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If I have an AVI file on my computer, which I can watch on my computer using WMP, can I burn that onto a DVD, put that into my laptop, and watch it on the laptop?

Must it be converted to DVD in order for me to watch it on the laptop?

If I'm not being specific enough, let me know. Thanks.1) What are the specs for both PCs

2) What EXACTLY are you TRYING to do?

First off, thanks for replying.

I have several large (439 MB each) movie clips on my computer. I will be going away for a few days, and I would like to watch these on my laptop. However, my laptop does not have enough space to hold all of these on its hard drive. The format is AVI.

Both computers use Windows XP and have the latest version of WMP.

I would like to put these AVIs on a couple DVD-R discs. Is that possible? Is there a better method? My PC has a DVD-RW, and my laptop is DVD readable.Quote

[highlight]1) What are the specs for both PCs[/highlight]

2) What EXACTLY are you trying to do?

better to give us too much than too little.

Quote

better to give us too much than too little.

Squirrel, I am starting to like your style.

ok, i KEEP getting this mesage that my virtual memory is LOW and my computer cant shut down/restart proprly. When i go to shut down just shows my desktop with no icons. and for the virtual memory, i have 0.99 GBs of RAM and i tryed changing the File Paging size.
I also tryed scaning for viruses.

So how would i fix both of these problems First I suggest changing the virtual memory back to Windows controlled. Press control, alt, delete. What is your commit charge, at the bottem of the TASK manager? Try loading your computer in safe mode, and see if there is the same problem.Windows defaults are adequate for virtually all users and playing in this is not LIKELY to help you situation. Tell us about your hard drive and free space after you make these changes back and reboot.ok i FIXED the virtual memory problem
now i just need my computer to shutdown properly.It keeps freezing after all the icons on the desktop goes away.

Computer Info:
HDD:58.3 GBs Free, 71.8 GBs Total

Commit Charge:Total:485000
Limit:2499288
Peak:494788

Total RAM:0.99 GBs

I have been TRYING to FIND a good LG DVD Burner for a few days now, and i cant seem to understand what the difference is beetween the GSA-4167B, and it's series wich is featured on LG's site and the GSA-H10 series wich isnt featured on any of their sites.
They all have the same specs, and im told that the GSA-H20L is the successor for the GSA-4166B, wich means that maybe they ARE the same, but are different names for the same product, and once i got linked to the GSA-4166B when on a GSA-H10LB page..

LG is MAKING me crazy There all much or a muchness.

Doesn't help with the QUESTION but most is similar, The only difference I know between Dvd-rw's is some burn to dvd-r, some burn to dvd+r and then you get ones which do both.Quote

There all much or a muchness.

Doesn't help with the question but most is similar, The only difference I know between Dvd-rw's is some burn to dvd-r, some burn to dvd+r and then you get ones which do both.

Morning All

I wonder if anyone could help me here.. I have a friends laptop computer (xp) that he has ASKED me to look at for him. He let his friend fiddle about with it, supposedly tweaking settings etc.. Since his friend has touched it it makes a loud racing noise (not sure wether its coming from the HARDDRIVE or the fan) whenever anything is clicked on/ opened/ run... Before this it was really quiet. I was wondering could messing with the settings speed up or make louder the fan or hard drive? If so is there a way i can restore those settings back to before? I cannot do a system restore as there were none saved prior to his friend messing it up. Am i going down the wrong path thinking it could be settings? Could it be something totally different?

Any help would be very much appriciated.

Thanks,

Debby.Ask your friend exactly what it is he did. That will make it a lot easier to undo what he has done.Hi Neil,

Thankyou for the reply. I asked what he had done to it when he brought it over and he said his mate said he had done some 'xp tweaks'. When my friend asked him to 'un-tweak' it he said he didnt KNOW how to The idiot was drunk at the time too.


I have a feeling its the fan making the noise tho as it sounds like its coming from there. When the lappy starts up it makes a racing sound as tho' its speeding up, like a cdrom does.. gawd this is soo hard to describe!... then it slows down to normal again, then if i open a program/ webpage it speeds up again until the page is loaded/ program opened then slows again, and this continues whilst using the lappy, it drives ya mad tho, very annoying and loud.


Bet you WISH you hadnt answered me now eh?

Debby.I'm not Really sure what causing your Problem, but i know of an XP Tweak site, that has a whole bunch of Tweaks and and a Few files To undo the Tweaks as well, maybe if you apply one of the Default files it could help

it was Called , Black viper... and i just Went looking and it seems to have... Went Poof , maybe some one Archived his stuff

http://www.dead-eye.net/WinXP%20Services.htm

Dam this site is not the complete Deal, but it Tell's you what services you should turn on or offThanks so much for that, il let you know if it helped
Im afraid it didnt solve the problem Anyone think of something else i can try?Quote

I'm not Really sure what causing your Problem, but i know of an XP Tweak site, that has a whole bunch of Tweaks and and a Few files To undo the Tweaks as well, maybe if you apply one of the Default files it could help

it was Called , Black viper... and i just Went looking and it seems to have... Went Poof , maybe some one Archived his stuff

http://www.dead-eye.net/WinXP%20Services.htm

Dam this site is not the complete Deal, but it Tell's you what services you should turn on or off

Hey, folks.

I have a Linksys wireless router that's about two years old.

Lately, I find that my connection just, well, drops. Once or twice a day.

If I hover my cursor over the little wireless icon in the tray, it shows I'm still connected, and I still GET my four green bars, but if I try to ping the router - or anything else on the network - it times out.

If I unplug the router and plug it right back in, 99 percent of the time, all is well. (That is, without re-setting my DSL modem).

So my question is, is it just, for a lack of a better word, "worn out"? I have recently moved - could THAT be part of the problem? I would doubt that, as it's NEW wiring, and the only other things on the circuit are a laptop, the DSL modem, and the printer.

I guess the bottom line is, I'll buy a new router if I NEED to. Is there any reason to believe one way or another that will fix this problem?

Thanks,

If you know all the settings in the router setup try hitting the reset button & reconfigure it. Also might check the Linksys site for firmware updates and "known problems" with your particular model.

Personally, I'm partial to Netgear hardware. I've replaced many Linksys routers for various reasons and found that Netgear, again my own experience, seems to work very well.

The prices is competitive with other brands out there and you can always take it back if the above suggestion(s) work.

Alan <><
ale gave you very good suggestions...i would try them all.
As far as Lynksys routers they are pretty rugged and reliable as well.
What caught my eye is you stated you recently moved...so your local enviornment has now changed. Try relocating any electronic devices that are near your machine including but not limited to cordless phones STEREO equipment TV's etc. to different locations and see if this solves your dilemna.

patio. 8-)Yeah, I had checked the firmware and it hasn't been updated since like April 05.

Where I USED to live, I had the DSL modem, printer, and router all in one room, and the machines in another. Now they are all in the same room. No cordless phones on the floor. No teevee either.Quote

Yeah, I had checked the firmware and it hasn't been updated since like April 05.

Hello, and yes it is me. Who else did you think it was?

I'm trying to set up a wireless network using a Cisco Linksys Wireless-G Broadband Router (WRT54G).
That part works. the problem is that when I try to encrypt my network, I can't seem to fill out the key combination in Windows that I also filled out in the " WPA shared key" (WPA2 shared TKIP+AES) section of my router because it'll start complaining about it having to be either.. 40 or 104 bits if I recall correctly.

When I use WEP, I am able to fill out the key combination because it generates one for me. But I know WEP isn't secure.

The password I try to fill in was randomly GENERATED on https://www.grc.com/passwords.htm[/u] so it was 63 characters in length.

Does this even make any sense? I'm not sure if it does to me.I've found that when using Windoze for the wireless connection you have very little choice as to your protection...[highlight]it'll start complaining about it having to be either.. 40 or 104 bits if I recall correctly.[/highlight].

Either use WEP (which is better than no protection) or get a Linksys wireless card. Unless you live in an urban area where war-driving may be an issue, WEP will be fine.

Compatibility is the issue here. I try to use the same brand-name wireless card with the same-brand router. Although you can mix 'n MATCH I prefer to use the same brand as it is less of a hassle.

Alan <>< All my equipment is Linksys, but I have to use Windows to connect with my router, ofcourse. The connection is not a problem, the router is 2 floors below me and still sends a strong enough signal to contact with the Laptop + PCMCIA card here. It's just the bloody WPA shared phrase that doesn't make sense to me.

