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My old CRT recently stopped showing anything (black screen) when I turn my computer on. But it works with other machines. I replaced the video card, with no improvement. I tried connecting directly to the mother board-still NOTHING. Do I need a new motherboard, or could it be another problem? The power pack works, and the hard drive spins.

Hardware AmateurI would reseat the RAM and check it.try to use other monitorAs it was PREVIOUSLY suggested, try using another monitor first. If it doesn't work either, then it must be a hardware issue (probably bad RAM and/or CPU).

Try if you can borrow a monitor and tell us. If it doesn't work, we shall continue from there.

I have a sony vaio laptop, current HDD is 320 GB; can I upgrade to "Hitachi Travelstar HDD: 5K500 B-500 / MODEL: HTS545050B9A300" ?
Yes, but why do you want to ?? You'll be paying $100 for 120GB extra.

Why is backing-up your files, to give more space, not an option?OR purchase an External HDD of whatever size that suits your needs. truenorthHi

Sony Viao Laptops are some of the hardest laptops to get at the HARD drive. Normally you have to  remove the keyboard and front palm rest. If this is the case then i WOULD agree with getting an external hard drive. If you do replace the internal drive either copy the current drive to the new one or make the viao recovery DVD's, well you should have done that already.  This will ALLOW you to restore the laptop to factory.

I have 2 kids going to college, trying to deside if a TABLET would be better, or a tablet computer ( one with hard drive and keyboard that flips to look like a tablet also.
ThanksHere is a site that offers advice on various tablets and the pros and cons of them. http://reviews.cnet.com/tablets/
Just as a bit of INFORMATION RIM the manufacturer of the Blackberry Has just announced today that it is offering it's tablets at dramatically reduced prices because of some recent company issues with it's blackberry service. I imagine their motivation is to try and induce buyers of other competitor's products to come to theirs. The 16 gb is reduced by $300.00 to $199.00 the 32gb to $289.00 and the 64GB to $399.00. I am NOT ADVOCATING you buy one nor am i in a position to COMMENT on the company or their products. However if you decide to go the tablet route you might want to investigate that offer. truenorthI would recommend the Asus Transformer prime, it's due out in the USA in December and early January across Europe. It's a the first tablet to use a quad core and it also has a keyboard you can attach if you like.

http://www.nvidia.com/object/tegra-asus.htmlI would look into how the machine will be use. Does it need to be portable or not? For basic PURPOSES, both laptop and desktop could give you the requirements.

I have win 7. and I have a Hard Drive that has win xp on it so I connected it with a USB to my computer so I can copy some FILES I had on it.

Well when I try to copy ANYTHING off the Drive it tells me....You Do Not Have Permisson.

I click the Continue Tab and it just says the same thing.

So I Log On to the ADMIN account in safe mode and it still happens.

So I am trying to take Onership of the Drive and just need to know one thing?

I am at the screen were it says....Type The Group Name that You Want To Have Ownership of this device.

Am I right it wants my account Name??It would be your account credentials for the NTFS partition by which that XP drive was created I believe. This is a mismatch between your local systems credentials and this drive which disallows pass thru authentication. I'd try using the credentials by which the XP system was using for the data you need and see if that works. Quote

Am I right it wants my account Name??

Take Ownership of a File or FOLDER
Applies To: Windows 7, Windows Server 2008 R2

The owner of the object controls how permissions are set on the object and to whom permissions are granted.

The Take Ownership permission on an object or the Restore files and directories user right are the minimum requirements to complete this PROCEDURE. Review the DETAILS in "Additional considerations" in this topic.

To take ownership of a file or folder
Open Windows Explorer, and then locate the file or folder you want to take ownership of.

Right-click the file or folder, click Properties, and then click the Security tab.

Click Advanced, and then click the Owner tab.

Click Edit, and then do one of the following:

Hi all,
 My GIRL frnd laptop DELL inspirion 1501 just FUNNY,when on,it will just shut off,no video and no booting.
I have reomed ram and tested with another system working perfectly.hdd also working,fan is spinning but for few sec.What could be the PROBLEM?

I am using a hp pavillion slimline s 3400t intel core 2 duo e4600 2.40 ghz cpu speed is 2.40 ghz/fsb speed 800 mhz
the bios is a phoenix-award bios v6.00pg

I have been unable to get my computer to boot up os. I tried going in and reseting the bios after installing a new battery. I talked to someone in chat who told me that my mother board was most likely the case.

could someone help me figure out what kind of mother board would be the best for my desktop ?

•Manufacturer's motherboard name: Irvine
Form Factor•Micro-ATX: 19.0 cm (7.5 inches) x 17.3 cm (6.8 inches)
Chipset•GeForce 7100/nForce 630i
Socket type: 775
Motherboard supports the following processor upgrades:
•Intel Core 2 Duo (Wolfdale) E8xxx
•Core 2 Duo E6xxx (Conroe) up to E6850
•Core 2 Duo E4xxx (Conroe) up to E4400
•Pentium E2xxx series (Conroe) with Dual Core technology up to E2160
•Celeron 4xx series (Conroe) up to Celeron 440

here is a link to ebay of possible choices
http://computers.shop.ebay.com/Computers-Networking-/58058/i.html?CPU%2520Type=NVIDIA%2520GeForce%25207100%2520%252F%2520nForce%2520630i&rt=nc&CPU%2520Socket%2520Type=LGA775%2520Socket&_nkw=irvine&_dmpt=Motherboards&_fln=1&_ssov=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m282



 

You have not provided enough information to determine if the motherboard is faulty.  The fact that it doesn't boot the OS does not mean the mobo is bad.
Even if the mobo is bad, do not attempt to reuse the slimline case.  It's too much trouble.  Cases are only $20-40.Computer_Commando
 should i start a new thread with my problem or explain here ?No, continue here.

BTW, your motherboard

This will help if you have to get into it further:
http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c00877796.pdfmy problem started after i replaced the battery for bios. After i replaced the battery, the computer wouldn't load past cmos. if i hit F10 entering set up will display across the screen and then sit there or will immediatly enter set up.

i have set the time and date to proper and saved have also turned on the boot DIAGNOSTICS. The boot diagnostics says Initializing usb controllers but STOPS there.

I have also tried reseting the cmos by using the jumper and powering up with just the monitor plugged in to see if my keyboard or mouse could be the problem

someone suggested checking my boot menu
" am in bios right now. I see that my cd drive is listed as first and my hard drive is second. I am doing a smart extended self test right now on the hard drive. So far i have passed the smart status check and the smart short self-test. I havne't seen any thing listed as the third boot option but i will check after my test is done."

"Are you talking about the boot device priority ?
1st boot device is the floppy group
2nd boot device cd-rom group
3rd boot device hdd group
4th boot device network boot group

floppy group boot priority not installed
cd-rom group boot priority not installed. ( i have the cd drive unplugged right now)
hdd group boot priority ST3500630AS
network group boot priority not installed"

"am i to assume that i need to make the hdd group first and the floppy group the 3rd boot device ?

In main tab 1st drive is cd-drive and 2nd drive is the hard drive."

"moved the hdd group to first priority and made the floopy group 3rd priority. even plugged back in cd drive. still not loading."

"i am now able to load past the boot up screen but after that the monitor goes black so i think im not accessing the os"

I have also tried start up with no drivers plugged into mobo and the bios battery unplugged. have also taken ram out and tried one at a time to see if i get any post beeps

 





 



 

i have also made cd drive first and hd second according to another person's suggestion
Quote from: mazza on July 20, 2011, 06:06:22 PM

1.  my problem started after i replaced the battery for bios.
2.  Initializing usb controllers but stops there.
3.  I have also tried reseting the cmos by using the jumper and powering up with just the monitor plugged in to see if my keyboard or mouse could be the problem
4.  am i to assume that i need to make the hdd group first and the floppy group the 3rd boot device ?
In main tab 1st drive is cd-drive and 2nd drive is the hard drive."
5.  i am now able to load past the boot up screen but after that the monitor goes black so i think im not accessing the os
6.  I have also tried start up with no drivers plugged into mobo and the bios battery unplugged. have also taken ram out and tried one at a time to see if i get any post beeps

1.  Your 1st post says it was before you replaced battery.
2.  If you have any external USB drives installed, unplug them.
3.  Every time you remove battery & reinstall, you must enter BIOS & F10 , Save & Exit.
4.  Boot priority is fine, even if device is unplugged.  FDD 1st, CD 2nd, HDD 3rd, Network 4th (turn off).  HDD priority is correct if ST3500630AS is the boot drive.
5.  See if it will boot to a bootable CD.
6.  Leave CMOS battery installed, unplug all drives.  Some computers will hang at BIOS, others screen will go blank as if it were trying to seek boot device.

