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Hi guys,
trying to install a tv tuner on my windows media center , but after going through all the steps for installation . i am getting a message which says "CANNOT FIND TUNER CARD"
DONT KNOW WHAT IS WRONG. i HAVE
 CHECKED THE DEVICE MANAGER AND IT IS NOT INSTALLED. i AM INSTALLING A  TV WALKER lite. any help appreciated.

alli Did you install the drivers provided ? ? Quote

Did you install the drivers provided ? ?

The software contains TV / Video viewing feature, still image capture and motion video recoding to MPEG1/2 function.

After you download the NEW driver and application, you will need to run the UNINSTALL program from Start / Programs / LifeView TVR to remove previous driver and TV utility software. (TVR doesn't contain any driver, PLEASE download the driver seperately)

** If you upgrate the laster driver, please look this read me.

SPECS:
Motherboard: ABIT AW8D Socket T
RAM: Patriot SIGNATURE series 2GB DDR2 SDRAM Dual Channel (2x 1 gig)
CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 Contoe 2.4 GHZ
Thermaltake PSU 550w
Geforce 7900 GT 256 MB PCI Express x16
Seagate 120G hard drive, 500g Western digital HDD (Both SATA)
 
The Problem: First i plugged everything in and went to power it up, the BIOS shows a 9.0 which said Post passed and bios is ready to take over However the monitor light just stays amber.
Also my keyboard lights do not flash when i power the computer on.

Next I stripped everything down (just the CPU, Motherboard, RAM, and Video card and the same thing happened. The FANS light up and turn on no beeps from the motherboard but the monitor light stays amber. All of the components of the computer are brand new. I know its not the monitor becuase i used it on another computer. What do you think could be wrong?

Do you think that the Video card is not workingDo you have another video card to test with? PCIe or older PCI would be OK for this exercise.

Quote

RAM: Patriot Signature series 2GB DDR2 SDRAM Dual Channel (2x 1 gig)

If any pc game begines then what is the primary PROB vga or processorTry again wangming...What?i think he is asking what does the computer use most when booting games

the answer to that question is RAM and then CPU VGA ISNT until there are lot of graphics i mean its used but not very muchThis reply makes just about as much sense as the original post...How about complete SENTENCES, good grammar and some kind of specific question as a BASIS for getting an answer. Quote

How about complete sentences, good grammar and some kind of specific question as a basis for getting an answer.

Hi all,

A month or so ago I posted because I fried my motherboard and possibly my CPU.  Since then I have been getting parts to build a new machine and I have one question maybe someone can help me with.  

What I bought so far:
  
   Pentium Core2 Duo, E6300, 1.86GHz processor
   Cooler Master Centurion 5 CAC-TO5-UW case
   Coolmax SLI CXI-500B ATX v2.01 power supply
   Gigabyte GV-NX76G256D-RH GeForce 7600GS 256MB PCI-E video card w/ Silent Pipe heatsink

I had a couple different motherboards in mind but I think I'm going to WAIT for an Nvidia 650i SLI board which should be coming out soon.  The 680i's are already out but I really don't need that much firepower at that price.  I'm not a big gamer and not an overclocker....yet...lol.  One reason to wait for the 650i is that it has 2 IDE connector's as well as the SATA's so I can use my ATA hard drives as well as my CD/DVD drives.  Which leads me to this question:

Is it feasible to just install the Maxstor 80GB hard drive I have now (running Windows 2000, SP4) and would there be a lot of pre-install work to do?  Or would it be better to get a new SATA drive (looking at a Seagate 7200.10) and reinstall Win2k?  I have a lot of CAD stuff and utilities that would be a pain to reinstall.  Would a Ghost image work on a new drive or possibly the Disk Wizard that Seagate has which TRANSFERS the old drive CONTENTS to the new drive?

Anyone see any potential problems with either direction I go?  I'd like to go the easiest possible route but not if it's going to screw things up for me.  Thanks in advance.The 7600 GS is not a good card price/performance wise.
I suppose if U already have the 7600 GS, u could buy another and have them work together in SLi, but its a waste of money, because for the price of 2 of these u could have gotten a much better card, and then bought another after some time has passes - thats the whole point of SLi, buying a single card that costs like 2, and then another identical card after a while.

You can buy an extra PCI, IDE connecter and have as many IDE slots as u want.As major components are being replaced thr Ghost image might not run properly on the new rig. I have seen this fixed however with a repair install of Win2k.

If you do a clean install of Win2k on the Sata you should be able to run all your APPS that are on the IDE drive.

But i would try ghosting the new drive to see if it works. If not you can format and do your clean install and then add your old drive as a slave.Thanks, Track.  I guess I should have posted this question earlier but I guess I can always upgrade as I go along  

Thanks, Patio.  I might try ghosting first and if it protests too much then do a clean install.  I'll find out when I try it, I suppose..lol

Any thoughts about the PSU?  I had someone tell me today that it might not run this system good enough. Quote

Thanks, Track.  I guess I should have posted this question earlier but I guess I can always upgrade as I go along  

Thanks, Patio.  I might try ghosting first and if it protests too much then do a clean install.  I'll find out when I try it, I suppose..lol

Any thoughts about the PSU?  I had someone tell me today that it might not run this system good enough.

I need a good motherboard which supports pentium D as well as AGP 8X graphics card. But the mobo should PERFORM well. thankshttp://images10.newegg.com/UploadFilesForNewegg/itemintelligence/NI_Motherboard/NIC-Buy-Intel_Compatible_Motherboard_Buying_Guide-v1.0e.docHow much do you want to spend?  The price range is wide.

Go shopping here: http://www.newegg.com/ProductSort/SubCategory.asp?SubCategory=280&name=Intel-compatible-Motherboards

Read the specifications to be sure the motherboard is compatible with the processor you have or are getting and has an AGP slot.  And, read through the reviews.

Here's an inexpensive board with AGP: BIOSTAR
BIOSTAR P4M80-M4 Socket 478 VIA P4M800 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail I'm a bit partial, but I have had lots of good luck with Gigabyte motherboards. Quote

I need a good motherboard which supports pentium D as well as AGP 8x graphics card. But the mobo should perform well. thanks

Hi. Is there a way to build a laptop and save money like a DESKTOP? How much would a:
Pentium III (any speed)
256MB RAM
20Gb hard drive
DVD-ROM/CD-RW
Wireless G
decent graphics
touchpad
any sound (anything from soundblaster 16 to Xfi fatal1ty)
cost? Ebay is out of the question. It can be used but only if there are fewer than 10 dead pixels, no major scratches, no missing keys, no faulty components... And it MUST be from a well-known retailer, not an ebayer. If you can build a laptop, where can I find parts?No, you cannot build a laptop. eBay is probably your best bet, or classified ads in your city, or a pawn shop, etc. A "major retailer" will not be selling used equipment most LIKELY.Do you know about how much I would NEED for a laptop like that?$250-350 probably for decent equipment in good working order. Onboard sound will be what you get. It would be soundblaster compatible, but no way to modify that further. If you get a T model Thinkpad, for instance, it would be Linux compatible, if that is a concern. Dells are usually good too. Other makers may have issues with Linux. What would be the purpose of the machine? What operating system are you planning?Just a simple system for everywhere I can't bring my PC. Playing DVDs, listening to music, playing a few light-games, browsing web, word processing etc. Basic stuff. I'm planning a dual-boot windoze (98 or XP not sure yet) and linux (k/xubuntu again, not sure).

OK, I did some research and came to the following conclusions:
$190 - HP omnibook, CPU: 800MHz, RAM: 256MB, HDD: 20GB
$190 - IBM thinkpad A20M, CPU: 700MHz, RAM: 512MB, HDD: 30GB
$225 - PANASONIC toughbook CF-72, CPU: 850MHz, RAM: 256MB, HDD: 30GB, touch-screen
$230 - IBM thinkpad T20, CPU: 750MHz, RAM: 384MB, HDD: 20GB
None include Wifi or AC adapters. I'll have to buy both seperate. Shipping is figured in price. Add $100 for
AC adapter and $35 for WiFi. Which one would be best?

OK I did some more research. Found one WITH the AC adapter:
$220 - IBM Lenovo A21M, CPU: 800MHz, RAM: 256MB, HDD: 20GB
I have a feeling something like that would be better.You don't want to buy a laptop without it's proper AC adapter...soo... I should get something like this:
P3, 800MHz
256MB RAM
20GB HDD
AC adapter
battery
No major scratches
What graphics chip will it most likely have? I do intend to play SOME games. Very simple ones, but 3-D. I need at LEAST 8MB (preferably 32MB).You'll be lucky to get anything over 8 meg in a laptop of that vintage. That's what the T20's have, for instance, although they play DVD's just fine. (No Core Duo or fancy video card needed for that after all!)

Where are you getting these from? The seller is everything. As Patio said an adapter is necessary, and the right one is imperative. If the seller doesn't have one how do we know it works?  :-?The below is a reliable place.

http://www.computer-show.com/commerce/index.jsp?czuid=1164587113735I'm gonna need at LEAST 8MB; I WILL be playing SOME games. Very basic though. What do the T21's have? My limit is $240. The only place that has those prices is ebay.   I'm not actually buying them yet. I need to get the money first. Is there a specific seller that you would recommend? I'm going to make SURE that it comes with an AC adapter, battery, expansion port, and has no major defects (keys missing, lines in screen, broken DVD-ROM etc.) I'll most likely get a T21. Anything else I should consider?T-20 through T-22 were virtually the same with the exception of processor. T-20's had a 700 P-III and the T-22 a 900 P-III. PM me if you are interested in a T20.Do you think that a $220 to $240 T21 will work fine? Is it likely a scam? I'll only get ones with pics of it on, which include AC adapter, guarentee on battery, no major defects. What Do u think?If this is on eBay post a link and we can advise.http://cgi.ebay.com/IBM-ThinkPad-T21-P3-800MHZ-256M-20G-DVD_W0QQitemZ300053768945QQihZ020QQcategoryZ140083QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemSomthing like that. As I stated earlier, it will be months before I have the money.That SEEMS like a reputable seller. He requires immediate payment, though.

Was wondering if anyone knew of a system voltage monitor program that will log voltages or show a minimum/maximum for the 5 volt? I know there are a bunch of programs that will show a realtime display of voltages, but I want to be able to catch the condition and then look at the log for voltages and see if there is a dip detected that is causing USB devices to disconnect.

