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when trying to fax SOMETHING for the first time , i review the cover sheet and REALIZE the name of the person whom i got the computer from name show up instead of MINE. It looks like it would be him SENDING and i do not want it to go like that.So could you tell me how to go and change that? In fact his name shows up on all my STUFF, i hope i am explaining this right. thanks for any help that i could get concerning this problem.

I have a Q/A about Chip SETS??

The Noth Brige Chip controles Data from the CPU and AGP SLOT  and Main Memory.

The South Brige controlles Data from the PCI Slots.

So my Q/A is ...I am building a PC just for Computer GRAPHICS and Animation  and Video and Audio editting.
And just one Video card with no fancy outpus or things like that.

So how do I know what Motherboards Chip Set is good for that  they all say they can do the JOB??They probably all can...
Unless your building a high end gaming machine the choice of chipset isn't that important IMO. Just get a motherboard that supports the hardware you want to install on it.
Depending on the graphics card you want, consider getting a mobo with either Crossfire (ATI) or SLI (Nvidia) support. That way you can install a second graphics card at a later point if you need the extra power.

And when you've found a couple of motherboards you like, GOOGLE them to see if any reviews or comments from other buyers are available.

hello to everyone. hope somebody can help me. i run xp and today got it back from my dealer (who sold it to me 3YRS ago) after he GAVE it a major tune up (his words) now it will not find my printer (lexmark x3470). after reinstalling it again it KEEPS coming up with this "the print spooler is not running. " having used windows help i have DISCOVERED that i do not have a Performance and maintenance icon in my control panel. can i down LOAD from internet or.............???

can you help me

steve
 
Quote

got it back from my dealer (who sold it to me 3yrs ago) after he gave it a major tune up

After years of paying too much for pre-built machines, I've decided to venture into the world of BUILDING my own. I'm pretty well-versed with most hardware but I don't know much about motherboards and POWER supplies. I don't really know what's required between the two, what makes one compatible with the other, et cetera. So, I have a two questions:

1. For future reference, where can I read up on these and learn more about them? Preferably in layman's terms, but more technical and detailed information would be great too.

2. I have a mobo and PSU picked out for the machine I want to build. I'm wondering if the two are compatible with each other. Here are the links to both:

PSU: Click here.
Mobo: Click here.

Thanks in advance for any help. I appreciate it!First off, what are you going to use the computer for? If it is going to be used for heavy gaming or video edditing then building your own is the way to go IMHO.  But if it is just for surfing the web and word processing, then you can't beat the price of a pre-built, especially when you add in the price of a operating system. I have crunched the numbers a few times myself and I can't even get close.

Most ATX power supplies will work with all ATX motherboards. The PS an MB you picked will work together just fine.

This is a good place to read up on computer hardware http://techreport.com/

The computer I'm building will be used for gaming mostly, which is part of why I want to build one myself. I've been using Dell computers for a long time, and as I'm sure you're aware, they just don't cut it for gaming. (or for much of anything else, aside from checking e-mail). I'll take a look at the link you gave me.

Thank you for the quick reply!How about www.tomshardware.com ?      Is that the sort of place you're looking for?


I would say to start with Tomshardware also. Good reviews and many tips.

That's exactly the KIND of info I'm looking for. Thanks, Willy and Spoiler.  Quote from: Shadowtech on April 04, 2008, 01:30:06 PM

That's exactly the kind of info I'm looking for.   ...

My operating system is WINDOWS ME and the problem is a yellow question mark (Conflict) always present in task manager. I Have tried   fixing problem with system drivers m but unsure if I have to RIGHT ONES. If someone COULD advise me on BEST approach to resolving problem, I would very much appreciate it and Thank You   Try this: http://www.zhangduo.com/udi.html

I have RECENTLY upgraded from an HP DeskJet 3650 to an HP F4180.  Using the old printer, I just had to click "PRINT" in Word or Excel, etc., to TURN it on and print the document.  With the F4180, I have to switch it on manually before it will print.  As my keyboard and printer are not together now, I have to get up and switch it on every time!  Is there any way I can configure it so that it "comes to life" when I just click "Print" on a document?

THANKS for any help.

My screen stays black with a no signal on the screen when I try to boot up. I am running a PCI E motherboard. Thinking it may be the video card I opened my comp and removed the video card and tried installing into the other slot for the video card. It still stays black. I tried another card with the same results.
 It SOUNDS like the MB is bad but would both PCI slots go bad at the same time?
PLEASE help!! Try taking out the RAM and seeing if there isnt a beep.  This should help tell you if the board is bad.  Did you try the Video card in another machine?Does it have onboard video?  Have taken out the cmos battery?  Have you tried more than ONE monitor??The odds of both PCI slots going bad wt the same time are high ...but not impossible.
Where did this 2nd card come from ? ?HMM, I actually just bought it through an E-Bay auction.




Quote from: patio on March 13, 2008, 05:58:11 PM

The odds of both PCI slots going bad wt the same time are high ...but not impossible.
Where did this 2nd card come from ? ?

Try taking out the ram and seeing if there isnt a beep.  This should help tell you if the board is bad.  Did you try the Video card in another machine?

Um.... Just throwing this out there but..... did you try another monitor?

Does it have onboard video?  Have taken out the cmos battery?  Have you tried more than one monitor??

macdad thats your opinion not to buy electronics off ebay.

I am going to Builb a PC and I am going to use it for Video and Audio editing.

I am not going to  be using dobble Moniters and I will just be placing a basic video card into it. The video card will not have any Coaxle out puts or anything like that.

My q/a is about the Chip set on the Motherboard. I know I should look for a Motherboard with a high speed Front/side BUSS. But does it matr the TYPE of Chip Set that is on the Motherboard??

The Chip Set controals the speed of the Motherboard but does it matter what kind it is and does the Chip Set afect the type of Video card I will use?? Quote

The Chip Set controals the speed of the Motherboard but does it matter what kind it is and does the Chip Set afect the type of Video card I will use??

But does it matr the type of Chip Set that is on the Motherboard??

Hello,

My original problem occured when putting my music collection onto my (30G) desktop... I basically RAN out of memory! 

This made the computer run very slowly, so I bought an External Hardrive (500G) to solve the issue.  I moved all the audio files onto the external hardrive and they are now fine, though when I connected to the Internet the computer was still very slow and it wasnt LONG till I had the trusty "Virtual Memory Low" message.  General uploading was slow and when playing any video clips, they play only fragments (i.e it "jumps" and "freezes" through the footage...) 