At this time, it seems to indicate the HDD is corrupted.
You can test the hard drive & at the same time see if it will boot a CD
Since it's a Seagate HD,  get the SeaTools ISO to create a bootable CD.
http://www.seagate.com/ww/v/index.jsp?locale=en-US&name=seatooldreg&vgnextoid=480bd20cacdec010VgnVCM100000dd04090aRCRD

Using MagicISO to make bootable CD
http://www.magiciso.com/tutorials/miso-make-bootable-cd.htm

Since it won't boot from the HD, you may have to do a repair install from the HP Recovery CD's.
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=bph07143&cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en&product=3708937

F11 at the splash screen will access the Recovery Partition located on the HD.  This will reinstall the OS as it was when the computer was shipped.  You will lose everything you have installed & all personal files.
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c00814731&cc=us&lc=en&dlc=en&product=3708937&tmp_track_link=ot_search

The only way around I can see is hooking the Hard drive on a good known running PC, connect and try reinstalling OS. If Initial Setup was made, Cancel and by then you know who's hardware fault will be.

Try the SeaTools CD you made from the iso on any computer, just to see if the CD functions.  It should boot and has the capability to test most all brands.

Hi,
I have 2 Epson R200 printers, 1 of which I keep as a spare. I haven't USED the printer for about a week and when I switched on the printer went through it's normal cycle but then the 2 red lights flashed and the printer wont go any further. I've tried everything I can including holding down different combinations of the 3 buttons but I still get the same result!
I then got out my spare Epson R200 and I can't even get it to switch on, the carriage seems to be locked as it will not move at all manually, it's just my luck that both printers decide to go awol together. Another problem is that I live in Tenerife so there isn't any SERVICE people I can turn to.

Help please,

Dave


Hi Dave,
Just a daft one, but have you checked that there is definitely nothing jamming the printer ie small bit of paper etc. OTHERWISE...
 
It appears that is a problematic printer. It could be down to 2 things. Firstly try following this http://www.resetters.com/download/r200-ap.zip?osCsid=ab829996c33c98f4adbe0d9d147c6e1 link to which it will download a zip file with an EXE file to run. Unfortunately I can't test this as I don't have the same problem, or the printer  This is supposed to be a program that resets some of the software on the printer to make it show error signs when it is not supposed to.

If this does not work, then there is another fix that might work. There is a conflict with XP SP2 with this printer. If you have XP SP2 then this i meant to be the fix for it:
Quote

FOLLOWING http://HTTP://TINYURL.COM/6QG39
Solution
Download the DOS Application Patch for Windows XP Service Pack 2 (part number 6945970000). After downloading the file, double-click it and follow the on-screen instructions to install the patch, which will restore the missing file needed for running DOS-based programs and processes in Windows XP.
TURN OF COMPUTER RESTART THEN RE INSERT PRINTER DISC AND RE INSTALL

I live in Tenerife so there isn't any service people I can turn to

Desde el 2002, año de nacimiento de Mantenimientos Informáticos Tenerife, hasta hoy, la empresa a evolucionado a la vez que las necesidades de nuestros clientes. Nuestro personal técnico, con más de 15 años de experiencia, la calidad de nuestros productos y un servicio profesional adaptado a sus espectativas, hacen de Mantenimientos Informáticos Tenerife una opción que responde a todas y cada una de las necesidades informáticas

Con la finalidad de ofrecer soluciones integrales al cliente o empresa, hemos ampliado la oferta de servicios.

    Reparación de ordenadores portátiles
    Implantación de redes inalámbricas
    Venta de equipos informáticos
    Punto de venta o Partner de ASUS, Acer, HP, Epson, LG, Conceptronic, Benq y Microsoft
    Recuperación de datos
    Hosting y diseño web
    Presencia en internet

Para más información llámenos al 922 26 41 33.

http://mitcanarias.com/servicio-tecnico/

Hi all,
I have a Lexmark PRO901 here which is refusing to print in colour. I have installed brand new colour cartridges which are definitely seated properly. The printer is reading that the cartridges were full when I put them in, and after I TRIED printing and photocopying a few things the levels have gone down, which I'm guessing is inaccurate considering not a single drop of colour is on the paper. I have updated the firmware to the latest version and that has done no good. I have tried printing from Windows 7 and Mac OSX for good measure, but, UNSURPRISINGLY it made no difference.
I've also tried cleaning the heads, aligning and every thing else I could see.
I'd REALLY appreciate any help.
Thanks,
LukeI wouldn't even reply, but I managed a printer service center a few years back so you might say, I've seen it all.  Well, almost.

Go into the control panel for that printer and make sure it's NOT set to text only or 'Black' only.
I'm not sure of the exact wording for a Lexmark printer.

If you had an Epson, I could be of more help.  Sorry.

 

fyi, It was a faulty printhead and after being on the phone to Lexmark for AGES they eventually sent out a new one, along with new cartridges for free. Not bad.

sorry for not getting back. just found this old TOPIC.

Hi all!
I've been thinking about overclocking my AMD Athlon LE-1660 (2.80GHz, 1CPU) for a while now, and I was just wondering what I need to do to overclock it?

I am running Phoenix BIOS ("P01-B0" - Linux specs "Award WorkstationBIOS v6.00PG" - WINDOWS) on "Packard Bell" Mobo (WMCP78M).

The system is upgraded with a new coolermaster-chassi, 630W PSU and 4GB of RAM (DDR2), but for the REST it's STILL the same old Packard Bell iMedia S3210.

(The following are the specs provided by on my processor by the linux-third of my PC)

Code: [Select] *-cpu
          description: CPU
          product: AMD Athlon(tm) Processor LE-1660
          vendor: Hynix Semiconductor (Hyundai Electronics)
          physical id: 3
          bus info: [email protected]
          version: 15.15.2
          slot: Socket AM2
          size: 2800MHz
          capacity: 2800MHz
          width: 64 bits
          CLOCK: 200MHz
          capabilities: x86-64 boot fpu fpu_exception wp vme de pse tsc msr pae mce cx8 apic mtrr pge mca cmov pat pse36 clflush mmx fxsr sse sse2 syscall nx mmxext fxsr_opt rdtscp 3dnowext 3dnow up extd_apicid pni cx16 lahf_lm svm extapic cr8_legacy 3dnowprefetch lbrv cpufreq
          configuration: cores=1 enabledcores=1 threads=1

Hello Im new here and Im very happy for that .Please can you can help me? I have an old trigem monitor . suddenly the screen picture moves in all direction (jumpy,wavy). some people diagnose it as electrical interferences, but no electrical device beside my COMPUTER. can you help me to no the exact reason please. also Iwant to know about the function of the monitor menu buttons and  all choices of these buttons.
Many Thanks
Mona ramziSometimes magnets can mess up a monitor too, but as this is an older monitor, I am thinking it is just going out on you.  Typically older monitors will start to dim and get fuzzy after a while, sometimes they take a while to TURN on, sometimes the color fades, and sometimes the picture can get goofy.

I hate to say it, but I would suggest looking into a replacement.  If you are using an older monitor, people are basically giving them away right now, you can probably find a used old monitor for a few DOLLARS if you check around.  See if any friends or neighbors might know where to locate one, or check a thrift store.  If you'd like something a little nicer, this can be the perfect excuse to upgrade.  I think a NORMAL 19" flat-screen monitor goes for about $99 now, and it would be a good investment as you would then be able to use it on any other computers you may buy down the road.Just to ensure that your issue is actually the monitor and NOT the graphics card for instance. Try the monitor on another computer . If it behaves the same way then it is most likely the monitor. When you say old i assume it is a CRT monitor? truenorthTry degausing the monitor with the menu provided in front. After you can test it on a different SYSTEM. And if all do not prevail, just buy a new one.

Hi Everyone,
I am currently using a compaq presario CQ60 laptop and running Windows Vista Home Basic on it. My DVD Drive has been set to Region 1 and due to this i am not able to access my DATA CDs any longer. I need help on how to reset it back.
Any help would be appreciate.Here is a comprehensive guide to regional codes settings including how to change them . CAUTION pay close attention to the number of times this action can be performed.
http://www.gromkov.com/faq/faq2004-0063.html
truenorth3 times on most... Quote from: patio on November 20, 2011, 06:48:44 AM

3 times on most...

The situation is i can't access any CD or DVD on my machine again after the region was set.

Yep. Do you think removing and replacing the drive may solve the problem?

I had a 2TB external hard drive connected to my computer.  The external hard drive is a Fantom Green Drive.  The computer it was connected to was my MSI GT660R-004.  It has 2 500GB drives and a core i7, my operating system is windows 7.  On the computer are 2 VIDEO games a couple movies 2 music albums and photoshop elements 7 along with 7-zip.

Previously I had the hard drive connected to my Vaio vgn-nw350f it also has windows 7.

I had information on a 500 gb hard drive previously but wanted something bigger, so I moved all the information to my Fantom drive.  When I got the MSI I wanted to put the files on there as well so I would have it on my computer and the external hard drive would be a back up.  The information was no long on the 500 GB hard drive as I gave it to my husband.

As I was copying stuff to the MSI the computer suddenly said the device was no longer connected.  I checked all the cords, power cord was fine the drive was powered up and I could still here it spinning.  So I checked the usb cord, it seemed fine but I TRIED a different one just in case, the computer didn't recognize the drive at all.  I tried a different usb port and still nothing. 

