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Hey CH

I have a nice SSD, its a Kingston 300V 240Gb SSD that i had in my Old Macbook. I recently upgraded to a beautiful Macbook Pro that has a SSD in it so i figured ill take this one and pop it into my Gaming Tower. This SSD is less then a month old because kingston replaced the one that died so it has about 9 days running time. I Downloaded the kingston UTILITY because i wish to secure erase the SSD to get all the OSX crap off there. I have the disk connected to my machine as a secondary disk, i select operations in the kingston toolbox clock secure erase and try both options "secure erase" or "enhanced secure erase" and both of them start and hit 1% and say "errors encountered during Secure erase operation" output "command is aborted by the drive" I completely even killed off the partitions in the drive and it still has this error. what Gives?Not sure...but they do have live Chat Tech Support at their site...Ive actually decided to give them a call. They seem to have great customer service. The drive only has about 9 days running time on it and seems to pass all first aid tests fine. So im wondering whats going on. Its connected to SATA number 2 as i wish to secure erase it, then CONNECT it to SATA 1 so it can become my boot drive. It may be doing that since you wiped the partition...you could always use a 3rd party TOOL...Easus Partition Manager is good...and Free.After speaking with Kingstons technical department they wanted the drive to have no partition, PLUGGED into SATA not USB and they confirmed it was fine and that the issue was my Sata driver was controlled by AMD not microsoft and that SOMETIMES has an issue with their software. They advised me that i should download and try HDDerase. I shall be doing that later. Best of Luck...
Bring us good news...

My wife's Compaq desktop shutdown a couple nights ago and I have attempted but failed to make it operational again. It is of course an older machine, a 2007 model, but it still has files that exist only on it's hard drive that she would like retreived if at all possible.
In my attempts the computer does power on and allow the password to be entered, but then Windows would flash a message that it had detected a problem and shut down to prevent damage, then a blue screen with print appeared and went away before being able to read it.
I was able to pause a screen titled "Windows Error Recovery" that basically stated a recent hardware or software change might be the cause and gave me the opportunity to click Launch Statrtup Repair, which I did and it flashed :
Collecting Crash Data...
Initializing disk for crash dump...
Beginning dump of physical memory.
Dumping physical memory to disc (here it rapidly displayed a couple numbers)
Then it returned to the blue screen again which I was finally able to pause. It basically repeated the message that Windows had shutdown to protect the computer from damage and gave steps to make sure any new software or hardware was installed correctly. It also stated that if the problem continues to remove any new software or hardware, disable BIOS memory options such as caching or shadowing, and how to use Safe Mode to do so. However, there has been no new software or hardware added to disable or remove.

I did think that I could start up in Safe Mode and go to System in the Control Panel to choose a restore point, but the computer never allowed me to get that far. Even when starting in Safe Mode the computer cycles through the "Windows Error Recovery" screen and then to the blue screen again. (At the bottom of the blue screen it has a caption, "technical Information" and displays numbers like this:
***Stop: 0x0000000A  (0x000000F0, 0x00000008, 0x00000001, 0x8DC00003)
However, with each new cycle to the blue screen the Technical Information numbers are different.

Can anyone give me advice on being able to repair and restart the computer please?
Thanks in advance.Do you have the original installation media to perform a repair installation or system recovery with option to protect personal data from deletion?

A repair disc or recovery disc is the direction I would go. If you dont have this then you will need to get one.Thanks for the advice Dave.
 I do have a recovery disc that we made when we first started the computer fresh out of the box. I had thought of using the recovery disc, but I have never used one before and I was afraid that it might ditch the files. You mentioned an option to protect personal data, how would I go about discovering if that option is available to me?
 As I said, I have never used a recovery disc before, but I assume playing the disc may give that information?
Yes running that disc will show you. It wont just boot off the disc and trash your data. You should always be given a menu setup that gives you choices, and one of the choices is always to abort or quit the operation. Generally most have 3 options:

( Full Factory Restoration ) = Wipes out all data and makes the computer back to fresh out of box state when you bought it new.

( Restoration Preserving Personal Data ) = Rebuilds Windows OS and your personal data that is at locations where personal data should reside is left alone... some will keep your installed programs intact as a repair while others will completely replace Windows with a clean install of it.

(Quit ) = Abort out of the restoration process


Some come with an option for:

( Repair Windows ) = Perform only a repair to Windows, do not wipe out installed programs or personal data.Thanks for the fast response Dave!
I will try the recovery disc later and  post an update afterward. This will make my wife very happy if it works. I look forward to clicking the topic solved box.Help!

Well, I researched HP customer support and decided before doing a system recovery, I would follow their 7 step troubleshooting program for unlocking the computer titled "HP and Compaq Desktop PCs - Windows Vista Locks Up, Freezes, or a Blue Screen Error Opens".
In a nutshell, the steps involved attempts to open Task Manager first with F4 key, then with CTRL+SHIFT+ESC keys to find a faulty software program, use system restore both with and without Safe Mode through the F8 key, updating the BIOS through downloads from HP, and the final step if all fails, the HP system recovery.
The steps to open Task Manager failed to work, continually pressing F8 did pull up the Safe Mode selection, but the computer would not RESPOND to the Enter command; updating the BIOS or drivers wouldn't work because the computer fails to start. Surely the two recovery discs will work then, right?
The HP directions for system recovery using recovery discs are simple enough as follows:

Use the following steps to recover the computer from a set of recovery discs (either CDs or DVDs):
1. Turn on the computer, if it is not already on, and insert the first recovery disc labeled #1.
2. After the first disc is in the drive and the drive is closed, turn off the computer by pressing and holding the power button.
3. With the computer off, disconnect all connected devices and cables such as the Personal Media Drive, USB drives, printer, and fax. Remove media from drives, and remove any recently added internal hardware. Do not disconnect the monitor, keyboard, mouse, and power cord.
4. Turn on the computer. The computer opens the Recovery Manager program.
5. By default the Recovery Manager will be set to run a System Recovery from the inserted recovery disc. Click Next.
6. On the screen that prompts for Microsoft System Restore select No, and then click Next.
7. The Recovery Manager gives you the option of backing up your data files. To do so, read Backing up your files.
If you do not want to backup your files, select No, and then click Next.
8. Read and respond to the screens as they appear. If a screen prompts for a disc, insert the next disc. In some cases, you may have to repeatedly insert the same disc several times before the screen allows you to continue.
9. After the System Recovery is complete, the computer restarts and continues into Windows setup. Complete the setup screens and wait until the computer finishes the setup. Then, turn off the computer, reconnect all peripheral devices, and turn on the computer.
10. Before using the computer, update and protect your computer. Reinstall any virus and security software that was installed before the System Recovery.
11. Reinstall any software applications that were after purchasing the computer, and any files that were backed up.

However, when my computer powered on with recovery disc 1 the screen showed "Windows gathering files" for a minute and then the screen turned green. I left it on for two hours and nothing changed so I killed the power and tried it again 30 minutes later with the disc still in. The computer "busy" light never flickered, the screen never revealed a message or sign of activity, after an hour I shut it down again.

Does anyone know a way to get the computer to respond to the recovery process that I have not tried? While I am a basically a greenhorn, I am still optimistic and willing to try most any option. Any response is welcome.  First, I forgot to include my computer info: The computer is a HP Compaq Presario desktop model SR5025WM-B with 1024 MB PC2-4200 SDRAM and 250 GB 7200 RPM Serial ATA hard drive. There are two system recovery discs that were made from the computer.
Here's my latest update.
I powered on the computer with the System Recovery disc 1 still in the tray early this morning and after several minutes had passed a black screen with this message appeared:
 The file is possibly corrupt. The file header CHECKSUM does not match the computed checksum.

I have no idea what the message means. The recovery discs were made when the computer was new, and should have no reason to be corrupted if that is what the message implies. Anyway, 15 minutes later another message replaced the first one, as follows:
 DBOOT: Cannot boot from CD-Code 1e header checksum does not match the computed checksum.

Does this mean my Recovery discs are no good? Again I have no clue what it means, is there some other way to make an unresponsive computer run a system recovery?

Quote

try changing the power supply if still not working maybe the ram or graphic card..

Hi;

About 3 years ago I built a budget Gaming Rig using the following components:

ASRock FM2A75M-DGS Motherboard
AMD A6 5400K

2 x 4G Crucial Ballistix DDR3 PC3 Memory

I opted for this build as the AMD A CPU range include a GPU which for the A^ is I think a Radeon HD 7450D. Last year I bought Alien Isolation and never played it because the graphics were quite laggy.

Anyway time has moved on and I was wondering whether I could realistically upgrade this rig by adding a decent 'ish' video card for under £100.

I have been out of PC building since this build and Gfx cards have moved on somewhat as such I have no idea how the various GEFORCE GT / GTX cards and Radeon cards stack up?   

Any advice would be great.  Quote

I have no idea how the various Geforce GT / GTX cards and Radeon cards stack up?

I wanted to know how I could hook up 2 to 3 different sets of speakers that would be in different rooms, that I could run from my computer but be able to decide what speakers I want to have on or off. My other question is when I hook up a set of stereo speakers from the computer to a stereo RECEIVER why is there only one channel. I don't seem to get 2 channels when the speakers are hooked up on left & right channels. I only get sound when I hook up both speakers one channel of the receiver.I believe the only way to accomplish your first goal is with a multi channel amp hooked up after the sound CARD...as to your 2md question it's not very clear so please provide more info and the POSSE' will be along shortly...

I'm trying to use a microphone with some voice programs(VENTRILLO and teamspak) and the problem i'm having is my MIC is playing everything, even system sounds that happen when i have the transmit key pressed. I'm using a headset with mic ATTACHED. I've triple checked that it's connected RIGHT, i have my sound manager set to headphones, but when i try to talk into the mic, if somone else talks, my mic plays both back and causes horrible feedback to everyone else but me. Never had this problem before, dont know if i accidently clicked something or if it's my headset screwing up. Thanks for the help in ADVANCE.

Hello,
A few months ago i planned a PC build and posted it on this forum for advice and got some really good feedback from you all
But i have done some more additions to it and would like another opinion, i didn't want to grave dig the old post since it's been a while...

Build:
http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/ZN4DGX

Case:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281858953512?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

(the beefy GPU will be running 4 screens, playing games at MAX resolution/settings and video editing stuff)

Thanks in advance WOW thats one powerful video card, but I am curious if it makes more sense to go with 2 lesser powerful video cards to get similar performance and have 2 displays per card since you can crossfire with this motherboard. Maybe someone else who is up on modern gaming builds can say whether it would make sense to get 2 powerful but lesser than that SINGLE video card to perform equally by distributed GPU processing among 2 cards each handling 2 displays each?

