Explore topic-wise InterviewSolutions in .

If you can salvage the PIECES try epoxy, if not able to do this try to get the same motherboard with same chip set. This might be a hard to find itemwell the cradle is still there and is epoxy safe to use on a motherboard? that was my first thought but i wasn't sure if it would be safe or not. also, I've been looking around for heatsinks/fans for this specific motherboard/chipset and it is really hard to find. so with all this information i have here, if the epoxy is safe to use to adhere the cradle to the motherboard, and combine that with the thermal COMPOUND i think that we may have a winner. what do you think?Epoxy or CA (thick) ....... ideal if you are preared to go this route - and it probably is the best as finding another mobo will be less than easy.

Find if you can a small area of mobo with nothing on it - one corner maybe, just a small PATCH and apply some CA or mix and apply some epoxy - and let is set/cure and inspect. If OK - move to repair project. Scratch up cradle underside a bit to help 'key'' the adhesive - same too if careful for small areas of PCB - if you get a good bond then things should work out.

Modern PCB's are fiberglass or similar which is pretty inert.Yes the epoxy is safe its non metalic. use the 2 part clear. What you do is mix equal portions & mix & apply. Go to NEW egg.com you will find your heat sink at this site.Or you can go to tigerdirect.com. GOOD LUCKthanks guys i appreciate all the help!!

I am trying to decide between the ATI 4870 or the nvidia 9800 gx2. I would one day like to
make use of THIER HDMI capabilities and would like to GET an opinion on which would be the better choice. I would like to hear from current owners and as usual the GODS from
H. i appreciate all the advice you can GIVE me,my research is making it a difficult
choice.

If you have replaced the IDE cable with a new one and all else is good i suspect your PSU is getting ready to head South...

Borrow a known good one of the same or greater WATTAGE and swap it in there and do a few test burns...I UPGRADED my PSU from 360W to 550w Antec truepower 10 months ago.

I just built a new computer and the first time i booted i was able to get into the bios, i changed one setting and when i tried to save it froze. I tried again and it froze when i pressed delete to get into bios. I got into bios settings again on the third try and tried uploading the failsafe cmos but it froze again when i tried doing that....now it just plain freezes up when i press delete to get into the bios settings! I've built one computer before and that went smoothly so I don't have a lot of experience troubleshooting these things....where should i start? Or should i just send back the MOBO while i can?Need more info: what kind of processor?

If its AMD perhaps you haven't secured the heat sink well enough.

That's just a guess though.The motherboard is a Gigabyte x38 ds4 and the processor is a intel q3450Have to start with the basics then:

Disconnect everything but monitor and keyboard.

Try the bios. If it hangs, then re-seat the memory. Make sure its in all the way, its a bit tricky.

No dice? Try clearing the cmos.

Last resort, try reseating the cpu. It's unlikely, but possible its not making good contact.

When you unlatch the cpu and PULL it out, look at the pins in the socket to see if any are bent. Its really easy to bend them by accident. I did it on one of my systems. I used a knife to straighten them out and the system is working fine. Its not easy to straighten them so be careful if you have to straighten them out.

Let me know how this goes.I tried everything you suggested and no dice although i dont know if it's of any importance but it seems like the system works longer before freezing now(1 min compared to 30 sec before). All of the pins in the socket look fine and I was able to sit and watch the cpu temp for the 30-45 sec i was in bios and it stayed right around 27 C. I switched my ram to the other two slots just in case that could be causing anything and I unplugged everything not crucial to the motherboard. Have any other ideas?I'm just GUESSING now. Sorta thinking out loud.

Can you try other memory?

I wonder if it will boot long enough to run memtest86.

You could check the mobo manufacturer and see if there's a bios update. Its possible (but unlikely) that the motherboard bios has issues.

There's a problem though. If you can't boot to CD or floppy you might not be able to reprogram the bios safely. It would seriously suck to get part way through reflashing and have it lock up. The system could become unbootable.

So, try this:

1. Let the system boot the windows CD and see if it hangs while doing that.
2. if it seems like it wants to install you can try to install but keep in mind it might all go to *censored*. I suggest you skip this step.
3. find out what version of bios you have (its listed on the boot screen and should be, but sometimes isn't, listed in the system info screen of the bios setup page.)
4. Visit the mobo manufacturer's web page and see what the latest version is. Please note: I have a cheapy motherboard who has the latest bios on their European web site (UK) but not on the US site, so look around and make sure you find the latest.
5. If the bios version on the mobo manufacturer's web site is newer than the one on your board, make a windows XP boot floppy and then put the new bios on another floppy.
6. Then boot the windows floppy, swap floppies and ...

7. MAKE SURE THE SYSTEM IS STABLE FOR A WHILE. I don't know how to do that other than letting it sit and running dir a few times.

8. If all seems good, then go ahead and flash the bios.

This could be the problem if the mobo can't handle quad cores or if some other bios issue is causing the hang.

You can also read the BIOS release notes on the mobo manufacturer's web site to see if they specifically mention your CPU...

Let me know what you decide to do. Its starting to sound like a bad mother board or possibly memory.

My cpu is under the support list. I don't have access to any other memory i could try out and the way its acting i don't think there's any chance that the system would run long enough to risk flashing the bios.....I think i may just send it back for a replacement and if the same thing happens I'll have to resort to that. I remember reading under newegg reviews(a diff mobo than mine) that they had a support problem with quad cores on their board and they were lucky enough to have a diff processor that worked so they were able to pop that in and flash the bios like that....now if i could just get my hands on another core 2 processor hahQuote from: wd1020 on August 28, 2008, 11:37:09 AM

I remember reading under newegg reviews(a diff mobo than mine) that they had a support problem with quad cores on their board and they were lucky enough to have a diff processor that worked so they were able to pop that in and flash the bios like that....now if i could just get my hands on another core 2 processor hah

Hey, i got a slight problem here. I built myself a new machine about a week ago, now this was the first time i EVER did this so i dunno if i did everything right, anyway, everything went fine for about a week then yesterday my monitors screen went black, the light was still on but it wasnt displaying ANYTHING, so i switched to the on board graphics card, same problem, plugged the monitor into a different machine, same problem. So im pretty sure the monitor is no longer working, so i get another monitor plug it in and it WORKS fine for about a day then a few hours ago this new monitor started doing the same thing, so now i have two monitors both unable to display anything on any computer. The common denominator here appears to be my computer, does anybody have any idea about what the problem could be? Thanks alot cheers ( SORRY about any untidy structuring, im doing this on my phone since my comp is out of action) This could be a voltage PBLM.Quote from: xavier

This could be a voltage PBLM.

I wandered how I can get better quality picture from my montior. I just bought a new a rig and new monitor. I went from a 17" CRT monitor to a 19" TFT monitor (HannsG 19" Widescreen TFT Monitor) yet the picture quality is not that clear, and my old one seems to have better quality.

Intel Quad Core Q9450 @ 2.66GHz
4GB Corsair 1066MHz memory
Gigabyte 775 Intel P45 MOTHERBOARD
Sapphire Technology Radeon HD 4850 512MB PCIE DDR3 graphics card
OCZ Technology StealthXStream 600WPSU
Western Digital Caviar SE16 320GB S300 16MB HDD
CoolerMaster Elite 330 ATX No PSU Black
Vista Home Premium 64 bit SP1

I installed all the drivers for my motherboard and graphics card, and have tweaked with the settings and resolution but can't seem to get that GOOD quality out of it. It seems a little grainy and off colour, and video's don't LOOK good either, which is bad considering I am running Aero.

Help WOULD be much appreciate thanks. Not sure, but did you try pressing Auto Adjust on the monitor?
See if that helps at all.Aye I did, it didn't. I have that same monitor, and for me it's great quality.
Just checking - is the resolution at 1440x900, and is it at 32-bit colour?

