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Hi Folks
While on line my monitor went black,figured I bumped the switch (not) had to UNPLUG every thing, rebooted and now my screen is PINK, is it TOAST ? can it be repaired ?
BEST Victor

Monitor- dell led ? or
Computer HP windows 8
6gb memory
500gb hard drive
Is the screen solid pink, or just tinged pink? Check your cables and reseat them again, it could be either the monitor, video card, cable, or just a loose connection. Do you have another computer you could TRY the monitor on? Thanks. It was the monitor !!Well, at least you now know the problem, shame it was a physical issue and not just a cable though.
Glad it's sorted!

I recently updated my iphone5 with the ios udpate. I have a DELL computer. I ended the download prematurely (though apparently it did complete). However, it has been a month, and my computer CONTINUES to make the up/down noise that you get when you are processing an update from itunes. I took the computer and phone to the apple store...there is nothing wrong with my phone, and we deleted all downloads from all of my web BROWSERS, but the sounds KEEP on coming. It's driving me nuts.

Any IDEA how to fix?

Well, this HAPPENED before. I'm not sure, but it might be a virus related problem.
Whenever I plug my headphones in (yes, I plug them into the correct socket, the green one) it SHOWS me that it is plugged in but I can't hear anything! Otherwise, they work.
What SHALL I do?Do other headphones or speakers work from the green socket? Is this a front or rear port?Yes, only one does, but the other ones don't.OK, so the socket does work with another set of headphones? Is this a front or rear port?

Hey Dave. What do you think about SWAPPING the SATA cable and ports? Or maybe removing the CMOS battery in case of a bad MB setting? Maybe I'm just being delusional, but I really feel like this hard drive could still be fixed.

I'll definitely check out Western Digital's data recovery service. I checked out some others and the prices seemed pretty insane. I have 99% of the data backed up on an external hard drive, so I might just chalk it up as a loss depending on the PRICE.

I also know DELL is sending a guy to install a new hard drive on Tuesday, so if worst comes to worst it will be resolved in that manner. But I'd like to try and fix it before he gets here, since I believe he will just replace it, rather than fix it. Try it in an enclosure...or hooked up as a slave in a working PC...those are your 2 choices before you run outta time here...Hey Patio, I'm going to try the Thermaltake Max 5 Drive tonight.

I also BOOTED Ubuntu from a USB and when I shut down this appeared...

ANYONE have any thoughts on this attachment?


[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]Installed a new hard drive, so the computer is back to normal.

I also put the old hard drive in an external enclosure and it didn't show up on EITHER computer I tried it on. I plugged it into the back USB ports and still got nothing on either one.

So I assume data recovery is the next step?
Quote from: screen_name on June 05, 2013, 07:19:38 AM

...So I assume data recovery is the next step?

...I'll definitely check out Western Digital's data recovery service. I checked out some others and the prices seemed pretty insane. I have 99% of the data backed up on an external hard drive, so I might just chalk it up as a loss depending on the price...

Quote from: Calum on June 06, 2013, 03:16:15 AM

You can go that route first, or test each component outside the CASE before putting it back in. If everything else is already installed into the case, you'll PROBABLY find it easier to do the former rather than the latter, but either way is perfectly fine.

You can go that route first, or test each component outside the case before putting it back in. If everything else is already installed into the case, you'll probably find it easier to do the former rather than the latter, but either way is perfectly fine.

Hey everyone, I am not sure exactly where to post this so I am going to post it in both hardware and software (please FORGIVE me).

I just upgraded my COMPUTER to:

ATI 7950
AMD FX (tm) - 8350 8-Core Processor
8 GB RAM
Windows 7 64 bit

Also, reformatted and re installed windows. This just started happening after the re-installation of windows.


The problem is that when I am not even using my computer, even at first start up, it is telling me I am using about 1/4 of my ram.

Maybe you guys can help. I will try and provide as much information as possible.

Here is the Hijack this log:

Logfile of Trend Micro HijackThis v2.0.5
Scan saved at 12:02:08 PM, on 6/6/2013
Platform: Windows 7 (WinNT 6.00.3504)
MSIE: Internet Explorer v9.00 (9.00.8112.16483)

FIREFOX: 21.0 (en-US)
Boot mode: Normal

Running processes:
C:\Program Files (x86)\AVG\AVG2013\avgui.exe
C:\Program Files (x86)\Google\Chrome\Application\chrome.exe
C:\Program Files (x86)\Google\Chrome\Application\chrome.exe
C:\Program Files (x86)\Google\Chrome\Application\chrome.exe
C:\Program Files (x86)\Google\Chrome\Application\chrome.exe
C:\Program Files (x86)\Google\Chrome\Application\chrome.exe
C:\Program Files (x86)\Google\Chrome\Application\chrome.exe
C:\Users\Michael\Downloads\HijackThis.exe

R1 - HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Search Page = http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=54896
R0 - HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Start Page = http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=69157
R1 - HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Default_Page_URL = http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=69157
R1 - HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Default_Search_URL = http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=54896
R1 - HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Search Page = http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=54896
R0 - HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Start Page = http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=69157
R0 - HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Search,SearchAssistant =
R0 - HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Search,CustomizeSearch =
R0 - HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Local Page = C:\Windows\SysWOW64\blank.htm
R0 - HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Toolbar,LinksFolderName =
F2 - REG:system.ini: UserInit=userinit.exe
O2 - BHO: AMD SteadyVideo BHO - {6C680BAE-655C-4E3D-8FC4-E6A520C3D928} - C:\Program Files (x86)\amd\SteadyVideo\SteadyVideo.dll
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [AVG_UI] "C:\Program Files (x86)\AVG\AVG2013\avgui.exe" /TRAYONLY
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [StartCCC] "C:\Program Files (x86)\ATI Technologies\ATI.ACE\Core-Static\CLIStart.exe" MSRun
O4 - HKCU\..\Run: [SIDEBAR] C:\Program Files\Windows Sidebar\sidebar.exe /autoRun
O11 - Options group: [ACCELERATED_GRAPHICS] ACCELERATED graphics
O18 - Filter: video/mp4 - {20C75730-7C25-476B-95DC-C65810F9E489} - C:\Program Files (x86)\amd\SteadyVideo\VideoMIMEFilter.dll
O18 - Filter: video/x-flv - {20C75730-7C25-476B-95DC-C65810F9E489} - C:\Program Files (x86)\amd\SteadyVideo\VideoMIMEFilter.dll
O23 - Service: @%SystemRoot%\system32\Alg.exe,-112 (ALG) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\System32\alg.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: AMD External Events Utility - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\system32\atiesrxx.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: AMD FUEL Service - Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. - C:\Program Files\ATI Technologies\ATI.ACE\Fuel\Fuel.Service.exe
O23 - Service: AVGIDSAgent - AVG Technologies CZ, s.r.o. - C:\Program Files (x86)\AVG\AVG2013\avgidsagent.exe
O23 - Service: AVG WatchDog (avgwd) - AVG Technologies CZ, s.r.o. - C:\Program Files (x86)\AVG\AVG2013\avgwdsvc.exe
O23 - Service: BitRaider Mini-Support Service (BRSptSvc) - BitRaider, LLC - C:\ProgramData\BitRaider\BRSptSvc.exe
O23 - Service: @%SystemRoot%\system32\efssvc.dll,-100 (EFS) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\System32\lsass.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%systemroot%\system32\fxsresm.dll,-118 (Fax) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\system32\fxssvc.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: Google Update Service (gupdate) (gupdate) - Google Inc. - C:\Program Files (x86)\Google\Update\GoogleUpdate.exe
O23 - Service: Google Update Service (gupdatem) (gupdatem) - Google Inc. - C:\Program Files (x86)\Google\Update\GoogleUpdate.exe
O23 - Service: @keyiso.dll,-100 (KeyIso) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\system32\lsass.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: Mozilla Maintenance Service (MozillaMaintenance) - Mozilla Foundation - C:\Program Files (x86)\Mozilla Maintenance Service\maintenanceservice.exe
O23 - Service: @comres.dll,-2797 (MSDTC) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\System32\msdtc.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%SystemRoot%\System32\netlogon.dll,-102 (Netlogon) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\system32\lsass.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%systemroot%\system32\psbase.dll,-300 (ProtectedStorage) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\system32\lsass.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%systemroot%\system32\Locator.exe,-2 (RpcLocator) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\system32\locator.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%SystemRoot%\system32\samsrv.dll,-1 (SamSs) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\system32\lsass.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%SystemRoot%\system32\snmptrap.exe,-3 (SNMPTRAP) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\System32\snmptrap.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%systemroot%\system32\spoolsv.exe,-1 (Spooler) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\System32\spoolsv.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%SystemRoot%\system32\sppsvc.exe,-101 (sppsvc) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\system32\sppsvc.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: Steam Client Service - Valve Corporation - C:\Program Files (x86)\Common Files\Steam\SteamService.exe
O23 - Service: @%SystemRoot%\system32\ui0detect.exe,-101 (UI0Detect) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\system32\UI0Detect.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%SystemRoot%\system32\vaultsvc.dll,-1003 (VaultSvc) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\system32\lsass.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%SystemRoot%\system32\vds.exe,-100 (vds) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\System32\vds.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%systemroot%\system32\vssvc.exe,-102 (VSS) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\system32\vssvc.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%SystemRoot%\system32\Wat\WatUX.exe,-601 (WatAdminSvc) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\system32\Wat\WatAdminSvc.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%systemroot%\system32\wbengine.exe,-104 (wbengine) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\system32\wbengine.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%Systemroot%\system32\wbem\wmiapsrv.exe,-110 (wmiApSrv) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\system32\wbem\WmiApSrv.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%PROGRAMFILES%\Windows Media Player\wmpnetwk.exe,-101 (WMPNetworkSvc) - Unknown owner - C:\Program Files (x86)\Windows Media Player\wmpnetwk.exe (file missing)

--
End of file - 6224 bytes


PICTURES:

http://i.imgur.com/02OtMm6.png

Although it says chrome a lot, even when chrome isnt open it still runs at high RAM when IDLE.

PLEASE HELP, AND THANK YOU!!

Dual post
Only one is needed. It saves confusion.

I'm pretty sure your file allocation table is corrupt

I would think it is plausible that a thin oil could get in between the layers of a motherboard by capillary action, at the edges or where holes are, and then embrittle the plastic, leading to separation of layers and all kinds of reliability issues.I have read an article about a company called Green Revolution Cooling who use a special FORMULATION of so-called "mineral oil" called GreenDef. This was the SUBJECT of a year-long test by Intel. Servers are submerged in racks FILLED with GreenDef coolant. Circulation of the fluid dissipates server heat, which is carried out to a centralized pump module where the heat is exchanged to the outside. Also Puget Systems have been marketing oil-immersion kits for years, since around 2007. Puget use a white mineral oil from STE Oil called "Crystal Plus 70T". They say that certain items such as CPU and GPU need special cooling blocks in place of the heatsink blocks used in a conventional air cooled system, that fans are not needed but can be left running because it makes the oil swirl in a pretty way, that wicking effects mean that cables have to be arranged correctly, that spinning platter hard drives should not be immersed in the oil.

A Slashdot article from 2008 had mixed comments, including "I know that air cooling has its limitations, but there is something nice about knowing your computer is not going to spooge all over your desk or floor."

