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Got a 5 year old Packer Bell - C: CAPACITY: 17.7 GB ONLY USING 2.56 GB. --63.OMB RAM --WINDOWS Me - Genuine Intel - Intel(r) Celerom (tm) processor.  Just want to use it for Art program and online uses. Worrie dabout updating windows to xp cause it will use too much up?

CD - Rom drive stop working after burning a CD. Its a sony and I found others had the same thing happen to them with the same one. Funny thing was it would still read music CD but nothing else. Then that stop. With all the programs we had on it was slow and used up. So we got a NEW computer and kept it around.

Now I get the green light  from wiffy that I can put some money into it to beff it just alittle and at least replace the CD ROM. Most stores that sale them are for UPDATED versions of windows etc.  Is there any companys that sale them that you can trust on line for older computer plat forms ?

One more thing in the CD -ROM drive, box with info, Device type- CD ROM,, manufatuer - standard cd-rom-device.. next is hardware version - NOT AVAILABLE is listed. Line below say this device is working properly. Yeah right it is.  Just beeps once in while and never COMES up to speed.  Any info would be a help. thanksHaving XP run smooothly on your machine, basically depends on two things:

- Processor speed
- Amount of RAM memory

You didn't post your processor speed so I can't tell you about that, but 63Mb is not enough for XP.
Upgrade to at least 256Mb.


About your CD Rom. You can buy any CD Rom with an IDE connector out there.
If it says that it works with Vista, than for sure it'll work with ME.
But make sure that the one you buy is an IDE drive and not a SATA drive!!

After a harddrive crash, my friend has taken his drive to a Data Recovery Service. Because the drive is special, they need to locate an exact replacement drive to recover the data. 

The drive needed is a Western Digital 500Gb, Model WD5000KS manufactured in March or April of 2006.

Apparently the construction date of this particular model is important in this case.

Google searchs have not been very helpful.

If anyone has, or knows of a new, used or refurbished drive that meets these requirements, I would appreciate hearing from them.

Thank You

What is so special about the drive?
I can't really see why anyone would need another drive of the same make, model and even construction date to perform a data recovery.
Maybe your friend should contact another recovery service to get a second opinion.Actually this is a common method with dead HDD's...the circuit boards are unique according to not only the manuf. but the size of the drive, the run dates and even the batch #'s...
It's the best odds of GETTING that data in a situation where the drive isn't physically DAMAGED but the electronics have gone bad.
It's a desperate last chance method but i've been successful with it in the past.

Try posting your serial# and batch# on eBay and Good Luck.Hmm okay didn't know that.
I just find it incredible then that some of these recovery companies can get data off DRIVES that have been all but completely destroyed (FIRES, drops from helicopters, you name it), but in this case recovery hinges on whether or not a drive from a specific production batch can be found...
Or is this a matter of how much you're willing to pay for recovery?I heard that as long as its the same make you can use what every board.  But you have to know what to do.Correct observation there DeerPark...this method does not involve removing the platters in a clean room etc. which are the real costs for Data recovery specialists.

I've done it 5 times with 1 success.

QUOTE

I heard that as long as its the same make you can use what every board.  But you have to know what to do.

Correct observation there DeerPark...this method does not involve removing the platters in a clean room etc. which are the real costs for Data recovery specialists.

I've done it 5 times with 1 success.

Quote

I heard that as long as its the same make you can use what every board.  But you have to know what to do.

Whoever told you this was mis-informed. I've had the same model #, size matches, etc. but a different batch # and it didn't even spin up. This was on a WD 80G.

Hey, im new here all because of this problem that keeps bugging me. Ok, i have a 160gb HDD. but i only have access to 127.99gb. and the other 24.67gb is "Unallocated". What i am wanting to do is make that partition avalible for me to use and join it with my main drive so i have 1 big drive. I want to keep all my data aswell. Please, Please help... Quite possibly a hidden partition from the manuf. that contains the Restore files that ship with the machine...without more info however this is just a guess.umm nah i built the computer and when i installed the HDD, which i got from work from a old surveillance recorder. When i did the whole installation of XP i couldnt format it or anythingI think this is an old friend come back again, LBA, Logical Block Addressing. Depending on:

your version of Windows (which means you need to get the latest service pack),

your BIOS,

your IDE controller,

One or more of these is not supporting beyond 28-bit addressing, so you max out at 2^28 sectors *512 bytes/sector = 137,438,953,472 bytes = 128 GB (where 1 GB = 2^30 bytes = 1,073,741,824 bytes).

Something in your system is limiting addressing to 28 bits.

Have you enabled LBA in the BIOS?

How old is the motherboard? Can it even support LBA?

Make & model of ALL hardware would make this less of a guessing game 

Quote

from a old surveillance recorder.

Hi, i've been using Win xp for about 5 years now and am slowly getting used to it.
But there is one thing i cannot get going despite numerous attempts--i have 2 different internal hard drives--the one that came with the pc and a newer one i bought. i can use either one on its own but can't use both together in a master slave combo--i googled how to set the 2 HDs in the pc and move the jumpers about to make one drive master and one slave etc, connect them both to that cable and a power connection to both etc, with pc off---but when i try to then start pc --nothing happens--its like the pc is dead.
      I have noted probs when using either one hard disc--eg pc won't shut down and occas won't reboot---on the rare occas it does shut down it takes numerous attempts to get it started again--it usually makes some bad beeps and then CRASHES 1 or 2 secs after i hit power on--and often doesn't even beep at all.
    1st hdd is--a Maxtor 3.5 series DiamondMax 10  --250GB PATA133
     2nd hdd(one in at present is a Seagate Barracuda 7200.7  --120GB
     i think both are IDE/ATA type but not sure. one may be SATA --does that matter?
 

Below is a Belarc scan of my pc for your info:

          Operating System   System Model
Windows XP Home Edition Service Pack 2 (build 2600)   ASUSTeK Computer INC. A7N8X-X REV 2.xx
Enclosure Type: Desktop
Processor a   Main Circuit Board b
1.35 gigahertz AMD Athlon
128 kilobyte primary memory cache
256 kilobyte secondary memory cache   Board: ASUSTeK Computer INC. A7N8X-X REV 2.xx
Bus Clock: 100 megahertz
BIOS: Phoenix Technologies, LTD ASUS A7N8X-X ACPI BIOS Rev 1006 08/19/2003
Drives   Memory Modules c,d
120.02 Gigabytes Usable Hard Drive Capacity
67.48 Gigabytes Hard Drive Free Space

IDE DVD-ROM 16X [CD-ROM drive]
PIONEER DVD-RW DVR-106D [CD-ROM drive]
3.5" format removeable media [Floppy drive]

EPSON Stylus Storage USB Device [Hard drive] -- drive 1
ST3120026A [Hard drive] (120.03 GB) -- drive 0, s/n 3JT1RJ5T, rev 3.06, SMART Status: HEALTHY   1024 Megabytes Installed Memory

Slot 'DDR1' has 512 MB
Slot 'DDR2' has 512 MB
Slot 'DDR3' is Empty
  Local Drive Volumes
    
c: (NTFS on drive 0) 120.02 GB 67.48 GB free
 
  Network Drives
  None detected


  EPSON Stylus Photo RX560 Series on USB001
Microsoft Office Document Image Writer Driver on Microsoft Document Imaging Writer Port:
 
Controllers   Display
Standard floppy disk controller
NVIDIA NForce MCP2 IDE Controller
Primary IDE Channel [Controller]
Secondary IDE Channel [Controller]   RADEON 9200 LE Family (Microsoft Corporation) [Display adapter]
RADEON 9200 LE SEC Family (Microsoft Corporation) [Display adapter]
Default Monitor
Bus Adapters   Multimedia
Standard Enhanced PCI to USB Host Controller
Standard OpenHCD USB Host Controller (2x)   MPU-401 Compatible MIDI Device
NVIDIA(R) nForce(TM) Audio
NVIDIA(R) nForce(TM) Audio Codec Interface
Standard Game Port
Unimodem Half-Duplex Audio Device
Communications   Other Devices
Intel(R) 537 Modem

  
NVIDIA nForce MCP Networking Adapter
 Dhcp Server:  none responded  
 Physical Address:  00:0C:6E:B8:4B:A4
SpeedTouch USB ADSL PPP
  
Networking Dns Servers:  62.24.218.51
62.24.218.50
   USB Human Interface Device
EPSON RX560/RX580/RX590
Standard 101/102-Key or Microsoft Natural PS/2 Keyboard
HID-compliant mouse
SpeedTouch 330 ADSL Modem
Generic USB Hub
USB Composite Device
USB Mass Storage Device
USB Printing Support
USB Root Hub (3x)
Virus Protection [Back to Top]  
AVG 7.5.519 Version 7.5.519
    Realtime File Scanning On
avast! antivirus 4.7.1098 [VPS 080323-0] Version 4.7.1098
    Realtime File Scanning Off
  
Missing Microsoft Security Hotfixes [Back to Top]  

All required security hotfixes (using the 03/11/2008 Microsoft Security Bulletin Summary) have been installed.
Windows
    SP1
        IDNMITIGATIONAPIS  on 10/10/2007  (Microsoft Internationalized Domain Names Mitigation APIs)
        NLSDOWNLEVELMAPPING  on 10/10/2007  (Microsoft National Language Support Downlevel APIs)
 
Software Licenses [Back to Top]  
  
