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the quoted price of ibm x60 cost 1300 USD in China mainlandWhat is cheapest there? At LEAST you do not have to pay shipping! how MUCH is it? could you tell me your country?
Anywhere between 1400 to 2200 USD depending on what options you GO for...

patio. 8-)

Hi, all. I've done a few searches on these boards and haven't found the answer yet, so hopefully this isn't a repeated question. I have 6 DIY computer systems here. All run athlon xp 1800 CHIPS. Most of the computers have 80gb hard drives, 256 mb ram. I know, not the most sophisticated systems, but we use them in our office for word processing and database entry. I don't know what kinda of motherboard we're USING, but sound and video are OEM by the motherboard.

My problem is that i have gone through over a dozen power supplies in the past year and a half. Each one has burned up-- yes, you could smell it and see the open part of the fan discoloring from the heat. At first, as I hadn't replaced that many power supplies before, I thought possibly we were undersized on the power supply. We were using 230's before. Now we're up to 380's and they're still burning up. We've used powmax and chiefmax respectively.

Does anyone have any clue why this can be happening? None of the computers are being left in CONFINED or air-restricting places. Any help would be appreciated.

Thankshow many FANS are inside the PC?I have the cooling fan for the processor, that's all.get more fans. as many as you can fit inside. see if problem persists. Inside of computer is probably too hot.Install a case fan (for air intake) in each computer. Check out Antec PSU's, which generally have dual cooling fans in the PSU. Inexpensive PSU's, regardless of their rating, are poorly built and do not always provide the rated wattage. As a PSU heats up, its ability to provise the necessary current decreases. The Antec is stable over a wider temperature range is unlikely to fail unless it becomes extremely hot. I have an Antec 350 watt PSU that runs 24/7 for the last 4 years and not yet had a failure. The machine it is in is a loaded tower with with 3 HDD, 3 CD drives, zip and floppy, dual nic, agp video card, modem, plus some external peripherals.Hmm... so the case is getting too hot and burning up the power supplies? Does this mean that the cases we picked were junk? I built my first computer 7 years ago. This system is a whopping 800mhz p3 with cdrw, dvd rom, 2 40gb wd hard drives and 512 mb ram. I have never had an issue with this power supply, although it is a full ATX as opposed to the micro atx that i'm using on these other systems. Is the problem that I should not have gotten micro atx? that I got the wrong case? the system ran fine for about a year on powmax 230's before it bruned up, so it seems odd that the chiefmax's rated at 380w, even if underperforming, would still be having this issue.

I just need to check all my bases before I TAKE this to the bossman. I appreciate all the help...

Forgot this:

http://www.1coolpc.comit means you need more fans inside the cases. [highlight] (see 2k_dummy's post above)[/highlight]

It has to be a heat problem. A high quality PSU is essentil, as that is the heart of the computer. The CPU and other items are the brain and internal organs. Without a good heart, they just don't function properly. The fans are like air conditioning to the computer. Anything (including humans) will fail under excessive heat conditions.Thanks! This link isn't working, but I'll figure it out. I appreciate the help.

HELLO,

I NEED HELP.
I have bought a new machine this week.
My Configuration is

P4 3.06 HT processor
Intel D102G-GC2 motherboard
80 GB HDD
1 gb RAM
SONY DVD RW.

Now i m installing OS win-xp from bootable CD.
It is properly installed but when i insert any CD(Driver) I get an error
saying "F:\ is not a valid win32 application" F: is my DVD drive. I am able to access Audio cd
Able to see the content of CD, but if the CD is auto run than it wont work.Also not able to run any .exe file ex:setup.exe files. so please help me

My alternate ID is [emailprotected]

Please do reply...

Regards,
Chirag
What program are you trying to run from the CD ? ?

patio. 8-)OK, well since U say that NO MATTER what disk u put in the drive, u get the same error, im assuming that its not a problem with the files on the disks but with the hardware itself.

If u just bought this DVD-RW, did u install the latest drivers for it? Try installing those drivers and tell me if the problems persists. According to my calculations this is probably a driver problem, or the DVD-RW dosent work well and so u should exercise ur Warranty and get another one from the same place.

<--- Agrees with Track.

hi,, I hope someone can help me.. My COMPUTER is REALLY, REALLY slow... no matter if I am on the net OR just working on the desktop, it takes forever to do anything..

I have run all the diognostic, restore and clean up programs I can think of, but STILL no improvement...

I have xp, 3ghd, 256 ram.. not sure what else is needed but thats a start..

thankyou
vicky :-?Your hard disk is only 3 GB? Are you sure? Also, 256 is enough to slow a system down pretty well. What programs do you have running in the background while on the computer? Which antivirus protector do you have? Are you sure that you're virus FREE?

FlameQuote

Your hard disk is only 3 GB? Are you sure? Also, 256 is enough to slow a system down pretty well. What programs do you have running in the background while on the computer? Which antivirus protector do you have? Are you sure that you're virus free?

Flame

So, this spring I spilled water on my laptop. I opened everything up and dried it out for a day or two with a fan. When I put everything back together it worked pretty well except the left shift key stopped functioning. Everything has been fine since then until....my computer became completely non-functional YESTERDAY. When I try to click on anything it POPS up and then immediately disappears. The same thing happens if I use the keyboard to navigate. Shutting the computer down (which by the way took about 10 MINS) fixed the problem for a minute or two, but other than that I can't do anything with the computer. If anyone has any ideas of how I could fix this problem or why this would have happened I'd be very GRATEFUL. Thanks, Anna.

I guess it might ALSO be worth mentioning that a series of beeps are emitted when booting up. This happens sometimes, but not always.

Dell Inspiron 5100, 3.5 yrs oldQuote

So, this spring I [highlight]spilled water on my laptop[/highlight]. I opened everything up and dried it out for a day or two with a fan. When I put everything back together it worked pretty well except the left shift key stopped functioning. Everything has been fine since then until....my computer became completely non-functional yesterday. When I try to click on anything it pops up and then immediately disappears. The same thing happens if I use the keyboard to navigate. Shutting the computer down (which by the way took about 10 mins) fixed the problem for a minute or two, but other than that I can't do anything with the computer. If anyone has any ideas of how I could fix this problem or [highlight]why this would have happened [/highlight]I'd be very grateful. Thanks, Anna.

Can anyone offer a wireless novice some advice?

Having recently bought an Acer Aspire 5612WLMi laptop, I have got my hands on a Microsoft wireless notebook optical mouse 4000 v1.0 but am having problems with it.

I've tried the receiver in every available usb port and the mouse appears in 'mouse properties' in the control PANEL, but it doesn't want to work!

According to the device properties "the device is working properly", but the location is shown as "Location 0". Is this supposed to say that? No matter what I try I can't get it to work. Am I supposed to disable the touchpad or something first?

I've plugged in another wired usb mouse and that worked fine straight away. Is my wireless mouse faulty?

Thanks in advance for any help. I thought you were just supposed to plug it in and it would work!

Cheers,
The FoxAssuming your new wireless mouse is compatible with your operating system and you have followed the manufacturer's instructions for installing your device, correctly, you may need to look on the mouse, itself, for a "Connect" or "Reset" button.

If your mouse requires batteries...which is usually a gimme...make sure these are installed properly.

Try pressing the "Connect" or "Reset" button on the mouse and see if your mouse is now working.

Please let me know if this fixed your problem.Thanks for the tip but I've already tried this and still no joy. It's running on Windows XP Home, but I have ALSO just tried it on my old desktop (runnning windows 98se - hence the new laptop!) and the same thing happens there.

The batteries have been replaced (and the red LIGHT is fully on underneath the mouse).

I've also tried the connect buttons on both the receiver and the mouse but this hasn't changed anything either.

Before I plugged the mouse in I loaded up the software off the disk that came with it - could this have caused a problem?

I didn't put in my original post that under the mouse settings in control panel the touchpad is shown as "plugged into PS/2 port" under device properties, whereas the wireless mouse is still showing "location 0".

Any ideas?

The FoxThere are two things you may want to try...

1) Visit Windows Update for an updated driver for your device, or
2) Visit the following URL to download and install the LATEST software for your device: http://www.microsoft.com/hardware/mouseandkeyboard/DownloadResult.aspx?prod=m_wnom4000&os=xp⟨=en&driverVersion=IntelliPoint%205.5

Please let me know if any of the above have helped.wireless mice and KEYBOARDS are a bad idea, i just feel sorry for any idiot that tries to invent wireless electricity... can you say "crispy fried idiot"? Quote

wireless mice and keyboards are a bad idea, i just feel sorry for [highlight]any idiot that tries to invent wireless electricity[/highlight]... can you say "crispy fried idiot"?

