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I was reliving the old days playing some DIABLO 2 on LAN for around 6 hours with my ATI visiontek x1300 512mb's memory overclocked (from 265 to 400) and suddenly the computer freezes and i hear beeps. Later through research i found out that beeps meant something and i'm PRETTY sure i heard a low beep and two high's- which means video card not responding/ reseat/replace- on my bios. It was about 80F in the room and upon OPENING the computer i realized that my belkin pre-n adapter was more or less completely covering the video card's built in FAN, with only a couple millimeters of space in between. Now i get no display at all and i'd firstly like to get my onboard graphics card working so i can see my display, then hopefully get my PCI-E slot video card working.

my computer

eMachine t6520
AMD athlon 64 2400+ cpu
not sure what kind of mobo and now there's no way to see the display
ati visiontek x1300 512mb video card

what i've tried

Checking that the monitor is working on another computer
checking the power cable for loose ends
taking out the battery to reset the CMOS, left out for about 3 minutes
taking out the PCI E video card and plugging the monitor into the onboard slot
reseating the pci e video card
powering down to let COOL for about 6 hours in a cooler room

HELPtry booting up with the pci-e video card not present & the monitor plugged into the onboard OUTLET and press the insert key as the pc boots

You have been a silly billy haven't you?

i would like to ask help regarding this problem:

WHENEVER i play games, the screen would suddenly blackout with a message that goes like this:

Attention
Out of Range
H: 27.9KHz V: 53.1H

how could I fix this?Windows version, type of MONITOR? What is the REFRESH RATE SET to?Microsoft Windows XP
Professional
version 2002
service pack 2

AOC CT740G

60 hertz


Check here: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/315614

My Cousins very old 15 inch chunky monitor is slow to work when TURNING on....

So i have been given a free "WORKING" 15 inch monitor -

The question is, is it straight forward to PLUG in/install a new monitor on a pc? WHETHER it be xp or vista? (I have found the drivers for this monitor on the HP website)

If it is straight forward, do you have any links to run through the set up of CHANGING computer screens over?

Are monitors plug and play?

Many thanks in advance
Joanne

I've always just plugged in monitors and they've worked fine. I don't think I've ever had to install drivers, so you shouldn't have a problem.most monitors are just plug 'n play. Pay attention to how you unplug the old monitor, and plug in the new monitor the same way. I never known that monitors needed drrivers, I thought as long as the video card works that you can use LCD or CRT unless its a real old pc.

I have a seeming power supply or motherboard problem with my old IBM Netvista machine running Windows 2000 SP4. Sometimes I try to TURN it on, and it doesn't turn on at all. There is no spark of life when I press the power button. Sometimes when the computer does turns on, it does not boot up (no BIOS screen, no MONITOR signal at all). The only thing that runs is the fan. I heard something spin once, either the HD or CD-ROM drive, but that's it.

Sometimes with the computer running, but not booting up, holding the power button to turn off the machine will prove unresponsive. I will UNPLUG the computer, it will turn off, then plug it back it and it will automatically turn on and run the fan only again.

Sometimes the power button does turn off the machine after pressing and holding the button for 5 to 20 minutes. Then I will turn the computer on again and it will boot NORMALLY. I've already taken the machine apart, and find no obvious problems with the power button connections, motherboard, or power supply. What is the problem here?

Thanks for any help.The best way I can think of to get to the bottom of the problem would be to test the pc with a different power supply, if you have one.

Alternativly you could try testing the PSU by shorting two of the connecting pins together to attempt a manual start (of the PSU only, not the whole PC). Instructions can be found at: http://www.duxcw.com/faq/ps/ps4.htm

As the website sais though AT YOUR OWN RISK! And this method will only prove that the Power supply is starting correctly.

If the PSU is ok then you could have a more serious problem i.e motherboard or bios fault.Unfortunately I don't have another power supply. I've been looking into bios and motherboard faults, and I'm going to chance that maybe a low motherboard battery may be the issue, since before this problem, I noticed that the system clock in Windows would lose track of the time. Sometimes the only way to get the computer to turn on would be to poke the motherboard itself, so I don't know if that may be the problem.

Since I had this 256 mb of ram laying around I thought that I would use it. During previous experimenting it told me that it could only see HALF of it. I thought it was better then the whole stick being bad. So I stuck it in a machine to give it a little more power. Know when I BOOT it up it wont load the os, it was working would this be at fault? I had to already replace the video card to get it to work which is probably still good.Why don't you just take the RAM out and see if the machine works correctly? I think you said that the RAM was installed as an extra memory boost.It will boot an I dont like pulling stuff out if I dont have too. Seems like I will just windered if I couldnt have used it.Well the only way to tell if the ram is the culprit is to pull it out and try it. You could always try a free RAM testing program. They usualy boot from a floppy disk or pen drive. They used to be quite common but I can't find any now but maybe another member knows of some.MemTest...Well it wasnt seeing the Drive in the BIOS an I dont have any spares at the time, sorry I'm fairly busy tring to do other things an just need some dumb help now an again but this was a working a working drive. Whatever.I thought you were TALKING about ram?I was, I said it couldnt boot the OS which made me think the ram was the problem cause it did have problems. Turned out its the drive.Okay so I checked the IDE cable an its not the problem ehter I tried two drives it SEES the one an the other isnt seen.Well when you start a topic about ram and suddenly switch to a hard drive problem, it is a little hard to keep up.I didnt want to start a new topic an it turned out that it wasnt the RAM at fault

When I shut the COMPUTER down, in about a minute it starts back up. I thought I had a virus in the computer so I completely restore the computer. The computer is a COMPAQ presario 6000Try unplugging any USB devices & see if it still happensOk will tryI recently subscribe to Road Runner and when I unplugged that cable the computer does not START back up. What do I do Next?Road Runner? isn't that Time Warner's cable INTERNET service? If so, and you are using a USB cable to link the cable modem to the PC, you could try using an Ethernet cable instead. It usually works better that way.
thanks I'll try thatcould that not be the result of Wake-On-Lan (WOL) features on a NETWORK card?

I have just done a new instal of XP sp2 on a formatted Maxtor diamond max32 HDD. I have installed new PSU ALONG with new:
Biostar GF7050-m2 mainboard
AMD Athlon 64 x2 6000+ skt-am2 cpu
4GB DDR2 800MHz non registered unbuffered Ram (2x2gb sticks)
Spire skt-am2 heatsink and fan

After windows asked to restart it then started to load but then blue screen CRASHED with the following:

STOP: C000021a (fatal system error)
The system manager initialization system process terminated unexpectedly with a status of 0x0000263 (0x00000000 0x00000000)
The system has been shut down


Can anyone help me with this. I would GUESS it is some kind of hardware failure but all the components seem to be working OK.Try here: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/156669/Try an install with just the essential components: 1 stick of ram, just the hard drive and only the mouse and keyboard plugged in.
Also check your motherboard documentation to make sure that you have everything hooked up right . And then check it again Thanks all for advice. Have got further now, it was the cmos jumper set to clear not normal. For transit i suppose, DOH. Now having further probs tho see new post on CPU frequency.
Thanks again for help
Try 375 MHz. Listed as official memory clock speed. ( 3000 MHz / 8 )
Thanks now tryin that
Nope still not wantin to know. System boots too info screen giving memory test info type of memory etc but says at bottom

Warning! now system is in safe mode
Please re-setting cpu frequency in the cmos setup

Press f8 to enable system configuration
Press f9 to select booting device after post
Press f1 to continue, del to enter setup
01/10/2008-nf-mcp68-6a61mb01c-00

Have tried f8 and f9 but nothing happens . del onv gets me to bios and f1 leads to blue screen as no operating system on yet.
Any ideas PLEEEEEEEEEASE before i resort to the big hammer.
did you check that RAM is right for the board?
came with it as all in one PACKAGE. Is DDR2 800mhz which is what board supports and is showing up ok on boot screen.set memory speed to 200 & work up till it gets unstable.
ok will try that but will leave it for a while else i will end up usin the hammer lol. Thanks for advice will keep you informed and be beggin for more help soon no doubt.
Something could be faulty among your new purchases. As with all new builds, check everything is seated OK.

Thanks all for your help and advice. Now have system up and running Hurrah!
After all that I followed Dias de verano's advice and blow me if it didnt run straight from 201 the first number. Boy did I laugh (NOT).
Once again thanks for help and hope you all have as good a day as I now am.Glad to know you're up and running... You can try and increase the memory clock until it gets unstable, but on the other hand you may be happy with the performance as it is right now.