TURNS out I only had 128MB of RAM, so I bought 512MB RAM to solve the issue.  Computer runs well now but video's still jump through the footage and freezes alot... 

Is this an issue with the video card?  Is the only way to ensure footage runs smoothly to buy a new video card?  I KNOW the computer was pretty basic when I got it 6 years ago and its a "Tiny" Desktop

Under "Systems" it currently says I have;
Intel Celeron Processor
1.00GHz, 504MB of RAM


Can anyone offer any help/advise?
Double post.

Pleas help if you can, i have a pc that suddenly turned itself off, thought it was the power supply after a lot off head scratching so bought a new ONE and it is no better, all i GET is a red light om the motherboard and no power anywhere else, this is the 2nd pc from the same MAKER that has done this any ideas? thanks joeboySounds LIKE the motherboard maybe bad.

Do you have another one you can switch out and see if the MACHINE boots?

Clik Here...

i have a pc that i built about 2 years ago has worked fine but yeasterday when i tryed to turn it on my monitor will not communicate with the pc tryrd connecting monitor to laptop and it worked fine also tried all 3 connection on my video card (vga,dvi, and s-video) none of them made the monitor come on and the pc sounds like everything is running normal what could it beTry removing a side panel and removing the vid card and re-seating it...
As always when working INSIDE the case remove all power sources and take anti-static precautions.

If this does not produce good results then swap it into another working machine to confirm that it is dead...tryed putting the video card in a DIFFERENT computer and its like the video card worked but it didnt the monitor seemed to detect something but just displayed a blank black screen could that be because thedrivers were not installed on that pc which means the card is good and its something else wrong in my pcthis is not true.
windows has a generic driver that will run any video card.
so that black screen is (most likely) the video card.Why would you not INSTALL the drivers in the other machine ? ?
After all we're TRYING to determine if the card is bad or not...

Hello,
this problem started suddenly about a year after i bought the computer.
When i turn off my computer the standard way, (Start -> Turn off computer),
the computer makes a sound like it has been turned off, but:
- After that sound, it sounds like the air VENTS are still working
- The computer light is still on
- The mouse light and SCREEN light is turned off (This is actually normal)
- The DVD-rom burner's light flashes a few TIMES, which i find pretty awkward..
- Note: now i can actually open and close the DVD-Rom by pressing the button.

Now it STAYS like the above until i shutdown the computer manually by pressing the button for 5 seconds.

Please, help me fix this.
Thanks in advance! 

Ah yes, specs:
Motherboard: GA-945P-S3
and here's an EVEREST report, if it is necessery:
http://www.mediafire.com/?gwingmslh1vIn the shutdown window make sure standby is not selected...

Hi
Please Pull me out of such awful situationtry to go to start >> run TYPE "sfc /SCANNOW" w/o quote,press ENTER..Re-install the motherboard drivers after un-installing the printer.
This should have no AFFECT on WIN98's operation.

Read on a Dell forum to clear the BIOS, which I did-

If you are now familiar with getting into the BIOS, see if it shows all your drives, such as hard drive, CD / DVD drive / floppy drive.

I am probably not using the correct terminology- I reset all of the settings back on the BIOS
So, I changed a few settings on the SetUp Menu (F2)as was outlined

Now, I am back to getting Primary Drive 0 not found. And Primary Drive 1 not found, and secondary drive 1 not found- Whatever settings I have changed has actually made things worse!!
Everything was OK 24 hrs ago - I basically use this computer for email and internet only

Hi friends,
I have brought one Dell inspiron 1525 , RAM = 1gb only. SUPPLIER saying that it can upgrade up to 4gb , if i do it this what will be the deference , please advise me details, and i am looking for car kit also ,some car kit are available in the market but not suitable to inspiron 1525, if i go for an ac converter can raise any problem in the "SMPS" please advise me

Thnaks dear frindsWhich OS does it have.  If it has Xp depending on what applications you run 1GB is ok and 2GB is great.  Any more than 2GB with XP and you won't see any BETTER PERFORMANCE.  If it's Vista then I'd say you'd want 2GB at least unless you're not in a hurry to get anything done.  Now there is also different flavors of Vista.  Bussiness, ultra, ext.  Also there is 32 bit and 64 bit.  If you have ultra I'd go with 3GB.  Any More than 3.5GB would be a waist with a 32 bit system because that is all it would see.  Also keep in mind that if your memory is DDR2, then you need 2 identical CHIPS to get full performance out of them.

When we say Motherboard Speed do we meen Fron/side BUSS???

And when we TALK about Overclocking the system are we  TAKING the Motherboard speed and timesing it by the RAM speed or what is GOING on??

I think there is something WRONG with my PC, but I can't figure out what it could be.

I haven't used this PC for about a year.  When I built my current PC I stripped this one of the DVD and CD Roms, the floppy drive and a wireless NIC card.  Based I this I assume the MB and video card are properly connected.

I got a CD R/RW, a DVD Rom and a floppy drive and plugged them in the PC.  Now, it randomly decides to somewhat work.  I push power and only the PS fan and my case fan run. Other times the Chip and Video card fans will start up too, but I won't HEAR the beep of the motherboard and I don't get any display.

The third option is it appears to start up, I get the motherboard screen acknowledgement and can get into the BIOS.  I set the thing to boot from the CD and restart with windows.  I am able to start setting up windows and format the HD.

The PC wants to restart, it does, and I get "Windows is Analyzing your hardware configuration"  then the screen goes blank, the CPU fan and case fan turn off; but the PS and Video card fans stay on!  Cntl Alt Del doesn't work, the restart and power buttons on the case don't work either.

I can't figure out what's wrong with this thing.  I cleared the CMOS a few times. I checked my jumpers: R/RW is master, DVD is slave.  HD is on IDE1.  I unplugged everything and reconnected.  I did notice the number 1 pin on my 20 pin PS to MB plug is scorched, but I don't know how long that's been like that.

SPECS:
-MB: Biostar M7NCD
-Video: GeForce fx 5200 AGP8X 128 bit
-HD: Western Digital 80Gig
-CD R/RW
-DVD Rom
-Standard Floppy drive
-PS: 350W


Any ideas?Sorry, forgot my CPU

AMD Athlon XP SOCKET A (1.8gigaHz)i would try another power supply, a known working one, on the PC. this will determine if the PSU is defective or not.Wow, that spare power supply I had was hard to find! heh

I got it hooked up and the PC seems more responsive.  I'm reformating again just to be safe.  It certainly seems this is the answer. Don't worry I'll come crying if it isn't. 