Hey, i am getting an issue where for instance i'm playing Alan Wake or some DayZ and my frame rate would be running at about 50-61 and suddenly drop to about 15 fps and i would get a repetitive and scratchy audio. I usually fix this by restarting my desktop, but another half hour or so later it happens again. I recently UPGRADED my GPU to a GTX 660 but this didnt happen until about a month and a half after installing the card. I have been trying to fix it for a couple weeks, some say its audio drivers or overheating but i have tested with different drivers and my CPU/GPU never goes further than 65C, but that's with games like Battlefield 3 which don't have this problem as bad.

This is my build.

-An Asus P8h77-VLE motherboard
-I5 3570k CPU
-GTX 660 GPU
-Seagate 1tb HDD
-2x4gb ddr3 RAMM
-450watt PSU
This happens more with some games than others, it was awful with Alan wake...not as bad with others, has a problem with Napoleon Total War.

It ACTUALLY also did this while watching videos on internet explorer but i don't have a problem with Chrome, this really confused me. I read something about it maybe being a power supply failure, i used one of those calculators and it said a 400watt psu is recommended.This should be power supply problem mate. I've seen your specs and yes a 400W PSU COULD BE enough but it will surely overheat when playing demanding games like what you are playing. All things have certain TOLERANCE and I think your PSU have reached the max tolerance it can handle. I suggest you get a 700-900w PSU not just for your current built but also for future upgrades like your GPU.Thanks, i had a feeling it had something to do with the PSU. You know of any that would be effective...like a certain brand that isn't not to costly.

Temps are normal.Quote from: Computer_Commando on June 03, 2013, 08:57:46 AM

Temps are normal.

I would never do any disk = level tasks such as a re-install on battery power...just my opinion.
For true A/C power simply remove the battery as it sounds like the culprit here.

Let me expand on what Patio said.
Whenever a new or used battery is placed in a laptop, there is the possibility that something may not work right. It may e a real hardware issue and not about firmware or software. Most laptops should work reliable without the battery in place. See documentation. Charging a new or used battery places additional load on the power suppl and increases the heat buildup in the power supply.And even heat buildup in the Laptop. It is beat to not use the laptop u till the battery is at or near full change. Doing a backup on a laptop places a heat load on both the hard drive and the CPU. Thus Patio's suggestion to remove the battery while doing a heavy job makes sense from an engineering point of view. Heat is the number one threat to laptops.
Just saying the suggestion makes sense.
But the idea that Windows kills batteries does not make sense.
This old story is hyperbole.
http://www.zdnet.com/blog/hardware/is-windows-7-wrecking-notebook-batteries/7149

I had a hard time reading this but I got the gist of it cause I'm not stupid. I understand what you said but obviously my issue was with 7 cause my mom used this comp and I used this comp with NO problems till I put 7 on it. Vista was on this before with no problems. Now XP is on it with NO problems. 7 DOES wreck batteries and No jacked up missing letters in your reply will change my mind on this. thanks for replying but if you have nothing to say but to criticize my theory---then don't post on my thread. K? And I'm nrot clicking on your link. Prob takes me to a virus or gay porn

I understand what you said but obviously my issue was with 7 cause my mom used this comp and I used this comp with NO problems till I put 7 on it.

Vista was on this before with no problems. Now XP is on it with NO problems.

7 DOES wreck batteries

and No jacked up missing letters in your reply will change my mind on this. thanks for replying but if you have nothing to say but to criticize my theory---then don't post on my thread. K?

No jacked up missing letters in your reply will change my mind on this. thanks for replying but if you have nothing to say but to criticize my theory---then don't post on my thread. K? And I'm nrot clicking on your link. Prob takes me to a virus or gay porn

You left out the best parts BC...

partly that was what sparked it; more specifically the first sentence seems to basically say "Nothing will change my mind on this"

Honestly this sort of attitude just boggles my mind. If contradictory evidence or evidence that doesn't fit in with a "theory" isn't going to change one's mind or at least prompt them to revise the theory- or at least think about it critically- than they are beyond any logical discourse and have left the field of logical thought and entered into the domain of Faith. Now Faith is fine in many circumstances, but it doesn't make a lot of sense in this one. Believing that, for example, Windows 7 wrecks batteries, doesn't make it any more true; and ignoring contradictory evidence (such as, for example, my Laptop being able to run Windows 7 for over 2 years without issue) just doesn't make sense.

Even a weak concession such as modifying the theory to "Windows 7 Destroys some laptop batteries" would at least be a step in the right direction. But to instead simply discard every contradictory piece of information is pretty silly. The problem even with the modified 'theory' is that it doesn't actually explain anything at all. it's just stating the resulting observations. it also ignores the fact that the only thing that would differ between a system where windows 7 "destroys" a battery and one where it works fine is almost certain to be the hardware. So the logical conclusion is that it's hardware related, which is supported by pretty much every piece of evidence on this issue.

One analogy is that of making toast. You put toast in a toaster, press it down, and a few minutes later, it's toast. The reasonable observation is that the toaster made the toast.

But it's still possible for additional evidence to change that original hypothesis. For example, if on closer inspection you find the toaster to be unplugged and the house on fire, it might be worth amending the theory that the toaster performed the toasting (And also skipping the addition of any toppings and getting the heck out of there). A person that discovers the toaster to be unplugged and the house on fire and still feels strongly that the toaster performed a miracle of toasting is living in a reality distortion field of their own choosing constructed from their own confirmation bias and arguments to ignorance.

Back in the DAY, I ran a computer shop out of the local flea market. This has been 10 or 11 years ago, and I sold computers $1 = CPU speed. Well those days are over. Things have gotten confusing for this old Hippie Gypsy! And I have no clue where to go for answers.

I currently have
Board: MICRO-STAR INTERNATIONAL CO.,LTD 785GTM-E45 (MS-7549) 1.0
Bus Clock: 200 megahertz with a 2.10 gigahertz AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual Core CPU. 4GB memory. ATI Radeon HD 5450 video card

I KNOW the board & CPU is at LEAST 3 years old.

What I am asking is, what would be a upgrade on a limited budget? Something I can do right away, then save scratch back to do a bigger upgrade later on? I am more trusting of the folks here and on other boards than I am at the computer stores, as you have nothing to gain by giving me good advise. They want to make as much of a sale as possible to pad their sales. Can someone help out this old hippie?

You already have a mean machine.
Quote

I know the board & CPU is at LEAST 3 years old.

Hey, I have a 3k Pc that I USE for work, and this morning it was completely pitching a fit. In January I plugged it into the charger to charge and the charger was broken So my computer got fried.

I got it back repaired 2 months later, but the ups driver didnt care about it and when it got backed, the screen was broken.

So now I've been USING a LG moniter for it, and TODAY my computer refused to go to the analog.

Can any of you help me please... Because Its my work computer Quite the ray of sunshine this one...Tag line edited for LANGUAGE, duplicate post removed, thread moved to appropriate forum.

==================================================
Dump File : 061013-23852-01.dmp
Crash Time : 10-06-2013 16:06:24
Bug Check String : CACHE_MANAGER
Bug Check Code : 0x00000034
Parameter 1 : 00000000`00050853
Parameter 2 : fffff880`0359a4c8
Parameter 3 : fffff880`03599d20
Parameter 4 : fffff800`031c9b05
Caused By Driver : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By ADDRESS : ntoskrnl.exe+75c00
File Description : NT Kernel & System
Product Name : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company : Microsoft Corporation
File Version : 6.1.7601.18113 (win7sp1_gdr.130318-1533)
Processor : x64
Crash Address : ntoskrnl.exe+75c00
STACK Address 1 :
Stack Address 2 :
Stack Address 3 :
Computer Name :
Full Path : C:\Windows\Minidump\061013-23852-01.dmp
Processors Count : 4
Major Version : 15
Minor Version : 7601
Dump File Size : 287.936
Dump File Time : 10-06-2013 16:10:06
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File : 061013-17706-01.dmp
Crash Time : 10-06-2013 15:45:39
Bug Check String : MEMORY_MANAGEMENT
Bug Check Code : 0x0000001a
Parameter 1 : 00000000`00041790
Parameter 2 : fffffa80`059e0380
Parameter 3 : 00000000`0000ffff
Parameter 4 : 00000000`00000000
Caused By Driver : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+75c00
File Description : NT Kernel & System
Product Name : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company : Microsoft Corporation
File Version : 6.1.7601.18113 (win7sp1_gdr.130318-1533)
Processor : x64
Crash Address : ntoskrnl.exe+75c00
Stack Address 1 :
Stack Address 2 :
Stack Address 3 :
Computer Name :
Full Path : C:\Windows\Minidump\061013-17706-01.dmp
Processors Count : 4
Major Version : 15
Minor Version : 7601
Dump File Size : 287.072
Dump File Time : 10-06-2013 15:47:30
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File : 061013-22089-01.dmp
Crash Time : 10-06-2013 15:19:44
Bug Check String : KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED
Bug Check Code : 0x0000001e
Parameter 1 : ffffffff`c0000005
Parameter 2 : fffff800`033b5cd0
Parameter 3 : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 4 : ffffffff`ffffffff
Caused By Driver : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+75c00
File Description : NT Kernel & System
Product Name : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company : Microsoft Corporation
File Version : 6.1.7601.18113 (win7sp1_gdr.130318-1533)
Processor : x64
Crash Address : ntoskrnl.exe+75c00
Stack Address 1 :
Stack Address 2 :
Stack Address 3 :
Computer Name :
Full Path : C:\Windows\Minidump\061013-22089-01.dmp
Processors Count : 4
Major Version : 15
Minor Version : 7601
Dump File Size : 286.048
Dump File Time : 10-06-2013 15:26:03
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File : 061013-26644-01.dmp
Crash Time : 10-06-2013 15:13:47
Bug Check String : MEMORY_MANAGEMENT
Bug Check Code : 0x0000001a
Parameter 1 : 00000000`00041790
Parameter 2 : fffffa80`0295c3e0
Parameter 3 : 00000000`0000ffff
Parameter 4 : 00000000`00000000
Caused By Driver : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+75c00
File Description : NT Kernel & System
Product Name : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company : Microsoft Corporation
File Version : 6.1.7601.18113 (win7sp1_gdr.130318-1533)
Processor : x64
Crash Address : ntoskrnl.exe+75c00
Stack Address 1 :
Stack Address 2 :
Stack Address 3 :
Computer Name :
Full Path : C:\Windows\Minidump\061013-26644-01.dmp
Processors Count : 4
Major Version : 15
Minor Version : 7601
Dump File Size : 289.552
Dump File Time : 10-06-2013 15:17:33
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File : 061013-23727-01.dmp
Crash Time : 10-06-2013 14:54:11
Bug Check String : MEMORY_MANAGEMENT
Bug Check Code : 0x0000001a
Parameter 1 : 00000000`00041790
Parameter 2 : fffffa80`058a83e0
Parameter 3 : 00000000`0000ffff
Parameter 4 : 00000000`00000000
Caused By Driver : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+75c00
File Description : NT Kernel & System
Product Name : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company : Microsoft Corporation
File Version : 6.1.7601.18113 (win7sp1_gdr.130318-1533)
Processor : x64
Crash Address : ntoskrnl.exe+75c00
Stack Address 1 :
Stack Address 2 :
Stack Address 3 :
Computer Name :
Full Path : C:\Windows\Minidump\061013-23727-01.dmp
Processors Count : 4
Major Version : 15
Minor Version : 7601
Dump File Size : 291.080
Dump File Time : 10-06-2013 14:58:18
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File : 061013-23103-01.dmp
Crash Time : 10-06-2013 14:46:19
Bug Check String : SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION
Bug Check Code : 0x0000003b
Parameter 1 : 00000000`c0000005
Parameter 2 : fffff800`03344323
Parameter 3 : fffff880`04161640
Parameter 4 : 00000000`00000000
Caused By Driver : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+75c00
File Description : NT Kernel & System
Product Name : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company : Microsoft Corporation
File Version : 6.1.7601.18113 (win7sp1_gdr.130318-1533)
Processor : x64
Crash Address : ntoskrnl.exe+75c00
Stack Address 1 :
Stack Address 2 :
Stack Address 3 :
Computer Name :
Full Path : C:\Windows\Minidump\061013-23103-01.dmp
Processors Count : 4
Major Version : 15
Minor Version : 7601
Dump File Size : 287.552
Dump File Time : 10-06-2013 14:48:03
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File : 061013-39998-01.dmp
Crash Time : 10-06-2013 14:29:33
Bug Check String : MEMORY_MANAGEMENT
Bug Check Code : 0x0000001a
Parameter 1 : 00000000`00041790
Parameter 2 : fffffa80`028c03b0
Parameter 3 : 00000000`0000ffff
Parameter 4 : 00000000`00000000
Caused By Driver : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+75c00
File Description : NT Kernel & System
Product Name : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company : Microsoft Corporation
File Version : 6.1.7601.18113 (win7sp1_gdr.130318-1533)
Processor : x64
Crash Address : ntoskrnl.exe+75c00
Stack Address 1 :
Stack Address 2 :
Stack Address 3 :
Computer Name :
Full Path : C:\Windows\Minidump\061013-39998-01.dmp
Processors Count : 4
Major Version : 15
Minor Version : 7601
Dump File Size : 287.872
Dump File Time : 10-06-2013 14:35:50
==================================================

