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Hello EVERYONE,
I've got a laptop monitor that I salvaged from an older laptop. See, here:
http://img153.imageshack.us/i/photoyo.jpg/

It has these connections on the back of the PANEL, which are standard laptop connections I'd assume. See, here:
http://img132.imageshack.us/i/photo2cr.jpg/

What would I need to do in ORDER to connect this to a standard VGA or DVI port, assuming it is possible?

Thanks.I'd stroll into Radio Shack and/or a local PC repair shop to see if this is doable...
I'm sure it is.I think you need the CONTROLLER for the LCD screen. I ran into that problem with that project.

I had an old Compaq and the controller was soldered to the motherboard.

I have a dual hard DRIVE, when I INSTALLED windows 7, the os drive and the recovery drive switched places now I have low disc space. How do I switch it back? I gone through computer MANAGEMENT but was not ALLOWED to switch the letters. What do I do now?Sounds like you installed W7 on the wrong drive. If that's the case, uninstall it (format) and start again - unless there is data on that drive/partition you NEED to save first.What's a dual hard drive ? ?

If you mean you are dual-booting that's fiene...
However we are gonna need alot more info such as what OS's are involved...size of the drive...is there another drive involved...etc...

I have a 20gb hard drive that is only formatting to 15.9 GB.  I do not see any hidden partition in either computer management or diskpart.  I know that it should be about 18.6 gb in size.  Any ideas?PATIO,

Thanks for posting the table.  Like I said in the original post, I know it's supposed to format out to about 18.6 GB but it is only formatting to about 15.9 GB, way less than what the table shows.  I am CHECKING these drives via a usb cable using windows XP Pro on the machine checking the drives.  DISK management in XP does not show any hidden partitions nor does DISKPART utiltiy.How was it formatted and what format is it ? ?
Diskpart should show it correctly...
used disk manager to format it.  Deleted all partitions first.  Formatted in NTFS.
Did it ever have Linux on it that you know of ? ?It might have.  The drives came from IBM laptops with windows XP pro and, if I am not mistaken, they use linux for their OS RECOVERY partition.Could be bad sectors on the disk.
Run chkdisk.Always run chkdsk with the repair option.  No luck.Then there's probably a hidden restore partition on there...
The only way to check this would be to track down what type of machine it came out of...
Although i STILL say diskpart should show it...

IDEA: DLoad and install the Free ver. of Easus partition manager and see it that picks it up...

Sorry if this is in the wrong place, I'm new in more ways than one . . .

So here's my problem. A couple weeks ago, I overheated my laptop and had to buy a new adapter via internet. It's a Toshiba Satellite A105 series. I tried very hard to keep this from happening, but living in the hottest city in the state doesn't exactly help . . .

So my laptop has been off for a few weeks now. Today I got the new adapter. Plugged it up. Turned it on. It ran just FINE for about an hour. Of course, there were problems with the clock that I knew about but chose to ignore for the time being . . .

Then I get on the internet and download some customized stuff for a pc game, and that's where the problems began. One file had a virus and screwed up my computer. I restarted it intent on using system restore. The computer has since failed to boot completely.

After the Toshiba loading screen, all I get is a black screen while the computer continues running. I already tried removing the CMOS battery. It's the kind that doesn't remove. Then I tried setting the CONFIGURATIONS to default. That didn't work either. And I couldn't possibly leave my laptop on for 24 hours straight because it would most certainly overheat again.

My last resort would be to just have a new battery installed, but I live in a very small town and I know that it won't happen right away. I need my laptop back a.s.a.p. 

Is there anything else I can do? Or am I just screwed? Please help!!!!

Thank you....... Ok I found out it was a virus after all. A BIOS virus that is keeping my laptop from booting. This being a Toshiba laptop, it did not come with an OS cd, but a recovery cd that would wipe my computer clean. I REALLY need to backup my data, but how can I do that when I can't even boot up in safe mode? It hangs in safe mode at isapnp every time.  If someone could help me out, I would be very MUCH obliged.

THANKS.....Grab one of these...

                             


About 8 Bucks.. 2.5" .laptop to IDE connecter...ENABLES you to remove the laptop drive (easy) and connect it to any working desktop machine to retrieve your data...

My COMPUTER monitor was working fine but when i came back from cooking some tea and moved the mouse to get rid of the screen saver the picture flashed for a second then the screen when blank.
The on LIGHT is still working and turning the monitor off and on again will display the image for a second and then go blank again.
I have tried the monitor on a different computer and the same thing occurs.

Does anybody know what the problem is and how it can be fixed?

The only thing i can think of is that I was CHANGING the resolution setting earlier today, but set them back to their original settings. Perhaps this could have been the source of the problem

Any help will be much appreciated
many THANKS,
iain 13  Sounds like you need a new monitor. Normally I would ask you to try it on another machine but that didn't work.

I would say to start to look for a new one.

Thing is I was just about to buy a new one, but to use it as a dual monitor alongside the existing one
Looks like my plans may be scuppered now What would be the reason for it just suddenly packing it in?
Whilst it was still turned on too

All electronic components eventually fail.I've had things fail when they were turned off....

Can't think of her name though off the top of my head...It just seemed odd that it happened to be the one day that I fiddled about with the resolution settings
Thought MAYBE I had done something there Quote from: patio on July 13, 2010, 04:36:42 PM

I've had things fail when they were turned off....

Can't think of her name though off the top of my head...

Once again back with another problem with my computer...

I recently bought VERIZON's Droid incredible. With the phone you can "TETHER" it to the computer so you can get to the internet on the mobile connection. Our internet was disconnected today so I figured i'd give it a shot.

I updated to service pack 3, I downloaded the program to do the tethering, I let my phone install drivers. I couldn't get my computer to connect to the internet through my phone so I restarted. I ended up with this BSOD:

A problem has been detected and Windows has been shut down to prevent damage to your computer.

If this is the first time you've seen this stop error screen, restart your computer. If this screen appears again, follow these steps:

Check for viruses on your computer. Remove any newly installed hard drives or hard drive controllers. Check your hard drive to make sure it is properly configured and terminated. Run chkdsk /f to check for hard drive corruption, and then restart your computer.

Technical information:
*** stop: 0x0000007b (0xf789e528, 0xc0000034, 0x00000000, 0x00000000)

I get the BSOD on every start up now. I can't boot into safe mode or last known good config. I don't know enough to go into the other boot options like when you press f2 or f8.

I can't find my recovery CDS and dell gave me the run around when I tried asking them to mail me copies of them again (computer's out of warranty). So I'm hoping this can be FIXED without reinstalling windows. 

I have a dell inspiron e 1505 laptop
Windows xp media center edition 2005, sp3

Let me know if there's important DETAILS I'm missingHey,

Try this link here:
http://pcsupport.about.com/od/findbyerrormessage/a/stop0x0000007b.htm

Most likely the Safe mode or the last known good configuration will be the easiest route that will fix the problem One of the most common Blue Screen errors faced by the computer users with a Windows xp operating system is the “STOP 0×0000007B” popularly known as 0×7B or “Inaccessible Boot Device”. This error is generally caused due to severe problem in the hard drive controller. Beside this, a virus attack in the boot sector or a corruption in the data or an improper installation of the hard drive or wrong configuration of the drive in the BIOS may also be responsible for this problem.
Quote from: michelsmith on July 05, 2010, 01:29:41 AM

One of the most common Blue Screen errors faced by the computer users with a Windows xp operating system is the “STOP 0×0000007B” popularly known as 0×7B or “Inaccessible Boot Device”. This error is generally caused due to severe problem in the hard drive controller. Beside this, a virus attack in the boot sector or a corruption in the data or an improper installation of the hard drive or wrong configuration of the drive in the BIOS may also be responsible for this problem.

hi, i have a problem with my dell. i cannot get my cd drive to work. i ordered one off of the internet, and i plugged it in and it didn't work. it did the same thing as the one i thought to be dead. i was thinking it could be the cable that connects it to the motherboard, but at this point i'm at a loss..... i'm 90% sure its only the cable, and not the motherboard......any help would be greatly appreciated......OS is Windows 7 Ultimate, CD Drives are a Toshiba and a Dell......thanks for your help.How is it connected cable wise and how is it jumpered ? ?
Was it from eBay ? ?it doesn't have any jumper settings, it wasn't from ebay it was from Txess, an independent computer parts dealership. its the slim-style drives, that has one cable connecting the motherboard to the drive. heres a link to the description of the drive: [/url]http://www.txcesssurplus.com/servlet/the-6609/Dell-Dimension-5100c-OptiPlex/Detail[/url]
The cable looks just like the one here:
[urlhttp://www.txcesssurplus.com/servlet/the-6915/Dell-Dimension-OptiPlex-SFF/Detail][/url]
I beleive the drive is a parallel ata, at least thats what the BIOS is saying.....
thanks for your help.the thing is, everything else works. Windows boots and shuts down properly, all my other devices (sound, USB adapters, Network cards, Video Cards, etc.) work to, everything but the CD drive. the articles i've read indicate that its working fine. this is the frustration! i have no clue what to do!Do you have one or two connected optical drives in your computer? What happens to your previous optical drive that was replaced? Was it working, recognized without conflict and what was the specific model of your replaced cd-drive? i only have my one cd drive connected, the BIOS was not recognizing either one of the drives.....the newest one was professionally tested before it was shipped out. the newest one is a Dell X7082. my plans was to buy a plane jane cd drive, and then if that fixed it i would buy a dvd ram drive for it. also, the BIOS detected my HDD, and everything else on the computer works...... unsure what to do next Check device MANAGER under hardware other than the BIOS detection to determine the status of optical drive. If found detected, try manually unistall and install CD-drive and click scan for hardware changes. What trouble do you mean when it does not work? Does light sensor for optical drive flashes when booting? While Computer is running, does it able to open/close CD-drive tray when pressing the buttton?i've tried that. Windows doesn't detect it. if the BIOS doesn't detect it, that means Windows will not find it. here is what the bios is saying:
Drive 0 is not found; PATA..... something along that line of thought.
the BIOS does not recognize the drives, and they both do exactly the same thing.... they light up and open until Windows boots. this is why i thought it to be the cable, because both dries are doing the exact same thing. Ok. How many optical drive connector does your computer have? If everything else is a no-go for detection regarding your new CD-drive, you may want to resort to testing your toshiba and dell CD-drive to ANOTHER computer with maybe same or different  win xp OS version. IDE drives require PROPER jumper settings.
http://freepctech.com/pc/001/installing_ide_devices.shtml
its not an ide, its parallel ATA. i only have ONE optical drive connected to the computer. i possiby thought about reinstalling the BIOS, and maybe then it would catch it. i cannot test the drives on another computer, as all my other computers are IDE. and, they are not the slim-laptop style cd drives. there are also no jumper settings on the drive, nor the HDD either. i understand your thinking its a jumper problem, because 90% of the time it is, but in this case, it doesn't have any that are settable.How about your Toshiba Cd- drive? Do they have the same connector with your Dell CD-drive?
yes, and when i plug it into my computer, it acts exactly the same as the Toshiba. QUOTE from: bil_drk on July 16, 2010, 06:35:40 PM

its not an ide, its parallel ATA....

