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Hi All,
I am looking into getting another router after many years. I have started to read up on DD-WRT and this sounds very interesting. Has anyone had good luck with this flash? Or maybe even bad luck?

I LIKE the idea of have a deeper control of network traffic and this sounds like a cheap way to go.

Thanks for any remarks
find it on amazon Yes, DD-WRT will give you more control.
Bear in mind  DD-WRT is a OPEN project that is subject to change and the documentation requires cafe full daring. Even so, many, like myself, prefer it.

A number of new router models come with DD-WRT already in the firmware. You can find a list at Amazon, or Newegg or your favorite vendor.
Or Google it. Try Best DD-WRT ROUTERS.
Here is a nice one:
Most Popular & Best DD-WRT Wireless Routers of 2014

Have fun! 
I switched to DD-WRT a few years ago and love it.

There were pros and cons to its use though.

Pros = Getting features of a higher end product such as bandwidth controls so that one user downloading wouldnt bring down a slower broadband connection where bandwidth is limited. I have VoIP Vonage Phone and I am able to allocate a slice of bandwidth for the phone so that the phone doesnt act up or cut out when a download and or streaming is happening. Vonage gets priority of service when  active.

Cons = The routers status LED's can now be misleading. The ports use to be solid green and blink green when active under the DLink original firmware. After DD-WRT the status LED's other than power are strange in that you get a solid green when connected, but instead of a BLINKING green you get a completely out LED when there is traffic. This caused me to chase my tail once when I had an issue and I was expecting the original flicker or blink of the LED when there was traffic vs it going completely out.

I bought a refurb D-Link for $19 through Newegg about 3 years ago and flashed it to DD-WRT and it has been bullet proof as for as its operation. DD-WRT turned a $20 router into the features of a more expensive router.

As far as ease of use... DD-WRT requires some PATIENCE and skills in knowing what you are doing. Its not as easily configurable as a OEM firmware user interface with far less features and generally has a wizard to step you through configuration. But its not very difficult to figure out if you have patience and do some research on google when you find something that your unsure of. Unless a newer flash of DD-WRT contains a wizard, one doesnt exist and so you have to manually go in and configure everything that you want to enable or disable etc.

If buying a wireless router with DD-WRT in mind, I would first check to make sure that the model and version of that model is supported before buying it. Its mostly older model wireless routers or brand new models that firmware has yet to be created for that are problems for DD-WRT. The older routers it usually comes down to the fact that they lack the flash rom capacity to take a 29MB flash. My router for example has a 32MB flash rom in it and DD-WRT shows the free capacity and 29MB in use, so its a tight install on my refurb router, but its operationally as a router flawless with exception to the odd LED status change in behavior. You also learn other stuff about your router of choice such as its processor speed in which my router runs at 350Mhz for its processor. It also has all sorts of statistics to look at and log if you want etc.

I have a pm8m3-vh motherboard version 4.1 thats I decided to get a Pentium D 945 for since it suppose to support it. The problem is it restarts randomly with bsod all the time with the Pentium D 945, but if I put the Pentium 4 524 back in there's no problem at all.

I tired different bios,psu,ram, unhooked everything down to just a hard drive and fresh install of xp. I replace bad caps under heatsink even though bad, Pentium 4 524 never had problems. It can sit in bio all day long no problem. All temps are in good range.

Bio version 3.3
Ram 1gb stick super talent
Hard drive Seagate ST3160212SCE 160GB
Windows xp pro sp3
PSU delta electronics 350 watts


[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Looking online I cant seem to find any supporting information stating that the Pentium D 945 3.4Ghz is supported. Manual online suggests it tops off at 3.2Ghz and no mention of supporting Pentium D "Presler". It looks like its intended for Prescott only CPU's. Also the Pentium D 945 is a 95 watt CPU and the Pentium 4 524 is 84 watts so its more demanding of the VRM's and ( questionable capacitor health after partial or full repair ). The link in the manual is a dead link too. MSI gave up on this board long ago for adequate support.

Info on the BSOD you have that points to Motherboard & CPU Pair not happy or power supply unable to keep up with load or Caps near VRM's : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine-check_exception

Does the motherboard actually recognize this Pentium D 945 and run it at 3.4 Ghz? Usually if a board does not recognize the CPU you will have 1 of 3 issues.

- No boot with a CPU failure beep code or no beep code at all. ( Most Common )
- Microcode error at post that you can get past and have it run under a different CPU type ( More Common )
- No Microcode error, but it assumes a lesser CPU identity and runs at a lower clock ( Rare ).. ( I havent seen an instance of this since the Pentium III Slot 1 days in which a system that only was suppose to support up to a Pentium II 450Mhz was upgraded from a Pentium II 350Mhz to a Pentium III 550Mhz and the bios detected it as a Pentium II 450Mhz and ran the Pentium III 550Mhz underclocked at 450Mhz and stated that it was a Pentium II when it had a Pentium III 550Mhz in it in an old beige Compaq computer. )


Quote

Specifications
CPU
• Supports Intel® Pentium® 4/ Prescott (LGA 775) processor.
• FSB 800/533MHz.
• Supports Intel P4 Prescott CPU up to 3.2GHz, and Intel P4 Prescott Celeron CPU.
(For the latest information about CPU, please visit
http://www.msi.com.tw/program/products/mainboard/mbd/pro_mbd_cpu_support.php )

Pentium D 945 (3.4GHz, C1, 95W)    800    17    SINCE 3.5

No idea why it dont work when msi site says it supported. I'll just leave the P4 in it.

I replace bad caps under heatsink even though bad, Pentium 4 524 never had problems.

I checked core voltage in bio and it jumping all around 1.20-1.50

I need to update the encryption settings on my SIL's Verizon router. She is still using WEP. Does the router have to be connected to her PC when I do this? Put another way, can I bring her router to my house, connect it to my Verizon Ethernet, configure it (WPA2 settings, network name and password) and then take it back to her house and simply connect it there? I assume I can NOT do this because my IP address is different. Thanks.

PS Yes, I know it would be easier to just do it at her house but I have my reasons for asking.Think I have found the answer. Every Verizon router (at least the particular model we have) has the same IP address. The various devices which connect to that router are assigned their own IP address. So, it looks like the router can be configured from any PC. I will confirm that tomorrow. Here is what I discovered. I can configure the router from a different PC but each router is specific to Verizon Ethernet. So, I can get a strong WiFi signal but no connection to the internet.Please GIVE more details about your setup.
Name of the ISP (Internet Service Provider)  and what kind of modem they provided. Is the modem also a router?
What BRAND and model of wireless router, if any,  do you use?
Did your ISP provide specific information about security settings?
Example: One provider needs the MAC address of the  main computer used  in your house or office. If not present, the connection will fail. This is a security measure.

One one time everything was working good?
Then you made a change and is became unreliable?

BTW, it is  important to tell if you reusing a older OS or something other than Windows. SOMETIMES the OS itself does not support a security protocol.

Verizon is our ISP. We both have Actiontec MI424-WR routers. She never upgraded from the original WEP encryption. I upgraded her to WPA2 and assigned a username/password for her router and WPA2 key for her network. She was not having any issues related to the old encryption, but coincidentally she just (yesterday) BEGAN having problems connecting to the internet from her iPad 2 although she says her old iPhone 4 connected fine (maybe she thought she was connected to WiFi but really it was 3G). She also has a Netgear 2000RPT extender. I rebooted/reconfigured extender and everything seems to be working fine. Yes, Verizon gives detailed router settings. We both have Win 7 Home Edition.

When I connected my router to her system, my iPad found and connected to the WiFi network fine but it would not connect to the internet. Since the router "Internet On" light was orange instead of green, I assumed the problem was not within the router but rather her Verizon main box was not recognizing my router.

Bottom line is you can configure these Verizon routers from any PC but they will not connect to the Internet from any PC.

I recently acquired a Motherboard (M2N68-LA) with an extra CPU and after trying different searches, i'm having a problem finding out which would be better for me. First of all, I don't do ANY Gaming, at all. I watch alot of online videos and movies off my hard drive and occasionally a little video/audio editing with avs4you.
Can anyone that understands CPU's tell me which one would be better for me?
All comments are very appreciated.
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 with 4 GB DDR2 Ram

AMD Athlon Dual Core 7550 2.50 GHz or AMD Phenom 8400 Triple Core 2.10 GHz



[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Lots of info out there on these.

Each CPU benchmark

http://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=AMD+Phenom+8400+Triple-Core

http://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=AMD+Athlon+7550+Dual-Core&id=99

CPU comparison

http://cpuboss.com/cpus/AMD-Phenom-X3-8400-vs-AMD-Athlon-X2-7750

They are close in performance. If you were looking to overclock the Athlon looks like its unlocked while the Phenom is locked. Also the Tripple core phenom is only 2.1Ghz while the Athlon makes up in performance for lacking a core in the faster 2.7Ghz clock.

You could always try each one out and SEE which one you like best. There are situations where the Athlon would be better than the Phenom. Testing them out of probably your best bet. Maybe the difference will be unnoticeable.

The Athlon looks like it could take an overclock to 3.22Ghz if you can keep it cool and run healthy timings without issues of bugs showing up with board or RAM tripping up on the cranked to 3.22Ghz clock of the Athlon with max overclock.

The Phenom could also be overclocked, but because its a locked CPU, only method of overclock to 2.44Ghz would be by upping the FSB on the memory. I have had to overclock this WAY with a locked Athlon 64 x2 4450B from 2.3 Ghz to 2.53Ghz raising the FSB from 200 to 220Mhz with locked multiplier of 11.5 for a 10% overclock which adds to performance and I am able to stay cool on stock cooler ( cast aluminum heatsink and FAN )

I already went that route for a few simple tasks but didn't really notice much difference. I was just curious since the Phenom is Triple Core that maybe it was better at multitasking background apps. I also looked at the Benchmarks but didn't understand them much. Thanks for your input though and quick responce.

JohnThese CPU's are very close in processing power ... Only other thoughts on an extra core with the Phenom would be if you wanted to use Core Affinity to allocate specific cores to specific tasks etc, so that instead of multitasking with all cores juggling the workload, you could specify an important task to not lag to have Core Affinity to give say 2 cores to a really important task and leave the 3rd core for the OS and web browser to function etc, and prioritize 2 of the 3 cores for crunching whatever task you need to have maximum processing power without competing with the other LESSER important CPU use duties.

