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I have been trolling the web trying to find out the solution to my webcam showing my video broadcast as upside down. I have had this laptop for 2 years now and I fixed the PROBLEM when I got it, but I am UNABLE to remember how I fixed it, and I had to reinstall my OS recently. I have tried searching for drivers etc without success. When recording a video message in MSN messenger the video shows as upside down.

Asus G50VT (best buy)
Vista 64 bit
Webcam USB 2.0 1.3m UVC
Driver 6.0.6001.18000
date 6/21/06

If there is any other information that may help please let me know. I have not been able to find a program on my laptop that will allow me into camera settings to adjust to "flip" the picture. Any ideas please??

Thank you for your time!! The web cam flips over or has a swivel.In Messenger, check the camera settings for a checkbox for "Invert Image" or "Mirror Vertical."
The web cam is built into the laptop unfortunately so cant swivel it around . I tried the messenger edit webcam settings but there is no "invert" anymore.

Is there another program available that would allow me to correct and invert the picture through the webcam?

Thank you for the replies!! Asus G50VT webcam flipped issue, resolved

http://forums.techguy.org/digital-photography-imaging/912822-asus-g50vt-webcam-flipped-issue.html

generic webcam's image upside down

ASUSTeK forum (read post #10)

http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?id=20090603115153581&board_id=24&model=AF-200&page=1&SLanguage=en-us

ASUSTeK forum (read post #6)

http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?id=20081205033014421&board_id=3&model=X59SR&page=1&SLanguage=en-us





I cant thank you ENOUGH!!! The third link fixed the problem!!! I dont know why I didnt SEE that when I trolled their forums!

Thank you so much again!! Awesome input and help!!!

I am desperate for some help please. My onboard sound died (been verified and all that) so had to get a sound card to bypass. A trojan virus corrupted my system and I lost my driver for the sound card. How do I find out what or who made that sound card so I can get the driver for it?You can look in Device Manager (the easiest way) or you can download any one of a number of 3rd party apps to identify your hardware (belarc advisor, everest, etc)if you don't have windows xp media center I really don't want to hear anymore of this type of useless advice. if it was that simple I would have DONE it already!!!! there is NO device manager in my menus. each area has its own and nowhere can I find a list of what hardware i have on my boardI beg your pardon?I have talked and looked in all my menus and nowhere do I have a 1 all encompassing device manager. this is NOT my 1st computer.  I need to identify a sound card that was added after the origianl onboard sound stopped working since I no longer have the name of the company that made the card I don't know who to get the driver from. thats what I need to doFirst of all, watch your mouth. If you want help here lose the attitude.

Second, I don't care how many computers you've had. You came here because you couldn't figure it out yourself.

Third, go to START - RUN and type: devmgmt.msc and press ENTERWorst case scenario- that is, if you have a totally hooped system that doesn't even have device manager - is that you can take out the card and look at it. It will almost certainly have it's model number and manufacturer.


well sorry for the attitude if you don't want an attitude then I suggest you treat people with a little more class and respect and not look down on them since you can't figure it out either but you were treating me like an idiot so I figured you couldn't read as i said I was DESPERATE. that USUALLY tells observant people that the person has used up more than 1 option. I have tried 5 different 3rd party ID programs and found device manager under system and all have failed to identify my sound card. it comes up with unknown device. sorry to bother youDLoad install and run Speccy....FREEDo as BC_P suggested, pull the card.  Usually there's some kind of info silk screened on the card, even if you have to look up the FCC number.  The audio chip will be marked & is usually the best way to identify what you need.  Could be C-Media, could be Via, could be SB (Sound Blaster).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sound_card
http://www.fcc.gov/oet/ea/fccid/ok thank you as this is much more HELPFUL. I will try as BC suggested and do as others have also. wish me luck! and thank you for the help. hope no more is needed okk have tried all of the above. speccy failed to id the card "no audio card detected" and I did pull out the card hoping to see some kind of manufacture id but nothing shows except "made in china" and white sticker with the letter "D" in a diamond I think. Since it was a $10 card at Best buy like 5 years ago I guess I am s.o.l. and will have to get a NEW one. Thanks for all your help and suggestions. I just wish they had worked.Did you try googling the FCC ID# ? ?

However now that i think of it for a 5 year old card that set you back 10 Bucks i'd personally cut my losses and grab a new card myself...

Computer disadvantaged. Dell laptop, about a 2004, after running for a time, 45 mins, hour and a half, suddenly goes dead. Has a good battery. I'm wondering if it has a t-stat that is opening on a too-hot situation? Is there a fan that might not be working? I
see what looks like an air inlet on the bottom. I don't hear well but really don't hear a fan. Appreciate any help. Thanks. DixieflashDLoad install and run Speedfan....FREE.
Post a screenshot of your Temps.Don't know how to post a screen shot; Readings are: HDO 45C;   Temp 1  36C. Thanks for helping. DixieflashShould I set the Fan to Automatic? Quote from: dixieflash on December 25, 2010, 07:17:37 PM

Don't know how to post a screen shot; Readings are: HDO 45C;   Temp 1  36C. Thanks for helping. Dixieflash

Should I set the Fan to Automatic?

Speedfan says my hard drive analyzes normal, which is good. Also says max temp is 51, ave 41, min 27.

I propped the computer up an inch and set a small fan blowing into the intake; temp has dropped to 41,
so maybe the CPU running at or near 100% all the time is making it run hot, or the fan needs cleaning or oiling.
Is it a big deal to R&R the fan? I have experience with desktops but not laptops. Thanks. DF

Hi there everyone.

I've had this Dynex headset for a long time, and it has never given me any problems. It has a single earpiece on the side with the microphone, and connects to my computer through USB. My computer has an integrated Realtek chip, model ALC888. (The dynex headset appears to have a model number of 8K17A, although I would assume that's incorrect since google doesn't bring any results.)

Anyhow, pluging my new XBox 360 pc controller, and starting up Ventrillo, users tell me that they can't understand me over the static that's coming from my microphone. A little surprised, I closed ventrillo and opened Audacity, and began monitoring my microphone. Sure enough, it was generating static, albeit the weirdest kind I have ever heard.

My first step in trouble shooting was to check the connection. I tried a different USB port; no luck. I checked the WIRE itself, that didn't fix it either. I tried it in an entirely different computer, and it worked, so it must be something wrong with this computer.

I then tried UNINSTALLING all USB Audio Device drivers relating to this headset (hidden or otherwise), and then redectecting it. No luck. Even a restart didn't fix it.

I would use Windows Restore, however I DISABLED it due to low disk space and the fact that I would never need it (till now).

If anyone has any kind of advanced system troubleshooting I can use to figure out what may be causing this static to occur, that would be great.

Here's some info:

• OS: Windows XP Home SP3 (for both the working computer and the faulty one)
• Soundchip: Realtek High Definition Integrated Audio, model ALC888 (driver version 5.10.0.6235 on 11/2/2010)
• DirectX: Version 9.0c 4.09.0000.0904
• Information regarding the Dynex headset: Device id of Vid_0d8cPid_000cRev_0100MI_00, Mfg and Product IDs of 65535, type WDM, driver name usbaudio.sis, version 5.01.2600.5512, date 4/13/2008, provided by Microsoft

Get a plain microphone and plug it into the sound card mic input. Forget about using the USB microphone.

Glad I was able to help you.   

...what I guess is a conflict of some sort.. .. I am trying to make an external sound card ... work.  ...I do nothing else it will then play sound from, say, an MP3 file but it is distorted with pops and crackles.   

... I re-installed anything that i thought could conflict, same result.
I suspect a conflict as I tried the USB card on another computer and it was fine.

currently I have been having trouble keeping my cmos settings too my old server.  Thing is that I thought that it saved them out too a floppy cause I have too configure it that way.  I tested the cr-2032 an ended up that it didn't have a charge.  Thing is that I have no clue too get a replacement, what I do know is that its a solder tail an that the positive pins are 10 mm apart an that its a three pin connector.  Prosignia 300 Unitforgot too add if possible too get an holder for it.  Instead of haveing too remove the board each time too CHANGE it....what exactly don't you understand about replacing a CR-2032? What's a three-pin connector?quaxo, no cause this is a typical cr-2032.  Meaning that it connects too the motherboard in three places instead of two that is typically, seen know. Quote from: Slade on November 06, 2010, 08:59:11 AM

quaxo, no cause this is a typical cr-2032.  Meaning that it connects too the motherboard in three places instead of two that is typically, seen know.

yes, There's thousands of varitons an what not.  Trouble is that I dont know what exactly I looking for 

Of solder tail battery an holders.  Sadly, I cant at this time.

Thing is that I went too radio shack an the guy just gave me a part that could work.  When I went too install it, it was slightly larger then the pin layout.

Thats what causes parts too go bad or something else.

I got a Gift card To buy some ram from bestbuy...

Im upgrading from 1GB to 2GB possibly 4GB

(oh yeah will i see better performance with this upgrade?)

Im RUNNING vista.

When I look at there websight They offer ram at 667MHz and 800Mhz

I have a Acer Aspire 4520.