It started at FIRST at the front ports of the computer and I figured well I will connect direct to the USB port at rear of the computer in case there is a current dip across the cable to front panel USB. I use a 64GB USB stick as a extended storage to my SSD, and have some symbolic linking to this 64GB USB stick. When the USB drops this stick it breaks stuff. I tried with a different USB stick thinking maybe the USB stick was the cause so I grabbed a 32GB stick and populated it with the data that is at the symbolic link targets. Then the problem happened again.

So its not the USB stick, its either Power Supply, Driver, or Motherboard is finally getting tired after 7 years of use. I suspect a dip in the 5 volt power but LOOKING at voltages everything looks ok with realtime, and I dont want to watch paint dry to wait for the USB stick to drop out and try to catch it with my eye for voltages. I figured there must be a logger or min/max voltage log available maybe?

I could just shotgun the problem and swap out the power supply, but the power supply otherwise is fine. System boots fine, system doesnt crash, the condition with USB dropping out is not when gaming or anything in which a heavy current draw would point to power supply.

The motherboard is a Biostar MCP6PB M2+ with nvidia chipset. http://www.biostar.com.tw/app/en/mb/introduction.php?S_ID=387
Power Supply is a Thermaltake 460 watt... This one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153022

*Also to mention, no other devices connected to USB so I am not loading down the USB BUS power in any way. As well as computer is connected through a battery backup (UPS 750VA) so it shouldnt be a dip in line power as the cause.

5 Volt shows 4.99VDC which is within spec. +/-.02 volts ( 5.01-4.97 observed )Control Panel/Device Manager/ right clik all USB Hubs / Power Management...is allow Win to turn this off to save power checked ? ? Quote

Control Panel/Device Manager/ right clik all USB Hubs / Power Management...is allow Win to turn this off to save power checked ? ?

SYBA USB 3.0 4 External Ports PCI-e Controller Card with Molex Power Feed, Etron Chipset Model SY-PEX20136

So I  believe I have resigned myself to the fact that I must replace (or temporarily use a usb keyboard) my acer laptops keyboard. The reason I'm putting this post up is because I have a series of questions. The way things started I had a difficulty with my operating system and on my hard drive (recently upgraded windows 10 from . Due to the many errors and finally not being able to use my touchpad to scroll on pages I wiped, formatted and performed a clean install of W10 from a usb drive. The laptop did fine for a few weeks and then began having problems with the audio (randomly not being able to find the icon on the task bar ect.) I tinkered worth settings and software ect and eventually solved the error. Next my wireless network adapter began randomly booting me and disabling its self. I  tinkered with that device similarly. Last after shutting the laptop to attend to something else I open it to find my MOUSE was responding so I restarted it. it worked fine for long enough to spill some water on the board THOUGH.  (I hastily dried it and shutdown) I wad able to power on a couple days later and it seemed like there was no issue then my system froze due to a cpu overload i believe. I rebooted and the mouse was working but the keyboard wasnt functioning correctly. I was able to force it (by getting perfect timing on the f2 key) into a reset and did another clean install of W10... I was only able to navigate the set up with the only SCREEN keyboard. after clumsily getting to the desktop I went to the keyboard settings ease of access to try and work out a solution because the only screen keyboard wouldn't work right unless I was pressing a key on the hard keyboard as well. I was able to determine that worth filter keys enabled the only screen would work correctly and with a keyboard test app I learned that my end key was "stuck" and no amount of physical input made any progress. Well  I ended up falling asleep and my computer hibernated and I  couldn't log in so I figured I'd just reset again and change the default value to no passwordto resolve the anomaly but a power issue interrupted the process and now I can't get any keys to respond in any way and I'm stuck in a boot loop. Anyone have any insight into my series of UNFORTUNATE events?Too MUCH random stuff happening to give any real insight.  Spilling water on the keyboard may or may not have damaged the motherboard.

Personally, I would try buying a replacement keyboard from Ebay.  You can get them fairly inexpensively and (on most laptops) they are very easy to swap out.  Once you changed the keyboard, try another clean install of the OS.Bex89,
Do you have another computer?
It would be a good idea to have anotgher computer that you can use to verify observations. In general, a desktop PC will give better results tahta laptop. Often yu can buy a critified reconditioned desktop PC for a very low price.  In your area yhou might find a monitgor for a lowprice. Otherwise, monitosrs are expensive to ship.

Having two computers with the same OS lets yu experiment with settings to see how much the OS is part of a problem.

A bad keyboard would likely cause all the conditions you mentioned...
I'd use an external for the time being whilr you shop for a replacement.

What are the APPROPRIATE MEMORY of the PC



What?        What PC.... depends on make/model

You have 2 GIG of RAM in that PC...

Getting a noticeable hum from my old rig - HP a1600n who had her 10th birthday on Oct 10. I suspect it is the PS begging for mercy. I make a fresh back-up image every week so I am not worried about catastrophic failure. I have done a few repairs (new HD, optical drive and graphics card when on-board graphics went bye-bye) over the years even though some of you advised against spending money on such an old rig. A couple questions: Is there any reason to replace PS before it fails, eg prevent collateral damage or a fire hazard? What is the best source for an aftermarket PS? Thanks.Are you sure its the power supply and not a off balance cooling fan? Power supplies when they are begging for mercy usually make ticking sounds vs a hum. I have an old eMachine that is about the same age as your computer and it hums because the CPU heatsink fan is dying. Motherboard has shut off temp threshold set up to shut the system down is it gets too hot as well as if the FAN tach is not reported it will shut down as well to protect itself.

Backup Images can be bad sometimes.... reason being if your power supply fries the main board, you would need to find another same exact motherboard or computer of similar model with same exact motherboard to restore the image too. People can have their data held hostage by the inability to get their data off the image. I have been involved in helping people get their data back after say an old AMD Computer running XP died. They had an image with all their data on that image. The image utility they were using did not have a image viewer/data extractor utility like Ghost Explorer etc. I was paid really well to take their image, force it to different hardware, and then perform a Windows XP Repair installation to force their image to take to drastically different hardware, went from a AMD Duron CPU system to a Intel Pentium 4. Once I did this I was ABLE to have direct access to their data and burn the data to DVD-R's. The client was VERY HAPPY to get their data back. And it even progressed from there as to them needing more than that. They had software installed to this AMD Duron system that was VERY COSTLY, the system was highly configured and very important. They really needed their computer back the original computer alive again, I ended up selling them the Pentium 4 computer migrated from the AMD to the INTEL, and then later selling them on the idea of virtualization. Ported an image over to Virtual PC 2007. They liked having the old system as a virtual system with Virtual PC 2007, able to run the new laptop, and bring up the old important system for running the software that cost thousands of dollars. Last i knew they were still using this virtual system. Told them that as long as they dont run both systems at the same time they can run it this way but they cant run the virtual copy of the physical system at the same time.

So while images are good, they are not fail-proof. Data that is important should be stored to cloud storage or external media where its easily accessible by yourself. This way the data is not held hostage to an image file and matching hardware, or having to find a image file explorer like tool if one exists to extract data. Images are great for quick restore of a system that is corrupt or copying to same exact hardware when prior system is completely dead to be back up and running, but data itself should be backed up in ADDITION to the image, so the image is really just a means of getting OS and software back on computer and the normal non-image backup is to have immediate access to data if you need to use a totally different computer.

*Your lucky the motherboard still works with integrated GPU dead. Friend of mine with nvidia nForce 430 GeForce 6150SE cooked his integrated video playing World of Warcraft for about 8 hours straight on day off. It killed the board as for the chipset is the heart of the motherboard. Ended up having to install a new motherboard and real video card with a cooling fan on it. He also took the time to upgrade from Athlon II x4 620 2.6Ghz to a Phenom II x6 2.8Ghz. Told him the CPU he has was plenty, but he wanted the Phenom II x6 ( 6-core ) CPU. I got his Athlon II x4 620 quadcore for free when offering to buy it from him for $50 6 years ago. Still running this CPU, but its showing its age especially when the 8-core 4Ghz I have is so much faster with multithreaded applications/games.I agree with DaveLembke.

There is not sure way to predict a PC failure. If you hear a noise if-may be from a fan. If so, just fix the fan.

Here is information that is often ignored. The CPU ans chip set have a failure rate above what most of use expect. In fact, the failure rate  pf CPU and chip set  the is almost on a par with some other things, like HDD failure. But do not expect a warning.

If the problem is the CPU, just replace it. But  if it is in the chip set, you must get a new motherboard.
Dave, I recently replaced my SIL's 12 year old HP PC operating on Win 7 with a new HP loaded with Win 10. I used a Macrium Reflect image of old PC to load all of her data onto the new machine. It never occurred to me that you can not use a Macrium Reflect image to back-up data. Thanks for the heads-up. Quote

I used a Macrium Reflect image of old PC to load all of her data onto the new machine. It never occurred to me that you can not use a Macrium Reflect image to back-up data. Thanks for the heads-up.

After you have created an initial full image, you can create differential and incremental images. These are both quicker to execute than full images and create much smaller image files.
Note: With the Free Edition of Macrium Reflect you can only make full and differential images of your disks and partitions.

I use felt washers on any HDD mounting screws...
Small rubber ones will do in a pinch.

Older drives tend to vibrate more...causing the case resonance...

An easy test for this is unplug just the power cord to the drive and power up...is the noise gone ? ?

Buying a computer for my mom, and will hook up optimum on line (for her internet access so there is no more dial up connection for her)  The minimum system requirement is a 166mhz pentium processor. Will a Celeron or AMD processor be equivalent to a pentium for this hook up ?? ThanksExactly what do you have now for a processor?please also be advised that it is recommended that you have at least 128mb ram when using broadband as you said "Buying a computer for my mom, and will hook up optimum on line (for her internet access so there is no more dial up connection for her)  The minimum system requirement is a 166mhz pentium processor". If using Windows XP you are barely able to run the OS so more memory WOULD do the trick.Any of those will work. Broadband does not require a POWERFUL porocessor for basic activity at a quick speed. Indeed the type of internet connection is MORE important than processor.Any AMD ATHLON or Sempron, or Pentium or Celeron should be sufficient. The Pentium 166 is so old and slow, you would NEED to go out of your way to get it. Quote

Any of those will work. Broadband does not require a powerful porocessor for basic activity at a quick speed. Indeed the type of internet connection is MORE important than processor.

