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Have been trying to connect my PC to my new LED TV for the past 5 hours via HDMI and still have no clue what to do
Tried
Updating all drivers
Display settings in Nvidia control panel
SCREEN resolution
Playback devices (HDMI not appearing)
Resetting PC a lot
Different HDMI cables
Different HDMI ports (on TV)

No clue what I'm doing all help is appreciated <3
just to state the obvious, is there a setting on the TV as to where it gets its source from, like, AV1, AV2, HDMI1, HDMI2 - that sort of thing, and you have changed that setting to match the HDMI PORT you are using?

what's the AGE of the TV and PC?
what HDMI versions do they SUPPORT; HDMI 1.2, or 1.3, or 1.4 etc?
same for the cable, some cables are built for certain HDMI versions.

Acer v3 575T. One day, the laptop wouldn't turn on. I tried the whole battery RESET pin hole trick, decharging the battery and then let sit for the night.

Next morning, I noticed that pressing the power button brought the backlit keyboard to life. However, the CPU fan/exhaust fan would only power on for a quick second then power off. The backlit keyboard would stay lit for a while though. Screen of course shows nothing.

No Beeps from the board either.

I have SINCE removed everything except the keyboard from the laptop. The power button is integrated into the keyboard and doesn't have a conventional power button I don't think.

I'm thinking it's the mainboard and quite frankly not worth the cost of repair. Acer wants $259 to do the out of warranty fix but I'm not confident in them either as I've heard some nasty stories.

Do you all think it's the mainboard too?Remove battery and try to run laptop off of just the external power supply that is normally used to charge the battery and see if the laptop then boots and acts normal. If it wont run this WAY then its likely a hardware failure. This will eliminate the battery from pulling down the power supply and keeping the laptop from booting as a cause. If it runs off wall power through the power supply without battery installed then its most likely a bad battery that is pulling heavy on the power supply and a battery REPLACEMENT should fix this.In addition but Opposite to Dave's suggestion you can also try running it on only the battery. My Satellite L300 will not boot correctly or run if connected to AC Power, but will charge the battery and will run off said battery without problems. When I was looking into the problem it was noted as being a common design fault with both Toshiba and Acer laptops.

Though if it works that way it's still a motherboard issue I suppose.Hi
Have you checked the USB ports for damage/shorts. If a port is damaged, you could make sure no pins are touching the socket shell and see if it powers up. The 2 ports on the FRONT right are easily replaced as they are on there own board with a cable to the motherboard. The one on the left is attached to the motherboard  and will need un soldering to replace.

Im having a person build me a gaming computer but have a feeling it wont be good enough. What does every FEEL about these following specs?

Acer Veriton i5 8GB RAM 500GB HD DUAL Mode ATI RADION 1GB Video Card, Onboard sounddepends on what games are you talking about?

and more info is required.

a Core i5 what?
8GB of what sort of memory?
ATI Radeon make/model?  (but 1GB will struggle with games)
onboard sound is sufficient, but it may only support 2.1, if you want 5.1 surround sound, an add-on card may be required.
will it have an SSD?
what watts is the PSU?

Hi, so here's the problem, I bought a brand new graphics card today, the problem is my monitor only has a VGA slot in it and the graphics card has HDMI and DVI. So I looked for the HDMI to VGA converter I had and used that, it was working well for awhile, no display issues at all, and then after awhile my monitor lost signal and this annoying high pitched ringing noise started, it seems to be coming from the adapter since EVERYTIME I unplug it and plug it back in, everything would work perfectly for awhile and then the same problem would start all over again. I tried using our TV directly and the problem doesn't occur with it. Is it advisable for me to buy a new HDMI to VGA adapter or is that a waste of money?sounds like it will be a suck-it-and-see type of problem solving.

some adapters aren't as good as others, generally price will be your guide there (not always but that's the WAY to bet).
but maybe a more guaranteed method is to get a new cable that has VGA on one end and DVI on the other.

how old is the monitor?
personally I'd be using this as a good excuse to upgrade.
"YEAH, sorry Honey, the PC is broken, I have to get that 27" 4K monitor after all now. Bye, back soon, love you."haha thanks, I've been thinking about getting a new monitor instead of trying to get a different adapter but since I've PUT most of my recent savings into a Graphics card I might need to wait for a few more weeks to get a sweet new monitorohh and I'm not entirely sure how old the monitor is, the guy at the store threw it in as a freebie when I was buying components for it, but I don't think its too old since it apparently has touch screen capabilities. Which is annoying since it can have that but not an HDMI slotevery monitors I've checked all have the manufacture date on a little sticker on the back side of the unit.
admittedly it can be hard to read, STUPIDLY small print usually, but it's always been there.POS monitors have been touch=screen for years and are VGA only...

Hello everyone.
I am planning to build a ~$700-900 PC budget build. You guys  already saw my case from my PREVIOUS thread topic, so. XD well, anyways i was wondering should i look for a good air cooler or water cool my CPU? I am trying to make this build as cost effective as possible, & I am only getting a RYZEN R3 1200 processor due to its cost. Do you think EVEN an AIO would be overkill for this CPU, because i will be doing a little bit of an overclock (up to ~3.6-3.8GHz)?my thoughts on the matter...
air cooled is all you need.
your PROPOSED CPU is low end enough not to generate any heat that the supplied heat sink couldn't handle.
and if you only OC it slightly, that shouldn't change.  but also, only slightly OC'ing may not make any discernible difference.Thank you Mark. I might eventually trade it out for a more powerfull Ryzen CPU in the future, but that isn't at a determined date yet seeing i have to build this pc first. XD

Hi there. I have a HDD which the power connected broke off INSIDE the HDD casing. I REMOVED it and placed it into a caddy which then showed up as unallocated space when I plugged it in. I MADE a new simple volume which then showed up as RAW after. It's now asking do you want to format now, the question is, which kind of format will this do. A quick format or a LOW level format? I'm using a WINDOWS 7 laptop. ThanksIt should do a quick format

I've been experiencing problems for a week now in that sometimes the colours on my desktop picture aren't right, I also get clicking noise on monitor when STARTING up computer, blank screen and green light keeps going on and off until I've pressed button a few times when it seems to right itself and screen comes on.  TODAY my desktop icons had been rearranged, the icon and print size has suddenly decreased, and everything on the screen has moved right over to the left.  I really don't know WHETHER it's the monitor or computer itself and would appreciate some advice.  Thanks.Please give more details.
It could be either the video card, the monitor, or even the cable.
Is the cable a VGA type? A loose connector can give symptoms like you mentioned.

Lost icon positions INDICATE the system lost track of what size screen your have.
what's the age?

desktop icon location can change when the video card updates and the resolution changes.
sounds like the video card is not quite right - time for a new one perhaps?
is it built-in or an add-on type card?

had the pictures on the screen always looked like crap or is this a recent issue?
I know some photographers who always complain about the colours of pictures on their screens until they went out and coughed up serious money for a decent monitor.The problems started just after a Windows update, probably coincidentally.  The desktop colour changed from blue to red/orange and everything flickered but okay after restarting computer.  Two days later the icons changed place and size.  The cables all seem to be secure.   Have tried switching monitor off for a minute when it starts clicking which seems to clear it.  The screen then shows 'no input' message for a few seconds and then comes on okay. 
The monitor and Windows 7 program are about 3 years old. 
It sounds from your replies as THOUGH there's more to it than just a faulty monitor and I don't know anything about video cards so it looks like I'll be paying a visit to our local computer shop! 
 Before you go to the shop and spend money can you borrow another monitor and hook it up to test ? ?

As always troubleshooting is a step by step process...and thats what i would start with.

How can you tell the speed a NIC Card RUNS, by looking at it?By Looking at it you will only know its maximum ACCORDING to specs of the specific NETWORK Adapter. You have to look up the specs.

 For actual speed it would need to be measured using a utility. If wanting to measure speed of computer on the internet for upload/download average you can go to www.speedtest.net

 If you have a group of computers that are 100mbps and you have a 10mbps hub then your capped at a 10mbps connection because of the hub bottleneck. Then you also have to deal with network congestion and so even if you had computers all 100mbps connected thru a 100mbps switch, depending on what TRAFFIC other systems have on this same network it will slow down and speed up towards maximum speed as multiple systems compete for bandwidth. *Note: Some network adapters show a Green or Yellow LED indicating speed, but not all network adapters have this feature. Some OLDER ones even have a 10/100 or 100/1000 with individual LEDs lit to indicate the speed at which its handshaking with the switch or other computer over a cross over cable etc.

Then the other bottleneck is your ISP connection you can have a computer with a 1000mbps connection to your modem, but have a 1.2mbps internet connection.

Hey im thinking of putting together a Ryzen gaming PC and im looking for a bit of advice on what parts to go for. So far ive decided on the below

Case: Mid tower or Micro depending on the size
Mobo: Still undecided but id like it to be SLI t o add another gpu at some point
GPU: GTX 1050ti 4gb
CPU Ryzen 5 1600
Ram: Advice needed
PSU: Advice needed


HD+ SSD drive

Im hoping to keep the price around £600ish

So what do you think?Include your budget for better responses...based on your SLI potential requirement and who-knows-what future needs, you can probably rule out micro cases.

as to RAM, I'd go min 8GB and PSU, min 600watt. Quote

PSU, min 600watt.

