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Hello, i searched but couldn't FIND the answer to my question so im going to ask it now  .
What happens when you put a lower psu than what you NEED, i have 2 power supplies a 250v and 185v (i know they are old)
but i just want to see if the 185v can support my computer. Im pretty sure i dont use up all the 250v i only have a mATX board with a AMD XP 2800 1 dvd drive ,hard drive and a floppy disk......any help would be appreciatedPut your PCs' specs in the calculator and see what you can get by with.....

http://educations.newegg.com/tool/psucalc/index.html


i didn't know they had that to bad they dont have my PROCESSOR....thx anywaysAnd I hope you mean watts because I think if your on a 120v circuit thing then something bad might happen.... The same if your on a 220V circuit thing.  Try this one
http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jspIf its an older machine it should be okay at least a 300 watt would be okay.  It just wont really run right other wise. Quote from: eframan on June 17, 2009, 12:29:27 PM

Hello, i searched but couldn't find the answer to my question so im going to ask it now  .
What happens when you put a lower psu than what you need, i have 2 power supplies a 250v and 185v (i know they are old)

Could SOMEBODY please help me burn divX movies to include the subtitles. I usually burn these divX movies with Nero 7 thru data dvd but when I check it on my dvd player, the subtitle is not there and it says no subtitle recorded. Can somebody help please. I usually download .srt subtitle at subscene website. Thanks a lot.I use ConvertXtoDvd.To Broni:
Thanks for your reply. I have used this convertX to DVD before to CONVERT divX to standard dvd. However, what I really NEED is to burn my divX movies in the same format, also divX, which should include the subtitle. I want to burn 4 or 5 divX movies (with subtitle) in one BLANK dvd. Any suggestion? Thanks.I may be WRONG, but I don't think, it's possible.
With regular video format, like .avi, subtitles come as a text file (srt, sub), which can be easily burned into the movie during conversion process.
.divx is a compressed format, and subtitles (xsub) are not text, but binary (bitmap) type of file, embedded in .divx containers.

The Laptop (XP) has been tested and determined that the power adapter is defective and must be replaced. The defective ONE is a PA-12, 65 watt. I have been OFFERED a PA-6 or PA-15 at no COST. How can I find out if either one of these will WORK? Dell just SAID I had to buy a replacement through them.

I have VC Nvidia Geforce2 mix/mix400 with S-VIDEO  .

If i connected the dricttv receiver s-video  to my pc with the S-Video CABLE , would i get to watch the tv on my pc?? Or what is the S-Video  in my video card for??

I m running winxp To watch TV on your computer, you need TV tuner card. They come in two flavors: internal card, or USB device.
You use REGULAR TV cable to connect DTV to the TV tuner card.I found Tv tuner card for $20 , Hope it will do the job. I still wonder what is the s-video port on the video card good for ?
I't got to be  use for it !

You can use S-video to play VIDEOS from your computer on TV.
You must make separate for sound, THOUGH.

I have 10 hard drives on my computer. 4 internal and 6 external (USB2). I noticed lately that one of the External ones (Seagate FreeAgentDesktop 1000) has a VERY low write speed when copting files to it.

I did a test with HD Tune Pro and low and behold, all of my other HDDs have a write speed of 25MB\s and the problematic one has a write speed of 5MB\s.

I did many kinds of tests on the drive but every one SAYS that the drive is healthy. Not overheated, not fragmented, nothing.

I GOOGLED this issue and can't find any solution for this PROBLEM. Any ideas?

Thanks.Have you tried another USB port to eliminate the port as the source of the slowdown?
Yes I have tried all USB ports on my computer and other computers. Also, it's set to use DMA in case someone asks.Have you eliminated the cable from the drive to the port as a cause.....You might want to have a look at this website......there may be something for you .... especially the paragraph where DMA switches to PIO and a slowdown occurs.

http://winhlp.com/node/10Actually, that I have not tried yet (cable\wire) . The drive is in use so I will try it later.

About DMA, it is not reverted to PIO as I mentioned in my post. It is set to DMA.After trying the cable if it's still slow i would DLoad and run the SEATOOLS diagnostics on it...
You didn't happen to install the Free AGENT software on it did you ? ?I tried the Seagate tool. All came out healthy. I just couldn't do a write test because it can't have a partition on it to do a write test and I would have to format to do that. But anyway, I already did a write test with HD Tune so I know the problem exists.

I don't use the Free Agent software but installed it because it has a diagnose tool as well. Since it's an external why not try and run the tests on another PC ? ?
It may be the machine's fault though i doubt it.I did that already but thanks.

I got my new reciver today and its a yamaha rx363 and when listening to the radio I can hear both speakers and sub.  But when I connect it to my computer I can only hear one speaker and sub.  I tried messing with all the sound SETTINGS but its not helping.  Any ideas?What kind of wiring are you using to connect your computer to this receiver? Also, what sound CARD do you have in your computer?I am using a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable and I am using onboard from a gigabyte motherboardOk, going to go through a number of things here.

First, check your sound settings that the output is stereo and that it's going into the stereo input on your receiver. It's possible that one or the other is expecting surround and that you're getting the center/sub channel.

I'm guessing you have, but have you checked that both ends are securing INSERTED? Not being in properly will sometimes result in only one side getting sound.

Also try rotating the PLUG while it's in, sometimes they don't make good contact, resulting in the same thing.

If neither of those seem to be an issue, try the cable with something else (an MP3 player, portable CD player, anything with a 3.5mm output). Make sure the wire isn't broken/faulty.

Are both ends of it stereo plugs or is one/both mono? (see pictures) Not to call you stupid or anything, but I'll explain in case you don't know. Stereo JACKS have 3 sections separated by two small rings, while a mono jack has two sections with one small ring. Using the wrong one can result in loss.

[attachment deleted by admin]Of course..... Its a mono cable Quote from: computeruler on June 17, 2009, 12:03:26 AM

Of course..... Its a mono cable

The operating system CD of my gateway computer won't start and I want to make a full recovery procedure. Plz Help.if your cd/dvd drive is not broken .... then you might just try cleaning your disc and try booting to it.

Quote

Use a drop of dish detergent and lots of clean WATER. Do not RUB. Never rub or wipe in a CIRCLE. If you must stroke the disc do it with a SOFT cotton cloth (or something that's no rough or abrasive) in a straight line from the center outwards (radially). Rinse the disc in running clear water, shake off most remaining drops, and lightly pat dry with a soft, clean cloth.

I have a laptop (not suitable for games) but in my house there's this 5-ish year old desktop which i want to convert into a gaming rig.

The desktop is a Dell Dimension 8400-> http://reviews.cnet.co.uk/desktops/0,39029979,39188932,00.htm

What are the steps required to do improve it and what hardware would you recommend??

Thanks for helping this newbie.For most gaming upgrades, you usually want to upgrade the RAM, and Graphics Card.

I'm not an expert at the gaming upgrades, but seems to be that your Processor is fine(3 GHz).

Add about another stick of RAM(2GB Stick). And get a GFX card that has atleast 128MB of VRAMYou'll have trouble upgrading a Dell's graphics card due to the power supply.
What sort of games are you looking to play, and what's your budget?He may also need to get another power Molex SPLITTER if he needs a DVD drive for some newer gamesMy budget is around $300 but can be adjusted up or HOPEFULLY down.

and the games i would play would be mostly in the first person shooter genre, specifically games like call of duty and mass effect.

