nice

So I how do I FIX this colour problem? Have you already gone to their support site?
http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/support/consumer/printers_multifunction/pixma_ip_series/pixma_ip4000

Hey there! I'm having a problem with my touchpad. I have a Compaq Presario 2200 laptop running Windows XP. The touchpad is a Synaptics V5.9. I'm not sure what other info WOULD help for this problem.

Everything was working fine, then a few days ago my cat walked over the keyboard. I got her off of it after about 5 seconds, but after that the touchpad and the left/right mouse keys won't work. I've restarted the computer several times and nothing.

I'm able to use the mouse when I plug in a usb one, so it must just be the touchpad that is broken. I'm not sure what the heck could have happened just by having little cat feet on it for a few seconds, but MAYBE someone can help me out.

I'm going to restart in safe mode and see if it works, then check the actual drivers, etc. I'll leave a reply if it gets fixed. THANKS in advance for any help!

 

edit: I tried booting in safe mode, resetting the device, and disable/enabling it. Nothing changed. I've seen some references on other SITES to reinstalling the driver but I'm unsure what to do and don't want to mess anything up. There may be a way to disable the touchpad (sometimes a button above the touchpad) - check your manualThe touchpad drivers will be on the Compaq Driver CD that shipped with the machine...
If you cannot find it travel to Compaq's site enter your model # and DLoad the appropiate drivers and re-install them.  Hi,
I had an issue with my touchpad,
Forum posts were about the drivers,
Other posts were about device settings,
I had no luck, "DEVICE" wasn't even shown - didn't exist
Then someone had suggested a "HARD RESET"
I tried it, SCEPTICALLY,
BUT IT WORKED

Thought I was obligated to share a possible solution,

Good luck everybody
You're sharing a solution to a post from 3 years ago?

These vital files are on a Power Macintosh G3 (about 20 years old) which has no usb PORT.  I've tried to connect the two with an ethernet cross-over cable, with no success. Then I realized this old mac has an internal zip drive with the 100 MB disk still inside! So now I'm able to copy the files, 100 MB at a time, ONTO this zip disk. Any ideas on how I can get them from the zip disk onto a usb flash drive or onto my imac?Not without another ZIP drive, USB or IDE.  The one in the Mac could be IDE or SCSI.  If it's IDE, you can remove and connect it to the DESKTOP PC, if it has an IDE port on the motherboard, some newer motherboards don't have it anymore.
The Mac G3 has USB ports, but don't know if they will recognize USB flash drives.  Here's the G3 specs:  http://support.apple.com/kb/SP133Are you able to connect to the internet with your G3? Probably with a 56k modem? If you can (it will be slow) then could you not transfer your files to a free data STORAGE site (password protected) and then access them with the other computer. truenorthCheck your area for data storage/recovery services and call for pricing on moving the data over to another media...

laptop went DIED after leaving it on CHARGE for long hours.doesn't switch on.only power light is on.pls help.No need to double POST...

TOPIC Closed.

my p3 baycom laptop was left on charge for many hour -i forgot to unplung it when i was going out. i CAME BACK to switch it on but it does not show any sign of power. meanwhile the charging light is always blinking showing there is power. somebody help.Does it boot with power plugged in?NOTHING is happening. the lappee is died. the only thing U SEE is power light.The fact that it was left plugged in all night should not have any bearing on anything. Just sounds coincidental to the issue at hand.

Hi everyone,

My computer is in dire need of surgery here. Upon turning on my computer a few WEEKS ago, my monitor displayed a NO SIGNAL MESSAGE. My computer was up and running. Everything's on - fans, PSU, video card, and hard drive. I get no boot MESSAGES, nothing. I've reset my CMOS and I've lent the video card to my assistant manager to see if it works on his computer (and it does, it works fine he says). I've tried disconnecting everything that isn't required to boot up, and I've tried RESEATING my RAM sticks. Nothing is working and I don't know what the problem is. Is there anything that you guys can please suggest to help me out? I really don't feel like paying someone $100 or more just to put my hardware into another system to find out which one is broken.

And, before it's asked, my motherboard doesn't have on-board video. And I don't have any other video cards that fit my slot. Quote

I've lent the video card to my assistant manager to see if it works on his computer (and it does, it works fine he says).

And this happened one day after installing Win7 64bit.

Can anyone tell how to get data from a net book computer when you can't REMOVE the the drive. With either windows 7 or vista. OjasIs there any problem with your net book? Basically, what you can do to get a data from your net book without removing your drive is to copy & paste it in USB Flash Drives or any USB External Hard Drive. Quote from: geek hoodlum on JANUARY 10, 2011, 12:09:58 AM

Is there any problem with your net book? Basically, what you can do to get a data from your net book without removing your drive is to copy & paste it in USB Flash Drives or any USB External Hard Drive.

connect a netbook as a USB drive? Really? (I know, I know)

It is possible, if you have the right equipment

I recently got some DDR RAM as a gift for my gaming unit.  Thing is that when I put it in the Dimm it beeps like there isn't any when it has 1 GB.  I tried the memory in another unit an works fine.  Its the same as the other with the exception of size.  Ultra DDR PC 3200 512 MB, Intel SE7210TP1-E Sever Board.  Not sure if it has too be in pairs or not.  I also tried it in the other slots as well as TAKING out the 1 GB an just Turing the 512 MB.From your description i am NOT certain if you have tried the following so i shall ask the question. Have you tried the single ram (the 1gb) stick in any of the available ram slots by itself? If so what was the result ? Yes there are instances when the ram sticks will not function if they are not installed in pairs. So the fact that you have the old  512 and the new 1 gb in together COULD be the basis of your issue. Also some instances of installing RAM of different brands can also create your issue. As i reread your post i am now not sure whether it is the 1 gb that is new or is it the 512? truenorthIf it works with 1 512 then the machine does not require it to be installed in pairs ...so that's not the issue.