ECS 915G-A i915 Socket 775 ATX MB w/VID SND & LAN
Intel Pentium 4 550 3.40GHz 800MHz 1MB Socket 775 CPU
Thermaltake CPU Heatsink/Fan Model CL-P0441
Micron Technology 1GB DDR2 RAM PC2-4200 240-pin DIMM
GenMax 400W 20+4-pin ATX PSU w/SATA
12-Bay ATX Computer Case w/Front Panel LED
Sleeve Bearing 3 x 3 inch Case Fan
Antec 80mm case fan
LG GSA-H55N 20x SuperMulti DL DVD±RW IDE Drive
Western Digital 80gb EIDE Hard Drive
Floppy Drive

BIOS: AMiBios v02.57 release 6/27/06

- After sitting idle for 5 minutes on the hardware monitoring screen of the bios, cpu temp 62C, case 28C
- After approx 15 minutes....cpu temp 66C, case temp 32C and the machine just shuts down....
- using on board graphics and sound, only card is a PCI 56k modem

The Thermaltake was a recent upgrade, so was the second case fan and I flashed the bios to it's current release.

The only things not brand NEW are the hard drive and floppy.

I've had the case completely open with no drives/pci cards installed...didn't help
I've had the case down to just it's frame with nothing installedI don't think you're seeing a CPU thermal shutdown (a "thermtrip") here. That happens somewhere around 100 C. Pentium 4s run hot. 66 degrees C is somewhat warm for idle, but should not shut a P4 down.

I am running a 3.0 GHz P4 Prescott core in my little Shuttle. The Smartfan setting in the BIOS runs the fan at ultra low speed until 65 degrees C is reached, then raises the fan 250 rpm for every 1 degree over that, and sets the fan to 100% speed if 80 C is ever reached. It idles around 48-50 and gets up to 64-65 at full load, e.g. divx encoding. It has been fine for 3 years like this. Once, when the original fan died, the cpu temp went up to 93 C (yes, 93 Celsius) and the PC was working fine. I heard the fan go quiet, glanced at the temp readout and shut down at once, though!

Case TEMPS look fine. So I am doubtful that your shutdowns are temperature related. I see everything is brand new, so I would be checking RAM & cpu seating, that the RAM is good and actually compatible with that motherboard, that RAM timings are right in the BIOS, etc. As for the temps, I'd CHECK that the thermal compound is properly applied to where the cpu & heatsink meet, and that any fan settings in the BIOS are in order.

I take it you have not yet installed Windows, you won't have time if it shuts down after 15 mins. if you had, you could take a look at the event log I suppose.

Maybe running Memtest86 would be interesting.


Actually, when I first built the machine it ran fine. I did get XP installed including all of the Windows updates and delivered the machine. The next day, my client called and said the machine just started shutting itself off. I've been a day or two a week for the last 2 months trying different things..

I did try different MEMORY with the same results. (2 different STICKS of micron for the 1st & 2nd time, 3rd time was kingston).

I just ran memtest86 v3.4..........it ran just over one minute and the machine shut down!!

I installed the new cpu cooler about 2 days ago......I had the whole thing stripped down...motherboard out of the case and all.........and I made sure that everything was seated properly when I rebuilt it. the heatseak had the preinstalled thermal gel on it.I wonder about the motherboard.

I have an outdated HP DeskJet 710C color printer from 1999.

Now, I have no idea weither the printing problem lies within the printer or the ink cartridges. When I pressed print, instead of blue and red, everything turned out magenta, and instead of yellow, I GOT white.

Now, the new ink catridges I'm using was sitting there unused for over a MONTH, so that may be the problem. The ink must have dried up.

But, before I changed to the new ink cartridges, the printer had the same exact problem. Now, I'm not sure if its a cartridge problem or a hardware problem within the printer b/c it old.

Does anyone know and answers/solutions?

ThanksWhat Windows VERSION? Did you try to reinstall printer, update driver?Quote

But, before I changed to the new ink cartridges, the printer had the same exact problem

It is not really worth doing much to try to revive a 9 year old inkjet.

i WANT to cool my cpu down as much as can be preferably without water cooling. any advice WOULD be great. i've already got 3 case fans INSTALLED and am currently getting about 50c on an amd athlon 64 x2 dual core 6000+This heat sink and fan has pretty good reviews. Are you currently using stock cpu cooling?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186019it didnt come with one so i got this one Thermaltake TR2-R1 / AMD Socket AM2/939/754 / Aluminum / 92mm Fan / CPU CoolerBe sure to use Arctic Silver Thermaltake Compound vs the el-cheapo white silicon/aluminum oxide paste that comes with most heat sinks. It has a better (quicker and longer lasting ) thermal transfer rating. The white STUFF dries up over time quicker than Arctic Silver.

I lost my one dedicated UT99 Servers, a Pentium III 850Mhz, a few years back due to the cheap white thermaltake drying up. I was hosting the Massive-Bedroom map which is like a Toy Story layout deathmatch where up to 16 players can compete, or a combination of AI and Human players. I was running it 8 AIs and 8 Human Players and it crashed in the middle of our WAN Party ( WAN because we all played from our homes all over the US and a few players over seas.)

Ever SINCE then, I always use Arctic Silver thermaltake, after troubleshooting to find the white thermal take was dried up into a discolored from CPU breakdown"cooked"chalk like material.

Hi dear friends!

I Have a USB External Hard drive.When I connect it to any PC, it is recognized by PC but the drives or partitions doesn't appeare in My computer. Also when it is connected to PC, the Hard drive name in Device Manager is shown as "? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?" Question Marks.

I used it yesterday and It was fine.I dint know what happend to it.

Does anybody have any Idea about it?

Is it possible to repair it?

I have Family Photos in it and is it possible to recover it?

Thanks
FarahmandFirst, before we do anything, check to see if it works on another computer.Thanks My dear friend!

I checked it on many other systems but it has the same problem.

It is recognized by those PCS but its name shown as: "? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?" question Marks in "Device Manager" and at "Found new hardware" notification message.Right click My Computer and select Manage then Disk Management...
Find the drive there and right click it and select Properties...
REPORT back with the results.Yeah, Patio is on the right track, it may have been corrupted, too. in which case you may need to RUN an extensive scandisk on it.

OR

the little board inside the enclosure has crapped out on you and needs replacing

you could just remove the drive and SET it to slave (if it is IDE) or put it into a spare sata port somewhere and try that wayHi friends!

Thanks a lot!

I toke photos and here they are:


&


It doesn't appear in "Disk Management" too.

My windows language is Turkish.
Wait a sec, so it does NOT work on other computers?Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on December 16, 2008, 02:33:05 AM

Wait a sec, so it does NOT work on other computers?

I checked it on many other systems but it has the same problem.

It is recognized by those PCS but its name shown as: "? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?" question Marks in "Device Manager" and at "Found new hardware" notification message.

Kurtiskain....how can you answer Farahmand's question?

Hi dear friends!

I Have a USB External Hard drive.

Thanks My dear friend!

I checked it on many other systems but it has the same problem.

Also, why the signature on every post?

And there are either the Logic Board inside the enclosure itself is stuffed, or the hard drive inside is corrupt (from disconnecting and connecting, without safely removing)..which is very unlikely as even then, it would show up as a RAW partition.

**UPDATED.
ok, so i reset the CMOS and had everthing disconnected but the ram, and cpu, and put in a diffrent power supply (one i know works) and it beeped, showed up on the screen, and WORKED......but.....i turned it off again and hooked up the dvd reader/burner and hdd ( so i could put in windows xp to wipe the drive and boot) and it went back to doing nothing.**

That was the problem, i did manage to fix it though. It seems that my motherboard was makeing contact with the wall of the case....it must be shorting th mb or somthing, i put a hard plastic washer behind each screw and it seems to be working fine, thanks everyone for your help, hope this helps some other people.Before we all go chasing off into oblivion, (I've read too many computer troubleshooting stories)....

1. Is the monitor on?

2. Does the monitor work?

3. Have you checked whether or not the power supply is high enough wattage?

4. Is the monitor hooked up to the correct port? Have you tried different types of cables (If that's an option)? VGA, HDMI, etc.

5. Do you have a dedicated graphics card? If yes, is there a dedicated power plug to it (PCI-E cards, have, if I'm not mistaken, a wire)? If yes, is it plugged in to the motherboard?

6. Does the BIOS beep? Does the fan ever spin down?

I may not be the one to diagnose the problem, but I'm pretty sure that it's not a power supply problem, however the motherboard could be the culprit if it got damaged somehow.yes, the monitor is working, i was useing it earlier today. the powersupply should be powerful enough, 400 watts good? there is no graphics card, i am useing the integrated (so dont need as much power)
monitor is VGA. if you would like i could list the componets i added.
Again for the power, all i have besides the CPU(amd x2 6000+) is a DvD burner, one Hard Drive and a wireless card. the fans do not spin at top speed ( so i assume then are spinning down )
i do not hear any beeps.do the HD and DVD drive cables have notches on them to ensure correct orientation?

