Explore topic-wise InterviewSolutions in .

I think I know what the deal is but would like someone to confirm it. As of 2 days ago, everytime I boot my COMPUTER I get the initial boot screen and then it jumps into Bios.The only thing recognized in the Standard CMOS Features is the dvd drive.I attached a different HD that I know works and CMOS recognizes it but when I try to boot up the computer, it goes into Bios. I've was going to format the old HD and re-install Win XP but even when I change the first boot to dvd drive, the computer still boots into BIOS.
I think my motherboard's IDE ports are fried. Any suggestions? Thanks for any help.

Pentium 4, Win XP, 512 RAM, 80 Gig IDEIf your IDE ports were fried it wouldn't see the optical drive either....

How is the HDD jumpered; which cable is it on and which position on the cable is it at ? ?

These are important questions so try to answer them all...Sorry, I gave you the wrong info as was given to me.The HARD drive in question is a Seagate serial ATA. It comes up on the boot screen as CHANNEL 2 M and even clicks like it's trying to boot up but instead of booting the Cmos Features window shows up. The channels appear as follows;
IDE Channel 0 Master  dvdrw ide
IDE Channel 0 Slave    none
IDE Channel 1 Master   none
IDE Channel 1 Slave    none
IDE Channel 2 Master
IDE Channel 2 Slave
I tried switching from the chan 2 serial port to chan 3 - same problem.
I've tried changing the primary boot to the optical so I could reinstall WInXP but when the computer reboots it goes back to Cmos Features window. Could it be bad connectors?
Thanks for any helpI CHANGED out the keyboard last night thinking maybe I had a bad delete key and that's why it would go directly to CMOS Features. Sure enough, the !!*!*** thing booted right up! Always thinking it's the big stuff and sometimes it's just the little stuff! Quote

I changed out the keyboard last night thinking maybe I had a bad delete key and that's why it would go directly to CMOS Features. Sure enough, the !!*!*** thing booted right up! Always thinking it's the big stuff and sometimes it's just the little stuff!

Hello friends,
 I've quite an old computer, but it still works, it's around 8-7 YEARS old. I have this ventilator, that was extremely loud, barely moving and was useless, can't play games, cause when the card overheats my screen says "no video input, entering sleeping MODE" (at LEAST I believe that). So I took it out, disassembled it, cleaned it, looked at some videos and changed the OIL thing, but I'm an AMATEUR, and I accidentally pulled out a cord out of the ventilator, I've put it back it, but it doesn't work anymore, is there any way to fix it? If I need a new one (which is probably the best course of action) where can I get 1? Do I need an exactly the same one? Closely the same or something? Or do I need a new card like that in the picture? Thank you for replying if you do.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]As far as cooling for video card you could add a slot fan next to video card and add tape between the card and slot fan to suck cool air past the heatsink of the video card - or - you can add a fan like I have done before where you blow air across a passive heatsink to cool the heatsink which then cools the GPU. I have gotten by with mounting a 80 mm fan blowing across the video card. Or you can find a exact replacement to the ventilator you have.

update: Just found this which would work sweet side by side the card on the heatsink side of that card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835119097&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-VGA+Cooling-_-N82E16835119097&gclid=CImJleP2-NACFYKPswodxSsK9g&gclsrc=aw.dsThanks for your reply, I think I should try it, fortunately I've found someone who will sell it, but even with it working it still does overheat, this should be perfect. However, I'm quite unknown in this area, could you link me to any videos or instructions where I might find how to add the second cooler?Hard to tell for sure from the pics but it looks to me like an AGP vid card...which although getting hard to find are still available...
If you check your MBoard model it will tell you if i'm correct.
So worst case scenario would be a replacement...From the photo that looks like a 9500GT - Even the cheapest, new GPU would outperform it so I'd be inclined to just replace the card.

I have such a time keeping my printer in ink. No I have wasted time and money and got the wrong ink. At this point I am thinking I should have just bought another printer and forget about buying the replacement ink.

So, here is my question: Shall I just buy a new printer at Walmart?
They have a new HP model that sells for $20. But a full set of ink for my current printer is $30.

Yeah, it sounds like a joke. But I am really thinking about it.
Even as I type this, I get a pop-up thing from the printer. 


[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Yes.This is not a first for this... HOWEVER usually the starter inks they give you are lesser capacity so instead of getting 500 pages you only get 250 pages printed etc so its usually not cheaper for price per page printed. If inks that print 500 pages cost $30 and a new printer that prints 250 pages is $20, then your actually PAYING $10 more to print 500 pages.  They get you coming and going! 

Their business model is to hook you into their printer to make up for the reduced cost inkjet in selling you the inks later so it is against their model to buy printers to toss them away when the ink is used up. Additionally last time I went to get rid of a printer the dump was charging fees to get rid of electronic waste so you have that cost too unless you can find someone who wants a free new printer only used once with no ink.

I too look for ways to save money and have even bought stuff to break it to get guts from it cheaper than making/buying parts to build projects etc. For example I needed circuitry to control daily triggers like a time lock, and so I got an alarm clock for $15 that had a LED lit up for each day of the week in which week days were green and weekends red. I opened it up and removed the LEDs and wired up a ribbon cable from the LEDs to my board with optoisolators to drive the optoisolators and drove relays off of the optoisolators using the LEDs drivers from the alarm clock. Project cost me $40 in parts to make and 2 hours time to solder up my prototype relay control board driven off alarm clock. It would have cost me more time and money if I built it from scratch and hey it came with a FM radio built in too.  . It was for an IT application that I dont wish to give away because there is nothing out there like it and dont want the idea ripped off if I decide to run with it some day to make some money. 

Needed a MicroSD Card for additional storage capacity for my new tablet and pulled one from a TracPhone that I bought for $5 to add the 4GB MicroSD card to my android tablet so I can have more storage. Phone will work also without the extra 4GB MicroSD in it. 

Needed night light bulbs for my daughter when she was younger and she was scared of the dark. Bought a string of 25 MEDIUM size clear christmas lights, same 4 watt bulbs that night lights need. I got 25 bulbs for $6 where as if I bought the bulbs in a pack it would be 2 bulbs for $2.49.  Christmas lights also generally are cheaper to buy new sets than it is to buy replacement bulbs. I have a box of the 1 light goes out they all go out type to pull bulbs from to make working sets. Pull all the bulbs from a string of them PUT then in a zip lock baggy for spare bulbs and toss out the tangled set WIRING after first also removing that tiny fuse from the plug in case I need one of those too. Replacement miniature bulbs I have seen in a 10 pack for $1.96 at walmart. You can get a string of 35 for $1.96, pull the bulbs and toss the wiring and have 25 more bulbs plus maybe the plastic plug body for bulb is the same to avoid having to put the 2 bulb wires through.

Needed another USB charger for my car when one i had broke. USB charger cigarette lighter type was $12.96 at walmart. I saw a tracphone for $9.96 and it was same model as my phone. Got spare phone with battery and extra 4GB MicroSD Card which I used for extra storage in my digital camera that had internal memory and a microSD card slot that was empty and both extra wall charger and cigarette lighter type charger and $3.00 cheaper. 

I can go on and on about stuff I bought that was to save money and break or disassemble or split and use parts for multiple needs tossing out whatever isnt needed. My wifes car also by the way her tail light socket seal leaked and ruined the contacts. Before getting rid of my 1997 Mazda 626 that i got my moneys worth out of running it into the ground I pulled the fuses, bulbs, and tail light bulb sockets to have a couple spares. Was able to add the Mazda socket to a chrysler tail light and wire it up. Still working 3 years later, but if bulb burns out she needs a tail light bulb for a 1997 Mazda 626 and not a 2006 PT Cruiser.

I've got very little experience with anything bluetooth so: I bought a Soundlogic XT Bluetooth Shower Speaker and it paired with my PC fine. But the speaker does not show up as an option in my audio control panel. How do I silence my laptop speakers while enabling the bluetooth speaker. Laptop is HP2000-299WM and did not have bluetooth from the factory. I'm using a Insignia Bluetooth 4.0 USB Adapter - Model: NS-PCY5BMA
That device is here:
https://www.insigniaproducts.com/pdp/NS-PCY5BMA/5655065
I have an adapter that looks like that, but MADE by another company.

The speakers on your laptop or desktop should have a volume control independent of the Bluetooth volume. Or, you can insert a 3.5 mm plug into the hold and cut off the speakers.

User manual:
https://files.bbystatic.com/IpOGPLyJi%2Fc8XVdfnfAN%2FQ%3D%3D
The manual should answer your questions.
Download the manual and use a PDF reader to search for specific topics.
Quote

My headset or speakers are not playing sound after pairing.
• Make sure that Windows automatically downloaded the drivers to install your Bluetooth adapter or that you
installed the software from the included installation CD.
You can also download drivers from the Insignia website.
1 Go to www.insigniaproducts.com, then click Support & Service.
2 Enter your model number in the box under Manual, Firmware, Drivers & Product Information, then click .
3 Click the Driver link, then follow the online installation instrucftions.
• The computer’s default speakers may be overriding your headset or speakers. In the Control Panel, go into the
sound settings and select your headset or speakers as the default speaker.
• Turn up the volume on your computer or paired device

I'm trying to make a PC but I don't know what's the best parts with, I'm making a PC that is not centered for gaming but can at least handle some games, I don't have a starting budget which sounds really bad but I was just hoping if you guys can advice me some parts that are not that EXPENSIVE but still reliable.  If you are really new to  Do It Your self, you should start by doing an update on a USED computer. Good brand NAME used computers are with a good  warranty for a fraction of the new cost.  Most, maybe all, have really wimpy graphics. Getting a good graphics card can do a lot to improve the visual PERFORMANCE of a stock computer.

Notice  most low-cast PCs from the big names use only the built-in graphics.  The built-in graphics is always wimpy. 

So I would say look around for a good used computer that does not have a good graphics card. Then upgrade it to a good graphic card. Good used PCIe video cards sell for about $20 on eBay.

In other words, pick a project withing you abilities and experience and then move on. Otherwise if you take on something too hard, you will become very faint of heart. You don't want that to HAPPEN.