Most LIKELY a case of mis-matched RAM...I have tried the 1 GB an that is what I have been useing.  Some games require a lot of extra files that I added an seemed like it needed
too take the strain off the CPU.  I never said the 512 was old I just got it.    There the same brand an EVERYTHING except for the capity.
Considering the board I dont know or not since I have four Dimms.
OK...you lost me....Me Too ,truenorthi am simply adding the 512 so that the cpu doesnt have too be strained when loading things such as my sims 2 stuff.OK i think i have the picture now. The 1 gb was what was originally in the computer. You believe that you needed to increase your RAM capacity so you installed a 512 MB additional stick. Correct? Now the question is when you "tried" the 512 by itself--did it work? If not then assuming you are correct when you say it is the same in all regards other than it's "capacity" you have a defective 512 RAM stick. truenorth
P.S. Although if it has not been verified i suppose it is also possible that the slot you are trying to use for the 512 could be defective however that is easily verifiable by moving the 1 gb stick to it and seeing whether it works or not.Yes, too allow this unit to process faster.  No, which I don't get really why.  That's partially what I was thinking then as I had previously
stated it works in another unit seemly just fine.  Probably should run the mem test?  I tried two different dimm slots though.  Your replies are vague and making assistance very difficult. As an example what is it your answering with this " No, which I don't get really why." ? Is that in reference to yes you did try the 512 by itself and it did NOT work and you "don't know why". But apparently when you move it to another computer it DOES work fine. Which points to a mismatch with the ram sticks if you have eliminated the possibility that the RAM slots are defective.truenorth Quote from: truenorth on January 01, 2011, 08:16:10 AM

Your replies are vague and making assistance very difficult.

Only if you value your sanity.

Hello,

Just a couple quick questions.

I found a laptop that I may buy as a project (and for my own use if it works).
The guy tried to flash the BIOS to a new version and it failed.  I advised him not to flash the BIOS since it's risky business (he agreed pretty easily on that one).  He doesn't know how to fix it and doesn't want the time nor money spent, so he's selling it.

As for my question, for the older S1 socket, I saw something like S1g1 and S1g2.  Is there a difference?  More importantly, one I should be AWARE of?

The laptop is an Acer Aspire 5101AWLMi, and from what I Googled (thank god for GOOGLE), I should be able to flash the BIOS and get it running.  If so, could I replace the CPU with a CPU S1g2 socket?  I'm not sure if I will or not (I'll be using a Linux distro, most likely the same distro I'm using to type this).  The 2.0GHz CPU that's in there might be fine, but I kind of like the extra power and it's not going to break the bank to do it.

Thanks. Code: [Select]As for my question, for the older S1 socket, I saw something like S1g1 and S1g2.  Is there a difference?  More importantly, one I should be aware of?The newer CPU has more pins.So far, what I've seen, the S1g1 socket and S1g2 socket have the same number of pins, but different configuration.

Would a Turion 64 X2 TL-56 be COMPATIBLE, it's an S1 socket (the one in it now is a Turion 64 MK-36, which on the page below says it's an S1 socket)?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_AMD_Turion_microprocessors

Now obviously, Wikipedia isn't the %100 reliable source, but on that page, it specifically states the sockets ("S1g1", "S1", "S1G2", ETC.), so in my mind, the CPU's that it says S1 are the same socket.  Am I right to assume that?http://forums.amd.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=34&threadid=119960
Says do not put the new CPU inn to older socket. Quote from: trevorpe on January 10, 2011, 02:54:21 PM

...
1.  The guy tried to flash the BIOS to a new version and it failed.
2.  He doesn't know how to fix it and doesn't want the time nor money spent, so he's selling it.
3.   I should be able to flash the BIOS and get it running. ...

There's this orange light on inside my computer as soon as i put the power cable in the back of my pc. I don't know what to do.

Is the power cable plug in to the outlet or not while connecting it to the pc? If it's not plug, does the orange light stays on?

yeah it still stays on for like 20 seconds

While connecting the power cable at the back of the pc with the plug already connected to the outlet or not?

I also took out my video and my graphics driver cables.

Do you have another monitor that you can try?

Do you see the Dell screen when you switch the computer on?

Do you have another video card that you can try?

Do you see the Dell screen when you switch the computer on?

Do you have another video card that you can try?