Thanks !If you are adding to your existing ram you might as well get the same as is already installed. The system will clock at the speed of the slowest installed ram. ALSO, although it's rare there is a POSSIBILITY of instability when using multiple ram modules with different speeds.The Acer Aspire 4520 needs DDR2 667 SDRAM. 800 MHz RAM would be a waste of money. It would run at 667 in that computer. You did not say what OS you are running but in general increasing RAM does lead to a performance increase. It won't make your cpu or disk DRIVES any faster though. To get the very best out of 4 GB you need a 64 bit operating system.



Quote from: Allan on December 25, 2010, 10:47:24 AM

If you are adding to your existing ram you might as well get the same as is already installed. The system will clock at the speed of the slowest installed ram. Also, although it's rare there is a possibility of instability when using multiple ram modules with different speeds.

The Acer Aspire 4520 needs DDR2 667 SDRAM. 800 MHz RAM would be a waste of money. It would run at 667 in that computer.

Going from 1 to either 2 or 4 GB? You may see some performance increase though it depends on your usage. Don't expect drastic results.

The more memory that is being used, the more efficient the system. Unused ram is wasted ram.

SO sence its so full all the time i should be able to see performance? When stuff like that?

Look, the bottom line is you can never have too much ram (as long as the system has the ability to use it, of course). So add the ram, it may very well help if your system isn't running smoothly now.

So your personal opinion is that you dont really see a boost in performance unless you use programs that require the ram?

oh yes my question was answered. the 667MHz is the speed I need.

Just had that last question for Allan

Hi, when i play a game (like NEED for speed world), my computer goes just fine.  Then it starts lagging, and i see that my cpu rates are going down (80%-95% to 5%-15%), which results in heavy lag!  It happens every other Minute.

SPECS:

Model: ASUS Republic Of Gamers G72GX RBBX05.

CPU: Intel core 2 duo (2.56 GHz)

GPU: NVidia GEforce GTX 260m CUDA 1GB

RAM: 6.00 GB

OS: Windows 7 UltimateCan you please post your temperatures using a program the HWMonitor or Speedfan.How do i do that?Download and install this: http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html.

Run it and it will GIVE you all the temperatures in your system.  Post them here, make sure to tell us if they are in Celsius or Fahrenheit

If that doesn't work you could try this program: http://download.cnet.com/SpeedFan/3000-2094_4-10067444.htmlTEMPS:

GPU: 187F

CORE 1: 135F

CORE 2: 140FI'm assuming that these are in Fahrenheit.  They do seem a little on the high side, could you also CHECK the temp from while you are playing a game: open hwmonitor, play game for a while and check the maximum temp recorded by hwmonitor.

I'd also check that all the fans in the system are running and are dust free.TEMPS:

GPU: 196F

CORE 1: 160F

CORE 2: 167F

GAME: Need for Speed: World

DETAIL: MAXIMUM
_______________________________________

Pretty high temps there. Quote from: bryan1998 on November 17, 2010, 05:05:34 PM

GPU: 196F...

My fan is in the rear of the laptop, so those "pads" won't help.

Do you really believe that 1.111 degree of "over" is critical? ...

so i have a Dell desktop computer and a TOSHIBA TV so i got a cable to connect the TWO when i turn the computer on the dell boot screen shows then the xp boot screen shows then there is a small glitch and the screen stays black iv tried connecting the TV to another computer we have and it works FINE and also iv tried connecting the dell to the computer monitor we have and it works on there so i think it has SOMETHING to do with the settings on the dell that don't like the tv Your post is virtually impossible to READ. Please use punctuation.

Have emachine modelT3958. During  a normal shut down i was unable to start it up, no power on light, no fan only light on MOTHER board (RED led)..Tried new power supply no luck....removed ram boards, fans, and other items and checked them out one by one...no luck Quote from: mudpop on December 27, 2010, 09:09:58 AM

During  a normal shut down i was unable to start it up

Have emachine modelT3958. During  a normal shut down i was unable to start it up, no power on light, no fan only light on mother board (red led)..Tried new power supply no luck....removed ram boards, fans, and other items and checked them out one by one...no luck

I want an OS HD.  Just have OS and applications and some games on it.  All other data goes on data drives.

VelociRaptor
10,000 rpm
16mb cache
150gb
sata 3.0 gb

or

WD
7,200 rpm
64mb cache
500gb
sata 3.0 gb

It's BASICALLY 10k rpm +16cache VS 7200rpm+64cache.

Who wins for desktop/gaming PC...OS/Application drive?

Thanks!ps
the 7200 is $20 cheaper.

or i could knock off another $20 and GET the 7200 w/32mb cacheI LIKE the WD myself....

I received a set of smaller headphones for Christmas with the two jack plugs, one for the headphones, the other for the microphone attached to the headphones. I plug them into the proper connection on my laptop and nothing, the sound does not transfer. Here is the dilema, I have a set of headphones with a USB plug and they work fine, as soon as I plug these in, it switches the sound over immediately. I tried another set of headphones with the jack style and they do not work either. I tried everything I know even by going into Control Panel>Sounds and switching to Headphones, Apply and Save, restarting the computer after changes, nothing seems to work. Does anyone know what the problem may be ?Do these sets of headphones you've tried have their own volume control or on/off switch?  Are you sure you did not plug the two plugs (mic and headphone) into the wrong jack/port?  Your computer should have a tiny symbol for mic and headphone beside those plug-in jacks, or some way of indicating which jack is for which plug.

Can you try the headphones on another computer to confirm that they work? Quote from: soybean on DECEMBER 27, 2010, 08:41:33 AM

Do these sets of headphones you've tried have their own volume control or on/off switch?  Are you sure you did not plug the two plugs (mic and headphone) into the wrong jack/port?  Your computer should have a tiny symbol for mic and headphone beside those plug-in jacks, or some way of indicating which jack is for which plug.

Can you try the headphones on another computer to confirm that they work?

What brand and model is your laptop?  Your OS?

Dell Inspiron E1505 running WIN XP

Media Control buttons on front:
http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/ins6400/en/om/about.htm#wp1107948

Something has turned Media Control buttons off, either Muted or Turned Volume Down.  They should have priority over software.

You said "...as soon as I plug these in, it switches the sound over immediately..."

Switches the sound over from what?

Chilimon: I assume you've tried Both of the Phono plugs on the right side (above the card reader I believe)?

what is the best thermal compound out there to put on any CPU computers?  Are you nu aware of then rules?
Religion is not allowed here. Just use what God told you. Quote from: jackal88k on December 26, 2010, 01:03:00 PM

what is the best thermal compound out there to put on any CPU computers? 

Arctic Silver.
Hands down....

Real laboratory tests have shown that almost any compound is more effective than just tried air trapped between the CPU and heat sink.

For example, you could go to the drugstore and buy a compound that contains zinc oxide and try it as a heat sink compound. Surprise! You try and try and you would find that there is virtually no difference between just plain zinc oxide compound and almost any other kind of compounded to think of.

Hi, I tried to set up my old pc for my son now that I have the peripherals he needed to use it. Only now, it does not even show bios.

specs
athlon xp 3200
Asus a7v400-mx
2gbs pc3200 [2x1gb]
500W psu [tested working]
xfx agp card [don't remember model]

What I've done so far
checked the system with a known working monitor [no response]
    tried this with agp card and onboard video
checked all connections to make sure I had them in all the way
 removed everything till it was just the psu,mobo,cpu left

What happens
When the power button is hit the mobo light and cpu fan start up. No boot information pops on screen. Monitor acts as if no signal. Keyboard lights flash in response to start up. No onboard beebs. I'm not sure if onboard speaker is enabled....

possibly relevant;
  COMPUTER was in 100% working condition till I stored it in april of 2009
  The only new equipment added after are 2 ide HDS and a different PSU. Everything else is untouchedRemove all HDD's and see if it will at least POST...
Also try SWAPPING in another known good PSU.When a PC is in storage for awhile, oxide can build up on some connectors.
Also, some boards work loose for various reasons.
CHECK all connections and PCI and AGP and Memory cards.
Keyboard lights indicate that it is mostly working.thank you for your replies. As I mentioned in my earlier post, I removed all hardware. That includes the hard dives as well. Since I had to put everything back in after that did not work...it gave me a chance to double check my connections.

so if the keyboard lights up...does that mean I should have at least a boot screen?

ok so I got this external cd rom drive that i bought used anyways. I NOTICED that the back ports had a port like the OLD parallel printer ports did but its a little bigger. THen I opened it and well that the ide ribbon cable was to a big ONE and the wierd thing is that the cd rom wasn't connected due to the wire being to big. What is this cable called? The normal cd has 40 or 29 pins this 50 pins? Am i able to still get this kind of cable and cd rom or do i have to do some cutting and soldering to change the cable to an actual parallel cable.

