Explore topic-wise InterviewSolutions in .

It's an 8 gig 266Hz P2. I'm wondering being that it has 98SE on it if that will cause a problem. I guess I could remove it before I take it out of it's tower or maybe after it's installed into my most recent computer that runs XP. Any ideas? The newer computer is a about a 1.5 GHz if that matters. Is this adding the old drive a good idea? I posted earlier about copying the drive on to a flash drive only to find out that 98SE doesn't recognize the 2.0 flash drives (1.1).If your reason for doing the transfer is to just gain more HDD capacity you certainly aren't going to achieve much with an 8 gb HD. There are flash drives available with 64gb (and maybe more since i last checked) However if you do not have any data on the 8 gb that you want to SAVE your best results will be achieved by removing all the data on it which can be achieved by reformatting it--then install it in your other computer.Assuming an IDE HD don't forget to set the pins to "slave". truenorthThanks for the response, the main reason I want to transfer it being that I can't copy it is because it has some things I enjoy still on it. Please do not take offense if this information is too basic for what you want to do. However not knowing your level of expertise i am including it as it is a very clear explanation of what you want to do (with all the proper cautions as well). Nothing appears to have been forgotten in the instructions. Good luck,truenorth
http://forums.cnet.com/5208-10149_102-0.html?threadID=125650I appreciate your response and article but after barely getting into the article i see something that disturbs me. The fact of not leaving the computer plugged in (while off) to absorb any static ELECTRICITY (to ground) is tabboo. After seeing that, the rest of the article may be suspect because of the lack of knowledge about leaving the computer plugged in. BTW, the rest of the article looks like a realistic procedure that would work.http://www.ehow.com/video_6030_install-second-hard.html Quote from: Computer_Commando on August 12, 2010, 01:36:05 PM

http://www.ehow.com/video_6030_install-second-hard.html

BTW, I always unplug both computers, but then again, I am an ESD expert and it's all 2nd nature to me.  ESD (Electro Static Discharge) has nothing to do with grounding.  It has everything to do with putting your body at the same Electrical Potential as the computer.  It's easier to say "grounding" because most can understand that.

Bubba, C-C's video is also good as it visualizes the steps indicated in my link. However i found it a bit simplistic and too fast for in inexperienced 2nd HDD installer. I did not read all of my link's discourse as i have performed this task many times. However since you expressed some concern re the "plugged" in issue. I don't see what caused you concern in that area. As C-C has stated i too also always unplug the computer when going into it's innards and the reference in C-C's video to "grounding" is also a necessary precaution (or a ground strap). It is certainly a procedure that is relatively easy with the precautions re static electricity (which can damage the computer) and as stated ensuring that power is disconnected as that can damage you. truenorth

I appreciate your response and article but after barely getting into the article i see something that disturbs me. The fact of not leaving the computer plugged in (while off) to absorb any static electricity (to ground) is tabboo. After seeing that, the rest of the article may be suspect because of the lack of knowledge about leaving the computer plugged in. BTW, the rest of the article looks like a realistic procedure that would work.

My laptop wont DISPLAY anything. The screen itself does not even power on but everything else powers on. has 4 gb of ram but they still work. My laptop has no hard drive. Would that be the culprit? Quote from: chishio8 on August 15, 2010, 10:38:24 PM

My laptop has no hard drive. Would that be the culprit?

How GOOD is the celeron m? is it dual cored?GO here and have a look.

http://search.intel.com/default.aspx?method=text&c=en_US&q=celeron%20m

Alan &LT;&GT;<

I currently have a Vusys 17" VGA monitor with a resolution at 1280x1024.

I was thinking of getting a new monitor and say this monitor:
http://www.dabs.com/products/samsung-syncmaster-2333sw-23--widescreen-1920-x-1080-5ms-dvi-d-vga-lcd-monitor-5FNF.html

It's a 23" Monitor, 1920x1080 resolution and has a DVI and a VGA input, at £135.

It seems like a good deal to me, and from what I've HEARD Samsung is a good brand.

So what I'm asking is, should I get this monitor or is there a better monitor out there? Quote from: WyattSoft on August 15, 2010, 05:54:46 PM

I currently have a Vusys 17" VGA monitor with a resolution at 1280x1024.

I was thinking of getting a new monitor and say this monitor:
http://www.dabs.com/products/samsung-syncmaster-2333sw-23--widescreen-1920-x-1080-5ms-dvi-d-vga-lcd-monitor-5FNF.html

It's a 23" Monitor, 1920x1080 resolution and has a DVI and a VGA input, at £135.

It seems like a good deal to me, and from what I've heard Samsung is a good brand.


So what I'm asking is, should I get this monitor or is there a better monitor out there?

Hmm, also found this other Samsung Monitor, only a tad more expensive.

http://www.dabs.com/products/samsung-syncmaster-b2430l-23-6--widescreen-1920-x-1080-5ms-dvi-d-vga-lcd-monitor-7394.html

Seems to be the same but an extra .6" display size. Am I right?

As I mentioned in another post about coyping a hard drive from an older computer a problem has arose. I thought there would be options as to which operating system I could boot up from either XP or 98SE. It doesn't show an option in the start-up and recovery section of the system nor when booting up and clicking F8 did it either. I was wanting to look at the programs listed to see which software discs to include if I sold the computer. I'll google around while waiting for someone to respond.No idea what you did or how you did it. Why not explain the whole story?I think you thought that by making a copy of the Disk running 98SE, that would give you the optoin of a dual boot OS. That what you mean?. As the mod has said, can you elaborate on what you mean. Copy overwrites copy. Did you ghost the old drive or just copy some app files or SOMETHING like that?? Quote from: Tim_Cdy on August 15, 2010, 10:16:36 AM

I think you thought that by making a copy of the Disk running 98SE, that would give you the optoin of a dual boot OS. That what you mean?. As the mod has said, can you elaborate on what you mean. Copy overwrites copy. Did you ghost the old drive or just copy some app files or something like that??

... I thought there would be options as to which operating system I could boot up from either XP or 98SE. It doesn't show an option in the start-up and recovery section of the system nor when booting up and clicking F8 did it either. I was wanting to look at the programs listed to see which software discs to include if I sold the computer...

You guys argue it out and let me know what's right, I can't find anything tangible googling.

...I can't find anything tangible googling.

What do you think of this article?

http://www.pcworld.com/article/141614/faq_secrets_to_running_multiple_operating_systems.html

Good article but it does not pertain to your situation.  The article explains how to create a dual-boot configuration by *installing* two OS on a computer.  You did not do that.  You simply transferred a hard drive with Win 98SE from an older computer to a newer computer.  You did not install Win 98SE in the new computer.  Do you understand that?

If you succeeded in booting from Win 98SE, do you think the computer would boot right up without problems?  Not very likely.  Win 98SE does not have the proper device drivers for the new computer because Win 98SE was installed on a different computer.

Hoping I didn't just ruin my MOBO.

Using a logitech usb controller connected to a back mobo usb slot (playstation style) my computer
instantly turned off after using it for a minute. In the past I noticed it (the controller and connector usb) got very hot when plugged into a usb port that was connected to a pci-e slot addon.

I know that was an obvious warning... but I wanted to play some final fantasy. Initially after this occurred, my computer would turn on (I would hear the fans start up) then stop completely for a few seconds, before turning on again. Now upon starting it up the fans come on and stay on which I thought was an odd change. During all this I nothing has come up on the monitor (i've used a different monitor/connector too.)

Tomorrow I'll probably open it up and try to sure up all the connections but it seems odd to me that the fans come on and spin as NORMAL but I can't get any sort of post on SCREEN.

If anyone has a TIP or a "yea your mobo is dead" it would be appreciated.

-thanks -btw I have an ASUS P5Q PRO mobo, not that I think it'd matter Quote

Hoping I didn't just ruin my mobo

but it seems odd to me that the fans come on and spin as normal but I can't get any sort of post on screen.

I have a Intel core 2 Duo E5300 its on 800Mhz FSB is there a way of increasing this becasue my motherboard is a Asus p5kpl-cm and its capable of 1600/1333MHz. This most likely will have something to do with overclocking unless the FSB is totally limited or not even POSSIBLE to be made faster.