I want to buy a new computer and use my 40"LCD HDTV as the monitor; Will this work and do I need a specific type of computer or hook-ups?
Sorry, I am very ignorant about computer stuff. Any suggestions or thoughts on this idea would be appreciated. Yes it will work, but may I also suggest you buy a HDMI cable, as this will give a picture that is much clearer then RGB. Does your graphics card have HDMI support? Hi - thank you for your reply. I am sorry, but I don't know what a graphics card is - hence the username "comp4dummy". I am not too hip on computers. We have a laptop from 2002 and thats it at the moment. We want to get a new one soon, and I went to someones HOUSE that had a computer set-up with the TV. I thought it would be so convenient to sit back on the couch and surf the internet, view netflix, etc. If you look in the back of your TV, what connection ports does it have? (if you can identify them)The TV has the FOLLOWING hook-ups:
2 component
2 HDMI
1 DMXe
1 RGB
1 S-video
and 2 std video in
It is a Sony Bravia Flat Panel LCD HDTV
I was just looking at the manual, GUESS I should have done that first, and it recommends either and HDMI to HDMI or DVI (from the computer) with audio to the HDMI - It mentions a HD15 - what is this?
I guess I want to know from a practical standpoint if I will be able to purhase a less expensive computer ($400-700) and still get a close enough quality as the HDMI? Also, for using my wireless router, I was told that not all of the desktops have a space for network card ? ThanksQuote from: comp4dummy on AUGUST 09, 2008, 11:35:21 AM

Also, for using my wireless router, I was told that not all of the desktops have a space for network card ? Thanks

Hey, I'm looking into buying a new Graphics card for general gaming cause some of the new GAMES don't seem to be even working on my Inspirin 'Bad VERTEX Shaders'. I was wondering which graphics card 'types' would work in my dell inpsiron 530. The standard build in one is quite poor. And some direction in which some cards that would improve what I currently have please .
If you need more info

specs XP
currently have from 'display'
Direct XP 9
Intel(R) G33/G31 express Family Chipset
Chiptype: Intel(R)GMA 3100
DAC TYPE: Internal
Approx total memory 128MB
3.24gig ram (I KNOW I think when we bought it we didn't know you need vista for 4 gig+ but meh)
You can't upgrade laptop video, sorry but they're not meant for gaming.
Also, you don't need Vista for 4GB+ of RAM, but a 64 bit OS.

Welcome to the forums!So I cant replace it at all? :< hmm I just assumed there was somway to improve it rather than it being impossible If there was a way to improve my Laptop's Graphics Card, I would have done it in a second.Well I have a desktop so I THOUGH it would have like a way so yeh nvmOn a select few models, it's possible.
You're not one of those "lucky" few though (I say "lucky" because they'd be as well to buy a new laptop as shell out for an upgraded card, they're so expensive).
This is why I don't like laptops.

Hi

I have an advent 7111 laptop, its 2 years old and until now I've had no problems with it. When I try to switch it on, the blue LIGHTS come on as normal, the FAN then comes on, the screen stays black, the fan KEEPS going until I remove the power supply. Can anyone help?

Thanks

WendzWe need more INFORMATION, Please look here.

When you turn on the laptop, if you hold some light at the screen, can you see anything?

Well I tried switching the hard drive with another one that my brother had lying around. Not really sure what is on it (probably an old operating system). When I BOOT up with that connected still no display signal and in ADDITION it occasionally beeps a couple of times every minute or so (I assume its prompting me to do something with the new drive that I cant see).Possibly, and it is possible the drive cannot interface with the hardware because either it is not compatible with the OS or because it cannot find appropriate drivers.

Unless anyone else has any other ideas, you could try plugging the hard drive into the desktop computer as a Slave LIKE I mentioned earlier. This way you can ACCESS the Laptop Hard Drive and possible repair the OS.

To do this, you will NEED a cable like this:

2.5" laptop HDD to IDE converter.

Stupid Question but does the GFX CARD take any form of external connectors?
If so are they plugged in?no but its a GOOD question ONE of my past GRAPHICS card didany other ideas guys?

Just signed on & using Netzero DSL for about a week through USB cable. During the hours 7am- 9pm connection is normal,but after 9pm DSL signal connection {no way}! Called support always get the same lame basic fix-it procedures{do-not work} I have to go back to & use "basic" NZ dial-up to connect back to the WEB internet ! Could upgrading the USB drivers would HELP or would buying & installing an ETHERNET/networking PCI Card be the right move to get the best & fastest connection signal & speed hook-up?? MY PC / 98' Dell Dimension L400c desktop/ 400mhz fireball PROCESSER/ 381mb sdram memory/ THANKS!!& HELP!!!Quote from: beanodino1 on August 09, 2008, 04:42:15 PM

During the hours 7am- 9pm connection is normal,but after 9pm DSL signal connection {no way}!

Dear BRONI,

I installed a thing, EVEREST, that ID'd all my parts. computer parts that is. i can now tell you MANY THINGS of which i do not know which of that i SPEAK.

is there a way to remove a hard drive from a laptop and connect to a computer VIA usb and is there any software that i would need.
have pictures that i did not back up
thanks
Quote

have pictures that i did not back up

My new computer and the broken one are both laptops will that connector work

Quote from: vanman60 on August 04, 2008, 01:44:02 AM

My new computer and the broken one are both laptops will that connector work

No - Will work to use drive with a desktop computer.

Look at street1's enclosure, it will work with any computer with USB - just be sure to match the connector for any enclosure with that of your hdd - the referenced enclosure is NOT for SATA drives, for example.

I do not believe so.
Parents BOUGHT it, brother installed it 4 months later...

I guess I'll just get the money together and buy the fanWell, it's your call, but considering $30 for a new fan + your labor, you can get same new card at Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/PNY-NVIDIA-GeForce-Graphics-VCG66256APB/dp/B000A2AIKU for $55.I did not realize how cheap the same model is. I guess now I will definetly just wait it out till Wednesday when I get payed and buy a new card. However would, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814143102 , be a BETTER purchase?It has more RAM, but it's more EXPENSIVE, and....read reviews.Forgot to read those... I suppose I just thought the next GENERATION for only $20-30 more might be better than buying the exact same card. I've never really been ABLE to set game graphics to max with this card, which was the only reason for considering the next best.

Hello, my PC has been acting strange, and I can't seem to nail down what exactly the problem is. First, it seems to "stutter", or go unstable, or whatever you want to call it. The mouse will "stutter", or "drag". I use to have around 60FPS in games I played, but now I'm down to about 5. It also takes forever to boot up Windows.

Same with sound/music I'm playing, or videos, or games. It also takes FOREVER to install things. Files, games, etc. And it usually has a non stop beep, that sounds almost like an ambulance siren until I totally close down every program and just do nothing.

I've tried to switch out my RAM, and I've ran a HD check, it had bad areas or something, but I think it fixed it. Not sure though.. could it be that?

Also, I have Spybot, Avast anti virus, and Zone Alarm firewall. I run checks all the TIME, so it can't be a virus or spyware.

System SPECS are:
Windows XP Pro, SP 2
Intel P4 3.20Ghz
2GB of RAM
Abit IC7-G MAX Motherboard
Nvidia GEFORCE FX 5900XT
200gb HD

I forgot the sound card..

I know this is an older PC, but it's been fine up until now Just trying to figure out what is wrong. ThanksYour computer seems to be what my friends and I call "tarded up". Have you considered a reload of the OS? Otherwise, I'd use msconfig to clear out some startup items.Also - maybe inspect ''processes'' and see if anything is running that ain't wanted - or shouldn't be there. Seems like something is hogging resources, bad.