ThanksI'm finding conflicting information about your power supply options.
Some information suggests it's just STANDARD ATX and can be REPLACED with any normal PSU ... some says a normal PSU won't fit in the case ... some say there are some weird connectors that aren't on a standard PSU, which may or may not be needed.
The most COMPATIBLE option would be a Dell-compatible unit from PC Power & Cooling, but that's very expensive for what it is.
I'll keep looking.

a hardware conflict.

Having a problem when i inset a disk e.g. COMMAND and conquer or music or any program DISKS, what happens is that it will make the whirring noise as if it LOADING but NOTHING APPEARS! does anyone have any idea as to why this happened??

MANY thanksUsually it a sign that the drive is starting to go bad.  Possibly that it may have from what you said.  Replacements are rather cheap.

Hello Good to all...

I need your help...When I PRINT THER's a message APPEAR."Ink absorber is full". this is Canon pixma ip1300.

How to fix it.?

thanks in advance;
Have a look here...

http://ezinearticles.com/?Canon-Ink-Absorber---How-To-Clean-It&id=880842Thanks Sir KARNAC ...

next TYM again

My D: drive will not recognise a cd which I got from college, I got a replacement but it's the same, I brought my computer from the UK to New Zealand are the CD's compatible?  Other cds from home are fine.  I have windows XP computer is Elonex Extentia Media Centre.If it's CD, not DVD, it shouldn't be a PROBLEM. Did you try CD in question on another computer?If it is a CD, check what TYPE CD it is. CD-ROM should be no problem but if it is a CD-R or CD-RW it could be a problem.  I have made CD on one CD-RW drive and then when I upgrade to a new drive the disk would no longer be recognized.

DVD-ROM are regionalized so with a factory set DVD you could have a problem. The UK is region 2 where as New Zealand is region 4. The same can be true with DVD-R or DVD-RW as with CD-R and CD-RW disk. My DVD-R unit I have connected to my TV will not play DVD+R ot DVD+RW disk.

Check if the disk will play on someone else computer. If is does, I would check the specifications on your drive. If it came with your computer check with the factory site for more information or goto Start/All Programs/Accessaries/System Tools/System Information and click on components then CD-ROM and you should FIND the manufacturer make and model number listed there.


Quote

CD-ROM should be no problem but if it is a CD-R or CD-RW it could be a problem

Come again?

CD mastering differs from burning, as the pits and lands of a mastered CD are moulded into a CD blank, rather than being 'burn marks' in a dye layer (in CD-Rs) or areas with changed PHYSICAL characteristics (in CD-RWs). In addition, CD burners write data sequentially, while a CD pressing plant 'writes' the entire disk in one physical STAMPING operation.

Ok my computer was running fine but suddenly started to shut down when playing a demanding game with graphics set high. After cleaning the fan and heatsink area on the graphics card and elliminating large amounts of dust and turing the graphics down slightly this problem was fixed until . . .

I moved my pc back home from uni and set it up. Now after varying amounts of time my pc just cuts out and turns itself off completely!! It has happened from anywhere from 3 minutes of being on to up to 30 mins, but never has been able to stay on for LONGER. Why could this be happening suddenly as it has been running stable for so long? It occurs on both windows vista and xp.

Any help would be very much appreciated,

Jonny

Spec:
Dual Booting Vista Ultimate and Windows XP
AMD Athlon 3800+
2GB DDR Ram
ATI X1950XT
Nforce 4 Motherboard
2 IDE Hard drives.
Jonny, Welcome to CH

The fact you moved the computer leads me to believe that the heatsink may have moved and is not flush with the motherboard.

You might want to D/L Speedfan to check your temperatures.....when you cleaned your heatsink did you REAPPLY thermal paste.

If no luck then a swap for a known good power supply is another option....the supply could be on the way out, but the temps need to be checked first.Also try to blow a fan on it and see if that helps anyHey thanks for the quick replies. I cleaned the heatsink and the CHIP on both the graphics card and the CPU and reapplied thermal paste to both of them today. The computer was running great for about an hour and a half (leading me to think the problem was fixed) but it then just cut out once again! 

Could the power supply REALLY be on the way out? Is that the most PROBABLE reason for the malfuncion now?

I will try to check temperature of the CPU later by the way, to let you know what it is.

Thanks

JonnyFirst check the temps and post them here.  If they are ok then its probably the powersupplyOk i installed speedfan and this screenshot should give all the temperatures needed. This was recorded on my xp partition at idle. The temps would probably be much higher when on vista.

[attachment deleted by admin]Well, the temps don't look bad......reseat your memory, check all connections, and then try swap the power supply....your 12V is running at 5.82V.Yeah i didn't think they looked like much to worry about! I resat the memory today and have been forever checking connections since this started happening about 4 days ago now. Looks like i'll have to buy a new power supply! :-( I was looking at http://www.ebuyer.com/product/124927 as the power supply to get, does that look like a sensible choice? They also do the same one in a 500w edition could i get away with just the 500w one? or would i be better off going for a better brand such as antec or hiper?Jonny, I'll let someone else respond to that one.......Artic power? Never herd of them so I would say no.  Are you in the uk I am guessing? http://www.misco.co.uk/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=262111&CatId=370
That should power your computer just fine

Any one know where to get a pentium 3 for a scoket 370?  I tried google and couldn't find it.There's plenty on Ebay. It's probably your best bet, you'd have to get pretty lucky to find a STORE that still STOCKS them.

Or perhaps you can scavenge one from a local junkyard/recycling plant. Ha ha ha, that wasn't funny.  I hate e-bay
http://www.cpu-world.com/forum

Try asking there.
I have no experience with that site.   Let us know if it helps you find what you are looking for.
Ebay is probably your best bet to be honest . . . I've been looking myself but other than scouring local ads that's the best SOURCE I found.
I have a socket 370 P3 too, so I speak from experience.I know that this is years old just wnated to say that I got one off of geeks an its working.

How do you tell how fast your HD's are RMP wise.  I was able to find the orginal calc patio given me to calc the one psu I was going to probably replace http://www.thermaltake.outervision.com/index.jsp  I dont SEE were on the DRIVE it mentions that however.  Try Everest.  Sorry went threw with win 7 a good bit.  Anyone know anything else to try?  I'll try tommorow since I just got xp back on the drive an nothing else is setuphow old is the drive.not really all that old one is sata which is about 2 years an the other are ide which are older an not real sure got these at differnt times from people.HDD Speed Test.

Not sure why this will determine which PSU you buy however...If I recall this is the site you sent me too a good while back.  http://www.thermaltake.outervision.com/index.jsp  To determine what I need I have too have that info.  But if I got such as a powerful psu it wouldnt hurt anything right?  Like if I got a 1000 watt psu it would just use whats needed an not that amount.Not sure what I'm doing wronmg says that it should work with 240 watt but I have a 300 some in there an its not enough.It turns on doesnt it?  If it turns on then why do you need a new one.  Oh and all it will hurt is your electric bill.  That one I recommended you in another thread will work if you dont feel SAFE with 300wA more powerful PSU than you need will not hurt anything.
If it's an extreme case, e.g. 100W PSU and you only need 200W, it will be quite inefficient, but this is irrelevant if it's not so extreme and it's a good PSU.well my harddrives kick off an such its a pent 4

I SET up USERS through the network scanner website. They show up on the machine, but when i got o scan and hit save at user pc, it tries to connect and then says: unable to find destination pc. What else WOULD I need to do?