Buying a computer for my mom, and will hook up optimum on line (for her internet access so there is no more dial up connection for her)  The minimum system requirement is a 166mhz pentium processor. Will a Celeron or AMD processor be equivalent to a pentium for this hook up ?? Thanks

I have an old system (Win98, 4 gig drive, 196 MB RAM) that I am trying to install an old Sound Blaster Card on.  (Can't find newer sound cards that run on 98).

Windows auto detects the card fine and appears to install the correct drivers but I still get no sound.
Device manager sees the card as SB AWE 64 which is the correct model.
No conflicts are listed
I also tried GETTING the driver from this site but am not sure if it was the right driver. (there were many matches all by different file names)
Creative doesn't support the card any more, but I've found several matches for drivers for it there as well.
Does anyone know the exact driver to use for Win98?

P.S. this is the 3rd differnet Creative card I've tried to install.  Is there something else that needs to be done besides selecting the driver in device manager.

Another thing, I only get sound (pops and clicks) when plugging into the jack on the card
The speakers worked on another PC with INTEGRATED sound.


Thanks for helping me revive this old system.  (For my daughters learning games)

Are there any #'s at all marked on that card ? ?First make sure that if there is onboard sound that it is disabled in the BIOS.

The drivers, if not on the www.creative.com site can be found at www.driverguide.com

You have to register, but it is free and painless. Then you can sort by operating system, etc. for just what you need. It is best if you have the exact model number CT-4780, etc. which should be on the card OR you can download Everest HOME and get it positively identified.

http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.html Quote

I have an old system (Win98, 4 gig drive, 196 MB RAM) that I am trying to install an old Sound Blaster Card on.  ([highlight]Can't find newer sound cards that run on 98[/highlight]).

Windows auto detects the card fine and appears to install the correct drivers but I still get no sound.
Device manager sees the card as SB AWE 64 which is the correct model.
No conflicts are listed
I also tried getting the driver from this site but am not sure if it was the right driver. (there were many matches all by different file names)
Creative doesn't support the card any more, but I've found several matches for drivers for it there as well.
Does anyone know the exact driver to use for Win98?

P.S.[highlight] this is the 3rd differnet Creative card I've tried to install[/highlight].  Is there something else that needs to be done besides selecting the driver in device manager.

Another thing, I only get sound (pops and clicks) when plugging into the jack on the card
The speakers worked on another PC with integrated sound.


Thanks for helping me revive this old system.  (For my daughters learning games)

100MB available HDD space

I have a NEC Versa Note Vx P3-500 mhz, 128 mb, and running on windows xp pro.  I'm having a difficult time making the internal speakers work for this LAPTOP.  Originally it was pre-installed with Windows 98 and they said the speakers were working, but upon upgrading to XP it doesn't work no more.  some other FUNCTIONS also on keyboard no longer function too.  I tried updating the system drivers over tHE NEC webiste but still nothing works.  any idea how to make these speakers work on winxp.  I would appreciate any idea.

MikeIt may not be the speakers, it may be the sound CARD does not have drivers loaded, or even available for XP. You should look in Device Manager for problems and post a lot more information.

Is a Sony PS4 500gb a computer just like if you went out and BOUGHT a new dell optiplex?No, it's a video GAME CONSOLE, it's not designed for general purpose computer use.

I have a Dell XPS 8700, and I'm currently looking to upgrade the graphics card and power supply. I've been having issues with GAMES freezing and I want a better graphics card anyway because the 750 Ti just isn't doing it for me. I know I want to GET a GeForce GTX 1060, but I am unsure of which power supply I should get. I don't trust the default Dell PSU. My case is ATX so I'd like to get a smaller PSU if possible so there's no issues with space. I'm unsure of which brand I should get and what wattage/voltages I would need. I'd at least like an 80 Plus Gold rating. Also, which 1060 brand should I get? Should I go with a blower-style card to reduce some heat in the case, or just stick with the regular?

Specs:
Intel i7-4790
16GB DDR3
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 750 Ti (currently)
Seagate 2TB HDD
Dell 0KWVT8 Motherboard
Dell 460W PSU

Please let me know if you need more information, and thanks to everyone who takes the time to help me with this!The 1060 recommends a 400 Watt power supply, but you are smart to not trust the OEM PSU to deliver on it's rating. the PSU is usually the first thing that get's skimped on for pre-built systems, so they can put the money towards components to use as system bullet points.

Really it's hard to go wrong with most REPUTABLE brands. Just from my own experience, I've purchased a number of Corsair and EVGA power supplies and have had no issues with them at all.

Some Examples:

EVGA 500+ Bronze

Corsair CX500.

For a bit more you can also get a MODULAR power supply. Very useful as it avoids having a bunch of wire spaghetti all over the case, since you only plug in the cords you need.

Another concern could be the length of the card. I found when upgrading from a 770GTX to a 1070GTX the 1070GTX was actually too long to fit; I had to remove one of my hard drive cages and re-arrange some of my internal disk drives to make space. For a XPS 8700, it looks like (based on some pics) the drive cages at the front might not designed to be removable which could complicate installation. Quote from: BC_Programmer on December 01, 2016, 09:35:32 PM

The 1060 recommends a 400 Watt power supply, but you are smart to not trust the OEM PSU to deliver on it's rating. the PSU is usually the first thing that get's skimped on for pre-built systems, so they can put the money towards components to use as system bullet points.

Really it's hard to go wrong with most reputable brands. Just from my own experience, I've purchased a number of Corsair and EVGA power supplies and have had no issues with them at all.

Some Examples:

EVGA 500+ Bronze

Corsair CX500.

For a bit more you can also get a modular power supply. Very useful as it avoids having a bunch of wire spaghetti all over the case, since you only plug in the cords you need.

Another concern could be the length of the card. I found when upgrading from a 770GTX to a 1070GTX the 1070GTX was actually too long to fit; I had to remove one of my hard drive cages and re-arrange some of my internal disk drives to make space. For a XPS 8700, it looks like (based on some pics) the drive cages at the front might not designed to be removable which could complicate installation.

Hi all,

I am using an ASUS laptop running Windows 10. Issue I am having is a PERSISTENT restarting of my laptop on its own -- roughly 2-3 times a day. It most often occurs within 10 seconds after I unplug from the AC, or if I am moving the laptop around. However, the problem has also occurred when it's been plugged in, though less often. A couple times it also restarted within a few seconds of replugging into the AC after using it on battery.

Does this sound like a hardware problem?

I have taken out the battery and left the laptop plugged in per a suggestion I RECEIVED to see if it's a battery issue. Since then, it has only spontaneously restarted once (early on within a few hours) and it's been almost 3 days.

Any leads would be much appreciated, thanks. What does system EVENT logs show for error if any recorded there? Any additional info such as when this all started anything specific happen that lead up to this such as laptop DROPPED, hit floor or anything? Quote from: DaveLembke on November 30, 2016, 10:29:03 PM

What does system event logs show for error if any recorded there? Any additional info such as when this all started anything specific happen that lead up to this such as laptop dropped, hit floor or anything?

Memtest86 should be run on this system. Also make sure RAM is properly locked into the slot(s) if accessible to verify. Some laptops are easy to confirm and others require just about complete disassembly to get to the RAM. I wouldnt disassemble the laptop to get to the RAM unless you know what your doing. The freezing before reboot wouldnt be a loose power connection but more likely the cause of RAM issue or main board issue. Hopefully just a failing RAM stick that can be replaced. Memtest86 would point out if the memory of the computer has issues.

Have you ever added any RAM to this system or RAM upgrade?

http://www.memtest86.com/

I'm currently using Nvidia GT610 which is ddr3 type memory. And i want to know whether i can use ddr5 gpu on the same PCI-express slot?Yes.Just WANTED to note that depending on what you have for a motherboard you might be throttled by the PCI Express slot if its an older PCIE 1.1. If its 2.0 or 3.0 you will have BETTER performance. What make/model is the motherboard?

* I have also had an issue with a PCIE 3.0 video card not working properly in a PCIE 1.1 slot. Black screen no picture is the symptoms. If I installed a older PCIE 2.0 video card it works no problem. Most PCIE 3.0 video cards will work with 2.0 and 1.1, but some don't play well with 1.1. I have yet to find a PCIE 3.0 card not work in a 2.0 slot, but 1.1 had issues with a Radeon HD 5450 1GB which is PCIE 3.0.You won't have any problems. Go ahead. Quote

You won't have any problems. Go ahead.

And i want to know whether i can use ddr5 gpu on the same PCI-express slot?

Is it possible to add extra ram for this laptop? I read on internet, that it's possible and some people SAY it is not.. how do I know? When I checked in store on TASK manager it says that from 2 only 1 ram slot is in use. (store sellers didn't know anything about this)

laptop - http://www.pcworld.co.uk/gbuk/computing/laptops/laptops/asus-eeebook-e403-14-laptop-grey-10137495-pdt.html?awc=1598_1484092884_8fe9edd234fbf231bc47094a58cee1ec&srcid=369&xtor=AL-11&cmpid=aff~Skimlinks~Editorial%20Content~78888&awid=78888From what I can find the laptop only has one RAM slot.I'd be surprised if it even has a physical ram slot, machines like that with the basic Pentium Nxxxx processors and eMMC storage almost always have soldered RAM.  They are essentially the same hardware that you would find in a low cost Windows tablet.On the Asus website for that model: Memory : DDR3L 1600 MHz SDRAM, up to 4 G.  I interpret that to mean that it can be purchased with up to 4G of RAM but that doesn't mean that a model that came with 2G can be upgraded to 4G.No you can't. As i saw both ram and storage are soldered to the motherboard. Quote from: strollin on JANUARY 11, 2017, 04:59:41 AM

On the Asus website for that model: Memory : DDR3L 1600 MHz SDRAM, up to 4 G.  I interpret that to mean that it can be purchased with up to 4G of RAM but that doesn't mean that a model that came with 2G can be upgraded to 4G.

No you can't. As i saw both ram and storage are soldered to the motherboard.

Hi, im going to buy 2 of these: https://www.pccasegear.com/products/35002/lg-34um58-p-34in-ultrawide-ips-led-gaming-monitor
i have one of these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125787
 
the problem is that these monitors only have HDMI inputs and this GPU only has one HDMI OUTPUT. and i any adapter i look for like a  male display port to male hdmi have a max resolution of 1920x1200 which is too low for the monitor. is there anything i can do?There are display port adapters...the resolution/quality you get depends on your card/vid chip...all the adapters i can find have different supported resolutions annoyingly. do you happen to know any GOOD ones that might be capable of the required resolution?

http://i.imgur.com/ERI5hDJ.png
http://i.imgur.com/IHXfKYQ.png
http://i.imgur.com/jLt1QxM.png

Hey guys, I've POSTED my problem around and no one seems to know what's going on with this. A few days ago my keyboard's space bar stopped working. I'm USING a Logitech K800 wireless. I took it back to the store to exchange for a new keyboard, same model.