Overkill.

600W is a good minimum. Leaves room for future upgrades.

A dual 1050Ti system with a Ryzen 1500 and a  typical setup (SSD, 8GB RAM, one HDD and an optical drive) would draw around 350W.

So Geek-9pm is right that a 600W supply would be "overkill". Just get a 450W supply, right?

it's only "overkill" if you ignore the future. Which is specifically what the 600W advice isn't ignoring- With 450W, You have no room for upgrades. Let's say a few years down the line they decide to upgrade. They decide to get a Ryzen 5 1600X, and opt to replace the 1050Ti's with two 1070's.

That setup would draw around 530W under load. At best OP figures out the issue and now they've bought two power supplies- a 450W and a 600W which they could have bought to start with. At worst, they are diagnosing weird BSODs that appear under load, or mysterious shutdowns. Or maybe the power supply explodes and causes a catastrophic house fire which spreads to a nearby orphanarium of not just babies but baby nuns. Who can we blame? That's right. Geek-9pm.

Do you want that responsibility? No power supply is overkill when baby nuns lives are at stake.

Scalable Link Interface (SLI) is a brand name for a multi-GPU technology developed by Nvidia for linking two or more video cards together to produce a single output. SLI is a parallel processing algorithm for computer graphics, meant to increase the available processing power.[1] The initialism SLI was first used by 3dfx for Scan-Line Interleave, which was introduced to the consumer market in 1998 and used in the Voodoo2 line of video cards. After buying out 3dfx, Nvidia acquired the technology but did not use it. Nvidia later reintroduced the SLI name in 2004 and intended for it to be used in modern computer systems based on the PCI Express (PCIe) bus; however, the technology behind the name SLI has changed dramatically.

Hello

I just received a new motherboard for my DELL N5110.

However I appear to be having some issues. The computer will power up but the screen remains black.

When I press the start button it sounds as though it is starting up but it doesn't boot properly and it goes quiet after a few SECONDS. The screen stays completely black. The three lights on the keyboard do light up in a sequence.

They light in the following sequence:
LEFT
Middle
Right
Middle
Left (Stays On)
Middle (Stays On)
Right (Stays On)
They all stay on for a second together and then all turn off completely.

The left and right lights on the FRONT left of the laptop are also both on constantly.

Once the computer is on, when I press on switch the computer turns off instantly without any shutdown process.

Troubleshooting:

Verified no physical damage to parts
Display screen is also new
Pressing F8 or F12 during start produces no results
Removed power from the laptop
Removed cables
Removed batter
Held power button for 90 seconds
Let go power
Battery back in
Power plugged back in
Restarted device
No change
Tested with External monitor
No display on external monitor
Swapped ram
No change
Disassembled machine cleaned parts with compress air and reassembled
No change
It may be the power brick...

I've wanted to know a couple of things.

Is there anyway I can take my files from my old computer and transfer it to my laptop?
Also, can I take my files from my tablet to my laptop?

Also, is there anyway I can take my realplayer files from my old computer and import them to my laptop?
 Can I take my realplayer files from my tablet and import them to my laptop?Google Drive if installed on devices you then can have access to it all from any device up to 15GB for free via cloud storage. I use this for files between my Android Smart Phone and my PC. Just need to set up a gmail account unless you already have one. if you already have one simply install Google Drive and then logon to it with same password as your email. *You could use this Google Drive as a means to copy data from device to device as well for offline use.

Assuming these are all DRM Free MP3 files it would be very simple. If you have any music that is DRM protected though it might be only licensed for play on that single device that initially downloaded the paid for music.

https://www.defectivebydesign.org/what_is_drm_digital_restrictions_managementWhat if Google Drive wasn't or isn't installed?there's the cloud option Dave mentioned.

there is also USB sticks or external hard drive choices if all devices are working.
if the PC the files are coming off doesn't work, its drive can be removed and installed into an external enclosure.
So, I downloaded Google Drive and I was able to retrieve my videos from my tablet. The only thing is that a lot of wording is in Chinese.

I was able to translate Google Drive back to English. Ok, now I had a computer that I bought in 2007 and crapped out in 2013. Is there anyway I can retrieve those files?yep - see above post.  As Mark stated this is the best path to GO with system that doesnt work, assuming the drive isnt damaged or infected.

Quote

drive can be removed and installed into an external enclosure.

I just spent a fair amount of money on a pair of Sony SRS-150 speakers in great condition, aside from minor wear to the cases.  Planning on using these when I hook up my most powerful computer in the basement on Fridays when the guys come over.  Do you know if the Sony SRS-150 speakers can be used with a computer reliably?  The amount of power each speaker can handle is 20W nominally.

The speakers look like this:
https://d2ydh70d4b5xgv.cloudfront.net/images/5/7/vintage-1980s-sony-srs-150-powered-speaker-system-w-square-drivers-great-look-3dc2f423c4e1b595de4fcd8bdedbed46.jpgUse a stereo with an auxiliary input and drive the speakers from the stereo. The small amp in the computer wont like those speakers and you could kill SOUNDCARD as well as it might not be very loud until the secret smoke is let out then no sound. A headset is about all you can drive DIRECTLY from a PC anymore without an amplifier to drive the speakers.

Just need an amp or stereo with aux input and connect line out to aux input. Then make sure volume is low and test. Raise volume to level you like from their or have Windows chime blow the windows out of home if set to max volume on boot.. 

I have a 80 watt Roland Amp for my electric guitar that has an aux input and that is LOUD. I made the mistake of forgetting my volume on my PC was set to 100 for headset and  wow that woke me up fast when the computer made a sound. My amp takes the aux input and sends it out at 100% so the PC has to be used to regulate the volume. The volume knob on the amp only CONTROLS the guitar that its driving the sound from. It has a direct input to 100% of 80 watts of speaker. Just about jumped out of my skin when so unexpected!

Quote from: DaveLembke on November 25, 2017, 02:31:55 PM

Use a stereo with an auxiliary input and drive the speakers from the stereo. The small amp in the computer wont like those speakers

isn't that what Salmon just said???

The HP is really good value some things to know ,

Newegg doesn't sell "Used" parts...pay attention.

I have the laptop in this video, a SAGER NP-9377, from a few years ago.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j0vC8o1GDGw

I'd like to perform this upgrade for the HDD myself using this video so I don't have to pay for a SERVICE but I've never done this before. How would I transfer the data from my old, smaller HDDs to the new, larger capacity HDDs after I've removed the smaller HDD and replaced them with the larger capacity HDDs? Thank you. you'll need to put the current drive from the laptop into a 2.5" SATA external enclosure.
now the original drive is out of the laptop, put in the new one, INSTALL Windows and the standard programs, then connect the external enclosure.
your old drive will show up in Windows Explorer, File Explorer (WHATEVER Windows version you opt for) as the next available letter, so maybe E:\ or F:\ or so.
go there, access your old Users folder, answer Yes to the 'permissions' warning and copy your docs, pics, music, videos, emails, contacts, bookmarks etc over.

or you could use disk imaging software, like Macrium Reflect.
leave the old drive in the laptop, put the new drive in the enclosure and clone old to new.As your laptop can have up to 3 drives in various configurations, can you post a screen capture of the disk management screen. This will show how MANY drives the laptop has and how they are set-up.

Here's how to use disk management https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-open-disk-management-2626080

What drive/drives did you want to replace ?

Quantos helped me make this COMPUTER build and I am ready to ORDER it now.
 
This is the list : https://pcpartpicker.com/list/GR99sJ

The problem is, that storage unit is out of stock and i dont want to mess anything up because i am inexperienced with building computers, so COULD someone please exchange the storage unit for another one that is compatible with this setup? (preferably on newegg or somewhere with the same price)

Also, please add a SSD to it aswell. 128 Gb is the lowest one I believe which is fine and will do for now.

Thanks in advance.


EDIT : CAN YOU UPDATE IT WITH A NEW LIST PLEASE, AND THANKSif the Western Digital drive is out of stock, CHANGE it for anything similar, like, this one;  Seagate - BARRACUDA 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM
and if any 120GB SSD will do, this is as good as any;  Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5"Note:...you may want to consider a 259 SSD...120's fill up before you know it...even if it's only the OS and important apps.You can get that WD drive at dozens of different vendors on the 'net so there's no need to wait, order from a different vendor.  You could also look for a WD Blue drive of the same size as that Black, the perfromance between the two isn't substantially different.

i was playing fifa 14 and suddenly screen turns black while light on the power button in cpu still on but nothing on screen.
all fans are running well dont know what to do now as i cant boot in,not even the bios show up.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
(i wrote it in such a rough way because by mistake i quit the webpage after writing the whole thing and got frustated)
Reseat the RAM for starters. If a RAM stick is the cause it can cause a system to not boot to even the bios. If you have 2 sticks of RAM or more in this system, try booting with 1 stick installed. If it doesnt boot from 1 stick. Shut it down and try another stick. If it still doesnt boot then swap out the power supply.thank you for responding.
well the thing is that i have just one ram installed.
so how can i know whether its the ram or psu that is preventing it from starting.To check the ram, download memtest (http://memtest.org/). Burn it to a cd using a dedicated .iso burning utility (http://www.petri.co.il/how_to_write_iso_files_to_cd.htm), make sure the cd drive is at the top of the boot ORDER in bios, then boot to the newly created cd and run the utility.Hi Allan... Their system is in PRETTY bad shape.. No BIOS access, so its not making it past POST. If they can get it to POST successfully then a memtest would be possible.