And another thing the OC menu on my BIOS say's i can overclock the processor to 30% but when i do save the setting the computer just shuts down and waits for me to turn it back on. once on the clock is back to stock. Is it just that my Processor cant take it?
ThanksAll the info on OC'ing is at the ASUS site...
If it reverts back to defaults on reboot you're doing something wrong.The "OC menu" sounds LIKE auto-overclocking, I'm not surprised it doesn't work.
Your chip has a default FSB of 800MHz, anything above this is overclocking.  As patio says, if you can't raise it you're doing something wrong.There probably won't be much of a headroom in overclocking this. It is likely that the autotool (these really are that SHITE btw) is not taking into ACCOUNT the volt changes that may need to be applied.

The speed capabillitys of this mobo would be better served by buying a bigger CPU. Not worth you risking it imho. Quote from: patio on August 14, 2010, 08:30:54 AM

All the info on OC'ing is at the ASUS site...
If it reverts back to defaults on reboot you're doing something wrong.

I have lived with the killer white noise long enough, and I think its about time I asked for advice.  It seems my computer will not stop giving off a low static noise that can be easily ignored while listening to music or videos, but between songs and while navigating its impossible to shut out.

Here are some of the observations i have made on my own or while looking through other posts:
-The noise happens regardless of volume. weather its low or muted the static will stay.
-The static seems to get louder when I go through specific actions. (mouse movements and STARTING WINDOWS media player seem to cause the most consistent changes)
-Out of the two audio out ports the one in the front of the pc seems to have it worse. I would use the rear one but the headphone chord is too short.
-I can sometimes hear, what i believe to be, the hard drive spinning in my headphones (usual when I open WMP)

Im not sure what the cause could be, but Im hoping it will be easy to fix. As of now the only theorys I could come up with were that I might be ABLE to blame something along the lines of poor wiring. If that is true Im not sure I can do anything about it myself.

I hope the info is helpful enough to narrow the possibilities, and thank you for your help.Does this only happen with headphones? Do you have external speakers connected and if so do you hear the sound through them? Is this a Desktop or a Laptop? Quote from: Tim_Cdy on August 12, 2010, 10:20:29 AM

Is this a Desktop or a Laptop?

-Out of the two audio out ports the one in the front of the pc seems to have it worse. I would use the rear one but the headphone chord is too short.

Unless it's the world's largest laptop............

-The static seems to get louder when I go through specific actions. (mouse movements and starting windows media player seem to cause the most consistent changes)

No sound on my vista LAPTOP. Had to force shut down my computer cause it froze and then when i turned it back on i had no sound with an X over my speaker symbol. Under device MANAGER there is no Sound Video And Game Controllers option. Another weird thing is that when i turn my computer on for the first time in the MORNING, the audio works fine with the sound video and games CONTROLS option in device manager. But after a few minutes the sound stops working and after i restart my computer the computer will have no sound and the red x over the speaker and the sound video and games control is not present in device manager. This problem had been very frustrating and if you can help me solve this i will be extremely happy.

I have an old 286 DOS comp at work that the backup battery died on. As a result when I started it up today I got the message I had to run setup ... which I did. I have no record of the settings so I tried the Auto feature but it did nothing but hang. Next I tried to manually install the HD stats by referring to a list of possibilities when I pressed F1, I think. There was about 40 choices so I thought I'll just go through them one by one and hopefully hit the right one. I did this a couple of times since it wouldn't boot ... just told me I had to run setup again. Now when it boots after it does it's memory check I get a "Non system disc error" and to remove the disc and put the right disc in. I've tried various key combos trying to get back into "Setup" but no go.

I have since taken the HD out, got the numbers off it, went on line and got the SPECS for it. If I could just get back into Setup to install the correct specs it may work. I wouldn't MESS with it normally but I have some old machines that I use this computer to "talk" to and would like to extend their usefulness awhile longer.

Thanks

TSReplace the CMOS battery...part #CR2032...available anywhere.
Do this with EVERYTHING unplugged.Thanks for the tip but there is no CMOS battery in this machine. It has 4 AA batteries as it's "back-up" power. And replacing them made no difference.
Anyway .. I did solve the problem and for those that may encounter a similar problem may want to give this a try.
Since I suspected the HD was causing the problem, and I figured I had nothing to LOOSE, I turned the comp off and pulled the ribbon cable off the back of the HD.  I left the power connector hooked up.  I restarted and, as I expected, I got a HD failure error message. One of the corrective suggestions was to run set-up by pressing F2.  That's what I've been looking for. I went into set-up and changed the HD type to the one I got off the HD manufactures website. I also needed to change one of the floppy drive settings as well.
I saved the settings and very carefully plugged the ribbon cable back into the HD.  I rebooted and everything came up as if nothing had happened. Now I have some breathing ROOM while I get my older production machines up-graded to newer  controls.

TS

Hi there,

I have a HP a6650f PC and want to upgrade its graphic card.
I looked at the resolution properties and the graphic card being used is a NVIDIA GeForce 6150E nForce 430.

What kind of connection is it so I can LOOK to BUY another one?

ThanksYour present video graphics are integrated into the motherboard. To upgrade your video graphics you will need to purchase a separate PCI Express graphics card. There are three different card bus types. They are PCI, AGP, and PCI EXPRESS. Open your case and compare the attached photo to your motherboard expansion bus slots to make sure you get the right one. ALSO CHECK to make sure your power supply is large enough to power the new card.

[recovering disk space - old attachment deleted by admin]what do you want to do on your computer? Do you play games? Or is it for websurfing and emailing only? Or Video making?

Then you find out what graphics card is best suited for your purposes, 'cuz getting a better graphics card than you really need is probably overkill unless you want the upgrade so you don't need it in the future.

I'm considering installing a blu-ray burner.  I have heard that many persons installing such burners encounter significant PROBLEMS with the process.  In order to avoid these problems, I'm ASKING for advice from anyone who has completed the process successfully. 

I have an HP d4990y quad core, 32 bit, 2.4 ghz machine, with 3.3 gb RAM; Creative SB X-fi add-in sound card, 1400 x 900 19" HP widescreen monitor;  nVidia GeForce 8500 GT graphics, with HDMI out (I have a hardwired HDMI connection to my sound system's A/V Receiver, and have no problem with display of any computer output to my HDTV and surround sound system).  I use this machine for standard definition video and audio editing, but will probably hold off on HD editing until I can buy a newer, much more powerful six core machine.  (Maybe I should hold off on the blu-ray burner until that time...?)

Any specific suggestions regarding installing a blu-ray burner will be greatly appreciated.What kind of problems? It's no different from a CD or dvd player / burner. Just pick one and INSTALL it. Next.

Hi all,

MY PC is running XP SP2 with a P4 3GHZ CPU and a 1GB RAM.
It is using ATI RADEON 9200 PRO (AGP 8X) which I purcahsed LAST year to replace my
DAMAGED ATI RADEON 9550.

Now let's move on to what's happened to my PC:
Recently I was doing some graphics editing work in Firework CS4 when suddenly
a yellow light just flashed across the PC monitor, and then the windows freezed.
I turned off my PC and tried to turn it on but the HDD light kept flashing, and the monitor showed nothing.
Later I opened my PC case, turned on my PC,
and I could go to the Desktop successfully.

I am not sure if the yellow light is any sign showing my PC graphic card damaged?
and
WIll it HELP cool the temperature of my PC if I open the PC case?

Please help if you could.
Sounds like your graphics card overheated.   You need to leave the side on your case to allow the FANS to move air through the case.  You might add more fans or get a graphics card with a fan on the GPU.  Hope this helps.

I now got itunes to work with my ipod nano and aded mp3 files to the itunes.

Now I don't know how to get them from itunes to ipod do I drag them to were in the itunes??If i might suggest an introduction to a web search engine that is extremely popular. It is called"Google". My search on your behalf resulted in your solution as item #1 of countless answers to the question.
http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/consumer_electronics/ipod_faq/transfer-music-from-computer-to-ipod-between-computers.html
While most of us on the CH forums make every effort to HELP other members we reasonably (i believe) feel that members should first endeavor to "help themselves" before posting their issue. Does that sound fair to you? truenorthYour've basically got it anyways, iTunes is just a bit messy...

Once connected your ipod to the computer, iTunes should pickup on it.
You might have to go through updating iTunes and your iPod software.

iTunes should sync with your iPod. Scary!

I uncheck "automatically update music" because I like to CONTROL what happens to my iPod and computer manually rather than have THINGS magically occur! You may find that having iTunes sync your iPod automatically is on and works better for you?

Under the "Library" link on the left column, you'll SEE what albums or music you've ripped or copied into your iTunes library. If you haven't ripped any CDs, put one into your computer and CLICK on the "Import" button in iTunes that'll show up.