After lurking for good PC parts, this is the parts that I think is good, If you guys have any recommendations/advice for better parts or complaints please tell me.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]You selected the  ASUS A68HM-K.
Here is a good review.
http://motherboards.specout.com/l/4998/ASUS-A68HM-K
If this is your first home build, take it a step at a time. You can stat with just the built in video and upgrade later. Likewise with storage. Star wit ha plain hard drive and upgrade later. Having a spare hard drive is a good idea.
Geek...the link is worthless...

You are scrimping on important components...either revise your budget...or do some more research.

Before you buy another phone, check it for  4 G LTE ability.
"But I don't care, it is just for talking", you say.
Wrong. In some placers you might not get reception if you phone is not up to the new standard of 4 G LTE.
Here is an article by Verizon. Other carriers are going the same route. They FAVOR the new 4 G LTE over the older service types.
What is 4G LTE and Why it Matters.
Quote

Being the fastest network available means download speeds four to five times faster than 3G networks, which rivals some home broadband connections. The real hook, though, is the fact that consumers don’t have to be at home to appreciate these speeds. Consumers can access the internet wherever there is coverage with any 4G-enabled device, including smartphones, tablets and mobile hotspots

The Telenet Group network currently uses a frequency of 1800 MHz. Therefore, make sure that your device also supports this frequency - especially if you want to buy your device abroad. You will find the frequencies of your device under device specifications, in the manual or on the manufacturer's website.

. Buying an expensive phone and later on find out that it does not support the latest technologies could be very disappointing. But assuming that you have already bought a phone, how would you know if your phone is 4G enabled? This question often crops up in the mind of mobile phone users. Nowadays, a lot of people want to upgrade their mobile Internet connection from 3G to 4G. But to enjoy the speed of 4G on your mobile phone, you must have a handset that supports 4G networks.

Hi,

I've got GT780dx ( burned 570M ). I just replaced card, whit gtx675m.(AFAIK it should be the same thing as 580M)
Now, I know some people made it working and its showing GT783 in their BIOS.
I GET laptop restarting more often when is plugged in and sometimes on battery, whit Nvidia driver installed , suddenly, no bsod, screen goes blank and restart
If I delete the driver the PROBLEM goes away. New video card is DELL gtx675m
I have tried:
MSI GTX675M vBios
Clevo GTX675M vBios
Dell GTX675M vBios
Lowering down GPU clock
MSI GTX580M vBios (whit modded driver)
MSI GTX570M vBios (whit modded driver)
Installing win 10 x64
And I also bought a new charger whit 11A .
I changed Thermal paste.
MSI nvidia driver and dell nvidia driver
Installing Win 7 x64
DIfferent HDDs, SSD
Disabling/Enabling CPU features in BIOS
Also Bought an Modified BIOS from MSI forum, I tought it was a compatibilty issue (Dell GPU & MSI MOBO) , but no success, now I have all the things unlocked in BIOS.
I locked some CPU cores, no success.
I have done 2 memtests, not problem, "Pass Complete , no errors , press ESC to exit."

Here is an IntelBurnTest:
https://postimg.org/image/ru8ggbw1p/
https://postimg.org/image/czjv25mgt/

Here I have a video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E1-fa6LHTlU&t=185s

I removed all thermal compund(for memory) on video card heatsink, same problem

burned gtx570 Chip:
https://s12.postimg.org/f8fb72wcd/IMG_20161117_220600.jpg

Any ideeas ?


CristianYou need the drivers from the laptop manuf...I tryed bouth:

"MSI nvidia driver and dell nvidia driver"Google search:
GT780dx RANDOMLY restarts after installing video driver

Brings up dozens, maybe hundreds of posts that sound like yours.

Here is what the invisible Guru says:
Get rid of it.

Reference:
http://www.laptopmag.com/articles/msi-brand-rating
Quote

MSI's lineup of mostly gaming laptops is packed with new and intriguing features, such as mechanical keyboards and eye-tracking sensors. We love the performance, design and innovation of the company's PRODUCTS. The brand places fifth  — but that's not because of any flaw in its laptops but rather the company's mediocre tech support, weak warranty and very limited selection.

I found a USB mouse in the garbage it the optical type when you wiggle on the wire where it goes into the mouse you can actually make it work this means the wire is broke at this point what I am wondering is how MANY wires are used from the outside the cable seems to have a seam down the middle indicating two wires hard part will be getting it hooked up correctly.The USB interface requires 4 wires. Three might also be a fifth wire as a shield.
Most often wire failure is in the area right next to the mouse, That is  the point if high stress.
Unless you like to work with small things, it is best to just replace the mouse.
Here is a video. (Skip the Ad.)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=krk74V9kOR0
Note that it takes him 10 min. to fix the cable.
Are you planning on rescuing this mouse ? ?

I have 3 older ones i can ship you...No charge...I cut the grommet on one side half way thru slide it back cut cable pulled enameled wires out TWISTED together soldiered cut 1" ELECTRICAL tape in half one piece on one side of wire  other piece on other side of wire cut grommet still fits tight enough to keep wire from sliding out put all the electrical taped ends in one place put cover on works great TIME 30 minutes.

[attachment DELETED by admin to conserve space]If it takes you 30 min.
And if the min. wage is $10.
You can pay yourself just  $5
 

I have this problem with my 15" LCD AL1511 Monitor. I think that the problem can be fixed by buying a larger size but i want to find an alternative. Whenever i am playing full screen game (high graphic or not...i know the comp isn't the problem) the monitor at some point(10 mins, one hour etc) just goes black and its shows a box saying "No Signal" . The only option then is rebooting my comp.
Sometimes i can fix this by changing the resolution. This is a real prob because there are LOTS of games i haven't been able to play due to this. Like right now..i just d/l Halo for PC..and it gets that problems. Oh and the problem doesn't always happen on full screen games only sometimes....but always on the same games

New: i got also an 17" LCD Pro-view and it seems way BETTER...it has like 10 types of resolutions unlike my other one that has 3..only.

Please NOTE : my computer can handle these games perfectly(no lag or anything...plus it also happens in a 39mb game and on ...Maplestory...lol) So i doubt my Alienware is the problem
Help for any of these would be perfect. Any help is greatly appreciated.
      
Edit/Delete MessageHi
There are only 4 options I can think of that might cause this.
Try them in this order:

1. Your power settings in XP might be turning off your monitor, unlikely because you are using the PC but worth checking anyway.
Look in control panel > Power Options, look at the monitor option, select turn off monitor, set it to 'never'.

2. Your video card or PC could be overheating, take the side off your PC, (as long as this will not void warranty) check all fans are running.
Run you PC for a while with the case open to increase airflow for a while.

3. Faulty Monitor        <---- Do you have access to another you can try?
4. Faulty Video card.  <---- Do you have access to another you can try?Well idk i doubt it's any of those but thnks. I have no way of tryin out a DIFFRENT vid card but i tried all the other before. IVE had this problem since i got the computer....a YEAR ago. Also i played Anarchy online and this problem in only minutes....yet once i put the game in windowed mode the problem stoped. The problem always happen in fullscreen games(not in every game)

In WoW for example i just had to change the resolution inside the game and it worked. Thks for trying to help out though

I swapped all my stuff from my old pc case to my new one. I turned it on and PLUGGED in my keyboard, mouse, etc, but they weren't being recognized.The usb ports will CHARGE my phone but wont recognize my peripherals. In device Manager expand all USB ROOTS and hubs...rite clik all and select Delete/uninstall...
You will get a warning message...ignore it and reboot...
They will be re-installed automatically...I would do that but I cant get there because my keyboard and mouse dont workIn that case unplug ALL USB DEVICES and do 3 cold boots...
Then connect only keyboard and mouse...cold BOOT? Please do explainFull power down...wait 1 minute...powerup.UPDATE! I got it working. For some reason taking out one stick of RAM worked. Thanks for the help!

My disk drive keeps spiking to 100% but it's not MAKING any weird noises so I don't think it's dying and EVERYTHING i've searched up so far hasn't worked :CWhat tool is reporting hard drive spiking to 100%?  Have you gone to task manager and seen what was running when it spikes to 100%?What do you mean your hard drive is spiking to 100%? Either there is hd activity or not.

Is this a new installation? Is drive INDEXING enabled? How about background processes (AV SCANNING, optimization, etc)?

Hi,

I own a Y580-M772CMH 15.6FHD/i7-3610QM/8G/ notebook with Windows 7 and a few weeks ago I used Ccleaner to clean the registry. Like the dumb stupid person I am I did not pay attention to what it was "cleaning".

Next time I booted up my laptop it failed to start Windows and gave the following message:

Check cable connection!
PXE-M0F: Exiting Intel PXE ROM.
No bootable device — insert boot disk and press any key

So next time I pressed F2 while booting to see:

Boot Device Priority
Internal HDD: SAMSUNG MZMPC064HBDR-000L1
SATA HDD: ST1000LM024 HN-M101MBB
SATA ODD: Optiarc BD ROM BC-5550H
Network Boot: Atheros Boot Agent

To me it looked like I still had both disks working so I put in a Windows ISO before boot to see if I could repair. The System Recovery Options screen showed me no known existing OS on the device.

So I powered down and used One Key Recovery which told me when I clicked to restore to factory conditions that the partition layout has changed.

Finally I used a bootable Partition Wizard and that showed me this:



Note the negative used value at disk 1.
To my layman's eyes it seems like the SSD and HDD, that are normally combined by a Lenovo software Raid are now separate. And something I deleted with Ccleaner by accident caused it (PROBABLY).

Main thing is, I actually don't know what the problem is and so don't know how to proceed.
I'm afraid my data is lost to me, which isn't a terrible loss, but am I correct in assuming this?
I hope somebody here can explain and/or help.

Thank you in advance.Data is likely lost. ID install fresh the OS to the system and reinstall all software.

I would avoid use of CCleaner or other optimization tools unless its absolutely necessary. PC Doctor and all those registry fix tools are usually nothing but trouble. I am kind of surprised that CCleaner alone messed up your system this bad, but maybe it could have. I havent used CCleaner in years.

I had a system not boot after a registry fix years ago with Norton System Works 2003 which had a tool that would fix the registry. Well it fixed it so well that it killed Windows.    It was a TOTAL surprise and let down that SYMANTEC would sell such a piece of junk that would kill a Windows installation like that it put Windows XP Home into a bootloop.