I had some 80-conductor cables a while back that relied on the user knowing the pink strip goes with PIN one.

remove the IDE cable from the drives and try to boot

If that fails...
re-seat everything too

If that fails, remove everything except the CPU and try to boot and see if you get beeps (you should get no RAM installed error ) unless you have no speaker plugged in

If not I would waste no time returning the board and components for a replacement.
----------------
Now playing on Winamp: Rise Against - The Sufferer & the Witness - 03 - Ready to Fall
via FoxyTunesI would check the cables going from the case to your motherboard(speaker,HDD light, reset, power, etc..). Other than that, I would check the battery on your board and all of the jumpers on the board. I would recommend reading your whole motherboard manual for all board/jumper settings. If that doesn't work, return the board. More than likely, you should have to reformat that old hard drive either.Please go Read the top post.When you swapped the PSU, did it start first time? Or did you have to restart MULTIPLE times?

Let me reason a couple things out.

1. PSU is known to work.

2. MB is unknown.
2b. MB worked once.

3. When DVD and HDD connected, MB suddenly doesn't work.

One other question: What's the wattage rating on the verified PSU?

Here's a couple things to try:

1. Disconnect the DVD and HDD. Does it work again?
1b. If yes, then try just plugging in the HDD.
If this works, I think that it may be PSU related... why or how, I'm not sure yet.

2. Try leaving your computer on for around thirty minutes, and then turning off, and after about three seconds, restart. If this works, then I think your problem might be heat/temp. related... something on the MB doesn't make contact well.

The more I think about it, the more the MB seems to be the culprit.

Nihil sine Deo,
Sharkfin
Quote from: dvnhrlshml on December 16, 2008, 01:37:25 PM

Please go Read the top post.

Hi! My HDD with windows 98 crashed and a friend's HUSBAND installed a new HDD with windows 2000 Professional. I have lost contact with these friends and now my new HDD has crashed (I think). Both HDDS are in my computer and when I turn on the computer all I get is the initial screend that say "Windows 98" and "Windows 2000 Professional". I tried booting in Safe mode, last known configuration, etc and nothing happens. The MONITOR also stopped working and I am wondering if some sort of power surge damaged both. I hope to atleast get my photos and some personal info off this computer if it turns out that this computer is permanently kaput. Any suggestions?
laorn84To RETRIEVE your data your best bet is to HOOK up the drive as a slave drive on a working machine that has a burner.
Then you can copy/burn what you need from it.
Tutorial

To do repairs you will need a Win2K and a Win98 CD...

I got a maxtor hard drive that was messed up. I tried to look at the site for some sort of hard drive tool to check the drive before I tossed it. My search got me to the seagate web site and a boot DISK for tools called seatools.

I ran the LONG test and it showed over 99 errors. Drive is bad and I am thinking trash it. But than I noticed a repair all errors button. After I ran it the drive checks out fine.

I am not sure if I can trust the drive or it really didn't fix it. So does anyone know what seatools really does? And should I toss the drive?

Thanks
SeaTools does a full check for bad sectors...if it finds them it marks them as unusable which is why you probably got a clean bill of health on the 2nd pass...
The drive may be fine for data storage but as a boot/OS drive you may want to consider replacing it.
There is no rhyme or reason to HDD failures,,,i've had HDD's that had bad test results and SMART WARNINGS out the yin yang run for 2 years afterwards...
That being said i've also had drives that checked out healthy fail 2 weeks later...
It's the Nature of the beast i'm afraid.Thanks. That pretty much what I figured....to bad it was my "C" drive....OH well...

I already got another drive and rebuilt the machine. I will add this drive BACK and use it for storage....maybe use it for downloading.

Thanks again....

Hi all. I'm having a bizarre issue with my system and I was hoping someone here might have seen this before.

Here is the system for reference:
XP SP3
Q6600 (stock clock)
Zalman cooler
8800GT
2GB Ballistix (stock timing)
Gigabyte GA-P35-DS4 v2
OCZ 1000W PSU
No component over a year OLD

Issue:
A month or so ago, my computer would not always reliably boot. I turn it on, the fans and drives spin up however the monitor never goes active and after ~10 seconds, the system powers off and then on again repeating the cycle. It will not stop doing this unless I hold the power switch or remove the power. At a seemingly random point, the computer will simply boot correctly and everything is FINE. I can run Crysis (or whatever) for hours without heat issues or any other issues.

Note: When cycling the monitor inputs, it does display the different modes so I know the monitor does work.

NOW...

Two days ago, the computer stopped booting at all. Nothing I've done has gotten it past the initial fan/drive spin up. In the last day, I've swapped out the video card and mainboard to no avail. The PSU and RAM are both only a few months old. I've connected different hard drives with different cables with no help (did not expect it to).

Wait, there's more...
Back when I was having the boot issue only intermittently, bringing the system out of standby would *always* bring the computer back. Never a problem coming out of standby. This tells me that the trickle of power for the RAM kept everything 'alive'. I've tried booting with only ONE stick of RAM but this has had no effect.

So what does everyone think? CPU? There are no beeps from the mainboard - even when nothing is installed on the board (such as RAM or V card). This goes for the GA-P35-D4S as well as a temp P31 based board I tried today.

Thanks for the help!

Sean
That's interesting,
as for your continous re-booting, the pc only does that if it notices problems during booting
( there might not have been enough power outputted to important components, causing them to not work)

No beeps, means there's no faulty or misplaced parts. (your good there)


The rest of your problems seem, like they can't be diagnosed over the net, there might be some things you need to find out yourself.

So, as far as i know, there are no faulty parts, and there might be problems with your power supply.





I vote for the power supply. I know its not old but they still can go. Can you get another one to test with?

An update for anyone that runs across this post via a search...

The culprit was two items - the RAM and the PSU. Switched to DDR2 800 RAM (versus the 1066) and it works fine. While testing the system, the PSU blew out.

Reason for the RAM: It is suspected that the P35 chipset the mobo is based on just does not always get along with RAM that runs at +0.4v (stock). Going to try with the new version of the RAM from Crucial that runs at +0.2v.

A note: OCZ and Crucial have been great to work with. There is a list of preferred vendors in your MBoard manual...
This is especially important to have the board run at 1066 at least it is on my ASUS board.
I wound up with OCZ.

Hi
I've had this problem for about a year and a half now, and nothing I seem to do is solving it! I even took it to a specialist and they were clueless about what was HAPPENING.

So my problem is with most 3D games, old or new. After about 10-20 mins of playing the game, it crashes in an unusual way. All the textures in the game are swapped to some random texture, and I get lines and shapes in my screen making it impossible to play. If I stay on the game for another 2 or 3 mins then the entire computer will freeze and the only way to get back is to restart. This has been happening, without fail, ever since I upgraded my motherboard, CPU and graphics card.

When posting on similar forums a number of suggestions have been:

Upgrade my PSU, which I did a number of times, I am now using an EZCool 600W unit.

It couldve also been the temperature problems (which I was really adament it WOULD be), however when I ran NVIDIA monitor while playing games the highest temperature in my GPU was 70 degrees, which I believe to be normal for a game? (I was playing CS Source by the way, which worked fine before the upgrade) Also when I took it to the repair shop the fitted a new CPU so I don't think its anything to do with the thermal paste etc. My Fan set up is also quite good.

I also tried uninstalling my Graphics card drivers and running DriverSweep, then reinstalling properly and this didnt work, although it SEEMED to help at first, but then it just reverted to its old ways. I also have the most up-to-date drivers on my GPU so it's not that. And I'm sure I have enough RAM.

Recently I had the idea that maybe my motherboards on board graphics card could have some sort of conflict with the one I have put in?

My computers specs are:

Windows XP SP2
AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual
2.00 GB RAM
78.1 GB of free space on my Hard Drive
NVIDIA Geforce 8600 GT
ABIT NF-M2S Motherboard with integrated Nvidia Geforce 6100 graphics.

If any more information is needed I'll gladly get it for you.

Please help, as I have used a lot of TIME and money on this machine, and I'm beginning to despair!
Thanks
NiallThe thing i can think of is amount of RAM or Graphics card RAM. If you have the video settings to high it will do this because ive had the same problem before i turned the graphics settings down and that fixed it. @ 70C you are a bit hot for that CPU...

