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I've got my computer and 2 of my friends.
All have the same problem- nothing displayed on the monitor (tried multiple monitors...)
2 of them are new builds and my one is an old one.
It's very highly unlikely that it's the GPU, seeing as I've tested 3 of them.
I've ORDERED a new motherboard and CPU to test it, as it seems to be the only resonable option.

One of the COMPUTERS has a USED motherboard in, which is not known if it is broken or not, so that doesn't matter.
One is completely new apart from the GPU- but I've tested all 3 of my cards in there. The GPU was brought off ebay (ATI 4850) and it has a Arctic Cooling Accelero Twin Turbo and none of the fans go. (however, on the other two, they do.)

I know this is very confusing, reply with any more questions or help. I am an experienced PC BUILDER, but I'm very stuck on this one.This is very confusing.. What exactly is not working? Which board? which componant? What is the problem exactly? Quote from: Mulreay on May 05, 2009, 05:06:34 PM

This is very confusing.. What exactly is not working? Which board? which componant? What is the problem exactly?

3 machines...
2 friends...
1 Vid card...

Bad card from eBay.

Hi all;
I am not any type of expert but I just had my first dealings with SATA Drives And Vista also;
I did a lot of googling & got a dual boot finally. what i ended up doing was take my SATA Drive & made into 2- partitions,left both "unallocated";Ran my HP Vista restore disks & put vista on the first partition,when I was finished it had taken the first partition & made a 10gb Restore Partition  & the balance was the SYSTEM partition.=C:\ & D:\.
It would only let me convert the rest of the drive into a SIMPLE Volume,I needed a Primary Partition to install XP, Vista doesn't Like another Primary after it.I googled it & there are posts on how to use Vista's System to turn Unallocated space into a Primary Partition;I think it was "DelPart" Its part of VISTA,I then installed XP & set it all up;On my computer You hit "esc" to choose boot options,I booted into C:\Vista.
 I had already found a SMALL program on my googling "EasyBCD" which has simple Instructions on running it & it rewrites Vistas Bootloader so you have a choice just like XP to 2K,ECT.
I now have C:\Vista, D:\Restore E:\XP.It works Beautiful. Just GOOGLE" install XP after Vista allready Installed..Some sites say you can't, but once you get all the info it was quiet simple.
The only programs I needed was the Vista restore Disks,The XP Install disks & The "EasyBCD" Program.
Maybe help someone out.   
                                   Lencojoe   

P.S. see  APCMAG.COM =How to.  
Lencojoe, thanks for the info, but I all ready have the new HD so I am going to do it on that.I am going to go and try this tomorrow. Let me just make sure: The LINK I sent you guys with the HP thing. The drivers for Vista are the ones I should download, even for HP? or should I go directly to the CHIPSET website and see if anything is there?

I'm trying to fix my kids PC its a bit old but was working OK,then it began going strange...

first it wouldn't find my monitor on start up no signal...
this still happens OCCASIONALLY but i just reset the bios buy unplugging the battery this seems to work..(temp)
but then when i even try to go into bios screen after 15 seconds it will freeze,screen,keyboard mouse,drives,Cd's all stop working and i have to reset it.
i have tried ram as i have spare yes the correct type and the PC says its OK on start,windows will attempt to load but 15 secs in freeze all STOP again.

all fans spin and you can hear the hard drive no bad sound off the board i.e bleeps to say there a problem please help....cheers Have you replaced that CMOS battery ? ?
This sounds like a PSU issue...borrow a known working one of the same wattage or greater and swap it in there for a few days to test.thanks for a reply but i have fixed the problem as follows...

1> replaced the Cmos battery with new (after 10 Min's out)
2. found that the glue holding the CPU fan had melted so it had slipped (only by cm) so replaced glue fan etc
3. replaced ribbon (again) damaged to hard driver's
4. reinstalled windows xp pro

this solved all problems but thank you again for replying hope it helps others

p.s know anything about windows 7 as i got another PC.higher spec worked great on vista with my At 1650 pro graphics card but has lighting probs on windows 7 , etc...
What exactly do you mean by lighting problems on Win7 ? ?
I'm RUNNING both the 32 and 64 bit versions...im runnig 32 bit as i only have 2 gig ram 4 gig required for 64 etc...lighting as in on games if i LOOK at a wall the coulors are BLOTCHY and square not in sync as in  well lightd areas even on old games the blotches appear or dark tunnels .ie in alone in the dark worked brill,but bad graphics in windows 7,because of lighting....Which ATI drivers do you have installed under Win7 ? ?SORRY been away...well the drivers i have are the only ones it will let me install via the ati/amd site the one off my disc came with card version 7.11 or the vista version 8.12 only hd cards are listed on the ati site 2400 and above, but the catalyst version will update to 9.3 but not my drivers says fail....any help to you...Use the drivers that shipped with the card....
I have an 8600 GTX eVGA and they work fine on both ver. of Win7...

Hi.  The computer I am having problems with is  Dell Dimension 4700 from about 2004 with WINDOWS XP and 2 GB Ram, I don't really know the other specifications.  Well I have a few flash drives, 1 of them is a 1 GB Cruzer which sometimes works with it, one if a 4 GB cruzer that I haven't used on this computer, and one is a 16 GB OCZ Deisel which will NOT work on this computer. 

I have tried basically every USB port in the computer, and when I put it in you know that noise it usually makes in XP when there is a low pitched note and then a higher pitched note?  When I put this drive in I get 2 of the low pitched notes and it doesn't read the flash drive.  I don't know why it doesn't work, since it works on my Vista computer and all the XP computers at my school... maybe this computer is too old?? Any other answers? Thanks.Do you have any USB devices (printer, etc.) that work on that computer?It's also confusing because you mention 3 different units...
Apply the following questions to each flash drive:
Does it work on another machine ?
Are you using front USB ports or rear ?
Did it ever work ?
Was it purchased on eBay ?
Does it show up in Disk Management ?I actually found a solution to the problem.  the flash drive wasn't getting read by the computer, but I went to Add Hardware in the Control panel and it recognized that I had the flash drive in, it just wasn't doing ANYTHING, so I added the hardware and found the drivers for it, and it works now.

I hate to throw away this LCD monitor before knowing absolutely that it's garbage.  I've gone through a troubleshooting PROCESS with it but want to give it one last check.

The monitor was working fine then one day I cold booted Windows, and when POST finished and when the Vista log-on screen appeared, the screen goes dark.  I can get the screen to come back if I shut down the monitor and turn it back on, but it only stays on for about 7 seconds. 

I tried plugging the monitor into another computer with XP and GOT the same problem.  I don't have another VGA cable to try so I used my multimeter to test the continuity of the 15 individual wires running through the cable  and they all checked out OK. 

I noticed a sticker on the monitor that says, "This monitor is PROTECTED my Gateway anti-theft software"  COULD this have anything to do with the problem?

If it has worked for years, then the software is not what the problem is, unless it has never worked on EITHER of these computers.
The only other thing it could be is that the line that checks for a video card is not properly sending, or receiving power.
That would cause it to go to sleep.