Computer is an eMachines D3415
FIC Motherboard No. K8MC51G Version PCB 1.x
Phoenix Award BIOS Version 6.00PG Release NAA19EM
RAM 1-1024MB 400MHz DDR400 PC3200, 184p DIMM, 2.5v, Sync, CL=3
AMD Semprom processor 3400+ 2.01 GHz
Hard Drive Seagate Model ST3160021A Size 160.0 GB
Sound Device Realtek AC'97 Audio
Video Adapter NVIDIA GeForce 6100
Windows XP Home Edition Version 2002 SP2
Running AVG 9.0 Free Antivirus software

The machine has two memory slots and will accomodate a maximum of 2GB according to eMachines documentation.

I recently purchased two 1GB RAM sticks of the above SPECIFICATION from Arch Memory guaranteed to work in this make and model computer to upgrade from the one 512MB stick that came with the system.  With both new sticks installed, the machines freezes on boot with the monitor displaying thin vertical colored lines on a black background.  I've made as certain as I can that both slots are free of dust and that both sticks are seated securely.  Also, the machine boots and runs without any problem with just one stick installed.  This is true of either stick installed in either slot.  I have run Memtest-86 Version 3.5 on each stick separately (one complete pass) and found no errors.

The person at Arch Memory I talked to suggested updating the BIOS to see if that would solve the problem.  There is one update available:  NAA24EM.  However, both eMachines and FIC (the motherboard maker) do not recommend flashing the BIOS due to the risks involved unless one is certain it will solve the problem.  That is not the case at this time.

Also, the System Properties box in Windows XP shows 128MB less RAM than is installed.  I assume this 128MB is allocated to MMIO.

What I would like to know is if the problem with booting the system with both RAM sticks installed is due to the BIOS needing the update, the MMIO allocation, a setting in CMOS, or something else?

Any help getting the 2GB working will be appreciated.

Below is more information on my system from "System Information for Windows" © Gabriel Topala:

MOTHERBOARD
Manufacturer   First International Computer, Inc.
Model   K8MC51G
Version   PCB 1.x
Serial Number   C565C40260
   
North Bridge   NVIDIA GeForce 6100 Revision A2
South Bridge   NVIDIA nForce 410/430 MCP Revision A2
   
CPU   AMD Sempron(tm) Processor 3400+
Cpu Socket   Socket 754
   
System Slots   2 PCI
   
Memory Summary   
Maximum Capacity   8192 MBytes
Maximum Memory Module Size   4096 MBytes
Memory Slots   2
Error Correction   None
   
Warning!   Accuracy of DMI data cannot be guaranteed


---------------------------------------

BIOS
BIOS Vendor   Phoenix Technologies, LTD
Serial Number   CCA5-C
BIOS Version   6.00 PG
Firmware Version   111.101
BIOS Date   11/11/2005
BIOS Size   512 KB
BIOS Starting Segment   E000h
DMI Version   2.3
Characteristics   - supports ISA
   - supports PCI
   - supports Plug-and-Play
   - supports APM
   - upgradeable (Flash) BIOS
   - allows BIOS shadowing
   - supports booting from CD-ROM
   - supports selectable boot
   - BIOS ROM is socketed
   - supports Enhanced Disk Drive specification
   - supports INT 13 5.25-inch/360K floppy services
   - supports INT 13 5.25-inch/1.2M floppy services
   - supports INT 13 3.5-inch/720K floppy services
   - supports INT 13 3.5-inch/2.88M floppy services
   - supports INT 05 print-screen
   - supports INT 09 and 8042 keyboard services
   - supports INT 14 serial services
   - supports INT 17 printer services
   - supports INT 10 CGA/Mono video services
   - supports ACPI
   - supports legacy USB
   - supports booting from LS-120
   - supports booting from ATAPI ZIP drive
   - BIOS Boot Specification supported

-------------------------------------

CPU
Number of Logical Processors   1
Number of Physical Processors   1
CPU #1   AMD Sempron 3400+
CPU Name   AMD Sempron(tm) Processor 3400+
CPU Code Name   Palermo
Vendor   AuthenticAMD
Number of Bits   64
Instruction Set   MMX (+), 3DNow! (+), SSE, SSE2, SSE3, x86-64, NX
Platform Name   Socket 754
Revision   DH-E6
Technology   90 nm
ORIGINAL Clock   2000 MHz
Original System Clock   200 MHz
Original Multiplier   10.0
CPU Clock   2009 MHz
System Clock   200.9 MHz
HT Link   803.7 MHz
Number of Cores   1
Core #1
Speed   2009.4 MHz
Multiplier   10.0
Virtual Technology Supported   No
Hyper Threading Supported   No
Cache
L1 Data Cache   64 KBytes
L1 Instructions Cache   64 KBytes
L2 Cache   256 KBytes

-------------------------------

MEMORY
Maximum Capacity   8192 MBytes
Maximum Memory Module Size   4096 MBytes
Memory Slots   2
Error Correction   None
DRAM Frequency   200.9 MHz
Memory Timings   3-3-3-8 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS)
Device Locator   Slot 1
Capacity   1024 MBytes
Memory Type   DDR (PC3200)
Speed   200 MHz
Supported Frequencies   133.3 MHz, 166.7 MHz, 200.0 MHz
Memory Timings   2-2-2-6-0 at 133.3 MHz, at 2.5 volts (CL-RCD-RP-RAS-RC)
Memory Timings   2-3-3-7-0 at 166.7 MHz, at 2.5 volts (CL-RCD-RP-RAS-RC)
Memory Timings   3-3-3-8-0 at 200.0 MHz, at 2.5 volts (CL-RCD-RP-RAS-RC)
Data Width   64 bits
EPP SPD Support   No
XMP SPD Support   No

----------------------------

STORAGE DEVICES
Disk 0
Manufacturer   Seagate
Model   ST3160021A
Size   160.0 GB
Firmware Version   8.01
Serial Number   5JS8EGJM
Interface   Parallel ATA
Standard   ATA/ATAPI-6 | ATA/ATAPI-6 T13 1410D version 2
Transfer Mode (Current / Max)   ULTRA DMA-100 / Ultra DMA-100
Features   S.M.A.R.T., 48bit LBA
Temperature   39 C (102 F)
Drive Letter(s)   C: D:
Controller Buffer Size on Drive   2048 KB
Removable   No
Cache Enabled (Read / Write)   Yes / Yes
SMART Support   Yes
Attribute Name   Attribute Value               Worst Value                   Threshold Value               Raw Data
Raw Read Error Rate (01)             064                                   052                                   006                         

000006ED4971
Spin Up Time (03)             096                                   096                                   000                         

000000000000
Start/Stop Count (04)             100                                   100                                   020                         

000000000039
Reallocated Sector Count (05)             100                                   100                                   036                         

000000000000
Seek Error Rate (07)             089                                   060                                   030                         

0000302F94FB
Power On Hours Count (09)             060                                   060                                   000                         

000000008A93
Spin Retry Count (0A)             100                                   100                                   097                         

000000000000
Power Cycle Count (0C)             100                                   100                                   020                         

0000000002D3
HDA Temperature (C2)             039                                   049                                   000                         

000000000027
ECC On The Fly Count (C3)             064                                   051                                   000                         

000006ED4971
Current pending sector count (C5)             100                                   100                                   000           

              000000000000
Off-line uncorrectable sector count (C6)             100                                   100                                   000           

              000000000000
Ultra ATA CRC Error Rate (C7)             200                                   200                                   000           

              000000000000
Multi Zone Error Rate (C8)             100                                   253                                   000                         

000000000000
Data Address Mark Errors (CA)             100                                   253                                   000           

              000000000000
Disk 1
Manufacturer   Generic
Model   Generic USB SD Reader USB Device
Firmware Version   1.00
Removable   Yes
SMART Support   No
Disk 2
Manufacturer   Generic
Model   Generic USB CF Reader USB Device
Firmware Version   1.01
Removable   Yes
SMART Support   No
Disk 3
Manufacturer   Generic
Model   Generic USB SM Reader USB Device
Firmware Version   1.02
Removable   Yes
SMART Support   No
Disk 4
Manufacturer   Generic
Model   Generic USB MS Reader USB Device
Firmware Version   1.03
Removable   Yes
SMART Support   No
DVD Writer 0
Manufacturer   [unknown]
Model   ATAPI iHAP322 8 (ATAPI iHAP322
Firmware Version   UL14
Interface   Parallel ATA
Standard   ATA8-ACS | ----
Transfer Mode (Current / Max)   Ultra DMA-66 / Ultra DMA-66
Drive Letter(s)   E:
Controller Buffer Size on Drive   2048 KB
Removable   Yes
Capabilities
CD Reader   CD-ROM, CD-R, CD-RW
CD Writer   CD-R, CD-RW
DVD Reader   DVD-ROM, DVD-R, DVD-RW, DVD-RAM
DVD Writer   DVD-R, DVD-RW, DVD-RAM
SMART Support   No

---------------------------

LOGICAL DISKS
Drive   Drive Type   Bus Type   File System   Total Size   Used Space   Free

Space   % Free
C:\   Local Disk   ATA   NTFS 3.1   144.7 (GB)   38.9 (GB)   105.7 (GB)   

73 %
D:\   (RECOVERY)   Local Disk   ATA   FAT32   4399 (MB)   1618 (MB)   

2781 (MB)   63 %
E:\   DVD   ATAPI               
F:\   Removable Disk   USB               
G:\   Removable Disk   USB               
H:\   Removable Disk   USB               
I:\   Removable Disk   USB               