The light goes orange as soon as i hit the power button

The light comes on when i plug it in the outlet

yeah it still stays on for like 20 seconds

As for the graphics card, im not sure where mine is located

Orange blinking? Please replace a fresh/new battery for it might got drained or weaked...Some computer models(desktop) has this power entry as soon as you plug your cord to the outlet. Just like mine one here(Dell desktop).If it stays for 20 seconds after just plugging the power cord to the outlet(as mentioned above about certain desktops) without yet pressing the power button, then you might want to flush the power stored(CPU unplugged) by pressing the power button for 20 to 30 secs. before powering on and a replacement of a new nickel battery. If there were no added internal devices on your CPU model, according to your Manual specifications, Dell I 530s A, It's an onboard graphics. You could also try using another monitor together with these suggestions. Certain solutions can be found on your BIOS settings. However, I will anticipate that you can't, because of these issues so you need to work around these suggestions/suggested on the thread before going for other steps...

I bought a digial photo viewer keyring. The problem is when i try putting the disc in to install the SOFTWARE, it just won't install. I have tried RIGHT clicking explore drive but i just get the egg timer and after awhile it reports that it is not responding. On the disc it says Driver installation Disk for ODPP300 series, but i cannot find anything online refering to this.What is the exact error message you're GETTING?
Your version of Windows?
Have you tried the CD in another computer/another disc drive?Yes other cdroms work in the drive. The computer just hangs when i right click to explore the DVD drive and shows the egg timer. I use: Windows XP Home Edition. Also its one of them mini disks if that makes a difference.I would try the CD on another machine...if it reads properly copy the data to a flash drive...it appears your DVD drive does not like the mini discs and i've seen this before...
If that does not work visit the Manuf. website and DLoad the drivers.Thanks for the replys but i canot find the mauf website. it says RoHS on the side of the box and on the installation disk it says driver for ODPP300 - series, but i cannot find it anywhere. Does anyone know of any link to this driver?

Is there a BIG difference in a nvidea fx 5200 and a nvidea 6200 as far as gaming performance?A simple SEARCH on Goggle and I found these (first result):

http://www.nvidia.com/page/fx_5200.html
http://www.nvidia.com/page/geforce6200_agp.html

According to the SPECS, the 6200 is slightly better than 5200.I did a little INVESTIGATING and found some of the 6200s have 256mb and others have 512mb. Some have a core clock speed of 300 MHz and others have 350MHz. so there is a pretty big difference in the same card. 

It should be a little faster, but hardly worth spending any money on it IMHO The 6200, as long as you don't get the TurboCache or LE versions, is a better card than the FX5200, without doubt.
Not only is the performance better, but it supports more recent technologies such as Shader Model 3.0 vs 2.0 on the FX LINEUP.

This is a continutation of another of my threads. Thought I'd make a new one because the problem has changed since the original thread and it'll just be alot LESS confusing.

Here is the sytstem I've just built.

- Thermaltake ToughPower 500W Modular Power Supply
- Intel Core 2 Duo E2200 "LGA775 Conroe" 2.20GHz
- Samsung SH-S203D 20x DVD±RW SATA Dual Layer ReWriter
- GIGABYTE GA-73PVM-S2H GeForce 7100 Micro-ATX (Socket 775) PCI-Express DDR2 Motherboard
- Samsung SpinPoint T 500GB SATA-II 16MB Cache
- OCZ 2GB (2x1GB) PC2-6400C4 Dual Channel Platinum Revision 2 XTC Series DDR2

When I boot up the computer and start to install Windows XP it gets to the first part where it says 'Setup is loading files' and after that it says 'Setup is loading Windows' and then the screen goes blue and I get that message that tells you the computer has been shut down to prevent damage. The error code is - 0x0000007b (0xf78d2524, 0xc0000034, 0x00000000, 0x00000000
The error code may not have been the same, but I had something very similar to this happen with my last build. The difference being that the crashes would come at random times, but mostly during gaming. In this case the crash comes at exactly the same part each time, just as 'Setup is loading Windows'. With my last build the problem was my MSI motherboard didn't like running my GeIL RAM in dual channel. Obviously with this in mind my first thought was to try each stick of RAM, one at a time. Unfortunately no luck, although the first time I did it the error code did change slightly - 0x0000007b (0xf79e3524, 0xc0000034, 0x00000000, 0x00000000

I've tried running a scan on my HARD drive and no errors were found. I also ran memtest through twice and again no errors were found. I've also, of course, looked inside my PC to check all connections are in firmly and nothing has come loose.

Really stumped as to what could be the problem. Anyone have any ideas?Here is the Microsoft support PAGE for that error.
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/324103

It could look like a hdd related issue.

What did you use to scan your hdd for errors?
Is the hdd clean? I.e. is it newly formatted?

The problem might also be you need drivers for the SATA controller.
There should be some available from Gigabyte.
You will need a floppy drive to load them.
This guide is for a Toshiba laptop, but it explains the procedure pretty well.
http://www.csd.toshiba.com/cgi-bin/tais/su/su_sc_dtlView.jsp?soid=1192841
[SIZE="7"]UPDATE![/SIZE]

UPDATE

Okay so I thought I'd try my IDE DVDRW in the new build incase it was the SATA DVDRW causing the problem and I got past the crash screen! However as it moves on to the next part of the setup it stops and says,

'Setup did not find any hard DISKS installed on your computer' then tells me to check that it's connected properly and suggests I install any hard disk related drivers.