I connected it to my vaio to see if there was a problem with the MSI.  The vaio said there was a usb device connected but didn't seem to recognize what it was.  There was nothing showing for the drive under My Computer.

I decided to power down the drive while I tried to find answers but as I turned it off windows suddenly popped up saying Drive L needs to be formatted, but the power to the drive was already off.  Thinking I perhaps didn't wait long enough for the drive to be RECOGNIZED I restarted my computer in safe mode and powered the external drive back on.  I LEFT it for 15 minutes but the drive never showed up the entire time, yet when I powered it off I got the same message.

I have no idea what could be wrong with it and I'm sure you can understand it's frustrating.  The Fantom drive is only about 1 year old.  There are some pictures on there that I have no other copies of, they were the entire reason I was putting them on the MSI to have second copy Just in case.  It just figures doesn't it?   

If anyone could help I would greatly appreciate it.  I really can't afford the $500+ for a data recovery service.  Thank you for you help!Sorry I can not help you. This kind of problem is more common than people realize. There is, as far as I know, not exact embracing answer.

Do not format the drive. Under some conditions the drive will be accessible again. The USB interface is not stable for large drives. Perhaps the information can be recovered by just trying another computer.

On suggestion. Leave the computer and the external drive off-power for a few hours. Then power the external drive first, then power the computer. Wait a about 5 min to see if the computer now can recognize the external drive correctly. This stuff can be a huge pain. Leaving it alone and coming back to see if it connects sometimes works.
Try the hard drive on a different comp it hasnt been attached to before
Go to Device Manager and delete it and see if it reintalls the drivers.
Trying tons of different stuff and quickly copying once it does is about the best you can do.
Sorry man, Drive eat Drive world out there.You might want to try http://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/TestDisk to recover lost partitions and the data that was in them.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822204079
Doesn't seem like a Tier-1 drive manufacturer to me, especially judging from this review:
Quote

Pros: Price, storage capacity, rebate, nice-looking aluminum enclosure. Mine contained a Western Digital Caviar Green drive.
Cons: The UNIT eventually died. I was forced to choose to either send the whole thing for service and risk losing my data, or void the warranty by removing the sticker over the enclosure screws.
Pretty stupid to have to make that choice when it's just a standard OEM drive and a normal enclosure. I buy and swap internal HDDs all the time; this one was no different.
Other Thoughts: I chose to void the warranty and open the unit. It was never dropped and always treated well, so fortunately the WD hard disk was completely intact with all my data.
It was Fantom's enclosure that failed! And now they won't service it without a fee. So bad hardware + bad policy = 1 egg.
Also the unit came with a 2-cable transformer box (so no wall-wart!), but my girlfriend ordered one and it DID have a wall-wart, so YMMV.

I just inserted an identical 2GB RAM module in a Lenovo ThinkCentre COMPUTER. It actually worked quite fast with just the 2GB module, but I happened on an identical machine and took out the ram and put it in the one I'm using. It only registers 2.99 GB ram. How can that be when this machine can TAKE 8GB ram? Any solutions? Thanks.  This may be helpful:


Time of this report: 11/19/2011, 13:43:20
Machine name: 2PZ-OFFICE
Operating System: Windows XP Professional (5.1, Build 2600) Service Pack 3 (2600.xpsp_sp3_qfe.101209-1646)
Language: English (Regional Setting: English)
System Manufacturer: LENOVO
System Model: 6072A81
BIOS: Lenovo ThinkCentre BIOS Ver 2RKT38.0
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Duo CPU E6550 2.33GHz (2 CPUs)
Memory: 3062MB RAM
Page File: 532MB used, 4414MB availableIf you can remember when you had only the one ram module in what amount of ram were you showing? How many Ram slots in the computer and have you tried them all?truenorthWhat about the BIOS? Will it recognise all the gigabytes of RAM, or is it just Windows?
Also, bear in mind that 32bit operating systems might not recognize your RAM after a certain ammount. This doesn't apply while using a 64bit operating system though. Quote from: nickgr5 on November 19, 2011, 04:14:42 PM

What about the BIOS? Will it recognise all the gigabytes of RAM, or is it just Windows?
Also, bear in mind that 32bit operating systems might not recognize your RAM after a certain ammount. This doesn't apply while using a 64bit operating system though.

Hey EVERYONE, how many partitions should I create if I have a 32 GB HARD DRIVE that uses both fat 16 and fat 32?As many as you need...
KIND of a small drive to partition though...
Provide more details on your goals for the HDD.

Any DIFFERENCE between DDR3 and DDR3 SDRAM?
if there is can you please tell me which is better?
and why?No.No, a DDR3 is a DDR3.  DDR3 does come in different SPEEDS (1066, 1333, and 1600) so you MAY want to keep that in mind.  I would suggest the 1600, as that is most common and costs the same.  HOWEVER, the speed difference isn't too significant.  You may want to check with your motherboard manual to make sure you KNOW which types and speeds you can handle.

I see on  QVC Website they have  BNN Nook Tablet with  16GB onboard MEMORY  you can ad Micro SD card up to 32GB.

I know you can make text biger the Font for BOOKS but when you check e mail is the text Font GOING to be at the size you set it for when you are reading your book?

I ask because if you have bad eyes LIKE me and you change the font to read a book it sould stay that size to read everything

Dear Forum,
My new i5 2500K build won't power up. I am using a Gigabyte GA-Z68M-D2H board with a RoseWill 400 Watt Power Supply. When I press the power button, the power LED lights for a second or two, and the cpu fan turns on for that period, then they stop. I read somewhere that I need a 500 Watt or GREATER power supply. Is this a symptom of that?
Thanks!
Mike
 I'll assume this is your self built...
Did you apply thermal compound when assembling the CPU/heatsink assembly ?
Are all MBoard standoffs in place ? ?
Did the PSU have the additional 4/6 pin CPU power plug ? ?as far as i can remember, the i5 systems are recommended at least 600w. i am building an i7 self build, and have gotten a 700w to be safe, taking into account that I might be adding a 2nd HIGH powered graphics card in the future.
i'd recommend trying a higher powered psu.Hi Guys!
Thanks for the help. I checked the PS pins to gnd, and they seem to have a good ohmage value (not grounded), so I think the board is installed in the chasis OK.
I then unplugged everything but the 24 pin and 4 pin ATX connectors. I also unplugged one of the two RAM  sticks. It did the same thing. Power LED lights for ~1.5 seconds instead of ~1.0 second.
I then upplugged all plugs, shorted 15 to 16 on 24 pin, and powered up. The fan runs constantly, and all voltages appear normal, except the -12V measures -11.0V. I found a chart that says this should be OK, however; UNLESS it is going LOWER on load? (chart says limit is -10.8V) What is the -12V used for?
Thanks for your help!
MikeUpdate: I removed the board and powered up. It works! Must be something shorting out. I'll probably try a sheet of mylar under.
Thanks!
Mike
 I was thinking it was the motherboard mounted to the case as well.  Make very sure you don't have a stray standoff in place, as that touching a resistor or any other part of metal trace will ground the wrong part of the board to the case and cause a short.  I've had this in the past, I had forgotten to count all my standoffs and make sure I had the same ones lined up.  My motherboard would not start unless it was pushed in this one spot, which is where the standoff was that shouldn't have been there.  It was frustrating, but a relief when I found this out.

Hi guys,
Really annoying problem.
The other day I unplugged my PC at the mains (PC was turned off) and then plugged it back in, tried turning it on and nothing happens.
Unplugged everything from the PC and from the power EXTENSION and tried again, fans on the PC spun up for a second but then just stopped.
Power and Reset lights on Mobo started to flash after this was done.
Removed everything from Mobo (gfx card, RAM) and tried again still powers on for a second then turns off and lights go back to flashing (to stop the lights flashing I had to turn the PSU off.
Presumed it was the PSU that had failed so bought a new one (SilverStone STRIDER Gold SST-ST1000-G).
Installed the new PSU and plugged everything in and the same thing happens, power for a second or so and then powers off.
Unplugged everything but Mobo from PSU and tried again, still nothing. Unplugged all RAM and it then powered on.
Put one stick in, powered on fine, put Mobo 4pin into PSU and it then failed to START, unplugged it and it worked fine again.
Plugged everything in PSU testing one at a time and they all worked apart from when the HDD was plugged in, that had the same affect as the 4pin Mobo cable.
Did a few more tests and it's now stopped powering up again EVEN with only the EATX cable plugged in, RAM removed.
Unlike before when it fails to power up the Power and Reset lights do not flash, they remain constant.
Checked all components none, look singed or bulged. Checked CPU and it looks fine.
When the machine did power on even with it plugged into the MONITOR nothing was displayed.
Any help is appreciated .
Mobo: ASUS P6T
CPU: Intel i7 (Corsair H50 water cooling)
RAM: 6GB Corsair Dominator
PSU: SilverStone 1000watt
GFX: Nvidia GTX295

A widescreen Movie is a Movie that was shot on a Widescreen Film were the Film is Wider then High I get this.