Simple question, does a 7200rpm HDD use more power than that of a 5400RPM? Next question would there be a notable performance increase of upgrading to a 7200rpm?

The situation is that I have a laptop with a small hard drive, I would like to increase the total memory capacity. Upon a little research about this laptop, I DISCOVERED that it only has a 5400rpm hard drive. I definitely want to increase the memory capacity but if I can also get a speed boost that would be great. However I don't want to sacrifice battery life and extra MONEY for a hard drive that's not going to outperform its predecessor.Yes to both questions.
A 7200rpm hard drive is noticeably faster than a 5400rpm drive.  If it's an IDE drive, it may be a little EXPENSIVE to upgrade, but I highly recommend the Travelstar drives, I have one in my laptop and it's one of the fastest 2.5" IDE drives around I think.  SATA drives are much cheaper.
The battery life won't take a huge hit, I BELIEVE it's in the order of around 10-20 minutes depending on the exact drives and how you use it.It's a SATA laptop.Should be well worth it then.
I can't recommend any SATA laptop drives as I've never used one, but I hear the WD Blacks are great performance if you're willing to pay the premium.
Other than that, just about any quality 7200rpm drive will outperform a 5400rpm model, hands down.

could someone tell me the difference between RAID and non-RAID? i've been looking for a PCI card to add some IDE drives to my pc and am now wondering if i need to be concerned with the RAID vs. non-RAID depending on what drives i want to add (HDD's and optical). thanks.This is RAID. Is this what you would want to know? You can add another HARD disk to your computer and not use RAID as this will only add another drive to it..wow thats alot of info, lol. but i'm still unsure. i know i need a PCI card to add some IDE hard drives and an IDE CD-RW/DVD-ROM combo drive to my computer. it has a SATA drive as the C drive and there is no place on the MOTHERBOARD to add any IDE drives, only SATA drives. hence the reason i need to add the PCI card. Oh, in that case you would surely need that card. Or you may want to consider buying an external closure for hard disk that can accomodate IDE drives..i definitely want to try the card. but i wasn't sure why i saw 2 cards online that seemed to be exactly the same except one said "non-RAID." i didn't know what the difference was, if any. and i already have one IDE hard drive in an external enclosure which i connect via firewire. and my CD-RW/DVD-ROM combo drive in an external connected via usb. they both work but i have at least 2 other IDE hard drives that i would prefer to install in my tower along with the combo drive rather than purchase more external enclosures, SPENDING that much more money and taking up more space on my desk, not to mention i don't know if i'm going to have enough AVAILABLE usb ports for those and any other usb devices i need to use. i know if they do work with the PCI card that they still wont be as fast as SATA or even firewire but IM more concerned with cost and desk space.

I have a Lightscribe DVD writer / cd-writer and a regular dvd-rom that both do not play anything that is put in them. When I go into disk management, it says that they are NOT working properly and that the drivers may be corrupt and/or missing.  I have tried to uninstall and reinstall them (and re-start computer), to no avail.  I have downloaded the driver for the Lightscribe and opened it, but nothing happened.  I can't find a driver for the regular dvd-rom.

How do I get the driver to match up with the dvd player?  What else can I do to fix them?

Thank you for any help.

malibu,Is this a new phenomenon with devices that had previously been working properly? Have you added any new hardware recently? Did you recently install either or both of these optical devices? Answers to these questions will enable us to better assist you. truenorthThey came already installed on the computer when i PURCHASED it approx 3 yrs ago.  They have been working fine till about a year ago, then only worked off and on.  I just haven't been able to do anything about it till now.How old are these devices? And what have they been used for?malibu,I note that the 2 devices were installed and came with the computer about 3 YEARS ago.While it is not impossible the fact that both failed at the same time tends me to believe that the problem is LESS likely to be that they are defective. There are a number of things that you can do to help narrow down the cause of this loss. The 1st is to go into the BIOS of the computer and verify that they are "enabled". Next if that isn't the problem is if you can take them one at a time and install them in another computer to see if they work. Remember if you already have an optical device in the computer you use to test them to set the jumper pins to "slave". It just occurred to me that an additional easy thing to do before transferring the drives for testing is to ensure that the IDE cables are firmly seated in the rear of the drives. While your inside the case it is worth your while to ensure that there is not a large amount of dust accumulation and if there is to blow it out.It is unlikely that it is a software issue insofar as the "drivers" are concerned as they have always been in this computer and have previously functioned. (unless you have changed the operating system to something other than was originally in the computer) A question are you getting other sounds from your computer such as the windows start up sounds? These devices don't require driver installation as they are plug and play. However of course there is a need for proper software to listen to or record media but i assume that is installed. What programs are you using for those purposes? What is shown in "device manager " beside these 2 devices? Do either of them display as being present when your computer boots? I suspect they do if they are being detected in "disk management " but showing as not working properly. If we can if the couple of easy ones don't change things try the test in another computer to see if they will work route before we get into other possible suggestions. There are other ideas i have but i would like you to try these 1st. Good luck,truenorth

P.S. I just noticed another post by you in regards to "installing another HD". If this is in the same machine there could be a relationship to that optical drive issue.One of these may help:
1. Uninstall the drive through Device Manager.
Restart computer. The drive will be automatically reinstalled.
or...
2. http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314060
Restart computer.
or...
3. Download, and run Restore Missing CD Drive patch
Double click on cdgone.zip to unzip it.
Right click on cdgone.reg, click Merge.
Accept registry merge.
Restart computer.
or...
4. Go to Device Manager, click a "+" sign next to IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers.
You'll see two items:
- ATA Channel0 (or Primary Channel)
- ATA Channel1 (or Secondary Channel)
Right click on each of them, and click Uninstall. Confirm.
Restart Windows. They'll be automatically reinstalled.Ok.  I have tried several of the suggestions that have been posted, but the drives remain the same.

  1) I have uninstalled the drives several times, then restarted the computer.  The drives reinstalled automatically.  They still get power, but don't play a disk (same as before)

2) I have looked in the BIOS, and the drives are listed and I believe they are enabled.

3) I looked on the back of each of the drives and the jumpers were both set to CS, so I put one as master and the other as slave, just the way the are listed on the BIOS.  Result is same as #1.

4) I tried a different IDE cable, but no changes.  I don't have another computer to try the drives in.  IDE cables are firmly seated.  Very LITTLE accumulation of dust.

5) I hooked up an old (7-8 yrs old +/-) CD drive - same results as #1.

As always, thank you.  And any other suggestions would be helpful.

Have you tried dis connecting one of the drives from the power & ide ribbon set the jumper correctly. [independent]malibu,Specifically have you tried Broni's suggestion re the "cdgone" download?truenorth

P.S. Here is a link to probably the most comprehensive trouble shooting and fixing of your problem i have seen.You may have tried some but you need to try them all.
http://marvz18.blogspot.com/2008/10/computer-troubleshooting-cddvd-optical.htmlMulreay - the dvd drives are approx 3 yrs old.  I have used them for playing music, writing to cd/dvd's for backups, etc.  I have really not used them all that much over the 3 yrs.

