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Hi.

I have an external hard DRIVE I used with my PC and would like to erase it and format it to USE with my MAC.  Is this possible and if so, how can it be done?

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!!

Thank you and have a fabulous day!!I'm not responsible for this answer, but I just asked my Mac friend, and this is what he said:

If your drive is FORMATTED as FAT32 (DRIVES 32GB, or less), it should be readable by Mac.
If you have NTFS partitioned drive, you'll have to erase it in Mac before you can format it.

Yesterday all the parts I've ordered arrived finally.
After building all components together everything worked nicely. I've installed all PROGRAMS needed and went to bed.
Today morning, when trying to boot the computer, nothing appears on my screen.

I checked all cables, tried no GPU, second PCIe slot, no RAM, 1 RAM stick, second RAM slot(s), CLEARING CMOS through the "clear" button on the mobo, taking out battery for 1h and now it seems that the LCD POSTER stops at "INIT ROM" and that's it.

I hope you can help me with that problem


Powersupply: Coolermaster 620W Real Power PRO M620 Powersupply
Intel Motherboard: Asus Commando Socket 775 P965 DDR2 3X PCI-E Vista Ready Motherboard
Intel CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo E6550 2.33GHz Socket 775 CPU - Retail
PC Memory: Patriot 2GB (2 x 1GB) 800Mhz 5-5-5-12 EXTREME Performance Memory
Desktop Hard Drive: Western Digital 74GB SATA RAPTOR Hard Disk Drive
Graphics Card: XFX 8800GTS 320MB, PCI-E Graphics Card
Operating System: Microsoft Windows XP Home OEM Inc Service Pack 2
TFT Monitors: Samsung SM-2032BW Pebble 20" Widescreen TFT Monitor

how COULD i reset BIOS  password for IBM think PAD laptop Laptop passwords are not DESIGNED to be bypassed or COMPROMISED....contact IBM and get your wallet out.

hi I have a hp printer.My young DAUGTHER TRIES to print everything she sees.can anyone tell me how to command the printer to stop a job.thanx.Select Start > Settings > Printers and Faxes

Double click your printer

Highlight the print job you wish to cancel

Select DOCUMENT > Cancel

I recently purchased a new hard drive as my old one ran out of space.  I installed the newbie and Norton GHOSTED all the files from my old one onto the new larger one.  I really have no use for the old one, except as a backup, and I was wondering how do I change the new hard drive's letter (E) to make a new (C) drive so I can take out the old Hard Drive.  I've tinkered with Disk Management but it wont let me change the current (C) drive (my old hard drive).  So my question is how do I make the new hard drive become a (C) Windows drive so I can remove my old hard drive completely and just use the new one from now on?You didn't specify your o/s but what should work is to PHYSICALLY remove all the hd's from the computer (unplug it first!) and then attach the new hd to the last [s/be black] plug on the ribbon cable after checking that it is configured as a 'master' -  plug computer back in and fire up - as it fires up open the bios and, depending on your o/s either check that the new drive is showing correctly or have the system 'auto detect' it.
After that is done and working, if you want to keep the old drive as well you can re-configure it as a 'slave' and install it on the middle [s/be grey] plug on the ribbon cable.The new drive will need to be empty to do this...so move your Ghost image or burn it to CD/DVD.

Then Travel Here  for instructions.Sorry I wasn't specific...I have Windows XP SP2.  My original hard drive is an IDE Seagate 40G unit that has no more space available.  My new hard drive is a SATA Samsung 160G unit.  Therefore I dont have to worry about jumpers (phew).  My goal is to transfer all the data off the 40G HDD to the 160G HDD and then remove the 40G and use the 160G HDD as my C: drive.  The problem is after I ghosted all the data over including the master boot record, removed the 40G HDD and restarted the computer it would not advance past the welcome screen.  I assumed that this was because my new 160G HDD was named E drive...not C drive and therefore windows didnt know what to do.  I reattached the old HDD and it boots up fine but the problem remains...How do I make the new SATA 160G HDD the C drive? What do I need to do to make the 160G HDD capable of running my computer?  Thanks guys..I THINK the problem essentially boils down to the fact that the new HDD is SATA whereas the old one is IDE.  When I remove the old HDD then there is no master drive for the computer, so it doesnt know where to load from.  Can someone please tell me how to change the designation of SATA drive and make it the drive that windows loads from.  Thanks...Wipe the info from the Seagate.
Travel to their site and DLoad the Seatools package (Free )
Use the tools to create a bootable CD.
Boot to the CD and select the "clone" option to clone the 40G to the Seagate.
When finished remove the CD and power down.
Disconnect the 40G from the system.
Voila re-boot and you should be good to go.
thanks for the advice...I checked out the Seatools thing, but in the end I didn't need it.  My problem was due to the fact that I formatted the SATA HDD using the disk manage option on Windows.  The problem being that I gave the HDD a drive letter.  I have since found that Norton Ghost can COPY EVERYTHING I need and format the drive into what I want.  So after two days of fiddling I finally achieved what I wanted and it only takes Ghost 22 minutes.  You dont need a boot CD or the Windows CD, I would thoroughly recommened Ghost just for the simplicity.  Thanks again everyone.  After you finish installing all your apps and protection programs and everything is as you want make sure to create a brand new Ghost image as there is new hardware involved.

I have a mid size tower that my son built for me back in 1999 and in 2000 he passed away.
 Now my computer is getting old and needs to be upgraded, but I don't want to get rid of it .
 So the QUESTION is can I keep the case and replace the rest of the parts.
 I was going to add more ram and realized that adding ram was not going to help a SYSTEM that is that old.I'm sorry to HEAR about your son.

If you want to keep the case, you probably can, provided you can find a power supply that can fix inside it PROPERLY. Power connectors for motherboards from then to now have changed. Also, you need to make sure you get a motherboard that fits in the case as WELL.

So, I'm on my third dell laptop charger for my new INSPIRON laptop that I bought last year and I've already blown 2 chargers. Is this something that happens to them over time? I always have my laptop on and plugged in to the adapter. Should I put it on standby/hibernate/shutdown and unplug the adapter at night to prolong the life? When I plug in the BROKEN ones I hear a beeping sound. Is there anyway to revive theses? Please help so I don't have to go buy a 4th charger!

Thank you so much!

- AndrewAnything helps. EVEN if you think it's off the wall!!! I will take anything at this point!Were these Dell replacement chargers or generics ? ?The first charger came with the laptop and the second one I just bought offline but It looks identical to my first one. Both Dell brand.eBay or new ? ?

How old is the battery ? ?Both chargers were Brand New as is the battery, well, new when I got it last september...I WOULD suggest checking out the Dell Forums...if this is a common problem with your MODEL laptop you may have some recourse with the manuf...John here, support analyst at Dell headquarters.

If any of you have any input you'd like to give to our product designers about how you use your AC adapters, a survey is now being conducted:

http://direct2dell.com/one2one/archive/2007/11/29/36860.aspx

There is no "common problem" relating to AC adapters on any notebook, as with few exceptions, all Dell notebooks use the same AC adapters, and have for several years.

To the OP, feel free to contact me here, or at our group mailbox:

[email protected]
'ATTN:John'Thanks for stopping by John!    Nice to see a real Dell person here.

What do you think about this one?