And when you play it on a none widescreen TV you have Black Bars Top and Bottum.

This keeps the image in the same size as shot I get all of this.

Now I read on the Net about DVDs that say Enhanced Widescreen.

And they say the Stratch the Image on your none Widescreen TV to be a little Higher.

So this gives you Move Vertical Res. I get this to.

But if you start to stratch the image higher wont it look to stratched because you can go wider your TV allready has it filled to the sides?

So what am I not UNDERSTANDING?If by "stretch" you mean expand the DVD image while preserving aspect ratio to fill the height of the TV screen, clearly the width of the movie is going to exceed the TV's borders. If you are using a Home Theater PC for media you could just SELECT "Fit Video to Window" or something along those lines in your media player. If your DVD player does allow changing playback aspect ratio from 16:9 to 4:3 you could try that also.


This may help:
http://www.deskshare.com/Resources/articles/vem_videodim_aspect_dvd.aspx
http://www.ehow.com/info_8728262_people-widescreen-tv-stretched-out.html
http://www.greengart.com/Columns/column011.htm


On a side note, if you did manage to fit the movie into your non-widescreen TV without black bars, wouldn't all the people look extremely TALL and skinny?   Widescreen DVDs are encoded for widescreen displays, and even then they have black bars.That is just what I was thinking if you show a Widescreen movie on a None Widescreen TV and do not have Black Bars on top and bottum people will look very Tall and Skinny.

But when I look up Enhanced Widescreen on the net it tells me they give you move Hight on the Video.

And if you can't go out wider then how will this make anything batter???How will this make anything better? Enhanced Widescreen is meant to be used for true widescreen displays, not for standard 4:3 displays, and is also meant to minimize the space that the black bars take up. The black bars still exist because the movie was encoded for cinema aspect ratios, commonly 1.85:1 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aspect_ratio_(image)
http://www.dvd-b.com/Pages/Ana166.html
http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_6_4/feature-article-enhanced-widescreen-november-99.html
Quote

Why the fuss over the use of non-enhanced 1.66:1 material on widescreen displays? The fact that such transfers contain about 16% less resolution than their enhanced counterparts is one reason, but a more IMPORTANT one is that their proper exhibition on widescreen displays confounds some of the common solutions that work with other non-enhanced aspect ratios. If non-enhanced 1.66:1 is displayed using "4:3 letterboxed" mode, the image will be "windowboxed," with much of the display area wasted. "ZOOM" modes built into displays can scale the image to fill the screen, but often this functionality is poorly implemented, resulting in dreadfully inferior image quality.

I just bought this monitor (Hanns-G HK241 24 inch) and hooked it up. Everything worked fine until the next morning I saw that it was in sleep mode. I shook my mouse and pushed keys on the keyboard and it still wasn't turning on even though pc did after moving the mouse. I made sure it was plugged in and even tried plugging it in somewhere else. It doesn't have buttons so I can't say if its broke or not it has sensors instead of buttons. Anybody know what could possibly be wrong? It came with a cd for install but I didn't install yet, could that be the reason? I have WINDOWS 7Its most LIKELY the video chip or CARD or the whole system was not able to load from sleep mode. Have you been getting good RESULTS before when you are using sleep mode on other monitors? Did you read the Manual if indeed the CD needs to be used?

can any one tell me which is the video driver ic on the mobo ehich is responsible for video display



thanks

Salmon Trout  is telling the OP that the silicon for video is in the chip set. One would install the entire driver set for the Intel 845 board.
I have one of those. a real workhouse.    Quote from: Geek-9pm on November 24, 2011, 11:34:15 AM

Salmon Trout  is telling the OP that the silicon for video is in the chip set. One would install the entire driver set for the Intel 845 board.
I have one of those. a real workhouse.   

video driver ic

would imply a discrete IC. That board does not have one. The Video Drive is part of the chip set. What did you mean?

would imply a discrete IC. That board does not have one. The Video Drive is part of the chip set. What did you mean?

Qualifying Paper Guidelines
web.ccas.gwu.edu/dev/filehost/8/QP_guidelines_11_12.pdf
File Format: PDF/Adobe Acrobat - Quick View
They should also avoid the unnecessary pedantry that beginners associate with scholarly prose. Wordiness tends to obscure the ARGUMENT. Consider ...

BC, didn't know you. live on the eastern coast.

You can go to the above site and have no Little Idea** of what they are talking about because they do not use unnecessary pedantry.

Unnecessary pedantry, which is now a requirement for International English.
SO, it is more correct to say necessary pedantry in place unnecessary pedantry Those people on the eastern seaboard ignore the linguistic needs of the rest of the English-speaking world where pedantry is necessary and is not unnecessary anymore.

Dead mouse (touchpad & external) ~1hr after hard drive replacement on laptop


My touchpad is inoperative. 

I have a Gateway T-6345u laptop with Intel Pentium Dual T3400 2.16GHz; Vista 32 bit Home Premium.

The old hard drive died and I just replaced it.  Both were Seagate SATA.  I WENT from 250 GB to 500GB and cloned a full image of the old drive to the new using Seagate Disk WIZARD, then used Disk Mgr to expand the primary partition to utilize the additional space.

The laptop worked OK for about an hour. When I was trying to reinstall Kaspersky Internet Security, however, and restarted the machine, the mouse had frozen and will no longer work. Ditto for any USB external mouse, of which I have 2. I tried them both.  Since then ...24 hrs ago...I have only keyboard control.

Device Mgr now shows any and all mice as "Windows cannot load the driver...may be corrupted or missing."

I've deleted and reinstalled a fresh Synaptics driver for the touchpad, but the same error message recurs.  It shows in Dev Mgr as "Synaptics PS/2 Port Pointing Device" and NOT "Synaptics PS/2 Port Touchpad"
I also tried:

-Fn F6 or F7 - they don't toggle the touchscreen on/off on this particular model.
-booting into safe mode - no change.
-system restore - was turned off due to problem on old drive; so, no restore points exist.
-ran Ccleaner - no change.

I don't want to do a fresh INSTAL both because of the number of programs installed and because the Disk Wizard clone image is the best backup I have.

I presume I have a hardware conflict but have no idea how to proceed. Please help if you can.
try running Driver Pack Solution, which is a automated program and let it update all your drivers.
http://drp.su/download.htm

or you can download just the drivers specific to your laptop and manually install them
http://drp.su/drivers/notebooks/?v=Gateway&m=T-6345u&id=9607&l=en

After you do that TELL us if the problem still persistsWhat reason is there to think it is a software issue?
You can download a free minimal operating system that will find the mouse if it is working.
Here are three such links:
http://www.pendrivelinux.com/category/new-usb-linux-tutorials/
https://help.ubuntu.com/community/Installation/FromUSBStick
http://puppylinux.com/flash-puppy.htm

Of course these alternative OS have nothing to do with Windows. That is why you use them to check and see if the hardware can be found by an independent operating System. If Puppy Linux or one of the others can not find your mouse, your mouse interface has gone away. New software  will not bring it back to life.

After years of experience, I have never hears of a hard drive clone losing the drivers for the mouse. It is near IMPOSSIBLE. Random errors in sector translation, if that is what happened, would not selectively zap the mouse software and nothing else. IMHO.

The most lonely thing is your motherboard is failing and the drive failure was not the only thing that went bad.

hello buddies , today I SEE an error on my computer when i turned on that " cpu fan error press f1 to resume" , when i am entered to BIOS i found that "cpu fan - n/a" and cpu temperature is rising slowly from 39 to 47 ...
My system confg is - intel core i3 2100 - 3.1 ghz, Asus P8H61-MLE ddr-3, 2gb RAM ......

Could any one tell what is the problem ...Check to see if any wires and/or dust is impeding the fan...

I have an Antec Three Hundred case, with fan mounds for the top, back, side, and two in the front.  I don't want to max this thing out with fans, but considering I will have my Processor fan blowing, power supply fan going, and GPU fan going, any ideas how many fans I should consider, where to put them, and what direction of flow would be best?

I do already have the top fan blowing air out, and a side fan blowing air in, and will buy a rear fan - but not sure which direction for this blowing would be best?  The power supply is mounted on the bottom, and the GPU will be blowing air out the back and SIDES of the card.  (HIS 6850 card)

Any suggestions?  Please check into the case design specified above, and you'll see what I am working with. Quote from: Darthgumby on November 23, 2011, 07:56:16 AM

I have an Antec Three Hundred case, with fan mounds for the top, back, side, and two in the front.  I don't want to max this thing out with fans,
...

...
 and what direction of flow would be best?

I do already have the top fan blowing air out, and a side fan blowing air in, and will buy a rear fan - but not sure which direction for this blowing would be best? 
...

I thought it was more out than in?

I am going to update my CPU soon and was wondering what would be a good processor for gaming , for around 100 to 150 dollars. And also can you put a AMD CPU in a evga 780i mobo?. My specs are LISTED under computer specs, thanks.Looks like your motherboard uses a LGA 775 socket.  Looking up this socket, I saw it will take a duo-core Intel processor.  AMD would not be compatible, as Intel builds sockets specific to their products.  AMD does have some good quad-core processors for that price, but you would need a different motherboard for this.