---------------------------

SOUND DEVICES
Realtek AC'97 Audio
Name   Realtek AC'97 Audio
Manufacturer   Realtek
Device ID   PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_026B&SUBSYS_60061509&REV_A2\3&2411E6FE&0&82
PnP Device Id   PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_026B&SUBSYS_60061509&REV_A2\3&2411E6FE&0&82



---------------------------

VIDEO
Video Adapter   NVIDIA GeForce 6100
Code Name   C51
Video Processor   GeForce 6100
Technology   90 nm
Adapter DAC Type   Integrated RAMDAC
PCI ID   0x10DE / 0x0242 (Nvidia Corp / GeForce 6100)
PCI sub ID   0x1509 / 0x6006 (First International Computer Inc)
Memory   256 MBytes
BIOS String   Version  5.51.22.26.00
BIOS Date   10/25/05
PnP Device Id   PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_0242&SUBSYS_60061509&REV_A2\3&2411E6FE&0&28
Video Mode Description   1024 x 768 x 4294967296 colors
Driver Version   6.14.10.8133
Driver Date   2005-09-18 16:32:00
DirectX   DirectX 9.0
Driver Name   nv4_disp.dll
Driver Description   NVIDIA GeForce 6100
Monitor   Plug and Play Monitor
Model   e15t4
Monitor ID   EMA061C
Manufacturing Date   2005, Week 51
PnP Device Id   DISPLAY\EMA061C\4&F46A33A&0&22446688&00&05
Input   Analog Input Voltage - 0.700V/0.300V
Serial Number   35C 50H 07203
Display Size   14.9" (30 cm x 23 cm)
Horizontal Frequency   30-60 kHz
Vertical Frequency   56-76 Hz
Current Resolution   1024 x 768 75Hz
Supported Resolution   1024 x 768 75Hz - Aspect Ratio 4:3
EDID Version   1 revision 3
Max dot clock (video bandwidth)   80 MHz
DPMS Mode Support   Active Off, Suspend, Standby
Flashing the BIOS is always dangerous. But companies over stress on it. You have a 95% of a successful flash, so I'd say go for it. If it fails, it's not the end of the world. You can purchase a new motherboard for your computer for only ~$30. Or you could just buy it right away =P Quote from: dwegiel on July 12, 2010, 09:35:01 PM

Flashing the BIOS is always dangerous. But companies over stress on it. You have a 95% of a successful flash, so I'd say go for it. If it fails, it's not the end of the world. You can purchase a new motherboard for your computer for only ~$30. Or you could just buy it right away =P

Are the memory modules identical, right down to the chip count & the part numbers on the chips?

Try pairing your old 512MB with one new 1024MB.

whats the max amount of memory the motherboard supports?

According to eMachines, 2GB.

One of my computers (not e-Machines) does the same thing.  It's also uses DDR, dual-channel in 4 slots.  Manufacturer says it supports 4GB, only sees 2.75GB; never got a satisfactory answer, never could figure out why.

I have two hard drive's one is 250g's and the other is 80g's i INSTALLED Jolicloud OS on the (empty) 80g hard drive. Using Jolicloud was fun but now i need the 80g hard drive for something else. So i try uninstalling it. But when i tried removing the OS with my Windows 7 OS from the Remove software in the control PANEL it tells me that the drive is unaccesseble the basically mean's it cant access the 80g hard drive so i look under my computer and it's not showing the 80g hard drive.

Why isn't it there?

ThanksClick start then search and type in diskmgmt.msc and press enter. This will open disk management. In disk management delete the 80 gig partition then create and format a new partition on the hard drive. Quote from: JJ 3000 on July 14, 2010, 12:48:12 AM

Click start then search and type in diskmgmt.msc and press enter. This will open disk management. In disk management delete the 80 gig partition then create and format a new partition on the hard drive.

Boot to the windows DVD and choose startup repair.

You installed Windows or Jolicloud via usb?

ok so I got this computer from a friend and I reinstalled the os . It worked fine yesterday. Today I pulled out the 40 GB hdd from my older box and unpluged the dvd burner and pluged the hdd in to get all the music and data onto my new used computer. And I start it up and the computer turns on then off, and the POWER led is flashing, then I pulled out the 40 Gb and it started but i get the error below:

hardware monitor found an error. Enter pwer setup menu for details.

ok so i loaded setup defaults. nothing using the CMOS jumper I reset it, Nothing. Then I let it for a few min to get my laptop to write this out. Works fine. So I connected the hdd again error!? Is my power supply dying? Or is it the fact that I'm connecting the secondary hdd through the CD writer? What do you think. Any ideas?

My system has

1.5 GHz processor
384 Mb RAM (came with 256 only)
60 GB hdd
cd writed
DVD writer
power supply output 250 watt input not sure
64 mb graphics card
running windows XP SP2
sorry almost forgot the motherboard is an asus P4BDid you reset the pins on the "old hdd" to slave--it may have been "master " in it's previous computer? truenorthit's set to cable selectOccasionally there can be a problem with the cable select setting when it is going to be a slave. Just to rule it out please set it to slave and try it and report. truenorthit doing it again, it starts up and shuts down with the power light flashing. i noticed something thought the cord from the power supply that has 4 pins forming a SQUARE isn't there. there isn't one on the power supply. when i reset the CMos maybe the bios thinks its missing that. i mean it started with out the secondary hdd. Can you confirm what i believe your saying--you can and have connected the "old" hdd to the ide ribbon cable but that you DO NOT have the ability to connect a power connection to it. Is that correct? truenorthok the old hdd I connected using the dvd burner cables power and ide but the computer turns on then off and the light flashes on,  off as if there wasn't enough power for that hddOK let's try a different TACK based on some knowledge and an assumption. The old hdd was probably a master on it's previous computer. The location on the current computer could also have been a master serving the DVD  unit which has been removed. It could have been if it was on a separate IDE cable from the hdd that is still there. It would have been a secondary master if such was the case. So if you have not already done so--and no indication shows that you have--i would still try 1st setting it to slave and see what happens. If that doesn't work and it is indeed on it's own ide cable by itself try setting it to master. The fact that it is deriving it's power from the previous power plug to the DVD should not be a factor. I have a problem with the type of power plug you are describing. I am not aware of ANY IDE devices (optical or HDD) that connect with a 4 pin "the power supply that has 4 pins forming a square". The connector going into the back of the drive on an IDE device does have 4 FEMALE (not pins) plugs but not forming a square. They are in-line.truenorthno no im sorry for no explaining, the power connector usually connects to the main board, which it this case it doesn't but on the other one it did. You what I'm thinking I did was yesterday I pulled out the powersupply heatsink, fan and CPU to clean it from dust, reseting the CPU and the setting in the bios that told the computer that it doesn't need that cord if it has the regular long one connected the one like the power cord the hdd has to the mainboard. I mean why else would the computer go to hibernation, thats what it looks like it shuts off but the power light is still blinking. And the dvd was set to master and cd write to slave. Maybe If i used the ide cable that connects the master hdd instead of the DVD burner cable. it seems that error comes up each time I plug something it or uplug something. What do you think. Look I'm not saying your wrong or right I really appreciate your help and I think were getting somewere. I want to ask What are u trying to say in the second sentence?

Hi,

I often watch movies in my ROOM on my computer. However, since my bed is far AWAY from my computer, I need a bigger screen. I am debating between buying an HD TV (maybe 32") or a large computer screen (23 or 25 inches).

What would the main advantages of the TV over the computer screen be? Is it really worth it?

Thanks!The TV is a multi function media device the monitor is limited to it's function by it's connection to a computer. Prior to buying your TV take note of the connection options on it and also on your computer sound and video cards to ensure compatibility of cable connections. truenorth Quote from: truenorth on July 16, 2010, 11:31:33 AM

The TV is a multi function media device the monitor is limited to it's function by it's connection to a computer. Prior to buying your TV take note of the connection options on it and also on your computer sound and video cards to ensure compatibility of cable connections. truenorth

The issue is probably not being caused by the HDD...

A less serious issue has been found in certain revisions of Western Digital's popular Green Power series. In fact, the issue is less a bug than a feature that doesn't play well with certain computing environments. Nevertheless, the problem has developed a massive discussion thread in the SPCR forums, so we feel compelled to speak about what we know of the issue.

The problem is this: The Green Power is designed and marketed as a "green" drive, where power efficiency is the primary engineering concern. As part of this concern, the drive is designed to unload the read/write heads after approximately 8 seconds of inactivity. That in itself is not a bad thing — in fact, it's a COMMON attribute of notebook drives, which have different reasons for saving power (BATTERY life). However, certain software (notably, SpeedFan and some distributions of Linux) can cause issues because they access the drive regularly every 10 seconds or every minute or so. This causes a cycle of rapid loading and unloading that is stressful to the drive — far more stressful than "ordinary" use in which the drive is either working steadily or completely idle.
http://www.silentpcreview.com/Terabyte_Drive_Fix

I’m working on a friend’s laptop: Toshiba, Satellite M65 - S9092

Original problem: The laptop started shutting down after few minutes of use. (Probable overheating)

Took the laptop apart and clean it out. The heatsink, fan and outlets were really plugged up. Put it back together and did a clean re-install, Windows XP. Had few issues with USB drivers not being recognized but worked it out. Ran stress test for a whole day, no problem.

Worked for few days and then USB wasn’t being recognized again and the screen started freezing up. Re-installed os again but it is still freezing up after few minutes, and stays that way till hard shut down.

Screen freezes even in safe mode and in BIOS. (No blue screens)
Switched existing RAM’s around (2 - 512MB), one stick, two sticks, etc…still freezing up. Wanted to upgrade the BIOS but can’t get pass the screen freezing. Not sure if the motherboard may be shot from previous overheating or need new RAM.
Don’t want to spend money till I’m sure I’m replacing the right part.

Any assistance is appreciated.
Where did the Drivers come from ? ?
The original Driver CD ? ?

The chipset drivers need to be installed 1st...

Do NOT rely on Windows to install the correct drivers...visit the manuf. site for best results...Thanks for the reply.
First time from original CD, second from manufacturer. Unfortunately at this point it freezes before I can install any new drivers or update BIOS. Any thoughts whether new re-install would be worth it or any other options.
Can you work in safemode ? ?
To enter safemode tap F8 repeatedly on start and before the WQin splash screen...

As opposed to a re-install there is another option

Repair Install of XP...No, as I mention in the heading it freezes in safe mode and when I’m in BIOS.
I have tried going in safe mode numerous times, I can get in to a point but so far every time I start trying something it freezes. Same in BIOS, I can change few setting but before I can complete anything it freezes.
Try it with the battery removed and the laptop only on mains...I tried it before same result.