Belarc - Advisor ec5fc648  
Microsoft - Internet Explorer 92318-600-9073637-21004  
Microsoft - Office Professional Edition 2003 73931-721-2708945-57523 (Key: R2K7M-CGJ49-T3R4F-49KVG-JPJ83)
Microsoft - WebFldrs XP 12345-111-1111111-60437  
Microsoft - Windows XP Home Edition 76477-006-9073637-21004 (Key: FWPHW-3CW44-PC7PV-3MHGP-H37HW)
 
Software Versions (mouse over * for details, click * for location) [Back to Top]  
Adobe Acrobat Version 8.0.0.0 *
Adobe Reader Version 8.1.0.2007051100 *
Alexander Roshal - WinRAR archiver Version 3.71.0.0 *
ALWIL Software - avast! Antivirus Version 4, 7, 0, 0 *
Apple Inc. - iTunes Version 7.6.1.9 *
Apple Inc. - QuickTime QuickTime 7.4.1 *
Apple Mobile Device Service Version 1, 14, 0, 0 *
Apple Software Update Version 2.0.2.92 *
Auslogics - Disk Defrag Version 1.x *
Belarc, Inc. - Advisor Version 7.2v *
Cinematronics - 3D Pinball Version 5.1.2600.2180 *
FLVPlayer.exe *
GRISOFT, s.r.o. - AVG 7.5 Anti-Virus System Version 7.5.0.420 *
GRISOFT, s.r.o. - AVG Anti-Virus system Version 7.5.0.510 *
Igor Pavlov - 7-Zip Version 4.57 *
Lavasoft - Ad-Aware 2007 Service Version 7,0,2,7 *
Lavasoft - Process Watch Version 1.0.0.0 *
Lavasoft AB - Ad-Aware 2007 Version 7.0.0.0 *
Lavasoft AB - Ad-Watch 7 Version 7.0 *
Lavasoft AB - Update Manager Version 1.0.0.0 *
Lavasoft Hosts File Edit Version 1.0.0.3 *
LockTime NetLimiter Version 1.29 *
Macrovision Corporation - InstallShield (R) Version 11.00 *
Methlabs - PeerGuardian 2 Version 2, 0, 6, 4 *
Microsoft (r) Windows Script Host Version 5.6.0.8820 *
Microsoft Application Error Reporting Version 12.0.6010.5000 *
Microsoft Clip Organizer Version 11.0.8164 *
Microsoft Corporation - Internet Explorer Version 7.00.6000.16608 *
Microsoft Corporation - Messenger Version 4.7.3001 *
Microsoft Corporation - Office Source Engine Version 11.0.5525 *
Microsoft Corporation - Windows Installer - Unicode Version 3.1.4000.1823 *
Microsoft Corporation - Windows Movie Maker Version 2.1.4026.0 * Microsoft Corporation - Windows® NetMeeting® Version 3.01 *
Microsoft Corporation - Zone.com Version 1.2.626.1 *
Microsoft Data Access Components Version 3.525.1117.0 *
Microsoft Office 2003 Version 11.0.8211 *
Microsoft Office Document Imaging Version 11.0.8166.2 *
Microsoft Office InfoPath Version 11.0.8165 *
Microsoft Office Outlook Version 11.0.8206 *
Microsoft Office Picture Manager Version 11.0.8161 *
Microsoft Office Save My Settings/Profile Wizard Version 11.0.8161 *
Microsoft® .NET Framework Version 2.0.50727.1433 *
Music Rescue 3.1.6, © 2003-2007, KennettNet Software Ltd. Version 3.1.6 *
NTREGOPT  *
O&O Software GmbH - O&O Defrag 2000 Version 3.5.562 *
RealNetworks, Inc. - RealPlayer (32-bit) Version 0.1.0.4083 *
RealNetworks, Inc. - RealPlayer (32-bit) Version 11.0.0.181 *
RealNetworks, Inc. - RealPlayer (32-bit) Version 7.0.0.3421 *
Safer Networking Limited - Spybot - Search & Destroy Version 1, 5, 2, 0 *
Safer Networking Limited - SpyBot-S&D Version 1, 5, 2, 0 *
SEIKO EPSON CORP. - Copy Utility Version 3, 2, 0, 0 *
SEIKO EPSON CORP. - EPSON Scan Version 3.0 *
SEIKO EPSON CORPORATION - DspReadMe Version 1.00 *
SEIKO EPSON CORPORATION - EPSON Easy Photo Print Version 1.40 *
SEIKO EPSON CORPORATION - EPSON PRINT Image Framer Tool Version 3.20 *
SEIKO EPSON CORPORATION - EPSON Status Monitor 3 Version 4.00 *
SEIKO EPSON CORPORATION - SETUP APPLICATION Version 6.00 *
Shareaza P2P Version 2, 3, 0, 0 *
Sun Microsystems, Inc. - Java(TM) Platform SE 6 U3 Version 6.0.30.5 *
SupportSoft Container Version 6,7,1154,0 *
SupportSoft sprtcmd Version 6,7,1035,0 *
THOMSON Telecom Belgium - SpeedTouch USB Version 301.0.0.12 *
VideoLAN Team - VLC media player Version 0.8.6.0 *

Could someone please give me some clues as to what is wrong with my system/hardware.              thanks,        
                                                       ric
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
which harddrive has the OS on it? Quote

2nd hdd(one in at present is a Seagate Barracuda 7200.7  --120GB

which harddrive has the OS on it?

Quote

2nd hdd(one in at present is a Seagate Barracuda 7200.7  --120GB

Seagate 7200.7 appears to be a SATA. Didin't you notice the different connectors?

In this picture the larger one is a PATA (IDE) cable




Ijust googled the seagate barracuda--you're RIGHT it is a SATA--but do all SATAs have that smaller connector--because my one appears to only have a connection point for the bigger ATAcable(ATA 100 i think)

Are you going to answer about the SATA connector?

I'm confused, because you state the model as Seagate barracuda 7200.7 which is listed as a SATA drive, yet you state you have set master and slave jumpers on both drives. SATA drives don't have "master" and "slave" settings. You just plug 'em in and go.

this SATA does--it has jumpers--and a tiny diagram on its top showing master,slave,and cable select jumper positions on it

the other thing i didn't mention is both hard drives have windows xp installed on them

Quote from: homer on March 23, 2008, 12:32:05 PM

which harddrive has the OS on it?

the Seagate Barracuda

Serial ATA interface disk drives are designed for easy installation. It is not necessary to set any jumpers, terminators, or other settings on this drive for proper operation. The jumper block adjacent to the SATA interface connector on SATA 150MB/s drives is for factory use only.  The jumper block adjacent to the SATA interface connector on SATA 300MB/s drives can be used to force the drive into SATA 150MB/s mode for use with older SATA controllers that only work with SATA 150MB/s drives.

the other thing i didn't mention is both hard drives have windows xp installed on them--should the slave be a formatted drive??

just rechecked--the seagate barracuda 7200.7 comes in SATA or IDE/ATA versions

I had Vista installed on a SATA WD Raptor and everything was running great. I think when I installed phone drivers for my RAZR it SCREWED something up and WINDOWS would no longer boot (error was 0xc000000f for winload.exe). I'm trying now to format the drive and reinstall Vista, but the Vista installation doesn't detect my Raptor even though it did when I first installed it. The BIOS does detect it. Any ideas would could be wrong? I've tried different drives on different ports and they all show up in the BIOS, but never in Vista installation. Thanks.I think my hard drive is bad and vista installation was not liking the corrupted drive. I put in an XP disc and it found both the GOOD and bad drives. I put a new drive in and am installing vista on it now. we'll see what happens.The SATA drivers need to be installed very early on in the installation process...You will see a prompt to PRESS F6 for SATA/RAID drivers.

I was LANing at a friends yesterday, and he accidentally hit the power switch to my power strip. It shut everything off. I tried to restart my computer, it gave me a conformation beep and started to run. But my monitor was still in standby mode, and not responding with my computer. I tried again, and again, and it eventually just worked. I dont know what i did, but it worked.

So i got home today and tried to start my comp up, but this time instead of the monitor not working, the computer auto restarts after the BIO screen (the screen which you push delete for BIOs to start) and gives me a blank screen. My monitor on, and not in standby either. its just black... I'm really not sure what is GOING on, i suspect the processor since my motherboard is still beeping and my video card is still letting me see the start up screens.

someone please help me! I need to get back to WoW!I just restarted and it gave me 3 conformation beeps, went to the load up, then to checking master and slave devices. and then it brought me to the screen to start WINDOWS normally/ safe mode screen. I selected last known configuration. and it froze!Try starting in safe mode. While it is booting, hit F8. Then maybe you can do a SYSTEM restore. Don't know what that will do, but it is worth a try.Well, i tried that, it froze when i selected Safe Mode.Maybe a REPAIR of windows with the windows disk? I would wait until someone with more expertise replies and confirms this though.Since this machine is traveling around to LAN parties i would remove alll power sources take off a side panel and re-seat the vid card; RAM etc.

The PSU can SOMETIMES be resetif you toggle the switch on the back of the PSU a few times with it unplugged. This is only on better PSU's. Usually not the cheaper models.

Plug it back in and see if this helps.im just chiming in to say...

Quote

I need to get back to WoW!

