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Hi I have a Lenovo c320 :http://www.lenovo-shop.sk/download/221-datasheet-c320.pdf
I was wondering if ANYONE could help me with this i want to BUY a new GRAPHICS card and i was wondering would this graphics card work http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JR9KXZM/ref=dra_a_cs_ss_hn_xx_P1200_1000?tag=dradisplay0bb-21&ascsubtag=d5e9e2652e67b46ed744168dc1db1b7f_S would my pc handle it or would i have to get the 2gb one.
Please help

ThanksThe C320 appears to be an all-in-one machine therefore it is unfortunately not possible to upgrade the graphics card.How ever i have seen people upgrade it so i just wondered if my pc can handle it as i know it will fit
Where EXACTLY have you seen people do it ? ?open the thing up and show how they put a new graphics card into the pc i know it will work i just need to know will it handle the 4gb graphics card
Either your machine is not a C320 or those videos are not for a C320.  The Lenovo C320 does not have the SPECIFIC expansion slots required for a graphics card.

Hi, I am looking to REPLACE my old hard drive with a SSD.  I need to install an OS plus all the programs and our own files, however this will take a long TIME which my better half isn't keen on.  Can I just unplug the SATA HD, plug in the SSD install what I can (before being moaned at) then swap the drives back, repeating this process until everything is installed? Your other option is to use a drive image app and clone the existing HDD to the SSD...
I use Acronis...not Free...
Easus ToDo and Macrium Reflect both have Free versions...Other than software other method is a drive duplicator. I picked one up for $40, but its because I have a need to take a highly configured system and keep a master drive for it and duplicate its contents into run drives, so as long as the A and B slots dont get confused during the DUPLICATION process, I can push a clean copy to a different drive of equal or greater capacity.

If your SSD is smaller capacity than your HDD then this wouldnt work unless you buy a higher end duplicator with sizing features.

Free software OPTIONS ... Clonezilla is one method for software as well as DD, but if you mess up the process you will destroy all your data.

http://clonezilla.org/

http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/19141/clone-a-hard-drive-using-an-ubuntu-live-cd/ Quote

Free software options ... Clonezilla is one method for software as well as DD, but if you mess up the process you will destroy all your data.

my crt monitor screen appears to bow in the middle ... like it's sagging.

I'd appreciate some advice on how to correct same ...

but please keep it simple, as I'm TECHNICALLY inept.This is probably CONTROLLED by a set of BUTTONS on the monitor itself...USUALLY on the front but sometimes on the side or the LOWER front.

patio.  8-)

I have a Dell computer and Windows XP.  I have a Lexmark X73 which I have had on this computer for years.  It worked fine until recently.  I keep getting this stupid message on my screen (twice) each time I restart computer that says "Install new hardware wizard"  I have been trying to get this to go away for a year and I can't do it.  So, recently I decided to try to go through the wizard one more time to try to get it to go away.  Well,  after trying it not only did it not go away but it messed up my printer connection.  

I have uninstalled my printer and reinstalled it from the disk.  I have downloaded the driver from the Lexmark website.  I seems like the printer installed because the folders are there but on when I go to Controll Panel-Printers and Faxes and it is never there.  

WHY will the computer not show my printer.  I do not know what else to do.Sometimes printers, like all electronic components, just die. I would try this printer on ANOTHER computer to see where the problem lies. If it does the same thing when connected to another machine, just dispose of it properly.   Quote

Sometimes printers, like all electronic components, just die. I would try this printer on another computer to see where the problem lies. If it does the same thing when connected to another machine, just dispose of it properly.  

Before posting, I searched for answer to no avail -- My pc has internal CD drive.  Think it's a 52x24x52 CD-RW based on what I saw in hardware profiles (I'm not sure, though, because the computer is a hand-me-down!)  It used to work, but now when I insert a disc, the drive's motor revs up (loudly!), but the computer will not recognize that a disc is already inserted.  

Have tried a number of DIFFERENT discs:  brand new blank, ATT modem disc (the one I really need to dowload), music disc, etc. with same result.  I uninstalled the CD drive and rebooted and reinstalled, but no help.  Anything else I can do before giving up?  Clean optics?  But, if that is a possible fix, I have no idea how to do it.  

I know a new drive is inexpensive, but I just moved cross-country and am in between jobs so every penny counts!  

THANKS for any help you can provide.  Usually it's the optics that go first on those drives. You could try cleaning the laser lens but it does sound like it's shot.
Thanks.  I have no idea how to clean the lens (or even how to get to it).  Is there some cleaning kit or special disc I should buy in order to clean the lens?  Yes there are cleaning disks available at any computer store...

Good Luck to you.

If it doesn't work newegg can ship you a brand new DVD burner for about 40 bucks.And hopefully you haven't spent $10-15 on a cleaner that will not fix an old drive with worn out optics. Quote

- - -

Have tried a number of different discs:  - -  - ATT modem disc (the one I really need to dowload),

 

does anyone KNOW how to fix the resolution and color settings?
i've tried multiple TIMES but the settings won't apply when i restart my computer.
if anyone could GIVE me some tips that would be APPRECIATED trevor591...... Perhaps you could mention what it is your trying to RESOLVE.....
What operating system are you using , when did this start ? What were you doing just prior to the issue starting ?


dl65

i have an hp pavillion a335w with a sony cd-rw crx215e5 that does not recognize any cds. i have uninstalled and REINSTALLED and it still doesnt WORK. please help
Sometimes they just die, like all electronic components. There is a reason the warranty is only a year or less on these things. How OLD is yours? Luckily a new DVD is only about $40 delivered.

For quite a few months now, my sound hasn't been cooperating properly.  During the summer it worked FINE, but suddenly I could only listen using earphones, and the problem progressed into that I have to hold them a certain way or no sound comes through at all.  I have surmised that this is indeed a port problem, but what, exactly, could this be?

(And it can't be a virus, because I have wiped the drive three times since this issue began.)

Thanky!Sounds like it's either the sound port, where you plug the speakers or headphones in, or the headphones themselves.
Do other headphones WORK OK?
It'd not a virus, definitely a hardware problem.No, I've tried about six different pairs of headphones and all herald the same result.  Have you any idea how to remedy it without having to take the computer to a tech guy?A sound card can be had for $10-20 and one screw is all it takes to put it in place. I wouldn't pay big bucks for this SOLUTION.  

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16829102182

There's one.As GX1 said, you need a new sound card.
Easy to install yourself, and the one he posted is fairly DECENT too so your MUSIC will sound better.Alrighty.  Thank you!  ^_^

Hi My Hard DRIVE disk is almost full! My problem is that I have so many programs starting up when my computer is loading and Im SURE these programs i dont even use! My C: is 12.8 total.

Where can i go to see what programs are loading up with the computer startup, if not is there any specific MATERIAL (magazines, other websites) that would be able to help me with this.

Really Appreciate it.

ThanksWhat OS is this?
To free up space on your HDD, which is what I guess you want to do, uninstall any unneeded programs and also get CCleaner to clean any junk from your system.
Stopping programs from starting with your PC will speed up your boot time, not free up space.Startup CPL from MIKE Lin...

Calum, what's a bot time ? ?
 The time required to load Spybot?Bot time - the time required to load a bot.
Or to get infected by a bot with unprotected Windows.
I don't know.
Fixed now anyway, stop abusing me.
jst cooz i cnt speell . . .
 Oh this isn't abuse...you haven't come close to abuse yet...

Tell 'em GX1_Man.st0P t3h 4bu51ng M3!!111!
*cries in a corner*

My COMPUTER spontaneously reboots at various times when I try to backup by master and slave drives.

Quick background.  My 8yr old 60G hard drive finally died so we upgraded.  We updated to a 120G as the master and bought a 300G Seagate external for a backup drive.  My system has a DVD and DVD-RW drive, a 120G and 160G hard drive (master/slave, respectively), a 3.5 drive, and three fans running off of an Antec TruePower-2.0 430W PSU.  My speakers, 22" Flatscreen, modem, router, and printer as well as the external drive each have their own AC power supplies.