Just tried it again, this time couple of different things happened.

1 – It took longer before it started freezing up
2 – At times the pointer froze but the tab, windows key, enter and direction keys functioned and opened files. (even downloaded few os updates)
3 – After about 10 minutes of running the pointer and the keys froze at the same time, it was freezing on and off
4 – After about 15-20 minutes everything is frozen and none responsive

It's one of those problems that I never ran into, especially when it freezes in BIOS.
If it freezes loading the BIOS with the battery removed then it's almost certainly a power supply issue...
You have to decise whether it's worth the money to replace it...

I could be wrong on this diagnosis so wait for others to chime in on this...But i believe that's the issue...Check also for any bad connectors that needed to be replaced. Connectors connecting to and from motherboard.  I have the EXACT same problem with my toshiba a135. Coincidence? Toshiba sucks. Mine overheated past 90*C and freezes now, like yours.. And the computer was cleaned the day before. All connectors are plugged in right. I can operate it for 40+ minutes with a PCMCIA USB card and USB mouse and keybaord. But without it, it freezes like yours with static coming out from the speakers...Additional info on the progress:

I tried doing a clean boot but unfortunately I can’t get far enough before the screen freezes.

Later I ran the MEMTEST 86+ and got the following results. (without the battery in the laptop)

It didn’t run the test. The screen was incomplete/partial.
After the line Setting: RAM, the rest of info was blank and incomplete
Line with 88k, e820 and off was VISIBLE, which is for: “RsvdMem” “MemMap” and “ECC”
Also under “memory spd information” everything was blank
Tested each ram module in every slot. The + icon was blinking, screen didn't freeze.
I ran the same memtest 86+ CD on two other COMPUTERS and it ran fine.

I picked up a PC diagnostic card and got this far:
The BIOS are Phoenix, but I can’t get far enough to find out which version.
When I started the laptop multiple times the initial readout on the PC diagnostics card is: 9d55

9D55
9d - Initialize SECURITY engine (optional)
55 - Enable USB devices
After the boot cycles pressing S1 the readout are (multiple starts with freezing):
5755 – 569d – 55CC - 588A
55 - Enable USB devices
56 - Enable keyboard
57 - Test for unexpected interrupts
58 - Test for unexpected interrupts
9D - Initialize security engine (optional)
8A - Initialize extended BIOS data area
CC - Redirect Int 10h to enable remote serial video
http://www.bioscentral.com/postcodes/phoenixbios.htm

The test may be inconclusive because of freezing but any thoughts on the post code results

Hello,

SUDDENLY, I am UNABLE to print. I get the above error message. I am using Windows VISTA Home Premium Edition and a Toshiba SATELLITE L505 Laptop and a BROTHERS HL1440 Printer.

Need Help.

Thank you.

Hello All

I am not sure if anyone else has brought up this subject. My fan on my laptop has died and I can remove all the screws but 3 as the holes in the cover are stripped and they are also recessed. Does anyone have any ideas on how to get them out.

Thanks in advance.

Kevincan you turn them?

You can try Mr. Superglue on the end of a small pole or wire.

Look up "easy outs"...
Although they may not make them that small...

Another testament to the old adage' laptops are not user servicable...Spoiler

Yes I can turn them. I give the super glue method a try. thanks.

Patio

thanks for the additional info

if anyone has any other method, then let me know

thanks in advance

KevinBTW...Welcome to CH ! !Given your comment re "recessed" this solution mat be very difficult or EVEN impossible but it is one i have used successfully on a number of occasions. If the ability exists to insert a suitably small enough sharp flat tool (LIKE a sharpened screwdriver) underneath the screw (below the head of the screw) and create upward FORCE and at the same time using the proper screw driver for the screw try to unscrew it. This suggestion is based on the thread of the screw being what is stripped and not the head of the screw. truenorththis is no different from removing a stripped screw from anything else, just be carefulIt kind of is.  Just because the screws are so small.  Dremmel may have some "easy out" type kits, but I couldn't find them on-line.not really, i don't care how big/small the screws are, the principle of it is the same...The alternative used by pros is to  drive out the screw with a very small drill and bit. Ask your dentist how he does this on crowns that are held with a screw.I too have used the "drill out" method. But in this case due to the application i was loath to suggest it as 2 possible (maybe more)adverse consequences could result.
1.If only the thread of the screw is currently stripped the drilling would more than likely ruin the female thread as well rendering futher use impossible.
2.I would be concerned where the minute filings from the drilling would end up inside the computer.
3.If "easy outs are available CERTAINLY that is also a possibility as others have suggested.
  If my earlier suggestion is possible it TENDS to be the least likely for further damage.truenorth

To all PC Experts: I have upgraded the RAM of my LG laptop (model LW70 Express whose specs are as follows: Processor = Intel Pentium M 760, Code name Dothan, brand ID=22, Speed=2.00 Ghz; Motherboard = LG Electronics model Hunter, Chipset=Intel i915PM/GM, Rev 03, Southbridge=Intel 82801FBM (ICH6-M); RAM = 2 x 512 MB, DDR2, PC2-4300, 266 MHZ) with the following specs: 2 x 1 GB, DDR2, PC2-5300, 667 MHZ, (as per advice of Crucial Scan). HOWEVER, after upgrading the RAM and checking it with CPU-Z, I found out that the speed of the NEW RAM is only 333 MHZ. Is this correct? If not, what should I do to correct or get the right speed of the new RAM (667 MHZ)? Is there in the BIOS required to be tweaked to get the correct speed? Please enlighten me about this and give me technical advice. Thank you very much.The RAM will only run at the speed at which the motherboard is designed for. For example, if the RAM slots on the motherboard are designed to run at 333MHz and you put in the sticks that are capable of 667MHz, it will only run at 333MHz since that's what the slots are only capable of handling. Is that what you were asking or am I misunderstanding your post? Thanks!Seems to me like a misunderstanding of CPU-Z's readings.
CPU-Z reads the actual clock speed of the RAM which is in fact 333MHz - DDR2 transfers data twice per cycle, making the effective clock 667MHz.  The second figure is always what is sued in advertising as it's bigger "sued" ? ?

Just bustin yer chops Calum.... Me THINKS  "what is sued"= what is used.truenorthAh, my bad ... to the sin bin I go.Nah! Save that trip for something really serious.truenorthTo all PC experts who gave their technical comments on my RAM question, thank you very much. Your technical explanation is very much appreciated. Regards.You're welcome, glad to help.

I THINK my "Windows Auto PLAY" is DISSABLED on my computer, where would I find it on my computer to ENABLE it again?http://www.ehow.com/how_5147384_enable-autoplay.html

Had problems with my computer, BROUGHT it into the shop to be repaired, works GREAT now but my card reader won't work. Before I brought it into the shop when I plugged my card reader in a "windows atuo play" box would open giving me options on how to open my pictures, now when I plug it in, NOTHING happens. Could my auto play have gotten disabled somehow, if so, do I need to download a new auto play, or is it still on my computer and I just have to enable it again. Not sure what to do, can someone help.........If i plug my card reader into my sons computer the auto box opens and i can veiw all my pictures.
Can you still access the content of the card reader when it is plugged in via the icon for it in my computer. If yes then with the device plugged in with content on it -go to my computer right click on the icon for the card reader--select PROPERTIES--select "auto play--then make your selections as appropriate from the list. You can use the prompt option so you will be PROMPTED each time to play or you can deselect it and it should play each time it is inserted with content. Hope this solves your problem,truenorth

have a 1200 SERIES gateway  bios screen flashes on and off every second.nothing happens when f buttons pushed or held down,CHANGED comos battery,changed MEMORY,hard drive, systems hard drive [linux and windows],cd/dvd,same result,have COMPLETE teardown and reassembly, same result !!!! jeffGiven all the things you have done or changed it is Nye unto impossible to point to any one THING that could be causing your issue. The general concept is to install only the very basic things into it then add the remaining one at a time and see the progress (or lack of). However i would try removing all but one ram stick (assuming more than one is installed). If that doesn't get things running try different sticks and slots. Then go to my previous suggestion. I am wondering what caused you to do all this stuff in the 1st place and what you had done immediately prior to that IE: adding software and/or hardware? truenorth

i have recently formatted my laptop its RUNING win xp pro sp3 and it will free very badly and not respond... i have the laptop on a cooler pad with a FAN IM just looking on any ADVISE on it freeing ... i personaly think its dying slowly due to age What does that mean ("it will free very badly....")?*it will freeze* it will just crash some time on the first boot screen, or just after it has loaded in to windows What happens in safe mode?the same and some times i cant get in to it :/Well, if it freezes on safe mode I'm guessing you're correct - it is a hardware issue - perhaps overheating. Hardware in general and laptops in particular are not my strengths. Hang around and let's see if someone else has any thoughts.

So my 3 yr old decided to put a toy on the keyboard and walked into the other ROOM.  I came back and my MONITOR was showing a screen still lit up but no picture just LIGHT colors with lines and no picture.  I turned off the computer and turned it back on but I got the same response.  Any idea how I would fix this?

Kristin


Its a DELL DIMENSION 4600 desktop

Hi:

I just got a  new (used) 24" Benq monitor with vga, dvi and hdmi connectors.  It works fine by vga.  But when I plug the hdmi in, I GET a "cable not connected" error and no IMAGE.  Same thing when I plug it into my laptop that has hdmi.  I'm running win7.  So I'm wondering if the hdmi connection is defective.  Or, maybe the hdmi ports are for output only to a tv or SOMETHING?  Any thoughts?HDMI or DVI?I'm trying the hdmi.  I don't have dvi ports on my pcs.I never heard of CONNECTING a display via hdmi.Well then, the hdmi must be for ouput only to tv or something?  Not for connecting the monitor, right?YesThanks.yep

I have read several reviews and have COME to the conclusion that radeon 4770HD will be a better choice in terms of performance. My PC has D945GCNL mother board with a PCI x16 slot. The thing which BUGS me is that, i am concerned whether radeon cards are more long lasting and robust than the nvidia cards, keeping in mind the hot and humid climate of Karachi, Pakistan. Will the Radeon card fulfill my non stop, 5 hours continuous gaming sessions, without making any special arrangements for cooling, like modifying my computer casing or turning on the Air conditioning while playing? PLEASE DO REPLY.........They both come with WARRANTIES. Quote from: ahsan303 on July 17, 2010, 03:45:48 PM

I know they have warranties, but its only for a year or so, i want to know, of the two, which is a more reliable hardware..........

i dont know if i posted this in the right place but what the hey.