Given the fact that only 1 RAM stick is the system. If your system has a video CARD and also integrated video onboard, you can remove video card and connect to onboard integrated video to see if it will boot. If it boots it dosnt necessarily mean that the video card is the cause as for you COULD still have a weak power supply that by which with the video card removed its able to carry the load of the system now due to lesser current draw for power supply. But we will have a better DIRECTION to go in if the system boots with video card removed and running on onboard if this system has a video card to remove and successfully boots without the video card installed and instead is running on integrated video or APU video.

Make/Model computer info could also be helpful to know or if custom build all the part info to know what you have for a build?Thanks Dave.
you said that the vedio card might be using most of the power, bit i am running it with the integrated intel vedio card, and having a 450 watt psu i think it can provide more than enough.
Well now i have a couple of questions for you:
1) how can i know the root cause of the problem?
2) is it possible that something got blown inside?(nothing is overclocked)
3) what will fix the problem?

https://www.staples.com/Lenovo-IdeaCentre-310S-Desktop-AMD-A9-1TB-HDD-8GB-RAM-Windows-10-AMD-Radeon-R5-Graphics-/product_2709142
is this good enough for office work such as quickbooks all the word documents and all the stuff along those lines

My computer – Dell Latitude E5530 laptop, Windows 7, HGST hard drive

Three months ago I began getting the message “Windows detected a hard disk problem”. I initially panicked, made sure everything was backed up, and then started running some scans. At the time I ran the system file checker and a ChkDsk. All was fine. I then downloaded PartitionGuru and ran the “Verify or Repair Bad Sectors” and all was still well. Mostly excellent sectors, some good. I ran CCleaner, my anti-virus and malware programs. My computer continued to operate well. Over the last three months I would continue to receive this message occasionally. A week or two ago, when I ran PartitionGuru, all the sectors were excellent or good except one which was damaged. I repaired that and my computer continued to function fine.

However, the hard disk problem error message has been appearing more frequently in the last few days. So,  I did all of the above. The system file checker and ChkDsk were clear. I also ran the full diagnostic test at the Dell web site https://www.dell.com/support/article/us/en/19/sln114988/dell-diagnostic-tools-to-diagnose-and-fix-hardware-problems-on-your-dell-pc--tablet-or-servers?lang=en twice, most recently last evening, and my hard drive passed both times. This time however there was a change at PartitionGuru. These are the results over several days:



Excellent   57,060      54,803                    54,503
Good        3,588        5.833                      6,139
Normal         38                   58                            49
General           11                    5                             8
Poor                3                    2                             3
Severe         2                   1                              0
Damaged             0               0                             0

It appears that the quality of the sectors is declining. Other than all of this, my computer is operating just fine.

My question – does this suggest that my hard drive is in the process of failing?   

Rob
Never even heard of Partition Guru...for the most accurate results test the drive with the software from the HDD manuf. site...I use crystaldiskinfo to look at S.M.A.R.T on DRIVES for info on health, wear, features, and specs.
https://crystalmark.info/download/index-e.html

I use the 30-day trial of passmark benchmark on my systems when looking for performance issues.
https://www.passmark.com/products/pt.htm

About 10 years ago I short-stroked a drive and used a hard drive performance tool that graphed out performance so I was able to figure out a good size for the short-stroke partition to get maximum performance from the short-stroke space, then pointed my paging to this partition and a few other read/write heavy programs. Then SSD's came out and made short-stroking pointless if you had a SSD drive.  https://lifehacker.com/how-to-short-stroke-your-hard-drive-for-optimal-speed-1598306074

Lastly if you have a drive with a bad sector count greater than 0 ... The drive should no longer be trusted for important data! Sometimes sector failure is like cancer and it gets worse and could go from bad to worse fast. On that note I have a first generation SATA drive of 164.7GB capacity manufactured in 2004 with over 70,000 run hours and 8000 boots that I use on one of my older systems as a video editing drive and it has 46 bad sectors, but the bad sector count has remained the same ever since I got it for free 7 years ago. This drive I believe has bad sectors from the drive getting bumped while it was running which scratched one of the platters in a spot where the head is suppose to have a small gap tighter than the thickness of a hair, but if the drive is bumped and spinning it can scratch the surface DAMAGING the platter area and wiping out a string of sectors. Other sector failures can be related to the control board that is part of the hard drive failing and flagging sectors as bad in which it can quickly flag a bunch to never be used again even if the data on the platter is flawless, because it was unable to read from the sector and so it flagged it as bad, when it cant tell that it itself is the problem. Some data recovery centers swap these boards on drives that are sent in for data recovery to get data recovered that is there but the controller board is toast. Thank you for sharing Partition Guru , checking it out it looks like a Swiss army knife of disk tools. I hope they will continue developing the program and supplying the free version. Differently worth checking out.

As the others have said the drive is failing and will stop working sometime. Also as the drive deteriorates it will get slower and slower.

I would look at the data space you are using  and replace it with an SSD. If you are using say 160gb a 250gb ssd may be enough.     From the research i did it's not an app i would pay for by any means.Thank you for all of your answers. It has taken me some time to respond because I have been traveling, but also because it has been quite a challenge to sort this all out with a great deal of confusing and conflicting information. I will take this a piece at a time. Please be aware, I am familiar to some extent with all of this, but no expert. I look forward to any suggestions on where I have done something wrong.

Patio – I had tried to use the diagnostics for HGST earlier. When I open WinDFT, the program they suggest here https://www.hgst.com/support/hard-drive-support/downloads, no drives appear on the list. Then I find at places like this https://www.lifewire.com/windows-drive-fitness-test-review-2624565 and others who say that test can't scan the hard drive that Windows was installed to. Which means, I assume I can't use it for my hard drive. So – I then went looking for other options. Also – I don't believe I paid for PartitionGuru. I think I am using a free version. Why don't you like that as an apt?

DaveLembke – I used crystaldiskinfo last night and again this morning. Last night I panicked. The Health Status was Red -  Bad. The only item on the list that was bad was the first one – Read Error Rate. I did some investigating on that and saw something somewhere about that not being a critical item. I was going to find that information again today to see what that means. However, when I just ran the test this morning, the Health Status shows Blue – Good!! with the Read Error Rate showing what appears to be appropriate numbers.
         
As I said, I went looking for other free diagnostic tools and found several lists of options. From them I choose and did:

HD Tune  http://www.hdtune.com/. The Error Scan appears to be similar to PartitionGuru, but only gives two options – OK and Damaged. Mine was all OK. You will note my PartitionGuru results also said none of the sectors were damaged, but they appear to be declining in quality. According to the HDTUNE web site, the free version (which I downloaded) was supposed to include the Health (S.M.A.R.T) option, but when I click on that tab it just says “Health Status n/a” at the bottom.

SeaTools for Windows by Seagate  I ran the Long Generic Scan and passed.

As MENTIONED in my original post, I also did a diagnostic through Dell and my hard drive passed.

So – where does this leave me??? My hard drive seems to be passing tests. I still get the message that “Windows detected a hard disk problem” which apparently some people just find an irritant and find ways to stop the message from showing up. On PartitionGuru it would appear that the quality of my sectors is declining and I did have one damaged sector which I repaired.

Then, there is one new problem. I have now been getting an error message from Intel Rapid Storage Technology that says “your system is reporting one or more events and data may be at risk.”  And then issues with the disk at Port 0. When I follow that I get the option to “reset disk to normal” which I have now done several times. When I have looked online to try to figure out what this means, most of what I read suggests my hard drive is failing. If my hard drive is failing, my plan is to buy a new computer. I would like to do that before this one fails so I can have an easier transition. My big question is how fast should I move, or in DaveLembke's language, how quickly if I do have a cancer,  is this cancer likely to be spreading?

Robthe drive is failing...I don't suppose there is any way to know how quickly?If i could say that i'd be in the stock market...and independently wealthy.years ago under XP, I had a PC which MS reported at every boot, "hard drive failure imminent, backup now" sort of messages.
that PC managed to go for another two years.

the reverse of that is I've had PC's  shut down after a full days use without any signs of issues only to not start the next day with dead drives.

so basically, "how long is a piece of string?" would apply here...
with hindsight being a wonderful thing, replace drive/PC ASAP or at the very least - backup, Backup, BACKUP.  The "Windows detected a hard disk problem" message(s) comes from SMART. SMART (Self Monitoring, Analysis, and Reporting Technology) is a feature that has been integrated into hard drives for some time where the drives are able to monitor and report certain statistics about their health.

CrystalDiskInfo is pretty straightforward in presenting this information. Fundamentally it is a series of values and their thresholds. Items approaching those thresholds are cause for concern and values going beyond their thresholds are of greater concern still.

Hard Disk failure is not something that can be reliably predicted. But a drive that is failing SMART and is reporting unrecoverable read errors is not one that I would bank on lasting much longer. As Mark says, It could very well last you for years, or the next time you POWER it up the drive may be completely undetectable and refuse to work at all.