Quote

wireless mice and keyboards are a bad idea, i just feel sorry for [highlight]any idiot that tries to invent wireless electricity[/highlight]... can you say "crispy fried idiot"?

Huh??!!??

I have a Monarch Computers custom system with a mitsumi 7 in 1 floppy drive and card reader. When I FIRST recieved the system, the Mitsumi drive was recognized with 2 removable hard drives listed in My Computer. At some POINT these drives disappeared. I opened the case and checked the pin hookup, removing and replacing the USB motherboard connection. After restarting the computer, everything was running fine.

However, 2 days after fixing the problem, I tried inserting a secure DIGITAL card, and the drive light came on, but didn't try to autorun. I opened the removable drive manually, and the computer hung for a long time, finally making the "ding-dong" sound signalling I had lost the usb connection, and the drives disappeared. What would cause the drive to intermittently drop like this?

I had a very long wait for this system in the first place, and when I finally did receive it it had a BAD ram chip, so I'm hoping to not have to send the drive back if it can be helped. When I reset the usb connectors, I moved the 4-pin from the top slot into the bottom, but i suppose that whole usb port might be bad... Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

Hi good day, i hope you can give me some opinion, while helping my aunt clean-up their old house I found an old hardisk; its a MAXTOR N256 I cant seem to find details of its Storage capacity (or i don't know how to look). Anyway My aunt gave it to me since it seems that she don't know were it came from (PROBABLY from one of her children). Anyway I want to test it by Installing it on my PC, what i want to know is by doing this what will it do to my PC? is it ok to remove the Functioning hardisk on my PC and put the Old hardisk that i found? what will happen to my functioning HD? will all the file be ERASED? do i have to reformat my functioning HD when I return it to my PC after testing the Old Hardisk that i found? Or will my PC simply be back on it original settings when I return the original hardisk installed? Hope you can advice me on this.

You cant remove ur current HDD, because it has Windows XP on it, and everything u have on ur PC is on it.
I mean u could remove it, but then ud have to install Windows on the "new" one.

What u must do, is check what KIND of connectors the HDD has, and wich ur motherboard has. Its probably IDE and so is ur current HDD. If u have only 1 HDD right now in ur PC then u could connect the "new" one as a slave to ur current one and that would work fine, or u could just connect it to any IDE connector if u have any EXTRA, but thats really a waste of space.

Your best option would be to leave the current HDD inside and just ADD the "new" one.. i mean its bolted in there. Do u even know how to install an HDD?

Also, the HDD that u found, has less then 10GB, probably 5 or 2GB. So its really not worth it.That is a 15 gig ATA-66 w meg cache 7200 RPM drive. You can jumper it as a slave (see attachment) and use it in your machine after formatting it. Assuming it is functional, you have room for it and connectors you get an extra 15 gig drive space.

http://www.maxtor.com/_files/maxtor/en_us/documentation/quick_specs/diamondmax_plus_40_ultra_ata_66_quick_specs.pdfGee Guys, thanks for the ADVICES that you have shared, Actually I'm not intersted in using the old HDD to put additional storage space to my current system, I'm however planning to use this old HDD (assuming its still functioning) in simulating a newly assembled PC system, I want to use it to practice and learn installing an OS and formatting an HDD. My current system already has 2 HDD's (master and slave). What will happen if i remove this 2 HDD's in my system? will this mess up my current PC's hardware and software setups?Just remove your hard drives and install the new one where the old master went, and jumper it accordingly to the picture I gave you. Make sure the hard drive info is correct in the BIOS.

You can replug your original drives when you are through playing. Be sure not to bend any pins while installing/uninstalling.

Hi, im new to this forum and I had a question about some new hardware... I recently installed a new pentium 4 3.0ghz processor a new asus P5ND2-SLI MOTHERBOARD and new ddr2 memory and since my old motherboard had an AGP slot and the new one is PCI Express I had to switch from a ATI Radeon X1300 AGP graphics card to a ATI Radeon X1300 PCI Express graphics card... once everything was installed im having trouble... it'll get to the WindowsXP loading screen then shut off and restart and do the same thing and keep doing it. A friend of mine was having the same trouble when they added a new processor and motherboard awhile back and they've GOT it fixed but i'm UNABLE to contact them right now so I was wondering if any of you knew what the problem was... ThanksDid you reinstall Windows after the new hardware was added?no, Windows is still installed it'll just get to the loading screen that pops up before you choose your user and just shut off and restart immediatelyIf you installed Windows with completely different hardware than what you are expecting it to run on you should not be surprised that it fails.

Some people try a repair install, but if it were me I would format the drive and reinstall Windows, without a doubt, every time.
The point being that u should format ur HDD segment that u have Windows installed on. Im going to do this very soon (once i choose with GFX card to buy) while installing a new motherboard. You must erase one segment of ur HDD (if ur HDD is seperated into SEGMENTS, such as C: and D: or more) and then u can install Windows again.

I will however try and re-install the new drivers of the new hardware and see if that does the TRICK because its possible that it will, but if it wont then its best to re-install Windows.Hey, just want to thank you guys for the help, I re-installed windows now im up and running with the new upgrades thanks alot!Glad you are all fixed up, and thanks for posting back. A good format and reinstall solves all Windows problems, for a while.

so i installed new ram in my laptop, and then powered it but now it wont boot. A white screen shows, and i get two short beeps
i have a pheonix bios but i DONT understand the codes to well, maybe someone can help me out.
what should i do?

p.s. i tried installing the original ram and the same thing happens now, so im pretty positve that it doesnt have to do with the new ram i installed.

Comp specs
Dell Inspiron 8000 PIII 800mhz
ram 512MB pc100 SDRAM
xp pro SP2Two short beeps is the AMI BIOS audio code for a memory parity error. I believe AMI bought out Phoenix, so this might apply to your BIOS as well.

Try to remove all but one RAM stick and reboot. If there is no error, add a second RAM stick and reboot. When you get the audio error, you have found the bad (or incompatible) RAM stick. Replace it.

Docthe comp was working perfect until i swapped the ram chips, but i took out the new ram and reinstalled the orginal ram that i used before, and it still gave me the same error msg.

so what do i do about a memory parity error?Make sure you installed the RAM correctly. You have to press them firmly until they push into place, but do not push too hard. Also, it is hard to do, but not impossible: Do not put them in the wrong way. See this site:

http://www.pcnineoneone.com/howto/memory1.html

Also, here is some info on purchasing the correct RAM:

http://www.pcnineoneone.com/howto/moreram1.html

If you have installed them correctly, chances are you damaged the RAM sticks. Static electricity (or ESD, which is that LITTLE shock you feel when you rub your feet on a carpet and then try to pet your cat) will permanently damage RAM, expansion cards and motherboards. It is a good idea to place the RAM sticks on paper (not plastic or metal) and to ground yourself by using a static strap or touching a metal surface before touching the memory modules.

Well here is EXACTLY what you should have used:

http://www.crucial.com/store/listparts.asp?Mfr%2BProductline=Dell%2BInspiron&mfr=Dell&tabid=AM&model=Inspiron+8000+Series&submit=Go

What exactly did you get (not just the speed please!) and where did you get it?

What was in there originally and what did you try to replace it with?Good Google, GX!

8-)the 'crucial' link says i need pc133, but i initially had pc100 installed and the computer worked fine :-?

Memory Capacity: (1) 256MB
Module Type: 144-pin Sdram Sodimm
Data Rate: PC100, 3.3 Volts
Organized as: 32M x 64, (16x16) , 8 chips
Condition: New - BRAND (Kingston, Micron)
Equivalent to OEM part #: 311-4072

this is the auction where i got the ram
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=018&item=280011054858&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1
Well it is either an incompatibility or bad RAM.

It looks like the seller will let you return so I would go for that.

Crucial offers a reasonable price (not as cheap as what you paid) but lifetime warranty, quick SHIPPING and guaranteed compatibility. I think I would just get something that's guaranteed to work.

Here is your machine if you ever need the info.

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/plav/sm/index.htmQuote

the 'crucial' link says i need pc133, but i initially had pc100 installed and the computer worked fine :-?

...