Does safe mode takes ages to boot?

Maybe from there turn off stuff selectively to try and track down the cause ... try a win full boot with as much off as you think you can perhaps.Same in Safe Mode?I couldn't even boot it into safe mode. I reloaded the OS, it runs the same, and the beeping is there still, too. So I'm pretty sure it's a hardware problem. What would cause that? bad HD? CPU? MOBO?

ThanksQuote from: Warx87 on August 22, 2008, 10:58:00 AM

And it usually has a non stop beep, that sounds almost like an ambulance siren until I totally close down every program and just do nothing.

I've tried to switch out my RAM, and I've ran a HD check, it had bad areas or something, but I think it fixed it. Not sure though.. could it be that?

it usually has a non stop beep, that sounds almost like an ambulance siren until I totally close down every program and just do nothing.

Okay, first off.. The beep sometimes starts right as I turn it on, as in, before windows even loads. Sometimes it doesn't at all until I load up some programs, it's pretty weird. But it always has that "unstableness", and stutter.

1. I removed, and reset the video card. I do not have onboard graphics, only the video card I listed.(mobo doesn't have it)

2. HD has 144gigs free space, it's a 200gig drive.

3. Yes, it usually stops beeping when I only have a messenger or no windows open, but the system still acts unstable, and stuttery/draggy.

4. I already downloaded the Seagate HD test off their site, and it came up with errors after I had tried the chkdsk already.

5. The BIOS is Phoenix, and the beeping is a long siren type beep, like a police car or ambulance. It's not like a 1 1 2, or 3 beep, etc..

6. For my RAM, I tried two sticks in the 4 different modules, it was all the same. I think the RAM is fine though.

One weird thing I just noticed.. I ran the ABIT EQ that is on here, and under all the areas, they're all "green" except the CPU voltage, it says(I think) it should be +3.3v, but it comes up in red as 3.1v would that mean anything? It makes me come back to thinking my CPU is dying..

Thanks.

(What's the standard here? Top quote or bottom quote?)

Quote from: RayDude on August 25, 2008, 02:04:06 PM

(What's the standard here? Top quote or bottom quote?)

Seems to be top.

Welcome to CH!

4. I already downloaded the Seagate HD test off their site, and it came up with errors after I had tried the chkdsk already.

About 2 months ago I noticed that my computer was starting to slow down when I played certain games and when I watched videos. At the time my hard drive was making horrible noises, so I went and bought a brand new one thinking that was the problem and nothing has changed. Tonight however, I discovered the problem. When I move my mouse around my CPU usage goes up to 30-50% from 0-5% when I am doing nothing. When I am watching videos on websites or playing games, it goes even higher causing everything to lag. Could this be a problem with my CPU itself? Or could this all be in my head and be a problem with my video card?
Any input is greatly appreciated.Have you defragged it? RAN Ad-aware by Lavasoft to make sure you haven't contracted a nasty spy/malware? Or have you run AVG free virus scanner? Or whatever anti-virus software you have on your computer?My computer is totally free of any spyware/viruses. The problem continued as soon as the new HDD was ready to go. Also, my webcam doesn't work. When I turn it on, it works for about 30 seconds then shuts off and won't work again for a while. So I have been wondering if its my video card...but people are telling me it could be my CPU. I'm just REALLY stumped. I'm starting to rule out my hardware piece by piece but not having spare parts around to test with, it gets costly.
Overall, the computer is running smoothly but the problems start with my mouse causing my CPU usage to soar.Minor question but ...... is this mouse a regular (type) MS wheel mouse or other. Any changes in system re additions etc? How old is mouse?

It'd be useful to know if another mouse produces same troubles. Mouse activity as you no doubt realize, should not place great work on CPU....and what Windows version is it?I'm using the Logitech G5 laser mouse, have been for almost 2 years, my problem just started out of the blue a couple months ago. I am running Windows XP Home.Try different mouse.Quote from: Broni on August 27, 2008, 09:41:10 PM

Try different mouse.

When I move my mouse around my CPU usage goes up to 30-50% from 0-5% when I am doing nothing.

System Idle Process as main CPU taker..

Hi all,

Looking for some assistance. I'm running Windows Vista and have an Epson Scanner V100. I recently started having problems with the scanner as I keep getting an error when I try to scan something ("Epson Scan cannot be started"). I also have a BROTHER MFC-440CN all-in-one printer and both are plugged into the USB ports on the back of my TOWER. Weird thing is, my printer works FINE, but it's the scanner function that doesn't work. I tried to switch the USB plugs around and that worked a couple times. I don't seem to have a problem when I plug them into the USB ports in front of the tower.

I did go to Control Panel to remove the Epson from the Scanners and Cameras listing, but it won't let me. I can't right click it or check the Properties. I did uninstall Epson Scan and re-install it. That worked until I shut down and booted my computer the next day.

Thanks for your help everybody.Go Start, type in:
services.msc
Hit Enter.
Services window will open.
Scroll down to:
Windows Image Acquisition (WIA)
Make sure, this service is set to Automatic, and it Started, already.Windows Image Acquisition is already set to Automatic and status is Started.Are you saying, that both, Epson Scanner V100 (standalone), and scanner module of Brother MFC-440CN don't work?
And they both work, when plugged in to front panel USB?Yes. The Epson and the scanner on my Brother seem to work fine when I plug them in the front USB ports. But, I don't think the ports are damaged as the printer works and I've plugged a flash drive into both of them and that's okay.

Forgot to mention that when I attempt to manually start the Epson scanner, I get an error that says "Open Devinf.def File error." That's only when I can actually get it to work when it's plugged into the front ports.I did search for "Open Devinf.def File error", but all I got were Chinese pages.
Did you try to contact Epson?
I had similar problem: "Epson Scan cannot be started", but in my case, it was a problem with the service, I mentioned before, not running.
When I contacted Epson via email, they responded in next 24 hours. You may try it.1. USBDeview. The following utility, USBDeview by Nirsoft, may be useful. You can use it to clean up any "ghost" USB entries in your system registry. It may prove helpful with your problem. At any rate it provides a lot of useful information in a format that's easier to read than Microsoft's "Device Manager".

http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/usb_devices_view.html


2. Device Manager. Have you checked the status of your USB devices/hubs/controllers under Microsoft's Device Manager utility? Any yellow or red flags, or any error statuses within device manager?
As scanners have PRETTY high power requirements you may want to unplug as many devices as you can when SCANNING...Thanks for your help, guys. Scanners still aren't working right. I'll contact EPSON.Quote from: WillDLeeEsq on November 15, 2007, 04:08:40 PM

Thanks for your help, guys. Scanners still aren't working right. I'll contact EPSON.

when i try to play dvd in my player the pictures and sounds go all jumpy and in some cases dont work at all. also if i try to play anything from the internet it does not MATTER which program i use it does not seem to make a difference. i have looked in my Device Manager and there APPEARS to be something wrong with my " Multmedia controller and Multimedia video controller. could this be the source of the problem if so how do i FIX it.

yours

JohnWhat model computer do you have?

This can be caused by a NUMBER of ISSUES... Has your system been able to play DVDs before and since degraded in quality or ?

ThanksI would say we are dealing with an old computer here?

I am correct

I am looking at an External Hard Drive USB 2.0

One of them take 2. SATA Drives and you can have one T.B. of Hard Drive of Hard Drive space with both of them.

And I know that SATA transfers Data faster then IDE.

What I don't understand is if I have an IDE USB Drive or I have aSATA USB Drive they both have to send Data to the computer through the USB Cable.

So even if the SATA Drive will have a faster transfer rate when the Data is leaves the Drive it can only go to the computer as fast as the SBU 2.0 connection RIGHT??

