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Anyone know how to activate the composite VIDEO output on this card? We are running OPEN Office with a series of title slides and need to output composite to the in house video system. There are many Mx400 models, could you give more details, as the specific model..GEForce 2 MX400 is all the nomenclature there is.Does the card, in fact, have a composite video output port?  I have a GeForce2 MX400 that only has one connector, which is for a VGA monitor.Yes it does . It also has an S-video output. The card was working for a while but evidently after the last Windows update there was a glitch.

This is in a SFF Compaq EVO system. NVidia DRIVERS are installed and up to date. Also downloaded an updated version of Desktop manager. Still no info on the help page about exactly HOW to turn on the composite out.Well, I have not used composite video output with a video card, so I can't suggest a solution. Someone else may have an answer. 

In the mean time, you may want to browse Google search findings
http://ixbtlabs.com/articles2/gf4/geforce4-tv-out.htmlhttp://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+enable+composite+video+out+AND+mx400&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a 

One finding which may be helpful: http://ixbtlabs.com/articles2/gf4/geforce4-tv-out.htmlahhh, the memories. I used a GF2 MX many moons ago....good times, good times.....oh right, ahem. I don't know what version drivers you are using, but there used to be a screen in display properties which had a picture of 2 monitors; one in the foreground was the MAIN output, and another in the background should be secondary. There should be a radio button somewhere there which says either 'clone display' or 'extend display'. Try those and see how you go. Beware it has been a long time since i played with one of these cards, or tv-out for that matter, so the current driver set-up may be very different. Quote from: thelaymanscomputer on August 09, 2010, 05:16:47 AM

... a screen in display properties which had a picture of 2 monitors; one in the foreground was the main output, and another in the background should be secondary. There should be a radio button somewhere there which says either 'clone display' or 'extend display'.

How do i troubleshoot to figure out whats wrong with my laptop because it's not working anymore. i recently super glued the (i don't know what they're called )but the part where i plug the power from the charger to the laptop frame because it sinked inside the laptop itself. and when i put everything back together it didn't want to turn on anymore no blinking lights or anything just dead. it might be that the battery is just plain dead and the charger simply isn't working anymore. And i just noticed that the ground pin for the WALL outlet has been missing and I've been still using it.

It's a Toshiba Satellite A205-S5804

thanksWell given it's current state it is well nye impossible to do any diagnostic tests on the computer.However you can test (with a volt meter) to see if the charger is producing power and also similarly test the battery for power as well. If both test OK then the next step i suggest would be to verify that the part you "super glued" (which i take it is the power transference POINT from charger to computer) is integral and all it's terminals are connected. That would undoubtedly mean removing the case and may be beyond the ability of most laptop users.truenorth Quote from: truenorth on August 07, 2010, 06:02:11 PM

Well given it's current state it is well nye impossible to do any diagnostic tests on the computer.However you can test (with a volt meter) to see if the charger is producing power and also similarly test the battery for power as well. If both test OK then the next step i suggest would be to verify that the part you "super glued" (which i take it is the power transference point from charger to computer) is integral and all it's terminals are connected. That would undoubtedly mean removing the case and may be beyond the ability of most laptop users.truenorth

Well done. Looks like a charger is now on your wish list.Research on the Internet should provide quite a few options of purchase.truenorth
P.S. Just had an idea before you rush out and buy a replacement charger.Given that you are a "super glue" kinda person. Given that usually to remove the ground pin on the wall plug end of the charger would require considerable force (if bending it off were involved) that was an opportunity to cause structural degradation (damage) to the other 2 wires in the molded plug as well.Cut off the plug entirely. Install a new 3 prong male plug appropriately connected to all 3 wires and who knows it may rejuvenate the charger.I would try that 1st.

Ah well hopefully the frying stopped at the charger.truenorth

Why 99% of POWER SUPPLY Reviews Are Wrong
Author:  Gabriel TORRES
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/410

I recently purchased an Intel D915PGN motherboard and the PCI Express slot does not work. I am tying to use an ATI X800 Pro that tested good on another computer. I have set the primary video adapter to the X16 slot and I have noticed that under PCI Express configuration that PEG Negotiated width is blacked out and says none next to it. Does this mean that the BIOS does not detect the card? I have noticed that the computer will boot into Windows with this card in and it will not show ANYTHING on the SCREEN. Any help is WELCOMED.

I want a cord that PLUGS into my computer and has several plug-in ports so I can plug in my camera, WEBCAM and printer all at once.  (like an electrical extension cord) Is there such an ITEM? Thanks HTTP://www.google.com/search?hl=en&rlz=1B3GGGL_enUS312US316&q=usb+octopus&aq=f&aqi=g2&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=It sounds like what you want is a USB hub.  They are pretty common, and not that expensive. They make powered and unpowered units.  Personally, I prefer the powered ones so there is no problem with current draw.That's exactly what I need.  Thanks

Hi, i have windows xp sp2 ,  nvidia 8600 gts   video card and a  Samsung syncmaster 204b monitor. Everything worked well, until i installed Gta San Andreas. One day playing, i accidently Alt Tab'bed  in the middle of the game, and monitor colors GOT dark. Used the monitor options for DIFFERENT profiles of colors, changed brightness and contrast, then took a trip on  nvidia control panel  changing   RGB  brightness, contrast, vibrance, GAMMA and other *censored*. Nothing helped, so i downloaded few softwares  to control gamma, but colors ar still somewhat dark or pale, ALSO, everytime i look at monitor i feel my eyes tired. What can i do GUYS? Thanks.Does the problem still exist when you're not playing GTA? Also, have you turned your computer off since this happened?

Hi,

I recently built a computer and for the first few weeks it ran great. Now it will randomly freeze. When it it freezes it does not show any errors, just the screen that it was last on. Also the error logs of windows do not show any reason for the freeze. It can run for about a week or so before it will freeze up. When it reboots it loads fine. Here is a list of the build. If this sounds of more of a hardware issue, but it could be a driver issue (never seen anything like this before). Here is the build of the computer:

-Sony Optiarc DVD Burner with LightScribe Black SATA Model AD-7241S-0B LightScribe Support - OEM
-Microsoft Windows 7 HOME Premium Full
-(2)Western Digital Caviar Blue WD6400AAKS 640GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive
-ASUS M4A785TD-M EVO AM3 AMD 785G HDMI Micro ATX AMD Motherboard
-Antec EarthWatts Green EA-430D Green 430W Continuous power ATX12V v2.3 / EPS 12V 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power (this has been discontinued from Antec site)
-CORSAIR 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 Desktop Memory Model CMV4GX3M2A1333C9
-AMD Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition DENEB 3.2GHz Socket AM3 125W Quad-Core Processor HDZ955FBGMBOX

I also have a fan program (Speedfan) running on the computer and it reports all temperatures on the computer in acceptable ranges. All the drivers are showing correctly with no '!'s or 'X's. The Bios has the newest UPDATE along with the rest of the drivers. Have run (windows) SFC and it returned fine, I have also scanned the hard drives for errors and nothing came up. I have not run a memory test on it yet. I was thinking of replacing the Power supply as in the past it has fixed most power issues. I have included the BELARC REPORT so the exact computer software can be seen. It does not show the pictures but all the updates have installed properly. (Outlook is not used on this computer, it has never been loaded, so the section about those updates is irrelevant.) Any suggestions?