Source

You may want to consider some extra cooling solutions...
On that board how close is the vid card to the CPU ? ?
Quote

my GPU was 70 degrees

I'm using a Seagate model ST3300601U2RK external hard drive with Windows XP. All in all the thing works pretty well except that after about thirty seconds after turning on, it goes to sleep on me. The light stays on, but the hardware's internal activity stops. Even if I'm looking at a folder or working on a file located on the drive, it will go to sleep after a while.

I can get it turn turn back on again by opening a folder or file I hadn't yet accessed, but I have to wait about 10 seconds for it to start running again. Since I'm moving back and forth a lot between programs and source files, it really starts to make THINGS drag on. Is there any way of turning this sleep feature off?

Just for your information, I've looked at Seagate's website and looked through all their supplemental info on the hard drive in question and nothing goes into specifics beyond increasing "efficiency". Most of what they have are basically just pamphlets. I've also thoroughly searched this site for the last couple of days trying to find anything regarding the subject, but I've COME up with nothing. I've also tried exploring the disk manager in the Computer Management utility, but I can't find any options or tools to change on the device except changing its associated drive letter or formatting it altogether.

Any ideas?Did you check Power Management settings?The only power management settings I can find are for the computer itself in the Power Options utility under the control panel. I've got everything set to 'never' and hibernation deactivated there; though I don't think it affects the external HD. I've looked for power management settings for the HD, but they don't seem to exist anywhere. I've gone through the HD's properties a couple times, but aside from the standard disk tools of error-checking, defragmentation, and backup, there're no real tools or options.

If there are other power management utilities for external HDs, please let me know.In Device Management right clik all your USB root hubs and select Power...uncheck "allow Windows to turn off this device to save power"...Looking through Computer Management and the Device Manager, all I can see when right-clicking either a USB hub or the hard drives themselves is, at most:

Update Driver...
Disable
Uninstall
---------------------
Scan for Hardware Changes
---------------------
Properties

I do not see power options for any of them. Am I still looking in the wrong place? I still can't find any settings regarding my hard disks.Right click, then select Properties, then Power. only on the hubs though, there won't be anything in the external HDD's properties.
patio just missed a step in the midle i'm losing all skillz Calum...... Thanks, Calum, for the clarification. I unchecked the option for both my usb hubs. My hdd is still going to sleep after a short interval of inactivity. Any other suggestions?Reading up on a few customer reviews it seems others have had the same issues with this drive....
Does the documentation say anything about power saving features for the drive itself ? ?
NONE that I have found whatsoever. Looking at Seagate's site earlier, they've buried the model hard drive that I have under all their NEW advertisements for their new hard drives they're trying to push. In the documentation for mine, it seems it was originally intended for backup storage, but I can't imagine they would completely overlook its potential as a standard external hdd. Hard to say.Both sites i went to for reviews stated it was a discontinued item...
Do not despair however most Seagate drives carry a 5 yr warranty ....longest in the regular drive business.
Customer support from them has always been first class.
Best of Luck.Thanks folks. I appreciate the help.Are you sure it's 30 seconds?

From: <[emailprotected]>
Reply-To: <[emailprotected]>
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2006 14:44:21 -0500
Subject: Re: ST3300601CB-RK
Hello,
Unfortunately this drive cannot have the sleep mode turned off, as it is a
safety feature to keep the drive intact. It is not a setting on your
SYSTEM, it is a setting on the drive that goes into effect after 5-10
minutes of inactivity.

Nicholas W.
Seagate Technical Support
Thanks for the closure, Nicholas. I'm glad it's not my computer's system settings after all.

...What does the BIOS report?

Windows xp pro sp2
Mobo - asus p5gd2 premium
Lga775 - prescott 3.2ghz
4 gigs 533 ddr2
160 gig raid 0
ATI HD4850
700w PSU
Water and air coloed

When in COD4, I suffer from TERRIBLE fps and split second lockups. As soon as I join frames drop to about 50 fps. I have everything set as low as it will go, and I am not overclocking at all. Nothing is overheating either. The more people standing around me, the worse it gets. The more smoke, fire, even wrose. This happens if I am in a full server or an empty one.

The only thing sharing the IRQ is the Microsoft UAA bus driver. I have tried changing drivers, disabling system functions, doing updates, running all stress tests and even bought new memory, and power supply. All tests have passed. All drivers give the same results. I also changed bios settings in an attempt to figure it out, but changed them back as it never made a difference.

This was never a problem before and I cant FIND the conflict. For a long time I was guessing that the UAA bus was conflicting with the video card. Sending sound and video information at the same time. I just reformatted and same results.

This is not a processor, Hard drive, memory, or video card issue. I used a x1900xtx before the hd4850 and the game played great. But then all the sudden, and I really can't pinpoint why, I started getting this problem. So I bought the hd4850. Any help would be insanely appreciated, I am about to put a fist into this thing.Original game or an "ahem" version ? ?you don't have auto updates on??? Haven't updated to something beyond SP2 like
SP3 maybe ? MS updates can sometimes play havic with systems....and it's like
pick and choose...some work fine others cause issues...!!! Even the incremental ones, not
just the full blown updates....!!! IMOOriginal game

I have reformatted and experienced this problem with all updates or without any updates at all*chokes on lunch*

Frame rates DROP to 50 fps?!?!!

Kids these days.

I suppose you've reseated the video card, RAM, etc.? Do you experience this er, problem, with any other games?



Is this only for online play, or does it happen when offline too?Quote from: Shark Fin 101 on December 16, 2008, 08:38:53 PM

*chokes on lunch*

Frame rates DROP to 50 fps?!?!!

Kids these days.

It's the hardware.
If the glitches continue in the BIOS, where no software related to the card is being used, there's no other explanation.
Someone ELSE may have another opinion, but I'm convinced it's the hardware that's dead.
Whether the game caused it or it's just a coincidence, I don't know.Haven't quite read the topic in detail but I skimmed through it, here's my two cents;

You can find someone who'll REPLACE the system board if Dell won't..Plenty of people out there who enjoy doing that. For a price, of COURSE.

By the way, I'm not sure, but a 7900GTX sounds more like an add-on card than an actual videocard CHIP so perhaps just replacing the videocard (If it is indeed at fault) WOULD be a cheaper solution.

Here are some more ideas before doing any of the above.

Clean out the laptop cooler.
Reformat the hard drive and install Windows XP to make sure it's not a driver issue or virus attack before you write the laptop off.

Google for your laptop name + problems and see if more people report this problem and what they did about it

Did a quick google ( yahoo actually ) and came up with one of my own threads .

I think I'm going to go for a new one, although that will take some time.

A friend is going to give me Fallout 3 for Christmas too ....

Anyway, anybody know if Dosbox games can function without a graphic card? Or what other games can?


Ow yeah, and thanks for everybody for trying to help me out!Raptor - the graphics chip isn't replaceable. Sometimes the 7900GTX is, in this case no (at least not as far as I can determine), I already checked.
Replacing the system board is an option, my only reservation is that the board itself might be a bit hard to find and the cost could be pretty prohibitive.
Cleaning out the cooler might help, I agree.
Reinstalling Windows won't though, as the problem occurs in the BIOS too.Is it a good chance that cleaning out the cooler might help? I'm terrible at laptops and only want to do this if it is risk free.

I just recently bought a CUSTOM built computer from my friend and installed a new hard drive due to problems on the old one. Now the wireless card, sound card and built in ethernet card do not show up in the device manager. I'm not sure at all what could be the problem. I tried INSTALLING all of the drivers that I recieved with the computer, but still no luck. I can't even get on the internet with it to INSTALL different drivers. If anyone could help me that would be great! It is a Gigabyte GA-7N400 Pro motherboard if this is needed information. THANKS alot guys!!Did you re-install the motherboard drivers ? ?
They will be on the Gigabyte Driver CD you should have gotten...
If you didn't TRAVEL to their website.I did no recieve the motherboard driver disk. I went to the Gigabyte web page, but I have no clue what drivers I need.. Would I need the chipset drivers??Yes.
The Ethernet drivers should be in the chipset package...
However if you install the chipset drivers and the ethernet is still outt there may be a seperate driver for it

Or call your friend and get the CD. Nice thing about the CD is you have them when needed and it usually installs all that are needed for operation..

A pentium D 805 dual core (2.66) or a prescott 3.0? Also, do games utilize both cores or are they single core applications?

Thanks!Neither. They're both Prescotts and get super-hot.

Most games are single-core apps, but some use multiple-cores (Flight SIMULATOR X, for example).