Any ideas? Its a blue LaCie Cd Rom. The power supply on t works for when i connected it and hit the switch the fan CAME on and the cd came to life. I want this to work for i have an old NEC Versa 2000c without usb or cd ROm.

i even found a pic =
http://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=http://interloper.com/graphics/storage/cdrw/lacie_detail.jpg&imgrefurl=http://livredor.hiwit.org/topic/search/cd-rw-drives.html&usg=__dAkQIWuiyncspA7ln-v1ayTLXqk=&h=497&w=520&sz=16&hl=en&start=89&zoom=1&tbnid=JMBMrBm_GN5oDM:&tbnh=144&tbnw=147&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dlacie%2Bexternal%2Bcd%2Brom%2Bdrive%2B16x10x40%2Bscsi%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dsafari%26rls%3Den%26biw%3D1279%26bih%3D620%26tbs%3Disch:10%2C2591&um=1&itbs=1&iact=rc&dur=322&ei=Fv0YTYuRJ8a8nAfm5IWvDg&oei=DP0YTf_6DY3ZnAfP4p31DQ&esq=2&page=6&ndsp=20&ved=1t:429,r:13,s:89&tx=104&ty=43&biw=1279&bih=620Looks like SCSI to me.yeah but bigger than thatNo. Pretty sure It's SCSI.



It is High Density Centronics 50-pin.  I had a bunch of those, gone now.  It was widely used on 1st gen Apple Macintosh.ok then u see the weird thing is is that since there 50 pin connectors the ide conector to the dc rom is bigger not fitting the ide connection found on the
cd rom. Do computer store still sell ide to scsi ADAPTER? The powersupply works on it so it is worth it depending on how much the adapted is.There's nothing weird about, you just don't understand.  It's not an IDE cable inside, it's 50-conductor SCSI, looks like a wide IDE.  AFIK, there was never a SCSI to IDE adapter.  The CDROM is SCSI.  They used to have SCSI ISA & PCI adapter cards.  Adaptec was the major manufacturer.  Some had 50-pin Centronics on the back.  Study up on SCSI & then come back.

Hey:

I'm having so many computer problems that I decided to LOOK for help.

Story:

My computer is a "Dell Dimension e521".

It was working great, until one day, I was cleaning the computer and accidentally the pins of the processor were bent and broken, so I bought a slightly better processor, so it started working again, with some RAM problems, but switching the RAMs fixed it.

Then I moved the computer to my new room, where it seems there's a lot of humidity because I live in front of the beach/sea, even though the weather is cold (A lot of electronics in my house stop to work, like TVs etc)

The RAM slots started to go bad, I originally had 2 GB of RAM, and there was a computer error (with beeps), so I removed one RAM and it worked again.

The RAM Slots were starting to fail, sometimes they worked  and sometimes not.

And one day I TURNED it on, and the power light just flashed without any fans working, nothing turning on.. NOTHING, like if the computer was dead, so I thought, "it might be the power supply", and magically the next day it revived and I continued using it.
For some DAYS it continued like that, sometimes working and sometimes not, until one day the power supply just completely died.

I replaced the power supply today, and now only just 1 RAM works, so instead of the original 2GB I had, I now only have 512 MB, because all the RAM slots stopped working, if I put a RAM in it, the computer gets RAM errors and doesn't goes to POST BIOS.

So now I only have 512 MB RAM.


But I think the reason why the power supply and motherboard stopped working is because of the humidity.

Right now the computer is working with the new power supply, but only one RAM slot is working, so I only have 512 MB, all the other slots make the computer fail to start or make beeps.


I'm scared that another thing will go bad because of this problem with the humidity.

-----------------------------------------


What should I do, is the motherboard the problem?, and is it because of the humidity?? (living in front of the beach/sea)??

How can I solve it?? Buy a new motherboard?? But what if the power supply and motherboard again fail because of the humidity, how can I solve that??


Help!Next time it is working, try downloading a Hardware Monitor Software(HW Monitor) and post a screenshot. It will also be better to mention certain activities as to why it CAUSES this issues(aside from temp).? Since you mention being careless on your processor having to get replaced, make sure the board here is not yet broken which tends to be a possibility based on your post. If you have a passive cooling system on your desktop, try opening the side case when using the machine and avoid wire/cable clogging when re-assembling. If as you say the issues with your electronic gadgets is a known phenomenon of your "humidity" conditions then that is what your emphasis has to be focused on. You are only for stalling the inevitable failures and loss of use until you address that. I can offer a possible assist to your specific issue with your computer (it probably will NOT resolve anything that has already failed) but it may help to delay or minimize your future negative humidity effects. Only when you are not using your computer and it is totally off contain it as tightly as possible in an enclosure that is impervious to moisture. Within the container with the computer place a cloth sack with about 8 ounces of silica jell crystals in it. When you cease using the computer always return it to that container. Silica can be obtained from most florists and/or hardware stores. It is a very effective moisture absorber. All the preceding presumes that you do not have an option to use your computer in another environment where your humidity is not PRESENT. You might also look into a single room dehumidifier for the room with your computer in it. Generally whole house dehumidifiers are not very effective in spite of the marketing that claims otherwise. They do not remove enough of the moisture.  truenorth Quote

But I think the reason why the power supply and motherboard stopped working is because of the humidity.

I think that's the bad thing about living near a beach.

I'm not sure if I am posting in the right place.

MOBO : MSI P55-GD65 1156 RT
VGA : MSI | N450GTS CYCLONE 1GD5/OC R
CPU : INTEL | QUAD CORE I7 870 2.93G R
MEMORY : 2x 2GB GSKILL RAM STICKS
HD : 1.5 TB SEAGATE ST31500341AS 7K 32 M %
PSU : ANTEC TRUE POWER 750WATT

Does my build look safe? lol Will I need extra cooling for the i7 processor?
Btw, yes or no, i7 generally is better than i5.
Have you booted it up?

Does it work?

If you've answered 'yes' to the above then its ok

well I haven't finish building it yet lol.

It just bothers me because some people commented on youtube saying this guy is dumb  because he USE the heatsink that came with his i7 instead of the EXPENSIVE ones you buy lol. Quote from: iusexp on December 29, 2010, 09:58:18 AM

well I haven't finish building it yet lol.

It just bothers me because some people commented on youtube saying this guy is dumb  because he use the heatsink that came with his i7 instead of the expensive ones you buy lol.

Hello, 

Im currently working on a new system build and was going to try and sell my old one.  I am just not sure what a fair price might be to ask for this system?  Could I get some ideas if you dont mind?  Please note this system doesn't come with a video card.

Xion 2 Black Pearl Case
Western Digital 160GB SATA HD with a fresh windows install
Core 2 2.66ghz
4 GB Corsair DDR2 Ram
ASUS P5DH Deluxe Motherboard
Kingwin MACH 1 800W Modular Power Supply (The one im using currently)
Ultra Sli ready 450 Watt Power Supply (This works 100% but I just ended up upgrading to the Kingwin)
Memorex DVD BurnerYou get more money selling the stuff one piece at a time.
Otherwise, you won't get much.
Unless you are living in a remote area an d somebody really wants it.You can buy better than that for 400 uk pounds with a years warranty. To be attractive it needs to be half that or less. That HDD is tiny. Does it come with Windows install disk, and is it legal and activated?


150 Bucks... Quote from: patio on December 28, 2010, 04:20:36 PM

150 Bucks...

I have been outbid!

No reason for distasteful remarks.

Meaning what, exactly?

His quote saying "I have been outbid!"

Hes acting like im selling a broken microwave oven or something 

150 is rather steep, even for a working microwave.

Unless it's gold-plated.

either way, 150 sounds about right for the listed system, since the purchaser will need to get their own card as well.

I'm very curious to know how being outbid in an auction has anything to do with a broken microwave.  An odd conclusion indeed.

Hi friend,

my monitor is turned off with in SEC of TURNING ON.how can we RECTIFY this issue.This is out of warranty of Dell .Is it a Laptop or Desktop? Is the monitor the only one shutting down and not the whole PC? Do you had any previous power option adjustment?hi jason2074,


It is desktop .your Monitor only shutting down not PC.Till now i didn.t try anythingTry a different display (or try the display in QUESTION on a different system) to see if the problem is with the display or SOMETHING elsei tried that is problem with LCD monitorWell, there you go. Thanks for posting back.

i have a dell precision 380 with two 80 gig hard DRIVES. I am running WINDOWS 7 pro - 64 bit.  After attempting to replace HD #2 with a larger drive and finding it impossible to accomplish WITHOUT the OS disk (which I don't have), I now wonder if i can hook up via sata cables the purchased hard drive in a bay under my dvd burner. Will this work well?
I know I can buy a case and use in usb mode but I wanted a little cleaner looking install.

thanks.You should have this information on  back or side of your Dell

With that info, go to the support area and find all the information you need for your machine, including how to get into the BIOS and SPECIFY what devices are available.
http://support.dell.com


Shouldn't be any problem, this is the motherboard:

Looks like 4 SATA connectors.  Internal SATA drives will be 20X faster than external USB.
Do you intend on transfering the OS to the new drive?No it will be just for backup/storage. I don't have a copy of win-pro 7 anyway. this is sort of a work around.
all sata ports are enabled as well.So what exactly are you asking here ? ? adding a HDD is nothing...
Where it goes also can always be configured. Quote from: bayflyer on December 29, 2010, 01:35:54 PM

i have a dell precision 380 with two 80 gig hard drives. I am running windows 7 pro - 64 bit.  After attempting to replace HD #2 with a larger drive and finding it impossible to accomplish without the OS disk (which I don't have), I now wonder if i can hook up via sata cables the purchased hard drive in a bay under my dvd burner. Will this work well?
I know I can buy a case and use in usb mode but I wanted a little cleaner looking install.

thanks.