I READ on a couple of forums (COULD not find one here) that said a spontaneous reboot during something like this is almost always a PSU issue.  One problem, my external drive has its own power source and it only reboots when I attempt to back up my master/slave.

Any ideas?  Thanks in advance.

ZDoes the 300G external have it's own power source ? ?

If not you might want to invest in a USB enclosure that has one. That's a large draw for a USB device...

Hello, I just recently purchased a dell inspiron E1705, and i have a problem. You see i have my own wireless card that works better than the one built in my dell pc. and there is a slot on the side to insert your own wireless card. now the problem is that my card wont go in fully. it goes in like 4/5 of the way but then just wont go no more. its not attached to my pc because my pc doesnt detect any new hardware and i know it DIDNT fully go in. i've tried this with 3 diffrent wireless card and none go in. I also no there is nothing blocking its PATH because the laptop is just 3 days old. Is there any kinda SAFTEY thing blocking it or SOMETHING. im confused. its my FIRST time owning a laptop. i mostly work with desktops. please help meIf it is new, then I would contact Dell immediately. That is not a normal occurrence.

I hope I don't sound too ignorant but I need help with a power supply problem. I have a Gateway Performance 500, P III puter. It has a Newton Model NPS 200PS-96C power supply. I use it for the grand daughters video games. Turned the system off on evening, everything was fine. It hasn't turned on since.  I also checked the on/off swith on front of the CASE. No fans work, no lights are on, no noise at all. I check some of the connections with a volt meter and get no voltage going to anything coming out of the supply. Ive tried three different web sites TRYING to buy a new supply, even gateway doesen't service this supply any longer. I'm not looking for this particluar type or size, I just want a supply. I was told by directron flat out that they couldn't help me. Is this the only supply that will work in this machine? Can I install one with more watts? I would be grateful for any ADVICE and my two grand daughters said thanks also...I believe it was HP that bought out Gateway you might have some luck at their site.

Also if there is a repair shop in your AREA then remove the PSU and take it to them and ask if it is a "propietary" design. Explain your problem they may be able to tell you either way and or sell you a new one.

As to the wattage the general rule is too much will do no harm but you never want to go lower...especially if you have added/updated any components.

patio.  8-)I would contact these people directly:

http://www.atxpowersupplies.com
I thank you for your replies and I will check out the web site. I have found several that have all of the connections that this supply has, they were just a 300 watt supply. The others may have thought I was looking for the EXACT supply but I'm not.I stand corrected, The PSU I was looking at did not have the same connectors mine has. I have not found one yet matching mine so I'll find a puter repair man and see what happens. Again, Thanks for your help...


                Glen

Hello folks. I'm looking to buy a cheap graphics card for a secondary computer I have. I'm thinking of getting it off eBay or somewhere similar. The computer has an AGP x8 slot currently OCCUPIED by a 5700LE. I'm selling this to a friend and looking to replace it with something a bit more snazzy, maybe a 5700 Ultra. But I was wondering if anybody has other suggestions, for example would a 6200 be better? The main problem is I don't know the power supply as I got this computer second hand, so I'm wary of getting anything too far above my current card. If anyone has any suggestions on a new card, or if they know how much more power is required by the 6200, it would be appreciated. As you can gather I am just looking for a cheap card that will play GAMES "well enough".

I have included an Everest report. Also I am planning on increasing the RAM amount as well.

Thanks.

Edit: Ok it didn't like a htm file so I'm zipping it...Glancing through your report, you need more free space on your HDD.
The 6200 will be less powerful than the 5700 you already have.
I'm not too sure of AGP cards available nowadays, but you'd really need the PSU specs before upgrading as many new cards demand a lot of power.
Something like a 6600 would be good, or the 5700 Ultra you mentioned.
A 5900 series might be OK too.Harddrive space is irrelevant

Remember I have a 5700LE only.. I'm pretty sure the 6200 is faster than that, if only marginally. I don't have enough money to upgrade the PSU which is why I was wondering if the 5-series consumed less power?

The 6600 is completely out of my budget I don't think the 6200 would be faster, it's very low end.
Isn't the 5700 sort of middle-upper side of the 5000 series?I did a google search and some guy on a forum said this

Quote

The 5700 (425 mhz core clock) is still faster than the 6200 (300 mhz core clock) all around.  Don't go for the 5700LE, however, as it is considerably slower than both.

I know this things ancient, but how do I determine the memory type for a HP Pavillion V50?  I went to HP's website, Crucial, Kingston, Ebay, and nobody lists memory for it.

It currently has 64 mb.  In the Bios it lists speeds of 667 MHZ and 66 Mhz.  I can pull the memory card and go to the store, but I was hoping for something a little easier.  The cpu is a Celeron and the computer has Windows ME.

My friends mom wants to browse the internet and check EMAIL over a DSL line and that's it.  She's use to a phone modem, so I'm not worried about it being slow.
I think a V50 is a monitor, not the computer. You can download and run Everest Home to see EVERYTHING about the machine, including a model number and proper memory slots. Post that info and we can go from there. Some older models were VERY picky about the RAM they could use.

http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.html

I think you're right about it being a monitor.  V50 was on the monitor, I assumed that was the computer model number.  I'll check again.The model number was XE775    Crucial has 128MB for $21.99 + $5 for s/h.  Any recomendation for the mimimum RAM for Windows ME?ME will run FINE on that and be even HAPPIER with 256...did you get the RAM info by entering your machines info at Crucial's site ? ?

patio.  8-)I would not buy RAM for that machine from anywhere else.  I didn't order it yet.  Yes, I got the info from Crucial's site.

The machine has 64 mb, but 1 mb is used for onboard video, thus reducing available memory to 63 mb.  The Dynsex Lan card (or however you spell it) requires 64 mb.  Do you think it the lan card will work with 63 mb?  

If not, I have some old memory laying around, I think 256 mb.  I'll install it, run an extended memory test and see if it fails.  The old memory I have was not compatible with the memory in my own computer so I never used it.

That RAM may be incorrect for this machine as well...

But Good Luck.Some of those old HP's used a proprietary memory. Whether it fits or not is not relevant. Good luck though.

Windows XP SP2, Foxcomm C51GU01 motherboard, Phoenix Bios Version 611E3P04.

I can lead the Bios to the external USB2 drive, but there it hangs, showing me the specifics of the
drive but failing to boot.  My boot priority is:  1) CD  2)Removable  3)HDD

I know the drive will boot.  It looks to me that the Bios does not see the drive as a drive
when it is associated with removable.  If my system will not boot to Removable with a HDD inside
why is removable one of the three choices in setting priority?  Is the motherboard the issue?
Please tell me that I can make further choices in Bios settings to resolve this issue.

Hi. I have a dvd rw TEAC W516G-A95 drive and recently it started not to read dvds and cds. When i insert any media, it takes some time for it to read them, and after that TEAC BEHAVES like there's no media inside. When i TRY to access, it says "please insert disk into driv e", like there's no media. I tryed to clean it with LENS cleaner, but it didn't work. Can anyone help?Usually the optics go long before the mechanics, that is the tray will OPEN and close, but you get the symptoms you have. There is a reason these have only a 90 day to 1 year WARRANTY. Luckily a new DVD burner can be had for less than $40 delivered.