But as far as core affinity goes, I have only used it for playing older games built back before multiple core CPU's which act up when you give the game a 4 core CPU, in which for example the game Unreal Tournament 99  ( 1999 edition ) was made for Pentium III and Pentium 4 single core type systems and the game acts up with freeze framing with use of all 4 cores of my Athlon II x4 620  2.6Ghz quadcore, but the minute you set the core affinity to use Core 0 for the game and leave Cores 1,2,3 for everything else the game runs perfectly fine as if it was running on a single core CPU at 2.6GhzWow, didn't know that was even possible. Definitely food for thought. Thanks again for your help on this.

John

hello there, i have this problem with overheating for like 2 YEARS already, then month ago i were touching components in my pc case while stressing PC and got hit by back fan blade, i got scared and accidentally slapped my cooler master tx3 evo, temps instantly decreased from 120*c to 60*c and never again gone higher than that until today. Today when i woke up i heard cooler fan noise like there is wire touching fan blades so i open up pc case to check, i fixed it but when i turned on pc, temps are back on same 40*c idle 120*c stress 125*c shutdown... Could anyone tell whats the problem and why back then hitting cooler decreased cpu temperature?

Note: Cooler is not dirty, other parts are not dirty, new thermal compound, applied like 20 times always same result, Cpu is not overclocked, Cpu is AMD Athlon 64 X2 4800+.
Thanks in advance.Hi, and welcome to the forums.

There could be any number of reasons why knocking your cooler would cause instant cooling results but it's probably best to COVER all bases:

- Thermal paste/grease.  You say that you have re-applied thermal paste several times so scratch this one. [Note only a pea sized amount is needed, clean off old paste before applying new]

- Heat sink contact with CPU. AMD CPU's are fairly idiot proof, make sure the clips are in and pull the lever down. [Cooler should sit firmly in place]

- Faulty thermal sensor on mother board. Not a LOT that you can do about this one but it can be evidenced by high temperatures on cold start up (Boot immediately into BIOS and check temperatures, they should be a little over ambient room temperatures. [Note this is assuming correct functionality of CPU cooler]

- CPU Fan Fault. Does the BIOS report reasonable CPU fan speeds? [800 - 2,800 RPM (PWM) ± 10% or 800 - 2,200 RPM (PWM) ± 10% (EU Version)] Given the odd noises which you have REPORTED I would suspect this to be the culprit.

I HOPE this helps.


It's a shame it's not a liquid cooling system. This would have been a much shorter reply: Air lock, shake it about a bit. Thermal paste/grease- tried all amounts from a lot to very little all have same result, spent more money for thermal paste then cpu is worth..
 Heat sink contact with CPU- well i had stock cooler when this started(u just cant mount that cooler incorrectly) i thought its bad cooler so i bought hyper tx3 evo which gives same result...
 Faulty thermal sensor on mother board -well i don't know from cold start if i remember correctly it was 35*c while it was 23-26*c in room
 CPU Fan Fault- i have eu version 1800 rmp idle 2400 rmp load, it does spin fast noise is from running out of oil i think, but doesn't affect performance..

Hello friends,

I'll include screen shots in a bit. My computer experienced apparently RANDOM slowdowns, with frames dropping to 5 fps or so for a few moments.  It DOES often happen when opening a new program, or even a new window in Chrome.  It ALSO happens in the middle of a game.  I initially thought my system was running hot, so I cleaned out all the FANS, replaced a few whose bearings were getting old and tried again.  I also replaced the video card, (The old one's fan wasn't running very smoothly).

I only have problems during the slowdown period otherwise my games run at full speed, my video capture works fine, and otherwise behaves normally.

I have 2 HDD set to raid 0, and I have a hard time believing it is them, they are only 2 years old.  Going through my actions above, I GUESS they should be suspect, but I'd like some help before I drop the cash buying new ones.

Thanks-
Mal








[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]This link applies to Vista and Windows 7
How to Check Disc for Errors.
Most of the timed that will work.






Nothing in the pic refers to the HDD...DLoad and run the Free DIAGNOSTICS from the HDD manuf. site...
Run the LONG test...and DO NOT interrupt it...even if it seems to hang.Try to run HDD regenerator to check your HD if has Delayed or Bad sector.

Apple has never made an inexpensive product

I was watching a dvd the other day on my laptop (a legitimate copy, bought an hour earlier) and about HALFWAY into the movie the picture went nuts and the whole laptop froze, so I had to reset it. When I restarted and loaded the dvd again (after checking it was ok - no damage to the disk, not exceedingly hot), on the black screen during loading of Windows I could see vertical lines on the monitor and when I started the movie again, the picture was pixellated and blurry and kept jumping. This now happens to every video regardless of the movie player (I've tried two different ones that never failed me before and movies that worked perfectly before). So... could it actually have been the dvd that damaged my monitor? And if not, what could have happened?It wasn't the DVD. POSSIBLY some hardware damage. Best to take it to a repair shop.
diagnose your laptop, try to connect to an EXTERNAL monitor using VGA or hdmi cable then start your laptop. observe the display of external monitor. if you find something good, then your LCD or flex has the problem. and if still pixelated or blurry then i think the video card is the problem.

Hi guys,

I bought a PC in September and ever since I've had it, it's been shutting down without warning at completely random times.  It's some times even after 10 minutes.  The seller has had the PC back several times, swapped the PSU with a 700 watt one and put a very large fan in the PC, next to the processor.  The computer runs quietly and seems to have a lot of air coming through it.

I would say it only really happens when I'm gaming.. and not just modern gaming, I'm talking DOSbox stuff, so I really don't think it's the graphics card struggling.  Some times it happens when I'm gaming on one monitor, with a film on in the background on the other monitor.  However, I'm not talking about an incapable, old PC here.  The seller assured me I could even play Battlefield 3 on the PC, but I'm struggling to play Dark Forces on it.

There is nothing really showing in Event Viewer, other than the PC unexpectedly shutting down.  On one occasion, there did seem to be a slight burning smell.  On another, there was a blue screen and I wrote it down somewhere, but it's been misplaced... since I thought the issue was resolved.

My initial idea is it MUST be hardware compatibility.  I thought some third party software is conflicting with another or a driver causes the issue, but I thought I would have had found something in Event Viewer.

One thing to mention, is the PC is plugged into a long extension cable, being shared with another 5 appliances.  Could this possibly be the issue and a voltage one?

Any help would be gratefully appreciated.

Many thanks,
Spyke



[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]It takes over 100 little  parts to make a motherboard work right. A failure of one or two can bring it down. Bear in mind that even the FAA has trouble solving electronic mysteries. Some troubleshooting is not practical for a home user.

IMO, the user should not have to pay for the quality control for n a maker or vendor. Rather, the vendor should provide a 100% replacement for the entire unit. Then it falls upon the vendor to figure it out on his time.

Here is just one of a hundred opposites. The CPU is not matched to the chipset. It was a mistake on the part of the maker to put both in the same motherboard. Rare? It does happen. Is that what happened to you/? Not likely, but there are  somethings that do happen and a re never likely.

Do Google search and find that most users rely on just common sensed and intuition. Nothing wrong with that, except it is  not a resubstitute of the equipment the the OEM has. It is  is the responsibility of the maker to find the strange things.

Is short, if you had unresolved issue from the beginning, the vendor should replace the whole thing. The user should not have top do the troubleshooting.

Quote

On one occasion, there did seem to be a slight burning smell.

One thing to mention, is the PC is plugged into a long extension cable, being shared with another 5 appliances.  Could this possibly be the issue and a voltage one?

I have just bought a Dell 2414H monitor which was supplied with a DP cable.  My motherboard ASUS P8H67 M Pro has only AVG, DVi-D and HDMI ports.  The monitor has HDMI MHL ports but when I CONNECT a HDMI lead I just get a message that no MHL cable is connected.  Can anyone help, please?It appears that the monitor you have bought (Dell U2414H 23.8") is designed for mobile devise use. I.e. for connecting your smart phone or tablet to. HDMI MHL (Mobile High-Definition Link) is slightly different from standard HDMI. I'll be honest other than the connector size I have no idea why. I personally haven't played with any of this yet.

Anyway to cut a long waffle SHORT. You're going to need a HDMI to Display Port adapter. Some other members might be ABLE to help with product recommendations once we know you country of origin.

I have two shot Western DIGITAL external hard drives. A My Book and another one. I'm very wary at this point about backing up my data since these things keep dying. But I need to backup my data! I am looking for an external hard drive I can be confident in. I know they all die at some point, but it's happening too quickly for my taste. I'm talking a couple of years - not decades. What specs do I need to compare? How do I determine what's a superior unit based on specs? (For obvious reasons I'm not too keen on WD).Just pick a name you know.  And sorry you've had trouble with them, WD is a top notch brand. When working with external drives you need to keep two things in mind:

1) Treat them gently.

2) Only connect them when needed. When not in use, store them where they won't be jostled and the temperatures won't get too hot or too cold.

I have pretty much every major brand of external drive, big and small, and have never had any issues whatsoever (and some are probably 10 to 15 years old)Allan is right.
The PROBLEMS with some drives are now history, The products being sold now are very good. Some stores have reports from users that can help identify problems. Expect a good backup drive to last 5ive years if you only use it as needed.
Thanks guys.My brother has been using an old WD 1 TB hard drive that requires an external power source to work for over 4 years now.
It's full of crap and he plugs it in 50% of the time. It still seams to be working, i don't know what magic he uses though.  You don't need magic for a drive to work as it's supposed to.I always buy a drive after first checking user REVIEWS on the web first. I dont buy the next new model. Some models are more prone to failure. I prefered seagate for the longest time, however when i was buying my 3TB I found out that the drives that use to be made at a better quality manufacturing site were now being manufactured at a questionable quality site in china vs I think it was Singapore before. The 3TB still works, but is not used often. Its only used when performing a backup or looking for a file from ages ago and then its powered off again. The model I had bought had some complaints of if used constantly the drives could overheat. A problem that many externals have is that they are not well at vending HEAT and so the drive bakes in the plastic shell... For some other drives that use to run warm in their cases I moved them to a Rosewill aluminum case that has a fan built into it and the drives stay cooler and so my 1TB and 1.5TB that are a mirror copy of the 3TB's data as a last means of recovery if the 3TB died because I have had all my data eggs in 1 basket before and had a complete loss of data. So with externals I have multiple backups for important data. I also bought a SSD drive and added that to an external enclosure and so that is a rugged external data storage that wont have same problems as a HDD that if bumped could crash the drive. I almost lost my 3TB drive when i went to move my fan the one day and its cord was wrapped with the USB cable. The drive already on the floor fell to the side from its upright position and hit the metal leg of the desk on the floor. And I cringed... fortunately it was not spinning at the time and so it didnt damage the platters. But I had a  moment when I saw that happen!   My preference has always been to use Enclosures for external drives. This allows me more flexibility as I can then purchase an internal drive with the appropriate specifications. Most External hard disks are designed for storage and finding 5400RPM drives inside is not uncommon. Another advantage is that I can easily swap Internal drives around and access them from another PC if necessary.

