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I've come up against a problem I've been unable to solve. My computer keeps burning out power supplys. First they smell hot then POP and sparks, smoke...all the neat smells.
  My computer is a home built. I use Windows XP Home. I have a Shuttle AK39 Mother board.  AMD XP 2.2 cpu. 512 DDR333 memory. Santa Cruz sound card ATI 9200 Vid card. 2 40 gig Maxtor hard drives set up master and slave. DVD disc player and Aopen CD burner.
  This computer has worked flawlesy for over 3 years. But in November we had a thunder snow storm and we lost power. The power went out completely then came on with the lights going really bright(surge) and then went out.
  I have a strip power surge protector but it never tripped.  
  Anywho, the computer booted and ran fine for days after the storm, then the 350 watt PSU burned out. It was an expensive one, over 70.00 and it worked well for three years.  I bought a new 400 watt unit off from a vendor online and it worked well for about 3 weeks then pop! So I figured it was a cheapie(30.00). So I went out and bought a 450 watt unit. It worked for less than 4 days.
  Symptoms are, the computer will first crash then reboot automatically, then run fine for a short time then the PSU pops.  Last NIGHT the comp took awhile to reboot and showed a "severe error occured" at the beginning of the desktop load screen. This is the first time this message showed up.
  Now, my system temp stays at 37* C and the CPU is running 39* C. Way below the auto shut down.
  I DONE a BCM hardware test and everything passed with no problems.
  I've checked my house voltage and it's a steady 121 volts peaking at 123.7, same as other buildings on my property.
  I don't see any burned spots on my MB but 3 power supplys in less than a month? Any ideas?
  Would a bad MB cause the PSU to BURNOUT?
  My master HD runs a bit warmer than the slave but I attribute that to it being worked more.
  HELP!
Have you checked for a short in your power cable or your in-house wiring?Yes, the house has been checked by an electrician. I've used the new cords that come with the new power supply. I've also checked for a GROUNDING problem with the computer case.Cheap PSU's are what they are...it's not uncommon to run into 2 or 3 in a row that fail.

Buy a reputable PSU and chalk it up to experience.

Hi, My printer broke a few months ago and I went ahead and gave up on it.

Now I need it bad and its still broken. Everytime I go to use it, I turn it on and it says "PLEASE turn off power and clear paper JAM. Then turn printer BACK on." When I try to print, the computer says "Paper Jam!" Now tell me how is it possible for there to be a paper jam without any paper even in it?

I've tried multiple solutions and it still gives the ERROR. Please help, I'm closely considering just BEATING on it  Have you tried cleaning your printer?Because a paper jam is what it is...check all the feed rollers to see if there is any foriegn material in there...Have you tried uninstalling and reinstalling the printer and drivers?

http://downloads.lexmark.com/cgi-perl/downloads.cgi?ccs=229:1:0:440:11:0



Peanut butter and paper jam would make a nice sandwich.

On Friday night I opened my Toshiba Tecra 8100's lid and heard a "SNAP", and pieces of metal started falling out of the bottom left-hand corner of the display, and the screen went completely limp. Taking off the bezel revealed that the left hinge clutch is destroyed.   The right hinge has been broken since I GOT the computer, so I assume that the left hinge gave out from supporting the entire screen by itself. But the right hinge has no visible damage :-?

So I was wondering if you guys could help me find the CORRECT hinges so I can order them and replace them. The computer isn't very useful right now being I have to prop the screen up :-/

It has a 14.1" screen and the part number of the computer is PT810U-11953

Thanks again!

-John
This took all of .018734 seconds on google...

http://www.impactcomputers.com/toshiba-tecra-8100-parts-internal-parts-and-assemblies.html
This was a problem waiting to happen... but couldn't it have held off just a little longer? Closer examination revealed that where the hinge screws into the display it broke in half too. No wonder the screen felt like it was falling off on that side. Thanks!

-JohnSounds like you might need some SuperGlue as well as a new hinge. I was a little vauge about that haha. The actual hinge broke in half where it attaches to the screen.

-John Quote

I was a little vauge about that haha. The actual hinge broke in half where it attaches to the screen.

-John

I just want to know what this part - A Fir Cover - is for (from that web page link):

http://www.impactcomputers.com/p000288630.html

I WANT a fir cover ! ! !

[size=12]Hello,  I have a HP with intel celeron, 801mhz, currently 2 - 128 pc133 ram cards installed.  I ordered 2 256 for a total of 512, when I removed the 2-128's and installed the 2-256, the computer would not even start, no hp logo on monitor, nothing.  I then put back in 1 128 and left the 2ND 256 in, this time it started with the hp logo, but nothing else.  I then went into bios and it only showed the 128 and NO hard drive listed only my dvd drive.  I reinstalled both 128's and computer back to normal.  The 256's are kingston pc100 3.3V SDram.  

Did I not purchase the correct thing? or might there be another problem?

Thanks for any help![/size]The RAM sticks are probably not COMPATIBLE with your motherboard. Also, the ones you purchased are PC-133 right?Try here:

Crucial.com

Match your computer with their RAM.  You'll be sure to get the right stuff.

Alan <><  medieval30, did you use Kingston's Memory SEARCH?  Did you find your computer listed?The kingston was pc100, Lesson LEARNED and I will check that site to see what is compatable.  Thanks for the answers!No problem. Happy to help .

Hi
I'm trying to figure out how much memory my GPU's have.
I have 970m Sli set up.
I can't work out if I have two 6GB cards or two 3GB cards.
Cpuz says memory available 6gb, then it says the same when I select the other card,
But I was told that even though I select different cards, the ram is added up for both cards even when DISPLAYING the info for just one.
So they both say 6gb individually, but that's because it is adding up the ram of both cards.

So..
Just how much gpu ram do I actually have per card!?

Thanks3G. Quote from: patio on November 10, 2016, 06:59:29 AM

3G.

In SLI mode, each graphics card uses its own FRAME buffer memory to RENDER a 3D application. The operating system will REPORT a graphics card frame buffer memory size that is found on a single graphics board.

I had a drink spilt on the power adapter where the power PLUG connects into the laptop.  I need to get a replacement since, I use the laptop fairly regular and can't seem to find any that are HP Does it have to be HP specifically?

Plenty around on the web, these are just examples:

60 Watt HP G6 G7 power adapter $8.98 on Amazon



https://www.amazon.com/HP-Pavilion-G6-Adapter-Charger/dp/B0080E2G6E

Or newer model 90 Watt faster charger $11.99

https://www.amazon.com/Warranty-Faster-Charger-Aluminium-Cooling/dp/B00MGAA80E/ref=dp_ob_title_ce
Is that you Squall ? ? Quote from: Salmon TROUT on October 22, 2016, 03:07:14 PM

Does it have to be HP specifically?

Plenty around on the web, these are just examples:

60 Watt HP G6 G7 power adapter $8.98 on Amazon



https://www.amazon.com/HP-Pavilion-G6-Adapter-Charger/dp/B0080E2G6E

Or newer model 90 Watt faster charger $11.99

https://www.amazon.com/Warranty-Faster-Charger-Aluminium-Cooling/dp/B00MGAA80E/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

Hello!  I'm LOOKING for a laptop with good sound system and quiet fans.  I work with Classical Music, so a noisy fan would be a problem.  HP laptops have this DTS sound, which is good, but the fans I've HEARD were loud.   Anyone has any suggestions??For whats it worth,I do not think you will find any current laptop with decent sound.
Fan noise is caused by moving air in a confined space. That is why  TRADITIONAL DESKTOPS can have the LOWEST fan noise levels.

Professional  portable equipment for broadcast work goes for about $7000 and up.

For your musical pleasure, the best  you can do is some kind of portable audio with Bluetooth headphones.

But keep looking... maybe you will find a decent laptop out there. Consider a used Mac Book with external speakers. Best sound for your money.

I have an eleven-day old Surface Pro 4 RUNNING Win 10.

It has been plugged in all night, and I noticed about ten minutes ago that it is at 96 percent and charging.

I ran a battery report:

(At 1152 I unplugged and plugged back in, otherwise it has been plugged in for the last 12 HOURS at least).

Now, I AM running this thing hard right now. I have a Word doc open that I SHOULD be working oni, Firefox open while I read Newspapers of the world, and I have this thing converting a 14GB GoPro video.