DLoad and RUN MemTest...follow the site info on making the bootable CD.
Let it run at least an hour.
Any ERRORS at all and you have a BAD stik of RAM...okay ill try that,

what u meen about i have a bad stick of ram?RAM fails...as all PC components do...

I just built a new system using an msi 760gm-p23 mobo and FX 6100 six core CPU. I have a 450W PSU that came with the case and 4GB DDR3 1333 RAM as well as the GTX 650. After my initial build it seemed like the system hung up booting but I got no signal from the video card or the onboard video so I couldn't tell. Initially I suspected faulty RAM but after getting some input from MSI I discovered that I had a grounding issue with the mobo and the case somewhere which I corrected. I tried to boot again and everything sounded like it was working fine but still no signal from either output source. Continuing to troubleshoot I removed the GPU and everything worked fine using the onboard video. I utilized this TIME to update drivers for all of my components and tried the GPU agian; same result as before. I'm wondering if this mobo doesn't support geforce cards (my old radeon 4650 works just fine) or if the GTX card draws too much power or if it's a different problem all together.

Edit: upon further examination the GTX says it's GDDR5, could this be the problem?The type of memory on the card isn't important, it's only addressed by the card itself so there are no compatibility issues with the system RAM or memory controller.
Have you got another system you could try the GTX 650 in? What exact power supply is it that you're using? Have you tried another power connector, if one is available?Not saying it's true here but in general the PSU's they include on a case purchase ain't usually the cat's meow...
Usually a generic Tier4 quality or lower.That's pretty much what I was getting at, whilst covering other bases to try and RULE out the card (as it's an MSI).The PSU was already installed and it's a Thermaltake case so I would imagine the PSU would be theirs as well. I do have the PSU from my old computer that I could install and try but I don't relish the thought of pulling the new one out and swapping them. I suppose it would be possible to PUT the 650 in my old build and see if it works there. I'm reasonable confident it's not the mobo since my old video card is working just fine in the same PCIe slot. As far as the power connecters are concerned, it requires a 6pin which my PSU didn't have but it came with an adapter to attach it to two disk drive power connecters which I used. I'm confused as to why if the 650 is the problem why would it prevent my onboard video from working?Quote from: bouncingturtle on June 10, 2013, 09:10:29 AM

I suppose it would be possible to put the 650 in my old build and see if it works there.

I'm reasonable confident it's not the mobo since my old video card is working just fine in the same PCIe slot.

As far as the power connecters are concerned, it requires a 6pin which my PSU didn't have but it came with an adapter to attach it to two disk drive power connecters which I used.

I'm confused as to why if the 650 is the problem why would it prevent my onboard video from working?

Hello,

Just recently I built a computer.

Parts USED:

Case: Antec nine hundred
Cpu: Intel I7 3770
Cpu cooler: Antec H20 920
Gpu: Geforce NVidia 660 TI
Power supply: Corsair CX 750
Motherboard: Asus Maximus V Extreme
Ram: 2 x 8 DDR3 corsair vengeance

My current problem is my cpu is too hot, it never drops below 60 degrees celsius.

Any solutions?
3 questions:
How are you getting your TEMP readings ? ?
Was Thermal paste properly applied when you built this ? ?
Are you sure the CPU fan ASSEMBLY is fastened properly to the heatsink ? ?A 4th quick question:
Any reason you didn't use the stock inTel cooler ? ?I am certain everything is installed correctly. I am using a program called core temp to measure the temperature on my cpu.

My current cooler water cools the chip which is quieter and somewhat better than the stock Intel cooler.See question # 2...
Even with water coolers it needs installed properly...

And are those idle temps...or under load.
If under load you are fine.That is idle temp, and I'm sure I installed the water cooling correctly.Did you use thermal paste ? ?

At idle that CPU is 38 to 45c...Yes I did, under load it doesn't seem to go over 100 degrees.AnandTech reports some of those ran 48c at idle...for whatever reason...
They also state however 105 is the breaking point so keep a good eye on it.Do you know how I can fix it? It's bothering me thinking I might break it if I use it.I'd try 2 or 3 more temp monitor apps...then avaerage all the #'s together...
It could be a number of things INCLUDING the after-market cooler you are running.
Just cause it's water-cooled doesn't mean it's working properly.That does seem pretty high for that CPU if I'm honest - My 3770k is overclocked and reaches 77c on its hottest core when running a stress test, I have a Corsair H60 so our coolers are similar.

You may want to check the application of the thermal paste, you should have only used a very small amount - You may want to clean it all off with rubbing alcohol and reapply it to see.

Finally, check your cooler is wired up correctly - The fan attached to the radiator should connect to the CPU fan header and the PUMP should connect to any non-CPU fan header. Getting these the wrong way round can cause the pump to run at reduced speed.Quote from: camerongray on June 10, 2013, 04:22:14 AM

Finally, check your cooler is wired up correctly - The fan attached to the radiator should connect to the CPU fan header and the pump should connect to any non-CPU fan header. Getting these the wrong way round can cause the pump to run at reduced speed.

My computer TURNS off automaticly i already changed the thermal paste and cleaned everything. I go into BIOS to test for hardware failures and it just turns off how do i know whats wrong if i can't test anything?
THANKS please respond ASAP
I take it that you only applied a small amount of thermal paste, if you applied a lot then that could cause it to heat up too much. My next suspect would be the PSU, Do you have another one to try it with or would you be able to BORROW one? (Don't buy one yet)Yes i only applied a small amount, and its a LAPTOP


This may sound stupid but does the battery have charge ? or on charge ? ( 8/10 times its usualy some thing simple like that )

So I'm stuck with this "OKAY" Asus K52F, and I'm trying to do some upgrades on it.

I just did a little RAM upgrade (from 3GB to 6GB) and I plan on maxing that out soon. Seems to me like there isn't much left that can be done to it, but I wanted to get some opinion on what would make a good upgrade with it.

Obviously the best solution would be getting a more power platform to build on, but beside that, what would you guys do?

Also, just curious if this SSD would work.
http://ocz.com/consumer/vector-7mm-sata-3-ssd/specifications

For some reason I'm totally blanking and haven't been able to find a STRAIGHT answer on Google as to whether or not SATA III will work on a SATA platform. I know it's backward compatible from SATA III to SATA II, and I believe SATA II is also backward compatible to SATA... so it SATA III also backward compatible to SATA?All SATA standards are backwards compatible...
Whether this is a worthwhile investment or not can only be decided by who holds the cabbage...You will be able to use any SATA standard on any SATA port but the speed may end up being limited by the port's speed. I'd still say an SSD is very worthwhile for that machine (I used to have a similar spec laptop and an SSD really helped) but you may WANT to save money and get a cheaper SSD as you won't get the full speed of the Vector on anything lower than SATA III (Not that it won't work of course).Virtually all SSD's are SATA III, so don't worry about it. It'll work on SATA I or II & will run at the speed of the host.
Your Asus K52F is probably II or III, specs don't say. HWInfo will tell you for sure.
http://www.asus.com/Notebooks_Ultrabooks/K52F/#specifications

128GB OCZ Vector is $150; Newegg user FEEDBACK is not that great. My experience with OCZ is that they reluctant to warranty anything & make the process overly difficult.What should be mentioned here is that the speeds of the SSD depend on the Mboards slot speeds...
An SSD HDD will not be as fast on a SATA 1 port as it will be on SATA 3...
That being stated you should see a performance increase with an SSD HDD.

BTW i disagree with the info above regarding OCZ...i've had nothing but good luck DEALING with them in the past.Quote from: patio on May 31, 2013, 04:04:08 PM

What should be mentioned here is that the speeds of the SSD depend on the Mboards slot speeds...
An SSD HDD will not be as fast on a SATA 1 port as it will be on SATA 3...
That being stated you should see a performance increase with an SSD HDD.

BTW i disagree with the info above regarding OCZ...i've had nothing but good luck dealing with them in the past.

I had a well-working laptop and charger. When I returned from college for the summer my charger started only occasionally working. I would have to jiggle it and move it around at just the right angle for it to continue working. Eventually it GOT worse and it would no longer charge my computer but only keep it on. I began using a spare charger thinking that this charger simply got too old or just stopped working. The charger worked fine for two days and then began exhibiting the same symptoms. I've tried both chargers in another laptop and they act the same. I have another charger now but am worried about the same thing happening to it. Is it possible that this is being CAUSED by my computer or by an electrical problem in my outlet? Or should I start looking for holes and blame one of my pets?

Thank you!

Quote

Or should I start looking for holes and blame one of my pets?

That'll be the DC jack in the laptop itself - the jack which the charger plugs into. Sometimes these are soldered in and what will have happened is the solder has broken, sometimes it's a cable and it's just come loose, or it could be damaged internally. Either way, you'll need to get that replaced. I would recommend taking it to a computer shop as the repair can be somewhat delicate and time consuming to attempt yourself.

Would that permanently affect the power cords though? Because they won't work in any of the other laptops I've plugged them into either.

I would recommend taking it to a computer shop as the repair can be somewhat delicate and time consuming to attempt yourself.

hi im FAIRLY new to this so please respond as thought I don't know anything about computers,

my computer wont boot after being turned off, it will spin the fans but then shut down... in order to turn it on I must basically get lucky and reach a screen where it gives the option to restart. when I restart it from that screen it WORKS perfectly and will run all day, I can even restart it from here and it will turn straight back on but if I shut down it wont turn back on... I have no idea whats going on here, any ideas?