So, for some reason it's just not detecting that my hard drive is connected. I'm hoping that buying a floppy drive and installing the SATA RAID drivers will solve this (although apparently SP2 (which is on my XP install) does include the required SATA RAID drivers), or perhaps updating the bios.

Thoughts?I'm pretty sure a floppy drive and the correct SATA driver will solve your missing hard drive problem.

My mother is a really pc illerate the thing is I dont know how long she leaves the monitor on for.  Its an LCD an I know that after a while they will burn the image of what ever on the monitor its self.  How long does it take till that happens.  Where you'll see stuff like that.LCD monitors won't burn out, only older CRTs.Plasma screens too...
But no, not LCDs as FAR as I know.

Still, configure Windows to turn off the monitor after X minutes... that's easier on the electrical bill and better for the environment. I believe newer plasma screens won't burn in an image -- I heard a tech expert on Chicago radio say this; however, I'm only posting to alert us that the
change is fairly new -- there is really no reason to leave on any monitor when it is unattended or not being used.  The Energy STAR settings that accompany the screen SAVER settings are most useful for this.Sorry its a CRT, I just refer to them as monitors but that what it is sorry for the mix up.No worries -- SINCE it is  a CRT, it's probably not so old that it will "burn" an image, but it consumes a LOT of power, so as Deerpark suggested, just from that standpoint, it's good to have it turn off itself when not in use. Quote

it's probably not so old that it will "burn" an image

Ok so I got a 22" WIDESCREEN monitor and a radeon graphics card. The monitor is VGA connection and the card has the usual choice of VGA or DVI, so naturally I plugged it into the VGA.

I then got a 2nd monitor, 17" this time, and placed it above the other one. This one had both DVI and VGA outputs, so I used some common sense and since I had a DVI port spare on the graphics card I went for the DVI connection.

Here's where the problems begin. I boot up and the 17" (DVI) is detected as monitor 1. So I did the whole "display properties>settings>monitor 2> extend my windows desktop onto this monitor" thing, and hoped that I'd be able to also tick the box which says "Use this device as my primary Monitor". But it is greyed out so I can't. Also looked in the CCC and can't find an option in there either.

Any clues anyone? Only solution I can think of is to connect the 17" to the VGA, and then connect the 22" to the DVI via use of a DVI/VGA adaptor. Hoping there's another way though cos I spent £25 on a DVI cable and I don't want it to go to waste.


Any help much appreciated. CHEERS!Are you pressing the apply button after you check the "extend my windows desktop onto this monitor" box?Yep. I'm doing everything I should be. Even installed the Ultramon application hoping this might let me do this.

Well I have just ordered a DVI-VGA adaptor off ebay so if all else fails I'll just swap them over so the big one is plugged inthe the DVI, since that seems to be the socket that takes preference.Well Good luck then  With all of this typing we still don't know what vid card is involved here...
Details are important.you said you had a radeon card?

try this nifty tool from Ray Adams, called ATi Tray Tools, basically its a replacement for CCC and uses less resources and gives more settings then CCC.

However some caution must be taken with it, if you don't know what you are doing with overclocking i SUGGEST u tick the disable overclocking in the setup menu.

Anyways get the tool from here > http://www.guru3d.com/article/atitraytools/189/

Once you have it installed right CLICK the tray icon and under display, click settings.
Then click on/off for both of them, and click apply and check to see whether you can run both in "clone" mode.
If that is successful, TURN off the one u want to extend into, click apply
then right click your tray icon again, and this time under display select extended desktop and viola it should keep your primary and add the other as an extended

Goodluck!
Kurtis

Hi,

I have been having the following problem with my PC since yesterday.

The problem is it gave me the error with the following message "A disk error occured. press ctrl + alt + del. The background of the screen was black (you know, it's just like in the command prompt. Strangely, it was working really well. I was working on some word documents, surfing the net until i left for lunch. When i came back, i saw a black screen with that error message on it.

Anyway, i managed to re-format the whole HARD drive - not a quick format but a normal format. After installing windows, i went to install all the drivers needed e.g. Lan connection driver, sounds, and so on. It was in the middle of installing some drivers where it went hang. So i had to turn it off by force.

Next, i re-started the PC. It took a while (unusual one - probably 1 minute) to load up windows. The windows was successfully loaded but i'm worried about the time it takes to get it loaded up. It's as if it was frozen or something. but if you wait a bit longer, then you see the windows logo POP up.

My question is whether this is to do with other PARTS of the computer or i need to get another hard disk that causes a delay in starting up the windows.

However, it seems all right once Windows is up (don't know if it'd go hang again in the future but so far so good).

Thank you in advance



  Your hdd is probably about to fail, ensure your critical files have been backed up.

Put your error message into Google for lots of similar occurrences and suggestions, run disk diagnostics from the manufacturer's site.

Good luckhave you TRIED to check the bios of your computer,some bios can be changed to fastboot so it will boot up faster.. Quote from: clark_styx on April 04, 2008, 05:30:20 AM

have you tried to check the bios of your computer,some bios can be changed to fastboot so it will boot up faster..

Can anyone tell me the Band Width and Data TRANSFER speed of  PCI Express 1 X and  PCI Express 16 Xhttp://www.directron.com/expressguide.html

Hello forums!

I hope that you would be so kind as to give me some advice on fixing my DVD-RW drive. I'll try to be as descriptive as possible.