Without details of the original RAID setup it's impossible to tell if your data is gone...or not.

Before you buy any new TV video streaming device, take a look at what you can do with a standard Roku dongle.
http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow/story/331464/18-hidden-roku-tricks-for-streaming-success

I bought the Roku 1 model for $39 about 2 years ago and love it, however I wish I bought the better model that had a RJ45 network connection vs wifi only which the Roku 1 is. I ended up having to add a separate wireless router for the roku as for the wireless bandwidth would get choked off and latent if other devices were using the wifi and consuming bandwidth. Added a $20 refurb router for the roku to connect to and this got rid of bandwidth issues. So my families portable devices are on one wireless network on a different channel than the roku that uses the router that is dedicated for it.

One feature I like is this: https://www.plex.tv/ so I can host my own content from my computer to my TV through the plex service.

One feature I wish they added to the roku was ability to edit to add URLs to add other channels that are free or add a simple browser to it so you can navigate to some free web stream to watch whatever from around the world. Before teh roku I USE to have a HTPC set up which was just a Pentium 4 2.8Ghz HT with a GeForce 6200 256MB AGP 8x video card and 1GB RAM with 40GB HDD. I had the HTPC connected to my flat screen tv over the VGA port and had PC speakers for sound. Ever since installing the roku, this HTPC got pulled out, but I do miss the ability to play anything I want which a HTPC was able to do.

I bought a chromecast device when they came out but didnt like that a computer had to be running playing/hosting the content. So the chromecast got tossed into a box of junk because once associated with your gmail account its non transferrable and junk so that was a waste of $35. If I need my computer to be running to put it onto my TV, I might as well have my laptop plugged directly to my TV over HDMI and not be consuming bandwidth casting to TV as well as internet traffic. So the chromecast was a disappointment.

The roku on the other hand can run as is stand alone and is used most of the time without the plex tv service. we have hulu, netflix, and a bunch of free stuff on it that we watch through free services that come bundled with the roku like www.crackle.com which I like for its selection of free movies and tv shows.From the PC Magazine article above, the only important weakness of the low-cost Roku is the infrared remote control.  The next step up uses a RF remote control.

Yes, the Roku likes to have lots of bandwidth on the local network. But now you can buy a WiFi extender, also called a AP, for a very reasonable price. It can provide another channel for other devices.
http://www.howtogeek.com/104469/how-to-extend-your-wi-fi-network-with-simple-access-points/

You can find a good simple AP for about $25 if you shop around.I was told the Roku will only stream to 2 TV's at a time...any clarification on this ? ?

Cutting the cord is 1 of my New Year's resolutions...If you want to watch the same thing on two tv's it can be done, but not 2 independent channels with 1 roku. The model I have at least doesnt support this which is the original Model 1. The model 1 had RCA or HDMI output as a choice, you have to pick one or the other. The HDMI output doesnt WORK on mine UNLESS you connect the HDMI cable and then add power to the roku, the default is over the RCA cables.As far as I'm aware,  there is a 1:1 ratio of Roku to TV since the Roku (at least the 5 Roku 3s I own) connects via HDMI cable to the TV.  One nice feature about the Roku remote is that it has a headphone jack built into it with a volume control that makes it nice to listen to the TV when others are trying to sleep.HDMI does not have a way to split the signal out to two TV sets.
DaveLembke explains that there is a model that has two outputs. Model 1.
Roku has a forum.
https://forums.roku.com/viewtopic.php?t=71584
Quote

Some things have already been mentioned about SPLITTERS and cables and such. Consider this, like Knuckle said: the cost of the various equipment to split a single Roku off to two TVs versus the cost of a second Roku (the Roku 1 is $50, cheaper if you find it on sale somewhere). Cables and splitters and such can get close to, or even surpass, that total.
Now, if you're looking at showing a single stream on multiple screens, like in a bar or to a church with an overflow room, or something similar, then your idea is the right way, ... But, if you're looking to save money by having a single Roku feed the living room and the bedroom, a second Roku might be a better option

HDMI does not have a way to split the signal out to two TV sets.

The title says it. Some Wi-Fi screen caster devices look like and work like the the Chrome Cast device.  On eBay you will find Chrome cast sling for almost $10 less than the regular retail price.

But  avoid the even  cheaper dongles if you want Netflix or Amazon videos.
The  low cost vendors have a disclaimer at the bottom of a LONG, long listing.
Here is one that does Netflix.
Quote

Anycast Chromecast Digital HDMI Streamer HD Media AIR Play TV Miracast Dongle

I bought a Chromecast when they first came out.  I used it a few times, didn't find it particularly useful, so it's buried in a box somewhere unused.

With the Chromecast,  ...
I found Chromecast to work best with a phone, wherein I would start a movie streaming via the phone and the phone then becomes the remote.  You can still use the phone to make calls, send texts or browse the internet.

Hi,

I am using a WD Elements 1042. I have had it for over a year and it is likely to be a few years old as I bought it second hand.

The hard drive works perfectly, however a few days ago it got damaged and the point on it which I connect the USB to has become faulty. As a result, I now have to wiggle it around to get it to power on.

The hard drive works perfectly once powered on with no glitches.

These are the questions which I have.

1. Will buying an external enclosure solve the problem?

2. Will a 2.5 inch external enclosure do the trick, will any brand be Ok? I was thinking of buying one of Ebay from China since it is much cheaper.

3. Is it Ok to use the external hard drive now? Its works fine when I wiggle it to power on?First thing I would do is pop the drive open and see what sort of hard drive you have inside, if it's a regular SATA hard drive then a third party enclosure of the correct size would certainly do the trick.  However, I have a WD external drive where the USB connector is soldered directly to the hard drive itself (i.e. there are no SATA connectors on the drive) - If you have one of these you are basically out of luck beyond soldering a new connector on which isn't going to be particularly easy!Thank you for your response. I am a novice when I comes to handling a PC and tech related stuff. Do you KNOW how I can open it safely. Also this is an older Hard drive. I believe from around 09-10. It does not EVEN say WD on it. It just says Elements 1042 when I plug in. It also does not use a Usb connector but rathr the signature WD one. I can't seem to find much info on that model, may help if you could upload some photos of it.Ok, here are two pictures.

https://postimg.org/image/sq986kxqp/

https://postimg.org/image/ihvssfoov/Cool, on those ones the base is just clipped on so you should be able to CAREFULLY pry it off taking care not to snap the casing to get to the drive inside.  The drive has a USB 3.0 port so is likely to be from 2011 onwards.I was talking to someone from Bleeping Computer who said it is likely to be soldered to the drivers PCB as it has a USB 3 port.  Do you think it will be worth it to repair if I take it to a PC repair shop?

Also, do you think the hard drive will last as is? It works well, I just have to wiggle to power on. In my view if you have to "wiggle" the connector to get it to come alive this is unreliable hardware. It could get wiggled or moved or suddenly get worse during a data transfer and then you may have corrupted data or a trashed file system.

Youtube video

How to Open a Western Digital Elements External Hard Drive Enclosure

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kCS8ui-6WZY

From the comments

QUOTE

I had the blinking light problem, drive not being recognized.  I opened the case (prior to seeing this video!) and removed the drive.  Only two screws need to be removed to detach the small circuit board - the ones that are closer to the middle of the drive.  Once that is done the drive can be easily inserted into an external drive dock such as the iDsonix iDD-U3102 2.5" / 3.5" SATA Docking Station (about $23).  Or it can be installed in a desktop computer.  The power supply/USB interface (the little green circuit board) seems to be a problem with this external drive.  If the drive is otherwise working, the data on the drive can be recovered in the manner suggested here.  It's much cheaper than sending it to a recovery lab!  Thanks for posting this video.

It does not even say WD on it.

One of your photos clearly shows the WD logo.

I have some phones and tablets that do not have replaceable batters.
So I was thinking about a homemade external  battery pack.
Here are a couple of videos: (Skip the Ads.)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouP9cvx3QcQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tg8L6vKX0ho
But after watching, I am thinking maybe not.
So, my question is: "Have you ever made a cheap DIY battery pack for y our phone or tablet?  Did it work good? Was it hard to do?

I really want to know.  Unless you REALLY know what you are doing, I would steer well clear of mucking about with Lithium ION batteries, if treated incorrectly they can be very dangerous.  If you need an external battery pack and the device can be powered from USB, just buy a premade USB POWER bank. Quote

I have some phones and tablets that do not have replaceable batters.
So I was thinking about a homemade external  battery pack.

Does BOINC run on devices without batteries?

Not currently. It will soon.

Hi,

I bought this hardrive offer yesterday. I thought this was a good offer at the time. However I reflected on it in the night and I started thinking it may be too good to be true. What do you think?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-2TB-Toshiba-Canvio-Basics-USB3-0-Portable-External-Hard-Disk-Drive-/262776113689?hash=item3d2ead4a19:g:LusAAOSw44BYXkVkIt may be a true offer. Other vendors on eBay also offer very  low cost external hard drives in a simple enclosure. Toshiba is a famous brand. It has a 3 year warranty.

I don't think you will have any problem with it.


Suspiciously cheap. It could be a flash in the pan scam where they get as many people as possible to buy into it and then get up and run with the money. For that price tag I could see a 500MB or 1TB maybe, but 2TB just seems fishy at that price. I'd be ready to make a claim with paypal or your CREDIT card on fraud on this one, but at this moment you need to give it time to see if it shows up. Given that its coming from china you might have to wait a month to get it or make a claim. I would check into how long of a window you have to make a claim on a purchase so that your not making a claim outside of say a 30 day window. I am not up on legalities and law, but have a strong feeling that you only have a limited period of time to make a claim and have that claim honored otherwise your the one taking the loss on a fraud purchase.

Not that long ago I found this article and found it very interesting: https://www.neowin.net/news/fake-chinese-500-gb-external-drive-is-one-clever-paperweight-literally

Here is another interesting scam... Drives bought and fakes of equal weight placed back into the boxes and returned for refund. The crooks then sold the drives on e-Commerce sites to make money. I guess they may have expected all failed drives to go back returned with no trail to the source of the fake drives.    https://www.clearusa.org/index.php/news/77-hard-drive-scamI wouldn't buy a bowling ball from eBay...
That's just me though... Quote

I wouldn't buy a bowling ball from eBay...
That's just me though...