My folks had a HP from the turn of the century that was dieing and they wanted me to gut... well, I wanted to gut it so I got them a new machine and have been trying to salvage what I can from their old beast. Now they tell me they need stuff that was stored on their old HD(documents and whatnot).
I tried to hook up the HD to my computer, but my HD is SATA and theirs is IDE. Now, I know that setting up a HD as a secondary slave should not be that difficult. I've seen it done, and read online walkthroughs, but I cannot figure it out. When the old HD is hooked up it boots to that ONE, which is not what I want. I've tried messing around with boot order BIOS, but truth be told I am more a self-taught techy and I've never really gotten the hang of BIOS. Now, the Hard Disk stopped responding.
If anyone out there can give me some tips on what I might have missed, please let me know. The DATA is very important and I am desperate to get it.
PS: I removed the little jumper on the HD because I was told that that is the thing to do, does it matter if the IDE HD is set to slave or not?
There is no master and slave relationship in a Sata. You can set the disk as a Master or a single disk on its own if there is a setting for such. Go out to purchase an external hard disk enclosure, INSERT the century-old hard DRIVE in it, hook it up with a USB cable and let it work as an external hard disk.

Problem solved. External enclosure for 3.5" HDD enclosure retails at about 20 sterling in UK and should be well under US$40 in USA
Although if you still have any problem with your HDD then why don’t you try any Recovery labs like  Salvage Data Recovery Lab. They usually solve these kinds of problems with a snatch of the finger.

Hello, any good starting points for troubleshooting what may be wrong?  I have an HP desktop that my daughter was in the middle of using (searching the WEB), when it just POWERED off.  everything ELSE, the monitor, printer, ect. stayed on and now it will not turn on at all, no fan starting, no blinking, no noise, nothing.
Thanks for any suggestions or if you need further info, LET me know!At the least it sounds like the power SUPPLY has died. If you're lucky, that's all. Are you comfortable working on it? How old is the machine? Hopefully it's still uinder warranty.

Hello everyone. I am going to START building a new computer for gaming and I would like to please ask for you all's help...  I have been looking at motherboards and processors out there and Im just not sure what to get... Will someone please TELL me what a good gaming motherboard and processor that would be good for me to go with.... Please include with the motherboard what kind of processor i need with it.... and if possible a link so I can look at it.... Thanks everyone. And please give me a few good sites that sell motherboards too please... Thanksi personally use http://www.ncix.com. i bought all of my computer components from here. their top ten mobos and processors are all great for gaming. (added note: ncix.com is candian based, in order for US prices you must click on the american flag.)

for a motherboard, i would RECOMMEND a board that is SLI compatible and has at least a 4gb RAM limit. make sure it also has SATA connections. if your picky on sound quality, i would recommend buying a sound card and not using the mobo onboard sound.

as for processors, from what i have heard Intel Core Duo's are the BEST for their price.

i cannot give you an exact link to either mobo or processor due to the fact that you have not STATED your budget.

ok lets see,i am getting a job soon,i hope,and i am going 2 build  a new computer


i have a geforce 5500 128bit,and it's not cutting it for me

all i do is PLAY games,:P

i currents have AGP,when i build  my new computer,should i go with PCI,AGP,or PCI-E ?


i want 2 be able 2 play anygame,in best graphics,and run better than,a game on lower graphic ,If your getting a totally new system then you will want PCI express. PCI express is the new standard for video cards and will have a greater compatibility lifespan then AGP will as it is being phased out right now.

As for recommended cards-
-Nvdia
7600GT, 7900 -great performance for under 200$
-ATI
X1600pro, X1650 -again great performance for under 200$

One thing to keep in mind when building a good gaming system is that you want to BALANCE the rest of the components with the video card for the best overall performance. A really good video card can be crippled if your system has a very slow processor, very little ram or a WEAK power supply.

Wheather to go with ATI or Nvdia is a MATTER of personal preference as they both have their pros and cons but either will get the job DONE.

C: is set active and formated with win 98.

A friends computer is having some trouble.

Its a home built computer.

The computer boots just long enough to see some info on the MB and its bios version, etc. then shuts off. As in shuts the power off.

Have unplugged all hardware and plugged it back in. Changed out the power SUPPLY with a known good one, also the hard drive. Pulled the memory sticks out and put a known good stick in too.

Same problem.


Could it be something with the MB itself or the processor?

Or what?

Can anyone give me an idea of what to look at next?


Thanks,What motherboard? WHat processor? WHat about the heat sink/fan?MB-Gigabyte MB GA-7VKMLS.

Processor- AMD Duron 1.1G

256MB of PC133 memory.


The cooling fan on the processor is spinning fine. The computer does not stay on long enough to warm up.


It just powers up for a few seconds to where you see some info being DISPLAYED then it shuts off.

I had a similar problem with an Asus P5b mobo at the weekend.  It would power up, then shut down and then power up again with no video.  I suspected the GPU or power supply for a while but it turns out that it only happened when the front panel USB ports were connected up.

The front panel USB ports consisted of two four-pin connectors plus two separate wires marked as 'shield'  The mobo USB connecter has room for five pins on one side and four on the other.  So naturally I connected up everything but the single 'shield' wire for one of the USB ports.  I carefully followed the guide for pin alignment.

However, if I simply unplugged both 'shield' wires, all problems were resolved and the USB ports still worked.

Odd, but that's all it was.

So my tip to you is to unplug everything except the graphics and memory.  make sure it boots fine with just that, then put things back one at a time until you isolate the problem.I got it fixed.

After doing everything esle, I finally pulled the processor off the MB, re-installed it ALONG with NEW thermal paste and its all good now.

Ok I FIGURED out that my power supply can put out 250 watts max. I was wondering if i could put in a video card that requires 250watts?yes250 minus 250 leaves nothing for the REST of the machine!So are you saying i can or cant?not unless you run the rest of your comp of another power supply. Another thing to check is does it requier a peak of 250 watts of a constatan. If it is peak it is very risky if you vido cards gets working really hard you comp will crash because there isent enough power for anthing elese.starcraft2007.....  How did you FIGURE out that you PSU is 250 watts ?
What vid card are you proposing to install?


dl65  My power supply can put out a max of 250watts not my cpu. And i want to install a PNY Verto GeForce FX 5200 / 256MB DDR / PCI / Dual VGA / TV Out / Video Card.Comments posted by sneakers and mcf747 are not valid.  Never do the minimum power requirements stated for video cards MEAN that that entire amount of power must be available for the video card alone, leaving no power for other components.  Visit http://www.journeysystems.com/power_supply_calculator.php to get an idea of the true power consumption/requirement for your system.A brief moment of sanity on the topic.  



Ok Soybean, I guess 250 - 250 would sort of mean no power for other components. Don't you think Quote

Ok Soybean, I guess 250 - 250 would sort of mean no power for other components. Don't you think

I have scoured the net for days,
read many posts that seem to relate to my issues,
have tried many different changes to fix my situation.

My setup...

CASE: ASPIRE X-QPACK WITH 420W PSU
MOBO: ABIT SG-95
RAM: KINGSTON KVR667D2N5/1GB
CPU: INTEL PENTIUM D 840 800 MHZ FSB
HDD: SATA 1.5

CPU FAN IS CHEAP, BUT DOES OPERATE, using a 3 pin plug on a 4 pin connector.

My problem is this,
I put the system together and had issues with not being able to get into bios due to keyboard LOCK up.
After several attempts to MAKE sure everything was set properly, I tried again and in bios, the keyboard locked up again.  I actually changed the cpu fan plug to an onboard system fan connector and it seemed to work with giving me a greatly increased amount of time but still having intermitent lock up.  Temp seems fine in bios, but I cant get windows installed without is saying something about a conflict I think, and I not sure since it restarts the computer before I get the chance to read it.  I have no other devices connected but a hdd with windows xp installed, to try and get to a boot and it restarts at boot.

I was trying to install a BRAND NEW, CERTIFIED  Windows XP Pro with SP2 using a USED dvd rw optical drive on the sata drive with computer lock up during format.  Even having the computer say it had a conflict and locking up.

I tried the bios clear with battery out, taken great care with grounding myself when working on any part of the computer, and can't get more than an electronic paper weight.  I have a very limited budget and have been purchasing parts over the past month and a half, and can't justify any major item purchases to get spare parts to test the PSU or RAM, but the bios does recognize both and at their appropriate speeds.  I am usure what the Temps are at this time, and I don't know what they should be.