Broni - I will try your suggestions and see if that works - thank you.

Xavier - I tried what you suggested, but with no change.  Thank you though for your input.

Truenorth - I will try Broni suggestions and look at the link you gave, and see how much I can do myself.  Thank you for your input as well.  If you do Bronis suggestion & dont work i would chang out 1 drive as a test.[what else]I'm sorry but I'm thinking burnt out? Or not obviously!After following the driver link that Broni gave, and being able to successfully download and install the new drivers, I finally GOT the drives to work, at least for now. 

Thank you all for those that commented and gave me so many good suggestions.  I am very grateful for your help.Cool Well done,truenorth

I'm thinking of buying a new UPS. I've noticed that some UPS's have built-in AVR's and some do not. Does it really make a DIFFERENCE? Does that have usually are more expensive than those that don't.AVR Voltage Regulation is good to have to condition the power to equipment better, It can clip high voltages to have a nice clean 120 as well as add power during a low voltage condition better than standard non AVR UPSs. Quote from: jquin3 on June 14, 2009, 10:03:51 PM

I'm thinking of buying a new UPS. I've noticed that some UPS's have built-in AVR's and some do not. Does it really make a difference?

... everyone  in the area running AC on the power grid brought the voltage down to the low 100v range and at times it dropped into the high 90 volt range.

ok my issue lies deep within my computer.
to the point where i dont know
on to the point
i have a compaq presario sr5413wm and when plugged in the BACK greenlight stays on and when i press the power button it goes off. and nothing else happens, i check inside the case and find that the fan moves only about a half of an inch then stops. and the only way to get the light back on is to hold the power button.
i personally think that something is shorting it but i dont know enough about compaqs to do any thing nor am i too fimilliar  with new computers with SATA cables i think they are called.

all help appreciated!stonefoxnick,Welcome to the CH forums. Which fan is it that "moves 1/2 an inch then stops"? It sounds very much as if the fan of the Power Supply UNIT has failed. If you have access to another PSU of the same or higher rating then you could swap them out to see if the problem is solved. Do NOT attempt to open your current PSU.That can have dire consequences to your health.truenorthprocessor fan is the fan i was talking aboutOK.That is a fan that is readily replaceable by yourself if indeed that is what has failed. However i would want to try a replacement PSU 1st as it may be that the computer is shutting down as a result of a problem in the PSU (perhaps the fan there). I think it is premature to replace (permanently) anything until the source can be determined.I assume you never get to see anything from the computer on your monitor --no matter how brief? truenorthyou are correct about me not being able to see any result of any COMPONENT of the computer... and that is my problem
this computer is only like 4 or so months old i dont want to throw it away... i just got it today!

so what do i do?
i reset the cmos and pasword but is there a reset for the bios or how exactly do you just reset the whole thing?
If the computer is actually only 4 months old and not just something you purchased outside the normal retail market then it should still be well under warranty. If that is so that it still is under warranty i would not be trying to do anything as it could void your warranty. Warranty coverage if available should be your first option. However until you inform US of that here is something else you can try that will not void the warranty.With the computer unplugged from it's power source press in and hold the front on/off switch for about 20 seconds. Then release it and replug it in to the wall outlet and try to START it by pushing on the start button normally. truenorth
P.S. It could be the switch itself that has failed.
P.P.S. If there is an on/off toggle switch on the rear of the computer you could try turning that one off and then on again as well.

TigerDirect.com is US based in
 
7795 West Flagler St., Suite 35
Miami, FL. 33144

TigerDirect.ca is out of Richmond Hill , Ontario.....so that explains the rapid shipping.ohyeah, I used to know where they all were so I could track my packages without haveing to get on line.You would still have to track your packages so you know when its arriving....Not sure if you guys had noticed but he apparantly has been abducted and not RETURNED...patio,  I'm surprised that you would do that!  In my experience it is really not POSSIBLE to find one exclusive source that provides the best price (including shipping) on all THINGS. If one really wants to get the best price ( on quality parts) one needs to do some research as to who offers the best price on that particular item. IE a source selling video cards may not offer the best deal on ram.In case our OP ever returns. Sometimes what appears to be a simple question requires a more complex answer.truenorththe main PROBLEM as of right now is the economy an probably why you wont.  Its going to cost me $21 just for shipping even if what I WANT is 2.98 Quote from: patio on June 16, 2009, 06:51:06 AM

Not sure if you guys had noticed but he apparantly has been abducted and not returned...

The other day I tried to burn a dvd disc using Nero and the program returned to me with an error message saying there was no dvd in the drive. I switched programs to Ashampoo thinking maybe my burning rights got messed up for Nero (and I was looking to try another program anyway). So I have Ashampoo downloaded and when I tried to set up to burn a DVD movie it gave me this message:

" No compatible CD Recorder found."

When I try to do it for CD's though it works fine and doesn't run into any issues.


When I was trying it with Nero the message I got was this:

" Please ask your system administrator to give you permission to write CD/DVD's."

That message is weird because I've burned discs before on here and I am the only one who USES this computer.

The computer recognizes that there is a DVD in the drive as the system asks me what I want to do with the disc as far as burning files to it, but none of the programs seem to work.

Also, I could play DVD movies in the drive but now I can't. Also, I had a regular cd in the drive to test it and forgot about it. When I clicked into AShampoo than it recognized a disc in the drive and let me try to burn onto it.

The discs aren't bad, they are the same ones I've always used on this computer. In fact, the last two sitting here are from a spindle of 50 of which 48 have been used already. I should also mention that it will let you burn a video DVD from a prepared FOLDER (like VIdeo_TS, but it won't let you burn from files individually."

I run Windows Vista HOME Basic. The drive is a HL-DT-ST DVD +-RW GH30N ATA DEVICE

I checked in properties and is says the drive is working properly. However, when I clicked on "check volume for errors," it gave me this message "Disc check could not be performed becasue Windows can not access the disk."

Please help. I'm not sure if there is a proprietary drive on the computer somewhere causing issues or if the system administrator thing is causing issues. Not sure which route to ATTACK first to fix the thing.
Have you rebooted since the problem began?......If not , do so.... If no change, check your connections to the player, and post your PCs' specs as well......I'm assuming this is an IDE ribbon cable, so check the connection to the player as well as the MBoard. Practice ESD(static) safety, touch the case each time you enter the case.

Can't get a screenshot for this one.  I'm running my computer through my HDTV via HDMI.  I ran a program and when I exited out, the resolution was changed, I went into the NVidia control panel, and accidently hit "change to NATIVE resolution" or something like that, the screen went black, and when it came back, I have multiple green lines covering the screen.  The left side of the screen shows the very right side of the desktop.  The visible part of the desktop is very fuzzy and shifting about.  I tried to go into NVidia control panel to try and fix it and in the MIDDLE of trying to figure out what's going on, without doing anything, the REST of the visible desktop went into those green lines.  I've restarted the computer, but nothing was fixed.  The booting screens are all black with the green lines.  It's impossible to see anything, and I can't even get into Safe Mode because of this.