I have a gigabyte ma785gm-us2h motherboard.. and my case is a Apevia x-supra g-type... i have connected all my cords to everything...except for the Front panel connectors IM having a issues the cords on the case are different color to the ones indicated in the Manual for the motherboard.

they are colored like so.

in Manual Msg, POWER, sleep LED is said to be yellow, on the case yellow is the speakers and has 3 prongs instead of 2.
in Manual red is the power switch, on the case red is the HD led
in Manual orange is speakers, on the case orange is the power switch
in the Manual HD led is Blue, on the case blue is the RESET switch
In the Manual Reset switch is Green on the case green is the power led.

they dont match and i cant get them to work and its mind BOGGLING >.< plz help.If you can't match the colors, match the function.  There is no standard color scheme for these connections.  Sometimes the case wires will have LITTLE labels on the connector.

Im working on my mates PC it has a dvd  drive and a cd drive, they come up in the bios and when i boot in to the computer and i go to my computer they do not show up :S this is a PROBLEM and ideas why they are not showing up in my computer . system win xp pro sp3, 512 ram  i have sorted it now ... my mate said they was no errors in device manager, i just dubble check and for the warning signs on the disk drives ... (sorry if im spaming/ bumping my own topic i just thought i would  say no need to answer this one any more   Post the solution and you will be exonorated for your apology...

            Quote from: patio on July 13, 2010, 04:50:06 PM

be exonorated

Windows cannot start this hardware device because its CONFIGURATION information (in the registry) is incomplete or damaged. To fix this problem you can first try running a Troubleshooting Wizard. If that does not work, you should uninstall and then reinstall the hardware device. (Code 19)
Recommended resolutions

A registry problem was detected.

This can occur when more than one service is DEFINED for a device, if there is a failure opening the service subkey, or if the driver name cannot be obtained from the service subkey. Here are some things that you can try to resolve this problem.

Uninstall and reinstall the driver

Uninstall the driver from Device Manager and scan for new hardware to install the driver again.

You may be prompted to provide the path of the driver. Windows may have the driver built-in, or may still have the driver files installed from the last time that you set up the device. However, sometimes, it will open the New Hardware Wizard which may ask for the driver. If you are asked for the driver and you do not have it, you can try to download the latest driver from the hardware vendor’s Web site.
On the device Properties dialog box, click the Driver tab, and then click Uninstall. Follow the instructions.
Restart your computer.
Open Device Manager, click Action, and then click Scan for hardware changes. Follow the instructions.
Revert to the most recent successful registry configuration

This content is designed for an advanced computer user.

The Last KNOWN Good Configuration feature is a recovery option that you can use to start your computer by using the most recent settings that worked. The Last Known Good Configuration feature restores all the registry information and driver settings that were in effect the last time that the computer started successfully.

For more information about the Last Known Good Configuration feature, click the following article number to view the article in the Microsoft Knowledge Base:
307852  (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/307852/ ) How to start your computer by using the Last Known Good Configuration feature in Windows XP
Edit the registry

This content is designed for an advanced computer user.

As a last resort, you can edit the registry directly. For more information, see the Registry Reference in the Microsoft Windows 2000 Server Resource Kit at the following Microsoft Web site:
http://www.microsoft.com/technet/prodtechnol/windows2000serv/reskit/default.mspx?mfr=true (http://www.microsoft.com/technet/prodtechnol/windows2000serv/reskit/default.mspx?mfr=true)
The registry information applies to Windows XP.

my HP Deskjet 3740 only PRINTS headings.  It will not print TEXT or from notepad

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Why_does_your_printer_only_print_the_company_logo_with_colours_etc_but_will_not_print_the_information_below_that_heading
truenorthyes I had seen that answer but I don't see any place to doing ANYTHING about text.  I have my desk top back up so I may forget using the netbook for PRINTING

I recently bought a new computer about 2months ago.

Everything has been working 100% and I've had absolutely nothing to complain about. A week ago I bought a new chassis for my pc since my old one was as cheap as I could get. Then this problem started.

My computer starts up fine and then after a while it just switches off and warning beeps start. This problem is not consistent and it isn't limited to just certain applications - the computer can be idling and it will still cut out. Most of the time if I switch it off for a second at the wall or simply hit the reset button it will start up again. If I start it up directly after a crash then it normally crashes very quickly again. The components run at OPTIMAL temperatures.

I took a look on the Intel website to check what the beeps mean. I get 8 system beeps when I start up. This is the page: http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/sb/cs-010249.htm According to this 8 beeps idicate display memory read/ write error. How is this possible? Everything is brand new.

I have taken out the graphics card and dusted it. I put it back in - power is connected - and problem persists.

My pC:

Intel DH55TC Motherboard
Intel I5 750 2.66Ghz
2x Kingston valueselect DDR3 1333Mghz 1GB RAM
Leadtek GTS 250 512mb
Seagate 250GB .11 series HDD
Samsung super multi 22x DVD writer

Chassis : Cooler Master Cavalier 3

Os: WINDOWS 7 ultimate 64bit

Screen: Samsung B2030Well your statement is  "everything is brand new" =true= but NOT original. You changed the chassis=case i assume. In order to take all the hardware from your "new" computer and install it in your "new" case 2 things have happened.
1. You removed everything= possible DAMAGE to a component.
2.you had to install everything into your new case=
a)improper or faulty installation
b) damage to a component
So this ought to give you some idea what you need to do=recheck everything again.truenorth Quote from: JacoG7 on July 09, 2010, 03:24:39 AM

...I have taken out the graphics card and dusted it. I put it back in - power is connected - and problem persists.

Leadtek GTS 250 512mb

Hello all,

I've had my lenovo SL300 for about 1 and 1/2 year. The problem that I'm having now is when I use my SL300 for around 30mins and the computer gets hot and a part of the screen starts flashing (please see the picture below for more details). Any suggestion with this problem? Thank you!

A component is overheating and causing the issue you show.  There is NOTHING you can do to fix it yourself.  I assume the warranty ran out?sorry, that sucks Quote from: Computer_Commando on July 16, 2010, 08:08:55 PM

A component is overheating and causing the issue you show.  There is nothing you can do to fix it yourself.  I assume the warranty ran out?

Yeah, it just ran out. What component is it? How much would it cost to fix it? Thank you!

My video card is dedicated. It is NVIDIA Geforce 9300gs (notebook). How much would it cost?...

Hi experts and guru's.
Toshiba Satellite L355D-S7813
Model# PSLE0U-00R00J (those are all zeroes)

Opened laptop from hibernation this a.m. and noticed the low battery indication was at 8% remaining and flashing red, indicating that the battery was not charging. The AC icon was showing as plugged in, so the computer at least recognized the adapter but I was still getting the flashing red warning that the battery was not charging.

It soon dropped to 5% and then minutes later shut down. I assumed tghe AC adapter which I had just bought 3 months ago to replace the OEM one that went bad, also went bad. But it is putting out 18.5vdc which is within the output parameters of 15vdc - 24vdc.

Not knowing why this would make any sense, I pulled the battery and tried to power it up on the cord alone, but it would not power up. I double checked my readings on the adapter and it showed a solid 18.5vdc, so the problem is in the hardware.

I made sure the two small + inner pins inside the female portion of the connector are making contact with the male pin inside the female portion of the laptop AC port are mating and they are. I even spread the pins inward slightly with a JEWELER just to make sure.


Couple of months ago or so, I tripped across the power cord and BROKE the computer AC port inside the chassis and could not access it, so I had to disassemble it, epoxy the part back in place, and it has been working perfectly ever since.


I am going to disassemble and do a visual, but the port is still held fast, the plug is making good contact, and even the system tray icon as mentioned is recognizing the AC - but it is not charging the battery or supplying power to the computer.

Is this most likely a hardware or software issue? Could it be a virus even? I tried to restart in safe mode to run antimalwarebytes but halfway through power up it shut down again.

Thanks for any input. Kevin.







 You have bad connections somewhere.  Every laptop I am familiar with will function on the adapter with no battery.  The fact that the computer recognizes that the adapter is connected, only tells you it sees voltage present.  If the adapter is not supplying current, it won't charge the battery or run the computer.  You have to test the adapter with a load on it, which is not easy to do.  BTW, with the computer off and the adpater connected, the indicator lights should indicate state of charge.  I think your epoxy repair has let loose.  You can get replacement power plugs and solder them to the motherboard.  There are shops that specialize in this repair, since it's so common.I considered that the adapter is breaking down under load as well, but I don't have a way to check that.

I'm in the computer just now and my repair job has not failed. I believe you are correct, I think it is the Taurus Universal adapter - producing voltage but breaking down under the load. I SUPPOSE I could have tapped the output side and observed the voltage while under a load but it's too late now, the computer will not power up at all.

I suppose I'll drive the 90 miles to town and trade the Taurus for a new one, provided I can find the receipt. I don't suppose anyone knows where I put it? 

Anyway thanks CC. Quote from: K e v i n on April 11, 2010, 11:58:42 AM

I considered that the adapter is breaking down under load as well, but I don't have a way to check that...

That's a great idea with the 12v bulbs in series, didn't think of that. ..

Hi all

Well that's what Newegg said. I RMA'ed a bad ASUS P6X58D-E mobo back to Newegg and this is what they said:

Motherboard was received with apparent end-user caused physical damage to CPU socket contact pins.

Yikes. This is the 15th computer I have built and I don't usually make this sort of mistake. Could I have done this damage inadvertently?  What about the CPU? How do I go about checking the i7 930 for damage? Visual inspection only?

Any THOUGHTS?

Here is all the hardware:
ASUS P6X58D-E MB
Intel i7 930 CPU
CORSAIR CMPSU-850TX 850w PSU
A-DATA XPG Gaming SERIES 6GB (3 x 2GB) memory
ASUS CuCore Series EAH5770 Video Card
Scythe MUGEN SCMG-2100 Rev B Cooler
WD Caviar Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s
LITE-ON Black 24X 2MB Cache SATA DVD Writer
ASUS VW246H Glossy Black 24" 2ms(GTG) HDMI Widescreen LCD Monitor




Socket B, Flip Chip Land Grid Array

If you exceeded the mechanical load, I expect you would have been aware.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1366

They did a visual on the motherboard, you do a visual on the cpu.

You did not tell us anything about what led you to return the motherboard.