Also, it has been holding at 96 percent, at least for the 15 minutes it has taken me o run the report, save the screenshot, and TYPE this....
Hello, your question is very important. This has been observed on other models of laptops and there has, to my knowledge, never been a clear and well expressed explanation of this. In my personal opinion, laptop makers have done a poor job of explaining how the battery system works and what the user should do.
Some investigation shows that these types of batteries should not be left on a charger and definitely. Charging the unit actually generates some heat and represents a waste of energy. The battery is capable of keeping most of it charge without having a steady stream going into it 24 hours a day. There are some references to indicate that this procedure of a 24-hour charge may actually be dangerous or shorten the life of a lithium-ion battery.
However, if you think there's something wrong with your new laptop, take advantage of the warranty positions right away. As you may know, the laptop manufacturers have been very reluctant to identify battery problems in a timely manner. Sometimes users find himself outside of the warranty. When a danger has been identified by the manufacture. So, if you have doubts about the quality of the battery in your computer, contact the vendor or the manufacturer right away.
Now, having said that, there's just too much conjecture and speculation about how the battery systems are supposed to work in a laptop battery. This has got to be the fault of the manufacturers themselves of not making clear exactly how the systems are supposed to work.
The following observations are not my opinion nor are they conjecture. This is based on documented material that has been published in papers for engineers and technicians who work with the sort of thing. Normally lithium ion and similar battery types should charge to near full capacity in a reasonable amount of time. This is usually much less than eight hours and in some cases only takes four hours to go from almost 0 to near 100%. This has been documented elsewhere.
Sometimes it is specified that at least once you should leave the system on overnight for complete charge. Yes, that also has been documented. But it does not mean you would do that habitually. The document states this would be done the first time you use the device you would charge it overnight. From then on, only a short period of time should be needed to charge the unit to its full capacity.
While using the units at home or in your office you can plug the charger into the AC power in order to conserve battery energy and to provide a brighter display. Even so, you should unplug the charger from the wall after you SHUT down your computer.
I am aware that many others disagree with this and think you can just leave it plugged in all the time. But most of the real technical documentation does not support this conclusion.
Personally, I do justly the thing plugged in all of time. Because I'm too lazy to unplug it or I forget to unplug it. So I phoned the habit of just leaving it plugged in all the time until later I think about it and realize that I'm not doing the battery in a good by leaving it plugged in all the time.
I hope this is of some help to you. If you need links to documents that support this kind of reasoning, please some come back and say you'd like to see where this information is found.
Thanks. I know there's lots of discussion and opinions on battery management; I'd never really considered the bit about keeping it plugged in while not in use.

What I wasn't able to gather from your reply, though, is why the battery would drain while it was plugged in. As SOON as the video was done rendering, it shot back up to 100 percent.

What it APPEARS to be is, while the processer was being heavily taxed, the machine was using 100+ X% of the AC power to do its work - so it had to tap into the battery for that X%. I didn't know it could do that. And power management is similar to many UPS systems that actively run off the battery but maintain charge. Quote from: rjbinney on November 09, 2016, 02:39:19 PM

What it APPEARS to be is, while the processer was being heavily taxed, the machine was using 100+ X% of the AC power to do its work - so it had to tap into the battery for that X%. I didn't know it could do that. And power management is similar to many UPS systems that actively run off the battery but maintain charge.

I don't think there is any reason to shoehorn tangentially related content into other threads.

hello all,
i bought a "logitech illuminated keyboard " at a yard sale.

it came with a disc and a cable, but no instructions.
does anyone know how to set this up ?

many thanks.It's a keyboard. Connect it and it will work. Download and install setpoint SOFTWARE to enable additional features.Or just because you MEAN it is fancy and and has illuminations, it'd be SETUP in a DIFFERENT manner  The MANUAL is at the Logitech site if you run into any issues...

I have just purchased an external 3.5 inches HDD, it is driven by external PSU.
The problem is that whenever I plug it to my XP, it can be detected, but after a few seconds later it will disappear from My COMPUTER, and then the auto-run menu will pop out.

Please help!
Do you not want the AUTORUN feature enabled then?
You can disable this.
Doess the device reappear in My Computer after it disappears? Quote

Do you not want the Autorun feature enabled then?
You can disable this.
Doess the device reappear in My Computer after it disappears?

If Windows says your USB port has a problem, it probably has.
Try a different USB port.

Do you not want the Autorun feature enabled then?
You can disable this.
...

Either use TweakUI which you'll find on this page, or try this.
Hope this helps.

Quote

Either use TweakUI which you'll find on this page, or try this.
Hope this helps.

Thanks, Calum!
The author of the Web site strongly recommended Windows Users to disable the auto-run function.
Why?

Quote

Quote

Either use TweakUI which you'll find on this page, or try this.
Hope this helps.

Thanks, Calum!
The author of the Web site strongly recommended Windows Users to disable the auto-run function.
Why?

Because it can be annoying for one thing, and more importantly it can be used to spread viruses - the autorun file can automatically launch a virus contained on a CD, flash drive etc.
Also, it can slow your PC down.
I always disable autorun/autoplay on my PCs.

T30 (2366 PU6) is it possible to retrofit a SCROLL pad on this MODEL, by replacing the KEYBOARD BEZEL?Doubtful.

About a year ago the screen on my Sony GRX316 laptop died, so I removed the original screen and attached a separate Sony TFT screen which has worked FINE for basic desktop use.

Following a recent software conflict, I now need to boot the MACHINE in safe mode and/or restore from backup discs, but my problem is that the initial boot messages are not displayed on the screen so I can't see what it's doing. Nothing is shown until the Windows logon at which point the software conflict is causing it to automatically reboot, hence the need to boot in safe mode and/or restore from backup. But I don't know how to do that without being able to see the messages on the screen.  

Can anyone suggest how to get out of this catch-22 situation? It's running Windows XP Pro by the way.To boot in Safe Mode, press F8 when the system is starting.Thanks for your reply, but that wasn't the question. I was asking if anyone knows a way of getting boot messages to appear on an auxiliary monitor. When I press F8, I know it's going into safe mode but the problem is that I cannot see the resulting messages on the screen - this being a replacement screen that is attached via the auxiliary monitor port on the laptop. Nothing shows on the screen until the Windows logon message comes up, which is too late because the software conflict that I'm trying to remove causes it to automatically restart at that point. Similarly, BOOTING from system restore disks requires answers to questions that would normally come up on a natively attached screen but are not coming up on this auxiliary monitor.

 

wessexpete2.....  How have you determined that the problem is software conflict ?

dl65  YES - my daughter had the machine for a while and tried to install a new anti-virus package without first uninstalling the OLD one (a different product). Not a good idea! The continual restart loop kicked in as soon as she rebooted as instructed to complete the new install.

Hello all.  I have an issue that just started recently.
This has only happened during playing a game.  The first game it happened on was Battlefield 1.  Now, I played in the beta and for a bit after launch and never had this issue then all of the sudden one day the laptop just powered off.  It would not turn back on until I cracked the back and pulled the motherboard battery out and put it back in.  About an hour later, same thing.  So I stopped playing Battlefield 1 thinking maybe a patch or driver was needed.

I played many other games after that with no trouble and then then over this past weekend while playing Overwatch the same thing happened again. 3 times in a row.   This time I let it sit OVERNIGHT, and even then I could not turn it back on without removing the motherboard battery and putting it back in.

Doesn't seem like heat would be it because other games which are just as intensive don't do this.  Plus I have played these games without problems.  And in the case of Overwatch, since launch without problems.

The Laptop is:
Toshiba Qosmio
2.4 GHz Intel Core i7
16 GB Ram
NVIDIA GeFore GTX 770M

To be specific:

1: Playing game.
2: Full power off (Only light from computer is the fact that it is plugged in light.)
3: Computer will not power on.  (Doesn't matter if I wait 30 seconds or overnight, will not power on.)
4: Remove the battery from the mother board.
5: Put the battery back in the motherboard.
6: Boots as normal (Prompted to enter a date and time first, then boots as normal.)

Any HELP would be greatly appreciated. 
Does computer run without the battery INSTALLED powered off the wall and then have no issues or same issues? Don't rule out heat...where do you get your Temps from BTW ? ? Quote from: DaveLembke on November 21, 2016, 09:03:49 AM

Does computer run without the battery installed powered off the wall and then have no issues or same issues?

Hey, are you asking about the Motherboard battery or the actual battery used to run the laptop when not plugged in.
Either way in both cases, I have not tried to run the Laptop without them installed.  Let me know which and I will try it.

About a week ago I bought this Gateway GT5056B PC..

It was running fine, up until yesterday when it mysteriously turned itself off. It just completely shut down out of nowhere. When I turn it on the fan usually starts up real loud, and then after a few seconds goes quiet and the PC starts. But after the crash, turning on the PC resulted in the fan coming on and staying on "loud mode" (whatever) and the PC not starting up. The fan just runs and runs. The blue "on" light is lit, the LIGHTS on the DVD-ROMs light up but Windows doesn't start. No power appears to go to the keyboard, the monitor doesn't know anything's happening either. There is also a little solid orange light on the front of the PC which lights up. This light is not on when it is running normal.

So I hold in the power button and the PC turns off. I start it again and the same thing happens. I turn it off, disconnect the whole thing at the wall, wait a few minutes, reconnect, and PRESS the power button. Now the PC tries to start up and just dies almost immediately. Press it again and maybe the same happens or maybe nothing happens. THEN (finally) press it again and hopefully it starts up and the PC works no problem.

So great, it works, I keep on using it, shut it down, turn it back on, all normal. Until today when the same thing happens. And this TIME it took a bloody lot of rebooting before it would work.

So obv something is wrong, and I will call the helpline tomorrow, but for now does anyone have any idea what could be wrong? The Gateway website is not at all helpful.

Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions.  :-?No DOUBT it is under warranty so use that. There is no need for you to troubleshoot this problem, which is theirs. Mucking about can POSSIBLE void your warranty.

It would be nice to get a working computer quickly, as that is what you paid for, but better to go through the system.

Yes, our teacher is a crack head. He thinks he wants and IP Sniffer. He doesn't know an IP Sniffer is a program that tells you what IP belongs to what computer. Is there a device that will tell us which wire belongs to which computer?

ThanksNo but a general course in electronics will tell you what you need to know...what is it you need to know ? ?there is such a device. i have used it in tracing TELEPHONE lines from INDIVIDUAL townhouse units all the way to the main telephone junction for a townhouse BLOCK. they are called "wire toners" or "wire tracers".

this is how they work...

1. you plug in a "remote" on one end of of the wire (the remote sends a signal down the wire)
2. you PLACE the toner on all the wires one by one until the toner starts making a noise.
3. the wire that makes the noise is the wire that has the remote plugged into it.

they are very EASY to use, however i do not know how much they cost.

you can also use an ohm meter (or multi meter) and jumper ALL the wires on one end of the cable and test to see for continuity on the other end.

hello all

I have a dell dimension 2400 that is about 3 years old.  It just up and quit loading.  There is no visual on the monitor.  I turn it on, the light turns green, the ABCD lights on the back are all green, the fan starts, then nothing.  I do not know if it is even going through POST.  The only time I can get a beep code is when I start in F8.  It is 1-1-2 (microprocessor register failure)?  I was told to take the battery out, put a jumper on c moss, start the cpu, shut down the cpu, take the jumper back off and put the battery back in.  I did all that and still nothing.  I have tried the monitor on a different cpu and it worked fine.  I had not added anything prior to this happening.  Not only is there no visual, just to see if it was loading and I could not see it, No windows starting SOUND comes out of speakers.

pentium 4 processor, 256 ram, 80g hard drive

Thanks in advance for any ideas! Quote

I was told to take the battery out, put a jumper on c moss, start the cpu, shut down the cpu, take the jumper back off and put the battery back in.  I did all that and still nothing.

i have 24inch 2 years old CHINESE monitor that have only VGA connection. I have rx460 video card. i BUY this (https://goo.gl/KVXooy) displayport vga adapter and that don't work. i want to buy this adapter (http://s.aliexpress.com/QzyABbUR) and I want to ask if this adapter will work for me?
http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-3181144/460-vga-monitor.html

This is covered here... the issue is that the DVI-D on this video card is lacking legacy VGA support which most DVI-I's support. There is a link to solution here at link above. Quote from: DaveLembke on November 10, 2016, 08:40:43 AM

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-3181144/460-vga-monitor.html

This is covered here... the issue is that the DVI-D on this video card is lacking legacy VGA support which most DVI-I's support. There is a link to solution here at link above.

Hi guys,

Good day.

I'm trying to upgrade my old computer processor, and I need some helps.
I have searched and FOLLOW the instructions from some THREADS but I'm still stuck with the problem.

So, I have an old computer with Intel Pentium 4 631 3.0Ghz processor, and I changed the processor to Intel Core 2 Duo e6600 (it's not a new one). After changed, there is no display on the monitor (monitor went to sleep) when starting up the computer. The CPU fan is running though, and the power LED is on too. But I don't hear any sound indicating the computer passed the POST. By the way, when I removed the RAM, there is unlimited short beep from the computer.

This is my computer specs:
Motherboard: ECS > P4M900T-M2 (V1.0)
RAM: Kingston kvr800d2n6/2g (2 pieces)
GPU: Nvidia Geforce 8600 GTS (I tried to remove the card and use onboard VGA too, to make sure it's not GPU problem).
PSU: Powerlogic Magnum Pro 275 (550w peak) (looks like this: https://www.google.com/search?q=Powerlogic+Magnum+Pro+2...(550w+peak)&client=firefox-b-ab&biw=1304&bih=671&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj28tmSz5vQAhVJvo8KHYCMBYwQ_AUIBigB#imgrc=kskZ-IPO74PmfM%3A)

Also, I have tried to:
1. Make sure the motherboard can support the new processor.
2. Update the BIOS to the latest version.
3. Change the RAM to Kingston kvr667d2n5/1g. (only 1 piece of RAM)
4. Reset the BIOS either with moving the jumper or remove the CMOS battery.
5. Unplug the power cable and hold computer power button for 30 seconds.
6. Checked the new processor (core 2 duo e6600), it is working in dell optiplex 780.

If I put back the old processor (Pentium 4 631), the computer is running well.
I running out of idea. Is there anything I missed? Please help


Regards ECS Boards are troublesome at times, they are the lowest of quality and highest of failure rates.

Is the BIOS version: 08/08/18?

I used this as reference to verifying supported processors:
http://www.cpu-upgrade.com/mb-ECS/P4M900T-M2(V1.0).html

Looking online I saw that your using DDR2-800Mhz sticks and the board supports DDR2-667Mhz. The DDR2-800 sticks are likely working underclocked with the Pentium 4 as limited by chipset.

**You might want to find a better brand/quality motherboard as for there are lots of issues with this board from reviews I have read such as no Dual-Channel Support and maximum RAM = 2GB will be a problem with newer OS's if you plan to game on this.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813135043


Hi,
Thank you for your asnwer.

Yes, the BIOS version is 08/08/18.
Do you have any recommendation for the motherboard in affordable prices?
I need a motherboard that can support Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 (Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 will be better), with DDR2 RAM.
I won't overclock the computer since I'm only using that for browsing, streaming and playing Dota 2 (not in high resolution).
And I will use Sapphire R7 250 2GB as the GPU.What do you have for a budget?

My thoughts are that if your budget would cover this, to get a refurb computer with Windows 7 complete with Core 2 Duo or Core 2 Quad for around the $80 - $150 range.

Here is a solution for $82 (USD) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883798580



Quote

    Core 2 Duo E6700 (2.66 GHz)
    2 GB DDR2 80 GB HDD
    Windows 7 Home Premium 32-Bit

Today I went to press the power button on my Dell
 vostro 220s intel pentium running windows vista
The power button blinking a yellowish color while
Sound beeps twice at a time. I just used this computer last night with no problems
Please help me. I have the system open ready to explore.
That's Dells way of saying you NEED a new power supply.

Some more details are needed.
Did you buy this in Asia?
Sis you Vista OS up to date?
Did you recently UPDATE something?
Like a better sound card?
Or better graphics?

Does the link below get the service manual?
https://www.manualowl.com/p/Dell/Vostro-220s/Manual/106105I brought it years ago from dell.com
Yesterday when I logged on the system performed a update
Apple update was the last I remember cause I had to reboot my computer
No new sound card or graphic card.
I use this computer for my SMALL business inventory I probably use it a few times a month.

The laptop in question is an HP nx7010.  It was in standby mode over night.  In the morning when the user went to take it out of standby mode it was locked and wouldn't come out, so he did a hard reboot.  He restarted the laptop and got a no READ message.  When trying to USE safe mode it stays in the loop from startup through the INITIAL Window splash with progress bar to the safe mode choice screen, where it flashes an autoexec screen briefly and starts over.  Any suggestions?I don't suppose it is under warranty? Did you contact HP from the contact numbers/email on their site?

I have no IDEA what a "no read message" is.I'm actually in the process of contacting HP.  Just waiting for a reply.  The user performed an HDD test through f10 setup which is where he received the message--no READ.HP didn't want to spend the time troubleshooting the problem.  Instead they are going to send me a new hard drive.  I'm glad the problem will be fixed, however, I wish I KNEW what caused the problem.  Oh well....Be warned that they will not back up the data, or even attempt to, first.

Suspend, HIBERNATE, all of  those gimmicks have risks.

Hello,

I am new to this site. I am currently struggling to create a tutorial on determining, and resolving printer errors. The goal is to make it specific enough to target a certain audience; however, it is not meant to meet everyones needs.

I am thinking I will do an inkjet printer since it seems more common, but I do not own a printer. Nor do I have any experience with printers or printing errors. The tutorial needs to be at least 12 powerpoint slides long.

Any help would be appreciated. Trying to finish this project ASAP.

Regards,
BatgirlHow much do you want to pay for a good cheap everyday printer?
Do you want to make copy copies of your photos?
The color quality of the cheap printers is not so good.
Do you want it to have a scanner? M
any of the cheap model do a fair job of making copies.
Below $100 the selection is limited.I think you ha veto pay almost $20 to GET something you like.
Here is a list of good cheap printers.
http://www.windowscentral.com/best-cheap-printer
You might want a laser jet color printer like the HP Envy 4520
It sells for under $100 at Walmart.
You should buy from a local dealer that allows refunds and returns.
So if you don't like the cheap printer, they will let you trade up to a better model.
 Geek she's not looking to buy a printer...re-read the Post.You need to do a tutorial on printers but you've never owned one? Really?I have used printers before, but other than a connection error I have not had problems. I am too far into the class now to back out of this idea. However, I can modify the idea. I am just unsure of what I should really write about. I don't know if one specific issue would be long enough to meet the project's criteria, so I thought I would discuss a few of the main issues.