Are you looking to save any money and go with 2 video cards or are you happy with this 1 card at the heavy price tag?Yeah I went with one GPU because it just seems a bit easier in my mind, because I was led to believe that 1 GPU will not use much less power and is more stable with gaming, but i may be incorrect. Also as silly as this sounds the TITAN x is also for bragging rights ahaha. I know its a waste but hopefully it will be future PROOFING games and other application for as long as possible.

Thanks for reply. What do you think of the Power supply? the Titan x says it needs a minimum of 600W and I only have 750W will the pushing it near the edge degrade quality or performance over a period of time?
And do you think the motherboard is of good quality? I have pretty big concerns with this build because I don't want the PSU or MB to get damaged and ruin the expensive GPU.

Thanks All parts you have are good brand and quality parts. Motherboard and Power Supply are good brands and quality. 750 watts should be enough as for when they set the minimum power supply requirements they generally take into account of the fact that the CPU will use a certain AMOUNT of power too. To me this looks like a good match. Well if you going for bragging rights then I guess you will want that ultra powerful video card. Additionally a single card vs 2 cards set up for cross fire is slightly easier to configure. As far as protecting your investment, I would have a surge suppressor on this system minimum between the outlet and the computer. Even better would be to get a battery backup that can carry the heavy power demand of that system. A UPS rated for this type of system will be upwards of  $400 USD for a 1500VA battery backup. Battery backup will filter and maintain a constant voltage level to the system so that there are no low or high voltages fed into your power supply.Thanks that's just what I wanted to hear
I will certainly think about a UPS later on down the track when i can save up again lol, but for now a surge protector should do the job.

I very much appreciate your time

Hello
I need to get rid of my old AMD HD5450.
I am thining about this one http://hardware.nl/msi/v305-030r.html

But I reckon also that this may be reasonable to wait for AMD HBM 2.0 cards.
So, what do you think? Is it worth waiting?

PS: if you have other suggestions INSTEAD of the MSI R7-370, then suggest only AMD:-) The price above $250 would be too much.
PPS: if you know a different European retailer with smaller price tag, then post the link, that will be greatful.
PPPS: I am not the hardest video game player, but a lower power consumption and more powerful card from AMD with HBM 2 seems to be a better option.Good GPU however I would go with EVGA, Gigabyte, ASUS or another trusted brand other than MSI. I and others have had far to many troubles with MSI to trust spending money on their brand products.

What do you have for a power supply in the computer ( model power supply and wattage as it says on the power supply label )and what are your system specs that your adding a video card upgrade to?To be honest, I wouldn't buy Gigabyte, since my current RADEON is made by Gigabyte. It is not very good (it glitches a lot). Certainly, some parts may not work correctly, but my loyalty to Gigabyte is diminished.

My CPU is AMD FX-4300 3.8GHz
Mobo - ASRock 970 Rev.3
RAM - 4 gigs, Kingston HyperX Fury, 1866MHz.
PSU - Chieftec 600W - that's all I recall. So, I don't think I will be short on power.

For now, I have a choice from ASUS, Sapphire, Gigabyte and MSI.
Well, on some French forum I have read that Sapphire are not good either))) So, what, ASUS is the Chosen One?
I wasn't able to predict that buying a new card is difficult Glitches.... are you sure its caused by the video card? The HD5450 isnt the strongest performing GPU out there. I praised the GPU years ago for it being low cost and able to hold up to some games at the time, but the evolution of gaming phased out the HD5450 pretty quickly for games LIKE World of Warcraft, Rift, and Skyrim, and other games the HD5450 even on lowest settings probably wont run or if it did the frame RATE would be jumpy and low or not holding to a steady frame rate which can make one think its a glitchy video card.

You might find that you get a new video card and its still glitchy. I havent had any good luck with ASRock motherboards, and they have been known to cause glitches with performance.There are some issues with the video card. It doesn't work correctly on the first launch. For instance, in games it glitches a lot, and when video in Firefox play, it stutters. But after I reload the session, it works in a normal way, like it should do.

Well, I have never thought that this issue may be caused by the mobo. Will look into it. Thanks for the suggestion I feel I am an idiot So, I went to the UEFI, then changed some setting to get connected to the Internet, then updated the UEFI, and now there are no glitches. It took like five minutes only. So your motherboard needed a BIOS flash to correct for a bug or you had something misconfigured for timing etc?

This comes back to my statement on December 11th 2015 of:

Quote

I havent had any good luck with ASRock motherboards, and they have been known to cause glitches with performance.

I have a pretty TOUGH question.  I want to be able to mute a program so that I can't hear it through my headset but I want the AUDIO to go through my computer somehow so that a streaming program picks it up.  I was looking into Virtual Audio Cables but I dont think that is how im supposed to do this. Is this too complicated of a question for this forum?

Here is why I need to do this.  I have a capture device for my Xbox One.  I have it hooked up to my computer so I can record. I want to stream the live playback on twitch. However, I use earbuds that are connected to my monitor for audio from the xbox.  On my computer, the program has audio playing which is the same audio as the earbuds but it is delayed...so I can't just use my computer headset to listen.  So if I mute the device, the stream wont be able to hear it.  If I keep the audio on, I hear 2 sets of the same audio but one is delayed.  I play professional Call of Duty so audio is very important.

Thanks for taking the time to read this

Its a toughy.... I've moved your post from our FAQ section to a more appropriate location.In professional audio this would be called a two channel system. Not stores CHANNELS, but two separate kennels in the same device.  One is program and the other is audition. The pros can broadcast the program while recording another source.

A PC is normally not used that WAY. You would have to have a seperate sound card and its own software suite.  This has been documented elsewhere. Here is one:
http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2456084/seperate-sound-speakers-headsets.html
Also
http://www.overclock.net/t/1092253/1-pc-can-output-2-separate-audio-sources
You can Google for more links about two sound systems on one PC.
Does that help?  Can you not mute the broadcasting software via the Windows Mixer? It sounds like the "delayed" audio you hear is the playback through the broadcaster's stream preview.

I want to buy one or the other but don't know much about either one.
WHAT CAN THE $147 DOLLAR ANDROID DO THAT THE $79  can't do?


$79.99   

∙10.1" touchscreen
∙1.3GHz Quad-Core processor
∙32GB of storage memory
∙Google Android 5.0 (Lollipop) OS
∙Webcams, Wi-Fi and Bluetooth

$147.00   

∙10.1" touchscreen
∙1.40GHz Quad-Core processor
∙32GB of storage memory
∙Google Android 5.0 (Lollipop) OS
∙Webcams, WiFi and Bluetooth

Who makes them ? ?If it is the RCA model sold at Walmart, I say no. PERSONAL experience. I still have it, but will not recommend it.
But others make 10 inch Android with almost the same specs.What about things like SCREEN resolution, memory EXPANSION (can both expand storage via SD card?) and build quality.Thanks, I'll look into another brand besides rca. Will these tablets let you use as
good as a desktop ps?No. All tablets are slower that any Desktop.
In very general terms, computer productivity is related to power use.
It is not just the CPU clock, it is also the RAM speed and the graphics display.
To save battery power, tablets use only a fraction of the electrical poser of a desktop. A desktop can use 100 watts even when going slow. The tablet is at about 10 watts or even less. This is DOCUMENTED elsewhere. Or just read the specs.

With tablets I'd always make sure you get a reputable brand, while the cheap ones look okay on paper you'll find that they save money by being cheaply made, not having very good screens and having pretty poor battery life.  You will also likely get better software updates in the future with a well known tablet whereas a cheap generic one will probably be stuck with the OS version that it came with.

Quote from: jacobixxx8 on January 05, 2016, 09:11:03 PM

Will these tablets let you use as good as a desktop ps?

Who makes them ? ?

I have a office and i would like to have a big screen tv display my GPS system monitoring my vehicles and my security cameras.  The gps system is a webpage and the security camra is also web based.  I would like to display one gps for a minute then display the security cameras for a minute and keep switching.  Is that possible?Do you want a hardware or software answer?

A hardware answer would be a switch driven by a small 8 RPM motor.

Software would be a HTML page that would be a frame and it would refresh the child frame between two sources.

Or, it could be done in Adobe Flash.


I really dont care if its a software or hardware solution.  I really just need a reliable way to rotate the input into the TV.  Where would i find a switch with a motor and how reliable are they?Hi

Using Google CHROME browser there is a add on called Revolver Tabs.

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/revolver-tabs/dlknooajieciikpedpldejhhijacnbda?hl=en

This will SCROLL thru the current tabs you have open keeping the image on the screen for as many minutes as you select.
You could open a copy of chrome with the 2 webpages  on tabs and shift that to the tv screen with this addon loaded and it would scroll say every minute between the 2 screens. If you click on something on a screen, like to see details from the gps the scroll will stop until you finish what you are doing.

Thank you I think that solutions is GREAT.

Hi, Everyone.

Since my PC's broken down and my processor is dying, I'm going to have to replace my PC. However, I'll need to do it on a tight budget now, so I can't do some PC-building, since it'll take about $1200+ to build my own, and I'm only on a $700 budget (plus I haven't had any experience BEFOREHAND of building my own PC). So I'll GO ahead and get myself an HP machine, since I've heard that Dell bites big wind (or do they?).

Right now, two of their models fit my fancy well (they sound like good performance PC's that won't cost me an arm and a leg to buy): The Pavilion a1750 series, with a1750y having a Pentium D 820 processor, and the a1750e having an Athlon 64 X2 processor. Aside from that config, they're both essentially the same, but with the Pentium D-equipped PC costing $50 more. The both also come fully-equipped with Windows Vista Home Premium. Here's a link to the PC's if you need further info:

http://www.shopping.hp.com/webapp/shopping/series_can.do?landing=desktops&catLevel=2&storeName=computer_store&a1=Usage&v1=Entertainment%20and%20multimedia

I'll mainly be using this PC for :

Word Processing, Spreadsheet processing, Slide Show creation (MS Office XP)

Web-surfing (IE7 or Firefox 2)

Playing MUSIC (using WMP 10 or 11)

Playing movies (DivX and DVD's, but no video editing for me)

Photo editing using Adobe Photoshop 7.0

Playing Ragnarok Online (Recommended Requirements Windows XP OS, CPU with 700 Mhz or higher, 256 MB RAM, DirectX 3D Support, VGA card with 32 MB video Memory, DirectSound equivalent/3D Surround Sound Support)

Playing Command and Conquer Generals (System Requirements Windows XP OS, CPU with 800 Mhz or higher, 128 MB RAM, DirectX 8.1 video and sound Support, NVidia GeForce 2 or higher)

My questions are:

1. Is the Pentium D 820 technically much more superior than the 64 X2 3800+? I want to know if that extra $50 is really worth it, or if they're almost the same quality, and it's just brand preference.