With the new one, the space bar still doesn't work but I'm 100% sure the problem isn't mechanical, because pushing the bar still does something.

It highlights/unhighlights text in text boxes in my browser (Chrome). When I click out of a text box and push it, it highlights those three little dots in the upper right hand corner of Chrome.

I tested IE to see if it was an issue with my browser. Pushing space in IE just TOGGLES the menu bar to show or hide.

In Notepad, it highlights the File menu. But it won't type SPACES.

How can I get my space bar to type spaces again? I have no IDEA how I messed this up, but copying and pasting every space is driving me insane. If anyone can help with this, I would seriously appreciate it...Move any other wireless devices away from the PC to test...try a different channel if the mouse has that option...I forgot I remapped the darn key from the first keyboard, and never set it back. *shakes head at self*

Problem solved, PEBCAK error.

Howdy, folks!

This is the first time I'm building a computer. And I WANTED to know what PSU you would recommend me. I will be using my computer about 8-16 hours a day and use a normal keyboard and mouse. I was recommended a Thermaltake TR2 500W before, but they're hard to find and I'm looking for alternatives in the same price range (50-75 euro)

I've got:
CPU - Intel Core i5-6600K
CPU Cooler - Cooler Master Hyper T2
Motherboard - MSI Z170A SLI
RAM - G.Skill Ripjaws V 1x8GB 2400Mhz
Storage - PNY CS1311 480GB
Graphics Card - Gigabyte Windforce 1060 6GB OC
Case - Corsair SPEC-01

Thanks in advance!!I prefer Corsair CX Bronze 80 power supplies. This might fall within your budget. Id personally go with a 600 watt PSU for that system even though the 500 watt is a match. The Video card specs call for 400 watt minimum according to newegg. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125879 You can find out everything about PSU's at JohnnyGuru. I bought a brand that's also built by Seasonic, saving $, but you can't go wrong with specific reviews, learning about technologies USED. There should be a 'tier' list HELPING you find best models in your price range. Very helpful b/c not every model by a brand is built by the manufacturer or source.

I think it's alright to name Johnny's even if I don't post a link  They are the pros from Dover on Power Supplies.

Hope that helps,

CapCourageousLook at the warranty.  It is impossible for a PSU to be better tan the warranty. 


Quote

Look at the warranty.  It is impossible for a PSU to be better tan the warranty.

I have a HDMI FreeSync capable MONITOR and FreeSync is enabled in monitor settings, but under Radeon settings panel, it says "Not supported" under FreeSync option. I am running latest Radeon version 16.9.2. I also don't seem to be able to enable FreeSync In-Game on GAMES that support FreeSync.
The GPU is compatible with FreeSync "All AMD Radeon™ graphics cards in the AMD Radeon™ HD 7000, HD 8000, R7 or R9 Series will support AMD FreeSync™ technology" - AMD
GPU: r7 265
Monitor: C25F591
OS: Windows 10
Answered this yesterday in Chat...it'll only work at 60MHZ on that monitor...I said that's fine, the problem is it's not working at all. Then either the card don't support it...or you should uninstall and re-install latest ver. of FreeSync...

Cause we've established that the monitor does somewhat support it.

If you guys had around $500 to buy the best possible combo of Motherboard+CPU+Memory What would you get? And also just Motherboard+CPU (Since i have 2x 8gb DDR3 memory almost new)? Thanks in advance¡!¡Thinking you might have forgotten to add the GPU to this equation? What type of processing do you need it for?  $500 can be spent in 3 ways, ( maximum CPU,    balance between CPU and GPU,    or maximum GPU processing power). Quality of components is assumed to be best you can get for your money as well. However if your interested in cutting corners with not top of the line quality you can specify that and lower END components can be used as suggestions such as a Biostar brand motherboard vs a ASUS or Gigabyte better quality components for VRMs etc.

How is this system going to be used?

Quote

Maximum CPU would be if your doing calculations that dont tap into GPU processing etc. Non Gaming.

Balance would be if you want an all around use system. Casual Gaming.

Maximum GPU would be if you want best graphics and video processing and dont mind a CPU that runs in the 90-100% use that is a combination that the CPU is not a bottleneck to the GPU processing. Squeezing that $500 to get maximum gaming performance now for a specific game knowing that future games will require a better CPU upgrade; however a graphics artist wouldnt need to upgrade CPU as soon.

Yet again, our budget build is an AMD-based system, and just as well—at this price point, AMD offers incredible performance bang for the buck.

I know lots about computers but need input on Dedicated Graphics for gaming... I got $600 absolute max to spend on a laptop and I was gonna buy a current model and have decided that current models are too much and an overkill for the games I wanna play..... I will not be buying any AMD Graphics or AMD CPU since I think they are crappier (some of you may love them and I respect that) and they're not my strong area... I know Intel and Nvidia better... I will not be getting any 10 series GTX cards as they are also out of budget and overkill for GTA SA and GTA 4 (maybe GTA 5 in future)... I was wanting to if I can get away with a 7th gen intel i7 and Geforce 940MX or should I go with a 5th gen i5 and Geforce 840M both with 8 or 16 gb of ram and SSD or if you have any suggestions please leave them! both computers are 14" models.... seems dedicated graphics only mostly come in 14" and 17" laptops and not so much on 15" laptops

would really love to hear your recommendations and suggestions! You seem to know what you want. I wont talk you out of a i7 in favor of a i5. However if your trying to stretch that $600 budget to the max, you could always go with a refurb laptop which will come with a good warranty if purchased from a trusted source and you might be able to get a $800 laptop for $600 or less.

As far as Intel vs AMD and nVidia GTX vs AMD RX series. It pretty much comes down to what your budget allows, benchmark figures, and if saving a little here can be used elsewhere to stick within budget and have everything you ever needed. The biggest thing is what brand products are carrying these CPU or GPUs. I dont just buy any cheapest brand for video card etc, I buy trusted brands. Same goes for the motherboards that pair up with the CPU or APU if cutting corners with integrated graphics.

As far as gaming laptops go, I stay away from MSI for their entire line of products. I have been burned by them and friends have too. I have yet to hear that they cleaned up their QUALITY issues with their products. MSI has gaming laptops and you might find some. If you want to get one its up to you, but just saying, so many people have had issues with them.

Before your purchase I additionally suggest to look online for reviews. See what other people have to say about the product. Is it 4 or 5 stars or 3 stars or less with people waving their arms with their complaints saying STAY AWAY from this product etc.

As for going with 14" display, that saves in not going with a LARGER screen and so it helps with STICKING with your $600 budget. You might find a deal with a larger display model, but most with larger displays come with a premium above that of smaller display laptops.I don't really like MSI anyways... I was gonna go with a base level computer and upgrade it with parts when the time comes... the one with GTX 940MX is brand NEW even though I would have to save about $100 after selling my computers and the one with 840M is a used computer....

I wanna know what would be the best dedicated nvidia video card in a laptop for my needs... what would be the best for the price and performance?  I'm thinkinking of going wth an older card but what one? Quote

I was gonna go with a base level computer and upgrade it with parts when the time comes

To me it sounds like you are describing laptop systems- Mobile  GPU chipsets (840M) and size specs ("both computers are 14" models"). Very few laptops have upgradable Graphics; the graphics chip tends to be soldered onto the mainboard. RAM and Hard Drive tend to be the only components that can be upgraded on a laptop- you'll be "stuck" with everything else.

as far as ram and HDD I'm just going to get 4 or 8 GB to start with (whatever is lowest amount for the system I'm getting) and a 500 GB HDD...  all of that will be upgraded soon after I buy the machine.

Just wanted to state that you want to be really careful when buying a laptop with say only 4GB RAM... I have had to assist people who have bought laptops that need to then upgrade to 8GB and they find out that their laptops that they bought can only handle a maximum of 4GB. So be sure to check on the maximum memory spec for the laptop to avoid this trap.

Sorry unable to answer your question about 15watt U series with gaming... someone else might be able to. I have yet to own any core i7 systems. I have two 6 year old Thinkpad Core i5 laptops that I like and they are older 520m 2.4Ghz. I have gamed lightweight games and the Intel HD graphics was ok, but not anything with crazy frame rate impressiveness.

What game titles are you going to play on the laptop that are 4 to 6 years old?

Here's my situation.  My g/f schoolmate told me her computer stopped working.  It is a compaq persario r3000.  I don't know the RAM.  It has a AMD 3300, i think.  Basically it won't boot up.  When turned on the screen with the big compaq design comes up and you are given the options to either change the boot order or enter the set-up screen.  Instead of GOING to the xp loading screen it goes BLACK.  It doesn't turn off, the screen is still powered just not displaying anything.  However the machine is completely silent.  I guessed that the hard drive had died or wasn't been "seen" by the computer.  But just incase I tried using my knoppix live cd to see if it was a windows PROBLEM.  It read the cd and started to load but then died.  I assumed that it was because knoppix (or the version I was using) might require more RAM than the machine had.  So i used a DSL-live cd and it worked.  It brought up the desktop and looked just like it should.  I could not mount the hard drive at all.  It was like it wasn't there.  And the machine was totally silent, which.  This further comfirmed my idea the it was a hard drive problem.  I aked the owner about it and was told that the computer didn't exhibit any common hard drive failure symptoms (no grinding, or clicking, or inceasing sound).  She said that it wen from normal to unable to start up over-night.  My question is this: is it possible that whatever cord connects the hard drive to motherboard (sorry if that doesn't make sense i know more about desktops than notebooks) is lose or fried?  And if so is this fixable without losing the computer and/or info on hard drive.  The laptop is still under warranty but I would assume that if she sent it into compaq they would just replace the Hard drive with out trying to get the info off.

Thanks in advance
First off, good for you for trying a Linux LiveCD!

The hard drive is INDEED connected similarly to a desktop, just smaller. The only thing you may be able to manipulate is the connector from the motherboard to the drive itself.

Is the hard drive seen in the BIOS? If so, you could try running the free diagnostics from the hard drive maker's site, or SeaTools from the Seagate site if not sure.

Backing up the DATA across a network, or to a CD/DVD would be the best possible thing, because they absolutely will not save your data when replacing a hard drive. You could also get an adapter and slave it into a desktop machine IF the drive is not totally FUBAR'ed.