If this is true then I can have an IDE USB Drive and they will STILL be a fast please helpOk I need some help understanding what is going on?

I just foundout that SATA 1. Transfer Rate is 1 . 5 Gbps and SATA 2 Transfer Rate is 3 . 0 Gbps.

And the External Enclosure I am looking at has a Tranfer Rate of 480 Mbps and it connects to the computer USB 2.0 and USB Transfer Rate is 400 Mbps.

Now what I need to know is the Enclosure take SATA 1. and 2. so dose SATA 1. realy transfer data at 1 . 5 Gbps that is realy a LOT???

If so if I ran a SATA 1. drive and it only tranfer through the USB cable the USB only tranfers data at 400 Mbps. I would be lossing a lot of speed what am I not understanding or getting? Save cash and the hassle buy a flash drive.Quote from: nymph4 on July 15, 2008, 10:44:03 AM

So even if the SATA Drive will have a faster transfer rate when the Data is leaves the Drive it can only go to the computer as fast as the SBU 2.0 connection RIGHT??

If this is true then I can have an IDE USB Drive and they will still be a fast please help

Save cash and the hassle buy a flash drive.

I think I have it they say SATA Tranfer Rates is 3.0 Gbps but out of that only 300 MBps is halding are Data that we are Transfering RIGHT???

So every Second SATA Transfers 3 Gbp
But 8 Bytes out of every Second is for the Over Head and not for us RIGHT???

And if IDE Drives are 133 MBps and SATA is 300 MBps SATA is still faster RIGHT???

Do I have all three of these right

Data can only go as fast a the device talks to the motherboard so if it talks to the board at 3 Gbps then it Transfers Data 3 Gbps?

If I don't have it I will still do more reading

Ok I think I have it the SATA interface can go 3 Gbps but the Hard Drive can not Tranfer Data that fast.

So how can they Advertize 3 Gbps when it will not go that fast it will not Transfer Data that fast?

I have an HP Pavilion a1310 desktop with a DVD+- writer/cd-writer. Whenever I put in a program on a DVD-ROM my drive will not recognise there is a disk in the drive. What can I do to fix this?Not sure but, if it is a DVD Writer, it should be able to read DVD's right?

Drmondo, does the DVD work on another computer?

Also, what Operating System?I have Windows XP. The movie DVD's work on my DVD player. I can't get DVD-ROM or movie DVDS to read on my computer, though. It acts like its just a CD ROM drive, even though it SHOWS up on My Computer as a DVD/CD drive. DLoad and install VLC media player and see if it plays them...if it does you are missing some codecs for WMP...

Did i mention VLC is FREE ? ?

VLC didn't work. Error came up as "unable to recognize drive e:". The problem isn't that it won't read movies. It's that it won't read any DVDs. None of the bought programs on DVD-ROMs will read. DVD movies won't read. Its as if my DVD writer thinks its only a CD writer. I uninstalled the drive then reinstalled it with no effect. The hardware manager says there's nothing wrong with the drive. I've tried updating the drivers with no luck. The device manager tells me they are up to date.Try swapping it into another machine....if the problem still persists then the drive has gone South.

New DVD dual layer BURNERS are about 40 bucks shipped from newegg.com if you're in the States...Try one of these:
1. http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314060
or...
2. http://aumha.org/downloads/cdgone.zip
or...
3. Go to Device Manager, click a "+" sign next to IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers.
You'll see two items:
- ATA Channel0 (or Primary Channel)
- ATA Channel1 (or Secondary Channel)
Right click on each of them, and click Uninstal. Confirm.
Restart Windows. They'll be automatically reinstalled.I've tried these things and it still will not read DVDs. Either movie DVDs or DVD-ROMs. I even took out the drive and replaced it with another and the new drive will not read DVDs. It must be the registry, but the Microsoft link seems to be for a drive that is just not working at all (mine will read CDs but not DVDs) and the second did nothing. Any other IDEAS?Check registry entries from step 1, anyway.
Did you try step 3?
Can you hear DVD spinning? Does the light come on, when you put DVD in?The problem is actually worse now. I removed the DVD drive and put in one that I knew worked. The second one didn't read DVDs either. I took it out and put back in the original (it fit the space better). Now it won't read anything. CDs no longer work now as well as DVDs. I tried uninstalling the primary and secondary IDEs (2 each) then rebooting. That hasn't done anything. I'll look at the Microsoft one again, but I'm ready to throw the whole system against the wall!! I'm pretty sure, you did, but recheck all cables.I ran the microsoft program, but still had no luck. Nothing reads.Go Start>Run, type in:
sfc /scannow
Click OK.
Have Windows CD ready.

If that doesn't help...
Windows REPAIR: http://www.michaelstevenstech.com/XPrepairinstall.htm

My friend is having PROBLEMS with her laptop, a Gateway MX6445 with window media CENTER edition, 1 gig of RAM and an AMD Turion64 processor.

It will turn off after 5-15 minutes whether or not the computer is plugged in.

I told her I would have a look at it. So The first thing I tried was a different power cord. That didn't help which leads me to BELIEVE that she needs a new battery.

Anyway, I was looking around in the BIOS and saw an option for Battery Auto Learning that re calibrates the battery. I have no idea what this is. I mostly have worked on tower computers and am not that well acquainted with laptops or notebooks.

Does anyone know what this battery auto learning is? I thought I might try this but I don't want to MESS anything up. I've searched the web and haven't really found out much so I thought I'd ask yall.
ThanksQuote

It will turn off after 5-15 minutes whether or not the computer is plugged in.

Ok heres my problem, I have run Hmonitor, speedfan and a couple of other programs that test voltage for the +3v, +5v and +12v. All are good exept one. The +12v is reading on every test an average of +4.33v-4.88v.
So far I have replaced the psu, reformated the harddrive, replaced the harddrive, connected and unconnected the wiring, replaced all the cables and sata cords, all fans are running well and even unplugged them. Unplugged all the cdrom drives and usb connections to the motherboard.

I have run the following tests, ram test, harddrive tester, complete virus SCANS, REGISTRY cleaners. Nothing has come up. I also have a premade store bought computer from hp and hence the voltages inside the bios cannot be modified.

It wouldnt necessarily be a problem as the computer doesn't lock up but hickups from time to time being a amd dual core chip. However when I play any game now, my processor usage always runs near 100PERCENT, and it never used to before.

Only thing I can think of is even though its a rare problem, maybe one of the connection pins inside the motherboard is bad. I am going to run a multimeter on some of the plugs tonight.

The only other thing I can mention is yesterday just checking around the specs, my processor was reading at 900mhz when its supposed to be at 2200mhz. After a minute it went back to normal but that seemed strange to me. I cannot overclock or underclock my cpu as the bios is the phoenix ones where you cant modify them. Any kind of info would be greatly appreciated. Remember to keep in mind I have replaced everything except the cpu and the motherboard itself. Everything else has been replaced or taken out.

Motherboard Name: MS-7184
HP/Compaq motherboard name: AmethystM-GL6E
Athlon 64 X2 (T) 4200+ 2.2 GHz
2000 MT/s Socket 939
3gigs Ram
8600 gt 512mb
There is clearly a problem with the voltage sensor - your drives and fans won't work at 4 - 5 volts.

EDIT: Post back with your multimeter readings.

Hi all,

I have a Sony TZ21WN with a 100Gb internal 1.8" hard disk. I want to upgrade it to a larger hard disk, but I believe that 1.8" hard disks don't come in larger capacities than 160Gb.
The TZ21WN does come with a larger hard disk, but with those MODELS, they have a 64 Gb solid state internal hard disk, and the DVD drive is replaced by a 320Gb 2.5" drive. I'm presuming that Sony make some kind of DVD-2.5" HDD adapter - does anyone KNOW if this is the case, and where I MIGHT be able to get HOLD of such a THING??