I recently received a used Compaq Presario 2100 Notebook for my birthday, and its performance is less than satisfactory. I have to keep it plugged in because when it runs on BATTERY power alone, even if it says it has 1 1/2 hours of battery left, it shuts down after about half an hour. I usually put the computer in standby when I'm not using it. Also, after about an hour's use, the computer will shut down with no warning. If I try to reboot it, it shuts down again before it even loads the screen that says "Compaq". I have to wait 5-10 minutes before it will turn on and run, and then it will shut down again within 30 minutes. I've also noticed that the notebook with get very hot after some time of using it, but I'm not sure whether or not this is standard for laptops. I researched it ONLINE and found that the battery for my computer was recalled in 2005. I checked the battery bar-code and it begins with L0, so it should apply to the recall. So what I'm wondering is whether or not I am still able to receive a free replacement battery or if it's too late. I put my data into the HP website and it said that "your battery is not affected or is not a part of the replacement program". Is this true, or is HP WRONG? If I'm not eligible for a battery replacement, what are some suggestions to improve the quality of my LAPTOP?

Some other info, if necessary:
I use a Windows XP Operating System
I mainly use my laptop for internet browsing and word processing, with a few games here and there. I would watch videos, but the quality is too crappy.
I use 11.7 GB out of my 27.9 GB capacity

Any help is appreciated and I thank you in advance!My guess is that it is too late.
Was the laptop made in 2004?
That first recall was some time ago.
Quote

Description: The recalled lithium ion rechargeable battery packs are used with various HP and Compaq notebook computers (see list below). The recalled battery packs are a subset of those manufactured March 2004 through September 2004, and will have a bar code label starting with GC, IA, L0 or L

The following notebooks are affected in this battery recall:
HP Pavilion: dv2000, dv2500, dv2700 (body style pictured below), dv6000, dv6500, dv6700, dx6000, dx6500, dx6700, dv9000, dv9500, dv9700
http://www.betanews.com/article/HP-extends-massive-battery-recall-for-overheating-notebooks/1274475837

Heylo guys,
I have a DELL studio 1557 with i7 core, 4 gb of ram. The problem i the computer often shutsdown due to overheating. its ideling at 70 degrees ish and i often have to prop it up with a book underneath to prevent it to overheat.
Is there any way to resolve this? Can i somehow slow down the cpu at idle TIME?(checked bios, nothing helps)...

ThxOverheating on what point? Make sure laptop's fan is working(properly) by using a HW Monitor software. You could also use a Fancooler(USB External Fan) to help dissipate heat.When was the last time you cleaned it out with a can of compressed air?

Are all of your fans working?The computer works for a bit and then SHUTS down. when in idle the fan makes a LOT of noise and is continously running. the table it sits on is very hot.

btw thx for the quick replies!
Quote from: JJ 3000 on December 28, 2010, 10:19:37 PM

When was the last time you cleaned it out with a can of compressed air?

I have an HP Touchsmart tm2 tablet PC. I use Windows 7. Oftentimes when I leave it running, but close the lid, when I return and open it up, a bunch of windows of other programs are running. These aren't pop-ups from the internet, they are other programs on my computer (files on desktop, Word, Excel, Adobe files, etc.) Its almost like like the cursor floats around and clicks on programs and files while the lid is closed. Its not a BIG deal, more of a nuisance, but it has opened my Quicken where I have all of my financial info stored (granted I have to enter a password to do much, but I'm afraid it might change something sensitive in my finances or in the computer settings). I have had the computer for about 6 months. I don't remember this happening before I dropped it, but I did drop the computer on my hardwood floor about 1 month after getting it. The computer works FINE still, but this problem seems to have gotten worse lately though.  Can anyone help me exorcise the ghost in my machine?My recommendation for the  "exorcise" your "ghost" is to dig up your purchase receipt and exercise your warranty. If you did NOT mention that you had dropped it (providing of course no PHYSICAL evidence of IMPACT is evident) it will probably greatly enhance your repair/replacement warranty success. Getting worse is your clue. If you were fortunate enough to have purchased the computer with a credit card then you may have better luck as usually credit card warranties do NOT exclude a drop. So get on it and see what you can accomplish via warranty. Because your concerns for a ghost (which relates to something deceased) may evolve to be the next phase of your computer. truenorth  Wipe and a clean install after backups exorcises any "GHOSTS"...

I have a dual monitor an one that just has VGA.  I have one connected too a kvm switch an the other is just DVI connected.  The unit that
I want too attempt too dual has a video splitter that takes the VGA of the dual monitor an the kmv so I can see it on the right an left.
However, both are displaying the same things an wondered if I couldn't change that with an app or something.  Not really too worried if
I cant get it EASILY working.I'm not sure I UNDERSTAND the DETAILS of your situation since your comments are very poorly written.  TWO monitors connected to a splitter will obviously display the same thing since they receive the same input from the computer.  If you want to be able to display different apps on the two monitors, which seems to be what you want, then you need a video card with two outputs, typically a VGA port and a DVI port, or perhaps two DVI ports. 

Do you have a video card with two outputs?  If so, what type of outputs are they?squall - you're starting to post nonsense again. Forewarned is forearmed. Quote from: soybean on December 30, 2010, 11:11:46 AM

I'm not sure I understand the details of your situation since your comments are very poorly written.  Two monitors connected to a splitter will obviously display the same thing since they receive the same input from the computer.  If you want to be able to display different apps on the two monitors, which seems to be what you want, then you need a video card with two outputs, typically a VGA port and a DVI port, or perhaps two DVI ports. 

Do you have a video card with two outputs?  If so, what type of outputs are they?

Hate when that happens. My Aunt Flo had the exact same problem.

What        I do not need to know of such things.  I am only stateing that I may have found something that could potentially work.

I have a Intel SE7210TP1-E Sever Board I just recently got a new PSU cause the other one was having trouble were it would restart the unit at least three times.  I think this is the unit I got http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4252527&CatId=1079 the thing is that it has a twenty four pin connector a separate four pin for the CPU.  The manual states that it has a six pin connector I think an my MB says that it has the connector but, its not working with it.  Its working but, just kind of wondered.Give us the model # of your motherboard.
Quote from: Slade on December 29, 2010, 04:02:41 AM

I have a Intel SE7210TP1-E Sever Board

http://download.intel.com/support/motherboards/server/se7210tp1-e/sb/tpsse7210tp1e20.pdf

Intel® Server Board
SE7210TP1-E
Technical Product Specification
..........

page 8 revision 2,0

(bottom of page)

✏ NOTE
Use only ATX12V or EPS12V compliant power supplies with the server board SE7210TP1-E.
ATX12V and EPS12V power supplies have an additional power lead that provides required
supplemental power for the Intel Pentium 4 processor. The board will not boot if you do not
connect the 20-pin (or 24-pin) and 4-pin (or 8-pin) leads of ATX12V or EPS12V power supplies
to the CORRESPONDING connectors.
Do not use a standard ATX power supply. The board will not boot with a standard ATX power
supply.

its not working with it.  Its working but, just kind of wondered.

Does this apply?

Huh!?  No, cause this was completely helpful an I wasnt aware of it.  I seen the connection an thought that it would of been able too use it.
It works fine other wise.

I need some instruction on how to make my DVD RW AD-7530A (Optiarc) play DVD's from any region.

I have DVD's from the USA, Germany, China, Mexico, and elsewhere.

I was able to change my TELEVISION's DVD player to all-region, but I am clueless as to how to convert this one (INTERNAL on a Compaq C-500 with WINDOWS Vista Basic).

Can someone help?

 

[You may contact me also at: dwilliams_72206 (at) yahoo (DOT) com]http://www.ehow.com/how_7293364_make-computer-dvd-drive-region_free.htmlAlternatively, I USE AnyDVD by slysoft, which has worked like a charm from day-1.

http://www.slysoft.com/en/anydvd.html

My son has a Toshiba Satellite laptop with Windows Vista. When it turns on you can see the Toshiba logo, and can get into the setup menu by PUSHING F2, but when it tries to boot up, the screen goes black and the cursor disappears. I am not very COMPUTER savy, so any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks in advance. What is new or different since the last time everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?Nothing new, it did the same thing a couple of days ago, but it finally rebooted. This time nothing....Can you get to SAFE mode (when the system first boots begin tapping the F8 function key until you get to the Advanced Boot Options Screen - then choose safe mode)?After letting it sit for an hour, the screen came up with the how do you WANT to start windows...I started in safe mode and a screen came up with a long list of drivers loading, and it froze on that screenOkay. Sounds like a hardware PROBLEM. I could make a few guesses but laptop hardware is definitely not my area of expertise so let's wait for someone more knowledgeable than I to jump in.Ok thanks...if you know of anyone please send them  my way

My LAPTOP is overheating and snapping off.  It seems that things such as copying/cutting & pasting, changing fonts/colors are the straws that break the camel's back.  Is there some system cache that I'm supposed to clear?  I'm confused about terminology.  Am I wrong that system cache is RAM and that it clears automatically when the computer is TURNED off? No, nothing you are supposed to do. If it's shutting off there is a hardware problem - either ram (you can download and run memtest: http://www.memtest86.com/), power supply, motherboard, or something else. I'm not a hardware expert, but being New Year Day I'm not sure how many others are around so I want to give you some input and a place to start. Quote from: Starwind51 on January 01, 2011, 09:26:39 AM

My laptop is overheating

you can download and run memtest

How do you know this?