2. Based on the the tasks I'll be running on said computer, I've configured my selection to have 1 GB RAM (I'll add the extra RAM later; $120 is too steep for another 1 GB) and an NVidia GeForce 7500LE 256 MB video card (because there was no option for a GeForce 7600). With a Windows Vista Home Premium OS, will my PC be really, really slow without 2 GB RAM, or will it be even able to load up at all?

I wanted to get a Windows XP OS PC, but every single PC outlet out there now runs Vista (geez...).

3. If you know of another place where I can get a PC with the same configurations as I'm looking for with a lower price tag, please feel free to recommend. Here's my prefered PC specs:

Dual-Core CPU
1 GB of RAM
256 MB Video Card (supports DirectX 9 and 10)
Windows XP or Windows Vista OS
Hard Drive at least 120 GB

Thanks.    I'm not too keen on HP myself, but knowing nothing about US dealers or pricing I can't recommend a better or cheaper option.
The Athlon is superior to the Pentium there.
As far as graphics go, that's a pretty basic card.
You'd be better off with the X1700, but that takes you over the budget.
Dell isn't good for gaming PCs in my experience.
I'd say 1Gb of RAM should be fine with Vista, but hopefully SOMEONE who knows a bit more about Vista will be able to confirm or deny that.
AFAIK it will be a little slower than you may expect, perhaps equivalent to 512Mb of RAM with XP.
Depends on how much eye candy you enable with Vista.
Anyway, they're two fairly good PCs, the Athlon-based one is better.
You may be able to get a better deal, you may not, as I'm from the UK I haven't a clue.
Hopefully that helps you out a little anyway.
Oh, one last thing.
Consider reusing some parts from your old PC if it is possible, it may save you some ca$h.
Edit: spelling mistake.http://www.dell.com/content/topics/segtopic.aspx/e510_nseries?c=us&cs=19&l=en&s=dhs

if you don't need to buy WinXP again.

Hey, nice find.
I found that with Stumbleupon a few days ago and though it was pretty cool.
However, they seem to me to be expensive STILL, even without an OS, and the graphics capabilities are quite poor so they're no good for games.
The X1300 Pro offered may offer the performance needed for the games mentioned, but no more - it's not a gaming card.
Plus it takes the price over $700. Quote

However, they seem to me to be expensive still, even without an OS,

and the graphics capabilities are quite poor so they're no good for games.

The X1300 Pro offered may offer the performance needed for the games mentioned, but no more - it's not a gaming card.
Plus it takes the price over $700.

What does the button on the LEFT do?

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]If I remember correctly (had this case a few years ago) it's a RESET button, press it to hard reboot the computer.I don't think it is the reboot button because of its LONG press the button on the right it reboots it. I pressed the button on the left and it doesn't seem like anything happens.If I long press*The button needs to be connected to the reset pin header on your MOTHERBOARD for it to WORK, if it's not connected the button won't do anything.  If you want to fix it you can open up the case, find the cables that come from the buttons/LEDs and check where the reset one is connected (I think the plug is labelled).Okay thanks for your help

I have an ASUS motherboard P8H68-M LE Series

Recently in the past few days I began to experience crashes when overloading the PC with programs and such, which did not cause problems previously. It began to crash more and more, even with less strain on the CPU usage.

Now the PC isn't starting up at all, it tries to start to really pathetically spin the PSU fan once or twice then abruptly shuts off, I have tried switching the power supply unit into another rig and it works fine, and I tried switching another power supply unit into this motherboard and the same problems occurred.

There is an onboard LED that "indicates that the system is ON, in sleep mode, or in soft-off mode." This light does remain green on the motherboard

I shouldn't have been messing with it but the motherboard also has an "MEMOK!" switch for installing incompatible DIMM's with the motherboard and it's supposed to light red if there are faults, for some reason when I hold down this button after turning on the PC it does not crash, but I can't just keep holding down the button and also nothing seems to actually launch, since nothing is appearing on the monitor.

I reinserted the RAM that I had to make sure there was no problems there.

I have no graphics or audio card, let me know if there is any other information I can provide.

Don't know what to do, looks like the motherboard is dead?
Sound's like that it may of failed from not having enough cooling This board has a 3 year warranty. You might want to exercise the warranty to get a new board after removing your CPU and RAM. Warranty info I found at newegg suggests it has a 3 year warranty.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131964

*Im guessing you verified that CPU fan spins and so it doesnt shutdown for a fan tach fault as well as the heatsink is properly attached to keep CPU cool so it wont shutdown from a thermal overload, as well as you have performed BIOS reset to that any overclocks etc are undone and its set back to default settings?Your Boinc stats are still broke...

Quote

Your Boinc stats are still broke...

Is there any other way to confirm time of purchase except for receipts ? Some kind of serial number on the board or anything ?  But I think I'm probably well over 3 years at this point, time is hazy.


Didn't really understand this ?  But I'm assuming its to make sure its valid for warranty ?

I just got a BUNCH of computer parts for Christmas and put them all together with the help of a fairly computer savvy friend. However when I start it up everything looks like it is working fine and yet nothing shows up on the display. The fans all TURN on, the lights all turn on, its making all the right sounding...clicks and such. Me and my friend are baffled.

I tried out my old video card to see if it would work, the same thing happened, I tried my new video card in my old computer and it worked. I tried taking it all apart and putting it back together. There is no video connection on the motherboard itself for some reason so I can't test that.
I tried out everything on this list as well http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/261145-31-perform-steps-posting-post-boot-video-problems
We just can't think of anything else to do

The pieces I have are
Motherboard
MSI 970A-G43 AM3+ AMD 970 + SB950 6 x SATA 6Gb/s ports by AMD SB950 - Supports storage and data transfers at up ...
Graphics card
ASUS Radeon R9 380 STRIX-R9380-DC2OC-4GD5-GAMING 4GB 256-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 HDCP Ready CrossFireX SUPPORT ...
Processor
AMD FX-9590 Vishera 8-Core 4.7 GHz Socket AM3+ 220W FD9590FHHKWOF Desktop Processor - Black Edition
Processor fan
 ARCTIC Freezer 7 Pro Rev. 2, CPU Cooler - Intel & AMD, Multi-Directional Mount, 92mm PWM Fan
Ram
ADATA XPG V1.0 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2133 (PC3 17000) Desktop Memory Model AX3U2133W8G10-DR
Case
DIYPC Zondda-O Black/Orange SPCC ATX Mid Tower Computer Case

Sorry if that is too messy or anything, if you want links I can easily provide them they ate just way longer.
Any ideas or help would be highly appreciated. Which VID connection are you using on the card ? ?I tried a DVI and an HDMIHDMI will not work til proper drivers are installed...use VGA...install drivers...power down and switch to HDMI and you should be good to go...There is no vga, I have ano adapter to turn it into a dvi and neither that or the HDMI are working. OK so me and my friend think it's the cpu now, that's one of the only things it could be at this point. We did test it in his computer a bit ago and the computer started up but we never actually hooked it up to a monitor so it could have been doing the same thing it is doing now.  So unless you guys or customer support (who should be calling me back at some point today) think of anything else them I'm gonna send for a replacement of that and hopefully be good.Doesn't that MBoard have onboard video ? ?
What leads you to believe it's the CPU ? ?

I want to create a partition in my hard drive to install Linux to dual boot with Windows 7, in my laptop. What I am not sure is where in the unallocated area of my HDD, that I should create that partition.

I have heard that, if partitions are created in such a way, as to make the Actuator Arm to move over too wide a range (area), back and forth across the HDD unnecessarily, while the computer is being used, it would cause more wear and tear and LOWER the life span of the HDD.

The attachment below SHOWS my HDD. As you can see I have over 200GB of unallocated space. I want to partition about 100GB for Linux. Should I make the Linux partition at the end of the unallocated space that I have marked as X, which would LEAVE some unallocated space after that. Or is it better to make it at the other end Z, which would leave some unallocated space before the Linux partition. If there are any better suggestions than X or Y, they are most welcome. The important thing for me is the efficient functioning of the computer and the avoidance of unnecessary wear and tear of my HDD, as mentioned above. I also want to keep Linux and Windows completely separate without any sharing of files or folders.

Thank you

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Hello,
Welcome to the forum if this is your first time.here you'll find a number of people who can give you good advice about what you're doing.
First things first. You must have a backup plan already in place before you tried changing partitions on your hard drive. Although Windows is fairly reliable, mistakes do happen. Sometimes it's the software, sometimes it's the hardware. But it happens.
Now about hard drive efficiency. This tends to be more of a concern for people that are running commercial servers and want to get the highest performance out of some older equipment. But that does not really apply to you. A small increase in performance would not give you a noticeable benefit. But in a commercial amplification that could make a difference in revenue flow.
Just go ahead and use Windows 7 to change the size of your hard drive. Did you say 100 GB? That is more than PLENTY for either Linux or Windows.
Once you have the space freed up on your hard drive, just go ahead and install Linux and tell Linux to use the free space on the drive. The Linux boot manager will do whatever is needed to be compatible with the Windows 7 boot system. If you're using a recent version of Linux, there shouldn't be any problem.
As mentioned earlier, the use of a backup is necessary. Without more details it's hard to know exactly what sort of problems you might come up against. But in most cases, installing Linux on a Windows system is not really a hard thing to do. You should not notice any difference in hard drive efficiency or performance. Normally Windows takes care of them efficiency problems and performance problems and from time to time will update the indexes on the Windows system.
I hope this is of some help you.
You can short stroke a drive to get sightly better performance but the gain really isnt that much. A SSD can be picked up inexpensively to be far better than a HDD for performance.

You can defrag the drive to get data grouped better and avoid excessive arm sweep as well.

I short stroked an old 164.7GB Hard Drive and only saw a 2.85% gain in performance with hard drive benchmark test from before when set up as a single 164.7GB partition to now a 40GB and 124.7 GB split. The gain in performance is not noticeable without a benchmark to show.