<---------------------------


GX1
Moderator
Very classy!

I am very NEW at this . My computer has LISTED a DVD/CD-RW Driver CD Drive. Is this a DVD buner? SorryFrom the sound of it, no. A drive described as a DVD/CD-RW drive (or combo drive) can usually only read DVDs, not write to them. It can, HOWEVER, read and write CDs.Give us brand, and model, and we'll try to FIND out.Burns CD's
Reads DVD's
Reads CD's.

I have a Dell Dimension 8200.  It has a Windows XP with SP2 Operating SYSTEM.  I have encountered a problem with it.  On three separate occasions, when I boot up the computer, the first thing I notice is that there is no sound.  Then I am unable to access the internet.  When I check the Device Manager, it is completely empty.  No devices are listed what-so-ever.  I took the computer to "The Geek Squad".  First they told me I needed a new mother board, then I was told I needed a new processor.  When all of that was done they called me and told me the problem with no devices being listed in the Device Manager occurred again.  A day later they called and said the computer was fixed and I picked it up and it worked fine until today.  I then had the same exact problem occur again!!!  When I booted up the computer first there was no sound and then I could not access the internet and when I checked in Device Manager, it was empty.  Can you help me.  Frustrated and broke!!!!You may try this solution, first:
http://support.microsoft.com/default.aspx?scid=kb;en-us;311504

If that doesn't work, try this:

1. Go to START>Run, and enter: regedit. Click OK.
Go File>Export, and save your registry to know location.
2. Maximize the "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE" WINDOW.
3. Scroll down to "SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Enum"
4. With "Enum" selected click the "Security", "Permissions" menu.

Note: At this point you will probably notice there are no permissions on this key.

5. Click "Add".
6. Add the group "Everyone" and the user "SYSTEM".
7. Select "Everyone" and check "Read" ONLY!
8. Select "SYSTEM" and check "Full Control".
9. Click the "Advanced" button at the bottom of the window.
10. On the Advanced window check "Reset permissions on all child objects..."
11. Click "OK"
12. On the warning window click "Yes"
13. Close regedit

Restart computer

Hi all, it's my first post on this forum.

I just bought a new video card, a Peak ATI Radeon X1950 PRO (Pci), Together with a 2gb DDR2 RAM Bank. 
First i tried to install the RAM, but i noticed that the "attachment" is not compatible with my motherboard. Maybe it's a new standard, but this new RAM bank has that little tiny "hole" right in the middle of it, while my already attached RAM has that little "hole" a little to the left. Thus, this RAM cannot physically be attached. All right, i inserted again my old RAM, and proceeded with the video card installation.
I removed my previous video card (an ATI X800) and inserted the new one.
However, my motherboard (an ASUS P5RD1-V) did not give any beep (usually, 1-beep = no problems) and the screen remained black. I tried to remove the video card and the RAM and i re-inserted them, but now my motherboard gives out a single beep (like always did, no problem here) and after a few seconds another one, short as the first one.
The screen remains pitch black.
I tried to re-insert the old video card and all goes well.

I tried to explain my problem to the BEST of my abilities, i hope it was clear enough for i am not an expert.

Can someone help me? It was my christmas present and i would like to make it work, if possible.

Thanks in advance

-MarcoAre you sure the motherboard model you listed is correct? ACCORDING to the website, that model accepts DDR2 RAM.

Also, that motherboard only has PCI Express, so your X800 was the PCI Express model and not the AGP model, is that correct?i re-checked and my motherboard is indeed a P5RD1-VM. Dont know why my manual tells me P5RD1-V. Anyway i'm an idiot, i realized that my motherboard does not allow ddr2 ram. Oh well, my fault really.

Yeah, the X800 is a PCI, at least i'm sure my motherboard supports that.

I think i realized the problem THOUGH. I saw that my X1950 needs a second power supply, but i do not know how to.P5RD1-VM is actually from the same family as P5RD1-V, there are minor differences between the two, but overall they have the same specs.

The P5RD1-V and VM are almost the same, except for a few things.

Quote from: P5RD1-V

-Intel LGA775 Pentium 4 CPU
- ATI RADEON XPRESS 200 Northbridge
- Dual-Channel DDR400/333
- High Definition Audio
- Serial ATA RAID
- AI NOS
- AI NET2

- Intel LGA775 Pentium 4 CPU
- ATI RADEON XPRESS 200 Northbridge
- PCI Express Architecture
- Serial ATA RAID
- ASUS CrashFree BIOS2

2 x 184-pin DIMM SOCKETS support max. 2 GB DDR 400/333 non-ECC memory

Hi,
Problem with Internet - is this the right section?? It's not the browser..anyways
A message comes up SAYING: 'A NETWORK cable is unplugged' - it's not.
Then comes up with a Local Area Connection message about the connection having limited or no connectivity. On LAN status IP and some other address turn to saying something like '0.00.00' and that the network didn't assign a network address to my computer, trying Windows Repair to get re-newed IP address says it can't do it and 'if this doesn't work then it may be a problem with your network'. We have no LAN network, ISP is VIRGIN Media, 2meg broadband.
It connects BACK up within a minute but then disconnects again a couple of minutes later.
Edit: i guess this goes in NETWORKS...do posts get moved here or can i repost? Or can anyone help at all??Try some steps from here:
http://compnetworking.about.com/od/windowsnetworking/f/cableunplugged.htm

What does the A08 FLASH BIOS UPGRADE do for a dell dimension 4100 COMPUTER?

I have a compaq presario with windows xp. When I power on my computer INITIALLY in the morning it doesn't startup/nothing shows on my screen. I need to let it then run for awhile and then shut it down a few times and eventually it will start up and run fine. I don't know a TON about computers but any advice would help. It runs fine once it finally STARTS up but I don't want to leave it running 24/7 365...please help
thanksI'd suggest to borrow a known working power supply of the same or greater wattage and swapping it in there to eliminate it as the main culprit...do you just mean to try another outlet?I moved it to a different room in the HOUSE to see if it would help and I tried a power strip and it is still doing it..any other suggestions?thanksNo.
The power supply is the silver box normally at the top of the case that the power cord that plugs in to the wall leads to...
Do you know anyone that works on computers in your area ? ?
As things can and will go wrong maybe they could show you the steps involved in changing the power supply.
Ask around and let US know.

I have just reassembled my computer (2year old PC RUNNING windows xp) on a new desk and now I cannot get past the log on page as the mouse and key board will not work.
(MICROSOFT wireless optical desktop receiver 3.0A; mouse 2.0A & keyboard 1.0A)
2 weird things!
1)the gear works fine on my laptop &
2)if I hit 'delete' on start up it will get me into setup mode.
Don't have a clue where to go from there.
I have searched high and low and cannot find the original instructions. (All else has failed) or a CD.
Any help greatly appreciated.
                                             Thanks Jazman.What is the exact model of the set? You most likely need to download the drivers.Thanks for the reply. The model of the set is as stated.
I have looked for a downloadable manual on the net without success, though the model comes up often enough for sale.
Problem is very 'catch 22' as I cannot get past the log on page on start up , other than hitting 'delete' and going into setup. If it was drivers, why are they not there now when they were before (1 day before) and how do I get them into the computer when it wont work at all?
I assume the necessary drivers are on my laptop which I am using now. I have a flash-drive. Is there any way of saving them to it and getting them into my desktop via the setup pages?; or am I best to just take the whole kit and CABOODLE to a repair shop?
Has anyone else ever had this problem and how did you resolve it?
                                 Cheers   Jazman.Microsoft sets have a model number (ex. Microsoft Wireless Desktop 1000). It can be found on the bottom of the keyboard or mouse (see pictures). They usually recommend you install the drivers before plugging the keyboard and mouse in, which means you'll need another keyboard and mouse to use to do this.