I'll take the time now to whup up a few screenshots to show the problem I am facing, I had to post a quick message to answer my P.M's (You need at least one message to answer PRIVATE Messages it seems) and I was on a tight schedule.

Is that truly you R. Vogel?Quote

Is that truly you R. Vogel?

Quote

Is that truly you R. Vogel?

How many more newbies do I need to bash to convince you!

Wait, I'll say something only us hardline CH'ers can know:

"The garden is in the bush.. WIndows ME.. Is.. .. Very.. Brave.. Dustbin litter.. Kids..."

I just built myself a new computer, and for the first DAY or so everything was fine, except for the fact that the processor was running at an extremely high temperature (65C idle 80-85C load).

I opened the case, after I found out that I put on too much thermal paste (Arctic Silver 5, that is).

After taking some off with a paper TOWEL, I put everything back together, and tried to turn the computer back on. It stayed on for about half a SECOND, then shut back off immediately-- no BIOS beeps or anything.

I tried everything I could, but it would not stop doing this. Currently, nothing is hooked up to the motherboard but the power supply and a fan to test if the motherboard is running at all. It is sitting on a cardboard box as well, free from any metal that may be shorting the system.


All of the components are brand new, bought from newegg, and all worked just fine prior to removing the thermal paste.


Could this be a problem with the power supply or motherboard itself? I was doubting the motherboard, because the fan I have attached to the power supply is not in contact with the motherboard at all, and that too SHUTS off immediately upon being powered on.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.Did you ground yourself prior to touching any of the internal components?

Might be that processor (rare) / motherboard (likely) / power supply (likely)/ RAM (ify) is defective Unfortunately, without a replacement it's hard to tell.

Do you have another power supply you can check with?

Did you make sure you plugged EVERYTHING in correctly?

[highlight]...power supply is not in contact with the motherboard at all, and that too shuts off immediately upon being powered on.[/highlight] Not a good indicator. At this point, not having the system to work with, and your symptoms, I'd lean toward the motherboard or power supply.

Alan <>< It might be the over HEATING problem, check if everything is connected ok.
P.S. instead of tesing the system on the table try putting it in the case and try that..
[highlight]P.P.S. What are you placing under the motherboard? If it is a antistatic bag it will short some of the components.[/highlight]Quote

After taking some off with a paper towel, I put everything back together, and tried to turn the computer back on. It stayed on for about half a second, then shut back off immediately-- no BIOS beeps or anything.

Is there a way that I can increase the QUALITY of reception for a WIRELESS internet connection that has a weak signal?
Please help,
BGIs it YOUR wireless internet connection? What other FACTORS are at work? How much distance is involved? Is it a b or g network?You can Install a Siganl Repeater it is a Hardware, here is more INFO: http://www.wi-fiplanet.com/tutorials/article.php/1571601

Beep Codes were mentioned in Reply #6 up there.

I wonder if he checked into that at all?hey gx1 i said in reply #9 taht its a constant beeping and it was the error thingy for the ram.....i wonder if u botherd to read that FIRST?
but thanks penguin for explaining ecc...and im still awaiting a reply from the sellertvarmy04 I think you need to review how you are writing these posts, I've just read through the thread and you appear quite aggressive and quite happy to point out a fault you think someone made although you got the motherboard number wrong and then you seem annoyed when someone points that out.

Its not the right attitude for somebody who wants help, People come on this board out of their own time to try and help people, They don't have to help at all but they try where they can.

When you put one RAM module in at a time, Did it boot up?

Its unlikely both don't work but it can happen.actually nah if u read my posts im the one getting ripped on lol...i mean i had a typo when i spelled the mobo wrong i didnt get aggravated i said i was sorry for misspelling lol but seems like EVERYONE else isnt reading my responses to there ideas...like about the beeping i said back on the first pag that its a constant beepbepbeepbeepbeep then like 3 diff ppl rite away say "check yur mobo's beep code's" lol trust me im tryin to get help...all i wanted to know is if the ram i bought if someone could just double check to make sure its the rite one for my mobo cuz from MY research its compatible...all i wanted was a 2nd 3rd maybe a 4th opinion to make sure that it was the rite one. and just like your question "when you put one ram module in at a time, did it boot?" well if u read some of my responses i say that i tried that already each one 1 at a time and none of them boot.But how hard is it to say "yes, I checked that but it didn't work".

Its a bit better than "well if u read some of my responses i say that i tried that already each one 1 at a time and none of them boot.",

Not everyone is going to remember every detail from the first page and things do get repeated sometimes.Motherboards will give a different type of beeping style depending on what exactly the problem is. Don't just assume it is the "ram alarm. duh" It could be something else the ram is preventing from working.OK i've LOOKED a bit and it appears that you mobo supports 4 GB max and the SUPPORTED RAM is DDR266/PC2100,PC2700,PC3200

So yes it should work.THANK YOU NITRO....lol took 3days or so for that response its all i was looking for so im guessing the ram is bad since none of it will boot with the cpu..which sucks cuz i just checked the RETURN policy and i gotta pay the *censored* shipping to have it exchanged lol (go figure )There is a big difference between "it should work" and it "doesn't work".

I feel we bent over backward to help you with this but you were defensive and rude. I think Nitro tried to point this out, but you passed on this too.

What part of what I said did you not understand? You may want to re-read all of the posts.

In any case I will consider your problem solved since you got the answer you wanted to hear. Good luck in the future.

well like i said waay in the begining all i mainly wanted to know if i bought the right ram...i dont think i was being rude at all actually and in fact there was another person on here that stated they were bein rude purposly lol but its alright its the internet no biggy lol but yea thanksok i finally got the email back from the dude....he said he called the giga-byte company to cros verify and the ram that i bought wont work with my mobo cuz its high density. and my mobo only accepts low density 64x8. wat ever that means so yea he said that i can exchange it or refund it. but he said if i got the exchange that its gonna cost 90$ more ...so i was wondering if i have to get a lower density ram shouldnt it be cheaper??Thank you very much!

Low density is not cheaper and may be harder to find. www.crucial.com and you are all fixed up.

All I found was that its apparently part of the NForce4 drivers, whcih are the motherboard chipset drivers. Not sure exactly how to fix it. I dont have a floppy, so whatever I use is GOING to have to get burnt to a CD, but thats not a problem. Should I just DOWNLOAD the most current nforce drivers and POINT the windows installation to those when it asks for the sys thing?I would try that ,

Just DL the Nforce 4 Drivers and install them, it could fix that ProblemWell, problem is its not booting windows, so htere is no real easy way for me to install them. Its ASKING for this about halfway through the windows installation, so I'm not sure exactly how to fix that problem.

dunno, im not a hardware guy.. im a virus and software guy srry..



and what does this mean

Problems & Suggestions:
Problem AGP is disabled. This may cause performance penalty.
and this

Problems & Suggestions:
Problem At least 85 HZ vertical refresh rate is recommended for classic (CRT) displays.


sorry if im asking too many questions it just im not a hardware person and i would like to learnQuote

dunno, im not a hardware guy.. im a virus and software guy srry..



and what does this mean

Problems & Suggestions:
Problem AGP is disabled. This may cause performance penalty.

on www.vmodeling.com/Report

and how do i change that rate??

Problems & Suggestions:
Problem AGP is disabled. This may cause performance penalty.
and this

Wether a person is a hard core gamer, or plays once a month, a sale is a sale. Although it's changing recently, many of the computers I've seen in adverts for lower-mid range people often had 512MB on them. By making a game that requires a minimum of 1GB would completely wipe out the possibility of lots of people potentially buying this game. Look at Doom 3. They weren't originally, but eventually they made it so the older GeForce MX cards were still supported because so many people were still using them.

Show me a game, available now, that has a minimum ram higher than 512MB?Quote

In the future of course, but I was refering to today's games. And releasing a 1gb minimum game would be bad, because there are still so many people with only 512MB.

Show me a game, available now, that has a minimum ram higher than 512MB?

I don't WANT to beat around the bush, I need help. The problem is this:

My keyboard works fine, I can type anything, no matter what.. But as soon as I hit the arrow keys (Sometimes it takes double taps to an arrow key) my computer will shutdown. No hang, no BSOD, no beep, just a complete die.. Power goes off.

I hooked up a wireless Mouse and keyboard set, and they work fine (They are USB though, I THINK) and I hooked up the other keyboard too another computer, and it never happened.