Any ideas on which direction to go in? I don't know if I can generalize to match most printers so I thought I would at least narrow it down to inkjet or laser. From there I was unsure if I should choose a specific model or if it was safe to generalize?

Help  ThanksA specific model, if it is popular, will draw a audience.
If you buy a printer, you can take photos of it and make it part of the tutorial. Photos dawn more attention.
You can include in the tutorial ideas about how to overcome the limitations of a specific model.  For example, making a booklet with a simple printer is a chore.

New idea... Does anyone have any thoughts or knowledge about printers printing colors incorrectly?The issue is not wrong colors, just ugly colors.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inkjet_printing
Quote

The primary cause of inkjet printing problems is ink drying on the printhead's nozzles, causing the pigments and dyes to dry out and form a solid block of hardened mass that plugs the microscopic ink passageways. Most printers attempt to PREVENT this drying from occurring by covering the printhead nozzles with a rubber cap when the printer is not in USE. ABRUPT power losses, or unplugging the printer before it has capped the printhead, can cause the printhead to be left in an uncapped state. Even when the head is capped, this seal is not perfect, and over a period of several weeks the moisture (or other solvent) can still seep out, causing the ink to dry and harden. Once ink begins to collect and harden, the drop volume can be affected, drop trajectory can change, or the nozzle can completely fail to jet ink.

I have asus laptop G551VW-FY212T and windows 10 has a lot of issues, I can't reset windows 10 os it gives me error so I just want to downgrade to windows 7. How do I downgrade to windows 7? Should I do it though bios or in windows 10? Now I heard of this Chinese program called driver genius which is suppose to download drivers for COMPUTER that does not support windows 7. Problem is though it is in Chinese so what other way can I download windows 7 drivers for this laptop? I have a windows 7 disc to put in my laptop but the track pad and keyboard are unresponsive during windows 7 setup. External mouse keyboard do not work either Some questions.
Did this computer have Windows 7 at one time?
Exactly what version of Windows 10 do you have?

Suppose somebody has Windows 10 on a new PC and wants to downgrade to 7. Does Microsoft allow that? Well, yes. Sort of.
This might help:
http://www.groovypost.com/howto/downgrade-windows-10-to-windows-7-windows-81/
Quote

If you recently purchased a new computer, preinstalled with Windows 10, only to find out it does not work with your hardware or software, or you just don’t like it, then you might want to consider returning the computer. The hassle associated with actually downgrading is not as convenient and smooth sailing as you might believe

...  can't downgrade if it wasn't previously installed. You have to have a Windows 7 DVD and do a clean installation after formatting the drive.

Like everyone else in the office workplace, I use a keyboard. I often find myself entering in the same DATA over and over. The company will not let me install a 3rd party software program to allow me automated PASTE options using the F buttons.

Is there a way to program in straight text in the F6 to F12 buttons?

This would allow me to paste the text by simply pressing that particular F button.

Thanks in AdvanceAre you using MS Office applications (Word, Excel, Access, etc?) a lot?  Perhaps you could use macro(s) to help with repetitive pasting.

Are you currently using some method copy and paste?  Perhaps keeping Notepad window open to hold text repeatedly needed would help.  Then copy from it and paste.Yeah, I've thought of and use the notepad for some stuff, but these are 1 sentence bits I'd like to paste which would probably take longer to (ie switch the app, find the specific text and paste) do.

This is all using Internet Explorer. Too bad IE didn't have anything like that.What's the answer to my first QUESTION?Do you use Ctrl/C and Ctrl/V to copy and paste?Soybean,

Thanks for your help! The answer to your first question was answered, sorry if not clear. This problem is when using Internet Explorer. That where all my data needs to be pasted to.

Yes, I do use ctrl+c/ctrl+v to copy and paste.

Basically, I WANT to remain in IE, hit F10 and paste a text sentence stored in F10 into a text field in IE.

I did some Googling but couldn't find much of anything really helpful on this except maybe some third-party software.  But you say your company won't authorize that, which is backward thinking, in my opinion.  If you can't persuade them to authorize it, I don't know what else to suggest.That's what I figured as I did the same thing. Thanks anyway. Maybe I can convince them.If you can quantify the savings in manhours and labor cost on a weekly, monthly, or yearly basis, that will probably be more effective in trying to convince them.  Good luck.Soybean (and anyone else who MIGHT know)

I've got the approval for the software! I have a day to do this. Are you aware of any freeware that will allow me to assign text to the function keys?

Thanks!Here's something that looks interesting: Workspace Macro recorder 4.5.  One the features listed is: Automate Data entry into any application or web formThanks for the link, however I found a free program called Hotkeyz by skynergy.com. Works fantastic.

I purchased a microphone for my desktop, and after not being able to get it to WORK, I exchanged it at the store. The store TRIED out both mics on their computers and they worked fine. I have gone through all the regular troubleshooting (it's not muted, it's plugged into the right port, I've tried sound recorder and skype and the control panel hardware setup, etc) and nothing seems to be working.

I’m running windows XP – not sure of the exact stats of my computer but it’s about 3 years old and has average stats, around 80 gigs. My soundcard is VINYL AC'97 Codec Combo Driver (WDM) and the one thing I noticed is in the Control Panel audio options, the Vinyl AC'97 (WAVE) is the default mic device, and the other options are greyed out.

The mic is a very very basic nexxtech mic that came with no software or drivers.

Thanks, I hope you can help.
Look for a SETTING called "Microphone Boost" or something similar.  If not enabled, then enable it.  I got it to work by playing around with the settings somehow. I think updating the sound card drivers did it. Yay! Thank you.

Hi guy,

I had a problem with my portable 2.5" 60GB hard drive. It cannot write those files that I copy from my PC. It prompted a MESSAGE , " Cannot copy XXX files. Cannot find the specified files. Make sure you specify the correct path and file name".
I noticed that the copying timing that show keep going up & down & then after about 15 sec or so it pop out this message as written above. I try on another PC, it also have this problem.

I try using a 512MB thumb drive & it can be copy within 30 sec without any problem. It mean my files or PC do not have any problem.

Can someone, Pls help me. :-?

Thk!How are you trying to copy those files ? ?
The error message leads me to believe that drive is OK and you are doing SOMETHING the machine doesn't understand.
How does that drive show up in Explorer ? ?

Actually post what OS you have since we don't know that info yet as WELL...Patio,

1) I copy the whole folder from my PC D: drive to F: drive ( portable hard disk).

2) I am using  Window XP home edition.

3) It show F: drive in the explorer.

The reason it is balking is you are trying to copy a drive to a drive...the error message could probably be from something being in use  on one of the 2 drives at the time...

There are many utilities out there that will help with this operation.

Post back with more info on exactly what you want to acxcomplish and we can lead you further.Patio,

But why can I copy the same folder to my thumb drive without any problem at all. & this problem happened only about 3 weeks ago. Previously it's OK. I feel that there is something wrong with my portable hard disk.
My objective is just to copy the whole folder (with some files inside) from PC D drive: to F: drive (portable hard disk).

BTW, is there any software that can help to check or scan detail error for external or portable hard disk?

Just right click that drive in My COMPUTER and select properties...in the first window clik on diskclean and let it run...then select tools and run error CHECKING on it.
Post back with your results.

Hi,
I have an odd problem. I run a P4 3.2 GHz computer. It's not multi-cpu, but on the device manager, it shows that I have TWO P4 processors. Also on the My Computer Properties tab, it shows that I have two CPU's... one 3.20 GHz and the other changes from time to time. The last time I checked, it said 3.19 GHz, before that it said 2.80 GHz.
I'm not sure if this is related, but when I run SETI on boinc(which is set to run 100% of available procesor cap) it only runs on 50% and the rest is taken by the System Idle Process.
Also, the on the Task Manager screen, when I right click on a service/program, I have the option to set the processor affinity, to either CPU 0 or CPU 1.

So my computer is acting like it has two cpu's, where it has only one. This started only yesterday(as far as I KNOW).

My question is, is this some kind of misconfiguration(ALTHOUGH i did not change any system settings), a virus, etc , and how to fix it.

Thanks in advance for any help.
COULD you post a screen shot??? What kind of virus protection are you using??? This may very well be a virus, but I have yet to see anything like that.Is this a duel-core system? Are you sure? Show us your machine's specs you saw when buying, if you have them. Quote

Could you post a screen shot??? What kind of virus protection are you using??? This may very well be a virus, but I have yet to see anything like that.

Well, I'll try to give you as MUCH info as possible.. I have an old mp3 player which I now only use as a 64 MEG flash drive. It' called the Creative MuVo. Lately, I haven't been able to access the "removable disk" under my computer. When I plug it in, it seems to recognize that SOMETHING has been plugged into it (my pc), but it either gives me three beeps then does nothing and shows nothing, or gives me the found new hardware: stmp3410. Then it tries to auto download somthing, then, doesnt SEEM to find anything. This has never happened before. Is my flash drive broken? Or is there something Im now doing wrong? Any help would be appreciated.The only thing I can think of is that maybe you need to update usb drivers for your motherboard, or maybe It came with drivers itself(I doubt it) that need to be updated. Other than that, this is the best advice I can give.Also I should add, I tried on other computers and got the same results.Your flash drive maybe damaged also.Thats what Im assuming, Im just wondering what the "stmp3410" means. That MUST mean its not COMPLETELY destroyed.Either you need to configure your firmware and drivers for the computers you tested it on or your flash drive is plain damaged.

http://www.lexar.com/support/faqs_jumpdrive_music.html Quote

Also I should add, I tried on other computers and got the same results.