Is there anything I can do to my wireless D-Link router to decrease lag? Cause when I play cod2, I lag almost EVERY 15 seconds.. and when I plug my computer straight into my modem.. its great.. this lag all started happening like 4 days ago before that my router worked fine. I am wired to a wireless router cause it has RJ45 ports if you want wired. Ive tried resetting it to default and everything.. but it just doesnt do anything. Is there anything I can do to my router to help with this annoying lag?Are you using ADSL and also getting poor telephone audio? If so, call the local telecom company to TEST your signal. If it is an exterior line problem, they can replace the phone line and greatly increase your bandwidth. If it is an interior wiring problem, you can have someone replace the phone wiring in your home.

If you are using a cable modem, your bandwidth is limited by the number of people in your AREA using the cable network. The more people online in your neighborhood, the slower your speed will be. In this case, try going online early in the morning or later in the evening, as fewer users will be competing for bandwidth.

Try connecting your PC or laptop directly to the router with a CAT 6 network cable to the RJ-45 port, as wired (Ethernet) networking is often faster than wireless.

DocMy pc is wired, and I have a DSL modem.
The lag completely stops when I plug my RJ45 straight into the modem, its just when I plug it into my router it lags..Some games require special handling through a router. I'm not familiar with D-Link, but my Linksys has a page under port forwarding where you can SET it up for special applications. You enter the name of the application and the ports required, check the protocols (tcp/ip and/or udp) and forward to your internal address. Sometimes, if the application uses odd packets, disabling SPI will help. I would not RECOMMEND disabling SPI unless absolutely necessary.well, i had the ports forwarded cause i used to run a cod2 server on my computer, but idk ill do re-do it since i reset my router.k well i forwarded the ports and it was great for about 30min to an hour.. then it started back up again.um, ok the ports are forwarded and it still lags.It's possible your router has a built-in hardware firewall, which will protect your computer but slow things down. You might be able to shut the firewall off on the router using software installed on your PC with the disc that came with it, but i would not recommend this.

Doc

I have just fixed the screen on my old IBM Thinkpad 240 and now want to update the OS from Win95 to either Win XP or Linux but I have a problem.

I have an external CDROM drive that works perfectly when windows is booted yet I cannot get it to be installed when booting. This is stopping me from installing a new OS. I've upgraded bios etc and tinkered with the Autoexec and configsys files but still no luck.

Can anyone help?

Many thanksWhat's wrong with the internal drive? Is the external one "PLUG and play"?

FlameSome things to keep in mind once Flame helps you get the external drive to work:

Since you had Windows 95 on the computer, you cannot upgrade directly to Windows XP. You must either upgrade to Windows 98 and then upgrade to Windows XP, or use a full installation Windows XP CD and reformat the drive (losing all your documents, etc.):

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/292607/

The computer with Windows 95 must be old and, therefore, the hardware might not be COMPATIBLE with Windows XP. Check the Windows Catalogue to be sure, and REPLACE any drives, expansion cards, etc. that are not compliant:

http://www.microsoft.com/whdc/hcl/default.mspx

Also, make sure your old PC meets the minimum requirements to run Windows XP:

http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/home/upgrading/sysreqs.mspx

Best regards,
Doc

PS. Good to see you again, Flame!
8-)


And if the machine is that old it will NEVER boot from an external CDROM. Never.

So you have several issues to deal with. That machine is over 6 YEARS old and no doubt does NOT have enough RAM for XP to be pleasant. You didn't say, so convince me I'm wrong.Thanks for the replies.

The Thinkpad does not have an internal CDROM drive. Both the 4.25" and CDROM are connected to external ports. The 4.25" is connected through it's own port whilst the CDROM is connected through PCMCIA card. The attached image should help explain.

As for Win XP issues I'm sure your right. My ideal upgrade is to load Linux onto the laptop but as things are getting increasingly 'tricky' I'll be happy to get anything working.

Thanks again.Cool. Keep it in good working condition and it might appraise for some high value on the Antiques Road Show some day!

I am having unusual problems regarding ocassional video card issues ( kicking to desktop during 3D applications) and today my comp rebooted itself. I checked the PS voltage and everything looks normal except for the +12V reads +10.43V. Is that an acceptable varience? I have another PS that reads +11.07. Ive read where ANYTHING over a .25 vareince indicated a bad PS. Is this true?I have an Antec True Power supply & it's book says...

At peak load +12V output regulation +/-10%.

You could be on the EDGE but if I were you I'd check my RAM first.
http://www.memtest86.com/

I'm having some really weird keyboard troubles, My keyboard seem to have it's keys "cross-linked" with other functions.

For example, I have a mute button on my keyboard that mutes all sound via the volume control in the bottom right tray.

For the last couple weeks, it just randomly started one day, my Up arrow now mutes all audio the same way and still moves things up, and same with the mute key, it ACTS as an up arrow while still muting audio.

I also have a few more media keys, forward, BACKWARD, play/pause, volume up and down, and stop.

The Play/pause button acts as my numlock key and vice versa again.

I've reinstalled drivers for the keyboard, but they did nothing. I really don't KNOW what's causing this issue other than a major hardware malfunction. Any ideas?

It's not a big keyboard, just a CHEAP one that CAME with an HP computer, Keyboard model :Hewlett Packard SK-2560

Running Windows XP Home Edition.If uninstalling the drivers didn't fix it try another PS/2 keyboard. If it works fine, you need a new keyboard. Put this misery behind you and get a new one. THey are real cheap.

You can run your virus and spyware scans first, ir you like, but this ismechanical, in the absence of major system changes - hardware or software.

anyone out there please help me my COMPUTER doesn't boot

these are the MESSAGES:

press F2 to continue
select last good known configuration
0612 error configuration

i have tried some solutions but still it doesn't work.
I can't quite see it from here. Could you post the computer or MOTHERBOARD make/model, CPU, RAM, HARD drives, operating system?

Lets assume XP. Is Servive Pack 2 applied? All Microsoft updates? Is it a legal version?

What happened preceeding this? Any playing about inside the case or messing with the BIOS? What do you think happened? Are you the only one using the computer?

You MENTIONED thingw were tried? What and by whom? What happened there?

Just a few minor things like that. See below.

Dear Friends.
HELLO TO ALL
I HAVE A HARD DISK OF SEGATE CO.4OGB. FRIST A PERSON MADE MY HARD DISK PARTITIONS. THAT WAS RONG SO I MAKE IT AGAIN PARTITION BY THE FDISK COMMAND BUT IT WAS NOT WORKING. THEN I MADE IT AGAIN NOW HARD DISK DETECTING IN ONLY MY COMPUTERS SETUP. I HAVE DELL 500MHZ. AND PARTITION NOT WORKING AND SCREEN BLANK AND SYSTEM SHOW MY HARD DISK ONLY IN MY COMPUTERS SETUP. PLEASE TEL ME HOW CAN I REPAIR IT. BECAUSE ONLY ITS SHOWN IN BIOS. PLEASE HELP ME TO MAKE ITS PARTITION AGAIN. IT HAVE ALSO BAD SECTORS
WITH TAHNKS
JAMEEL AHMED SIDDIQUIFirst of all.. did u format ur hard disk after making partition with FDISK Command..

if u din, then it will not show u the partition..

if u have formatted then go further

U din tell wat is the modle no of ur hard disk..

is the hard disk is new or already OS installed???

If not check the hard disk with the hard disk utillity which is available in the following site..

http://www.seagate.com/support/disc

if the report is ok..

then the way u partition is wrong..

UPDATE me after checking..
RAIS i know your trying to help , but would you mind Speaking in English.

The Steps for Setting up a Disk are

1st Partition it, unless you have any plans to do some thing Fancy, just make one Big Partition
You can either do this in Fdisk By booting off a Floppy and Running Fdisk. and following the Steps to make a primary Partition
Or you can Do it in Windows Disk manager (if its a Second Disk) Disk manager is in Computer management, which is in Admin tools , in Control PANEL
Control Panel> Admin tools> Computer management> Disk manager

Second Format it
From the boot Floppy Type "Format " If its the one and Only Partition in your Machine it will be C: so Format C:
From Windows Right Click on the disk and Click Format

Well... I have a DELL desktop and a Toshiba laptop.The Dell Desktop has broadband- wire less Internet. I have a router. The Internet CONNECTION is self-start as the computer starts. Now, I would want to connect the Internet to Laptop. I do not want to have to start the desktop to access Internet on the laptop. The laptop has a dial-up internal modem.What should I do.

As well.. I wouldn't reject a wireless networking for the laptop ,however, would want suggestions for the cable networking as well.