If the data is critical you could try a data recovery service, but that is expen$ive.Thanks for the advice.  I think I going with the adapter slave desktop method, since I have some adapters at the office.  However I have a feeling that the drive is totally gone.  Luckly if it is the data on the drive for the most part is no critical.  And no the hard drive is not seen in the BIOS.Sounds dead, then.

i ran into a rather tough problem with the modem of a toshiba SATELLITE a105-s101 laptop. the laptop has a toshiba software modem by agere.

normally i connect to the web via dsl. but when dsl is down, i use dialup. at the start everything worked fine. then several months ago, the modem started acting up.

the phoneline i use for dialup has an extension phone. whenever i try to connect using the dialup, you can hear the extension phone ringing (dialing to be more precise). after a minute or so, you get the MESSAGE "no DIALTONE". i tried disconnecting the extension phone but i still get the same message.

i checked device manager for the modem properties. it says the device is working properly. i tried a different phoneline but the same message comes up. i already tried checking if there's a problem with the phone. i connected a different pc and attempted to dialup. it worked just fine.

i uninstalled the modem driver then re-installed it. i even loaded an updated driver from toshiba's support site. i still get the same problem.Try running the phone LINE directly from the wall jack to the PC...nothing in between...make sure it is plugged into the correct modem port...then post your results.

and similarly whats the result if the FSB of the motherboard is HIGHER than that of the CPU used. When is performance maximum. What if the FSB of both is the same.If the FSB on the board is SLOWER the CPU will run at that speed...

If the CPU speed is higher than the boards it will still run at the boards speed...

Ideally of course they should both match but it doesn't happen all the time.means that i have DELL 266MHZ max pro support 333MHZ it can run 400 mhz pro but its speed will 400 orlessthen 400 or will it is also detected by the PC or not Quote

means that i have DELL 266MHZ max pro support 333MHZ it can run 400 mhz pro but its speed will 400 orlessthen 400 or will it is also detected by the pc or not

Wangming means

What could be wrong with my CDRW drive?  I push the open button and nothing HAPPENS, except you can hear it try to open and the light flashes.  So, I open it thru the emergency hold in the front.  Once I get a disk in it .. it acts normal.  It will open and close as normal.  Take the disk out and the door locks.I have the same issue from my CD Drive also.

I was wondering. How old is the CD Drive? When was the last time you used it?

I haven't excatly pinpointed where the issue is comming from but it seems like my CD Drive get stuck comming out if I rarely use it. I try to clean the dust out everyday but it seems like more grow on it.

You have an emergency door open that sounds cool. I have to move my CD Drive left and rightor up and down ( the door) untill it gets unstuck and ejects. The funny thing is once a CD is in everything works fine untill it settles again.CD-RW drives are going pretty cheap these days...I'd just consider REPLACING it.TO Windows 98... there is a small hole right around the button on the drive.  If you use a pin or staraightened paperclip you can release the door by pushing the pin thru the hole and apply some pressure.  You should feel the lock move.  The door may or may not open slightly.  If it doesn`t open slightly you still should be able to pull it open. Quote

What could be wrong with my CDRW drive?  I push the open button and nothing happens, except you can hear it try to open and the light flashes.  So, I open it thru the emergency hold in the front.  Once I get a disk in it .. it acts normal.  It will open and close as normal.  Take the disk out and the door locks.

That's mostly it. A while ago, I saved some old family photos on to floppies. I just found them the other day, and I tried opening them. Most of them worked, but a COUPLE, seemed to have picked up the file names on other floppies in the group, and the FILES dont work. I tried opening it in photoshop, and GOT a message saying they were damaged. Then when I clicked ok, I got about a tenth of the picture at the very top. Now, in the folder that holds all of the PICS on the floppy, when I just click once on a picture that's "damaged", the whole picture COMES up on the bottom left hand side near the details. Does that mean its not completly lost? Any help would be great, these are very important pictures to me.nobody has any ideas for programs that could help restore them?PC File Inspector Recovery...

Can anyone give me some compatibility info for uk computors shipped to canada.

I understand a new PSU is required for the MAIN components but I'm wondering if the monitor is power compatible with canada if fitted with the appropriate power lead, and would the same go for the printer? The monitors I have are a gateway and acer input power for both reads ac 100-240v 50/60htz.

Thanks
jezguyWhat sort of Computer do you have?It's a PC not a Mac, really it's the monitors and printer power supplies I need to clarify. I know some computors have a switch apparently to go from 220v to 110v. I actually fitted the Zalman PSU myself so I'll check to SEE if this has one somewhere.
Any other related compatibility with Canada info will be appreciated, such as cd/dvd drive issues perhaps, or anyone with shipping info, or long term use of TRANSFORMERS?

I'm FINDING this kind of info hard to come by for obvious reasons, but please only post replies if you're sure of your info as guesses will only add to the confusion, cheers.

Thanks
JezguyEurope is 220 in most cases...what do you run in Canada ? ?

Any 1/2 WAY decent components including PSU's and monitors will have the appropiate switch.Thanks for that.

I did find a switch on my old PSU so I'll assume there is one on the newer more expensive zalman unit until I have chance for a look.

I have two flatscreen monitors, an acer and a gateway. Any idea where this switch might be (in or outside the casing) or will they be auto switched with the appropriate lead or adaptor when plugged into the canadian mains?

I have done some some searching but I guess this info isn't called for much.

Thanks againCanada is between 110V and 120V.

Hello,  my friend has just gotten a new fan/heatsink for his P4 processor  (Socket LGA 775)   and i offered to install it for him,   i have done this before and am familliar with the process,  but i have not "replaced" an already existing fan/heatsink   so i wasn't sure what to do about the leftover heatspreading substance on the processor.  should i carefully clean it,  and with what, or should i just put the other one on there,   notting that the new one has it's own fresh layer of the stuff.  
thanks for your HELP.

DoomsayerUse a razorblade or other fine edged instrument to carefully remove most of the old thermal pad/compound. Then, soak a paper towl or cloth with some rubbing alcohol and carefully wipe the REMAINING compound off.hey,  thanks for the quick reply,  just one more thing,   should i remove the processor or just LEAVE it in the mobo?I believe the best procedure is to remove the processor for cleaning.  Be carefull not to bend the pins on it.  Here's one reference on Replace a CPU's Heatsink and Fan which advises removing the processor.thanks a lot for your help soybean,  i greatly appreciate it.  

DOOMSAYER

So I built a new computer and pulled the hard-drive out of my old computer. Because I thought two terabytes would be better than one. Booted it up and it got stuck in a boot loop. Because it thinks it's still an HP. So I tried to install Linux, linux works but can't play games. And I got a boot disc burned and flash drive for computer to try and put Windows on it so I can play games. However it won't let me. I even tried unplugging the old hard drive and I guess the info transferred over to the new hard drive. Any suggestions maybe wiping the hard drive somehow?Installation of Windows Clean you should be able to have it detect prior versions of Windows and tell it to delete them and install fresh. Where did this boot disc and flash drive come from. To me it seems as though your not using a original OEM disc for Windows installation.

Additionally the EULA of Windows is non transferable and so the COPY of Windows from your old computer isnt suppose to migrate to your newer build. Microsoft has deemed that the Windows OS is paired with whatever HARDWARE it was activated originally with so when the hardware dies its also the death of the Windows Key. Most legal way around this killing of Windows Key is to STICK with same motherboard when a system dies in which its a repaired computer so it doesnt break the EULA.

Have to be careful about what I talk about on this subject. Chat of how to get around this EULA to make it WORK is not permitted here. If a new build, your suppose to get a new copy of Windows for it according to Microsoft.  Well I got it from the Microsoft website to try a fresh install and then enter a product key. But it's not working.Sorry to say that you might have to buy another copy of Windows as for that OS is paired with the original computer according to the EULA.

desided it's time to get my first Gaming Laptop and need help deciding on a gaming laptop.... and yes I don't have the room for a desktop so don't tell me to get or build a desktop i barely have room for my 61 key piano as is...

I don't play the most demanding GAMES (or many at all) the ones I would play most is GTA San Andreas and Forza (plus if it doubles for video editing that would be cool but not a requirement)

we all know specs are BETTER than branding so I will only list specs

Laptop 1: intel i5-6300HQ, Windows 10 Pro, 8gb of system ram, GTX 960M 4GB, 15.6" 1080P Display and 256 GB M.2 SSD

Laptop 2: Intel i5-6440HQ, Windows 10 Pro, 8GB of system ram GTX 940 MX 2GB, 14" 1080p Display and 256 Sata 3 SSD

Laptop 3 (if I can find one used! they are rare!): Intel core 2 extreme QX9300 Windows 10 Pro, Dual GEFORCE 9800M GTS SLI with total combined 2175GB, Max of 4 GB system ram 256 GB Sata (2?) SSD and 17" 1680x1050 Display

and as much as I would love a GTX 1060 is WAY more power than I will ever use and over budget by at least about $200
If we are looking purely at specs I'd probably be inclined to go with the top one due to the better GPU, the difference between the two CPUs isn't massive. I'd completely disregard the third one, far too old compared to the new ones above.

I get what you are saying about brand but it's still important to consider.  I've seen tonnes of gaming laptops where all the money is spent on the raw specs and the build quality/battery life ends up being shockingly bad so just make sure you check what you are getting.the upgrade for cpu in the first two are an i7-6820HQ although I have them spec'd with the base CPU since I think that's still more powerful than I will ever use but otherwise they are the same as stated, the first one already has upgraded GPU from GTX 960M 2gb to GTX 960M 4gb and the second one is maxed out from the Intel HD 530 to GTX 940MX 2GB

oops the second one is 14" not 15.6"Asus seems to be a popular brand. They make a wide range to suit various budgets.ASUS ROG G752VS-XB72K
17.3 inch IPS 1920 x 1080
2.7 GHz Intel Core i7-6820HK
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB DDR5
1 TB 7200RPM + 256 GB SSD/32GB DDR4 RAM

Refferal Link removed...

Dell PRINTER 948/Vista Home Premium

Printer seems to print but a blank page comes out.
There is ink in the cartridge.

Can it be determined which ITEM is defective?  ( Printer or Cartridge)

(Color Cartridge RAN out of ink a long time ago.)
(Old style Cartridge, Print head in cartridge.)  Have you removed the tape covering the print head?
Have you ran the clean print head feature?
Have you tried a DIFFERENT Cartridge?What is the model number?
How old is the printer?
Printers are now very cheap. Some under $35.