Cheers
Nick

I have a Windows XP Pro, SP3, Dell desktop , only put in a fresh windows install about 2 months ago, all of a sudden it freezes after its booted up....
Didnt install anything new, this is just out of the blue....
Dont get any warning during boot up....
I have tried to run a chkdsk but when I go to type the command in 'run' it freezes EVERY time....
Same thing with the chkdsk when its in safe mode.....
I tried a system restore, but was only able to go back to yesterday, and that didnt help....
I have tried to disable as many programs as I can from running on start up, but its not helping....
I dont think its a virus PROBLEM, just ran SAS the day before, but to be sure I'm running it now in safe mode.....
Any SUGGESTIONS? I have quite a few files that arent backed up, as I was waiting to get an external hard-drive....Trying running a check disc on boot up of windows , go to my computer , right click your Main drive , click tools , then you will see error checking , tick the correct boxs , and reboot , it will run the check for you then .

If that doesnt work , pop your xp disc in your machine , and run a check disk from there.

Rex. I tried right clicking on my c drive, there is no option to choose either tools or error checking....heat or cpuOn the bright side, I'm able to back up my important stuff in safe mode on to my laptop, using a program called Gene Link, doing that now, but the major problem remains....Turn it off. Open the case. Clean it out with compressed air.
Reseat RAM. Same for the video card (is it on-board, or separate one)?
We'll go from there.Quote from: BRONI on August 10, 2008, 07:04:36 PM

Turn it off. Open the case. Clean it out with compressed air.
Reseat RAM. Same for the video card (is it on-board, or separate one)?
We'll go from there.

Hi all,
I RECENTLY bought a used Mitsubishi 2070 22in. CRT monitor for graphic DESIGN work. While it has excellent clarity for text and images there is an annoying pincushion distortion at the top of the screen. In the OSM panel there is a control for In/Out (side to side) distortion but not from the top down. Is it possible to correct this? Help greatly appreciated!Did you try it with another computer?
Is it new monitor, or used one?Quote from: Broni on August 16, 2008, 09:39:44 PM

Did you try it with another computer?
Is it new monitor, or used one?

I recently bought a used Mitsubishi 2070 22in. CRT monitor

Geometrically, however, a very slight pin-cushion distortion existed in the top corners that couldn't be corrected.

Quote from: ArtSiren on August 04, 2008, 08:07:11 AM

So I guess that's it! Dead drive, needs replacing. Presumably I'll need to replace with an identical (but not broken!) Hitachi Deskstar?

I've checked the psu connectors and the power to hard drive is via a black plug (with COMAX punched on it, and the 5 wires I mentioned previously) - directly from the psu.

and so I'll need the 4-wire (white transparent) connector to SATA 2?

Hi everyone,

My wife and I purchased identical toshiba a75 laptops about 3 yrs ago, last week hers decided to "stop starting".... when PRESSING the power BUTTON sometimes it will turn on and start to boot for anywhere from 2 seconds to 15 or so seconds then just shut off. I'm aware of the power jack problems, so I took it apart and did the power jack replacement, ..... STILL the same problem. because I have two identical laptops I was able to swap the memory and processor,.... still the same problem. I believe it is something on the motherboard because I physically have the motherboard out, no modem card, no wifi card, I hook up the battery and..... yup same THING, it will start only for a few seconds as stated above. has anyone seen this before or possibly have a idea of what could be wrong? I know there is additional ram on the board, could this be the problem? I'm REALLY at a loss on how to further identify the problem, any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

thanks,

joe

Persario computers 7000 HDD problem , won't boot , light turns orange !!

Bought 9/2000 runs win98 se

Started a week ago won't boot ( Green lights steady ) until trying many times,.
Then after opening the cpu couldn't find any thing loose!
After disconnecting and connecting power plug from the HDd the PC don't boot and the hdd light is steady orange ! Does that means the hdd is not GOOD any more?!
Is there any trick i can do!um if nothing on displays on the screen at all no workds or anything its the moniter or video card try a different moniter or video card and see if that helpsI don't think it's the monitor cuz the PC should boot w/ o it . Right?! well the computer is probably booting the video card or moniter just isnt working so you cant see it if it was the hard drive there still would be the bios ANS stuffYa i just had this problem it could be a few things.
First try the monitor cables and monitor
Second try the ram re seat or switch out
Third video card
Forth cpu
finally your mobo
The mobo is what happened to mine but nothing unexpected with the emachine.How i test the CPU ! What is mobo!!! How i test all that to know what 's wrong? before i buy new PC.
ok first try to get a different moniter/cable and try if it still doesnt work try a different video cardMOBO is your mother board and as for testing these 2 mobo and cpu you just need to switch them out. but based on what you have posted here i probably wouldn't try any of that unless you are comfortable with pulling everything apart.i did some reading it could also be your power supply.Other than buying these parts one at a time and installing them i haven't found anything that can help you. I f i was you i would buy a new computer yours is a bit out of date anyways is it not. Any way sorry i couldn't help a bit more good luck.no all you need is another moniter or a video card you can get another video card cheap and another moniter pretty cheap too
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814136007 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161011< if you only have pci and another moniter you could buy used very cheap somewhere Ok , i bought v card installed . when the pc logs to the win it reboots again.
Then it gave his error " EMM386 has detected error #n9 in an application at memeory address 00B8:1628.TO MINIMIZE THE CHANCE OF DATA LOSS. EMM386 HAS HALTED UR PC .

AND SOME TIMES EMM386 NOT INSTALLED - UNABLE TO SET PAGE FRAME BASE ADDRESS.
THEN WHEN I PRESS ANY KEY , IT READS IT AND SAY
EMM386 SUCCESSFULLY INSTALLED
EXPANDED MEM SERVICE UNAVILABLE

TOTAL UPPER MEM AVAILABLE 74KB
LARGEST UPPER MEM BLOCK 42 KB
UPPER MEM STARTING ADDRESS D000 H

EMM386 ACTIVE

WHAT ALL THAT MEANS ?? ISIT THE V CARD OR NOT OR THE NEW V CARD IS NOT COMPATABLE OR WHAT ?? OR IT MY MEMORY THATS MAKING ALL THE PROBLEMS FROM THE BEGGINING ??

should i but back my old v card or what ??One more thing, when i am able to log on on safe mode the i run CMD THEN WRITE mem
i get reading mem like that

conve. 636
upper 0 0 0 all are zeros ( total, used, free)
reserved zeros too 0 0 0
extended ( xms) 65486 kb , used ? , free 129824 kb
total memory 66104, used ?, free 130421 kb


largest free upper mem block 0 k ( 0 bytes)
!!!so your getting a picture now at least?Still i can't boot the windows or work on the PC !! Don't know what to do next ! Should i gave up and buy a new one ? Or there are still SOLUTIONS!reformat?

i have an asus striker 680i and im tyring to build my own computer, i put everything together and i just get a blank screen i need to know if the RAM could be a problem and what ram i should be havingFirst of all, what are the rest of the specs for the system you put together?

The mobo you have supports Dual-channel DDR2 800/667/533Mhz RAM.

What to do in the meantime is take everything out except GFX, CPU & RAM (If you have more than one stick of RAM, try it with one stick at a time)also have intel 3ghz duo and 2 1tb western digital internal hard drives 1 200gb and ati all in WONDER graphics card 600w power supply i tried switching the rams still doesnt workSounds like you need to re-read your motherboard book.
With a new build, it is easy to overlook something.

Do the fans spin?
Is the power supply switch turned on?
Which type of RAM are you using?