Thanks much Homer!WOO HOO, that was it!GLAD to hear your up and running.

I was just fitting my compnets into my new case , Ive had the case round 2 DAYS but spent around 2 hours TRYING to figure out the pre installed LED lights , so i decided to give it another go.

I transferred everything over , and everything looked fine .

I then connected all the led lights and switch buttons corresponding to the gigabyte manual online .

I then turned on the computer on , and success it WORKED . So then i added my Gpu and my other extra cards and it wouldn't turn on D: * Note: If anyone knows why please say so on here i still haven't figured that out its a usb card pci* So i then took out the usb card and it worked , now still having the side panel off MY PSU STARTED TO SMOKE!!!  I quickly switched it off and added a spare 500w i had laying around the house .

Now my computer turned on , and everything was going great until this extremely loud buzzing noise started coming from the motherboard , i then took to screws from the top the board and the sound went . I don't think it was to tight so why that noise was so loud i have no idea again a mystery to me.

Anyone go anything to say ^_^  very UNFORTUNATE man.
r.i.p.ps
so does the computer still work?
i dont understand what you are asking...buzzing hmm. it could either be

A. loose/bad fan on CPU heatsink
B. an electrical short. check to make sure your motherboard is not touching the case in any places other then the screw holes meant for mounting it.

my guess is B. that may account for the PS dying.

an added note, the mounting screws on the motherboard should be fairly tight. not so tight to break the motherboard, but tight enough so they will not vibrate loose. Quote from: fpsmitch on April 01, 2008, 10:17:27 PM

very unfortunate man.
r.i.p.ps
so does the computer still work?
i dont understand what you are asking...

I'm interested in building my own COMPUTER and one thing I'm not too savvy on are power supplies. Essentially, I need a minimum number for my next purchase here. I intend to go above and beyond, but not so far above, or beyond for that matter, that the price becomes overly inflated.

I intend to run an AMD Athlon 64 X2 6400+ on a ASUS M2N-SLI AM2 570 SLI MCP ATX mobo. 4gigs of DDR2 800mhz ram and a Radeon X1950 pro(512mb) PCI-E x16. Throw in two internal drives of mediocre quality, two EXTERNAL hard drives, CD/DVD rom, CD/DVD burner, USB keyboard(lighted, probably makes a slight difference), USB optical mouse, and ROUGHLY 4 120mm fans.

Could someone possibly make a list of required wattage for each item individually? Thanks for the time!i wont be able to make a list of the power consumption of each item, but i can recommend at least a 400w power supply. personally, i would go with a 500W, it gives you plenty of HEADROOM and allows room for some future add-ons. some good power supply manufacturers are corsair and OCZ.I would start at 500w and than look at how much you can spend.

Thanks for the quick responses. I was looking at getting something with a BIT more bang than a 500w regardless, but figured I'd make sure I wasn't completely overkilling with a 1000W or something on something that could run on 400W.I'd say a 1000W PSU would be overkill.  Not only purchase price, but also the cost of energy it consumes just with normal use.  I'm not a penny pincher, but you'd be surprised how fast the cost can add up.  Even  more so if you let it run most of the time. If you were thinking more than 500W then I'd meet somewhere in the middle of 500 and 1000.Seasonic is great ps supply also. Quote from: BizzaroHunter on April 01, 2008, 10:41:29 PM

Could someone possibly make a list of required wattage for each item individually? Thanks for the time!

but also the cost of energy it consumes just with normal use.

When I start up my computer, than I go to a screen stating if that the computer was not able to start up or CLOSE down safely. I am told I can use safe MODE, choose the last good windows configuration, or start Windows normally. I TRY all those choices, but when I do the computer loads up but takes me back to that screen. How do I fix this?Will it fully boot into Safe Mode? Windows version? Computer specs?It never fully boots. I use the XP home edition by the way.Did it just start? Any RECENT software, hardware CHANGES?It just started several days ago.Any recent software, hardware changes?Not that I know of. Before than, I had no warning, but the computer would not give me the choices to shut down or take very long, forcing me to have to press the on/off button.Boot with Windows XP CD, and use Repair option.

can someone pls help me. everytime i  TRY to open my usb there WOULD always be an error MESSAGE saying "e:\ is not accesible because of an i'o device error. what could be the problem? and how can i solve this? Welcome to the CH forums.

e:\ is what?  Printer/scanner/flash-drive/hard-drive.  How are we to know?

PLEASE read this..

Hi
I was wondering if different motherboards CHANGE the speed of the computer.
Like a more expensive motherboard, with lets say with a QUAD core in it, is it going to be faster than a cheaper motherboard, with the same processor.

I know that some motherboards can't have some processors on them, like a old motherboard you can't INSTALL a new processor on in.

and is PCI slots for newer graphics cards?

thanks Quote from: saint_hades on April 02, 2008, 09:01:27 AM

and is PCI slots for newer graphics cards?

I don't know who but I think someone miss understands me so I will Apologize.

I have very bad eye SIGHT so that is why I Deleted my old Topic and put new one up. Because I would have troble finding my old Topics and if I can't find my old Topic then I can't ad something to it.

So then I would have to make a new Topic and that became Annoying to some people to see new Topics of the same Q/As.

So again I Apologize

you could have asked for help rather than starting new topics constantly. see below to see how to find threads that you have created or replied to if there have been any new POSTS.

[recovering space - attachment deleted by admin]LOL...at FIRST, I thought, it was pointing at Calendar....heheheIf you click the "your recent posts" link next to the link Homer circled you get a LIST of all the posts you've ever made.

And APOLOGY accepted btw. I just wish you would have asked us about this earlier so we could have avoided this mess.

Ok here's the situation, I've got a laptop that refuses to connect to the INTERNET.

If you plug in a direct connection to a router it sometimes connects for about 5mins before losing its IP address.

If you try wireless it detects a range of networks and apparently connects to them, however the internet doesn't work. I suspect that the problem is software rather than hardware but other than that I’ve got nothing. Anyone else have any ideas?

(This is so much fun, just like trying to set up a network on Win98)
what is the make and model of the laptop and what operating system?
Operating system: Windows XP SP2 (It's legal so no need for SP3)

Brand: Toshiba SATELLITE Pro L100

Model No. PSLA4E

Wireless FCC ID: PPD-AR5BMB5 (I think)Are you successful using the internet with any other computer connected through the same "router" (router/switch?)?Yeah its just the laptop, and its with any router/modem I tryI'd try re-installing the laptop MBoard drivers...
Have you ever been able to connect? How old is your laptop?Don't worry now I've fixed it, it was one of the most ridiculous reason ever... The laptop had a disable wireless hotkey and I only realised this after I reinstalled the drivers (which re-enabled wifi) and looked at the keyboard.