I've had drives show signs of failure that lasted for years afterwards. I've got drives which report as "Caution" or even "Failing" in CrystalDiskInfo for example which are still working. But I don't trust any of them and they got replaced and moved to other computers which don't do or store anything important.


I would like to thank all of you for taking the time to comment on my dilemma. Many of your comments have HELPED me to feel less guilty about the possibility of buying a new computer while this one may still work for a while. Clearly there is no way to know and I just need to make the best decision now - which is to buy a new computer soon, hoping I beat the "crash". Meanwhile, yes, I am constantly backing things up. So - thanks again! RobinIf the current PC is adequate no need for a new PC...it is however time for a new hard drive...Everybody is tight. In some way or another.

Bottom line...
The cost of a good hard drive is less than almost anything else.
You can get a used hard drive that has been pulled from commercial service due to upgrades. Such drives are often in excellent condition. The price is so low yu buy two and use the one that works best.

A quick search on eBay for 3.5 SATA 250 GB shows over a dozen for sale under $15 and free shipping. What is your  time worth?   Do you pay yourself minimum wages?

Just get a replacement drive! 

On of many, may on eBay:
Western Digital 250 GB  US $13.99

That seller has a very good reputation and has done a lot of business. And there are others like him.
EDIT: Correction. That is a 320 GB and 7500 Rpm. That is even better
Just get a replacement drive!  I would never buy a used HDD...

my friends monitor screen goes blank after 1-2 hours of use. I traded monitors with him and they both work perfectly, his monitor with my system and my monitor with his system. it only happens when he is using his monitor with his system. both systems run windows 10 and were built by me. my system is beefier than his. his drivers for his GPU and monitor are up to date.

 

his monitor: Samsung 24" CF390 Curved LED Monitor   model code: lc24f390fhnxza https://www.samsung.com/us/computing/monitors/led/samsung-24-curved-led-monitor-lc24f390fhnxza/#specs

Screen Size   23.5"                                               Display Type  VA

Resolution  1920 x 1080                                       Aspect Ratio  16:9
Brightness   250cd/m2                                          Static Contrast Ratio   3,000:1
Power Supply Type     AC 100~240V                    Power Consumption (Typical)     Max 25W
Power Consumption (Stand-by)  Less than 0.3W Max Stand By Power (DPMS)        Less than 0.3W
HDMI input     Yes                                                 Mac Compatible    Yes

Windows Compatible    Yes                                  Samsung MagicBright   Yes
Samsung MagicUpscale     Yes
 

my monitor: Acer S1   Version s271hl Dbid

 

his COMPUTER:

mobo: GIGABYTE GA-H110M-A (rev. 1.0) LGA 1151 Intel H110 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128873

memory: Ballistix Elite 4GB Single DDR4 3000 MT/s (PC4-24000) DIMM 288-Pin Memory - BLE4G4D30AEEA https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820156132

power supply: EVGA 500 B1 100-B1-0500-KR 80+ BRONZE 500W Includes FREE Power On Self Tester Power Supply https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438012

HDD: Seagate 500GB 5900 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" (ST3500414CS) Internal Hard Drive https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA5AD1R56040

GPU: XFX Radeon RX 480 DirectX 12 RX-480M4BFA6 4GB 256-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 CrossFireX Support Video Card http://www.amd.com/en-us/products/graphics/radeon-rx-series/radeon-rx-480
 

 

OS Name    Microsoft Windows 10 Home
Version    10.0.16299 Build 16299
System Manufacturer    Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd.
System Model    H110M-A
System Type    x64-based PC
System SKU    Default string
Processor    Intel® Celeron® CPU G3930 2.90GHz, 2900 Mhz, 2 Core(s), 2 Logical Processor(s)
BIOS Version/Date    American Megatrends Inc. F20, 11/8/2016
SMBIOS Version    3.0
Embedded Controller Version    255.255
BIOS Mode    UEFI
BaseBoard Manufacturer    Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd.
BaseBoard Model    Not Available
BaseBoard Name    Base Board
Platform Role    Desktop
Secure Boot State    Off
PCR7 Configuration    Binding Not Possible
Windows DIRECTORY    C:\WINDOWS
System Directory    C:\WINDOWS\system32
Boot Device    \Device\HarddiskVolume2
Locale    UNITED States
Hardware Abstraction Layer    Version = "10.0.16299.98"
User Name    DESKTOP-EK8NPU5\Terry
Time Zone    Eastern Standard Time
Installed Physical Memory (RAM)    8.00 GB
Total Physical Memory    7.95 GB
Available Physical Memory    4.95 GB
Total Virtual Memory    9.20 GB
Available Virtual Memory    4.85 GB
Page File Space    1.25 GB
Page File    C:\pagefile.sys
Device Encryption Support    Reasons for failed automatic device encryption: TPM is not usable, PCR7 binding is not supported, Hardware Security Test Interface failed and device is not InstantGo, Un-allowed DMA capable bus/device(s) detected, TPM is not usable
Hyper-V - VM Monitor Mode Extensions    Yes
Hyper-V - Second Level Address Translation Extensions    Yes
Hyper-V - Virtualization Enabled in Firmware    Yes
Hyper-V - Data Execution Protection    Yes

Just PICKED up two computers at a steal of a price, an Elitebook and a Thinkpad and need to UPGRADE the CPU in both of them... both of them have socketed CPU so they can be easily changed without a mainboard replacement

I'm looking for the fastest second gen quad core mobile i7 for the Elitebook that will work with dedicated graphics and a 90w power adapter as this will be my video editing machine when I'm on the go

I'm not wanting to get the fastest 4th gen quad core mobile i7 for the Thinkpad since that's outta my budget but wanna know if a LOWER speed quad mobile i7 would do me good or could I just pick up a top of the line i5 dual core.. this is my "gaming" computer and I wanna get better performance when I'm playing older games like GTA V as my current setup with an i5-4300m 8GB ram and GT730M graphics and get around 45FPS at 720p with that setup but my CPU is pegged and is currently the bottleneck of the system making me have input lag about 75% of the time

what do you recommend? i've asked around and nobody can tell me what would be a good choice for me to pickupYou should post the Model #'s of both units for proper advice...

There is a ton of versions of both units... Quote from: patio on December 03, 2017, 09:08:20 PM

You should post the Model #'s of both units for proper advice...

There is a ton of versions of both units...

Bump

1 will take a CPU upgrade...1 will not...what has your research found out ? ?

From what I have found the EliteBook uses a  PPGA988 Socket.

Aside from BIOS support, the most important aspect is Wattage. For that system the CPU would be limited to 35W. The Wattage is not limited by the Power Supply- it is limited by the Voltage Regulators within the system, And, from what I can find, in the case of this system, it is 35W.

Some options that fall within that are the Quad Core i7 3632qm. For slightly cheaper, there is also  the Dual Core i7-3540M. The Former looks to be about $90 USD on eBay, just as an example. (Buying these new is pretty much out of the question from what I can find)


The Thinkpad uses FCPGA946. I also found a list of supported CPUs for it:

Intel Core i7-4900MQ
Intel Core i7-4800MQ
Intel Core i7-4600M
Intel Core i5-4300M
Intel Core i5-4300M
Intel Core i5-4200M
Intel Core i3-4000M
Intel Core i7-4700MQ


The 4900MQ looks to go for around ~$200 on eBay.

I am buying a new tower pc from HP. But in my place HP desktop tower computer only have i3 7100T whereas I wanted NORMAL i3 7100. I know the Power OPTIMIZED Lifestyle VERSION is low on power. I only do light COMPUTING (MS office, internet surfing etc.).
Will 7100T be enough for me? Does anybody have it? Can I buy i3 7100T or will it cause any problem such as slow speed? Please help ASAP.

I can not use my computer since the brightness level is on 0%. Last time I used my computer I set the brightness down to zero and in a hurry I closed my laptop like that. Now I turned it back on but the screen continues to be black. Adjustment keys F2and3 on keyboard do not work and yes I have been trying it with fn lock. I can not do a thing since the screen is black. Have been trying to restart it by using onoff button several times, plugged it completely out. Nothing. Screen still black. Help!

THANK you!what about trying to get into the BIOS via Esc, F10 or Del (or whatever it is for your laptop)?
the hope is the laptop won't honour your brightness level when entering BIOS and I've seen some BIOS versions where you can change screen brightness from there.

and just to clarify, you have tried F2 or F3 with the Fn key, what about without it?
as some LAPTOPS have the Fn key preset to ACTIVE or not, meaning to use the F key special action, you only need to hit that F key without Fn.Id boot to safemode and make the corrections there and re-boot...

So I was playing a game and suddenly my pc froze, couldn't do anything but switch the power switch. When I try to turn it on again, my pc won't boot/post into bios, just a black screen and my monitor won't get signal. I then replaced my motherboard and power supply to see if my problem would be resolved. I tried almost everything from resetting cmos to unplugging everything and plugging it back in. I think either my ram or my cpu is faulty but I'm not sure. There is no beeps or LED's indicating anything failed. Can anyone help?


Specs:
CPU: Intel i7 7700k
Motherboard: msi Z270 Gaming M3
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 gb 3200 MHz
CPU Cooler: Cryorig H7
PSU: Corsair TX750w 80+ gold rated
Storage: Samsung 250 gb SSD
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2Tb
Gpu: msi gaming 1070 ti
Case: NZXT S340have you removed the video card (if present) and RAM. cleaned their contacts and MOBO slots and reseated those components?
if you do have an add-on vid card, and an integrated mobo ONE, try RUNNING without the add-on vid card.
and try only one RAM CHIP at a time.