(the BELARC extension needs to be changed to .html instead of .txt and while the date says 7-14 all updates have been installed SINCE then)

[recovering disk space - old attachment deleted by admin]

The Asus pce-n31 does not detect any network, eventhough the 2 antennas are straight-up fixed (without the metal holder piece of crap because I didn't feel like opening the case again.. To put the graphic card myself was such a pain, it would gold into place so I had to push it on the left so the shells would go in) but the little green light is opened, YET NOT BLINKING, which gives no signal, really..



I really need your help.
I would really loveee to use my new computer (((


I have a D-LINK ROUTER on the main floor and it is working since we all have laptops at home.


NCIX tested everything, why does it not work when it arrives home? It's allllllllways like that with me
GRRR

Config:


1 x PC Assembly and Testing with 1 Year Limited NCIX System Warranty (PRE-CONFIG WIN. OS If Purchased)
PC Assembly & Testing does not include servers and requires an additional 4-5 business days to ship once all parts are in stock. NCIX will install heatsinks or pre-filled CPU liquid coolers. 1 Year Limited Warranty on system components assembled by NCIX.
1 x ASUS PCE-N31 Wireless Network Adapter 802.11B/G/N Up to 300MBPS PCI-EXPRESS
1 x Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium Edition 64BIT DVD OEM
1 x Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB SATA3 6GB/S 7200RPM 64MB Cache 3.5IN Dual Proc Hard Drive OEM
1 x AMD Phenom II X6 1055T Thuban 6 Core Processor 2.8GHZ Socket AM3 Retail Box
1 x MSI 790X-G45 ATX AM3 790X DDR3 CrossFire 2XPCI-E16 2XPCI-E 2XPCI SATA2 RAID GBLAN Audio Motherboard
1 x LG GH24LS50 24X Super Multi Lightscribe SATA DVD Writer OEM Black
1 x G.SKILL F3-10666CL9D-4GBRL Ripjaws PC3-10666 4GB 2X2GB DDR3-1333 CL9-9-9-24 Core i5 Memory Kit
1 x Radeon HD 5850 725MHZ 1GB GDDR5 4.0GHZ PCI-E 2XDVI HDMI Display Port
This video card is available only as part of a pre-built NCIX PC system.
1 x NZXT Tempest EVO EATX
1 x Seasonic SS-600ET 600W EPS12V 24PIN ATX Power Supply PFC 80PLUS Bronze 6PIN 8PIN PCI-E 120MM Fan OEM

Here's the network card pad: http://www.ncix.com/products/produ [...] &sku=49999

I don't see what is going wrong..
They did a complete check-in and tested the computer before shipping. It is a great firm.
But only did the computer freeze when I restarted it  but it detects ZERO network (without mentionning the fact that there are black borders around my screen 24'' DELL full hd in a 1908-1020 resolution.. this is not NORMAL im supposed to be full screen)...

And don't see why or how to update the pilots/drivers of the network (I don't know how) and if there is not any connection, it only makes it worst...

I have a toshiba LAPTOP model m45-s169, after much use the screen finally died on it.  I am not much of into repairing an fixing laptops but, I wouldnt mind being able to use this again easily.  I cleaned the end of the connectors an still nothing.  I was told to try an get one from ebay an change out the screen.  I didnt really want to do that unless it really comes down too it.  If nothing else some help changeing the video cable.If you don't want to sink any money into it then how about using an external monitor?truenorthA new screen will run $130 to $150.  Google "replacement laptop screens".

EBay also has replacement screens for about half that.  And it even has complete laptops for about half the cost of a new screen.  Some are marked "as is" which is a little scary.

Personally, before I put a lot of money into an old laptop with a broken screen I would look at new low priced new laptops.  If the screen is gone, some of the other components may not be far behind.Im useing an external but, I find it rather hard to use at times an it needs a battery too.An external monitor that uses a battery ? ?
Where the heck are you getting all this equipment from that has all these issues ? ?

Cause so far it's been a Dell Dimension desktop; an old Compaq non working server; a Toshiba laptop and now this Acer...Patio, my stuff works good for the most part.  Its just that THINGS will have issues from time to time.  I got the dell fixed an working.  The compaq was used heavly an still works with some parts missing.  The toshbia needs the monitor an battery replaced but, I just want the screen fixed for the most part.  The Acer is just I dont know.... since Im new to win 7A new screen is like $60... ebay is your solution. I can sell you a full working one for a135 models, but can't guarantee it will fit/work in yours.I imgane that it would, I just thought that maybe some one knew what possibly wrong.  PROBABLY not since those are differnt models.How did the Memory upgrade go?what memory upgrade?     BC I have no clue what your get at here.   My screen is damaged I didnt STATE that I needed or had ram to put in this unit.Ok since you say the screen is "dead", I take the fact there is nothing on it whatsover, even if you take it APART and shine a strong light to it from the back? If you CAN see something on the screen with a strong flashlight in the back, it is the inverter and backlight. Replace. If not, then buy a whole new screen assembly for ~$80.I know that the back light comes on.  Thanks I know that its definetly the inverter now.  Im unsure of how to replace that.I'll make pictures of me taking apart my a135 on Friday and post here. Stay tuned!think that I may just take it down to the shop to have them fix it.just a notice that some point this week this machine is going in to be fixed.  After finding a whole lot of I dont know what got in it, an finally able to get the heatsink cleaned out.   Haveing to put up with it sit around with no really use.  I wont know till next week wether it will get repaired or not.  It will save a lot of hastle later though.  Thanks guys.

A few months ago, my CD/DVD burner STOPPED reading disks. This happened after I had tried to install drivers for my cell phone from a CD. My computer freaked out and would not respond, so I turned it off without removing the disk. I assume this fried the drive. I have tried several things in an attempt to fix it. No luck. The CD is not EVEN recognized by the computer. It just says "Insert a Disk". Is there anything else I can try? If not, does anyone have any suggestions for a GOOD CD/DVD burner? I'd like it if the burner was at least 16X. Thanks in advance.Lite-On burners are reasonable and reliable...
What happens if you put a data disk in the drive ? ?From MS Support for XP
Your CD or DVD drive cannot read or write media
Automatically diagnose and repair problems with your CD or DVD drive when trying to read or burn media. Quote from: patio on August 09, 2010, 07:24:34 PM

What happens if you put a data disk in the drive ? ?

From MS Support for XP
Your CD or DVD drive cannot read or write media
Automatically diagnose and repair problems with your CD or DVD drive when trying to read or burn media.

Then the drive is dead...

Can you mix a OLDER PATA hard drive and the newer SATA hard drive on the same system? I am running Window 7 Ultimate  You can if the motherboard has both KINDS of CONNECTOR. My own machine has one of each kind.
Thank you muchRemember that if you introduce a SATA DEVICE for the 1st time (where none had ever been installed on that computer) you will have to "ENABLE" SATA in your BIOS for the device to be detected.truenorth

I have a Syba SY-PCI45004, 2x ATA/133 IDE PCI ITE8212 chipset, non-RAID59945456, I've tried three DIFFERNT cd drives Sony CD U5211, TOSHIBA TS-H292, Samsung SW-252 an Im not able to see any of them in XP.  Sounds like that IDE card has gone SOUTH...Can't wait to see where this thread ends up....I predict at least two references to "not having enough time" and at least three uses of the phrase "an such" or "and such" by the end of PAGE 2.What?  I have a dvd drive connected to it an is able to see it.  Just wanted to see if these wont work first though is all.  Its an ATAPI or something like that.This shouldnt take long to do.  Just not sure why its not seeing any of those.