I have had an ATI Radeon 5870 graphics card for about a year now. Yesterday, it started to make this annoying and loud humming noise, I have never heard before. I have tried to turn the fan down to its lowest setting, but it still makes the sound. I have tried opening the computer and manually spinning the fan, but I don't hear any noise, it only happens around 20% fan speed (which is the DEFAULT lowest speed). I bought this computer through Dell, so the card has no warranty for ATI itself.
 Things I have tried: I tried peeling off the ATI sticker on the fan to see if I could add lubricant to the fan bearing, but there wasn't a well to put oil into. I tried taking the card out of the computer and blowing dust out of it and then reseating the card firmly. None of this seems to have worked.
 The sound is loud enough to be unbearable for long periods of time. I have no idea what to do. Should I try calling ATI support even though I have no warranty for the card? Quote from: you878 on January 03, 2011, 11:05:37 AM

I have had an ATI Radeon 5870 graphics card for about a year now. Yesterday, it started to make this annoying and loud humming noise, I have never heard before. I have tried to turn the fan down to its lowest setting, but it still makes the sound. I have tried opening the computer and manually spinning the fan, but I don't hear any noise, it only happens around 20% fan speed (which is the default lowest speed). I bought this computer through Dell, so the card has no warranty for ATI itself.
 Things I have tried: I tried peeling off the ATI sticker on the fan to see if I could add lubricant to the fan bearing, but there wasn't a well to put oil into. I tried taking the card out of the computer and blowing dust out of it and then reseating the card firmly. None of this seems to have worked.
 The sound is loud enough to be unbearable for long periods of time. I have no idea what to do. Should I try calling ATI support even though I have no warranty for the card?

ATi only produce the chipsets for the graphics cards, manufacturing companies like XFS, Sapphire, Asus, etc; Create their own expansion cards containing the chipset, the cooling systems are also designed by the card manufacturer.

Not so; ATI make graphics cards under their own name and they also supply chipsets to other makers. That is why I asked whether the card was "made by" or "powered by" ATI.

I see from your sig that you don't know how to use semicolons - you don't use a capital letter to start the next word after a full or semicolon.

My HDTV that I have been using fpor a while with no problems now says "Not Supported Format" after my gf changed the resolution SETTINGS. I understand that I must go back in and change whatever she changed back but how do I get my screen back when i can't see anything???I don't know much about this, but I can think of one thing.

You may have to go back to original factory settings (DEFAULT). Sometimes in the manual it will show you how to reset and go back to default. Often that is done by holding two buttons at the same time (on the TV or the remote) for some given number of seconds.

Sometimes the manufacture does not put this in the manual but will put it on their website. Or you may have to call them.

Hope this helps,
Harry

EDIT:
I have reread your post and now realize you may mean that settings were changed on your COMPUTER and not the TV. In that case, resetting the TV to factory defaults may not help.Well, SINCE its most LIKELY the computers resolution has been changed and i don't know what OS  your using here is how to change it for XP         http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/using/setup/personalize/resolution.mspx

and here is how to do it on vista/7

http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows-vista/Change-screen-resolution

Hopefully this will help

I have a good internal burner in my (Pentium II) desktop I no longer use. How(if at all) can I connect it to the USB DRIVE of a newer laptop (without a built-in burner)? Thanks in advance to everybody who may be willing to enlighten me .Is it a standard IDE type of interface? If so, you can use an external adapter with power supply. Do you want it in a case?
Look on NewEgg for
IDE to USB Drive adapter kit
Or even Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Convertor-Adapter-DreamBargains-Neckstrap/dp/B003BHKP0E
If you in the UK, try the UK eBay.   

IMGO these devices are not very reliable. Too easy to break. But if you have a laptop/notebook, it is what you have to do.Thanks a lot. I also FOUND a nice video tutorial on this: http://www.cooldrives.com/saandidehadr1.html

If this is not a reliable setup, then maybe just to buy a new external optical drive with USB connector... By the way, external optical drives get power from the laptop (if I am correct); it makes it even more convenient. Quote

By the way, external optical drives get power from the laptop (if I am correct); it makes it even more convenient.

Hello Folks,

I ordered and received a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus. It will not fit in my case because of the fan mounted on the side panel of the case. I'm a little leery about buying another cooler. I don't want to go into the CPU cooler resale business.

I'm thinking about ordering the Cooler Master GeminII S. It's only about 3 inches high, so that should be no problem. My main concern is that it may interfere with the RAM. I have read that the memory slots on the GA-890GPA-UD3H are a little closer to the CPU than is usual. Does anyone know of any problem fitting this cooler on this motherboard?

Gigabyte GA-890GPA-UD3H
Phenom II X2 555 BE
Thermaltake case V9 Black  VJ400G1N2Z

HarryWhy do you think you need to replace your current cooler?  Do you have software installed to monitor temperatures? 

The fan on the side panel is close to the CPU, right? So, it aids the cooling of the CPU.  How many case fans, other than the one on the side panel, are installed in your computer?Hi Soybean,

Sorry, I should have explained more. I put some of this stuff in an earlier post. I guess I thought everyone would REMEMBER me.

I'm doing my first computer build. Haven't got all the components yet, or started assembly. Waiting for antistatic stuff before I touch too much.

I do have the case and the cooler. (Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus - 159mm tall) Without the motherboard in the case, I can hold the cooler in its approximate position. Guessing that the the top of the CPU would be about 0.5 inch higher than the standoffs in the case. This puts the top of the cooler right at the side panel of the case, maybe even touching. The side panel of the case (Thermaltake V9) has a 230mm fan that is 0.75 inch thick. So my cooler is a good 0.75 inch too tall. The case was described as a large gamer case, so I thought I would be alright with the large cooler.

I have ordered a Phenom II X2 555 BE. I hope to unlock hidden cores and will do only a small amount of OC. So, I probably don't need a giant cooler anyway. The Gemin II is low profile and supposed to provide good cooling. I think it will fit onto my motherboard without interfering with anything. My RAM, PNY XLR8, is pretty low profile also. Just looking for someone who has tried this cooler on this motherboard.

I have 4 fans. Large one in the side panel, large one in the top of the case, one in the front, and one in the back. Option for one behind the motherboard.Whats wrong with the OEM stock cooler ? ?I don't have the CPU yet, but I have read that a Black Edition CPU does not come with a stock cooler. They are expected to be overclocked, so you must provide your own cooler.All Retail packaged CPU's Since at least the Pentium 2/K6-2 come with a Cooler and a little PACK of paste. There are no exceptions to this rule.

Of course if you get OEM CPU's, then it might be different, but then again if you get a OEM CPU you pretty much just get  the CPU- no manuals or install instructions... but even then they usually come with the stock coolers.

The stock cooler might not be SUFFICIENT for overclocked CPUs, but unless you do plan to overclock it will work fine with the stock cooler at the stock speed (and sometimes a little higher).


Quote

It will not fit in my case because of the fan mounted on the side panel of the case.

So here's the situation: Whilst running games I occasionally end up with a distorted screen. It's quite hard to explain what it looks like and I can't get a screen shot as any image looks clear and normal. It's sort of a ripple effect but with straight vertical ripples down the screen. A friend has stated that I might be referring to 'screen ripping'.

Up until now I have assumed that it was just a driver issue, but today I went through the normal procedure I use to fix it [disable and re-enable display drivers]. But after disabling the drivers the distortion remained, the distortion disappeared after full drivers where re-initalised.

Now this indicates to me a hardware fault of some sort. The graphics card was running at a stable 50C today so it's not HEAT related. There are no other negative effects to the system during a distortion aside things being difficult to read.

[My Profile PC]What is new or different since the LAST time everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?It's called "Screen tearing" and it usually happens when the refresh rate of the screen is not synced up with the framerate. Best way to solve this would be to enable the vsync option. Quote from: BC_Programmer on December 12, 2010, 09:51:03 AM

It's called "Screen tearing" and it usually happens when the refresh rate of the screen is not synced up with the framerate. Best way to solve this would be to enable the vsync option.

What is new or different since the last time everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?