Not sure these are 100% accurate:
Graphics card: XFX Radeon HD 6870
CPU: Intel i5
RAM: 8GB Corsair Vengence (2x4gb)
Hard drive: 1tb Samsung
Power supply: 230v ATXWelcome to the forums.

You can use a program called Speccy to get more detailed information about your system, which will help us to help you.
From what you've said, the problem sounds like what is known as a cold boot issue. This kind of problem can be caused by SEVERAL things, so once we know some more detailed information about your PC we can start narrowing it down.Quote from: adrenox on JUNE 11, 2013, 07:07:26 AM

hi im fairly new to this so please respond as thought I don't know anything about computers,

my computer wont boot after being turned off, it will spin the fans but then shut down... in order to turn it on I must basically get lucky and reach a screen where it gives the option to restart. when I restart it from that screen it works perfectly and will run all day, I can even restart it from here and it will turn straight back on but if I shut down it wont turn back on... I have no idea whats going on here, any ideas?

Not sure these are 100% accurate:
Graphics card: XFX Radeon HD 6870
CPU: Intel i5
RAM: 8gb Corsair Vengence (2x4gb)
Hard drive: 1tb Samsung
Power supply: 230v ATX

Dear Computer HOPE Forum,

I have been AROUND your webchat for a while and learned a lot from it, so thanks for that already. Tho now it's time to ask some advice on your forums

Recently I've built my first RIG and I'm pretty happy about it other than the cable management which is pretty messy.. the only problem I'm having with it is that I can't seem to use any virtualization software. A friend of mine told me to look into the BIOS for the option to enable it but I can't seem to FIND any. Can you five me some advice about this please? I'll give detailed info with screenshots.

Motherboard: H87M-E (windows professional)

Error when using windows virtual machine without modifying BIOS: http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/2361/vmbug.png

Thanks a lot for taking some of your time to help me.

Anthony are you running a 32-bit OS? are you running a 64-bit version of Virtual PC?I'm trying to run a 64 bit OS on the VM, tho I don't know how to check what bit my virtual pc software isQuote from: xuvel on June 12, 2013, 07:04:26 AM

I'm trying to run a 64 bit OS on the VM, tho I don't know how to check what bit my virtual pc software is

i forgot to eject a dvd from dvd rom on my laptop and it stayed ther the whole night.it didn't when i tried to open it the following day,but i used a needle on the small hole on a rom to open it.the problem is that EVEN after i ejected the dvd it doesn't want to open the NORMAL WAY.what must i do before i open the whole laptop?This is a common problem with optical drives. Laptops usually have a spring loaded eject which requires you to pull the tray out and remove the disc that is snapped into the spindle, or a mechanical feed in which there is no tray and it grabs the disc to take it away.

Desktop computers usually have the mechanical tray that ejects all the way out with a disc that rests in the pocket of the tray.

Unfortunately usually when these drives act this way to not eject a disc they are damaged internally, which can be anything from a broken piece of plastic to a gear tooth or catch, to a RUBBER belt that is SLIPPING, stretched, or popped off.

The good thing is that optical drive replacements are usually not too expensive and some laptops come with removable optical drives which do not require you to have to open the laptop.

To help further... what is the make and model of the laptop so I can see what you are up against and direct you on the best corrective action for this computer.Actually optical drive replacements for laptops can be quite pricey...
However...carry on.

Hi everyone,

This is about a Dell Inspiron 5160, with NVIDIA GeForce FX Go5200 graphics, installed with dual-boot Windows XP and Fedora 14.

When I press the power button, the screen backlight comes on, but the screen is blank. Nothing is visible of the BIOS startup display, or GRUB. (I can still select options in GRUB by remembering where they were; but the BIOS menus I have no idea about, so I can only boot from the operating systems already installed on the internal hard drive.)

If I tell it to boot Fedora, after a short time the display appears, with some error messages at the top which I think started at the same time as this problem.

After that, Fedora appears to work fine.
If I connect an external monitor, that also displays nothing at the start. It SWITCHES itself on at the same time as the text appears on the built-in screen, SHOWING the same text itself. Fedora then goes into two-monitor mode.

If I boot Windows and log in, I can hear the Windows chime, but nothing appears on the screen. For a while after the problem started, if I tried this, then about 30 seconds after login, the computer put a snowstorm pattern on the screen and then powered off. But that seems to have fixed itself for now...
If I connect an external monitor, that switches itself on with "Windows is starting up" just before the login screen, and allows Windows to be used.

I don't remember whether or not an external monitor displayed the BIOS information and GRUB before the problem started.

If nothing at all appeared on the built-in screen, I would count this as a simple hardware failure. The mystery is that Fedora still works. I tried a search about invalid EDID checksums, but other people's problems are happening in Linux, while in my case Linux is the only thing still working.

Any ideas of the most likely cause for this?

The error message in the photo repeats 8 times in dmesg, the last 4 of them corresponding to the timestamps in the photo.
Code: [Select][ 1.636045] [drm] Initialized drm 1.1.0 20060810
[ 1.687968] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: PCI INT A -> GSI 20 (level, low) -> IRQ 20
[ 1.693100] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: Detected an NV30 generation card (0x034400b1)
[ 1.693371] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: Attempting to load BIOS image from PRAMIN
[ 1.744018] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: ... BIOS checksum invalid
[ 1.744023] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: Attempting to load BIOS image from PROM
[ 1.744028] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: ... BIOS signature not found
[ 1.744032] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: Attempting to load BIOS image from PCIROM
[ 1.744165] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: ... appears to be valid
[ 1.744485] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: BMP BIOS found
[ 1.744489] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: BMP version 5.39
[ 1.744493] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: Bios version 04.34.20.34
[ 1.744497] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: Found Display Configuration Block version 2.2
[ 1.744502] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: Raw DCB entry 0: 01010300 000088b8
[ 1.744506] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: Raw DCB entry 1: 03000323 00000004
[ 1.744510] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: Raw DCB entry 2: 02030321 00000703
[ 1.744694] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: Loading NV17 power sequencing microcode
[ 1.744700] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: Parsing VBIOS init table 0 at offset 0xED28
[ 1.748046] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: Parsing VBIOS init table 1 at offset 0xEFBA
[ 1.748060] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: Parsing VBIOS init table 2 at offset 0xF100
[ 1.748118] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: Parsing VBIOS init table 3 at offset 0xF2B9
[ 1.748125] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: Parsing VBIOS init table 4 at offset 0xF2D6
[ 1.748132] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: Parsing VBIOS init table 5 at offset 0xF2F3
[ 1.797704] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: Parsing VBIOS init table 6 at offset 0xF483
[ 1.797715] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: Detected 32MiB VRAM
[ 1.797822] [TTM] Zone kernel: Available graphics memory: 432624 kiB.
[ 1.797827] [TTM] Zone highmem: Available graphics memory: 1030542 kiB.
[ 1.797831] [TTM] Initializing pool allocator.
[ 1.798598] agpgart-intel 0000:00:00.0: AGP 2.0 bridge
[ 1.798621] agpgart-intel 0000:00:00.0: putting AGP V2 device into 4x mode
[ 1.798671] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: putting AGP V2 device into 4x mode
[ 1.798694] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: 128 MiB GART (aperture)
[ 1.798745] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: Saving VGA fonts
[ 1.850853] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: Allocating FIFO number 0
[ 1.853316] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: nouveau_channel_alloc: initialised FIFO 0
[ 1.853335] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: Setting dpms mode 3 on vga encoder (output 0)
[ 1.853341] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: Setting dpms mode 3 on lvds encoder (output 1)
[ 1.853348] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: Calling LVDS script 1:
[ 1.853353] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: Calling LVDS script 6:
[ 1.853357] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: 0xDDBF: Parsing digital output script table
[ 2.354048] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: Setting dpms mode 3 on TV encoder (output 2)
[ 2.499930] [drm:drm_edid_block_valid] *ERROR* EDID checksum is invalid, remainder is 208
[ 2.499983] [drm:drm_edid_block_valid] *ERROR* Raw EDID:
...
[ 3.362695] [drm:drm_edid_block_valid] *ERROR* EDID checksum is invalid, remainder is 208
[ 3.362783] [drm:drm_edid_block_valid] *ERROR* Raw EDID:
[ 3.362842] <3>d0 ff ff ff ff ff ff 00 4c a3 58 43 00 00 00 00 ........L.XC....
[ 3.362845] <3>00 0d 01 03 80 1e 17 78 0a 87 f5 94 57 4f 8c 27 .......x....WO.'
[ 3.362849] <3>27 50 54 00 00 00 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 'PT.............
[ 3.362852] <3>01 01 01 01 01 01 64 19 00 40 41 00 26 30 18 88 [emailprotected]&0..
[ 3.362855] <3>36 00 30 e4 10 00 00 19 00 00 00 0f 00 00 00 00 6.0.............
[ 3.362858] <3>00 00 00 00 00 18 ee 02 74 00 00 00 00 fe 00 44 ........t......D
[ 3.362861] <3>31 31 38 35 04 31 35 30 58 43 0a 20 00 00 00 fe 1185.150XC. ....
[ 3.362864] <3>00 d0 c8 bf af 9f 80 5f 00 01 0a 20 20 20 00 A1 ......._... ..
[ 3.362867]
[ 3.362871] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: LVDS-1: EDID block 0 invalid.
[ 3.362875] [drm] nouveau 0000:01:00.0: DDC responded, but no EDID for LVDS-1
Please explain..
Quote

Dell Inspiron 5160, with NVIDIA GeForce FX Go5200 graphics

It sounds like the video card is shot. Call Dell and get the thing replaced. The only other thing I can think of is that the driver for the card has to be reinstalled. As you have just gotten the thing, call Dell to make things right - in any case, reinstalling the video driver will be part of the troubleshooting routine that Dell will have you do. You can download a new video driver (well, new at least as far as Dell is concerned) from...

This article is about the use of ungrounded power supplies with other electronic EQUIPMENT. Some types of devices do not require grounding plugs. This is often true with certain types of cameras and other devices that are used by themselves. Another another device could be a smart PHONE, which is not normally collected to the charger for a long period of time. So on ungrounded charger would not be considered a safety issue.
Laptop computers should have ungrounded power supply. Laptops can be connected to a local area network or to a telephone line by means of a modem. In either case there is a safety hazard if the equipment is not properly grounded. Also, there can be a PERFORMANCE issue. Some older laptops did not have grounded power supplies and they did not work well on dial-up modems publisher disconnect the power supply from the mains. I had an old IBM ThinkPad like that. The power supply what actually caused noise to appear on the telephone line. Like a that would not have occurred if the power supply had a grounding connector.


Here's a picture of a couple of power brakes and another of a couple of wall warts with the power brakes it's rather obvious that there are both to wire and three wire plugs for these devices the to wire plug is of course not grounded. Likewise with the wall warts. Obviously the to wire wall wart is not grounded. When using these type of power supplies be aware that cooking up such a device to your desktop or laptop PC may cause problems. Both performance problems and even damage of components. This is well documented elsewhere. I am not making this stuff up.
Comments welcome.