So, I think it's in the on-board PORT, which sucks big time, ut any help/insight would be greatly appreciated.Sounds like you've pin-pointed the problem...bad port. Stick with the USB keyboard or replace the motherboard.

Alan <>< Sometimes a port just goes south, but sometimes it is after a PS/2 peripheral has ben unplugged (or plugged in) while the sytem is running. Does this apply in this case?I have unplugged the keyboard numerous amount of times while the computer was on (This is also true for plugging it in, as well.. I run two different keyboards on this computer, both PS2 port operated)

Anyway, I can't plug the keyboard I currently use for this computer in while the computer is on, it just won't work. I don't think this is an issue, though.. Seems to be something common.

The thing about the bad port is, and keep in mind I have very little experiences with on-board PORTS going bad or the behavior they exhibit upon failing.. But, the keyboard works fine. I can type, even hit the left and right arrow keys, but the down arrow (And up arrow) causes a complete system shutdown. I thought if it was the computer erroring, I'd get a BSOD (Because I have the option to restart atomically turned off) but nothing. Just turns off, like the power is sucked out or something.

It's like overheating, when the computer fails and dies, that's exactly like the problem.

I'm thinking of buying a new keyboard anyway (I know it would be easier to but a PS2 --> USB connecter or something) but I need a keyboard with a Full N-Key Rollover (No limit on the amount of buttons pressed at one time) anyone know of any?PS/2 ports aren't meant to be hot-swapped, just sit in the dark and hot-swap your PS/2 port to see the sparks fly..

Does this behaviour occur outside of Windows as well? Maybe simply reinstalling keyboard drivers will do the trick in this case.By "outside" windows, if you refer to the boot process, no. When the computer loads, it does the Ram Check, drives check, etc. and I can press any key at any rate, and it won't shut-down. In BIO's I can do the same thing, soon as it boots into Windows XP (This also happens when ScanDisk boots up on a non-normal shutdown) It will happen after the big Windows Xp logo and the "Windows is now starting" moving box.

So to answer your question, it doesn't happen outside. Well, I did install wrong drivers for the keyboard (My computer picked up the keyboard as a microsoft 101-102 button keyboard, but it isn't) but that was removed, and the right drivers were installed.. Again, I removed them, and let the computer install it's own. It happened anyway, right drivers or not..

This is the reason I posted it here, because it didn't happen outside windows, I didn't want to think it was a port problem..Perhaps your installation of Windows has gone corrupt. You're virus, spyware and Trojan Horse free?

Have you tested the RAM?Well, I hope I am spyware and virus free.. I have AVG Anti-Virus, and AdWare for spyware.. I run each once a night.

As far as the ram, I tested it a long time ago, but I forget what the tool was called.. MemTest something I think.. So, I guess I haven't in awhile.Try testing the memory again using This program (Click)

Use Hitmanpro to check your system for spyware and the like, but do so in safe MODE.

Also check to see if the problem repeats it self when in safe mode, perhaps certain drivers are causing a conflict that causes your Windows installation to react in this manner.This problem doesn't happen in safe-mode...

This is good news, I think. A Driver issue seems to be the cause.. I'll go fix it now, thanks for all the help.

I have a GCC-4243N CD RW/DVD ROM. It will still play DVDs but no longer reads any type of CD. I have tried reinstalling the drivers to no avail. Any suggestions.1) Specs for both the PC and the device
2) Are the drivers the up-to-date drivers?
3) When exactly did the problem start?
4) What were you doing immediately prior to the problem starting?
5) Do you get any error MESSAGES? If so, what is the message EXACTLY as it appears?I've you've tried that then there isn't much else you can do, Have you checked all cables?, Tried different DISKS?

I believe a combo has both lasers so the cd one MUST be broke.

I bought two sticks of 512MB RAM. Everything is compaitable with my computer (IBM ThinkCentre M Series Type 8189) except for one thing it seems like. The RAM stick that came with my desktop is labeled with CL=2.5V where as the ones that I bought are of CL=2.6V. I installed them last night and my computer is detecting them. What I'm wondering is if it's alright to run them like that for an extended period of time? Will it CAUSE any damage or major slowdown that I might not expect?Here's an excerpt from Crucial.com about RAM latency:

"CL=3, CL=2, and CL=2, 2-clock
In our Memory Selector, the CAS latency of our parts is designated with "CL=3," "CL=2," or "CL=2, 2-clock." (You MAY see this written elsewhere as "CL2, etc." or "CAS=2, CAS=3, etc.") CAS latency is the amount of time it takes for your memory to respond to a command. It only affects the initial burst of data. Once data starts flowing, latency has no effect.

Latency is measured in terms of clock cycles. For example, a CL=2 part requires two clock cycles to respond, while a CL=3 part requires three clock cycles. Thus, CL=2 parts complete the initial data access a little more quickly than CL=3 parts. However, a clock CYCLE for a systems with a 100MHz front side bus is only 10 nanoseconds (10 billionths of a second), so you probably won't be able to tell the difference between a CL=2 and a CL=3 part. "

Hope this helps.

Alan <>< If it works that is a good sign.

You should always buy based on what you need, not try to RETROFIT it after the fact.

Computer info:
XP SP2 Pro
2.13G
512 Ram

Trying to install:
Twinhan DTV ATSC D&A model 32500, PCI card

I've tried their website -0-
I've tried moving it from PCI slot to another PCI slot -0-
I've tried installing new hardware -0-
When I use the disc for installation that CAME with the card, I get an error message "No supported device found! Attach the device & press "Yes" to try again or "No" to continue...." ..... so I press no to continue, then when I start the program Twinhan DTV I get another error message "Cannot support the card or driver, please check the hardware installation."


I could really use some help. How do you get a computer to see a new piece of hardware that you have put into it ?

Please ... someone surely has had this happen to them before.Give this a try, uninstall what u installed for this tv card so far.
Take the card out of the puter.
Reebot of course.
Install the CD 1st.
Reboot, check install ,then turn off puter.
Put card back into appropriate pc-slot.
See if the installed drivers work and hardware is found then.
Is the device detected by Windows at all? If it is not, the device may be malfunctioning.Tried your suggestion honvetops ... didn't work.

When I try to turn the program on ... my error message is "Cannot support the card or driver"
When I try installing the program ... my error message is "No supported device found!"

Maybe you are RIGHT RAPTOR ... I will try the card in another computer and if again it is not detected, then I will know it is not working.

Thanks guysTry a different PCI slot as well. Have you taken precautions against Electro static discharge before handling the card?Well Raptor ... with your help, I removed the card from ONE computer, put it in another and immediately it was installed and everything is working great. Now I just have to learn how to operate the program that goes with it. LOL. That's my problem.

Thank you for your ideas and suggestions. I wish I really knew why the other computer would not detect the card. Oh well, I guess it's a good thing I have more than one computer.

Thanks again.Did you try to force it to detect the card using the new hardware wizard? I assume the PC it didn't work on is the PC you WANT to use the card with. If not, well, you should read on anyway:

It should detect it regardlessly but perhaps your Windows installation isn't as solid as it used to be. You should scan for Viruses, Spyware and Trojan Horses and do a bit of cleaning up here and there by using a registry cleaner and the like such as Crap cleaner(click)

I just put together a computer for my dad and booted it up, got the "reboot and select proper boot device..." so I put in the winxp cd, pressed a key, and it restated the message. So I restarted with the cd in the drive, and it still wouldnt boot from it. I have 2 cd-rom DRIVES installed (older ones from my dads previous computer), and in the Bios, it reads both of them as being CONNECTED, as well as the hdd. I changed the boot order from Floppy, PRIMARY CD-Rom, HDD to Primary CD-Rom, Floppy, HDD. That didnt work either. Im thinking the cd rom drives may be busted, since they quit working on the OLD computer too. So I guess i'll switch out a known working drive and see if that works. Does that sound like a good plan of ACTION?

System Specs:
400w ps
4x4x32 cd-rw
8x4x32 cd-rw
Floppy drive
asus k8n mobo (brand new)
nvidia 5200 256mb (brand new)
256 ddr2 ram (brand new)
160gb wd hdd (brand new, no previous OS)swapping the cd drives sounds like a good idea. let us know how it turns out.

P.S. im assuming your hdd is IDE, because you didnt specify.Yeah, the cd-rom drives were busted. Switching a known working drive in worked. And the hdd is sata. So everything is all good now. =)thats good to hear.

ok in my 01 gateway w/ XP home

1.4 ghz cpu

384mb ram

the mobo is locked out so i cant overclock the cpu is there a way i can unlock it so i can overclock the cpu??