My thought is, since you already should have a case, hard drive, CDVD drives, power supply, and everything else, you may just want to invest in a newer Motherboard/processor/RAM COMBINATION.  a decent motherboard will set you back $60-80 and a good set of DDR 3 RAM will be around $50.  A bit more saving up and you can really have a good gaming machine.I agree with Darth. Getting a Quad-core or even a Tri-Core is key for gaming. So getting a new mobo would be important. As long as you find a mobo that will work with your pre-existing components and will work with the new CPU. Running the AMD tri-core in a cheaper gaming PC and it does great. New mobo $50-80 bucks and the quad cores run from $100-$150, while the tri is about $80. RAM upgrades help too. $200 bucks and you should have a rocking gamer PC

Quick Note: Certain games only run off of one core so the GHz can come into play quite a bit. Most games nowwa days use all the cores so don't worry too much. Quote

Quick Note: Certain games only run off of one core so the GHz can come into play quite a bit.

alright. so im kinda the REPAIR man here trying to fix this Laptop. here's the story. my friend was using her laptop when she spilled lemonade on it, which the computer kept working after WARDS. she used the computer for about another 45 minutes before she shut it down. After turning the computer off she claims it wouldn't start for her no more. WHen i looked at the computer it wouldnt do nothing until i plugged the power adapter in. At that moment the computer turned on but had a blank display. I turned it off and then on again and the same thing. Now once again like she said, it wont do NOTHING. the power lights still show it charging but wont turn on. is there a way to clear bios maybe or something to get it to at least post? thanks for the help. No idea on specs sorry.i have taken the computer apart and there is NO decay from the drink, only the KEYBOARD is dirty. so what is the issue?I would try removing the battery...wait 5 minutes and hit the power button a few times with nothing connected...
Then hook up to the mains...no battery and see...alright. i took the entire computer apart. nothing. now it turns on ever time with a blank screen, once i got it to the bios but then it disapeared again. im not even using the battery anymore.Are you sure nothing leaked past the keyboard?

Remove the keyboard. Plug in a USB keyboard. Try again.i already did this thanks for submitting it. at first i noticed i was able to boot the machine when hitting a bunch of keys on the keyboard. then realized when unplugging it the computer booted. must be the acid from the lemonade that connected all the circuits in the keboardIf it works with the laptop's keyboard disconnected and a USB keyboard connect, the laptop's keyboard is likely messed up. The lemonade is closing the circuits on the keyboard making it appear that keys are pressed when it's turned on. This same thing happened to two laptops I've worked on recently, one with soda water SPILT on it and the other with coffee. Surprisingly, I was able to get the coffee keyboard working again, but the soda water one seemed to be permanently damaged as nothing I did to it would get it working correctly again. It ended up having to have the keyboard replace at a cost of $50 if I remember right.

If you can get under the keys and clean the keyboard, there's a chance you might be able to make it work again. The keys come off most laptop keyboards, but the plastic bits are very delicate and can easily break if removed too forcefully.

The reason it boots if you press other keys when booting is because it basically ignores the signal from the stuck key when another key is pressed and released. If you can do this to get into Windows, open NOTEPAD and test all the keys (or download some keyboard testing software) to determine which keys are the culprits and see if you can clean them.

Hello,
i recently bought The elder scrolls Skyrim Video game and my video card isnt cutting it. when i auto detect settings it sets to Medium quality. so i start playing and randomly the game CRASHES to the desktop.
I downloaded Evga PRECISION tool to watch what my GPU is doing and when it crashed it is showing that the GPU usage is 99%. ive tried over clocking and all that does is make the game LOOK glitchy.
So i am looking for a new GPU that will play Skyrim at the high setting. any advice on new GPU's or tips for over clocking or anything really would be appreciated.

My PC specs are as FOLLOWS...

motherboard - intel dp55wb
Processor      - i5 2.67 Ghz cpu 750
HDD               - 1TB western digital 7200 RPM
PSU               -  700W fatality
Ram               -  6 Gb DDR3 1333 Mhz (3x GB sticks)
Video card     - 250 GTS 1BG
OS                 - Windows 7 prof 64 bit

let me know if i missed something please thanks.i would recommend something hardcore like this
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Asus-GeForce-560TI-DirectCUII-Graphics/dp/B004K8R8DA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I3RDD8HJWAAYWG&colid=2XQ78PNKD36ME

its pretty good and comes highly recommended from top gamers. if your psu and mb can handle it and, of course, you're willing to fork out the money, then this is a winnervery nice card although im not sure if my MOBO / processor could handle that RAW powerI'm going to be getting a Radeon 6850 soon - looks like a decent card, and it's not too expensive.  I read it should run Skyrim pretty easily on high settings and it doesn't take as much power/heat as some of the higher-end cards.  Might be your safest and most practical bet.  Nvidia GT460 would be a similar card for the same price.i do some more looking at the 560 TI card and it looks like i would be able to handle it. the GT 460 is very nice card but i wanna GET a better one now so i dont have to upgrade in a year or 2.

i have this toshiba satellite a70 thats boots up for a second then it will automatically turned off after the logo of toshiba appears even if it is an AC power. i already checked the power cord and its ok, also checked the power switch and it is also ok. And one thing more, the power never stops when i enter the bios setup even it takes an hour but once you exit from the setup and the logo of toshiba appears it disconnects. The power led indicator it lit before and after it turned offIs this a SUDDEN problem? Or has it been like that from the start? After, doing a search on your laptop, it appears to be a design flaw with it, it appears to be static being released from the mousepad. I would like for you to remove the following:
RAM Cards,
Hard-drive,
Optical Drive,
Battery
all peripheral devices, i.e. just the bear essentials, and see how that fairs, and then slowly replace all the components REMOVED, until problem re-appears.

Warnings:

Be sure to properly ground yourself using an anti-static wrist strap.
also when removed battery, press and hold the power button for 30 seconds, before removing the components

let me know, how you get on.thanks, but i tried all what you'd said but its just the same problem, it disconnects. Im just wondering, can disconnections be happen if the processor has the problem. I mean what if the processor has the problem, what will happen? Have you tried booting to safemode(without networking) before the logo appears? What happens? Post the history and changes prior to the events occuring.NO, because safemode never had the chance to appear before it shutsdown, only the logo of toshiba then after micro second it shutsdown. And it only took probably 5 seconds after i turn it on then it disconnects.If it's shutting down that quickly then it's most likely a heat issue and the machine is trying to protect itself...
I'd take it to a service center for a cleanup.I dont its the heat issue, why it doesnt shutdown when i entered the bios set up even it takes half an hour of checking the bios. then when i exit the bios, boom, it shutsdown.Have you tried visually inspecting the PC and CLEANING, reinserting cables and components? You could check the processor and re-apply some thermal paste also. Taking out one RAM module, network card then try rebooting. Make sure to clear yourself from any static ELECTRICITY by touching the metal case of your PC.I already cleaned it  twice, put thermal paste on it, it doesnt have ram cards because it has an onboard  512 mb ram. I tried SWAPPING its processor with my other computer, with the same specs but the results is just the same, it shutsdown after about 2 to 3 seconds.Since it does not go off while on BIOS settings, did you check hardware descriptions such as hard drive is detected? Have you tried using a bootable disk or OS disk to see if its shutting down? Just cancel the operation if your able to boot from CD w/out the shutdown.I thought ive found the problem, tried to clean the processor, removed the hard disk and cd rom then turned it on and this time it never shutsdown. I then put the hard disk and automatically it shutsdown, removed it again, turn it on again then i now put the cd rom and it never shutsdown, then put the hard drive and again it shutsdown. So i pressumed the hard drive has the problem, so i removed it again then turn it on and it turns on but it was just for a couple of minutes only. I repeat all the procesess ive did but its just came back to the same problem, with or without the hard disk and the cd rom. Somebody help me!!!!Replace the HDD data cable and connect it to a different Molex connector....still the same ? ?My english isn't very good, I hope I can help you. I had the same problem, and I fixit changing the AC adapter. Good Look!
Replace the HDD data cable and connect it to a different Molex                                                                                                                                                                                  it doesnt have a HDD data cable, just built in connector.                                                                                           
My english isn't very good, I hope I can help you. I had the same problem, and I fix it changing the AC adapter. Good Look!
               What do you mean changing the ac adapter, do you mean you changed it to a higher voltage and amperes ? I would just like to ask if 3 amperes differential on the power supply makes a diffrence on the performance of this laptop. I mean this is not the original charger im using but it has the same voltage which is 19 volts but its short of 3 amperes required which is 6 amperes.

Hi, I bought this Dell Optiplex 270x computer a few days ago. As soon as I got it I promptly hooked it up and started it. The weird part was that the first time I started it up, it was loading and the screen went black, but the computer was still on. I HARD restarted it a couple of times and made it through the setup, and it didn't happen for a while. I installed WoW to have something to play and it seemed to install fine, besides taking forever with the "non-critical updates" but that's neither here nor there. After a couple days of playing, the screen went black again, but the computer was once again still running. It's now to the point that it does it when doing normal stuff, but especially when I try to open the GAME. Any help in simple terms would be fantastic.