Ok so i plugged in a new GRAPHICS card to my computer. I did my research and the graphics card was compatible as told by a computer expert. Now I plugged it in and it went in fine but what I want to know is if the 6 pin cord that came with it is required. My computer's power supply doesn't have a 6 pin connector coming out of it to plug into the graphics card(not that i could FIND anyway). What I want to know is whether or not i even need the cord and if i do need it then how do i install it?

Here is my computer with the specs:
http://h10010.www1.hp.com/wwpc/ca/en/ho/WF06b/12454-12454-3329740-64546-64546-5080764-5110020.html?dnr=1

and this is the graphics card i installed:
http://www.amazon.com/Sapphire-DL-DVI-I-SL-DVI-D-PCI-Express-100354OC-2L/dp/B00A2J4ROE/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1371187758&sr=1-1&keywords=sapphire+7870Yes, the 6 pin connector is required for the card to work, your system will not pass POST without it so it will just sit on a black screen doing nothing. Your power supply is more than likely not powerful enough to support the 7870, but have a look on the side of the unit and it will GIVE you the rated total wattage and wattage per line (12V, 5V etc). If you post that here, we can TELL you if it might be safe to use an adapter.
However, HP and other OEMs tend to specify their power SUPPLIES to work with the hardware supplied - obviously, if a 250W PSU is cheaper than a 500W, and their system draws 200W, there's no point them supplying a 500W PSU because it would just cost more.

does a nook hd have a HARD drive?While I've never handled a Nook I'm certain all e-readers and TABLETS work PRETTY much in the same way - they use ram and rom as opposed to hard drives.

While installing some OS? Also being at some Live CD/DVD session? Does USB device (having installed OS on it) CONNECTED to computer is faster than a real physical CD/DVD then, being at the live session? Once the session is up, there is no PIRATICAL difference.
Many Live Linux distros run on 512 MB of memory and do not need to read from the CD unless you call a n application off the CD.
But for the record, I THINK flash is faster to load.
BTW: Here are a couple of lists.
http://livecdlist.com/
http://distrowatch.com/search.php?category=Live+Medium

Even if you have sworn absolute allegiance to the MS monopoly, It is still a good idea to have a few Linux Live CDs in your survival kit.

IMO, Flash will install OS faster. I have tried it thrice ALREADY and three times, it installed Windows 7 for less than 20 minutes while installing OS from a CD/DVD would take more than 20 minutes in my own experience. I'm not sure but sometimes this COULD also depend on your computer.

I don't think that we should blame your AV right away in this situation. It might be that your RAM is too small for the software that you are using. It might be that you are needing of another memory stick. Could you tell us what programs do you usually run?

Hey everyone.

So first I'll give you all the system details.

I'm currently using an Asus K52F-BIN6. Everything is stock except for the RAM that I just upgraded.

It came with 3GB of 1333MHz DDR3 RAM. I wanted to try to get a little more umph, so I bought a new 4GB PNY DDR3 PC3-10666 stick.

After removing the stock 1GB stick an adding the new 4GB stick, I noticed a dramatic drop in my FPS while playing Counter Strike: Source. I also noticed that things like netflix and youtube (basically anything even slightly graphics heavy) became very choppy and out of sync. I decided that it would be better to just get another 4GB stick and make sure I had a set (as I thought there could have been a RAM speed mismatch). I just installed the other stick a few days ago, and I'm still experiencing the same problems: Low FPS in games (like 70% less FPS) and massive problems streaming via netflix.

So, after I noticed that the problem was still persisting, I decided to start cleaning off my primary partition. I did that, and still not benefit. Now I know that there could have been another issue, but I really don't believe in coicidence being the culprit.

Basically, I need to know what could be the cause. I have 2 brand new stick of RAM that (from what I can tell), my laptop should accept quite nicely, but performance is showing bad indications...

Anyway, I'm going to look for any driver updates I can find and go from there. But if anyone has any ideas, please let me know! Thanks!!!

-kyle_engineerHave you tried reverting to the original RAM, to see if the problem resolves itself? Sounds like a stick right on the edge of failure, or a compatibility issue.Not yet. My GF stuck one of the sticks in a box and I had to convince her to find it. LOL!! But I'm planning on running mem test on it tonight (I have a copy of Hiren's BCD so there's plenty to try), and if I can't figure it out I will switch BACK and see what that does.

One odd thing I noticed after posting this is that HWInfo64 is showing my RAM as being 1097 MHz No IDEA if I was reading something wrong, but it kind seemed like the RAM was being slowed down... Idk if that is psooible or not, but YEAH seems like something is going on... That would be because the laptop doesn't support faster than 1066MHz memory, so it will clock anything faster back down to that speed. That's expected.Huh... That's what I was thinking... But the old RAM was also labeled as 1333 MHz, so that small limitation should still wind me up slower/worse right?

Anyway, that's kinda beside the point. I ran Windows Memory Diag., and found a problem. I couldn't make sense of what it was saying... so I'm gonna put the other RAM back in at some time a little later.

Do you think you'd be able to help me figure out the Event Viewer log from the memory diagnostic tool? Bad RAM...to confirm this DLoad and run MEMTEST...follow the guide for making a bootdisk...let it run at least 1 hour.
Any errors at all and it's a bad stik of RAM.Quote from: kyle_engineer on June 14, 2013, 10:17:28 AM

Huh... That's what I was thinking... But the old RAM was also labeled as 1333 MHz, so that small limitation should still wind me up slower/worse right?

My LAPTOP inspiron sometimes starts sometimes wont....hello and welcome to CH,
we are going to NEED more information befor we can HELP you
what is displayed on the screen when it "does not start" ?

hello every one
i have a very strange issue on my desktop PC
first my motherbord is p45 memorylover
my cpu is Q9550 and 8 gb ddr3 ram , graphic card is 5970
i have to sata hard's the first is 500GB and the second is 200GB
yasterday :
my pc was running fine until there was temperature problem cause the cpu fan does not WORK fine so i changed it to THERMALTAKE cl-p0493 x5 orb fx ii and after that the PC doesn't start until many tries of changing cables slots etc (i thought this is the problem) and no problem at all
today :
the pc doesn't start it says boot mcr is missing so i changed the the sata cables slots places of hard drive (cause the mobo doesn't see the first hard witch the windows is installed in) and the cables too but there is now boot loop,
i have tried to enter the bios settings and i succeed and after i put ESC in bios and hit okey (exiting bios settings ) the PC restart normally and enter windows with out any problem
so the problem now there is a boot loop could not be solved with out pressing DEL and enter bios the restart !!!!! so this is the only way to start the PC :
power on >>> entering bios (change nothing) >>> exiting (nothing changed)>>> start windows normally ?
by the way the new fan has only three pins not four so the bios only recognize the cpu temp and not rpm but i don't think the problem form it cause i removed its connector with out removing new fan form cpu and i connects only my old cpu fan cable and the problem still exist
so please any IDEAS !?What exact motherboard do you have, and what BIOS version is it currently on?
What exact memory do you have?my motherbord is msi p45 memory lover my bios ver is 1.3
4 rams every one ram is 2 gb ddr3 1333 totally 8 gbNormally this problem is caused by either the BIOS version or the memory settings. Your BIOS is already up to date, so that's OK. Check your memory settings in the BIOS and make sure the speed, voltage and timings match up with what's printed on the side of the sticks.i have checked the speed of the cpu and the ram and every thing is okay but do you think i have to change battery of the mobo ?
maybe its bios problem cause i reset the bios yesterday when i checked the cables but it saves every thing ! i don't know ,, Shut down your computer and DISCONNECT the hard drive that Doesn't have Windows installed on it. Insert your Windows installation disc, boot to it, select language, click repair, run the automatic startup repair feature then try booting again. If that doesn't work then boot to it again and go to the command prompt. Type bootrec.exe /fixmbr and press enter. When that finishes reboot and see if it works. You said you have two hard drives, this can be caused by having both plugged in when installing Windows in which case it installs the bootloader to the secondary drive instead of the system drive.i offten get thins on my pc usaly when i have a usb in the usb ports when im booting up (i have boot of usb enabled) to its worth a check of making sure you don not have any usb sticks plugged it upon boot

I recently ACQUIRED a Dell Optiplex GX620 desktop computer with a Pentium 4 HT CPU. It came without a power supply. I also have another Dell computer, an Optiplex GX270 in a small form factor with a working power supply. The power supply connector from the SFF Dell GX270 seems to fit fine into the motherboard connector on the GX 620 desktop. Although the case of the power supply won't fit properly for a permanent installation, I'd just like to USE it to test the desktop computer. Is the power supply from the SFF compatible with the motherboard on the desktop computer, or am I risking frying my motherboard with the wrong power supply? Thanks in advance for all assistance.I have done this before when mixing dead systems to make a good working computer. The SFF power supply though is rated a lesser wattage usually than desktop computers, so installing a beefy video card may be too much for it. But if you are going to run it simply with a single hard drive, and integrated video it will work fine. If you want to use a video card in it, you might be pushing the power supply to its limit.

The last tower that I installed a SFF power supply into to get by was an ugly working computer, but it worked. I essentially had the SFF long rectangular power supply protruding out of the rear cut out that a NORMAL square box type PSU would mount and had lots of duct tape inside to affix the SFF PSU to the inside chasis of the computer.

* But power supplies are cheap and most universal 300-450watt power supplies would fit. The only CATCH would be if the mounting holes are non universal on the case. I know that some HP/Compaq's have a PSU compartment that looks liek it will take a universal power supply and then you go to screw the power supply in with 4 screws and only 1 screw will line up and the 3 others are not universal drilled mounting pattern. ( I have had to make a stencil and drill out Compaq and HP cases to accept universal power supplies and get the 4 screws to mount the supply! )

I am actually using a DELL Pentium 4 power supply from an OLD Dell Pentium 4 tower in a universal case as the PSU for a Server with a Sempron 145 CPU and it works well, so I know at least the Dell that this PSU came out of was a universal PSU case and of the same time period of your computer.

* If you can afford $25 for a power supply, I'd go the route of installing a PSU other than the SFF PSU, but if you dont want to spend money the SFF PSU will be fine under light power demands, but would not work well if used in a computer intended of gaming with a video card beyond the demands of a GeForce 4. (* I had a GeForce 4 MX 440 with 64MB video RAM which was PCI type when there was AGP and PCI cards about 10 years ago, and it was installed into a HP EVO SFF 1.5Ghz P4 and it worked ok with half-height bracket. )Thanks for a very detailed and helpful reply!

So, I am new at this whole upgrading process, so I am eager to get some advice on whatever I may need it on.

My computer is a standard Acer Aspire M3203, with it's standard motherboard, of course. The processor I'm looking at, is an;

INTEL Core i5-3350P 3,10GHz

Not sure if info is necessary besides the model, but it can't hurt, I GUESS? I also attached a picture of the motherboard model. It's not mine, but it is identical. If someone asks for me to take a picture of my computer's innards, just ask.

I haven't bought it yet, but I'm pretty much set on it. My problem is KIND of a "newbie" issue. I can't find where the processor is on my computer's motherboard. I quickly spoke to a friend, who said that he hopes it isn't part of the motherboard, as in, that I can't remove it. I hope this is not the case.