You can create playlists on your computer which sync up to your ipod or simply select what song(s) you want and drag/drop them onto the name of the iPod on the left side.


OK it works

I wanted to try winamp with  ipod  so first I go into i tunes and select my ipod and then take check out of  use itunes every time.
Then I put check in Enable *censored* Use.

Then I go into winamp and click Portables.
But nothing drops down undr it I sould see my ipod.

So I go into winamp setting and go under Portables and on the right hand side is all the Plug ins.
So I click on ipod plug in.

Then click configure tab.  And a window tells me
This plug in has no Configureation inabled?Will you PLEASE stop with the emoticons? Thank you.Check the drivers for your iPod are working, when connected to should show up as another device under 'My Computer'. So connect the iPod and check the drive letter appears.

Download the latest WinAMP if not already,
With 'custom' install there is a 'Portable Media Player Support' tick option which has 'iPod Suppot' ensure thats ticked. I think standard install does this anyway, but make sure it's installed.

Open WinAMP, after the iPod is connected.

In the left column of the Media Library window, you should have a 'Portables List' with your iPod Name under it, select that. You should be able to see your iPod Content.

If that's all working...

Under your music playlist select one or more songs and right-click > Send to: > IPOD.


my winamp verson is  5.581

and my drivers are working because I can drag and drop files to ipod like a drive.

And it is drive k:

I would appreciate any advice...The first problem that appeared with my pc was my modem quit working. A few days later my mouse quit working. While I was in control panel TRYING to add another mouse, my LCD screen went blank. I turned the LCD off and on again--the LCD brand logo appeared, then nothing. But my pc was still on. Is this a motherboard or power supply problem? Thanks for the help! There are two ways of going about testing the power supply.. You can swap in a supply of equal or greater wattage and if the problems go away, then you've found the culprit.  If problems PERSIST, then the board is likely the problem.

The other way is finding a voltmeter and testing the psu DIRECTLY.  If the values measured fall within +/- 5% of the voltages specified then you know the psu is the culprit..

See here for the break down of the voltage pinout of the psu..

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ATX


Don't bother with the negative voltages

edit: make sure the computer is on, if you decide to TEST the voltages with a voltmeterI'm almost positive that it's not the PSU.  I would replace the motherboard with a known good one first.  Power supplies will FREEZE your computer if it's going out.

Sooooo my friends nephew was playing on my computer and GOT in my bios and apparently changed it some.
That is the only thing he did according to him. He said SOMETHING said aggressive.


So I have tried moving the jumper and it still isn't working. I also have tried the battery. I read that I may need to leave it out overnight, but I kind of doubted that.

When it TRIES to start it does 3 long beeps and just runs. The monitor doesn't display anything or react at all.

Am I doing something wrong?
I think I may have put the jumper on the wrong prongs for a moment. Would that kill it? lol.

Well I am really just hoping the computer is fixable. I really don't want to have to get a NEW one right now. Plus it had many many important things on it.

The comp is a emachine t5226

3.0 GHz
800MHz FSB 2 x MB L2 Cache

hardrive:
250 GB SATA II

Vista as well.

This is my work comp and it would be really nice to have it working lol.

Thanks in advance for anyone who helps It is always appreciated. When you removed the battery did you remember to unplug the machine completely and hit the on/off switch a few times ? ?I unplugged it completely I am not sure if I hit the on/off buttons a few times. I don't think I did, but I did have it compeltely unplugged. Quote

When it tries to start it does 3 long beeps and just runs. The monitor doesn't display anything or react at all.

I have APC Back-UPS ES 650Y-IN. My PC is dual-booted with Windows XP SP3 32-bit and Windows 7 64-bit. The APC PowerChute Personal Edition 2.2 works fine in Windows 7. It can gracefully hibernate/shutdown the PC as per the runtime settings in the software. But the APC PowerChute Personal Edition 2.0 in Windows XP is unable to gracefully hibernate/shutdown the PC as per the runtime settings in the software. I have disabled several services in Windows XP. Could this be the reason? On which services the software has DEPENDENCY? Or could it be due to some bad drivers?

Besides, can the PC resumes from hibernation when AC POWER comes back? If so, what settings are required?To the best of my knowledge, the CONSUMER version of Powerchute is only designed to do an orderly shut down of a computer, not TURN it back on when AC power is restored.  I've got a APC UPS and have powerChute installed, but don't use it.

I am GOING to start a new business of computer hardware.And i want to some suggestions  that this decision is GOOD or not? Given the gross inadequacy of the information provided the very best advice i would give you at this point it to TOTALLY ignore anyone that says you "should" do it or the you "should not" do it. You need to evaluate your market potentials,you need to do a cost analysis of the startup costs and capital return potential in addition to MANY other things. In other words you need to develop a business plan. Once you have done that then you will NOT need to come on a forum and ask such an inappropriate question. truenorthI completely agree with truenorth.  But, just wondering, what do you mean by "business of computer hardware"?  Do you mean selling hardware, repairing computers, or what? A businessman from 1927 now getting into PC hardware? . You may be just a tad late.   OH! By the way, welcome to CH.

As I have posted before, I have an eMachine 3400W desktop computer. I look under my computer on my desktop and the memory is low on my D drive, which was the secondary HARD drive install in the computer factory set. But I also noticed when I installed ANOTHER hard drive into the computer, there was actually only one hd so I'm thinking it's in with the c drive as well. Anyway, the capacity is 3.29 GB but free space is459 MB. MEANWHILE I can't save files onto it or even open it as it's the recovery partiation. I have ran disk clean up, defragmentation, and it says there is no files in it. My question is why is the memory going down in it, and would I be able to format it safely? Thank you very much.It's a hidden recovery partition and is best left alone...
It's not there to have files saved to it.I know not to save files on it, which I haven't. I just want to know why the used portion is low and making there only 459 MB of the 3 GB unsued. What could be the problem with it?That's how it's set up...Free space on a disk or partition is only to be used by saving files to it.  As yours is the recovery partition, you don't really need any free space in it at all, it just needs to be as BIG as the data it uses.  Yes, your D drive is a partition of the one drive and C is most likely the remaining space.  If you don't have a recovery disk, don't mess with this data or you'll lose the option of RETURNING the computer back to factory specs.  There is no problem with this partition.

not sure what area this really belongs in, so i put it here. Can anybody help me figure out how to get a FIRMWARE update for my westell modem E90-610014-06. I heard that was probably the problem with my connection dropping out randomly and very SLOW connection (actual download speed of about 30kbps on a line that is supposed to be 10.0 Mbps). And if somebody thinks there MIGHT be a different problem, that would be nice to know as well. I'm using vista, if that helps at all, and it cuts out while using Firefox and Internet explorer.Do you have only one computer connected to the modem?  If so, you might swap your NIC card with a known good one and MAKE sure your driver is UPDATED.  If it is the firmware, go to your ISP's site or the manufacturer's site and get the latest firmware update and follow their instructions on how to install it.  I'd check to see if your ISP provides replacement modems free of charge....most do.

I have a 2GB Toshiba USB FLASH drive and has been working properly since last week (able to copy to and from the drive, amend or delete files on the drive.

Yesterday, I copy so many files about 0.8 GB to the drive from C drive and suddenly stop file COPYING and then the drive does not allow to copy files to the drive or amend the file in the drive, but able to copy the file out to c drive.  An indication is shown the device is write protected meaning the drive become useless.  Using format under DOS environment, the drive not allow to perform the execution  (format f: ).

Pl help me if possible your expertise's experience to solve it thanks a lot

Some USB flash drives have a small BUTTON which write protects them, if there is one on your flash drive, have you accidentally engaged it.

If I make two Partitions on a HARD drive both partitions will be called two primary partitions right??

But if I take the second primary PARTITION and make it into one more partition that partition will be called the Extanded partition am I right?No. You are wrong.If you're hard drive is SET up for "Basic", not "dynamic", the STANDARD is that you can have up to 4 primary partitions, or 3 primary partitions w/ one extended partition, divided into as many "logical drives" as you WANT..


edit: with respect to the "logical drives", as many as you want assuming drive letters are available for them..This is what I ment if I have 4. partitions on my drive they will all be 4 Primary partitions.

But I can only way I have an extened partition is to just have 3. primary partitions and then make the 3. partition Divid again. This will be the extended part.

Can you connect any kind of pci express card to a pci-express x 16 slot

As long as they are x16 cards they are both compatible with x16, despite the Manufacturer.