Stay TUNED for more retarded QUESTIONS and Answers.Good going....Don't worry, things like those happen to everyone.

Hi,

I am using an Nvidia motherboard with AMD processor. I have Windows XP operating system. My computer is not recovering from standby.  It does not start even when I switch the  CPU  power ON/OFF and try restarting or starting it. There is no light on the CPU, though the monitor light blinks which is powered by the same power source.

Please suggest. Are there any test  - like opening the CPU and checking for some voltage which can tell me what is wrong with it?

Thank you. I will appreciate any suggestion.

NehaCheck your cables.... Also MAKE SURE your cards seat well in their slot... Also check your power cords..Hi,

I just opened d CPU and powered the conputer on... After this we checked the SMPS output and it gave 0.5 V on one pin and 0 on other.

 
One afternoon I had put the computer on stand by (which is rare) and then after an hour or so the computer did not start at all.


Thanks so MUCH for your replyHave you made any changes prior to this? aside from putting it on stand by... hardware/software installation? and also could you give us your specs...hardware and software... Please include PSU ratings and OS.. Other members might need it...

Thanks!! first thing, this is a CPU and this is a computer.

secondly, we will need computer specs. such as the make/model of PSU.Standby has been known to be very unstable and have issues coming out of standby mode.Hi,

So, it is a computer which I powered ON. The make of the PSU is :

ZEBRONIC - ATX Switching power supply
Model : LC B400ATX

I/P V 115~ , 230~  I  10 A, 6 A , Freq 60 - 50 Hz

The mother board in use is of Zesus and graphics card from nvidia . It is an AMD 64 processor.There were no software , hardware changes prior to putting it on stand-by. Though I do suspect virus from pendrive.Borrow a known good PSU of the same wattage or greater and swap it in there to see if that's the culprit...
As always when working inside the case remove all power sources and take anti-static precautions...Hi ,

This is what I did :

I have another computer of exactly the same make. I exchanged the PSU of the two and observed that in the computer which is working fine - an LED is on (located on the mother board) when I press the start buttom. But this doesnt happen in the computer not working.

I also checked the power coming on the ports when computer was started (using start buttom) . In the one that is working fine, the power supply shows 5V adn 12 V as expected. But in the one not working the voltage is like 0.5V and 0V.

Also when the PSU is powered on and the computer not switched on , the sockets coming out of the PSU show no voltage as expected. So I understand that the motherboard gives a trigger to the PSU to start supplying power.


So, my question is that - is the fault in motherboard?

If yes then the malfunctioning is due to software or hardware?

I left the computer on stadnby for an hour and then it did not start. Can any virus stop the computer to SEND this trigger?

Thanks.Hi Everybody,

I really need to repair my computer. Please help. Thanks a lot.

Neha Quote from: Betaa on March 18, 2008, 04:54:11 PM

Standby has been known to be very unstable and have issues coming out of standby mode.

I have read on the NET that the Computers Front/side BUSS is just the speed of the Motherboard and how fast the Data GETS from say the RAM to the CPU and Data gets to the CPU and to the PCI slots.

I get this.

And the CPU speed is just how many instructions the CPU can do in a Cycle  and my CPU is 3GHz  so that mean my CPU is doing 3 Billion Instructions per sec I get this.

So when people say they Overclock there CPU  what they mean is hey overclock the Motherboard Speed right???

And if you have a CPU that runs at a speed of 3GHz and your Motherboard runs at a speed of 533 MGz then this means your Motherboard is slower then the CPU.

So when your CPU came up with the Instruction it just prossesed  it has to sit  and weight till the Motherboard comes to get the Data and pass it on.

So the is why people Overclock the Motherboard Right? Quote from: nymph4 on March 31, 2008, 01:32:16 PM

And the CPU speed is just how many instructions the CPU can do in a Cycle  and my CPU is 3GHz  so that mean my CPU is doing 3 Billion Instructions per sec I get this.

Honestly, why do you still delete your previous threads? Like I've told you before it is extremely annoying and selfish.
It is annoying because if you hadn't deleted your previous thread on basically the same topic, I could have quoted my self saying that a processor can do more than 1 instruction per clock cycle instead of having to write it again. And it is selfish because now other users can't benefit from your questions.

Actually I don't really feel like answering your questions anymore.

And the CPU speed is just how many instructions the CPU can do in a Cycle  and my CPU is 3GHz  so that mean my CPU is doing 3 Billion Instructions per sec I get this.

So when people say they Overclock there CPU  what they mean is hey overclock the Motherboard Speed right???

And if you have a CPU that runs at a speed of 3GHz and your Motherboard runs at a speed of 533 MGz then this means your Motherboard is slower then the CPU.

So when your CPU came up with the Instruction it just prossesed  it has to sit  and weight till the Motherboard comes to get the Data and pass it on.

So the is why people Overclock the Motherboard Right?

I purchased Windows Vista (on four CDS, not a DVD version) and installed it on the computer as my only OPERATING system. After installing it, I found that the CD-Rom drive is not read, such that it is receiveng power from the power cable and data from the data, because when I right click on the CD-Rom drive and click on eject, the tray of the CD-Rom gets opened. I tested the CD-Rom on another computer which has Windows XP as an operating system and it was working. I decided to reinstall Windows XP again on my computer USING a bootable CD but I found that during copying the files needed for installing windows, the computer has a problem of being unable to copy some files, particularly ".xml" files, thus the windows cannot be installed. The whole picture now is that I don't have any operating system on my computer  . Of note, my CD-Rom is approximately 5-6 years old and I have been using it frequently and it is ASUS 52XDid you format the HD inside of the win xp disc?  It could be having INTERMITTENT problems in other words it hasn't failed completely yet...
I'd replace it instead of tearing my hair out on this one.
They are relatively cheap these days.Sorry I got lost in your post as Patio said an what I was going to put is to just replace it.

When I use my mouse it is jerky. I find it very difficult to select icons and using a drawing PROGRAM is virtually impossible. Sometimes it jumps about the screen when I move it too. Is it BROKEN?More INFO about the mouse and your COMPUTER please.
What is the BRAND and model number of the mouse?
Is it wired or wireless?
Version of Windows?
When did the problem start?Is this a laptop with a touch screen?