Do you know which pin controls the power?
no I don't know which pin controls the power, but I did test all of them and according the multimeter they're all working.  I used the continuity tester where you get a constant beep if all is working...   and each pin checked out OK


Edit: do you by any chance know what the OHM (resistance) value is suppose to be across each wire?   I'm getting continuity, but maybe not enough continuity.  Maybe there is a tiny brake in one of the wires that is allowing for continuity, but not enough of a connection exsists for proper amount of current to flow......if you catch my drift

If I can find out the proper OHM value, then I can check that against the actually Resistance reading on the wires    and if I'm getting something other than what the value is suppose to be, I'll try purchasing another VGA cable

Edit: uh, I think length of the VGA cable makes a difference in what the ohm value should be, I'll try to look around and just figure it outTry moving your cord while having the monitor connected, if the display comes online then its the cord.
I've already tried moving the chord around, while it is connected

...I do have an extra CRT monitor

To be sure the problem is not the cable, I could order a Female VGA Gender Changer, so I could plug the VGA cable into a computer lile normal, and then connect that to a CRT monitor.  If the monitor works then we can conclude that the VGA cable is good and the LCD monitor is bad.

If it doesn't work, then the VGA cable is bad and the LCD could still be good! I guess I could try the DVI interface on the LCD monitor as well, since there is one optional.  Maybe it's only the VGA interface that's bad.  ONe of my friends has a computer with a DVI video card, I try it in his computer and see what happends..

I have a new ATI HD 2400 card. When I watch live video at www.willow.tv, the colors are all wrong. I get mostly just blues, greens and reds. The video runs on Windows Media Player. I'm running XP. I'm using the latest drivers.

I didn't have this problem with my old video card.I would say this is a Codec problem, try the same video in a PROGRAM like VLC = http://www.videolan.org/
That has allot of in built codecs, if it works in there then you need to update your codec selection.

For info on how to do that, let us know how this worksSince this is live video on the website, I cannot choose the player to watch it on. It is built in to the website.

However I solved the problem by turning off Windows Media Video ACCELERATION in the ATI Catalyst control panel.

Thanks for your help.Ah, I seemed to have missed the part about he embeddedness of the video... sorry about that.be sure you do have latest version of the graphics card drivers.

When I connect my LAPTOP to my PS3 a MEDIA PLAYER sign shows up on the PS3 menu screen but I can't seem to transfer music pics etc. Any IDEA how I can do it direct without using my Ipod? Thanks in advanceHow are you connecting your laptop to the PS3?Network cableYou CANT transfer files over an Ethernet cable.

The best way to do is is to just use a USB drive. Like my Ipod as I do anyway. Just wondered why Media player shows up but can't do anything with it.

Well I recently bought this computer and have had no problems with it.  Processor is AMD Phenom 9850 quad-core 2.50 GHz with 6.00 GB ram.  The problems i've been experiencing start with a SLOW start up/shut down and an unresponsive program startup (for example, MSN or Trend Micro will become unresponsive when attempting to start up and I will have to wait awhile before they all load.).  After I get through all of that the programs I start myself will randomly become unresponsive; this happens about every 30 seconds followed by 10-15 seconds of the program not responding.

I have blew out all of the dust that had settled with compressed air, my OS (Vista) is completely up to date, and my last scan was two days ago which removed 1 nonserious threat.  However i've been having this problem off and on for a week or two.  Running SpeedFan i've noticed my GPU being quite hot so i've set up a thirdparty fan to blow COOL air into my open case which seems to help a bit. 

GPU: 64C (without the third party fan it almost hits 80 idle)
Temp1: 39C
Temp2: -128C(?)
Temp3: 38C
Core: 38C

Also while monitoring the performance tab in Windows Task Manager I will get random CPU Usage spikes JUMPING from 4% -> 30+%.

I've ran multiple virus and spyware programs and removed every threat they found but it still gives me problems.

Hi-Jack This log can be posted if needed.  Thanks for your help in advance.What kind of hard drive activity is there when it freezes?I'm not 100% on what you're asking.  The only thing i've noticed when it's acting this way is that folders take a longer time to show their contents and the Start bar that SHOWS the clock/icons/open files freezes until it becomes responsive, the desktop icons still light up and are able to be opened, however, when I move my mouse over the Start bar or the unresponsive program I get the loading circle that vista uses.Try to remove that video card altogether, and revert to on-board video for testing purposes.Don't post your Hi-Jack This log in this thread, but I think that's where you may find the problem.......Post it in the Spyware and Virus thread......I think that that 127C may be the default for "no sensor found" in speedfan.

HI.. CAN ANYONE HELP ME! I HAVE THIS PC AND IT ALWAYS SHUTDOWN AT START UP.  I ALREADY CHANGED THE PSU, CLEAN EVERYTHING, CHANGED THE RAM AND I EVEN REMOVE ALL THE STUFF INSIDE LIKE hd,ram, & video card AND IT'S STILL THE SAME. DO YOU THINK IT'S THE BOARD THAT CAUSES THIS PROBLEM? I DON'T THINK THE ISSUE IS ABOUT THE SOFTWARE. WILL SOMEONE HELP ME OUT.If you have REPLACED everything but the mobo it is definitely a good STARTING point.

Do you have all the motherboard standoffs in place?this is a long shot, but try a different mouse or keyboard....I've had a similar problem with another computer and when I looked in the CMOS BOOT LOG, it showed multiple KEYBOARD errors.................it could be an I/O conflict resulting from a bad input device

good luckHmm... do you know how far into the startup it gets before it shutdowns on you? Quote from: Griff on May 06, 2009, 04:25:49 PM

Hmm... do you know how far into the startup it gets before it shutdowns on you?

this is a long shot, but try a different mouse or keyboard....I've had a similar problem with another computer and when I looked in the CMOS BOOT LOG, it showed multiple KEYBOARD errors.................it could be an I/O conflict resulting from a bad input device

good luck

Hi everyone,

I just discovered a small mark on my monitor this evening.  It's a small bright spot, maybe a little smaller than the eye of a needle, and is in the upper left hand corner of the screen.  It's fixed there and doesn't show up when I take a screenshot of the area.  I can make it out easier when the screen is white and not black or a dark color.

You can barely notice it, but it's bugging me.  I suspect it might be a dead pixel, but I searched for dead pixels on Google images and it doesn't really look similar.  I'm on a Macbook that's less than a year old.

Please help. 

Thanks a lot!it probably is a dead pixel. One of my old CRT monitors had a number of black "specks" in the middle of the screen. Count your BLESSINGS that yours is in a corner  BC, thank you for the PROMPT reply!  This looks a little different from the images of dead and stuck pixels I've seen.  The spot on my screen almost looks like a really small, SLIGHTLY bright blur.  Do you think it's still a dead pixel?  I've heard you can fix these by gently applying pressure with a pen cap or something--is that true?


depends. Is this a LCD or a CRT?

if it's an LCD it could actually be a problem with the backlight; as an example my really old thinkpad laptop has a small "ring" around the middle of the screen at the bottom, which is where the wires enter the Backlight; this portion get's hot enough it changes the brightness of the light coming out, affecting the view on the screen. It's almost 2 inches wide but generally not distracting.

To it's credit my old laptops screen was Designed to come apart entirely without tools for projectors so it was easy to CHECK inside.



This might be similar to what is happening to your DISPLAY, if it is LCD, perhaps a warm component is in that corner and has caused a similar (harmless, by the way) warping to that specific corner.

Hi,
I posted this on another (inferior!) site, but no one would give me an answer specific to the PDA I am ACTUALLY asking about.

Hopefully someone here can give me an answer regarding my Compaq IPAQ 3970 - I am sure the answer must be in the technical DATA somewhere, but I cannot find it. Even if I did it might as well be in Chinese!!

Thanks in advance!