I have thought it could be the power supply, but I don't have a 24 pin psu to test it with.  The RAM is not marked as one tested by the MOBO maker, but the Kiingston site marks it as acceptable.  

Any suggestions or questions, please add them and I will reply when I can.
Thanks
pj


Is this a USB keyboard or a real PS/2 one?

What is the make of the power supply? Was it new?

Did you test this build as you went, or just plugged everything in? Sometimes it is DIFFICULT to troubleshoot unless there is only one variable at a time.

Remove everything except 1 stick RAM, the video card and the CPU/Fan. See if you can get into the BIOS. Does that work? If so, download and run Memtest (free at www.memtest86.com and let it run for a while, like 30 minutes. Any errors?

If not, add one thing at a time and retest the system for functionality.

Post back.Initially the keyboard was USB until I ran into the problem the first time, then changed out to the ps/2.
the situation continued.  I had started the build from putting all parts together, but have tried to trouble shoot by removing everything down to RAM and CPU.  

The PSU make I don't know off hand, but the website shows the following infor for the unit and all parts were new except the optical drive

AC INPUT 115V/230V - 60/50Hz
DC OUTPUT +3.3V +5V +12V1 +12V2 -12V -5V +5VSB
420W Max
Combined
Watts 31A 29A 14A 16A 0.8A 0.3A 2.0A
420W


I am not sure of the "memtest" and how it works so I have not been able to do this yet, but will be giving it a try.

My option after that is to try a diffent bus speed RAM, but now we are getting into financial burden for something that may not be the issue.  First the memtest though, thanks.
Quote

Initially the keyboard was USB until I ran into the problem the first time, then changed out to the ps/2.
the situation continued.  I had started the build from putting all parts together, [highlight]but have tried to trouble shoot by removing everything down to RAM and CPU.  [/highlight]

The PSU make I don't know off hand, but the website shows the following infor for the unit and all parts were new except the optical drive

AC INPUT 115V/230V - 60/50Hz
DC OUTPUT +3.3V +5V +12V1 +12V2 -12V -5V +5VSB
420W Max
Combined
Watts 31A 29A 14A 16A 0.8A 0.3A 2.0A
420W


I am not sure of the "memtest" and how it works so I have not been able to do this yet, but will be giving it a try.

My option after that is to try a diffent bus speed RAM, but now we are getting into financial burden for something that may not be the issue.  First the memtest though, thanks.

I built this comp using the FOXCONN 945GZ7MC mobo and put an Nvidia 7300GT into it. The *censored* thing will not recognize my monitor.

I start up and the monitor is just blank. 'No input'

The board comes with an 8-pin power connector, but I didn't have an 8-pin so I took two power connectors(6 and a 4 pin) and plugged them both into the slot, leaving two power PINS off of it. The computer started up fine.

Why am I having this problem?

This happened with the last one that Newegg sent me! I sent it in because I thought it was DOA and they gave me a replacement. Now I still have the same problem. I already tested with another monitor. What the heck is wrong with it? Quote

The board comes with an 8-pin power connector, but I didn't have an 8-pin so I took two power connectors(6 and a 4 pin) and plugged them both into the slot, leaving two power pins off of it. The computer started up fine.

Hello

   Sure hate to bother you fine folks with this problem .  I am trying to run a memory test on my computer , i have put Windows memory test (mtinst) and memtest86 on floppy and cd and when i put eitherone of them in and restart my computer its starts beeping in the windows is shutting down part of the restart.  I do not know how many times it beeps because after it beeps between 65 and 100 times i pull the floppy or cd out.
   Help this OLD man out if you can.
Thanks
harley


Asus P4c800E Deluxe
Intel P-4 800 3.0G 1mb cache
CRUCIAL 3x512mb DDR 400 PC3200 1536mb
2x WD 80GB Sata 150 7200rpm 8M
Ati Radeon 9800XT 256MB
Windows XP , home sp2
IE6
SB audigy 2ZS
SBS 450 4.1 speakers

This is somewhat confusing. Memtest has nothing to do with Windows. That is why it is a bootable DISK format.

What happens EXACTLY when you start Windows with the memtest floppy in there? What is on the screen?GX1_Man


   Thanks for your reply sure do appreciate it.  OK , i put the floppy disk (test) in the floppy drive , hit start/restart then i get the logging off then saving setting then windows is shutting down , heres where the beeping starts.  the screen is the regular windows logo with the windows is shutting down deal.
harleyDon't put the floppy in until the machine is completely powered down...then re-boot.Patio

    Thanks for reply ,  its working now . Shoot i had thought of doing that but the instructions says to restart after putting in floppy.
thanks again
harleyYou're more than welcome...GLAD you got it solved.

patio.  8-)

Hi, I have an Packardbell platinum 6001 running windows 98se and i want to put it back to its original settings.  I have done this before but cannot remember all the steps. Please note that this machine will note wipe with the recovery disk or BOOTING from a cd. I star her up and press F8 and get into set up then there is a menue with 4 or 5 options what option do i choose to COMPLETELY wipe it.
Other than that if i go an buy a new hard drive for it do i need to configure it to RECEIVE the operating system or WOULD it just be a MATTER of installing the operating system straight from the disks.  please help if you can. thanks.

Hi.  I have a broadcom internal modem.  I also am on dial-up to connect to the internet.  If I leave the phone cord hooked up to the computer, it keeps the phone line open even  when I am not connected to the internet.  If left long enough, I eventually lose a dial tone, as though the phone was left off the hook.  Can this be fixed or should I get a new modem?How do you disconnect after your done using the internet, not unplugging the cord though?

 8-)fffreakI do disconnect before unplugging the cord.  I have to unplug the cord after disconnecting because if I leave it plugged in the line stays open and I lose dial tone on the phone.  I know it sounds nutty but I promise I am disconnecting from the internet! Thank you for REPLYING.  Have you always had this problem with that modem?  Perhaps you should just replace the modem.  Some 56K modems are priced quite low.  See Modems > interface : PCI Bus (Plug & Play), from Newegg.com. Quote

I do disconnect before unplugging the cord.  I have to unplug the cord after disconnecting because if I leave it plugged in the line stays open and I lose dial tone on the phone.  I know it sounds nutty but I promise I am disconnecting from the internet! Thank you for replying.  

Hello-

I have the following and primarily use my PC for gaming.  I have around $200 and would like to upgrade, but what should I do FIRST.. better VIDEO card, better or more ram, or something else?

OEM AMD X2 3800CPU
4 X PC3200 PC400 DDR
500W Power supply
16X DVD +-RW drive
Maxtor 200GB SATA 1500 7200RPM 16MB
Radeon X700 video Card

Also my computer makes alot of clicking sounds.. any IDEA?

Thank you!What SORT of games do you play?
And what else do you do with your PC?
How much RAM do you have?
Quote

4 X PC3200 PC400 DDR

Also my computer makes alot of clicking sounds.. any idea?

how are u gonna get all this for $200???

Be careful what you wish for.

"The graphics card is the only thing that matters."

Can't record a download
Yesterday at 9:08pm Quote MODIFY Remove
Hope I'm in the correct forum. I can't record to my system anything I want to download. I can view a download mpeg (streaming video) for example but I can't save it to a file. That is unless it's being hidden but I've DONE searches after I try to save and can't find a thing. Help me PLEASE. Something I just discovered-I installed an EXTERNAL harddrive and noticed that even THOUGH I formatted it NTFS it states in the computer management screen that it is FAT32. This download problem began at the same time. Could that cause this?
BGNo need to double post .

 8-)fffreak

Hi all!