If using Intel processors, STICK with Core 2 or better...Well, I have a 805 ALREADY and I read that they are super over-clockable ( 4.0+) and stable if they remain cool. Since most games only use a single core I was thinking of buying a nice cooling system and doing it. I have a Gigabyte P35 DS3L motherboard so it should be able to handle it. I was reasoning that this processor overclocked would be better than upgrading to more expensive processor. I dont know much about it though. Ive been doing days of reading up on overclocking this processor and am confident that I could do it safely, plus this is my spare computer.

Tell me if im right here.How much was the CPU you bought ? ?
What level would you be looking at OC'ing it ? ?
What would be the price of the equivalant CPU ? ?1. it was free
2. as high as I can, maybe 3.8 ish
3. I have no ideaI guess im asking if a overclocked 805 at a 3.8 is comparable to a core 2 at a similar speed. I really dont know much about this stuff.

Right now I really cant play crisis to well at a good detail level & resolution (1280x1024). I do have a 8800 gt 512 and 2 gigs of 6400/800 in this rig. I want to be able to play it smoothly all the way through, right now I cant.

What advise could someone give?An overclocked 805 will be destroyed by any Core 2 Duo.
A Pentium D will not handle games like Crysis properly. If you overclock it to the max (yes, that CPU does clock well) it might shape up to a low end Core 2 or ATHLON X2, but you'd NEED some serious cooling which would cost more than a better CPU, and it still wouldn't be great for Crysis.
Crysis does however use multiple cores.
Hope this helps.Quote from: pcjoseph1974 on December 18, 2008, 07:26:12 PM

1. it was free

I have bought all new parts. No OS installed yet. BIOS is working fine. Mobo input on the IDE ribbion cable is plugged into the Mobo.The master input on the IDE is plugged into the CD/DVD DRIVE. The jumper on the drive is set to "Master". It has power. The first boot device is CD-Rom. I have a bootable DVD in the drive. When the BIOS is starting iam pressing F8 to select boot device. Problem is that it doesn't recognize the CD/DVD drive. So how can I get the BIOS to recognize the CD/DVD Drive?What else is on the IDE cable ? ?
Have you TRIED another cable ? ?
The end connector is master:

MBoard===================================slave===========master.

IDE 0 or IDE 1 ? ?
What bootable CD/DVD ? ?There is NOTHING Else on the IDE cable.
I have tried another cable.
I not sure if it's 0 or 1. There is only 1 IDE input on the Mobo so iam guessing it's 0.
Vista 32bit. Go to the advanced section in the BIOS and there should be an auto-detect for IDE ) drives that are connected...
If this doesn't pick up the drive it MAY be defective.
To test this swap the drive into another machine...Thanks a TON! I will try that.

Compare and purchase AMD Desktop Processors...(Click)

Quote from: Raptor on December 19, 2008, 05:52:08 AM

Compare and purchase AMD Desktop Processors...(Click)

Spent some time looking at that site, but spent more time looking up and understanding all the numbers and abbreviations etc. Whats a OPN for example, why is it important etc etc. It hard to take in all at once when your just trying to find specific information.

To calum, i'm not, interested in overclocking at the moment. I just want to take this computer as far as it will go.

Quote from: reddevilggg on December 19, 2008, 06:01:11 AM

Quote from: Raptor on December 19, 2008, 05:52:08 AM

Compare and purchase AMD Desktop Processors...(Click)

Spent some time looking at that site, but spent more time looking up and understanding all the numbers and abbreviations etc. Whats a OPN for example, why is it important etc etc. It hard to take in all at once when your just trying to find specific information.

To calum, i'm not, interested in overclocking at the moment. I just want to take this computer as far as it will go.

AMD Processor Ordering Part Number (OPN) Breakdown

If you're not overclocking, then an Athlon FX is largely pointless. The FX CPUs were the fastest when introduced, but faster models were released later on.

and used the same cooler, would it over heat?

If i have a small monitor and play a game on high graphics then get a Big monitor and put it on the same settings will it run the same?It would probably run better depending on your graphics card and what kind of monitor u get.
What type of graphics do u have and whats ur current monitor and what u will get for a new one?Your monitor does not affect performance. Your choice of resolution will. I am getting an new monitor for christmas that is 1680 x 1050 resolution and i have a 9800gt grapic card with 1gb memory. right now my resolution is 1024 x 768 That will have a huge impact on performance. That and some games might not even support wide-screen properly.

You can always experiment with non-wide screen resolutions to see how they look, though. Best read some reviews before making a purchase or you might end up with a monitor that might not look too good in non-native resolutions.

I run all my games on high at 1440x900 resolution (had to turn the shadows to medium on Crysis due to lack of VRAM) just fine.
With the extra VRAM you might be OK, with games like Crysis, far Cry 2, anything else really intensive, you may need to turn some details down or adjust the resolution as Raptor says.
With that massive jump in resolution you'll probably see a huge DROP in frame rates, but as I say, this shouldn't ruin your GAMING experience.
Having said that, we have no idea about the rest of your system, and your CPU and RAM will have a large impact here.I agree with the second last post.i have windows Xp
4 gigs of ram
pentium(R) D CPU 3.00ghz 2.99 ghz Quote from: Imanuel4u on December 18, 2008, 07:09:03 AM

I agree with the second last post.

Quote from: Imanuel4u on December 18, 2008, 07:09:03 AM

I agree with the second last post.

Excellent !

Hi, I wonder if any body can shed some light on a problem I have just encountered. I have just upgraded my monitor to one which has both dvi and vga inputs and also purchased a graphics card to run the dvi. The only problem I have is that when I install the graphics card into the mobo and power the computer on. It GIVES me a display but the comp only gets as far as the SATA drives and then freezes.
If I take the new card out, it automatically reverts back to the original ONBOARD graphics and is fine.
I have looked at the bios SETTINGS and it is SET to check the pcie port first and I cannot see any settings for disabling the on board graphics.
I am running Vista and the mobo is a foxconn m7-vmx
any suggestions WOULD be greatly appreciated.

Hi guys,

So I have speedfan open right,
and I look to the bottom of the window and it has the voltages...
Needless to say I had a double take here.

The 3.3V was hovering around 3.2V and the 12V was 11.37 (and as im typing this it reads 11.25V :O ) 5V was 5.00-5.03 and Vcore is safe in the 1.6-1.65V range

Are these voltages anywhere near safe? the only thing I can think of is one or two fans in parrellel but even then they should still share the same Voltage and split Current...

Is this what I get for having 4HDDs 1 DVD burner, Radeon 9700 Pro, 3 12cm fans and CPU+fan on a 500W PSU?

[attachment deleted by admin]Some deviation can take place. How high or low do the voltages drop when you put considerable stress on your hardware? Ok I opened my case and re-constructed the Rails so there are 2HDDs on a 2 molex Rail each, and reserved the 2 rails with 2 molex plus the FDD connector for the DVD drive (1 rail) and the other for fans + gfx card.

The Voltages are closer to their proper values now, some within .02-.05 which I'm happy with
The 12V rails still only report 11.5V at the highest

Quote from: Raptor on December 18, 2008, 03:59:47 PM

How high or low do the voltages drop when you put considerable stress on your hardware?

Well I was just CLEARING up some space from my computer and noticed EVERYTIME I delete something or do something my HDD memory goes down. Is it the computer or am I doing something? I'm also using a Windows Vista. Thanks for your HELP!Err so you are saying when you delete things...your used space decreases?

That's normal...Good luck with this one....Thanks Patio.

Um, you have cleared the recycle bin after "deleting" files? they don't GO anywhere until you empty the recycle bin.

Quote

Personal experience

I don't stay up-to-date with Vista

the RAM was a major issue of using all RAM at all times

After few applications users are required to restart their machine before they can open other software.

Sigh....

Machines that are assembled by their manufacturer and should meet the standards for working with Vista and yet they don't.

Quote

Machines that are assembled by their manufacturer and should meet the standards for working with Vista and yet they don't.

Would you buy Ferrari with 1.5 l engine?
Same goes for computers.
You need to know what you're buying.

Quote

Machines that are assembled by their manufacturer and should meet the standards for working with Vista and yet they don't.

Would you buy Ferrari with 1.5 l engine?
Same goes for computers.
You need to know what you're buying.

Take an XP PC from 2002, and slap Windows 95 on it - that's what you're saying is best with Vista.
See my point?

Those 99% of people have no idea what they're buying as far as it looks nice and they expect the machine to function properly.

This new windows 3.1 I don't like it, it doesn't even have real mode! I heard rumours their working on a new windows, called Chicago, I think I'll wait until they release that.

I don't like windows 95, it's slow and uses up all of my 8MB of RAM. I think I'll stick with Windows 3.1 until Microsoft fixes it! can't wait for Memphis to come out!