Symptoms: Will not recognize blank DVDs. Will not switch to DMA mode and stays only in PIO.

Clues: Will READ discs with data already on them. DVD Movies play very slowly. (Though most LIKELY from the PIO mode) The drive used to be Ultra-DMA but one day when my movies started playing slowly I checked and it (suddenly) became PIO. At one point I got it to go back to DMA but it went right back to PIO.

Specs: The drives jumpers are currently set to Master. It is (now) using the middle/lower connector of the IDE cable.
My computer is SATA compatible, but I am only using IDE. My computer lists 3 Primary IDE channels and 3 Secondary IDE channels, with the disc drive occupying the Master slot of the last Secondary IDE Channel.

HL-DT-ST DVDRRW GWA-4164B seems to be the name/brand/etc of the drive.

eMachines W3400
AMD Athlon 64 3000+ ~2000 Mhz

Windows XP SP2
1 Gig of RAM
ATI Radeon XPress 200

Motherboard is an MSI-ATI.

*EDIT* Forgot to MENTION I have Phoenix AWARD Bios. Also, I have uninstalled, reinstalled, and searched for new drivers; TO no avail.

I'll post any other information you need.


P.S. I looked through a few pages of threads but I didn't see ANYTHING too similar. I apologize if this thread has been asked a MILLION times.The drive if jumpered as master should be connected to the END IDE connector of the secondary IDE channel for now.
After hooking it up this way travel to Device Manager and locate the Secondary IDE channel...right click it and select Remove/Uninstall.
You will recieve a warning message...ignore it and re-boot.
The drive should now work normally.
To double-check go back to Device Manager and make sure the secondary channel is set to UDMA if available or DMA...

P.S. No apology neccessary and Welcome to CH !

I have a hp pavilion ze 4400 LAPTOP with a broken hard drive. Is there anyway to use a standard hard drive or a USB thumb drive to get it to work temporarily? I am going on a trip and just want it so I can watch dvds on it. I don't want to invest any money in it right now because I have absolutely no use for it when I get back. Is there an adapter that I can get to use a standard ata hard drive? I realize the old hard drive won't fit inside it.

It has a working dvd rom, and I have an old 10 gig hard drive, and a usb 2gig thumb drive and a copy of windows xp hp home to work with as well.

Thanks for any help.

No.If I start looking for a used hard drive what should I look for? Should I just get a 2.5 inch ata laptop hd? I don't have the laptop yet but are all the older hard drives pretty mush the same? I know for a fact that it is not a SATA drive.

Also on the hp WEBSITE it said it is a 9.5mm hard drive is that the same as a 2.5 inch hard drive?

Thanks for any more help. I'd never buy a used HDD for any reason and that machine will work fine with any 2.5" ATA HDD up to 40G capacity.

Ok so I check my system properties and realised I had a pitiful 224mb of RAM (a very random amount I know). So I decided to invest in a couple of 1gb sticks. They came, I inserted, and EXPECTED to check system properties again and see 2gb installed. But for some reason it only says 992 MB.

Guessing I may need tpo give more info but I'm hoping theres a quick easy answer.

I did notice that the stick I removed only had chips along one side, whereas the 2 I just bought have chips on both sides. Does this mean I bought the wrong type? I know it takes DDR and think it supports a max of 2gb in total, but are there any other specs which affect it? For example I'm noticing different "mHz" ratings on different RAM.

Any help much appreciated, and in the mean time I'll try and GET morre info1 stick is not being reported...how is it reported in the BIOS on your startup screen ? ?
Is this RAM from eBay or new ? ?
If you have 4 slots you may need to go in slots 1 and 3 or 2 and 4 depending on your MBoard...I got it off ebay from fastmemoryman, who I since found out is a complete CROOK so I'm surprised it turned up at all.

And no my motherboard only has 2 slots. Think I'll try each stick individually and hoping that will show that one stick ain't workingDLoad and run MemTest on each stick to see if in fact they are healthy...off the TOP of my head i would say he sold you 2 512 sticks and kept the profits...

My PC is a Dell Dimension 3000. It recently started prompting me, before Windows XP started to "hit F1 to continue or F2 to enter Setup" Before that it said that "primary HARD drive not found". Now, I did all the F2 stuff to no avail, however, pressing the F1 key booted XP and I was on my marry way. This became annoying after awhile so I asked Microsoft what gives? They suggested I do a Disc screen and that would most likely fix the problem. This I did. Guess what? The PC would not boot under any circumstances. Not even starting with the CD/ROM drive. Microsoft, after hearing the not so good news from me, called Dell to see what happened? We all had a nice conference call and the end result from Dell was, "your Hard Drive is corrupt, you need a new one"... you didn't think that they would shoulder any of the blame did you? So, naturally I was a little short in what I had backed up which is why I am writing this NARRATIVE. Obviously there are things on the HD that I need! And can't get! I purchased a new 500GB and installed but I really believe that the old HD is not corrupt just a little something else that inhibits the thing from booting. What do you think? Please, I am SURE you must have questions so please feel free to send them. I will do my best to reply with more information. ThanksYou can try hooking it up jumpered as a slave drive and see if the data can be seen...if so copy and burn what you can ASAP as if the drive is failing you may not get a 2nd opportunity...