This page contains drivers for Microsoft keyboards/mouse sets:
http://www.microsoft.com/hardware/mouseandkeyboard/Download.mspx

Alternatively, you may also download the individual drivers for each from the same page. Select Mouse, Keyboard, or Desktop Set from the "Select type of product" menu.

You could copy them to a flash drive, but you'll need at least a working mouse to install them.

[saving SPACE - attachment deleted by admin]Thanks heaps for that
                               Cheers   Jazman.

ok  here's what i'm working with
Abit Ib9 mobo
c2d 6300/oc to 2.60 now  (looking for more)
PNY 8800 gts 640mb
(1) wd raptor  150g (10k)
(1) hitachi 250 g  (7200)
1 gig CORSAIR  xms2-6400  (5-5-5-12)
Tiger Pro 500w psu
 Looking to do some more  ANY IDEAS will be  helpful   thanks
by the way this is my 1st  build an extra gig of RAM. most gaming rigs nowadays have at least 2gigs.How is he going to find the exact same MEMORY he has and dual-channel it? Very poor advice.

OP: This the answer to your problems:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820220144

With this, your memory performance will be much higher, and you'll be able to overclock the E6300 up to 3.5Ghz. And it's only 39$!yep Jess  the egg is backordered on them  same with the buffalo firestixI would wait for those. They are Micron D9.

Second BEST:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820146673

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820609026Hey thanks jess  i'll keep posting  i wanna see how far i can push it haha ordered some crucail  i'll see how it does  but if  i don't like it i'll  try yours for sureJust wait til January...why January? Quote from: patio on November 27, 2007, 05:18:17 PM

Just wait til January...

ok do you  know where i might be able to find some info on it  i don't have anything just trying to figure it out on my own  any and all help  is   useful  thank alot

its says "No Disk in Drive D:"

i just installed the HR-03 Plus on my 8800 ultra. works GREAT! i managed to overclock it to 660Mhz core and 2.364 Ghz memory without any artifacting . it idles at ~56C and under load it gets to ~74C. before the aftermarket cooler, and before the overclocking, it idled at about  74C lol. all in all, a great cooler, however it does take some patience to get the RAM sinks to stay.

an added note, the 8800 ultra, if not hooked up to supplementary POWER, wails like a banshee. i nearly had a heart attack. Has this forum become your personal blog?

I don't support your choice to buy an 8800 Ultra, but I will say that the best fan to buy is the SCYTHE S-FLEX 120mm 1600RPM model.

With the right duct, I got an 8800 Ultra, up to 725Mhz, on a friend's computer. Quote from: Jess607 on November 27, 2007, 01:29:08 AM

Has this forum become your personal blog?

With the right duct, I got an 8800 Ultra, up to 725Mhz, on a friend's computer.

i had some good information so i decided to share it.

do you have pics? i actually would really like to see how you did that.

I'll be doing the same things for my 8800 GTS (G92-based 128SP) SLi when I get my new PC, and I'll probably be making a walkthrough for some of the mods I'll be performing. Be sure to check that out when it's out.

Quote

I'll be doing the same things for my 8800 GTS (G92-based 128SP) SLi when I get my new PC, and I'll probably be making a walkthrough for some of the mods I'll be performing. Be sure to check that out when it's out.

Isn't this just you wanting to share your experiences  ? ?

 

Quote

I'll be doing the same things for my 8800 GTS (G92-based 128SP) SLi when I get my new PC, and I'll probably be making a walkthrough for some of the mods I'll be performing. Be sure to check that out when it's out.

Isn't this just you wanting to share your experiences  ? ?

 

Quote from: patio on November 28, 2007, 08:12:16 AM

Quote

I'll be doing the same things for my 8800 GTS (G92-based 128SP) SLi when I get my new PC, and I'll probably be making a walkthrough for some of the mods I'll be performing. Be sure to check that out when it's out.

Isn't this just you wanting to share your experiences  ? ?

 

 

Please, homer.. it's hard enough to take you seriously as it is, with that whole religious idiocy.

Quote from: Jess607 on November 29, 2007, 02:43:13 AM

Please, homer.. it's hard enough to take you seriously as it is, with that whole religious idiocy.

i find it surprising that you take me seriously at all.

Jess, your postings are on the edge of what will be tolerated. Please cool down and think before you press the post button. You are really showing what kind of person you are. I guess you think it's not apparent, but guess what? It is. 

GX1
Moderator

No attempt by me is necessary. You prove the point well. 

a guy asked me a valid question tonight about HIGH def monitors.  Do you need a HD-compatible video card to reap the benefits of a HD MONITOR?  You know in the same way you need high definition CABLE and HDMI to get it on your TV?Yes. You need a card that supports it and has a connection to OUTPUT to it.

Over the past few months, I've had my SHARE of minor computer problems, but none this annoying. From time to time, often when I am writing something in Microsoft Word or when I am surfing the INTERNET, my Monitor (a 23 inch ViewSonic Flat SCREEN) will crash, producing a blue box that says 'No Signal'. When I manually reboot the machine, it works fine, that is until the next crash. This is very irritating.

I've done some research, and it appears that some people have SIMILAR problems, but none identical to my own. Other people seem to have the No Signal error all of the time, MINE appears at random.

Could it be a hardware issue? A faulty motherboard or Graphics card?


Thanks.try a different monitor on your comp, see if it does the same thing.Will do.

I bought an ATI TV Wonder 650 Combo PCI Express to watch TV (it is in the 8x PCIe slot becaseu it does not fit itn the 1x, yes Windows does see it). The catalyst Media Center Cannot find any channels when it does a channel search. The only channels it finds are 37541 and 75982 which, I believe, are not part of my 80 channel package. I have tried the cable in both analog and digital ports and their settings but still nothing. I know I’m getting cable because my roommate (I’m at college in a dorm) gets it on his TV and his computer, but he does not use cable on both at the same TIME. I have a three-way splitter with two cables coming out of it, one for me and the other form him.

I have asked they cable people here on CAMPUS and they said I should try a manual setting but I do not know how. I would LIKE to know if the tuner is NTSC analog (system-M), and QAM-256 digital because they said to make SURE it was. In addition, they mentioned something about a A+D (I think analog and digital) and a F port. I do not know what they are.

I have not heard back from ATI about this either.