My computer's hardware specification are:

Intel Core i7-3820 3.60Ghz
Corsair Vengeance 32GB RAM (4X8GB)
Windows 7 64-bit
Asus Extreme Motherboard
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 780 3GB
Creative SB X-Fi Xtream
Corsair TX850 – power supply
1HD – 256GB SSD
2HD – 2TB – Western Digital


Yesterday (for some unexpected reason) whenever I started a high level game – such as WOW, Diablo, GTA V, Tera and more – after about 5-6 minutes the computer started beeping!

The beeps come from the motherboard speaker and not the actual speakers.
The beeps are random and are inconsistent. They can be one beep, 4 beeps, 3 beeps or any combination of them.
There is no specific pattern that I can see.

I have done the Microsoft memory test, two separate graphic card stress tests, checked the hard drives for errors.
I have disconnected all the cards, cleaned the motherboard, the power supply and the three 22mm fans in the midi-tower.
I have checked the temp with Everest, CPUID HWMonitor and OCCT. I have also checked internally for any abnormalities, malware and such.
There are no clear errors in the event viewer that I can guess.
I have rechecked all settings in the BIOS for the temp/fan/CPU monitoring options.

For the life of me I cannot find the CAUSE of this mad beeping! And it is driving me crazy!

Any help would be great.

Kind Regards,
SD


[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]From Our Archives....

Note: Your NEWER BIOS may have different ones...Hi,

Thank you.
Different ones? what did you mean?

Kind Regards,
SDThere are different codes for different BIOS's...

BTW Welcome Aboard...Thank you very much.
I have tried every VARIATION of the monitoring factors in the BIOS with no success.
The temps appear to be fine...however do a screenshot after gaming for awhile as those look like idle Temps...

I'd also contact the MBoard manuf and see...During gaming the temp go up to 50-60 but this has always been this way.
You think it has something to do with temp/motherboard configurations or malfunction?
Here is a post from another forum.
http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/forums/t/496916/random-beeps/
Quote

About 6 months ago, I had a pc built for me. Its worked great up until recently, now its Beeping randomly while running and I have no idea why. I have been looking around at different forums and have tried several things.
Originally I assumed it might be overheating. So I cleaned out the Dust with my trusty can of air and even monitored the heat levels with two different software. Usually the heat ranged from 30-40 degrees C. Which really didn't seem all that hot to me.   
...

So why post it ? ?...

I'm WORRIED somethings wrong and my laptop is overheating. I recently got my keyboard replaced and recently I've begun to notice that my laptop feels very WARM under use. Like, I play a 10 year old game, and during it I can feel my laptop is quite warm. Especially around WASD and the left side of the keyboard, I can feel its pretty hot.

This is probably why I'm having a lot of performance issues.

I've also noticed lately that under task manager, my memory usage is around 50% very often.

Is there any programs I can use to detect what exactly is giving the high temps, and solutions that I should try?DLoad and install SpeedFan...
It won't tell you what app is doing it but it will give you accurate TEMP READINGS.

The other night while getting up from my computer I accidentally got my foot stuck in my headphone cable and yanked on it. Luckily it didn't damage the headphones as far as I can TELL but at the time I was in a Skype call and I could still hear my friend but my microphone had stopped working and Skype could no longer find my microphone even though it was hooked up. So I tried a different pair of headphones thinking that my microphone had broke but to no prevail as they had the same problem. My computer could pick up that there was indeed a microphone plugged in after a restart and so could Skype but instead of picking up my voice the only thing the microphone was recording was my computer sounds such as songs or anything coming through my speakers. So I tested my headphones on the back microphone jack and the microphone worked but the thing is with the jack in the back of my computer the quality is very low and the entire time there is a screeching sound in the background (This is not the headphones I don't use the back jack because it has always been like this no matter the pair of headphones) I WOULD really like help in restoring the front jack if possible and if any additional info is needed please tell me!

-Screenshots of what the front jack looks like (Sorry some of them are side ways and low quality)-






[attachment deleted by admin to CONSERVE space]Buy a sound card...cheaper than repairing the front header...I would but my computer doesn't have ROOM for a sound cardBummer...You damaged the thing when you tripped over it.
Get a Bluetooth wireless headset.


Quote from: Geek-9pm on May 18, 2015, 10:44:58 PM

You damaged the thing when you tripped over it.
Get a Bluetooth wireless headset.

Hard to believe you have no available slots...what are your PC specs ?

Here is why I said that. You can try to repair it yourself, but it is a real pain.
Listen to this guy:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJEKW-ae6f4
He says just get a USB audio adapter.
 That you tube link  also has some other tips about messing with the audio input and output things for your computer. Might give your some ideas.

Funny...i thought he needed sound...

His Ethernet is already blown.

What do people think an Intel Xeon E5-2699 v3 would be like for game use?

Socket: LGA2011-v3
Clock Speed: 2.3 GHz
Turbo Speed: 3.6 GHz
No of Cores: 18 (2 logical cores per physical)
Max TDP: 145 W

(Not that I'm planning on doing this)

This thing is going to have been built with large servers in mind so it will be optimized for such. But what if? What if you had a Minecraft server with one of these babies & 256GB of RAM?A Game Server and a Game are two different things.The question has been asked by some. Many. Everybody.
First, one would think that if it is so great, why has Intel never  recommended it for home and office users? Because it is not for them.
There is a lot, a lot, pf bad reports. Here is a video that wants  to clear your head.

Intel Core i7 vs Xeon
The answer will not overwhelm you! 
What makes you think you would need it.  For running a game the GPU is way more important than the CPU.  You would be wasting your money and I doubt you'll notice any difference in games over an i7 or similar..  Besides, most Xeons have an equivalent i7 or i5 variant, there are very little difference in the average user's use.

For a single minecraft server (or any other game server) that it also a total waste of money, you can do that on even a basic PC.

Xeons are designed for running in high end servers where you would have ECC memory so it can remain stable for years on end without needing rebooted and so that you can have multiple, physical CPUs in one system so you can either perform massive computations or divide the system up into several powerful VIRTUAL machines, they are not designed for regular use and are priced as such.

The only time a Xeon would be appropriate is if you were planning on having a machine running loads of different servers inside virtual machines at the same time.  But then the question is why you would be building it yourself instead of buying a proper server system from the likes of Dell or HP and why you wouldn't be either colocating it or renting it from a proper datacenter.Intel doesn't recommend/market Xeons towards everyday users because it is not a consumer chip. it is demonstrably more powerful than their equivalent i7 chip, but at the cost of having a server-oriented feature set (no graphics capability and added Virtualization, support for ECC RAM, larger L1 caches, far more cores, ETC). The chips are also typically far more expensive than their consumer counterpart which is why they are aimed at companies that can afford it.

For a standard consumer purpose- such as playing a game- a Xeon's capabilities will not tend to lead to it performing much better than a similar i7. However in the context of, say, game servers, the added cores and L1 CACHE would certainly lead to better performance of the server, in particular when running numerous such servers. The entire point of the processor is for running server software, after all.

I also agree that it would be a waste of money to get one of these for a minecraft server. The CPU would have like 99.9% CPU utilization idle time serving the game up to the small group of players. Its so overkill for that application.

If you plan on thousands of people connecting to minecraft to your hosted world then it might not be overkill. As for max player count can be an integer value of  (0-2147483647) according to http://minecraft.gamepedia.com/Server.properties
 
However if your plan is to have thousands connecting to your world, I'd start small with a regular computer and get people connected to it and if you start to see hardware vs network lag then look towards upgrading to better hardware.For most people, price has to be a consideration.
$99.99
Intel G3470 3MB Haswell Dual-Core 3.6GHz
$131.21
Intel Core I3-4170 3.70GHz

Go up to the i7 and you go above $300.

Top of the heap consumer computers use some kind of Intel CPU.
Less often an AMD.
Only Apple would build a computer with a Xeon CPU.

Quote from: Geek-9pm on May 17, 2015, 03:06:02 PM

Only Apple would build a computer with a Xeon CPU.

(Not that I'm planning on doing this)

My computer has just stopped booting up. I push the power button & it comes on for about 3sec then stops then tries to start again by itself & keeps doing this till I TURN the power off. I was having trouble with overheating in the CPU.
Found the fan was not working but unplugged it from the board put back in & it was working. I cleaned the fan & heat UNIT under it & from then on it's not powering up. It was working all ok till I found out CPU trouble. Could the CPU BURN out to make computer not start. Get no beeping noise at start . Just keep on blue screen . The CPU is the i7 3.4ghz
Quad core . Computer is zoomstorm with Wins 8.1 , ram 8gb , graphics card Nivida 660GTX 2GB.

Thanks for any help 

Jenzo Quote

I push the power button & it comes on for about 3sec then stops then tries to start again by itself & keeps doing this till I turn the power off.

I've recently come across an upgrade for an old computer but now I need a new cooler. Due to the CPU and space I've got to work with I have determined that the Bequiet! SHADOW ROCK TOPFLOW (BK012) is the best for the job. The catch is that it can be SOLD without the brackets needed for mounting. Now, I've never encountered this before and find it rather confusing. So, does anyone know if you can buy clips/brackets separately?

Cheers.I'd never buy a cooler that didn't come with brackets/holdowns...
But thats just me...I know. It's just an alien concept.