I've done some search on the net but didn't find the solution for this problem.
I have 2 Maxtor HDD's 30 GB each, in raid0. And now I added a 120 GB HDD ALONE so out of the raids. But when I configured the raid setup, i accidentally said yes to 'Do you want to erase old data for the new array' or something like that. I was stupid, I KNOW. I thought it's just the usual confirmation thing.
And now I'm here with a 60 GB not initialized, unallocated drive.
I thought its best not to do anything until I'm really sure about what I do.
The problem is that there were some very important FILES and digital photos on that drive...

Please, can you think of any possible free solutions to this? No matter how hard it is, or long it will take, I would even SIT here for the whole night if I had to.

Thank you very much for any advice on what to do.
This is the same blunder I did and you knows what… I almost lost my data. I was so tensed caz all data was lost (I thought ) But My friend suggested me a lab something called Salvage Recovery Lab or something similar to that. When I contacted I got my problem was solved. They solved the bug and got my 90% of the data back. I don’t know how but they managed to got it back. I was extremely  happy that I got my maximum data. If you want you can call at 1 203-973-0242 get your problem  solved.
All the best.

Hi! EVERYONE, i just formated and reinstalled WIN XP Service pack 3. Like always i partition my drive into C for the system files and all the programs I'm running, and drive D for my very important staff.
When ever I'm doing a new Windows installation i never delete the D drive, i only format the C drive and proceed with the installation on this drive, now here is the strange thing "last night after finishing the window installation i realized that my D drive became the C drive and the C drive is the D drive and thats where the OS is" Well I'm surprised never seen this before and at the same time I'm worried with my files being on the main drive C: INSTEAD of on the D: drive. Guys what is the cause of this behavior and is this normal? How can stop this from happening again NEXT time? Thanks in advance for your attention.   :-? :-?I wasn't aware there was a SP3 for XP.
Is there another physical HDD in this machine or just the one drive with partitions ? ?
What program did you use to create the partitions originally ?

I am building my first computer so i may be on here a lot.
I just put everything together and tried booting it up for the first time and nothing happens.
-The POWER supply is good i have checked it.
-I get a green led on the motherboard but no lights apear on the front of the case.
-No fans come on.
-I checked my wires coming from the front of the case to the motherboard and they are good.
-I checked all the plugs coming from the power supply going to the motherboard.
-if you need any more info like the specs of all my parts please let me know.nks1426....... Ok ...lets try and find out what the issue is .........

what is the MOBO make and model......... ?
How are the front panel wires marked ?


dl65  mobo is an ASUS p5B atx.
the front panal wires are labeled
-H.D.D LED
-Power Sw
-Reset Sw
-and there is a single + and - wire
the mobo came with a Q-connector ( a pre labled connector that you connect all the wires too and then connect the one connector directly to the  motherboard.
other facts:
-pentium D 3.0Gh dual core processor.
-GeForce 7600 512MB video card
-2G Kingston RAM
-Rosewill rp500-2 500W power supply.
-Seagate 40G hard drive
-Centurion Cooler Master case nks1426   ...... I'm just looking for the mobo manual for that board ......


dl65  okok ...got it ....now tell me where you have the front panel power wiring connected ?

dl65  I have the front panal connectors attached to the Q-connector i mentioned which goes in the system panal connector in the lower right hand corner of the board below the LED light.Into the terminals which are marked panel on the board ?

dl65  I just want to confirm that you have a p5B ..... are there any other letters or numbers behind the B ?im not sure i get the question but next to the system panel connector (a 20-8 pin panal) in the lower right hand corner on the motherboard it says panel. I am looking at my diagram in the user manual and i also checked the board itselfo ok. no it is just the P5B. i did not get the p5B delux or any other version. if you need i can look up the actual part number or anything else that would help from my purchase record.I'm looking at 2.2.3 Motherboard layout ...... is that the same as yours?

dl65  nks1426......  Do you have Msn messenger and a mic and I could speak to you directly ?

dl65  mic no msn messenger yes. [email protected]

Edit ..... CHECK your private message

dl65

You need to ADJUST your screen resolution to what the LCD 's native resolution is.
I am sure you will need SOMETHING greater than 800 x 600. See your manual if not sure.

http://www.microsoft.com/enable/training/windowsxp/screenresolution.aspxIn addition . . .
Quote

And the color is really BAD like a bad panting

Hi!

I know this is a common issue, but I didn't find helpful solutions on the internet (other than re-applying THERMAL paste).

When running Prime95, temps goes up to 100°C very quickly, voltage of 1.23v, thermal throtling on 2 cores.
But at idle the CPU runs at 4.4ghz on 1.23v at a healthy ~37°C (or less), which is good.

I find it strange that the CPU temperature is good at idle, but very hot under 100% load. Is the voltage to high?

Room temperature is around 20°C. Here is the spec of my fresh build PC:
Case: Bequiet Silent BASE 800
CPU: i7-4790k, stock speed
CPU cooler: Bequiet Dark Rock 3
MoBo: MSi Z97 Gaming 5
OS: Windows 10 x64


Thanks!


P.-S.: Re-applying thermal paste is the last option because this cooler is very hard to install  Just so you know Prime is about the most aggressive CPU test app out there...there are others.
If you aren't seeing those temps in daily usage i wouldn't worry.

P.S....are those stock volts...or are you OC'ing ? ?What stress test do you recommend for a less agressive, more relevant test to see if the cooler is installed properly?
Thank you!I'm using a 4770K that is entirely stock aside from the paste (speed, voltage, cooler, etc.) and other than a higher idle temp (around 50 degrees) I see the same behaviour running Prime95.

I'd argue that being able to run Prime95 for more then a few seconds without a thermal shutdown or a fire is probably reasonably good evidence the cooler is installed properly. Quote from: patio on January 28, 2016, 01:21:19 PM

P.S....are those stock volts...or are you OC'ing ? ?

I'd argue that being able to run Prime95 for more then a few seconds without a thermal shutdown or a fire is probably reasonably good evidence the cooler is installed properly.

BTW ...you never answered if you see those temps in daily usage...

Then you have no worries...

P.S....are those stock volts...or are you OC'ing ? ?

Do you thing the motherboard gives more voltage than needed?

OK, let me put out as much info as I can. This is quite an old PC (about 4 to 5 years old), but it's the best I have right now before I can get a hold of some serious money to get a new PC.

Pentium 4 1.7 Ghz
Windows XP with SP2
512 MB RAM
GeForce 4000 128 MB Video Card
Maxtor 120 GB Hard Drive

The problem started Sunday evening, January 28. While surfing and watching videos on Youtube, my whole computer froze. When I rebooted it, I found out that when my CPU usage hits a little BIT over 100%, the whole system freezes up. Thus, I had to override my antivirus software and such. I tried reformatting the Hard Drive, but it won't even let me reformat the hard drive, or install Windows, since it also freezes up during installation.

I tried to replace the hard drive with two others. Other hard drives respond properly, although one of them reached a critical error (the blue screen), and one hard drive was faulty (when I installed it, it just kept beeping and wasn't detected).

After some time, I was ABLE to reformat the HD and install Windows without it freezing, but when it began to check for updates, it kept freezing so I had to TURN updates off (same problem; when CPU usage hits a little over 100, the entire PC freezes).

I want to know if this is just a hard drive issue, or it's something far worse. That way, I know whether I need to completely replaced the PC, or just fix a few items to last it through until I get a new system.

Thanks.PLease help. I'm waiting for a response before I take any action on the PC.I have some things to say.
Quote

my CPU usage hits a little bit over 100%

I have been transferring files from my PC to my laptop via a USB drive and find that not all files are displaying when i OPEN the USB drive on the laptop. There are 799mb files indicated (Right-click on the drive>Properties) but only 199mb total of files are displayed when I open the drive.

The files are a mixture of FOLDERS and .exe files that I am trying to transfer. Some files I will delete because they are already on the laptop, others contain .exe (downloaded apps.) files along with reg. numbers and relevant info. Most apps. are up and running on the PC and I now want to INSTALL them on the l/top.