PC specs:
Core 2 Duo E6600 3.2 GHz
EVGA GeForce 8800 GTS 640 MB
4 GB of OCZ SLI-ready RAM
500 GB Hitachi HHD
Windows XP Pro SP2

Well, I'm having a bit of a crisis!!
Basically, I had all these versions of different bits of my school coursework saved on my school network and on my USB, I got mixed up and, when taking FILES home to complete over the weekend i was in a hurry and COPIED across all the files from the network that were incomplete onto my USB over the versions that were complete and so now i have absolutely hours and hours of coursework disappeared!
does anyone have any advice other than to do all of the work over again? Is there some kind of recycling bin in the USB i can retrieve the files from if they were replaced or overwritten by the old versions?
Please help!!!!
xxHi izzysmith,

If you're using Windows XP, and you connected the USB drive (or network drive) to this computer, and you deleted files from it, and you haven't messed with your RECYCLE Bin settings, then the files should STILL be in your Recycle Bin if you haven't emptied it.

-Don

so i bought a tv tuner card and put it in my computer, turned on the computer and it made WEIRD noises and wouldn't get past the boot screen.  it would show the dell logo with the little loading bar and stuff, but it never got to the windows part.  so i turned the computer off and everything and took the card back out and turned the computer on again and it still won't start up.  it's not making weird noises anymore, but it won't get past the original dell loading screen.  i tried safe mode and everything but once it gets ready to start windows it just freezes, i left it sitting there trying to start up for like 2 hours while i was WATCHING tv and it just sat there frozen.

i don't know much about it's specs cause it's not actually my computer i just use it, but it's a dell optiplex something-or-other (i think a gx240) with windows xp professional.  not sure about anything else other than it has a really crappy graphics card which might not have been compatible, but i didn't think that would make it completely break the computer.

i can only get online at my mom's house so i don't know when i'll be able to check back here but i appreciate any help you guys can give me and i'll get back to you as soon as i can.


thanks,
laurenIt says:
Quote

IBM Compatible PC

I try to run the error check for C drive which requires computer restart. But somehow when I start my computer I get this message that

cannot access the volume for error check.

Since than everytime I start my computer, the computer ATTEMPTS to to the disk check and gives me this message and than starts.

Is there any setting I messed up which needs to be fixed?anyone have any idea which setting I need to set so my computer can access the volume C to run a check disk for volume for errors when I restart my computer?Open the command prompt and type "chkdsk /f"

You will get an message which states:

Chldsk cannot run because the volume is in use by another PROCESS. Would you like to schedule this volume to be checked the next time the system restarts? (Y/N)

Select Y and restart your machinetried, same thing, when I restart my comp it says cannot access volume on drive dont know why it cannot accessDo you have more than one drive?no, only 1, C driveFind out who made that drive.
Then travel to the manuf. site and DLoad the free diagnostics to create a bootable floppy/CD and run them...
This will tell you if you can trust that drive with your data or not.
The manuf. diagnostics are usually WAY more thorough than chkdsk.surprisingly I was running some system scans for other problems and when I restarted my computer, it started working  but atleast its working.

Thanks Quote from: patio on November 27, 2007, 10:11:08 AM

Find out who made that drive.
Then travel to the manuf. site and DLoad the free diagnostics to create a bootable floppy/CD and run them...
This will tell you if you can trust that drive with your data or not.
The manuf. diagnostics are usually way more thorough than chkdsk.

Hi Y'all
I was installing new RAM for my 2nd PC which is for the KIDS but once installed it only registers a little under half of what it actually is.
The Mobo is a M7VIG 400/KM266 PRO with a AMD 1.8GHz Duron processor , I am TRYING to install 2x 1024 GB of RAM but only shows 960 MB so has anyone came across this problem and know how to fix....

                    many thanx in advance
                                 micman888You sure, you bought right type of RAM?

Quote

2 x 184-pin DDR DIMM
Maximum 2.0 GB
DDR 333/266

I went to install my new RAM, I ordered two Kingston 1024MB PC2100 266KHZ Non-Ecc to replace the 512 MB RAM that is already in, TigerDirect checked it's compatibility and it matches the manual (supports DDR SDRAM PC2100 /PC1600).  The motherboard is a K7VTA3 Version 6. I grounded myself and removed the old RAM and installed 1 board first to see if it worked which it did and it registered the extra RAM. I then installed the other board and it would not reboot. The PC makes an AUDIBLE long BEEP sound. I checked the seating of both boards and still could not get it to reboot. I replace the two new boards with the old original 512MB still nothing. A friend suggested to remove the battery and then replace and try again still nothing. Could anyone offer any suggestions ? Thank You, because I am stumped.Try cleaning the contacts. This can be done with a cotton swab and a tiny bit of alcohol. Use extreme care when doing so and allow sufficient time for it to completely and thoroughly dry.Thank you for the advice, I will try that next.How many RAM slots are in this machine and which ones are you using ? ?There are only two slots for the RAM Memory, the first slot on the left hand side had the original memory board in it.Here  is the link to your MBoard manual...
It's possible Tiger DIRECT was mistaken.The original RAM says 512 MB-DDR PC333, the RAM did actually work it was only when I went to install the other 1GB Stick did it not work.

I just upgraded my mobo to a Gigabyte S775 Intel P35 ATX Audio Lan DDRII FSB1333 , now the issues are as followed.

I am a overclocker .

I GOT this mobo on the grounds of the overclocking capabilities , now im stuck .

EVERYTIME i try and change my cpus set frequency from 200 to 250 , i save my settings and the computer restarts .

Now when it restarts it comes back on , and turns off again , then it goes into a loading SCREEN SAYING whats ok and whats not , then i get some sort of cmos error .
I go back into my bios after suffering the restarting torment to find everything has reset itself .

Any ideas??

Everything is connected right as far as im aware.

Tony Help!! ??  whats your CPU?Intel dual core e2140 1.60ghz 1mb cache .Issue solved .  what was the culprit?When i was told to set my ram volts and freq to auto , my motherboard told me to do it , to improve system performance , as i soon as i set it to manual , i could overclock .

Running a 1.6ghz at 2.5ghz so far .

cyrsis should run now .

Took a 3d marks test as well . got 15148 3d marks . that was at 1.9ghz havent even ran it again yet.

Look at my temps:


Tony

We have a one year old Aspire 380 running VISTA.  All of a sudden it no longer sees the card slots. The slots are on the front along with firewire and USB which it "sees" just fine.  when you PUT in a SD photo memory card the GREEN light comes on, but that is all.  Once I put a SD card in and it read it, but that was only once.Ray Thompson .......  So if you go to "My Computer" , there are no ITEMS called ........ removeable DISKS .........  (there should be one for each of the card readers.)
Go into the device manager and scroll down to Portable Devices.... click on the + in front of Portable Devices to expand that heading and tell us what shows up.
Please let us know

dl65 

a modem/router...

I have a brand new Westell Model 6100 Modem from Verizon since the last one was DEFECTIVE(Westell 327W), now, I also use a LAPTOP and I cannot be arsed to go into my computer room and hooking up the cable to it, it is ANNOYING, I use my laptop frequently in my bedroom/dining room, as I am a writer.

Now, as FAR as I know... is it possible to ADD it with a router, etc? How can I attempt this? I already have a TRENDnet TEW-424UB link, which is a router.Are you trying to connect to your adsl router WIRELESSLY? If so, you will need to swap your current adsl router for one which supports wireless.

If you want to connect more than one machine via a wired connection to a single port adsl modem, then you will need a switch.After some research, I need either a router or switch the modem. Thanks. :[

A friend of mine has been having this problem ever since a family member of hers cleaned out the fan of excess dust and hair which it badly needed.