I have an old Compaq Ipaq 3970 which I allowed to discharge and lost all the data.
I sent it to a Data Recovery Company to see if any recovery was possible, they came back and said it was not possible:
'This device uses ram flash memory therefore as soon as the power is lost all data is lost and does not exist to be recovered'
CONCLUSION: No recovery possible

However my IT guy in the Office said that apparently the Conclusion is a contradiction RAM would normally lose data when it loses power & Flash Memory would keep at least something.

I have no idea who is correct, so I thought I would try a second opinion from you guys!!If my guy is correct should I get a second recovery firm to take a look or is there no hope?

Thanks again!I think your I/T person is closer to being correct! 

RAM is GENERALLY temporary memory. 

Flash memory will generally "hold" but I'm hedging -- I suspect, given a long enough time frame, that even flash memory will degrade.  I also imagine sometimes errors and things happen, too.Flash memory probably has a limit but it's yet to be experienced- most of the time flash memory dies from too many write cycles.

However they might have made a typo, and the device might NOT use flash memory, which seems a BIT silly if you ask me.Oh, man...if the PDA ran from RAM only, that would su -- not be good!

I need a little help.I am not sure which memory I need to get.. My computer has 2 sticks of 512 ddr memory? and 2 slots are empty..   I found this page with the memory info for my computer..
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c00883080&cc=us&lc=en&dlc=en&product=3409102

 but am not sure which memory to upgrade to.  can I get 2 1 gigs? would it interfere with the 2 512's?
   I have looked at a few sites, but the  TYPES I have seen  are confusing to a older gal like me.  Can anyone SUGGEST a good brand, for my computer  that will not burn out fast. Tia for the help.
 Cherylfollow TEH below link and run the scanner. It will tell you EXACTLY what kind of ram you can use.

http://www.crucial.com/systemscanner/

I installed a new graphics card in my computer.  After doing so I checked my temperatures with speed fan, and my video card was reading 50 to 51 degrees C.
This of course put little flame icons next to the temps. I then went out and bought a fan to install in some of the vacant PCI slot covers to blow some extra air at my video card. This disappointingly only brought my temperatures down to 49 degrees C. I am curious to know what the normal operating temperature of a graphics card should be. I should mention I am getting these temps at idle.

BFG GeForce 9400 GT 1 GB DDR2
Front and rear case fans, a side vent fan, graphics fan in a the vacant PCI slots, 140mm on PSU + CPU cooler fan. So there is plenty of air moving inside the case.
Video card can take much more heat, than CPU, so with 50-51C, you're perfectly fine.check the manufacturer documentation for the Ideal Video Card temperature....

Are you sure you pointed the fans in the right direction....(Blowing in- NOT out) I've never added a fan before but I'm sure it's possible to install with the air blowing in the wrong direction. Furthermore, have you visually varified that the new fans are spinning?

If it appears your computer is idle and still are experiencing the problem, try Task Manager, click on the Performence Tab and monitor for a little while....If your computer is Idle and are seeing CPU spikes, it could be that there are viruses....If that is the case do a thorough virus scan....(using multiple anti-virus programs) Quote from: Broni on May 06, 2009, 07:22:24 PM

Video card can take much more heat, than CPU, so with 50-51C, you're perfectly fine.

...  a problem and do make sure your PSU ain't bad quality to add to the matter.

Would Like to know if a HD8650W CPU is good for this motherboard?

I guess my question is this the right cpu to be runing with this motherboard & how great is it..   From what I can see, yes it will run, but I'm not an AMD person, so someone who can tell you will hopefully come along soon I am running the Basic version of that Board and the HD8650W you have chosen will dun you very well.
I would suggest at minimum 2GB or 4GB of ram for that processor. Quote from: cengbrecht on May 06, 2009, 03:11:50 PM

I am running the Basic version of that Board and the HD8650W you have chosen will dun you very well.
I would suggest at minimum 2GB or 4GB of ram for that processor.

I’ve finally decided to build my own gaming tower not that I’ve managed to scrape together a little cash. I’ve read some guides online and I think I’ve got a grasp on this, my list right now:

Intel Core 2 Quad Q8200 Processor
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4089662&sku=CP1-DUO-Q8200

Gigabyte EP45-UD3L Motherboard
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4410103&sku=G452-0004

Patriot DUAL Channel 2048MB (4 of them)
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2967711&sku=P33-5010

Western Digital Caviar Green WD10EADS Hard Drive - 1TB
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4426054&sku=TSD-1000EADS

BFG GeForce 9600 GT OC Video Card - 512MB
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4390151&sku=B52-9607

NZXT ALP-001 Alpha ATX Mid-Tower Case
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3438627&sku=A406-1084

BFG GS-550 ATX POWER Supply - 550W
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4252534&sku=B52-3012

HP HPDVD1060i DVD Writer
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4291655&CatId=1624

Does all of this seem like it’ll work together and run games pretty well? I’m a college student so I can’t go too much higher in price but if there are any OBVIOUS needs or easy upgrades I’d love to hear them!Sofar you look alright.
Over some of your selections though

Power supply.
Personally if this is a Gaming Rig, and you are LOOKING to use that video card, I would suggest at least a 750w supply.

It may not be necessary but it is a good plan to have more power then you need incase you upgrade, or components heat up.

As for the specs, the ram is within the max for the board, though I think I should ask what OS (operating system) you are planning on Using?I'll take your advice on the power supply, i couldn't really find anything that gave an exact amount needed.

As for an operating system i was thinking vista, mostly since i have an extra copy of it so i wouldn't have to buy one.Sounds like a good Idea.
Another suggestion is to go to a website like www.memoryexpress.com and build a system on there the way you want then take the specs to something like Tiger Direct, as it has tools that help you get the right equipment for the parts you want.I'll take a look.

I posted this on another site too and i got a lot of suggestions to go to newegg.com, does anyone else have experiance with this site?It dont seem that you have a sound card.  Also I would get surrond sound speakers if you can makes it better and a second monitor setup.Can't go WRONG with newegg....
Fast shipping...great pricing....great Customer Support.I have bought 2 graphics card from newegg, I have bought memory from newegg, no problems whatsoever on newegg's end of things. Almost always, 3 days by UPS and I have my item. Only one problem with delayed delivery, but that was because UPS had a problem not NEWEGG!

my printer is upstairs with my wireless router how do i conect my lap top to my printer?
my printer is not wireless If your printer is connected to a computer upstairs, you can share it on that computer and to use it that computer needs to be online.
If there is no computer upstairs then you will NEED to either connect it to the router with a Ethernet CABLE or USB, then setup depends on your router.
It may need a IP address or the Router may handle it differently.

Can you give more info? Quote from: mohd on May 06, 2009, 03:18:16 AM

how can i connect my printer to my laptop

If there is no computer upstairs then you will need to either connect it to the router with a Ethernet cable or USB, then setup depends on your router.
It may need a IP address or the Router may handle it differently.

Mainboard :   Asus P5E
Chipset :   INTEL X38
Processor :   Intel Core 2 Duo E6750 2666 MHz
Physical Memory :   4096 MB (2 x 2048 DDR2-SDRAM )Corsair ddr2 800 mhz xms2-6400
Video Card :   NVIDIA GeForce 8600 GTS
Hard Disk :   ST3750330AS (750 GB)
OS: Windows Vista Ultimate

I want to install another four gb of RAM but the computer wont accept it and it shuts down. Its the same RAM exactly as installed now. Any suggestions
32-bit, or 64-bit Vista?Check your Motherboard specs, and see if the board can support it, some boards limit out at 4 GB or less even, most new boards can handle eight, but not always.It is 64 bit. I have read the manual that came with the motherboard and it says it will accept 8 gb
It wont even accept 6. I put the sticks in one at a time to try it and no luck.Have you tried to start the comp with just the new ram to see if it will work? What RAM ? ?
Same speed and specs that's in there now ? ?
Some ASUS boards need settings changed in the BIOS in order to max out the RAM.Yes the new RAM works when I take out the old. I set the bios to default, but am not sure how to change it if I had to, or what changes to MAKE. Yes the new RAM is exact same specs as the ones installed.4 x DIMM, max. 8GB, DDR2 1200 / 1066 / 800 / 667 MHz, non-ECC, un-buffered memory
Dual channel memory architecture
* DDR2 1200 is O.C. speed
* Refer to www.asus.com or this user manual for the Memory QVL(Qualified Vendors Lists).