Hello. A friend's Dell Dimension 4600 finally died. He can't afford a new one and wants to stay in the 100-200 Dollar range, minus the monitor.
I see a bunch of Dell "Optiplex 280's, 620's and similar ones. Also, HP's. All of these have "XP Home or XP Professional" loaded in them.
My friend normally just broweses the Internet, but likes to Burn CD's and DVD's.(His Dimension did not have a DVD Burner) I understand some of these are slower than the newer ones today.

Is there anything I should be looking for if I buy any of these and anything that may be upgraded WITHOUT spending a lot of money on? Or are they sufficient enough for what he will be using it for the way they come. I've been reading up on some sellers that can sell you a "Rip Off" so I'm looking for a reputable seller.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, PhilI have bought a 'refurbished' PC awhile back. I used it for a long time. It was as good as other PCs I had at the time. The OLDER refurbished PCs do not perform well with fast-action games. Otherwise, they do most of the THINGS people expect.

One thing to check for. Is there a warranty?  Does the vendor have a good reputation? And is the Windows system come with the COA and the re-install CD in case the system fails?

Do a Google and look for this keyword phrase:
Microsoft Authorized Refurbished computers

Do not buy it if it is not an authorized reload of the Operation System. They can buy the COA for a fraction of what it costs you and I. So if the vendor is too small and too cheap to pay for a COA, what else did he leave out?

Do not buy from laptop_computers.bigdeal.com
Avoid Tiger Direct for refurbished computers.

aleebluff, Maybe from your own experience you can recommend them but they sure are expensive. If i couldn't do a lot better than that i would give up. Ptfitzy, have a look at  http://www.ubid.com/ Been a long time but i have gotten some god deals from that site. Check out vendors stats re approval rating. Take the time to go through the site carefully. Don't be afraid to e-mail a vendor. Check on the shipping charges. truenorthHere's another source you might visit: http://www.usedcomputer.com/   I just came across them via a Google search.  Also, I'd take a look at local listings on craigslist.org.   I bought a refurbished computer many years ago (from Tiger Direct) and the parallel port didn't work.  Luckily, the printer I had at the time had both a centronics and USB input.  I used the USB port and the computer worked fine for many years.  My guess is that when the computer got  returned they checked the CPU, RAM and HD but didn't check out the parallel port.

There is a risk with a refurbished machine so like Geek said make sure there is a warranty.  I had one, but I just didn't bother to use it.  If it was something more serious I would have used the warranty.I am probably not the best reference re the "warranty " aspect of this issue because i seek out (with a vengeance) used computers at garage sales. I have a maximum price range of $5.00 so my expectations level is very low. At best with a little effort i get a usable computer. At worst i get parts. I have bought at least 6 that way and have yet to find one that i did not get working. My greatest capital outlay after purchase has been a cooling fan for one of them. I don't recommend this approach for everyone but personally i enjoy the challenge and the opportunity to advance my knowledge. It is something like a Christmas present--you don't know what your going to get. The link that soybean provided looks very good for meeting your price range target. truenorth Quote from: aleebluff on March 01, 2011, 01:55:32 PM

If you're looking for a great/reliable/very reasonably priced factory refurbished computer, check out CheetahDeals.com ! CheetahDeals is really great - they have a ton of variety. They have desktops, laptops, netbooks & a ton of accessories! All of their products are great quality and well worth it! Check them out!

One post just might (maybe) be a satisfied customer, two makes this character a spammer for sure.

even his text reads like a saleman

I hope he's not on commision...

Hey i just UPGRADED the cpu on my computer.  The windows experience number for my processor rating went up to like 5.5 I think which i was happy with.  Well today I installed a new graphics pci-e card, now it says my processor rating is like 3.7.  The graphics cards says it requires a 300w psu,  and I do have a 300w psu.

My question is "could my new graphics card be robbing my processor of power?"  and if so "would just upgrading the psu fix the problem?"Yes.

If your graphics card requires 300 W, and you have a 300 W PSU, that leaves no power for the rest of your computer. Less power means it runs slower, and can actually ruin your hardware. Consider upgrading your PSU.Ignore the above post. Obviously the card is not using all of the power, it simply requires 300w to power it.Obviously a GPU with a 300 W requirement is not drawing all 300 W all the time. But if he has a 300 W PSU, then it is likely that he is overtaxing his PSU, especially if he just upgraded his CPU as well. A 300 W PSU is not enough to handle a rig with newer components. And while I don't know what exactly affects windows ratings, having an underpowered PSU at best results in crashes under heavy loads.

A Radeon 4870 for example, not exactly top of the line, draws 270 W when running 3d graphics in games, 147 W just to display the 2d desktop. Combine that with newer CPUs that draw close to 125 W, plus hard drives, etc..., and you are taxing the PSU which leads to overheating, and possibly overheating the other elements as they try to draw power as well which leads to poorer performance.

I'm not a computer engineer, just a physics teacher, so if Allan is and he swears it isn't affecting it, believe him. But it seems like if the only thing you've changed is the GPU, and that changed the rating of your CPU, then either insufficient power supply or insufficent RAM are the KEY suspects, and most GPUs use their own built in RAM. Or maybe the CPU has degraded due to overheating and you are just noticing now because you just ran the test again? Quote from: monkeydave on March 07, 2011, 02:41:19 PM

If your graphics card requires 300 W, and you have a 300 W PSU, that leaves no power for the rest of your computer.

Maybe 450 swats.

Obviously a GPU with a 300 W requirement is not drawing all 300 W all the time.

And while I don't know what exactly affects windows ratings

and you are taxing the PSU which leads to overheating

and possibly overheating the other elements as they try to draw power as well which leads to poorer performance.

But it seems like if the only thing you've changed is the GPU, and that changed the rating of your CPU, then either insufficient power supply or insufficent RAM are the key suspects

That sounds kind of cruel.

I have an hp 1410 all in one printer...It prints very small and very slow..any ADVICE will be APPRECIATED..
DUKE Has it always worked this way?  If not, when did it change?  Did you make any changes (hardware or software) to your system just before this started.  Is the print very small an very slow with all apps from which you might print?  Not knowing the actual print "speed" it is not possible to ascertain exactly what the "very slow" is related to. However both the speed and SIZE are potentially affected by manual settings that you may have applied. For instance speed of print is very much a factor of the 'quality " setting you select. "Fine" quality will be much slower than the lowest quality setting of the print job. Also print size is a factor of the "font" size selection. Have you checked those  settings? truenorthI have to agree with those before me, it is hard to tell without knowing what software your using and the manual print settings you are using.  I would check print properties WITHIN your word processor and make sure you don't have it set on High quality.  Most printers I've used also have a diagnostic tool, that will print a test to make sure alignment, colors, etc.. are printing correctly.  And it goes without saying make sure you have updated you printer drivers.

i had just changed out a cpu and noticed the heatsink  fan is not fully in contact with the cpu.  I believe the fan is SUPPOSED to be right on the PROCESSOR to work correctly. my old cpu(pentium 4) heatsink screwed into the motherboard.  I don't think the push bolts on the new cpu(CORE 2 duo) heatsink are going to work with my board.  Could I possibly use the pentium 4 heatsink? It has the same size fan but has a larger HEAVIER metal heat sink section and it has a what I would call a breather plactic cone that links it to the vents on the chassis. Quote

I don't think the push bolts on the new cpu(core 2 duo) heatsink are going to work with my board.

Hello,
im trying to fix a PC and when it boots i get a unable to detect media error. when i go into the BIOS settings it is unable to detect my HDD. took the side off and checked the HDD it is not spinning at all... i have a boot disk that has a program (DONT know the name) that can recover pictures / files off of the HDD by temp putting them on the RAM. at least from what i understand from the description. when i use this program my HDD spins you can hear it and feel it not excessively just enough to know the HDD has power. there is jumper settings that have never been changed. and last but not least is the IDE ribbon only have one ribbon but it has one main female connector and 2 others one in the middle and one at the end. ive tried both of them and still am unable to detect the HDD.

so basicaly what im asking is ...
who thinks its a bad HDD and who thinks i have other issues such as MOTHER board issues.

Thanks in advance

Quote from: nitelife2989 on March 12, 2011, 03:46:05 PM

...when i go into the BIOS settings it is unable to detect my HDD. ...who thinks its a bad HDD and who thinks i have other issues such as mother board issues....

it's most definitely dead

So I had a custom built machine with the following specs:

AMD Phenom x4 965 (stock fan)
Corsair 650w PSU
12GB ram
GIGABYTE GA-MA790GPT-UD3H motherboard
Sapphire Radeon 5770
320gb hard drive

I wanted to upgrade the hard drive so I installed a Samsung F3 1TB today. I left the 320gb in there, but disconnected, I wanted to connect it later after I put an OS on the Samsung. WELL, I plugged the computer back in and turned it on, but there was nothing. No POST, no beeps (no PC speaker), nothing. I then removed everything from the computer except the PSU, CPU, and motherboard with no change. I tried both the motherboard display and video card display ports with no change. I took out the CMOS battery and left it out for 5+ minutes before re-inserting with no success.

I then decided to take the old 320GB hard drive and put in a back up computer. I installed the hard drive into the PC:

Athlon X2 4200+
Compaq Presario Box Computer
3GB ram
Gigabyte Radeon 4550

This PC, which was working with a different 160gb drive just yesterday, would not POST with the 320gb I put in there. I would turn it on and there was nothing, no beeps, no POST. I then took out the 320gb and returned everything back to when the computer last worked and it's the same thing: power on, no POST.

What did I just do to break 2 computers in one day?! Is there any way to figure this out?