I bought the fy212t, is it any DIFFERENT COMPARED to DS71?Ok guys I won't ask around Internet anymore there is absolutely no differences between 2 laptops. It's WEIRD though asus would release 2 exact same laptops with different model numbers. It's a HEAD scratcher. I called asus support and the rep told me only differences between 2 laptops are the location and the warranty that's it. The laptops are identical wow.

First I WANT to Thank all that help me with my printer problem(From Oct.24th post) After messing with the darn thing I finally figured out that where the USB CABLE connects to the printer bit the dust. Does anyone know if this can be fixed? ( It's a Epson CX5200) It still works as far as SCANNING, just can't get it to CONNECT with my computer. I took it over to a friends house and installed the software on his computer and it still wouldn't  work being hooked up to his computer. If not I would like your opinion on either the Epson RX620 or the Epson RX700, pro's and con's. I know Epson has had some bad talk, but I've used a Epson printer for years and have been quite pleased with them.
Thanks.
Unfortunately printers are getting to be like Bic lighters...when they run out of gas just throw em out.

Look up Tom's Hardware Guide on the web for hardware reviews. Pick your price range and go from there.

Hello,

First post here.

Win98SE
576MB ram
Acer 620U flatbed scanner    
USB ports built into motherboard.   Not 2.0.   Probably 1.1.


Has been working fine for YEARS.  Not used much.   Tried to use it TODAY, and got an error message.
Scanner is not found.   Please check if power is on and if cable is connected.

Did that.   Power was on.  Cable was still connected.

Even though I haven't had the problem with Windows eating drivers,  thought that maybe this was the first time for me.   Decided to download and install the newest driver.
Found it at:
http://members.driverguide.com/driver/detail.php?driverid=113589
Downloaded, and ran the setup program.     Appeared to go along normally.
It was a newer ver number than the old driver.

Still getting the same error message.  

No hardware additions/deletions/changes since last time scanner worked fine.
Same for software.   Maybe WinRar was installed since.    In other words, nothing that could be involved with USB ports.

Went to Device Manager.
Scanner appears under Imaging device.   Properties say it is working properly.
Under USB controlers->Root hub,  it appears there too,  under the Power tab.

Unplug the USB cable from it, and it disappears from both.   Plug it back in, wait a moment, and it reappears.

This is normal,  isn't it?
Please confirm.


What else....    oh...    
Went to  Control Panel->Scanners and CAMERAS.    It appears there.  
Disappears and reappears when usb cable is unplugged and re-plugged.
Again, I'm thinking all is normal so far.

But, when I click on Properties, there in Scanners and Cameras,   it takes a moment to open the Properties reporting window.
Under the General tab,  it says    Status   unavailable.
And the    Test Scanner or Camera  button is grayed out.

I'm thinking this is not normal.

I'm hoping my scanner is not dead too.    It lights up fine, when switched on.
Motors hum and whir, just like it always did.

What is my next step to figure this out?

If I had another computer handy, I would have tried it on that.   Do I have to find a friend that will let me install it on theirs?  
If so,  I'll try.   Please advise.

Other than that,  I'm hoping for other suggestions.


Let me know if you need more info, or if I left out something.

ThanksIs there any lint in the USB port of your computer??? Had one customer a while back that had dust bunnies in their USB ports from the air flow into the case, caused the USB device to act like this...

Also, have you swapped USB cables??? Just in case you have a bad cable...

Also, do you have a lot of devices on your systems USB port to pull down the power supply??? If your scanner communicates and is powered off of your USB port it could be a low voltage or amperage condition... ( If you have a USB Hub with power injection ) you can try to run the scaner through the power injected HUB...

Also had once where the lock on the bottom of the scaner was in the locked position causing the scanner to make noise like it is initializing, but it would disable the device as a protection to avoid trying to move the scan head while locked... If your scanner has a transportation lock to protect from G-Forces in transit from one location to the next, be sure it is unlocked... It wil do just as you describe if locked...

*** Also why the odd memory size 576MB ... Do you have a 512MB Stick and a 64MB Stick or Video sharing memory off of your 640MB???

Good Luck
Quote

Is there any lint in the USB port of your computer??? Had one customer a while back that had dust bunnies in their USB ports from the air flow into the case, caused the USB device to act like this...

Also, have you swapped USB cables??? Just in case you have a bad cable...

Also, do you have a lot of devices on your systems USB port to pull down the power supply???

If your scanner communicates and is powered off of your USB port it could be a low voltage or amperage condition... ( If you have a USB Hub with power injection ) you can try to run the scaner through the power injected HUB...

Also had once where the lock on the bottom of the scaner was in the locked position causing the scanner to make noise like it is initializing, but it would disable the device as a protection to avoid trying to move the scan head while locked... If your scanner has a transportation lock to protect from G-Forces in transit from one location to the next, be sure it is unlocked... It wil do just as you describe if locked...

*** Also why the odd memory size 576MB ... Do you have a 512MB Stick and a 64MB Stick or Video sharing memory off of your 640MB???

Good Luck

I have exactly the same scanner and it does the same thing to me for Win2k and WinXP.  I usually just reinstall MiraScan ver 4.03.  That seems to work ever time.  This only seems to happen when I don't use the scanner for a long time.  It's as if Windows "drops" the drivers if not used for a period of time.

Also had once where the lock on the bottom of the scaner was in the locked position causing the scanner to make noise like it is initializing, but it would disable the device as a protection to avoid trying to move the scan head while locked... If your scanner has a transportation lock to protect from G-Forces in transit from one location to the next, be sure it is unlocked... It wil do just as you describe if locked...

Hey all,

Before I  installed a dvd-rw drive into my 2nd bay, My Computer RECOGNIZED my card READERS (SD, Memory Stick, etc.) as drive "k". Now it has assigned the dvd-rw as drive "k" and refuses to read any flash memory that fits into the slots. I have tried the standard "search for new hardware" and whatnot. My drivers are up to date. Any ideas?

Thx in advance.

P4 2.8GHz
1.5G DDR
60G HDD
160G Exterior HDD (USB)
Nvidia GeForce 5200 PCI
XP Pro

p.s. For a while I was running a virtual drive with PowerIso software. I unstalled it awhile back, but I guess it's possible that it could have screwed something up that hasn't been fixed yet.Do you have all your IDE devices set up properly? Each IDE channel can support 2 devices using jumpers. One has to be MASTER and the other SLAVE. Hope this helps  .Try restarting your computer and then plugging the SECURE Digital card in the card reader slot once again. fffreak
I installed the dvd-rw as slave. I didn't think it really mattered which one I hooked it up to, but then again if I knew everything I wouldn't be here asking for help

pcdoc4christ
Tried that. Nothin.

Thanks for the replies so far.What is the master on the IDE with the DVD RW??? If there is no master you could try putting the DVD RW in CS (Cable Select) or just put it back in Master as default. It's not recommended that you put a device in Slave without a Master.I should have been more clear. My dvd-r is the master and the recently installed dvd-rw is the slave.List all your drives and how they are hooked up/jumpered.As per requested Right clickMy Computer and select Manage...find the CD/DVD Rom droves in the right hand pane and right click each one of them and choose "change drive letter and path" and assign them a letter.
Once done this should solve your card reader issue.

Tip. # 1 I reserve C: D: E: F: G: and H: for HDD partitions in a multi HDD setup so my 2 burners are M: and N:
This way if i add a drive and or partition i'm not changing all 4 drives each time my configuration changes...

Tip #2. It is also a good idea to use this method on thumb drives and external HDD's as well as XP seems to have a much easier time finding them ...

Good Luck.Got it, patio! Thanks to everyone for your help! You're Welcome ...stop by again.

Alright.

My brother's computer (an eMachines, from 2001) won't load Windows.  When I press the POWER button, it displays the eMachines logo, then goes to a black screen with a little white blinking cursor under where text would be.  Then it proceeds to the Windows loading screen, only to have the monitor read "No Power", and we START over at the logo screen.  I CAN start the computer in Safe Mode by manually turning it off while Windows is loading (pressing F8 doesn't work...) and turning it back on.  I've tried starting it with last KNOWN good configuration, and starting it normally.  No good.  System Restore doesn't make it work either.

eMachines  T1220/T1440
Intel Celeron 1.2 GHz
128 MB of RAM (we installed an extra 128 or 256 MODULE a few years back, but it didn't recognize it...)
20 GB HDD
Couldn't tell you anything else about it.  I'm told I may have to back up his files to disk, then use my restore disks.  I'm running a VIRUS scan through AVG in Safe Mode.  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks.

EDIT:

Running the AVG scan, I've found a Trojan:

Trojan horse Flooder.AKE

It's in WINLOGON.EXE... which doesn't sound good.  I think that's the part that loads Windows, if I'm not mistaken.  h4x.

SECOND EDIT:

My bad.  I found out it was  a bug in AVG which thought that winlogon.exe was infected.  Thanks.

http://www.adwarereport.com/mt/archives/000325.html

Ok..So for the last week I have been having the same problem with my computer. My computer has started to get jerky, Whenever i am on the internet, about every 10 seconds my mouse pointer will get jerky when i move it..or if im LISTENING to music, the song will start to get choppy..the same when im watching a VIDEO..Mainly I notice it the most when I play Counterstrike online..The game will run SMOOTH and then about every ten seconds it will stutter about 4 times..Ive done almost everything i can think of so far to find out whats wrong with my computer..Ive run various different Spyware,adware, and virus programs to fix it..but nothing has worked..Tonight I finally decided to do a full system recovery in hopes that it would fix the problem..but it did not..So i am forced to believe it is a problem with some hardware on the comp but i have no clue on how to find out which piece it could be..or if that is even the problem..IF YOU HAVE ANY CLUE ON WHATS WRONG PLEASE TELL ME!!!  :-? :-? :-? :-? :-?Anu clues on the components of the machine, how old, the make and WATTAGE of the power supply, etc?I would start off by taking out all the add-on cards and cleaning the
slot connectors with a clean pencil eraser rubbing gently to remove
tarnish buildup.