I have been told that the smaller the initial partition created, the better the results with short stroking, but i dont bother with that anymore ever since SSD's became available. And if I need faster performance than a SSD I will use a RAMdrive and allocate a section of system RAM to act like hard drive space. With part of your total memory count acting as a drive space information can be accessed greater than 10x faster than that of a SSD.Thank you Geek-9pm and DaveLembke, for your replies. I have installed Linux and it is working fine.

Regards

Hi,
Me again haha. My question is,
Why do I have 6 AUX Ports on my Motherboard and all of them are different colours, do they all do different things I think one is for a MIC right? I'll send a pic with it so you know what I mean.
I did try and Google it first INSTEAD of WASTING your time but I ACTUALLY couldn't find a thing about it, all i got was custom colour cables and what AUX means...

THANKS,

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]SEE Here:   http://h20564.www2.hp.com/hpsc/doc/public/imageServlet?DOCID=emr_na-c01884922-17/c00587895.gifwow, that's cool thank you

My daughter is having problems with her laptop-HP 15-f059wm Notebook PC.   It less than 2 years old.  Yesterday she was using it fine and then put it to sleep.  Went back to dorm, tried to turn it back on and nothing happened.  Took out the battery and still wouldn't boot.  When she had the ac plugged in the little light next to it was amber and the WIFI light was blinking amber.  Let it stay plugged in OVERNIGHT without battery.  Just tried to start it for the first TIME today and looks as if it was going to work and then the screen turned to look like the attachment.

Any help is appreciated.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]At what point does the display show this... such as is it right away or do you see the HP Logo and then Windows starts to load and then this?

If you never see the HP logo at boot or any boot info at boot if the logo is set to not display and it goes direct to this, then it could be a cooked GPU or APU, or main board failure. RAM could SOMETIME also cause this because system RAM is shared with GPU but i'm thinking it might be a hardware failure or damage.Thank you for your response.  It gets the hp logo (below) then goes to what I just posted above.
When she first turned it on it looked like the attachment here.


Then went to the WEIRD screen.  This is all happening with the battery off if that makes a difference.  The other thing she mentioned was the "amber lights" wifi & near AC were white, then they went back to amber.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Do you have recovery media for the system to perform a repair of the build to see if its a corrupted video driver? Seeing that logo is a good sign. The hand off from BIOS to booting OS is where your getting this screen issue.

One thing you can do to rule out hardware would be to burn to a DVD a Linux Mint distro and boot system off that disc and if its healthy off Linux boot then the hardware is fine and its corrupted software/driver for the Windows build.

OCZ SSD Failure - Any suggestions or tools to attempt to fix it with?

Its only a 30GB SSD and so I should probably just destroy it and get a new ONE for around $50 of LARGER capacity, but figured I'd give it a try here to see if anyone can point out a cure for it or not.

Mounted the SSD through external drive duplicator that also functions as a temp external drive bay. So the USB info you might pick up on in properties of the youtube video is because its mounted as an external.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWptJsbQ70o&feature=youtu.beUsing it as an external drive is of little value.  Awkward and messy without an enclosure.  (I do it,but I doubt you would.) 
Just put tit into you junk box and within a  year you will either find some use for it or else give it away.  Quote

Just put tit into you junk box and within a  year you will either find some use for it or else give it away.

Have been over a week now discussing problems with the above via Twitter and o2 chat line. Firstly, do you KNOW if o2 disconnect phones that have not been used very often for making calls on their 'Pay as you Go" TARIF?
The last couple of weeks, my phone will not connect to the server for making phone calls. Wifi and e-mails all ok. The guru in our local o2 store has made alteration several times and all works well until I get home, and although computer and shop tell me the signal is all right in my area, I cannot connect. Yesterday the guru altered it to connect with G2, which is in my area and all worked well for the rest of the day until I got home last evening ans then "No service". Same today. Any ideas? The phone is about 7 years old!!Firstly, yes it's normal for numbers to be disconnected if they're inactive for a while, policies vary from 6 to 24 months and I'm not sure what O2's is off the top of my head although I'm sure they could advise.
Does the phone work with another SIM?  Either the same NETWORK, or another if the phone is unlocked?
Have O2 tried a SIM swap, keeping the same number but using a different SIM?  That would've been one of my first steps if I were them - I'm not speaking as a phone company technician but someone who has managed a fairly large Vodafone contract so I did a lot of this sort of troubleshooting including SIM swaps and reprovisioning.Thank you "Egghead" for your reply. I have tried other Sim Cards but the result is just the same. Yesterday, a text message got through from O2 asking what I thought of their Guru. After quite a time, I prepared a reply. Of course I could not send it as the connection was down. This morning when I turned the phone on, the connection was made. I quickly tried to send yesterdays message that I had prepared, but the connection dropped before the whole message was sent. Knowing the trouble I have, why can't they connect with me via e-mail?  The wife thinks its due for the bin. Resale value to O2 now 20P!!If you've tried other SIM cards, I can only assume the issue lies with the phone.  Not being an iPhone expert and having in fact only ever touched one once or twice, I don't really have much to offer in terms of troubleshooting steps.
I gather from your original post that the phone used to work OK, did anything change between it WORKING and not working?  Any sofwtare updates, for example?A shot in the dark....we have had a Smart Electricity meter fitted with a hand held monitor. The monitor packed up after a couple of weeks. Stray signals??
Thanks for your replies,  Pete.I suppose it's possible but not sure how easy it'd be to confirm that.

every day only at the first power on,  of my computer, this stops here as photo
http://www.supermicro.com/support/SNGuide.cfm?sn=bios
if i close it by power button  and TURN on again  the computer work well  and it is fast
what can i do?I dont understand the link...there's 3 different screeens there...if you want it to LOAD to the OS after the BOOT screen enable quick-boot in the BIOS...PRESS F10 to "save changes and exit"...

BTW posting your email ADDY as a user name on a public Forum is gonna fill up your mailbox quite rapidly.

Hi all.

I have a pentium 4 with 2x512 DDR2 SDRAM installed (memory speed: DDR2-533 ;266Mhz) and 2 FREE slots.
If I were to upgrade, would you recommend:
1 - buying another 2 sticks of the exact spec to take the total ram to 2gig  
or
2 - replacing the existing sticks with the same amount of RAM, but with a higher memory speed (i.e. 800Mhz)

p.s. would the benifits of doing this be noticible, for example, in GAMING performance?

Thanx in advancecompare it,
i.e  1GB RAM 667MHZ  and 2GB RAM 266MHZ

i prefer 2GB RAM,

pay almost same price get more RAM.That depends on what your MOTHERBOARD will accept. If you get the wrong type it won't work. If it were me, I'd match up with the existing ram. You know that's gonna work. Quote

That depends on what your motherboard will accept. If you get the wrong type it won't work. If it were me, I'd match up with the existing ram. You know that's gonna work.

Recently picked up a Seagate ST3400620A.  It didn't do this while formatting it after install, but now, when the computer is idle, it makes an ODD noise - all hard drives usually have just a steady HUM, this one the PITCH kind of increases, drops back to a steady hum, then increases again, ever so slightly, then back to a steady hum - usually I've come to think this is a sign of a mechanical defect of some sort but I find that hard to believe with a fresh out of the box unit - also, another seagate (not a new one) that I borrowed from a friend several months AGO did the same undulating hum thing - any ideas as to what's actually WRONG?Could be just resonance into the case. I have small felt washers i use just for this purpose.

I have been given an Acer Aspire T690 and am trying to upgrade it. The mobo ID is E946gz, bios R01-B4. There are only two slots for DDR2 RAM and the original sticks are each PC2 4300 512 mb. With the original sticks the computer boots normally. If I place a 1 or 2 gb stick in one of the slots, with the original 512 mb stick in the other, the computer ALSO boots normally and both the BIOS and Windows report the correct total memory.

However, the computer will not start if it does not see at least one of the original 512 mb RAM sticks. If I try to boot with only the 1 or 2 gb sticks installed, I get the normal brief start-up beep and the Acer splash screen appears, but nothing happens after that. The computer won't boot and I can't get into the BIOS. It just freezes at the splash screen.

Can anyone explain this behaviour to me? Why will the computer only start if there is a 512 mb stick using up one of the slots? Is there any way to get past this?
  Is this the manual for the Acer Aspire T690 you have?
http://www.manualslib.com/manual/232901/Acer-Aspire-T690.html

Th 1 GB sticks you have are not the right chips or they are defective.

It certainly looks like the same computer. Thanks for finding the manual. I am glad to have it.

The problem is still a mystery, though. I don't know if it has something to do with the timing of the chips. I have several different sticks of standard unbuffered DDR2 RAM in different sizes and speeds. Two other computers boot normally regardless of the RAM used or how it is combined. That same RAM also seems to be working in the Acer. At least I can read and write it. I can also boot with it, but only if one slot contains an original Acer 512 mb module. Otherwise the computer freezes at the splash screen. I am wondering if this can be some kind of weird fault in the BIOS itself that makes it hypersensitive when booting but otherwise okay. If anyone has any other ideas I would be glad to hear them.
 

Are you saying that if you have a 512MB stick in slot 0 and a 1GB stick in slot 1 as 1.5GB Memory it works as 1.5GB confirmed memory count, yet 1GB alone doesnt work?  If you can get 1.5GB RAM working then run memtest86 to make sure the sticks are not fighting each other behind the scenes. A long time ago I dealt with a system like this and what made it work with an OLDER stick and newly introduced stick, but not the newly introduced stick alone was because when the new stick was combined with an old stick the system was booting at at FSB that was of the original spec of say 533Mhz and forcing the newly added stick which was a 667Mhz stick to underclock to 533Mhz FSB. However with the 667Mhz stick alone it didnt want to instantly downclock on its own to 533Mhz. It had to be fored by another stick to 533Mhz. You might be dealing with the same issue if it works fine on 1.5GB RAM and memtest86 is fine, yet you cant run the larger sticks alone without one of the 512MB sticks.

I would double check on their FSB speed of the newer larger sticks...

Additionally another problem you can run into is memory density. This isnt too much of a problem these days but there was a time when you had to make your that RAM for certain systems were not of a greater density. They use to look at the sticks for 8 chips vs 9 chips on them and other indicators but the memory specs for the stick itself will specify whether its a greater density memory used in that stick or not. Lower density memory for example would have chips on both sides of the RAM stick for a RAM stick vs greater capacity density chips on a singe side etc. But the memory specs from manufacturer should state whether its greater or lesser density.