Thats what Im assuming, Im just wondering what the "stmp3410" means. That must mean its not COMPLETELY destroyed.

Quote

Also I should add, I tried on other computers and got the same results.

If it doesn't work on any computer it would indicate to me that the drive has issues. Luckily they are pretty cheap.

Quote

Thats what Im assuming, Im just wondering what the "stmp3410" means. That must mean its not COMPLETELY destroyed.

Who made that up?  

I'm working on an EMachines T2080 here.  L7VMM board, AMD Athlon XP 2000 1.67GHz, 512MB PC2100, dual HDs, DVD, CD-RW...

On startup, nothing goes to the screen, the monitor doesn't even go from orange light to green light.  (Monitor tested and works on other machines).  I've added a video card, nothing happens.  Switched out power supplys and nothing.  Everything seems to be working, all fans are spinning, all cd drives open on command.  No recent changes were made to this machine.

Am I correct in assuming it is either the processor or motherboard?

I don't have any spare compatible boards or processors.  I figured that a bad hard drive, cd drive, or ram would not cause a blank display.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Hoop2077Did you disable on board video in the bios.I'm unable to get into the bios.  The monitor doesn't do anything at all.  But it does work on other machines.

Hoop2077Unhook everything except the CPU/Fan, 1 stick of RAM and the video. Does it have ONBOARD video? If so use that. Make sure all connections are secure and then try that.  Does it POST at all?

eMachines have notoriously weak power supplies that frequently take out the motherboard or more when they fail. Was there ANY difference at all when the new power supply was added? What make and model is it? Was it new?I've switched out the power supply with a known working 300W Powmax with the same results.  The monitor doesn't display a THING.  Also switched out batteries on the motherboard.

UNHOOKED everything except CPU/Fan, 1 stick of RAM and the video(onboard).  All connections seem secure and clean.  Same results.

Thanks,
Hoop2077 Quote

I'm unable to get into the bios.  The monitor doesn't do anything at all.  But it does work on other machines.

Hoop2077

Hello again
I have  four usb sockets and three of them WORK ok, the other nothing seems to work on it,
can anybody advise me
I now theres is very little infomation but i am not sure what to show
I already have Everest, which part of it would you like to see ( there is that much)not sure
EagleZip the WHOLE thing up and attach it here.Hope this works
Were all 4 ports working at one time?  Is that computer a factory-made model or a CUSTOM build?  Did you build it?  Have you looked INSIDE to computer to try to determine whether any USB wiring might not be properly connected to the motherboard and/or the USB port?Hi soybean
Quote

Were all 4 ports working at one time

Is that computer a factory-made model or a custom build

Have you looked inside to computer to try to determine whether any USB wiring might not be properly connected to the motherboard and/or the USB port?

I started up my external hard drive, and there was a power failure whilst it was loading onto my computer.
Ever since that has happened, everytime i connect this external hard drive, it eventually, not immediately, crashes my computer.
ANOTHER symptom of this problem, is that when i open my computer, or control panel, or some similar window, it takes a MINUTE to load onto the screen.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advanceSystem specs, please...reformat the external driveThe Computer spec is:-
Pentium(R) 4 CPU 3.2GHz,
2 GB RAM
Running on Microsoft Windows XP
Service pack2

External Hard drive.
Freecom 250Gig  I've never heard of a Freecom.

Can you test it on another machine? I agree that a diagnostic from the manufacturer would be a good thing to do, if available, and the drive can get up and running. If it passes, a format would be the next step. Quote

I've never heard of a Freecom.

Since you have removed it from it's caddy try hooking it up as a slave on IDE 1...

Try another USB device as well in the same slot ...does it work ? ?

I connected another hard drive via usb/ide connector and it crashed.

When I began to upgrade a PC decided to add 128M memory to the 64M exixting, performing 192M. When I started COMPUTER, only 64M was read. Next I exchanged 64M with 128M, I mean, the former gone to the #2 slot, the later to the #1.  Now the reading was 128M
Affraid of some kind of lack of compatibility, I changed the 64M memory for a 128M one, to acchieve a grand total of 256M
Reading: only 128M!! :-/
It seems to me that only the slot #1 is working, or is seen by the mother board
I have read something about memories X BIOS, but I do not know exactly how to use this.
I  would like of some kind help, please
PC uses a M748MRT M.Board, pentium II 450M, FSB 66/100, up to 3x DIMM memory, MAXIMUM of 768M
Thank you in advanceThere is a difference between low density (older chips) and high density (those that are being made today) chips. Sometime the HD chips don't work at all, or they cause an incompatibility with what is already in there.

Also, the PC Chips board is always suspect, and may just need to be replaced.

So let us know the history of the board AND the RAM and how you know it is compatible.Please: What kind of information should I give about this MB and memory ? [smiley=dankk2.gif]DLoad and run Everest Home and post a log here...I have Dloaded Everest (is it the same Aida??) and saved it in a CD. I'm not in front of the "victim". As soon as I see it I'll run Everest and will post the logfile.
Thanks for now [smiley=bath.gif]As mensioned before, I' sending a log file after Everest inspection. I hope this can bring some help. Thanks We'll leave the light on...I'll stick with my first response.  For the sake of clarity for me: do you think there is a problem with the Mother board? Everest seems to be a very powerful tool, but I do not know how to see the true tru it... I mean: what was seen by you so you could emit this opinion? (I'm trying to learn more)
Regards [smiley=shocked.gif] [smiley=shocked.gif] Quote

There is a difference between low density (older chips) and high density (those that are being made today) chips. Sometime the HD chips don't work at all, or they cause an incompatibility with what is already in there.

Also, the PC Chips board is always suspect, and may just need to be replaced.

So let us know the history of the board AND the RAM and how you know it is compatible.

the floppy on my computer does not detect the floppy disk when i turn the computer on it says ADVANCE logic HARDWARE failure cannot find als120 what does this mean and how can i fix this problem please speak englinsh i am not familiar with COMPUTERS send PICTURE that will help as to how the floppy drive should be connected in the computer  :-?Do you have an Advance Logic ALS120 sound card?  Is the floppy drive an external drive?  Do you have Advance Logic ALS120 sound card DRIVERS on a floppy?  So you have at one time dis-connected the floppy drive and now it doesn't work ? ?

Did it used to work ? ?

I did something really stupid.

I accidently plugged an AC adapter into my external hard drive. It went on for a few seconds, I went to turn it BACK off and then pop! A bit of smoke and a smell came from the back.

What did I do? Did I just ruin the hard drive completely? Or just the part that would turn the drive on. Are all my files on the hard drive gone?

Please, anything you can do to help is much appreciated!WWWWWWWWhy would do something like that you just cooked your harddrive???That's it? All my data is gone?Most likely unless you WANT to take it apart and take the disks(if disks are in still in good condition) out and put them in another harddrive(exactly same brand with same harddrive SPEC) and try to recover the data from there. Other than that I would say to GET a refund or exchange of the harddrive from whereever you purchased it. My guess is that the motor in your harddrive is fried.You can remove the drive from the enclosure and then try to slave it into a working computer to see if it is functional at all.

It may be ruined, but the data may be salvageable. Quote

A bit of smoke and a smell came from the back.

Hello folks wonder if you can help. just got tyan tiger mobo with 2x xeon processors. press start button clicks into life little led counter sticks on e2 and machine beebs.monitor does not come on with a start up screen. got as far to find out CPU's need initualising. no obvious jumbers etc. can ANYONE help please, Davidplease be more specific

i did look up some thigns on a board i THINK is yours a product code like Tyan Tiger i7505 or something

The E2 code may have something to do with he RAM, its very picky i guess but i cant guarantee this info because i don't know the MOBOs MAKE and modelyes sorry, tyan tiger i7505 (s2668) AGP, 5x PCI slots, Xeon processors are 2.8Ghz,533Mhz FSB, 512KB L2 Cache. it is running with 1gb ram installed. if you need more info let me know. thx for your assistanceAny beeps...if so how MANY ? ?Well yes it does when it finds the code they are short in alternating sound like a two tone siren.  I thought it may have somethiing to do with one strip of RAM will this board need it fitted in pairs? Many thanks for your help and ADVICE.  Thx

Hi everyone. I have EPSON Stylus C43SX. I came to know that it is possible to refill the cartidge although it is non-refillable. Refilling is performed in two steps:
1) Refill the Ink USING siring.
2) Reset the chip

I am not able to find Chip resetter hardware. So I just want to know that is there any SOFTWARE chip resetter. Without resetting, printer does not accept the cartidge.
Please TELL me if there is another method to refill ink.
I shall be very thankfull to you.
..:: DWThis can void your WARRANTY and ruin your printer. Just so you know.

ok A: i'm new here... HI!!!! B: my floppy drive isn't in the My Computer on my deskop
i'm running WindowsXP and it goes so far as to that it doesn't even recognize my floppy drive so i can't tell what brand it is but the problem is that i'll put a floppy disc in and then go to my computer to go to drive A: (the common drive letter for floppys) and it's not there and it's not under anyother drive LETTERS either because i've checked... so if anyone could please help i WOULD appreciate it!What happened prior to this? I am assuming that it used to WORK so something has changed.