I am trying to print a PDF FILE, but my PRINTER just stops and a light flashes on it. What is the problem and how could I fix it?We need more info.
Make and model of printer?
Version of WINDOWS?
When did the problem start?
Have you tried REINSTALLING the printer driver.

installed NEW Dell desktop PC and have virtually no CAPABILITY of viewing videos on INTERNET e.g. youtube. The loading speed is unbearable.
CPU is 1.6 Ghz dual core, 1 Gig RAM, 128 MB X1300 video card.
May have something to with Trend Micro Antivirus/firewall settings ?

Also, operating system is Windows VistaYes firewall, and if your computer is connected to a router try to open a port and disable the NAT of the router. You might need to install a flash player on your computer. Thanks skipper,
yes I am using a Netgear Router but not sure what you mean by "open a port and disable the NAT" of the router, sorry my ignorance here
I do have the firewall on a low setting, any recs on a flash player ?
thanks again for your response.
Quote

IMPORTANT----PLEASE NOTE: Disabling NAT has very distinct ramifications, not the least of which is that you will expose each node on your network to the internet. In this mode the Netopia is providing NO firewall protection as is afforded by NAT. Please take appropriate precautions to prevent unauthorized intrusion into your network. You should also confirm with your ISP that the internal IP addressing scheme that will be used in this mode is "legal" and appropriate for your CIRCUMSTANCES.

Yes firewall, and if your computer is connected to a router try to open a port and disable the NAT of the router. You might need to install a flash player on your computer.

Hello! Well I've bought this hard drive on Ebay and I can't seem to find any way to connect it to anything. Can't return it, been on the net trying to find an 80 pin scsi to convert to any thing useful. I'm READY to through it away. there is a surplus of 68 pin scsi connectors. I've looked up to try to find the manufacture and only find retailers, but no ribbon cables for 80 pin scsi. I need to go from 80 pin scsi from the HDD to the motherboard or usb, or anything so I can use HDD. Any suggestions!!! or might know of a link were I can purchase a connector. Or better yet Know what this HDD is to fit?
Thanks for any help.

[recovering space - attachment deleted by admin]You need a SCSI interface card. Hope you didn't spend too much on it!
 Well I spent $35 for it but I'm will to spend a little more to make it work for me. What does this interface card do and do you know where I can obtain it. I've been searching for days to make this work and any help would be great.l You have no idea how frustrated I'm am with this purchase mistake I've made. Ive got 4 seanix TCO series desktops and 10 compaq desktop EN that need HDDs. Quote from: vic_i_eee on April 01, 2008, 12:28:54 AM

What does this interface card do

and do you know where I can obtain it.

Hi all.
I have a mitsubishi MONITOR. My computer runs on Win. XP. My problem is that I am not able to read anything on the monitors screen, since the WORDS are blurred. I have all settings fine.
Kindly assist.as in flickering display!!

...I can not read anything...!!!
What VIDEO card ?
What is the native resolution of the monitor ? Hi.

Not sure of the video card. Has NORMAL 15 inch resolution.

However, I suppose the problem may not be directly related to the asked issues since nothing to do with the setting changed. It just happened that after a long span of good functionality, the monitor started flickering to an extend that you may not read anything on the display!!

Thanks.
Do you have another monitor you could swap out? Even for a short time to test and see if your OLD monitor is the reason your having trouble.

15 inch is not a monitor resolution...hook up the monitor to another machine and see how it looks...

Orginaly It's a Pentium 4 Socket 478, Intel SE7210TP1-E Sever Board, DDR RAM 1 GB, SATA Drives 160 GB 300 GB, HDA Digital X Mystique 7.1 Gold, Radeon X1300


Know since it changed over.  I had just built a computer a while back ago.  But I get an ocasional error from time to time, Disk Boot Failure, Insert system disk an press enter.  I do and it restarts to my BIOS settings.  I exit it and restarts an it tries to install xp.  I remove the power cable to the harddrive and reconnect it.  Boots into xp but doesn't see the D drive at times.  Reconnect the cables to it and windows scans the drive and runs okay. Then the error starts again. It's a Pentium 4 Socket 478, BioStar Board P4M80-M4, DDR RAM 1 GB, SATA Drives 160 GB 300 GB, HDA Digital X Mystique 7.1 Gold, Radeoon X 1300. It was a refurbished drive, but I get the error even if I set the Slave SATA to be a master.  I googled the matter and found what I needed.  It told me that my FIRMWARE needed updating.  But after contacting Maxtor it said there isn’t any firmware updates.  So I finally got Seatools installed and ran it but it says "No HBA Has Been Detected."  Is that bad?  Its a windows VERSION of the program.  These aren’t raided.  I have to run maxblast four to get this pc to work.  But when I run it, it doesn't see my mouse and the display is all differnt colors.  Which is part of he problem. 


Pentium 4 Socket 478, BioStar Board P4M80-M4, DDR RAM 1 GB, SATA Drives 160 GB 320 GB, HDA Digital X Mystique 7.1 Gold, Radeon X1300

I booted up the machine yesterday and didn't have any problems.  Then I unpluged it after it shut off, So I tried starting it and it would get to the xp load screen and then a blank screen appeared.  So I tried to format the drive, the maxblast colors were all wierd.  I thought the drive some how went bad like the one I had in the system before.  It sees it as a unknow partiton in the xp installation.  I don't have another machine that will see the drives, I have the orginal drive I took out but I don't want to open the case unless I have too.  Also the drive I had replaced it with is brand new olny about a week old. This shouldn't happen cause it didn't occur the first week, also afraid that the drive wouldn't show up and having to reinstall wind xp every other day and opening the case and reconnect and disconnecting the cables to them. I contacted Seagatr and they said

Nick TS174: ...
Robert: Will it work on this drive Maxtor 300 GB Model 6B300SO Serial B603FP5H DiamondMax
Robert: I was told there were problems with these drives
Robert: The same problems are occuring
Nick TS174: Im not aware of any problems with that device and that application.
Robert: I was told there were it would I get an ocasional error from time to time, Disk Boot Failure, Insert system disk an press enter.  I do and it restarts to my BIOS settings.  I exit it and restarts an it tries to install xp.  I remove the power cable to the harddrive and reconnect it.  Boots into xp but doesn't see the D drive at times.  Reconnect the cables to it and windows scans the drive and runs okay. Then the error starts again.  I was told to update the firmware code but there isn't one
Nick TS174: I think the progblems you are having here go beyond the abilities of chat support.