Thank you for the information and the explanation. I appreciate your trouble. However, the mystery has just deepened.

I was discussing the problem with the person who gave me the computer, when she mentioned that she had another identical one! Apparently three were purchased as INSURANCE replacements several years ago. So I was given the second Acer to experiment on. This computer appears to be identical in every respect to the first one. Model number and other specs are the same. The motherboard markings are also the same. The only difference is that the second computer has had a memory upgrade! Instead of the two 512 MB modules that were in the first one, it has one module of 2 GB and another of 1 GB. I am aware the Acer manual says this computer model only supports 2 GB of RAM, but that appears not to be the case. The computer I am having trouble with works fine with a 2 GB module in one slot as long as the 512 MB module is also present, as previously explained. Accord to the memory diagnostics I have run, as well as some applications, the extra memory is also actually being used.

The second computer also works fine with 3 GB of RAM. I have tested that. Yet if I take the exact same modules out of the second computer, and put them in the first, I get the same problem. The computer won't start. There is one slight difference. If I put the 1 GB module, which is actually an official Acer module, in the second slot (furthest from the CPU), then I do get an initial display from the BIOS, which immediately freezes. With any other RAM, or with this module in the first slot, I see nothing at all, no beep or other sign of life, just a completely blank screen.

Again, just to be clear, two upgrade modules (2 +1 GB) work as expected in computer # 2. They do not work at all in computer #1, except I get the beginning of the BIOS screen if the 1 GB module is in the second slot. Both modules work fine one at a time in either slot, as long as the 512 MB module is in the other slot, exactly the same as every other piece of RAM I have tried.

So what on earth is actually going on here? I am perplexed. Except for this stupid RAM issue, computer #1 seems to work perfectly in every other respect. I have been using it for several days with applications installed to test it. I am not a hardware expert or engineer, but it seems to me like this must have something to do with the motherboard. It just doesn't seem to make any sense.

To answer your question, I did check all the memory I was using in tests to see if it was the same frequency. As far as I could tell, they were all the same, though the designation was a little ambiguous on a couple of them. The 512 MB module that does work is marked PC2-4300, DDR2-533. My understanding is that Acer's 4300 is actually 4200.
 

One more detail.
The two PCs have the same model #? Exactly?
OK, what about the serial #? And when was the #2 PC made?
And look at the BIOS version and date.
They are not the same.
Geek beat me to the same questions I have...  Quote from: DaveLembke on January 16, 2016, 11:15:07 AM

Are you saying that if you have a 512MB stick in slot 0 and a 1GB stick in slot 1 as 1.5GB Memory it works as 1.5GB confirmed memory count, yet 1GB alone doesnt work?  If you can get 1.5GB RAM working then run memtest86 to make sure the sticks are not fighting each other behind the scenes. A long time ago I dealt with a system like this and what made it work with an older stick and newly introduced stick, but not the newly introduced stick alone was because when the new stick was combined with an old stick the system was booting at at FSB that was of the original spec of say 533Mhz and forcing the newly added stick which was a 667Mhz stick to underclock to 533Mhz FSB. However with the 667Mhz stick alone it didnt want to instantly downclock on its own to 533Mhz. It had to be fored by another stick to 533Mhz. You might be dealing with the same issue if it works fine on 1.5GB RAM and memtest86 is fine, yet you cant run the larger sticks alone without one of the 512MB sticks.

I would double check on their FSB speed of the newer larger sticks...

Additionally another problem you can run into is memory density. This isnt too much of a problem these days but there was a time when you had to make your that RAM for certain systems were not of a greater density. They use to look at the sticks for 8 chips vs 9 chips on them and other indicators but the memory specs for the stick itself will specify whether its a greater density memory used in that stick or not. Lower density memory for example would have chips on both sides of the RAM stick for a RAM stick vs greater capacity density chips on a singe side etc. But the memory specs from manufacturer should state whether its greater or lesser density.

I'm running an A10 7870K on a Gigabyte Motherboard with 8GB of 2133Mhz RAM. I'm also using Windows 10. However, when stressing my APU to test it it throttles at 50 degrees CELSIUS which seems awfully low to me. ANY help is sorely appreciated. This is troubling me since this is my first time building a computer.What program are you using to MEASURE the temperature?  50C does seem low but it's possible that the temperature is not being read correctly.What is the EXACT Motherboard model#? I see lots of hits for people having issues like yours on google search for Gigabyte board and that APU. The solution I have seen has been adding a better cooler as well as one has suggestion of a BIOS update fixing the issue, as well as one has voltages being adjusted.

Are you overclocking this APU or running it at the stock speed as well?

I was using a seagate backup PLUS, (NTFS format). I plugged into a WINDOWS 8 laptop, and tried to open a sub folder in the  drive MAIN folder. however it can't be opened and there is an error message something like "the directories cannot be found" or "the folder is not located locally/on this disk".

I tried OPENING other sub folders and they could be opened. When I went BACK to the main folder, I found the folder that can't be opened previously disappeared.

I've tried:
looking in recycle bin
changing setting to show hidden folders/files
plugging into a macbook to see, which was used yesterday to transfer some video files into the missing folder.

all don't work. please suggest how to recover the data in lost folderThis might help. It sounds like the file tables might be corrupted. This should fix it if its just orphaned data tables.

http://www.tekrevue.com/tip/how-to-scan-fix-hard-drives-with-chkdsk-in-windows-8/

I have 2 fans, same model.
But the speed for these two fans are different under CMOS setting>hardware monitoring.

1st fan speed is 5300rpm, 2nd fan is 10030 rpm.

why? is that BIOS error?or hardware PROBLEM?
Are these ROOM fans or ceiling fans ? ?

Seriously what they are and what they are for is relevant information...

ALSO where are they being connected.

As i said right now we are at the guesswork STAGE...oh my god.
i am talking in prof way.
did u think a ceiling fan can be connected to a mobo/computer?
lol,i will try it later.cpu fan or system fan?
what 's the speed of cpu fan and what's the speed of system fan,
did you see any setting in bios ALLOW you to set the fan speed?

I would like to know if my hewlett packard with a 486dx2 processor and windows 3.1 OPERATING system is worth saving?Maybe pull out the "ram" and parts/ case, other then that
Not UNLESS you're into antiques, boat ANCHORS or doorstops

Really, it COULD be used as a gateway.  Something you don't want to use unless you need some extra security between you and the bad guys out there.

Alan <><  Word processor yes. A platform for older DOS games absolutely. INTERNET machine, not as easily, and certainly not for the squeamish.

Hey guys I was just wondering if any of you had heard about Wireless PC speakers.  I saw a product in Bestbuy today that was a wireless system but it was only to play mp3z off of your pc.  I was wondering if there are regular pc speakers that are wireless that would WORK for playing pc games and such.  :-?Give this a look:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.asp?DEPA=0&type=&Description=wireless+speaker&Submit=ENE&N=0&Ntk=all

Alan <><  I'm pretty sure speakers which PLAYED "mp3z" would ALSO play audio for games!

Hi Don't know whether ANYONE can adivise me what to do to correct this problem IE When I switch on my PC and the Monitor the amber light turns to green,instead of Windows loading the screen stays dark,but you can see the screen rolling[the controls are as follows 1 Off/On Switch 2 Menu 3 Contrast 4 Brightness 5 two up and down buttons 6 OK Button.The only way I can get Windows to load is to unplug the KETTLE plug from the back of the monitor and plug it back in,Windows then loads.None of the controls appear to be working.The Monitor is connected to the PC & Monitor by a Standard D Sub fitting at each end.
I would like to be able to start afresh ie back to default settings but cant find a way to do so in the online manual for this monitor.
Any help or advise appreciated.

MichaelI would try a BRAND new cable as moving it SEEMS to rectify it temporarily.tks for your reply replaced both  the power and D Sub cables made no difference,so must be a fault somewhere in the monitor,so its confined to the tip.

I have two of these  Dell 1703FPs that are doing the same thing, when you power them on they flash amber and nothing show's on the screen.  I am assuming that it's inadequacy power being provided too the monitor from the psu board which, I can easily get a replacement.  Looks like these displays are about 12 or 13 years old. I wouldnt invest anything into fixing them myself. New flat screens with better performance can be picked up pretty cheap. Additionally you can pick up GOOD used flat screens from $10 to $40 depending on the display.
It could be bad capacitors on the power supply that are technically replaceable but as Dave SAYS it's probably not worth it.  Especially since a better, used, monitor would likely cost less than the power supply board.kind of figured that is what it could be and can REPLACE it easilyIf it's anything beyond a simple capacitor swap, it's not worth doing IMO.  Don't spend any more than $10 on each, otherwise you could have SIMPLY bought a new monitor for the same price.I found a used working one cause, it seems too be alot of hassle too try and fix the unit.So I got two of these unit's one for 2.50 and another with $35 but, still have another sound bar and monitor stand

I'm not experienced with the technologies. But I do know the maximum amount of memory things i have is like 930 Gigabytes or something. If I had a a cheap computer that I wanted to switch to, like LETS say, a very expensive computer I won, can I take ALL the memory of the old, to the new? Like I'm talking about EVERYTHING. The iPhone backups allow something like this. You back it up, then load the saved backup on another phone that you might be upgrading to and then you have EVERYTHING from the old phone, in the new. Even the Safari tabs and history and saved passwords. Can I do this with computers? I so far have used 500 of 900 gigabytes. If I do this, how much of the information in the old computer will I find in the new? Will I open it and see on the screen what looks like an exact duplicate with all the DOWNLOADED programs and stuff?There are multiple ways to do that ACTUALLY. If you have a computer savvy friend or if you can Google enough info to do it yourself you can just take the hard drive out of your old computer and plug it into your new one. If you want to use 2 hard drives them you may have to set one as the main one. I'm not too clear on that process though.
The other option that I can think of would be to connect the two computers together and COPY literally everything from your old computer to the new one.  However this would take a very long time to do so it's not too recommend.I have no clue, what your really wanting since your talking about a Storage Drive seemly, or RAM.  Ether way, I would not do this myself since, your so unsure and you can't have 800 GB of RAM and unless your running alot of programs it will not change

The mb is asus P4S800 rev.2.01
The pc was working fine and all i did was transfer the mb and power supply into another pc enclosure. It would now power on and after many attempts i put it in the old box with no more results.
I tried clearing the cmos by moving the jumper from 1-2 to 2-3 and back, removing the battery, tried different power supplys, deplugging everything but the 20 pin power supply port and the 4 pin that controls de fans plus the 3 pin fan that is above the heat sink over the processor. All capacitators look fine.
I have nothing but a green light that shows the psu in on.
Can you help me? Does it work outside of any case ? ?
Have you tried a known good PSU ? ?For a breadboard test outside the case:
PSU....hook up all connectors
MBoard
1 stik of RAM
Mouse
Keyboard
Monitor.