Download and run Memtest.

http://www.memtest86.com/


Download and run the hard drive diagnostic
test from your hard drive manufacturer.

http://pcsupport.about.com/od/diagnosticsoftware/tp/tophddiag.htm
ok..
it has

Hp Pavillion
AMD Athlon(tm) XP 2800+
2.08 Ghz
512 mb ram
Radeon 9800 PRO series
Samsung CD-R/RW SW-248F
Rosewill 250 watt power supply
Audigy 2 Sound Card
Custom Case

The computer itself is about 3 or 4 years old...but i have only had this problem for a week...When did you add the video card, and what's up with the power supply? How old? 250w seems rather underpowered.

What happened prior to the problem? What virus/spywar eprotection is being used? How much free hard drive space?

Try the online scanner at www.trendmicro.com just for grins as well.Oh well some buddies from my dads work said that it was overheating..and that i should clean it..so when i opened the case..there was dust everywhere..i gave it a clean and it worked..back to normal..appreciae all the help anyways =)That PSU is still suspect...expect to be purchasing one in the near future...

Don't buy the cheap ones ...you can see why.

I have been given an Advent QC7003 Desktop[Quad Core Intel CPU 8GB DDr2 Memory which was installed with Windows Vista 64Bit Home Premium.I have removed Vista and Installedl Linux Fedora 25 64bit LXDE.I have since had a problem with the PC going to Sleep,even though I have deactivated the SCREENSAVER?The PC will not wake with Keyboard or Mouse,and I have to restart the PC.Additionally there is no Reset Button on this PC,how do I use this Power Button to Restart the PC without switching it Off?
Any help comments appreciated..MichaelThere is a SOLUTION here for Fedora 17, it might still apply to 25.

http://forums.fedoraforum.org/showthread.php?t=280249You may also wanna review all the power SETTINGS in the BIOS...many thanks will try out suggestions  michaelThat solution did not WORK I resolved the issue by going into BIOS and changing the Power settings to stop the board from sleeping.Glad to hear you got it fixed. Also thanks for posting your solution so that OTHERS finding this information with similar issues may find it as a helpful solution to try.

Sandisk SSD Plus 480BG
1TB WD Blue HDD
Neos ATX Tower Black/Blue Window
Corsair Builder Series CX500 FIXED ATX PSU 500w
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 DirectX 12GV-N1060G1Gaming-6D 6GB 192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 X16 ATX VIDEO CARD
Intel Skylake core i5 6600k- 4 cores Standard 3.5Ghz/Turbo 3.9Ghz
Asus Z170-P Motherboard
Corsair Dominator 8GB DDR4 3000Mhz

Hi guys and girls, I am in need of some input. I installed the new screen still black.. External video works fine and windows and hard drive are fine. Then I ordered a new inverter. No luck black screen still. New lcd cable Installed it and still same problem.

So after that I was looking more under the keyboard and I found SNIPPED black and white wires! :-O What ?? Can anyone tell me what wires these are and if they are contributing to the black screen problem? They RUN on the backplate along the top area of where the screen goes.

Also there is a missing Card (WWAN FCM) Do I need it for the screen to work? What is it? Someone previous to me worked on this computer and clipped these wires. I have attached 4 PICS (not allowed to do more :/)

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]I see the wires cut there, but is the other end of the wires somewhere to reconnect them?


Quote

I installed the new screen still black.

Have you looked up a schematic page for the laptop ? ?

Yea no the money is my clients, only 100 bucks so far to replace screen. but these wires now hmm?

I'd say those laptops are worth $60 tops - I wouldn't spend much more money on it and see if you can return the screen you bought for it.

Hello geniuses,

I'm trying to use a MIDI Keyboard Casio PX-310 with a Sound Blaster 16 ISA no PnP, so that when I play the keyboard, the SB16 FM Synth plays. The system is Win98SE (that means that MS-DOS 7.11 is also an alternative).

I tried with MIDI-OX to some degree of success. If open MIDI-OX I get sound, it works but as soon as I play a single keyboard key I get this error on screen:
 
  An error has ocurred in your program. To keep working ANYWAY,
click Ignore and save your work in a NEW file. To quit this program, click Close.
 You will lose information you entered since your last Save.
 
If I click Close, I'll get a system freeze and this message:

Code: [Select]MIDIOX caused a general protection fault
in module MMCBK16.DLL at 0001:00000e8c.
Registers:
EAX=c189ce74 CS=2e87 EIP=00000e8c EFLGS=00000203
EBX=00000000 SS=320f ESP=00000fe4 EBP=00000fea
ECX=80000046 DS=016f ESI=0071f2dc FS=2fbf
EDX=80000004 ES=2e6f EDI=64101ba5 GS=0000
Bytes at CS:EIP:
ff 06 12 00 ff 76 fe 9a 66 0a 87 2e c9 ca 10 00 
Stack dump:
00000a12 00000246 003b0204 00000000 00000000 2e6f0000 00820000

If I keep playing, then the screen goes blank but it continues working anyway. Then I have to reset.
 
What could be the problem here? Would you recommend a different WAY to achieve my goal of playing the keyboard with the SB16 Synth? Perhaps using another software for Win98, or for MS-DOS?
 
Thank you.Assuming the correct jumpers are set on the card and its not a conflict with another device with same IRQ etc, are you sure the system your using is completely healthy such as the RAM is good. Do you have two RAM sticks in this system in which you can run it on just a single stick of RAM to make sure its not RAM related where a bad address is reached?Reference:
http://support.casio.com/storage/en/manual/pdf/EN/008/PX310_EN.pdf
The system is working pretty good. Since you mentioned it, I tried with a single RAM stick (128 MB) and the result is the same. I even CHECKED it with Memtest86.

I recently tried an older version of MIDI-OX, that is to say MIDI-OX 16. Now I don't get the system freeze, but many notes still hang. So I don't REALLY like MIDI-OX by now.

Do you know of any alternative for Windows 9x or simply for MS-DOS that achieves the same result? That's what I'm looking for.

ThanksSee Here...

Recently I started using 2 computers at the same time and noticed that if I switch the KVM from PC1 to PC2 and back I have no problems. But if I switch from PC1 to PC2 and say I am at PC2 for 30 minutes and then I switch back to PC1 I come back to the screen swelled and the mouse pointer is able to go off the screen into where you cant see to select things. Screen resolution I am using is 1280 x 1024 and when I come back to my screen its changed itself to 1024x768 and sometimes 640x480. I looked into nVidia and Windows 7 64-bit display properties to try to figure out how to shut off this feature where it appears that after a period of time the it polls the hardware and then I guess the KVM syncs up with the GT 730 on a lower resolution.

 However the weirdest part is that say it really went to 1024x768 or 640x480, my mouse pointer shouldnt be able to run off the side of the monitor into what is the difference of space between the area of 1280x1024 and either the 1024x768 or 640x480 to select [START] for example to reboot the computer which isnt in view when this happens. So the area for the mouse REMAINS at 1280x1024 but what is sent to monitor is 1024x768 or 640x480.

This has been quite annoying and I dont think its a issue with Windows 7 64-bit unless that one slipped in through a security update. This build has had other video cards used in it. I originally had a Radeon  HD5450 but upgraded to a GeForce GT 730. I have updated the GT 730 drivers with latest and it still happens.

I went into power settings to see if there was any display sleep mode enabled to where maybe thats why after a period of time it will so this, but all sleep features are shut off.

I eliminated the Linksys KVM by using a belkin KVM that I had and it still has this issue. The only way to get rid of this issue is to have a monitor connected directly to the video card without a KVM. So this seems to be a hardware or driver issue between the GeForce GT 730 and use of KVM switches where if you are away too long from that systems video being passed to a physical display it has this screen swell condition where the viewed area is smaller than the area of the monitor.

I havent swapped out the monitor yet as for I have serious doubts that the monitor itself is the cause. If its the monitor then it should resync and mouse controls stick to the area that is displayed. Additionally Windows display properties shows that the resolution is changing on its own to 1024x768 or 640x480 from 1280x1024.

Google shows lots of complaints for similar issues but no root cause as a fix for this. When this happens I have to move my mouse off the screen to where the [START] is to click and then part of the shutdown control window shows for me to select restart. Upon restart everything is back to normal. But if I use the other computer for too long with this first computer idle, right back to the same problem. What really stinks is when it decides to drop down to a viewable area that is 640x480. When this happens I have to use the New Task RUN in task manager to run the shutdown command from the dos shell window that I get up. I really dont like pressing the power button and forcing Windows to shutdown that way.

Additionally I thought that I could get a screenshot of the issue showing the display swelled outside of the viewable area on the monitor and the Print Screen key captures the desktop as if there is no display problem and as if its 1280x1024 when only the central 1024x768 or 640x480 area of that is viewable as well as Windows display properties shows it being 1024x768 or 640x480 yet the Print Screen is able to get the full 1280x1024. 

Connection type is VGA with the DVI and HDMI not in use on the GT 730. The GT 730 I am using is this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125675

Starting to feel the urge to remove that GT 730 and put the GTX 260 into it, but trying to run this computer with lesser power consumption and dont want to yank that out of my 1 of 2  8-core systems. I have a FX8300 3.3Ghz with the GTX 260 in it and a FX8350 4.0Ghz with GTX 750 ti and I only use those systems when what i am doing requires that kind of processing power in which using more watts of power comes along with that need. 

The 2 systems I am running right now with my KVM is the Sempron 3850 1.3Ghz Quadcore with Radeon HD 8280 with 2GB video memory which consumes 45 watts of power when run and the PC with the issue is the Athlon II x4 620 2.6Ghz Quadcore with GeForce GT 730 with 2GB video memory which runs at 120-160 watts when in use. My 8-core systems run at like 250-500 watts of power draw depending on what I am doing.

Since not sure if this is hardware or driver related I put it into hardware since its a hardware type of malfunction in relation to the KVM this video card and leaving the focus of the computer on the other computer too long to where there is a drop out of video somehow.

Does it exhibit this behaviour if the KVM is out of the loop ? ?
Quote

Does it exhibit this behaviour if the KVM is out of the loop ? ?

It's like tryin to get your car to make that noise when you take it to the shop...

As your mechanic i'm still gonna have to bill you for diagnosis....