So recently my pc has been sort of crashing. It reboots on it's own. It happened once a while back and now the last couple of days it's been happening quite regularly, 2-3 times a day. It happens as SOON as I try to play Skyrim but other games run fine. It reboots while doing non gaming things as WELL though. What's most curious is that it sometimes fails to reboot, then it tries to reboot again and keeps FAILING until eventually nothing. As soon as I give it a light TAP on the side it boots again. This makes me think it's a loose connection somewhere but I wouldn't know where to look. 1) System Properties - Advanced - Startup & Recovery Options - Uncheck "boot on error"

2) Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the CONTENT, and paste it into your next reply==================================================
Dump File         : 100516-7534-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 05/10/2016 08:02:35 PM
Bug Check String  : SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION
Bug Check Code    : 0x0000003b
Parameter 1       : 00000000`c000001d
Parameter 2       : fffff960`000b4ae0
Parameter 3       : fffff880`0bef60c0
Parameter 4       : 00000000`00000000
Caused By Driver  : win32k.sys
Caused By Address : win32k.sys+74ae0
File Description  : Multi-User Win32 Driver
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7600.16385 (win7_rtm.090713-1255)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+6f400
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\100516-7534-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 8
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 406,968
Dump File Time    : 05/10/2016 08:13:17 PM
==================================================It looks like just one error. Was this the only error in the report?

What is new or different since the last time everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?
Have you recently added new hardware?
Have you recently installed or upgraded any drivers?
Please look in device manager - are there any yellow or red symbols?
What OS are you running?
See if anything here relates to you: http://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-1653284/fix-system-service-exception-bsod-error-windows.htmlYes it was.
Nothing really, the PC ran fine, then it reboot-crashed once, then fine for the most of it, and now it's doing it again and regularly.
Nope, nor replaced
Just the nVidea drivers
Nope, all fine
Windows 7 UltimateDid the problems start after you updated the Nvidia drivers? And was it just the display driver or is it an Nvidia chipset and was that also updated?If it's a vid-card you should use the drivers from the card manuf. site....

Newer drivers aren't always better drivers.No, I don't think so. I could be wrong but I highly doubt it, I'll update them regardless.


I'm thinking of just checking everything hardware to see if it's all connected properly. No idea what question(s) you are responding to. Quote from: Allan on December 04, 2016, 10:59:56 AM

No idea what question(s) you are responding to.

I am the owner of a Dell Dimension 8200 computer.  It has a 2.54mhz Pentium processor, 512mb of ram, and an older Geforce 4 graphics card.  I have had very few, if any issues with it until now.  I left my computer on overnight (it went into HIBERNATION mode) and turned the monitor off.  When I woke up this morning, I went to turn the monitor on and my computer was non-responsive.  The monitor gave me an error message of not RECEIVING a signal.  I attempted to restart my computer using the ctrl+alt+delete method and it was completely non-responsive.  I turned off my computer and let it set for about 10 minutes then I attempted to start my computer again.  Lights, fans, and even the LED lights on the back CAME on but the computer failed to boot.  The lights were literally on, but nobody was home.  I have opened up the computer and assured that all of the cards were snapped tightly in place, no cords loose, nothing seemed out of the ordinary on the motherboard either.  I removed the lithium battery for 30 seconds and replaced it.  None of these things seemed to help  :-/ .  Any thoughts?My thoughts are the same as yours, PSU issue.
When you boot do you SEE anything on the screen?My thoughts are to call Dell for a replacement power supply. Most of theirs are proprietary. You cannot just go buy one at the local computer parts store.

Hello,

Wondering if anyone can help me: recently my desktop just developed sound crackling/distortion through headphones and speakers (all audio devices work perfectly on other devices such as phones, laptops, other desktops...).

The crackling worsens when more work is being done, especially when playing a game e.g. Subnautica, Overwatch... or watching 1080p 60fps videos whilst performing other tasks such as updates. The lastest GeForce Game Ready driver is installed.

As well as crackling and popping sounds, the audio will sometimes stutter, speed up or slow down.

I recently upgraded from a 300W PSu to a 450W Psu, because I realised the instructions that came with EVGA Nvidia GT740 GPU advised a minimum 400W PSu and I was under the impression that maybe the PSu was straining.

No improvement. Was any damage already done? I was using 300W with this GPU for about 4 months before switching PSu's. The problem started about a week ago.

I've heard of a range of possible causes - from drivers being executed for too long, to the motherboard being on its last legs. I'm not SURE how to go about this though... I'm sorry if this should be in Software instead of Hardware. 

Hope this was informative. If you need anything else, please ask. All desktop specs are listed on my profile summary.

Many thanks,From dictation.
Hello, I see that this thread has been posted in hardware. Crackle snap pop noises in sound almost always come from some kind of hardware problem. So some questions about your hardware needed to be answered.
Is this computer one that you have built yourself? Or did somebody else assemble it for you? Either WAY, did this problem always appear from the beginning?
Let's just say that your video card is the problem. If so, then removing the video card and going back to built-in graphics should resolve the issue. Would you like to give that a try?
Now let's consider another way to prove that it's not software. If you're using Windows 10, you can make a portable Windows 10 operating system that sits on a USB drive. That option is called Windows to go. Look around and you should find it somewhere on your system.
If you can use that, reboot your computer and have it boot up Windows to go from the USB device. Then try listening to some music or watch a video. You should be able watch videos without doing any installation of anything. The Windows to go will have a slightly different set of drivers than your standard Windows. The Windows to go drivers should be as good as the drivers you are already have. If it is a software issue, then the problem should go away when you boot up a slightly different version of Windows. Well, at least that's what I think.
But let's say that neither of the above resulted in anything positive.
So now some questions about your earphones than your audio amplifier. You have an external audio amplifier hooked your motherboard right? And your headphones plug into a 3.5 mm hole on the front panel. Right? Have you EVER tried plugging your headphones into the rear panel instead? Also, what about plugging in your external audio amplifier into the front panel instead of the back panel. I am thinking that there may be some difficulty with the front panel 3.5 mm connector. If both the rear panel and the front panel connectors appear to FUNCTION the same and the noise is still there, we might conclude that the noise has nothing to do with the connectors inasmuch it should have to separate connectors and it's very unlikely both connectors would be failing at the same time.
Off the top of my head that's as much as I can think of right now. Microphone off
This is almost certainly RF Interference. This interference can occur anywhere between the DAC circuitry on the motherboard (or sound card) and the headphones/speakers themselves.

Biggest cause I've seen tends to be having Wireless networking components near the audio circuitry.

If it's recent and you've not had anything changed inside your case, it's possible something changed with your external SETUP.  As Geek Mentions you'll want to try the various available connectors on your system for audio output and see if they all have the same symptoms

Ha ha! That dictation feature is awesome. 

It's quite old, my dad bought it quite some time ago. It may even be a decade-old! It's originally by E-S, model Ei 314 (as suggested by the label on the tower case...). He changed the motherboard to the current one listed. I added the RAM, GPU, SSD, and changed the PSu. The problem was never there before (see original post).

I dusted the PCI connector and re-seated the GPU and used an air disperser to clear any dust. The GPU's temperature never goes higher than 55 degrees C.

I always plug audio devices into the rear socket to avoid noise however it's just as bad, front or back. I detected large latency spikes using LatencyMon (see attached image). The audio is affected, but I've also noticed the system's responsiveness is slightly affected too. Audio and system responsiveness are affected simultaneously.

Link to LatencyMon download:
http://www.sweetwater.com/sweetcare/articles/solving-dpc-latency-issues/

I only switch between headphones and stereo speaker, I don't think I have an external audio amplifier... actually, I'm not sure what is meant by an external audio amplifier I'm afraid. Is it just a speaker? 

Haven't tried the "Windows To Go" solution, how do I do that? Is it copied onto the USB? If so, wouldn't I need to deactivate the existing Windows 10 OS on the motherboard before activating the new copy on the USB? I think I would also lose my Windows 10 Anniversary as it was upgraded for free from Windows 7 Home (retail), and the free upgrade is no longer live.

Thank you for the quick response. 

P.S: The system is only using the integrated sound card. No additional sound card has been installed.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]BC_Programmer

The TP_Link wireless device is connected by USB and has been sitting near the tower without causing any problems. No changes were made to the external setup. I can't see how EM/RF interference would cause latency issues.

Apologies, I would have mentioned the latency issue as well beforehand, but I only found that after browsing a few forum posts whilst waiting for a reply. I would changed the title if I could. 

Anything else you guys need me to do?

Still wondering if i need to change the GPU. I play only 1080p and can sacrifice few detail filters. What do you think?What games? Games make the difference with performance and hardware requirements.

I have a GTX 780 that I bought off my brother for $100 which came with 8GB of DDR3 1600Mhz RAM as a bundle which allowed me to upgrade to 16GB RAM and GTX 780 ti Superclocked 2880 cuda core 3GB 384-bit from what was before just a GTX 260 core 216 Superclocked 896MB and it played games like Witcher 3 with no problems and 50-60 FPS, but I am not RUNNING 1080p. CPU I am running is the AMD FX-8350 8-core at 4GHz and 16GB RAM.Why not just try it out and see, if it runs everything you need it to at a satisfactory level then there's little point in replacing it.

I was wondering if this computer is fast enough to play on 1080p and 100+ fps as I know nothing about computers and wanted a fast gaming one for Christmas
Cyberpower Gaming Armada GT AMD A10 Processor, 8Gb RAM, 2Tb Hard Drive, PC Gaming Desktop Base Unit With Onboard Radeon R7 6GCN GraphicsDifferent games handle hardware differently, what game are you planning on playing at 1080p and 100+FPS?

Additionally I have serious doubts that the integrated APU's Radeon R7 GPU would do much better than 30-40 FPS at 1080p. (But this is a guess based on my experience with other APUs). I have yet to see an APU that is powerful for gaming, all other APU's I have experienced while they can run games they wont run them the same as if you have a added mid to high end video card. The systems with the added mid to high end video cards will pretty much always be better.
Quote

    Windows 10
    AMD A10 7850K CPU (3.6GHZ)
    AMD A68 chipset
    8Gb Kingston DDR3 1600Mhz RAM
    2Tb (2000Gb) hard drive
    AMD Radeon R7 integrated GPU
    DVD-RW Multi DVD Rewriter
    802.11n Wi-Fi
    5.1 Channel Audio
    6x USB 2.0, 2x USB 3.0, 1x RJ45, 3x Audio JACKS
    H 435, W 191, D 468 mm
    Cyberpower Gaming Armada GT Gaming Desktop PC Base Unit

I'm not able to predict frame rates, you'll need to look up different video cards and see what frame rate each handles then get one that does what you need.  Frame rates like that with decent graphics settings at a reasonable resolution are going to require a reasonably powerful graphics card.  "As cheap as possible" and "100-159fps" do not really go together well.