Hello, I have a problem with my mouse, when I use the right-click button on my mouse in games like, Unreal, Heroes of Might and Magic 5 etc, it moves my cursor to down to the right. And that is making my gaming experience when playing FPS games quite bad. I was hoping that someone COULD tell me what might be causing this. so to sum up on what I have tested:

- It is not the mouse I am using, I have tried with 3 different mice. All of them from 3 different companies, Razer, Logitech and some other.
- it is not happening in all games, it does not happen in World of WARCRAFT, but does happen in Unreal and Heroes of Might and magic 5.
- I have tried to change all of my mousesettings in the mousesettings, but none of that seems to be causing the problem.

If anyone has any suggestions or ideas I would very much appreciate it!

Best Regards Winnerburger.I'm a beginner at this, but I will give it a shot.

Could it be your mouse driver? Did you load a mouse driver at some time? If you did, you might try reloading the mouse driver and using the mouse that goes with that driver.

Perhaps you have to remove a mouse driver that you loaded, but I wouldn't know how to do that. After removing the driver, maybe THINGS will work. If not, reload the driver and see what happens.

Remember, this is from a beginner, so TAKE it with a grain of salt. Perhaps check with more knowledgeable people whether this is GOOD advice.

Harry

I'm not sure if anyone else on here has attempted too do this or not.  I just kind of have a few simple questions about doing this.  So
far I have I suppose what I will as the bottom of the case built, GOT a sheet of acrylic roughly that size an ROUNDED up a few parts.  Things
such as a fan, MB + CPU an Heatsink, Front Panel CONNECTORS an suppose a way to easily mount the board.  Know when I go an get too
where I need to do some of the things such as connect the Ir's which I don't have a whole lot of currently would I be able too use only
a couple?  Like three or four an they be good for like so many inches or so till it reaches the other one or if I really need a whole mess of
them.  Also, when I go to mount the acrylic if I cant run screws into four corners of it an not have it affect the display.  Some pictures please?
Send them as attachments.
Click below where is says Additional Options...)what for pic's?     I'll have too look but, I think I seen an artical about doing this some where as well in pc mag or something.

computer info: HP- AMD Athlon 64x2, MOBO: ASUS A8M2N-LA supports 4xATA-150 diskdrives, SeagateBarracuda SATA 360GB HDD, DDR2 PC-4200 4G RAM. Nvidia Geforce 8800GTS. Corsair 550W PS.

Recently, I tried to install a Maxtor DiamondMax 200GB HDD. The Maxtor HDD did not have SATA connectors, only the standard. I connected the new HDD to the mobo via the PATA cable. The cable was plugged into the blue slot on the mobo, the hdd at the end of the cable, took out the jumper based on the instructions to make the new HDD slave. The computer recognized it, i updated the driver for Maxtor because this was a brand new HDD that was 2 years old, i partitioned it and it works.

The problem arise when i turn on the computer, it fail to recognize or boot up from the new slave HDD, i see a blank/black screen with a blinking cursor mark. I have to turn off the computer, turn it back on, load up the boot menu and manually select the original/master HDD with the OS to boot correctly. One thing to mention is, when
in the boot menu, the two HDD are shown on two lines; 1st Drive Maxtor(slave), 3rd Drive Seagate(master).

Seeing this headache, i decided to UNINSTALL the new slave HDD. I disabled the HDD under DEVICE manager, it removed the HDD drive from "my computer". depower the computer, unplug HDD and cables. Restart computer.
The computer fail to boot up, leaving a blank/black screen with a blinking cursor mark. Restart computer, enter boot menu, select the remaining HDD to boot, takes a long time to boot up 10X the normal time, though the computer works, i just need to do if i turn off the computer.

Is there something i can do to remedy this? Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks.If you want it to boot from this drive....and i think i read that correctly....it should be jumpered master. Quote from: hkpowah on December 30, 2010, 06:38:48 PM

...
1.  The problem arise when i turn on the computer, it fail to recognize or boot up from the new slave HDD, i see a blank/black screen with a blinking cursor mark.
2.  I have to turn off the computer, turn it back on, load up the boot menu and manually select the original/master HDD with the OS to boot correctly.  One thing to mention is, when in the boot menu, the two HDD are shown on two lines; 1st Drive Maxtor(slave), 3rd Drive Seagate(master).
3.  i decided to uninstall the new slave HDD. I disabled the HDD under device manager, it removed the HDD drive from "my computer". depower the computer, unplug HDD and cables. Restart computer.
4.  The computer fail to boot up, leaving a blank/black screen with a blinking cursor mark. Restart computer, enter boot menu, select the remaining HDD to boot, takes a long time to boot up 10X the normal time, though the computer works, i just need to do if i turn off the computer...

1. sorry i mistyped, it tries to boot up the computer using the new slave HDD, which it should not do. even though i set it as slave already.
2. there are three screens that i can access from the splash screen when the comp boot up. boot menu allow me choose that drive the computer should be booting from.
3.ok
4. i tried to find that screen but no luck even under BIOS setup, i went through everypage of the setup, maybe im just not looking at the right place? CMOS setup is only accessible from the splash screen correct?
5. Windows XP Home Premium Service Pack 1 2007

I've recently completly wiped my Hard Drive due to some Malware problems. After reinstalling windows and whatnot I start installing my drivers. So far, everything is fine. There is only one problem: I have absolutely no sound.

Usually what I would do after formatting/wiping HD is go on the website of the company that maneufactured my computer, a small company called "Seanix", and all I had to do was enter my computer's serial number and they'd give me the driver or whatever that would allow me to have sound. Seanix has just recently gone bankrupt and their website is now offline, so I cannot do so anymore (http://seanix.com/).

I've installed many driver programs and according to them all of my drivers are up to date, but I have absolutely no sound. If it can help, I remember there being a sound manager called "realtek" or something in the lower right PERMANENTLY. I tried installing the codecs that are on the Realtek website and still no results.

I've been up for quite a while trying to fix this problem, if you have any idea how to help me, I would be deeply appreciative. If you need any more info, just tell me.

Thank you! Quote from: smashthestate on January 02, 2011, 10:51:36 PM

if you need any more info, just tell me.

Thank you!

Hello,

Does thermal grease on a CPU dry out? If so, how long does that generally take?that's a good question. I know for a fact that thermal pads turn to dust. Don't know about pastes.Some thermal greases may dry out over a period of time. They can set hard and make it hard to take off the heat sink. If that happens, you could damage the processor if you force it. In that case run the processor for a few minutes to soften the grease. The period of time before drying out would be years. Most machines will go through their normal LIFETIME with the original application. Reasons to reapply are when removing/installing the heatsink, if WORKING on an overheating problem, or if the pc is older than you are.

oldest computer I had was a year older then me...

but it was too old to need any special cooling solution  Quote from: BC_Programmer on January 02, 2011, 01:35:27 PM

oldest computer I had was a year older then me...

but it was too old to need any special cooling solution 

oldest computer I had was a year older then me...

but it was too old to need any special cooling solution 

I think some people over estimate the role that thermal grease plays in CPU cooling.

Does that mean i have bad thermal compound?

if I had a PC that was seriously overheating I would be investigating other things first such as case ventilation, clogged fan/heatsink blades, fan condition and operation, etc.

160~200 degrees

Hi all

Apologise if missed the obvious not too good with computers

I have a compaq presairo cq60 with windows vista. Got a SMART failure message saying replace harddrive. I have pyshically replaced hard drive ( checked in shop that new one compatable) and put in the
recovery disk. Starts to run with hp recovery manager then at 40% it
give error message, error 1005 CONTACT hp if continues. Laptop then
shuts down.

Don't know if I missing something as I SAY not too good with computers

Any advice

Thanks
And have you contacted HP?Have tried but BANK holiday ( I'm in the Uk) need to sort asap as girlfriend has assignment due in at college!!!Well, I'm sure their support forums are up and running. No harm in posting there as well as here.Ok cheers will TRY

Thanks

Hey thanks for checking out this thread.

I've been having a lot of trouble as of late with my new graphics card. The ati radeon hd 5670.
For a while it worked pretty well but after attempting to update the drivers a couple weird things started to happen.
The resolution on startup would set itself to 720x480 and the only way to set it to something ELSE was by using ccc.
Going into the regular windows display didn't give me any other options besdies 720x480.
I've attempted to delete drivers, rollback, and I just finished reformating and reinstalling everything.
I can set it to it's normal resolution but the minute I enter a program that would change the resolution it's back to 720x480 or even lower.
It hasn't overheated, i've kept a close eye on it's temp and it's never gone above 58 c.
Could it be a defective card? I have no idea but since i've only had it for a week it should be under warranty.

hd 5670
xp sp 3
asus m2n-e
2.0 gz dualcore
4 gigs of ram (only using 3.4 because of xp)

If you need anymore information please don't hesitate to ask. Any help would be appreciated  Try reinstalling the drivers that shipped with the card...
That being said if it still acts up i'd exercise your warranty...Ya I tried using the drivers from the cd that came with the card. Caused a blue screen actually o-o which was rather strange. stop c0000la fatal system error =\ sounds bad
I did install the latest from the website which I had no PROBLEM doing. Besides the current problem that is.I'd return it tomorrow...No other ideas huh? Well alright i'll return it. Thanks for the help.
Edit..
Well I somehow got it to save the resolution to 1980x1080 but it still won't let me set it to above 640x480 in game.
It ALSO looks like I could play games windowed if I manually set the resolution through the launch options but the second I hit fullscreen it's back to 640x480.Update: Well I attempted to play a game the card should easily be able to run and was getting less than 10 fps. So I am going to go with you being right about the card.
I'll return it later today. Thanks again for your help.No problem...