Hi there guys. So, I want to build a good gaming PC with an AMD graphic card that will run the latest games smoothly, and with a budget around 500-670. So, I need to know what the parts I need to build a gaming PC with an AMD graphic card. However, the games that I will play is Watch Dog 1, Watch Dog 2, GTA 5, FALLOUT 4, DayZ, Battle Ground, and also I will record the gameplay not going to live stream.

Thanks.Will you need just the COMPUTER or other things like monitor and such? Can you go higher in the PRICE if it means gaming at higher detail? Quote from: LOSTCOAST on December 05, 2017, 10:35:57 AM

Will you need just the computer or other things like monitor and such? Can you go higher in the price if it means gaming at higher detail?

Would the parts be purchased in USA and delivered the same?

Just a quick backstory (feel free not to read). BUYING a computer has been an incredibly daunting experience for me. After I saved up enough money, I spent a lot of time researching the best laptop for me and went with the Dell XPS 15 9560 UHD, refurbished at $2239 AUD from ebay. It was the cheapest I could find, MSRP going at about $3000. Contrary to reviews on refurbished products, it turned out to be loaded with defects and the warranty was inactive. I then bought the same thing from Dell, but it had a hardware issue that made is basically unusable. Since then, I've FELT overwhelmed and I felt like I've really had it.

Everyone on the internet is pointing towards building a PC, so that's what I'm inquiring about. I have a fair amount of general knowledge of computer parts but not enough to know exactly what I'm doing when it comes to building my own PC, especially with compatibility. I'd like some general advice but ALSO suggestions as to the parts I should get, and advice when it comes to compatibility. The biggest thing I'd like to know is how much it would all cost roughly, but I know that would depend greatly and it could be hard to calculate considering I'm in Australia. The only reason I'm thinking of building my own PC is because it's cheaper. Other benefits are just a bonus. That's why I initially went for a laptop.

Budget: I have $3500 AUD to spend, but it would be unrealistic to spend that much. I think $2000 - $2,500 is more than good enough.

What I'll be using it for;

• General purpose.
• Graphic designing (nothing too intensive, just for study).
• Light to moderate gaming. Better specs are a bonus, but not a necessity. I'm new to PC gaming, and I'm not certain I will even enjoy it over console, so it's a bit of a risk, that's why I'm not going for a gaming computer.
• Music production, maybe. It's something I've wanted to do for a decade but never got around to.

• Build quality, good service for parts and warranties.
• i7 (8th or 7th gen), 16GB RAM, SSD (128GB or above), 1060 GTX or above.
• 4k monitor, medium size (21 - 27''). Stability is a bonus.
• Quality keyboard, flat (NOT mechanical).

• I don't need a customized and upgradable PC. I don't need RIDICULOUS performance, I most likely will not need to upgrade anything and I don't have specialized requirements for what I do. In fact, a mid priced laptop would be sufficient for my needs. That said, need and want are two different things.
• I'm extremely indecisive and careful when spending money. I'll walk into a shoe store several times a week for a month before deciding on a pair of $60 shoes. Salesmen hate me.
• I'm not too tech savvy. I have some general knowledge, but it would still be difficult, I think.

I have 2 logitech z623 and a car sub in my room and i'm USING 2 y splitters to make it work and i'm not liking it, i found this.
 
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Alctron-4-Channel-Studio-Headphone-Splitter-Amplifier-1-4-TRS-Outputs/131620783328?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
 
and it looks pretty good but its designed for HEADPHONES, what would happen if i plugged 3 of the outputs into my speaker setup. the input would just be aux from laptop.

obviously each set of speakers has their own amp so my guess is that it would be okay, but i would like some opinions
 
Cheers, Single output driving 3 others with a 1 to 3 adapter or two Y's in series could cook the audio amplifier of the sound card. Additionally audio quality will likely be horrible as the wave forms amplitude is getting crushed by trying to drive into three amplifier inputs so it wont sound as clear and possibly muffled some.

I've done a Y with headset and LOOPBACK when mixing music for fun to hear it as I am play/recording where I send the output back to the input of the same sound card. Never connected more than 2 on a single output like that.

A BETTER setup would be to have an amp that connects to the PC through a single connection that has auxiliary outputs from that amplifier to drive other devices as a team of speakers etc. I have connected a PC output to auxiliary input of a stereo for example that supported surround sound and that was safe from COOKING a PC Sound card.

Hey everyone! Lately, I've been having a persisting problem with my computer. I edit films and whenever I'm in the rendering stages, or even just idle in Adobe Premiere my computer crashes. I get a blue screen error with either the message WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR or CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT. I'm not sure if it's an overheating issue or not because my computer has fairly decent cooling, but it only happens when I do something CPU Intensive, it quite obnoxious. Here are some specifications from my computer if it helps!

Tech Support Guy System Info Utility version 1.0.0.4
OS Version: Microsoft Windows 10 Home, 64 bit
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-4790K CPU 4.00GHz, Intel64 Family 6 Model 60 Stepping 3
Processor Count: 8
RAM: 16335 Mb
Graphics Card: NVIDIA GEFORCE GTX 1080, -1 Mb
Hard Drives: C: 118 GB (9 GB Free); D: 931 GB (146 GB Free); E: 904 GB (98 GB Free);
Motherboard: ASRock, Z97 Anniversary
Antivirus: Windows Defender, Enabled and Updated
Hi, unfortunate turn of events for you.

You likely have a driver issue, when did you update your drivers last?
Where did you get the ones that you updated with?I updated my drivers about a month ago, and I got some drivers from the ASROCK websitehas the processor been overclocked?
have a temperature monitoring program, say Speccy, running in the system tray to tell you the temps right before the next BSOD happens. Quote from: watsthegod on December 15, 2017, 07:33:27 PM

I updated my drivers about a month ago, and I got some drivers from the ASROCK website

What is the make of your GPU?  Is it Asus, EVGA, Gigabyte, MSI.....?

<edit> Also your drives are pretty close to capacity </edit>

has the processor been overclocked?
have a temperature monitoring program, say Speccy, running in the system tray to tell you the temps right before the next BSOD happens.

My GPU is made by Nvidia, and I got it around a year ago.

No, it's not made by nVidia, they make the chipsets nothing more
I bet you have the wrong GPU driver, amongst other drivers

So I built a computer following this tutorial: https://youtu.be/OoWzSp6SS5c

For the most part, this is an amazing BUILD. I however have this weird issue where, on occasion, I get no video feed on startup. I've corrected the issue a couple times, but only temporarily and I don't even know what actually helped. I've tried force shutting the computer down and restarting, but that doesn't seem to HELP. I've also disassembled the computer and rebuilt it, but still nothing. My only thought is that this issue happens when I force power down instead of doing it the proper way, so I figure restarting it using the OS might fix it, but I can't see anything.Have you tried a different display?

I had a system that the display was connected but not detected occasionally and after 3 boots i might get it to see it. I ended up moving the cable to display to another display PORT which was DVI and the video was defaulting to the other port with no display attached to it because it didnt detect the display at the second DVI port. I thought I foxed the issue by using the topmost DVI port instead of the bottom port, but the monitor completely DIED 2 weeks LATER so it was failing slowly on me. If you dont have a spare display maybe borrow one from a friend and see if it still has problem using their display. If you have 2 monitors connected, swap what ports the displays are connected to and see if the problem follows the display.

my monitor wouldn't turn on a week ago after a power outage , after a day i plugged it back in and it worked for another 5 days , yesterday i turned it off and REMOVED the plug, now ot does the same thing, when i plug it in the screen GOES a bit darker but no sign of power even on the power button even tho windows recognises it (makes sound) . I opened it up and looked at the power supply but all seems fine and the capacitors look in great shape (not buffed at all). What can be the problem? A display that was stressed by a brown out or surge as PART of the power outage could be damaged and you where fortunate to get 5 extra days out of it vs being dead on the day of the problem. Looks like a NEW display is needed. If you have an extra display available to test with you could isolate it better to the display itself as the problem. If computer has HDMI output to connect to a TV or you have a TV with VGA input and it has a VGA output you could try connecting computer to the TV and see that the display shows fine on the TV etc, then know for certain that the monitor is the problem and not video cable or video card etc. Its most likely a dead display.what's the AGE of the monitor?
make and model?  (some have the default 12 months but others have 3 years)
under warranty still?  or extended warranty when you purchased it?

Hopefully I can explain my issue. I have a laptop with a cord that ATTACHES from it to the BACK of a Monitor. I used to be able to turn my Monitor on and shake my mouse and my screen comes on and I get right to WORK. NOW....Everytime I turn my monitor on, it goes staright to blank blue screen. So instead, I have to open up my laptop and push the power button and wait for my laptop to come alive and once the screen saver SHOWS...I can close the lid and it will pop up on my Monitor. THEN...I can get to work.

Does anyone know how I can set it back so I just turn on my Monitor, shake my mouse and Viola..I'm back to the grind? Thinking if you use sleep or hibernate mode it will keep the last display preference. This wont help though if the laptop is sometimes used as a laptop vs a desktop in which the last use of it was as a laptop with its own display only.