Is the floppy seen in the BIOS/Setup screen? Is the floppy seen in Device Manager?yeah it was working before i moved then i set my computer back up and bam... it didn't work my computer brand is Medion and running Windows XP Home (not pirated i did that genuine check thing)
and like i said i stick in a floppy disk and it doesn't even know it's there. not in the device manager or nothing. well in Device Manager it has a Standard Floppy Controller but theres no updates i've uninstalled it and reinstalled it and it still doesn't work...Time to recheck all of the connectors for snugness. A move can SOMETIMES knock things loose.alright thanks for the help.

I splited my HDD (Samsum 80GB SATA) into3 partitions (NTFS), WinxpSP2. Then I installed and removeed many different softwares, I access HDD with HirenBoot CD 8.0 by PQ Magic 8.5 . But have error, I can't see    paritions which I created. (I want split more paritition for Linux).
(Now, I only know a only way is format my HDD, but if I do so, I'll lost all data).

Somebody HELP me? did your make the partion then format it???  thats the only way i THINK you make the partaition then format the partition then you can use it

also i recommend getting  larger hard drive for XP2 if your making more than 3 partitionsThis sounds like a total DISASTER.   Quote

This sounds like a total disaster.  

Last night I put TOGETHER a new machine. I took the hard drive from my old machine and put in in the new machine. I then booted up and got the error "cmos checksum error defaults loaded". The machine would then take me to the screen ASKING what mode I wanted to run Windows in and when I chose a mode, reboot itself.

After browsing through forums I came to the conclusion that I needed to reload XP on my new system machine because it finding it on the hard drive. When I cam home from work today to do so, the power supply wasn't working. The lights on the motherboard work but nothing else happens when I try to power on the machine. Below is my system. Thanks!!


DFI LANPARTY UT nF4 SLI-D Socket 939 NVIDIA nForce4 SLI ATX AMD Motherboard
eVGA 256-P2-N443-LX GeForce 7300GT 256MB 64-bit GDDR2 PCI Express x16 Video Card
AMD Opteron 150 Venus 2.4GHz 1MB L2 Cache Socket 939 Processor
Kingston ValueRAM 1GB (2 x 512MB) 184-Pin DDR SDRAM DDR 400 (PC 3200) RamThat machine needs a BRAND new shiny CMOS battery part # CR 2032...dis-connect all power before replacing it and take the neccessary anti static precautions...

Remain apprised of your motherboards limitations and fiobles .

I have a GTX 1070 and on a lark I ran GPU-Z a few days ago. I noticed that it was showing the card as using PCI-E X8, rather than PCI-E 16x. I suddenly remembered that my Motherboard Manual specifically mentioned that populating both x16 slots would reduce both to 8x; I had a sound card in the second PCI-E 16x slot. I "knew" about this limitation but I suppose it never occurred to me until I actually checked GPU-Z and pieced it together.

I didn't think this affected performance very much. I wanted to remove my Wireless card anyway (no longer needed, as I'm using Wired Ethernet) and decided I may as well rearrange the sound card to use the x1 slot that the wireless car was using while I was in there.

Afterwards I decided to see if it was worth it and use 3DMark to test it again. Maybe a 10% difference at best.

Boy was I wrong- The scores were a little over double what they were before! Everything was already running smooth as silk sheets, but now it was like doubling the thread count.The GPU-Z and CPU-Z utilities are a must after building a system or upgrades.

I found out with GPU-Z that my card wasnt what i thought it was. I thought my GPU's clock was 902Mhz and it was only 700Mhz

Quote

Significantly higher effective memory clock speed    5,012 MHz    vs    1,600 MHz = Around 3.2x higher effective memory clock speed

Higher clock speed    902 MHz    vs    700 MHz    = Around 30% higher clock speed

Significantly higher memory clock speed    1,253 MHz    vs    800 MHz    = More than 55% higher memory clock speed

More shading UNITS    384    vs    96    = 288 more shading units

Before I proceed, is there anyone overly familiar with them? I have to go look at one, then I will come back with a better report. It is a WASP label maker. I apologize but I don't know anything beyond that yet.  Ok gang, here's the low down.

It is a Wasp WPL606 Industrial Barcode Printer. When they go to print, they are getting a paper jam error. Then they go to manually feed the paper and get an overheating error. Yesterday, we had a power outage and some think a power surge might have done some damage, but it is plugged into a good  surge protector. So far, I have unhooked and unplugged it then let it sit for a bit (over night actually). That didn't solve the problem. Just now, I cleaned the rollers with alcohol and we're waiting a bit then trying it again.

Anybody have any ideas?I don't know anything about them but I see that an ONLINE seller I'm familiar with sells them.  Might be worth looking at TigerDirect's offering for that label printer; it's here:        
Wasp WPL305 Thermal Label Printer With Peeler

Edit: OK, I did not see your second post until after I intially made this post.  Now, I think I misunderstood your original post.  Did you mean that you were going to shop for a label printer or go look at one that might be DAMAGED to try to determine what is wrong with it? Quote

Edit: OK, I did not see your second post until after I intially made this post.  Now, I think I misunderstood your original post.  Did you mean that you were going to shop for a label printer or go look at one that might be damaged to try to determine what is wrong with it?

My mother's GOT a HP-Pavilion dv-1000 laptop. Our kitten somehow MANAGED to pry off the "2" key, and one of the tabs is busted on it. Can't get it back on. Unfortunately, our warantee company defrauded us and refuses to repair it, claiming their insurance was only for desktops, even though it's rather clear that it's covered in the contract. (They are refunding 90% of the warranty costs.)

Now, we need to buy a new keyboard for that laptop, and we don't have a clue how. Anyone know how? Nothing much came up on Google, just people complaining about their broken keyboards.http://www.impactcomputers.com/367778-ad1.htmlIt says on that site 60 bucks. If I were you, I'd DEAL with the broken key (it still works if you press on that space right?), and not waste the MONEY. Or, try to press that warranty issue. Some ideas from a novice.$60!!! Why not try to get one from eBay or something?Nothing found on ebay fellas...

How's about this one...man, you guys are cheap!!!

http://www.amazon.com/Keyboard-Compaq-Pavilion-DV1000-367778-001/dp/B000KJS6DY/ref=pd_rhf_p_1/102-1961413-4963322We'll look into that, thanks. EDIT: I'm sorry, I phrased my initial question WRONG. We don't know how to install the keyboard in question once we get it.
[edit]Oops, wrong button...[/edit]Anyone in your area savy enough to do it for you to save some bucks?  It's not that difficult...if you know what you are doing.

If you have to pay to get it done...find out what they charge.  Otherwise, see if you can get a tech manual and do it yourself.  Will see if I can find a tech manual and post it here.

Here ya go:

http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c00444244.pdf

Good luck!

Thanks to TRACK for the USEFUL WEBSITE he gave me, i have found just the pefect motherboard which supports both AGP and PCI-E 16x. But in the cpu supprt list it is written that it supports Pentium 4 3.4 ghz 945. I wanted to CONFIRM if this is the Pentium D 3.4 ghzThere is no Pentium 4 945, the highest Pentium 4 is 670.

What motherboard is it?Thanks TRACK. Really you have been great helper. Thanks alot.

Hey guys,

I have a TOUGH one here. I have a good background in pc troubleshooting, but am stumped over a solution to this problem.

A couple of days ago I linked up a KVM switch with my HOME pc and another I was cleaning up for a friend. I have worked with KVMs for a while now, so I know everything was hooked up correctly. As soon as I haad everything linked up, I powered on and immediately got error messages saying something along the lines of "Unable to display image with current settings". The older(friends) pc I noticed had a lower display resolution selected than my monitor (Dell LCD) could apparently handle (something below 800x600). Shortly after I began getting a similar display error on my pc. After trying to fix the display settings with little improvement, I decided to end the KVM nightmare altogether in order to make sure my pc was still ok.

I disconnected the KVM equipment, rebooted my pc, and found that at startup it was almost as though my video card (PNY nVidia GeForce4 Ti 4600) drivers were either not loading or were uninstalled. The black/white initial startup screens had vertical elongated dots up and down the screen over the whole screen about an inch or so apart. The Windows loading screens COLORS were skewed/discolored as windows attempted to load.

The screen would then go black, as it briefly does when it transitions to the login screen. But then instead of the next screen coming up, the screen stayed black and after a couple seconds my monitor would go to standby(amber light instead of green).