Have you tested the PSU with a known working OSU (of greater or equal wattage) or another known working RAM stick that is compatible with your board?thanks alot everyone i got it up and running im pretty sure one of the rams were defective im so happy THANKS GUYSDownload and run Memtest86. You'll need to make a CD

Boot from the CD and TEST one RAM module at a time for at least 2 HOURS. (Longer is better up to 7 passes.) If both modules pass individually (have no errors), test the system with both modules in for at least 4 hours. ANY error means defective RAM.

http://memtest.org/

Best of luck.

i have a AIRLINK Super G Wireless ROUTER
and the card for my other computer
now the airlink Super G Wireless Router
does not work any more but i want to see if i can get a different
router so can i keep the same card that i use for my airlink Super G Wireless Router
and get a different ONE?any 802.11G router should WORKSO i got the Linksys Wireless-G Broadband Router WRT54GL
will it work for the airlink card i have on the other computerIt should, usually brands will not MATTER on a wireless network....

i have two pcs none of which have wi fi. i have a broadband connection on one pc and i wish to create a newtork to the other to access the broadband.

i am thinking that maybe i can get two usb bloothtooth adapters and create a wireless network within my house one pc downstairs the other upstairs.

is this feasable or what should i do. WELCOME any suggestions

thanks.
tadhgmorrisSounds possible but i'm no expert.

i have heard that one limitation that may COME into play is the distance between BT devices. With wifi you can measure the distance from one device to another in 100's or even 1000+ feet. But my understanding of BT is that your sub 100 and i think walls and other obstruction can compromise the quality of the connection.

All of that said, if there is such a device made for computers to USE in that way then why would it not work with-in the limitation of the technology itself.

It makes me wonder about the process of inventing things. If PROGRAMS for computers start with an idea i wonder if it's not possible to have a thread here where idea's can be introduced to code writer's and hacks
( they're code writers in a sense aren't they? }
Oh no!!!!! i think i opened up a can of worms...... Blue tooth is 30 ft. You can use USB wifi adapters to accomplish the same thing.This is an exercise in futility...

Although it yes can be done the cost and limitations compared to a wireless setup don't MAKE it worthwhile...

okay i just got the new GeForce 9800 GTX+ 512mb, and every time i start the computer it tells me that it detects insufficent power input (not sure if its voltage or wattage it needs) i also have a pentium 4 3GhZ, 3GB RAM (2 sticks) 2 dvd drives one supports light scribe, some GREEN LED strips, and 2 fans (one of the fans is also LED) My power supply is 12 amps, 470W max. the box from the card says i need 475W PCI Express compliant power supply, with combined 12V current rating of 26A or more. Can i get a power supply that will fully support my setup, which one would you recommend, and can i stay under $70? or any other tips regarding this are welcomeYou could get one under 70 dollars but it might not quite have enough power I would recommend a 500-550 Watt PSU.
go to www.newegg.com they have a wide range of power supplies at a good price.Don't cut coners on a PSU - 12V at 26A will I think require at very least a supply well over 500W ........... go browse at the Antec.com site and see what is there - and then, newegg.com or techforless.com to see what is available for what price. Don't buy too cheap - it may not be worth it.

Thirsty graphics cards are biggest reason usually for a need to upgrade PSU - and I'd reckon you should go up to even 650W region - have some power in hand.Dont get cheap on your power supply it's one of the most important components of your machine. Have you ever visited http://www.pricewatch.com/ for your computer parts?antec, pc power and cooling, and crucial are all very good i would recommend getting OVER 500watts becuase the miminum is 475 and you want over thatall right then, i settled for the OCX 600W SLI psu ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341001 ) my current PSU isnt even SLI compatoble. also another question, on the video card, there are 2 power slots, does that mean it requires 2 power cbles running to it? Im broke after the video card as well, it will be maybe a week of straight savings untill i can buy the 600W SLI psu, is it safe to operate the computer they way it is right now? Also the found new hardware wizard keeps popping up and asking me to install the video card, i DID install the drivers from the CD, and they ARE working, so what can i do about that, pressing cancel upon every STARTUP is annoyingum well its a big chance cause the psu could blow it might take some things with it so its a big riskQuote from: computeruler on AUGUST 19, 2008, 07:08:27 PM

um well its a big chance cause the psu could blow it might take some things with it so its a big risk

hey people ive got a question. there is nothing wrong with my modem i just need some help being able to do something with it.

My modem (cable, optusnet) is hooked up to a router which operates most of the day. when the modem is turned off then im unable to use internet (that sounded stupid), i want to be able to turn on modem using a computer located upstairs in my house. people have told me its able to be done, but non of them know how to do it.

basically i want to be able to turn on a modem wirelessly from my bedroom, my parents turn it off and lock the door leading to it (LOL), is there any way to turn the modem on to be either on continously, even when the lights are not turned on (to give the impression that it is off when really it is constantly on), or is there a way to use command prompt or such to turn it on using a certain command. some kid told me to use a keylogger and change something to do with it but that couldnt be right since keyloggers store typed data. is there any way that it can be done.
Thanks for the help.

my router has got a password on it, i created it so i can access the settings of it using the disk that came with it, but im not sure how i could use it to turn on a modem. if it can be done please post if not ill consider opening the modem up and soldering in a component to bypass the switch.

any help is good help, thanks

i use windows xp home edition on all my computers
it is a netgear router
the modem is a Motorola modemDeep breath...

1. I am sure that it is against the policy of this forum to give help to those who wish to bypass or nullify restrictions placed upon them by system administrators, teachers, managers, IT staff, etc. This includes parents!

2. Your desires to operate the modem without any lights showing and/or secretly bypass the switch demonstrate craftiness and a certain level of deceitful intent. This is distasteful. If you do this sort of thing habitually you may well get in trouble with the police one day. You know that what you wish to do is wrong and disobedient. Maybe you should work at being more honest and less devious, so that your parents come to trust you more and allow you more privileges.

3. Your parents have decided to do what they have done for a reason. Maybe there is a download cap on the cable account, and you have been costing them extra money, or maybe the restriction is a punishment for something you have done, or maybe they do not wish you to sit up all night surfing the web when you have school work to do and then need to sleep . Whatever, it sounds like they know you pretty well!

4. If a cable modem is turned off, the only way to activate it again is by physically being present, especially if the AC power is turned off or the DC power connector is unplugged.

5. I suspect that the modem is not your property. If it belongs to the cable company, using a soldering iron on it may well breach your service agreement. If it belongs to your parents, you do not have the right to do this.





Dias is absolutely right. These restrictions are in place for a reason.

Quote

If a cable modem is turned off, the only way to activate it again is by physically being present, especially if the AC power is turned off

However, they can get expensive and surely won't go unnoticed.

this is a tad gay

i am the computer administrator. i basically set up all the stuff for it and your telling me its wrong, 1 the internet is half mine i pay for half of it meaning half the modem is mine, meaning im modifying my half of the modem lights and switch, 2 i get enough study in and 3 come on tbh this is a tad gay ill just open it and wire it myself. thanks for everything

Have HP Pavilion 6300, Windows 98. Everything FINE, one day monitor does not display anything. I thought monitor was bad and replaced it. This monitor did not display either. each time either monitor was turned on I could hear it start to power up then a distinctive "click" and it stopped powering(power "on" light was still on.
Got third monitor and powered up. Worked fine for about 2 hours then same thing ,no display. Unhooked the monitor from computer and turn power on. Get red -green and blue display box with " check signal cable". Could this be a power supply problem ? Any suggestionsI'd change the video card and see what happens, if a power supply the computer shouldnt boot completely.

Are these CRT monitors or LCD monitors?They are ,where CRT.It is possible that the power SOCKET you plug the monitor in isn't working.