Thanks for any help.Your 'new' hard drive broke two computers.
The simple answer is to junk that hard drive.
If you WISH to explore this any further, you risk losing another PC.
Now somebody will chime in here and say 'it is not logical'.
Logic will not protect you. Logic is flawed when information is limited. You do not know what really is in that hard drive.
Let me put it this way. If somebody wanted to deliberately sabotage your PC experience, they could do it with a a hard drive that has been equipped for the task.
Was this a gift from your Mother-in-Law?   
Quote from: Geek-9pm on March 04, 2011, 10:59:43 PM

Your 'new' hard drive broke two computers.
The simple answer is to junk that hard drive.
If you wish to explore this any further, you risk losing another PC.
Now somebody will chime in here and say 'it is not logical'.
Logic will not protect you. Logic is flawed when information is limited. You do not know what really is in that hard drive.
Let me put it this way. If somebody wanted to deliberately sabotage your PC experience, they could do it with a a hard drive that has been equipped for the task.
Was this a gift from your Mother-in-Law?   

Absurd as it may seem.
This time I am serious. Get a RMA from newegg ASAP. That should never happen.
If is was you Mother-in-law, that would be more logical.
It is not coincidence.
You performed four tests.
Two Motherboards or PSUs went down.
You hope it was just the PSU doing a thermal reset, in which case it will survive.

Was this a SATA drive?

Bad drives, either SATA or PATA can stop a POST.
But any machine should POST after the drive is removed and power back on. If a PSU goes down because of a thermal overload, it should recover in 5 to 30 minuets.
If a motherboard has been damaged, it is not fantasy to expect it to recover in a useful way. But the CPU can and will do thermal overload. May take an hour to recover. Varies.
If the Western Digital drive can pass diagnostics, it would mean that it was not the criminal element. I have never heard of a HDD taking down a system and later pass basic tests.
Sorry to here you have two bad motherboards. I have about five or six bad mobos. Lost count. But I have five systems that still work. Hate to throw anything away.

FYI. The failure rate of large HDDs is larger than what the makers admit.
Not a rumor. Google Hard Drive failure rate.

Hi,

I had similar problem when finished installing a 2nd HDD.

Solution was that Windows2000 renamed the second HDD with a " $ " ahead of the name which made the HDD INVISIBLE.

Remove the " $ " if it is there.

John

Does the machine with the old drive where you inserted a HD upgrade of 1TB working before no POST? Have you check your BIOS setup if the new drive was recognized?

I cannot check the BIOS setup on that machine because it does not POST at all.

No POST, no beeps (no PC speaker), nothing

Have you tried atleast?Is there power running on the CPU tower with this information? Mobo lights and Front Panel/HD led lights, Fans. Have you tried putting back the working HD on that PC and what happens?

Sadly my Compaq PC doesn't have a reset button

First of all, here are screenshots from the relevant part of my bios.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v252/BADMoJO/bios/


I bought the following parts:
- Core2Duo E8400
- - - 3.0Ghz
- - - 1333FSB

- GIGABYTE GA-P35-DS3L Motherboard
- - - FSB: 1333
- - - Memory standard: 1066mhz

- OCZ Platinum EDITION 4GB(2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1000 (PC2 8000)
- - - 1000Mhz


After installing all my parts, my post says the ram is running at 800Mhz.  I run CPU-Z and it says my ram is running at 400.0 Mhz.  It also says my CPU Bus speed is 333.3Mhz.  It also says my CPU is running at 2Ghz.

This is driving me absolutely nuts.. all my parts are running at very low speeds.

If I try setting the System Memory Multiplier in the bios higher to give me the proper memory speed, I GET BSOD's within 5 minutes of booting up.

Can someone tell me what I need to be setting all the options at to get my actual speeds correct?  I also might want to mention i updated my bios to the latest beta hoping that would help.. no luck.

Many thanks in advance.if i was you i wouldnt have tried a beta release.
hence the word beta(new) most still have problems while still beta
get the latest one(not beta)
and set all of the settings to factory
pbI'm not worried about that.. the bios is working absolutely fine (exactly the same as the non-beta previous version).  The only reason I upgraded it is because the version after the one installed on my motherboard, was the version that SAID it supported the 45nm chips.. the wolfdales, which I have.  The exact problem still exists.  I don't mess with a lot of voltage/multiplier settings in the bios.. so I'm a little lost.. but beyond that, I don't need any advice.  I understand what beta is, I understand it has a very slight risk.. but that's not my concern at the moment.  My concern is the fact that all of my parts, even when not using a beta release of the bios, do not run at their rated speeds. and you have everything at default?

I have a Dell Dimension 2350 that belonged to my sister.  Is it possible to add another drive to it?  Its a single drive IDE Yes you can. I had this same model before I gave it to my brother.Pretty much any computer with only 1 hard drive can be added to because each IDE cable can support 2 drives. Be it 2 hard drives, 2 optical drives or a mix of the 2. Just be sure to set your jumpers correctly. (ALSO assuming that the IDE cable has 2 connectors,if not youcan replace it with one that does.)I wasnt sure if it was possible with these.  I had tried it but wasnt able to see the drive.  Where do you put the slave in the case?  There are 2 possibilities here. 1. if you are using a 40 pin cable connector then the origional drive should have its jumper set to "master" and the second drive set to  "slave". 2. If you have an 80 pin connector then both drives jumpers need to be set to "cable select". Also if this is the case make sure that the first drive (the one you will be booting from is connected at the very end of the cable. Sometimes DIFFERENT manufacturers of drive end up being incompatible. It would help if you could tell me what type of cable connector and drives you have.I know that I think it was slaved but I'll try it again.is it formatted? it will not show up in "my computer" if it is not formatted. it will however show up in ADMINISTRATIVE tools, and from there you can format it.

click START > RUN > type in "compmgmt.msc" without the quotes > hit the + sign on the left of "Storage," a menu should drop down if it wasnt down already > select disk management > you should see your new harddrive on the lower right hand side. it should be in RAW format if it is a new drive. right click it and select format.I think it was since I need it for my LINUX pc.  As I said I need to know how to mount it.  Quote from: squall_01 on March 17, 2008, 03:28:22 PM

I think it was since I need it for my linux pc.  As I said I need to know how to mount it. 

Dear Forum,

Every once in a while, my computer emits a series of tones; kind of like bell sounds, and it then runs slow. The first tone is a long one, then the others are rapid fire, short tones; maybe 30 in total.

It is a Q8200, Core 2 Quad, 2.33GHz with 3.25GB of RAM.

I thought it was a thermal problem, but I have installed fans, and everything is pretty cool. The cores are running ~44d degrees C.

Are the beeps an error code?

Thanks!
Mike
 1) What is new or different since the last time everything worked properly (ie, new HW, new sw, virus, error, etc)?
2) Boot to safe mode and see if the same thing happens.
3) Bios error codes occur at boot, not within the OSWhat M Board do you have? Allan is much more qualified than I am to HELP you. I was just curious since I also use a C2Q 8200. My M Board is Gigabyte GA-EP45-UD3R
It is an Asus P5QL.
The RAM is 3.25G [email protected] 800 PC6400.
Could it need more RAM?
Thanks a lot!
Mike
 Kind of sounds like keys are believing that they are stuck down.

It does still sound like a thermal issue however, with an audio alarm for temps/CPU throttling.

What are you typically doing on the machine when it occurs?Hi Kurtiskain!
Thank you for the reply. I'm still having trouble with this, so I thought I would revive the thread.
I'm not sure if there is any specific thing that I'm doing when it occurs. It seems to take a while after rebooting before it occurs; USUALLY after opening a few browser windows, and with my stock trading platform running.
A friend of MINE said that it sounded like a key was stuck.
By the way; my invoice says there was 4Gb of RAM installed, but the System Properties shows only 3.25Gb. Is there a problem with not all of it being recognized?
I appreciate any insights!
Thanks,
Mike1) Have you tried a different keyboard?
2) Have you tried a clean boot (disable all startup items)?

Right, so I have this microphone. It was working just a little bit ago but then I messed with it to make my music being played from WMP play for speaking. So basically I made it so on one connection music I was listening to played, and the other I could talk. After I finished I closed everything down and restored ALL settings back to the original.

Now I CANT get my mic to work, Ive TRIED to EVEN have a friend come in and check settings and everythings good.

Does anyone with some better knowledge be able to teamviewer me through and HELP me?

My son has left my think pad unplugged and RUNNING causing the battery to run flat, because of this the security lock has been activated and the COMPUTER asks for a pass word or code before it will allow us to start up the computer, as we didnt by the thinkpad new we never got an operating manual for it. can anyone tell me what code we need to enter to deactivate the lock so the comuter can start up. thanksSounds more like a bios PASSWORD, hardware level password. Is this password at a black screen or at the windows logon?

If this is at the black screen (aka post screen) you will have to locate the cmos battery to reset the bios if its before windows boots with logon password. This will require opening the laptop and disconnecting and then reconnecting the battery a few minutes later. Then it should revert back to DEFAULT of no password for system.

If its the windows password that you need, you will have to use a bootable password reset tool that you can download and burn to a CD from ISO image. Then boot the system off of that CD and then force change the password to a password such as 'password' and save changes. Then reboot system with CD removed and use 'password' as your password and then change the password to something that cant be easily hacked in seconds.On most laptops REMOVING the CMOS battery will not re-set the password default prompt...