It worked fine for a day and then since then will not boot past the error MESSAGE in the subject.

I reset to default BIOS settings which did not fix or change anything that was happening. I suggested it was a possible HDD problem and she purchased a new one to replace it. This did nothing either and is STILL experiencing the error.

We attempted to do a fresh Windows install as well and it comes up stating that it is having problems detecting an HDD with both the new and the OLD HDD installed.

Unsure what else to do next. We have disassembled the laptop to check all connections and pins, everything seems to be fine.

anyone have any ideas?It SOUNDS LIKE it is trying to boot from a network device. Go into bios and make sure the PXE is the last selectable device.It is set as the last bootable device, Floppy, CD, HDD, then LAN

So, I tried to UPGRADE my graphics card today. I don't know the specs for either card, but I know both have worked in my unit before. When I tried to turn it on, I got the magical black screen of boot options. I tried them all, NONE of them went through and it just kept on going back to that miserable screen. I SWITCHED the cards back, but it still won't go. Everything I've seen so far tells me to use the Windows XP CD... which I don't have...  I'm at a loss as for what to do, please help! Quote from: Keiharu on December 02, 2007, 03:10:09 PM

So, I tried to upgrade my graphics card today. I don't know the specs for either card, but I know both have worked in my unit before.

trying to UPGRADE my pc so i have purchased the following

FOXCONN 662MMX MOTHERBOARD
CELERON D 3.2 PROCCESSOR
ATI SAPPHIRE HD 2400 PRO GRAPHICS CARD
WIN POWER 550W POWER SUPPLY

Cannot get any video out put tried with the 20 pin power connector and the 24 pin connector, have not installed any ddr2667 memory yet but i thought it would POST anyway HELP PLEASE

ADE

I have an old IBM Netvista (PIII, Model Netvista A20, Machine Type 6266) running Windows 2000 SP4, and it has always had a somewhat FAULTY integrated video chip that creates a picture with jagged edges. Most recently, it seems that the chip is about to fail, with dark horizontal and vertical moving lines all ACROSS the screen. This does go away after a while, sometimes, and sometimes not.

I tried the monitor on my laptop and there is not the same issue, so my guess is the video is at fault. I want to get an video card so I can get away from using the Intel Integrated video, but this is a small form desktop, without much horizontal room for typical video card, and it only has PCI slots. So I was wondering, are they any old video card models out there that would fit in this desktop on a PCI slot? Any suggestions on how to find them?

I don't really care about the specs of the card as long as it is a smaller card (in height basically) and is PCI. 

Here's a picture of what the Netvista looks like:



Any help is appreciated. Take a look here. Plenty of PCI video cards to choose from and many that doesn't take up much room. It's hard for me to say which one will fit but I would think you should be able to get one of the small ones into any machine.Ah, memories . . . the Netvista.
Got any dimensions on how high the card could be?
The support site is a mess and I can't find what I'm looking for.Actually you need a "low profile PCI video card" like here:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Description=low+profile+PCI+video

You can also check eBay ETC. for that same designation. You may find something cheaper. 

You may need to disable the onboard video in the BIOS. I don't know if that particular model does it automatically as you did not post the 7 digit machine code (xxxx-xxx) found on the case.

GX1The serial number is FB260TZ.  I'll take a look at some low-profile cards.  Thanks.

Does anyone know if this is a low profile card?

http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=ATI-RAGEXL-8M&cat=VCD

I like the price, but don't know if it will fit, the lowest priced card I find on newegg is about $34.No. If it is a low profile card it will clearly be stated in the listing. Don't even assume this by looking at a picture.

And that is not a machine type number. It will be something like 6461-N4U (it starts with numbers) and can be found in the BIOS screen, under system summary. (F1 when booting.)  Quote from: GX1_Man on November 18, 2007, 02:23:01 PM

No. If it is a low profile card it will clearly be stated in the listing. Don't even assume this by looking at a picture.

And that is not a machine type number. It will be something like 6461-N4U (it starts with numbers) and can be found in the BIOS screen, under system summary. (F1 when booting.) 

yo dudes! my combo drive jus malfunctioned and IM gonna buy a new DVD writer...IMA bit short on cash and have only like about $40 to spare fr that....so plz post any suggestions...oh by the WAY i live in the UNITED ARAB EMIRATES,DUBAI. so i PREFER suggestions for drives available in this region,but plz post any comment...
Thanks !!!

I've noticed lately that 3D games just aren't running like they used to. Even older games that I used to run at full settings perfectly now run slower. My video card is about 2 years old. Is it possible that the VPU could be slowing with age?

Computer Specs:
Pentium 4 3.06GHz
ASUS P5VDC-MX motherboard
1GB RAM
Sapphire ATI Radeon 9550, 256MB
Soundblaster Live! 24-bit 7.1 Surround
Windows XP SP2

I've noticed in newer games that I more than meet the minimum requirements for are running really slow (for example Faces of War, Supreme Commander, Stronghold Legends). Well, I DECIDED to install and try out some older games and they seemed to be having the same trouble. For example, FREELANCER. I pulled it out and dusted it off and installed it. Set the video settings to maximum, which is where I had them set before and it ran beautifully. Now, it gets slow and choppy (3D only, not the audio) just like the newer games do. As does Command & Conquer Generals and Battlefield 2, both of which I used to run at full settings with this configuration. Now all of those games will only run smoothly at low-mid settings.

I've downloaded the latest Catalyst driver, sound driver, game patches, everything is up to date.

So, before I go out and spend money on a new card, anyone have any suggestions?It's a software issue most likely. The new drivers could be worse than the old.

But you should really just go ahead and upgrade your PC.
The effort that you put into writing this post is enough to earn you the cash needed to buy a graphics card 4 times better. I reccomend the X1950 Pro or the 7600 GT.He gets paid for posting ? ? ? Quote from: patio on November 28, 2007, 08:04:35 AM

He gets paid for posting ? ? ?

One more thing to try - cleaning out the video card fan, it's possible it's overheating.

One more thing to try - cleaning out the video card fan, it's possible it's overheating.
But I would also recommend a new card, the 9550 is just not going to cut it with newer games.

Quote from: Calum on November 28, 2007, 12:13:37 PM

One more thing to try - cleaning out the video card fan, it's possible it's overheating.
But I would also recommend a new card, the 9550 is just not going to cut it with newer games.

Think it might have to cut it for a while. I'll be moving back to the US with my girlfriend in about 6 months. $4500+ for everything. That and I just ordered my laptop this week. Other non-essentials are gonna have to wait 

He gets paid for posting ? ? ?

Quote from: patio on November 28, 2007, 08:04:35 AM

He gets paid for posting ? ? ?

How is that helpful to the person who started the thread and asked the question?

Seriously, patio, my patience with you is wearing thin, and you are becoming quite annoying.

       
        ^
        ^
        ||
       Jess

Quote from: Jess607 on November 29, 2007, 02:45:19 AM

Quote from: patio on November 28, 2007, 08:04:35 AM

He gets paid for posting ? ? ?

How is that helpful to the person who started the thread and asked the question?

Seriously, patio, my patience with you is wearing thin, and you are becoming quite annoying.

how is flaming another fellow forum member helpful to the person who started the thread? please refrain from such behavior as we are all one community. if you wish to flame me for making this post, there is nothing stopping you, just know that i will not be participating.