Any ideas?Is it a Windows OS? Boot into safe mode and make the changes there..YEAH, it's an ACER with Windows Vista.  The problem is that I can't get into Safe Mode as even when booting I've got the black screen with green lines.  That's all I can see.Sorry. I missed the part wherein you said you cant get into Safe mode.. What monitor are you using right now, the HDTV? Try using an ordinary monitor and see if you can get display right..Well, I went and tried to go into Safe Mode blindly, and funny enough, everything's fixed.  Had to change it from 1080i to 720p and resize the desktop, but everything's fixed now.

Thanks for the help, sorry to have made a useless post.  From now on, I'm not touching that button! lolThat's nice to hear,

This DRIVE was originally a MAXTOR back-up drive that my brother in law could never get to accomplish a successful back-up routine when running on his XP desktop system or his new Vista laptop. He gave it to me and I installed upgraded software and tried it on my Vista x64 system and again recieved "back-up failed" error messages. I DECIDED to delete all contents on the drive and use it as a basic external storage drive. My problem is now my system see's it as "Drive not yet initialized". How do I initialize this drive?
It's a Maxtor One Touch III, 200 Gb.
 Do it thru DISK Management...right click My Computer...select Manage...then Disk Management.

OK, I purchased this cable to CONNECT a hard drive from another computer to my computer so I could get the INFORMATION off of it. 

My computer never registered anything showing that any HARDWARE had been added.  Tried restarting did not work. 

Well the a/c power supply for the cable burnt out WITHIN 20 minutes, so now I've hooked the hard drive to the original computer (for the power source) and then hooked the IDE/USB cable to the hard drive and to my current computer.  But still my comp doesn't show a new drive installed. 

I really need this information, so what should I do?  How can I get my current computer to recognize the drive that is installed.If the adapter burnt out, it might have damaged the cable as well.

Have you tried just putting the hard drive into the other computer like a regular drive?

You could ALSO try an external box as well.I tried to connect it into this computer.  I put it as a slave drive, then connected it to the power source,  but when I turned the computer back on, it wouldn't boot up at all. 

Do I need to change some setting on the harddrive in my computer so that when I hook up the old drive it will boot up??? Quote from: sackett22 on June 15, 2009, 10:13:18 PM

I tried to connect it into this computer.  I put it as a slave drive, then connected it to the power source,  but when I turned the computer back on, it wouldn't boot up at all. 

Do I need to change some setting on the harddrive in my computer so that when I hook up the old drive it will boot up???

I have a Toshiba Satellite M45-S169 with ONE open slot, I got some hynix pc2-4200s-444-12 before it was given too me an has 512 mb in it already with xp home on it.  I wondered if I wouldnt be able to use this with it.  I used google an it said that it was ether ddr or ddr2 not sure but I THINK that the laptop uses ddr.  Also I have no clue how to get it in since I dont really work with such things.Go to Crucial.com and run the online scanner...
It will tell you exactly what RAM that laptop will take...I'll have to do that LATER really cant at the moment but can you tell me if the ram is or not?No.
I can't run the laptop scan for you from here...sorry.squall did you go to Crucial?


http://www.crucial.com/store/listparts.aspx?model=Satellite%20M45-S169I was meaning the hynix an no I cant at the time.  Well ddr2 don't work on your laptop you need ddr.so thats what the memory is?Yep   you mean the hynix right?  Cause I pulled them both up on google an dont notice any difference in the two.Had you gone to the Crucial site you WOULD have your answer by now...That I have it still dont tell me really wether that the hydrix is ddr or ddr2 cause I seen that it looks like ether one.Well,it's ddr2.

http://zkarlo.powweb.com/selected-zkarlo-part/ram-p679.phpokay cause I seen were they were CALLING it both an I wasnt sure.

Hi i have been getting this problem over the last few weeks
it GOES to a blue screen and then restarts

BCCode : 1000007e     BCP1 : C0000005     BCP2 : 805C1180     BCP3 : B86F9A74
BCP4 : B86F9770     OSVer : 5_1_2600     SP : 3_0     Product : 768_1   

the following files are included in the report
LOCALS~1\Temp\WERd7e2.dir00\sysdata.xml
\LOCALS~1\Temp\WERd7e2.dir00\Mini061509-01.dmp

please HELP and thanks in advance

 Can you give more info?
What operating system?
Brand and model of computer?
How long has this been happening?
Did you make any software changes before this started?


Also do this:
Go to: C:\Windows\Minidump folder.
If you see any .dmp files, zip them, and attach zipped files to your next reply.it is a custom built pc

i attached a dxdiag

it has been happening for around 6 weeks and follows no specfic pattern, when it happens it SUDDENLY goes to a blue screen with lots of writing on for about 2seconds then restarts and upon logging back in hits me with the serious error message
and as far as i know i made no software changes to the pc

It does run really slow and has frequent freezes/slowdowns aswell

regarding the minidump folder there is 10.dmp folders
 i hope i attached/zipped them correctly

thanks in advance




[attachment deleted by admin]I just had a very similar error message with blue screen.  This is the first problem I've had like this.

Error LOG showed as follows, both in temp:

WERe2c8.dir00\Mini061509-01.dmp

WERe2c8.dir00\sysdata.xml

Has anyone made any determinations?  I cannot find a thing online.  This was one of two posts (in English) that google found.  I'm not computer savvy, so let me know if I can PROVIDE additional info to assist in figuring out what's going on.pcott2323
Please start your own topic.
alphazerg
Your latest errors come from aswSP.SYS, which is part of Avast.
Reinstall.

When i turn on new BUILD it says A7380NMS version 2.0 032408 speed 266x6=15something. Cannot enter bios..hit del and f2 with ps keyboard.nothing.. Also on motherboard bottom RIGHT corner by led connections blue light and red light on... It is a 750i by MSI motherboard. NEW Corsair 4gb memory in dual channel 1 and 3 slots.. new e7400 cpu and heatsink. WD 400 hd sata 3 lightscribe dvd sata 3 in triglon case.
THIS IS A NEW BUILD WITHOUT OS yet. Havent got past that screen... HELP never been stuck like this before. i heard 1 beep. and xfx 9500gt video card. 4 80mm led fans running. 650watt powerkings psu. HELP  i did turn it on and all the fans WORKED too... but still stuck. not getting any further.What does the manual say about those LED's?  Are they meant to convey errors on the board by a combination of colors, etc?When i plug it in the red light comes on... so must be POWER light... when i turn it on a blue light appears right above the red one and still get no further... version 2.0 still.. took cmos battery out for 12 hours.... took memory out and in. unplugged hard drive nothing helps. cleaned artic 5 paste up a little still nothing.Nothing in  this msi manual about that light...BAD MOBO???After further testing nothing... How can i change my bios back to version 1.0 could that be it...You flashed the BIOS ? ?thats the other thing i was studying. i would have to flash by cd/dvd and on msi website they have update 2.1 nothing backwards... It looks pretty complicated with getting dos on cd zipping and archiving... any easy way to do that and were would i find version 1.0 which is on the board...I don't understand...it was either flashed or not.
Where are you getting the BIOS ver. info from ? ?bios version on post stops at dram locks up there doesnt even come up with hit del or f2. frozen not flashed.I had a similar problem a week or two ago. By the sound of it the drive check is not being completed. The second led(BLUE) that stays on is most likely the hard drive "read" LED.
Try disconnecting the hard drive and see if the bios test completes. If you have your Windows boot CD, you can see if you can boot up Windows setup.
I was lucky and the drive that went bad on me was a secondary drive. I didn't have it tested but  expect the drive motor may have died.