You will need to take it to an authorised repair center....be prepared to show proof of ownership. Quote

My son has left my think pad unplugged and running causing the battery to run flat, because of this the security lock has been activated

I just got a new Sony VAIO EB series laptop. It was running fine for about a half hour, then the mouse disappeared and the computer froze. The NUM LOCK wouldn't turn off even when i pressed it. So I held the power BUTTON and restarted it. Since then this has happen 2 more times, while using the regular touchpad and a wireless mini-mouse. Can anyone tell what is wrong? since it's new, I think I'd CALL Sony.  Be sure to resolve this while it's under warranty. ok thanks. do you have any ideas what it could be though?I dont know how to access my laptop wireless connection...... can you help? Quote from: hrashid10 on March 10, 2011, 04:08:06 PM

ok thanks. do you have any ideas what it could be though?

I dont know how to access my laptop wireless connection...... can you help?

I recently purchased a dell INSPIRION 570 and it came with 1 dvd/cd player. I want to add another. Dell does not carry them. Since the system is a 64 bit (all my OTHERS were 32) does it REQUIRE a special dvd/cd player. Quote from: granpa71 on MARCH 11, 2011, 10:59:45 AM

I recently purchased a dell Inspirion 570 and it came with 1 dvd/cd player. I want to add another. Dell does not carry them. Since the system is a 64 bit (all my others were 32) does it require a special dvd/cd player.

Hi, i've bought an Allcam enclosure for an old IDE drive with the intention of retrieving data form it, pictures etc. When i've plugged the USB into my windows 7 laptop it say's the driver software has been installed but the drive doesn't appear in computer.

According to their website this is because the old HDD was formatted as FAT32. So how can i recover my files?

Any help is gratefully received. Windows 7 reads FAT32 and NTFS.
The drive needs to  have power.  Or more better power.
Why not mount the drive inside the Desktop PC case?
Use the cable from the CD-Drive. GET the files of the drive. Then remove and put the cable back on the CD-Drive.
That is as simple as it gets.

BTW, you already know not to do any cable swapping while power is on. Just want  anybody else to know.

OOPs just now saw you  have a laptop. Find a friend with a desktop.
Quote

According to their website this is because the old HDD was formatted as FAT32.

Make sure the jumper is set to master.

it means it was formated as FAT32 or other formats Win 7/VISTA no long support.

I wish to install some games on a separate hard drive to the one my OS is on, but I am not sure if this will will because there are two program folders in my windows 7 ultimate 64. One of these folders is a "Program files" folder and the other says "Programs Files (X86)." I am wondering if I will have to make a folder on the slave drive called Program Files (x86)? Or will any folder name do? Why do you have two Program file folders on the OS drive? thanks!!Programs do not have to be installed in "Program Folders". You may install a program to any folder you like (even creating one just for the program). Quote from: Allan on March 14, 2011, 03:02:08 PM

Programs do not have to be installed in "Program Folders". You may install a program to any folder you like (even creating one just for the program).

Why do you have two Program file folders on the OS drive? thanks!!

I replaced the ram on my gateway gt4204 with two 1GB ram which is the max capacity. When i TRIED to turn it on, it wouldn't boot up. nothing appeared on the monitor, but i heard the fans kick on. I pulled the PANEL back off and noticed i bent one of those black cylinders on the MOTHERBOARD. What's the problem? What do I do?Unfortunately you will have to have someone LOCAL to solder on another capicator...Thats what their called...or replace the MBoard.

hey
i have been using my grandmother's computer and i have been trying to print stuff off. i installed the printer to my grandmother's computer and i worked for a year but now it wont print stuff off, i have checked the LPT cable and it is plug in to my grandmother's computer and is pluged into the printer, i have checked the pwr cable on the prnter and it is pluged in the printer does have pwr and it can print off the built-in testpage but it seems there is a large black mark down the center of the paper when i print off the built-in TEST page. plz help

the printer's specs:
HP Laserjet 5L
it is a Laser Printer.
Sounds like maybe it can't find the driver anymore.  Did you try uninstalling and reinstalling the print driver?as a matter of fact my grandmother had here computer's HD formated completly and then re-installed Win 2000, but thats not my big worry.
my big worry is that when i printed off the built-in test page(the printer has a test page preprogramed into it) there was a large black mark in the middle which almost looked like the printer wuz buring the paper, could it be that the toner is low or what?ok i re-installed the drivers and it still wont print things off. but can u explain to me about the black mark

Quote

my big worry is that when i printed off the built-in test page(the printer has a test page preprogramed into it) there was a large black mark in the middle which almost looked like the printer wuz buring the paper, could it be that the toner is low or what?

Hello,

My system includes an eVGA P55 SLI mobo and 2 SLI'd 9800 GTX+ video CARDS. I decided to upgrade the coolers as they run hot under load and I wanted to do some overclocking as well.

I'm USING a pair of Accelero Twin Turbos which work awesome, silent and about a 20-30 degree drop, however, the cards will not fit in my PCI-e x16 and x8 slots due to the thickness. Currently, I am only running one because of this.

I ordered a PCI-e extension ribbon cable which allows me to plug the male end up into the PCI-e x8 slot in the board with just enough clearance behind the fan shrouds and allowed me to relocate the 2nd card. Success?

Nope. The motherboard does not recognize the card through the extension. There is no display, no recognition in the device manager, and when used to connect the first card to the motherboard, the LED readout shows a 2e code indicating no graphics card. Here are the STEPS I've taken:

Put the 2nd card in the PCI-e x4 slot below, but I was informed that you can not use this for SLI, it is dedicated for only a 3rd card for PhysX.

Uninstalled and reinstalled the latest versions of the drivers.

Ordered a second extension ribbon in case the first was faulty.

Tried both cards in both slots with and without the ribbon (the ribbon is for sure the issue).

Contacted eVGA tech support who
said they have no experience with these ribbons, but suggested their Power Boost to provide additional power to the PCI-e bus. Yes, I bit and I bought. No good.

I really enjoy the performance I'm getting with my cards and I love the fact that no matter what load test I run, I can't heat them past 71 degrees. I don't want to give up on this project when it seems that I'm ALMOST there (and I can make it look nice too ) Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

-Tim Dead card...return it for a replacement. Quote from: tjanko04 on March 12, 2011, 01:00:14 PM

...The motherboard does not recognize the card through the extension...

Dead card...return it for a replacement.

PCI-e does not support the use of extension cables, most buses don't.

I'm pretty sure that it is supported, maybe it's just my specific motherboard?

It's not supported. In fact, it's "prohibited" by the spec.
...
It sounds like a stretch, but I've seen it before countless times with hardware from all sorts of manufacturers.

I am trying to secure my wireless router to prevent unauthorized users and interceptions

I have tried many things and have been searching the internet for solutions with no luck.

here is the problem:
When I try to setup the router via the "web-based" utility through my web browser, I am UNABLE to log onto it.
The install program will not completely setup the router either.

hardware information:

Router: Linksys WRT54G2 v.1
Connected to computer via LAN
Router is connected to CABLE modem
I am using onboard network adapters
Internet CONNECTION: High-speed cable broad-band internet

Some command prompt Info about connection:

DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
IPv4 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.102(PREFERRED)
Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.1
DHCP Server . . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.1

I've tried many things:
Downloading install software from lynksys... I get error 323 during installation when program attempts to connect to the router
I've verified all connections
Tried setting up the router using the web-based utility, using 192.168.1.1 in web browser [firefox, chrome, and IE]. Will not accept passwords given [user: "blank" pass: admin][user: admin pass: admin]
Tried the above after holding the reset button on the back of the router for over 30 seconds
I currently have an internet connection and wireless laptops can also connect to the internet using the wireless router
I have all expected lights displayed on the router and modem
I've tried releasing my IP address using command prompt and restarting computer
I've pinged the router 4 times. All attempts were successful with no latency
I've checked to MAKE sure that IPv4 settings were set to automatic and that i am using a DHCP/dynamic setup
Turning everything off. then [one at a time] turned on modem, router, then computer.
I've contacted linksys, whom cannot help me because the router is past warrenty [makes no sense]
I've contacted my internet service provider and there are no problems on their end or with the modem
I've uninstalled network magic [program that installed itself with the setup file] and i could not find any router drivers in device manager

I just can't figure this one out.


http://www.howtodothings.com/computers-internet/how-to-protect-a-linksys-wrt54g-router-using-wap-and-wepI've tried that, i can't get past the password screenIf memory serves me right, you can set-up this router by using the lan/ethernet cable.  Then check if you can connect to the web based interface.  Also, you can try resetting the hardware itself.  Usually there is a small button there which you can push using a pen or something with a pointed tip.  If you still find no luck, maybe it is the hardware’s problem already and bring it back to where you got it.  One note, you try pinging the address of your router and see if it registers a loss.I'm already connected to it using a lan cable. I've tried resetting it and it still wont take the passwords. I've also pinged it and the tests were successful. My warranty is no longer available. I got this router from a friend who previously had it secured at one point.

 Have you tried leaving user blank and typing "Admin" as password? You may need to ask your friend for the PW if the hardware reset is not making any changes.
http://www.pcwintech.com/wireless-setup-linksys-wrt54g2-linksys-firmwareI've already tried leaving the username blank and using admin as the password. I never thought that the router could be simply not reseting. I'll have to take it back to my friend and see if he remembers the old password.Have you RESET the router using a paper clip or ink pen? On the back is a hole with a visible metal piece that needs to be pressed by a paper clip to complete a circuit to reset the router to factory settings.
This will remove all changes applied to the router including password.