Oh, man, I bought a new PC with windows 98 on it, ech, first thing I did was downgrade to windows 95. It's slow and bulky and even the explorer windows consume valuable ram. But I heard they have a new version in the works, I think they called it Whistler....

Last night I reformatted my computer and when I backed up all my files and applications I put them on my 16 GB Flash Voyager USB DRIVE. After installing windows I put the USB in and for some reason it corrupted it. Everytime I put the USB in and i try opening it from my computer I either get one of two errors. First one being "Please Insert Disk into drive "F". The second one seems to be the only error POPPING up now, it says.... "The Drive F is not formatted Do you want for Format now?" I don't want to format it because of all my files on there, but even if i do click format, it says "Unable to Format drive F" Is there anyway I can access this information inside the USB? Please Help!!

Thank you!!When you put it in the computer, right click the Flash Drive and go to Properties.
What is it's filesystem format? (Is it RAW or FAT or FAT32?)

When unplugging it, do you ever use Safely Remove Hardware or do you just pull it out?The file says RAW, but i dont think it used to say that before, and I usually do just pull it out... and I had put another USB shortly after that one, and it ALSO was corrupted, So I used a program called HP Formater, which formats the drive...I can do that with my 16 gb one, but I dont want to lose my data! Never just pull out your flash drive, otherwise this happens.
Spend the extra 2 seconds removing it safely via the Windows tool that sits in the system tray when you plug something in.

Anyways, try checking the drive.
Go to Tools --> Check Now and make sure there are ticks in the two check-boxes.I tried error checking but the box exits on its own when i click start. It works fine for the C drive...RAW = data gone...sorry.
You could try a freeware called Recuva .
Good Luck.There seems to be a website dedicated to "Recuva"; It is: www.recuva.com.

Suggest you look to the "Support Forum" link on their website for any assistance.

If successful in your recovery efforts, please let us know which "tool" you used.
We should have a sub-Forum TITLED RAW....

Imagine the traffic that would generate.What filesystem was this before? you didn't happen to format a Vista install and install XP, and then try to use a ExFat formatted drive...

OK to those of you who were saying it was the CPU heat sink combo, you win....
I was just about to start shopping for a new MB and I decided to take out the heat sink and clean it and the CPU again and put more paste and try it again and it worked.. I think i might have not had the heat sink securely attached to the MB.. Now there is a new problem, It will load past the bios PAGE but it comes up with a message that says "NTLDR is missing press Ctrl+Alt+Del to RESTART". I am just about to rip everything apart to find my XP disk and see if I cant repair it. I'll drop a line later to let you all know how it went...If you have a floppy drive (longshot, I know), follow these instructions:

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/305595/

Once you're back in the OS, you can mess with the NTLDR, ntdetect.com, and/or boot.ini files on your hard drive.Quote from: Paul51480 on December 18, 2008, 02:47:44 PM

OK to those of you who were saying it was the CPU heat sink combo, you win....
I was just about to start shopping for a new MB and I decided to take out the heat sink and clean it and the CPU again and put more paste and try it again and it worked.. I think i might have not had the heat sink securely attached to the MB.. Now there is a new problem, It will load past the bios page but it comes up with a message that says "NTLDR is missing press Ctrl+Alt+Del to restart". I am just about to rip everything apart to find my XP disk and see if I cant repair it. I'll drop a line later to let you all know how it went...

No need to sound so depressed

Just run a Repair install from your XP disk...(assuming you have one)

hi everyone,

you all knows that when you press the power button of CPU. there is a characteristic beep sound heard.

after that the monitor start showing texts etc.

In my computer, when I push the power button, EVERYTHING is ok, monitor show bios and then it boot to windows.

only missing is the starting beep sound. My all friends have computer and their computer have a beep sound.

what is wrong with my computer? everything else is ok. I can work on it.

configuration - motherboard INTEL D945GCNL

RAM = 1.5 gb.

hard disks - two, one ATA and one SATA

processor: Pentium D 3 ghz dual core.

thanks in advanceHook up the onboard speaker...
Have you read your MBoard manual ? ?Quote from: patio on December 18, 2008, 07:26:34 PM

Hook up the onboard speaker...
Have you read your MBoard manual ? ?

Just something from my experience. I had a SIMILAR ISSUE once. It turned out that I had a exposed fan 3 pin connector hitting the case and it would spark like heck and the power supply would shut off. I just reset the breaker on the power supply and it WORKED fine. I NEVER had any funky smell THOUGH. Good luck.

i wanna check too see if my psu is the problum and i have one of those multimeter things to test it how would i do this??http://www.driverheaven.net/guides/testingPSU/i cant run the prime95 software becuase my computer cant turn on at all should i still do it?Quote from: computeruler on July 23, 2008, 12:15:15 PM

i cant run the prime95 software becuase my computer cant turn on at all should i still do it?

it wont turn on though nothing happenes i cant start it should i just plug in the psu or what?

i put the black one in a black wire the red one in the oragne yellow and red ones (not all at once) then i pressed the on button i got no voltage and the computer still didnt do anything

Assuming that you had your multimeter set to the right scale, that the psu is connected to a known, good outlet, that the switch on the psu (if present) is 'on', that the case power switch is good ->bad psu. I would replace with another unit of equal or greater wattage to confirm.

Good luck.

well im just going to do a complete pc upgrade anyways new mobo video card possible case cpu psu i think the psu is still under warrenty too so i can replace it for a new one

I had a Dell with Windows XP installed, and I added a HD from a previous Dell so I could easily transfer files. (It had Windows XP too) After the second HD had been in the computer for about 6 months, I tried to take it out, but the computer won't boot without it!

I tried fixing the first HD by changing it to all of the master and cable SELECT options, but it still won't work! I am positive the computer boots off the first drive even with the second drive present, so why won't it work without it?

Additional info:

In the bios the first HD is set as primary master, and the second is primary slave. I tried turning off primary slave, no go.

What happens without the second drive, it shows system details after the initial dell loading screen (before windows loads), and it hangs there. After a minute, the screen goes black, but not like power-saving mode black. It's an LCD, so I can tell the monitor is displaying black INSTEAD of being off.

Thanks in advance!
-AO1Sounds like you have 2 drives that became tangled with data strings ( paths ).... One is dependent on the other due to software and possibly OS features that have registry pointers and maybe even system file pointers.

Looks like you will need to rebuild to straighten this out if you cant get it to SafeMode to fix dependencies..

Sorry about the bad news!

I've seen people have this issue when they run out of HD, they add a 2ND drive and start installing to the new 2nd drive, then when the 2nd drive has an issue it breaks everything due to both drives dependent on each other. It raises your risk for problems given that you now have 2 points of failure.For a single hard drive CONFIGURATION:
o Verify correct master/slave/single/cable select jumper settings (for that make and model hard drive). Suggest you configure jumpers for single mode, but depends upon hard drive.
o Verify single hard drive is at end of EIDE cable (not the middle).

Does the POST diagnostic screen displayed during startup correctly detect the single hard disk drive. Probably should have "PM" appended to it for "Primary Master". You might have to hit escape (or tab key?) during startup to remove the Dell screen that is masking the diagnostic post screen.Aw, I hope not Dave. I will still try all I can to fix it, but you may be right.

Quote

For a single hard drive configuration:
o Verify correct master/slave/single/cable select jumper settings (for that make and model hard drive). Suggest you configure jumpers for single mode, but depends upon hard drive.
o Verify single hard drive is at end of EIDE cable (not the middle).

Does the POST diagnostic screen displayed during startup correctly detect the single hard disk drive. Probably should have "PM" appended to it for "Primary Master". You might have to hit escape (or tab key?) during startup to remove the Dell screen that is masking the diagnostic post screen.

If I remove all jumpers, would it automatically be cable select?

Sounds like you have 2 drives that became tangled with data strings ( paths ).... One is dependent on the other due to software and possibly OS features that have registry pointers and maybe even system file pointers.

so i herd the nehalems will be around 280some for 2.66ghz im wondering what i should do go for a GOOD motherboard to replace mine and not get a nehalem or get a crappy cheap board and wait for the nehalems and use my current cpu because the nehalems will be SOCKET lga771 instead of 775 but they wont be out until late 08 and they will probably keep getting delayed too...I would get a new system now if you're looking for one.
If you delay for SOMETHING, there's always something else you'll want to wait for, and you'll never do it.not looking for a new system just a new motherboard/ram/possibly cpu/possible video cardSo 90% of a new system then.
My comment still stands, get it sooner rather than later and don't delay to wait for something, ESPECIALLY something huge like Nehalem.

Hello. First LET me start out by saying thank you for your time in reading this and hopefully helping me out.