You may want to refer to the board manual, but I think if you want to use a single vid. card in a cross fire/SLI board, you have to use a determined slot..ie: only one of the two slots will work for single card setup....  Might want to double check on that as I said

My laptop computer works FINE when pluged in but once i disconnect the AC power cord the computer shuts off. I checked the battery it says 100% charged.  Can the battery still be the problem eventhough it says its fully  charged?

RICHyour battery sounds like it is dead.
Contact Acer.How old is the battery?  Do you sometimes run on battery (with main cord UNPLUGGED)?  Has the run time when running on battery been getting very short in recent months? 

Will your computer run off the power cord, with the battery out?  If so, then at least you can use the computer while looking for a NEW battery.Yes the computer works fine with battery in or out as long as i keep it plugged in.  I figured it was the battery just wasnt sure since it tells me the battery is 100% charged

RichChange your battery.
If you still have warranty left , contact your vendor for a replacement
your battery sounds dead dude

         
Links Removed
Stop spamming.Still not answered: How old is the battery? i have heard that ever time you use a laptops battery (when it is unplugged) it makes it weaker have you used it alot in the pass unplugged?The battery is about 2 YEARS olddid you use it unplugged alot  when the battery was working ?Not at all.  I have it plugged most of the time.Well, depending on average daily hours of usage and usage pattern, which is what silverpersian is alluding to, two years may be the life expectancy for a laptop battery.

The fact that your computer says the battery is fully charged is misleading; that doesn't necessarily mean the battery is still capable of running the computer. I have 3 year old Compaq laptop for which I still have the original battery, and I have a FAIRLY new battery I bought about 6 months ago, as I recall.  The old battery (will computer unplugged) will still run the computer but will only run it for about 16 minutes, starting from a "100%" charge.  The newer battery will, of course, run the computer much longer from a full charge.

So, what you're seeing is basically 100% of near-zero capacity.  Does that make sense?

Tip on where to buy a battery: I bought mine from Amazon.com for only about $30. Be sure to get one that's right for your model computer.

Edit: by the way, you can extend the life of your battery by leaving it out part of the time and running directly off power from a wall outlet. But, don't leave it out for weeks at a time.How to prolong lithium-based batteries

hi plz anybody help me i cant play h264 video files smoothly.my system cpu usage shoots to 100% despite the fact that my system is not that old.my frnds with much lower system specs then my pc play these files very smooth.here is my system specifications.

PROCESSOR: X86 FAMILY 15 MODEL 2 STEPPING 9 GENUINEINTEL~2591 Mhz
BIOS VERSION: PHOENIX TECHNOLOGIES LTD R0108K7,8/13/2003
TOTAL PHYSICAL MEMORY : 1 GB
HDD : 120 GB.


PLZ help me some one. Here is an answer given for your problem :It was obtained from this source"http://www.codecguide.com/faq_playback_issues.htm
Q:   The CPU usage is very high during video playback, any tips on how I can lower it?
A:   
Video playback can require a lot of processing power, certainly when the video has a high resolution (720p/1080p/1080i). Some video formats, such as H.264, are very complex to decode.

Some tips to lower the CPU usage are:
Use a more efficient decoder (if any exists). For H.264 video some fast decoders are mentioned further down below.
Enable the "Pre-buffer subpictures" option in the DirectVobSub subtitle filter. That lowers CPU usage a bit. Animated subtitles (such as found in some anime videos) may not DISPLAY correctly with this option enabled, but such subtitles are very rare.
Disable the display of subtitles.
Disable resizing, and also any other post-processing filters that you MIGHT have enabled in ffdshow.
If you have forced ffdshow to always output RGB32, then allow it output in the YV12 and YUY2 colorspaces.
Use the Overlay Mixer renderer. This video renderer uses a bit less CPU cycles than other renderers.
Don't play the video full screen. That leads to resizing.
Close other programs that are also running on your computer that use a lot of CPU cycles. For example P2P programs.
For H.264 video, you could enable the skip deblocking option in ffdshow. You can find that option on the Codecs page in ffdshow video decoder configuration. It is located near the bottom of the window when you select H.264. Be aware that enabling this option leads to reduced video quality. In some cases it has only a minimal impact on quality, but sometimes it can lead to significant blocking and other decoding artifacts. We do not recommend enabling it.

If the video that you are playing contains H.264 video, then you could try using another decoder. The codec pack by default uses ffdshow for decoding H.264 video. This is a free and open-source decoder. Other decoders exist that have better performance as ffdshow. They should give you smoother playback, specially if you have a dual-core or quad-core processor.

Alternative H.264 decoders are:
CoreAVC. This decoder is UNFORTUNATELY not available for free.
DivX H.264 decoder. This decoder is available for free as part of the DivX Bundle. Tip: disable everything in the bundle except the H.264 decoder.
ffmpeg-mt. This is an experimental multi-threaded version of the libavcodec decoding library, which is used by ffdshow. You can select ffmpeg-mt as decoder in ffdshow video decoder configuration.
MPC DXVA H.264 decoder. This is an internal decoder of Media Player Classic Homecinema. It uses your graphics card to perform most of the decoding process, resulting is a very low CPU usage. You can enable this decoder though: MPC Options -> Internal Filters. Note: this decoder has some specific requirements.
    Not knowing which media player you are endeavoring to play these videos on there seems to be a consensus from my research that "VLC" media player deals with this format more effectively than most others. It is a free  software DOWNLOAD. I suggest that you give it a try. truenorth I'd check your friend's media player and settings to see if you can DUPLICATE it and get your media to play.  Also as the person above suggested, get the latest codecs.  Hope this helps. I only have a 2.0 Gig CPU and there's nothing I can't play.You don't mention what video card you have, or if it's on board video.  Also, it wouldn't hurt to add another 1GB of RAM.

My first guess would be that it's a problem with your video card, but without knowing more about what you have got it's impossible to tell.i have instelled core AVC full version with media player classic but i does not help alot.
and my video card is RADEON IGP 345M
with 128 MB adapter RAM.

Hi.
ive got a tough problem while watching or streaming videos after a few min. the computer turns of and getting blue screen with annoying noise - about any hardware or software recently installed - i should uninstall it  (0x00000002) (0x00000000) (0x88888888) (0x804ffc87) something like that. ive reinstalled windows and drivers CLEAN FORMATTED HARD DRIVE but still nothing.     What is the EXACT blue screen error message?Hi i'm sorry i realized now that it is also happening while not watching any videos. and now it's going very fast it flashes the screen and reboots. Ive just plugged out the laptop and i got it twice.
But i can GIVE you the "error report signatures",  and the "technical information about this error".
Error Signature.
BCCode : 1000007e     BCP1 : C0000005     BCP2 : AE3A5BC4     BCP3 : B0991B48
BCP4 : B0991844     OSVer : 5_1_2600     SP : 3_0     Product : 256_1   
And technical information about this error" are two files attached

[RECOVERING disk space - old attachment deleted by admin]Go to System Properties - Advanced - Startup &AMP; Recovery Settings and uncheck "Automatically Restart". Unless the problem is hardware related, the blue screen will REMAIN up next time. Please copy the error message here.Hi
I did what you told me, i double checked and "auto restart" is disabled, but now it is just giving a black scrn for a second and rebooting. and it started happening very often every few min. in any situation!!!
PLEASE HELP ME!!!Ive got some PICTURES. once Ive got one type and the another so they are two type pics

picture 1  http://www.megaupload.com/?d=LAQ20M9Q
picture 2  http://www.megaupload.com/?d=7H1O0HUD

or zip of both.
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=ROKT8SIE

hello sir,

please connect usb cable & sound cable on motherboard 

Alan <>< Quote from: pednekarhd on August 17, 2010, 05:02:03 AM

hello sir,

please connect usb cable & sound cable on motherboard

Nope, just have to deal with this enough with other people to realize, what he maybe talking about.

Let's not get into Donkeys....

Hi all,
been having problems with my Geforce 7950 GT Graphics Card and have been looking for a replacement
but not knowing anything about them I have no idea what I am looking at....I use it for photo work and
the odd game.
Can anyone point me to a good middle of the road card PLEASE.

Thanks

NedI hvae a 9500GT graphics card. It does fine if your odd game is in the realm of Age of Empires 3.

But first, please find out what kind of PSU you have (the wattage, and the 12V rail(s) voltage) and then it'll be easier to find out what card you can get.Hi,
The paperwork reads......
Hiper power 530W truepower power supply - SLI ready.