Can you try another monitor in an other socket?Make sure your video card is plugged in. Quote from: Annon on August 29, 2008, 04:25:06 AM

Make sure your video card is plugged in.

But I just want him to try unplugging it and then replugging it first.

I'm looking to get another hard drive for my computer. How can I figure out which type my PC uses? SATA, SATA II, and I think there's another type? Or are they pretty MUCH universal? An internal drive is what I'm looking for, by the way. If it helps at all, here's my specs:

Intel Core2 Duo E6750
ASUS P5N-e SLI mobo (I don't use the SLI feature though)
GeForce 9600 GT
2GB system ramHere are the specs for your motherboard...

http://www.asus.com/products.aspx?l1=3&l2=11&l3=473&model=1474&modelmenu=1

It would seem...your computer's motherboard will accept SATA drives.copyjust an ADDED note, some SATA harddrives come with jumpers to change the transfer rate from 1.5Gb/s (older SATA motherboards transfer speed) to 3.0Gb/s (newer SATA motherboards transfer speed). since your motherboard is able to support SATA devices @ 3.0Gb/s, you are GOING to have to check that your harddrive is set to run @ 3.0Gb/s.

P.S. just ignore the whole SATA/SATA2 thing.Okay, so basically as long as I have the proper cables I should be able to use either IDE or SATA?

Thanks for the quick REPLIES, I appreciate it!Correct.
Your MBoard will support up to 4 IDE drives ( HDD or Optical ) and up to 5 SATA drives...

I just finished a build with the P5N board which is similar but only has 1 IDE channel so it limits me to 2 IDE drives without an add-on card.

Good Luck.

How do i know if a graphic card would work with my computer. I look at the requirements on the page say for the computer to have but i dont know what half of it is I guess first thing is to CHECK if you have an AGP slot on MOBO (usually top one and brown) - which would give you options for that type of card. Then check if you have PCI or PCI express slots (white ones) in case you use a PCI card.

Then there is op system compatibility - which should be mentioned with a card's specs.

Need also to know what your PSU rating is as often necessary to upgrade that to higher power unit.

Probably also worth CHECKING on card output - whether VGA connection for cable or a DVI - and whether your MONITOR will suit. etc. There's more but this is a start.

Hello,

I have a desktop computer which I REPLACED with a laptop. The desktop had a 500gb SATA disk which had one primary partition (system) and one extended partition divided into several logical DRIVES. I dual-booted Vista and Linux Ubuntu.

Now the 500gb SATA disk is connected as an external HDD (inside an eSATA box) to my laptop.

I want to have the 500gb disk contain only one storage partition and nothing else. I have already moved most of the files I want to keep to one of the logical drives I had on the extended partition. USING Vista Disk Management on the laptop, I have deleted the primary partition of the external disk as well as all except two of the logical drives, including the Ubuntu partitions. (One of the remaining logical drives has stuff I want to keep but doesn't fit to the other logical drive, which is why I haven't yet deleted it.)

Here is a picture of what it looks like in Disk Management:

In the picture, Disks 0 and 1 are inside the laptop and were preconfigured as shown in the pic. Disk 2 is the 500gb external disk.

Now, if I try to use Disk Management to extend the logical drive (J:) to contain all the space available, first I get a notice SAYING that the selected basic disk will be converted to a dynamic disk. Now I don't know why it would be converted to a dynamic disk, but when click "Yes" upon being asked whether I'm sure I want to continue, I get this error message:

Disk Management says:
Quote

The attempted operation is invalid. Either the parameters specified are invalid or the operation cannot be completed on the selected object. Refer to Disk Management help for assistance on to correct use of the attempted operation.

I got that it couldnt find my hard drive on my dell dimension 4100 an so with the power off I changed the power cables around. Know it wont SHOW any life at all I tried a differnt pc in the spot an it works an so does the HD. I have a MULTIMETER but dont remember how to test the power.Quote

I changed the power cables around.

Hi everyone,
I am having an issue with my desktop. If I shut it down, when I push the power BUTTON to turn it back on it may or may not turn back on. There is a red light on my mobo that flickers then eventually holds steady and the led display on my mobo will reset every time i push the power button. Also my ram has lights on it that show usage and those will also flicker on and off when it is in non start mode.

If I toggle the switch on my PSU a few times eventually I can get it to start but it has been turning off completely after a while. I removed 3 of the 4 STICKS of ram in my pc and it seems to now start and run fine. As soon as I add in a second stick of ram in the third slot, it goes back to the same symptoms.

I am using a 500W PSU and a Abit IP35 Pro Mobo. My ram is Corsair XMS2-6400 ram. I have 4 1gb sticks. Thanks for taking the time to read this stuff guys.Borrow a known working PSU of the same wattage or greater and swap it in there overnite to see if this is the issue...

Check at crucial.com to see if the new RAM is compatible with your board and what you have in there already...

DLoad and run MEMTEST on those RAM sticks...any errors at all and you have a bad stick of RAM...Bought a new Corsair 1000 Watt PSU and its running great now. Only one problem left but I a going to search on that before starting a new thread. Thanks!Congrats ! !

The only reason i suggest borrowing one is to DETERMINE if it is really the issue before plopping down hard earned cash ahead of time...
Glad it worked out in your case and Welcome Aboard !

I fixed the problem. I REMOVED the power supply and found where a diode or resistor arched out. So I WENT to BEST BUY and bought a new one. Installed and presto my computer is up and running. Thanks everyone for the input.Strange.....I wonder how that happened.

Glad you GOT it working though.Congratulations!

Can someone also help me please...i have WINDOWS Xp and recently it has been running slow so i tried to do and full sweep using the recovery Cd for windows Xp but it never works.whenever i try to do a partial or full wipe on my
computer while using the system recovery Cd my computer always gets
stuck on the third step"copying files" while doing that the error
message always appears "can not open H:\preload\data.inp:1392


thanks in advance for your help Are you using an authentic Windows XP CD?

Also, what exactly are you trying to do?i'm trying to reset my computer to the setting from when it was first shiped out from the wearhouse. i'm using the from a box i got to UPGRADE you windows Xp to windows Xp profressional(it HELPS with bussiness stuff)


thanks in advance for your helpNot sure but I don't think you can reinstall Windows XP with an Upgrade Disc.

Can you confirm what you disc you have?

Also, what are the steps you have performed so far?the DISK i'm using is to restart the computer , to do a full sweep i don't think it has ANYTHING to do with the upgrade. the steps it has already completed are
1.Slecting Recovery Option
2.Hard Disk Prepartion
3.Copying Files4.Changing CD-rom
5.Finalizing Recovery

The Cd is Called

"microsoft windows Xp Home Edition"
_______________________________________ ___
SYSTEM RECOVERY CD/DVD



Thanks in advance for your helpTry to clean CD, and CD drive lenses.

I have an HP desktop that I'd like to switch from PS/2 to USB wireless keyboard. It WILL NOT boot if it doesn't find a ps/2 keyboard. I can install BOTH keyboards and the USB will work, but if I attempt booting with the USB only, it will not boot.

Suggestions? It doesn't boot? Any error messages?

What if you remove all keyboards and try to boot?It FUNCTIONS normally with a ps/2 keyboard or with both of them ATTACHED. When both are attached, both of them function as expected. It just won't boot with a usb attached. When booted with a usb, immediately after the Windows screen, the BSOD is generated because it is searching for a ps/2 and none is found. We have not found a way to prevent the search or load of the ps/2 driver.Hmmmm....I would think it is something to do in the BIOS but I'm not sure.

I would wait until another member comes along and SEE what they conjure up.Carbon is right. You need to go to BIOS, and enable USB keyboard support.Why the switch from PS2 to USB ? ?