Any help and advice for replacing a processor would be appreciated. I'm happy to learn new things

[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]You cannot use any Intel processor in the Acer Aspire M3203, because that motherboard is for processors made by a different company, called AMD. To be more specific, the cpu socket, which in your photo is that squareish white thing with lots of little holes (941 holes) in it surrounded by a yellow plastic frame, is an AMD M3 socket. The CPU can be removed from the socket; it is not soldered to the board. You need to research which AMD M3 type processors are COMPATIBLE with that board. Depending on which CPU it already has, you may not see much performance increase, in fact I will go further and say you are better off keeping it exactly as it is now, meanwhile saving your money and getting a whole new motherboard and CPU and possibly RAM as well. Upgrading an older computer (2009) bit by bit is usually a way of spending plenty of money for not much gain.

Okay, thanks for that.

That helps. Really. Now I know what I'll do.

Last bit of advice, if I may.

If I bought this, an 'ASUS P8H61-M LX R2.0 Socket1155 DDR3', or 'GigaByte GA-H61MA-D2V 2.1M', would they be compatible with the processor mentioned, as well as a 'Asus GT640-2GD3' graphics card? I got the graphics card already, so I'd be hoping I wouldn't need to replace that too.

Also, thanks for telling me where the processor is. Now I know ^^List of CPUs compatible with P8H61-M LX3 PLUS R2.0 motherboard

http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/list.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=P8H61-M%20LX3%20PLUS%20R2.0

As for GigaByte GA-H61MA-D2V 2.1M motherboard, contact manufacturer or check website.

Asus GT640-2GD3 graphics card is a PCI Express 3.0 card, and both those boards have compatible slots as far as I can see.

You should read this: basically, all I have been doing is Googling for those product DETAILS and reading the results. You really need to be doing your own research; it's your money that you plan to spend, and if you are serious about doing an upgrade, then you should be asking these questions on more specialised forums such as Asus or Gigabyte where you have some chance of getting answers from people who have actually done what you are asking about. Also you may get better tips on things to look out for.

You may end up having to change the power supply, you will certainly have to reinstall Windows, and if it is an OEM version it probably won't activate and you will need to budget for that as well.






Quote from: Sandfyre on June 16, 2013, 02:59:02 AM

Okay, thanks for that.

That helps. Really. Now I know what I'll do.

Last bit of advice, if I may.

If I bought this, an 'ASUS P8H61-M LX R2.0 Socket1155 DDR3', or 'GigaByte GA-H61MA-D2V 2.1M', would they be compatible with the processor mentioned, as well as a 'Asus GT640-2GD3' graphics card? I got the graphics card already, so I'd be hoping I wouldn't need to replace that too.

Also, thanks for telling me where the processor is. Now I know ^^

This is a reference for HOME BUILDERS who want to know more about PCs built about ten years ago. It is a list of related documents.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PC_97 <-link to full text.
Quote

....
a series of hardware design requirements and recommendations for IBM PC compatible personal computers, compiled by Microsoft and Intel Corporation during 1997–2001. They were aimed to help manufacturers provide hardware that makes best use of the capabilities of the Microsoft Windows OPERATING system, and to simplify setup and use of such computers.
....

it is my gpu, right?... i have a ud3 gigabyte motherboard WITHOUT onboard video, i TRIED with both my pci16 slots and i have the same beeping with both, im going to buy a new video card, but i want to be 100% sure about it... so... 1 long beep and 2 SHORTS = bad video card, right?Depends on which BIOS it's using...

Beep Codes...award bios, its a gigabyte ud3 990That would REPRESENT a video card yes, before replacing it you should try RESEATING the card and if that fails, clean the contacts with some rubbing alcohol. I'd also see if you can try a different card in your machine or try your card in a different machine.

I'm buying a printer and this is subject for heavy usage. I am a student and would print a LOT of handouts and documents for research almost everyday, my mom works at an office and would also print 100 pages several times a week, my brother also is printing his ebooks instead of getting the original copy of the book. Basically I would want a printer that could be ABLE to print fast and could last long with daily use and probably a thousand pages a week.

When it comes to printers, my mom would say I should get an HP printer b ut reviews would tell me that Canon printers are the best. Any advise from your own experience about these two brands will really be appreciated. My mom have already told me to get this "]HP Color LaserJet Pro 400 from that site but I am LEANING towards Canon imageCLASS D320 on Amazon. Hod do you think could I convince her to get the Canon and ignore HP?I can certainly vouch for HP's LaserJets, while HP's newer InkJets are pretty poor, their laser printers are still great and very reliable, I have a LaserJet 4050 that is coming up for 14 years old and still works perfectly. It has printed more than 95,000 pages over its lifetime (Used to be used in an office).

Then again, if you need all-in-one features, then the Canon would be a BETTER option.Do you have to have color ? ?
If not a laser monochrome is a real workhorse.

Ive been tied up with other things guys, but all your suggestions are well taken. No I cant see any light at all from the display not even by shining a flashlight, so its evident that the VIDEO capabilities of the LAPTOP dont work. But Im just wondering what HAPPENED, why this suddenly started happening. Anyways, MAYBE its time to junk this computer.

Hey there, Im planning on building my own gaming desktop, and I wanted your opinions on what you think of my specs.

G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL

EVGA 02G-P4-2678-KR GeForce GTX 670 FTW 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

CORSAIR HX Series HX750 750W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply

Rosewill BLACKHAWK Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case, come with Five Fans, window side panel, top HDD dock

ASUS P8Z77-V LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

Intel Core i5-3350P Ivy Bridge 3.1GHz (3.3GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 69W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80637i53350P

Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 ST3000DM001 3TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive

LG Black 12X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM SATA Internal 12X Blu-ray Combo Drive Model UH12NS29 - OEM

windows 8 64 bit fullThat looks REALLY good, just a couple of pointers.

• The 750w PSU is overkill, for that you would be more than fine with 650w (I'd stick with the Corsair HX series though, they are great!) - I run an HX650W on my machine (see specs in my profile on left) and it has been running fine for almost a year!
• Intel have just released their new 'Haswell' chips so look into replacing the CPU and motherboard with them
• You have a non-overclockable CPU paired with an overclockable chipset. While this will work fine, if you plan on overclocking you will need a 'k' series CPU, if you don't plan on overclocking you can happily drop down to a 'H' series Chipset
• ALSO, if your budget allows it you may want to consider adding an SSD, while it won't directly relate to performance in games, it will vastly help loading times and make the whole machine feel 'snappier'

Hey there, Im planning on building my own gaming desktop, and I wanted your opinions on what you think of my specs.

G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL

ASUS GTX660-DC2O-2GD5 GeForce GTX 660 2GB 192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX650 V2 650W ATX12V v2.31/ EPS12V v2.92 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC High Performance Power Supply

Rosewill BLACKHAWK Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case, come with Five Fans, window side panel, top HDD dock

ASRock Z75 Pro3 LGA 1155 Intel Z75 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

Intel Core i5-3350P Ivy Bridge 3.1GHz (3.3GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 69W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80637i53350P

Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 ST3000DM001 3TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive

LG Black 12X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM SATA Internal 12X Blu-ray Combo Drive Model UH12NS29 - OEM

windows 8 64 bit full

Current setup right now.

Intel's Haswell chips are now out so I suggest you move to them (you would also need a different motherboard). Also, if you are going for a 'Z' chipset, you will need a 'k' CPU in order to get the overclocking ability that the chipset offers, otherwise you may be able to get a cheaper 'H' chipset if you don't plan on overclocking.

Greetings CH!

I have a Toshiba Satellite L650D and recently due to its Slow Performance in windows 7 I purchased win8 and installed it. Right away i noticed a difference. The computer runs much more faster. However it still seems to lag and shutter a bit. I installed a Gadget on the desktop showing CPU and GPU speeds and so on. However i noticed that my CPU is running at 800MHz-1200Mhz only. The CPU im using is the AMD Athlon(tm) ll P340 Dual CORE CPU that is to be clocked at 2.2Ghz. anyways i figured maybe this is why my system is so slugish. my Previous system was a P4 3GHz with a 1mb cache winning 7 and it did better then this! Is there any way i can crank the CPU to run at least at 2Ghz? i need the speed. Thanks
my specs are
AMD Athlon(tm) ll P340 Dual Core CPU 2.2Ghz
4Gb DDr3 RAm
500GB 7200RPm seagate drive
Ati mobility Radeon HD 4200 Series
Win 8 Pro
If you go into the BIOS and disable the Cool n' Quiet feature .... this will suck down the battery life though running the CPU full power. Unless there is a need to have it running full bore frequency its best to keep Cool n' Quiet enabled as for if the laptop is running anything that it needs the full use of the CPU for, it will run at 2.2 Ghz for as long as needed, and when not needed it will bring the frequency back down to around 25% of 2.2Ghz.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cool'n'Quiet

*Also Cool n Quiet is named as such because it allows for the computer to run cooler and quieter when idle. If the laptop was at full frequency of 2.2Ghz the laptop will run hotter and could be noisier with fans funning 100% speed to keep cool.

I have tested my AMD systems with these processors with Cool n Quiet enabled and disabled and I did not notice any performance gain by running the CPU 100% frequency all the time. In less than a second it will jump from say 780Mhz to 2600Mhz without any noticable lag in performance.

AMD CPU List tested with Cool n Quiet Eanabled/Disabled:
Sempron 140 x1 2.7Ghz ( single-core )
Sempron 145 x1 2.8Ghz ( single-core )
AMD Sempron 2200 x2 2.08Ghz ( dual-core )
AMD Athlon 4450B x2 2.3Ghz ( dual-core )
AMD Athlon 4850E x2 2.5Ghz ( dual-core )
AMD Athlon II 620 x4 2.6Ghz ( quad-core )

Intel also has this same technology which is called Speed-Stepping! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SpeedStep
*I have a Toshiba Netbook with Intel ATOM 1.66Ghz CPU and SpeedStepping allows for it to achieve up to 9 hours of battery life. If I disable speed stepping, the battery life drains far faster 4 or 5 hrs and its drained.Your CPU is slowing down when it isn't being demanded to save power, this is by design. Try running something CPU heavy and take a look at the speed, it should jump up automatically. If it does not you may want to check for dust in cooling system as the machine may be running at a lower clock speed to prevent it from overheating.Thank-you both for your quick replies. I cant believe i didnt come to that conclusion. Yes as soon as i run grand theft auto san andreas or itunes or anything else the clock speed jumps back up. The battery on the device wont go LONGER then half an hour but its usually plugged in anyways. I didnt find any settings in the bios to change from cool n quiet to full tilt. I found those settings on my other desktop but not on this model. Thanks for your help but i guess this cpu isnt gonna run anyfaster then this. Is there anyway of boosting the graphics? Or whats the story bebind that? In Windows XP, Windows 7, and I should think Windows 8, there is a Control Panel applet called Power Options or Power Schemes and you can select a power profile for the CPU - Max power savings, Balanced, or Full Power, and you can create a custom power scheme and set max and min percentages that the CPU will step up or down to. If you go for 100% all the time you should not see the clock go down from max.
As to the other query in most cases NOTHING can be done with the graphics...you're pretty much stuck with what it is...Most laptops Do NOT allow for upgrading the GPU, however there were some higher end laptops that came with the ability to do so as well as laptops that have "socketed APU's" may be upgradeable if the main board supports an upgrade to a better faster APU.