Quote from: Jess607 on November 29, 2007, 09:32:12 PM

Quote from: WillyW on November 29, 2007, 12:48:33 PM

       
        ^
        ^
        ||
       Jess

Well now, what is this? Another random idiot who thinks himself great enough to flame me.

Jess607: You need to behave young man.We enjoy joking but,enticing  a
flame war is not the right way. You appear to know what you are
doing.I would hope you could settle down and become friends with
the members rather than upset everyone.So,what do you think friend?

Robert

Have an HP that doesn't respond to power button. No fans or lites. Had PSU checked at Compusa and they say it's OK. There is a GREEN led on the PSU that lights when I plug it in to 120V but when I plug the large CONNECTOR into the mobo the led goes out. Have unplugged all unnecessary items to no avail. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks
Mike
So you are plugged into the wall WHILE you are PLUGGING in the motherboard? 

Does the light still COME on before this happens now?

What happened prior to this that was unusualWith power unplugged from mobo I plug in PSU to wall. Green led comes on. I unplug from wall, plug connector into mobo then plug into wall and the green led does not come on. It's ALMOST like something on the mobo is shunting down the PSU. I've unplugged all components with the same results. Thanks for your response and any further info you can provide.
Mike

Hi!
I'm having some issues with my computer in the following way;
When playing a game, any game at all, I get FPS drops a few minutes into the game, that lasts for a few seconds. It's not a normal FPS drop, since it always goes down to 1 FPS, making the game unplayable during those few seconds. Afterwards, it returns to its original state, for half a minute, just to be able to drop down to 1 fps again.

It keeps doing that forever and ever, and I just can't seem to find what's wrong.
Having searched the internet for days, I couldn't find anyone with the same issue, or anything close to it, so I came here.

I've TRIED the following;


Updated the Bios (without result)
Reinstalled windows 4 times.
Tried alot of different drivers for my Graphic card.
I've used programs that checks my Hardware speed and TEMPERATURE, but they all seemed normal.
I've also tried my Graphic card in another computer, together with the ram, and both of them worked perfectly.
So I assumed there was something wrong with the Motherboard or the Processor, thus I sent both BACK to the seller, who performed an error check, and found nothing wrong, since both of them worked just perfectly in his computer.
I've also bought a new hard drive but without results yet again.

So I ask the lot of you, what could possibly be wrong with my computer?

Apparantely, there's nothing wrong with;
The Ram
The GFX
The Processor
The Mobo
The Hard Drive
The Drivers

Could it be the power SUPPLY? SOUNDS ockward to me, what power supply would be able to support the computer all the time, except for a few seconds into a game?

I've got the following components:

Mobo:
Asus M2N-MX SE nForce 430 + GeForce 6100 2DDR2-DIMM 2PCI 1PCIe SATA Raid Audio LAN Socket AM2 mATX

Processor:
AMD Athlon64 X2 Dual-Core 6000+ 3.0GHz 2x1MB Boxed (with cpu-cooler!) Socket AM2

Ram:
Corsair XMS2-6400 TWIN2X2048-6400 5-5-5-12 Xtreme 2x1024MB (tot. 2GB) DDR2 PC2-6400 800MHz with Heatsink

Graphic card:
Asus Extreme GeForce 8800GTS 320MB DDR3 TV-out HDTV DUAL DVI SLI-ready RETAIL PCI Express

Power Supply:
Xilence 480W 12cm Fan REDWING ATX12V V2.0

Thanks in advance,
Jonas.

hope someone can help me out ...i bought a pioneer-112d dvd/cd writer with no instructions... i properly installed the drive physically into my computer... i know this because when i first booted the system up after the installation, the computer recognized new hardware for a short while. After this I attempted to use the drive, which will open and close, but it will not read the disk and I am unsure of the problem. I have attempted to install the proper drivers to make it work, but this has not worked either.

P.S. I know a little about computers, but not a whole lot and have been attempting to fix this for quite a while now. Any help by someone with some step by step advice WOULD be very greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!IF  your  running  Mcafee/ Norton   or  any other  anti  virus program during your installation - while downloading...turn them off....* 

(if running  windows of course)

Go into your bios  if  comfortable and make sure it is recognized there as well.
do google search on that topic if not sure*

stupid, but simple..double check your connections,  open up  case  and tweak  wires/  make sure tight one  more time.

check all your connections including  monitor

post  back  ~
 Did you try to get a firmware from here:
HEREWhat OS ? ?
Anything after WIN2K should not need drivers.
Is this a used drive ? ?
I would also try another IDE cable and hook it up as the only drive on that cable jumpered as MASTER...Yes, check the jumpers. If you don't know what that is, then it's a rime suspect.

A new drive with no instructions of any sort always is a crapshoot. Do you have a warranty of some type? If it really is new, then there can be problems anyway. If it is a refurb or used, your chances of problems increase.

Can you try it on another machine to see if it functional?Alright, thanks so far EVERYONE for your help! Now when I try to add new hardware in begins to recognize as a new CD-ROM drive, then says an error occurred while installing. Your new hardware may not work properly. QUOTE

I would also try another IDE cable and hook it up as the only drive on that cable jumpered as master...

hope someone can help me out ...i bought a pioneer-112d dvd/cd writer with no  I have attempted to install the proper drivers to make it work, but this has not worked either.

My brothers say it might be RAM but i would like to be sure before i go and buy new ram sticks lol.

My computer started acting up not opening applications such as Iexplorer or NOTEPAD ect. The only things it would open were Files and Jpegs but nothing else!

So i tried to reboot it and then once i sign into my windows account it only shows the desktop picture and the mouse cursor. Ive reformated like 5 times but everytime i restart, it goes back to the same thing. Finally it stopped reformating and said there was a critical error. So i switched hard drives and reformated and it just did the same thing with the desktop.

Help please and thank you Will it boot into Safe Mode? What Windows version?it wont boot into safe mode and it has windows home ADDITION Quote

it wont boot into safe mode

it has windows home addition

Go to start then run and type chkdsk then hit ok , see if it picks up any bad sectors .


Tony

Ok, so I have a Dell DIMENSION E510. Standard Mobo, and HDD.

However, a few days ago it randomly shut off, and since then WHENEVER I even connect a power supply, it flashes orange instead of green where the power button is.

It doesn't boot, trigger the fans, or anything, just sits there and flashes orange light, even with the HDD unconnected.

any ideas?

[Thanks for the help and ideas in my last thread Broni.]If you are swapping PSU's in there stop immediately until you are sure they are Dell units.
You risk permanent damage as Dell wires most (but not all ) of their PSU's differently...
What happened that you started to suspect power ISSUES ? ?PSU's?

I'm unfamiliar with the term.PSU -Power Supply UnitI'm not swapping PSUs.

This may be the problem with SMPS power supply unit. if you are an advanced user yu can check up the SMPS WHETHER it is giving out put or not and neccesary change.

With Rgd

kartheek M Quote from: hanku on November 10, 2007, 12:13:27 PM

However, a few days ago it randomly shut off, and since then whenever I even connect a power supply, it flashes orange instead of green where the power button is.