I would tell you more specs but I can't get to them in time.

Dell Optiplex 270x
2gb ram
80gb hardrive
Windows XP

Sorry if in wrong section.By the looks of things I'd say your computer wasn't exactly built for gaming, but this wouldn't cause the monitor to blank out like this.
This doesn't particularly surprise me coming from Dell. I'm rarely coming across Dell USERS who are having a lot of luck. I run a small computer repair company from home, and the majority of PCs that come in are Dell. No shock there.

Besides the point. If your PC is new, I'd probably recommend getting it replaced on the warranty as it sounds like a fault with your (probably built in) GPU.
To quickly find out, can you tell me if the monitor is plugging in the same area as the mouse and keyboard, or is it PLUGGED into a separate card?

LukeHello,

The Dell GX270 systems are known to have issues with parts called capacitors on the motherboard, it cost Dell computer 330million to cover the replaced motherboards that were still under warranty.  Here is a link to an article that shows what capacitors are: http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php/capacitors/  Check your board if you have bulging capacitors then you need to go BACK where you purchased it and either get it exchanged or get your money back. When the capacitors start failing it can cause the system to not boot, lockup, give memory errors and have video problems.  Your board can be repaired by replacing the capacitors on the board but since you just got it they need to cover it for you.

Hello,
I own HP Pavilion dv6000 notebook and I've noticed recently that some keys on my keyboard stopped working.
I found  picture of the exact same keyboard via google and marked those keys. I just want to add that there was no water SPILLED on the keyboard  nor any other EXTERNAL influence. So I'm wondering what is the reason for this situation and if there are some possible solutions.
Thanks in advance.

[regaining space - attachment DELETED by admin]Possibly the ribbon cable joining the keyboard to the notebook's motherboard has got a crack or become damaged, or maybe some debris, food, etc has got in there. If the cable has become damaged you will need a NEW keyboard which costs around $30


Thanks for fast RESPONSE.

Intel Ivy-bridge Processors... Worth the wait?

I've been scavenging details about Intel's new line of processor for 2012. The idea of the same performance for less POWER or higher performance for the same power intrigued me. Namely the higher performance for the same power, as I would interpret this to also mean great performance for more power. So the Ivy-bridge with its tri-gate transistors & 22 nanometre design promise one heck of a performance boost.

Now this had me all geared up to wait it out... until I READ this:
http://www.tomshardware.com/news/Intel-Ivy-Bridge-LGA-1155-CPU-maho-bay,14012.html#xtor=RSS-181

So basically only up to a 4 core version is planned for spring, I have no idea of clock speeds or cache though. I hear about so many about laptops planned for this CPU and although there is a desktop model planned, it seems that this is a power saving idea rather than power delivering.

I realise that portable computing is the perceived future of computing but I think that the idea lacks vision and scope. Now a central computer for multiple users in a home controlled by tablet interfaces now we're talking... But enough of my rambling.
Quote from: Accessless on November 25, 2011, 03:08:19 AM

Intel Ivy-bridge Processors... Worth the wait?...

The longer you wait, the better they get.  With this reasoning, never get anything, because something is better right around the corner.

then I will loose interest

I loaded windows 7 onto a compaq presario v2000 that had shipped initially with windows xp.  The os LOADS fine and works well but I have no audio, and I keep getting the 'No MEDIA device found' when I hover the mouse over the volume icon which has a red x in it.  And the hp site says my computer only has drivers for win xp and win 2000.  But I remember when I had win 7 loaded on this computer before I had the audio working and ALSO a video driver installed and working properly.  Where do I find the drivers
Quote from: shashgo on NOVEMBER 25, 2011, 04:05:47 PM

...Where do I find the drivers

HI
   I'm puzzled by which hard drive this laptop needs. I was given this laptop but it CAME WITHOUT a hard drive. I checked the specs on the NEC website and it said 2.5 ATA-100 9.5mm. I bought one and it isnt even close to fitting. I even tried a SATA hard drive.  I'm stuck and WOULD really APPRECIATE any help. Many Thanks2.5'' laptop hard DRIVES look like this:


An IDE connector used with a converter.Thankyou for the reply. Much appreciated

Can anyone tell me how to find the information, (speed, CFM, direction, ETC.) of a 'stock'
CPU Fan so I can tell if a good DEAL will actually help if it's only running 50 to 60 CFM?  And it's running 1,800RPM....Try SpeedFan:
http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php

I'm not sure if it will tell you the direction the fan is spinning, but it will tell you everything else.Thanks.  That looks and seems great, EXCEPT, when I went to use it the program scanned my registry and found 86 ERRORS.  All windows related.  If I allow that I will probably loose my 7 because it's not 'Genuine'.
Firstly, i do not know what you downloaded but SpeedFan does not scan registry file, unless i'm mistaken, but i don't think it does.

Secondly, We do not help with illegal copy's of Windows. You need to but a legit copy.

Dear Computer experts,
                                    I have a PROBLEM. Whenever I boot my PC and i watch a movie or play a game the computer suddenly the computer SWITCHES in to Power Saving Mode (when I'm doing something too.) i can't get the screen back. PLEASE help me. you guys are really great and ive been helped by a lot of people in the past. pls help!!Which OS do you have?
The power saving mode makes sense for laptops on battery power. If you do not use the keyboard or mouse for a time, it goes into the power saving mode, even when the computer is really doing something. Kind of dumb, pun that is the way they made it.

So, either wiggle the mouse every ten minutes,
or turn off the power saving stuff.

The link below is for Vista and Windows 7.
http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/windows-vista/disable-power-management-on-windows-vista/
In Windows XP it is part of the screen saver settings.
Dear Geek,
               Thanks for the help man. But forget wiggling the mouse I am moving it around the mousepad frantically and clicking it like crazy (counter-strike, you know) and still it goes into idle mode. Thanks anyway. os = 7 Its a computer attached to the wire stuff, not a laptop with battery. BTW nice site you got there howtogeek  Also, the computer when the PC goes into idle when it is idle, it the screen comes back when i shake the mouse. The permanent problem happens only when im playing a game. anyways, i followed your instructions in the link. dyou think it will SOLVE my problem?

Put it to bed normally and when I started up it gets to hp logo and message at bottom left "Press the ESC Key for start up Menu"  Press ESC key goes to "ESC...Pause startup" and nothing else happens.  This is a HP dv5 laptop RUNNING vista.  Tried the F8 key at start up with no different results.  We are on vacation and do not have any backup DISKS.  Any ideas?ccand7,Welcome to the CH forums. What if anything was changed or OCCURRED (software/hardware/abnormal event) coincident to this issue arising?truenorth Since my post I have opened the back enough to see if anything was loose and blew out dust.  Still can not get it to RESPOND beyond the ESC message.  I guess the next thing is take it somewhere to have it looked at.My personal opinion would be to check the RAM first. Try removing the DIMM and reseating it again. Also, do you HEAR any beeps during startup?Took it to a local tech shop and he pulled the two memory chips out and reinserted them one a time and one was bad.  Didn't charge me anything.  So I bought a new 2 gig memory chip and we are back in business.  Thanks nickgr5 for the response.  Excellent news...Welcome Aboard !

Hi there folks;

I'm the semi-proud owner of the printer listed above.

 In attempting to print a photograph from Adobe Lightroom, three issues seem to recur;
1) the paper size resets itself to either Legal (8 1/2 x 11) or A3, no matter what I do, and;
2) no matter what sized prints I try to print, I either get large margins around the image, or the bottom 3mm or so of the print is cut off. That is to say, the print comes out the regular size, but the bottom of the print just isn't there. Even printing a 4x6 print in the middel of an 8x12 sheet of paper, I get a 4x6 print...with the bottom 3mm or so missing. I can see it on the scree, but it's not part of the print;
3) In setting the printer up for any particular print, I'll go into the printer settings to make sure that all is OK. When I hit the Print button, I get a little confirmation box which gives me the option to go into the printer settings again. When I do this, instead of being the same, they're DIFFERENT from what I just set, despite being an identical settings box.

In order to try to fix this, I have downloaded and installed the latest printer driver from the Epson website (v. 6.72)  cleared the CACHE of my computer; completely rebooted the system several times (including the printer); CHANGED the setting for the printer in both Lightroom and in the printer settings; completely uninstalled and then re-installed the printer and driver software, and attempted to re-size my images. All to no avail! The same problems keep happening!

I am RUNNING Windows Ultimate 64 bit. I have a PC with 16 G of RAM, with an Intel Core i7 PROCESSOR 3.2Ghz, and I'm trying to print from Adobe Lightroom v. 2.7. I've made sure that the printer driver is added through the COntrol Panel as well. I'm viewing this calamity on an EIZO Flexscan SX3031W, and the monitor itself is calibrated using the Spyder 3 Pro setup, however the colour is fine, this is just for addional info.