I just got a computer and the check list that came with it says the type of Motherboard inside and things LIKE that.

I just have some Q/As on how to read this if anyone can help??

The Motherboard it has says it's an ASUS P5GZ-MX 945 GZ.
First off I THINK they ment to say GHZ not just GZ

And does this meen the front/side Bus is 945,000,000,000 Hz?

And when I downloaded the Motherboard menuale  it says the fron/ side bus can go up to 1066 MHz  so does that meen 1,066,000,000 Hz

That still if not 945 GHz what am I not getting??It is just part of the model # and has to to do with what chip set it has in it  http://www.outletpc.com/c3612.htmlBtw. according to Asus the board has an 800 MHz FSB.
http://asus.com/products.aspx?l1=3&l2=11&l3=348&l4=0&model=1374&modelmenu=2Nice Catch Deerpark...i didn't think it went to 1066.

Hi This is my first post here. I SEARCHED first and didn't find ANYTHING, so I hope I'm not repeating. Anyway...
I just bought a Dell Inspiron because my 5-year-old Gateway crashed. I was able to save the hard drive from the old computer and have it in an enclosure and hooked to the new one through a USB. I know nothing about partitioning, so I haven't done anything other than plug the old drive in.
OK, my question concerns getting my saved email messages and address books from the old drive. I have two email accounts and two different email programs: Outlook and Outlook Express. The old drive (the new external drive) appears to be working fine and I am able to access my documents and other files (thank God!) but I'm just wondering about email.
Thanks y'allWelcome THOM...

You should be able to Import both Outlook and Outlook Express info including old emails...
By all means don't do anything to change the drive.
Be patient and Soybean or one of our other Outlook EXPERTS will be along shortly with instructions...

New hard drive installed w/ winxp sp2.

I have TDK CDRW241040B w/ UPDATED FIRMWARE. It is installed alone (as TDK advises) on the 2ND IDE. it will play an audio cd but will not see a data disk nor, obviously, copy to it. The same issue as when it is a slave on 1st IDE or slave on 2 IDE. A hard drive will run on the 2nd IDE. I have tried several connector cables.

When i set it up w/ my USB enclosure, EVERYTHING works!! i can play audio, read data disks, install prog, copy and erase.

i have done all the troubleshooting in the world (MS site articles, registry CHANGES, troubleshooting sites like these).

i had the same problem before i installed the new HDDdid you set the jumper on the CDRW correctly? Quote from: homer on April 01, 2008, 09:06:03 PM

did you set the jumper on the CDRW correctly?

I just put everything together and when I start it up all fans are working but I don't get anything on the monitor and there are no lights on the mouse or keyboard. I have UNPLUGGED everything but the basics. I don't get any beeps but I don't think I have onboard sound. I have TRIED reseating everything and I don't know what the problem could be. Any ideas?

My system:
MOBO: Asus M2n-SLI Deluxe
GRAPHICS: EVGA eGe-Force 9600 GT
PROCESSOR: AMD Athlon 64 X2
MEMORY: 2 2 GB A-Data DDR2 800
HARD DRIVE: 120 GB Seagate SATA
triple check all your motherboard connections. did you plug in the CPU power? if your PSU has a 20+4 pin main motherboard power connector, did you remember to plug in the +4? refer to the motherboard manual for correct wiring.

Quote

I don't get any beeps but I don't think I have onboard sound.

My Motherboard has a High Definition Audio CHIP  192 kHz at 24 Bit

 My Q/A is I qwality Sound is 44.1 kHz at 16 Bit or EVEN 48 kHz at 16 Bit

My Motherboards High Definition chip says it's 192 kHz  that is Lower then  44.1 kHz or 48 kHz RIGHT??

Please help and explaneI don't understand your question.
But 192 KHz is a higher number than 48 KHz...
If I have your statement/question CORRECT, the on-board sound should be capable of handling your sound at 44.1 khz, or the 48 khz at 16 bit -- as far as I know. 

We do indeed want to clarify your question, though.

I have been battling a strange problem with my PC. It shut down one day and upon restart stated that it was caused by a thermal event. I pulled it apart and found the heatsink dusty but not horrible. I cleaned everything up and still had the same problem. Before CHANGING the processor, an Intel SL6S5 3.06Ghz P4, I bought a new heatsink and a BIGGER fan and installed it. It worked for about a week and then quit again. I decided to change the processor, it worked a few days and then quit yet again. I then bought an identical motherboard with another processor and installed that. It worked for about 3 weeks and now it quit again, always giving me the thermal error! I am baffled! I apologize for the long intro but here is my real question. My PC is using SCSI RAID and I am not having much luck finding an upgrade motherboard that supports SCSI Raid. Can I pop a motherboard in there that has SATA Raid and make my hard drives work? I really need the stuff that is on those hard drives!! SORRY for the book I wrote, I hope someone can help!

Frustratedare you applying thermal compound every time you replace/remove the CPU heatsink?Yes, of course. The last motherboard and CPU I bought was already assembled so I left it alone. The funny thing is, NOTHING feels even remotely warm!!Are you sure the CPU header connection for the fan is on the right pins ? ?
Double check the MBoard documentation.
A SCSI/PCI card will work with almost any board...