Thanks for your reply.

Well...a magnifying glass inspection showed that the CPU pad array had no mechanical damage. You can imagine that I felt a lot of relief over that discovery.

I don't know where to go from here. Do you think I could turn Newegg around?

I'm also not sure about a replacement MB. Any thoughts?
The link given by Computer_Commando indicates that damage is done to the CPU, not the socket. The socket would damage the CPU if it is overloaded. It takes 200 lbs of force to make the socket warp.Did you bang  with a hammer?
Ask new egg for more info about where  they get the INFORMATION. Hard too believe that you put 200 pounds on the CPU.

What did you use for a heat sink? A radiator from a truck?  Quote

I'm also not sure about a replacement MB. Any thoughts?

...Well...a magnifying glass inspection showed that the CPU pad array had no mechanical damage...I don't know where to go from here. Do you think I could turn Newegg around?...

Too late to ask Newegg for pictures, the motherboard is now in transit from Newegg. I will check it with a magnifying glass...

How To Install/Remove Intel Socket 1366 CPU and Heatsink

Too late...

Hey,it's urgent.... Plz can anybody tell, is there availability of Core2DUO CPU FAN cable for replacement???bcoz by mistake my cpu Fan cables got cut... some are skined....Any solutions are welcome........... Thanks in advanceSome suggested to replace entire unit of Fan and sink..... is there any alternative such replacing only cables....You could POSSIBLY replace/splice the cable but it WOULD be easier/safer to replace the fan - They are pretty cheap now.  If you wanted to SAVE some money you could just swap the fan on the heatsink.

when on a video SKYPE call is the video images stored on any temp files on the hard drive. If so how do you remove them to better the computers PERFORMANCE?No, they are STREAMED directly to your skype program, and not cached. To generate video files on the fly would use a lot of CPU time and case skyoe to have performance issues because of it.Thanks. Will need to LOOK at other things to clean out.

My computer is 1.0 GHz. speed, the BOX says !.3 GHz speed or higher. Will this work or should I return it Thanks I am not real computer savey.Yup it should work just FINE,  just you might not be able to burn at high speeds you WOULD have to choose a slower speed.

I use 4x or 6x for DVD's and 24x or 32x for CD"S, Plus LOWERS speeds give you better success rates.No reason to double Post...

Topic Closed.

Please see your other Topic for replies

patio.

My epson STYLUS sx415 PRINTER is MAKING sort of scratch marks all down photo paper when it prints, some are just a SOLID line and some are dotted. any ideas why its doing this? Ive only just bought this printer a few days ago, any help appreciated.Return it and replace it.truenorth

After clearing a paper jam, the printer lights up like a christmas tree indicating a general error "E". I'm convinced there is no paper RESIDUE left. However, I tried to take it apart to MAKE sure. I was unsuccessful with taking it apart. I know it will cost more to repair than purchase a NEW ONE. Any suggestions on taking it apart and verifying there is no paper residue or getting to the CAUSE of the general error? Help.
Assuming you have not damaged the printer in your "taking it apart" try the following in the order given:
1.Using the on/off switch on the printer turn it on and off  multiple times.
2.Unplug the printer from the power source and leave it unplugged for a couple of hours.
3.remove the software for the printer unplug it from power with your printer manual in hand follow EXACTLY the instructions to reinstall the printer.
good luck ,truenorth

My printer keeps switching itself off having not done any printing. Help!
Could you be a little more descriptive about what's happening..

So, the printer is in the MIDDLE of printing something and it stops, or completely powers off ?grandpa is right we need more info.are you GETTING any error messages on the digital screen on the printer--such as out of ink on any of the cartridges? truenorthThe age of the machine and when the problem started may help too.Thanks for quick replies

I do not get any error message except when windows loads, that tells me that the
spoolsrv.exemdm cannot initiate
The WRITING is on the wall here... the printer spooler service (spoolserv.exe) is not running the WAY it is suppose to which is required for the printing environment to work..It should be running by default..



I don't know if this will work but it's worth a try..Open a command prompt and type  services.msc .....give it a sec. and when the Services Manager comes up, scroll down to "printer spooler", right click on click "properties"..  Make SURE the "start up type" is set to "automatic", then click the "start" button to try to start the service... 

Over this past weekend I purchased a Lenovo H210 desktop from  a local computer dealer. The specs on the computer say it has an Intel Duo-Core 2.4 GHZ processor, 3 GB memory.  I was just setting it up for my wife and while loading programs, it seemed to run slower than I would have imagined. (It has Windows 7 Pro, no recovery disk). When I checked the Device Manager, for the processor it shows 2 icons, which I presumed would be a duo-core, but the description of each processor says: Intel Atom (TM) CPU 230 1.60 Ghz.

When I check the System Information under Accessories it shows the processor as an Intel(R) Atom (TM) CPU 230 1600 Ghz, 1596 Mhz, 1 core(s), 2 logical processors. The System Information also shows only 1.00 GB installed physical memory. I'm pretty clear on the memory part, but how far off are the specs on the processor(s)? I intend on TAKING it back, but want to be sure I know what I'm talking about.  There are a couples of other minor issues, but not deal breakers. 

Any help provided will be greatly appreciated.Look at the price at introduction in both of these links. This will give you a rough idea on how much you were ripped off. You were also ripped off on the RAM so expect it to be a little higher. I would return it immediately.

Quote

The specs on the computer say it has an Intel Duo-Core 2.4 Ghz processor.

When I check the System Information under Accessories it shows the processor as an Intel(R) Atom (TM) CPU 230 1600 Ghz

I don't know if there is any difference between a duo-core and a 2 duo core

What's his address ? ?

We have almost 50,000 Members and i can assemble a posse' on short notice.....

Just Kidding.....

I had a comment in a post elsewhere about my thoughts on installing some hot System Ram in my lappy. Part of the answer was REGARDING synchronous Ram. Is it still very relevant to current Chips?Not really.
RAM speeds generally don't have much real-world impact on performance, synchronous/asynchronous has even less.I'm not sure I follow Calum.   Ram speeds may not affect performance considerably, but Synchronous and Asynchronous are still relevant, unless I've gotten it wrong somewhere.   In traditional systems as many people still use, synchronous means that your ram and front side bus are running at the same speed, which is controlled by the fsb..  Asynchronous means that they are not running at the same speed (in traditional systems, in some cases if you increase your fsb speed, you might want to decrease the ram speed, if the board allows it)

In newer boards with the memory controller inside the cpu, the principle still applies somewhat..  The "base clock", in at least some newer systems has replaced the front side bus in traditional systems.  The base clock controls cpu speed, QPI, and ram and from what I've read in some of the board manuals ram speed can still be increased or throttled back, depending on how you want to set the base clock..    "Relevant" in terms of what?  I was meaning in terms of performance, you shouldn't see a drastic performance difference between having your RAM faster than the bus speed (or vice versa) or the same as it.
You can of course adjust RAM speeds using dividers and your FSB/base clock/HT, sure.The way you used "synchronous" and "asynchronous" in your first post kind of confused me.  It seemed like you were referring to them as actuall speeds instead of modes, deaming them "irrelevant" as I said...  sorry Sorry for the confusion.  I intended those as two separate points - RAM speeds have little impact on performance, and neither do synchronous/asynchronous modes.
That's what I get when using a laptop keyboard, I type as little as posile because I detest using it.Is the laptop always in one place ?....thought about using an external keyboard ?

or, maybee get yourself one of those old Nintendo power gloves and go wireless         don't know if that would work though... I'm sure some hardware hacker out there has done something like that.This is purely temporary, I hate laptops but I'm on holiday, and lugging along a >30kg desktop, plus keyboard, monitor, mouse ETC isn't exactly practical (or cheap).Realised I missed out the Intel bit in my OP. The merits of sync/async are obvious to me as being an unemployed overclocker, no RIG at the mo. Sorry for the confusion guys. Have Intel moved away from the 1.1 divider.That was the question I should have asked it as Quote

Have Intel moved away from the 1.1 divider.

That should be in a OC FAQ 

I FIND many questions asked about compatibility between AMD Processors and MOTHERBOARDS, these are the key points which help identify you need:

• Package AM3 CPU's are COMPATIBLE with socket AM3, AM2+ and AM2 Motherboards.
• Package AM2+ CPU's are compatible with socket AM2+ and AM2 motherboards.
• Package AM2 CPU's are ONLY compatible with socket AM2 motherboards.

Computer info:

Windows XP, SP3, Avira ANTIVIR Personal

Pentium Dual 1.61Ghz, 1Gb RAM
Gigabyte Ga-945gcmx-s2 motherboard
Soundcard currently a Crystal (Cirrus Logic?) cs4280-cm.

Some time ago, a high-pitched, non-stop sound started coming out of my speakers. I THOUGHT it was my speakers at first; changed them and still the same THING. Then I thought it was my soundcard.

Now I've just got a new soundcard (cs4280-cm), got everything set, and TESTED it. Just when I hit play in a random song the same high pitched, constant sound started coming out. It only started when I played that song, but it didn't stop when the song did. The high-pitched  sound volume is affected by Volume control, and it mutes if I mute.

So I changed soundcards and the problem remains. Any idea?I sorted this problem on my grandads PC. it was a dodgy card, obviously isnt for you, and it cant be your mobo, adjust sound settings, maybe your wave is to highIf you have a microphone plugged in, try muting the microphone in the volume settings or unplugging it altogether. It sounds like you're getting feedback from it.

I have two USB ports on the front of my PC and up until recently I've always used one or the other for my USB headphones.  For no apparent reason now, my headphones will not work in either of the two front ports.  First THEORY?  Headphones are bad, but I tried them in one of the ports on the rear of th PC and they still work.  When I plug them in to the front port, the power light on the headphone cable comes on, but there is no sound.  Second theory?  The front USB ports are bad, however, I've ruled that out as well, as my flash drives work fine in both of them (I can see them and read/write files to them).  Any suggestions as to what could be causing this or how to FIX it?Anyone?Without the knowledge of your particular sound card it is difficult to try to ascertain what the problem might be. However should it be the one mentioned in the following answer from another forum this could be your problem/solution.truenorth

titan APR 29, 2009 1:03am BST
If you followed all the advice above and still CANT find a cure, I might have another suggestion for you.