I just assumed that it was just the LATEST in money pinching marketing or something.What socket are you wanting to use the cooler on?  You MAY be able to buy them separately but you'd probably have to GO direct to bequiet if you can't find them sold elsewhere.*Update*

GOING with a different cooler. Space issues arose with my original choice.

Also my last post should have read "I just assumed that it was just the latest in money pinching marketing scheme or something."

Hi all hope all is well.

Currently have 1 laptop with widi built in transmitting to a push2tv receiver on a VIZIO HDTV which works great.
We also have a few other LAPTOPS which DO NOT come with widi already installed. I was wondering if there is an external usb widi card that we can plug into a laptop so the SCREEN can be displayed on the TV ?

Thanks in ADVANCE,
MP.Quick google search SHOWS some. Not sure how good they are though as for I haven't played with this yet.

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=widi+usbTYVM Dave.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=0V5-0091-00005&cm_re=wireless_display_adapters-_-0V5-0091-00005-_-Product

Hi guys,

I need some help here. I work as entry level IT for a company and made a bad mistake yesterday so i'm hoping someone here can help me out with it.

My company recently just purchased a IBM X 3250 Server and using Raid 5 hard disk. One of the 4 hard disk was faulty and my IT manager called in to IBM to get a replacement which I was not really aware of so I was kinda caught by surprised when IBM guy called me to do some verification and check the FRU of the hard disk.

Due to some miscommunication between me and the IBM guy, I accidentally pulled out 1 of the working hard disk which resulted in the whole server going down and not being able to boot up and it is currently giving an error : W: 3058009 Driver health protocol: Missing configuration. Require change settings from F1.

I googled the error message and about the system and went to read up but so far wasn't able to resolve the whole issue and get the server back online. Would like to ask for advise on what can be done beside resetting everything back to default ( because we do not have any backups since it is new server and I do not want the users to lose the past 2 weeks of data). I have contacted IBM and currently they are waiting for approval from their management to send an on site TECHNICIAN but I would like to see if and what else I can do beside waiting.

And yes, I know it is my fault for pulling out the hard disk wrongly and so I'm now trying to minimize the damage done by me and to look for solutions to recover or back up the data inside the hard DISKS if we need to redo the whole configuration of the server and to wipe out all the data..

Any advise will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Best Regards
XsaviorSounds like you would need to rebuild the raid array to correct for the broken pairing of the member drives. If you have never done this before, I would advise giving the task to someone else to do who knows what they are doing as for you can make matters worse very quickly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have dealt with having to go through this before such as on our Exchange Server and it was a very tense process being sure to be extremely careful as for one wrong move and your looking at thousands of lost e-mail etc.

Here is the one FACT from this site linked below that is a MUST know for anyone working with RAID5

Quote

Beyond the seemingly obvious facts, there is ONE fundamental law that should be tattooed on the brain of every computer system operator responsible for RAID-5 data storage:



A RAID-5 rebuild procedure will ALWAYS FAIL unless ALL of the sub- system components, i.e. the controller and all hard disk drive members are present and accounted for, this means: verifiably working properly.



  Therefore, if you cannot now access and/or backup all the data stored on your RAID-5, do not attempt to rebuild.  If you can back it up, then get that done first.  Failed rebuild attempts are lamentable and make successful data recovery more difficult and potentially impossible.

Like the title said...

Hi, I am using Windows 32bit, onboard graphic, Intel, ASUS as motherboard and VIEWSONIC as monitor. My graphic driver is up to date. However, my screen resolution keeps changing each TIME for no REASON. I use 1366x768 as resolution but it keeps changes often when I am on my computer. Sometimes, I cannot set it to normal, I have to reboot.

Help... ThankWhere is the driver from ? ?ASUS...or maybbe it has been updated AUTOMATICALLY via Windows updates....  Re-visit the ASUS site...and DLoad and install the proper one...
Never use Win Update for drivers.ok will try it. if i re-get the same problem, i will come back here. thank you and happy new YEAR. Also, be sure to change Windows Updates to install only critical updates.

I have one PC and one laptop. I also have one headset. I want to play my games on my PC but hear the sound. I also want to chat and Skype with my laptop. Is it possible to connect the USB to my laptop for sound and the audio jack to my PC for sound also. I want to be able to hear through both and only use the mic in the laptop. I have a Turtle Beach Z22. Recap, USB on laptop, audio jack on PC. Would this work?Here is a method that would work for blending audio. The 10k resistors are needed to avoid blowing amp chip on the SYSTEMS by backdriving the amp.

Other method is to get a professional mixer box FOUND in a music shop that specializes in selling amps, mixers, instruments ETC, that has the proper PROTECTION to avoid backdriving amps and blowing audio chips.

There are also SOFTWARE methods to cast the audio/video from one system to the other, such as casting through twitch from one system to the server and then connecting to that live stream cast with the system your at and have minimized, but audio playing to you at that computer, but the audio cast is single directional and eats up some bandwidth and processing power. A mixer box will not load down your hardware with trying to render and cast audio etc.

Hey fellas.

My Fractal R5 Case just arrived.
I also bought an extra 140mm fan.

Where do i place it? The case comes with 2 fans, one at the front, one at the top back. Should i move those?
I want my pc to be as cool as possible.

Thanks.



[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]As long as you have positive and negative pressure airflow you have one fan that sucks in from say the front of the computer cool air and warm air is blown out the rear of it you should be fine. One thing I like to do with gaming setups is add a side PANEL fan that adds to the positive airflow inside the case drawing cool air through the side panel to have 2 fans drawing in cool air and the power supply has a fan and the rear of the case has a fan that are acting as the exhaust of the warm air.

Only drawback to more fans and more airflow is that you will have to clean it more often!!! Mainly just keep an eye on dust bunny build up and remove it from parts when it starts to accumulate. The quality and how fast it builds up depends on the environment that the computer is run in. If very clean it will take longer to get dirty inside at outside at the fans air entry points. But if you have cats, dogs, and FORCED hot air or central air system that is always floating dust around in the home then it will get dirtier quicker.Yes. So keep your room clean.
And maybe buy an air purifier for the room. Really.
Reference:
http://lifehacker.com/5175243/make-your-home-dust-proof
Life hacker takes tips from READER's Digest.

Quote from: DaveLembke on May 19, 2015, 01:39:03 PM

As long as you have positive and negative pressure airflow you have one fan that sucks in from say the front of the computer cool air and warm air is blown out the rear of it you should be fine. One thing I like to do with gaming setups is add a side panel fan that adds to the positive airflow inside the case drawing cool air through the side panel to have 2 fans drawing in cool air and the power supply has a fan and the rear of the case has a fan that are acting as the exhaust of the warm air.

Why not just try it in different positions and see how it affects the temperatures under load? - It's not an exact science.

Greetings. About one month ago my pc suddenly started having trouble booting. I'll number the symptoms for easy reference.
1) When I wanted to boot it if I clicked the power on button it would flash the lights for half second and then stop and nothing happens.
2) In order to boot it I had to turn the PSU off for a little and then turn it on and leave it on for about 10 mins before I click the on button and then it started booting (the time that I had to wait after the on/off of the PSU before powering it on increased gradually).
3) About 2 weeks ago, I started noticing that after I turned it on it would start the fans and the lights but there would be nothing on the screen, eventually after about 10 to 30 seconds the bios would start and it would boot normally.
4) Occasionally (became more frequent gradually) 2 seconds after shutting down completely it would power up by itself without anything appearing on the screen (like 3.). Most of the times after about 10 seconds it would stop and shut down for good but some times it would just stay at this state until I turn it off.
5) This might be unrelated but I had blue screen twice during this month and I can't even remember the last time I had one before that. I took a pic of it the second time with my phone (I assume both bsod were the same but I could be wrong) and it says driver_irql_not_less_or_equal.
6) This one might be unrelated too but from time to time since I can remember during boot the logo of the Bios and the BLANK prompt of cmd style with the underscore _ would appear all distorted and MOVING vertical lines would appear but it would stop when windows started booting (no I am not doing drugs, but I can't say the same for my pc).

Even though I don't think it has anything to do with it I should mention that the Hard Drive that the Windows are installed in is a bit messed up (hanging from a thread) but I had it like that for years and I only realized when I opened it (the guys putting it together put wrong cable, anyway).

2 days ago pc turned itself off while I was using it and I couldn't get it to boot like I used to. I replaced the CMOS battery but to no avail it seems. Today I got it to boot after leaving it for hours in each state of on/off PSU wise, but after reconfiguring the bios to default (because of the new CMOS battery) it got stuck at that blank prompt like thing right after BIOS with the flashing underscore(it was blinking normally but nothing else happened) and after restarting from the button same thing happened every time. I reseated some cables and the RAMs and I'll try again tomorrow.

From what I have gathered it's probably the Motherboard. I just need someone with more experience to advice me.

CPU: Intel Core i7-950 Processor (8M Cache, 3.06 GHz, 4.80 GT/s Intel QPI)
Motherboard: Asrock x58 Extreme (s1366/DDR3)
RAM: Corsair XMS3 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
GPU: Sapphire HD 6870 1GB GDDR5
HDD: SEAGATE Barracuda SATA II 750GB 32MB 7200.12No, the most probable  answer is Power SUPPLY.
What is the name of the power supply and its wattage?
All or most of those symptoms come from failing Power Supply.
Also, anything that draws too much power  might do that. Such as a RAM stick that is defective. Or a  DVD/CD drive. Or the graphics card.



PSU: Nexus 1000w rx-1k silent modular

Edited first post and added it there tooPromoted an other information to numbered symptom because I can now reliably reproduce it.

7) When I boot it after leaving it for hours in each state of on/off PSU wise it gets stucked at that blank prompt like thing, right after BIOS, with the flashing underscore (it is blinking normally but nothing else happens).Update

I unplugged everything except fans, motherboard CPU and one RAM and the PC was able to power up normally without having to on/off the PSU. I then plugged the GPU and even though it powered up there was no signal on the screen (probably couldn't get to BIOS). I tested a second GPU and same results, except that once, with the new GPU, the symptom with No1 happened.It turned out to be the PSU (or at least that's what the tech guy in the shop said after doing some tests ). Thanks Geek-9pm for your insight.

I'm looking to upgrade, and or get better performance, with any tips or tricks, from what i can tell, this is what i'm running, please let me know how it is, what whats wrong and or how to upgrade, Thank you!