I'm replacing a motherboard in my HP Elitebook 8460p since the GPU in it died and two ports are broken.... I got this computer for cheap and even with a motherboard replacment I'm spending less than $100.... I can go with a motherboard from an HP Elitebook 8460p, 8460w, 8470p or 8470w as they will all fit in the 8460p chassis but am sticking to the 8460p or 8460w boards since I need the dedicated graphics of the older machine.... now should I go with the 8460p board with Radeon HD 6570M graphics or the 8460w board with AMD FirePro M3900 I don't know anything about this FirePro card and don't know if it's the same as the 6570m card but just for professionals but my video editor requires a Radeon HD 6000 series graphics card and don't wanna go with the FirePro M3900 if it won't work well with my video editor.... should I stick with the 6570M or bite the bullet and go for the FirePro M3900? Ive been rendering without a graphics card for awhile now and am ready to get rendering done in 15 min compared to 3 HOURS

what do you guys think? need some suggestions Are you sure that the software your using needs a heavier video card (GPU) to process a video editing job? You could have a better GPU and it still take 3 hours.

The software that I use for video editing are CPU intensive and not so much GPU. Video editing with a 35 watt TDP laptop is still going to be slow even with a better GPU I am thinking unless the software itself taps into the GPU to do what it does.

 Software I use hits all CPU cores to 100% while processing a video editing / conversion job to create the end result. The GPU is only used when playing back what was created etc. A recorded video game event that is an hour long takes about 3 to 4 hours to make into a smaller and edited version for youtube etc. I generally have my system run this when i am sleeping and I wake up and its done in the morning. Dave: Modern Video editors have supported off-loading many rendering and encoding tasks to the GPU if the GPU supports it, starting around 7 years ago.

As an example back when I used to make videos on my old system, Video editors were able to offload processing from my Q8200 to my 9800GT which caused many things to be faster than if I had not had the graphics card- often twice as fast. The two graphics chips mentioned are in the same time frame and look to support the same features that are utilized by most Video Editing software.


As to the two chips, it seems that the Radeon is over twice the performance. However, even then, it is hard to say- because the Radeon chip doesn't have OpenCL, and the FirePro card supports OpenCL 1.1 which could very well allow for much greater use of the GPU by the video editing software.

The Radeon is likely to give the better overall experience, I expect- it is twice the performance in almost EVERY other aspect I could find. Quote from: DaveLembke on December 08, 2017, 09:04:23 AM

Are you sure that the software your using needs a heavier video card (GPU) to process a video editing job? You could have a better GPU and it still take 3 hours.

The software that I use for video editing are CPU intensive and not so much GPU. Video editing with a 35 watt TDP laptop is still going to be slow even with a better GPU I am thinking unless the software itself taps into the GPU to do what it does.

 Software I use hits all CPU cores to 100% while processing a video editing / conversion job to create the end result. The GPU is only used when playing back what was created etc. A recorded video game event that is an hour long takes about 3 to 4 hours to make into a smaller and edited version for youtube etc. I generally have my system run this when i am sleeping and I wake up and its done in the morning.

Dave: Modern Video editors have supported off-loading many rendering and encoding tasks to the GPU if the GPU supports it, starting around 7 years ago.

As an example back when I used to make videos on my old system, Video editors were able to offload processing from my Q8200 to my 9800GT which caused many things to be faster than if I had not had the graphics card- often twice as fast. The two graphics chips mentioned are in the same time frame and look to support the same features that are utilized by most Video Editing software.


As to the two chips, it seems that the Radeon is over twice the performance. However, even then, it is hard to say- because the Radeon chip doesn't have OpenCL, and the FirePro card supports OpenCL 1.1 which could very well allow for much greater use of the GPU by the video editing software.

The Radeon is likely to give the better overall experience, I expect- it is twice the performance in almost every other aspect I could find.

hello,

My printer model is Canon MP282. I wasn't using it for quite a while and it shows the error message that it cannot RECOGNIZE the cartridge (Err05).
I bought a NEW BLACK cartridge.

When I insert cartridges C (color) and B (black) the orange LEDs for B and C are blinking, like so:

insert C only -> blink B
insert B only -> blink C
insert C+B -> blink C+B

E05 appears every time


My question: with the new black cartridge and an old color cartridge -> shouldn't only C blink to indicate that B is recognized?

not sure if I buy new C cartridge or new printer 

p.s.: I had E05 once in a while and cleaning the contacts on cartridge and printer helped ... not this time, though On older printers its best to replace both cartridges at the same time...then run clean OPERATION 3 times.I was looking into the manual and it states that the two orange led, left and RIGHT, indicate the status of C and B ink empty, respectively. With the new B ink I bought right led should not blink, theoretically  the software also states that black ink is empty 

i updated driver & software to the latest still nothing changed.

how long was the printer idle for?
have you run the cleaning processes?
there may be dried ink clogging a nozzle or the printhead or something.
did you get refill cartridges, and non-genuine, as they can sometimes be non-detected by the printer.Printers are the new Bic lighters...when they run out of butane throw them away

I am TRYING to power the CPU on my ECS Z97I-DRONE motherboard (https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16...). However, I do not have the correct cable and I cannot find one to save my life! Here is a picture of the power port on the motherboard:

https://i.imgur.com/gLP4Wq0.jpg

and here is a picture of the power port on the PSU:

https://i.imgur.com/xTMjWjA.jpg

I just don't want to buy the wrong power cable and blow it all up so any help would be much appreciated!so you don't have the unused CABLES for that power supply that came with it?

with those PSU's with the modular cabling systems (you only plug in the cables the PC needs), I've never seen the cables sold SEPARATELY but I haven't looked too hard has it was simpler just to GET a new PSU as they all come standard with a 4+4 CPU power plug and the 20+4 mobo power plug.They shoulda been included...most PSU modulars ship with extra actually...You should contact the manufacturer of the PSU and arrange for/purchase the correct cable

Hello to the whole team.

I have a problem with the 2nd hard drive (D:\ ), Ι use it as a storage disc I have all my programs and photos etc.
The disk is Seagate ST500LT012 500GB .
I have it files in it and just opened it is empty and all I see is $Recycle.bin and System Volume Information i not have access.
I have lost my files forever?
I can recover them?
Please help me

Thanks to allhttps://www.piriform.com/recuva

This tool has worked for me. Whatever you do dont format or mess with ADDING files to that partition as for that will mess with your ability to recover files. Be sure to have enough free space on a healthy drive to copy your data that is recovered to.

After your data is recovered you can run crystaldiskinfo to test the hard drives health and see if it is failing or is it was just file table corruption in which the drive might still be healthy to continue to use after formatting fresh after data recovery to an alternate drive. Future use of this drive I'd be CAUTIOUS with important data to save also in another location on a different drive to avoid data loss. Cloud storage is also available such as 15GB free storage space at Google with Google Drive. Just need to register with gmail to get a 15GB cloud for free.The problem is i can't see my files but only see the $Recycle.bin.Τhe disk is full of files.
The only way is recovery?Ι try the EaseUS Data Recovery and i find a lot of my files but the names of the folders and files are like this  o___---o__s.
Ιt's hard to make renames at 500gb HDD from beginning.
There is no other way?


DaveLembke thank you very much for your answer.recovery programs are a last clutch of the straw gamble.
if you have no backups of your data (shame shame shame) than they are your last throw of the dice.

it all depends on how screwed up your drive/data is.
recovery software tend to only read the MFT to find the first extent of a file, from there it's pie in the sky magic time.

too many factors influence your recovery changes, like, how the data was lost, drive usage, format type, fragmentation etc.

if the recovery software can get the files back, even with crap filenames, then you have to take what you can.

but give Recuva a try too, it is very popular, so one would surmise, also good.Hi

I agree with both Mark and Dave

There is some things to look at before starting a recovery. These are general things and apply to all recovery attempts.

Remembering Daves advice of not writing to the drive you are recovering which is very important.

Check the health of the drive I use HDsentinal as it works on USB connected drives so you can start windows and the HDsentinal and then quickly power up the drive as a USB device. If it detects, check it's health if it is showing as ok then it is probably safe to to do the scan for files on the original drive.
If it has bad sectors or other likely problems you should look at MAKING 1 or 2 raw copies of the drive with software or a hardware copier. Linux has DDrescue which can be very successful in coping ignoring bad sectors. 

But in this case it is most likely the drive has been reformatted. So if the drives hardware and media are ok which hdsentinal will test then you can look at the software recovery options.

Data Recovery software is as much about the quality of the software as the knowledge of the person using it.
For example Recuva is AMAZING software and it has a full free version. It is a bit harder to use than the easues and other programs but in some situations gives more detail of the condition of the files.

So the NEXT step is to investigate what you are working with.
What format is the drive currently if Fat32 it is likely the drive when it had the data was NTFS  which is good.
Is the drive set-up as GPT if so will the recovery software work with GPT drives.
How big is the recycle bin and I assume it is empty? when was it created which could show when the drive was formatted.
Is the partition showing as the full size of the hard drive (you can get this info from HDsentinal).

With the above info you can then decide on the best recovery option. A program  to look at which is  free to try , but costs to recover files is  Active File Recovery
 http://www.file-recovery.com/

I see the latest version has the HD health similar to HDsentinal so you may not need hdsentinal.