The "hide protected SYSTEM files" is unticked as well.What method did you use to copy the files ? ?Hi Patio

Using WinXP SP2 OS, I drag-and-dropped individual files from the PC folders into the 'removable disk', USB drive.

Cheers
GaryThe only time this method causes problems is when the files/folders exceed a certain size...

I use the "Send To " extension for Windows from the PowerToys collection and have never had an issue. Puts everything a right click away.Thanks

I will give it a try NEXT time I copy files across.

Cheers
Gary

i have an ACER laptop and i CANT GET my other computers speakers to work on it..the LAPTOPS speakers are just to quiet

Hi,
 I got a GENERIC TABLET that doesn't have any readable instructions with.From India.
I am trying to copy & paste.It seems when I select an item all I can find is paste.
Don't I need copy first? Then say I'm going to copy an item from CNN even if I get copy how do I
get to notepad to paste it without losing the cnn page? On the COMPUTER it's so different.
This is the first tablet I've seen so I'm in the DARK yet.

Hello. I have used a HP d530 motherboad (Asus P4SorD-LA) to replace a Gigabyte 8s661fxm-rz on a Fujitsu PC that failed after years of service. I moved the PC3200 memory modules and the P4 3.2  Ghz CPU. At boot, a message is displayed warning that a specific microcode is required for the installed PROCESSOR, but on pressing F1 booting goes ahead and the computer runs FINE. Is the processor working at the specified speed ? I feel it is not any slower than when it was on the Gigabyte motherboard!You need to get a BIOS flash to add support for the newer CPU. If your lucky it will run the CPU and get past boot so you can run the system to flash it. If you CANT get past this then you will need to put the original CPU back into the board and then flash it newer to support the CPU if it even supports it and then upgrade after BIOS flash update.

You will want to flash it with version F10 for extended CPU support.
Looks like there are BIOS updates available: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=1777#bios

Be sure this is your board before flashing: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=1777#ovThe Gigabyte is dead and HP ceased support for the d530 SFF long time ago and, since it's a propietary BIOS, the Asus update won't work. As it is, it work fine and boots ok beyond F1, but is there a way to know wether the CPU is working at 3 ghz or not?I forgot to mention that there are very marked variations in the CPU fan speed depending on load.Run CPU-Z on it and it will show CPU info as well as RAM speed FSB etc. Sorry for the mix up with the boards, I had it backwards. Dealing with the F1 to continue for microcode error is only a pain if you want your system to be able to boot without it. Back in the day I upgraded a Celeron 500Mhz socket 370 Compaq computer to a Pentium III 850Mhz socket 370 CPU and it came up with the same microcode error and there was no flash to support the Pentium III 850. The system ran fine and faster then ever with the powerful Pentium III 850Mhz. BUT... It was only running the 850Mhz CPU at 700Mhz with 100Mhz FSB as at post it stated 700Mhz so the Pentium III 850 was underclocked by 150Mhz, however performance far better than the Celeron 500Mhz. If your lucky its running at 3.2 otherwise it might be 3.0Ghz.

By the way... WARNING on the HP D530 motherboard. Greater than 75% of these boards that I dealt with for the HP D530 series had bad capacitors. If your board doesnt have swollen or capacitors that are leaking electrolyte your FORTUNATE, but at my last job we had  about 60 of these D530s and all of them started to acts up and I found that their capacitors around the CPU were swollen and leaking. This model was part of the capacitor plague that hit so many boards of that manufacturing period from HP, Compaq, Dell, Acer, eMachine, Gateway, Sony, and others.

Also the Fan speed controller for the CPU Fan on the D530 which are the desktop SFF version have been known to spin up so fast with the air ram type of CPU heatsink fan that they sound like a jet engine ready for lift off. So if its loud, its normal. The Pentium 4 2.8 HT - 3.4 CPUs run very hot and on the HP SFF's they will sound like a jet engine when the CPU load is high and the system ramps up the fan speed to cool itself. ONE way i was able to get the system to be quieter was to replace the air ram type heatsink with a standard socket 478 heatsink, but the fan speed controller does drive the fan pretty fast at times. Hopefully you have new thermal compound between the CPU and heatsink after the swap. Poor or reused thermal compound will cause it to run hotter than fresh thermal paste.

Thanks for the tips and the warning. The caps (first thing I inspected since that caused the Giga mobo's faliurl) were in good nick.

This is what I currently have and what I am adding to it just need to know if I need to upgrade motherboard and if so any suggestions?

CURRENT Build:
Case: Rosewill CHALLENGER-U3(2 fans are not working)
CPU: AMD FX-8120   Zambezi 32nm Technology
MotherBoard: MSI 970A-G46
Graphics Card: 1024MB ATI AMD RADEON HD 6800 Series

To this build:
Case:
Thermaltake Chaser MK-1 VN300M1W2N
CPU: Same as old build
Graphics card: EVGA GeForce GTX 950 2GB FTW GAMING
PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G1 80+ GOLD9(NEEDED a new ONE other one was a used one of my cousins)Nope, there's no reason you would need to replace your motherboard for those upgrades. Quote from: camerongray on January 29, 2016, 04:10:04 PM

Nope, there's no reason you would need to replace your motherboard for those upgrades.

This is always the first place I come to when having troubles

OK, so I got a new 'barebones' system and am trying to take the HD from my old system and put it in the new.  Here are the specs

Old system

P3 933mhz on Aopen board
256mb RAM
128MB Video PCI
40G Seagate drive
Windows 2000 SP4

New system

P4 3ghz
Elitegroup RC410l/800-M board
1024mb RAM

I thought I'd be able to just stick in the HD and install the drivers in the new system, but I am getting the INACCESSIBLE BOOT DRIVE 0x000000007B error after initial windows STARTUP. I tried a spare drive that I had and got the same. They are both marked for master/single drive and were on IDE1. They both showed up in the BIOS.

Any thoughts!?  Thanks!


I thought i'd be able to just stick in theOH.. and i put the the HD back in the old system, and it works.what is the os of the new systemIt's the same HD for both systems, so Win2000 SP4So you did not reload Windows on the new hardware after the transplant?Hey GX1_Man!   I remember you helped me w/ some drive issues before :

No, I just put the HD from the old system into the new one. Do I need to reinstall windows?Yes, a reinstall on the correct hardware it is expected to function on is always the BEST idea. You should backup any data files first.Doesn't that just figure, especially since my WIN2K CD is scratched and unreadable...

Can I get away with using the XP update or do i have to do a clean install?If you are using an XP upgrade CD you can USE just that. Sometimes you can copy a bad CD and get a usable copy, if cleaning alone doesn't work.

So i have a

MOBO: ASUS Sabertooth Z97 Mark II LGA 1150 ATX Intel Motherboard
CPU: i7-4790K
GRAPHICS: EVGA 970 SSC
RAM: 8Gb Ram 19200 EVGA
WATER COOLING: NZXT Kraken X61 ( i believe)
PSU: Seasonic 550 WAtS

When i plug in the NZXT Hue Lights to a molex it doesn't turn on. Previously i tried using a CD burner and my p.c wouldn't boot and my friend attached the burner while my p.c was on it turned off completely. Is this because my PSU doesn't have enough watts? If so would 600 Watts be enough?I moved your topic to the correct forum and gave it an appropriate SUBJECT. Please use common sense when you are POSTING and asking for assistance. Make it easy for us to help you. Thank you.I APOLOGIZE i didn't correctly see hardware section correctly, i'm a bit light headed but no need to be mean about it BUD. Just asking for some help cause i'm not sure what to do. Is this about lights not workin...or a DVD drive not workin ? ?
What MODEL Seasonic BTW ? ?
And how old is it ?

I know what i'm going to say sounds picky but i want a new case and i want it to be perfect for me.
I'm trying to come down from one of those full tower Haf X cases for several reasons, it's a really good case but alot of it's features and size isn't necessary for me.