PROCESSOR Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Duo CPU E4400 2.00GHz
Manufacturer Intel
Speed 2.0 GHz
Number of Cores 2
CPU ID BFEBFBFF000006FD
Family 06
Model 0F
Stepping D
Revision
Video Card AMD Radeon R7 200 series
Manufacturer ATI
Chipset AMD Radeon HD 7700 Series
Dedicated Memory 2.1 GB
Total Memory 4.0 GB
Pixel Shader Version 5.0
Vertex Shader Version 5.0
Hardware T & L Yes
Vendor ID 1002
Device ID 683F
Plug and Play ID VEN_1002&DEV_683F&SUBSYS_72501787&REV_00
Driver Version 13.251.9001.1001
Memory 5.5 GB
Operating System Microsoft Windows 8 (build 9200), 64-bit
Service Pack 0
Size 64 Bit
Edition Basic
Version 6.2.9200
Locale 0409
BIOS Phoenix ROM BIOS PLUS Version 1.10 A09
Version Dell Inc. A09
Manufacturer Dell Inc.
Date 03/11/08
Display Maximum Resolution 1280 x 768
Sound Device 1 High Definition Audio Device
Driver Version 6.3.9600.16384
Sound Device 2 High Definition Audio Device
Driver Version 6.3.9600.16384
DVD
CD
Drive
Size 146.0 GB
Free 93.7 GB

Not sure if that's All the information or if more is needed please let me know, and i use the COMPUTER for gaming.You could upgrade to a better CPU pretty cheaply buying a used more powerful Core 2 Duo CPU for the system. The E4400 is on the sluggish side with low clock and low cache. A CPU like the Core 2 Duo E6600 with 2.4Ghz with 4MB Cache would show noticeable performance advantage.

Are there games you want to play on this system that you can list here so we can determine if its even worth investing any money into a CPU upgrade? Core 2 Duo's while able to play many CURRENT game titles, are being pushed to their limits for the most part with many current games that would ACTUALLY run on it. Titles that require a quadcore minimum if able to install and run on a Core 2 Duo Dual-Core system will likely lag badly.

Video card upgrade could be completed too, but the Core 2 Duo system is going to be a bottleneck for the really good video cards and your power supply would probably have to be replaced with a higher wattage supply to power a good gaming video card, however there are some Radeon and GeForce cards that can run powered direct from PCIE slot and the stock power supply and run games on normal or lower than normal settings, or lower resolution to up the frame rate.So i bought the Core 2 Duo E6600 with 2.4Ghz with 4MB Cache, it should be here tomorrow, consider me stupid but, if i'm using a 2.0, and i upgrade to a 2.6, does 0.6ghz really make a difference? What kind of performance am i looking at? and since its dual core, would it be 0.6 x2? so 1.2ghz faster?? Here's a comparison of the two. These numbers are only a broad data throughput average, not a definitive which is better (although not a bad measure of potential):

=935&cmp[]=912]https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp[]=935&cmp[]=912

[Edit]
Sorry you'll have to click on the compare button for each:

https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Core2+Duo+E4400+%40+2.00GHz&id=935
https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Core2+Duo+E6600+%40+2.40GHz&id=912Benchmark numbers with IS over OF % over 100 equation places the upgrade at 27.057% increase in CPU score at 2.4Ghz. Because it looks to be a Dell, you probably dont have the ability to overclock that 2.4Ghz to 3Ghz or faster as I have seen people push the E6600 with strong overclocks with really good performance for this era of CPU if you can keep it cool.

1135     = 72.943444730077120822622107969152
------      -----
1556     100

72.943444730077120822622107969152 - 100 = 27.056555269922879177377892030848% score increase according to benchmarks


with 1135 = the E4400 and 1556 = the E6600 CPUQuestion.
What chip set does the motherboard have?
Is it a Dell Latitude E6410 System?
It could make a difference.

I've just rebuilt my old computer system & refitted it with a faster CPU:

M3A32-MVP DELUXE/WIFI-AP
AMD Phenom 9550 [Cooler] Stock  -->  Phenom II X4 960 [Cooler] Scythe Shuriken Rev.B
Radeon HD 5770
4Gb DDR2 RAM
500W PSU

But I have some thermal problems. Core temps register at least 8°C higher than CPU temps. And more worryingly an unknown temperature that wildly fluctuates between 40°C and 75°C. I ASSUME that this reading is false as it can go from 40-75 and back again in a couple of seconds but I still don't KNOW what it refers to. My worry is that it will cause instability by means of shutdowns because the system thinks that it is melting.

I have to emphasize though that I have no idea if the reading is false or not. It does seem to increase with work load.

Anyone have any ideas on how to identify it? Labeled temp3What are you using to observe the temperatures?SIW & SpeedfanThe reading is false. Temps never vary from 40 to 75 in a short time.
But what is it? And more importantly will it cause "protective" shutdowns? Quote from: Accessless on May 19, 2015, 12:20:08 PM

But what is it? And more importantly will it cause "protective" shutdowns?

The reading is false. Temps never vary from 40 to 75 in a short time.

I totally disagree...i've observed AMD's go even more whacko than that in less time...

I would look up the operating temp ranges for the CPU before doing a wholesale change...

So recently i INSTALLED the cooler master hyper 212 plus into my gaming pc because i planned on OCing. I FOLLOWED an overclocking guide from http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18338090 and it worked pretty MUCH at 4.5. The only problem is the heat. Running prime95 for a minute got it close to 85c then i turned it off because i thought that was too high. So i started to crank it down and now its at 4.3ghz and about 1 1/2 mins in it goes to 83c and i shut it off. Thats how it currently is atm, idle it stays around 45c. I think this is too hot, is this normal? Thanks Also i forgot to mention, on every game i have tried with low and high settings, i always get around 60c which is high but fine i guess, i just dont want my pc to be too hot this summer.Just undid the overclock and tested prime95 again and now it stays between 72 and 73 c. I think there must be something WRONG or something i did wrong.Sounds as though your cooler isn't doing its job properly if your temperatures are reaching 73C at stock.  I would reseat the cooler to make sure it's making good contact with the CPU and then re-test at stock to check your temperatures are acceptable.  Might also be worth checking what CPU voltage is being applied at stock with CPU-Z, you MAY just have an unusually high stock voltage.

Looking to get a new monitor.

I am comfortable spending up to $300 give or take $50.
Im looking for a 27".

It will be used for general desktop/internet browing.  But also for some gaming ( nothing hardcore ).  I might dabble into some home video editing too.

I see there are some monitors on newegg that look reasonably priced. 
If 2k monitors are similarly priced to regular 1980 ( I might be off with my number...?0 ) why wouldnt you want a 2k monitor?

Is there any advantage to having a 2k monitor vs not?
I assume a 2k monitor gives a more clear sharp defined image?


<-- still learning

*** When hooking my GPU to my monitor, what connection will maximize the picture quality?  HDMI?  Display port?  D -...?i7 4790k
MGI gefroce GTX 970 GPU
16gb RAM
750W PSU
Noctua nhd14 heatsink cooler
non overclocked
2k=2560x1440 right?

1920x1080   is not 2k correct?

So is the image quality better with 2k?2560 x 1440 Is actually 1440p.
1920 x 1080 is 1080p.

Yes. A 1440p display has more pixels, so it PRODUCES a much more sharper image quality. It also gives you more workspace when editing. You can preview your video in 1080p without USING up your entire monitor.

I'm not sure if a 2k display is worth getting, but I'm definitely getting a 1440p one. 

Gaming on 1440p requires more Vram. I've HEARD you'd need to turn up some settings down in order to enjoy a good 30 fps+ on a 970.
"2k" is not really an official term for PC monitors.  It is usually used to refer to 2560x1440 monitors because people think it sounds COOL because it is like "4K" which is the latest "trendy" term.  Forget about the "2k" term and just focus on the resolution itself, this will be a lot less ambiguous.

Can anyone help me REGARDING getting my speakers to work, set up my windows MEDIA player but there was no sound coming out of the speakers, searched through the speaker properties etc and eventually got some sound , tried to watch something on YOUTUBE but the sound wasn't right on there so went back into the properties and OBVIOUSLY have clicked something I shouldn't where now I have no sound at all coming out of speakers but if I plug my headphones in they work, its a dell inspiron ,windows 8.  Any help appreciated.

In February while using my laptop (ALIENWARE M18x r2) it turned off immediately without any warning while it was plugged in to charge. There wasn't any notice that the laptop was going to turn off or that I should plug in the laptop to avoid losing any unsaved data. It won't turn back on with or without the charger. When the charger is plugged into a SOCKET the charger light comes on but charger light it goes off when I plug the charger into the laptop and the laptop won't charge or turn on. I should also mention that the first time I tried to plug in the laptop with the battery STILL inside there was a spark. I removed the battery, plugged in the charger to the laptop and it sounded like the plug/jack short circuited. I was not using a surge protector at the time. I have no idea why this happened or how to fix it. One recommendation was to REPLACE the spark plug but I'm not convinced that is the problem. Quote

One recommendation was to replace the spark plug but I'm not convinced that is the problem

One recommendation was to replace the spark plug but I'm not convinced that is the problem.

I just bought 2 brand  new 125 gb thumb drives off of ebay so that I could save all the movies off my pc to them.
The thumb drives don't have any kind of manufacturers names on them. They will play the first 7 or 8 movies but any of the movies I save after that will not play. I cant figure out what the problem is I tried formatting them but im having the same problem any help would greatly appreciated thanksCounterfiet drives...it happens.This is a COMMON issue - Sellers buy cheap flash drives of a MUCH lower capacity and then flash them to make them appear larger than they actually are.  I suggest you go straight away to eBay/Paypal to get your money back and then buy a drive from a reputable retailer.

Look at the price you are paying, a flash drive that big will not be cheap, if you are seeing it sold for a very low price compared to the prices in reputable stores then think as to why this is, chances are it's one of these fake drives.

Also, for storing stuff like movies, USB flash drives are an expensive (and not particularly reliable) way of doing this.  You would be much better off getting an external hard drive, these are a lot cheaper and tend to be more reliable than the cheap flash memory used in USB flash drives.  USB flash drives should be treated as a way to move files around easily, not for long term archiving or storing the only copy of anything important.ive had about 4 different external hard drives and every one of some kind of pin keeps breaking that cost 2,000.00 to fix so I just break down and buy another one and spend months redownloading music and movies but I finally got sick of it and decided to go with thumb drives Quote from: weezerwarrior on May 24, 2015, 06:03:59 PM

ive had about 4 different external hard drives and every one of some kind of pin keeps breaking that cost 2,000.00 to fix so I just break down and buy another one and spend months redownloading music and movies but I finally got sick of it and decided to go with thumb drives

Greetings.