The rule of thumb is to use PS2 if it's available...You're right, patio, but what about OP strange problem?Quote from: Broni on August 19, 2008, 06:56:18 PM

You're right, patio, but what about OP strange problem?

I signed up with a provider and now I want to change providers. Do I need to buy a new wireless or otherwise router or can I use my D-Link DSL-G 604T with any provider?I think you have to ask your new provider and ask them. They should KNOW, though HOPEFULLY that doesn't mean having to listen to "Your call is important to us, please hold the line." one hundred and seventy TIMES before you get an answer.

But I would just call them anyway and ask.

-- dairymanThanks Dairyman, I did just that and the "expert" said "well it should be Ok, I think!"
Hmmmm.!!!
The general concensus seems to be, mine is OK. Other brands may have different features, that WORK better or WORSE with the providers systems. eg V.O.I.P.No problem.

I want to run a second monitor from my laptop. I set it up as per the instruction book and it seems to work. I can move icons on to it but when I open one of these it opens on my laptop screen but not on the second one. If the laptop is left I get very good slideshows on the second screen that's why I think I have almost go it. What I want is a better screen to work with thats why I want the second one to work the way I want it. Should I be able to do this or not? I Toshiba laptop running XPNot familiar with your options on that laptop but - I run dual mon's and with my Nvidia 1700 have a control panel from which I can SELECT dual out - and which screen is #1 and which is #2 ..... plus there is also an option within DESKTOP/properties/settings.

When setting it all up I had to fiddle between both sets of options to finish up with what I wanted. In your case - what do you see in desktop/properties/settings? Are there two options showing? Plus too - is there a control panel for your graphics?On my Display Properties Panel I have 5 Tabs Themes,Desktop,Screen Saver,Appearence and settings. Under Settings I have a panel showing two monitors which I can move about as I wish. This seems to work fine untill I try and MAKE the second one my primary display It then goes BLANK and shuts down. There is also a drop down panel showing that I have plug and play monitors on Mobile Intel(R) 945GM Express Chipset family. This shows that I seem to have two of these. TYhere is also a colour quality panel.Ahh OK - so you are SEEING two options in settings. That should normally be enough to gain control.

I still can't help wondering tho if there is some sorta control panel for the graphics hardware too ..... if not then not sure how you can avoid the problem of #2 going blank when you want it as primary.

Maybe - long shot - check properties in Device manager for the graphics - see if there are any options showing up or not. Out of ideas for now.

Thanks for your help. Twas graphics related. All fine now. Cheers

Looking for RESIDENTIAL ONLINE backup service company recommendations. Is anyone using Mozy or X-Drive? If so, I'd appreciate your thoughts as to ease of using the service.
Thanks. Any particular reason, you want to back up on line?Don't trust them...
Costly...

Try Acronis True Image.
You won't be dissappointed.Want to backup online as an additional safety precaution for CRASHING COMPUTER hard drives and failing external hard drives. Another problem with on-line back ups is, that they're not as safe as your LIVING room.
Also, if the site goes out of business, so does your data.I'm looking for assistance from those who have experience with online backup service. Actually the services aren't cost prohibitive at all.

I have some diskettes that have data and programs from an old HP150.
Is there anything other than an HP150 disk drive that can read the data from them?
I have a few computers ranging from Windows XP to whatever dos version from 1993 and neither of them will read the DISKS.Are the diskettes write protected?They appear not to be write-protected.Read this:

http://fixunix.com/hewlett-packard/102279-old-hp150-read-diskettes-problem.htmlThat's close but not quite the problem. My problem is that my PC, even in DOS mode doesn't recoginze the diskette at all. When I try the command "dir", it beeps and prints nonsensical characters.

I think the disks may have a FAT-12 file system or a FAT-16. Do I need a special driver to view the data on my Windows XP?This is the error message I get:

"The volume does not contain a recognized file system.
Please make sure that all required file system drivers are loaded and that the v
olume is not corrupted."It looks like DOS used on that computer was not real MS-DOS, and this may be your problem...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HP-150
Quote

The HP-150, a "compact, powerful and innovative" computer made by Hewlett-Packard in 1983 and based on the Intel 8088, was one of the world's earliest commercialized touch screen computers. The machine was not IBM PC compatible, although it was MS-DOS compatible. Customized MS-DOS VERSIONS 2.01, 2.11 and 3.20 were available.

I have laptop HP Pavillion zv5240us, it's running XP sp2

While still under warranty through Best Buy, the charger, the battery and the plug where the charger goes into the computer were replaced. The replacement charger and battery were generic.

Now that it's not under warranty, I thought the charger was messed up again; so I stopped USING the laptop for a couple of months, there was only about 15% charge when I stopped using it and it was stored w/ the battery still inside.

Last week I just ordered new OEM battery and charger through eBay.

The charger got delivered before the battery did so I tried out the new charger.
I plugged it in and turned on the laptop, it turned on but then died out right after logging in. After trying again and the same thing occurring I realized that the battery was only charging when the laptop was turned off, then when I turned it on, there would be no simultaneous charge or use of the charger, so it ran on whatever little bit left on the battery before turning off again.

I also noticed that WHENEVER the battery was charging instead of the charge light being CONTINUOUSLY on like it always was in the past, it was instead flashing and every time it flashed there would be a zapping/buzz sound coming from the battery. So I stopped trying to charge.

Today the new battery got here.
I plugged it in and let it charge for about 40 mins [there was no buzzing/zapping sounds and the light lit up continuously] then turned on the laptop while still plugged in. Again, once I turned it on, the charge light went off so it stopped charging and ran only on battery. Then I got a message saying that his was the wrong kind of battery for the laptop and could cause the system to under perform and I should remove it, there was no "Ok" or "Cancel" or any other choice; so I just turned it off and removed the battery. The battery LOOKS identical to the one I first got when I got the laptop and it fits properly.

Then I have put back the previous generic battery and it seems to be charging w/out flashing and buzzing at times. After I let it charge about 1hr, I decided to turn on the laptop only to find that there battery indicator says there's only 9% charge but in less than a minute it dropped to 7%. I just set it to hibernate.

The plug is kind of loose right now but if you place the charger where it doesn't move it's fine so I don't REALLY think it's that and that had happened in the past and I was able to get by w/ just setting the charge cable in the right position and not moving it.

I don't know what to do w/ the laptop. I thought it was a faulty charger and replaced it but that doesn't seem to work. I'm sorry for the long entry but I just wanted to be detailed. Any ideas or help is greatly appreciated. Let me know if you need any more information or pictures of the battery/charger.

Thanks!I.M.H.O. Ive considered your problem and it seems to me that all your problems have originated from the incidence of the replacement of the battery charger and the connection at the computer casing.
From what you have described in your entry, the problem is within your computer.

My best guess would be that the computer, from manufacture had a problem with the charge/power circuitry that remained undetected at the time of the replacement of the charger port. Id say that the battery replacement and port access module were not at fault, but a result of the problem within.
The additional problems all remain after the fact and are a result of the original undetected problem within the confines of the circuits of the computer.
A dry solder joint, a loose connection at the casing a blown diode or transistor within the original manufacture of the product, any number of possibilities exist. Electronic Zapping sounds while charging dont usually occur to a product that is made to intricate specifications

I would go so far as to say that you should get all your data from the hard drive and dig up your original receipt of purchase and enter into negotiations with the supplier for a replacement of the unit. Most countries have consumer protection for faulty product purchases. Perhaps you could get HP to investigate your problem and offer a solution.
In approaching HP however I would not be overly zealous in telling them you purchased anything but Original equipment from a recognized certified supplier.Id have to go to with what Imnoguru said...my moms laptop had the same situation and my father opened it up and found out that the connector for the laptop had a cold solder joint, my dad just re solder it and it worked just fine! so my best bet would be to re solder that connector.