I am going to buy a new computer and was wondering if the computer I am looking at is worth it and if its a good price for what I am getting.

I am buying the computer from London Drugs. I want to make sure I get the right computer for the right price. I basically want a good computer for playing games and watching movies on. Oh, and if there is anything you think I should upgrade in order to play good games and watch movies please ALSO let me know. Thanks a bunch!!!




Computer Price: $1099.98 CANADIAN

Name: Certified DATA Intel Quad Core Q6600 Desktop Computer

Specifications:

Model: B705V-Q66B

Microprocessor: Intel Core 2 quad Q6600 (2.4GHz)
Cache Memory: 8MB L2 Cache

Memory: 3CB PC5300 DDRLL SDRAM (4GB Max) total memory slots, Two DDR2 slots (occupied)

Hard Drive: 1TB SATA (2x500 GB)

Multimedia Drive: 20x DVD +- RW Drive Dual Layer, 16x DVD - ROM, Flash Memory Card Reader

Video Graphics: ATI Radeon HD 3650 512MB

Network Card: 10/100Mbs Base-T LAN

Sound: 6-Channel Audio

Expansion Slots: 2 PCI (two available) , 1 PCI Express x16 , 1 PCI Express x1 (Available)

Expansion Bays: Four external 5.25" bays (two available) , Four internal 3.5" (two available) , Two external 3.5" bays (one available)

I/0 Connectors: 6 - Hi Speed USB 2.0 (two front, four rear) , One Serial , Two PS/2
Oh yea, and Operating System is Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium.

what kind of games do you like to play, do you intend to use online mulitplayer?Also, what's your budget?
For a pre built PC that doesn't look bad, although if you're a gamer I'd advise a better graphics card.
I don't see a monitor, KB or mouse, do you have those already?Keyboard and Mouse included. I have a monitor.

Yes, I intend to play online games such as halo, age of empires and newer games, maybe WOWFor games like those that graphics card is adequate.
It looks to me like a pretty decent PC for the price.Great... awesome. Thank-you for all your helpi would upgrade to a 10/100/1000 network card, very good thing for games like halo and WOW. and that graphics card will more than likely need to be upgraded soon if your big into gaming and go for games like mass effect and other big gameswhat graphics card would you recommend? I was just reading up on the ATI Radeon HD 3650 512MB Graphics card and completely agree that i want to upgrade it.


Quote from: lilnate1191 on July 17, 2008, 01:21:07 AM

i would upgrade to a 10/100/1000 network card, very good thing for games like halo and WOW

I really want a laptop, and at best buy the COUPONS were gone, so is there a website where I can buy inexpensive laptops for Christmas?

Thanks in Advance What sort of prices are you looking at?
And whereabouts in the world are you?
Welcome to the forums.Quote

What sort of prices are you looking at?
And whereabouts in the world are you?

... and at best buy the coupons were gone, .

I keep getting this message. That my Recovery Drive is full and that my data may not be backed up.

I have deleted all except the most recent BACKUP point on the options, but I still get this. It pops up all the time and drives me nuts! It does just have ONE recovery point, because I TRIED deleting some programs (as it REQUESTED) and it messed up, so I used the one recovery point to restore my settings. So I know I get that. Is there any way to get rid of possible JUNK on this drive? It shouldn't be full.

Thanks.What information should I provide?

Hey guys.

I'm having some problems with my microphone on my headset (Sennheiser PC151)

Gonna explain this as best as I can so please bare with me.

The microphone doesn't seem to PICK up my voice (testing in Windows Sound Recorder) unless it's turned all the way up in Windows volume control, which means I can actually hear my voice coming through the speakers as I talk which I don't want. If I turn the sound down in Windows volume control, or mute the mic I can't hear my voice through the speakers but the microphone doesn't pick up my voice either.

Finally, I've tried using the microphone in sound test in options in Counter Strike Source but it's very strange. Whatever I say is picked up, although not very clearly and what I've said repeats over and over again in an infinite loop like it's crashed or something.

Does anyone have any idea what might be wrong here? I've tried the mic in both the front and back ports but it's the same. I've tried uninstalling and REINSTALLING my soundcard drivers (audio97, onboard) and also installing the latest drivers but it's not done any good.

HELP, please. Try this.

Go to the Volume Control (usually located next to the clock somewhere)
Click Options --> and make sure Advanced Controls is ticked.
Now look for a slider with the word Microphone above and click Advanced

Check Microphone Boost and press OK.

(based on Windows XP)you are LOOKING to mute your mic in "playback" not in "recording". muting it in playback will stop you from hearing your own voice, whereas muting it in recording will actually mute the mic.

CD-ROM audio cable CONNECTS to the which part?

1.speaker
2.sound card
3.hard driv
4.BIOS

Asked in my tech SUPPORT exe INTERVIEW:

I think BIOS am I?Once again:
We don't help with JOB interviews.
Perhaps if you don't know the answer you should consider a different job, or at least trying to search it on the internet first.
Topic locked.

I have posted in another forum on a different site, but haven't got to much of a responce.

Ok so my gf decided to go ahead, and install my new case fans while I was at work today without asking me. She trys to start it up, and right after it was testing the drives it couldn't read the keyboard which is a usb keyboard, everynow, and then when it gets shut off hard like if the power goes out it would have that error. I would turn off the power supply UNPLUG the keyboard and plug it back in and it would then work. I told her to do this she did. But its not really starting up at all now. Hit the power button, and the only screen that comes up is the Asus motherboard screen, and it just stays there. You think she might have shocked something, and ruined a peice of hardware? Any help on helping me trouble shoot this problem I would be much thankful for.


Hello! Welcome to CH!
Please read thisfirst.
Please post back! Oops lol I forgot I always had it as a tag on other Forums.
Its xp sp2.
CPU=amd 3000+ 400fsb barton
VIDEO=X800 pro
SOUND=SB Audigy2 zs plat
MEMORY=1024 Corsair xms pc3200
HD=120gig seagate 7200rpm

Cliffs

-GF INSTALLS new case fans.
-At first wouldn't detect the usb keyboard at the Cmos, which is a error I have received before.
-Told her to unplug it, and plug it back in.
-After it just starts up all fans working, but just freezes on the Asus screen, does not go any further to the Cmos or to where I can even enter the Bios.

Troubleshooting already done
-Reset jumpers on the motherboard
-Tested all connections
-Unplugged the new case fans.

Troubleshooting that I haven't tried
-Removing ONE stick of ram at a time.
-Getting ahold a new PSU, to try it out.

I'm afraid that if its the CPU or Mobo that Im going to have to be able to find a replacement, because its so old. Then I would be looking replacing ALOT of hardware.My GFs dad seems to think it might be the CMOS battery gone bad, but I have a friend that says if the battery WENT out it would still start up it just wouldn't be able to save the CMOS settings. I haven't been home to try out the ram either, could it STOP it starting up any further then where it stops at?Yeah, it could stop the starting up process. Have you heard beep codes whenever you turn on your computer?

Computer sometimes turn on but rarely. When it doesnt turn on nothing happens. Fans dont spin and no noise etc. I think it is probably a Power supply problem because I hear a buzzing noise from it when my computer cant turn on. When there is no buzzing noise my computer can turn on. Also I have test the power supply on ANOTHER computer and it works prefectly but that computer is older so it needs LESS power to run.Its not motherboard problem i dont think because it can turn on sometimes and the motherboard runs fine when it does turn on.Check all connections FIRST if GOOD i would start with swapping out power supply first.Do you know how to CLEAN and reseat the CPU and heatsink ?I would say your fans are dirty.

Hi Everyone,

My computer was working fine before I went on vacation. when I came back and started it up. It starts okay but right before the boot section, it just stops...the little DOS pointer on the top LEFT side of the screen flashes but that's it. i've TRIED putting a floppy to boot, as well as my original recovery CD but nothing happens. Has anyone had this problem before? Any suggestions and help would be greatly appreciated as I'm not very hardware savy....

CronoCan you run in safe mode:
1. Restart your computer.
2. When the machine first starts again it will generally list some equipment that is installed in your machine, amount of memory, hard drives installed etc. At this point you should gently tap the F8 key REPEATEDLY until you are presented with a menu.
3. When you have the menu on the screen. Select the option for Safe Mode using the arrow keys.
4. Then press enter on your keyboard to boot into Safe Mode.

Can you list your machine specs.The problem is that the computer doesn't even get to do the OS Boot, it stops before that. So pressing F8 doesn't do anything.