Thank youIf it is wireless, then you have a wireless router? You can PLUG the laptop into that with a cable or get a wireless card and USE that.You might like to read the networking FAQ. Follow the link in my signature.

ye jus need 2 find the time to go to the shops an get 1... been workin arse off lately.

was plannin to do that now.

al keep you up 2 date, thanks for all the help so FAR ppl.that thermal compound thing worked kinda, the game works for a lil while but then sometimes it stil manages to OVERHEAT or summit n then turns itself off

Quote

What did you learn from the rest of the link I SENT you? WHat if you remove the side panel and blow a fan directly in there to reduce HEAT. Try to game andsee if that helps?

While in there make sure all of the other fans are working.

the card is likely 8x, but your board probably only supports up to 4x.

It may be a defective card. Did it ever work? If not, can you just try it in a griend's computer that is operational to test the card? You need to remove all of the variables except one at a time.

It may be the voltage that is unusable with that newer card.What about the power supply. How much power does that video card require? that is a 7 year old power supply, right? Best Buy does not put name brand PSU's in their house brands (never have because of the cost) Do you have a voltmeter or a power supply tester?

What caused the machine to be in the closet for that period of time? Were there issues with it?

Let me know and we will go from there.

GX1_Man

Welcome,
i am posting for some expert help because of the following problem:´
I have a Toshiba LAPTOP sattelite l650-107 wich has currently a not working left mouse key, i thought at first that this could be deal to an hardware problem, the mouse simply broke or something, but then the double click function ( on the mouse pad) wich has been working SINCE i remenber stopped working at the same time as the key while the pad itself still works ( i can move the cursor arround).
I have checked the double click function, i have update the drives, i uninstall de device in manager control ( wich reinstalled it on restart), i have reversed buttons, and still the double click didn't worked...
I can't EXPLAIN why doesn't the double click works when the pad is working... And that makes me wonder if the non functional key+ the double click aren't both software problems instead of hardware?
I just want a final answer, is it or is it not a hardware problem?



(Sorry for my ENGLISH)

Thanks

Ps: I am using Windows 7 in a 64 bits system ( if it helps)
Have you connected a USB mouse to this laptop to see if the left-click works with a different mouse?This for reference:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double-click
Quote

... Another complication lies in the fact that some systems associate one action with a single click, another with a double click, and yet another with a two consecutive single clicks. Even advanced users SOMETIMES fail to differentiate between these properly. An example is the most common way of renaming a file in Microsoft Windows. A single click highlights the file's icon and another single click (on the filename, not the icon) makes the name of the file editable....

Have you connected a USB mouse to this laptop to see if the left-click works with a different mouse?

This for reference:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double-clickAlso, the MS KB has information on how to alter or modify the mouse actions.
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/266738

No need to be condescending when recieving help...
Sounds like it's an actual hardware issue to me such as worn contacts or damage from spilled liquid or excessive heat.
You'll have to weigh the value of the laptop to the cost of repairs to decide what's next...

Three weeks ago a POWER surge apparently got the mother BOARD on my PC. I have since replaced the computer but I am having trouble now with our Okidata printer C5500n color LASER (which we don't use all the time) While USING a temporary computer, it came up as an USB device not being recognized. I thought that it was that particular system as we have had trouble with it. But I received my new system which is a Dell Vostro 220 and this system gives me the same error. I have tried different USB cables, used the original installation CD for the printer but the system will not recognize it. All other USB devices are working fine. The printer also powers up correctly.

What I was wondering is if the USB port in the printer itself can be replaced?http://my.okidata.com/pp-C5500n.nsf/openingdrivermenu?OpenFrameSet
Try those

I want to upgrade to Gigabit ethernet and I need to know if adding a Gigabit PCI or PCI Express 1X Ethernet card will void the warrenty in my Dell PC. I bought it a few months ago and I can build a PC.
You'll probably have to contact Dell Customer Service or Support to inquire about their POLICIES on adding hardware to the system while under warranty.Dont they usually have some sort of sticker on the side panel that says warrenty void if removed? If it doesnt, then go ahead, and if it ever breaks, then take it out and send it back.That's a good point, too. I SPENT just a few minutes on the Dell site, but couldn't find anything specific. It may be there, but I couldn't find it in a short amount of time. Contact Dell, so you'll know where you stand before you do anything.

Do you have access to true gigabit Ethernet if you INSTALL the card?

From wikipedia: Quote

There are four different physical layer standards for gigabit Ethernet USING optical fiber (1000BASE-X), twisted pair cable (1000BASE-T), or balanced copper cable (1000BASE-CX).

Dont they usually have some sort of sticker on the side panel that says warrenty void if removed? If it doesnt, then go ahead, and if it ever breaks, then take it out and send it back.

You'll probably have to contact Dell Customer Service or Support to inquire about their policies on adding hardware to the system while under warranty.

Hello;
Dave here, and I am having issues with video capture not working. I installed Pinnacle Studio 9 with the Movie Box USB device. Now, it worked in my old E Machine computer, which died. I rebuilt a NEW one with an ATI Radeon X-1300 series graphic card. It has not worked since then. The error MESSAGE I get is that it does not see any devices hooked up to the computer. Any ideas?

Thanks!
Davekb9mnm, Welcome to the CH forums Dave. A little suggestion first before we move on to your problem. Not a good idea to post your email address on the forums--nasties might find you and come after you. Now the problem --what is the hardware device that you are trying to use to do this video capturing and how are you connecting it to your computer? truenorth
P.S. For what it is worth see what others have to say about this product. http://www.videohelp.com/capturecards/pinnacle-studio-moviebox-usb/281
I now see that the actual "hardware is the "Movie Box USB device"
Have you tried it in more than one USB port?
Have you loaded the drivers for the hardware? (in the PRESCRIBED order).
It is now on an XP O/S what was it on the old machine?I am using Pinnacle Studio v9 with the Movie Box USB interface. I am connecting via the USB port. However, there are options on my video card for S-Vid as well as on the Movie Box UNIT. SOrry, didnt scroll down far enough to see your reply!

Anywho, it's always been on XP. There wastn any special software that came with the unit. Just the Pinnacle software, and it worked before. And, when I plug it in, Windows doesnt OPEN the "New Hardware Found" window to install any drivers, if that were the case.

Greetings to all. I need something simple. Being crippled with MS, I need to bring that USB "port" at the back of my PC tower around to the front of the tower. My PC tower is inside my PC workdesk. So the USB ports of course are on the back of the tower (I think it's plug "A" where you would plug in any device like a Kindle or a digital camera, anything). So would that be CALLED something like a USB port extension cable, A-male-to-A-female or something? HEEEEEEEEEELP!!!USB extension cable. Google it.

I would recommend a powered usb hub vs a USB extender. Reason being that if you get a powered USB hub that is not powered off of your computer you will likely have less troubles. I have seen troubles with USB extenders because the wires inside the cables are too weak (too light of wire gage ) to power a EXTERNAL hard drive off of and function etc, also instead of having just 1 port per cable you can turn a single USB port from the rear of your computer to 5 that are accessible at the hub.

Here is one that I have. This allows for devices to charge also when the computer is off.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=17-803-033&ParentOnly=1&IsVirtualParent=1DaveLembke is RIGHT. The cables have to be the best.Quote from: DaveLembke on May 24, 2013, 06:04:26 PM

I have seen troubles with USB extenders because the wires inside the cables are too weak (too light of wire gage ) to power a external hard drive off of and function etc

External Hard drives and enclosures all use external power supplies.

According to benchmarks, the Phenom is slightly better than the APU. I emphasize only SLIGHTLY.

Source: http://www.cpubenchmark.net/high_end_cpus.html

AMD Phenom II X4 965 - 4306
AMD A8-5500 APU - 4141

What will really matter with gaming is the graphics card.

Hi GUYS,
I own an Acer Aspire One D257 notebook.
I accidentally "BROKE" Wondows on it the other day, where it died in the middle of an update.
Luckily, I booted it to ANDROID. Now my power button doesn't work, and when I plug it in, no light to indicate that it was charging came on. I've tried taking out the BATTERY and the usual, nothing!

Please HELP,
Spollen27

I been trying to unsolder a blown capacitor off the motherboard and it will not melt the solder at all, i try different solder iron and tips and none seem to melt the solder i even add solder on the one im trying to melt for a better contact but still nothen. So if any one can help with problem thanks.Lead free solder has melting point from 5 to 20 deg C higher than lead/tin so maybe your soldering irons are not hot enough. Also, is your tip clean, and well coated with clean solder? Have you been taught how to USE a soldering iron?