I'm looking for a new case but having trouble picking a good one. I'd like a case that has....
- Good airflow and quiet fans.
- compact size, eay to move.
-no front panel DOORS!
- none of those plastic covers that go over the side fan.
-a nice sized window.
- full black interior.
- a few usb ports.
-leds are fine
-lightweight
- good cable management
- both side panels come off for easy acess to mobo


I need to fit these parts in it
-atx mobo
-windforce gtx 970
-1 hdd, 1 ssd
- corsair 750 watt psu
- h80i liquid cooler
These take up the most space.

Like i said, i know it sounds picky and i don't expect you guys to do hours of research for me. I'll appreciate any sugestions. My budget is around 100$-140$

Also how much could i get for my haf x if i sold it?I couldn't be happier with my Corsair case - I have a 650D which is a bit big and old for your needs but something like the Obsidian 450D or something from their Carbide series looks like it could do the job.

May I ask what the issue with a front panel door is?  The Fractal Design Define R5 is a great case and is available with a large window.  All of the buttons and ports are on the top of the case so realistically the only time you'll ever need the door (which is decently made, not some cheap bit of plastic) is to access your optical drive (if you even still USE one! )You most certainly may ask. My first case had a panel door and i wasn't a fan of it. But i suppose that if a case can meet all my needs, and has an unintrusive door. I will deffinately consider it. Quote from: camerongray on JANUARY 27, 2016, 05:07:28 PM

May I ask what the issue with a front panel door is?  The Fractal Design Define R5 is a great case and is available with a large window.  All of the buttons and ports are on the top of the case so realistically the only time you'll ever need the door (which is decently made, not some cheap bit of plastic) is to access your optical drive (if you even still use one! )

• Saw thread requesting case recommendations
• Prepared to post recommendation for Fractal R5
• Saw it had already been done
• Posted this useless list

I recently purchased a Polaroid 9 inch tablet. I do have a couple of questions.


1) How to copy and paste from one site to another?

2) How to print?

3) How would I be able to save videos from youtube or dailymotion? Also what would I have to purchase so I could do that?


Now I dont know how to do these things because there were no directions telling how to do these things. Also, dumb it down for me because I'm not Computer savvy by any means.I have been working with Personal Computers for almost 39 years. So by now, I should be computer savoy.  You would think. But tablets have me over a stump. It is hard to fin the information you want.

Short answer. Find out how to get third party apps onto your table.  It is the apps that make a tablet easy to use. One app I like is DropBox. It is on of many cloud services that can be used to exchange data from disparate devices. I can put downloads into my DropBox and then get into it from my iPhone, my Amazon fire tablet and my RCA tablet.
It would seen to be faster using a direct cable. But width cable? Each device is different. They are all black  - and the connectors look almost the same. But they are not.

In My opinion, if the vendor gave  you a option for a RETURN or exchange, GO back and find one you like better.

Here is a list of the most popular tablets.
http://www.tabletpcreview.com/best_tablet_pc/
Notice the Apple,  Asus , HP,  Lenovo and Samsung are among the leaders. These top brands have forums and support groups that can help you.

One of the tablets I got was a brand not well  supported. So from now on I am looking for companies that already have a support system in place.
If you can not return the table, you might repackage it and give it as a gift to a youngster.
That is my frank advice.  You know you still have another active account on this site, yes?Is this the tablet you have?  http://www.polaroid.com/products/9-inch-tablet-A900X

What you left out of your first post is what OS your tablet is running, which, provided my link above is the correct tablet, we now know is Android 5.1.  Need to know what OS the tablet uses in order to answer your questions.

Here's a beginner's tutorial that may help you get started with using the Android OS: http://www.howtogeek.com/163624/welcome-to-android-a-beginners-guide-to-getting-started-with-android/.  It is phone based but tablets work the same way.

For your first question about cut and paste, see the last section of the tutorial regarding touch gestures.  For cut and paste you need to use what's referred to as a "long press".

Regarding printing, that isn't very clear cut.  Some printer mfrs provide apps you can get from Google Play (Android app store) that allow you to print from an Android device to their printer, maybe your printer's mfr has such an app.  There is another print method called Google Cloud print which will work with pretty much any printer but it is a little more involved in getting setup.  https://www.google.com/cloudprint/learn/

For your last question, do a search in the Play store for video downloader.  I did that and got a bunch of hits.

BTW, you can ACCESS the Google Play store from your PC here: https://play.google.com/store.  I find it much easier to search for apps and read about them on my PC than the small screen of a phone or tablet.  Once you find an app you can click on install and it will install it on your tablet.Good legwork there Strollin'... Quote from: Allan on November 18, 2015, 03:55:53 PM

You know you still have another active account on this site, yes?

Is this the tablet you have?  http://www.polaroid.com/products/9-inch-tablet-A900X

What you left out of your first post is what OS your tablet is running, which, provided my link above is the correct tablet, we now know is Android 5.1.  Need to know what OS the tablet uses in order to answer your questions.

Here's a beginner's tutorial that may help you get started with using the Android OS: http://www.howtogeek.com/163624/welcome-to-android-a-beginners-guide-to-getting-started-with-android/.  It is phone based but tablets work the same way.

For your first question about cut and paste, see the last section of the tutorial regarding touch gestures.  For cut and paste you need to use what's referred to as a "long press".

Regarding printing, that isn't very clear cut.  Some printer mfrs provide apps you can get from Google Play (Android app store) that allow you to print from an Android device to their printer, maybe your printer's mfr has such an app.  There is another print method called Google Cloud print which will work with pretty much any printer but it is a little more involved in getting setup.  https://www.google.com/cloudprint/learn/

For your last question, do a search in the Play store for video downloader.  I did that and got a bunch of hits.

BTW, you can access the Google Play store from your PC here: https://play.google.com/store.  I find it much easier to search for apps and read about them on my PC than the small screen of a phone or tablet.  Once you find an app you can click on install and it will install it on your tablet.

So I just upgraded from an AMD HD 7770 to an AMD r9 280x.  I put it into the PSI 3.0 Express slot on my desktop and then used a DVI to plug it into my monitor...and nothing.  I then tried plugging the monitor directly into the motherboard and it works fine.  I attempted to turn off the on-BOARD graphics in the device manager but that did not work either; The GPU is not listing in the device manager.  I have re-seated the card multiple times to make sure that it is in securely.  It is plugged with a six-pin connector. 

I don't think it is a problem with the GPU itself as when I boot the computer the lights on the GPU turn on, its just that nothing comes up on the monitor.  The button stays orange and does not turn to blue at all.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
Is this video card brand new that your working with or one you bought used? It might be a bad video card as for if the video card was good I would expect there to be an entry in the device manager. If it were a power supply issue I would think that the system wouldnt boot due to the additional power demands. One last thing to try is to install the driver with this card installed and see if that helps although Im pretty sure that if its not listed in device manager that its probably not going to work. You could check in your bios just to make sure nothing strange is SET to only allow on board vs PCIE. I dont believe this to be the CASE because you had a video card in that slot prior and so this is probably not it but worth verifying. If all else fails you could always return the video card for a replacement if its a new card.I tried installing the amd drivers and it did not work.  I think it probably is something with the PCIe itself b/c I tried re-installing my old card with the old drivers and it still did not work.  I went into the BIOS and changed "INIT Display First" to PCIe.  This obviously wan't a good idea b/c the screen stopped working all together and I had to pull the battery out to reset the BIOS.I agree it sounds like it may be a bad card. You wouldn't need to install drivers for the monitor to work. It might also be a bad dvi cable, by the way.If you've been muckin around in the BIOS i'd recommend a cold boot and select default BIOS settings...before you go BLAMING the hardware...just sayin.SOLVED: turns out the PCIe cable was faulty, I tried using one of the other ones and it works perfectly now.  Thanks for all the assistance!