Hello all, I am some QUESTIONS regarding a computer that isn't mine. My cousin has a Compaq machine that she says is about a year old. Due to our time schedules I haven't been able to get over there and LOOK at it in person but I will be within the next few days and I thought I'd ask on here if anyone may have some answers to what could be causing the problems.

What information I do have is slim, until I get over there and look at it in person but I'll post what I do know. It's a Compaq from the stores, NOTHING custom at all except a new sound card that just bought two days ago. No one who uses is very computer experienced so they haven't do anything on the computer to it really except surf the internet and upload photos from their camera. The OS is Vista 32 bit and it has 2 GBs of ram. I did a SYSTEM recovery on it 2 nights ago when I was trying to figured out was wrong with their sound, which it happened to be their sound card hence the new one.

They called and told me tonight that the computer locks up after being turned on for awhile when not being used. They said it's been doing this even before I did the system recovery. From my understanding if they LEAVE it on for awhile without it being used it locks up completely. Mouse won't move, opening Task manger doesn't work, absolutely nothing.

If they manually shut it off after this happens the computer won't even load. It turns back on and a black screen pops up with some words, which they didn't write down so I don't know exactly what the message says. If they unplug the machine from the wall then turn it on it works fine again until they let it sit again. Which in that case it locks up again and they have to repeat the process.

I'm sorry for the lack of information, I figured I would post and hopefully get some ideas so when I get there I can get started right away trying to fix/figure out the problem, since like I said before, our time is limited for me to be over there. Once I get more information I'll edit my post with what I know. If anyone has specific questions feel free to ask and I'll reply once I can answer it.

Thanks to anyone who tries to help out, it's much appreciated.

Acer LAPTOP DISPLAY is sometimes blurry with lines running down. I did install a VGA driver but that doesn't seeem to solve the issue.Where did this driver come from ? ? Quote from: Dykesmahn on August 10, 2010, 07:05:47 PM

Acer laptop display is sometimes blurry with lines running down. I did install a VGA driver but that doesn't seeem to solve the issue.

I have an AMD Athlon 64 [email protected] Dual-Core PROCESSOR TK-55 1.80 GHz.

I found a program that could give me the full speed of 1800Mhz. But it claimed to have a "superspeed" option where I could make my cpu speed 2300Mhz.  I dont know if this is a hoax but if its real, could it damage my cpu? ONE of them called ClockGen. Basically the UTIL WOULD OC through windows using whatever on the fly methodology it uses. It is not permanent to bios though.

Thing is, software like can't increase the volts if needed and you don't want to lose control of an OC by letting a util do it for you. BIOS is your friend. Any OC'ing has inherent dangers to the components of a Rig, but that is the risk we take. Done correctly, it is a joy to behold. These days the benchmark to start with is easier with modern CPU's with speed ratings ETC... BUT the risk is still the same to the components within and it is all too easy to fry something.

My advice is don't bother if this is just a curious kind of question
Software overclocking - don't bother.  Not worth the instability and hassle.

Hi All,
I have an old machine that was running a M64 AGP card. It toasted. Anyone know where I can get another card to replace this one thats cheap? The machine only sits in the corner buring DVDs so I don't need anything fancy.

Thanks
I would check NEWEGG....
NOTE You need to find out exactly which AGP card you have as there are 2 DIFFERENT Voltage models and cannot be interchanged...Thanks for the heads up!

I am going to get the model NUMBER and see what specs I can find about it.

I pulled the card but I am not sure which voltage it is.

I got the motherboard number and was goiing to try to figure out what it can handle.

Its a Intel E21088 but I can't find the manual or the specs.

Anyone know what this board can handle for a video card?

I was able to find some information on the old video card.

tnt2 m64 32 meg 320vn01059398

Aopen part number
90.05210.864
 
model m64-agp

Any one know where I can get a replacement card? One that is the same voltage?

Thanks
Never mind....I found one for $17 and change.

They should be SHIPPING it to me later today.

Thanks

I bought a usb 2 10 port mains powered hub and when I plug it into my computer and plug the VARIOUS peripherals into it my computer runs as slow as watching paint dry.
My computer operating system is windows vista home basic. The computer I have is old (like me) intel celeron, 1gb ram. I am currently USING a 4 port usb hub (generic) with own power and have had no problems.
Can anybody help me with a solution to my problem with the 10 port hub cause I would like to use it.
Thankyou.Too many USB devices or perhaps your USB standard is 1.1 maybe and your equipment running slower. Is the ten port hub ok to run under a generic driver or did you get a disc?You might want to optimize your use of the 10 port hub by ensuring that items plugged into it are only powered on when being used.This will allow the convenience of having them all plugged in but limit the power draw on the computer. Also if not already DONE so you MAY gain some performance increase re the hub if it is plugged into a rear usb port as opposed to a front one. You could also experiment with the various devices to see which are causing the slowing down of the computer and govern your use with that knowledge. truenorth
P.S. Not being aware of your computer knowledge level given my recommendations above. Ensure that the proper procedure for the "safely remove hardware" procedure is adhered to when disconnecting/removing/shutting down any device connected to your 10 port hub. To not do so can have potential disastrous RESULTS--known from personal experience.

I bought a Koolance VID-NX470 water block hoping to install it on my Galaxy Geforce GTX 470 GC video card and it didn't fit. It appears that this Galaxy video card is different than most GTX 470 video card designs. Looking at the card with the pci slot facing down, to the RIGHT of the gpu is a ROW of square boxes (not sure what these are) then to the right of these is (if not mistaken) the voltage regulators. I want to water block this card if there is one, otherwise I'll have to get another card.

This card is running hot and I already have most of my water cooling system already installed. I plan on finishing the system by installing the cpu water block and video water block when and if one can be found.

I'll GIVE additional info if needed.Usually, waterblocks are only released for reference cards, if your Galaxy is non-reference you will need a specific waterblock, which I doubt is available.
The only solution I THINK is to CHANGE your card for a reference one.

hello i hope that SOMEONE help me please OK. i have a dell inspiron 1525 LAPTOP but hd went BAD so i replace it and now i cant install the OS i get an error mesage saying the files are missing i don't KNOW what to do p. 44
http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/ins1525/en/SG/Y465HA01MR.pdfi have all that  it came with my laptopPlease provide the whole story. In detail, what is going on?

I have Western Digital hard DRIVE that has recently stopped working. It was originally in an external enclosure but now, nothing detects it. So, I took it out and put it into one of my computer's free HDD slots. I booted up the computer and it STILL was not detected. However, a message popped up that said: "One of your hard DRIVES is password protected. Please enter the correct password: " I was LIKE  ! Where the heck had the password come from!? I tried all the basic passwords, but none WOULD work. I know that asking for how to remove a password is hacking, so here is my question: I just want to wipe the drive completely clean, so how do I do that? I got the Western Digital Low Level format utility, but can I format the utility without knowing the password? Can I clear something on the hard drive similar to a computer's CMOS?Where did you really get this hard drive from?

Hi everyone.

Here is the issue I'm having. We had a thunderstorm this morning and lost power for about a minute or two. I was using a surge suppressor, btw. Now my computer won't turn on. Well, actually, the lights on the power supply light up, and the fans start to spin, and then after a second or so, the lights on the PSU either go out completely or flash on and off INTERMITTENTLY. Strangely, one of (but not all of) the case fans continues to spin. Also, the power light on the computer (in the front) never comes on.
I tried unplugging it from the suppressor and running the power cord straight to the outlet with the same results.
I'm feeling reasonably confident that some piece of the system was FRIED, either the PSU or the mobo, and I'm wanting to replace it. Any suggestions on how I figure out which one it might be?