Some tips here...

http://www.thecapking.com/howto.htmlbuy a new board, its tring to tell you something there is a good reason why it had failed. Its rather hard to replace this stuff unless your real sure what to do.The secret is to use a clean, hot, tinned, temperature controlled iron with the right kind of tip and to be very quick. Poking about with a soldering iron when you are unskilled and/or don't know what you are doing is a good way to kill a motherboard. The conducted heat can damage components and cause the multiple layers to become delaminatedQuote from: IcyBurn on July 21, 2009, 11:47:46 AM

I been trying to unsolder a blown capacitor off the motherboard and it will not melt the solder at all,

its a good tip dont mean it will work.

I installed LINUX to my computer and LATER switched to XP. i had some DATA stored on an external drive and now cannot access the information on that drive. The computer DOES recognize the drive, but it is noted as "UNALLOCATED." I also cannot access the files when I use a Linux operating system. Can anyone help?How old a drive was it and how hard a life did it have?

Was this external drive formatted as NTFS?

I am assuming nothing else is available on that drive. When you right click on the drive and choose Properties, dows it show up as "RAW"?does it work with any other computer? Would another computer be able to read the external drive so you can retrieve the stuff out of it? Maybe a long shot but worth a try anyway.

Have fun with your new computer! But really, there was 200CDN of taxes?

Main purpose would be various desktop applications as well as likely virtual Machines (thus the quad core).

Can anyone recommend a specific inkjet printer that has separate color ink cartridges that are not outrageously priced, and having above average print quality? Consumers REPORTS is a good place to start.
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/printers/buying-guide.htm
You should have no problem using HP printers with Linux.
And printers the EMULATE HP.I'm not sure of any good ones but I'd suggest you stay away from HP's touchscreen "smart" printers. I got ONE to allow printing from an iPad (Photosmart Premium C310) and is the worst printer I have ever used; slow, unreliable, eats ink and the INTERFACE is frustrating to use. Got so frustrating I now use my 13 year old B/W laser for most stuff!

Hello,

First off, thanks for taking the time to help me with my PROBLEM. I have an HP AMD Quad-Core A10-5700 desktop with a dedicated AMD Radeon HD 7660D graphics card. Would it be possible for me to add a standalone graphics card to my computer, or am I stuck with what I have? Thank you for your help. Welcome to the forums

Do you have the exact model of your PC? For example, HP Pavilion dv6z-7000. This will let us know whether you have the slot for a standalone card, whether it will fit in the case, and whether your power supply will handle it.Check your documentation. Or, just go to the HP site and look for a Graphics card that works with your model.
Or use this link.
http://www.shopping.hp.com/webapp/shopping/store_access.do?template_type=cto_config&config_id=1817240&aoid=44661&003=6663635&010=C9D15AV#ABA_1817240&ci_sku=C9D15AV#ABA_1817240&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw=

Is this one of the cards they say works with your box?
1GB Nvidia GeForce GT620 [DVI, HDMI, VGA via Adapter]Thank you for the replies. My model is p7-1451, and yes, it does give me the option to add the 1GB Nvidia GeForce GT620 [DVI, HDMI, VGA via Adapter]. The thing is I have never opened my case, so I am assuming their is a PCI Express slot for that card and if I purchased it then I should just be able to put it in and my computer will pick up on it and go from there? And it looks like I could buy it here: http://www.amazon.com/PNY-NVIDIA-GeForce-PCI-Express-VCGGT620XPB/dp/B00847LDTI

If this is the same card and you think it would work on my pc, plus give me better performance when playing games, then I will buy it.Well, you have the right slot for it, but you only have a 300W power supply, so you'll be somewhat LIMITED in what you can upgrade to. I'm struggling to find a LOW powered card that is actually better than a 7660D ONBOARD - the GT 620 is significantly weaker.

Edit: also, you are correct, you would only need to insert the new card and start the PC, then install the appropriate drivers. No other configuration should be necessary.Hey guys, thank you for the help. I think I will take it to a guy down town that can prevent me from either A: wasting money, or B: destroying my system. I can actually run quite a few games pretty well. The first time I really experienced any lag was with BioShock Infinite.

I have an HP Pavilion dv8000 running XP with I believe SP3 and major updates until end of last year!

I started to see PROBS happening then, as soon as fan started to whirl up really fast, the laptop just shut off, at times it just shuts off itself as soon as it was powered on... I have to put it to use again like "today"... so powered it on yesterday, everything went well, updated Zone Alarm, Acrobat and it may have updated some XP files, but don't know which... after having to restart it... it picked up the same prob as before, it shuts off when the fan whirls up... and haven't been able to bring it back to life since yesterday... read that in some CASES I would need to reset the CMOS, for which I followed instructions to remove the battery for ten minutes or so, reinserted and restart it... after that it just won't go beyond the "loading personal settings" window and it either stays there forever, or it shuts off a real long while after once the fan revs up!... have tried in Safe Mode with no results... there's only one user with admin privileges and the guest account... neither opens in regular mode... and in safe mode appears the user and the administrator, but when logging in trying to use the admin user, it says the password is wrong... won't have at hand a Windows CD until Tuesday, but really need to try any other fix ASAP... I'm pretty fam with computers, but this is bugging the heck outta me!... PLEASE HELP since I need to return the laptop I'm now writing with ASAP too!By returning it do you mean to the Client you're fixing it for ? ?
As it would obviously be out of Warranty...
Who gave you the password ? ?...Password's are case-sensitive so try a few different combos.
Your capslock key was on when you posted the Topic...perhaps that's the issue...No, my personal computer is the one acting up; the one I'm writing on is one I borrowed while trying to solve the issue with my own, but I should return this one soon. Whatever I'm writing here, is being written on a working computer. As per the password, the admin user comes up only in safe mode, and ASKS for a password which I don't recall setting up, on normal mode it shows two users, the one I created when the laptop was setup, and for which the password I know coz I created it, he other user is the 'guest', which by the way does not let me access. Hope this helps to clarify things.If you never setup an Admin password on that PC then when PROMPTED for 1 SIMPLY hit Enter and it should continue......logged in as admin in safe mode but laptop stalls forever at "applying personal settings" ... if logging in by regular user in safe or regular mode, it stalls at "loading personal settings"...

My budget is $1500

• Windows® 7 Home PREMIUM, 64bit, English
• Up to 2nd Gen Intel® Core™ i7 process
• Liquid cooling unit & optional ALX chassis with active venting
• Up to 4GB GDDR5 NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 690

Personally, I would ditch the SSD and use that money for better CPU/GFX.

I never found the speed of an SSD to be worth the price.

According to benchmarks,

The 670 outperforms the 690
http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/high_end_gpus.html

The CPU on the Alienware, however, is slightly better. (3570k vs 3820)
http://www.cpubenchmark.net/high_end_cpus.html

Unless you're doing a lot of rendering that requires raw CPU power, the i5 should be fine.

Personally

After THINKING this over and musing about the negative REPORTS I found, trying to program the chip yourself with an external programmer is not a good idea. The motherboard makers recommend you use software only, not hardware, to program motherboard chips outside of the factory. In the factory they have their own designs and methods for programming the BIOS during production.

I did find one site where somebody it, but is was very specific to just none motherboard. There may not be a generic external hardware tool that can program any motherboard.

As a comparison, it is easier to find a replacement remote control for your old Emerson TV set.

I once built a real simple FDD controller that required the IC to be programed with complements instead of straight byte code. I did not document it, there was no reason to ever change the code. But it made some of my co-workers very annoyed. So I could imagine the motherboard maker might have done something very odd with a custom hardware programmer that was not obvious to everybody.

Example: The chip may not work unless it is first programmed the first time by out of board hardware. After that it can be programmed by software while in the motherboard.
Quote

Example: The chip may not work unless it is first programmed the first time by out of board hardware. After that it can be programmed by software while in the motherboard.

Quote from: MadelineB on May 26, 2013, 11:57:29 AM

... I bought an HP ProBook 4540s. I'm very happy with it. I no longer eat or DRINK near the computer. I'm also purchasing new accidental damage protection for the computer...

The computer originally cost me $587. Micro Center GAVE me a repair estimate of $863. They said that the FOLLOWING items needed to be replaced: bottom cover, keyboard, motherboard, and daughterboard.

Intermittent problem: hit the power button, sometimes computer gets stuck at blank black screen at bootup, not even getting to the red compaq logo. Fan is loud if this happens.

However, sometimes computer loads normally and boots to windows perfectly fine. When reverted to USING integrated VGA card on motherboard, computer seems fine. But when using stand alone (AGP) graphics card, computer has intermittent problem. Have TRIED with older graphics card too.

Sounds like connection issues with AGP slot? When successfully booted to windows, computer runs fine.