Let us know...
And try a 3rd PSU just in case...Is there a chance that you over tightened any of the mounting screws and damaged the motherboard or JABBED a trace with a tool like a screw driver that pops off a screw head and digs into the PCB? Any chance that the motherboard shorted out at all on anything in the new case such as an improperly placed stand off that came to rest on legs of components on the bottom side? Are you sure your front panel connection is correct that you have the power switch, reset, HD LED and Power LED proper and no jumpers popped off thru the process? Any static shocks through the process due to dry air and improper ESD protection to where you might have spiked a chip and killed the board?Yes i did try it outside the box and yes i did try to force the 3 screws closer to the back of the pc because on the other box the holes were a bit farther, after that not working i tried with longer screws, but this is in fact the only abnormal thing that happened during the switching, so here it is... is there a way around that?This might help...
Google search:
https://www.google.com/search?q=+fix+a+broken+circuit+board+contact&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8
how to fix a broken circuit board

This requires some skill using a solder iron.
-  Which requires more skill than a screwdriver. 
Quote from: sirgilmour on January 19, 2016, 02:04:59 PM

Yes i did try it outside the box and yes i did try to force the 3 screws closer to the back of the pc because on the other box the holes were a bit farther, after that not working i tried with longer screws, but this is in fact the only abnormal thing that happened during the switching, so here it is... is there a way around that?

was wondering if the temps of an idle cpu that has been overclocked would be higher then the idle TEMP of a cpu that has not been overclocked? Mine is idling at AROUND 40-41c according to HWmonitor and is liquid cooled by digital storm vortex 240mm. Was wondering if thats normal or ok? When gaming it maxes at around 69c

cpu: intell i7 5820kThat is inside the normal range.The idle temperature of any non-overclocked CPU model is not fixed, but depends on the type of cooling and ambient temperature, air humidity ETC. Having said that, if you overclock a CPU it will generate more heat and run slightly hotter than before in the same conditions. 41 degrees C is fine. For a 5820K the max temp is OK too but you don't want to see over 75.

This is a follow-up question to my previous Acer RAM mystery topic. I have two seemingly identical Acer T690 computers. One runs at 667 MHZ with corresponding memory but the other is locked at 533 mHz. There is no SETTING in the BIOS to change this. Is there any other way to get it to work with the faster memory, such as a BIOS upgrade?
Auto is the best choice. If  you have a choice.
Boot both systems and go into bios or pay attention to bios splash screen and look for bios version. If there is a difference between the one and the other then get the flash and flash utility and flash the bios to newer which may support the 667 mhz FSB. This is ASSUMING both motherboards are the same exact make/model and rev boards.

NOTE: I have seen Acer use cheap bargain quality ECS and Foxconn boards for same model COMPUTER before. You might be looking at 2 computers that you think are identical but DIFFERENT boards driving them.533 RAM cannot be speeded up as best i know. Quote from: patio on January 25, 2016, 08:27:31 PM

533 RAM cannot be speeded up as best i know.

Boot both systems and go into bios or pay attention to bios splash screen and look for bios version. If there is a difference between the one and the other then get the flash and flash utility and flash the bios to newer which may support the 667 mhz FSB. This is assuming both motherboards are the same exact make/model and rev boards.

NOTE: I have seen Acer use cheap bargain quality ECS and Foxconn boards for same model computer before. You might be looking at 2 computers that you think are identical but different boards driving them.

Greetings.

I recently acquired a NICE new system. As the title Reads, its a nice power horse. A Dell Percision T5400 that runs currently with the Xeon X5450 (2 of them) each running at 3ghz, and 4Gb of RAM. I had to add a drive and video card. For now im running a Nvidia 8500 GT and a small 80GT drive.

Issue is whenn i recieved the machine it would not post. The Ram Slots are in the configuration of 1,5,2,6,3,7,4,8 and when i recieved it it had a gig stick in 3,7,4,8 and after fiddling around a bit i put them in 1,2,3,4 and it posted. I moved the computer and put it back a few hours later to FIND it wont post again. i removed RAm from slot 4 and it posted but only read 2gb as im assuming it works in pairs on a channel. I tried again getting all 4 to work and in a way found the bad stick. I then rearranged the ram and currently running Memtest86 to try an eliminate the stick. BUt have no idea how to configure such a machine nor if im doing this correctly.

Currently once again i have ram in slots 1 through 4 and running the TEST with the supposed bad one in RAM slot 1. So far 73% pass in and no issues.

Any suggestions are accepted as to what to do next. I also have an issue where in the BIOS the fans go nuts but regular usage like in ubuntu off the live CD and memtest its fine. i will soon be installing windows 7 pro on it as its licensed for that. ThanksI have a T5500 myself which is obviously a little different, but I'm somewhat familiar with this series of workstations.

Have you checked the manual for the system?  Usually with dual-socket systems, the RAM slots must be populated in a particular order, they can also be rather picky with RAM so are all your DIMMs matched?
Running Memtest on each stick in turn is a good idea if you can, off the top of my head I don't know if you can run that machine with a single stick or whether you need at least two whilst two CPUs are installed.
What BIOS revision is it on?  Might be worth updating it to the latest.
Also check your fan connectors, mine has an issue where one of the connectors is damaged so it doesn't read the speed although the fan does spin - this makes the fan slowly ramp up speed from boot so that after a few minutes it's at maximum speed although still reading as 0rpm.  Not exactly the same issue but it's worth checking to make sure the fans are all connected securely.Ive seemed to have narrowed it down to one stick. and its picky. Sometimes it BOOTS from one, other times it does not. Last NIGHT i got it going with all 4 sticks and mem test passed 1 round. This morning it does not wish to power on with the same config i left it at.

So i think ive weeded out the bad stick. Not sure about the sensors. The fans seem to be ok when i boot mem test but in the bios they go nuts. once mem test has completed ill check the bios Revision. Not very comfortable updating bios but its worth a shot hahaYou may wanna throw in a new CMos battery as well...
If it's a used system that is...I have thrown in a CMOs battery already. Im running windows 7 on it as of now with only 2gb running and i got a nice used 1gb 4850 AMD GPU for it. now im trying to find a Audio driver as Dell doesnt even support windows 7 on this machine.Give the Vista driver a shot...no promises...

Hi..I was bench testing the MOTHERBOARD after replacing a corrupt bios chip,the board POSTs ok and I was able to enter the Bios,nb I had one sick of Ram and a video card mounted on the Motherboard.I attached my USB Hard Drive to one of the Rear Usb ports and rebooted ,now although I got a single Beep from the Board I could not enter the Bios as there was a Black Screen with an Alert Ie Usb over current fault.I shut down the PSU taking all precautions etc removed hard drive etc.When I powered up there was still an over but no usb devise was connected to the Motherboard current warning.Is there any way of resolving this issue other than CLEANING USB ports and ensuring that all MB  usb jumpers are set to defauly.I have not had any issue with any of the USB ports before,and the USB drive is fine when connected to a Gygabite MB..
Any help or advice appreciated..Michael Quote

.Is there any way of resolving this issue other than cleaning USB ports and ensuring that all MB  usb jumpers are set to defauly

Hi all this is my first post here, because I am in desperate need of help. I CURRENTLY have a computer that my cousin himself made me and he put the parts together and such, I am now moved away from him and sort of want to get some outside help on the computer. Currently I know for sure that I will need a new case and at the moment I do need help choosing what is good. For the case I want a case that has a good amount of fans that is quiet, but keeps everything cool. Another problem is that lately if I open Speccy to check my temperature of my GPU it has been idling at around 70 just on the desktop with only speccy running,if I run a sort of small game like LEAGUE of Legends it starts running at 80-85. I am pretty sure the case and the GPU will have to be replaced, maybe even the power supply. I have my tax return coming up and I just want good suggestions, I already have my eye on the GRAPHICS card that I want, was looking at this one (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487159&cm_re=Nvidia_GeForce_GTX_950-_-14-487-157-_-Product), let me know if you think it's a good choice! For the power supply and case I really have no idea what works with what and how well, I do know how to hook everything up, I just don't know the market and what works well with what. Thank you for anyone that responds and gives a helping hand!

Current Build:
Case: Rosewill CHALLENGER - BLACK Gaming ATX Mid
CPU: AMD FX-8120   Zambezi 32nm Technology
Ram: 8.00GB Dual-Channel DDR3 799MHz
Motherboard: MSI 970A-G46 (MS-7693)
GPU: 1024MB ATI AMD Radeon HD 6800 Series (Sapphire/PCPartner)
Hard Drive and SSD: 931GB Seagate ST1000DM003-9YN162 ATA Device (SATA)   
111GB Samsung SSD 840 EVO 120GB ATA Device (SSD)
Power supply: If you run computer with side panel off does the GPU temps go back to normal? If it does then you know its a case issue with airflow.

Have you checked to make sure the fan isnt  clogged with dust and is spinning properly on the video card.

The other thing that can cause the over temp of GPU is if the heatpad or thermal compound has broken its bond with the GPU and heatsink face. So removing heatsink to GPU and removing old compound or heatpad and then new night fix it if the fan is fine and heatsink not clogged up. Quote from: DaveLembke on January 28, 2016, 05:39:24 AM

If you run computer with side panel off does the GPU temps go back to normal? If it does then you know its a case issue with airflow.

Have you checked to make sure the fan isnt  clogged with dust and is spinning properly on the video card.

The other thing that can cause the over temp of GPU is if the heatpad or thermal compound has broken its bond with the GPU and heatsink face. So removing heatsink to GPU and removing old compound or heatpad and then new night fix it if the fan is fine and heatsink not clogged up.

Hi,IM using the iphone earbuds with the built in mic.My pc have 1 headset and 1 mic jack seperate from each other,is there anyway i can join them together into 1 jack like the ONE that laptop usually have?Phones and tablets use one plug for the two audio outputs and the microphone input.
The lowest cost way is to just GET a pair of bargain headphones the have the plug your want. And use a separate microphone.
But if you insist.
Earbud to Laptop adapter.

Is anyone here familiar with this system? It uses either the CA810 or the CA810E board.