John

I am looking for a laptop recently. And my sister suggests me one DEGEE laptop, following is the configuration:

General
Model   I6B11N2
Operating System    Windows XP (Vista, Win 2000, Linus optional)
CPU   INTEL Atom N270 1.6GHz
Chipset   Intel 945GSE+ICH7-M
Graphics Processor   Intel GMA 950
Display   10.2 Inch TFT 1024*600 Wide-screen
Dimension (L*W*H)   260mm*180mm*30mm
Weight   1.2kg
Interface
I/O Connectors   2*USB2.0
1*4-in-1 Slot (SD/MS/MMC/MS-PRO)
1*RJ-45
1*DC-in
1*Microphone
1*Earphone
1* interface for screen
 
 
Storage
MEMORY   1GB DDR2
Max Memory   2GB
Hard Drive   160GB SATA
Max Storage   320GB
Communication
Wireless Protocol   802.11 b/g
Ethernet   10/100M
POWER
AC Adapter   Input 100-240v/50-60MHz.7A
Output 19V 3.5A 65W
Battery   3 Li-ion 2200MA 10.8V/30W
Working Time   About 1.5 Hours
Others Features
Camera   1.3M pixels
Accessories   Ac adapter, Power Cable, User's Manual, Battery


Is this laptop worth buying? Can SOMEONE help me…?

Hi guys I have a compaq presario sr1603wm computer with xp home edition and a pci express slot that I bought 5 years ago the slot is black. The mb video port went out there is no signal at all and I tried another monitor that I knew that worked. I'm just wondering what video card would work I know that the video cards out there are a pci XPRESS 2.0 x 16 but i'm wondering if that would work Thanks Quote from: brett1974 on March 12, 2011, 03:07:20 PM

... pci express slot that I bought 5 years ago the slot is black. ...what video card would work I know that the video cards out there are a pci xpress 2.0 x 16 but i'm wondering if that would work...

I swapped the 250 Gb drive from my Toshiba laptop (in specs) to my HP COMPAQ laptop (in specs), and vise-versa.
I checked "Complete PC back-up" for both hard drives before starting this, sent to external SATA drive. Now the drives have been physically swapped I tried to access the Backup files but only see multiple COPIES of specific files rather than a complete back-up. What am I doing wrong here?
I intended to reinstall the OS's, then recapture all files and settings that were originally on each PC.  Are you saying that you tried to back up your OS to an external hard drive then placed it in that very same laptop? It might be just me, but I cannot get my HEAD around what it is you have done exactly. So basically you backed up both your OS to a single SATA slave drive and wonder why you have multiple folders of the same NAME, is this right? The reason could be because you backed them both up to the same drive

I have an old Compaq 7360 computer I would like to start using again to play old games on that won't run well on XP or WINDOWS ME.
I used the computer last year.
I hooked it up this week to an old 15" monitor I had used before but got no picture. So I hooked it up to an Acer AL1012 monitor I use on a newer computer. The monitor said "no signal".
Only thing hooked up to computer is speakers, mouse and keyboard.
OH, the GREEN light on the front that means it is on is lit up and the fan is working you can feel the case viberate.Try new monitor cable.Are you using on-board video, or are you plugged into a video card?Both monitor cables and both MONITORS work on the newer Presario.
I am pluging into the computer not a video cardSounds like on board video is bad. Is your bios set to ONBOARD or integrated video. Do you have a video card to put in ?

Hey, here is my problem hopefully someone can help.

When i try to watch YOUTUBE or other online streaming video's on my wide screen monitor, i can't make them go to full screen, when i try it splits my monitor into 2 different colored triangles, black on top white on the BOTTOM, does anyone know how to play full screen youtube videos or other videos like that on a wide screen monitor?

The monitor is a Dell, I'm USING Firefox with Windows Vista Home Premium. if any other info is needed let me know.

Thanks in advance for any help, it will be much appreciated.


What do you mean by triangles?it LOOKS like this

Wow! Never seen anything like this. Does video play OK in normal screen size?yeah, it plays fine if i just leave it as small screen, but when i try to go to fullscreen it does that. the AUDIO still plays but the video turns into triangles, also video's go on full screen fine on my non-widescreen monitor, so I'm really stumped as to what the problem is.Two things to try: reinstall Adobe Flash, reinstall video drivers.Broni, your the Best! thank-you very much for your helpful advice, all works well now, not sure which one of the 2 it was but after i did both it now works great. Thank-you!Great news!!
If you want me to bet $5, I'd put it on Adobe Flash reinstall. Since they took over Flash Player from Macromedia, nothing, but trouble.

I received an old Asus Eee PC from my sister with a 10GB HDD, 3GB on C: and 7GB on D:.
The small volume of C: make it impossible to install the XP SP3 (requires 500MB+ free space) and many other programs.

Is there any safe way I can recreate the partitions without reinstalling Win XP?

Thanks. If it has a CD drive yes...i use Easus Partition Manager.....which has a Free version.Hi Michael, Sourceforge has some good partitioning and cloning utility’s, G parted live and clonezilla, there pretty friendly with full GUI's and downloaded  free at  http://gparted.sourceforge.net/livecd.php

something else to CONSIDER, right now drives are dirt cheap see what type of interface the drive is and check out

http://www.compusa.com/applications/category/category_slc.asp?CatId=1277&name=2.5-Hard-Drive&
 
Compusa and Tiger direct are the same company A WD250GB SATA is $40.00 a 500GB is $55.00, define your partitions and clone the old contents, your good to go... just a thought, check the page in the second link..
Good Luck and Happy Disks..Hi all,

That day I tried to reinstall the Windows through an external DVD drive, and during the partitioning session, I FOUND out that the 3GB C: and 7GB D: are on different bus ID hence deleting both will not give me a 10GB single partition but STILL two 3+7 partitions.

I have no idea why they configure this netbook that way as it sounds rather ridiculous.  Guess what, when I do a recovery, it not only wipe my C: but D: as well. Quote from: Michael on March 09, 2011, 08:28:53 AM

Guess what, when I do a recovery, it not only wipe my C: but D: as well.

It Wipes the entire drive. Not just a single partition.

I respectfully disagree...

Looking to replace my LINKSYS Wireless g 2.4 ROUTER. Can you reccomend a more up-to-date new one with excellent range and speed. Price is not a major FACTOR.Are you looking for a Wireless N router or are you wanting to stick with a G?  Do you have plans to run it at 5.0ghz?  Do you have the RIGHT equipment to get internet through that signal?  Medialink has a PRETTY good router for around 45 bucks or GO with the E1000 at around $45-50.  That's probably your best bet.Sorry I misread that, you mentioned price wasn't a factor... if not then go with the E2000 or E3000 or possibly the Netgear N600.

Simple QUESTION for those who know the answer! The fan on my processor stopped working. The original one had a three wire connection and would switch itself off and on, eventually just off, which is why I REPLACED it. I found another one that fitted but had a four wire connection to a power lead inside the computer. This one just runs constantly. Is this okay or do I need to get a three wire one as PER the original?
GRASSHOPPER seeks enlightenment! Thanks of any replies. if this is the 4pin connector you are talking about you can keep it on there,however, it will be on all the time at 100% speed. if you get a fan with this kind of connector, you will be able to hook up the fan to the CPU fan slot on the motherboard. it will then RUN at variable speeds depending on the CPU temp, assuming your motherboard supports this feature.Yes, not as elegant as fan speed based on temperature; however, it's cooling the most important element of the computer, so from that standpoint, 100% isn't bad.

Those members who are better informed will explain further, and correct the error of my ways, which is always welcome...Thanks for the info. I will keep the new fan on there for a while and get a new 3 wire one after Easter.

My system about 3 years old

Dell XPS Gen3 pci expresss
windows xp pro
pent 4 3.2
2 g ddr2 533 mem
8800gt video card 2months old
sound blaster sound

Recently upgrade from 1 gig memeory to new 2 gigs of memeory 2 weeks ago.
Computer ran fine the day before but went to turn it on yesterday and it STARTS up fine for first second then all the fans kick on at high speed the power light turns YELLOW and that is as far as it goes fans at full speed and wont boot.
I have tried putting the old memory back and and no help. BLEW out the inside which was pretty clean. Removed the video card and put it back in along with sound card.
This has hapened before but turning it off and back always took care of it but had not happened in over a month.

Widows is up todate with all files.I would try to reset the cmos first. Turn off the computer, unplug the computer, OPEN the case and find the small battery on the motherboard. Make sure you ground yourself by TOUCHING a piece of metal from the case before taking the battery out. Leave it out for about 20 minuets. Push the power button a couple times also (I have heard there can be some stored power left in the caps?) Put the battery back and start the computer.  I doubt this will do anything, but it is a quick thing to try.

If I had to guess, I would say it is your power supply. I say that because I see you added a fairly power hungry graphics card plus more ram. You may be reaching the limits of your power supply.  How big and what kind of power supply is it? Should be listed on the side of it.

Hi i am looking for a motherboard to go in to the following spec, i have no idea where to look for what i want, or what motherboard i am looking for. here are details of computor.