Thanks a ton for any help.I have a Gateway Model T6534 (standard computer) and it gives me the same problem, which is "Powers on for 1/2 sec, then powers itself off by going to sleep with flashing power light" My suspicion was that it came from a 'C:/ disk full' condition, but am not sure as the C:/ disk was cleaned up and works properly on another Gateway. I exchanged the power supplies, but that did nothing to fix the problem, so it is not the PSU. Any help to solve this would KEEP an otherwise good computer out of the trash. As it stands, I am suspecting an interlock in the BIOS, but have no knowledge how to access it or fix it. Power does not stay on long enough to read the BIOS settings. Any tips how this interlock can be bypassed? I am willing to try even possibly destructive suggestions as the thing is worth only spare parts to me in its present state.OPAS.Please make your own subject post,truenorth Quote from: Broven on August 11, 2010, 11:37:46 AM

...Here is the issue I'm having. We had a thunderstorm this morning and lost power for about a minute or two. I was using a surge suppressor, btw. Now my computer won't turn on. Well, actually, the lights on the power supply light up, and the fans start to spin, and then after a second or so, the lights on the PSU either go out completely or flash on and off intermittently. Strangely, one of (but not all of) the case fans continues to spin. Also, the power light on the computer (in the front) never comes on.
I tried unplugging it from the suppressor and running the power cord straight to the outlet with the same results.
I'm feeling reasonably confident that some piece of the system was fried, either the PSU or the mobo, and I'm wanting to replace it. Any suggestions on how I figure out which one it might be?...

I have been thinking about as I would have a tight budget, a new Rig would be hard to achieve. Questions are. One, would a SFF system be wanting in terms of gaming. Would plan for a Clarkdale.

Second, would my Xbox Crystal be worth sacrificing for a Case Mod? I still use it heavily, so it would be a wrench to do so, even though being what? 3 or 4 gens behind. Thanx.Small Form Factor PCs are said to be running nhot.
This maybe be a false impression.
The case feels hot to the touch ...
..  because of its small surface area.Nice Modded case for Airflow. Quote from: Geek-9pm on August 07, 2010, 12:40:58 PM

Small Form Factor PCs are said to be running nhot.
This maybe be a false impression.

The case feels hot to the touch ...
..  because of its small surface area.

Liquid cooling in a £500 budget, not worth it.  Sure, you have your rad, and I'd guess tubing, but you'd still need a decent block and it could be a tight fit, so I'd not bother.  i3 doesn't benefit from liquid cooling anyway.
With a £500 budget, you could pick up a decent i3 system.  I just specc'd one up, sans graphics, for £352 in the Lian-Li A05NB - add a decent graphics card and shipping, you're around £500.
The Lian-Li case is basically a mini tower, it will take a full ATX board.  I'm not sure how small exactly you want to go - a Lian-Li Q07 would be a good mini-ITX choice if you wanted to go smaller, alterantives are the Silverstone Sugo series.  Is there a particular SFF case that you had in mind?

I have noticed recently, via SIW, EVEREST, etc that the +12v readings VARY between 11.902v and 11.908v, but never reach 12v. I have a 550w PSU, (cannot recall maker). My question is, need I be CONCERNED about the 'low' voltage? All other voltages are within the required parameters. Also, having looked at replacement PSUs, I see some advertised with 'Single 12v Rail', and others with multiple 12v rails. Can anyone advise which is better, and why? PC specs as per my profile. Regards to all, Alexma +12VDC ± 5%; +11.400 VDC  to  +12.600 VDCSo, nothing to worry about then! Many thanks CC.Forgot to answer your other question.  Many new computers no longer use the 3.3V, just a small amount of +5V & mostly +12V for everything.  You've seen motherboards with 24-pin connector and 4, 6, or 8-pin 12V CONNECTORS & all the +12V for the optical drives & hard drives & PCI-e graphics card, adds up to a lot of +12V.  One output is not enough, so ATX standard ATX12V 2.2 added multiple +12V outputs.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ATXAlso, just to ADD to the above - software voltage readings are not accurate.

I have a dell dimension 2300 with 1 gb ram and 1.8 ghz processor, I recently installed vista 32 bit os on it and needed a new video card as my standard vga card was not fully functional with vista and only getting 16 bit graphics. I bought a radeon x1300 card that has a dms59 plug. It came with a dvi-dms59 adaptor and i bought a vga-dvi adaptor seperately. so i GOT a vga monitor plugged into a vga-dvi adaptor to a dvi-dms59 adaptor plugged into the card. It didn't come with a cd or drivers. I figured the drivers should convert the graphics to my vga monitor. when I plugged it all in it didn't DISPLAY anything, I need drivers and install instuctions,
Thanks,
spmack78The drivers and INSTRUCTIONS will be AVAILABLE as a DLoad from the card manuf. website...

Plugged the backup harddrive in this morning to back up some files. When I TRY to stop it and unplug it MSG says it is still active. The tiny activity LED has been lit solid all day, indicating that it is INDEED busy. What did I do? How do I undo it?
Thanks for any help. I am not very COMPUTER savvy so KISS, please. Dixieflash

Toshiba 250GB, model HDDR250E03XHow many USB devices running?Report how it shows up in Disk Management...
RIGHT clik My Computer....select Manage...then Disk Management.
Then right clik the drive and select Properties.How many USB devices? Only the Toshiba and a mouse. Tnx.

I have a four-year old Gateway T6534 (standard run-of-mill computer). Upon power-on, the fans start, then the computer turns itself off within 1/2 second going into sleep mode with no further reaction. I exchanged the power pack with one from another Gateway, and tried the suspected pack on the good Gateway - it works fine, but same problem persists on the defective one with the good power pack installed. The BATTERIE shows 3 volt. The hard DISK from the defective one works fine on the good Gateway, but it was nearly full and I re-organised it on the good Gateway. Can anyone suggest how to bypass or remove this power-off interlock? I think it is something very SIMPLE, but can't find technical docs (e.g. wiring diagrams). Quote from: OPAS on August 10, 2010, 11:16:20 AM

I have a four-year old Gateway T6534 (standard run-of-mill computer). Upon power-on, the fans start, then the computer turns itself off within 1/2 second going into sleep mode with no further reaction. I exchanged the power pack with one from another Gateway, and tried the suspected pack on the good Gateway - it works fine, but same problem persists on the defective one with the good power pack installed. The batterie shows 3 volt. The hard disk from the defective one works fine on the good Gateway, but it was nearly full and I re-organised it on the good Gateway. Can anyone suggest how to bypass or remove this power-off interlock? I think it is something very simple, but can't find technical docs (e.g. wiring diagrams).

I suspect you will need to start your own Topic ...just so things don't get muddy around here...

I currently have Dimension C521.

I'm looking for a graphic card that fits and also compatible for this computer?

Can anyone find me a slim graphic card for this computer?PLEASE?

My Monitor is VGA

Only will be buying from Dell.ca , Futureshop.ca, bestbuy.ca
Anything in Canada

 
That's it. No Newegg and other sites. .

I will track this thread.

 

I bought Zotac GeForce 210, i tried installing it but it didnt fit so i returned it.

I bought Zotac GeForce GT 220, Again, I tried installing it but it didnt fit.