 

Ned

ps what is SLI ready
 SLI enables you to run 2 vid cards in one system...
In parallel. Quote from: patio on August 15, 2010, 09:22:06 AM

SLI enables you to run 2 vid cards in one system...
In parallel.

Thanks for that,
But why would you do that, wouldn't  be better to buy a better card in the first place !!!!

Ned   

you might want to search Newegg

I am in the UK...............not sure it's worth it with the import taxes etc.

Thanks anyway
Ned

SLI enables you to run 2 vid cards in one system...
In parallel.

I believe the GPU's have to be the same...

I believe the GPU's have to be the same...

I unfortunately have a Dell Inspiron E5105 - My AC adapter / power supply stopped charging completely for the 4th time and the computer is near dead and the charger wont make connection with the computer.

I have replaced the AC Adapter 3 times, the battery once, and paid Dell 500 bucks to replace the mother board (well supposedly they did - the computer stopped charging again less than 5 months after the mother board was installed and I had purchased a new adapter).  I see complaints of the same issue all over the internet, and people stating it's an ongoing Dell Computer issue. I even found a class action suit against them for this very problem.

Anyways, at this point I've invested more than the price of the laptop into repairs, and it's time for a new laptop. 

The hard drive is still in perfect tact, so is there such a thing as buying a computer without a hard drive and just installing mine to save money?

And if so, can it be something besides a Dell? I never want to buy their crap again or have to deal with their nonexistent tech support!

This may be the dumbest question ever, but I'm sooo broke, and any way I can save money would be lifesaving.You will not save that much money buying a laptop minus the HDD...
Putting your HDD into another laptop will most likely not work...i doubt the new machine would even boot up.
If it's XP or Vista you would need to clone the old drive to the new drive and then run a Repair Install to get it to work properly.To endeavor to help you in your quest for a RELIABLE replacement i will give you a few sources of supposed "expert" opinions (hopefully the reasons will be explained adequately as to the choices made). It would help if you also assess your own personal needs. IE: Screen size,weight,ruggedness,operating system,etc which should then help you to narrow down the choices. I certainly feel your pain re your experience with DEll.
http://www.thelaptopauthority.com/
http://computers.toptenreviews.com/laptops/
http://www.laptopadvisor.com/
http://www.pcworld.com/products/computers/laptops.html
Good luck,truenorth Quote from: prettyprincess on August 14, 2010, 12:21:05 AM

...Anyways, at this point I've invested more than the price of the laptop into repairs, and it's time for a new laptop.  The hard drive is still in perfect tact, so is there such a thing as buying a computer without a hard drive and just installing mine to save money?
And if so, can it be something besides a Dell? I never want to buy their crap again or have to deal with their nonexistent tech support!...

...Anyone have any opinions on HP vs. Toshiba? And I'm no longer able to afford a $1200 model ...

Hey there,
So i recently purchased a HP DESK JET F2280 ALL-IN-ONE.
Although the user manual guide doesn't give exact specific instructions on how to use install this printer but I put in the CD.
The install screen came on and after going through the instructions I let the program install. at one point during the installation, it asked me to connect the printer via power adapter and the USB cable.
on doing so, a bubble on the bottom right hand corner appeared which said that the COMPUTER detected new hardware and opened up the wizard where the new hardware had to be installed from.
whereas the hp install window continued till about step four and then became still.

While on the wizard, it got directed to installing the software when I clicked on it it SEARCHED for a while and returned with the message that the software cannot be installed and I can go back and point out the location.
on going back and giving the specific location that is of the CD, the wizard still showed an error " the class installer registry entry is unavailable".

on continuing installation the icons and everything installs but when I try to open the HP solution center it doesn't open RENDERING the printer useless.
I have windows XP, service pack 2 and I use Mozilla Firefox
Kindly help on the above issue
I never bother with all that fluff software that comes with printers.  I always get the driver separate from the HP website.  So much easier to manage.

Uninstall all the stuff you installed, use the following link and download the XP driver for your printer.  See if you can get it working on that alone.  If it works, then go ahead and install the other software if you really need it...

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/softwareCategory?os=228&lc=en&cc=us&dlc=en&sw_lang=&product=3390947#N687

Make SURE you get the available patches for the printer, too

I  have two external USB Hard drives with momentry action switches which have to be pressed to turn them on. Is there a WAY to get them to come on automatically when the computer is turned on. I could make a piece of hardware to do it, but if that is the case I would have thought that there was a software option!?

One drive is a Seagate the other a generic caddy with an old drive in it.
O/S Windows XP Home.

Regards BishkaHello and welcome to the forum.   

I find the phrase "momentry action switches" a bit odd.  Are we simply TALKING about an On/Off power switch here? 

One option to accomplish what you want might be to plug both the computer and the USB drives into one surge protector and then use the switch on the surge protector to turn everything on.  You may need to determine whether your computer can be started this way.  If it can not, then this idea won't work.

Is the old drive in the generic caddy a 3.5 inch drive?  If you have a 2.5 inch drive, the size commonly used in laptop computers, you can get external enclosures for them that are powered right off the USB port. So, they would immediately be accessible upon starting your computer without requiring a separate action to  power them on.  If you have no 2.5 inch drive, this is something to keep in mind for any future acquisitions of external storage devices.Hello,
Thanks for such a quick reply. To answer your questions:-

Sorry about the term Momentry Action Switch (an electronics term)  A spring loaded push button switch. That, in the case of my hard drives, needs to be push in and held for a moment or two before the hard drives turn on.

The drive in a caddy is 3.5inch.

There is so many USB peripherals that have this type of switch on them, I just thought that perhaps the USB spec might include some means of turning on equipment from the computer , a means that could be automated so the equipment came on when the computer did....In theory I could make a bit of hardware to do the job, I did not want too, as it would be a bit of a bodge (My experience in electronics is mostly audio and very much as a hobbyist), but it might turn out to be the easiest option.


Regards BishkamomentarySorry, I HAPPEN to be slightly dyslexic, so please excuse the odd (pun intended) spelling mistake.
regards BishkaI suspect the switch in QUESTION is Alternate Action, not momentary.  Momentary would only apply power as long as it's depressed and held in that position.  Alternate Action is press once, it's on, press again, it's off, press again, it's on, etc.Thanks for the reply,

I am sure they must be momentary switches as they performs more than one function. This is quite common. It's cheeper to use one momentary switch with a bit of software that times how long it is pressed for to select a particular function than it does to use two or three diffrent switches.  Nither is there any click sound that you might expect from the latching mechenisum.

Regards BishkaYou should be able to short the switch with a jumper wire; that would get them to come on automatically when the computer is turned on.Thanks for the reply.
Shorting the switch will work for one but not the other because it comes on after the button is released.

I think rather than waste peoples time anymore I will open them up and see what's what. I should be able to make up something to turn them on and off. I hope it will be too difficult, I think it will just need a handfull of components. If I can make everything small enough I should be able to fit them inside the caddy/case.

Thanks to everyone who replied.

regards BishkaYou could always simply buy a different set of USB drives/enclosures. both my my externals use a rocket switch, so if I have them set to on then turning the power bar on will cause them to turn on as well.Thanks for your reply.

I have a third hard drive in a caddy with a rocker switch which I got sometime ago. I had a look on eBay last night and found identical caddies at about £16 each, so, yes, that would be the best option, especially as I could use a couple more hard drives and,  it would save me mucking about with my soldering iron!! Although I don't think the CIRCUIT would be difficult, I recon about ten components, 3  resistors, 3 cap's, 2 diodes, 1 4017B, 1 4001B. All of which I already have.  The only trouble with DIY  electronics is that things never turnout as simple as you expect!!! 

regards Bishka

Last week my Dell 946 (connected through USB) was working fine. After a notification from MicroSoft I had updates installed. This has now rendered my printer USELESS as I receive a message stating that there is a communication error.

I am running XP on a Dell XPS410. I have deleted the printer in control panel, unplugged the printer and placed the Dell driver & UTILITY disc in the drive. I receive a message that it needs files (i.e. dlcicur.dll).