So yeah U can take up to 8GB of ram, but are the sticks ALL the same speed?

Is your PSU grunty enough to handle the extra pull on the 1.5V?

Kurtiskain, when I bought the extra RAM it was the exact same specs as the RAM that was installed. When I removed the old RAM and installed the new, it worked. So this afternoon I tried one stick from the old and one from the new and it didn't work. So even though the specs on the RAM are identical, they aren't COMPATIBLE with each other. I phoned the company and they said to return all four, which I did and ordered a new set of four.
Corsair XMS2 DHX 8192MB PC6400 Memory - DDR2 800MHz Dual Channel (4x2048MB

Hopefully that should solve the problem. Thanks for your help everyone.

Hi, I'm moving two OLD hard drives from an Windows XP OS PC to a new PC with XP. Do I have to wipe the hard drives? What do I need to do?Well its always a good IDEA to wipe a drive when you install it into a new computer.
Though it is not necessary. ONE thing that is needed is, if it is IDE you will need to MAKE them slaves, and or PUT them on Cable select with a 80 pin IDE cable, otherwise Sata should auto Allocate them.

Anything else?Slave Drive Tutorial.

hey i dont know what is the acctual NAME of usb's pin no. 1 VCC.......so plz plz plz help me.....waiting for reply........Thanks Quote from: vyankteshshrivastava on May 04, 2009, 10:14:36 AM

..VCC...

What is the Vcc Pin?
The Vcc Pin is the CHIP's Power SUPPLY Pin. [030]

Not MUCH of a computer user. Can anyone help with this. The scroll on my screen keeps BOUNCING up and down on it own.

thanks

kmDo you have a cellphone near your screen or computer? my Friends compuer used to act wierd when he GOT a txt or sent a txt when his phone was by his computer, it would scroll his pages, change his current PLAYING song, and auto switch weapons in counter strike

I have a monitor that plugs into a docking port for my LAPTOP. This morning for some REASON the display is larger than the monitor. I have to take my cursor to the LEFT right bottom or top to scroll to display the whole screen. I assume I mistakenly changed some setting, but I didn't know how.Assuming this is XP;

Right click on an EMPTY space on your desktop, and select properties

On the settings tab, you can select and adjust the resolutions of both monitors, set them to the seting of your CHOICE, but both should be set to the same thing in the end.

hello, i am trying to install XP on an old laptop i got for free. it had xp running before, but i had to wipe the drive clean.  i believe malware was the problem with the comp not ever booting, but i wiped it clean and am trying to reinstall XP.  this is where the problem comes in.  My mouse pad is not working and i can not click agree on the license agreement.  i am able to click next and stuff, but at this license agreement part i can not click agree.

so if anyone knows the cause , and/or how to fix it post
OR
if you know how to check a box in the agreement using just the keyboard i might be able to sign in and try to download a driver for it. ( i think thats possible)

i have tried using a USB mouse and no luck.  any help is appreciated, thnx in advance! =) How did you erase the hard drive did you purge it?well first i used Killdisk, then i used recovery disk.He used the keyboard. At some point you have to point and click the mouse. But you can use the TAB and the ALT keys. You can select a radio button by tabbing the tab key until you see a change on the button and then hit the space bar. Or something like that. Or the ALt key and the cursor arrows.thanks a bunch Geek-9pm, i can PROCEED with the installation now, just a QUESTION tho. I do have do install a driver for it or something now right? or is the thing just busted?No, it is documented. Sorry, I forgot the link.

You can tap Alt-0Ctrl-Del to close a dialog that does not have a cancel.
Or close it with the ask manager. Also Alt f$ may work to close a box.
Hit the letter N for next. B for Back.
Alt-space will bring up a little menu. Anthe Windows logo key brings up Start, if available. The tab key cycles choices.  Esc somethings works. The space bar can select or unselect something. Arrow keys more up and down in selections.

The is a urban legend that Bill Gates does not use a mouse.

I just installed Windows XP with no mouse.
Had to use Alt-Ctrl-Del once to close a box.
If you are wondering about all the keyboard commands that the PREVIOUS person is suggesting:

Alt = a keyboard switch that utilizes alt to control buttons and VARIOUS menu functions.
N = when accompanied with Alt allows you to press or activate the Next button.
B = when accompanied with Alt allows you to press or activate the Back button.
Space bar = When used with Alt allows you to access the current windows Title box commands.
Tab = Used with alt; allows you to switch between many windows quickly. (Should display a little box showing pictures and text)
F4 = used with Alt; Closes the currently selected window.

Many other commands are available.Yes you will need to find a driver once you are in windows...you could get a cheap USB mouse to use in the mean time.

You will need the laptop brand and model if you want to find the correct driver The arrow keys will let you move around in windows setupOnce Windows is up and running for awhile, it will "discover" your mouse. After you learn to get along without it.

Got along without 'cha ...
before I meet  'cha ...
get along without 'cha now.
Thanks for that useless insite Mohd. What? Do you have a question?It's not unheard of that a pointer device or keyboard fails to work during XP setup. If it worked before formatting, it should be fine after Windows is installed again.Well either the OP cannot get back to the forum, or has FIXED it, he/she hasn't been back for a while

I have - according to System - an Intel (R) Celeron (R) 2.40GHZ, with 2 GB memory - actually showing as 1.96GB memory - hard drive 40, running Windows XP Home. Installed on the pc is a S3Graphics ProSavage DDR - I'm GUESSING it's part of the MOTHERBOARD? - which works for some of the games my children play and for others - like Robots - the screen is all pixellated and constantly freezes. As I seem to have enough memory I wonder if the graphics card is the problem. It's no longer supported so I can't update the drivers. Some of the graphic cards on the market seem quite expensive, so I'm wondering is it worthwhile to spend more money on this CPU by buying a new graphic card, or should I just say, 'Tough luck, kids, you'll need to wait until mom can afford a new CPU?'We need to know what make and model computer this is, in order to determine what type of video card would work in it.  If you already know what type expansion slots you have, please say what they are.