In this article, I’m going to cover three of the best applications available that will let you use two computers with a single mouse and keyboard, without very much hassle at all. That requirement is important because it actually forced me to shy away from reviewing Synergy, after I spent nearly an hour trying to get it working on my two laptops without much luck at all. You’ll see how the programs I review below take under a couple of minutes to install, and barely five minutes to set up before you’re up and running.

What does doan mean?  Never heard that word before.

Hi hope you guys are doing well.

I am in need of some computer knowledge. And hoping someone can help me.
My friend ask me to help him with his computer. It was full of viruses. So instead of trying to remove it I decided to format the hard drive.
Before I formated it I opened and cleaned out the dust. It has been sitting and collecting dust and crap. Everything was still fine. I removed the
CPU heatsink cleaned it and the thermal paste. Reapplied new thermal paste.
Then I went to power on the system. At the startup menu I got prompted with IDE drives not detected press F1 to continue. And since then I could not get the pc up and running.
Later on I then took the hard drives and connect it to another system. It worked perfectly. I reinstalled windows and everything was great.
Till I reinstall the drive in the computer. I couldn't get it up and running. After that I decided to use my SSD with windows 10 on to see if it can start up and login to windows.
I then was met with a restart before windows could load. After that I thought about overheating problems. So I dove in to feel if I can feel something that is overheating. The CPU, graphics card,
Ram and the onboard chips on the motherboard was extremely extremely hot. Even the heatspreaders on the motherboard was extremely hot.
The PSU of the system was not the best. The fan was not running all the TIME and it was extremely stiff.
So I tooked a know good power supply replaced it in the hopes of fixing the problem.. But it didn't.
And I don't know what else to do.

My friends pc specs.
*2Gig DDR ram
*Nvidia GT 220
*120gig IDE HDD
*80Gig IDE HDD
*Intel pentium 4
*400Watt PSU

My pc specs.
*16Gig DDR3 ram
*Nvidia GTX 660oc
*120Gig SSD
*Intel I7 3770
*650Watt PSU

 

What "known good PSU" did you replace it with ? ?
You got extremely lucky swappin in HDDs with Win installed from another PC getting it to even boot...I replaced it with a unnamed 400watt power supply.
xD I know. But that was just to see if it can go past the windows logo sign.
I cannot boot from a USB flash drive on the system as well. That why I thought about
formatting on a other system and then swapping the drives before installing any softwareUntil you try a quality PSU it's all guesswork at this point...
Keep in mind it may be the junk PSU's causing the heat ISSUES to begin with. Quote

Intel pentium 4

That's a little high as a temperature. Only thing you could have messed up would be repasting it.

Hi there,

HOPE someone can help…..
      
First problem I had related to the PSU not working properly. The PC kept CUTTING out on start-up, it was only after pressing the start button/re-set button several times that the PC managed to finally get to the desktop. This problem has got worse and a few days ago during the usual DOZEN or so attempts at trying to get it started I noticed an error on the first start-up screen (the one where it does the memory check). The error message was:-

“CMOS checksum error – defaults loaded
F1 to continue. Del to enter setup/Dual Bios, F9 for xpress recovery

08/02/2004 nvidia-nforce-6A61BG0MC-00”

I took the F1 option and it got as far as the windows logo appearing with the scrolling progress bar. The pc then did a re-set by itself but this time there was no cmos error message. However it again did the re-set at the windows logo. So it seemed to be caught in some kind of re-set loop. I switched it off at the PSU as this was the only way I could power it down.

The next day I couldn’t get it to power-up at all. The PSU had packed in I guess.

I replaced the PSU with another and on start-up it went into the re-set loop again.

After a BIT of research I replaced the cmos BATTERY from my other PC and tried it again. This time the old CMOS error appeared but this time when I took the F1 option it loaded up windows without any problem. However the processor speed is not appearing correct in the device manager, but I think I know how to fix this in the BIOS/mobo. Unfortunately when I now re-start the PC it goes back into the re-set loop. The only way I can get the PC to boot ok is by taking out the CMOS battery and putting it back in. This only works once and after a re-boot I need to do it again.
I am actually using the pc now to post this, and it’s been working ok for about an hour, but I know if I re-start I will get the re-set loop problem.

Can anyone offer any advice?
Thanks in advance.

Ian
Sorry for the long post.Get a brand NEW CMOS battery instead of pulling one from another machine...'bout 4 Bucks U.S.

Post back and see how it goes.Thanks for your help.
I'll get a new battery today.

I got a web camera no driver no model on it any where in device MANAGER it is "USB/VID_046D&AMP;PID_092F\5&290EAE46&0&2" how to FIND driveras windows won't INSTALL it?I used device identifier and found a driver.

hello. I'm new here and wondering if a 2002 MONITOR is compatible with my windows 10 Toshiba Satellite C55d series laptop. Reason I say that because my old   gateway monitor flickers when connected to my laptop. All I want is an external monitor instead of using split screens. IDK what's going on. Do I need to install driver for it?  Do I do something with the BIOS? Or do I just get a monitor 2012 and up? I figured any monitor should work. Please help asap. Thanks. That can and does happen with even new monitors.
Is it a VGA connection?
How bad is it?
Do you want to invest time and money to fix it?


Well with my son's laptop he uses is windows 7 and the monitor never does that. With my toshiba laptop it did. It is vga connected and I think I explained that. It's bad because when I hook the darn thing up to my laptop is makes a sound like you plugged up a usb thing to the laptop, and the sound goes away. It just goes back and forth. As it does it back and forth, the old monitor displays my computer's screen then it goes to blank to power saver mode. Goes on over and over! No I don't want to invest money and if I do I will just get a compatible monitor. This is frustrating. I just need to see why it's doing that. I am thinking because the monitor is old and win 10 just not compatible for it. I got drivers to install for the monitor but still nothing happening. The instructions in the Read Me file look like they are for Windows 7 or something so therefore, I could not understand them. I can attach it here so you can translate them into Windows 10 terms. Can you do that and post it here? Or shall you PM me?Some details please.
What is the make and model of the old monitor?
Are you using a VGA cable?

What is the type and make of the other computer., the one that works good.
In what area do you  live? (Do you have 120 V.  60 HZ or 240 V. 50 Hz power.)

I think it a hardware issue, not a driver. Most laptops interface to a medium resolution monitor with no big  issues.
Sometimes flicker can happen with some programs, like some games.

Does it work better or worse on battery only?
The gateway monitor is Gateway FPD1520, 15 inch screen. Like I SAID before I am using a VGA cable. My laptop I just described above is Toshiba Satellite C55d-b on Windows 10. The area is ...I'm not sure you mean power from the monitor?

QUOTE from: Geek-9pm on January 09, 2017, 05:14:06 PM

Some details please.
What is the make and model of the old monitor?
Are you using a VGA cable?

What is the type and make of the other computer., the one that works good.
In what area do you  live? (Do you have 120 V.  60 Hz or 240 V. 50 Hz power.)

I think it a hardware issue, not a driver. Most laptops interface to a medium resolution monitor with no big  issues.
Sometimes flicker can happen with some programs, like some games.

Does it work better or worse on battery only?

No, remove power from the laptop from the walloutlet
 Some laptop power supplies will leak AC into the VGA cable andcause problems.

Im THINKING of buying a computer to burn dvds with to be viewed by DVD player with slide shows or accessable from computer.  Should i BUY a computer with dvd-rw or dvd-r?Could i use software LIKE imgburn to make it compatible with dvd PLAYERS Quote from: divs on January 11, 2017, 03:30:56 PM

Should i buy a computer with dvd-rw or dvd-r?

hey guys ,

i am gonna BUY a new video card .... 1st which is better ? Nvidia or ATI ?

second , there r 2 video cards i am hesitating between : these are : Geforce 7300 GT , and Geforce 6600 XT

also i wanna know what is the meaning of GT , GS , LE .... ?

plz HELP meTrack has been summoned.... Quote

Track has been summoned....

The video card master should be here soon. He knows all things graphics.....

hey guys ,

i am gonna buy a new video card .... 1st which is better ? Nvidia or ATI ?

second , there r 2 video cards i am hesitating between : these are : Geforce 7300 GT , and Geforce 6600 XT

also i wanna know what is the meaning of GT , GS , LE .... ?

plz help me

Quote

hey guys ,

i am gonna buy a new video card .... 1st which is better ? Nvidia or ATI ?

second , there r 2 video cards i am hesitating between : these are : Geforce 7300 GT , and Geforce 6600 XT

also i wanna know what is the meaning of GT , GS , LE .... ?

plz help me

Track has arrived *Odd hush*

First off, there is no difference beetween companies, only products.
The name of a graphics card goes by this:

7300

7 - the series of the graphics card, 3 - indicates the family of the card, how high or low end the card is, and thus it's performance. The lower the number is, the lower the performance overall and the price.
Low-end - 7300, Mid-range - 7600, High-end - 7800/7900 (of the 7 series from nVidia)

Then u have LE, GS, GT, GTX, GTO, or simple the number itself. These are another indicator of performance, following the number. 7300 GT is more powerfull than the 7300 GS, for instence.
LE/XT - The lowest end possible, lower than having no letter following.
GS - A shortened down version of the GT, could have less pipelines or even a weaker core.
GT - A shortened down version of the GTX, could have less pipelines.
GTX - The most powerfull card of the certain family. Only seen in high-end cards.
GTO - A card that is made at the end of a certain series' life span for less, in order to sell whatever is left of the GPUs. Almost as good as the GTX, for less.. great find.

You have the 7800 GTX/GT, 7600 GT/GS, 7300 GT/GS/LE.


Now, the 7300 GT is a low-end card of the '7 series' of graphics card from nVidia, but is the highest of the 7300 family, being GT. The 6800 XT is a high-end card of the '6 series', but is the lowest of the 6800 family, being XT.
The 6800 XT is a better choice for 100$, than the 7300 GT.

I reccomand u buy the X800GTO for 125$. Its an ATI card, and its the best card there is, for that ammount. Its more powerfull than the 7600 GT and can become as powerfull as the 7800 GT(!) if u unlock it's pipelines. Im sure u can figure just how amazing that is now.

Good Luck!