Any thoughts are appreciated.padraig, Is your printer showing up in "control panel printers and faxes" ? Was the update the installation of xp sp 3? When you deleted the printer did you follow precisely the manual of instruction for it's reinstall? This last item is often the cause of a printer installation failure.
  I could not help but notice your "avatar'. If i might offer a suggestion change it to something that does not represent a political statement. No point in aggravating other members that may not agree with you. If you are an American citizen then of course President Obama  IS your President ( i do take it you may not like that but simply put it is a fact). Also he is NOT my President either but that is because i am NOT a U.S. citizen as are undoubtedly countless 100s of other CH members. Hope my suggestions are helpful to you with your TECHNICAL issue and in your continued enjoyment of participation in the CH forums,truenorthTrueNorth,

thank you for the reply on the technical side...the response to my chosen icon is no more offensive than OTHERS that I have seen here. However I do respect your opinion.

prior to deleting the printer from the control panel the printer was present. the Microsoft updates were silversheild or something to that effect. Windows XP recognized the plug-n-play device and my install CD for the Dell printer. now the All in One 946 simply "chirps" without the ability to turn off. connection through USB has been lost.

cheers

i m having a desktop with AMD motherboard, sempron processor,nvidea VGA card,2 gb ddr2 ram and 180 gb hard disk.
the problem i mm having is when i switch on my PC the HDD led glows constant no blinking ,the processor fan keeps on running but there is no display on screen though it is getting POWER and shows in correct condition.  what could be the possible problem ?
plz help me ...plzzz When you first switch the computer on do you get anthying on the screen, or is it blank throughout?no it doesnt display anything
but it shows that pwer is on What about monitor light? Does it switch on to SHOW it is getting a signal from the graphics card?on gettting the power it says no signal  digital  and then becomes black ie no display,but the HDD led remains at it state without blinking Quote from: manish19866 on September 12, 2010, 08:12:50 AM

on gettting the power it says no signal  digital  and then becomes black ie no display,but the HDD led remains at it state without blinking

That WOULD be the BEST approach...any idea how to fix the acer aspire 2920Z laptop sir? Quote

Before it was felt down on the floor but i tried to turn it on and it seems ok

already disassemble the acer aspire 2920Z sir and clean every thing, remove the cmos battery, put a thermal compound in the cpu hit sink but still when i turn it on the cpu fan turn for about 3 to 5 seconds then after that nothing happen.

Have you tried hooking either laptop to an external monitor and then turning them on? Doing this will rule out the possibility that it could be the screens themselves that are bad.

1. Graphics card --> Given it is an on-board GC device on your laptop(or is not? depends on specs), Does this device can contribute to the cause? Yes.

2. What's also in connection with no display? As Mroilfield had just asked you and posted:

Quote

3. RAM modules --> If you have reseatted one or if there are two RAM in your laptop, have you tried isolating either one or just used one RAM on one slot and alternately using either two slots and rebooted? Then what result it gives?

it has only 1 RAM a 512 DDR2. I already tried other RAM from my other working laptop and the same problem i encounter.

Quote

4. Cables --> Have you rechecked all plugs and cables are placed properly and seated and in good form?

yes, i already double check all the connection and i think all was properly inserted and connected.

Quote

5. Motherboard --> If you had a negative result on  #2, then it might be the mobo.

What if the mobo is defected. it their any way to fix it? i heard and read some article in the net that flashing the bios can help. other thing is by cleaning the mobo using water or a paint tinner. and even re heating the mobo. can this solve my problem? or would it give more damage on my laptop? ANYONE of you tried it already? please give me a feedback.

For some reason each time I start my computer I keep getting a message that reads"Disk Boot Failure insert SYSTEM disk and press enter." When I insert the disk and press enter it then boots into windows vista. However, I don't want to have to keep doing this and would appreciate it if someone could suggest a fix? I have windows vista 32bit installed on one drive and windows 7 on another drive in the computer. I don't use the windows 7, and I mainly boot into vista if that helps. Thanks!!Try This...I tried to do the easy bdc, but UNFORTUNATELY it didn't WORK. However, I wasn't able to do the last thing it suggested as it said that my boot folder might me locked and needs deleting. It did say I could delete this boot folder using either the live recovery CONSOLE or another method. Can you please explain how I delete this boot folder and also if I run the risk of not been able to boot into vista if it all goes wrong. Thanks!!No...follow the instructions for repairing it from within Vista...I tried the repair using the windows vista disk and it REPORTS that it couldn't find a fault. I am still getting the same message and still have to use the vista disk to boot into windows.

Hey guys, I have been searching through the net for solutions but I can't find any!

I think this problem is related to a problem several months ago during my finals which lead to my computer to hang, or BSOD before log in, PLAY games or stream things full screen. Some people suggested I test my RAM which I did and it worked. The other suggestion was that I use a selective startup. This solved the problem and allowed me to individually check which programs may have caused the problems. Unfortunately, my flat mate decided to reinstall my OS as a solution than for me to fix it.

Recently a similar problem has returned. However selective startup had until recently prevented the hanging or BSOD before log in, or during using the computer. I tested the RAM again and it was fine, and it is only likely the BSOD will appear (8/10) if I DO NOT disable my GPU on device manager. The drivers are up to date, and prior to disabling the driver, the PC diagnosis indicated the hardware was ok.

However this is my most recent problem report:

Description
A problem with your VIDEO hardware caused Windows to stop working correctly.

Problem signature
Problem Event Name:   LiveKernelEvent
OS Version:   6.0.6000.2.0.0.768.3
Locale ID:   2057

Files that help describe the problem
WD-20100816-2358.dmp
sysdata.xml
Version.txt

View a temporary copy of these files
Warning: If a virus or other security threat caused the problem, opening a copy of the files could harm your computer.

Extra information about the problem
BCCode:   117
BCP1:   861E6868
BCP2:   8B860326
BCP3:   00000000
BCP4:   00000000
OS Version:   6_0_6000
Service Pack:   0_0
Product:   768_1

Any suggestions on what I can do would be appreciated!

PS

my specs are:

OS: Vista Home Premium 32-bit
Manufacturer: Compaq (HP)
Model: SR5139UK
Base processor: Core 2 Duo E6550 (C) DC 2.33 GHz
Motherboard: IPIBL-LA
Video Graphics: GeForce 8400GS
- 256 MB DDR memory
- I/O Ports: HDMI, dual-link DVI , S-video1) Define "reinstall the OS" - does that mean you did a format and new install?

2) If the display driver is the latest release, try rolling  back to the previous version. If it's not the latest release, try downloading and installing that.Hi

1) I just returned the computer to the factory settings, and had all my personal files deleted.

2) the display driver cannot be rolled back. I just recently tried the NEWEST driver from the manufacturer. I can generally log in if there are NO graphics artifacts appear on startup, or the log in screen. It's currently about 50/50

Sometimes I end up on the Windows Startup recovery, it says it can't repair it but after I restart I can log in. So I'm not sure if it is hardware of software based problem.How exactly did you return this machine to "factory default settings " ? ?If you are seeing artifacts and/or other distortions then it is generally a hardware fault, especially if your are getting them during POST and/or in the BIOS. As far as I'm aware GeForce 8400GS is quite a stable GPU, so a hardware fault would seems to be the culprit. Unless there is some sort of power or data connection fault with the motherboard or power supply.

Best test would be to try the offending GPU in another machine and to borrow a different GPU to test your motherboard.

Saying all that, I've miss read 'of' as 'or' ("So I'm not sure if it is hardware of software based problem."). So have you tried the latest or newer drivers?cheers for the reply, my display "died" - dark, volume was still there, then crashed - during a movie I was watching a movie. I tried taking out the GPU and getting rid an dust from the fan.

I put it back in and now the start up is purple and other graphics artifacts. Do you think it's worth while putting it in my old dell 8300? to try?

What replacement can I get to replace the unit?What PC do you have (or specifications if home built)?

All you have to loose by testing the card in another machine is time (or maybe your temper) , so go for it.OS: Vista Home Premium 32-bit
Manufacturer: Compaq (HP)
Model: SR5139UK
Base processor: Core 2 Duo E6550 (C) DC 2.33 GHz
Motherboard: IPIBL-LA
Video Graphics: GeForce 8400GS
- 256 MB DDR memory
- I/O Ports: HDMI, dual-link DVI , S-video

bought it a few years ago.

the one I will have to try it with is a dell that runs on a 3Ghz P4 HT with 512MB of RAM will that work to be compatible?
What are the guidelines to BUYING a GPUs? I'm a bit new with hardware stuff.According to the motherboard and OS you listed any modern graphics card will be compatible. However, watch out for cards that need a 75W 6-pin and/or a 150W 8-pin PCI Express power connector (usually only present on high end GPU's). You will have to check your power supply for the cables. Cheers MAN, I'll look at what the GPU I have now connects to and try and get an idea (I'm sure it has a power cable). I have a 230V power supply, which I guess may limit what I can get.