TIA

unlovedwarriorIf the mobo cannot overclock, then you are left with SOFTWARE solutions only, and they are not nearly as powerful or efficient.

Why do you want to burn this machine up?im just experimenting with computers and its old oneGX-MAN !! << exactly, common sense! huh15 seconds it took to DESTROY an old PROCESSOR if it ain't broke, don't fix it, believe me.i never SAID anything about fixing anything.. i just want to experiment...If you experiment with overclocking you will be fixing it soon. i know, but that will help me

attempting this weekend to attach heatsink to AMD cpu. has that "thermal pad" grey thing in the middle of the heatsink 1" x 1" grey little patch. Can I add a (little) thermal- white- grease around the edges of the heatsink with the thermal pad as well ?

Just A Little ?

Don't be messy about it

Alan <>< 10-4 >> Alan, I HOLD you responsible if i screw it up!!!

thanksPad or paste. Don't use both!Quote

Pad or paste. Don't use both!

I try to open it, and this comes up.



The volume does not contain a recognized file system.
Please make sure that all required file system drivers are loaded and that the v
olume is not corrupted.

I cant save anything on it either.

Can someone please help me? I need to use it a lot, since I need to make/edit a lot of files on dos for my COMPUTER ENGINEERING class and save them to floppy to boot from.I honestly have never had you problem before.....but,I found a shareware program at the bottom of the below website that may help you.

http://www.sirecovery.com/floppyfix.htmlQuote

I honestly have never had you problem before.....but,I found a shareware program at the bottom of the below website that may help you.

http://www.sirecovery.com/floppyfix.html

Thanks to you guys, my previous problem with being unable to access my BIOS was solved. After talking to tech support a bit, I found out that I do have a jumper (althought it was already in the right place,) and told to remove the lithium battery for a minute. I did so, and voila, I can enter BIOS setup!

The entire point of that was so that I could enable fastwrite, to hopefully solve my video stuttering problems. UNFORTUNATELY, after scouring the BIOS with a fine-tooth COMB, I found no such option. From my admitedly uninformed position, I can make a few guessess as to why.

1. My motherboard does not have fastwrite capabilities.

If this is the case, I guess I am out of luck. However, I am told most modern motherboards ALLOW for it, (I'm running a NF-CK804 model with a nvidia nForce 4 chipset.

2. My BIOS is to blame.

From what I read, fastwrite is often found in the hardware section of the BIOS. I couldn't find said section. (I am running Phoenix-Award Workstation BIOS, 7/25/06) I don't know if this is possible, but perhaps removing the lithium battery had some effect on this.)

3. Something to do with AGP.

Most of the sites I read about fastwring mentioned AGP and EDITING fastwrites in the AGP section of the BIOS. I could find no AGP options anywhere in my BIOS.

4. Video card settings.

I read that sometimes fastwrite must first be enabled in your video or graphic card settings. I am running the LATEST version of the nVidia drivers, but could find nothing referecing fastwriting or how to enable it in the settings options.

Any advice you guys have is greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time guys!

-Jaeganare you sure fastwrite would solve your problem? what kind of video stuttering problems are you having? your hardware may not suppot fastwrite, mobo or graphics card. i admit i'm not very familiar with fastwrite or what exactly it does, but i do recall seeing that option for my old ati agp card in the driver settings.

I have a DSL modem (in bridge mode) connected to a Netgear WPN824 router. I have 2 (maybe 3) PC's connected to the router.

Is it possible to share files between the systems with this setup? Or do I have to use the internet as a "GO between"?

PK
On network wizard I THINK, it asks you to enable or DISABLE file and printer sharing. Enable it and try OK, I used the wizard on both machines (this seemed the easiest way) and I got it to WORK, but only with Windows Firewall. When I TURN on my Kerio firewall on one machine, i can only share one direction. The machine trying to access the Kerio machine locks up.

I know I need to add something to my Trusted Zone in Kerio and allow File and Printer Sharing for the Trusted Zone, but I dont know what to add.

PK

I've got a standard printer/scanner COMBO from HP that works great except I need a larger scanner AREA. The standard seems to be 8.5 x 12. I've been scanning 10 x 14 magazine pages and have to scan two halves then cut and paste them together in a photo editor to get the full image.

I've checked online and so far haven't found any larger scanners. There are plenty of business/industrial type models available for huge $$$. Does anybody make a regular large size scanner for home use that's reasonably priced? I would think there'd be a demand for such a product.

Thanks.Put "A3 scanner" in Google, and START reading.Thanks! 17 x 11.5 would work just FINE! Funny I never ran across that during my earlier searches...

No problem.

When i go through My Computer and CLICK on Local Disk (C:) it brings up a serch page (picture) instead of showing the usual folders. This just occured today and hasnt ever dont this before. Also, when i insert an audio CD, and go through my computer it wont open it. It says somthing like "you have to go through control panel and edit the file types" or something. This also just occured today. It would usually open WINDOWS media player and start playing the audio file.

Info on CD drive-
Drive D:
DESCRIPTION CD-ROM Drive
Media Loaded No
Media Type CD-ROM
Name Slimtype COMBO SOSC-2483K
Manufacturer (Standard CD-ROM drives)
Status OK
Transfer Rate Not Available
SCSI Target ID 0
PNP Device ID IDE\CDROMSLIMTYPE_COMBO_SOSC-2483K_______________KKU1____\5&AMP;6EA6E49&0&0.0.0
Driver c:\windows\system32\drivers\cdrom.sys (5.1.2600.2180 (xpsp_sp2_rtm.040803-2158), 48.38 KB (49,536 bytes), 8/10/2004 8:00 AM)


Info on Hard Disk-
Description Disk drive
Manufacturer (Standard disk drives)
Model FUJITSU MHV2080BH SCSI Disk Device
Bytes/Sector 512
Media Loaded Yes
Media Type Fixed hard disk media
Partitions 1
SCSI Bus 0
SCSI Logical Unit 0
SCSI Port 3
SCSI Target ID 0
Sectors/Track 63
Size 74.53 GB (80,023,749,120 bytes)
Total Cylinders 9,729
Total Sectors 156,296,385
Total Tracks 2,480,895
Tracks/Cylinder 255
Partition Disk #0, Partition #0
Partition Size 74.53 GB (80,023,716,864 bytes)
Partition Starting Offset 32,256 bytes

Sorry if there is any lack of information. If you need more info to help me out tell me and i will get more.
Thanks for any help.Right click local disk and tell us which option is highlighted. I suspect it will be search instead of open. Try clicking open - still happen? I see the search button at the top of the Window is highlighted - try clicking it.Yeah, right click>open works. How do i make that the defult action though? And i still dont know whats GOING on with my CD drive.

You guys are wasting bandwidth.

What is the motherboard MAKE and model?

Yes, 300w is not enough.Quote

Mainboard
Bus(es) : ISA AGP PCI IMB USB i2c/SMBus
MP Support : 1 Processor(s)
MP APIC : Yes
System BIOS : PHOENIX TECHNOLOGIES, LTD 6.00 PG
Mainboard : SiS-741
Total Memory : 512MB DDR-SDRAM

Chipset 1
Model : Elitegroup Computer Sys SiS741 CPU to PCI Bridge
Front Side Bus Speed : 2x 166MHz (332MHz data rate)
Total Memory : 512MB DDR-SDRAM
Memory Bus Speed : 2x 166MHz (332MHz data rate)

recently all my hardware somehow got deleted and now i can only partly format since my usb keyboard won't respond at the bootscreen when i have to press any key to enter setup so i cant delete the old partition, etc. i was running a win2k and now dual win2k/winxp since i cant get rid of the old win2k. is there a driver i can get or something i can do to fix this and perhaps some other hardware that wasnt covered in the partial reformat. And my ps2 slots are dead, so that's not an option :-/Sounds like you don't have USB legacy support enabled in your BIOS, which explains why you can't use a USB keyboard at that point. Ironically, you'd need to enter the BIOS in order to change this setting. Are you sure you can't use a PS2 keyboard? If not, I would suggest it's at least worth a try resetting your CMOS (remove battery, or use the reset jumper if you know where it is on your motherboard). It MAY be that the CMOS defaults to include USB legacy support. If you're lucky.