LG CDRW 32x10x40 IDE GCE-8320B OEM

LG DVD-ROM 16X IDE GRD-8160B OEM

MERCURY MIDI CASE KOB115 P4/AMD 300W ATX

AMD ATHLON XP-2000+ 266FSE; SKT-A OEM

ALPS FDD 1.44MB OEM

HD IDE 80GB UDMA100 7200RPM

T/TAKE SKT-A UPTO XP2000+ VOLCANO 6CU

BTC KEYBOARD BTC 5201 PS/2 RET

M-TEC DDR266 DIMM 512MB PC2100 OEM

MS MOUSE INTELLIPOINT PS/2 OEM

U/B MODEM 56K V90 PCl HCF CONEXANT R

C/TECH MB SKT-A 7KJD SND GCH DDR ATX

JW 128MB GeF 4 Ti 4200 DDR "TV DV!

i do not know which part belongs to the motherboard.These are the 3 things that need to match your motherboard.

AMD ATHLON XP-2000+ 266FSE; SKT-A OEM

M-TEC DDR266 DIMM 512MB PC2100 OEM

JW 128MB GeF 4 Ti 4200 DDR "TV DV!


At the very least the first 2 match this motherboard . It was the only Socket A listed on NewEgg 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813185074

I am not sure about the JW 128MB GeF 4 Ti 4200 DDR "TV DV!  If it is a Geforce4 Ti 4200, and I assume it is, then it will also fit. That is PROBABLY not much of a motherboard but for an older PC like this, it MAY be just what the doctor ordered.

I took a lot of the components of my computer out to clean it, something iv'e done before. When i put everything back together and boot it, everything starts normally, but then after a few seconds the fan on top of the processor heatsink sounds like it goes into superspeed (LOUDER and faster), then a few seconds later the computer shuts down. I did take that part off to clean it and blow air down to get DUST out of the heatsink... 

Its a five year old computer and i'm planning to get a new one within months, but i need it to work for now. If anyone can help i would realllllllllllllllly appreciate it, thanks.


-Richis the heatsink clean? did you REAPPLY the thermal paste?well i didnt take the heatsink off, just the fan,.you may have damaged the fan. make sure the heatsink and fan are clean and properly reassembled, then try it again. when you pryed the fan off the heatsink did you make sure that you didnt cause the heatsink to lift off of the CPU? WORSE case scenario, you may need a new heatsink.
Thanks for the help. the heatsink may have lifted slightly but its hard to tell since i didn't intend to remove it.
should I BUY a new fan and test it? Or should i remove the heatsink first and apply the thermal gel?remove the heatsink first. clean both the CPU and heatsink surfaces with isopropyl rubbing alcohol then reapply thermal paste and remount. if your comp still shutsdown, then you may need a new heatsink.

A common question I am sure. Most of my searches have centered around moving Hard Drives with XP to a Vista based machine as a slave or a master or XP to XP. But I have not found much on Vista to Vista.

I'd like to take my current Hard Drive and put it in my new machine which is basically just a new motherboard and Ram. Keeping other parts. Can the hard drive be used as the master without re formatting? 

Can it be used as a slave without re formatting?

My new motherboard will have SATA connections on the back... can I use the old hard drive that way to pull data off if I have to buy a new HD?

Any thoughts appreciated.so far during my experiences with vista moving the harddrive to new hardware works the same as with xp. i have recently moved my harddrive and CPU to a new motherboard, PSU, and case and it started up just fine with the exception of having to install chipset drivers.If you're planing on running Vista on the hard drive from the old computer you should reinstall once the hdd is installed in the new machine.
Windows doesn't like major hardware changes and it was never designed to be moved between two different machines. (Actually it has features designed to prevent just that.)
If you're just want to use it as a slave I STILL recommend you FORMAT it as it will still contain all the Vista system files and boot INFORMATION (the boot information can only be removed by formatting the drive).

QUOTE from: BobPCBuilder on March 19, 2008, 03:38:34 PM

My new motherboard will have SATA connections on the back... can I use the old hard drive that way to pull data off if I have to buy a new HD?

I have a machine with 2 stix of Corsair Dominator memory. I WANT to PUT two more stix of OCZ memory. Both are 240 pin DDR2 PC2 8500 1066MHz. OCZ has 5-5-5-15 EVP, and the Corsair has 5-5-5-15 latency. What is the DIFFERENCE between EVP & Latency? And will this combo work?

hi
friends
 i m having intel865GBF MB & Microsoft  KB,optical Mouse  with Xp SP2 OS
i m getting some with my Mouse that is my mouse is not working when login but once
uninstall the mouse using kB  then restart my system mouse is working fine

pls tell me the solution to this

thanks


PardhuAre you saying your mouse doesn't work when you install the drivers that came with it?It sounds like a software conflict not really a hardware one.  You dont need the motherboard info.  Try updateing windows if its a new mouse xp mite not see it cause they only put in a LIMITED number of drives for some items.  Quote from: squall_01 on December 21, 2007, 05:14:03 AM

It sounds like a software conflict not really a hardware one.  You dont need the motherboard info.  Try updateing windows if its a new mouse xp mite not see it cause they only put in a limited number of drives for some items. 

                   

Do you have these on the rear of the machine ? ?
If so invest in a PS2 mouse and keyboard just for emergencies such as this...
A USB keyboard needs the OS and drivers to load fully before it will work.

Everyone should have one.

hello , my laptop is broke and i no longer have it and i HATE sitting at the computer , is there anything remotley CHEAP I could buy that I can get access to the INTERNET wirelessly which doesn't ACTUALLY have to be a computer .

thank you
Cell phone with an internet account...Or even BETTER a cell phone with WiFi integration. PDA.  Screens are biggerAnother Option...

My boyfriend vacuumed his computer with an electric vacuum cleaner and now it won't work.  Is there any way to fix this problem or is he S.O.L.?
Update: His comp starts up but then makes WEIRD beeping noises and then shuts down. When he was putting it back together he broke part of the plastic off of the connector end off of the Sata cable which plugs into the hard drive. Will replacing the Sata Cable solve his comp problem?Vacuums should never be used to clean out computers. They generate static electricity which fries electronics. The luckiest possible thing, however improbable, is that he knocked a wire with the vacuum out of its port. Check all connections. If that doesn't help, try replacing parts one at a time to find which are fried.Replace the SATA cable and we'll keep our fingers crossed...Not only do vacuum cleaners create static, they can DESTROY cpu fans -- the powerful suction can make the fan revolve much too fast for the bearings and the motor. Also the suction can lift RAM modules & display/network/sound cards out of their sockets.
        

Alan <><  There are quite a few things that you should not do with vacuum cleaners.
I have cleaned hundreds maybe even thousands of computers with a vacuum and never once had an issue.  LIKELY just knocked a cable loose or something check all your connections.  If you MUST rebuild the computer, disconnect all cables and such, and start putting back inbeyourownit, I confess that I've also, on occasion, used a vacuum cleaner to do some cleaning inside my computer and have not experienced problems because of that.  But, I've seen enough comments in forums advising it that I never recommend it. 

When I've used a vacuum cleaner, I've been careful not to directly touch the motherboard with it.  One technique I've used is to use a vacuum in conjunction with a can of compressed air/gas and just use the vacuum to remove dust-filled air generated by the compressed air/gas.  That way, the vacuum touches nothing in the computer.  Of course, another option would be take the computer outdoors to blow dust out of it. 

Other factors might be worth mentioning here, too, such as level of humidity in the air.  Also, I think perhaps we should assume that some vacuum cleaners may be more likely to CAUSE static electricity than others.  So, again, I've seen enough comments in forums advising using vacuums that I refrain from recommending it.  Quote from: beyourownit on March 18, 2008, 09:47:44 PM

I have cleaned hundreds maybe even thousands of computers with a vacuum and never once had an issue.  likely just knocked a cable loose or something check all your connections.  If you must rebuild the computer, disconnect all cables and such, and start putting back in

The threat is still there it doesnt go away.

I have cleaned hundreds maybe even thousands of computers with a vacuum and never once had an issue.

Forgive I am new to this situation but I have many questions concerning high density memory from a recent ebay purchase. These are KIND of half technical and half buying questions

1) I recently paid a total of $72 for $57 dollar memory from Spartan Technologies based in Palatine Il. due to a mix-up on type, when you include the shipping charges I’ve had to pay. I have dealt with many local stores and online stores that exchanged my purchase no questions asked. Is it customary for a store to do this?
 
2) Jim at Spartan Technologies informed me I should do my research before purchasing. In many other stores the sales people have actually be helpful and provided information concerning my purchase. Who do I ask questions about memory to when the memory experts tells me to go elsewhere?

3) Could someone help me with the phrase “high density memory”? Spartan Technologies told me to go read the motherboard specs at ASUS. I have been through many motherboard specs at ASUS and cannot find the phrase “high density memory”. I find it hard to believe that Spartan Technologies could be wrong so could someone help me find this?

4) I also checked many Gigabyte motherboard specs and could not find the phrase “high density memory”. Again Spartan Technologies said it was there. Could someone help me find it in the Gigabyte motherboard specs?

5) I REALLY need help buying memory. Are there other places that buyers can go to for help and reasonable prices besides Spartan Technologies? Are the ebay things all the same?

6) The Spartan Technologies buying agreement specifically says to check the specs and there will be a restocking fee if the wrong stuff is ordered. I checked the specs as best I could again the motherboard specs that ASUS publishes, but again, I found nothing about “high density memory”. While I don’t believe that Spartan Technologies is using the restocking fee as a profit center, I am wondering what to do about having to adhere to specifications the average user cannot locate? It’s not dishonest on Spartan Technologies part but I simply cannot find the information.