1. First be sure that you are not sharing ports in the front and back. The green port in the back is the same port thats used as a headphone in the front. The same goes for the pink microphone jack. So be sure only ONE of these (either the front or the back) is in use.
2. If no sound comes from the front jacks, go into "Reaklek HD Audio Manager" and in the "Audio I/O" tab click the little wrench button next to the word "Analog."
3. In this setting, CHECK "Disable Front Panel Jack Detection."
4. Click OK and suddenly you should be hearing audio and recording with your mic from the front jacks.
This does not relate to USB ports but it may still have relevance.It sounds like a current problem, and for what ever reason the headphones are not getting enough current to power the speakers.  The fact that they worked before probably means one of the contacts is either corroded or dirty.

It's not uncommon for front USB ports to have less current output than the rear ports.  Check your computers specs to see if that's true, although that may be hard to find that spec.Another suggestion that has just occurred to me as a possible solution is to go into device manager and disable all the USB controllers and restart the computer. That should automatically reinstall the drivers for the USB ports and correct any existing problems created by corrupted usb drivers.truenorthUSB ports don't have drivers. The chipset driver enables the ports and you don't uninstall any driver by "disabling" (or even uninstalling) the hardware from within device manager.From Device Manager, Windows 7:

Soybean -  Nice post. Do you understand it? USB drivers are part of all recent operating systems. Once the chipset driver is installed the OS will recognize the chip and activate the USB driver. Have you ever had to install a driver for your built-in USB port?What soybean relates to in his post is what my research also found. It did not make mention of "chipset" drivers only the USB host controllers. That being said i do agree that i have never personally installed USB host controller drivers and was relying on information gleaned from another forum on the subject after the thought had occurred to me to look into what could cause the issue and thought of it possibly being a driver issue. It seemed to have been confirmed there. I certainly bow to the more advanced knowledge that others may bring to the subject. truenorthFirst:

USB drivers are part of the OS. you don't need to install separate drivers. Unless the USB has some set of extra features, or it is something like a composite USB device (with something that doesn't have built in drivers), in which case the drivers are part of those installed with the chipset.

There is clearly some confusion over what a chipset is and does and therefore what the drivers are for. the chipset involves all the various IO chips on the motherboard. Not surprisingly, this includes the components responsible for USB connectivity. For Windows XP, sometimes if you don't install the chipset driver, XP will only use it as a USB 1.1 device/root hub, until you install the chipset drivers.

Yes. There drivers. But that is clearly a case of pedanticism, since judging from context Allan meant that USB doesn't separate drivers- like you need usually for video cards, sound cards, and so forth. Floppy drives have drivers too, but nobody goes on the internet looking for the fastest one, because there simply isn't one. Once you have the proper driver for the hardware, ASSUMING there are no awful bugs in it, your hardware is pretty much already being used to the fullest extent. It's like people who think a newer video driver can make their MX2 able to support Pixel shader 2. Utter nonsense perpetuated by youtube videos where people play games released last year on vintage pentium PCs by "usin tweaks lol".

Truenorth: your suggestion to "disable" was close; the common tact is to uninstall them, and have the machine redetect them when it restarts. This doesn't change the driver itself- it is still the same, but the registry information and various other settings will usually revert to their defaults.I thought I said all that. Well okay, may not ALL that. I said it in 30 words or less  I had some problems with my usb ports on the front of my computer before and when I updated my usb drivers the problem went away.
I hope this helps.

deebrie

When I start up my laptop, the BIOS screen and Windows LOADING screen are jumbled, and this leads to a blue screen page fault.  However, I can start up in safe mode just fine, and after uninstalling all my video card drivers, I can start up in normal mode as well, but Vista automatically reinstalls them and the problem happens again.  There's no WAY for me to cancel the reinstall.

I've gotten the BIOS to start up with no jumbling a couple of times, but I'm not exactly sure why.  In these cases, the jumbling appears about halfway into the Windows loading screen, which leads me to believe this issue is driver-related.  However, I can't get any more recent drivers to install besides the ones giving me problems.

If this was just my video card being shot, wouldn't I also get scrambling in Windows?  Could it possibly be a RAM or software issue that I could fix without replacing my entire computer?First of all, you should probably stop using the acronym BIOS. A sincerely doubt you mean bios. EXACTLY what do you see when you boot and how far does the boot get? Second, if the driver is a 3rd party driver then Windows CANNOT automatically reinstall it if you actually uninstall it.

1) How are you uninstalling the video card driver?
2) Where did you get the driver?
3) What led up to this (what happened between the last time the system booted normally and the first time it didn't)? Quote from: Allan on August 09, 2010, 03:06:22 PM

First of all, you should probably stop using the acronym BIOS. A sincerely doubt you mean bios. EXACTLY what do you see when you boot and how far does the boot get? Second, if the driver is a 3rd party driver then Windows CANNOT automatically reinstall it if you actually uninstall it.

1) How are you uninstalling the video card driver?
2) Where did you get the driver?
3) What led up to this (what happened between the last time the system booted normally and the first time it didn't)?

I'm sure that I do mean BIOS, but okay.  My BIOS splash screen is jumbled,

Okay. What is a bios splash screen? And why are you entering the bios in the first place?

and it's also jumbled when I enter the menu, but not so jumbled as to be unreadable.  The Windows load screen is also jumbled, with only the loading bar visible.  I get a blue screen after Vista finishes loading, and the computer shuts down.  With my nVidia card disabled, it boots normally, but the jumbling is still there most of the time.

1. From Device Manager.  I uninstall the nVidia drivers completely and attempt to install a different (updated) driver set after I reboot, but Vista automatically reinstalls and re-enables the device.

That's not how you uninstall a driver. If it is third party driver you can boot to safe mode, go to ADD/REMOVE and uninstall the driver from there. THAT will uninstall the driver. If you never actually installed a third party driver, there will not be an entry in ADD/REMOVE

2. The current one was shipped with my computer.  I can't update it, as I said, newer drivers from the nVidia site and Sony site simply refuse to install, saying they're incompatible, despite the fact that they were made for my exact model of PC and video card.

Laptop drivers MUST be downloaded from the laptop manufacturer's website only. Drivers downloaded from nvida's site will not work. If the driver from the Sony site doesn't install you should probably contact Sony (assuming you are certain that you are trying to install the correct driver).

3. Absolutely nothing.  I just got a blue screen out of nowhere today, and since then, I've had this problem.  System restore to a month ago didn't help.

What is the exact and total blue screen error message?

I'm sorry, but you are obviously not qualified to help me with this problem. 

I'm sorry, but you are obviously not qualified to help me with this problem. 

Okay.

I replaced my atx power supply but I don't have it wired right.  When I plug everything in I get a RED error message about a master and slave.  I UNPLUGGED the two cd DRIVES and the computer WORKS fine, but no cd players. Where can I find a diagram to show what order I should plug the CONNECTORS in.  Some of these long wires have multiple plugs.  It is a Nupower (redimax) rx 380kHow to Replace an ATX Power Supply (PSU)It sounds like the ribbon cable was installed wrong. Did you take it off the drives when you put the new power supply in?

My monitor started flickering and then completely went black (like it went into sleep mode, but it wasn't sleep mode cause I checked my settings) and because I wasn't sure if it was the graphics card or the monitor itself, I bought a used monitor. 

Now the "NEW" monitor is flickering slightly with with a ghostly horizontal grey line on it.  Sometimes half of the screen has like a translucent grey film over it.   And sometimes it acts perfectly fine like nothing is wrong but that only lasts a very short while.

When I went to check the driver properties it said that the driver needed to be updated.  Well, I was going to update it but the screen started fading out and I couldn't see a lot so I had to restart my computer.  It was still doing the same flickering/grey film thing so I went to update the driver and this time it didn't show anything wrong with it at all.
 
I saw some SUGGESTIONS about changing the REFRESH state.  Here's my huge concern.  If I do anything to this computer and it doesn't work and I can't go and put it back the way it was, I'm stuck.  I have no other computer, nor do I have access to any other computer at this time.  So, is it a good idea to change the refresh state (which is currently at 60 and I can only go down one more to 56) and if it doesn't work can I go back to the state it was in before I did that, or is it my graphics card that needs to be replaced and I'm pretty much stuck until I can afford to replace it.

Please keep in mind that I am completely computer stupid and I have a hard time understanding the lingo you guys sometimes use so be easy on me.
I don't know if this helps or not but my OS is Windows XP and I've had the computer for just about 10 years now.  It was built by my brother who worked for Microsoft at that time and ASKING him now for help is nearly impossible.1) A refresh rate of 60 is fine for pretty much all displays.
2) It does not sound like a driver problem
3) If I were you I'd get a new video card. Just be sure to purchase it from a source that will take it back if that isn't the problem (though I'm fairly certain it is).Thank you for the reply.  Now I just have to figure out what kind of video card I need to get.Open device MANAGER (start - run - devmgmt.msc) and look under "display adapters" to see what you currently have.

I have a Canon printer/scanner/fax machine and I have 3 LAPTOPS connect on the WiFi. I want to SCAN a picture and send it to LAPTOP #2, but it will only give me the option to send to Laptop #1. All three laptops communicate with the printer and I am able to print from any of them without problems. How do I send my scan pictures to a different laptop?Some info sources for you:
1.http://ask.metafilter.com/77920/Printer-sharing-over-a-WiFi-network
2.http://www.conniq.com/WinXPNetworking_wifi_direct_connection.htm
truenorth

Hi, I am dealing with an Acer Aspire U1521A that is approximately 3 years old or so. I left the computer on overnight and came back to it saying no signal. The fan and all of the components seem to be working (cd rom hard drive, ect)

I replaced the video card, tried using different memory in case the memory was bad, and I'm still not getting anything or any beeps to signal and error. I took the memory out just to see if it would give me any kind of error beep just to make sure it was still looking for something wrong, and it did give me a long beep in that case.


I dont know what to do next, Does this sound like motherboard failure?It would be great if there was but one thing that a finger could be pointed at.BUT unfortunately there are many issues that could result in this problem (including the major one you are concerned about). However before you get to that there are a few things that you can try.
1.When you mention that you "replaced the video card".Was it an actual replacement of an existing "card" or was it a card to replace an on-board card? In either case did you disable the other card?
2.Suggest testing the CMOS battery to see if it is still up to snuff.
3.It may be necessary to create a "bare bones" configuration to see if you can get life back in the computer.
4.My view is that it is most likely to be a computer issue rather than a monitor issue.
truenorthThe card that came on it was integrated. I bought one that uses a PCI EXPRESS slot, meets all the REQUIREMENTS, and is powering up because the fan is spinning on the video card.