Here is a link to a video card that is intended for a laptop video card upgrade, however the laptop that can take this video card likely cost in excess of $1300 when purchased new. http://www.ebay.com/bhp/hd3650-mxm-ii

For your model, I am not aware of any upgrade path for its GPU as for it was never intended to be upgraded by design. Here is info on your GPU http://www.notebookcheck.net/ATI-Mobility-Radeon-HD-5650.23697.0.html

I have yet to find a laptop that is a good choice for long term use with video games. I have a Toshiba Satellite with Athlon II x2 2.5Ghz running Windows 7 32-bit on 3GB RAM and 320GB hard drive, and it cost me $429 in November 2009. The fact that it came with the Radeon GPU for gaming back then and $429 price tag was great, however as of 2011 just 2 years later it was already starting to show that it was starting to overwork to keep up with games such as World of Warcraft that went through a major graphics facelift which demands even more processing power. On this laptop I ended up having to cut back on the video settings to get by from High settings in 2009 to Normal settings in 2011 and now in 2013 when playing WoW on it I have to run on Fair settings to keep the 20+ frames per second. I also own GTA San Andreas, but i havent tried that on this laptop. This laptop was purchased mainly for being able to game while out on business trips from hotels, and it has served this purpose well, but in a year or two I may need to buy another more powerful laptop and sell this one to someone who doesnt game anything more complicated than Facebook games..LOL Also when gaming on my Toshiba Satellite there is tons of heat roaring out the vent. I made the mistake of having a small pile of hershey kisses off to my left side by the vent the one night and when I went to go grab a hershey kiss I was quickly surprised with liquid chocolate in foil and they were a good 4 inches away from the laptop vent..LOL With that kind of heat rushing out the side of the laptop I figure its only a matter of time before I cook the laptop even with the fans functioning correctly. I have cooked laptops in the past with games, a Pentium M Toshiba melted down, and a Core 2 Duo IBM Thinkpad melted down both when gaming and playing iTunes at the same time for background music. Those 2 were the companies computers so it was an oops... I guess I accidentally cooked it and, ok I need a new laptop moment on laptops that were less than a year old each.

I'm stuck with a bit of a dilemma here. Someone has asked me to recommend new parts for their computer. (Virtually the whole thing is changing so no worries about compatibility)

I've come up with two processer candidates but I'm not sure which to go with. AMD's FX-8350 or Intel's i5-4670.

- They are similar price (all of £12 difference)
- The AMD outstrips Intel on paper, but their actual performance is about on par.
- The AMD excels at multi-threading
- The Intel excels at single threaded programs
- The Intel has onboard graphics whereas the AMD has no graphics. But will the onboard be good enough?
- The Intel has a lower power consumption.
- I know the AMD comes with a decent stock cooler. Where as Intel have a bad reputation for this (an ironic switch).

The computer is mainly general use (browsing, casual games, etc) but is also used for 'real' games. I'm looking to build something powerful yet practical, something to last.

I'm leaning towards the Intel but I haven't "lived with one", I already use a FX-8350 and I am impressed. But if anyone has a Intel i5-4670 please give me your review.
I would go with the Intel without a doubt. While the FX looks great on paper, the performance isn't great and it takes an insane amount of power, 125w vs the Intel that takes just 84w. The stock cooler on the Intel chip will work fine at stock speeds since the chip produces less heat than the AMD. The only thing to remember with Intel is that if you ever plan on overclocking, you'll need the 4570k.

I've not yet used any of Intel's new 'Haswell' CPUs but I have used both i5 3570k and an i7 3770k (My CPU) and they have been great.Quote from: camerongray on June 17, 2013, 08:20:19 AM

I would go with the Intel without a doubt. While the FX looks great on paper, the performance isn't great and it takes an insane amount of power, 125w vs the Intel that takes just 84w. The stock cooler on the Intel chip will work fine at stock speeds since the chip produces less heat than the AMD. The only thing to remember with Intel is that if you ever plan on overclocking, you'll need the 4570k.

I've not yet used any of Intel's new 'Haswell' CPUs but I have used both i5 3570k and an i7 3770k (My CPU) and they have been great.

This processor is a beast! The stock cooler is COMICAL, don't bother using it, get something better (like the Corsair Hydro Series H80i, if you aren't going for insane over clocking) because the fan is both noisy and inefficient. If you MUST stick with the stock cooler, SCRAPE off the paste that comes with it and get a decent thermal compound!

...Does anyone have any experience with the onboard graphics? If they are good then that will be the deal clincher. (Especially as I would like to avoid the add thermal dissipation considerations of a dedicated graphics card).

Lol no worries on that front, I would have to explain what over clocking was first to the person I'm recommending this to.

I have never quite understood the point of over clocking new PC's, If you have just bought yourself a Ferrari why add nitrous? Why would you ever need to go that fast?

A problem that you can get with stock coolers, not always though, is that they just about cover stock speed with very little room for overhead. I have seen a few i7 reviews claiming that the cooler is and I quote:

This was a customer review of an i7-4770K. The impression that he gives me is that the cooler is bare minimum at best. In fact I have noticed recently that Intel is not including stock coolers with every CPU.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Does anyone have any experience with the onboard graphics? If they are good then that will be the deal clincher. (Especially as I would like to avoid the add thermal dissipation considerations of a dedicated graphics card).

This was a customer review of an i7-4770K. The impression that he gives me is that the cooler is bare minimum at best. In fact I have noticed recently that Intel is not including stock coolers with every CPU.

The onboard graphics on Haswell chips are great for onboard graphics and can handle light games but I would never use them in a machine designed for gaming.

This is mis-leading at best as they have always sold CPU's with or without the cooler...depending on what you wanna pay for...

I generally ignore reviews on retailer websites, the people writing them are just average people like you and I, not experts. I'd say Intel know a lot more about cooling their own CPUs than their customers

Yeah I've been looking at the performance, I don't think that I will get away with just the integrated graphics. Which brings me back to considering the FX-8350, as I won't be using Intel's integrated graphics why pay for them? (I'm talking about £12 here but that could go towards the expensive graphics card)

Yeah well I have an old AMD CPU which gets nail bitingly close to its maximum tolerance temperature at 100% load (about 2°C away), so excuse me for not trusting stock coolers. It wouldn't prevent me from trying the stock cooler I can assure you.

I'd still go down the Intel route, even if you aren't using the graphics, you will still get a better performing and much more power efficient CPU, you don't really pay much more for the onboard graphics.

Doesn't hurt to give the stock cooler a go, if it runs to hot then you can consider replacing it.

...they have always sold CPU's with or without the cooler...depending on what you wanna pay for...

What you pay for covers a wide spread. Some coolers are close to the price of the CPU it cools. Prices range from $6 up to $80 and maybe more.
Just one of many vendors selling cooling for Intel CPU :
http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/intel-socket-775-coolers.html

Maybe one should pick a cooler first,
then get a CPU to match it!

I have done extensive research into this, there is a reason why these two processors are under consideration. Personally I would say that both are on a par with each other, one does better multithreading whilst the other does single better. The only two trumps the Intel has is integrated graphics and low power.

Never the less I have finally decided to go with the Intel. Mr. Camerongray you have made the best argument possible and so I must defer to your superior judgement. My decision has nothing to do curiosity and I swear I'm not using the recipient of this computer as a guinea pig


On a side note: Wow! A Intel vs. AMD thread that didn't devolve into fan boy arguments

I have a 320G 2.5" drive formatted to Fat32 that I've been using with a SATA usb2 adapter for storage. I recently installed a USB3 PCIe card and a usb3 adapter. The drive was assigned the letter L and worked fine when I would connect it to transfer files with USB 2.0. Now with the USB3 it shows up as H and needs to be formatted. I tried changing the drive letter in disc management but it still shows up as a 32G active partition and the rest unallocated space. It still works fine when used with the old USB2 connection. I have googled the problem till I gave up and decided to cry for help. HELP
I'm using XPsp3 Have you checked the driver and firmware versions of your USB3 card? What make and model is it?I'm pretty sure that the PCIe card is working properly, as is the adapter. The

reason I believe this is this.. I also have a 1 terabyte 3.5" drive that I used with

the generic IDE/Sata usb2 adapter. When I decided to go USB3, I bought the

PCIe card and a Masscool USB3 external case for it. I had the same problem

with Windows seeing it as a 32G drive with the rest unallocated space. In that

case, I used Easus Partition Master to partition and format the drive after I

copied the ~50G of files to my internal drive. It took over a half-hour to transfer

the files with USB2. I connected the drive back up with the USB3 case and

transfered the files back onto it in under 10 minutes.I suppose I can do the

same with the 320G drive, but there's got to be a simpler way. I guess

Windows sees the hard drive/adapter as a package deal with emphasis on

the adapter. The USB3 ports work with all my flash drives and also with the

generic usb2 adapter at usb2 speed. anyway, this is the card I'm using;
SYBA USB 3.0 PCI-e x1 2.0 Card with 2 External ports and internal 19 Pin

USB 3.0 HeadModel SD-PEX20139. Device Manger shows it as Renesas

Electronics USB 3.0 Host controller. Thanks for any advice.Why is it formatted FAT 32 ? ?

Just curious...Thanks for posting.
These kind of things happen and when you try to tell somebody they think you are crazy or you are an idiot. Well I believe you. I have run into things like that even with just USB 2.0 because how the drive is partitioned.

It is, IMHO, not a USB 3 problem . Because I ran into that with just using the standard USB 2 adapters. It is something about the format and the hardware interface. I suspect doing partitioning again will change things.

BTW: The max speed if USB 2 is not really very slow. Just not very fast.

I agree that the card and enclosure are more than likely absolutely fine - it's just odd issues like this that you can sometimes run into, which a firmware or driver update can often resolve. Now that Intel do an onboard USB3 controller, I'd be happy to use that, but before that was released Renesas and NEC were the only major players in that market, and personally I always had better experiences with NEC chips - the downside is, they're not all that common.
Syba have "helpfully" provided some very low resolution pictures of the card on their site, and I can't see a mention of what actual chip it sues to guide you to a recent driver or firmware version to try. Whether or not they solve the problem, with the Renesas chips especially I always recommend to update those to AVOID compatibility, performance and reliability issues as much as possible. Again, I'm not saying the Renesas chips are bad though.

As for the above re: USB2 being slow - yes, it really is. It's 1/10 the speed of USB3. In terms of real world transfer speeds though when we're talking about external HDDs which can't take advantage of the full speed, we're still talking around 1/3 the speed of a HDD on USB3. USB2 has been a pain for years in that respect.Thanks for the input people. I was hoping for a simple solution to my problem that SOMEONE else had figured out already. I'm not a computer savvy guy yet, but I'm getting better all the time. . I formatted the entire disc with Fat32 so my Sony bluray player and my PS3 could read it. I haven't decided whether to format the disc, or to just keep using it with my USB2 adapter. I'll follow this post for awhile and see if anything comes up.Quote from: Calum on June 18, 2013, 01:06:36 PM

I agree that the card and enclosure are more than likely absolutely fine - it's just odd issues like this that you can sometimes run into, which a firmware or driver update can often resolve. Now that Intel do an onboard USB3 controller, I'd be happy to use that, but before that was released Renesas and NEC were the only major players in that market, and personally I always had better experiences with NEC chips - the downside is, they're not all that common.
Syba have "helpfully" provided some very low resolution pictures of the card on their site, and I can't see a mention of what actual chip it sues to guide you to a recent driver or firmware version to try. Whether or not they solve the problem, with the Renesas chips especially I always recommend to update those to avoid compatibility, performance and reliability issues as much as possible. Again, I'm not saying the Renesas chips are bad though.