Voltage is irrelevant. It's the wattage you want to look for (should be printed on your current PSU).

-If you run on a 230V system and had a PSU of 500W you would draw ~2.2 Amps
-If you run on a 110V system and had a 500W PSU then you would draw ~4.5 Amps
[Provided both PSU's are run at full capacity]

Most PSU's will use both 110V & 230V (modern ones switch automatically) DO NOT SWITCH A PSU TO 110v ON A 230V SUPPLY!

Basically what this means is that both electrical systems would run the same amount of components on the same PSU.



P = Power (measured in Watts)       V = Voltage (measured in Volts)      I = Current (measured in Amps)

*PSU = Power Supply Unitlol I may have forgotten all my technological studies from school it seems , cheers I'll have a look at my options thanks

I couldn't get my emachine w3052 with Xp to turn on (had this problem before and a thorough cleaning took care of it) so I cleaned it again. This time I made the mistake of taking the internal battery out (left out over 24 hours) and now when I put everything back together, I get that funny British siren sound so I unplugged it immediately. I tried plugging it in again and nothing, no sound, power, etc. I removed everything except for MONITOR and keyboard and still nothing. Is there any hope or does this mean my motherboard is fried? Thank you for any expert advise and help!!!!.Check your RAM and reseat.  The internal battery is to save your CMOS settings and all you did by removing it is to reset the setting back to factory.  Your computer will START on factory specs.  By "removed everything except for monitor and keyboard" did you mean that you took out the RAM and other internal parts or did you just take off the external stuff, ie the printer, scanner and the like?  If you took out the RAM and plugged it back it you should have gotten a beep code of 3 beeps.  If you didn't get any beep code, then your MB is toast.  If you took off the external stuff, that shouldn't have stopped your computer from starting.Hello,
   I am having the same problem as far as my laptop is not turning back on. Compaq Pressario cq60-206. I was using it and it just shut off. I turned it back on for about 15 sec and it shut off again. Now, it does nothing. One of the lights flickers for a sec and that's it.
   Is it possible that the last time I cleaned it with air I screwed up the fan? I was using considerable pressure and you could hear the fan rev-up fast. The reason I say this is I don't recall hearing the fan since I cleaned it. I didn't really think about it untill this happened. Could my computer have overheated and blew something. I would like to think I could just press a reset button somewhere but I don't see one. I am going to try pulling the RAM out like you said above and listen for the 3 beeps or is that just applicable to Cleegs Emachine?
                                        Thanks much for any replies! Quote from: cleeg on August 17, 2010, 01:57:20 AM

I couldn't get my emachine w3052 with Xp to turn on (had this problem before and a thorough cleaning took care of it) so I cleaned it again. This time I made the mistake of taking the internal battery out (left out over 24 hours) and now when I put everything back together, I get that funny British siren sound so I unplugged it immediately. I tried plugging it in again and nothing, no sound, power, etc. I removed everything except for monitor and keyboard and still nothing. Is there any hope or does this mean my motherboard is fried? Thank you for any expert advise and help!!!!.

Hello,
   I am having the same problem as far as my laptop is not turning back on. Compaq Pressario cq60-206. I was using it and it just shut off. I turned it back on for about 15 sec and it shut off again. Now, it does nothing. One of the lights flickers for a sec and that's it.
   Is it possible that the last time I cleaned it with air I screwed up the fan? I was using considerable pressure and you could hear the fan rev-up fast. The reason I say this is I don't recall hearing the fan since I cleaned it. I didn't really think about it untill this happened. Could my computer have overheated and blew something. I would like to think I could just press a reset button somewhere but I don't see one. I am going to try pulling the RAM out like you said above and listen for the 3 beeps or is that just applicable to Cleegs Emachine?
                                        Thanks much for any replies!

ok the voltages are:

VCORE VOLTAGE 1.74 V KEEPS CHANGING ALSO TO .72
+ 3.3V VOLTAGE 3.32
+5V      VOLTAGE 5.05V
+12      VOLTAGE  11.97 OR 12.03

by the way on the mainboard i have 3 power connnections that are the what 8 by 2 pin the main one then i have one connector that is like the one u hook up to the hdd or dvd which is also plugged in. on the other side of the CPU i have a 4 ppin square which i have connected in the other pc but no this one. So before this i used the PSU from the other computer and tried it on this one still nothingYou have an old carpy PSU and are missing power connections to critical components...no wonder the thing wont stay running.Agreed that PSU is woefully inadequate.no but i did have this running good before plus i used a diff 300 watt PSU with all the connections and i still recieved the errorshould i try again? Sorry I've been a while, I've been racking my brains for anything helpful but all can come up with is to try reseating the CPU. Maybe some dust got into the connections.

Just to get the facts straight:

The PC worked FINE with current stated hardware before you removed & cleaned the CPU, fan & heat sink.

BIOS reset failed to do anything useful.

An appropriate equal or greater wattage power supply returned the same error.


You could try an old approach that I used to take with these sorts of problems. Unplug everything except bare minimum: keyboard, video output (USE on-board if available), 1 stick of RAM, CPU. Turn the PC on, see if you get the error. Then gradually add things and repeat, remember to switch the sticks of RAM if the PC reports the error on bare basics. If that fails then I'm out of ideas.ok will do but one thing just poped into my head, I have 2 graphics cards that are 256 and the fans spin on them but in this computer theres a 64mb but it doesn't spin should i try a card with no fan i have a few around?

ok i have to admit this is wired when i poped in a 64 mb card the computer didn't give me the cpu fan fail it just continued BOOTING and said this
system completed power on seft test computer booting from os

wired huh. Any way if this way the problem I want to THANKS both Accessless and patio and the others for their assistance.

I have a Dell Studio 15 ( Studio 1555) that is just a little over 1 year old. I used it one night everything ran fine, go to turn it on in the MORNING and it won't turn on. I pulled the battery out then put it back in, it turned on for about an hour then shut off. SOMETIMES it'll turn on, sometimes it won't, any ideas on what I should start to trouble shoot first, thank.......Power CABLE might be a good place to start. Do you get a charging or A/C symbol or light whilst the laptop is plugged in? If not then it's probably a charger fault. If the laptop is displaying an A/C connection then try the laptop without the battery. Blue light on the charging adapter will come on, white light on laptop will come on. If the laptop does turn on it'll show that the battery is charging, but loses charge in about one hour. I haven't been able to get the laptop to turn on without the battery in it. If I remove the battery then put it back in sometime the laptop will turn on and runs fine. I'll shut it off when I'm done USING it, go to turn it back on in the morning and nothing happens  What version of Operating System do you have since one year old should be Windows 7. 

Have you checked the configuration for the battery.

Is the system shutting down or going to sleep or hibernate mode to conserve power.  What is the power light on the laptop doing (flash on/off or COMPLETELY off.)

Quote from: Rustys on August 22, 2010, 01:29:26 PM

What version of Operating System do you have since one year old should be Windows 7. 

What possible difference would that make?

Have you checked the configuration for the battery.

WHAT configuration?

Is the system shutting down or going to sleep or hibernate mode to conserve power.  What is the power light on the laptop doing (flash on/off or completely off.)

Did you bother to read his post? Or understand it?

I already fixed this problem but I thought I'd offer it as a "warning" or at least in case anybody else had similar problems. More a story then a request for help.

These are the same specs shown in my profile, with a 9800GT.


I was trying to maximize the speed of the eDuke32 Polymer renderer (it's a beaut') So I checked to see if there were any driver updates.

There were- I was running 197.13, the latest version was 258.96. Seemed like a big jump, so I updated.

I didn't reboot write away (which seems to be my first mistake). It wasn't until this morning that I rebooted, and that was when the problems started.

I first noticed the issue trying to start winamp- it stopped responding almost immediately. But what confused me was that even using End Process refused to kill it, in either task manager or Process Explorer.

I tried a few more times with no success. I suspected malware Because everything was about as slow as it would be on my old 350Mhz K6-2, and considering this is a quad core 2.33Ghz I found that concerning. So I ran Malwarebytes, or more precisely, tried to run malware BYTES, it froze the same way as winamp the moment it started scanning.

Media Player classic: same issue.
Visual Basic 6, Visual Studio 2008 and office started just fine, though. I was rather stumped.