If you do manage to get into your BIOS, ensure that you set the system to boot first from CDROM. (I presume you can't boot from CD at the moment.) Again, your CMOS may default to this, which would help you, because you could then boot from a Windows CD (with a bit of luck) or from a Linux Live CD.unfortunately both ps2 ports are pretty much dead and i DOUBT it will default to usb, since its an oldish model, round 2000. i'm inclined to leave it at this point and perhaps take out the HARDDRIVE and use someone else's ps2 ports.

what if i reformat/wipe in dos mode? firstly, will the keyboard work in that mode and secondly, will i be able to boot from cd automatically, since the keyboard works on the blue setup screen itself, its just getting there thats the problem, can only do automatically since keyboard doesnt respond for manual. :-/thxYou can format that drive as a slave in any other machine...
As to the keyboard you will need a PS2 keyboard to do what you are trying to do.
Is there a reason you suspect the PS2 ports are fried ? ?

patio. 8-)well, the keyboard not responding when it is in any of the two ps2 ports is reason enough

my ps2 ports havent worked for a while, they started to respond less some time back. my keyboard was originally usb and i changed to a usb mouse a year or so agoI have seen this problem so many times.

Just out of pure morbid curiousity is this a

Gateway( Should be named Crate-away)

computer?

I believe rob pomeroy has came up with all
the solutions.

However,I have not used a USB PCI Add on
Card....???Perhaps.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16812160004My dad has one of those fancy keyboards where all the function keys have all different uses like shortcuts to programs that you never use. He couldn't use his function keys in BIOS or startup, persumably because the drivers needed by the keyboard weren't loaded, and he had to borrow my good old simple keyboard. Perhaps this could be the case here?could be something like that. and no, its not a gateway, just a regular comp.

i suppose this is a 'regular old keyboard' for me, but the hardware deletion is most likely the cause so drivers are a possible/likely problem, the QUESTION is, if so, then what drivers, specifically since it doesn't work in bootup only. and obviously the good old simple ps2 keyboard wont work in this case

i am using the pci adapter 4-slot combo thingy that 'street1' pasted the link to, or something of the sort, HMM, perhaps if i tried the old half dead usb's... OK, that fixed it. simply using the old standard usb slots instead of those from the upgraded card, thanx for the help guys. Any idea what may have caused the total loss of hardware components only in the first place?
Using the motherboard USB ports for keyboard and mouse is always the right decision. although it is a difficult decision to make when your motherboard usb ports start dying out. on one hand it wouldn't be a bad idea to leave a motherboard usb port unused for 'special occasions', lol ok this thread confused me.

so you thought your mobo usb ports were fried as well as the ps2 ports? and then when you tried your old usb's, that solved everything?

someone correct me if I'm wrong.Just a thought... Time for a new motherboard, perhaps...?

Drivers were not relevant here by the way - this is a BIOS issue. You cannot install drivers into your BIOS.Quote

ok this thread confused me.

so you thought your mobo usb ports were fried as well as the ps2 ports? and then when you tried your old usb's, that solved everything?

someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Hey I need to CLEAR the cmos on my A8N SLI deluxe mobo but I don't know how to remove the battery. I don't WANT to force it and break it so some help would really be appreciated!

...... There should be a small clip that you pull back or hold to the side and then use a tooth pick or something small and idealy non metalic and flip the battery out ....... Dont force anything ........

dl65
What are you really trying to accomplish? This might be pertinent: How to Clear the Hardware CMOS &AMP; RESET PASSWORD. I'm thinking using a jumper on the motherboard may apply to what you're doing.

Can you add an AGP slot onto the MOTHERBOARD?No you must BUY a new motherboard.

http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.html

This will TELL you if you ALREADY have an AGP slot, or anything else.

i posted a message a few months ago i think the problem was an incompatible video card, though weird as that is since i tried two cards, and i have a new mobo. it works. but BRIEFLY. the computer starts and when doing diagnostics shuts off. i think that this could be the thermal pad instead of thermal grease on top of the cpu chip and i don't remember how to clean off the chip and replace it with the grease i have. plz let me know what kind of alchoholic solution or whatever i NEED to clean off the glue stickiness or whatever and perhaps if there is someplace online i can purchase it. thank you! I've heard that WD40 works well removing glue residue. I've never tried it. But I don't recomend spraying it on the chip, carefully remove the chip, put the WD40 on a soft cloth and use it that way to remove the glue.Nail polish remover (yes now there is a reason for the ladies to keep nail polish remover) and/or isopropyl alcohol.[highlight]it works. but briefly. the computer starts and when doing diagnostics shuts off.[/highlight]

If this is happening as soon as the computer starts...it sounds a little more than just a heat-sink compound issue. The chip isn't hot enough yet to cause problems if it's just booting up, unless it's been damaged somehow.

Alan <><

Perhaps a little history and specifics on the machine would be helpful?

See below.yes! i replaced the thermal pad with thermal grease and now i am installing windows!!! FANTASTIC!!! SUCCESS STORY BABY YEAH!!!! WOOOOOWe love success STORIES...

How did you do it ? ?

Newbie here
My desktop is 3-4 years old. The mother BOARD and the power unit have quit.
I replaced the mother board only to find the power supply not going.
The Hard Drive has all our family pics on it.
Can i simply transfer the existing hard drive into a new tower?It can be DONE, does the HDD have the OS on it? If not, what are you using, XP? A bit more info will help, as in what are you trying to put it in, your computer info. The guys on here need a lot of information to help properly.You may want to hook the old hard drive as a slave to the new system and save your data files. THEN you can reformat the drive and use the full capacity of it.

If you just put the old hard drive by itself in a new system it will work poorly, if at all because all of the motherboard components for the old system were included in the Windows INSTALLATION, and none of the new ones. A fresh INSTALL is always best for Windows. What version are we talking about?

Again, this makes the case that a hard drive is NOT a safe place to store vital information. They all die eventually.

i WANT to upgrade my ram and i wana know how much it would cost to upgrade it to 1GB of ram fro 256? and would it be easy? im only 13 bye the way...Quote

i want to upgrade my ram and i wana know how much it would cost to upgrade it to 1gb of ram fro 256? and would it be easy? im only 13 bye the way...

You can get a 1gb memory stick for about £50.

I want to buy one nVidia graphics CARD which should be best for 3d animations and 3d games with high graphics requirements.
Can anybody tell me the product name and price in USD?Quote

I want to buy one nVidia graphics card which should be best for 3d animations and 3d games with high graphics requirements.
Can anybody tell me the product name and price in USD?

Greetings, I have a qestion about having 2 routers hooked up together
I have a linksys and a netgear router, I was wondering if it was possible to have these both hooked up together running off each other
Like having one of the netgears ports go to the phone line port in the linksys then i would have an extra 4 ports? If i can do this would there be anything extra i need to do?If you use 2 routers you need to turn on the DHCP feature in one of them or else you'll have big trouble

Why not just get a 4 or 8 port switch, connect all your computers to the switch, then take an ethernet cable and run it into your router of choice.

Much less hassle

Alan <>< Have a readhttp://www.qudon.co.uk/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=31 You have more than 4 WIRED connections?If neither of the routers has an (automatic) uplink port, you will need a crossover cable between the two routers. Nothing else is required. A router is just a hub on steroids. And you can have a LOT of wireless connections with a wireless router.Quote

If neither of the routers has an (automatic) uplink port, you will need a crossover cable between the two routers. Nothing else is required. A router is just a hub on steroids.

Hi there,
When I boot up there is no DISPLAY(CRT monitor), no beep. But I can hear the computer running, if I manually restart a few times the monitor "kicks in" and everything seems to work fine... any ideas??
I have an intel P4 2.80 Ghz, 512 Mb RAM an an inbuilt video card -( Intel(R) 82915G Express Chipset Family?)
I have checked all the connections - they are fine
Any assistance much appreciatedwhen you manually restart, do you ever hear a beep?No, there is no beep,Any hardware / software changes recently? Any DRIVER upgrades? Did it ever work? If so, what changed?

No beeps indicates a low-level hardware issue, RAM, motherboard, power supply, hard DRIVE.

[highlight]But I can hear the computer running...[/highlight] What do you hear, fans, hard drive SPINNING up, lights on the keyboard lit momentarily?

Alan <&GT;< Yeah, it worked fine before, no recent changes,h/ware or s/ware, the only thing that changed was when i tried to boot up I could hear the fans and hard drive going, lights momentarily on the keyboard , but nothing after that, no display on the monitor, and I am not sure if it boots to XP.

Seems to work fine after a few restarts, everything is normal, but sounds like something is on its way out...Try a different monitor.