 

Seriously, can someone actually find me a graphic that fits? No power SUPPLY problems?Bumpwhat card is currently in the machine?http://www.dell.com/us/en/dfh/desktops/dimen_c521/pd.aspx?refid=dimen_c521&cs=22&s=dfh



My Graphic card would be Integrated NVIDIA GeForce 6150 LE graphic GPUI supplied you with 3 links to low profile GRAPHICS cards in Chat last eve......

What happened ? ?
Quote from: patio on August 12, 2010, 07:54:41 AM

I supplied you with 3 links to low profile graphics cards in Chat last eve......

What happened ? ?

No i did not...after you stated you didn't want newegg (why i don't know ) I gave you links to 2 other Vendors for the card you were looking for.

I'm done here.

Alright, I recently purchased a GeForce GTS 250 for my computer however it did not meet the power supply requirements, it requires a minimum or 400 watts and at the time I had a 250 watt. Against the better judgment of the suggestive minimum requirement, I went ahead and installed, hooked up everything and turned on the PC and everything was fine. For a week or so the PC worked normally and the graphics card was looking great but I couldn't get it out of my HEAD that I really should upgrade my power supply. So I went ahead and purchased a Corsair 650 watt and installed it and again, PC works just fine and dandy.

My question is, does it really make a difference upgrading my power supply from the 250w to 650w? I mean to the UNTRAINED eye like myself I don't see a significant difference, can ANYONE explain why this was needed to upgrade or could I just kept my 250w power supply in to run it. Would there have been DANGERS or PC problems if I hadn't upgraded?

Any info would be appreciated.There are more factors than just the power available from a PSU when considering the computers use for gaming demands. However the power of the PSU is at the top of the list . To help you with that realization here is a link to a specific gaming site forum that gives criteria for some popular games. As well it does talk about the relationship of PSU's to the gaming phenomenon. I suggest if you intend to involve the computer with gaming you would be wise to join (of course in addition to the CH forum) one of the gaming forums. There you will be able to benefit from the knowledge and experience of others that share that interest, truenorth
P.S. To answer your question directly YES the stated minimum PSU is required.
http://www.gamespot.com/pages/forums/show_msgs.php?topic_id=26158044Thanks for the quick and direct answer, I suppose I did the right choice then.

I am not so much into gaming on the PC however there is a game coming out that I wanted to be prepared for and my graphics card at the time, the fan wasn't really working right.. it was off balance and I felt it was time to upgrade anyways. So I bought something that would suit my needs as a casual PC gamer and be great for other future games. Everything runs beautifully and it certainly met my expectations, but like I said I was concerned about the power supply difference and had seen many sites about it that would never fully explain themselves, even those saying it was a myth.

But again, thanks for the replay - it puts me at ease with my decision.You are welcome. I am not certain that you saw my reply with the 'link" in it as i realized i had omitted it and did a "modify" to include it --so you may want to go back again to my reply.truenorthOh I saw it. One of the first links on the site was actually one that got me into the whole video card movement, the "Can You Run It" site. I am glad to see that my PC can now run a lot of the games on there I am interested in.

If I have any further questions on gaming I'll be sure to ASK them then. I was just concerned about my power supply, it was the first time I actually had a GPU hooked up to it, so I was just wondering about the different wattage and such, if it was safe or ruin my PC in the long run if it was still lower than the minimum. But I am glad I upgraded, if need be can carry it over to a new PC, hopefully one I can put build myself.

Thanks again.

ati radeon 9800 agp card with the latest drivers
p4 2.4ghz with 2gb ram running XP Pro sp3

The computer is a newly built with a clean install of xp, the drivers for the video were downloaded from the ATI site (now AMD). Windows is updated as it Essentials.

When running other things the computer is fine, but WOW only lasts about 5-10 minutes and then the computer goes into standby. The power settings have been set to never go into standby so that is not it.

What could be causing this? It is very annoying since this is the replacement computer.What are the power requirements for the video card and what is the power of the installed PSU? Also what are the minimum requirements for the "Wow" program? truenorthHi, the installed psu is 420w, the card pulls about 65-75w and the requirements for WOW (world of warcraft) are:

OS:
Windows XP 32/64-Bit (Service pack 3)
Windows Vista 32/64-Bit (with the latest Service Packs)
Windows 7** 32/64-Bit (with the latest updates)
Processor:
Minimum: Intel Pentium 4 1.3 GHz or AMD Athlon XP 1500+
Recommended: Dual-core processor, such as the Intel Pentium D or AMD Athlon 64 X2

Memory:
Minimum: 512 MB RAM (1GB for Vista users)
Recommended: 1 GB RAM (2 GB for Vista users)
Video:
Minimum: 3D graphics processor with Hardware Transform and Lighting with 32 MB VRAM Such as an ATI Radeon 7200 or NVIDIA GeForce 2 class card or better
Recommended: 3D graphics processor with Vertex and Pixel Shader capability with 128 MB VRAM Such as an ATI Radeon X1600 or NVIDIA GeForce 7600 GT class card or better

Storage: 15 Gigabytes or more free hard drive space is required

Sound: DirectX-compatible sound card or motherboard sound capability

ThanksWhile many of the concerns re SYSTEM requirement for WOW are answered with your latest reply not all are. I guess given that you know your computer's specs the $64,000.00 question is does it (the computer) meet all the spec requirements of the game? It seems to me that there is a deficiency of capacity somewhere if all else work and Wow causes the problem.truenorth


The computer is:

Quote from: Kando on August 09, 2010, 09:29:25 PM

ati radeon 9800 agp card with the latest drivers
p4 2.4ghz with 2gb ram running XP Pro sp3

OS:
Windows XP 32/64-Bit (Service pack 3)

Processor:
Minimum: Intel Pentium 4 1.3 GHz or AMD Athlon XP 1500+
Recommended: Dual-core processor, such as the Intel Pentium D or AMD Athlon 64 X2

Memory:
Minimum: 512 MB RAM (1GB for Vista users)
Recommended: 1 GB RAM (2 GB for Vista users)

Video:
Minimum: 3D graphics processor with Hardware Transform and Lighting with 32 MB VRAM Such as an ATI Radeon 7200 or NVIDIA GeForce 2 class card or better
Recommended: 3D graphics processor with Vertex and Pixel Shader capability with 128 MB VRAM Such as an ATI Radeon X1600 or NVIDIA GeForce 7600 GT class card or better

Storage: 15 Gigabytes or more free hard drive space is required

Sound: DirectX-compatible sound card or motherboard sound capability

So the power supply is not strong enough for the computer? There are two optical drives, would it help if one were uninstalled?

Regards
My PROBLEM is very slow to enter the Windows
Means possible 5 min
Sometimes the computer turns off by itself
As well as computer slow shutdown Please post the specs of the machine.

It may be that the computer is OVERHEATING, but post the specs of the machine and we'll GO from there.

RubiK


If your running windows 7 make sure its activated. Ive heard of activation issues with windows 7. If not that the system may be corrupted or the system is incompatible with windows 7. I READ that ur running windows 7 so if ur not then cant help YA there my windows 7 is activated and Genuine

I have the iPad Nano 7. GB and when I plug it into my computer a window comes up telling me it is the K Drive Removable.

So I am going to copy MUSIC into it but do not see a Folder for music.

I see
Calenders.
Contects.
DCiM.
Notes.
Recordings.

Now this takes Video so I know the Recordings Folder is were it puts the Videos.

So were do I put all my MP3s???I can't get iTunes to install it says there was a prablem and that is all it tell me.
Is there another program I can use to transfer files to my iPOD Nano?Serious, Nymph?