IMO, if you focus on building a PC "as cheap as possible", you're going to have a bad time.

Hello guys i got a gaming computer which I built on my own and Im having some problems with it .

Firstly in any time of the day my compuiter can completely freeze and I cant do anything while this happens.
The only solution when it happens is to reset the computer by turning on/off the psu which harms my computer in a terrible way...

Secondly the other pretty similar thing that happens is also any time in the day it makes a strange sound (like im touching the point of audiojack with my finger) and about 1-2 seconds later my monitor blacks out and FREEZES like before ...
Also cant do anything while this happens except reseting the psu...

I've already tried to switch gpu it still happens, I worked it with different rams in case that was the problem and it still happened...

*Also i have my cpu liquid cooler (corsair h60) is connected to the cpu fan. In bios settings it reads as ~4100-4200rpm which I dont KNOW if is a problem, it just seems weird to me and maybe you know smth about it ...

The only ones remaining to check are the mb and the cpu.

I would appreciate any kind of help to find a solution thank you in advance! 

specs: i7 6700k-cpu Sapphire Radeon R9 390 8GB Nitro-gpu asus z170 PRO gaming-mb corsair rm850-psu corsair vengeance ddr4 16gb 2133mhz-ram corsair h60-liquid cpu cooler samsung ssd 850 evo-ssd wd 1tb black-hdd wd 500mb green-hdd

(Sorry if i made any mistakes in the text)

https://redd.it/5imlpd
[/size]MEMTEST86 should be run on this for a few passes about an hour or two to make sure its not memory issue. Health of the drives should be checked as for Virtual Memory passing bad data to RAM can lock a system up too if a drive isnt healthy. Additionally are all your system temps cool?

Hi! So, a month ago, my Encore tablet, when I was watching a movie off of it, it suddenly stopped charging. When I plugged the tablet in the TV, it started charging again. Until now, seems logical that it is the charger's fault. Sent it to warranty to get it fixed. Guys there said that they replaced the battery, but of course the tablet still wasn't charging + the battery lasted significantly less. Sent it back to them reporting what I faced after their "repair". Today, they informed me that the problem exists because I changed the OS. In my rush, I didn't choose Windows 8.1 64 bit, but 32. Not big mistake, because the tablet only has 2GB of RAM. But now they said to me that they replaced the Windows and it now works, but I don't believe them. Please tell me your advice, I wanna know if this is even possible to be the fault.Here is a reviewof  the Toshiba Encore 8 tablet
http://wccftech.com/review/toshiba-encore-8-80inch-windows-81-tablet-pc-review/
Is this the same model you have? Maybe not. Please give some more detailr.

From your post, it seems the repair people are telling you that the changer only works well with the 64 bit version of Windows.
I have never, ever heard of that. Not logical. Otherwise, how could it charge the battery while the system is turned off. 
I am sure that no Windows OS does anything while the CPU is turned off.

Overall, Toshiba has a good REPUTATION.  I am not defending the repair people.  Still, any user alternation of the UNIT is violation of the warranty terms.

From the above link:
Quote

Battery: 5000 mAh 2-cell Lithium-ion, 7h 720p Video50h Audio Playback, 14.5h User scenario: 65% Web / 10% Video Playback / 25% STANDBY, 6 Week System Off, 7 days RTC Battery Life

In order to make a more realistic comparison of RAM modules, I want to convert CL (CAS) latency to True Latency measured in nanoseconds. The FORMULA is:

True Latency (ns) = Clock Cycle Time (ns) X Number of Clock Cycles (CL)

The problem is that I don't know if the Clock Cycle Time is calculated from other factors or if it is a CONSTANT for each given SPD speed (e.g. 2133 MHz,  2400MHz, etc). How do I determine the Clock Cycle Time in nanoseconds for any given RAM module?

Can someone please help? Why not just use benchmark results of RAM sticks as a means of knowing, as for the main board that the RAM is in and the CPU that has memory controller and other things also affect performance?

I have a Socket AM3+ board for EXAMPLE and got different RAM benchmark results between same system with an AMD Athlon II x4 620 2.6Ghz and a AMD FX-8350 x8 4.0Ghz. Both CPUs have their own integrated memory controllers, and both CPUs handled the RAM differently at the same FSB of 1333Mhz. The Athlon II x4 maxes out with 1333Mhz FSB support. The FX-8350 can take faster, but it was running at 1333 which is what the RAM was rated at. Got this 8GB 1333Mhz RAM 2 x 4GB for free from a dead system, but have since upgraded to 1600Mhz DDR3 16GB. the benchmark results between the Athlon II x4 620 2.6Ghz and the FX-8350 x8 4.0Ghz was almost 10% difference, where the RAM performed BETTER in the faster FX-8350. Benchmark used was Passmark.Good benchmark results emulate the way something would be used in the real world. A memory test that did random reads and writers will give results that differ from  long sequential reds.

I don't know to much about computers but I want a somewhat good gaming laptop to be able to play ESO on medium-high settings. My current stock build is the following.
Processor: AMD A8-5550M APU
Graphics: Radeon(tm) HD
Ram: 8g
Motherboard: HP Pavilion 17 ts notebook pc

How large of a budget do you have to work with?Anywhere from $100 to $500. I wanna keep it cheap though.Not a realistic budget...especially for gaming.Thinking your budget needs to be around $700 for a new laptop to do that. If you look for a refurb you might be able to get one at the $500 price tag. If this was a desktop computer you would be just looking at a video card upgrade, but you NEED an entire new laptop because the GPU is unable to be upgraded.

Here is a refurb gaming laptop that would run it well but its $582.00 after shipping....  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834315794

Quote

NVIDIA GeForce GTX 950M 2 GB
Intel Core i5 6200U (2.30 GHz)
8 GB MEMORY 256 GB SSD
15.6" Full HD 1920 x 1080

Hello,

I am having trouble loading my computer, it resets every single time before it reaches the windows logo loading screen.
I am using windows 7. I can get into the BIOS but I can't get in to the safe mode screen. It freezes at a blank screen with a flashing "_" when I try to get into the safe mode boot screen. My motherboard is Sabertooth x58. At one point I somehow got into a red screen which was called GRUB4DOS, but I don't know what it is so I restarted my computer.

Background info:

It was around 2:00 pm when I closed my computer and I was heading out. When I came back home around 6-7 pm, my computer had the problem. My mom said it was still open when she was in my room in a moment before. But when I came home, the computer was closed. This makes me think that there was a windows update so my computer took a while to update before shutting down and that might have cause my computer to act like this.

Another thing was that coned was suppose to come in and read my meter on the same day, I don't know if it has any relevance to this case. (Unrelated- They called and said they were coming and never came, does this happen alot?)

So I am thinking it either is a power issue or my hard drive broke somehow.

If you need any more information, I will try my best to provide them.

If the problem occurs before the Windows screen appears it is almost certainly a hardware issue. You say you can't get to the "safe mode screen". Have you tried tapping the F8 Function key when the system first boots? What happens when you do that?

Some things to do in the MEANWHILE:

To check the ram, download memtest (http://memtest.org/). Burn it to a cd using a dedicated .iso burning utility (http://www.petri.co.il/how_to_write_iso_files_to_cd.htm), make sure the cd drive is at the top of the boot order in bios, then boot to the newly created cd and run the utility.

Hard Drive Diagnostics:

Run hard drive diagnostics: http://www.tacktech.com/display.cfm?ttid=287
Make sure, you select tool, which is appropriate for the brand of your hard drive.
Depending on the program, it'll create bootable floppy, or bootable CD.
If downloaded file is of .iso type, use ImgBurn: http://www.imgburn.com/ to burn .iso file to a CD (select "Write image file to disc" option), to make the CD bootable.
For Toshiba hard drives see here: http://sdd.toshiba.com/main.aspx?Path=ServicesSupport/FujitsuDrivesUSandCanada/SoftwareUtilities#diagnosti
c


And by the way, someone coming to read the meter has nothing to do with your computer.

Well I spam the f5 key when I start up my computer (http://www.manualowl.com/m/Asus/SABERTOOTH-X58/Manual/263096?page=89) - Near the bottom, and it freezes when I do that, or it just restarts again. And when I press f8, it brings me to a boot menu with only IDE or CDROM options. Honestly, I don't think the f5 button is working and I don't even see the f5 option when I boot the system. I will try to get the tests results as soon as possible.Try a new keyboard...report back with your results,Good evening jainwu

    Just in case you are not aware of this in Windows 7 there is no F5 for safe mode there is only F8. But just as Patio is letting you know that you may want to try a new / different keyboard.

    If you are able to get into safe mode please don't forget the do the steps that Allan is giving you for testing the memory and hard drive. Also if you are getting a grub4dos error do you have a CD DISK in the drive / floppy disk in the drive / usb thumb drive in the PC.   

Hope this helps you, Mike

PS: After you are done running all your tests you may want to check and this is a last minute thought in the BIOS is the hard drive listed as first boot device.     Yeah I just test the safe mode thing again, and it don't show any safe mode options. Currently I can't do the tests because this computer don't have CD ROM but I am just letting you guys know what is going on right now. I don't have any grub4dos error, I just got into the menu of it. And the windows 7 f5 thing, I did not know that. And I check the hard drive was listed as first boot device.

" If you are able to get into safe mode please don't forget the do the steps that Allan is giving you for testing the memory and hard drive. "

Quick question, does this mean I can't perform the tests if I can't get into safe mode?

I will get a picture of the f8 screen tomorrow. I can also record it and post it on youtube to show exactly what is going on if it makes things clearer.Please re-read my post. It doesn't say anything about safe mode to conduct the hd a memory tests. I realize that hartbeatmr's post may have confused you.Right, anyways here is the screen I get to when I press f8

http://i.imgur.com/I2s8H.jpg

I am running the MEMTEST right now and everything looks like its running smoothly it is 20% pass right now.