After a few more hours of some reshearch and hard work.  So what I'm able to tell know is its not the drives.  I conected an IDE and it had the same problem.  I dont think its the board or cpu as these were replaced and still the problems is there.  There is a 450 watt psu Xion Model LC-B450E set to 115 volts.  Large ThermalRight heatsink on the cpu.  Hope this helps as to pointing to an answer.Just so we know that there arent any complications as to what has happend.  Sorry its so long.  No one I know has figured whats wrong with it.  I'm going to build a multi MEDIA soon an just in case this happens it would be helpful to know.Ring, Ring.... Can I have some help please?  I said please.  Come on guys.    I said please.  Its giveing me the exact same problems know and I finally had it booting regulary.  Know is saing NTLDR is missing and needs to restart and I tried the Xp repair and it didnt help.  HELP  I asked nicely.i just really do not want to read that short essay of a post.

Quote

Know is saing NTLDR is missing and needs to restart and I tried the Xp repair and it didnt help.

Homer I'm getting tired of your intentions this drive is new and only two weeks old

I have set the SCREEN resolution to 800x600 to MAKE the screen big enough to see property but now everything is blocky. How can I fix this?What VIDEO card ?
What is the native resolution of the monitor ?You could try increasing the resolution (i.e 1024x768) and increase your DPI setting (under advanced on the display PROPERTIES/settings console) (you may need your Windows disc for this)Thank you  , but cuold you give me more ditailse olease  Instructions for windows XP by the way but later or earlier versions should be the same.

1. Right click on your desktop and select properties off the menu that opens.

2. The Display Properties window should open, select the settings tab at the top of the page.

3. Click the advanced button, this will open a new window.

4. If the new window has not already done so, switch to the general tab.

5. Use the drop menu to change the DPI settings to large size (120DPI)

6. Click apply, just a NOTE you may be asked to insert your windows disc and asked to restart your pc at this point.

That’s as explanatory as I can make it, hope I’ve not been patronizing.Thank you very much

The sound on my computer has stopped working. I have checked the speakers and they work with my Walkman. My computer can also play audio CDs ok. Do you have any IDEA what has happened?Do you mean that the CD drive plays the music? (I.e. You can plug a set of headphones into the audio jack on the front of the drive and listen to music directly from the drive itself)

Is the PC detecting a sound card? If you use the the run command in your start menu, type "DXdiag" without the quotes and click ok.

A DirectX Diagnostic window should open and if you click on the "Sound" tab you should see information about your sound card.

If the sound card is being DETECTED the device name, ALONG with other USEFUL information will be shown.

You will need to have Direct 7 or higher INSTALLED for this to work

The LASER printer works fine most of the TIME, but sometimes the print out is BLOTCHY. What is wrong with it?What is the make and model of the printer?
HP Color LASERJET 3800nIt may be DIRTY have you tried using the cleaning service?

Hi,
I have and ups that i USED on my old system. but for my new laptop i have been advised to purchase a Voltage stabilizer. however he did not know that i had a UPS, do i need to change? i do need something as the power does fluctuate or even CUT off where i live.The UPS should do a better than ADEQUATE JOB at regulating the power provided the battery is in good CONDITION...

If it's the only HDD it should be jumpered as master and hooked up to the end connector of the IDE cable.

Stop 0x000000ED or UNMOUNTABLE_BOOT_VOLUME

The kernel mode I/O subsystem attempted to mount the boot volume and it failed. This error might also occur during an upgrade to Windows XP PROFESSIONAL on systems that use higher throughput ATA disks or controllers with incorrect cabling. In some cases, your system might appear to work normally after you restart.

Possible Resolutions:
If using higher throughput ATA disks and controllers, those capable of data transfer rates above 33.3 megabytes per second, replace the standard 40-pin cable with an 80-pin cable. Using an 80-pin cable is optional for transfer rates up to and including 33.3 megabytes per second, but is mandatory for higher transfer rates. The additional grounded pins are required to avoid data loss.
Some firmware enables you to force higher transfer rates even when you are using the incorrect cable type. Your firmware might issue a warning but allow the startup process to proceed. Restore the default firmware setting for ATA cable detection.
Problems that cause 0xED errors might also cause Stop 0x7B errors. For more information about 0x7B Stop messages, see "Stop 0x0000007B or INACCESSIBLE_BOOT_DEVICE" earlier in this appendix.

Microsoft KB articles:
STOP 0x000000ED Error Message When Volume on IDE Drive with Caching Enabled Is Mounted
STOP 0x000000ED UNMOUNTABLE_BOOT_VOLUME

Method 2: Damaged File System
If the second parameter (0xbbbbbbbb) of the Stop error is 0xC0000032, the file system is damaged.

If this is the case, restart the computer to the Recovery Console, and then use the chkdsk /r command to repair the volume. After you repair the volume, check your hardware to isolate the cause of the file system damage.

To do this, follow these steps: 1.   Start your computer by using the Windows startup disks, or with the Windows installation disk if your computer can start from the CD drive.
2.   When the Welcome to Setup screen appears, press R to select the repair option.
3.   If you have a dual-boot or multiple-boot computer, select the Windows installation that you want to access from the Recovery Console.
4.   Type the administrator password when you are prompted to do this.

Note If no administrator password exists, press ENTER.
5.   At the command prompt, on the drive where Windows is installed, type chkdsk /r, and then press ENTER.
6.   At the command prompt, type exit, and then press ENTER to restart your computer.

If this procedure does not work, repeat it and use the fixboot command in step 5 instead of the chkdsk /r command.

Hello, my name is Justin, thought I'd try to find a site that might have people that will know the answer to this amazingly confusing problem I have. About a month ago I began to get artifacting in some games I played. After some research I found that it was most likely due to some overheating of the video card. So I took a house fan and pointed it into my case and the problem seemed to diminish.

Then the problem became much worse.



This is what happened.

To make a long story short, I've replaced Video Card, Motherboard, Power Supply, and the Processor. I've tried different RAM. I've reformatted my hard drive and re-installed windows. Nothing fixed it.

I've even tried my video cards in another computer and they worked just fine.