You have the Monitor and sound plugged into  the wrong colored-coded intake plug in back of your computer.

Take your computer to a local computer store and have the trusted Tech set your computer up correctly.  A FRIEND with experience can do the same thing.

Good Luck.

p.s.  I had the same problemSound CARD color codes
http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/sound-card-color-code.php






Almost all sound cards USE standard color codes for input/output connector JACKS.

 
In many cards, the microphone connector will be pink, the line out or headphone will be lime green, and the stereo line in will be light blue. Additional jacks may be present on newer soundcards for rear and mid SURROUND speakers.

There is a wildly accepted color standard for computer sound card input and output jacks, but connector colors may vary between different brands. If you think you have a nonstandard card, consult your soundcard's manual or the manufacturer's web site before making any connections.

Sound card color code: Color Connector
Lime Green Line-Out, Front Speakers, Headphones
Pink Microphone
Light Blue Stereo Line In
Orange Subwoofer and Center out
Black Rear Surround Speakers for 5.1 and 7.1 systems
Gray Middle Surround Speakers for 7.1 systems
Gold Midi / Game port (Joystick)

Hi,

I recently became tired of having only 2gb of ram so i decided it was time to upgrade to 4gb. I purchased 2 sticks expected 2gb DDR2 800 Ram (4gb total) and expected a quick and simple switch. After removing the original memory and installing the new sticks, i started my computer only to find that it didn't post, boot, beep, or do any such action to indicate it would do so. The PSU appeared fine, all internal fans and LED's were working, and HDs were still spinning. However, i was getting no video signal on any of my 4 monitors (i run a project studio), and there is typically a bright blue LED that flickers on my motherboard, which indicates activity from my 2 Raptor HDs while they run through the onboard RAID.

I immediately thought that these were signs of bad RAM, since no display or posting is common with those problems. I decided to place the new sticks of Ram into the other DIMM slots (i have 4 total) and ensured they were matched correctly to run in dual channel). Still same symptoms. I tried to use one stick, still same result. I then placed the original Ram back, but this time, expexcting everything to work as normal. However, i experienced the same symptoms. I also tried to alternate DIMM slots just to make sure.h

I am beginning to think that this could be either a problem with the CPU or the Motherboard, even though the system had ABSOLUTELY no problems before hand and i take care of it well. There is a chance that the CPU could have fried, since i then remembered a small error on my part: My cpu is watercooled, with a reservoir, and i made a mistake when i started the computer while it was still on its side (after installing the new ram) I then heard GARGLING in the loop, and i realized that the reservoir probably isn't filled to have enough water to fill the loop when placed on its side. It was on for about 5 SECONDS before i turned it off again, although i know that quad-cores tend to heat up very quickly. Honestly I woudn't know, since I've never fried a CPU before or had any such problems

My specs are as follows:

MSI P6n Diamond Motherboard
Intel Q6600 CPU, B3 STEPPING
     Overclocked to 3.2ghz
OCZ Flex XLC DDR2 800 RAM (Original)
     Voltage: 2.25V
     Timings: 3-4-4-15, 1T
     SPEED: 800mhz
G-Skill Pi DDR2 800 RAM (New)
2 RaptorX 74gb HDD in RAID 0
     Silicon Onboard Hardware RAID
OCZ Gamextreme 800W PSU
M-Audio Delta 1010 Sound Card (recording)
Onboard Creative X-fi Sound (Playback)
Nvidia Geforce 8600 Video Card (1 CRT monitor, VGA, one LCD monitor, VGA)
Nvidia Gefore 6200LE Video Card (2 LCD monitors, 1 VGA, 1 DVI)

Thanks again for your helpMight have cooked the CPU given that the 2.4 ghz was overclocked to 3.2 and the possibility of a cooling failure due to being on its side. Most CPUs have Thermal Throttling to protect from a burn up, but if overclocked I am not sure of the chips temp control can act fast enough to avoid disaster. If you had a spare CPU to use I would swap CPUs and see where that brings you with original Ram in it.I asked my friend if i could swap out his Q6700 for mine. I tested it with both the original and new RAM, and it worked fine both times. We didn't want to try my 66 in his build to avoid having to clear the CMOS or any difficulty, but I think this is a pretty good indication that the CPU was fried. Oh well, i got 3 good years out of it, and my stupid mistakes were the only thing preventing me from squeezing another 3 or so out of it.

Thanks for the quick reply btw, your help was much appreciated

I gotta question if you back up your computer with a
CD/flash drive can you upload it on a different computer? Data files? Yes.Well what I'm TRYING to back up is Photoshop CS 3
Sony Vegas Pro.
ITUNES Music
SIMS 2
IE Favorites IE Favorites - yes
Photoshop, Vegas and SIMS have to be installed. You cannot transfer a program from ONE SYSTEM to another.
Not sure what you mean by iTunes Music.Okay.
Music in my Itunes.
I didnt want to lose it.
If I have to reinstall itunes
then I will. But I want to keep my music.I still don't know what you mean by music in your iTunes. The music is in a folder on your hd, not in iTunes. If you instal iTunes on the second computer you'll either have to copy all the music to the NEW system or upload it from your iPod.Alright. Thank You

Sorry for the STUPID question but what hardware is necessary? I currently own 2 Samsung monitors (Samsung BX2031 20" LED LCD Monitor - 1600x900, 16:9, 1000:1, 5ms, VGA, DVI, Tilt) and would like to run both off of my laptop. There's obviously only ONE space on my Mac to plug in to the monitor, so I ASSUME some sort of splitter, cable, conversion box, etc is necessary to run multiple monitors from my laptop. Thanks


Does your laptop support dual external monitors ??

You have not told us what it is, so i can not tell you if its possible!A splitter seems the only way possible but that will, of course, show the same display on both external monitors.  Is that what you wanted?You can get a little adapter that connects to your USB port and provides an additional VGA or DVI port.  Just do a SEARCH for "USB to DVI adapter" or "USB to VGA adapter"  There seem to be quite a lot of them on Ebay.

They are pretty easy to FIND but you will need to ensure that the one you find is mac compatible.

Hey everyone,
      I am not sure if its the right section to post. So bought this used HP LaserJet 1200 Printer a year ago. It came with the toner and EVERYTHING. Now since a MONTH i been getting print OUTS like this: http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/7127/10052011041524pm.jpg . So does this mean i need a new toner? or is the PROBLEM somewhere else? Please reply ThanksYes, you need a new toner cartridge. You may get a little more life out of your current one by removing it and gently rocking it back and forth and side to side. Quote from: Allan on May 10, 2011, 04:26:35 PM

Yes, you need a new toner cartridge. You may get a little more life out of your current one by removing it and gently rocking it back and forth and side to side.