There is something that i wish to know and considering my job status its a bit odd to ask as well as a bit behind its time.. I used to burn a LOT of music Cds on standard 700MB CDs and was only able to fit around 19-25 songs depending on the titles. I remember years ago when i was little when in europe friends would exchange CDs in their cars and these disks would contain around 100-200 songs! Not only am i trying hard to remember some of the titles, but i want to know what kind of CD has that capability? I remember id be sitting in a Polonez or a Fiat from time to time in my neighbours car when i was 12-14 and swapping disks and going from 1-150ish songs. Good question. All music on CD or DVD  must be some e kind of DIGITAL form. Unlike the old 45 RPM discs teenagers had 50 years ago.
The standard for CD audio has been to limit the amount  to music to about one hour on one CD.  I think the time limit is 70 min.
When the advent of  new  technologies, data compression allows more music to be  put on the same 700 MB CD disc. One of these is called MP3, which can do a 3 to one compression with almost no loss of quality.  Over 6 to one compression is possible. With careful equalization and other effects, the quality is still good.

Here in the USA many retailers  have entered into some kind of conspiracy with the the record s industry and seldom offer CD players that can decode MP3. Maybe it is not the same in Europe.
This is not my idea. It has been documented.
http://gizmodo.com/239512/gizmodos-anti-riaa-manifesto
Quote

In effect, the RIAA's insistence on strict DRM takes value away from legally purchased music. People have a choice: they can either pirate unrestricted MP3 files that will let them use them however they'd like, or they can pay for files that won't allow them the freedom to listen where and how they choose. It only makes sense that many tech-savvy people choose to download MP3s rather than pay for crippled files. The RIAA wants people to pay for restrictions and like it.

Good question. All music on CD or DVD  must be some e kind of digital form. Unlike the old 45 RPM discs teenagers had 50 years ago.
The standard for CD audio has been to limit the amount  to music to about one hour on one CD.  I think the time limit is 70 min.
When the advent of  new  technologies, data compression allows more music to be  put on the same 700 MB CD disc. One of these is called MP3, which can do a 3 to one compression with almost no loss of quality.  Over 6 to one compression is possible. With careful equalization and other effects, the quality is still good.

Here in the USA many retailers  have entered into some kind of conspiracy with the the record s industry and seldom offer CD players that can decode MP3. Maybe it is not the same in Europe.
This is not my idea. It has been documented.
http://gizmodo.com/239512/gizmodos-anti-riaa-manifesto
But you don't need to buy a new MP3 / CD player for your car. But maybe that is off topic.  Do you want to know what I did?

Geek is right. Before cheap flash memory came along, the only way to carry a lot of mp3 files around, or listen in a car, was to use a CD player with mp3 capability. I still have a portable CD player from around 2002 that I bought in England that plays regular music CDs and also CD-ROMs with mp3 files in folders. Assuming a regular CD-ROM size of 650 MB, and that an average 3 minute song uses around 3 MB, you could fit 200 or more songs on a disk. Most built-in CD players that came with a car could not play mp3 disks but you could buy "after market" units which could. If you had a suitable burner drive in your computer, you could "overburn" some brands of disk and get maybe an extra 50 MB but not all players could play to the end of the disk. My friend had a mp3 capable car player that would not play overburned disks reliably. My portable player used to really eat up the AA cells (4 at a time) so I used to use NiMH rechargeables and carry a spare set.

OK. Best solution. Forget the CD for a moment. Back to that later.
A USB flash drive holds at least 2 GB or more. For some time now anything less that 2GB is not being sold. I mean you get a cheap good flash drive for under $5 from a good on-line source.
What people now  do, if the cannot afford a new car, is buy an MP3to FM converter At Amazon and other places they go for about $20 more or less. I have used these and most work very well. Some have a remote control you can hold in your hand and flip tracks without taking your eyes off the road.
Here is a list of many such gadgets.
MP3 to FM adapters at Amazon
I prefer the one with a remote control and takes a USB flash drive.  Asa you said, flipping tracks from you smart phone is awkward and dangerous.
Now about those MP3 CDs you have. Keep them. Just copy form them direct to the USB flash drive.  With a 2 GB drive you should have enough music for a long road trip. Or get 8 GB and travel for a fortnight.
Does that help? 

BTW: Some of these do both MP3 on USB or else analog audio from a headphone jack. And if you want to use it  in the house, get a 12 wall adapter and clip the leads to the cigarette light plug.
Some models lets you tune to any FM channel.

Exactly. I used to (and still have the machine) burn Cds on my Old Pentium 3 IBM, and using Nero Burning Rom 9, it gave me a max or yes, 70Minutes or 650ish MB and i wouldnt get much on the Cds..

With your iPhone there are some concerns with Digital Rights Management. Of course you can transmit the headphone out via a FM transmitter. But the remote only works for the MP3 device inside the adapter of a M3/FM device sold by Amazon in the link I gave earlier.

Which iPhone? Does it have voice command? You can just tell it to go to the next track. Or can you? Never tried that, mine is an phone 4.

Hey! There is an idea for a new App. One that will catalog your music and play songs your request with voice command. You might  say 'Play Dsperado by Linda Ronstadt' and it would. If  you had it.
Dsperado by Linda Ronstadt

Yeah, it is amazing how cheap the SE Asia people can make some stuff. Hard to believe. The technology is moving faster than social changes.

EDIT:  Missed a detail. When you have audio CDs they can be converted to a good MP3 format that plays on MP3 players using tools like Windows Media Player.
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/rip-music-from-cd#rip-music-from-cd=windows-7

if the program doesn't a "MP3 Audio" option, you can just burn MP3 files to the disk. When you burned the disc you were creating an Audio Disc, which burned it in the standard, uncompressed audio format of Audio CDs.

The program would ask what im burning:

Audio CD
Data CD
or Copy a CD

So i guess i didnt have that choice. So simply dragging and dropping would allow me what i want correct?

I was going to toss out some Pentium 4 class power supplies which are 20 pin type and a friend SUGGESTED I save them and USE them with a cheap 20 to 24 pin adapter which would make the power supply able to work with a modern 24 pin board. Anyone used this type of adapter to say whether it would work or not? I have some better brand P4 power supplies that are like 400 watts etc that I could use if its an ok adaption.

Concern I have with 20 to 24 pin adaption is that, while I haven't checked the pin differences to see what voltages are on the additional 4 PINS in the 24, it appears that they are feeding 4 pins in a Y configuration off of other pins and, if a pin is suppose to have say a dedicated 1 AMP and its now SPLIT between 2 pins, there is additional draw that might weigh down that leg of the power supply.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/291407955450?lpid=82&chn=psThe additional draw is exactly why it adds the extra 4 pins. the 4 pins add a  12v (Yellow) a 5v (Red) a 3.3v(Orange) and an additional Ground pin (Black). The adapters as you've noted simply split those from existing pins.

Of course, whether those pins are separate rails are something I'm not privvy to and probably depends on the PSU itself. Generally more recent power supplies that were made to support the 24-pin connector have increased amperage ratings on the affected rails to account for the increased draw. Older, 20-pin supplies will not have this.

Greetings!

AS a University Student my PCs arnt the greatest. However my desktop isnt the worst. I have an IBM Thincenter 8810-e96 and its a nice system. I recently loaded it up with 4.5GB DDR2 Ram. a huge boost from the 2gb it had. (2gb + 1gb+1gb+512mb) now when it boots i get the message

Extended Ram Failed at Offset 22

a few MONTHS ago i got the message and reseated the ram and it went away. but *censored* back again and not sure whats wrong as i have had Memtest test the ram and it passed in 2 different machines. Perhaps Its not compatible or something? system boots fine into windows 7 HP

Any ideas?I'd say you will have to remove 1 stick and run it for a while and see if the problem comes back. If the problem comes back, remove a different stick and put the prior removed stick back in. Eventually you should get to a point where the problem is gone. Also just a FYI, you probably already know this, but with mixed memory sizes your only able to get single-channel memory mode if the system supports dual channel. I'd start by removing the 512MB stick and see how it runs on 4GB. And if problem comes back place the 512MB stick back in and remove a 1GB stick and bring it to 3.5GB and see what happens. Another thing to CONSIDER is that you might have a bummed memory slot. I had this before where memtest is fine because the connection is made, but the INTERMITTENT connection breaks for even a fraction of a second and then the system crashes or acts up. I have had to populate 3 of 4 slots before and avoid use of a bummed memory slot such as slots 0, 2, and 3 stuffed with RAM and slot 1 left empty because the prior owner of the system damaged the memory slot by rocking the ram stick out vs using the eject wings  as well as another board that I got for free that was failing memcheck at boot and it looked like someone gouged the board with a screw driver and sliced through 2 traces between the memory slots so that only slots 0 and 1 were good and 2 and 3 were unable to be used, so as long as no memory was stuffed into slots 2 and 3 the system would run completely fine. I ended up scraping the mask off the board around these traces and added a strand of wire soldered to bridge the broken traces and get the other 2 slots back.  Quote from: DaveLembke on May 25, 2015, 09:03:58 AM

I'd say you will have to remove 1 stick and run it for a while and see if the problem comes back. If the problem comes back, remove a different stick and put the prior removed stick back in. Eventually you should get to a point where the problem is gone. Also just a FYI, you probably already know this, but with mixed memory sizes your only able to get single-channel memory mode if the system supports dual channel. I'd start by removing the 512MB stick and see how it runs on 4GB. And if problem comes back place the 512MB stick back in and remove a 1GB stick and bring it to 3.5GB and see what happens. Another thing to consider is that you might have a bummed memory slot. I had this before where memtest is fine because the connection is made, but the intermittent connection breaks for even a fraction of a second and then the system crashes or acts up. I have had to populate 3 of 4 slots before and avoid use of a bummed memory slot such as slots 0, 2, and 3 stuffed with RAM and slot 1 left empty because the prior owner of the system damaged the memory slot by rocking the ram stick out vs using the eject wings  as well as another board that I got for free that was failing memcheck at boot and it looked like someone gouged the board with a screw driver and sliced through 2 traces between the memory slots so that only slots 0 and 1 were good and 2 and 3 were unable to be used, so as long as no memory was stuffed into slots 2 and 3 the system would run completely fine. I ended up scraping the mask off the board around these traces and added a strand of wire soldered to bridge the broken traces and get the other 2 slots back. 