Havent tried the cmos battery, is that something that could make it where video wouldn't kick in? Thanks for the helpHold on, LET's start at the beginning. After adding the new card did you disable onboard video in bios and then install the driver for the new card?No I couldnt, because I can't get any video to see the BIOS screen and do that. BIOS isn't coming up, nothing is. Its just a blank screen and the monitor light remains ORANGE as opposed to green when its working.I don't understand. When did you install the new video card? PLEASE - start at the beginning and tell us the whole story.Ok, I first had a problem when I left away from the computer, and kept getting no signal on the monitor.
 
Like normal, I just tried restarting the computer, but no signal still. So after a few attempts to restart, and the monitor continued to stay orange on the power light and say no signal, I tried reaettaching the cable. Afterwards I tried another monitor all together, and both monitors on a different PC. The monitors worked fine, and the PC still continued to not give out video.

I opened the tower to see if the fans were spinning, and if everything else seemed to be working, and it seemed to be working fine. Only thing I noticed, is a heat sink located under the fan that sits on the cpu was getting hot when I touched it. There seems to be another chip under that maybe, but i'm not sure. Its lodged in by a couple posts that have springs on them, and won't come off.

I then replaced the video card with a new one, that met all the requirments and it seemed to be working. The fan is spinning on the card and I then hooked the monitor up to that. No luck.

I then took out the memory, and tried some new memory thinking the memory could be done for. That didn't fix anything either. I also unplugged the power cord and held the on button for 30 seconds or so, and powered it back on. Still nothing.

Just a blank screen, with a no signal message on the monitor, and the power on the monitor remaining orange.

Neither the integrated, nor newly added PCI video card are working and im not sure what the heat sink that might be normal to attract that much heat, is sitting on top of. Maybe a video controller chip?The first thing I would have done is to try that monitor on a different computer, or a different monitor on that computer to make sure it's not a monitor problem. Quote from: rthompson80819 on August 08, 2010, 02:48:01 PM

The first thing I would have done is to try that monitor on a different computer, or a different monitor on that computer to make sure it's not a monitor problem.

Sorry, I see that you did from your last post, you must have hit the post button a second before I did.

I then replaced the video card with a new one, that met all the requirments and it seemed to be working. The fan is spinning on the card and I then hooked the monitor up to that. No luck.

You replaced WHAT video card with a new one? You said it's an integrated chip.

my sound card is not working
i have a sound blaster audigy 24 bit advanced HD and when i start my computer it doesn't have the startup sound, and when i go to creative volume controller it says "the audio device used by this application is not detected"
i am on WINDOWS XP sp2
dell1) Is this a new installation? If so, install the sound driver.
2) Please stop with the emoticons.all of the stuff is installed but i'll re- install and see if works  Let us know. And again - is this a new install?I re inshtalled it and itz werkinz! PENUT BUTTER JELLY TIME!!!!!!!!!!!!The following post has been modified from it's original version. It has been formatted to use ENGLISH language text, rather then the original phonetic spelling, and also to ADOPT a "less is more" policy whereby repeated smiley images are reduced to a single image.

Quote from: cpman26 on August 06, 2010, 08:09:28 AM

I re-installed it and its working!

The following post has been modified from it's original version. It has been formatted to use English language text, rather then the original phonetic spelling, and also to adopt a "less is more" policy whereby repeated smiley images are reduced to a single image.

ram

A-DATA 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory

video

HIS H575Q1GD Radeon HD 5750 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP

cpu

AMD Phenom II X6 1055T Thuban 2.8GHz 6 x 512KB L2 Cache 6MB L3 Cache Socket AM3 125W Six-Core Desktop Processor

motherboard

ASUS Crosshair IV Formula AM3 AMD 890FX SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard

2 ssds

OCZ Vertex LE (Limited Edition) OCZSSD2-1VTXLE50G 2.5" 50GB SATA II MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)


i want to water cool the video, CPU,and chipset

any suggestions  There's no advantage to watercooling your specific system.
The card doesn't need it, and for the price of watercooling it why not just buy a decent card?
Chipset doesn't need it, doesn't run hot enough.
CPU doesn't need it, high end air cooling is more than sufficient to clock most Thubans as high as they will go (if you're doing this for overclocking).And unlike air-cooled systems, water-cooling requires periodic maintenance.You don't clean your air-cooling...?Maybe once or twice a year i'll clean my cooling pads, but no. I primarily use laptop computers and my desktop fans are in excellent condition....like in a clean-room..... The rest of us LIVE in a world with DUST ... I clean my desktop (and laptop, if I've used it) every month because I have pets and a very dusty room, doesn't matter how often I vacuum the carpet.  Without fan filters, like with my old Antec 900 case, the dust was unmanageable.
For most people, cleaning every 6 months or so should be fine, so watercooling doesn't really INVOLVE much more maintenance than air, what little there is is certainly outweighed by the advantages (when used wisely, i.e. not in the OP's system).My friend has a liquid cooling system that uses beer. He has to keep filling up the tank every two-three weeks. Sounds more expensive that cleaning fans....Beer?  Most people use, uh, water ... implied in the name.  Topping up a system every 2-3 weeks means he's got serious problems with leaking or evaporation, I suggest he looks into that.  Bringng costs into the argument is meaningless anyhow, I thought we were talking about the need for "periodic maintenance".  There's no question that watercooling is more exensive than air, at least initially - most things that are better do cost more. Quote from: Calum on August 06, 2010, 07:26:14 AM

Topping up a system every 2-3 weeks means he's got serious problems with leaking or evaporation,

My friend has a liquid cooling system that uses beer. He has to keep filling up the tank every two-three weeks.

An acer T180 XP, the computer recognizes my sound card without any issues. I reinstalled the most recent driver for my sound card AC'97. I've tried different speakers, the port on the front of the computer but nothing works. No idea what you are talking about. Try starting at the beginning and TELLING us what the problem is and everything you've done (including why you "reinstalled the most recent driver".Oops, sorry I've been explaining it so much I forgot the most important detail, I am getting no sound whatsoever from my computer. Did you ever have sound? If so, what happened between the last time you had sound and the FIRST time you didn't (new hw, sw, virus, error, etc)? Please, don't make me pull teeth. Tell us the full story.Okay, the computers sound has worked fine since we've had it. Recently I tried to replace the motherboard, since then the sound has not worked. I've tried reinstalling the OS (XP PRO) to see if it would remedy the problem but it didn't work. Quote from: MGSxRAIDEN on AUGUST 08, 2010, 02:57:29 PM

Okay, the computers sound has worked fine since we've had it. Recently I tried to replace the motherboard, since then the sound has not worked. I've tried reinstalling the OS (XP PRO) to see if it would remedy the problem but it didn't work.

Recently I tried to replace the motherboard

Hey everyone,

Need your help with this one.

When playing some games the PC completely turns off and after a few seconds powers back on.

Only happens with certain games and at random stages, not at set points where the system could be under heavier load. It happens on DoW2 and Napoleon: Total War. On Napoleon it happened on the opening video so far in. DoW2 i can get it to do it on the Peformance Test but again it can get through it fine SOMETIMES and shutdown others.

I've attached the DXDIAG and below are the PC's specs.

I've ran stress tests on the CPU and Memory but it does nothing to the PC apart from heat the CPU a bit, no where near auto-shutdown levels.

In the Event Viewer it shows a Critical Error, Source: Kernel Power
Event 41:
Quote
The system has rebooted without cleanly SHUTTING down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly.

BIOS is at it's latest revision and has been tested with previous versions.

Unticked the restart at major failure but as the machine does't restart, it powers off, this makes no difference in finding an error screen.
Low Settings, High Settings, Low Resolution, High Resolution, nothing makes a difference.

PC Spec:
Processor:   
Intel(R) Core(TM) i7 CPU 920 2.67GHz (8 CPUs), OC3.1GHz
Memory:   
6144MB RAM
Hard Drive:   
1.5 TB
Video Card:   
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 295
Monitor:   
50" Samsung Plasma TV
Sound Card:   
Speakers (Realtek High Definition Audio)
Operating System:   
Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit (6.1, Build 7600) (7600.win7_rtm.090713-1255)
Motherboard:   
Asus P6T
Computer Case:   
Antek 1200Go here...

http://www.memtest.org/#downiso

Download & run.

Alan <><  Ran this before but running it again now.

4passes and no errors up to now.

Any other ideas?It would appear as if you didn't have enough power to the CPU or GPU, causing the games to crash... try downclocking the CPU and setting your voltage 0.01-0.05V higher in BIOS. Otherwise get yourself a nice 400-500W PSU.I have a 950watt PSU and I can run other high spec games ok like Empire: Total War. Tis very random.I'll try underclocking tonight and let u know950W? Nice. Never knew those exist (serious). Best I had was a 450W. ;P

Try finding game patches. It MIGHT be that the gtx 295 is not supported for them.Mate has a GTX295 and his runs the games fine.

Just underlocked the CPU but still no joy, on Black and White 2 i used to be able to get into the game and play it for a few minutes, now i can't even get past the first loading screen before getting to the Game Menus.

So now i can replicate the issue but i would rather it wasn't there :p.Hmmm.... that is one WEIRD build. Maybe try settings the resolution down? Tried changing resolution and quality, no differenceif you are not gaming, and just surfing the web, etc. does it do this?Only happens when playing games, doing anything else it doesn't happenFor anyone that is interested in this or comes across the same thing, i was able to fix it with the help of Black & White 2.

I remembered a few days ago reading about a game burning out the new GTX460s because it had no max FPS set and on a still screen would the card would try drawing into the 1000s of FPSs.

I was experiencing the same type of shutdown when playing Black & White 2, luckily when you open the game and it starts its loading screen it shows the FPS in the top left corner. On the Lionhead loading screen this was in the region of 70FPS.

The next screen would be the EA Games screen which is a still screen, the FPS would jump up to 500 and when it hit 520 the game would shut down.
Although unable to set MAX FPS for B&W2 that i could see, i change the Nvidia Settings to use Vertical Sync for Black & White 2 (previously on "Let the program choose").
Vertical Sync limits the FPS to the refesh rate of the screen, so 60hz refresh rate = 60fps max.

Once set, the EA GAmes screen would go no higher than 60fps and the game has been working fine since.

It was the GFX Card halting which caused the system to reboot, basically to stop overheating and burning out the card.

Most games have a MAX FPS set so you only need to do it on a per program basis really.

Hope this helps some people!