The price range on video cards is wide; at the low end, they are not expensive. The key to knowing what would be appropriate for your computer is the system requirements of games played on it.  I'm not familiar with Robots.  Do you know the software maker's system requirements for it? Likewise, for other games.OK, bear with me here because I'm a techie twit. The CPU says Q-tech on the front of it. In the users manual in the introduction it says Intel Pentium 4, Accelerated Graphics Port compliant with AGP 2.0 specification, Ultra ATA/66/100/133, chipset VIA P4M266A AGP SET: VIA P2M266A + VI8235, Built-in VIA ProSavage 8 Graphics core. Is this any help to you?
'Robots' - on the box it says (in extremely small print so apologies if something doesn't make sense) OS Windows 2000/XP, processor 1.0 GHz Intel Pentium III or AMD Athlon, Direct X9, Memory 512MB, Hard Drive 1.0 GB graphics card Nividia Ge-force or ATI Radeon 64MB or similarSorry, just noticed that further on in the manual it says 'the mainboard is equipped with an AGP slot. Make sure you install a card that supports the 1.5V.' And then further down it says 'the mainboard is equipped with 3 PCI slots.'Here's good deal: EVGA 256-A8-N401-LR GeForce 6200 256MB 64-bit GDDR2 AGP 4X/8X Video Card - Retail, especially if you take ADVANTAGE of the rebate.Whoah, that's a good deal! And this would be OK for my CPU?Yes, but note this:  Some video cards have a small fan attached to them.  This one does not.  So, a cooling fan inside your computer case would be good to move some air through case and provide some cooling to the video card.  Do you know whether your computer a "case" fan?  Again, this is not the fan on your processor or the fan inside your POWER supply box (the fan that blows warm air out near where your power cord connects).  This brief article might be helpful: http://www.coolcomputercases.com/how-to-fan.htmHmm, I think I just have a CPU fan. Again, from the Motherboard user's manual that I'm looking at, it looks like there's just a CPU fan because it TALKS about 'installing the cooling fan assembly.'on the motherboard layout picture it says JSYS FAN, and beside that JCPU  fan, but the last time I opened the case to install more memory it just looked like one largish fan to me, so instead of drilling holes in the case would there be another graphics card that comes with a fan?Are you sure there are no holes already drilled in front or back of your computer case for a fan?  Just one 80mm fan mounted at the back of the case would probably be sufficient. They can cost be quite inexpensive, such as http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835150007 Ah, I think I see what you mean. There's a grill type covering which covers the CPU fan thingy and then below that something that looks like a tea strainer? Roundish, almost three inches in size, silver, with holes in it? I'm sorry to be so dense, and to be taking up so much of your time. I'm afraid you got the village idiot Just had a look at the fan on the site you gave. So, if I buy this fan, and the card you recommended, I should be good to go? If so then I am very, very grateful for all your help, and so will be my kids! Quote from: BBSmallkid on May 06, 2009, 01:14:29 PM

Ah, I think I see what you mean. There's a grill type covering which covers the CPU fan thingy and then below that something that looks like a tea strainer? Roundish, almost three inches in size, silver, with holes in it?

Just had a look at the fan on the site you gave. So, if I buy this fan, and the card you recommended, I should be good to go? If so then I am very, very grateful for all your help, and so will be my kids!

Hi, I own a laptop and i use a 22" external monitor with it. However when i plug the monitor into windows it just sees it as a generic pnp monitor, this does not allow the monitors native resolution of 1680 X 1050, is there any way i can fix this problem
ThanksDownload the monitor driver from the manufacturer's website...Thankyou so much, this seems like an obvious solution now i THINK about it...
Once i had worked out how to assign the drivers to the monitor and MADE windows allow resolutions not compatible with the monitor i was FINE
 
Windows 7 LOOKS so much clearer now 
Thanks again !!!!!!!!!

i have a weird problem my CD DVD tray wont open. i opened manually and put a CD and it plays it and than the tray open and close normally but once i take the CD out it wont open. i update drivers and i don't KNOW what to do now.does it read the disk?your POINTLESS POST isnt needed.Hello, is this a laptop or DESKTOP. Is the drive external or internal?? Quote from: Mulreay on May 05, 2009, 11:27:37 AM

Hello, is this a laptop or desktop. Is the drive external or internal??

your pointless post isnt needed.

Hi Geeks!

Since few days, I have been observing "Weird" instances with my D-Link 502T Router!

After few minutes of surfing, its ADSL & ETHERNET Lights go OFF completely! On the contrary, POWER & STATUS lights continue as usual!

Now, could this be the result of "Overheating" or something else!?....I mean nonetheless "Ethernet" light shouldn't go off?! Mine used to do it all the time. The only thing you can do is turn off for 10secs and then back on. It's a bad connection to the server. Or to much TRAFFIC or some such things. I never found a solution so either grin and bare it or MAY be try a different router. The new d-link Wireless-N Quadband Home Router DIR-825. Is supposed to be the dogs dangly bits. It handles gaming and surfing seperately, it takes a little time to set up as do all d-links but apparently according to the gadget show pound for pound it's one of the best. Good luckA new router should fix the problem.
But FYI there are some 'worms' out there that attack routers with weak security.
Quote

The worm, called “psyb0t,” has been circulating since at least January this year, infecting vulnerable embedded Linux devices such as the Netcomm NB5 ADSL modem (above) and launching denial-of-service attacks on some Web sites.

A new router should fix the problem.
But FYI there are some 'worms' out there that attack routers with weak security.http://blogs.zdnet.com/security/?p=2972

D-links have top notch security with the wpak key enabled. That should'nt be a problem. But I get what your saying Geek

Hello!
I do hope I'm posting in the right forum.  Here is my question.  Pendrives are a storage device, correct?  Now we have to scan them as we should our normal HD, right? We save and if there is a virus or some malware hidding in the file, it won't execute, until you open that certain file or it's just there and infects all your other information on the pendrive? 
Wishing everyone who reads this, a lovely week.  Not sure what exactly you are asking....

Pendrives (or USB Keys, Flash Drives, Memory Sticks) are removable flash storage units. You can scan the flash drives if you want. It's not compulsory.


As for your malware question, what do you mean?
Depending on the virus, it could be an executable, hidden in another file, or set to autorun, just as any other virus would do on the internal HARD disk. Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on May 04, 2009, 05:38:46 AM

Not sure what exactly you are asking....

Pendrives (or USB Keys, Flash Drives, Memory Sticks) are removable flash storage units. You can scan the flash drives if you want. It's not compulsory.


As for your malware question, what do you mean?
Depending on the virus, it could be an executable, hidden in another file, or set to autorun, just as any other virus would do on the internal hard disk.

I have autorun completely disabled for everything.

I've always hated it. When I stick in one of my backup CDs, I don't want to be greeted by a prompt  "what do you want to do" when I've already pushed windows key-E and am accessing the drive.

let's see... where did I find that...

ahh, yes...

change:

HKEY_CURRENT_USER\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\policies\Explorer\NoDriveTypeAutorun, modify the value to "0xFF"

if you only want to disable certain kinds use one of these:

Value   Meaning
0x1         Disables AutoPlay on drives of unknown type
0x4         Disables AutoPlay on removable drives
0x8         Disables AutoPlay on fixed drives
0x10      Disables AutoPlay on network drives
0x20      Disables AutoPlay on CD-ROM drives
0x40      Disables AutoPlay on RAM disks
0x80      Disables AutoPlay on drives of unknown type
0xFF      Disables AutoPlay on all kinds of drives

Hi guys I just moved into an apartment and my microwave TAKES up almost all my couter space since it's just a studio apartment i'm wondering if I can put the microwave about 2 1/2 3 feet away from my computer safelybrett74, Microwaves that are operating properly (proper seals  etc) should not be emitting nasties that should affect your computer.HOWEVER there is a problem you WILL have.If you are using a wireless internet connection any time your microwave is on you will more than likely lose your internet connection. Also of concern is if you share the same outlet(same electrical circuit) with the microwave a problem could arise. Microwaves are notorious high voltage users when running and this could cause a severe drop in power available to the computer and cause bad issues. If you can i would try to relocate the computer to another area of your room.truenorthThanks for the reply the microwave would be plugged into an outlet in the kitchen and my computer is plugged into an outlet in the living room and I don't use my microwave alot anyways just once in awhile. The only time I would use my wireless if I use my laptop and I don't use that MUCH either. Thanks for telling me cause I was worried that I would ruin my computer from the microwave it shouldnt be affectin, unless the microwave's shield is broken or not WORKING. Standing in front of the microwave when its running will give you night vision.correction about the distance I would say that it's about 6 to 8 inches from the computer I wouldn't do it...i'd look for alternative setups myself.The only places on a microwave that cannot be fully sheilded are the very front window, which only lets out a microscopic 1-3%, nothing to worry about unless its facing your computer.