Any help would be appreciated. I've got clients awaiting their shots, and there's no way I can give them what's coming out of the printer at the moment.

Kind regards,

- Old HarleyAs a workaround, add a 4 mm white border just the bottom of the photo. Save it as a new file using the  native format to prevent loss of quality. Print the image with the 'fake' boarder on the bottom.
Later, find out what went wrong.Normally i would be inclined to believe the issue would be resolved by changing printer property parameters. However given my total lack of knowledge of the "Adobe Lightroom" software it is not beyond belief that the issue could be emanating from there. So here is a link to a site that contains a great deal of information on that software plus links to other tutorial sites.
http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshoplightroom/resources.html
Hope it helps,truenorthI'll give these notions a go. Thanks very much indeed!

 - Old harley

Can you load / put two DIFFERENT types of ram in your MOBO, As in DDR2 8GB 2x4GB PC2-6400 and 2 4GB of pny p5800 ram together. Someone told me it would only recognize the LOWER ram. My specs are listed on Comp specs only difference is I have 8 GB of DDR2 PC2-6400 ram installed. Thanks.http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Can_you_put_different_types_of_RAM_on_a_motherboard  truenorth Quote from: Mruniverce on November 28, 2011, 05:23:14 PM

Can you load / put two different types of ram in your mobo, As in DDR2 8GB 2x4GB PC2-6400 and 2 4GB of pny p5800 ram together. Someone told me it would only recognize the lower ram. My specs are listed on Comp specs only difference is I have 8 GB of DDR2 PC2-6400 ram installed. Thanks.

My Dell Insprion will not start sometimes. When I push the power button it tries to start and the fans will try to turn. I can get it to start by TURNING the power strip off and holding the power button on the computer until it GLOWS orange then turning the power strip back on. I have replaced the CMOS battery, I have run the Dell Diagnostics and the motherboard and components checked OK. I have removed and replaced the memory, video card, keyboard, mouse, fans and drives. When I reinstalled each peice one by one the computer would start, but SLOWER each time. I have not tested the power supply yet.Borrow a known good PSU of the same or greater wattage and swap it in there overnite...I had the power supply checked and it is good. Now everytime I shut the power off the CMOS resrets itself.1 of 3 things:
1.  Power Supply is no good.
2.  CMOS battery is no good.
3.  Motherboard is no good.Does anyone KNOW where to get a motherboard cheap to replace a dell insprion 530?Owner's MANUAL
See p. 85

Dell™ Inspiron™ 530 Series Owner's Manual - Specifications

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/inspd530/en/index.htm

Is this because it has only 27.3 of 298Gb free space?
Image attached.
Thanks,
Mike

[regaining space - attachment deleted by admin]Yes, the bar turns red when free space is less than 10% (29.8 GB in this case)
Howto remove the color bar

• Run REGEDIT as administrator
• Open HKLM\Software\Classes\Drive
• Locate the key TileInfo. Remove the phrase "System.PercentFull;"
• Restart Windows
• Re-open Computer to see the absence of the red bar

I didn't see the OP asking how to remove the warning colour ("color") change; only what it meant. Kimsland, improper registry editing can cause all kinds of troubles, not just failure to start.

I'll stick to the specific questions from now on though

Hi ,

My name is KYLE and I'm 16 and have a Dell Inspiron 1545 Laptop that was bought roughly two years ago at Christmas time by my parents.  The laptop itself seems to be in pretty good condition, although a few months ago I had to replace the hard drive.  It runs on Windows 7, BIOS version A11, and has roughly 150 GB of free disk space.  I do not pay for security programs, although I do use Microsoft Security Essentials and Advanced SystemCare 4 to keep it running smoothly.

The problem I'm having is that the laptop battery is not charging.  I have the AC adapter plugged in and the battery is in place but the battery icon on my laptop says "Plugged in, not charging."  The power level is at 0% because I drained the battery to see if it would fix the issue but it did not.  I have tried various methods found on MULTIPLE websites to fix this issue, but most of those methods were specifically geared for issues involving Windows Vista and did not fix my problem anyway.  Some of these methods include reseating the battery and adapter in numerous progressions along with shutting down and rebooting the laptop as well as disabling the Microsoft ACPI-Compliant Control Method Battery driver in my Device Manager and re-enabling it.  As I have said, none of these methods worked.  The adapter itself works because I have tried running my laptop solely on AC power with the battery not attached and it runs fine, and it also shows the WHITE power light which indicates that the AC adapter is supplying power to the laptop.  But when the battery is attached and the adapter is not, as a result of the 0% of power in the battery, the laptop either shuts down if it is on or will not turn on if it is off.  I normally had the adapter plugged in along with the battery and rarely moved my laptop from my desk except to my bed which is only a few feet away within these past two years.  When I boot my laptop an error message indicates that it does not detect an AC adapter with sufficient wattage for the battery and prompts me to try reseating the adapter, find one with sufficient wattage, run system diagnostics, or enter system setup.  I have run system diagnostics and NOTHING abnormal was detected.  I also tried looked into system setup with both the adapter and battery attached and under the battery section it specifies that the battery is idle and there is no AC adapter detected, although without the adapter connected the laptop would shut off.

Is there any way I can fix this issue without buying new hardware?  Perhaps something I'm missing that has to do with the connection of the adapter and battery or dealing with software?  Or, if it is a hardware issue, is it my battery?  My adapter?  Or as I've read, could it be the motherboard?  Any help figuring out what the problem is and how to fix it would be greatly appreciated.  As I've said, I usually have the adapter plugged in anyway, but it is would be nice to have my laptop in a condition where there are no major issues I have to WORRY about.  Unfortunately the laptop is no longer covered under warranty as I only had a one year warranty which expired last year.

Thanks in advance for any help,
Kyle Excellent writeup for anyone, especially a 16 year old.  You get an "A".
The battery is bad & they are quite expensive.  Because Dells are so common, you can probably get a replacement battery from a local retailer.  If it doesn't work, return it.

Just Googled it for you.  Battery price is not that bad, $35 + 4 shipping
http://www.batteryedge.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=DL1525&gclid=CIeh_KSd2awCFYtR7AodbwFjrw

I like Apex Battery, I've used them before, $40 w/free shipping
http://www.apexbattery.com/dell-inspiron-1545-6-cell-li-ion-laptop-battery--dell-1525-6.html

I use cox high SPEED ISP. I have win7.

How can my friend hook his laptop to my computer or directly to Cox, the ISP?

( Similar to his entering a SPECIAL code at a coffee shop)What is it exactly you are trying to accomplish here? Is it to access the internet on the laptop via YOUR isp connection? Is it to share files between the 2 computers? truenorth Quote from: truenorth on November 29, 2011, 08:02:37 AM

What is it exactly you are trying to accomplish here? Is it to access the internet on the laptop via YOUR isp connection? Is it to share files between the 2 computers? truenorth

He can either hook up his laptop to your router/modem...or he can logon to your wireless network if in fact you have a wireless router and his laptop has wireless capability...
You're choice.

1.=Yes
2.=If it has a built in wifi card then no  if there is no built in wifi then a wireless adapter can achieve the same.
3.=No
truenorth

have connection as secure as possiple.
May I simply disconnet my computer from the  isp connection and allow my friends to plug in and use the connection
for an hour or so each year? Not a full time setup for each friend.

• Security
• Network Load Balancing

So, you knew this already?

i have a COMPUTER that doesn't have any markings on the outside except intel celeron.there is nothing anywhere on the casing itself,top,bottom either side inside and out.the only markings i can FIND is the word transcend on the MOTHER board and underneath that TS-AVE3.on the main cable going from the mother board to the hard drive it says www.transcendusa.com and it will do nothing.without it starting up is there ANYWAY to find out the make to order recovery cds?When you turn on the computer, what messages do you see?
Where did you find the computer?
Does it boot from a floppy? Can if boot from a CD?
The chipset for that board is the "VIA Pro133A" Here is a link for the XP drivers http://www.viaarena.com/Driver/VIA_4in1_443v.zip

The motherboard itself appears to be made specifically for a company, rather than a manufactured board for the general public.

This is a Google Reader link for the PDF manual. I am giving you this link as it requred no PDF software to read it.
http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=cache:czOjUb-U8QYJ:www.elhvb.com/mobokive/archive/Transcend/manual/ts-ave3/e-ave3.2.1.pdf+TS-AVE3&hl=en&gl=nz&pid=bl&srcid=ADGEESj7j68HkcLRoKAKH1gkGejWRpICNgcWa1wxIzc3UvN2h020rTe7qXmPiY1gRJAbOUqDujdaiWebfACY2nMSq9du2lKkUcipJn14dLDbVRerc0zoEGnv-_OwRht6U5nMuwvKHmgq&sig=AHIEtbS7Rr2pYBQS-MrmCdsjHfM4IwnHYg&pli=1

As I have not been able to find a "recovery cd" as such, you will need to locate an installation CD for the version of windows that is on the machine. Given its age im going to guess Windows XP Home.