Computer want power on, power on light flashesI have had this issue with a NUMBER of problems. Most common is bad power supply where a voltage is missing or too low. If this is a desktop and you have a SPARE power supply try to see if it is fixed by installing known good PSU. However the worst case scenario is blown motherboard.

If this is a laptop, REMOVE the battery from the laptop and let it set for a minute, then reinstall battery and apply power supply to it and see if it boots up or still just a blink state instead of SOLID green and boot etc.

Quote from: Kon on May 15, 2011, 02:43:14 PM

The thing that I dont have is a case which considering the front panel it has to be DELL's.

they wouldnt tell you.

There useing a special connector on the board an front.

I play this game called Wizard101. Don't know if u have heard of it or not, but my graphics are HORRIBLE. I thought if I upgrade my graphic card it would help. I do have the lastes vs of my CURRENT ONE, but it doesn't help. If you could please recommend a good one, that is not too expensive for my computer, I would appreciate it.

I have a HP Compaq dc5700
Operation system is XP
Srv pk 3

Is there any additional info u need 2 assist me.

thx so much.
have a funtastic day.You don't mention what your current graphics card is, so I can't tell if that is actually the reason your system is slow. I looked up your comp and it appears to not have a PCI express slot. If you want any kind of decent graphics, you need a computer with a PCI express. You can check yourself, incase the motherboard was switched out or something. If you don't know what PCI express looks like, just go to google images and open up your comp to see if you have one.

If it turns out that you don't, which is what I suspect, then you should GET this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814139038

The price for performance here is really bad. If you are going to be gaming a lot on this comp, then you should look into getting a board with PCI express.The speed isn't the problem. That part of the game is fine. On this one particular game, there is a lot of flashing, sometimes bright lights.

Adapter: Intel R Q965/Q963 Express Chipset
Bio: Intel Video Bios
Chip Type: GMA 3000

Thanks for the help.

so, upon starting my PC(custom) with windows 7, there is no display, not even the BIOS. i tried to switch the monitor display from the video card(ati radeon 9200se) to the on-board video, thinking that the video card might be dead, but it's the same- no display. i know for a fact that the PC is not even attempting to boot into windows, as i can't do a shutdown by pressing the "power" button the keyboard(which i usually can do, from the USER accounts login screen). the lights turn on, and the CD-ROM drives work.

is the power supply fried? how can i go about testing to see what the problem is?What do you see on the display? Quote from: Allan on May 14, 2011, 01:47:19 PM

What do you see on the display?

Does anyone KNOW of a good free hard driver tester that will scan for hard drive faults?  OjasMost big makers  of Hard rives offer stand alone diagnostics that can boot from a floppy.
One such utility is Sea tools from Seagate. But I need to tell you, it can do more harm that good.

My recommendation, and others who work in the industry,  is go get a new replacement hard drive if you have any reason to think the drive is not reliable. The  time it takes to recondition a failing drive is not worth it.  Even if you are  an EXPERT. The price of a new drive is now at the level of a preconditioned drive of the same size and type.
Depending on the condition of your Hard drive for TESTING such as maintaining or checking the status , Microsoft OS system has a basic diagnostic or system tool LIKE Error checking or a defragmentation PROGRAM or using defraggler. Another useful way to check the integrity of your hard drive is using chkdsk (/f/p/r) for any file system error or bad sectors. A failing hard drive would mean using the manufacturing diagnostic tool.
 http://pcsupport.about.com/od/toolsofthetrade/tp/tophddiag.htmhttp://www.tacktech.com/display.cfm?ttid=287

Hello,
I've got a plotter (WELL, it's a VINYL cutter), which is serial and according to the manual the PIN-outs are as follow.


It looks to be as if they put '1' for RTS when really they meant '7'. However, that aside, is this a standard straight through cable because TX/RX are not crossed but I thought if it were straight through then 4/6 and 7/8 wouldn't be linked?

I'd rather just buy a cable, but this layout is confusing me

Thanks for any help in letting me know about this layout.Early serial connector layouts  were defined by the COMPUTER maker.  If that was they WAY they did it, that was the way it worked. Standard layouts became standard later.
The layout you show in the picture is not exceptional at all.

Here is another almost the same.
http://www.diyha.co.uk/electronics/comm1.html
And with photos
http://www.google.com/search?q=9+pin+serial&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=yHq&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&prmd=ivns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=Sc7LTbDjKZO4sAObjqToBg&ved=0CDIQsAQ&biw=853&bih=372
I like this one:
Read this:  http://www.camiresearch.com/Data_Com_Basics/RS232_standard.html
The manual is incorrect if it shows Tx on Computer connected to Tx on Plotter, same for Rx.  Tx is never connected to Tx & Rx is never connected to Rx, no matter what pin they are on.Computer_Commando, That is a very good reference.
Does it apply to the question of the OP?
I respectfully disagree.
The manual he has is not for general applications. It is specific to just one product made some time ago. There was no rule that they had to observe conventions used by others. In fact, some other small computer makers at the time made the 9 ping assignments in their own way. It was chaos.
The diagram is consistence  with itself.It is for a special cable needed for that particular device. A technician would wire the cable exactly as shown. The cable does not care what you call the wires. The terms Tx and Rx are for reference.
Here is yet another reference that gives modern conventions.
http://www.lammertbies.nl/comm/cable/RS-232.html
But what the OP has is old assignment t for just one product.
But it there is any doubt, he needs to test the individual lines and find out what they are.

I am having an issue with second SATA drive not LOADING as master. Quick background - I have a dell xps 400 that has some minor upgrades (RAM, power supply, graphics). It recently wouldn't turn on. I experienced a similar problem in the past and replaced the power supply and everything was fine. I purchased a new Rocket Fish gaming p/s and installed it. Still no power. After some investigating I determined the motherboard was damaged/inop. I happened to have an OLDER MPC at home, so out of curiosity, I installed the new p/s, extra RAM and SATA drive from the Dell to the MPC. It fired right up and worked fine. It booted from the MPC hard drive, so I set the Dell h/d to master in system setup. When i rebooted with the Dell drive as master, it goes immediately from MPC splash screen to BSOD stop error. I installed the pin jumper from the Dell drive to the MPC drive and same result. When I boot from the MPC drive, I can ACCESS all data on the Dell drive no problem so I'm sure the drive is fine and the BIOS recognizes both drives, but I want to boot from the Dell drive as it has a newer o/s (XP Media Center vs XP pro), and it's an inconvenience to bounce back and forth. Is this a partition problem, DUAL o/s problem, or something else?? Thanks for any ideas.The answer: Something else.

Your Dell drive will not boot in that computer. Transferring a drive with Windows on it from one computer to the other generally doesn't work. You are likely to run into a number of problems, as is your case, plus another problem you haven't encountered yet but potentially might.

The other problem you will have if you do manage to get it to boot is that if that OS came with the Dell PC, when it boots it will notice a significant hardware change and require you to reactivate Windows. Trouble is, the Windows license that came with that Dell won't be valid for the "new" system and activation will likely be rejected. There's nothing, legally anyway, you can do about that. This also means we can't really help you make that work since bypassing licensing and such is not allowed here.