I have an HP Laser Jet Pro 400 Color printer-M451dn.  I was replacing the black ink cartridge this morning and walked AWAY for a few minutes.  I was very focused on finishing a project I'm working on so when I returned I immediately printed a paper and completely forgot to finish the process of installing a new cartridge.  The page with a large block of black ink plus the words "cleaning page" and an arrow printed.  My prints are now fuzzy and the ink is slightly GREEN toned.  I tried opening my HP tool box but it isn't opening.  I took the black cartridge out and put it back in HOPING I could pick up where it left off but that didn't work.  I've turned the printer off and back on but nothing changed.  I'm sure it's obvious that I'm a novice...Any help would be appreciated!It may merely be miswording, but a Laser printer doesn't use ink. Presumably, you mean toner. I certainly HOPE so, at least!

What steps for replacement of the toner cartridge  did you complete?

If you somehow did install an actual Ink (rather than toner) cartridge... well I don't even WANT to imagine what may have happened. I just hope that was misworded!Quack search on 'HP Laser Jet Pro 400 Color printer' shows an office style lasewr printer that takes toner. The full set is four toners.
For what its worth, here is a review of that laser:
http://www.pcworld.com/article/251612/hp_laserjet_pro_400_color_m451nw_review_nice_laser_printer_is_duplex_deprived.html
The review was somewhat critical of the quality of the printer.
Quote

Expensive toner and the lack of automatic duplexing make this small-office printer less appealing than it could be.

I have an Asus T300 and I have just reactivated it after a long storage. I confess my IGNORANCE but have FORGOTTEN how to where the CAMERA is.  There is no app that I can find and hunting for a manual is not EASY on the Internet. Is there a specific app. available for the T300 that I can download?
HELP appreciated.Sorry, found it .

Hi guys,
I've got an (very) old PC from 2008. After I dropped it somewhere for about 2 years or so, yesterday when  my laptop broke, I remembered that I had this old rig.  So I took it out and tried to boot from a linux live USB and to my surprise it worked like a charm.
 
However after a while I went on Youtube to watch some videos when suddenly it froze, completely. No mouse movement, no keyboard...nothing. First I thought the CPU might have been the culprit but no...then I checked the RAM (from the BIOS) it seems to be FINE too. Then I installed Windows 7 on it. DOWNLOADED SpeedFan and HWMonitor and went on Youtube again, while watching videos I noticed that one of the temperatures was constantly INCREASING, from 38 to over 60 and then the PC froze again at about 62. I believe it is the motherboards temperature since HWMonitor shows it as Motherboard temperature.  Both SpeedFan and HWMonitor show the same temperatures so I guess the sensors are working fine.
 
So my question is could an overheating mobo cause a PC to freeze just like that or am I just guessing wrong? And if yes, is it somehow possible to prevent themobo from overheating or I need to run the fans at 100 just like I am right now?
 
HP Compaq, Intel dual core 3.0. 2 GB RAM. 40GB HDD (internal), 250 GB (external, from broken laptop).
Thanks in advance. Quote

my question is could an overheating mobo cause a PC to freeze just like that

I'm LOOKING for a laptop with a SIMILAR screen to my old ALIENWARE M18x. I'm looking at the specs for the screen and I'm GETTING descriptions like these:

Full HD WLED LCD

1080p Full HD WLED LCD display

WideFHD (1920x1080) WLED

WLED WideFHD

According to this review
http://www.notebookcheck.net/Review-Alienware-M18x-R2-Notebook.77048.0.html

The display panel is a TN display. I just want to make sure it is. I know TN displays have LESS color accuracy than IPS displays but if my old Alienware M18x had a TN display I'm actually OK with the color inaccuracies (compared to IPS). Thanks.

hi im a gamer. I want to downgrade my cpu for better visuals. will a lower cpu make more heat on my gpu? I right now have a amd fx 8350 cpu i want to downgrade to a amd phenom series for better visuals. I have compared the 2 visually. fx series and phenom series. and to me I like the phenom series much better.

I have a amd fx 8350 cpu with a amd r9 270x gpu, and want to downgrade to cpu like a "amd phenom ii x4 or x6. will lower cpu  like "amd phenom ii x4 or x6" put more heat on the gpu, like when playing games. right now most games I play like arma 3 only reaches around 45c degrees

same question with amd Athlon seriesWhy would downgrading your CPU give "better visuals"?
Quote

i want to downgrade to a amd phenom series for better visuals. I have compared the 2 visually. fx series and phenom series. and to me I like the phenom series much better.

What you are talking about makes no sense, downgrading your CPU will not bring any benefit at all.  What makes you think it would?

the GPU is responsible for your display. The differences you saw had nothing to do with the CPU. If there were differences, it is either because of differences between the Graphics cards in the systems you observed, or as a result of the "lower CPU" requiring more conservative options. But you can set those conservative options on any system if you happen to prefer their appearance.

Why would downgrading your CPU give "better visuals"?

That is nothing to do with the CPU, they are totally different systems, you are barking up the wrong tree here.  The CPU has nothing to do with how good the graphics on the screen look.

The only difference between the two of those CPUs in that video is that the game runs smoother on the i5.  This is because it is a more powerful CPU than the AMD FX 8350, not less powerful!

so anyways  will a lower cpu make more heat on my gpu? I want to downgrade my cpu from amd fx series to amd athlon or phenom

...feel free to ignore our advice and do it but don't come back and moan when you realize that you've wasted your money.

Hey there, I RECENTLY purchased an SSD that is CAPABLE of 60gb, and I've installed windows 7 only on it (which TAKES 20gb), but apparently it says that my SSD has only 10GB left free in the drive, I calculated everything installed on it, and I must have 30gb more free. This is BS and it pissed me off, does anyone have an idea of what's going on? SSD is from the BRAND ADATA.Go to disk manager under windows 7 which will show all partitions and unused space info and see what the partition sizes are divided up to.

- Right-click my computer from desktop

- Manage

- Disk Management

And you should see the info under Disk 0hmmmm id say u have multiple partitions and its not giving u an accurate reading on whats realy free

How do you make sure your CPU is powerful enough to support your GPU? What do you LOOK for to make sure the GPU won't be bottlenecked by the CPU? I'm trying to figure out what i7 CPU I'll need if I want 980M SLI in my laptop, instead of just a single 980M. Thanks! Laptop? You are building a laptop?
Th manufacturers are best qualified to match components in a laptop.
Among other thins, they don't want the battery to catch fire! 

A more important question is about your budget.
 Do you want  to pay $2000?
More?
Less?
It matters.

Have you read anything LIKE this?
Intel Core i7-4770K 'Haswell' HD Graphics 4600 GPU[/url00]
Quote

Just like on Sandy Bridge and Ivy Bridge, Intel has integrated a quad-core CPU, graphics, cache, a memory controller and PCI-Express connectivity into a single silicon die.

Laptop? You are building a laptop?
Th manufacturers are best qualified to match components in a laptop.

How do you make sure your CPU is powerful enough to support your GPU? What do you look for to make sure the GPU won't be bottlenecked by the CPU? I'm trying to figure out what i7 CPU I'll need if I want 980M SLI in my laptop, instead of just a single 980M. Thanks!

You should however consider whether you (a) actually need the machine to be a laptop and (b) are happy with the disadvantages of having dual GPUs in a laptop (much more heat, low battery life, high power consumption.etc).

I'd also like to try undervolting; is undervolting limited to only the CPU or can a GPU be undervolted or not used completely? If I got dual GPU would I have the option to use only one to lower temperature?

Scalable Link Interface (SLI) is a brand name for a multi-GPU technology developed by NVIDIA for linking two or more video cards together to produce a single output. SLI is an algorithm of parallel processing for computer graphics, meant to increase the processing power available for graphics.

Just so you know Geek...and for future reference...there is no such thing as a "high end" MSI product...Period end.

You have eliminated 5 of the major laptop manufturers....sounds like your mind is already made up.

Greetings!

About 2 years ago i made a purchase of an Acer AM3970-ES11p Tower. Now usually i build my own systems but i couldnt pass up an i7 for $250. Its an i7 2600K, 6GB of RAM, and a 1.5TB green drive on clearance. I later added a Used NVidia Geforce 9600GT 512mb.

Anyways, (great bargain eh) i just did a format reload my way, not acers crappy restore with extra software no one uses. I used a legit windows key formatted the system got the drivers for everything its great! Since my brother is using this system i havnt used it for a year. However im currently doing a virus scan on the 200GB he decided to keep because the machine was badly infected but It seems like that green drive is SLLLLLOOOOOOOOW. I copied 219Gb in 3 hours from it back to it. 3 Hours each. Right now im copying the same exact Data to my system that has a WD black and within a few minutes its copied 45Gb and it says 1 hour remaining.

The computer seems sluggish and since im not used to a green drive and i know their slower is there anything i can do to maybe unlock it so it doesnt spin down to 5400RPM? I was debating if i wanted to actually install windows on an Old 80Gb WD blue, and have that green drive as the secondary slave drive to make windows and general usage faster. Any thoughts? Too much information.
You test a drive with the tools from the maker.
If it is measurably slow, you replace it.
FYI, speeding time with drive our know to be defective is as waster of effort.
That standard speed for desktop hard drives is 7200 RPM.
You can buy a new brand name HDD for about $60 for a 500 GB.
Hard Drive Price.