Otherwise if you cannot locate and reinstall windows on the machine you could always try a Linux distrobution such as Ubuntu.

I would like to know if it is possible to install a USB3  PCi-E card on this board?
I run WINDOWS 7 X64 with I7 920 Intel processor.
Thanks in advance
JCYes...
Just did ONE for a client yesterday...QUICK and painless.
Make sure the card has the appropiate drivers for the OS.Thank you very much.  :-)
Anytime...Welcome Aboard...

My computer came with an NVIDIA GeForce 8400 GS (Yeah, I know it ain't that great, but I couldn't afford anything more when I ordered it, and I figured I'd upgrade later).  Anyway, my video card is SUPPOSED to have 256mb of ram, but when I ran the "Can you run it" FUNCTION on the website www.gamespot.com (a small PROGRAM that ANALYZES your system to determine if your computer can run whatever game you're looking at), it said that I have 512mb of video ram.  Apparently, the GeForce 8400 is available in a 512mb variant, but that wasn't what I had, as far as I know.  So, short story long, is there any way to definitively tell what the specs are of the card I have installed?  When I view it through the device manager it just tells me its the GeForce 8400 GS, but nothing else.   Thanks!This is most likely a technology called TurboCache, whereby the graphics card has its own VRAM, and borrows system RAM too so it has more RAM available.  So you could have got the 256Mb variant, and maybe it is borrowing 256Mb of system RAM too.
GPU-Z should help you out with the exact specs.
Hope this helps.

I would like to know about electricity (POWER) consumption by PC CPU and monitor separately in a HOUR and watts REQUIRED by both the equiptentsThis may help ANSWER your question. Go--->Herekamlesh, are you using a CRT monitor or LCD monitor?  The difference in power consumption is SIGNIFICANT.  LCDs consume less energy than CRTs.

My Dvd/cd-rw DRIVE was working perfectly fine a few days ago...then one day i found out one of my game disc was so scratched i couldn't play it.  I kept popping it in and the computer wouldn't detect the cd.  I didn't think it was the drive until I popped in another BLANK cd and even that wouldn't work.  Everything seems fine,  the cd spins (although it's slower then normal), and device manager says its working fine.  When I double click the drive, it doesn't say "Please insert a Cd" or something like that but it opens and it's blank.  I checked the properties everytime i put a cd in and the space was always zero.  I have also uninstalled and reinstalled the driver for it.  Its a Phillips CDRW/DVD CDD5263.  Any help would be appreciatedwhat HAPPENS when you go into my computer and use explore disc. Does it give any indication of a disc in the drive? Does the light stay on continuous when you PLACE a disc in the drive.try cleaning your lens with a cd cleaner.*UPDATE*  my drive will now read dvds and cd roms but it won't read blank ones.  Whenever i put one in, my computer makes lots of noises and nothing happens.  If I click the drive in My Computer, it freezes up.  I agree with kuszmania9999, the first thing you should try is a lens cleanerI tried one just a few seconds ago and it still doesnt work Quote from: fatjokes_jordan on December 03, 2007, 08:49:56 AM

*UPDATE*  my drive will now read dvds and cd roms but it won't read blank ones.  Whenever i put one in, my computer makes lots of noises and nothing happens.  If I click the drive in My Computer, it freezes up. 

3. Go to Device Manager, click a "+" sign next to IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers.
You'll see two items:
- ATA Channel0
- ATA Channel1
Right click on each of them, and click Uninstal. Confirm.
Restart Windows. They'll be automatically reinstalled.

Primary IDE channel, Secondary IDE channel

OK. I have an older computer. AMD K6-2 on an MVP3G-M mobo. Award Modular BIOS 4.51PG.

I originally had fairly small HDs. 8GB, 2GB, etc. Then I bought a 80GB whopper. I had a feeling I'd have a problem with this one. I did, froze at boot. read the instruction MANUAL. Oh, a Cylinder Reduction Jumper. How thoughtful. Alright, so I use that, and can use this WD caviar 80GB as a 32.7Gig Drive. So I figure, alright, any other drive I get, I'll need to format for that. So for my next few purchases I get more WD Caviar 80GB drives. Then, I go to the store again, and *GASP*! they don't have any 80GB drives! and I need one (all the others have important data). So I figure I'm wasting money by getting the 160GB caviar that I find. I put it in, with the Cylinder Reduction Jumper, Open Disk Management, (WinXP).To create the partitions, And emit a confused "*censored*" when I see the size of the drive. 149.05 GB. Exactly the amount it CAN be.


I'll admit this is a good thing. What I want to know is why the heck I can't use a 80GB drives full capacity but a 160GB drive shows up fine. And also, how the heck am I breaking two barriers of my BIOS? I have no Disk Drive Overlay program installed, and my BIOS is supposedly limited to the 30-something Gig limit described previously.

Any insights appreciated. oh! heres a more detailed system setup:


AMD K6-2 350Mhz 512MB RAM
OS: Windows XP PROFESSIONAL SP2
IDE: Primary Master WDC WD800JB-00JJC0 (80GB RECOGNIZED as 32.7GB)
        Primary Slave:  WDC WD1600AAJB-22PVAO (super-sized drive. 149.05GB

Secondary: Samsung WriteMaster DVD burner


Also, heres a chonology starting with my first run-in with the limitation.

the first drive I got I set up to replace my third Hard Disk, E:. I burned the contents to a DVD, REPLACED it, and was greeted with a hang at the BIOS detection phase.
only slightly undeterred now, I consult the manual (when all else fails.....) and learn of the Cylinder Reduction Jumper. So I implement it, and the drive is recognized. I boot into XP, run diskmgmt.msc, and format my new HD as the 32GB size it now exposes to the BIOS. All goes well for a short while. them problems arise. the drive powers off for no reason, XP PANICS totally, since the swap file was there, complains about failed writes, makes a new Pagefile on C:, all my programs crash (since they no longer exist per-se, no swap file....), and explorer restarts. E: drive has VANISHED. according to eventvwr, the drive was removed without being properly prepared for removal. huh. my DVD drive dissapears too when this stuff happens, so I suspect a faulty IDE ribbon CABLE. I replace it. still problems. I begin to recall my experience with power supplies. so I swap around the power cables. seems to go well. Then the problem re-appears.

Long story short, I eventually buy my 160GB drive to replace my current C: drive. expecting another 32GB drive. to my amazement, when I install it, it is recognized properly! as 149.05GB. The rest of the story of my copying data to the drive has catches but they are not relevant to this topic and I will omit them for brevity.


Anyway, I think I have posted enough information to get a few expert opinions on this anomaly. Thanks for any reply.

A couple days ago I noticed while in coral wordperfect that my keyboard wasn't responding correctly. It was acting as if the ctrl key was pressed down. IE: I'd press the 'g' key and suddenly the 'go to' box would pop up, 'f' key would bring up the 'find and replace' box ect ect. As well as the insert key wasn't working. Thinking that maybe it was just being finicky I closed it and then opened up my documents and then brought up the sub folder that contains my writing and for some reason it came up in a new window (I checked folder options, and it should all be in one window instead of multiple ones.) After I opened up a new word document and then minimized it to the tray I couldn't bring it back up, instead of getting the restore thing when I right-clicked on it, it brought up the list with the CASCADE option.

I checked to make sure my keyboard was the correct one, reinstalled the driver, no good. I'm getting a little nervous because it has all my writing on it, I'm sure I can save it but I'm one of those technologically incompetant sorts and if it's broken I don't want to touch it and make it worse!

Um, I don't really know a lot about my computer. It's running windows XP, the keyboard is one of those economic carpal tunnel jobs made by microsoft.  Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, I live in a small town and the nearest computer store is god only knows how many miles away so I'm going to have to try to fix it myself!

Oh oh, I should also mention that I tried another new keyboard instead of my current one but the problem persisted... Which I GUESS could mean it's not just the keyboard, thus making this thread titled inappropriately. I also don't know if it's in the right forum... I'm such an incompetant.hmmm, this other keyboard that you tried, did it work correctly as well, before this incident?It did, I tried it with the new computer and worked a-okay!Those two keyboards are USB, or PS2?One is USB the one one that I've been using (the economical nonsense one) is I guess PS2, it's got a litte round purple end that goes into the round purple socket. it may be a virus. you may wish to do a system scan for viruses and for SPYWARE. from what you are telling us, it does not seem to be a hardware problem. may be right.
What security TOOLS do you use? What Windows version?It's Windows XP. I don't have any virus program right now (mostly because it's not hooked up to the internet.  ) I wasn't aware you could get a virus if you don't have the internet hooked up. you dont have internet on that machine? has it ever been exposed to the internet? have files downloaded from the internet been installed or copied to this computer?It's not exposed to internet, and I do sometimes transfer files from my laptop but I always virus and spyware scan first... mostly because I was trying to avoid this mess! XDhmm that is very odd then. i recommend trying a system restore then, see if that solves the issue.Couple questions.... 1) How do I do a system restore? and 2) Will it cause me to lose any of my writing? I know, dumb questions!  I just need to be certain! Quote

Will it cause me to lose any of my writing?