I am trying to figure out the max processor I can upgrade to. Here is my thread on the Dell forum and another board.

http://www.dellcommunity.com/supportforums/board/message?board.id=dim_upghw&thread.id=99335&view=by_date_ascending&page=1

http://groups.msn.com/4pcexperts/general.msnw?action=get_message&mview=0&ID_Message=14143&LastModified=4675609260719373150

Can anyone here offer any answers?

Is this really the CA810E board and can I really go to a 1.0 or 1.1 Celeron?

Please help if you can. I really need to know whether this will work before I risk messing up the board.

PKPost an Everest report so we can see what board you have.
Then we can hopefully advise further.
It may be easier, as suggested on the Dell forum, to save the money towards a new motherboard, with a new CPU?Heres some system info from CPU-Z

-------------------------
  CPU-Z version 1.37
-------------------------

Processors Information
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Processor 1 (ID = 0)
Number of cores            1
Number of threads      1 (max 1)
Name                  Intel Celeron
Codename            Coppermine
Specification            
Package                  Socket 370 FCPGA (platform ID = 4h)
CPUID                  6.8.6
Extended CPUID            6.8
Brand ID            1
Core Stepping            cC0
Technology            0.18 um
Core Speed            699.4 MHz (10.5 x 66.6 MHz)
STOCK frequency            700 MHz
Instructions sets      MMX, SSE
L1 Data cache            16 KBytes, 4-way set associative, 32-byte line size
L1 Instruction cache      16 KBytes, 4-way set associative, 32-byte line size
L2 cache            128 KBytes, 4-way set associative, 32-byte line size
FID/VID Control            no

Chipset
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Northbridge            Intel i810 rev. A3
Southbridge            Intel 82801AA (ICH) rev. 02
Memory Type            SDRAM
Memory Size            384 MBytes
CAS#                  2.0
RAS# to CAS#            2
RAS# Precharge            2
Cycle Time (tRAS)      6
Bank Cycle Time (tRC)      8

DMI System Information
----------------------
      manufacturer      Dell Computer Corporation
      product            L700C
      version            unknown
      serial            unknown
      UUID            99498292-4F2A11D5-B45F0010-83FDCE0D


DMI Baseboard
-------------
      vendor            Intel Corporation
      model            CA810E
      REVISION      AAA53824-302
      serial            0002E0861246415N002M

MI Processor
-------------
      manufacturer      Intel Corporation
      model            Celeron(tm)
      clock speed      700.0MHz
      FSB speed      66.0MHz
      multiplier      10.5x

And SysID:

SysId 2.0a By Morf (www.sysid.subnet.dk)
----------------------------------------

Cpu Vendor            : GenuineIntel
Processor Socket/Slot : Socket 370 (FC-PGA) or (PPGA)
Processor             : Intel Celeron 2 (0.18)
Cpu Clock             : 697.73 MHz
FSB Clock             : 66.45 MHz
Multiply              : 10.5

Family                : 6
Model                 : 8
Stepping              : 6
Type                  : 0

Level 1 Cache         : 32 K
Level 2 Cache         : 128 K
Level 2 Cache speed   : 1/1 of Cpu clock
Level 2 Cache speed   : 697.72 MHz
Level 2 Cache letancy : 0

MMX Support           : Yes
MMX+ Support          : No
3DNOW! Support        : No
3DNOW! 2 Support      : No
SSE Support           : Yes
SSE 2 Support         : No

Chipset               : Intel i810 (Rev. 03)

Physical memory       : 384 Mb
Memory Clock          : 100 MHz
Cas Latency           : 2
Ras to Cas Delay      : 2
Ras Precharge         : 2

Windows Uptime        : 18:14:05 and 0 Day's

Platform              : Windows Whistler Ver. 5.1 Service Pack 2And PC Wizard:

PC Wizard 2006 Version 1.70
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

<<< Mainboard >>>

  > Manufacturer : Dell Computer Corporation

    >> General Information
      Product : L700C
      Version : Unspecified
      Serial Number : Unspecified
      Unique ID : 99498292-4F2A11D5-B45F0010-83FDCE0D
 
  > Mainboard : Intel CA810E

    >> General Information
      Manufacturer : Intel Corporation (Intel)
      Product : CA810E
      Version : AAA53824-302
      Serial Number : 0002E0861246415N002M
      Support MP : No

      J3J1 - Fan3
      J7A1 - Configuration Jumper

  > Chipset : Intel i810

    >> General Information
      NorthBridge : Intel i810
      SouthBridge : 82801AA 8xx Chipset LPC Interface Bridge

    >> NorthBridge Information
      Architecture : HUB
      Manufacturer : Intel
      Codename : Whitney
      Revision : A3
      Bus Speed : 66.5 MHz
      FSB Frequency : 66.5 MHz

    >> Bus Information
      Type : LPC Hub
      Device : 82801AA 8xx Chipset LPC Interface Bridge
      Revision : 02
      Number of ISA Connectors : 0
      Frequency : 8 MHz
      Multiplier : 1/4x
      DMA Speed : 4 MHz
      Multiplier : 1/2x

    >> Bus Information #0
      Device : 82810 810 Chipset Memory Controller Hub
      Device : 82810 810 Chipset Graphics Controller
      Device : 82801AA 8xx Chipset Hub to PCI Bridge
      Device : 82801AA 8xx Chipset LPC Interface Bridge
      Device : 82801AA 8xx Chipset IDE Controller
      Device : 82801AA 8xx Chipset USB Controllers
      Device : 82801AA 8xx Chipset SMBus Controller

  I have REMOVED information that did not appear to be relevant.

What motherboard is this?  Is it the CA810 or the CA810E?  Can the CA810E have the 810 chipset rather than the 810E?  Does this matter?

Can I upgrade to a 1.0 or 1.1 Celeron?

The Everest report had too much information that I need to weed through before I post, but I can if you want me too.

PKsPEC's...SL5XT 1000 MHZ and SL5XU 1100 MHZ should work according to intel your motherboard will support 100 MHZ FSB CPU's.

Read the below website.

http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/ca810e/sb/cs-012805.htm

Also, Read the below website.

http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/ca810e/sb/cs-012801.htmI have seen that info.  

But how do i confirm what board this is, and is it relevant?

PK
You can determine which motherboard you have by the Altered Assembly (AA) number or the BIOS version string. The label with the AA number is found near the edge on the top side of the motherboard. The BIOS version string appears in the main BIOS setup screen.

CA810 AA Numbers       CA810E AA numbers
730959-xxx                      A01986-xxx
744854-xxx                      A01988-xxx

CA810 BIOS version       CA810E BIOS version
8C1A100A.86A.xxxx.xxx       CA81020A.86A.xxxx.xxx

Did you read the second link on my other reply?See Below.

http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/ca810e/sb/cs-012801.htmI have been through this before.  

As I mentioned in the other threads:

The AA # on this board is A53824-302.
 
The BIOS version that comes up at startup does say CA81020A.10A.0038.P12.0103071311 which does indicate the CA810E board.
 
I assume that the AA# is different since its a Dell board?  
 
The big chip on the board just says "810."  It also has "SL3P7" on it.

This and the system ID reports indicate that the board may be a CA810. Is that possible?

PK

Hi, I'm having some trouble with the display on my monitor.  The screen is stretched out horizontally for some reason, and I tried adjusting the display settings but that didn't work. I know its not my computer because I switched the monitor with another one I had, and the new one worked just fine. So, either my monitor is busted or there is something I haven't tried yet. Any ideas?  :-?

Here are the specs for the monitor:

Hewlett Packard
Model No: D5259A
Product No: D5259-60050
S/N: TT95202246

*It came with my HP Pavilion 8660Cpossibly a stupid question, but the desktop wasn't extended to two monitors, or something similar? Quote

possibly a stupid question, but the desktop wasn't extended to two monitors, or something similar?

im not sure but if u tried the displaysetting fer monitor have u  tried ur  display setting on ur computer ?if not right click desktop go to properties choose settings and change pixels into more or less  it may just be  that cuz ur problem sounds kinda like 1 i had a few weeks back wen i purchased a new flat screen  hope this helps sry if it doesnt and yes u can change ur  pixels back  if it doesnt help.

im not sure but if u tried the displaysetting fer monitor have u  tried ur  display setting on ur computer ?if not right click desktop go to properties choose settings and change pixels into more or less  it may just be  that cuz ur problem sounds kinda like 1 i had a few weeks back wen i purchased a new flat screen  hope this helps sry if it doesnt and yes u can change ur  pixels back  if it doesnt help.

Do you have any buttons or knobs on the monitor to fiddle with?

im not sure but if u tried the displaysetting fer monitor have u  tried ur  display setting on ur computer ?if not right click desktop go to properties choose settings and change pixels into more or less  it may just be  that cuz ur problem sounds kinda like 1 i had a few weeks back wen i purchased a new flat screen  hope this helps sry if it doesnt and yes u can change ur  pixels back  if it doesnt help.

Change the settings on the monitor... Stupid one... Get this guy off the forums... Press the Settings button on your monitor and fix it... Jeeze... LOL j/k

I have a scanner that when i try to install the software it says I NEED at least 3 meg of virtual memory.This is system memory that is simulated by the hard drive. When all the RAM is being used (for example if there are many programs OPEN at the same time) the computer will SWAP data to the hard drive and back to give the impression that there is slightly more memory.

Hello. This is my 2nd post, I felt like making a new one with more details and information would be more useful than just editing the original one. The issue is that the computer freezes, but only after 10-20 minutes after playing a game. Even a low-end game, doesn't have to be demanding.

What happens is the PC completely freezes requiring a hard shutdown, won't react to reset button. And after it's shut down i will need to press the MemOK! Button cause it won't boot while it's on.
I already ran memtest for 8 hours, found no errors. Stressed the GPU with furmark , nothing. Stressed CPU and also nothing.
I reinstalled windows thinking it's a software issue, but it's hardware.

Here's some errors I had before reinstalling -

•A BSOD saying "Uncorrectable hardware error"

•Another BSOD saying "A clock interrupt was not received on a secondary processor"

•And many PC freezes when playing games with audio loops.

Also I forgot to mention that sometimes, after freezing and rebooting it will freeze either in windows or in the loading screens.

My specs :

•Windows 7 Ultimate

•GTX 670 Direct CU II 2GB - GPU

•I5 2500k Not overclocked - CPU

•Hyper X 4X2 GB kit 1600MhZ - RAM

•Asus P8Z77 V LE PLUS - Motherboard

•500GB WD Blue - HDD

It could potentionally be the motherboard since when installing a new cooler ( after I installed it , the freezes started happening ) I placed the motherboard on my METAL CASE, it moved around on it and maybe got shorted.. There are no swollen capacitors or anything like that though.