Please don't "FLAME up" on me, it's always hard when the elderly try to have a techy conversation and have to ask questions about what questions they should be asking.

Your memory questions can be answered here:  www.crucial.comThey have alot of information but I could not find how to get "high density" memory to work. I'll keep looking. Thanks. Quote from: John_john on March 16, 2011, 04:35:42 PM

They have alot of information but I could not find how to get "high density" memory to work. I'll keep looking. Thanks.

Hi all,

I recently purchased an hp xw6200 and have now done a few upgrades to it. These upgrades have been putting in a DVD re-writer, an ide along with sata hard drives, x-fi sound card and a modular graphics power supply.

I recently added in a Geforce gtx 460 card which I connected to the modular power supply and then my computer gave these errors: it booted up with graphical abnormalities, it had red triangles and such. So I researched a bit and found out that it was probably bad vram on the graphics card causing this. So sent the graphics card back to the distributor. While trying to get the graphics card to work I had tried installing its bios through a patch the graphics card company had and also updating the video drivers to the latest from nvidia. While doing all of this my computer suddenly turned off and started restarting, sometimes going to a BSOD complaining about the video card not functioning correctly. I also twice got an error message from the computer where the computer power button blinked red 6 times and also beeped 6 times.

Anyway the computer's build is:

power supply is a delta electronics inc, DPS-470AB-1 A REV :00f A picture of it is uploaded here: http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/2217/dsc01065y.jpg

2 512mb cards of ecc DDR2 pc2-3200 ram

2 1gb cards of ecc DDR2 pc2-3200 ram

1 ide primary hard drive with 160 gb of space

1 sata secondary hard drive with 320 gb of space

1gigabyte gt 240 1 gb graphics card

1 modular power supply: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817101044&cm_re=juice_box-_-17-101-044-_-Product

1 DVD rw drive

2 xeon nocona 3200 mhz processors

Anyway my questions are: do I need a different power supply to be able to power a gtx 460 or 560 ti graphics card because of the low amperage on the main power supply or will either run fine since I have the two pci-e connectors from the modular power supply?

The gtx 460 that I tried to use in my system seemed to require 2 pci-e connectors along with 22 amps of power. One of my questions is also do the amps completely come from the 12V rail or do the pci-e connectors also give amps.

When I look at the system board it appears that it uses a 24 pin connector, but I also read somewhere that since it is a 2 physical cpu set-up there might be a problem just upgrading psu's because it appears that hp made the processors need a certain amount of amps to each of them; not too little not too much. So wondered if the one 12v rail would be fine or if it would fry the cpus or not EVEN work with them. The cpus are intel xeon nocona 3.2GHz with HT enabled

thanks in advance for the replies Quote

I recently added in a Geforce gtx 460 card which I connected to the modular power supply and then my computer gave these errors

I was PLAYING Homefront on my PC with a Radeon HD 6870 and all of a SUDDEN the right edge of the screen was in the middle of the monitor and the other WRAPPED around the other side. Only a restart fixed the problem. What could cause this? Bad card? Drivers? Thanks.If it only happened that once and doesn't HAPPEN again I wouldn't spend a lot of time worrying about it. But if it CONTINUES, please do post back.

Does ANYONE KNOW where I can BUY ONE?

Thanks
http://www.thelefthand.com/lefwinkey.htmlThanks

sure

hi everyone,

planning to buy a new vga and wanted to ask your opinion and advices whats best price and quality. here is what i've found http://www.asus.com/product.aspx?P_ID=IjxEYpL7ep0Vs5mh planning to buy this one. tell me what you think about it. thanks  What computer (or specs if home-brew) are you planning to add this to?

What do you intend to use the computer for?

What's your price range?

processor is AMD athlon 2,3ghz x2, 5600+, 64bit, 3gb ram, motherboard is MSI.

it would be for gaming. I'm not from US so if i convert it would be about 80$$80 can be a little tight for gaming if your looking into modern gaming that has lots of action in it. If your talking about like World of Warcraft you can get by with a cheapie videocard, but if you are looking to PLAYING the latest first person shooters and games with lots of action in it, you might have to get a card that is bare minimum for those games at $80.  What games are you planning to play on it so we can point out a few that will work within $80

Also hopefully your system has an available Video PCI Express 16x slot to take a video upgrade without having to resort to older and much limited PCI slot type.The ATi Radeon 5450 Chipset isn't a bad one, modern features albeit older sized down components. Good value for money, but not what I would recommend for serious gaming. That said you also don't want to go too mad on a graphics card without going overboard on everything else as well. Did you know that they also sell a fan less version?

I'm going to assume though that as you have listed specs instead of a brand & model that you have a self built machine. The components you listed suggest PCI-E capability from your motherboard. However you did pick out a low profile GPU. Is that an issue or are you ok with standard & full sized as well? (It will be something new to me if someone tells me that GPU cards now have form factors.)

I would recommend NVIDIA GeForce GT 240 Chipset for better performance though. It doesn't have as advanced features as the 5450 (being an older model), but it is significantly more powerful for about another $30. I don't think you'll notice the lack of DirectX 11 SUPPORT, any games that will use it will be out of its league anyway (on settings that utilise the latest DirectX).
http://www.asus.com/product.aspx?P_ID=IiSRMp9XGJsFqwsi
(Sticking with ASUS as they list good specs, are neutral ground atm (I have no idea where you're from) and I trust ASUS.

For another $10 you could go with a GeForce GT 440 for a little bit better performance (about $10 extra worth actually). Although I would just go with the next option as it should be the same price.
http://www.asus.com/product.aspx?P_ID=a9D5iyfxMP5hHEL0

This is the best I could find within your price range: ATi's Radeon 5670. You'll get the best performance out of this one and it should be the same price as the GT 440 at $74.99. It should play modern games fairly well (I have a 5770 and it gets me through most things on high settings).
http://www.asus.com/product.aspx?P_ID=VIgJqfcDS3hZebCQ


These suggestions are based on the premise that your motherboard is PCI_E capable!
Having nothing to go on I also have no idea what sort power supply you are using. It may not be ideal for these suggestions!
Prices are based on US sales and may not be up to date!i'm not that serious gamer but like call of duty all series, gta 4, ASSASSINS creed, dirt and so on.
i found this low profile and i'm ok with full size if it is good enough and fits my price.
i saw that 5450 silent but i think there would be a problem with overheating, fan is helpful i think.
Accessless
i see your point they are much better than 5450 but they are too expensive for me, at least in my country. i trust asus too at the moment i have asus eah3850 256mb.
so i want to fit to 80$ for sure and to have a good not best video card with latest features and which lets me to play latest games Quote from: rejnis on March 16, 2011, 06:30:50 AM

i'm not that serious gamer but like call of duty all series, gta 4, assassins creed, dirt and so on.

i'm not that serious gamer but like call of duty all series, gta 4, assassins creed, dirt and so on.
i found this low profile and i'm ok with full size if it is good enough and fits my price.
i saw that 5450 silent but i think there would be a problem with overheating, fan is helpful i think.
Accessless
i see your point they are much better than 5450 but they are too expensive for me, at least in my country. i trust asus too at the moment i have asus eah3850 256mb.
so i want to fit to 80$ for sure and to have a good not best video card with latest features and which lets me to play latest games

I bought this drive around a month ago , i installed it into the computer , connected all ata cables to the correct place , and it decided not to show up . Now I'm pretty sure dvd-rom drives have PRE installed drivers so we don't need to install them . The drive has power and is working to the extent that the GREEN light will COME on and allows me to open and close the disc try , so its clearly not a power issue . The cables are connected correctly . Allthough my ata port on my motherboard is slightly bent , its a gigabyte board and some of the pins bent out of shape , but i corrected them so it shouldn't be a problem.

The drive wont read any disc , or show up in my computer . IVE also tried scanning for hardware in control panel but no luck.

Os: Windows X-p Home
Ram: 2 gbs
Psu:650 w
gpu: 7800 geforce
Hardrive: Western Digital 160GB

Here's a link to the disc drives spec: http://www.ebuyer.com/product/134324/show_product_reviews

Thanks for reading

You're sure those bent pins, or formerly bent pins, are making proper connection?Yeah I'm 100% sure , took out my torch's shined it under the tiny gap between the cable and ata port there all fully connected.

Very stupid little port as well , and on this board its all sata , only one ata port. okay, sorry -- kinda obvious -- just wanted to get that physical connection out of the way...Can someone please help??  Does the device show up in BIOS?

Is it in the device manager in control panel?

IF the device has power but doesn't transfer data, then it's back to the data cable or the plugins.Doesnt show up anywhere.  Dear Friend,
                Just run it with other computer.
Borrow another optical drive that you know that works and hook it up to that IDE port on the MBoard with a brand new IDE cable....i'm afraid that PIN damage is permanent and this will confirm it.If you can confirm the drive itself is good, you may consider (if you have the open PCI slot, and the money -- $30 -- maybe less) you might install an IDE controller card in the computer.  You can then run the drive off that IDE controller.  Of course, at that point, you may just keep the same processor, and put another mother board underneath it.  Just some options, but try to confirm the operation of the drive itself, first.Ive fixed the issue. 

It wasn't the IDE port.

It wasn't the IDE cable.


It was the jumper settings. 

Thanks for all that replied.

Rex