1. There is no iPad Nano
2. There is no 7GB Apple device
3. There is no iPod Nano 7GB

What Apple device do you have?
What OS are you running?
What is the iTunes problem?


If you just want to GO directly to a piece of software (which I DO NOT recommend but you probably wouldn't care), here:
http://www.snapfiles.com/reviews/yamipod/yamipod.htmlIt say on the Box
iPOD Nano


And when I go to iTunes website and download the iTunes program and try to install it it gets almost compleat and then says
iTunes had some prablems installing some components and can not compleate.

That is it.Let's forget about the device for the moment. Your problem is GETTING iTunes installed. Go to the link below. If no joy there, try the Apple Support Forum - it has helped me in the past: http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1926I did all the steps and nothingTry their support forum.

Hi:

I'm upgrading ram in an OLDER LAPTOP.  Ddr266, pc2100, 2.5v, 32x8.  What's in there now is 256mb with "2" latency.  All I can find has "2.5" latency.  So will going from 2 to 2.5 latency WORK?

THANKS.Yeah it should do as long as BIOS supports it and the RIGHT type for the Lappy.I wonder how I can tell what bios supports?--doesn't show in bios setup anywhere.  I suppose I'll just get the new ram and see what happens.  Thanks Tim.No no, don't do that, you may get a saleman who may try to take you for a ride. It will be there somewhere, but the easiest way would be to download this and see what it tells you. If you have Ram that is considered legacy as it were, may not work but try it. Rather you try that than paying even 10pence for something that may not work.

Right my lil sister has a acer aspire 5536 laptop.We had it for about half a year and the charger bit at the end that plugs into the laptop started going black when it should be black.so amazon gave us money to buy a new.this started happening again a few months after so i bought one out my own money from ebay,got the right voltage onea nd make for the laptop and thats started burning the end as well.and then i remember the LAPTOPS a month out of warrenty! and its melted the end on 3 chargers now.Has anyone got any IDEAS wot it might be and like the costs of sorting it if i went to a pc shop? could really use some help asap as SHES 13 and its school holidays lol!Fualty charger. You will to get a direct replacement most likely. Have you got it plugged into a extension cord?Somethings wrong with the laptop if it's burned up 3 AC adapters (i.e., charger).  Contact Acer and tell them the problem & give them the history.  If you're lucky they will have you return it to them for warranty REPAIR.warrentys gone and acer said we can send it to the out of warrenty repairs but its £50 just to send it to them and i aint doin that.tryed extension adapters and just straight into the wall and still the same problem Quote from: sunzzofman on August 12, 2010, 01:13:36 PM

warrentys gone and acer said we can send it to the out of warrenty repairs but its £50 just to send it to them and i aint doin that...

You think the repair shop will be any cheaper?  Not likely.  Laptops aren't generally user repairable, except for adding or replacing memory & hard drive & batteries.  Your only other option is to get another charger and remove the battery to see if that's the culprit that's drawing too much current.  Something in the laptop must be getting hot, too, if it's melting the charger plug.

I was fiddling around with the WIRELESS card in my dell dimension 5150, just to see what it was (i didn't know that it was a wireless card at first). I unconnected it for a second, then put it back in. when i TURNED on my computer, it came up with a screen TELLING me that windows couldn't start properly because of new hardware.
it gave me the options of running in safemode, last good configuration, or normally. I've tried all of the options, each one freezes my computer, i really don't know what is wrong since the card is where it was before, and i haven't CHANGED it out for anything. i use windows xp 32bit.try to check if theres dust or debree in the slotDid you take precautions well handling the Hardware? Like grounding yourself? Quote from: BluerjB on August 10, 2010, 09:32:18 PM

try to check if theres dust or debree in the slot

Did you take precautions well handling the Hardware? Like grounding yourself?

I did'nt see any, although i blew some compressed air in it just to be safe.
 Yes

did you try turning the PC on without the Wireless card?

yes, i tried booting it with and without the card and got the same results

Hi everyone,
I'm at my wits end at the moment! I recently purchased a Gigabyte ATI Radeon HD 5670 1GB video card for my PC, as I grew sick of my outdated Nvidia 8600 GTS card (my goodness it sucks). Anyway, I fit the card, installed the drivers and it worked fine for a few days. Until....
I turned off the computer one evening and went to turn it on the following morning. The GPU fan was spinning very fast and very loudly, which was unusual as it had been so quiet before. What's more, there was no DISPLAY on the monitor!
Now, I went through the steps, perhaps it was the monitor? (I tried the monitor on a different computer, and it worked fine). Eventually I took my PC to a repair shop, to see if the problem was with my PC....the conclusion was that the video card was working intermittently - I had a FAULTY card!
So, I returned the card back to the company I bought it from and they replaced it with a different card (same brand and make).
Once again, I installed the new card and it worked fine again for several days. Bear in mind that during this time, I did not turn off my computer. When I did however, the same problem occurred, loud fan and no signal to the monitor!
So, I resorted back to my old Nvidia 8600 card...and am currently putting up with it.
My question is, what do you think might be the problem?
First I'll give you my specs

OS: Windows 7 32 Bit
RAM: 4GB installed RAM
PSU: 500W
Intel Core 2 Quad CPU 2.40 GHz

Now, according to the manual for the 5670 card, the requirements are some free hard DRIVE space (which I have) and a 400W PSU.....
I don't know if my PSU is insufficient, causing the card not to work....however I succeed the recommended requirements only by 100W though).
Is it possible that by the time the other components of the PC are powered, there is no enough wattage to power the card? (I'm sorry if my hypothesis seems ignorant....it's because I am PRETTY ignorant and uneducated on the topic )

So yes, any idea of what the problem is and what can be done to correct it would be much appreciated!

Cheers

Maybe. Is a generic or a decent branded TP model. You could try working out the power draw for all your components and then get a total that way. You will see if if the power draw of the Graphix. It could just a 12 volt rail that is insufficient.It doesn't look like you are overloading the PSU, but then I can't see the PC. The best thing that I can think of is to try a different PSU and see if it blows up another one.

Actually you state that the computer is left on for long periods and you make it sound unsupervised. Do you have sufficient ventilation in your case? Otherwise it maybe that you are cooking your GPU's.

I am trying to install the new driver for my NVIDIA graphics card, but I can't seem to get it to work. I tried downloading it from both NVIDIA and Toshiba but neither will work. When I use the download from NVIDIA it will run perfectly and even say that the driver has been successfully installed. However whenever I restart and check NVIDIA control panel it still indicates that I have the old driver installed. Whenever I use the download directly from toshiba, it will start the archive extractor process but as soon as it is finished extracting and is supposed to launch the setup, it does not. It will just end right there for no reason. I have tried installing it in safe mode, safe mode with networking etc. but nothing will work. Any suggestions/help is appreciated.

ThanksLaptop drivers should ONLY come direct from the laptop manuf.....Period.

This is TRUE with ALL laptop machines.Windows 7 32-bit or 64-bit?  Are you sure you have downloaded the proper driver for the hardware you have?I'm running Windows 7 64 bit. I first tried downloading it from Toshiba directly, but every time I try this the setup will never launch. This is the only reason I tried the NVIDIA download, as it has worked in the past. However this time neither will work.Re-install your MBoard chipset drivers from the Toshiba Driver CD ...re-boot and retry the Toshiba vid drivers...The GeForce GT 330M  direct from nVIDIA for latest drivers says "...Automatically Find Drivers For My NVIDIA-Powered Notebook...."

http://www.nvidia.com/object/notebook_drivers.html

If you have the incorrect one now, it's going to find the incorrect one there.  You need to select the proper download, not let it automatically find one.