If you want help getting the old system working again on the other hand, I'm sure someone can help with that.Would the best option be to replace the dell motherboard then?Do you have the exact motherboard model?
Is it this?
DELL Dimension 9150 9100 Motherboard

They are expensive new, but used without the CPU you can find for about $100 on eBay.
This is not an endorsement for ebay.Instead of replacing the Dell mobo, you could USE the Dell HD(but not the OEM disc) for a dual boot in which you need to order another set of WinCDs or instead just use it as a back up hard drive.

What should i do with my HDD it start noising when i start one or more operation at a time. What you recommend me to replace my HDD or do repair it.?What type of noise? And I DELETED your advertising signature.i had a similar problem (it was making a clicking noise) i am not sure if it is the HDD but it is Scary Quote from: Danomann on May 10, 2011, 03:39:19 PM

i had a similar problem (it was making a clicking noise) i am not sure if it is the HDD but it is Scary

Older hard drives always make a crackling/clicking noise when seeking data.

Out survey INDICATES that 9 out of 10 users with the drive noise problem found full relief by replacing the hard drive with a new, improved model. As for the tenth user,  she had a mouse inside the PC case and THOUGHT it was the hard drive.

For curiosity sake -if possible-, remove the covers from the old drive, install the cables and let the drive hang outside the PC. Start up and then it will show you where the noise is coming from. 

Every program/INTERNET page i GO into on my Laptop, the background is Black with luminous writing. plz help.?
my desktop is fine on my laptop.
but when i open up any page... internet explorer, firefox, microsoft word, ETC... the background is black instead of white and the writing is luminous yellow, red or blue.
whats happened.
please help.Perhaps somebody chose a high-contrast THEME in Accessibility Options?

Hi, I'm having some issues with my computer becoming completely unresponsive after 2-3 hours of use.

Everything on my screen stops apart from my cursor.  With computer freezes in the past when there has been a bug I can Win+D or Alt+tab out, this does nothing and neither does bringing up Task manager.
I hear no sounds coming from a HDD as if my computer was even trying to load something up, so I figure all can do is force the computer to shut down by holding the power button.

On booting up the the computer again I see no error messages and all seems fine.


I recently upgraded my video card from a Radeon X300 SE to a Radeon 5450 HD
I also upgraded with 1 stick of  512mb ddr, if thats worth noting too


My computer is a HP Pavilon t760.uk running Windows XP

PTGD1-LA (Puffer) motherboard
Pentium 4 2.93GHz
1.5gb ddr

I use Norton Internet Security with all the latest updates and quick scan every DAY, full scan once or twice a WEEK, running a scan as I type.  But I assume it's something to do with heavy usage or a heat problem so I'm going to shut the computer down as soon as the scan is done then check back here if anyone has any ideas what it is or what I can do about it.
According to ATIs control center the card is at 50°C.  I don't know if this is good or bad.  Or if it's anything to go by, since it also tells me the fan speed is at 30% when it has no fan
Thanks for any help


EDIT: forgot to add, I have uninstalled the old drivers and updated the to the 5450 ones tooInteresting... that scan I was doing came back with a high risk virus...  Not sure wether I should be happy or not haha..  I'm happy that it now sounds less like it's my new HARDWARE over heating and instead just something on my hdd that shouldn't be there... does make you worry though, not a clue how it got there..

I'll be back though if my system does freeze up again though

I'm going to try to look more into the temperatures my comp is running at,  though COULD anyone tell me what kind of temps are bad and which are ok? because that is one thing I have never understood Quote

though could anyone tell me what kind of temps are bad and which are ok? because that is one thing I have never understood

For CPUs in general, I would say the max is about 65C and for GPUs 75C.

Greetings,

I have a Canon IP1600 printer, running WIN XP, and  have two quick questions. 

Are the print nozzles for the Canon IP1600 located in the print cartridges?

Secondly, my printer tends to go thru a lengthy "initialization process" each time I try printing anything.  Sometimes it lasts for a minute or so as the cartridges seem to be going back and forth inside the printer.  I've had the printer for a while and I don't recall it doing this when I first got it.  Could I have changed a configuration setting or should I install a more current driver if available?

Any help appreciated,
Thank you,
Updating a driver is never a bad THING. The printer will always do tests to make sure it's positioned properly so it may take a moment. Imagine you trying to find out where you are in an empty room with a blindfold on!! If the printer works fine then.... you only have to wait a little while. The nozzles for printing are on the printer head. The ink comes from the cartridge

Updating a driver can be a bad thing.....my THEORY is if it works....leave the drivers ALONE.

I have a old PC at home and it has a 1.6GHZ processor and a OLD Gigabyte Motherboard plus a 80GB HDD. It also has a DVD Drive and a decent Graphics card. Ive got a nice logitech Keyboard and Mouse and even a 22 inch LCD monitor. I want to upgrade my Motherboard and processor and ive got a list on parts that i want 2. I was wondering if SOMEONE could tell me if the parts are compatible and what i have to do to install them into my old case. Thanx What kind of graphics card do you have? Brand and model?
What is the budget for the BOARD and CPU?
What kind of Power Supply do you have?I'll post the info when i get back from camp on friday (AUS TIME)
Thanxpart        product
mobo                   GB GA-G31M-ES2L
cpu                   intel e5200
memory                   kingston 2G - 800
graphics card   ASUS GeForce 8400GS
psu                   SHAW 680W
dvd drive   SAMSUNG        dvd-rw
These are my parts for my new computer, are they compatible?

Ok, I just WANT to make SURE that the drive, "Sony DVD RW DW-Q120A"  is just a DVD drive and not a DVD Burner, I just need some reaffirmation since I couldn't FIND much info about it online. BumpIt's a burner.
What is the issue ? ?
It's old enough to be failing...Well its not burning DVD's any more, only reading them, from what I thought from the few online sources I could find that it was just a DVD drive capable of only reading and playing DVD's and CD. I thought it could not burn other DVD's. The drive belongs to one of my friend's desktop and he SAYS that the drive doesn't Burn DVD dics. He has a secondary CD burner to burn CD's but when he tries to burn DVD's the drive doesn't reconize blank DVD's. I'm pretty sure it's not the type of DVD, the drive doesn't reconize blank +/- RW, +R or -R Well it doesnt recongize blank DVD as  DVD it thinks it is a CD and when one clicks on the drive with a blank DVD in it you get an error message. He said that before he installed the second CD drive he was able to burn DVD's but could not remeber for sure. So maybe it has something to do with BIOS settings? Also after he installed the secondart CD drive his front USB port and audio inputs don't work only the rear do.Replace it...BRAND new Dual-layer burners are about 35 Bucks shipped right now from newegg...yeah, I got a new one, Sony Optiarc DVD±R DVD Burner. Sorry for the late reply.

Long story short, I want to wipe my hard DRIVE so that I can trade in my old COMPUTER that I don't use anymore. I'm under the impression that the only way to wipe the hard drive is to format it. However, I don't have a backup of the OS disk handy. Is there any way for me to wipe/format the hard drive without the OS disk?Go to http://www.dban.org /Thank you for the website. I download and try the program tonight and will update on status tomorrow.Downloaded the program but couldn't quite figure it out enough to get it to work.

Ended up SEARCHING for and FINDING the XP cd and FORMATTING the computer normally.

Thank you for the help, though.