Having a problem with Windows 98SE. I keep getting a "not enough resources" message when I try to OPEN files or run programs. I get told to quit other programs and try again. When I press CTRL+Delete and stop the programs, I still get the same message, even if I End Task all of them! There's plenty of memory on the C drive according to Properties. Any ideas? I know 98 is a bit ancient, but the old computer comes in handy when the new Vista one is being used by someone else, plus it has docs on I don't want to lose.How much RAM is installed on the computer?

Alan <><  Quote from: Steve M on November 29, 2007, 07:22:28 AM

Having a problem with Windows 98SE. I keep getting a "not enough resources" message when I try to open files or run programs. I get told to quit other programs and try again. When I press CTRL+Delete and stop the programs, I still get the same message, even if I End Task all of them! There's plenty of memory on the C drive according to Properties. Any ideas? I know 98 is a bit ancient, but the old computer comes in handy when the new Vista one is being used by someone else, plus it has docs on I don't want to lose.

There's plenty of memory on the C drive according to Properties.

special memory areas called heaps that Windows 98 uses to store data structures for things like windows, menus, toolbars, fonts, ports, and more.  The irony lies in the frustrating fact that your computer can have megabytes of free memory, but if the system resource heaps reach their limits, your programs may crash and Windows itself may refuse to run.

Some Ways to Save System Resources

    o  Shutdown any applications you're not using.

    o  Many programs use up system resources as you work, and the longer the program is open, the more unnecessary resources will be allocated.  You can rid the system of these unnecessary resources by exiting and restarting the application.

    o  Each open document window uses up some resources, so close any documents you don't need.

    o  Other application features - such as toolbars and status bars - use up resources, so shut down any of these features that you don't use.

    o  Some applications are huge system resource hogs.  Internet Explorer, for example, seems to use an inordinate amount of resources, particularly if it is running for a long time.  Keep an eye on your resources as you use your programs to determine which ones seem to use up a large amount of resources.  Use those programs as sparingly as possible, and never leave them running for long periods of time.

    o  Turn off the Active Desktop.

    o  Don't use wallpaper, animated cursors, or desktop themes.

    o  Run your DOS applications full-screen instead of in a window.

OK, more info. Memory: 256 RAM, System Resources: 59% free
Programs that come up when I do CTRL/Alt/Delete:

...

Perhaps my boot up procedure needs altering, but if that's the case, how?
...

 All ideas much appreciated.

Dump AVG when you are not on the internet - totally ties up w98se systems resources - i.e. Word used to take up to 4 mins to load for me and with AVG turned off loads in about 15 secs!  Found this out by playing with dumping one progam after another.

The Windows 9x operating systems have a "fixed" amount of system resource space available.  It has nothing to do with the amount of RAM you have in your system.

Dump AVG when you are not on the internet - totally ties up w98se systems resources - i.e. Word used to take up to 4 mins to load for me and with AVG turned off loads in about 15 secs!  Found this out by playing with dumping one progam after another.

I did try a couple of emulators for it, but neither was satisfactory.

I have a custom computer with a 3.40 GHz PROCESSOR, 2.75 GB of RAM, and a GeForce 8600 Graphics card (I can provide more info if needed). For some reason when I play games (League of Legends mainly) I will run okay for a game or two, and then all of a sudden in the middle of a game my framerate will drop from 60-30, down to 3-10. Also I can't leave my computer running and walk away because after awhile the whole computer will freeze and the only thing i can do is to do a hard restart. My old computer died on me and this was my spare due to the fact that I really can;t afford a new one at the moment and this lag in-game makes it pretty much unplayable, and since i cant leave my computer running it's pretty much impossible to download any large file, so if I could receive some possible help on this situation I would greatly appreciate it. ThanksFreezing could be a NUMBER of things, like overheating, virus, spyware etc. Make sure the computer is not overheating first - Check Cpu temps and clean any dust out of the computer. I would then GET a spyware program and check for spyware, I use super anti spyware free addition for my spyware checks, but there are other free ones about. Also, scan for VIRUSES, if you haven't got an Anti Virus program installed then get the free AVG one. I have an anti-spyware/virus protection software thats not the problem. I checked for malware, and i checked for overheating. None of these are the problem. if it was an easy fix like those I wouldn't be asking for help.Well how about you say what you have tried and then we will know not to mention it? I was going to say maybe your Graphics card is overheating but have you already looked at that? List below of things that could cause computer to freeze if faulty, so I would suggest testing these with diagnostic software.

RAM
Hard Drive
Virus, Spyware
Windows, Corrupted
Overheating

My impression is that if you buy an IPAD you're limited to buying products from Apple.  If you buy a Kindle you have to buy from Amazon.  If you buy a Nook you MUST buy from Barnes and Noble.  For example, if you own a Nook you can't buy and download a book from Amazon.
Please correct this if I'm wrong or expand on how this works.
But what if you buy an Android tablet (Samsung, Lenavo, Asus, etc.).  Can you buy apps to enable  you to buy from Apple, Amazon and B&AMP;N?  If so, this SEEMS a huge selling point for Android tablets, and this is what I'll buy.
Any input from someone more knowledgeable than I (everyone) will be appreciated.Many apps on Apple are also available on Android so I don't see it as a problem, but I prefer Android because it has more free Apps.

I'm getting a PC made by Digital Storm.  Windows OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium (64-Bit Edition)

The components I'm concerned about are the

Graphics Cards:  2x SLI Quad SLI (NVIDIA GeForce GTX 590 3GB)

Sound CARD:  Auzen X-Fi Hometheater HD 7.1 (Model: AZTHTHD02817) (PCI-Express Slot Based)

Monitor:  NVIDIA 3D Vision 2 Kit (Asus 27 inch 120Hz VG278H + NVIDIA 3D V2 Glasses)

The following image has been taken from the Sound card company (Auzen) and doctored with the connection interfaces of my Graphics cards and Monitor



I'd like to know if these components are compatible and exactly how they connect, or if hooking my Graphics cards into the Sound Card is even needed