Old drives can be recycled as doorstops. 
its not a dying drive. Its a Green drive. So it runs low power at 5400RPM and speeds up to 7200 when it needs to. But that causes lag. so i was wondering if i can set in the settings somewhere for it to always be at 7200Might be an option under Power Management or BIOS management to go max performance. I have never owned a variable speed drive like this before. Only green drives I have ever had were the ones that in power management you tell to go to put the drive to sleep after sat 15 minutes of inactivity ETC. And then when you go to use the drive it then has to spin up and then access data. I only used this feature on laptops when running on battery power ALTHOUGH i suppose it might make a desktop systems drive(s) last longer if they were not constantly spinning when idle etc. Quote from: comda on May 27, 2015, 10:48:53 AM

So i was wondering if i can set in the settings somewhere for it to always be at 7200

its not a dying drive. Its a Green drive. So it runs low power at 5400RPM and speeds up to 7200 when it needs to. But that causes lag. so i was wondering if i can set in the settings somewhere for it to always be at 7200

I purchased an hp laptop and it shows the RAM as 4 GB SODIMM 1333 MHz.
The RAM specifications as given on the site are 4 GB 1600 MHz DDR3.
The laptop was given for repair at hp service center because the original RAM was defective according to what hp told me.

Is the new RAM same as the PREVIOUS in terms of specifications ?
I am not as good at computer hardware so I'm sorry if you feel the question is very childish.The RAM is likely 1333 able to be 1600 with O.C.

My one friend in Mexico had a similar issue with a Core i7 build that was only running at 1333. Maybe this article will help about the XMP configuration in BIOS to get it to 1600.

HTTP://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2030208/1600-ram-1333-bios.html

more here on HP, not laptop like yours but desktop and the XMP config to get 1600 http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Desktop-Hardware/RAM-Enabling-XMP-Profiles-on-HP-ENVY-Phoenix-800-030qe-CTO/td-p/3822684/page/2

I have recently moved my hard drive from an HP Pavilion a620n to a HP Pavilion a1330n. This hard drive has WINDOWS XP Home edition installed. No sound works, games that have need sound don't work, I can't work with out sound for my job. I need help. Yes, I have researched this and went to the hp site with no avail. I have tried sp26608 and sp26792. Neither WORKED. When I try updating the DRIVER through windows update it fails.

The picture is the device manger.
the second is the result of the things I have tried.


[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]You really shouldn't be moving a hard drive with Windows installed between two machines, it can't cope with that and will cause issues like you are experiencing.  You should always install Windows on the machine that you are going to be using it on.If your thinking that i move them back and forth. I am not. But okay. Should i just reinstall windows?I WOULD yeah.  When you install Windows it sets itself up for the hardware it sees during the installation process, it's simply not DESIGNED to cope with moving system.Thank you.

So, Intel latest generation is 5th right?

I have 3 questions:

1/ What socket the newest Intel generation's CPUs will use?
2/Is there a motherboard which supports both socket 775 and the newest Intel CPU socket?
3/ So, it is useless to buy a 4th generation Intel CPU now?

Thank youI assume by "Newest generation" you are referring to Skylake which is their upcoming release and not Haswell Refresh which is their current desktop one.

• From what I can find online Skylake will use socket 1151, Haswell Refresh currently USES socket 1150
• No, totally impossible
• Well, it depends if you want to wait for the new ones to come out or not, the current ones are still perfectly good CHIPS.  If you always wait for the next version of something to come out, you will never buy anything!

2/Is there a motherboard which supports both socket 775 and the newest Intel CPU socket?

Intel dropped the brand, as it failed to appeal to corporate buyers, and discouraged new system sales.

I have a SAMUNG NP305V5A that had a broken screen a few months ago and i put it aside because i could not find the right screen. I BOUGHT the display recently and installed it. I put the power adaptor and it indicates power is on but when i tried to power it on the power button just blinks and nothing happens. What could possibly be wrong? thanks in advance.Did it also do this with the BAD display installed or is this a NEW symptom?With bad display it working, just that the display was cracked and the images were not seen well as a RESULT.

I have a problem with my SCANNER.  I have a epson cx7400 flatbed all in one.  I was going to try and scan a document but the scanner would not capture all of the letter sized document.  I uninstalled the printer and downloaded the DRIVER again. I attempted to scan and I got this error message.

Epson scan can not be started. Please use the TROUBLESHOOTING assistant.  I opened it and I got these options which included "try using a different Twain compliant application" what does that mean?

It then asked if my computer met the system requirements and it is the same computer from which I printed and scanned for two years. 

Can you please help meError messages do not always provide correct information.
Does the printer still print?
Can you use the printer DIRECTLY to copy a printed page?
The Epson cx7400 flatbed all in one is said to also copy a page without the computer. "PC- Free Paper Support" Does it still do that?

Hi everyone, i think I damaged my COMPUTER. My old tower pc did not have a power on/off switch, so whenever I would need reattach the power supply cord I would plug it first into the shut off surge protector outlet, then I would plug the other end into the PSU and I would turn on the surge protector. However, I just got a new tower pc and I connected the power cord to the shut off surge protector outlet and then I connected the other end of the power cable into my computer and I turned on the surge protector (My computer was turned off during this whole process) However, I didn't realize that this power supply UNIT had a on off switch on the back. I think I'm being overly paranoid. But I was reading a couple of articles about power surges, and I'm worried that by turning on my surge protector while having the PSU on off switch set on "on" , the sudden flow of electricity could have damaged my computer. Since, I think the proper procedure should start by having PSU on off on "off" before I one turns the main power source on. Did I damage my computer by having the PSU on/off switch set on "on"when I turned on the surge protector ? ThanksIs your computer a DIY job? It ought to have a power unbutton.

Well, to my knowledge, the power switch itself does not control power surges. Bu that would be an innovative idea for a new invention.
Normally you turn a Desktop computer off or on by a push button on the FRONT. Using the f the electrical plug may cause some small damage  to the hard drive if a write operation was in progress. Windows might do s a write to the Hard drive just before power off. IMO, that is a design flaw.

In any case, that should not be a resewn for the computer to fail all together. Does it still WORK?



Hi Geek-9pm,  thanks for the reply. My computer was off during this entire process . I'm just saying that I had the PSU switch set on "on" when I turned on the power for the surge protector . I was worried that this caused some damage. Do you think it did ?No, that will not cause any problems.  PCs are generally fairly tough, you really don't need to worry about how you plug it in or what is switched on/off when you do.

That switch is merely a way to isolate the PSU from the mains supply without unplugging it, it's not some sort of EXACT science.

i recently got my HANDS on a HP Compaq 6000 Pro microtower. anyway, thereisnt much to talk aabout inside right now, but i have an oppurtunity to get my hands on a few parts. im just not sure if they will fit/or work on the BOARD or which would be the best way to go. i plan on using it for GAMING, specifically- WOW, COD. not trying to make aa super awesome pc, just pretty good. that being said, heres the parts im thinking about getting.
not real sure if this will even work on that board.
AMD FX-4130 Quad-Core 32/64 Bit Processor - $50

Core
Zambezi
Processor
FX 4130 Black Edition
Operating Frequency
3.8GHz
Turbo Speed
3.9GHz
Number of Cores
Quad-Core
 not sure about this ram, all i know is that the pc does run ddr3, just not sure if this is compatable .
 Corsair Vengeance 8gb ddr3 ram BRAND NEW! - $60
 and finally theres these 3 video cards. all 3 seem pretty cool, but if im gonna get 1, then i want to be happy with it.
1. ASUS NVidia GeForce GTX 550 Ti GDDR5 1GB - $60
2.  EVGA SuperClocked GeForce GTX 650 2GB GDDR5 PCI Express Video Card - $65
3. Brand: DIAMOND
Model: 6850PE51G

Interface:
PCI Express 2.1 x16

Chipset Manufacturer:
AMD

GPU:
Radeon HD 6850

Core Clock:
775MHz

Stream Processors:
960 Stream Processors


Effective Memory Clock:
1000MHz (4.0Gbps)

Memory Size:
1GB

Memory Interface:
256-Bit

Memory Type:
GDDR5


DirectX 11

OpenGL 4.1

Ports:
1 x HDMI
1 x DisplayPort
2 x DVI (1 Single Link, 1 Dual Link)

RAMDAC:
400 MHz

Max Resolution:
2560 x 1600

if anyone out there can give me a little input on these parts, like if they will even work on the pc and/or if they are simply not worth the money , and which i should go with would be greatly appreciated. thanks guys!!!HP Compaq 6000 Pro.
Huh? Is that a Intel machine?
Dis you  say you want to put a AMD chip in it?
Was this machine made in 2009? When
Intel Core 2 Duo  8600 is given in specs. Right?

I really don't know much about this. But I do not think a CPU upgrade is worthwhile.  Here is way. The machine is old and it was great in its time. Be sanitized with what  you have.
Geek is right. This is an Intel board. So no AMD processor will fit. These 5 to 7 year old ex-office PCs are very cheap, but not worth upgrading.

I bought a webcam but when it happens to be installed, I installed its software, then I installed the webcam into the usb port, but it doesn't work, the message was Sorry, You have no video capture hardware. I poped back to the shop, I returned it and I changed it, but the problem is the same, I changed 3 times and 2 makes but still the same problem.

I am fed up I don't know why it doesn't work.I tried to get video capture from other device like digital camera, digital camera did get video capture.Welcome to the forum;

Up to date and latest drivers installed?
Other video programs disabled? (PC NetMeeting, MSN, Yahoo! Messenger)
 Video Capture WDM driver does not work in Windows 98
By chance are you using  Windows ? Did you make sure your system can handle the requirements on the webcam box?
Windows XP

   1. Click Start > control panel
   2. Click Sounds, Speech and Audio Devices
   3. Click Sounds and Audio Devices
   4. Click Hardware
   5. Select your Video Capture Device
   6. Click properties
   7. Under General select Device USAGE > Use This Device (Enable)
   8. Click OK (You may have to restart the computer)

Post what you have for a system and we can go from there first*.

ChickBill ........ There must be some reason your webcam wont function for you ....... Could you please post the brand name and model of the webcam.
Also let us know which operating system you are using .  the type of processor you have installed would be helpful as well.

dl65  My Operating system is Windows XP, The web cam is Mikomi,but before I tried Labtec,but it did not work.My processor is AMD Duron. thank u all for your REPLIES. i 'll try all the recommendations.Also, what motherboard do you have?  Does it have USB 2.0 ports, not USB 1.1?  Do the webcams you've tried require USB 2.0?  ChickBill ........ Thank you for providing the brand name of the webcam........but is there a model number as "Mikomi" have more than one model.
The other thing to check is......... does the webcam you purchased require a USB 1.1 or USB 2 ........ and what are the minimum system requirements......?


dl65