Still using old computer, with specs below my username to the left / in profile.

any IDEAS / solutions? Would like to use the AGP graphics card, but at WORST, I can revert back to the old VGA connection when I find my old VGA cable somewhere.

Thanks!Whens the last time you opened the case and did some housekeeping in there ? ?
Don't use a vacuum...canned air is best.
If you can determine which fan is noisy most likely it can be replaced...even if it's the vid card.hi Patio,

sorry for delay to reply.

Got myself a VGA cable, computer sometime still has same boot problem although not as frequently as before.

Have took a clean of computer shortly before posting original message.

Other ideas?


Thank you

I'm looking for a MOUSE that I can assign show the desktop(minimize all windows) to a button. I just bought the Mionix Naos 3200 Black 7 Buttons USB Wired LED-optical 3200 dpi Mouse. It doesn't have this option and the macro section of the software doesn't seem to work right so I can't make a marco to assign to a button.

I've search for mice that has this option, but nothing in the info I find says if this is a option.

I'm not a gamer so this one option is all I care about. Does anyone know of a mouse that is still available to buy that has this option?

Thanks!

MichaelI'm sorry, I didn't mention I run Windows 7 with the latest updates.I don't think there's a mouse out there with that as a physical button, you would be BEST USING a macro for this. If the software supplied with the mouse isn't working right, have you tried reinstalling it? If you can't get it to work, there are other programs that can do this for you, but having never used one I couldn't recommend a specific piece of software.Thank you for the reply Calum.

I use to have a logic tech trackball mouse that had this option for a button so I do know they use to have them, but I don't know if they still do.

I did try uninstalling/reinstalling with the same results.

If someone can direct me to software with this option that'll work with this mouse I would appreciate it.

Thanks again!

MichaelWOOHOO!!! I found the software to do this and it's completely free! I was able to do it with X-Mouse Button Control. It even had a option to show/hide desktop so I didn't even have to make a macro.

Thanks again Calum for your advice. You have no idea how happy this has made me!

MichaelNo problem, glad to HEAR I managed to at least point you in the right direction

Hello everyone. I have a problem with my PC where sometimes it powers on but does not BOOT and nothing shows up on the screen. It's a ASUS P8Z77-V LX Motheroard with AMI 2.10 bios. It's a random error and I will list everything I did so far further below. What I want to know mostly is what my error code means. I installed a speaker to the motherboard and I am getting

8 beeps, then 1 short

I can't find any info about this particular error code. I find 8 beeps but not 8-1 like I have.

Full specs:
Intel i5-2500k
Asus P8Z77-V LX Mainboard
8 GB DDR3 Corsair Vengeance (it's in the list of qualified RAM list)
Asus Radeon HD 7880 v2 GPU
550W Corsair Power Supply

Things I did to try to fix this so far:
- Updated BIOS to the latest (1801) without problems
- Bought a new GPU. No difference. Though I'm happy with the new GPU
- Tried running with just 1 of each RAM stick, no difference
- Replaced HDD because sometimes when this error occured changing the SATA port order would fix it and make the PC boot again. But it still happens sometimes.
- Tug / push the components. I've made sure they are PROPERLY inserted. I reinserted, too. I believe they are seated well, though sometimes it suddenly boots again after I do the pushing ever so mildly. It might intersect with what I wrote about the SATA port order change, since that involves some pushing too.

PC runs stable once its up, it just has sometimes this issue when it was off for a while like after a night until I do the SATA change or tugging.

I am completely puzzled. I was hoping the error codes will tell me once and for all what the issue is but like I said I cannot find the meaning of "8-1". I only find "8" but not the short extra beep.

I hope someone can help me. Thank you very much in advance!Even though Corsair makes good parts, have you swapped out the PSU with another known good PSU?

Reason why i ask is because I had a similar issue about a year ago with my one computer and it was because of the PSU was weak on boot. The weakness was less than 3 seconds, but during boot when the system needs volts backed by amps a lot is happening during that 3 second window. Swaping out the PSU fixed my issue.

What threw me off was looking at my voltages when the system had been on for more than 3 seconds everything read correct. So it was able to carry the load once it got past this 3 second or so period where it was weak to supply the immediate load. *My PSU was not a Corsair though, it was a cheap PSU that came with a low cost case. BUT if it happened to this PSU, it could HAPPEN to any brand I suppose.No I haven't, but I see where you are coming from with that idea. A friend suggested it might be the powerline in the HOUSE because I have a second, older, computer that eventually developed similar symptoms. But wouldn't I have system instabilities then, especially while gaming the latest game releases or doing work (using a lot of power)? It was because of these issues that I assembled the PC listed in the first POST. That older PC is different and uses a different CPU (first generation Core2Duo), a 420w Seasonic PSU and a cheap AMD GPU but it also a ASUS Board (P5W DH Deluxe) and until yesterday the same Western Digital HDD brand (I replaced it in this newer PC yesterday). Anyway that system has sometimes the same issue except on it I can get a picture when hooked to a CRT (stuck on the screen that tells you you can press Del to go to bios, but does not react) and no picture on TFT and unlike my newer PC it does not go beep-crazy either, just the regular 1 beep that says everything is fine. The GPU in that one was replaced last month too, to no avail.

I did not want to add confusion but since you brought up power I thought I should mention it. It confuses even myself...

My wallet is a still a little angry with me for the purchases I made, so before I go out and get a different PSU (the one in the old PC is not suitable) I would like to hear more opinions, especially in regards to the Beep code (8-1) Quote from: Genjin88 on May 18, 2013, 09:42:56 AM

...PC runs stable once its up, it just has sometimes this issue when it was off for a while like after a night until I do the SATA change or tugging...

I am a masters student working on my dissertation and I had a major computer issue this morning. I have a DELL Vostro 410 that after a power outage won't turn on or do anything. I really need advice on what steps to take. and an outside repair man is not an option due to an extremely limited budget. I have taken it apart, reset the power supply and it still does nothing. I took off the main power connected from power supply to motherboard, then connected a jumper from pin 15 to 16, then plugged in. The power supply powered up, as well as the hard drive. i then tested the voltages of the other pins and all seems operational. Is there someone able to help? I'd borrow a known good power supply from a friend and see if the system behaves? Power supplies can be bad and still appear to run, they are just not able to run the computer.kcbennet89

Did this get solved for you in the chat room? Don't remember if it was the power switch or not. Anyway, if it didn't get solved, I'd go with what Dave recommended. I've had plenty of PSUs that have seemed totally workable and still not gotten the PC on for whatever reason.

Also consider that all of the power for the PC comes from the PSU, so it's going to get the most stress and is exposed to the greatest RISK electrically speaking. I'd say about 70+% of the time I've had odd issues like that the PSU has been the culprit. 20% of the time it's been problems with the graphics card, so you could also try removing the GPU and booting up without it to see if that does anything. The rest of the time it's been damage to multiple components, and there wasn't a single piece that could be blamed.Quote

20% of the time it's been problems with the graphics card, so you could also try removing the GPU and booting up without it to see if that does anything.

i have a desktop Windows XP using Roadrunner cable w/ WIFI. I have my own router so i don't use the cable company's router (thus saving money). Just got a 2nt desktop Windows XP. Is there a way to mimic this 2nd desktop as a laptop? would an antenna help do that? bottom line here is that our cable company charges too much as it is. i'd rather spend money on a McGuyver solution rather than letting the cable company have it.Why can't you connect it to the router as-is?BC_Programmer beat me to the same question I had.

BTW: You can make Windows think its a Laptop in power MANAGEMENT however it makes no sense to do so for what you want to achieve.I have absolutely no idea what you want to achieve here...
Are they charging you by weight ? ?Quote from: BC_Programmer on May 29, 2013, 06:56:57 PM

Why can't you connect it to the router as-is?

Please look at this photo. I have two PCI graphics cat cards is the other?. One I know is a DVI output. But whaat is the other? Can I use it? My monitor s are standard VGA. Is there an adapter for it?
http://geek9pm.com/CH/video-out.jpg


Thank you.Link times out.In hate it when that happens.
Other link:
http://geek9pm.us/video-out.jpg

Dual-Link DVI, here's an article on it:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DMS-59Quote from: BC_Programmer on May 30, 2013, 11:40:52 PM

Dual-Link DVI, here's an article on it:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DMS-59

Hmm, I see. How odd that it's listed that way. Dual link DVI is not a separate connector, it's a DVI standard that can use multiple connectors, such as DVI-I, DVI-D, DVI-A, depending on the card and cable. No idea why Wikipedia refers to DMS-59 as a dual link DVI, that's just confusing. Perhaps "Dual DVI" would be a better way of phrasing it.