It appears they don't have one:
http://forums.nvidia.com/index.php?showtopic=162180

Try disabling driver signing. Click start and type "gpedit.msc" Under user configuration expand Administrative Templates>System. Click "driver installation". Double click "code signing for device drivers" set to enable then on the drop down chose ignore. Just to make sure it takes effect, restart the computer. Try to re-install said driver. GOOD LUCK! Thanks for everyone's help. Unfortunately I'm all out of ideas Nothing is working!
I CONTACTED Toshiba customer service and they have yet to understand what is wrong with my computer/graphics card. One specialist reccomended I extract all the contents of the update to a temporary folder, and then run the setup from there by clicking the setup.exe. Doing this at least got the setup page to open for the first time, but once everything got started I immediately got this ERROR message, "the nvidia setup program could not detect any drivers that are compatable with your current hardware". I have no idea why it's doing this I have the latest driver installed that was released before the one I'm trying to install. Anyways if anything I said helps with trying to solve the issue, I'll take anything at this point.

Thanks again everyoneHi. Don't feel too bad. I'm having the same problem so I'm guessing it's not just us.

I bought my computer from Office Depot. It's a Toshiba Satellite A665-S6067 with Windows 7 64bit. It has the NVIDIA GeForce GT 330M installed and has an intel i7 processor.

Sounds pretty good right? But as soon as I turned it on it showed me that the display adapter was not working properly. Code 43. I tried downloading all the new drivers and updates I could think of but none would install. I had the exact same problems you did with the toshiba installer and the nvidia one. I'm supposed to have a control panel and all this other good stuff but none of it will install. I just keep installing the same audio drivers over and over with no display. So now I just have to deal with the VGA adapter that adam and eve used and random computer freezing.

I think our best bet is to have Toshiba replace our video cards. It's not like I can boot from a start up disk because my computer didn't come with one and it started off broken already; reinstalling the same stuff will just get me back where i started. NVIDIA basically says on the site that if there are hardware problems to contact the manufacturers (and Toshiba is not even on the dang MANUFACTURER list!) because they probably don't want to be responsible if they tear up SOMETHING in the computer when trying to fix it. I think NVIDIA cards are allergic to Toshiba. -_-

Hi!

I need to get WORK standard PC PSU to work standalone...
this seems that I don't want to CONNECT it to MB, using only PSU and its MOLEX/FDD power supplies.

Can anybody help me?

Many many thanks.

MiroUnder normal circumstances no. In fact even in a Lab I would believe some type of connection is needed.
Not true, when i got my PSU you could test it, before installing it into the machine, by using a paper clip and inserting it into certain colours on the motherboard connector.

Have you been to the manufacturers website??

What is the make and model of the PSU??? and the wattage??Yeah, did not want to point that out as I almost fried myself once, why I said normal circumstances. Pretty certain that you can get plastic cap type things that allow you the loop needed, but don't remember what there called Quote from: reddevilggg on August 12, 2010, 05:48:07 AM

Not true, when i got my PSU you could test it, before installing it into the machine, by using a paper clip and inserting it into certain colours on the motherboard connector...

...Esle one Q: How to do it with AT-power supply?
(have both)...

So, it's not different, the same connections?

(before I'll try it I want to be sure)

Thanks for help, it will be very useful.

Hello,

my packard bell imedia will not boot i just get a red can light on the power button,

it froze while i was transferring files from my laptop, wouldnt do anything so i HELD the power button in until it went off, then tried to boot up but it would just go off after 2seconds, after 2 or 3 more trys the light just went red and light up the can symbol, the fan starts but stops pretty much straight away.

steps taken so far:

stripped everything out of case and disconnected everything,

placed motherboard with just CPU, and cpu fan on smooth wood surface,

connected just psu power cable NOT the cpu power and used screw DRIVER to bridge start and tried it with on/off switch= power on, cpu fan on with constant red light, no display.

then connected cpu power and used screw driver to bridge start and tried it with on/off switch=red light comes on for less than a second the shuts off, no display.
Here's what's needed for a successful POST:

CPU/Fan/MBoard.
1 stik of RAM
PSU
Monitor/mouse and keyboard.
Vid card if needed.

See if this helps...that is contrary to advise GIVEN for diagnosing POST failures!

so what you are saying i need to have the above connected to post as that contadicts the post failure guides i;ve readis it possible ive maxed my hdd and caused a lock up in the bios, i have reset my cmos, 5 days ive been at this now and its starting to look bleak, i cant imagine(or hope lol) that its a major fault with the mobo/cpu as we've only had the pc for 15 months, but i am WILLING to try anything as we are not in a position to purchase another pcThe HDD is not needed to have a machine POST.... Quote from: patio on August 11, 2010, 04:54:33 PM

Here's what's needed for a successful POST:

CPU/Fan/MBoard.
1 stik of RAM
PSU
Monitor/mouse and keyboard.
Vid card if needed.

See if this helps...

I run a thinkpad t60, winxp sp3.

Every now and then (SOMETIMES 2-3 minutes, sometimes every 10-15 minutes) the computer will make a BEEPING sound that is like the "low battery alarm" (although it's connected to AC and not low...).
Also the device connect/disconnect sound goes off at least once a day, although nothing is being connected or disconnected.

Is there a way to check what PROGRAM is causing the beeping? I've updated virus definitions, scanned for spyware/viruses and there are none.
Could be overheating... Quote from: Broni on July 18, 2010, 10:05:29 PM

Could be overheating...

I'm working on a laptop for a guy at work, it's a Dell Inspiron 1525. Specs are:

Intel Core 2 Duo 1.86GHZ processor
2GB DDR2 RAM
160GB HDD
Running Windows Vista Basic

He was having problems with it freezing up and not letting him do anything. So he gave it to me, I ran virus scans, spyware and malware scans and couldn't find anything. So I ran a chkdsk and it found a lot of bad sectors on the HDD. I tried running chkdsk /r and it would make it partway through and then freeze up. So I ended up buying him a new HDD from newegg.com. I install it, and he doesn't have the Windows recovery disk for Vista, so I USED one of my Dell recovery disks for XP instead. He said that XP was fine for him so I went to install XP, pressed "enter" to install XP from the menu and then it brings up a screen that says a hard drive could not be detected. So I checked the BIOS and it SEES the new hard drive I got, but Windows recovery couldn't find a hard drive. So I put the old hard drive in thinking I got a dud from Newegg but it can't find that one either. I haven't changed any settings in the BIOS that would turn off the SATA connection. (The HDD's are SATA). Any ideas on what might be causing this? They need this laptop back soon cause his daughter is using it at school. Thanks for any insight!Don't know if any of the information contained in this ARTICLE is relevant to your situation. However it is very extensive in identifying probable causes and does provide solutions. Give it a look and hopefully it will assist you. There are a number of issues that can cause what you are experiencing.truenorth
http://www.pcguide.com/ts/x/comp/hdd/failSetupDetect-c.html Quote from: beanhead07 on August 14, 2010, 06:22:24 AM

I'm working on a laptop for a guy at work, it's a Dell Inspiron 1525...
I went to install XP, pressed "enter" to install XP from the menu and then it brings up a screen that says a hard drive could not be detected. So I checked the BIOS and it sees the new hard drive I got, but Windows recovery couldn't find a hard drive. So I put the old hard drive in thinking I got a dud from Newegg but it can't find that one either. I haven't changed any settings in the BIOS that would turn off the SATA connection. (The HDD's are SATA). Any ideas on what might be causing this?...