If you run a trial version of the software and post some screen shots I will happy to check and see if a better recovery is possible. 

********I have no affiliation to any of the software vendors I recommend. All advice is from Personnel experience**********

I bought my laptop last year. But my laptop have proble several days ago. Sometimes my laptop SCREEN isn't bright and has some black stripes. I fixed in a service center few TIMES, but it isn't better. Can you help me?In the meantime a monitor or modern TV COULD be connected to it for a display.

Whats is the make/model of it to FIGURE out if its worth servicing or just buying another cheapie or just use it like a desktop computer with a external monitor?You should FIND out if it's still covered under warranty, call the maker of the laptop.

hi all
today i decided to fix my USB port. i uplugged the wrong connectors. instead i unplugged the control cables. i struggled to get tem BACK in on the motherboard spikes. i needed to test the right spikes for the power sw cable so in had to test every two spikes. i switched the pc on and off several times untill i GOT to the right  place for the cable. now the pc doesnt want to BOOT into windows. i checked my bios settings..my drive is undetected. all cables are INTACT...did my drive fail because i switched the pc on and off several times??? am i screwed???
Please provide pictures of what you did. Trying to figure out what spikes your talking about.  Quote from: DaveLembke on December 07, 2017, 01:33:12 PM

Please provide pictures of what you did. Trying to figure out what spikes your talking about. 

Sounds like the front panel headers.

I have an HP Officejet 6500A Plus 10n-z printer that is about 4 years old.  It has always printed very reliably until recently.  It has a USB connection to my LENOVO Desktop, Windows 7 Pro 64 bit.  I made a greeting card with Print Shop 23.1 Deluxe and when it printed the card, the image printed had shifted to the left so that part of the border ended up on the back side of the card.  At first, I thought it was Print Shop, then I remembered that I'd been having a problem making copies whether I put them on the glass or through the feeder, the tops of documents were much closer to the top of the page than the originals.  I went to HP and got a new driver to see if that would help, and it did not.  I'm really stumped on this one.  Does anyone one have any other suggestions?  I hate to buy a new printer as this one prints well other than the misalignment of printed matter.  Thank you,Short answer. Yes, bu a new printer.
Aparrently threre are no user adjustable mecahnbical featers. The documentation never talks about repair of parts taht have wore out physdically. Years ago llyou could get any part for a printer. That was back when a printer costs about  $1000. Now lyu buy a new printer fo under$200.

Amazon
HP Officejet 6500A
Used & new (13) from $115.00 + $14.49 shipping

From personal experice, that is the best advice I can koffer you.     Thank you for your reply.  I was afraid that was going to be the answer, but I kept hoping that there was some way of getting Old Faithful to re-align itself.  I knew I shouldn't have had COSTCO refill my spare cartridges last week!   On those printers, Paper can ball up and then get stuck to the right of the print cartridges which prevents the printing from moving all the way to the right, and it thinks the paper stopping it is the margin stopper so it thinks that is the rightmost side of the paper.

If you open the cover, after a short time the cartridges should pop out from the right- then you can look and see what might be blocking it.


I did as you suggest, but there was no paper caught up.  Lots of BLACK ink splattered back there though!  I can't ever remember having a paper jam with this computer so the chances of finding anything were slim to none, but I checked anyway.  Thank youI found a forum thread where somebody else was complaining of a similar problem; somebody else then reported that they examined the INSIDE of their printer and found a paper jam; and then there were 3-4 pages of people over the last few years basically thanking them because they found the same thing, so it certainly seemed to be worth a look.

Only other idea would be to try to observe it attempting to print and see if the print head APPEARS to be unrestricted before completely abandoning that it may be mechanically getting stuck in some way.

I have TWO different printers, attached to my network an directly, connected to different machines.  I tried to RUN a single image through both printers and comes out blank.  However, if I print a text document it will print.  The thing that I don't get is that its able to run the black text out of the black cartage but, not when I print a picture there is no outline.  I just did a fresh install of the drivers on both of the units, since, they were not setup/installed to work with them prior. 

HP Deskjet F4440 and HP Deskjet 3520Is the OS a legit OS or a cracked bootleg?  Somewhere on the web before I saw something like this happening with a cracked version of Windows.

If you have proper drivers for that OS then it should work as intended unless install of Windows is flawed or the printer itself has an issue. Given that both printers have same issue, then its most likely something wrong with Windows, and if its a cracked version of it or one that has been infected etc then you could be chasing your tail.

A fresh install of the OS could be a test to see if you can fix it that way, assuming your using correct driver for that OS, and the OS is not a cracked version of Windows.

Digging deep, only other cause I can think of is how the spooler service ties into this to where you could have a memory issue on the system so memtest86 should be run to make sure that all is WELL with the system memory. If the buffer for the printer is getting borked BITS then it can cause strangeness. For me with a RAM issue it was random ascii characters appearing in what i was printing, but I can see it also affecting formatting etc. BUT two different machines having same issues could point back to two machines with cracked OS's running sharing the same flaw.  how old are those printers, or more to the point, how long have they been sitting idle?
what are the chances that both printers have a dodgy colour cartridge?   slim I realise for both printers to go the same way at the same time, but if they have both been mothballed for some time....

so you can print a text document (black and white) but not an image (colour) ?

So basically this has been happening lately and very offtenly. The thing is that when I play video games my screen completely freezes, the keyboard is still working and the sounnds are incoming but not action can be DONE. All I can do is hold down the power button. Lately it has been freezung even when Im not doing anything all I have is my screen desktop. And when I turn the pc off by power button after that when I try turning on the picturr isnt DISPLAYING on the monitor but the computer is turning on. I have unpluged eeverything and checked the insides if everything is pluged in properly oe if there is any problems. When i FELT the graphiccs card it was extremly overheated and the mother board was pretty hot too. Ive tried many things but its still does the same thing like usual.Sounds like heat to me...whens the last time you did housekeeping inside the CASE >? ?

NOTE Do NOT use a vacuum...canned air is BEST...use a soft brush to move any heavy dust bunnies...and when blasting fans use a Q-Tip or other to hold fans blades in place...

Let us know how it goes.Do you know if your cooling fans are actually spinning?

The only thing that CHANGED was I connected to a different monitor, installed a 2nd SSD and connected the motherboard speaker.

I tried disconnecting the speaker, 2nd SSD, and any USB ports. I also tried taking the CMOS battery out for 30 seconds. It gets stuck at the ASUS splash screen where it has the press Del or F2 at the bottom. It is the only thing I see. I can't even reinstall the UEFO/BIOS. I think it the latest version; it hasn't been updated too long ago.

Specs:
Motherboard: ASUS H110-A/M.2
RAM: 16GB DDR4 2133MHz 1.2V (x1)
Graphics: Integrated
Drives 1: SAMSUNG EVO 850 250GB M.2
Drive 2: Kingtech 60GB SSD/SATA (Disconnected)

~KamrynAre you getting any beeps or buzzes out of the speaker that you connected?I was getting one beep. It seemed to take longer then usual for the beep to start, maybe the computer is slower to start?I would suggest checking the connections from the PSU to the system, disconnect and reconnect each one - that will make sure that each one is SEATED properly.  Then try booting the PCI'm sorry for the delay in replying, I thought I already had.
It will eventually BOOT if I leave it for about 20 minutes.Try disconnecting the new SSD, see if it goes back to normal boot timesI found out the PROBLEM. I tried disconnecting everything, including the SATAs, which I thought I did before. The CD-ROM has gone faulty. I replaced it and it works now. I'm glad to hear that you got that sorted, good jobThank you for your help.

Well not THAT NOISY, but basically, I put it in a PC that was so silent that when the screen was off, I never could know if it was turned on or off. And i got put this card in, and noticed that i hear a sound from it now. I thought maybe its the new power supply i put in also... but when i tried to stop the zotac card fan with my finger all noise stopped, so that is the main source.
What i'm WONDERING is, is there a way to make it silent as a breeze? sadly the PC's bios offers absolutely no fan control option. Speedfan does not detect the card as a fan, msi afterburner says that its at its lowest, and that i can only increase it.
Here' s a link to this card, do you think it could be oiled or cleaned easily to become silent as a breeze? https://www.zotac.com/us/product/graphics_card/gt-630-synergy-edition-1

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve SPACE]Take it to a big box PC store and match up the fan for a replacement...That's a really low end card, and Zotac is famous for using unbalanced fans
Your best bet is what Patio says and try to replace the fan with a higher quality unit

  I would strongly ADVISE that you DON'T oil it 
Quote from: sirgilmour on December 17, 2017, 09:00:41 AM

do you think it could be oiled or cleaned easily to become silent as a breeze?

quantos, what's your issue with oiling? 

what about blinker fluid?

I don't disagree with you, just saying, it has very, very low risk, but as I state in my 4th point, it is a short term fix.
but a viable fix none the less.

the aerosol oils, like CRC230 or WD40 etc, are non-conductive and non-corrosive.

let's agree to disagree and stay on topic.

This morning, I was using my computer normally, nothing seemed unusual, other than my Ethernet cable not being recognized by my motherboard. I waited a while and rebooted and the light for the Ethernet cable being detected came back and the computer started working as normal. After about an hour, I needed to print something and decided to plug in my printer USB cable. As soon as I plugged it in, the USB port started smoking, and before I could turn off my computer, it shut off itself.