As for the above re: USB2 being slow - yes, it really is. It's 1/10 the speed of USB3. In terms of real world transfer speeds though when we're talking about external HDDs which can't take advantage of the full speed, we're still talking around 1/3 the speed of a HDD on USB3. USB2 has been a pain for years in that respect.

1. NEC has been rebranded as Renesas.

2. My laptop has an onboard Renesas chip; my desktop has a PCI-e add-on card. The onboard USB3.0 is about 50% faster than the PCI-e card with the same WD1TB USB3.0 external HDD.

3. Real world transfer speed is about 2-3X from 2.0 to 3.0.

Resesas Drivers
https://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?DwnldID=19880

...Is that compatible with all NEC/Renesas chipsets? I'm just wondering because if it's for the uPD720200/a there are newer versions, and if it's for the uPD720201/2 the driver version doesn't seem to match up with what's available. I'm not trying to be picky, just trying to establish what hardware the drivers you linked to is for, for future reference.

Out of the blue my laptop stopped recognizing the dvd drive. The icon is gone from the "my computer" directory and it does not appear in the device manager. When I insert a disk I hear it spin and the light flickers but NOTHING happens. If I open a program that uses the drive such as a cd burner or dvd viewer it says that the cd/dvd drive is not installed.

Can anyone tell me what has happened and how to fix it? The laptop is a Compaq Presario v4000 running XP ThanksRemove it and re-seat it with power unplugged and the battery removed...
Laptop optical DRIVES HOWEVER fail normally with no warning so be prepared for worst case scenario...Thanks for the REPLY. How do I remove it?There should be a small release tab on the side by the DVD player...

Don't worry about the CPU you are just about at the recommended limit for to achieve the CPU's advertised lifespan.

I have totally run out of idea's on this problem I've been having. Completely randomly my computer will show a garbled image on the screen and reboot, it could be whilst playing a graphics intensive GAME or simply browsing on the internet. Also the amount of occurrences are random, some days it will do it several times other days not at all. I can't find a problem with anything and to be honest I've run out of ideas on what to check. I can't duplicate the problem at will and even if I could I have no way of recording what happened.

So far I can tell you what it's not:

An overheating issue (occurs at full and minimum load, also tested)
The graphics card directly [I still believe this to be at the core of the problem, although I don't know how] (I have run stress tests and a memory test all came back good)
RAM memory (stress tested and read/write test)
CPU (stress tested)
Hard drive (sea tools tested and wouldn't cause the problem anyway)

That leaves power, BIOS &/or motherboard, drivers, windows.

Any ideas on how to test a BIOS or what, if any, drivers are causing a problem? Or if anything else comes to mind. (It's my profile computer btw)
My Cmos battery is running a little low, but that wouldn't cause these sorts of problems would it?

Please help, this is driving me mental. Are you protected behind a UPS ( Battery Backup ) so that if you have any dips in power your system is not affected? Guessing you have looked in the bios at the voltages of your PSU to make sure they all look good and hold steady?

In the past I have had mainly power supply or dirty power (lack of UPS) cause reboots, but... the garbled graphics I have only seen in failing GPU's. If you have a spare video card you can try swapping it out, otherwise if your motherboard has integrated video, try that and see if you have different results... However games probably wouldnt run well or at all with integrated video.Forgive my lack of being very instructed in the IT or system units. Just a stab here, for sure. How about running a good malware, spyware, or virus scan? Hope you are not offended by the suggestion.
Den.I agree with [emailprotected]
If you don't find a solution after trying what nixie and [emailprotected] suggested you may want to start a new topic in the Computer viruses and spyware section.
Good luck.
Mike
See if you can divide the problem.
For example, boot the thing with a memory test program and see if it finds anything. It can take hours and hours. The memory test does not need Windows components. If it runs good, that wood indicate that it is not a hardware issue, at least not with the basic CPU and RAM operations.(Replies in no particular order.)

Quote from: [emailprotected] on November 08, 2011, 04:54:43 PM

Forgive my lack of being very instructed in the IT or system units. Just a stab here, for sure. How about running a good malware, spyware, or virus scan? Hope you are not offended by the suggestion.
Den.

I agree with [emailprotected]
If you don't find a solution after trying what nixie and [emailprotected] suggested you may want to start a new topic in the Computer viruses and spyware section.
Good luck.
Mike

See if you can divide the problem.
For example, boot the thing with a memory test program and see if it finds anything. It can take hours and hours. The memory test does not need Windows components. If it runs good, that wood indicate that it is not a hardware issue, at least not with the basic CPU and RAM operations.

Are you protected behind a UPS ( Battery Backup ) so that if you have any dips in power your system is not affected? Guessing you have looked in the bios at the voltages of your PSU to make sure they all look good and hold steady?

In the past I have had mainly power supply or dirty power (lack of UPS) cause reboots, but... the garbled graphics I have only seen in failing GPU's. If you have a spare video card you can try swapping it out, otherwise if your motherboard has integrated video, try that and see if you have different results... However games probably wouldnt run well or at all with integrated video.

Come to think of it this computer has a copy of XP x86, and i think that the problem doesn't occur whilst running that (however I don't run it frequently and even when I do, not for very long periods of time).

My computer (Shuttle SN78SH7, 4 GB DDR2 in 2 sticks) started do something very similar, quite often, and it turned out to be the RAM timings in the BIOS. The SDRAM Trfc setting to be precise. It was set to the shortest time possible 75 nS and I increased it to 105 nS and it's been OK for 6 months now. Some people on Shuttle boards said go further, to 127.5, but I am fine as I am. It seemed thermal related, in that heavy load and/or warm weather made it happen sooner, so I'm thinking the initial Trfc setting was very nearly OK for the sticks I am using and the extra heat was pushing the RAM to the edge. I'm not saying your instability is caused by exactly the same thing but BIOS RAM settings are something to think about especially in a case of occasional instability.

A warning to those using a USB to SATA and IDE converter
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/260456-32-warning-sata-converter
The full story is on Tom's Hardware. This is not new, but good to know.
Thanks for sharing. I have 3 of these. One of the originals which was just IDE for 2.5" and 3.5" drives on either side and 2 others which support SATA and both IDE drive connections.

One of my friends thought that it was cool to add another internal HARD drive by using one of these long term with a USB cable that popped out the rear of the computer and plugged into USB PORT, but was powered off of the P-Connector from PSU. He had a motherboard that only had 2 SATA ports on it and that only left 1 port for HDD and the other for the DVD-ROM.

I tried to convince him to just buy a PCI slot type SATA controller to add more SATA ports, but he DECIDED to beat me to it with this "MUCH slower" setup. Going to share this with him to make him aware of the potential for data loss.Surprise as JMicron controller causes problems
JMicron, Marvell, Via, Asmedia, et al are controllers I wouldn't even put an optical drive on. They're the first thing I disable in the BIOS on a build that has them, before even installing WINDOWS, due to their inconsistent performance and reliability.
I have (accidentally) bought bridges and add-on cards such as USB controllers and SATA cards with chips from the above, and returned them all without opening them to buy one using a different brand due to the problems I've had over the years with them.Quote

JMicron, Marvell, Via, Asmedia, et al are controllers I wouldn't even put an optical drive on.

Hi i have an Asus P8h77-VLE motherboard, and its got one of those little mettle PLATES on the back which keeps me from using my H40 CORSAIR LIQUID cooler. I was disappointed but don't WANT to buy a whole other motherboard. I've seen that the newer versions of this product don't need the X-like clamp on the back and it looks like my version could use what they use but it didn't come with it. I looked all over for a conversion kit or SOMETHING but couldn't find anything.....any suggestions?I'd contact ASUS Support on this, as for that looks to be the receiver for the 1155 socket from the images on http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131826

They may be able to direct you to a liquid cooler that doesnt conflict with this.

Running vista 32bit with 2 gigs of ram
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817148050
And this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161402&IsVirtualParent=1
I'm concerned about DRIVERS working and if they fit in the case.Impossible to say as i can't see the case from here...
Their ONLINE specs ain't real good...i WOULD take physical measurements.As patio said, you have to measure but they should work fine. All I would say would be to get a better PSU. 500w should be plenty but Apevia is a cheap, generic brand so quality won't be great which is very IMPORTANT in a PSU. I suggest you look at brands like Corsair or Seasonic as they make very good PSUs.Quote from: camerongray on June 20, 2013, 05:32:18 PM

As patio said, you have to measure but they should work fine. All I would say would be to get a better PSU. 500w should be plenty but Apevia is a cheap, generic brand so quality won't be great which is very important in a PSU. I suggest you look at brands like Corsair or Seasonic as they make very good PSUs.

Hello,

to the point, I'm no expert on these type of things and all the tech-data makes my head spin... I need a desctop PC for graphics and mobile app programming, OpenGL, OpenGL ES and Android...

The hardware which I've picked based on my $ flow is this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/90-MIBFV0-G0EAY00Z-Asus-M5A78L-LE-Motherboard-AM3-Socket-AM3-760G-780L-SB710-/321145430702

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMD-FX-Eight-Core-Processor-FX-8320-3-5GHz-AM3-Retail-Black-Edition-/190755482667

http://www.ebay.co.uk/ctg/Gigabyte-AMD-Radeon-HD-7870-2048-MB-GV-R787OC-2GD-Graphics-Card-/115187304

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CoolerMaster-Power-Supply-RS600-PCARE3-US-eXtreme-600W-ATX12V-V2-3-with-Fan-/271075270478?pt=PCA_UPS&hash=item3f1d585f4e

But with the different CPU sockets, overclocking, threading... that finds are just about as good as I'm able to ATM, can PLEASE someone suggest a better configuration or verify that this one works well?

Oh, and sorry for not writing about RAM or HDD / SSD or DVD-ROM, as for they are SECONDARY issues here.

Anyway, thanks a lot for your input and suggestions!
Let the force be with you all!

P.S. got me an answer via IRC, thank you Tim and Guitar If you already have an answer from IRC I won't comment further as I don't know exactly what has been said. All I will add is that I sincerely hope you didn't go with that power supply, it's not good at all. Hopefully the advice in IRC included changing this to SOMETHING of better quality.It would be good if you could post the specs that you have decided on before you buy them, There are many people here who also may be able to OFFER suggestions.You do realise by the way that some of those items are on US ebay and others UK. You will need to check the shipping & possibly make special requests to the sellers.

I use dell laptop N5010 with windows 7. I bought NEW pendrive sandisk cruzer blade. every time when I connect it to my laptop it does not appear in my computer. But it appears in devices and printers in control panel. There it shows option of brows files. when i SELECT that i get option of Removable disk H which is faint in color which means i can not use it.
If i uninstall drivers of pen drive and reconnect it then it installs DRIVER automatically and work properly. But next time same problem occurs.
Each time i need to uninstall driver. this problem was not there with my transcend pendrive.
Please guide me.I usually remove all bundled AUTORUN software that comes with pendrives. If you format it clean wiping out the sandisk autorun software that is wasting space on it anyways, you may be able to fix this.

1) Have you recently installed any new software?

2) Does the drive always show when a disc is inserted?

Make SURE you GET it from a retailer who will ACCEPT returns just in case the card isn't the PROBLEM (though it probably is).