Other then that, the computer should be fine unless the Microwave takes too much wattage, in which case it may interrupt power on your computer if they happen to run to the same fuse in the Fuse panel. My problem with the Microwave is that it can ruin  my morning coffee. If somebody turns on the Micro before Mr coffee is done, the fuse pops and I have badly brewed java. At the FIRST taste I spill it on the keyboard and everything is downhill from there.
lol


just try to hide everything one might microwave while Mr.Coffee is working. 

Although I imagine that's a collosal task. You could unplug Mr.Microwave till Mr. Coffee is done? Quote from: cengbrecht on May 06, 2009, 01:44:34 AM

You could unplug Mr.Microwave till Mr. Coffee is done?

You could unplug Mr.Microwave till Mr. Coffee is done?

Hi, I've got a really weird problem with a serail com port device.

First off I know that the actual device, 20 col line display for point of sale machines, is working. I have 2 windows XP machines, one has 1 serial port the other has 4.

1. I plug the serial device into MACHINE 1, and immediately the device screen shows some version info showing that it works.
2. I plug the serial device into Machine 2, and nothing happens.

I run the following DOS commands on both machines

mode com1:96,n,8,1
echo test>com1

1. On machine 1, the text "test" is displayed on the device
2. On machine 2, nothing is displayed.

I check the device settings in System->Device manager->Com1 on both machines and made sure they're both exactly the same, and still doesn't work.

I'm completely stumped. I have a printer that connects to the serial port that works on both machines, but my line display device only works on 1 of them.

Does anyone have any idea why or some config that I may have overlooked ?
Thanks.Trying to test serial devices without the proper tools is a real pain.
Standards for the RS-232 interface have be altered over the years.
In addition to that, how a device responds can be unprofitable if the handshake lines and not used PROPERLY.

I am not joking with you. I used to work as a advanced technician many years ago. Serial ports were horrible back then. It is SUPPOSED to be better now!
If you do not want to spend a lot of time on this, you can get a gadget that resolves serial interface problems with older equipment.

But wait. If all the STUFF is new, get back to your supplier and throw the problem on him. New equipment should not do this at all.

Try your device on as many PCs as you can. If you get mixed results, the cable is not wired properly for the device. Or the device does not conform to current standards.

Here is a tutorial.
http://www.arcelect.com/rs232.htm

I hope this is of some help. Let us know which direction you go with this.

EDIT: A quick fix maybe to just use a USB to RS232 adapter.




Are you using the same data cable with each of the computers?Yes the data cable is the same.
Also want to say that the behaviour is consistent.

Machine 1 works.
Machine 2 doesn't work.

Though I know that Machine 2 has more windows service packs and updates installed, don't know if this makes a difference. But it works on one and not the other. Quote from: Geek-9pm on May 04, 2009, 12:25:14 AM

EDIT: A quick fix maybe to just use a USB to RS232 adapter.

The machine with the 4 serial ports works.
The one with 1 serial port does not.
I also want to make it clear that the serial port on on the machine with 1, works because I tested a printer on it. When I hook up my Line Display device it doesn't. The line display device only seems to work on my second machine (the one with 4 ports only)

What are the Pro's and Con's when getting a SSD?Really!
Is this a plug fro a new product?

PRO: Loading Windows in 0.5 second!
CON: Not on you Social Security benefit!

So you SAY this video?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96dWOEa4Djs
Solid State drives have a MUCH much faster read speed than Hard Drives, but a much slower write speed.
I cannot confirm, but power consumption between HDD and SSDs are similar.
Data recovery with SSD is virtually impossible.
You get more storage for what you PAY with Hard drives, whereas you pay more for less storage space with SSDs.
SSDs are more resilient to impacts and drops COMPARED to hard drives, but I've dropped my external HD plenty of times. Still works perfectly.$$$'s are the difference right now...i'd wait awhile.
Plus the fact that if you can see the diifference between read/write speeds on EITHER than you can justify spending the money.
The other drawback is the capacity...1TB SATA Seagate drive = $100 Bucks...
1TB SSD drive = still a pipe dream.Another small drawback to SSD is that currently on windows xp and Vista you have to manually optimize them for the SSD otherwise you will get allot of slowdowns during work due to how SSD drives work. eg, erasing then having to write when using the drive.
Windows does a lot of write operations during normal use so it can slow down, though it is not actually freezing, it will seem like it.

So eventually, my speakers will make a funny sound like they're being disconnected on and off continuously. I fear it's possible my sound CARD is overloading?Possible...How are the speakers connected?

Powered from the wall or USB or from the card itself (some OLDER HP computers used these cards)

What program are you using?

Is it only when you move the mouse or type?With a green headphone connection

From the wall

Program? Uh...while it happens? Right now it's IE, Firefox, Sony Sound Forge, and Windows Media Player.

The mouse may have moved by itself. But the sound SEEMS to come on when I do nothing =/ just leave it on and it does itCheck for problems in device manager, disable the sound card and reboot. Windows will reinstall them and maybe things are back to normal.Could there be other electronic appliances interfering? I know cell phones can cause weird sounds and noises on speakers, even when they're off. I guess it has to do with EMF. Quote from: Karnac on April 29, 2009, 05:04:03 PM

Check for problems in device manager, disable the sound card and reboot. Windows will reinstall them and maybe things are back to normal.

Check for problems in device manager, UNINSTALL the sound card and reboot. Windows will reinstall them and maybe things are back to normal.

So eventually, my speakers will make a funny sound like they're being disconnected on and off continuously. I fear it's possible my sound card is overloading?

I have a similar problem with my current speakers.
What I have found, and I learned this from a friend who is computer illiterate...
Sometimes your power cord going to your speakers is either dirty or damaged in some manner and you get the exact same problems.

Try checking or moving the power cord.
If it makes the sounds that you are hearing normally, then you have your culprit.
Otherwise, feel free to try the methods they have suggested above.

I just bought a NEW computer and it restarts sometimes when i open big applications LIKE movies or games. I have no idea whats the root of the problem can ANYONE help me out?

I ran Core Temp 0.99.2 and the readings are 44 degrees C for both cores . I have 3 working fans in my computer . I dont get a blue screen when the pc restarts.

Please help , THANK you

We need some specifications on it, but its most likely your RAM. Quote from: joevh09 on December 04, 2008, 11:18:03 AM

We need some specifications on it, but its most likely your RAM.

just built a NEW computer it turns on but screen says no signal. there is no onboard VIDEO so i have an ati pcie 2.0 graphics card no software is installed including an os so i CANT download any drivers You are DOUBLE posting refer to your original post

i know the monitor is capable of displaying red because it does it whenever i disconnected the vga cables

Quote

i know the monitor is capable of displaying red because it does it whenever i disconnected the vga cables

...and connect what?

the other day, when i tried to turn on the pc, it didn't detect the HDD.
but after tweaking the BIOS, it finally detected the drive, but didn't boot, and i got the usual DISK BOOT FAILURE message.
i had 2 partitions, C & D.
very very important data was in D, and some in C. C was my boot drive. my hard disk is Segate, IDE.
nothing happened when i tried to use a recovery prog.
and when i tried to install OS again, it showed only 5gb of hard disk, while mine was 40gb.
i REMEMBER, around 5 gb was all the free space i had left before the crash.
now i've installed OS in those 5 GB, but i haven't formatted the other 35 gb, mainly because i need the data in it, and also because i just can't access it!
please anyone, i need that data, please help.
is there any recovery software for segate that can help me recover corrupted data?
i've tried everything available to me, segate disk manager is crap, it's no use.
i've tries every way i can to FORMAT the hard disk and obtain the 40 gb of free space, byt it still detects only 5 gb, what the *censored* is going on?
i badly need the data.... help guysremove disk and place on another system as slave disk,

find/use some of the free recovery software and see what you can salvage...

good luckPossibly too - if you have or can use an external drive enclosure for it, hook it up by USB to another puter - then try and access your data and burn to DVD etc.