But when I ran the hard drive test, it says HD is not FOUND. I double check to see if it somehow got LOOSE, but everything is securely plugged in. The tool I downloaded was

http://support.wdc.com/product/download.asp?groupid=504&sid=30&lang=en
(ISO version)

I have a "Western Digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive"

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136533&nm_mc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel&cm_mmc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel-_-Content-_-text-_-

When the MEMTEST finishes, I'll report the results.

Well, there's your problem. It sounds like either a bad hd, bad hd cable or loose hd cable.Alright I finish with the MEMTEST, so there is nothing wrong with my memory, zero errors.

Anyways

I don't think its the cables, I been using this hard drive for a little over a year now, and do they just suddenly stop working? I mean it was working fine before, could it be a windows update error? And from time to time, it says overclocking failure when I boot the system. (Not always, and I don't know how to recreate it)

I did some googling and I read somewhere that people system's fail to start because of some windows update, but they can still enter safe mode.

I have over a few years worth of documents in there, I don't want to lose them. Is there any way to fix this if its a bad HD or retrieve my lost files? Or is there a way to confirm that the hard drive is at fault?For retrieving your data :

Slave Drive Tutorial

As to the health of the HDD...DLoad and run the dignostics Free from the drive manuf. site. Quote from: jainwu on August 11, 2012, 04:30:17 PM

Well I spam the f5 key when I start up my computer (http://www.manualowl.com/m/Asus/SABERTOOTH-X58/Manual/263096?page=89) - Near the bottom, and it freezes when I do that, or it just

Recently purchased Canon canonscan scanner ( lide70). Can't copy ( or print) USING Canoscan Toolbox or the "copy" button on scanner. Get message "unable to scan. Make sure that there is enough space on targeted DISKS" ..Talked with Canon people. They were able to make the scanner WORK using my Photostudio program. They say that the scanner works and that it is a computer problem..probably not enough virtual memory.I went to Control Panel-System-Advanced-Performance-advanced-virtual memory- and changed initial size to 3072.......didn't correct problem. Can't find any solutions using my browser. Can you folks Help? This is my first submission to your group.
Maury

I'm not sure if Canon tech support WALKED you through this already, but first off, see that you have the NEWEST drivers.

A little more info on your system would be nice.Thanks for your reply..Got problem solved through Dr Tech. It was in some Windows Temporary files.. appreciate your responding. Maury

I have a Dell Optiplex150 and I'm trying to UPGRADE from a 20gig western digital hdd to a 80gig. when i put the 80 gig in the dell logo comes on, boots, then when xp would boot next, it just goes black and stops.

Compatibility issue? how would I know? is there a site for hdd compatibillty?

Or is it my Bios?Brand new HDD's have to be formatted before they are used...did you recieve the utility CD with this drive ? ?
If so all the utilities you need are on there including a very nice "clone" feature which will clone your 20G to the new HDD and make it like new.

After that you can FORMAT the 20G and use it for storage space.Guess I should've clarified. The 80gig i bought is used, the gx150 only supports 1 hdd at a time, i didn't get a utility cd with it.Travel to Western Digitals site for the Data Lifeguard TOOLS...You have to format the drive and then you have to install Windows for it to function. Do you have a real Windows CD or what? What version?oh my BAD guys it's windows 2000.

but the thing is, this computer can only be hooked up to ONE hdd at a time. the one i have on it now or the other one. when i put the 80gig in, the dell screen comes up, boots, then when for example when a OS bootscreen would pop up, it just goes black and stops

i should be ABLE to format and install windows on the 80gig without using another hdd. this is what i'm trying to do.Put the Windows CD in the drive and restart the machine. Press any key when it says "Press any key to boot from CD".what i'm saying is it doesnt get there. when it should, it just goes black, and stops.Go into the BIOS (F2 when you see the Dell logo) and make sure that in boot order CDROM is listed before the hard drive. While there, make sure that the hard drive is listed correctly.

The machine was functioning fine before this? And the brand new 80 gig is the only drive is the machine?

While inside make sure all connections are tight as sometimes things can get pulled loose when working inside the case.It was listed, I don't know what was wrong. I used WD Data Lifeguard and wrote zeros on the drive and it worked.

Thanks guys.Glad you are fixed up and thanks for posting back.

I have run into a spot of trouble after playing a game. The game caused the Monitor to shut off and the computer to go into standby mode.

Upon restart I get a POST message One long, 2 short. According to the A7N8X-X board thats a VGA adapter problem.

So, I did the FOLLOWING:

Changed ram, ran minimum hardware configuration, bought a new power module all to no avail.

I changed the adapter to a really old TNT2 card and the computer works fine, just not with the V9999GT card.

I phoned asus about it and they TOLD me to do what I just did.

The monitor gets a signal, the lights on the card work as does the fan. It even responds by powering down a little due to lack of heat creation, yet the screen remains black and the POST message is doing my head in.

Any ideas? Quote

I have run into a spot of trouble after playing a game. The game caused the Monitor to shut off and the computer to go into standby mode.

Upon restart I get a POST message One long, 2 short. According to the A7N8X-X board [highlight]thats a VGA adapter problem. [/highlight]
So, I did the following:

Changed ram, ran minimum hardware configuration, bought a new power module all to no avail.

I changed the adapter to a really old TNT2 card and the computer works fine, just not with the V9999GT card.

I phoned asus about it and they told me to do what I just did.

The monitor gets a signal, the lights on the card work as does the fan. It even responds by powering down a little due to lack of heat creation, yet the screen remains black and the POST message is doing my head in.

Any ideas?

Quote

I have run into a spot of trouble after playing a game. The game caused the Monitor to shut off and the computer to go into standby mode.

Upon restart I get a POST message One long, 2 short. According to the A7N8X-X board [highlight]thats a VGA adapter problem. [/highlight]
So, I did the following:

Changed ram, ran minimum hardware configuration, bought a new power module all to no avail.

I changed the adapter to a really old TNT2 card and the computer works fine, just not with the V9999GT card.

I phoned asus about it and they told me to do what I just did.

The monitor gets a signal, the lights on the card work as does the fan. It even responds by powering down a little due to lack of heat creation, yet the screen remains black and the POST message is doing my head in.

Any ideas?

So you changed everything except the thing that it pointed to? Were both cards AGP? If so, it seems you need a new card to me.

I've not any PROBS with the drive until last night WENT to WRITE a new blank DVD and the drive won't even recognize the disc inserted. It will play DVD movies and AUDIO cd's, will even write to blank cd's. Any solutions?
FYI Rom drive model: HL-DT-ST DVDRRW GWA-4164BTry another brand of media...Ive had the same problem with my sony DVD-R/RW, somehow i cant get Sony DVD-R's to work with it, but TDK ones always work fine.

my ami bios version 1.19 would not load xp only 98.at first it would give a message "ntldr is missing" i set-up the bios and restart and message " could'nt OPEN multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)\WINDOWS"A whole lot more info on that machine your drive setups and what happened prior to this and someone will be along shortly...

Just a stab in the dark but i'm guessing this is not a BIOS issue.thanks for the reply.... that computer was running on 98se and i upgrade it to xp. when i first install the xp it give me a message "ntldr is missing" so i setup the bios previous setup is cylinder 16 thousand something and the rest also have values so i change and those value ive change all to zeroes andr i restart the computer and give the message "cannot open multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)\WINDOWS". in the event i PUT extra RAM OF 128MB/133 coz the previous ram is only 32mb/100 THOUGH they have differrent speed both ram is detected and sum up for 160mb.Windows XP requires at least 64 mb of RAM.  Even though you have 2 different sticks of RAM in it, and even though the first screens will read both RAM, it still may not be compatible.  They usually require the same CAS latency as well.

Pull out the 32mb stick just leaving the 128mb and see what happens.

Then go into your bios, and reset all of the defaults.

Hoop2077at first my os is 98se i'd install xp in the ssme PARTION drive c so that i could have a dual boot with obvoiusly fat32 file system. after the necesary after files had been coppy to harddisk then the computer reboot them i get message ntldr is missing. so i format the drive c using fat 32 but still the same problem i tried even ntfs.so i got to bios in the drive configuration this are configuration i chage...


        cyln    head    wpcom   sec
    16,000      4           6         100


in here i've change this data all to zero, i cannot recall anymore what is the exact values in the cylinder etc but im sure that the original values is not zero.

after this i restart the computer and give me a message..

"coudn't open multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)
NTLDR:coudn't open multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)"

this the exact message

i would really appreciate it, if you could help solve this problem

thank you...Why exactly did you change your hard drive settings?  Your initial problem was just a missing ntldr file. Nothing in the BIOS needed to be changed.

First off, reset your BIOS settings back to defaults.

You said you are able to boot to 98, but not XP. Try booting into 98 after resetting your BIOS settings to default. Then, put in your XP cd and go into command line. Find your NTLDR file on the cd, then simply copy it to the partition where XP is. If you're not familiar with DOS commands, let us know and we'll walk you through it in detail.

No HDD out there will OPERATE normally if you change those settings to all zeroes...those numbers mean something.
Reset your BIOS to default settings without the HDD hooked up and boot it and shut down 2 or 3 times.
Now hook up the HDD and enter the BIOS and make sure the HDD detection is set to "Auto".
Press F10 to save and exit and see what happens.

No matter how much you dislike those #'s like cylinders tracks and heads you should never change them period.

my moom has and old HP KAYAK XA-s 400MHz it continues to give fan cpu error what shuld i do
Your moom, HUH? I'm going to go out on a limb here and guess you meant "mom."

MUCH more information about the problem would be appreciated. Please tell us exactly when you get this error messege, exactly what it says if possible, and as much technical information on the system as possible.

With what information you've given, all I can say is there might be a problem with your CPU fan. Overheating issue maybe?

It is saying that (fan cpu ) or (fan 10 slot Error) or (Fan *censored* error ) these errors it is showing
and by the way what is wrong with having a 400 MHz Pc  Nothing is wrong with 400 MHz. I myself still have a Pentium II system.

I'd still like to know when you are getting this messege. Does it come up right when you are booting up? Do you hear any beeps coming from inside the computer? We still need much more information about the error messege itself and about your computer.yes when is starts to boot up then from in the pc fans first they speed up and then becomes slow and this thing is continues sound like (WOOOOOO.....then SLOWS down then WOOOOOO and so on)
this is the probyes on the booting up it begins to make sound like (WOOOOO... thw slows down then again WOOOOO and so on it contunies )
You have to correct the fan problem. As I recall they were an uunusual size fan and the connection was tricky. It mounts in the top of the case.

Did it just QUIT or do you know the history of this computer?