For some reason, my computer will...

1.turn on but no picture will come to screen, disc drive won't open, just none responsive-it doesn't sound normal when it TURNS on, seems higher pitched.

and then

2. When i try to turn it off it just won't turn off, even if i hold down the power button forever.

Anyone got any ideas what i need to do?? Any help would be appreciated

Thanks
Blake
1. Did this just happen.
2. Did any thunderstorms go thru your area recently, do u have a power surge protector for your puter ?
3. Has anything been making different noises as of late, ie.. the power supply, cranky noises from the hard drive area, popping sounds ?
4. Please POST your complete system profile( puter,hardware, processor, etc..) for me and others to see what u have, thats important.



Please see below. Information and history is required, UNLESS you just want a lot of guessing.

I have just built a new computer (pretty much). It comprises of:

Coolermaster Centurion Box
Hiper R-Type PSU
ASUS A8N-sli Premium M/B
Athlon XP 64 +3800
Huge Gigabyte sink
XFX 7300GT Graphics
All drives from my old computer
New Kingston Ram (1GB)

My son basically inherited my old box. Put his HDD in and it worked fine, didn't even have to reload XP. When I turned my box on it all lit up and seemed to start as it should, HDD activity but didn't POST. Also, nothing on the monitor, just stays in standby as if nothing there. Does not go to 'no signal' though.

I've checked all the plugs. I've cleared the CMOS. I have tried with one HDD, no CD Drives and EVERYTHING in between. I took all cards out and even tried without anything in at all. The RAM works fine in my son's box and I've tried various combos of that. I tried the PCI e card in the other slot too. This board has .WAV POST announcments but nothing is heard. I tend to think the board is dud but....

Has anyone had this problem or similar. I don't want to send this back unless I have to becaus it is all hassle.

CheersBad board, bad PSU, or bad build. That's pretty much all of the options. Have you ever put a system together before?

MAKE sure the mobo is not shorting out on the case. (You should really test the BASICS - mobo, CPU/fan, 1 STICK RAM and video BEFORE even thinking about putting it in the case.)I've made many, many systems although I'm certainly not an expert. Let's face it, it's not difficult buying the bits and sticking them together.

The PSU I'm sure is fine. It was bloody expensive (not always a guide to quality I know) and everything seems to start working apart from the M/B.

The build? Well I'm pretty sure that I have checked everything that I can. I have never done a build where I get nothing on the SCREEN at all. As I said, the monitor doesn't come out of standby.

M/B... well I think that's the problem, but I wouldn't really know how to find that out. I can't replace either board or card as this is the first time I have gone PCI-e and have nothing to replace them with.

I will take your advice and test them on the tabletop (albeit a bit late maybe) and hope I don't kill myself!!!Man, I hope this don't happen to me when I do mine !!!
:-/Check it with minimal parts BEFORE you mount everything in the case.

Hi....some one told me a site on this which i can't remember what it was called it told me what my computer was and how much i can inprove it with upgrades like make it a better one......can you tell me what site it was calledOut in the outback one night, this good mate was telling me about that site*!
It's google.com - Crikey!!!! 8-)pcpitstop?hi... what i mean is some one gave me a dirrect link to it and you download it and open it and it tells you about your computer and what can be added to it.....i can use google but i would not know what it is that i'm looking for......Shooting in the dark here...
http://www.sisoftware.net/
Ring any bells?It is REALLY according to your computer.Below is a site leaning towards your interests.

If your upgrading an older computer.EBAY will beat their prices hands down.


Around my neck of the woods a BUBBA would probably be a Bloke.LOL


http://www.powerleap.com/PL-iP3T.jspthanks guys but there not the one that i'm looking for it as to but simple like when you download it and then click on it it shows your own computer states and what can be done on it
Why not just post your computer specifics here and explain what you want to do with your computer that you cannot do now. We can offer such advice, and we are not trying to sell you something.

Run Everest and have it make a report and post it here. It will list ALL of the specifics of your machine.

http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.htmlYes that would be much easyier good point GX1_MAN :-/
problem with my computer is it keeps turning off when i open pages or if i press that green start button on desk top but my computer stays on and the moniter turns black like its not connected to computer but it is. I did earylier get a error report and that blamed nvidia and i don't have a clue.
here we go specifics --AMD Duram(tm)
1.82GHz, 768MB of ram
Graphics card - Nvidia GeForce4 mx 440 with AGP 8x (64) Can you try that monitor on another computer? Or, borrow another known-working monitor to hook up to your computer and see whether it works. Or, both.Yes I'll try, might take me a faw days to borrow another monitor. In the mean time i was thinking about getting a new graphics card just to be sure, can you tell me if 128mb Nvidia Geforce FX5200 graphics 8x AGP is a better gaphics card then mine is Nvidia Geforce 4 mx 440 with AGP 8x (64mb) and is it higher then a geforce 4The Geforce FX series is newer than the Geforce4 MX series, and is supposed be better. As far as the Geforce FX5200 is concerned, yes, you'd probably see better performance but the difference may not be very significant, in my opinion.

If you're really going to upgrade, you might want to go higher, assuming your computer has an adequate power supply. Here's an inexpensive GeForce 6200, with 256MB video memory: XFX GeForce 6200 / 256MB DDR2 / AGP 8x / DVI / VGA / TV Out / Video Card, for $39.99 after rebate, plus shipping.

I still THINK I'd want to verify whether the problem is the monitor or video card, before buying another video card. That card you now have should work fine with that computer - I'm assuming you're not trying to use it for hard-core gaming - for many tasks. Has it worked in the past? Did you make some change in software or hardware configuration when the problem started?I've try a different monitor and the same thing happened loaded to a black screen again so i tryed safe MODE and it worked, did my avast to check for viruses but there weren't any. i've taken out the graphics card and now i've got the screen up and i can use my computer with out the graphics card........
it happened one time when i got computer from ebay and started 2 play GAME on it but then it just turned off a couple of times but it had always work in the morning w/out playin' game

my computer as a AGP slot that supports 1.5v, 8x/4x AGP card

i've found my book that came w/computer and it says --above and caution do not use a 3.3v AGP card on this motherboard. Does this mean i can use a
2.?v if there was one ?Quote

I've try a different monitor and the same thing happened loaded to a black screen again so i tryed safe mode and it worked, did my avast to check for viruses but there weren't any. i've taken out the graphics card and now i've got the screen up and i can use my computer with out the graphics card........
it happened one time when i got computer from ebay and started 2 play game on it but then it just turned off a couple of times but it had always work in the morning w/out playin' game

my computer as a AGP slot that supports 1.5v, 8x/4x AGP card

i[highlight]'ve found my book that came w/computer and it says --above and caution do not use a 3.3v AGP card on this motherboard. Does this mean i can use a
2.?v if there was one ?[/highlight]

Ive been trying to choose from one of these cards for a few days, and i just cant seem to be able to do it, because their performance is so close.
I have an FX5200 now.

The X1900XTX seems like this "magic" card - It has too many Shaders WICH is overkill so it cant add to performance, and it has a too little ammount texture fill wich is the most important thing in any game, so that cant help it. According to it's specs its supposed to be much worse then the 7900GTX, but its not, so thats why i call it "magic", because it's specs arent as good as it's performance. Dont get me wrong, i think the XTX is an amazing card, but it has too much of what it dosent need and not enough of what it does need (wich the GTX has 2x of).

The 7900GTX, well since i have an Nvidia card right now, i feel closer to Nvidia and i think i would feel safer and better knowing that i have an Nvidia card, but i wouldnt WANT that to influence my decision, because i want to get the BEST card, not the one that i like the most because of sentiment.

I heard that each card has different features, like AVIVO or PureVideo. Anyone know anything abt that and can help me decide, id love some input.
Thnxah yes, the age OLD question of nvidia or ATI... there really isn't a right or wrong answer, both cards are great and an improvement to your system. people can argue round and round about which is better, but really it's a matter of preferance. i myself prefer nvidia, i have the xfx 7900 gtx and couldn't be happier. its a great card very fast. but so is ATI's i'm sure. you might want to wait though if possible, because supposedly they have the next lvl of graphics cards coming out soon? maybe? directx 10 cards and such i'm not sure, its been awhile since i've looked.I'd agree and wait, if not only for the price reduction that the NEW cards are bound to cause. All the new stuff that comes out DX10 compliant will cause the DX9 cards, the current high end, to drop off pretty well, im sure.