Wasn't just being pedantic for the sake of it, it was just for future reference DMS-59 is not a very common connector anyway.

HI all!! I need help wizards!


I built this computer about 2 years ago.

i5-2500K Intel quad core 3.3
XFX Radeon HD 6870
8gb of Gskill ram
Antec 750 w power supply
60gb SSD
1TB HDD
Cooler Master aftermarket cooler
Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD4-B3
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit

Recently I've been having very odd problems. The computer will be working fine then it freezes up and restarts or blue screens.

If it restarts it won't boot back up and repeatedly tries to boot from CD/DVD drive.

If I manually shut it down, it will boot just fine.

The event view reads: Event ID 41 "Kernel-Power"

I've ran a memtest on the ram and it was fine.
The temperatures are fine as well.

There have been some power outages in my area recently... Do yall think something is fried? Power supply?

Ohhh, also... took out my HDD and reformatted my computer on the SDD. So it's on a fresh install now and still having the same problems.

It should also be noted that I haven't added anything new to this system that would draw power.

And I've CHECKED the PSU's fan to see if it's still running.

Thanks,
JKI'd power it through a UPS ( Battery Backup ) if you dont already have it powered through one. I'd also swap the PSU out and see if that corrects this issue or not. When they die they act just like this.What SSD do you have? It sounds to me like when the PC reboots, it's not finding the SSD afterwards, and hence is trying to boot from the DVD drive.
Have you made sure you're on the latest firmware for the SSD, and the latest BIOS for the motherboard?
Is the machine overclocked at all? If so, reset it to standard speed and see if the issue persists.I have a 64gb Crucial SSD. The machine is not overclocked.

I just bought and installed a Corsair GS800 PSU. I was going to order one from new egg, but got inpatient so I went to see what best buy had in stock. I've got it installed now. So far everything seems to be working well. I'll update soon if the problem has been solved.

Thanks,
JKIf that's the Crucial M4 SSD, there was a firmware update released to RESOLVE an issue CAUSED when the drive passes 5000 or so power-on hours. Check your SSD's firmware and see if there's an update available, the latest is 070H. If your firmware is pre-0309, then you'll also see a hefty speed boost from upgrading.Quote from: Calum on May 30, 2013, 01:19:54 AM

If that's the Crucial M4 SSD, there was a firmware update released to resolve an issue caused when the drive passes 5000 or so power-on hours. Check your SSD's firmware and see if there's an update available, the latest is 070H. If your firmware is pre-0309, then you'll also see a hefty speed boost from upgrading.

It's worth updating the SSD's firmware anyway even if you weren't having problems, as the newer versions have fixed other problems and, as I said, 0309 has a significant speed boost too. Make sure to read through the instructions before updating it, though, and my advice would be to use the bootable ISO image rather than the Windows based method - no point taking unnecessary risks with your data.

See how it goes after the firmware update, I wouldn't completely rule out the PSU but it sounds very like the old firmware problem to me.

Cool, glad the update went OK. Out of curiosity, do you know what version you were on before the update?
Fingers crossed the issue is now resolved for you.

Microphone not working for some reason when connected to my sound card, wondering what I can do to TROUBLE shoot it
It's a new(er) headset had it for about a month and it's working great, I know the mic works it's just not picking up any sound so there is SOMETHING WRONG setup wise / drivers etc

check list of what I have done so far:
- Upgraded Audio drivers
- Connected the microphone jack to the front panel (not connected to the soundcard) and there was a little more response, (the bars in recording devices beside frontmic light up, assume i need to restart etc for it to actually work through front panel) but I want it to work USING my sound card


setup:
win7 H premium sp1
ASUS XONAR DGX sound card
Steelseries Siberia V2 Analog headset (built in mic)
UPDATE:
mic is recoding audio playback from videos etc but no voice, I figure it's a really simple solllution but i just can't find it :/anyone? It's a really simple issue from what I undestand I just can't get it going

Microphone records audio playback from the PC, not audio bleeding etc just fully records sound from headphones instead of the actual mic itself

need to find out today really bad

Hello.....
I have a problem in my pc....while I am working on it my monitor turn off automatically and my c.p.u on but even Num lock BUTTON in keyboard is also not working....then i have to RESTART my pc by pressing restart button.....It HAPPENING SINCE from 35 days, I am facing trouble with this problem.... and i noticed that my Intel bga chip is over heating....
So please tell me what is the problem and what i have to do!
in advance Thanks....

[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]How did you notice that it was overheating ? ?
What are you using to monitor your temps ? ?
DLoad and run SpeedFan...post temps both at idle and under load...
Also post the complete PC specs.

Sounds like after spending all that cabbage it may in fact be the vid card itself afterall...
But let's see what happens after the clean install and the new RAM.I don't have my new RAM YET, but I did a diagnostic test. Everything passed EXCEPT the DST short test. It returned the error code 2000-0146 DST Log contains previous errors. Is this a concern, since everything works with the exception of video FREEZES in full screen mode?Which diagnostic test ? ?The one that opens when you push F12 at bootup. I ran all the tests.The RAM update to 4GB (3.25GB recognized) did not fix the video freezes. And every time I reboot I get the same message, that my computer has recovered from a serious error, that turns out to be that the video card is not working properly...suggesting to update the driver (I wish it were that easy). I tried watching some video on the Nat Geo web site (since that one freezes almost every time) in safe mode (not FUN--no audio), and it did not freeze. I do not recall ever freezing in safe mode.If it freezes in safemode it's most certainly a HARDWARE issue...as was suggested awhile back.
Replace the card.

I've had this strange problem that seems to have gotten worse over the last MONTH or so. The short version is that every time I tried to watch a movie or video or even do some editing, my computer would stop running after a varied amount of time, and go into STANDBY mode.

When it first started happening, it was just while watching movies on Netflix. I thought it was an issue with Silverlight, so I uninstalled Silverlight. Problem kept occurring.

Then it started happening on YouTube if I was watching something longer than 10 minutes or so. I would pause the video every few minutes, and that seemed to help for a while. But that didn't last too long, and now I can only watch something for maybe a few minutes at most.

Now I can't even edit using Adobe Premiere, because scrolling through video clips will cause the computer to go into standby mode.

When it first started happening, an audio loop would occur and wouldn't stop until I did a hard restart. Now, the audio will actually continue normally, until I do the hard restart.

I have McAfee Total Protection and it doesn't see anything wrong.
I ran Malwarebytes and it removed a few threats, but the problem continued.
I ran a computer cleaner, and the problem continued.
I run the computer in Safemode and the speakers are disabled, my second monitor is disabled, but I can watch media and edit without a problem.

I have a Dell computer that is maybe 4 years old tops, and I just replaced the hard drive a year ago. Running Windows 7, and I have dual monitors. I don't know any other specs off the TOP of my head.


[I'm not sure if this is a hardware problem, or a driver problem, so I'm posting in both places. I hope that's ok.]I've had this strange problem that seems to have gotten worse over the last month or so. The short version is that every time I tried to watch a movie or video or even do some editing, my computer would stop running after a varied amount of time, and go into standby mode.

When it first started happening, it was just while watching movies on Netflix. I thought it was an issue with Silverlight, so I uninstalled Silverlight. Problem kept occurring.

Then it started happening on YouTube if I was watching something longer than 10 minutes or so. I would pause the video every few minutes, and that seemed to help for a while. But that didn't last too long, and now I can only watch something for maybe a few minutes at most.

Now I can't even edit using Adobe Premiere, because scrolling through video clips will cause the computer to go into standby mode.

When it first started happening, an audio loop would occur and wouldn't stop until I did a hard restart. Now, the audio will actually continue normally, until I do the hard restart.

I have McAfee Total Protection and it doesn't see anything wrong.
I ran Malwarebytes and it removed a few threats, but the problem continued.
I ran a computer cleaner, and the problem continued.
I run the computer in Safemode and the speakers are disabled, my second monitor is disabled, but I can watch media and edit without a problem.

I have a Dell computer that is maybe 4 years old tops, and I just replaced the hard drive a year ago. Running Windows 7, and I have dual monitors. I don't know any other specs off the top of my head.


[I'm not sure if this is a hardware problem, or a driver problem, so I'm posting in both places. I hope that's ok.]
No need to double post.
Is this Windows 7 64 bit?
You should not lose sound in safe mode. It may be an attack on your drivers.
Do you have another PC that can be used to download and make a rescue CD?
You may want o consider this a virus attack. The fact that your AV did not catch it is not conclusive.
Before you do anything, wait for instructions from somebody better qualified than myself. HOPEFULLY you already have a data backup plan in place.
Welcome to the forums!