At this point, I made sure that the smoke and smell emitted from the computer was indeed from the USB port and NOT from the PSU. I assumed that this fried USB port could be due to the port being unused and undusted for months. I waited about an hour and then turned on my computer. All LED lights, fans, ACCESSORIES (keyboard and mouse), turned on as normal. I was able to change settings on my keyboard and changed light options. All fans within my computer, 4 external fans, CPU fan, GPU fan, were all working as INTENDED. However, there is no display. I'm not quite sure why.

I have two monitors, one is connected via DVI port and one is connected via HDMI port, both to my GPU. However, neither seem to be recognized properly. After turning on my computer, there is no smoke or smell being emitted. My next step plan is to open up my computer and dust it out, and SEE if the visible capacitors on the motherboard are fried.

I have turned off the computer, unplugged all plugs and turned off power (PSU). Unfortunately I dont have any spare PSUs, motherboards, or GPUs to troubleshoot with.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Motherboard:
GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3 AM3+

GPU:
EVGA GTX 960 SSC 4GB

CPU:
AMD FX-8350Update: The USB port is physically attached to the motherboard. That is, there are no visible connectors and it is connected underneath a metal coating. I opened up the case and looked for physical markings on the USB port, motherboard, and GPU and can't seem to find any. Even directly at the point of smoking (the USB Port), there are no physical signs or fried capacitors. The GPU fans power up as normal and it seems to be running as intended. There is no smoke, or smell coming from the computer after turning it on. And all peripherals still work as intended. I've also tried unplugging all peripherals, and leaving only the HDMI cable and power cable connected. This does not seem to make any difference.Still no display at all ? ?
I would go down to 1 monitor only to troubleshoot...with DVD connector.
Do you see a BIOS splash screen at least ? ?
From your inspection i'm thinkin you got real lucky and all that burned was the dust...

Keep us posted.looks like your mobo doesn't have an INTEGRATED graphics card which is a pity, you could have removed your graphics card for testing purposes.
does the PC make any beeps when you start it?

just how dusty was this USB port?
USB ports have the positive and negative pins on each side (with the data pins in the middle), keeping them as far as part as possible.
are there any bent pins within the mobo USB port or the USB printer cable?
was it a front USB port? (these are notorious for bent pins as people leave USB devices plugged in and they knock them around)Have you tried disconnecting the mains power lead for 5 minutes then try re powering up if it still won't display then the motherboard needs replacing. I suspect if it was the USB3.0 that smoked which looking at page 8 of the user manual with the block diagram. The no display suggests you have a faulty AMD990fx chip Which is not replaceable. STRANGE with the protection Gigabyte put into the usb port circuit you would be able to burn anything out. If you do need to replace the motherboard
the CPU, RAM and graphics card should be ok to use. I would recommend getting either a new computer or an Up grade box.He's running a vid card...see above.

And i doubt the board is fried.

How bout we wait for a response ? ?Hi Patio

If you check the Motherboard block diagram you will see that the 990 chip controls the PCIe * 16 slots i.e the video card. 
The purpose of the 5 minute power rest is to see if the usb protection can be reset.
If the above doesn't work then I would be replacing the mother board 
 I still say we should wait for a response... Quote from: Mark. on December 17, 2017, 02:37:28 PM

looks like your mobo doesn't have an integrated graphics card which is a pity, you could have removed your graphics card for testing purposes.

I'm running into a problem and wanting some HELP... I'm wanting to force some sites to play streamed video in 240p or 360p or 480p without a manual setting on the site and it automatically assumes my internet can handle 1080P and forces that and I get content buffering.... my display is only 720p so some of the resolution is wasted as well... I'm limited to google chrome as the site won't run on anything else... any suggestions? I've installed a data saver extension for chrome and it just finds a way around it and forces 1080p and the content buffering happens again.... any help would be good! i'm willing to try everythingMore details are needed.
What operating system do you use?
Describle you r computer. Is it a laptop?
What bideo graphics do yu have?
What monitor do uou have?
Which video streaming service does not let yu use lower resolution?
Do yu know you actual internet speed?
Do you shae yur connecton  with others?
Are you using a Wi-Fi router? Is so, what brand and model?

Norfmall a video streaming service with automatically select the best data rate for you. What kind of errors are you getting?
Quote from: Geek-9pm on December 17, 2017, 11:28:58 PM

More details are needed.
What operating system do you use?
Describle you r computer. Is it a laptop?
What bideo graphics do yu have?
What monitor do uou have?
Which video streaming service does not let yu use lower resolution?
Do yu know you actual internet speed?
Do you shae yur connecton  with others?
Are you using a Wi-Fi router? Is so, what brand and model?

Norfmall a video streaming service with automatically select the best data rate for you. What kind of errors are you getting?

Hello.My main computer's screen is broken the computer is a HP Stream 11.Ok so question is where can i BUY a brand new screen for my laptop?I want to fix my computers screen not use an external monitor,screen Photo:https://imgur.com/a/4oDfqI see screens for your laptop LISTED on Ebay. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1311.R8.TR11.TRC1.A0.H0.Xhp+stream+11+.TRS0&_nkw=hp+stream+11+screen&_sacat=0

If you buy from Ebay, make sure the seller has a good rating.you will need to be handy with tools and pulling things APART and re-assembling them.
working on laptops is no trivial matter.  Unless you do it exactly right you can make a bigger mess of it, I agree with Rosbert - take it to a shop and spend the EXTRA getting them to do it.
That way if there's a mistake you have an avenue of RECOURSE+ 1 Quote from: RRRR99 on December 11, 2017, 11:05:25 PM

Hello.My main computer's screen is broken the computer is a HP Stream 11.Ok so question is where can i buy a brand new screen for my laptop?I want to fix my computers screen not use an external monitor,screen Photo:https://imgur.com/a/4oDfq

Hello,
 
I know a lot of people have this ISSUE and there is a lot of "solutions" to this but from what i tested it isnt working.
 
My rig:
Ryzen 1700x
GTX 1070 Gigabyte G1
Memory Ram 16GB DDR4 2400MHZ
 
 
Im playing games like CS:GO and LOL with 150 Fps and some times it GOES down to 30-50 fps
Where are your vid drivers from ? ?

Are these online games ? ?...if so connetion issues or server issues on their end can cause the above...

More info.Both games are played online, I suspect drivers too thoughI suspect Mr. MUSTARD...in the parlor...with the pipe wrench.Both games are online and i play them with 30-50 ping usually. My internet is good and i download at 4MB/s.
All the drivers are updated. Bios is updated too

ThanksWhere are your vid drivers from ? ?

That was the question...I have the GEFORCE application, i update from thereLatest drivers aint always greatest drivers...1 of the issues that crops up with GForce...

Revert back to the latest drivers from the card manuf. site...

Re-boot after.I did that, still the sameThen it's the connection...or the game servers...Thats probably not it because its happening in every game, im having below avarege fps, and im playing without lag, only low fps and some freezesWhat brand is your GPU, don't say nVidia - they don't make GPU's Quote

GTX 1070 Gigabyte G1

I purchased a Projector a few months ago and I have just noticed that it says it can run at 144Hz, which is what my Benq monitor can run at. The problem is the Projector only has HDMI ports and I thought you could only get 120Hz from a Hdmi ports? I'm further confused because I only seem to be getting 60HZ and there's nothing allowing me to GO higher in the Nvidia control panel? 60Hz is as high as it goes.

How do I get a higher REFRESH rate on this projector using my Pc? My Geforce 1080 graphics card has Hdmi, Display port, and a dvi port. The projector is a 3D Projector, so I need it on a port that also supports 3D. Below is what it SAY about the projector and I have also put a link up for the Projector I purchased. Appreciate any help..

Full 3D The GT1080e can display true 3D content from almost any 3D source, including 3D Blu-ray players, 3D broadcasting and the latest generation games consoles. Support for 144 Hz rapid refresh rate provides ultra-smooth flicker free images. The 3D-sync port connects to 3D glasses (sold separately

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Optoma-GT1080E-1080p-Lumens-Projector/dp/B01D4EE9B4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1514184242&sr=1-1&keywords=Optoma+GT1080E+Full+HD+1080p+Short+throw+3000+ANSI+Lumens+DLP+Projector

Hello, I recently built my first COMPUTER, I built it all to the manuals, or at least I think I did.
I turned it on for the first time, and it went on for like three seconds, then it turned off. Then it would not turn back in again. I soon realized that I had put in the computer on button and the other front panel connectors in completely wrong, so I rearranged them correctly and the computer still did not work. Did I fry it? Or maybe there is some other problem that I missed in the manual, if anyone could tell me if I fried it or not that would be appreciated.Reversing the front panel header WIRES won't cause damage to the PC...

That being said 3 things to check...all MBoard standoffs in place ? ?...was thermal paste applied properly to the CPU ? ?...and is CPU fan seated fully and proper ? ?what is the make/model of the MOTHERBOARD?
maybe it has LEDs to indicate a fault.
what about the POST (Power On Self Test) beeps, how many do you hear when starting?

did you put the front panel headers on the right pins but the wrong way AROUND, or on completely wrong pins altogether?
like, the power button must have been on the correct pins but you had the HD LED pins shorting out two separate group of pins?