Hey guys. Just build my sister a new PC.. here are the specs..

- Antec NSK 4480 Mini Tower Case (Silver) - 380W Earth Watts PSU
- Intel Core 2 Duo E2200 "LGA775 Conroe" 2.20GHz
- Samsung SH-S203D 20x DVD±RW SATA Dual Layer ReWriter
- Gigabyte GA-73PVM-S2H GeForce 7100 Micro-ATX (Socket 775) PCI-Express DDR2 Motherboard
- Samsung SpinPoint T 500GB SATA-II 16MB Cache
- OCZ 2GB (2x1GB) PC2-6400C4 Dual Channel Platinum Revision 2 XTC Series DDR2

I'm no PC expert by any means, but I have built a PC (mine before), and other than incompatible RAM to begin with, I had no problems.

So the build went well and I booted the PC up and everything seemed to be fine. I put Windows XP in to install and setup began, but during the part where it checks your configuration at the start I got a blue screen (the 'Windows has been shut down to prevent DAMAGE to your computer one) and so I reset the PC but now it just hangs on the 'VERIFYING DMI Pool Data' screen.

 I've tried a few things,

- Checked everything is connected properly and securely
- Tried each stick of RAM on it's own... everytime I changed the RAM around the 'Verifying DMI Pool Data' screen updates to 'Verifying DMI Pool Data ........... update success!' and then it just continues to hang
- Resetting to optimized defaults/fail safe in the BIOS, and also resetting the CMOS
None of this fixed the problem though.
Next I put the hard DRIVE from my  computer in to the new build and, sure enough, it booted up in to Windows XP first time. So I now know that, for some reason, I can't get past the DMI Pool Data screen because of the new hard drive.

However, another problem seems to have arisen. With the hard drive from my PC plugged in to this new one I can get to the desktop, sure, but after about 3 seconds the computer just resets. No error messages or blue screens, it just resets. Every time. I'm hoping that's just because of the hard drive's settings and drivers all confliction with the new computer's components though?
Finally I tried putting the new hard drive in to my existing PC and, as I was hoping, I got the ''Verifying DMI Pool Data' error! So, it's the new hard drive then I guess? Not sure why it got past the DMI Pool Data stage the first time I turned it on, but whatever.

Unfortunately I don't have an EMPTY hard drive (or one I can empty) to test in the new computer.
So any other suggestions, or is my new hard drive just faulty and in need of a replacement?
Thanks.
Hi, when you turn the computer on does the hard drive come up on the Ide devises list?
also make sure that its set to primary MASTER to.It does yeah. Tried setting it to master too but with no luck. I would run the diagnostics on the CD that shipped with the drive...if you didn't get one they can be DLoaded from the drive manuf. site.Unfortunately I can't get in to Windows to run anything from a CD.. Quote from: toodlesoodles on April 04, 2008, 06:05:28 PM

Unfortunately I can't get in to Windows to run anything from a CD..

What is a good brand of power supply unit?

I have seen several, Logisys, Thermaltake, Enermax to name a few.

Money is an issue. 

ThanksHow many watts ?
How many dollars ?I suppose in the 500 - 600 watt range.

Maybe $30.00 - $50.00.

I have seen these brands new, on eBay for this dollar amount.

Of course the Logisys was cheaper than that.

I just want something reliable.

Thanksyou will not find any reliable brand name brand PSU's 500-600W for $50. however, if you do find a deal on ebay, look for corsair, OCZ, or thermaltake. the cheapest brand PSU i would get would be earthwatts, antec's brand of PSU's. there is nothing special about them but apparently they are QUITE reliable.

personally, i would get a corsair, but they do tend to be a bit on the more expensive side.Thanks, there seems to be several Thermaltakes on eBay.Try MicroCenter's online store...
They have the OCZ StealthStream 500W on sale this month for $50 BUCKS...reliable and quiet.
I have used these in the PAST 3 builds i've done and grabbed a SPARE one for inventory...

I have windows vista operating program on my dell INSPIRON 6400, i'm not sure what the other things on the list mean or how to find them out  My DVD RW starts to read a disc sounding like normal until it suddenly SEEMS to have DIFFICULTY reading the disc, and starts making grunting noises, so the computer doesn't recognise that there is a disk in the E drive. I thought that it may be due to a VIRUS- checked and the computer was clean, i thought it may be something to do with the program that i was using to play the info on the disc with (windows media player and media direct- both of which came with the laptop) so i downloaded  VLC player on a FRIENDS hint, which didn't work either. IS my DVD RW broken/ not properly compatible with vista...... any suggestions from people will be gratefully accepted. Thank you

Stopped working all of a sudden.
It will not RUN any cd's or DVD's.
MAKES a ticking sound as if it is trying, but nothing happens.
CD or DVD is not acknowledged under My Computer.

Have searched forums for answers and found out that this is a known issue with this hardware, but unfortunately my warranty has expired.

I need to install the software for new hardware (MODEM).

Does anyone know if there is a WAY i can do this immediately (maybe setting up some sort of network with another comp) or something.

I will buy a new one soon but i need to install this modem immediately.

Any ideas welcome. Thank you.Put the modem drivers on a flash drive and install them from there...

Hello everyone

I have a serious problem with my laptop at the moment.