As far as Nvidia vs. ATI, well, there are lots of things that could cause changes coming up. ATI was just bought by AMD, and so that may be a boost in terms of compatibility, but it's too soon to tell. I personally have an nvidia 7800GTX, and i think its great.

if you feel more comfortable with an Nvidia card, then thats what I would suggest.Does Purevideo really cost money

No, the DX10 cards still have a way to go, and im not going to wait, they want ppl to buy their cards, they better release them before the summer.Quote

I'd agree and wait, if not only for the price reduction that the new cards are bound to cause. All the new stuff that comes out DX10 compliant will cause the DX9 cards, the current high end, to drop off pretty well, im sure.

As far as Nvidia vs. ATI, well, there are lots of things that could cause changes coming up. ATI was just bought by AMD, and so that may be a boost in terms of compatibility, but it's too soon to tell. I personally have an nvidia 7800GTX, and i think its great.

if you feel more comfortable with an Nvidia card, then thats what I would suggest.

Would just a fan really HELP? at the moment I have been putting a very large house fan to cool my computer (with side panels removed), and even that has had trouble cooling it with temperatures of up 40c while gaming, so I doubt a computer fan would be able to cool it, rather than just cooling it how would your remove the HEAT e.g. suck the heat out?Are the issues CPU temp, CASE temp, or all of the above. What kind of chip cooling is in place now?Its generally the cpu, but also the system temp and the gpu which i WANT to reduce temps

Hi all, I started having a problem a few months back, my system started shutting down by itself for no reason. It would just go blank all of a sudden. The system would sometimes run for 1-2 hours, then sometimes 30 minutes, then sometimes 5 minutes before shutting down. It was completely random.

I built the system myself and it ran great for about 2 years. Windows 2000 Server; Pentium 4 2.8 ghz Prescott; Gigabyte GA-81PE1000-G Motherboard with Intel 865PE chipset.; 1 gig PC3200 Ram (Geil) Nvidia GeForce MX4000 graphics card; 160 gig Segate SATA Hard Drive. I also had a 300 gig Western Digital IDE drive installed as a data drive.

My first thought was the system was overheating, I looked in the BIOS and it did seem like the chip was running HOT, I can't remember the exact temp but it was on the high end of the temp spec range. The case was full of dust so I blew it out and it seemed to run cooler after that ( in spec range ). The problem kept occuring and along with the shut downs I started getting lock ups, hard locks, no CTR-ALT-DLT, the only thing I could do was shut off the power. I decided to put in a new power supply and that did nothing.

I pushed the computer to the side and pulled back out an old system to use running Windows XP. I decided to pull the 300 gig data drive out and put it in this computer so I could recover some of my data, but when I tried to access it, it said drive is not formatted would you like to format it now. I said no and stuck it back in the other machine. I booted the other machine and it was now trying to boot from the IDE drive (300 gig WD data drive that I just put back in) instead of the SATA drive (which has the OS). Now I could never boot the computer with this drive installed (no OS on data drive), so I pulled it back out.

I decided to try a new motherboard and bought an ASUS P4S800D-X, I hooked everything up and tried to boot up with the Win 2000 Server SATA drive, everything looked good then I got a Blue Screen error saying Inaccessible_Boot_Device. I then decided I'd try my WD drive. I installed it, booted with a Win95 boot disk and formatted the drive and did a clean install of Win XP, after the Dos portion of setup it tried to start windows and I got another blue screen saying Unsormountable_Boot_Device, or something like that.

I then decided to go back to the SATA drive and try to get it to work, I followed some information about the Inaccessible_Boot error which said put back in the old motherboard expand some cab files and merge a registry file to fix the problem. I did this, swapped motherboards again. When I booted I was getting no video, no beeping from the motherboard, no lights on the keyboard. I cleared the CMOS, reinserted everything, tried a different monitor and nothing.

At this point I put back in the original motherboard, booted and everything came up like before Win 2000 started 10 minutes went by and it shut itself down. I had the case open and put a fan blowing directly inside and tried again. It seemed to run for a while but as soon as I touched the mouse it shut down, I tried again same thing but this time as soon as I touched the keyboard it shut down.

I then disconnected the SATA drive, and hooked up the WD IDE drive, I booted with a win95 disk and tried to install XP, everything went fine untill it rebooted and then I got the blue screen again saying Unsurmountable_Boot_Device. Same thing as when I tried to install it on the new motherboard.

I am ready to throw it all in the trash. Where do I begin? My thoughts, did I damage the P4 2.8gig processor by it running hot and is that my problem? Is the motherboard trully bad and is the new one I got bad also? Is there a problem with the SATA hard drive? Is there something wrong with the WD 300 gig IDE drive? Where do I begin? Any help , advice would be greatly appreciated. :-?holy crap, all that and still nothing,
someone will help this soon (it's early am) I'm guessing your hd might be bad.
hang on.....So, you've replaced the a) motherboard &AMP; power supply b)changed out some hard drives c) all fans are running & still have a lockup problem. Hmmm... :-?

Seems you've done a pretty extensive process to diagnose the issue. Good job Unfortunately, the problem still exists.

[highlight]Where do I begin? My thoughts, did I damage the P4 2.8gig processor by it running hot and is that my problem? Is the motherboard trully bad and is the new one I got bad also? Is there a problem with the SATA hard drive? Is there something wrong with the WD 300 gig IDE drive? Where do I begin?[/highlight]

You might try a couple of other things:
1. How many sticks of RAM do you use? If more than 1 (which I prefer) then pull one of them out and see what happens / Try different RAM altogether
2. Did you look at the processor for any discoloration from overheating?
3. Try a different video card
4. Try a different mouse / keyboard

I know this is a PITA (Pain-in-the-*ss) but it's going to be a process of elimination that will help you solve this problem.

You can do it!!

Alan <><



I am running 2 sticks of 512mb Ram, pulled one out and same thing. It ran OK until I touched the mouse then boom off. Why would it run until I touch it? Mouse movement or keyboard input? What could that relate to?

I have allready switched the mouse and keyboard.

I don't have another video card around, but will get one.

The processor looks ok

Also same thing happens in safe mode as in regular mode. I have taken out all cards and only have mouse, keyboard, and monitor connected.[highlight]I am running 2 sticks of 512mb Ram, pulled one out and same thing.[/highlight] Did you swap them around, trying both SINGULARLY?

Are your video drivers updated?

Tried booting with only the keyboard and not the mouse?

Starting to run out of ideas

Sounds like it's a motherboard issue. Can you remove the motherboard from the case with the power supply / keyboard / monitor connected and boot the system?

Alan <>< Yes tried both sticks of RAM singulary. Booted with only keyboard and no mouse, seems to run a little longer but still shuts down after a few minutes. Don't think it will run long enough to update any drivers. I did notice that if I don't touch it it will run for a long time, but as soon as I touch the mouse - boom - shut down. I scheduled it to run chkdsk at start up, it ran for hours, but I think it locked up during chkdsk as it was hanging on step 4 of 5 forever. Will keep posting ANYTHING I find. ThanksAre you using PS/2 or USB mouse and keyboard?Originally I had a USB mouse hooked up, then switched to a PS/2. Keyboard has allways been PS/2.
sounds like an IRQ conflict with the video card and the mouse...(wild guess)

video card = IRQ 2
mouse = IRQ 12

have you tried working your way to the device manager using only keyboard commands? (without touching the mouse)

try that in safe mode and see if there is a conflict. :-/Can you boot into SafeMode and, using only the keyboard, get into DM & delete the mouse & video drivers, then reboot?

Alan <>< I assume this is a USB mouse and keyboard? Do you have a real PS/2 mouse and keyboard totry with? THey may not be "kewl", but they always work. You have to do a little more process of elimination.I know this sounds stupid and you probably have done this already but have you checked tyhe pins on the drive to make sure they are all okay?

Hi

Ok i have a clients computer ASUS K8N Socket 754, with 512mb RAM, AMD sempron proessor, (not sure of the speed, and a ATI Graphics CardAnd.....? ? ?I have an ATHLON 64 3000+, 1280MB ram, RADEON x1600XT 256MB. Thanks for sharing. Is this some kind of "Dumb Post" day that I was not informed of?Yup!!! :-/

ALAN <>< I told you about it on opposites day. You OBVIOUSLY didn't know it was opposites day either.