Sounds like the drive is possibly getting terminal - treat it gently and, hope you can retrieve what you need.i don't know guys, does changing the IDE cable make any difference?
i changed the cable the day before it crashed.
but, when i changed the cable, the PC did boot ond worked fine the first time...
i do that sort of thing very often, been doing that for years, and never had a serious problem.
i take my hard disk as crashed, but how am i able to access 5 Gb of space on a crashed HDD?
i was told by engineers, nevertheless, that a crashed HDD dosen't even get detected, forget being able to boot from one!
ANY IDEAS?
a did connect the hrive to another PC, it detected only 5 Gigs.Have you hooked it up as  a slave yet on a working machine to see what data is left ? ?
I don't understand the changing cables part...what exactly does this mean ? ? Quote from: patio on November 28, 2008, 08:34:53 AM

Have you hooked it up as  a slave yet on a working machine to see what data is left ? ?
I don't understand the changing cables part...what exactly does this mean ? ?

Hello all, I am very new and in alot of trouble here... HELP!!! I had a nasty Virus (GoGoogle) which I cleared up. By downloading a few scanners. Everything was fine until yesterday, I got the bright idea of running a junkfile program that cleans up junkfiles and defrags the HARD drive. Well now I get "Cannot print Spooler is not on or working" I have gone through all the info I could find on the internet and could not get any info. The deal is the spool is actually on on all the computers in question, so when I tell it to start nothing happens. I can print off the MAIN computer but not the laptops we have.

My wife has to have a printer for her job and is extremly mad at me right now. I have tried system restore and that always fails. I do not have a XP disk as the computer was given to me a few years AGO and all the laptops had it already installed. Sorry if I type frantically... well I am frantic!! BTW, the Spool exe file is still intact. Thanks for any info!!Sorry forgot to put in what I am running. I have 3 comps. one is an emachines AMD 2700+ (old main computer), the other 2 are compaq laptops. All three are running Windows XP. Not sure what service packs though.have you removed/deleted the printer and re-boot, then setup printer again from scratch
to see if it cures your issue???

Good LuckNo, I have not. I will try that. However, I actually have 2 printers to choose from (HP 832c deskjet and the HP Photosmart C5180) and neither one can print. I keep GETTING errors. I can't EVEN set the properties.

i just built a really nice computer, it turns on but the monitor has "no signal". computer has no onboard video and the only thing that does is a PCIE 2.0 ati video card. i cant install windows or drivers if i cant see anything PLS helpI would do a out of CASE trouble shoot: Use 1 stick of MEMORY, video card hooked up to monitor, cpu with heat sink & fan, [only use these]. Make sure you have good connections. If you want you can do this in the case but i always do this before going any further only as a test.make sure your v card is seated into its SLOT. Forgot: use the keyboard & mouse hook up

Hey guys not sure whether this belongs in the software or here but any who,

I have a 80 GB IDE drive I use for my 'storage drive' I.E for all my old stuff I no longer need on hand that fast.

Problem is It has been rather SLUGGISH and I have wanted to defragment it only to find there was well over 90% red on the analysis! :O

So I 'defragged' it twice, each time it getting to a point where it could not defrag any more, and so far it does not seem to be getting any better the more I try... I will post a screen shot just to show how bad it is and I would like some SUGGESTIONS on how to make this better

Kurtis

P.S most of the reason it seems so empty now is i backed up alot of stuff to DVD so it would have more room to work, but it only seemed to create more lines

[Saving space - attachment deleted by admin]Try running defrag from the COMMAND Prompt using the -F switch to force a defrag if disk space is low.

If your system disk/partition (C:) is also badly defragmented you're heading for bigger troubles.

Good luck.I dont think it's that disk space is low...(if you look drive g: (storage) has 49% free...)

i'll try the DOS version though

jut as soon  as i find out what the command is

KurtisWhere the heck have you been ? ? ?
 

You may want to run chkdsk /r on it first.Windows needs at least 15% of a free space to operate properly. You have 12%.Ouch, that's a pretty  fragmented drive. The windows defragger needs to run many passses to defrag such a drive, and even then it may not  succeed, especially if the system files are fragmented (it cant defrag the mft and page file). Just grab the free 30 day trial version of Diskeeper 2009 from their website, install it and leave it on automatic defrag, or run it manually. DK should easily be able to defrag that drive regardless of what types of files are fragmented, or the % free space. I use the older 2008 version, and it's awesome. V.2009 ought to be even better I think.I would just save everything that i wanted to save from that drive and then format it. Quote from: Kurtiskain on December 03, 2008, 01:40:10 AM

I dont think it's that disk space is low...(if you look drive g: (storage) has 49% free...)

Hello, my pc does not boot up except the orange loading light. The CD drives and the fans are RUNNING. There seems to be 2 clicks a few seconds after loading. My PC is a Compaq Presario. I can't give all the details on the specs because i cant remeber them by heart. It has been acting liek this for a while, but I was able to boot it up by holding down the power and click again over and over. I need a QUICK response because this is a friend's PC and I dont want to wait for the next day.Do you have on board video or a video card?If you have a video card i would start there .
Do you hear any beeps upon turning on the computer?REBEL,
As you can see we weren't quick enough...he has not returned.

Quote

I need a quick response because this is a friend's PC and I dont want to wait for the next day.

Well, the test finished significantly faster than I had anticipated.
The results came back with no errors.

Perhaps Memtest86 from: http://www.memtest86.com/ is not compatible with duel core processors, or at least not my specific processor.

Here is a quote from the homepage:

Quote

Listed below are a few of the planned projects.

    * Support for memory testing using multiple CPUs. Code is needed to detect, select, park and start CPUs. In addition new methods need to be created for effective memory testing using multiple CPUs.

i recently loaded windows 2000 on a new drive in a Gateway computer, everything works fine except for the sound. i have tried a SOUNDBLASTER live CARD and a diamond Xtreme 7.1/24 bit sound card and neither will give me sound. the device manager says they are WORKING with no conflicts. any sugestions? GO to control panel [sound & audio] & adjust settings. see if this will solvePBLM?still no soundSpeakers or settings of SPEAKERS? Have you tried other speakers?have you also made sure there is no on board sound and the default playback device is set to the onboard?

KurtisDid you install sound card driver?

brilliant, thanks very much for the quick reply. However, do you give me a bit more help on what to actually buy, i.e the names to search for on ebay. Ive found a few things that look similar to in the picture, but im not sure exactly what to buy...

cool that looks perfect, although do you know if there is a cable included that can power the harddrive?