I have an Alienware
Pentium 4 Dual 3.33 GHZ
3 GB RAM.
256 RAM NVIDIA CARD
Windows XP SP2
Not to SURE so don't act upon my advice yet, but i would save your hard DRIVE has given up. Oh my...
Odd though because when the computer is first loading, it sees the hard drive there, and it says it's healthy...Reconnect all your cables to the drives and motherboard making sure they are seated properly, you may aswell reseat the ram and graphics card while you are in there. Let use know how you go on!!

When I boot up my computer I get the message 'r430 x800 xl bios'. The keyboard and mouse don't start up, nothing goes on, and no other message. I though that it might be a video card problem, yet I'm not sure. Any solutions...?

Ram 1G
Windows Vista
ATI X800 Video Card

Sounds like the system is not communicating with the video card.

Did this just start? Have you made any system changes - MEMORY, update drivers, install programs, downloads?

Remove and re-seat the card. Remove and re-seat the RAM memory.

Please post back and LET us know how you're making out.

EDIT: Is ANYTHING overclocked? What MOTHERBOARD or computer make and model? PSU - brand, model, size.

The subject says it all. I have a friend with an old Dell 3000. It has a CD Rom and a Floppy Drive, and two hard drives. Both IDE cables are USED, and there are no more IDE connections on the motherboard. It appears to me that my only salvation is to add a USB2/Firewire PCI board (there is an open slot), and use a USB2 to IDE adapter to run to an externally mounted internal drive - or just use a USB2 or Firewire External HD. The friend wants to avoid using external drives due to space considerations. I've never heard of such a thing as an IDE cable splitter, and I don't believe there is such a thing. Any one have any suggestions?If you have a spare PCI slot you can add a PCI IDE controller to the computer.
They're relatively inexpensive and easy to install.
Hope this helps.Calum:

Thanks so much for pointing out the most obvious (to everyone except me) solution to this problem. Apparently, when I see a problem with one approach (no more IDE connections on the motherboard), I have a mental block against considering a related approach.Quote from: veritasffg

It has a CD Rom and a Floppy Drive, and two hard drives. Both IDE cables are used, and there are no more IDE connections on the motherboard.

Well you wouldn't really want to put a HDD on the same cable as an optical drive anyways...

Calum:

Thanks so much for pointing out the most obvious (to everyone except me) solution to this problem. Apparently, when I see a problem with one approach (no more IDE connections on the motherboard), I have a mental block against considering a related approach.

Quote from: patio on July 16, 2008, 08:17:11 PM

Well you wouldn't really want to put a HDD on the same cable as an optical drive anyways...

Care to give some reason(s) for this statement Patio

In some cases depending on the equipment it may slow down the transfer speeds on the HDD to the highest optical drive speed.

A CD rom and a hard drive can co-exist on one ide although there may be some degradation of the hdd data transfer speed, hardly noticable.

Two devices on one cable - speed impact
There are many debates about how much a slow device can impact the performance of a faster device on the same cable. There is an effect, but the debate is confused by the blurring of two quite different causes, called here "Slowest Speed" and "One Operation at a Time".

"Slowest speed"
It is a common misconception that, if two devices of different speed capabilities are on the same cable, both devices' data transfers will be constrained to the speed of the slower device.

For all modern ATA host adapters this is not true, as modern ATA host adapters support independent device timing. This allows each device on the cable to transfer data at its own best speed. Even with older adapters without independent timing, this effect only impacts the data transfer phase of a read or write operation. This is usually the shortest part of a complete read or write operation.

"One operation at a time"
This is caused by the omission of both overlapped and queued feature sets from most parallel ATA products. Only one device on a cable can perform a read or write operation at one time, therefore a fast device on the same cable as a slow device under heavy use will find it has to wait for the slow device to complete its task first.

However, most modern devices will report write operations as complete once the data is stored in its onboard cache memory, before the data is written to the (slow) magnetic storage. This allows commands to be sent to the other device on the cable, reducing the impact of the "one operation at a time" limit.

The impact of this on a system's performance depends on the application. For example, when copying data from an optical drive to a hard drive (such as during software installation), this effect probably doesn't matter: Such jobs are necessarily limited by the speed of the optical drive no matter where it is. But if the hard drive in question is also expected to provide good throughput for other tasks at the same time, it probably should not be on the same cable as the optical drive.

Hi!

I think I'll buy a new laptop soon and need some advice. The 2 models that got my attention are the HP DV6894CA and DV6974CA.

The first computer COMES equiped with a T5550, 1.8 GHz, with 3 Gigs of RAM and a GeForce 8400 GS, with a 320 Gigs hard drive. That computer costs 900$.

The second one comes with a T5850, 2.1 GHz, with 4 Gigs of RAM and the same GeForce 8400 as before and a 320 Gigs hard drive. That notebook costs 1000$.


The seller told me that the first laptop comes with a 32 bits Vista OS, and the second with a 64 bits edition to completely use the RAM. I'm interested in buying the second computer which comes with a greater CPU and more RAM, but learned that old 32 bits applications may not work anymore with the 64 bits Vista edition... Is there lots of applications affected with that issue? Should I stick with a less powerful computer running with a 32 bits OS, or would you recommand me the more beefy system? Thanks! Can you get the T5850 in the first (32 bit) computer? That'd be my choice!Personally I'd save the cash and get the cheaper one, the extra 300MHz clock speed will not be noticeable, and nor will the extra RAM.
A 64 bit OS will see more RAM than a 32 bit OS, and it will also use more. I would say there would be little advantage to a 64 bit OS on that setup, especially if you don't run any 64 bit applications.
However, there are very few compatibility issues with 32 bit applications running on a 64 bit OS, less than you'd think.
Oh, and if you're a gamer I'd get a better graphics card (or a DESKTOP) as that card's acceptable for running Vista, but not for gaming.
Hope this helps.Quote from: drmsucks on July 16, 2008, 09:53:38 PM

Can you get the T5850 in the first (32 bit) computer? That'd be my choice!

Oh, and if you're a gamer I'd get a better graphics card (or a desktop) as that card's acceptable for running Vista, but not for gaming.
Hope this helps.

Hi,
For several months now my GRAPHIC and SOUND (both together and separately) have been getting more and more jittery. The problem is unusal because it happens intermittently. Approximately every 2 minutes the sound and / or graphics will become jittery for around 30 seconds. When I go and look at the Processes tab in Windows task manager while this is happening the CPU usage percentage is high (75 - 90 %) for whatever graphics or sound program is in use (firefox (playing youtube vids), and itunes are particularly problematic), this will then drop back down to zero after 30 seconds.

I have:

Nvidia GeForce 6150SE nForce 430 (I THINK intergrated) graphics card

An AMD Athalon 64 x2 Dual Core Processor 6000+

Windows XP Professional Version 2002 Service PAck 2

3.01 Ghz, 1.87 GB of Ram

Hope someone can help.

:-)Also, one other thing, I have installed the most recent driver for the Graphics card and it is still problematic. Reinstall drivers for both sound and graphics. Also try disabling the sound, just to see it the graphics still run jerky> Start>CONTROL Panel>System>Hardware>Device Manager>sound+>Right click and disable.

Hi I have a question. I have a old compaq 5410US computer. It has an intel celeron 1.3 ghz processor. I want to put a new processor in it. Am I able to a Pentium 3 or core duo in it or does my computer have to be made a certain way for that. Can you please tell me what kind of processor I can upgrade it to. The requirements of the program I want needs a P III 1 GHz, Athlon XP 1.4 GHz. I have no idea what that means. Can someone please tell me if I can upgrade to those requirements. THANK YOU From what I can find out your board will support Pentium III/Celeron CPUs with a FSB of 100MHz.
The fastest CPU you can get is a Celeron 1400MHz, so it's not worth upgrading.
You meet the system requirements already, but out of interest what is this program?

Welcome to the forums.You cannot put any kind of core duo processor in that computer. The best CPU can you plug into this mobo is P3-S 1.4 GHz. But you'd have a job to find one nowadays. Also it would not be much faster than Celery 1.3 GHz. This machine is not worth upgrading.

The program requirement you describe is not that much DIFFERENT from what you already have.
Dias - the P3-S has a 133MHz FSB if I'm not mistaken, from what I can find out the motherboard only supports a 100MHz FSB.
And you're right, they're very hard to find nowadays, I was looking for one a few months ago.Yes, the P3-S would have to run off the 100 MHz fsb & this would negate any (very) small PERFORMANCE increase I would think.
You could upgrade to 512 mb ram. Here

You could also use an agp graphics card. 64MB is about all you

would need.Here

This will make EVERYTHING run about 25% faster,or better in some cases.

Quote from: Dias de verano on July 18, 2008, 03:46:39 AM

Yes, the P3-S would have to run off the 100 MHz fsb & this would negate any (very) small performance increase I would think.