EDIT: If found the X800GTO for 99$! http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2458778&Sku=D15-9008&SRCCODE=PRICEGRABBER&CMP=OTC-PRICEGRABBER

[highlight]I reccomand that everyone buy this. [/highlight]

6800 XT is better than X1300 or 7300 GT.

Where do u live?

Quote

6800 XT is better than X1300 or 7300 GT.

Where do u live?

i live in Egypt ... what about X1600 ... i found it today at a reasonable price

Rather than post 2 threads id thought id just put my 2 questions in this one!

~ My sound only seems to play out of 1 channel.. ( EDIT: THINGS WILL PLAY OUT THE OTHER SPEAKER BUT IT SEEMS TO BE MISSING SOME SOUNDS LAYERS) the right speaker or right headphone WHETHER i plug them in at the front or back sound port on my PC should i assume that its the fault with the soundcard itself or something software based on my PC? ( The levels are correctly balanced on "volume control". don't know if this picture helps:




~ My other question is graphics card related: Im using a Radeon 9600XT graphics card. Ive only had my pc like 8 months and it now makes loads of noise when i turn on my pc.. it quietens down after about 3 minutes of running. i cleaned out the fan on it but im fresh out of ideas as to what the problem is? Is it possible to buy seperate components for the graphics card or not?

THANKS in anticipation You may need to upgrade your Sound Card drivers.ill try this now thanks, any ideas about my graphics card?Sometimes the fans on video cards or anything from a processor to a harddrive tend to go bad over TIME, just like everything else in this world. Again there maybe another way of solving this problem but the only thing I see fit is either to buy a new video card or to simply replace the fan if allowed. sorry for inconvinience.ye i tried asking various PC shops but most are pretty unhelpful (not to mention clueless) i was THINKING of just buying myself a new one soon though anyway since the 9600xt is a bit slow and out dated the updates didnt fix my soundcard problem  :-/ *censored* any other ideas?  maybe bad sound card??? out of a guess. sorry no other ideas. http://www.provantage.com/zalman-zmvf700cu~7ZALM00W.htm

This should be the right VGA cooling fan.

thanks for the help about the graphics card ill try and order a new fan at some point, any ideas about sound cards anyone? a recommended one that works good? i have up to about $70 to spend on one.

thanks in advance  Here's a good online source: http://www.newegg.com/ProductSort/SubCategory.asp?SubCategory=57&name=Sound-Cards.  Read the reviews, keeping in mind some reviews are posted by idiots. Quote

thanks for the help about the graphics card [highlight]ill try and order a new fan at some point[/highlight], any ideas about sound cards anyone? a recommended one that works good? i have up to about $70 to spend on one.

thanks in advance  

its ok i put a new one on my christmas list ; P ill sell the old one on ebay as " in need of a new fan" i cant really be bothered to fiddle! besides which i dont know mucha bout computers so chances are ill do more damage trying to fix it than just buying a new one

HI,
I wish to upgrade my Graphics card, but it seems I cannot upgrade my power supply of my PC "Sony VAIO PCV-RX514" deck top, what I would like to know is there a AGP geforce card of 128 or more so I can run games like Battlefield 2142 without upgrading the power supply or any other idea to get over this problem !!
Thanks for any help that you may give.
John  
ps Can the Graphics card be power from outside the pc some howThe question is how many watts does your PSU have??? And are you sure you cannot replace the PSU??? Yes, you can power Graphic card from outside PC if you have a steady hand with a soldering iron and if you want to completely destroy you Video card. Quote

ps Can the Graphics card be power from outside the pc some how

HI,
I wish to upgrade my Graphics card, but it seems I cannot upgrade my power supply of my pc "Sony VAIO PCV-RX514" deck top, what I would like to know is there a AGP geforce card of 128 or more so I can run games like Battlefield 2142 without upgrading the power supply or any other idea to get over this problem !!
Thanks for any help that you may give.
John  
ps Can the Graphics card be power from outside the pc some how

Hello. I am putting together a computer myself. I am having an awkward problem I do not know how to fix. Essentially the motherboard I have (epox 8HDAI Pro) does not have a monitor port on it, so I plug the monitor into the graphics card. (I know it's an ATI, and its about 2 years old but at the TIME was a high end model. It has 256 mb of ram on it I believe.) The problem is, when I installed windows and when I boot the computer the monitor was fine, but when I try to boot to the OS to finish the installation the monitor shuts off (saying there is no signal.) So my assumption is it is trying to change to an on board port since windows I guess does not know to use the card for video input. But I dont know how to fix this since I cannot get into windows (as there is no monitor) and I have no where else to plug it into. Is there any solution to this problem? Thanks.

1011First make sure the card is firmly seated.

Is this an old power supply? What is the make and wattage?

What happened to the previous motherboard? Sometimes they can be killed by a BAD power supply.

Do you have a friend that can load you another video card to try?

Was this a new motherboard? Did you check the troubleshooting tips on the manual on CD or at the manufacturer's web site?Well it is my old computer, and I am just returning to it. I believe the old power supply did fry the old motherboard. The motherboard was replaced, as well as the processor and the power supply. The powersupply in it now is 500w ATX power supply. The card is pretty firmly attached and I do not know anyone to borrow another card from. It works fine until windows itself is booting, thats when it shuts off. I remember having this problem 2 years ago but I do not remember how I fixed it.

I just found another graphics card and plugged it in, and it works fine with that one. But it DOESNT work with the better one. It is only slightly better though.
This means the better one is no longer better as it is on its way out.

p.s. Are you fastening the screw into the chassis that holds the vid card in place BTW ? ?A 500 watt what? Quote

A 500 watt what?

Justsaw this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3FuDWQwA0dI
The Pi winds up being cheaper...and is more proven.Patio, your are right on.
The Rasberry Pi is now at $5. Hard tobeolieve.
Does anybody make any money on this?

The PI is not $5.00...
However the features it has compared to your example make it cheaper in the long run...
Currently you can get them for $25 - 30 Bucks here...Without the whiiped cream, it is now $5 US.
https://www.raspberrypi.org/blog/raspberry-pi-zero/


Raspberry Pi Zero: the $5 computer
Of all the things we do at Raspberry Pi, driving down the cost of computer hardware remains one of the most important. Even in the developed WORLD, a programmable computer is a luxury item for a lot of people, and every extra dollar that we ask SOMEONE to spend decreases the chance that they’ll choose to get involved.

The original Raspberry Pi Model B and its successors put a programmable computer within reach of anyone with $20-35 to spend. Since 2012, millions of people have used a Raspberry Pi to get their first experience of programming, but we still meet people for whom cost remains a BARRIER to entry. At the start of this year, we began work on an even cheaper Raspberry Pi to HELP these people take the plunge.

Prices on other parts vary....Geek it needs the other parts...as i stated it's 25 to 30 Bucks US with connectors etc...If you already have some parts, you don't haveto buy tghe whole thing.
Just 45 for the bare esentials.
The poer supply can bew a battery charger for a SMART phone.
Use an old USB keyboard for input. Use a TV set for a monitor.

I give up...Regardless of which of these is used, you can get a pretty reasonable browsing machine for quite affordable prices and in incredibly small form factors using these.

I have a Pi 3 myself and  for it's form factor it's quite impressive. My only real complaints are with the software I was using with it (Emulation Station/Retro Pi for old game emulators). Being able to swap Micro SD Cards and go from that to a Linux distribution is pretty cool though.

I expect Pi Zero is largely aimed to compete with things like the Arduino, for experienced users seeking to minify their own projects. For example, Get a Zero and a Pin adapter and you can put it in place of that Pi 3 you've got ringing a bell when your front door opens or whatever.Untill I started looking around, I had no idea there was a price ware at the lowend.
ZDNet did this report:
http://www.zdnet.com/pictures/ten-raspberry-pi-2-alternatives/
Quote

Ten Raspberry Pi 2 alternatives
The Raspberry Pi 2 is the single-board computer of the moment, but there are plenty of others out there. We've rounded up some of the most eye-catching offerings.

Morning GUYS!
I've recently have rewaded a bonuse for all the HARD work I've been doing at my JOB. I want use that bonus to build new desktop, but one that requires the full amount of my skill and knowledge. I'll list my current build here and link the parts list(s). I look forward to some feedback.

Old Build:
CPU: intel i7 Haswell-e 4771
GPU:  EVGA Geforce GTX 770
RAM: Corsair DOMINATOR 32GB DDR3
SSD: Intel 240 GB

Edit:
Mobo: Asus Sabertooth z97
PSU: Corsair 1kW
-sorry

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Motherboard and power supply?updatedThose are all seem to be cooling components...

Why not invest in a 1060 - 80 vid card and a larger SSD instead ? ?there's two LISTS, one is a newegg wishlist pdf and the other is screenshot of the cooling system

Hi there,

I have a Lenovo laptop. When I turn it on the light the battery light stays on when the CABLE isn't PLUGGED in. I'm sure it didn't used to.What is the exact MODEL number of this laptop? 

 I have 2 Lenovo Core i5 laptops myself and maybe its a similar model to compare.

My Kabini Sempron 3850 1.3Ghz quadcore workstation is back to acting up again.

HDD LED solid at times and system acting unresponsive ( yet mouse moves freely about 90% of the time when this happens ). And then it will fix itself and START behaving normal again after about a minute or so. Hard Drive is silent not reading any data or writing etc, its a system hang condition until it gets past this hung state on its own after a period of time passes. Other times it locks up tight requiring a power button held in to shut it down.

Memtest86 shows no problems. Windows Event Logs show no problems. CrystalDiskInfo shows no problems. Power supply voltages are correct and not floating around.

This system I shared once before here and it was doing the same thing on a SSD drive, although with the SSD drive the system was far more unstable. I ended up installing Windows 7 64-bit then to a 250GB HDD and the system improved, so i assumed that the SSD I had in it had issues. However now it looks like its something else because the problem is back. However far more infrequent than when I had the SSD in it. When the SSD was in it, it was acting as if the Paging was getting messed up as for getting rid of the virtual memory on the system made it more stable with the SSD. But it made the system slower not being able to page and everything having to juggle in the 4GB DDR3 1600Mhz RAM.