Full Specs of the PC

CHASSIS Model: Special Deal Hot Seller - Black OPS HailStorm Edition
Exterior Finish: - EXOTIC Black Smoke High-Gloss Paint Finish (HailStorm Chassis Only)
Processor: Intel Core i7 2700K 3.50 GHz (Unlocked CPU for Extreme Overclocking) (Quad Core)
Motherboard: ASUS Maximus IV Extreme-Z (Intel Z68 Chipset) (Features Intel Quick Sync Technology)
System Memory: 16GB DDR3 2133MHz Corsair Dominator GT with DHX (Performance)
Power Supply: 1200W Digital Storm Certified (Dual/Triple/Quad SLI Compatible) (Silent Edition Highly Recommended) 
Hard Drive Set 1: Operating System: 1x (750GB Seagate Barracuda (7200 RPM) (32MB Cache) (Model: HD-ST3750528AS)
Set 1 Raid Options: Configure HDD Set 1 to a Raid 1 Config - Mirror (Requires Two HDDs)
Hard Drive Set 2: Multimedia\Data: 1x (750GB Seagate Barracuda (7200 RPM) (32MB Cache) (Model: HD-ST3750528AS)
Hard Drive Set 3: Backup\Misc.: - No Thanks
Optical Drive 1: Blu-Ray & DVD Writer/Reader (Burn + Play Blu-Ray & DVDs) (12x BD-R) (Lite-On iHBS112)
Internet Access: !PROMOTION: Killer 2100 (Optimized for Online Gaming) Lag and Latency Reduction
Video Card: 2x SLI Quad SLI (NVIDIA GeForce GTX 590 3GB (Includes PhysX Technology)
Add-on Card: USB 3.0 4-Port PCI Express Card
Sound Card: Auzen X-Fi Hometheater HD 7.1 (Model: AZTHTHD02817) (PCI-Express Slot Based)
Extreme Cooling: AIR: Stage 2: Noctua NH-D14 SE2011 Extreme Performance
H20 Tube Color:- Not Applicable, I do not have a FrostChill or Sub-Zero LCS Cooling System Selected
Chassis Airflow: Upgrade Chassis With LED Performance Fans (RED) (Up to 6 Fans)
Internal Lighting: Internal Chassis Lighting System (Red)
Enhancements: Strike-X AeroCool Temperature Display & Fan Controller (Requires Chassis Airflow Upgrade)
Chassis Mods: HailStorm & 950Si: Processor & Video Card Area: Drill and Mount Two Side Window 120mm Fan Blow-Holes
Noise Reduction: Noise SUPPRESSION Package Stage 2 (Optimized Airflow & Fan Speeds with Noise Dampening Material)
Boost Processor: Stage 1: Overclock CPU 4.0GHz to 4.4GHz
Boost Video Card: FREE: Yes, Overclock the video card(s) as much as possible with complete stability
Boost Memory: Memory Fan Kit Only (Does not include memory overclocking service)
Boost OS: FREE: Yes, Disable and tweak all of the non-crucial services on the operating system
Windows OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium (64-Bit Edition)
Recovery Tools: Advanced Recovery Kit (40GB Hard Drive Partition of Image With OS & Drivers)
Virus Protection: McAfee Internet Security 2011 (Virus, Spyware , Spam, Phishing, Firewall, Online Backup Protection)
Office: Microsoft Office 2010 Office Home and Business (PC Attach Key PKC)
Display: NVIDIA 3D Vision 2 Kit (Asus 27 inch 120Hz VG278H + NVIDIA 3D V2 Glasses)
Surge Shield: APC SurgeArrest Personal PER7 (7 Outlet) 120V Surge Protector
Keyboard: Razer Lycosa Mirror Special Edition (Gaming Keyboard)
Mouse: Corsair Vengeance M60 (Laser 5700 dpi) (FPS Gaming Mouse) (USB Wired)


[year+ old attachment deleted by admin]The sound card relies on the graphics card's HDMI sound output.
You can also do this, though:

from http://www.auzentech.com/site/products/x-fi_hometheater_hd.php

i want good overhead headphones for gaming and listening music.i would prefer headphones having really good bass As i usually listen to heavy metal.my budget is 100$.please recommend me some.Almost anything other than ear buds. Name brand not important.  Found a nice pair at Big Lots here in Californian. Put em on and it sounds like a HOME theater. FANTASTIC bass. Clean crystal high range. Best $8 investment I ever made.


[year+ old attachment DELETED by admin]I spent $11.00 on a pair of Coby headphones at Winners.  Great sound and good bass.I would say the Razer Carcharias. There great and cost about 80 bucks. i want something that can be used both on my pc and my phone.Unless your phone uses some odd proprietary connector anything with a standard 3.5mm jack will do fine.
Transfusion, the diagram is not representative of headphones used on a PC.
On a PC there are separate plugs for Mic and Ear phone.

well i need something that i can use in mobile only for listening music.how are skullcandy skullcrushers? Quote from: Geek-9pm on February 08, 2012, 11:58:01 PM

Transfusion, the diagram is not representative of headphones used on a PC.
On a PC there are separate plugs for Mic and Ear phone.

well i need something that i can use in mobile only for listening music.how are skullcandy skullcrushers?

Have you guys had any experience with powerline adapters? And if so, what brands?Are you referring to powerline network adapters?  Nope, NEVER tried them.I use comtrend adapters, they work well and are easy to set up. Quote from: bacon buttie on FEBRUARY 07, 2012, 06:04:44 AM

I use comtrend adapters, they work well and are easy to set up.

My hp laserjet mono printer model 1018 suddenly stopped printing.  When I switch it on, the green light  lights up and remains lit up as it always does.  However, when I try to print, the red light does not SHOW and the printer will not work.  All connections have been checked and there is no paper jam. Can any benefactor help PLSE? Am an oldage pensioner and often feel frustrated with computer navigation.  GRATEFUL JOEHave you verified that the toner is still AVAILABLE?truenorthhttp://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/Document.jsp?lang=en&cc=us&taskId=110&prodSeriesId=1814092&prodTypeId=18972&prodSeriesId=1814092&objectID=c00602233Guzeppi,I acknowledge your PM to me and as i stated i am replying to your question as a part of this thread hopefully for your benefit and perhaps  a benefit to other CH members. If you are inquiring about whether there is still toner available for printing it might be because you have never CHANGED the toner cartridge. Depending on how long you have been using this printer and how much printing you have done with it you may be out of toner.The toner is a consumable essential to your being able to print. They do have a life SPAN and will need to be replaced when their liquid is exhausted. Your manual will indicate where it is located and how to remove and change it. However given CC's link i urge you to read it closely and see if any of the issues that the link deals with may be causing your issue BEFORE you replace the toner cartridge. I would also see if your manual indicates what if anything by way of advisory or warning that the printer creates when the toner is exhausted. I would expect that the printer would produce some advisory to replace the toner. truenorthMany thks for your kind replies, but it is not a toner problem.  I had the printer checked by a  qualified technician this afternoon and it worked well in his laboratory.  He printed a test page which came out perfect; I now have the printer back home and the tech suggests there might be something wrong with my computer, but how come the colour inkjet printer works well?  The mind boggles.  Many thks again.  JoeHave you tried re-installing the printer driver?Given that i appears that you have more than one printer associated with your computer this issue can be caused by your NOT having the laser printer designated as the "default " printer. Have you checked on that possibility?truenorth

Just last night. i tried to log onto my computer.. and within 10minutes later, my screen on my desktop turned completely black, and not only that..   but i was unable to move my mouse.. or type anything..  it was as if my power was shut off, but it wasn't? my power was on.. and my computer was plugged in   can someone help me? i'm completely lost. I don't know what to do..   a friend has told me.. that MAYBE it has something to do with my ram? or graphics.. i don't know..   my screen shuts off on its own..   just as if i were to shut off the power.   And also the lights on my computer are DIM.. they use to be more bright before.. maybe i have a battery problem.. if anyone has any idea.. as to what the problem could be, can you please let me know? or email me.. i would be deeply appreciative  thank you <3In regards about the post i just left, i have another problem to mention..   also when i was running scans with both norton ,and malwarebytes,  ...   no virus or any other problems were detected..  but norton has been notifying me of  multiple " high cpu usage" and im unsure of what that could be from?..  it was saying that to me..  from various PROGRAMS i been using.  Such as ( firefox, aim ) other websites..   i don't understand the reason in why my computer is having these problems.. this is the first time this has happened..   please read my other post.. and this as well and get back to me..  and let me know what i should do Please do not start new threads for existing problems. I've merged your TWO posts.