What I tried :

•Memtest86

•Prime95

•Furmark

At this moment after posting the thread I'll go check the HDD since in Event Viewer it said there are errors.
Any help is appreciated, I really want to solve this since I built this PC for gaming, and everything it can do right now, is all BUT gaming.There was literally no need for a 2nd Post...
Just because bumping your 1st one didn't speed up the process...
Have you ran all the diags suggested so far ? ? Quote from: patio on January 31, 2016, 10:43:57 AM

There was literally no need for a 2nd Post...
Just because bumping your 1st one didn't speed up the process...
Have you ran all the diags suggested so far ? ?

hey ther,
well my samsung 40gb is not being detected by bios.
i tried the jumper configs. infact removed all the peripherals but for my HDD but still the bios is unable to detect it...
the hdd tools in ultimate boot cd are of no use as they can do nothin until the hdd is detected.
i hav ensured tht the ide cables are ok by testing another hdd.
further, wen i connect the hdd to the mobo, bios takes time to come to the post screen, whereas if the hdd is not connected to the mobo, bios quickly goes from the "press del to enter setup" page to the post screen...
i can feel the disk becomin slightly HEATED if kept for a while connected to the pc (although not being detected).. i guess that means that it is atleast spinnin!!

plz help as i think i have tried almost everythin...
still if there is somethin which i may hav missed out that i can try before givin it to the vendor. plz lemme know!!!!

regards,
shirish.  :-? :-?If you have a floppy drive you can try a win98 boot disk to see if it
shows up.

www.bootdisk.comSounds like that HDD has passed on...try it jumpered as a slave in another machine.well i jumpered it as a master in another machine.. and well the other machin got stuck at the initial mobo manufacturers display pic page... it just didnt go ahead..
and wen i disconnected my drive.. . within seconds of powerin it on, the post screen comes up...

i guess.. the machin tries to detect the hdd but just is not able too..
am i bein too optimistic in thinkin that my hdd is alive!! Quote

Sounds like that HDD has passed on[highlight]...try it jumpered as a slave in another machine[/highlight].

Sounds like that HDD has passed on...try it jumpered as a [highlight]slave [/highlight]in another machine.

Sounds like that HDD has passed on...try it jumpered as a [highlight]slave [/highlight]in another machine.

Can anyone advise why i seem to have high pitched sound coming out of my laptop speakers?
All music and sounds are really high and i can't figure out how to make it back to normal. I havent altered any settings.

Thanks
KellyWe would need some more details to advise.  I run on XP home, with light USE on my laptop.
I have an iPod and regularly update it using iTunes. I download quite a lot of music to it.
Basically, the sound when i play a song on iTunes, or even the notifications on Windows Messenger sound very high pitched- like the Chipmunks!
Need any more info let me know.
ThanksHave you tried reinstalling your sound drivers?When you go to the below
link at the bottom you have a seconds timer you must wait through,then
enter their provided code and download.

http://www.driverstock.com/Acer-Aspire-3610-driver-download/4-21-977-2634/index.htmltHANKS, will do, but do i choose mirror 1 (Acer Global) or mirror 2 (driverstock.com storage)? Or both?I would choose Acer Global.You do have an Acer. downloaded, but there are so many files- which one am i meant to click on?I downloaded it and unzipped it and at the bottom left is a icon
That looks like a monitor and an open box with CD displayed.
It reads Setup.exe.Try that.Are you sure this high pitch is from the speakers and not a hardware component in the laptop itself ? ?That worked! thanks problem solved.

Now, i have ANOTHER queirie for you....

Before xmas i had to send my laptop back to Acer for fixing the hinges as it had started to crack on the right side. As it was under warranty, they replaced the laptop lid and sent it back to me free of charge.

Now, about 2 weeks later, a green line appeared on the LCD screen. It is all the way through my screen vertically, right of the middle.

Afer looking up on the net for hours on end, i thought that is was a dead/stuck pixel. Now as i was out of warranty, i knew that it was going to cost me, WHATEVER the problem. I tried all the remedies going for getting rid of the stuck pixel- rubbing with cloth/flashing screen programs etc etc. Nothing works. I was under the impression that i would have to deal with it for ever, and having only had my laptop fot just over a year, you can imagine how upset i was.

Then, i noticed that if i bring the lid towards me, the line flashes and seems to go away. But when left still, it remains there. It is so annoying!

So, i rang acer, with the hope that maybe there is a loose connection after the new lid was fitted- i was told 'it sounds as if its a techncal internal problem, you will have to send it back for £x and pay £x for any work and £x for any parts NEEDED.'

Anybody heard of this before, or know anything about it?

Would appreciate any helpQuote:That worked! thanks problem solved.
 
Now, i have another queirie for you....
 
[highlight]Before xmas i had to send my laptop back to Acer for fixing the hinges as it had started to crack on the right side. As it was under warranty, they replaced the laptop lid and sent it back to me free of charge.[/highlight]

Acer didn't do the job correct and should finish the repair.

You should call them back with the information on the warranty
 
repair they just did.


Agreed. It's probably just the display ribbon connector that got pinched...thanks, will give them another try but i doubt i will get out of having to pay for something!

Cheers KellyThe squeaky wheel gets all the grease...mention that you are a MEMBER of one of the largest user Forums on the planet and might volunteer a unsatisfactory response to your current dilemna and they just might pay attention...

I've had this Benq DW1640 burner for just over a YEAR. (Just enough to outlast the warranty of course.) It has worked well until a couple days ago. If I try to burn something it will go through the process fine and say the OPERATION was completed successfully but then it won't read the disc afterward. I put in some other discs that were burned earlier and it reads them fine. The disc looks burned you can see the difference in color where its been written but it just SEEMS like it isn't putting the info on the disc. Just wanted to drop this in here in case there's something I can do before I go hungry for a week to pay for another one. Thanks in advance.Assuming this happened without any activity inside the case, etc., uninstall and reinstall the software and then CROSS your fingers.Also make sure you are FINALISING the burn...

What program are you using to burn with ? ?

You can DLoad IsoBuster if you need to read / retrieve any data from those coasters you made.

Hello,

I am working with a Toshiba Satellite LABTOP with WINDOWS XP. When the computer starts I get two beeps before it POSTs.  I get a black SCREEN with the following message:


RESOURCE Conflict: PCI Network Controller on Motherboard
Bus: 09, DEVICE: 02, Function: 00

Its a Phoenix Bios. I am assuming I have to change something in the Bios, am I right?

ThanksRe-install the MBoard drivers that came with that machine...

Playing a midi file with my Dell XPS400 integrated sound card results in music that is just enough off key
to be annoying. I play an accordion alongside but can't stand the mismatch. Have been playing the same
instrument alongside music from my Dell Dimension 8100 equipped with sound blaster card and have no problems. Are there any sound cards that allow one to change the pitch? Quote

- - -
 Are there any sound cards that allow one to change the pitch?

Hello again WillyW and Calum. Just downloaded Audacity and it appears to have great capabilities. Unfortunately it does not yet support MIDI files. Most of my "music" files are MIDI at the moment.
I did note on their web site that they are considering adding MIDI edit, play, etc. capability some time in the future. I'll keep my fingers crossed. Thanks again for you help.

No, not from me. Nor do I represent them in anyway. More business people are finding they can not run legacy software on their new 64 bit Windows 7 and Windows8 computers. Simple solution is to buy a new computer that comes with an OS the is compatible with older DOS-based applications. These can be desktop towers of 4U rack mount units. Such new legacy computers can communicate with other compeers via a Ethernet NIC. (But might not be able to join a network due to security limitations.)
Google 'new computer with legacy OS' - without the quotes. I  found at least one company that sells units about $350 with no monitor.  For some that would be a good investment.They're not new PCs, they're ancient, at least if I'm looking in the same PLACE as you.  $330+ for a Celeron or P4 CPU and an old OS, no thanks.
Not sure about over there, but here if you look away from places advertising that they specialise in legacy OSes, you can pick up a refurb machine with similar specs and an OS, plus support (so, no difference to that place) for about £40-50 at most.
Those prices are just sky high, it's a nice enough idea but they're way out of line on pricing - especially when running a virtual machine with the legacy OS on a new PC would be much cheaper and potentially better.Just... wow!  That is just insane!  You could find one a machine with that spec for like £20 on eBay or even for free at the dump, anyone spending that on ancient hardware really needs to look at what they are doing!

I mean, for pretty much all legacy software, you can USE a virtual machine and even if this software requires fancy hardware so won't work in a VM - Pick up a cheap second hand/refurb PC and use that!  Sure you won't get a warranty on a second hand machine, but if the machine cost $35 you could afford it to fail and need replaced 10 times before you paid the same as one of those new ones!Right!
As I said, I don not endorse the company. I put it here for the business man who just can not see himself  ever using something old. Yet he wants to use old proven software. Some equipment made twenty years ago is still a valid solution to some piratical problems. But new is desirable, when available.
Here is one of the sources I found.
http://www.nixsys.com/products/legacy-operating-system-workstation-and-servers.html
Quote

2U 3U and 4U rackmount chassis, other formats are available upon request. Many people resist investing in older operating system computer for their companies because they think that the system are not available and the ones that are available are too expensive. But here at NIXSYS we build brand new industry standard components to custom-built Legacy O/SComputer at very low price.

Anything in a rackmount chassis under $500 is a fair deal.

How are you gonna sell aPC on a contract basis that's net worth is 40 bucks and make any money ? ?
Not trying to discourage you but the whole concept is absurd.

BTW i have clients that need to run legacy apps...what they do is not buy ancient equipment to do so ...rather they  pay people like myself to setup whatever PC's they have to enable them to run Legacy apps...
Just sayin.

Right. And they give you a bottle of Chivas Regal Royal Salute? If so, ou are ..ahh.. doing OK. Twenty minutes  of talk and get a $100 Scotch.

How are you gonna sell aPC on a contract basis that's net worth is 40 bucks and make any money ? ?
Not trying to discourage you but the whole concept is absurd.

BTW i have clients that need to run legacy apps...what they do is not buy ancient equipment to do so ...rather they  pay people like myself to setup whatever PC's they have to enable them to run Legacy apps...
Just sayin.

The web site I used as reference says the make legacy computers. They did not say the sold rebuilt computers. In some places new has to mean new.