Now on occasion I hear what sounds like a bell ping sound that comes from the hard drive, however Crystaldiskinfo shows that SMART data shows drive is healthy. This ping sound is very infrequent, maybe in a 8 hr period of use I might hear it 1 or 2 times and the noise doesnt happen when the system acts up. I created a share on my other system and so I am mirroring data manually between two systems so that if this 250GB HDD dies I still have most of my data on other system. The ping noise that happens infrequent isnt a noise that I see as healthy.

Anyone seen a Hard Drive die and show signs that its dying and not trip SMART and Windows Event Logs?   Thinking that I might IMAGE this drive to a 300GB drive that I have and see if this fixes issue, but its very strange that this system is the second go around with same issue this time HDD vs SSD.

Additionally the lock ups and HDD solid LED happens more when weighing down the system multitasking, yet the same multitasking at times has no problems. To me it points back to HDD issue, but why isnt the system detecting this issue and showing issues when it no longer takes input but mouse pointer can move all over the screen. Problem would be easier to diagnose if I get the same results given the same multitask or work thrown at it.
S.M.A.R.T can tell you if a drive is failed or failing. It cannot tell you if it's not failed/failing.

I'd suggest you run a chkdsk /r to do a surface scan to verify there are no bad sectors/clusters.You may also wanna swap a different HDD in to test for 72 HRS...if same symptoms it could be the MBoard...Good suggestion BC on the checkdisk... will give that a shot to see what it reports.

Additionally, i am hoping its not the motherboard, however the motherboard was a very cheap Gigabtye board. The Socket AM1 boards are so cheap. I paid $39.99 with free shipping for this one:  GIGABYTE GA-AM1M-S2H AM1         https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128696

It was a very cheap to build computer with CPU costing me $32, motherboard $40, and 4GB RAM for $20. Used an old Pentium 4 case and a newer 350 watt power supply, and other parts on hand that are ( ?? were ?? ) healthy parts.I used a similar Gigabyte AM1M-S2P, and it doesn't have problems like that, so it's not inherent to the board. (The only difference between the S2H and the S2P looks like the S2H has HDMI and no Serial/Parallel Ports).

Remember also that  the Motherboard is a "dumb" connection;  it has the Host Adapter but all the work is done by the drive logic since that is where the controller(s) are. So the sort of fialure that would mess up drives would tend to be far more pronounced and less sporadic, I'd suspect.

A PC motherboard differs a lotfrom those used incomercial servers. Still, the kind of hardware used is very MUCH the xsame stuff.
Of generalinterst is this reportfrom Google.
http://www.datacenterknowledge.com/archives/2008/05/30/failure-rates-in-google-data-centers/
Failure Rates in Google Data Centers
Quote

Google’s data centers operate on a large enough scale that it can shift redundancy from hardware to software. There’s so much hardware that it can use software to identify failures and route around them, even at the cluster level.

- Ran Check Disk and no problems found.

Hi,
I recently bought a Viewsonic VX-3209-2K and there is a burning smell coming from the top of the MONITOR. What should I do?Given it's so new, I'd GET it replaced under warranty.  I presume it's definitely a burning smell, electronics like monitors do tend to have a bit of a smell that comes from the top ventilation slots as it warms up, particularly when they are new.If i were you i WOULD RETURN it to the store.There might not be an issue but just to be sure.Who's feeding the parrots again ? ?

Hi
Since I installed my Maxtor diamondmax Ultra 16 HDD (300Gb),
I keep getting slowed up when I download something from the net.
Actually, whenever the "download" window opens from Firefox, it freezes up my computer using 100% of my Cpu.

At first I could go ONTO other programs and keep using my computer while firefox was unusable,
but now it's getting annoying to the point nothing works for that 30 seconds.

What could be wrong?What are you using for virus/spyware protection? Unless the computer is clean all bets are off. Did this problem start immediately after this drive was installed and no other changes were made? How many drives in the machine? How are they set up?The problem has begun only once the hard drive was installed.

I use Spybot search and destroy.
I have the same 9 Spyware coming BACK even though it says: problems solved after  I correct them.
Symantec antivirus finds no virus.

I have  my MAxtor as slave and a Western Digital 80 gig as primary.Do your scans in Safe Mode with system restore turned off. Then try the free online scanner at www.trendmicro.com.

If this is not noticeably improved, disconnect the slave drive and see if this is the deciding factor.

Then post back.thx for all the advising.

I got rid of all my spyware in safe mode.
Didn't solve the entire problem, though it takes less time.
Tried to install the Trend Micro spyware for SMB. That crashed and failed to install.

I unplugged the Maxtor, and it now takes BIOS 10seconds to recognise the primary WD 80gb.
The problem is still there.
I ran a virus check in safe mode again, and I still have nothing.

I'm bummed.
Simon
Thx a million, are you getting paid for this? I only have praises for ppl like you. Quote

Thx a million, are you getting paid for this? I only have praises for ppl like you.

Hello there, and first of all, thank you for taking the time to read this!

My computer issue is that everytime I start playing a full-screen game, my computer gets this checkerboard-like green and purple vertical pattern, like 4 or 5 sections of it. Sometimes, it just makes so many lines go crazy and it looks like the lines are dancing or something, and makes the game obviously unplayable. The games, if it even matters, it seems to effect every game I try fullscreened, are: Elder Scrolls Oblivion, Far Cry, World of Warcraft, and Star Wars Empires at War. Those are the only ones I have tried since having this problem, but like I said it probally will happen on any given full-screen game.

-But- when I run the same game in windowed mode (even if I check an option that makes the borders go away and everything else, so it appears to be full screen) it works just perfectly.

If I think of anything else to add to this I will, and I'll keep checking back frequently. Also, I am not the sharpest tool in the toolbox when it ocmes to computers, but my PC is a few years old, and the video card is only 1 year old. The video card is a Radeon x800 (I could be totally wrong, but I think it's something like that...) and my computer is a eMachienes. I have never had this problem before untill very recently, so it puzzles me... :-?

If I can get full-screen games working again I will love you forever! (Because I just bought a game that doesnt support a windowed mode, and I'd hate to see 50 bucks wasted)Much more info on your machine and OS and someone will be along shortly...Okay, let me know if this information is not enough.

eMachienes
T6520
AMD Athlon(tm) 64 Processor
3400+
2.39 GHz, 1.00 GB of RAM
Physical Address Extension

Windows XPHow old is this machine ? ?

I see nothing in those specs that would cause a high end game to create these conditions.

*Update*

I just tried playing a little game CALLED Puzzle PIrates, which is full screen. It's pretty much 2d, no special EFFECTS or anything compared to most games. That created no problems, no green and purple sections or anything. Quote

How old is this machine ? ?

I see nothing in those specs that would cause a high end game to create these conditions.

Hi guys, thanks for reading my question it's appreciated. I have a 3 or 4 YEARS old laptop, and the keyboard was defective after couple of years. So i order a new keyboard and take the chance (and the fun) to installed it myself. But since the keyboard work but it's a bit (really) loose. I try to screw everything back and start over the keyboard installation. The keyboard still really loose. Do you think i can do something ? LIKE using glue between the ELECTRONIC to fix the PART to the frame. Or it's too dangerous ?

Thank you.

Laptop : V5-473G-6814 CA

(You need to take everything off the laptop for INSTALLING the keyboard)
I had a Dell Laptop that I bought a replacement keyboard on amazon and while it worked mine was just a tad loose in lower right corner. I used a hot glue gun to add a dab of hot glue between the outter keypad/keyboard body and the frame, then added the plastic molding back to hide the hot glue. If you go this route of a hot glue gun just be careful not to get hot glue under aky of the keys. Hot glue cane be stringy when adding a dab of glue and moving the glue gun away from it. Keeping this streamer of hot glue from getting on laptop or under keys, should work to fix this. My Dell had screws that were on underside that went through bottom and into the keypad/keyboard. *If you used the wrong screws in the keyboard screw holes you could have screws that bottom out and keyboard loose too. Guessing its not wrong screws. Agreed...hot glue is the way to go as it can be safely pried loose down the road if need be...

Hello

I have 8 gb ram installed, and only 6.92 gb usable

Ive been into my bios and it sees all 8 in two channels (a2 and b2)

If you Know any tips on how to fix this please do REPLY!

(if you need more info just ask ILL reply back)Do you have integrated video using about 1024MB of it?

It might be that SYSTEM memory is being shared with the GPU and ALLOCATING it to the side for Graphics.

Hardware info will be helpful to know if your issue isnt caused by integrated video system shared memory.

I am sure this is an EASSY one. I an using the Disk manager in administartion tools , but I GET stuck wen i have to right click in "free SPACE" and click create a new partition (where the heck is it) :-? Am I doing this compleatly WORNG, I read all this right off of microsoft tec net.Is this a blank hard drive? How is the drive partitioned at this time? You cannot change things if everything is set as one large partition EXCEPT during installation OR with some third party tool like Partition Magic,e tc.thats it thanks

I have a TOSHIBA Qosmio DX730-10Q Part Number PQQ10E-02300CEN, and Serial Number 2C017671Y, very simple question how do you get the case off to replace the fan. Do you remove the back first the stand. Anyone help a service MANUAL of something may help me if you know of one.I would contact Toshiba and ask if they have a PDF available that shows how to open it safely. I have made contact with them in the past for other models and they have been helpful in GETTING back to me with a PDF that describes where the screws are located and screw types used for each hole etc.

Looking online at google I was not able to find a reference to a procedure, but that doesnt mean it doesnt exist.

On other model computers that are integrated into the display, I have found before where the base had to be removed first as for screws were hidden under the metal pivot plate.

But also in addition to screws holding it together, you may also have hidden tabs that need to be depressed to get it to open as well which you cant see, but with a PDF showing an exploded DIAGRAM of parts etc you will know where they are if there are any.Thanks for your Help, I have ask Toshiba UK but no reply yet I will try again, and I have search Google but got nothing.   Try Toshiba US...This looks like a service manual for it - http://tech.nexicore.com/downloads/Toshiba_DX730_mm_bw1.pdf

Took ages for me to load it but once it loads it looks like the correct manual.Gotta love thos pdf's and the people who swear by them.

Anybody knows where to find the service manual for Toshiba_DX730?  THANK you.Clik the link ^^^The link is no good