I have been using my laptop computer for the 2 years and i have had no probems with it. But now and its been like this for 1 month the computer makes a noise. As i understand its caused by fans. The noise starts, keeps on for 15 sec then stops for 15 sec, then comes again for 15 sec, then stops again, and its like this over and over again, all the time. The noise is quite annoying, if it was permanant like on old laptops it wouldnt maybe even be as bad as its now What could i do to make this noise not appear?

Maybe i could screw out the screws and take the bottom part of it apart, but can i do this with a laptop. Im such a not GOOD user that i dont know if may do that with a laptop

If anybody can give any hints me what to do i would be very grateful

If you wouldn't know what you are doing once you're INSIDE it's best to just leave that alone.

It could be a FAN, or  aheat sensor. WHat brand and is it still under warranty?Check out this excellent guide.
Kudos to Chaz. Quote

If you wouldn't know what you are doing once you're inside it's best to just leave that alone.

It could be a fan, or  aheat sensor. WHat brand and is it still under warranty?

Check out this excellent guide.
Kudos to Chaz.

I don't think it's an English word, I believe the NBR forums are American-based.
So if anything, it's an obscure American word lol.
Let us know how it goes on.

Please forgive me. I am a true rookie when it comes to real computer issues.
Simply put,  I took my HP Pavilion a820n with a Pentium 4 processor 3.2 Ghz to a local computer shop. They determined my problem was the mother board. They replaced it and I have had nothing but problems. A friend walked my throught some things and I have peiced together that I now have a PC Chip A31G motherboard with a Mobile AMD Athlon XP-M processor.
I was supposed to have a comparable mother board and CPU installed. Did I get it?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.Well, I would certainly take it back until they PRODUCE a workable machine.

PC Chips is the low end of the motherboard food chain, and it sounds like you got an equally low end chip to replace a P4 3.2 gig. We don't KNOW what speed you got, but if you can run Everest Home and make a report you will find out.

http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.htmlThe XP-M is a pretty decent chip.
Very overclockable too.
As GX1 said, it does depend what speed it is.
An Everest report would help us determine whether it is comparable or not.The word "mobile" is confusing me. Doesn't that mean it's for a laptop? :-?Yes, but it can just as easily be used in a desktop.O.K. I ran Everest. It clocks the CPU speed as 1599.75 MHz. FSB is 199.97 MHz. The box for the board and the specs online say it has a FSB of 800 MHz but the manual says 400.  Now Everest says 200.
Correct me if I'm wrong but it looks like I got stuck with about half the computer I used to have.
BTW, when I check windows task manager the CPU usage is CONSTANTLY spikeing to 100%. I THINK the processor is one issue, the moherboard is a bigger one and there are probably others.Thanks for all of your help. I think I'm gonna back up my hard drive externally and take this thing back. I'm figuring I'll just amke them take back their trash board and processor and I'll take the machine and old mother board to an "authorized HP service center". I figure at least they can get and (hopefully) properly install the right stuff.
Thanks again for all of your help Calum and GX1_Man.It's definitely slower than your old one.
Take it back and get a new one.
As for whatever assistance I could PROVIDE . . . happy to help.

So I bought my Dell Inspiron 600M laptop back in 2004/2005.. and I wasn't aware of centrino/wireless tech.  After buying my laptop I found out that it did not come with any wireless adapters.  My computer has a Pentium M processor (without centrino) and I just recently bought the INTEL pro/wireless 3945ABG minipci network connection, but I don't know how to install it.  Do I need anything else?.. or is the chip not even compatible with my laptop?  I'm pretty SURE the Inspirion 600 laptop isn't compatiable with that wireless card. The 3945ABG works on most Dells 1 year old or NEWER. Can I ask where you PURCHASED the card?

Gizmo73

If you solve this the CIA will probably hire you as their main IT expert. GET ready for an ESSAY, cause this will take a lot of reading, actually it won't.

Basically I had a budget so I bought all my parts except RAM and PSU used.

My specs are :

• GPU - GTX 670 Direct CU II
• CPU - I5-2500K no OC
• POWER SUPPLU - Seasonic S12 II 620W
• MOTHERBOARD - ASUS P8Z77 V LE PLUS
• RAM - HYPERX 4X2GB DDR3 RAM


So I built the PC, started having issues later, lots'a people blamed lots'a different parts, ended up flashing bios, problem almost solved, no more BSOD's, almost no more freezes. ( Occasional freeze when the PC boots and I don't use it for 2-5 minutes )
Now I got an HYPER 212 cooler, while installing it I placed the motherboard on my metal case, it slid around, touched metal, but in the end no capacitors were harmed ( I hope )
Every time I play any game, in 10-20 minutes the computer will hard freeze and won't react to my restart button, so it will be punished with me holding the power button down until the computer suffocates. When I want to turn it back on, it refuses to boot, just turns on the fans and stays there with no video or beeping, 10-20 seconds later it turns off, clearly cause it doesn't like me suffocating it. I wait around 1-2 minutes and it turns back on properly, with no more anger towards me. It boots, and if I don't play games it doesn't crash.
It also does a good job with no overheating out of rage on me. GPU and CPU temperature don't exceed 65C in both games and stress tests.
One thing I noted is that when it refused to boot, I took off the side panel, pressed the MemOK! button which loads fail-safe defaults if memory errors are doing something bad, in which case the computer forgot how to boot. I pressed it and it booted, never tried it again cause not playing any more games.

Stuff I tried :

• BurnInTest
• Prime95
• Bobby pin PSU thing
• Removing all parts and putting them back together ( not one by one ) twice.
• Re-applying thermal paste and re-seating the heat-sink thrice.
• Updating bios

Stuff I didn't yet try :

• Memtest86
• ( Whatever is left to try )


Also didn't try overclocking, which is the exact reason I bought the cooler for.

I don't know what else to tell you, unless you ask for information.

Forgot to add that it used to freeze on booting, and on windows screen or desktop the first couple of times I booted, from then it's just games.

You have not said anything about the Hard Drive.
Hard drives cause more trouble than anything else. Because that can be temperamental
Go borrow a good, modest hard drive and install your system on it. Don't use the other drive. Most of the time that solves boot up issues.
Quote

I placed the motherboard on my metal case, it slid around, touched metal, but in the end no capacitors were harmed ( I hope )

You have not said anything about the Hard Drive.
Hard drives cause more trouble than anything else. Because that can be temperamental
Go borrow a good, modest hard drive and install your system on it. Don't use the other drive. Most of the time that solves boot up issues.

Don't have anyone to borrow it from, I can do a SMART test though

very long and extensive real world experience has shown hard drives fail in ways you can not imagine. The SMART is not even doing 50%. The false positives and false negatives are about evenly divided. SMART has proven to be 50% worthless. You can do the same by flipping coin.
The test of a hard drive  is replace it with a new one.
Buy a new hard drive. The alternative is a new motherboard.

very long and extensive real world experience has shown hard drives fail in ways you can not imagine. The SMART is not even doing 50%. The false positives and false negatives are about evenly divided. SMART has proven to be 50% worthless. You can do the same by flipping coin.
The test of a hard drive  is replace it with a new one.
Buy a new hard drive. The alternative is a new motherboard.

...the operating system hard drive?

Yes. When the system  HDD does its dirty tricks the OS goes wild and unpredictable.
If the OS and the boot manager on are separate drives, it is hard to know what is going on when the system does a crash.

Take a spare HDD and do the full install from a DVD and install the chip set drivers.

An yes, a second D\HDD failing might bring down the system. It happens. Ofcourse it is rare. But then that's like declaring  accidents are rare.

Hi

I would suspect on a used motherboard that was that new that it has either had static damage which is impossible to find.

Or that when the board has been handled the chip set heat sink has come off and not reattached correctly. That heat sink should get warm if there is any conduction from the chip set.

Also if you shorted the motherboard to the case  there maybe incorrect data in the cmos . Have you reset the cmos  to factory defaults