The only way I could then get into windows was thru safe mode. Once in, the display looked worse then it typically would with strange yellow and blue shadows around the icons. I then updated the video card driver/DirectX with the same result. I was basically down to uninstalling the driver and that enabled me to boot normally into windows.

After many attempts at newer/different video drivers, unseating-cleaning-reseating the video card, CHECKING all connections, and normal/safe-mode virus and spybot scans I am all but out of options. All attempts to install a new/different driver result in windows not booting in normal mode. As I write this I see some of the letters I have typed are blue, while others have a yellow, smudged shadow effect on or near them, lol! Also, when I move my mouse around, it leaves yellow tracers on the screen that form vertical yellow lines about a half inch apart. These would cover the whole screen if I "scribbled" with my mouse over the entire screen. (sounds crazy, i know) These will vanish if i switch between windows.

Anyway, through this entire process I am getting closer to buying a new video card, because I can't take the abuse anymore.   I apologize for the lengthy description of the problem, but it's kinda tough to explain without seeing it first hand.

Thanks all in advance!! This post is my last option... :-/i have seen this before actually

was this a home built computer or did you buy it

if so what is the make and model and then what is the CPU make and modelIt is a home-built Intel P4 1.8GHz with 512MB which was built at least 4 years ago with the same PNY GeForce4 Ti 4600 card. This is the first time I have had a problem with it...hrm ok a few options

1.  if you still have your friends comp put your graphics card in there (if possible) see if it still does it
if it does teh card is bad adn there is littel to nothing i can do sorry
2. Did your mobo have onbaord graphics try that if it does and its the same problem the CPU is bad


the problem i ran into was just like this aside from the yellow cursor thing and it was a bad CPU we had to replace

hope this helpssounds almost like RAM issues...i guess anything is possible but i am really doubting its ram because

if ram goes bad it usually just BSOD not graphic errors but who knows stranger things have happenedWell, turned out I didn't have an old video card around to see if that truly was the problem.  So, I dropped some spare credit at Newegg (cuz they freakin rock!) on a cheap replacement (actually quite a bit of an upgrade too! -  BIOSTAR GeForce 6800XT 512MB 256-bit GDDR2 AGP 4X/8X) in order to try to keep this relic going before I commit to a PCI-E system. I am now crossing my fingers in hopes this solves the problem...

Kinda funny, after I placed the order, realized I maybe shoulda tried a fresh xp install in the event something may have gotten corrupted in the OS files???

Anyway, let me know if ya think this new vid card is a worthy replacement, good brand?

Thanks again, everyone, for your input and possible solutions to this problem! I will post my results after I install the new card.  This card can be AMAZING or really bad it depends on what your doing with it

For jsut basic internet, ms word, some tetris and email and stuff thsi card is way more than you even need

For gaming its a little under par it will play some games on lower to medium qualtiy withougt lag but again it depends on the point of the card

Try buying an exteranl hardrive (or jsut back up your data)
and then do a re-format and re-install this will spead the computer up to i reccomend doing this like once a year or every two years anyways

hope that helped

I have just got a Toshiba Qosmio laptop with a 17" screen, which I am really delighted with. But no matter how I try to reset the screen I am getting distorted graphics with the widesreen display. Can anyone advise how to correct this please?Do you know what the "native resolution" of the screen is?
This is the resolution the screen was designed to be used at, because of the way LCD displays are made they do't look right at any other resolution.
Try CHANGING the resolution to every value from 1280x800 upwards and see which one looks right - this is the native resolution.
However, if you know it, just change the reoslution to that.Aha! That is better. I messed around with that to try and get the fonts larger and more readable. I need a magnifying glass now, it's so small. Thank you for that.Back again........... Now the native resolution is 1920 x 1200. I have gone into the Desktop properties and have chosen 'extra large fonts' which makes the desktop and taskbars, etc, very readable, but all other (such as this) is IMPOSSIBLY tiny. Would really appreciate how to enlarge it. ThanksNo problem, it's nice to hear a success.
As for the small fonts problem, what browser are you using?
If it's Firefox, hold Control and scroll the mouse wheel to change the size, or press the + and - keys whilst holding COntrol to zoom in/out.
If it's IE, change it from View --> Text Size.
Alternatively, use the magnifier under PROGRAMS --> Accessories --> Accessibility.
Hope this helps.In display properties, look in the apperance tab, and in the settings-> advanced area.

Bear this in MIND when buying such a high resolution computer in the future I included the text as well as the link to make sure you read the right bits.

SYMPTOMS
The typical resolution on most computer monitors is 96 dots-per-inch (DPI). Until recently, most computer hardware was not able to produce higher resolution, but this is changing. Several hardware manufacturers (especially manufacturers of laptop computers) are building computers that have higher resolution screens.

A user interface that was designed to look good on a 96-DPI monitor may not look as good at higher resolutions. Text and graphics that are small at 96 DPI may appear much smaller at 200 DPI. When the number of pixels-per-inch increases, the size of each pixel decreases. If you double the density of the pixels, the size of the text may be halved so that the text is no longer readable. As a result, Web pages that specify pixel sizes for containers and text appear half their size, and the layout around them is adjusted accordingly.
 Back to the top

WORKAROUND
Internet Explorer version 6 and later versions solve these problems by proportionally adjusting the scale on screens that have higher resolution.

Scaling is not a perfect solution. Embedded Microsoft ActiveX Controls, binary behaviors, and other elements that use Microsoft Windows Graphics Device Interface (GDI) calls do not scale well or do not scale at all. The GDI does not perform automatic scaling based on the density of the display.

Internet Explorer 6 (and later versions) automatically adjusts the scale on higher resolution systems when the DPI setting is higher than 96 DPI [highlight]and[/highlight] the UseHR registry value is added to the registry. (For higher resolution systems, [highlight]the manufacturer typically does these tasks[/highlight].)
 Back to the top

Changing the DPI Setting
To change the DPI setting on your computer, follow these steps: 1. Right-click the Windows desktop, and then click Properties on the shortcut menu. The Display Properties dialog box opens.
2. Click the Settings tab, and then click the Advanced button.
3. On the General tab, DPI settings appear in a list in the Display area. To change the DPI setting, select a size from the DPI setting drop-down list under Display, and then click OK.
4. Restart your computer to allow the changes to take effect.
[highlight]5. Add the UseHR registry entry:
HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main
UseHR= dword:00000001 [/highlight]

http://support.microsoft.com/?scid=kb;EN-US;Q820286Thanks for all that great info. Some of it I have tried with some success, and some I will try. The text is not unreadable, and not everywhere, just on some webpages, like this one. The magnifier is amazing. I have a friend who has had a stoke, with severe sight damage and he said last night he uses it. I am just getting my outdated glasses replaced and will struggle on.  I still love my magnificent computer, even with this minor flaw, and bought it for the beautiful high res TV and DVD picture, as well the large screen. One more thing..... Fed, could you please walk me through the useHR registry - like where I go to find it, etc? Thanks RobynCongrats on the computer by the way, Robyn, the Toshiba Qosmio is a nice laptop.
I almost bought one myself.
Glad you're pretty much sorted out now.
Finally, just to steal Fed's post (not really, please don't hurt me Fed)
To add this registry value do the following:
Go to Start --> Run --> type regedit and press enter.
You'll see an Explorer-style window.
Expand HKEY_CURRENT_USER by double-clicking on it or by clicking the plus sign on the left of it.
Then expand, in the same way, Software, then Microsoft, then Internet Explorer, then Main.
Right click in an empty space and click New, then DWORD Value.  Rename New Value#1 to UseHR, then double click it.  Edit it so the value is 1.
Hope this makes sense, and hope we were able to help.I have tried that, and  sadly no change................Have you tried changing the DPI as Neil suggested?
Quote

In display properties, look in the apperance tab, and in the settings-> advanced area.

My SH224-BB DVD-drive didn´t READ discs anymore and I  decided to TAKE this thing apart. Now when I got the case off, some WHITE rubber ring just fell out and I can´t figure out if it´s the RIGHT place for it: http://i.imgur.com/9K30iXi.jpg? I have tried it like that and it just fells off again.

I want to SOON start streaming to twitch from my xbox one through my comupeter using a elgato capture card. I need to know how much I need to upgrade my current computer and an ideal of what you think it would cost me.

Current Specs:
Processor- AMD Sempron(TM) 140 Processor 2.70 Ghz
Installed memory (ram) 2.0 GB (1.75 GB usable)
System Type- 64 bit operating syatem



I'm not real good with the hardware side of computers so please put it in dummy english. 


Any help I can get is highly appreciated!
Thanks!  That CPU is low end single core. I USE to run the sempron 140 2.7ghz and sempron 145 2.8ghz and I decommissioned those CPUs about a year ago in favor of dual and quad cores. I would suggest getting a quadcore for the system that is a socket AM3 CPU. I have a Athlon II x4 620 2.6Ghz that RUNS well. If you want to go all out on this and have best of best knowing what motherboard make/model you have you might be able to get a 6 core Phenom II for it, but not all socket AM3 motherboards support the 6-core. Your board however will support a Quadcore socket AM3 CPU, but id double check the CPU against the CPU support list to verify that its compatible with your current bios flash version. You might find yourself having to flash your bios to support some newer CPUs and they will require the sempron to stay in that board during the flash process. If you swap cpus and dont flash bios first if this process is needed, the system will fail to boot or boot with a crippled cpu with microcode error.