I've recently clenched a 32" samsung 720P HDTV(3 series w/ integrated speakers) from my local Fry's and I HAPPENED to grab a 9800gtx+ with an HDMI adapter as well. The television's NATIVE resolution is 1366 x 768 however, after installing all of the latest drivers setting the native resolution has become literally impossible. the hdmi cable is a male to male and the video card has an hdmi adapter to go on TOP of either of its two DVI slots. I can only set the screen resolution to 800 x 600, 1024 x 768, 1280 x 720, 1600 x 900, and 1920 x 1080 (each of them gives me a blurry and extremely unstatisfying picture). I find this very intriguing because if i just set up the standard dvi cable, i can set up the native resolution easily. PLEASE help me get to the bottom of this, anybody.
Sounds like the PNP feature is not recognizing your display with that adapter, but PnP is working for direct DVI ( PnP = Plug n Play ) just in case you didnt know.

I'd contact the video card MFR support to see if they can provide you with a way to manually override the systems PnP feature to customize it to the correct native res for the HDMI setup with HDMI to DVI

Hey all.

I asked about this a while ago, but we finally managed to throw out my old PC, and in the process, we removed the magnetic tape section (I hope it's the hard-drive!) to keep. I've got some nice files on this tape that I havent been able to access for ages, and even though it's only 10gb, if possible, it'd make a nice addition to my current PC to add extra storage space. I wondered whether anyone knew how I could go about attatching a second hard-drive? I could get into the CPU and fiddle around if I need to, but a simple way of doing it would be great. I know you can get things like external harddrives, is there any easy way of getting an external harddrive hub to stick the tape in so that it goes through a USB port etc?

Thanks!Your post is unclear.  What do you mean by "magnetic tape section"?  Is it from a tape drive?

ALAN <><  Okay, yah, just the Hard Drive I used to study Computing and for some reason I randomly pick words that I can remember to explain things which probably aren't even related!

Edit: Ahh right, I MEANT Magnetic Disk.you didn't physically remove the magnetic PLATTERS, did you?

Otherwise you should just refer to it as a hard drive.

if it's from an old computer- it's probably IDE.

You'll need to confirm that you have a free IDE connector within your computer- most likely, you do.Oh noo, haven't touched it aside from taking it out of the CPU. I'll check about the IDE Connector thing.If it is in fact a hard drive and it's IDE  Clik Here...Oh wow, thanks patio - that's the perfect explanation. I'm gonna have a go at it sometime tomorrow I guess. (I also have to get the vaccuum out to remove the piles of dust from within my CPU, urgh).Please DO NOT use a vaccuum ! !
The amount of static produced can literally fry expensive components.

Get a can of compressed air instead...available at any PC /electronics store
When blowing fans hold them gently in place with a QTip.
As always when working inside the case remove all power sources and take anti-static precautions.Thanks for the warning patio, i'd hate to have fried my PC. Dust is all gone now. I tried sticking my harddrive in last night, but it seems to be very clustered in my CPU tower, so I probably need to get an extra power connector splitting thing so that it reaches the harddrive i'm putting in. I've had a look at a few on AMAZON, but there seem to be alot of power connector splitters (If i'm making no sense with that terminology; this is what I mean - http://www.bestcableforless.com/prodimages/CC2126Y_LR.jpg) - is there any specific type I should get, or is any OK?The one you linked to is for floppy drives...Click Here  for a picture of what you need.
These will be available at any PC store in your area...

I am looking for a starter computer for my kid. Something like a BAREBONES kit from tiger would be good. I don't need much of a MACHINE. Low end P4 would be good.

Anyone have a good PLACE to GET one cheap?

Thanks
If you meant tigerdirect.com, that seems like a good place to get a barebones kit.  I could be wrong but I doubt you find BETTER pricing elsewhere.another place you could look at is www.newegg.com their prices are unbeatable

I'm using Windows 2000 Professional to run a Canon printer, model LBP-800.  It was working fine and then today it stopped printing and I keep getting the following message "Data TRANSFER to the printer was too late or a data transfer error occurred".  What does that mean?  I've already reinstalled the software and driver, and the only difference is that I get a wide black band at the top of my paper.  Only guessing but - sounds like possibly a printer fault, in itself.  Is it old or new?

Only other thing to check is connections -- is this USB or parallel port?It's 8 years old and uses a parallel port.  Hmmm - makes me think even more it could be a terminal FAILURE of the printer itself tho hate to say it.  I and my wife have ''been thru" quite a few printers and this seems in that category of problem.

If connections all secure when checked then I am out of useful suggestions .. sorry.  New printer time I fear is a possibility unless anyone else has ideas.Could there be a fault with the cable or the thingy where it PLUGS into the COMPUTER?That's why I mentioned cables - just in case there could be any connection problem.

However, your problem seems to have been rather sudden onset and so unless connectors had been moved AROUND it's unlikely to be that, plus parallel connectors have either screw or clip locks making it unlikely they'd loosen.

Just detach cable connectors at each end and reinsert just to be sure.  That's a long shot - and somehow doubt it is that unfortunately.I've been kind of wanting a new printer anyway, so I don't think I'll cry about it.  Thank you for your help

i had a gigabite motherboard and it shorted out.
soooo i got another one i dont know what kind it is but it was ran with and amd 3200 the same cpu i used. i installed the motherboard and EVERYTHING else.. i turned on the computer and the fans run but it just stays at a black screen. i put in the BIOS cd and nonthing loads whats going on?/ Quote from: chris2931 on November 24, 2008, 02:13:38 AM

 i dont know what kind it is

Hi there. 

OK.  I format a dvd, erase everything.  I go to my computer to make sure that it has erased.  I right click on the drive then click properties.  The indicator is blue, suggesting that there is still stuff on the disc, but it says there are no BYTES on there.  It should be turning pink, indicating free space right?  Only started happening recently.  The only change I've made to my system is installing Jetbee, a freeware DVD burner.  Could this cause the issue?

Anyone KNOW why this is happening and how I can fix it?

Cheers, GUYS. 

Feenixthis would indicate the disk is truely formatted - but not how you expect, but in RAW.

As windows does not natively read RAW (infact I dont know if anything does) It sees at as completely empty.

You should be ABLE to now write to the disk again (im assuming this is a DVD+/-RW?

Kurtis

I was browsing the internet when all of a sudden my mouse stopped moving.  I tried clicking buttons, etc. to get it going again.  It did, for about 3 seconds then my screen went black.  A blue screen came up and then was gone and my computer restarted.  Now, it doesn't get to the windows LOADING screen even.  All it does is it goes through the loading of hardware and then gets to another page where it says it is

"Verifying DMI Pool Data...."

"A Disk Read error occured
Press ctrl+alt+del to restart"

The verifying DMI pool data has always showed up but is USUALLY followed by success.  Now I have tried booting from the XP CD i have and doing recovery.  I get through the blue screen that says "Press R to launch recovery" I press 'R' it examines the disk configuration then goes to a black screen that says

"Microsoft Windows XP Recovery Console.
The recovery console provide system repair and recovery functionality
Type exit to quit the recovery console and restart the computer"

C:\>

i type HELP and it gives the list of commands and the only one I really recognize from my computer class that I think might help is CHKDSK.  So i type that in and it says

"The Volume appears to contain one or more unrecoverable problems"

Anyone know what the heck happened?  If you must know what I did with my computer I turned it on and logged in to check my email on yahoo; that's it.


Any ideas?appears as if the disk may have got hosed....if you can, REMOVE the disk and take to another system, install as a slave disk, and if it is seen run chkdsk /r on it...if it isn't seen on the other system...then...good luck..
You can also try running Hard disk diagnostics from your drive manufacturer to verify if your drive is DEFECTIVE.....