Bluntly it won't start properly lights on but no diskdrive light flashing or screen output

I decided it was TIME for a spyware check so started an AOL spyware scan and left it for about 2 hours closed (screen down). After returning to it the lights were on but the screen will not show anything after trying most of the buttons I tryed restarting only to find it unable to boot  properly the light on the keyboard will show but nothing is responsive.

also unable to get to SAFE MODE

On power button it boots up I can hear the sound of it booting up then suddenly it stops and dies down...but with lights still on with no screen output

If anyone could help me with this matter I would be very gratefull

~systemClosing the display can sometimes PUT a system in standby mode.

But it SOUNDS like you have a larger issue. I'd download and burn to CD a copy of Knoppix Linux Live CD ISO from www.linux.org ( distributions listing ) and see if your laptop will boot off of that bootable CD. If it boots off of that CD, then the motherboard, cpu, and Ram are fine and its likely a problem with your hard drive. If no boot from bootable CD than you have a hardware failure.

If you have dial up or dont know how to create a bootable CD, you can try a Windows OS CD and boot off of that, if no boot, your laptop is likely in pretty rough shape.

Also verify that the boot order in the bios is set to CD before HD and not HD before CD otherwise it wont boot from the CD.

If this laptop has a floppy drive you could try booting off of a bootable floppy. I am guessing this laptop is new enough to not have a floppy drive. Quote from: system01 on APRIL 01, 2008, 12:15:35 PM

I decided it was time for a spyware check so started an AOL spyware scan and left it for about 2 hours closed (screen down). After returning to it the lights were on but the screen will not show anything after trying most of the buttons I tryed restarting only to find it unable to boot  properly the light on the keyboard will show but nothing is responsive.

I just built a New Computer, I am using almost all new parts.
Power SUPPLY is 2 months old 500 watt Ultra Xconnect (only 20 pin MB Connector)
The Motherboard is Gigabyte am2.

I have it all together When I power up my case and CPU FANS spin about 1/4 turn and the WHOLE thing goes dead, then nothing happens when I PUSH the power button. If I unplug the power cord from the power supply for a 10 count then PLUG back in hit the power button it does the 1/4 turn again and goes dead.

Any Help would be appriciated
ThanksIt was the power supply

Hey guys, i was wondering if you could help me here.

Ive got a very long house, so my wireless doesnt reach by myroom so i brought something to "bounce" the wireless range from my router to my bedroom therefore extending the range. Im sure you guys know what it is but i forget the exact name.

Ive set it up and it has been placed only a few METERS from my bedroom in the hallway. When i go to click on it in the wireless network window it says it has full bars so im definatly within range but when i click on it is says "little or no connectivity".

Do you have any ideas as to why this is doing this? I dont want to have to call up a £4 per second phone line!

thanks guys. limitted or no connectivity from my EXPERIENCE means that something is messed up with your wireless settings, like your security settings don't match up.You may have to run your setup software on the host computer to add a device. You probably will have to know the encryption key and/or the security code such as wep. The EXTENDER may need  a passphrase or password.

I ended up just installing a CAT5 cable from my router to the ethernet plug on the back of my pc. You can a PRETTY long cat5 cable with very little signal loss.
Good luck.

I recently slapped TOGETHER a COMPUTER for my kids with a bunch of used parts from here and there. I installed a pci-e video card,and it works,but I don't know where to find drivers for it. It has a part # of 8964'but I don't see a brand name on it.Any IDEAS how to find out?TRY Everest: http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.html

i need some good RAM that will overclock  any  suggestions will be helpful  thanksfrom what i hear, OCZ does fairly well in the overclocking department. some OCZ models also come stock with heatsinks or liquid cooling.carsair also has a couplemodels i would give a shot.
is it ddr2?Yes it is DDR2 thanks for the replys i'll look into the oczhttp://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3233712&CatId=2264
this is the typeyou need, and will overclock(heat spreaders) Quote from: fpsmitch on April 02, 2008, 07:07:05 PM

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3233712&CatId=2264
this is the typeyou need, and will overclock(heat spreaders)

$100.00 Bucks for a 1G stick of 800 speed RAM ? ?

                                                               

Hey guys,

My printer RECENTLY just died. When I try printing, it doesn't detect the printer and says to make sure that it's connected properly and the printer power is on. I have checked both. Yet, i can still copy stuff using the printer.1.  Printer.
     a.  Make and Model Number
     b.  Type of INTERFACE (Parallel, USB, Wireless, Ethernet)
   
2.  Client Operating System (of computer requesting print)?
Canon MP170
USB

Windows XP Professional 64bit SP2Try reinstalling the driver, how OLD is it?  Usually its easier to get a new one.You can find the driver for XP 64bit.--->Here

Scroll down the page to the download.


I would advise you to uninstall the old drivers,unplug the printer USB
plug,reboot,install the driver,shut down,plug back in USB plug-in,reboot
and see if it works okay.

If this works alright and you see a WoodPecker flying over,send him
home to me.His NAME is Peckerwood.... Only joking friend.... It's a new printer. BOUGHT last year. I will try that method street1Street, are you giving Sashimi the bird, already?? Quote from: Aegis on April 05, 2008, 01:41:33 AM

Street, are you giving Sashimi the bird, already??