Best of Luck with the new one.Well after a couple weeks I finally got my replacement card and nothing has changed. I'm.....out of ideasCan I ask where you got this card from?

have you tried using driver sweeper and installing again from the driver CD that came with the card?
http://www.guru3d.com/category/driversweeper/Ok finally got it to work. All I did was completely ERASE everything ati related and install from the cd. It seems, for some odd reason, that I literally have to stick with the drivers from the cd or I START having problems. I attempted to update to the latest version and the same problem I had before started again.
I got this card from newegg.com but it seems to me that most of this is just my mistake.
So I guess this is sort of solved.

Sorry for wasting your time with something that was my fault.Newer drivers are not always better drivers...

Glad to hear you got it sorted.

Ok for a while ago I got my new motherboard M4A79T deluxe, when I got that I also got Windows 7, but here is the problem my USB PORT aren't working right...  I had some weird problems with my USB mouse but it seems like it got fixed somehow.

But now when I'm trying to get big files (50+ MB) my USB port just crash... it just LOSE all connection to it (The USB is working) it only work to transfer small files or to use a U3 USB, I don't know if it is the Windows 7 64 BIT or if it is my new motherboard. I have tested with all my USB port so they are not broken, and there seems to be none USB DRIVERS ETHER...

So anyone know why this would happen? I had the same problem and use the file indicate for nvidia e solve my problem. I have the same motherboard

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/976972

http://social.answers.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/w7hardware/thread/b2071084-3401-4515-91a0-9802402d38ad

I was cleaning out my basement today & ran across my old HP Pavilion ze4900 laptop & I remembered it cut off one day & just never came on again. I toyed around with it to no avail. I have another laptop now but I would like to get my files (MUSIC, pics, videos, etc..) off of it but I need to get it to turn on.  Here's the thing: When I tried to turn it on, the battery light turned yellow & blinked, basically telling me it wasn't charged. So I fully charged it (battery light turned green, letting me KNOW it was fully charged), hit the power button & it blinked 3 times....but didn't COME on/boot up. Sooooooo is this a hardware problem or do I just need a new battery? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!Have you tried booting the laptop with the adapter in, but no battery?

It could also be a motherboard fault that is CAUSING it to be unable to boot.

On a positive note, you do not require the laptop to be operational to recover the data.
The hard drive can be removed and inserted into a laptop or a desktop MACHINE using an adapter from ebay or newegg, or you could contact your local computer store about one.

My d521 will not POWER up.  If I unplug the 4 PRONG connector right at the memory SLOTS, then the power supply STARTS but the computer still will not boot.  I don't know how to trouble shoot the mother board.  I have new memory installedIs this occurrence happening right after you installed your new memory? truenorth Dell has no listing for a Dimension D521.  I think the connector you are referring to is known as the P4 connector; it provides ADDITIONAL +12VDC to the motherboard.  It's possible the power supply has failed.

http://www.helpwithpcs.com/courses/power-supply-basics-inc-pinouts.htm

I just bought a new tower (Windows 7) and hooked it up to the monitor, and the print seems just a little bit blurry. It isn't bad, but after I made sure I didn't have a beer, the print seems just a little off. Is there something on the monitor I should adjust, or is there something under control panel I should be using on Windows? Flat panel or crt? DVI or VGA? Not sure. It's a 17 inch LCD flat panel Viewsonic VA720. Hope this helps. ThanksYou could try pressing the menu button of your monitor for the menu page to appear. Use Auto adjust or on your desired Color/Image settings. Then on your OS resolution settings or background. You could also first try other monitor before making any adjustment to check the difference.Some monitors (especially LCDs) have a NATIVE resolution, that everything is the sharpest in. doing a quick search shows...
Quote

Give your eyes the pleasure of watching clear pictures and images thanks to the high 450:1 contrast ratio of the Viewsonic VA720. The native resolution of 1280x1024...

... It's a 17 inch LCD flat panel Viewsonic VA720...

It's normal for LCD displays, not an issue for CRT's.

I beg to differ. I have a whole bunch of lcd screens and because my old eyes don't care for small type, I don't use the native resolution for any of them - in fact, for the most part they all are set a different resolutions. And the type is perfectly clear on all of them.

And the fact that a display is set to other than the native resolution does not mean that type will not be clear - to anyone.

Yes. It does. It's the nature of the technology. Except in some very rare instances, such as using 640x480 on a 1280x960 screen, since that will simply make each pixel in the image take four pixels on the LCD.

No, it doesn't.

You're implying that it's all in my head? that I have a special gift to make believe blurry text even when it isn't there?

On the contrary, you seem to be implying that I don't know blurry text from clear text.

My computer has been crashing for the last two weeks and not starting up. It will just die for no apparent reason and won't start back up, if I switch back on it doesn't boot up just stays on a blue coloured screen with the HP logo that says text across bottom to press esc to enter set up and what have you but I can't press anything to even get safe mode or anything because nothing works no mouse or keyboard.

If I leave it a while it will eventually start up again ok, but I have to leave it atleast a few hours maybe even 24 hours then it will start and willl be ok for a while could be a few hours and then will do it again just die and be the blue screen. So it sounds like something overheating and needing lots of time to COOL down but what? and how do fix it?

It is a Media Center PC m700 made by HP and has windows xp running it. It has been slowing down a lot in recent months don't know if that was a sign something wrong or not.

There is no viruses being found, fans are seem to be working, there has been no upgrades added hardwear or anything and have not added any new softwear recently.

Anyone know what the issue is and how to fix? Please, I am not very knowledgeable about the inside of a computer so any advice need be in layman terms lol.To update, the computer appears to be completely dead now. It's been 36 hours since the last crash and it hasn't started up after a cool down this time at all.

Please, there must be someone that knows about computers.

Exactly what happens (what do you see and hear) when you press the power button?When I switch the computer on, I hear the usual whirring noise that has always been there since day one, and a there's a faint clicking sound (very quick double click) which again has always been present on starting up so nothing unusual. The DVD rewriter lights up and opens and closes ok, the power light shows at the back and the internet connection is lit up. Inside the case if I take the side panel off I can see that all three fans are working ok. All that occurs on the screen is it goes straight to the HP logo screen (blue screen with hp logo in centre, v3.15 in bottom left, at the bottom right of screen).  Well, I'm not really a hardware expert but it sounds like the power supply is okay so my guess is either the mobo, hd, or ram. The easiest to test is the hd - download the diagnostic utility from the hd manufacturer's website and run it. Report back and let's see where we are at that point. Quote from: Allan on January 03, 2011, 06:22:17 AM

Well, I'm not really a hardware expert but it sounds like the power supply is okay so my guess is either the mobo, hd, or ram. The easiest to test is the hd - download the diagnostic utility from the hd manufacturer's website and run it. Report back and let's see where we are at that point.

Thanks for the replies.

The first time the computer crashed and was able to restart after a cool down was about 3 weeks ago, since then I'd estimate it crashed a further 7 or 8 times, each time being able to restart after being left to cool down for a considerable time, until now, this time it won't. I never heard any unusual clicks or noises.

With regard to the drives. There are two 300gb drives. One of them (the D drive) is located on the bottom of the case and easy to remove, this one appears to be working ok as I've been able to put it in an external enclosure and back up the data that was on it. The C drive however is in such a position that I just cannot reach it. I don't know how to describe it but these PC's seem badly designed as if the case really ought to have been bigger, there's all cables and cages in front of the C drive preventing me from even seeing it let alone getting access to it and I can just about see the cables to the drive but even to remove these would require the big fan over the CPU to be removed, and don't even mention the memory lol as that's behind even further. I think to get the C drive out or get to the memory, the PC would need to be completely stripped down and I'm not confident enough to tackle that.

This makes no sense... If the HDD was bad/damaged, then why would it still boot?

Did you hear any clicks from the harddrive? (You know the HDD, not to be confused with 90's styled 'Hard Disks').

So, now that it appears that it is a failed drive, is there anyway to actually confirm this for definite? and if it is a failed drive, unfortunately I don't have the windows xp disc so would need a new drive and a windows xp disc and I don't think replacing the drive would be something I could do myself (I suppose I maybe could but wouldn't feel confident doing so). So do I just accept that it's the end of this computers life and throw it in the wheelie bin, OR, as I have several external drives kicking about would it be possible for me to just pick up a windows xp disc of ebay and use an external drive?

I'm planning on springing on a new laptop, but I don't really know what's good.  We use HP laptops at work, and a friend of mine has a Vaio, but other than that I haven't had much experience.  I know it has to be in the $500-$600 range, and I'd like a 15 inch screen at least.  Also, all my home desktop pcs have always had AMD processors, so I'm a little partial to it having that as well.  Any suggestions, opinions?First of all, having a preference toward AMD is the worst possible criteria for a Laptop. Unless you work for AMD. 