I discovered that I could start winamp in a "safe mode" of SORTS by holding the left and right control keys, this stopped all the general plugins from loading. And, lo and behold, the program started fine.


I wasn't sure what to make of it, but EVENTUALLY I decided to try rolling back the video driver.

Now, everything is back to normal, or so it seems, so FAR it would seem to be a bug in the video driver. That would explain some of the behaviour, one of winamps general plugins was for it's skinning capabilities, and Media Player Classic clearly tries to use various hardware features.

Still somewhat stymied as to why I had no problems with aero glass during this TIME. But Driver problems can always cause the strangest symptoms. So, if anybody else comes to the forum with similar issues with a driver update, it would seem that rolling back isn't a bad idea.

I'm new at this so I hope
I post in the right area,when I try to burn a movie to DVD, after it has been converted. After a while my computer SHUTS down, Ive try ed windows DVD maker,roxio's 2009 movie maker,and Winx DVD author.do you think it could be a fan, or something? I have done this before with no problems so I need to know whats going on so I can fix it! Just checking, you have not enabled some special function like "Shut down after burning" or something similar?

I've seen that in a recent burning software I have used on my computer.


Also, when you say "it could be a fan", did you mean you suspect your computer might be overheating or that your fan may be problematic?well I've done this before without any problems,and now it shuts down,even before completing the burn,I'm just wondering if it would be the fan because you can hear it rev up really high,during the burning process,(this has happened before and I cleaned it, but it wouldn't shut down the computer)the system is about 6yrs.old Does this phenomenon of the "computer shutting down and the fan revving up" ONLY occur when you are burning a dvd? For instance using the same optical DEVICE to "view" a dvd--does it occur then? Are you a game player --does it happen with games(maybe only certain games)? Can you tell which of the fans is revving up? You have at least 2 of them --probably one on the CPU and another on the PSU. When this occurs are you using any other programs simultaneously?Also when the shutdown occurs i presume you turn on (or try to) your computer again. How soon after the shutdown can you turn it on and have it work properly? I guess i need to ask --are you certain it is a fan revving up? As when a burn process actual starts the burner itself does "rev" up from being stationary and could that be what your hearing? truenorth Burning CDs/DVDs uses a lot of CPU power, thus creating a lot of heat.
It may be overheating.

Download, and install SpeedFan: http://www.almico.com/sfdownload.php, keep it open, start burning and see how temperatures are.
Quote from: Broni on August 17, 2010, 10:55:39 PM

Burning CDs/DVDs uses a lot of CPU power, thus creating a lot of heat.
It may be overheating.

Download, and install SpeedFan: http://www.almico.com/sfdownload.php, keep it open, start burning and see how temperatures are.

(As a matter of fact, I wonder why burning a CD uses much CPU anyway. )

....
The actual burning doesn't use the CPU very much at all.

and saw the heat in my comp

There you go...can we see the numbers?


<------feels like a dentist...

P III, 1.13GHz, M/b-815E, 256Mb RAM, W-XP, AVG free is running very slow now a days. EARLIER it used to boot in 20 Sec. Now it takes minutes together. I formated and reinstalled all again. But no use. Plz help.
More RAM.

A quarter of a Gig is very small.

Also, FORMATTING and re-installing ( the hard drive) is a BIT over the top. Do you mean uninstalling and re-installing??Only two RAM chanels. 128X2 available. yes, I have reinstalled all softwares/
Yes dear, Reinstalled W-XP, Office_XP, Firefox etc.
Quote from: irah on August 23, 2010, 05:54:01 AM

P III, 1.13GHz, M/b-815E, 256Mb RAM, W-XP, AVG free, is running very slow now a days. Earlier it used to boot in 20 Sec. Now it takes minutes together. I formated and reinstalled all again. But no use. Plz help.

Only two RAM chanels. 128X2 available. yes, I have reinstalled all softwares/

I had a USB stick and I lpuged it into my USB Port.

Then after copyiung files to it I clicked on Safty Remove Icone.

Then all my USB drives open and I picked K:  because this is my USB Stick drive   K:

And I clicked stop and then I unpluged it.

Now when I plug it bacl in it want open up  and no   K:  drive  shows up in My Computer.?NYMPH you have been here a while you should know to include more detail than that...

Does the drive show in deveice manager?

start -> run -> type in devmgmt.msc

there should be a GENERIC volume for your DEVICE, and also a USB HUB at the bottom of the list should show a plugged in device under properties.

Or does it show in disk management?

start -> run -> diskmgmt.mscthanks for geting back to me I fixed it. Quote from: NYMPH4 on August 22, 2010, 08:50:45 PM

thanks for geting back to me I fixed it.

I was gifted a crappy computer for Christmas and within the past year I've been upgrading it. I'm trying to make it a pretty good gaming computer. I've upgraded my ram and graphics card but I'm going to upgrade my processor now.

Right now I have a *CENSORED* Gateway D102GGC2 Motherboard with a INTEL celeron d processor and I want to get this processor:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103846

Would my motherboard work with it? If you need any more info let me know. Sorry, this is an intel board

an AMD processor would not even fit

FINDING a good processor for that board will be difficult, here is a list of all compatible CPU's

http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/d102ggc2/sb/CS-026580.htmAre any of those good for gaming such as medal of honor ( the new one ) or the new battlefield game? They all seem pretty old..Sorry, unless you are running something like a ATi Radeon 4850 or higher in there, with a 3GHz P4 with hyper-threading, (which would only just scrape you through on LOWEST settings) no where near.

it is true that board is very old, but still has a lot of life left in it for older games and for general use.

Bad Company 2 would ALSO perform very poorly under those conditions, too.

Could you show me a cheap but good motherboard that can work with a processor that can run battlefield/moh well?

Okay, I want to upgrade my laptop enough to play Battlefield: Bad Company 2 on at least the lowest settings.

Currently, I have the game and it runs awfully, averaging from about 5-0.5 fps depending what I'm doing.  I can get about 5-10 fps by staring at the floor.  Especially since this is an online game, I'd need at least 30-40 fps to have a fighting chance!

I'm under the impression it's my processor which is the limiting factor, since processor usage AVERAGES at around 95% when using the game with it spending a lot of time at 100% and increasing PROCESS priority makes it marginally faster.  Also, my processor is pretty crap and doesn't quite meet the same level as the 'Intel Core 2 Duo' in the min' requirements.

As for just general spec's:
* CPU: AMD Turion X2 Dual-Core Mobile RM-70 (x64, 2.0 GHz, 1MB L2 Cache)
* Graphics: ATI Mobility Radeon 3650 (512MB Video Memory)
* Screen: 1366x768x32
* RAM: 4GB DDR2
* HDD: 250GB  (~40GB free)
* OS: Windows 7 Ultimate x64 Edition

The laptop model is an ACER Aspire 6530G in case there is anything I couldn't think of.

I've been looking quite a bit for info on laptop processor upgrades and NONE of it is very informative.  Also, there seem to be some very mixed opinions on them, a lot of people say "too expensive, barely any difference", and a lot of people say "very easy, great boost to performance".  I WOULD have thought they were talking about specific cases but they seem to think that these rules apply to every upgrade so I don't know who to trust.

I'm aware that getting a better processor (if even possible) isn't going to 'dramatically improve performance' on every game, but if it will give me half-decent performance on crappy port games like BFBC2 then I'm in.

Also, if upgrading IS possible, can anyone suggest any recommendations for processors because I wouldn't even begin being able to figure out what ones would work with my laptop.

Thank you for any help you can give.

hi,

I got a new hard disc of 160GB. in which i have 30GM healthy disc in c:. but i am unable to see the rest of the drive SPACE. i went and checked the computer management its not LISTING there. LET me know how to CHECK for the unpartitioned drive.


Regards,
Arun.

i have a dell 62yvh rev a00 motherboard, and i removed it from the case, but it is attached to a metal backing that i can't figure out how to remove so i can place it in my THERMALTAKE case. any ideas on how to do this without RUINING the hardware?Post deleted by Allan
1) NEVER post personal INFORMATION on a PUBLIC FORUM
2) All replies will be posted on the forum. That's how these sites work

Hi : Can someone tell me if i can mix 256mb PC100 LOW density ram with 256mb PC133 high density ram on a OLD Dell Optiplex GX100?The issue is not MIXING the 2 TYPES, but whether the computer is able to recognize the high density properly.  Some machines won't even POST, others will see the 256MB high density as 128MB, and some will see it properly.