SIR,
      I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH A HDD.THE HDD SHOW  IN BIOS BUT WHEN I TRIED TO INSTALL WINXP
IN  IT, THEN IN PARTITION TIBLE NOT SHOWN PARTITION.WHAT IS THE  PROBLEM?.PLEASE  TELL ME AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.

                                    WITH BEST REGARDS,
                                                                     DEBAPRASAD ROY CHOWDHURYWhat exactly happens when you boot to the XP CD and try to install?

Hello,
thanks in advanced. I have a toshiba laptop and my rt shift does not work. I was able to remap the key before but I cant remember how i did it. I have tried a variety of programs and it looks like it is DONE ACTION wise but the function is not happening. It SAYS I am using the standard 101/102 or microsoft PS, and I have turned off all the filter sticky key options. I am trying to use keytweak right now. after remapping rt shift to pgup this is what raw map is. maybe it can give insite to something wrong. thanks.

Anyone ever OPENED a Toshiba L-25 to replace the BIOS battery? HLP me please. It's for overclocking the CPU and it also doesn't make any MENTION of the CMOS battery, either... but it seems to GUT the entire thing and I'm sure the battery is in there somewhere (shrugs)

http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/ToshibaL25/satellite_L25_laptop_overclocking_1.htm

I doubt this is very helpful, You've probably already FOUND this on your own.

BTW: nice to see you again

This isn't a PROBLEM per se but I am curious.  I changed the power supply as I had no power, no boot.    After that  when I boot,  the pc no LONGER runs through a memory check.  Before I always had to use ESC to halt the process. It MAKES things FASTER but am curious whether it can reinstated.  There is nothing in BIOS to change.Look in bios for "quiet boot" or "silent boot" and disable it.

Since the cooler only has a 3pin power connector. will the motherboard be able to control it by itself.Depends on your board.  Check in the BIOS and/or MANUAL to see if it supports voltage control. Quote from: Calum on August 11, 2010, 11:48:55 AM

Depends on your board.  Check in the BIOS and/or manual to see if it supports voltage control.

Give it a try.

If it works, keep a close eye on the CPU Temp in BIOS. The sensors may read slightly higher than Windows, would be good enough. What CPU have you runnig underneath?

I odn't have it yet im just researching about it.

Oh, I thought you'd bought it ... you gave that impression.
It does sound like the board supports voltage control.

i have a HP dv6000 and whenever I PRESS the power button it lights up then shuts downin about 1/2 a second I've taken the battery out and tried booting it off just the power cord and I've unplugged it and tried with just the battery but I get the same thing. can someone helpIs you laptop RECEIVING power when plug up? Can you get into the bios?If you take off the battery and just use the power plug, does it still have the flashing lights? because if not your charger mighht not be working.It is receiving recieving power without the battery the lights flash and then it shuts down and I don't even get a glance at the bios
Have you upgrade the memory, hardware or software lately?no there have not been any upgradesCan you reset the memory in your laptop?I've done that already and it still does the same thing
If you have two memory sticks try using one at a time to boot up.tried the memory and it's still TURNS off
Can you remove the hard drive and see if anything comes up?Honestly it sound likes it your power supply.I thought so too but its not the charge light comes up on the laptop and stays onand the ac adapter is GETTING powerHave you had any problems with your laptop shutting down on its own? thats what it doing as soon as I press the power button the lights on the keyboard COME on and then it shuts off about a half a second later

I have a Dell Dimension E520, the motherboard is bad, would I beable to install a new one myself? I have replaced hard drives and memories before but never a motherboard. Is it something that I can do or do I have to take into a computer shop? It can be done as a do-it-yourself project.  I believe your FIRST step should be to determine whether that computer accommodates a standard ATX motherboard or whether it requires a PROPRIETARY Dell motherboard. 

References on how to do it:
ILLUSTRATED How to Replace a Motherboard (Removal)
Illustrated How to Install a Motherboard sure you can install motherboard yourself. be sure you GET the proper motherboard for your components you already have. good luck.  It's not a big deal. The hardest part is removing and replacing the cpu - just don't damage the pins. Here's an illustrated, step by step INSTRUCTIONAL: http://www.fonerbooks.com/r_mother.htm

I just recently built one good laptop out of two and I am looking for OS suggestions for it both Windows as well as Linux GUI type. I have 2 hard drives for it and so I was thinking one with Windows and one with a flavor of Linux.

I installed XP SP2 to it and it was a speedy 600mhz until after all the updates that made it crawl. After all the updates, it went from a surprisingly fast laptop to a crawl and wait 30 seconds after clicking situation.

Dell Inspiron 4000
Pentium III 600
192MB Ram
12GB HD
ATI 2X AGP 128MB Video ( GPU Ram isolated from main Ram so it always has 128 )
CD-RW/DVD drive


I also have a linksys pcmcia wireless nic that i would be using for wifi. I had this working perfect under Windows xp sp2, but it might be an issue with the flavor of linux trying to get wifi drivers. Its a Wireless G 2.4 ghz model wpc54g ver 2

Thanks for suggestions, I know the 192MB Ram is a little on the lite side, but it should be plenty hopefully.

ebay has some cheap pc-100 pc-133 sodimm's
With that type of CPU and 192MB of RAM, the best you can do would be Win 2K.Only two distros I think would RUN adequately would be *censored* Small Linux or PUPPY Linux. You could probably get slackware working but configuring a desktop environment that runs adequately would be rather difficult.Thanks for the suggestions. Based on the suggestions, i am going to do 3 things. Since I have 2 hard drives for this laptop that can be swapped out quickly, I am going to go with a Windows 2000 SP4 and a flavor of Linux Dual Boot with grub on one drive, and then the other drive, since XP Pro SP2 runs quick after clean install with about 94MB free of 192MB Ram, but if updated with the 80+ patches and SP3 it starves at 12MB Free, and 3rd, I am going to spend the $20 on ebay to buy another 128mb or 256mb pc-100 or pc-133 sodimm memory stick to bring the RAM up to 256 or 384MB so that it doesnt starve when multitasking as well as maybe a newer Linux distro like Ubuntu 8.04 LTS, 9.x, or 10.04 would run as soon as 256MB ( minimum Ram ) is met. I placed the Ubuntu 10.04 CD in the system and booted and it complained mainly of lack of memory, but eventually got to a desktop 10 MINUTES later after the constant READ of the live distro like features of its try before you install nature.That sounds like a good plan.  I did something similar with my old laptop (PII-333, w/544MB RAM).  Ubuntu wasn't that much faster than Windows, but worked well.  WinXP is pretty slow and almost unusable.  One thing I found that will really slow it down is a not up to date version of Adobe Flash, my PIII-933 desktop got slower than the laptop, until it got updated.I created 2 and a half hours of my 4 hour long, three part cartoon in a K6-2 350Mhz with 512MB of RAM running windows XP, using Flash MX. the XP install itself was completely stripped- I didn't need internet access which was almost surely why it didn't seem that bad at all.

It's amazing what we'll "put up with" though, when it comes to computer responsiveness- when we have to.

I just BUILT a computer and i turned it on When i did it just KEPT turning on and off and the Phase LED's for the CPU Where blinking green yellow and red help?
Diskiddin, WELCOME to the CH forums. Please READ the lead post in this forum and it will assist you to receive the help you seek. "Please read this first" truenorth