If you care comfortable with HP. go with HP.
Vaio is a mixed bag. Try it before you buy it.
So AMD and laptops don't mix?  I've always thought AMD processors were better than comparable Intel ones.  Is that not the case? (I don't work for AMD, btw, lol) Quote from: roccenstein on January 04, 2011, 02:05:38 PM

Any suggestions, opinions?

Vaio is a mixed bag. Try it before you buy it.

So AMD and laptops don't mix?  I've always thought AMD processors were better than comparable Intel ones.  Is that not the case? (I don't work for AMD, btw, lol)

Suddenly began getting a pop-up warning: "System Warning  A problem with the cooling system has been detected.  Please turn off the computer immediately and return it for service."

It's a 2 month old Toshiba Satellite S655D.  I had to return it once for them to replace the harddrive.  I notice from the Toshiba Health Monitor that came on the machine, that the fan doesn't come on until the CPU temp is at 48%, then it comes on & runs at 40 -60% until the CPU drops.  If it drops too far, the fan goes off.  As the CPU temp goes up the warning pops up.  EVENTUALLY, at around 48% CPU, the fan comes on again.  So, either the fan is waiting too long to come on or the warning is set to pop up too soon.

Toshiba WANTS me to send it in again for service, but reading on the Toshiba forum   http://forums.toshiba.com/t5/General-Technology/Laptop-cooling-fan-constantly-on/td-p/135754  , there are others with cooling problems, mostly that the fan runs continuously at 90 or 100% creating an unacceptable level of noise.  The conclusion on that forum is that it's a BIOS issue.

I have received the shipping box from Toshiba, but don't want to be without the machine for 3 weeks again, if 48% is not dangerous and a BIOS update they will eventually come up with will fix the issue.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

JaumsDon't pay attention to PEOPLE on forums. (Except this one, of course!) Anyhow their problems sound different. Send it back. It already had hardware problems and may need more attention. It's under warranty and if it goes belly-up you'll be without it for weeks anyway and you may find you voided your warranty by ignoring the warnings. Alternatively, don't send it back, but pray a lot. It's your computer, your choice.

I play electronic drums. The sound module I use has an older compact flash CARD slot. I downloaded some software for it on-line. For some reason the older card reader I have is not being recognized by my Toshiba LAPTOP. Not able to solve that problem I'd like to know if I can do this:

Send the document to a stick, which my laptop always recognizes, then put the usb stick into some kind of device with a compact flash set up on the other end and load the info into my sound module that way.

Doable? Is there such a coupling device? Not sure what to look for online.

Thank you for any info.My SUGGESTION would be to purchase an external USB connectible flash card reader which can then be attached to your USB port on the Toshiba laptop and should thereby be able to be accessed (the data on the flash card) and transfered to your laptop. While this is FAR from the complete listing of the available card readers for the task here is a link to a variety of them. You should examine them and see if one MEETS your needs as to the flash card you will be desiring it to read. truenorth
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/category/category_slc.asp?CatId=942&name=Flash%20Media%20Readers

I just bought an asus pce-n13 wireless pci adapter about 2 or 3 weeks ago. Ever since every so often it disconnects from the internet for no apparant reason. I tried 2 other usb adapters that had the same problem but did it much more frequently. It disconnects about 2 or three times a day. I've tried running it with and without the drivers for it but neither have helped and it has the latest drivers installed so I don't know anything else to do for it so I'm asking you guys.
My pc has Windows 7 64bit.I am not sure about Win7 since I use XP, but I must have my wireless connection set as the Preferred Network, and disable all of my neighbor's networks I can pick up, to have a flawless connection.  Also the other software issue I can think of would be whether Windows is running your network, or if the card came with software to manage your internet connections for you... they will interfere with each other if both are trying to run simultaneously.I would do the preferred network but there's no where that I can find for that setting in win7 and since I live in the country I don't pick up any other internet signals other than one occasionally but its to WEEK of a signal to connect to.Sorry for the double post but I'd like to get this fixed asap. Does anyone know of a way to make it my prefered network with win7 64bit and make it so only windows controls it not the software?Try here --> http://www.home-network-help.com/wlan-autoconfig-service.html
http://ask-leo.com/why_does_my_network_connection_drop_every_so_often.htmlSee also here(bottom page) on preferred wireless connection --> http://www.home-network-help.com/how-to-connect-to-wireless-network.htmlIt is my belief given your remoteness and access to basically only your own ISP that your problem is not likely related to the choice being made by your router as to the access point. I think it will be more likely related to an issue with your ISP providers service. Or alternatively your interaction between your wireless router and the ISP modem ( i am assuming a DSL or cable connection ISP). You might want to ask them if they are receiving any complaints re dropped signal. Also undoubtedly you may have relatively close proximity neigbours using the same ISP. I would inquire of them what their experiences are. While a "failure" to connect on DSL can be sometimes caused by modem data clogging (which can be cleared by disconnecting the modem on occasion to clear it) i am not aware of that causing disconnects while actually in use. Others may wish to comment on that. Given that apparently this has been an ONGOING problem with different wireless routers i think it is more likely to be related to an ISP service issue. What is your data rate and your signal strength from your iSP? truenorthJason thanks for the help but none of those seemed to be the fix.
Truenorth, I know its not the router or isp thats dropping the connection because all the other computers remain connected to the internet when mine drops. It has something to do with my wireless adapter I just can't figure out what it is that causes it.This new information coming only now is a significant omission from your 1st post telling us of your problem and certainly alters my suggestions and recommended actions. truenorth Quote from: truenorth on January 05, 2011, 04:09:36 PM

This new information coming only now is a significant omission from your 1st post telling us of your problem and certainly alters my suggestions and recommended actions. truenorth

I installed the network stumbler but it didn't seem to pick up my wireless adapter.
I pulled off my side panel and checked to see how hot the card was while it was running and it felt pretty cool so that doesnt seem to be an issue either.

I don't pick up any other internet signals other than one occasionally but its to week of a signal to connect to.

So my nvidia 8800 gt was running at 166 farenheit in of it possibly overheating i shut it down is it safe for my GPU to run at this temperature


hold on so my GPU idles at around 146 degrees farenheit when i'm not doing anything.

I was playing dawn of war 2 and it got up 166 degrees farenheit is this to hot for it?it's  obvious  you have a heat  issue...though not  uncommon  , is your  Tower  vented ?  Could you  place a fan close BUY to help ventilate  the heat ?  I have  holes/ vents  all over mine  ...helps  quite a bit

plus...there are  fans  you can  purchase to place underneath  your   GPU  if you  have the  room* Quote from: honvetops on December 31, 2010, 10:55:04 PM

it's  obvious  you have a heat  issue...though not  uncommon  , is your  Tower  vented ?  Could you  place a fan close buy to help ventilate  the heat ?  I have  holes/ vents  all over mine  ...helps  quite a bit

plus...there are  fans  you can  purchase to place underneath  your   GPU  if you  have the  room*

so do you think i'm fine BC? also do you think that i'm do for an upgrade or do you think that the 8800gt is still good?

so do you think i'm fine BC? also do you think that i'm do for an upgrade or do you think that the 8800gt is still good?

Thanks, I had a dish heater running constantly in that room that night.
Do you think that the room temp which was pretty warm could have caused it to get to 166F?

I've never had it get this hot playing Dawn of war 2 and i was thinking that this was the reason.
I turned on my PC this morning and it was pretty cold in my basement. and my card after about 10 to 20 minutes idled at 124 degrees Fahrenheit.

but after I turned on my heater and let the room warm up a bit more I notice the room is back to 142 Fahrenheit.

but after I turned on my heater and let the room warm up a bit more I notice the room is back to 142 Fahrenheit.

What are you, in a heating room!??!?!?You said the room is back to 142 Fahrenheit. How can you stand such temperatures? 90 degrees F is the Max that you should be in, why would you be gaming in Satan's dining room for all you care then??

the room is back to 142 Fahrenheit.

142 degrees F is 51 degrees in modern (proper) temperature units. The European record in Seville (Spain) was around that. Why are you using these weird old Fahrenheit degrees? They just confuse everybody. In fact, I don't believe the room is that temperature. In fact I don't think I believe in the OP's ability to collect accurate temperature data either.

Salmon,

The U.S. still uses Fahrenheit so it isn't "weird" or "old" and doesn't confuse people that live in the U.S..

142 degrees F is 51 degrees in modern (proper) temperature units. The European record in Seville (Spain) was around that. Why are you using these weird old Fahrenheit degrees? They just confuse everybody.

Hello guys, good morning.

Awhile ago, I'm having a research about "How Hard Disk Works?" and Google gave me the of HowStuffWorks. While reading the topic "CASSETTE Tape vs. Hard Disk" this line makes me curios.

Quote

In a cassette-tape deck, the read/write HEAD touches the tape directly. In a hard disk, the read/write head "flies" over the disk, never actually touching it.