I have recently aquired some money and ive decided to get the BEST graphics card out there, and i WANT to get the 1gb nvidia Geforce 7950, which looks awesome, but i not sure if it will be compatible with my motherboard. Because looking at some pics http://images.tomshardware.com/2006/06/05/geforce_7950_gx2/7950gx2angle1.jpg,

its bigger than my current graphics card, and i dont think theres enough space for it, my mother board has one brown expansion slot for graphics and two white expansion slot with no more graphics slots, i also have a 450w power spply, and im not sure about the compatability

my specs are:
Computer Manufacturer ASRock
Computer Model K7S41GX
CPU Manufacturer AuthenticAMD
CPU Family AMD Sempron(tm) 2800+
CPU Speed 2006 MHz
Front-Side Bus Speed 166 MHz


I am not prepared to buy a motherboard so i would like to hear of alterntives

What you can use and can afford should drive your purchase, not the other way around. If you pick the graphics card first, you may well need a new system to fully appreciate it.

Consumerism is rampant.... Thats the whole point im asking, if i CAN USE it on my comp then i will get it but i dont not if they are compatibleIs it really nessisary to spend so much money on a graphics card? Unless your monitor is 50 miles long, you won't notice any difference to a slightly lower graphics card, which will be a lot lower in price. Plus the rest of your system (ie your processor as we don't know your ram) is hardly hard-core, and so the graphics card will probably not be able to run at full speed anyway, as the rest of your computer can't keep up. My advice, go a couple of models down, and use the saved money to get new processor and possibly ram.Additionally, what youve described sounds like you only have an AGP slot, which makes sense cause it sounds like your computer is a couple of years old. That card, to the best of my knowledge, only comes in PCIx format, which would mean no, its not compatible.

You would probably do well to get a new motherboard. I'd check out socket 939 motherboards if you are going to stay with AMD, they are not too expensive and you could probably even transfer over your processor if you wanted to do the upgrade in stages.The 7950 GX2 is a good buy, even though getting a GT or an X1900XT would be the best choices.

In order to help u, i must know ur motherboard.Ther is only one 7 Serise GFX card you cna buy for an AGP system, and that the Geforce 7800 AGP

you cant use a Gefroce 7950 in the system you seam to have. i have a 7950 ^.^

Track you know the 7950GXT is 2 7900 GT's right?yes, I have taken this into consideration and I am currently doing a full computer upgrade and im getting a new 600w power supply and an nforce 4 motherbaord with dual pci express slots which should accomodate my new graphics card, as for my ram I have a full 2GB ram and a HD monitor. This card I am mainly going to use for hardcore gaming.

See what you think of the motherboard I am going to get (the first one on the page)
http://www.advancetec.co.uk/acatalog/Asus64.htmlQuote

Track you know the 7950GXT is 2 7900 GT's right?

If u were to overclock the 2 chips on the 7950 GX2 to their max potential (with a good cooler and fan) then u would be able to make them into 7900 GTXs, and then u could have in theory 4 7900 GTXs, wich would beat any DX10 card.

I reciently did a reformat of the hard drive and put on a fresh copy of windows 95. And I'm having a little trouble with the video. The computer itself is an IBM that originally came with windows 95. The video works pretty good but it has a small problem with horizontal (side to side) scrolling. When I've GOT a .jpg photo open in internet explorer and I scroll from side to side (left to right or right to left) the photo gets dropouts or colored horizontal streaks in it. A refresh clears it up until I scroll again. Also plain (single color) backgrounds on the DESKTOP have streaks in them. It seems worse at the higher resolutions. That's the best I can explain it and I'll be glad to answer any questions. Help!!Is the display adapter the original? Is it onboard video or an add-on card? How much video memory? How old is that computer? Do you know for sure that you have the proper video drivers for it?I took a peek inside the case and everything seems to be original from IBM. The video adapter is onboard but I couldn't find where to look for video memory. The computer was made ten years ago in 1996 and the MODEL number is 2136-E40. I'm not sure I have the right drivers for it. The ones I have are the ones that came with the Windows 95 disk which I purchaced about a month ago (the original disks are long gone)Is that an Aptiva? That Win 95 CD you have is not going to have the best video DRIVER for that computer, and that may be your problem. And, it may be difficult to find the right video driver, due to the age of the computer. You might go >here< and click on Detect my system and see what happens. ibm.com will have the right video driver. Windows 95 does not. Use that model number for the machine.The link I provided is IBM's site.True, but I was just reinforcing the information. That "detect" option is not the best way to find obscure IBM drivers, however. The driver matrix works a lot better.

if thats true then its lame. but oh wellQuote

if so then how COME i cant install wow on my laptop?? if it spilts the load up..

i have installed another fan and still no power. fan on power supply is working, this is a w2646 e machine, with a 2.60 intel celeron. there is no boot only the sound of the power supply runing, used pci dig. card and it said to check the cpu.
so could it be the motherboard and has it burnt up the cpu?
but for what ever reason the fan is not getting power.
ThanksReplace that CPU fan immediately if it's not RUNNING...i suggest visiting the MBoard manuf. website to FIND the correct one.To add to Patio's recommendation...also use heat-sink compound as well.

Alan <>< i pluged another fan in and it want work
but the dig, card shows that there is power to the MboardJust because the power supply fan and the VIDEO card fan work doesn't mean the header for the CPU fan should work as well. Could be incorrect / no voltage to the header (the pins where you plug the fan into).

Is the HARD drive spinning up? / Do you hear a 'beep' when the system starts? Do the lights on the keyboard above the NUMERIC keypad light up briefly when starting the computer?

There a couple ways to check it:
1. Put the CPU fan plug onto another header on the motherboard (the fan doesn't have to be strapped onto the CPU as this is a MOMENTARY test just to see if the fan spins up)
2. Check the voltage with a voltohmeter @ the header in question

Alan <><

ok, so, my secondary NEC monitor died, and i am now using an old packard bell monitor for a secondary, no matter what the refresh rate is on the packard bell or dell, the packard bell always causes scan lines in my dell monitor. could this cause damadge to my hardware? i just got a new sapphire radeon atlantis 9600 pro AGP card, i cannot have it ruined by this 10 year old relic of a monitor.

the packard bell monitor is a 1996 15 inch monitor, no OSD, no color controls, and it only displays in 800 x 600, it only interferes with my dell primary monitor when it is on. the dell primary monitor is a dell trinitron ultra scan HS1000 seriesYou've heard the old saying "...don't put new wine in old wine skins..." Don't have any technical details for you but be careful

Alan <&GT;< Sounds like magnetic intereference between the monitors. Try degausing them, and keep them as far apart as possible. It's UNLIKELY to damage your graphics card, although it could the other monitor with prolonged usage.Quote

Sounds like magnetic intereference between the monitors. Try degausing them, and keep them as far apart as possible. It's unlikely to damage your graphics card, although it could the other monitor with prolonged usage.

:-? hi
How do you replace the CD/DVD drive in a Toshiba satellite?
If have to open up the whole laptop are there any things I should look out for?
Thanks
I'm not exactly the laptop expert, but I personally WOULD be very cautious before opening up a laptop and playing around iwth the INTERNALS. Everything is pretty small, and it could be difficult to get back together if you were not completely sure with what you were doing.

Course, having said that, I'd also be the first one to go and open it up anyways. I have a Toshiba Satellite A10 and had a look last night. I thought it would be in the instruction manual, but it only tells you how to unscrew the memory bay on that. I'd be careful though; it appears that some of the screws that need to be released are marked up F5, and some are marked up F16, and i think others might be underneath the model number label and some under the Windows XP certificate of authenticity, on mine at least.Did a Google search with your make, model and serial # turn up any results ? ?

patio. 8-)Yes, you DO have to dissassemble the laptop to replace the drive. I've done it way too many times.

If you're going to attempt a repair, just make sure to:

1. Take your time
2. Take note of all the screws you remove and from where
3. Be very methodical

If you follow these steps you may be able to replace it.

When in doubt, take it to someone who has experience repairing laptops.

Alan <&GT;< Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think that the remobal process varies between different models in the ToshSat range. I'll presume you've TRIED the obvious catches etc. first though.

I'd go along with Alan's advice and just add another thing to watch out for: when you prise apart the case, certain tiny plugs may pop out of their sockets. Look into the case carefully before you fully open it, noting where all visible cables run to.

What to do for HDD PqRP PARTITION recoveryWhat to say to POST not in complete SENTENCE.

@GX1_Man
Of course i am sure... how come a newly installed HD (on which the OS has just been installed can get infected?)