Does anyone know of another reason I could be getting these artifacts?

by the way im not overclocking anything

System Specs:

MSI K9N Neo-F V.3 AM2 NVIDIA nForce 560 MCP ATX AMD Motherboard
AMD Athlon 64 X2 5400+ 2.8GHz 65W
Rosewill RP600V2-SL 600W SLI Ready-ATX12V V2.01 Power Supply
EVGA 320-P2-N811-AR GeForce 8800GTS 320MB 320-bit GDDR3
G.Skill 2GB 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800
Western Digital Caviar SE WD2500JS 250GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s

Thanks for your time.
Sounds like overheating.
What temperatures are your BIOS reporting for the CPU and ambient temp?
What about the gfx card?Temperatures:
      Motherboard                                           46 °C  (115 °F)
      CPU                                                     17 °C  (63 °F)
      CPU #1 / Core #1                                    6 °C  (43 °F)
      CPU #1 / Core #2                                   14 °C  (57 °F)
      MCP                                                     54 °C  (129 °F)
      Aux                                                        6 °C  (43 °F)
      GPU                                                      52 °C  (126 °F)
      GPU Diode                                              56 °C  (133 °F)
      GPU Ambient                                          50 °C  (122 °F)
      Seagate ST3200021A                              43 °C  (109 °F)
      WDC WD2500JS-00NCB1                          37 °C  (99 °F)
decent temps onboard sensors not always accurate i would suggest adding a pci exhaust fan below your graphics card and see what happens.an exhaust fan is a great idea.
they arent very expensive either.
also maybe a pci fan is an idea
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=120565&Sku=V13-4200
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=39598well i increased my gpu fan to 100% from 60% and there was notable difference in quality. however i also put a house fan in the side and got the gpu temp down to 40C yet i still get QUITE a few artifacts. you think some more fans in the case would help? seems like the vid card shouldn't be screwing up at all at this temp.you have replaced everything and still?
this is very bamboozling...
does this happen in every game/video you play/watch?yeah every game i play, not in videos i watch though. every game, but not in videos?
do you have the latest drivers for everything?yeah updated all drivers i could think of
Do you have a good heatsink for the heat to dissipate?  Quote from: squall_01 on March 21, 2008, 04:03:41 AM

Do you have a good heatsink for the heat to dissipate? 

seems like the vid card shouldn't be screwing up at all at this temp.

I am looking to recovery 2513 jpeg photos from a very old hard drive.  I tried File Scavenger to recover them from my current hard drive to no avail.  I just remembered that the photos I want might be on the old 4gb hard drive I used to use.  I have the photo files now, but after using a backup utility (Powerquest Drive Image 7) on them, they became corrupted.  The 2513 corrupted jpeg photos make up about 940MB.
 
The old 4GB hard drive cam from a Gateway Desktop computer that I bought in 1997.
I've since gotten rid of it and replaced it with my HP Pavillion which I bought in 2005.
I just realized that I still have the hard drive to the old Gateway. I believe I may have reformatted it when I tried to network my two computers together.  I think I may even have changed operating systems, converting Windows 95 to Windows 98.  Still, I may have an EASIER time pulling old files off of that hard drive than I did with the HP.

Furthermore, I don't even know if the old picture files were ever even on that hard drive.  The hard drive is only 4gb and I probably had at least a gb of photos at the time I got rid of it.  I am guessing I would had to have put them on a computer because the memory cards were very small at the time.  I just need a way to connect it now.
 
The hard drive is all I had left from the old computer.  I got rid of the rest of the computer but was afraid someone would get into PERSONAL info on my hard drive.  So I kept the hard drive until I could figure out what to do with it.  Now I just need to figure out how I can connect it to my computer as an additional drive so that I can use my current opertaing system and data recovery software to retrieve what's on it.
 
The old hard drive is as follows:
Western Digital
Caviar 34000
AT Compatible Intelligent Drive
Drive Parameters 7752cyl  -  16 heads  -  63 spt  --  4000.7 MB
 
MDL:  AC34000 - 00LA
CCC:  AA 13 AUG 97
DCM:  CLBBJLHOBAMA
 
These are the specs on my current computer which I purchased in 2005:
These are the specs of my computer:  HP PAVILION 735n Desktop Computer, Windows XP, 2600+ AMD Athlon XP PROCESSOR, 512MB DDR SDRAM memory (2 x 256MB),
80GB Ultra DMA Hard Drive
    (Partitioned:
          C: 70.4GB    NTFS - where photos should be and
          D:  4.07 GB  FAT32 - system restore files).
 
The question is, how can I connect my old hard drive to my current computer (I also have a HP Pavillion laptop with Windows XP) so that I can attempt to use file scavenger on it.If you have a working computer with an extra IDE interface on the cable you can connect it as a slave drive and copy the images off.

If you don't have an extra IDE interface you can look at something like this.....

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812156101

Hey everyone, I just recently bought a monster hdmi coard with a dvi output. Now eerything is working perfectly i have my pc set up to my 42 inch in hd, though my video card couldn't support the full resolution of 1928x or somthin. just running at 1280 and 720 i BELIEVE.
Now te problem I am having is all my video games when i try and play them run, and i can hear the sounds of the music and clicks of the GAME, but It does not diplay, it's just a black screen. No ERROR messages or anything. Anyone know what I can do about this? It's very frustrating, cause games like cnc3 and cs: source aren't working.

I almost forgot.
My specs are pretty basic
2.8 ghz pentium 4 processor, 1.5 gb of ddr ram
120 gb hard drive
Sound blaster pro
saphire ati Radeon 1950 pro 512mg
its freshly reformatted EVERYTHING works FINE, my power supply is 50 watts below suggested for my video card though. Its a 400 watt power supply.

I bought a KBS-26 A4Tech wired keyboard and the navig-wheel bar (basically a scroll wheel) works in a few apps only (ie7, acrobat reader, word) with the driver from the CD it came with (ikeyworks 7.76). A4Tech recently posted a new driver on their website (7.80) and, surprise surprise, the "navig-wheel" configuration tab just disappeared. If this is the way A4Tech solves issues...  Of course, I emailed their support last month and no RESPONSE. So, if you guys experienced the same issue and managed to somehow make it work, please, please tell me. That wheel is one of the REASONS I bought the keyboard in the first place. I had a keyboard like this a few years ago, but it was in a wireless desktop kit (the KB(S)-2680RP) and it WORKED flawlessly.
I run Windows XP SP2.
Thanks!Un-install it in DEVICE Manager and re-boot and install the original drivers...If I do that it will just bring the navig-wheel functionality back to that few apps that I mentioned.
I want it to work in all "scrollable" windows.  

I also noticed that if I change the speed of the scrolling for the navig-wheel, it also modifies the scrolling speed of the wheel on my mouse... Hm. I guess it's a conflict between the two scrolling wheels. Quote

If I do that it will just bring the navig-wheel functionality back to that few apps that I mentioned.
I want it to work in all "scrollable" windows. Cheesy 

Every time i turn on my computer it makes a BEEPING noise and the screen SAYS no signal . Then after about 234893793749347937 of times trying to turn it onit goes on without beeping and so does the screen but then it freezes and when i restart it starts beeping again.