What make/model motherboard do you have and what is your budget?


If the board supports an additional 2GB RAM to bring you to 4 or even better if it supports 8GB that might be another upgrade, however you just dont want to put more money into it than what its worth, so knowing what you have for hardware and budget we can help you better.

Your motherboard is either a socket AM2+, AM3, or AM3+. Knowing the board you have we can LOOK at what CPUs and how much RAM is maximum. More likely for it to be a AM2+ or AM3 as for AM3+ is newer and rarely used with older sempron single core. the AM3+ can usually support an 8-core FX processor such as the FX-8350 8-core 4.0Ghz which I have one of.

Can i run some higher video cards on lower speed PCI-Express slots like 8x, 4x etchttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCI-Express
Quote

A connection between any two PCIe devices is known as a "link", and is built up from a collection of 1 or more lanes. All devices must minimally support single-lane (x1) link. Devices may optionally support wider LINKS composed of 2, 4, 8, 12, 16, or 32 lanes. This allows for very good compatibility in two ways. A PCIe card will physically fit (and work correctly) in any slot that is at least as large as it is (e.g. an x1 card will work in an x4 or x16 slot), and a slot of a large physical size (e.g. x16) can be wired electrically with fewer lanes (e.g. x1 or x8; however, it must still provide the power and ground connections REQUIRED by the larger physical slot size). In both cases, the PCIe link will negotiate the highest mutually supported number of lanes. It is not, however, possible for a device to operate in a slot that is physically smaller than it (e.g. an x4 card can't fit in a slot which is physically an x1 slot — THOUGH it could operate in a x4 slot wired with only 1 lane).

Hey.

I bought quite a few PC games to play over christmas. My PC met the recommended requirements yet all the games were choppy and really really slow. I think it might be my graphics card.... Basically I'm unsure which one I have!



I ran everest and it came up with what you see above. The numbers and letter also appear in my Device Manager window.

So basically I'd just like to know
1) How to nail it down and
2) if you think this wil stop the choppy graphics

THANKS in advance, Carlos.On board video...post the text ver of Everest and we can give you recommendations on what type of vid card you can add on...
Check your pocketbook first.A celeron processor is not meant for any decent games.

Integrated video is not meant for any decent games.

That's all I can come up with, as you didn't mention which games.

Details, details.Here's the txt version:
Computer:
      Operating System                                  Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition
      OS Service Pack                                   Service Pack 2
      DirectX                                           4.09.00.0904 (DirectX 9.0c)
      Computer Name                                     SN048287520382
      User Name                                        

    Motherboard:
      CPU Type                                          Intel Celeron D 341, 2933 MHZ (22 x 133)
      Motherboard Name                                  Unknown
      Motherboard Chipset                               SiS 661FX/GX
      System Memory                                     960 MB  (PC3200 DDR SDRAM)
      BIOS Type                                         AMI (07/11/05)
      Communication Port                                Communications Port (COM1)
      Communication Port                                Communications Port (COM2)
      Communication Port                                ECP Printer Port (LPT1)

    Display:
      Video Adapter                                     SiS 651_661FX_741_760_760GX_M661FX_M661MX_M 741_M760_M760GX  (64 MB)
      3D Accelerator                                    SiS 330 Mirage Integrated
      Monitor                                           Philips 170B (170B6)  [17" LCD]  (BZ  410738)

    Multimedia:
      Audio Adapter                                     SiS 7012 Audio Device

    Storage:
      IDE Controller                                    SiS PCI IDE Controller
      Disk Drive                                        ST3160021A  (160 GB, 7200 RPM, Ultra-ATA/100)
      Optical Drive                                     _NEC DVD_RW ND-3530A  (DVD+R9:8x, DVD+RW:16x/8x, DVD-RW:16x/6x, DVD-ROM:16x, CD:48x/32x/48x DVD+RW/DVD-RW)
      SMART Hard Disks Status                           OK

    Partitions:
      C: (NTFS)                                         146467 MB (96580 MB free)

    Input:
      Keyboard                                          Standard 101/102-Key or Microsoft Natural PS/2 Keyboard
      MOUSE                                             Microsoft PS/2 Mouse
      Game Controller                                   Microsoft PC-joystick driver

    Network:
      Network Adapter                                   Belkin 54g Wireless USB Network Adapter  (192.168.2.2)
      Modem                                             Smart Link 56K Modem


OK. My friend bought me Pro Evo 5, for EXAMPLE. The recommended requirements are:

Windows 2000/XP
Intel Pentium IV 1.4GHz processor
256 MB RAM
8X DVD-ROM Drive
NVIDIA GeForce 4 Ti, ATI Radeon 9600, or higher
DirectX 8.1 compatible sound card
DirectX 8.1 or higher (included on Disc 1)
Network(TCP/IP 1.5Mbps or higher)
3GB free hard disk space

SUPPORTED CHIPSETS:

NVIDIA - GeForce FX (5950, 5900, 5800, 5600, 5200), GeForce4 Ti,
GeForce3

ATI - Radeon x800, 9800, 9700, 9600, 9500, 9200, 9000, 8500

That's the main example.

Would I need to do much to get my machine up to spec.?

I didn't know I wouldn't be able to play decent games Hmmm, Google finds nothing on your Computer Name and your Motherboard Name is Unknown.   Did you post the whole Everest report?  Do you know the make and model of your computer?  

Do you know what AGP slots and PCI slots look like?  Have you ever opened your computer?  Ever installed any components?Here's the PC and where I bought it from
http://www.pcworld.co.uk/martprd/product/seo/As+Advertised/PACKARD+BELL/IMEDIA+1307/237541

I bought it about a year ago & it was £200 more expensive

I posted the whole of the summary yeah (apart from the peripherals).

Yeah I have opened my PC before, I was disappointed with the amount of RAM fitted so I put some more in. I don't know AGP or PCI slots, but I guess I could find them.

I'm sorry if this is wasted time. I just wondered if a graphics card update would help.  :-?According to the website you posted, you have 3 PCI slots but no AGP slots.  AGP was specifically designed for video cards and was designed for higher performance than using PCI slots for video cards.  So, that's a limiting factor on upgrading video on your computer.  

Still, I believe you would get better performance by installing a PCI video card.  But, as GX1_MAN said, a celeron processor is not the processor of choice for gaming enthusiasts.  If you want to take a look at some PCI video cards, here's one online seller's selection: Video / Graphics Cards  PCI Video Cards .  Thanks Mr. Bean.

I've been looking and reading a few reviews. I now realise that I should've bought one with a AGP slot

This seems to be the best PCI card I could find:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/XFX-FX5200-128MB-AGP8X-TVOUT/dp/tech-data/B0000TNZEY/ref=de_a_smtd/202-0536427-6605466

I don't mind spending another £20, but I really just want to know if the above is the right kind of thing. Thanks.Wait!  That's not a PCI card, it's AGP, as indicated in the title: XFX GF FX5200 128MB DDR [highlight]AGP[/highlight]8X TVOUT.  Here's a PCI card: Gainward GeForce FX PP PRO/660 TV-DVI PCI FX5200 128Mb.  Note: there's a discrepancy in the info on amount of memory on this card.  The title says 128MB but the detailed info says 64MB.  You might want to seek clarification on this, or assume it's 64MB.  Also note that this card has DVI connector.  If you need a VGA connector, you can get a DVI-to-VGA adapter; they don't cost much.

For a card with 256MB, see: XFX GF FX5200 256MB DDR PCI DVI/TVO

Here's one with a VGA connector and 128MB: XFX GF FX5200 128MB DDR PCI VGA/TV-OUT - LP VERSION

Nice one.

Last question(s) how do I know if I have a DVI or VGA connection and will the overall thing be difficult to connect?This web page, http://www.directron.com/dviguide.html, has an image which clearly shows VGA and DVI ports on a video card.  This should help with installation: How to Upgrade and Install a Video CardThanks.

OK so I opened up my PC and found the make of the motherboard. Here it is:
http://www.chiptech1.com/static/stats/MBU_223.htm

Am I right in thinking it has an AGP slot? Can I go ahead with a AGP card?

Lastly, my monitor does support DVI.If your motherboard is, in fact, the same as the one shown in the picture in that link, then, yes, you have an AGP slot and can use an AGP card.  The brown slot next to the three WHITE PCI slots is the AGP slot.This is pretty important when you go shopping...


Yeah, there was a brown slot. That's the motherboard, I'm certain.

This will honestly be my three last questions (you guys really are ace)

1) Could you recommend the best video card for around £50? I think that's around $80
2) Would I have to physically remove the onboard card or can I just disable it? It seems to be encase by other things.
3) Patio, when you say "this is important" do you mean the "I.5V" aspect? Is this something I woul have to consider wen buying a new video card?

Thanks.