When you say your computer goes into standby mode, does the PC keep running, as in the fans continue turning, but the monitor just goes into standby? If so, it sounds like a graphics related problem, probably a driver issue but potentially hardware related. Basically, if it runs in safe mode fine then the problem is only occurring when the graphics drivers are loaded.
My advice would be to uninstall your graphics drivers completely, then reinstall the latest version - but to tell you exactly how to do so, we'll need the rest of your specifications.
Speccy is a great tool to get your system specifications easily, if you could run that and post the results that would be a great help and we can then advise you further.

Also, losing sound in safe mode is entirely normal as the Windows audio service is disabled in safe mode. I don't see anything here to indicate this is a malware issue, I've dealt with this issue literally hundreds of times and it's more than likely to be driver related with a small possibility of a hardware fault.We will need to see the Specs on the PC...
P.S. What are you monitoring your Temps with ?Yeah, the fans keep going but the monitors just shut down and nothing works to bring it back from sleep mode. I have a bunch of my install CDs but I'm not sure which one to use to reinstall my drivers. Will doing a reinstall wipe everything out, like when I replaced my harddrive? I'm backing everything up just in case.

I ran Speccy and here's what it said:

Operating System
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit SP1
CPU
Intel Core i7 860 @ 2.80GHz51 °C
Lynnfield 45nm Technology
RAM
6.00GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 664MHz (9-9-9-24)
Motherboard
Dell Inc. 0T568R (CPU 1)22 °C
Graphics
DELL ST2210 ([emailprotected])
1024MB GeForce GT 220 (nVidia)
Hard Drives
932GB Seagate ST31000524AS (SATA)33 °C
Optical Drives
HL-DT-ST DVD+-RW GH50N
Audio
High Definition Audio DeviceBacking up everything is a good idea regardless. Your graphics card is an Nvidia - click here to download the driver package, and save it - don't run it yet. Go to Computer, Uninstall or change a program, then remove anything that says Nvidia by it, and reboot the PC. Now open the driver package you downloaded, select Custom install rather than Express or default, and check the box that says clean install. Let the drivers finish installing, then reboot the PC again.
This performs a clean install of the Nvidia drivers, and may well help. It will not affect anything stored on the hard drive such as programs or documents, you won't lose anything.i uninstalled the drivers and did the clean install as recommended. i thought evertything was working again, but now there's a new problem.

I still can't watch media, and instead of my computer going into standby mode, it just RESTARTS completely. i tried going back into safe mode, but it freezes strying to load a driver called something like CLASSPNP.SYS

Then when I do a hard shut down, it runs system recovery and restarts normally. it's been doing this on a loop for the last hour or so

I coudn't even type this reply on the compurter, I'm on my phone

Help?? Operating System
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit SP1
CPU
Intel Core i7 860 @ 2.80GHz 51 °C
Lynnfield 45nm Technology
RAM
6.00GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 664MHz (9-9-9-24)
Motherboard
Dell Inc. 0T568R (CPU 1) 22 °C
Graphics
DELL ST2210 ([emailprotected])
1024MB GeForce GT 220 (nVidia)
Hard Drives
932GB Seagate ST31000524AS (SATA) 33 °C
Optical Drives
HL-DT-ST DVD+-RW GH50N
Audio
High Definition Audio Device
After following Calum's suggestion to uninstall/reinstal my graphics drivers, this started happening:


"i uninstalled the drivers and did the clean install as recommended. i thought evertything was working again, but now there's a new problem.

I still can't watch media, and instead of my computer going into standby mode, it just restarts completely. i tried going back into safe mode, but it freezes strying to load a driver called something like CLASSPNP.SYS

Then when I do a hard shut down, it runs system recovery and restarts normally. it's been doing this on a loop for the last hour or so

I coudn't even type this reply on the compurter, I'm on my phone

Help?? "So you can boot into Windows, after doing a system recovery, but then the system reboots when watching media after that?
Insert your Windows 7 disk, go to start - type cmd - right click on cmd.exe and click run as administrator. Type "sfc /scannow" without quotes, and let it run through. Restart afterwards and see if this helps.
If not, you may be at the point where you need to consider a repair install, or reinstall of Windows. I suspect system file corruption, possibly caused by a bad driver/driver failure which may in turn be the fault of a graphics card on its way out.
I've linked to an excellent guide on performing a repair install, this will not lose your data or programs.You had two threads on the same topic and all that does is cause confusion and duplication of efforts. I've merged them into one thread.I tried to run the sf scan and my computer restarted after a few minutes. Now it keeps restarting/freezing repeatedly and I can't do anything. I can't get to my desktop to run the repair or anything

Am I completely SOL?If you have already managed to back up your files, boot from the Windows 7 CD and do a clean install. If not, boot from it and do an install but don't format the disk or remove any partitions. Your old Windows installation will be kept in a folder called windows.old - all your user files will be in here, so you won't lose your documents, music etc.

hi,

i need help locating the bios chip on asus n90s
if someone could help me out and tell me where the bios chip is located would solve my problem
i have flashed a wrong image onthe bios now im trying to replace with a new one.
here are the motherboard pictures and hopefully you can see something that could be the bios chip

link motherboard pictures
http://postimg.org/gallery/481p9eba/1571e4c1/
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Asus-N90S-Intel-Laptop-Motherboard-60-NXYMB1000-A01-Tested-/271113913463?pt=Motherboards&hash=item3f1fa60477#ht_647wt_1170

This chip in attached pic looks like it could be a flash chip for the BIOS, but no info online to confirm without reading that chips part number. If you can read the alpha-numeric numbers off of this square ship circled in red and google it, it will tell you what type of chip it is. Its located near the cmos battery which is a good placement for this to be the flash chip, but I'd double check before attempting to remove. Some manufacturers hid the battery and bios flash chips around the RAM slots. From this ebay pic of the motherboard I am unable to see what is under that black plastic that APPEARS to be in a RAM slot AREA, and that BIOS chip may be under it. They are generally square flash chips with pins on all 4 sides in all I have seen. Newer flash chips can also have square chip with all solder contacts not exposed but underside surface mount contacts and you would need proper surface mount IC removal TOOLS to remove without damaging the motherboard!

But also given the chips location it could also be part of the charging/monitoring circuit due to the filtration I see between this chip and cmos battery and the connector to the right of it with the contact blades for the laptop battery.

[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]hi
thanks for your fast reply
i have looked at the chip and searched the name and numbers couldnt find anything that is a flash or bios chip
the name was
MAXIM
170DE
TJ005 or it could be T3005

i also removed the black tape that was under the memmory slots noting of any kind of chip was there.

any other placed i could look that might be a bios chip.Don't let me spoil your fun.
But.... recently there was a post on the forum SIMILAR to yours. At the end, it seems that replacing the BIOS chip is not a viable option.

Some INDIVIDUALS have done it, but it is much more difficult that it would seem. You should contact the maker of the computer or the motherboard and find out what they would charge to do the job for you.
Please respond. Many here would like to know if there is a practical way to replace the BIOS chip.We talked about this on the chat for at least 2 hours, you made a mistake switching
people were telling you to buy a new motherboardNow days BIOS chips are never put in sockets anymore. They are soldered onto the board because there is no reason to replace them. The makers of the boards warn everybody about the hazards of doing a flash of the BIOS chip.
The right program from the maker of the motherboard will do the job right.Anything else is much too great a risk.

Removing the ICs from a motherboard requires a solder station that costs more than the mortarboard. Hard-Core hobbyists will try it because it is a challenge.
Look at this:
http://www.bios-mods.com/forum/Thread-Bios-Chip-Removal-Guide

I'm having much frustration with my Epson CX3700 and this horrible error message... "Page not printed or Multi-Page error" - this occurs when using Publisher and printing only one page documents!

I have ensured only one page is there to print, and even if I select - print only page 1, or print only current page, I still receive this error message! Then that annoying little red light on the CX3700 starts to blink blink blink and to get another page out of it I must SHUT it down, wait, turn it on, and wait, and print ONE page again!!!! aarrghhhhh....

Has anyone encountered this? I am guessing there is a setting somewhere I can change to end this pain but despite my searching and TESTING (and KILLING trees in the meantime) I cannot stop it doing this.

One page documents in other programs print fine, as do multi-page documents.

I would really really appreciate any feedback on this one! Thanks...I have the EXACT same problem on my epson SX130. Anyone found a solution yet?