Please help i really dont know what to do and i am usually good with computers .
thanks


ps i MIGHT take a while to respond as i have no access to a computer , i am currentley using a friends .Hard drives do not beep...that SOUND is from the MBoard .
The beep codes are different for different boards so we will need alot more info on the machine to prevent a guessing game...

Canon Pixma ip1000 5100 Service ErrorI've a Canon Pixma ip1000 Printer. I ALSO have its driver for Linux & Windows. The printer when sent a PRINTING job, shows an error "5100 Service Error" in Windows. It neither shows ORANGE or Blinking light, nor does it print anything. The printer receives the printing job and tries to act ACCORDINGLY, but it doesn't print anything i.e. the cartridge doesn't move from side to side. The printer is WELL recognized by my OS, so there is no compatibility problem.

*There is no need to specify my computer specs in this case

Awaiting your reply.
Thanking You,
Abhisek

My motherboard has a Frontside BUSS of
1066 / 800 / 533 but it does not say if this is MHz or GHz?

And ware can I get good information on what Overclocking realy is or does? Quote from: nymph4 on March 30, 2008, 03:03:58 PM

My motherboard has a Frontside BUSS of
1066 / 800 / 533 but it does not say if this is MHz or GHz?

And ware can I get good information on what Overclocking realy is or does?

hi i have a custom built pc and i am looking to upgrade the memory i can go up to 4gig but i have xp so it will only let me have 3gig i already have two 512 in there and i was wondering if i need to buy the same make which is in the pc already my mother board is a lanparty rdx200 cf-dr and i need pc3200 ddr also i have 4 slots two taken up with the 512 whats the best and cheapest option?you dont have to buy the same brand, but its a good idea to look for the same speed memory, or just throw what you have out and buy a 2gb kit, since ram is super cheap these daysNot to be a pain in the a$$, but if you're gonna install more than one stick, its usually a good idea to buy a "kit". I'm always hearing about people who install DIFF. brands at diff. times and end up with problems.personally, i would save up enough for a new CPU, motherboard, and RAM. DDR 333 RAM costs about as much as DDR2 1066 RAM. to me, its not worth spending money on old technology, especially when it costs the same, if not more, then new technology.Good point.1.  Motherboard.  Diamond Flower (DFI) LANPARTY UT RDX200 CF-DR ?

2.  The "Crucial" web site www.crucial.com will answer most of your questions.  The following link discusses memory for what may be your motherboard.  Read it and any supporting information very carefully.  And then ask here if there are things you don't understand.

3.  Make.  No you don't have to buy the same "make" as is already in there.

4.  Cost.  I would never buy the "cheapest" memory.  You need it to work without error all the time (not most of the time).

5.  From the referenced link:

QUOTE

    *  USB Support:   2.x Compliant
    * Error DETECTION Support:   Non-ECC only
    * Chipset:   ATI Radeon XPRESS 200 CrossFire
    * Supported DRAM Types:   DDR SDRAM only
    * Module Types Supported:   Unbuffered only
    * Max Unbuffered DDR SDRAM:   4096MB
    * Max Component Density:   512
    * 184-pin DIMM Banking:   4 (2 banks of 2)
    * Graphics Support:   Dual PCI Express x16, CrossFire capable
    * Although the memory can be installed one module at a time, the best performance comes from using matched pairs of modules.

Q: Will my system recognize the maximum upgrade?

A: Possibly

How much memory your Windows OS will recognize depends on which version of Windows you are running. 32-bit versions of Windows will see (and utilize) only 3GB or 3.5GB. To utilize more memory, install a 64-bit version of your OS. More information about OS memory maximums can be found at http://www.crucial.com/kb/answer.aspx?qid=4251.

Q: What memory goes into my computer, and will a FASTER speed be backward-compatible?

A: DDR memory with support for DDR PC2700,DDR PC3200 speeds.

Because DDR memory is backward-compatible, you can safely upgrade your system with any of the guaranteed-compatible DDR speeds listed below, even if your manual calls for PC1600 or PC2100 speeds.

Q: How much memory can my computer handle?

A: 4096MB.

Adding the maximum amount of memory will improve performance and help extend the useful life of your system as you run increasingly demanding software applications in the future.

Q: Do I have to install matching pairs?

A: Yes.

Your system requires that you install memory in pairs.

Q: Does my computer support dual-channel memory?

A: Yes.

To benefit from the performance advantages offered by dual-channel systems, you should install memory in identical pairs. Installing a kitted pair is the best way to ensure that your modules are identical, right down to the chip count.

Q: Does my computer support ECC memory?

A: Yes.

Your system supports ECC. You can put non-ECC modules into an ECC system, but be sure not to mix ECC and non-ECC modules WITHIN a system. Install the same type of modules that are already in your system.

hi guys!


i dont know if the problem is my cdrom the cd that i USED..when i tried to USE a original WINDOWS xp sp1 bootable cd to boot a message displays "No Emulation" and then the cdrom stops from reading the cd inside..

any help would be much appriciated.Does your CD drive work OK with other CDs?Any ISO or Daemon tools installed on this machine ? ?
Is this a copy of an XP CD or does it have shiny holograms all over it ? ?
Are you doing a re-install ?it is an original windows xp cd,it has a HOLOGRAM in it.There were 2 other questions...

How old is this CD drive ? ?its ok now, theres nothing wrong with the no emulation thing cause ive tried it in other computer then even though it appears the no emulation it continues to read the cd, the problem was the cdrom.

thanks patio.You're more than Welcome...stop by anytime.

Hello
Just an hour ago,I was playing some tunes from a disc in my "D" DRIVE,with Windows Media Play.
I decided to copy three of them to my computer. I WENT through the proceedure for all three.Then I got a message"cannot copy"
I checked the "go to" site;it was empty.
I went BACK to retry,and the "D" disc element was removed from my computer"my computer".
I checked the recycle bin;not there.
Where did it go?
FrankhELLO,AGAIN
I dunno why,or how;but the icon reappeared when i fired up the computer,a few moments ago.
Anyway,it's back
FrankSometimes, restarting is all cure, you need.Broni
Thanks for the response.
I found out the problem.It happened again,today;at THESAME track.
That particular track,ALTHOUGH new,is flawed.It won't play on my den player.
It happened to be #i track. The other tracks ripped without any incident.
FrankCool