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Hello. I have the below components and have, so far as I can see, installed them all correctly. However, my PC displays nothing and shortly after I power it up, it turns itself off. I'd really appreciate any help with this. Thanks.

Motherboard: N15235 Foxconn G31MXP series

CPU: Intel Core2 Quad (on the chip itself it says)

'05 Q6600
SLACR MALAY
2.40GHz/8M/1066/05A
L725B278

Graphics Card: Nvidia GeForce BFG tech GTX 260 Maxcore 55 OC

Ram: CORSAIR DDR2 (CM2X2048-6400C5DHX)

Power Supply: X-Power ATX-600TD

Again, any help with this would be really appreciated. Thanks.I am on the same boat with you. I am certain I installed everything correctly. Do you GET any beeps? I do not and cannot figure out how to hook it up to hear them. The plug is not plugged in on the motherboard above the power and reset switch for a speaker.Welcome to the forums, both of you.
Adanniels, it'd probably be best for you to start a new topic, as your issues may be the same but could be completely different.
Firstly, are all these PARTS new or used?  if used, do you know for sure that they WORK?
Powering down shortly after the system is powered on would indicate possible issues with overheating - check your HEATSINK is seated properly - or power.

The drive will not copy pictures anymore.  I have put disks into E and F, when I go to "My Computer"  it shows that the disk is in the drive.  When I pull up the Wizard to copy pix, it says to insert disk,"no disk in drive"         If I'm in the wrong forum let me knowHave you tried using CD Cleaning Disk in drive? DIRTY drives can act like thisSo as i UNDERSTAND it you have 2 optical drives (both capable of cd burning) correct? The fact that you are having the same problem with both of them makes it highly unlikely that the issue is hardware related. I doubt that cleaning them will change anything.
  The 1st thing i would like you to try is to download the free software CD Burner XP.
http://cdburnerxp.se/
  Then i would like you to try and burn something using that program and report back. If you have access to another computer and can temporarily install the optical drives into that computer to try them (remembering to set the pins to slave). Do them one at a time. It is not necessary to install them into an optical drive bay to do the test. Only do this procedure if the software i have suggested does not work.
  What is the software program you are currently trying to burn with? Anything yellow in "DEVICE manager"? From the point where they stopped working had you changed anything software/hardware in your computer IMMEDIATELY prior? truenorth

Hi, this is my first time posting here and was looking to get some advice on a couple things.

First off, I got a new computer in May..it's a gaming computer and has a TF8200 A2+ BIOSTAR motherboard, 4 gig ram, a geforce 9800 gtx+ video card. Now my computer was running great, unitl, one day I came home and nothing was showing on my moniter, yet my computer was on. All the cords were plugged in so I decided a simple restart would be suffice. I was wrong, because when I started it again I heard the computer turn on...the fans would spin, and then it would sound like one fan would slow down spinning, then speed up, then slow down, then speed up. So, UPON further inspection, I realized the fan was the one inside my video card. I decided to take my video card and put it into a different computer, and it worked. I then took that computer's video card and put it in mine, and it did the same thing my video card was doing. All other fans spin, I cant see anything on the screen its just black.

Now, I have a Biostar TF8200 A2+ motherboard and I want to KNOW what motherboards out there have the same exact specs in which I could replace it (If its the problem) And what CPU's are compatible. I have no idea where to start looking for things like this and really need help on this.
Thank you for your time.If by new "in May" you mean purchase new as opposed to new to you then i suggest that you NOT try to fool around in it (technical term for try to repair yourself) and either return it to point of purchase under WARRANTY or minimally contact tech support at the manufacturer. If you do CERTAIN things which become obvious then you may well invalidate your warranty. truenorthLike Truenorth said, if it is brand new, try to get someone else to repair it under warranty. If not, then these links to some very similar mobos may help:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813153125
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131292

MAKE SURE your cpu and other main components will work with one of these mobos if you do decide to go through with this...
Ram is up to 8 gigs of DDR2, 1066 ram
CPU is type AM2/AM2+
HDD is SATA II
so on and so forth

i want to play all the NEWER games at a moderate to high RESOLUTION and frame rate, what is the best hardware out that i should be looking for in a pre made LAPTOP WITHOUT putting out too MUCH?  how much should i expect to pay for a decent set up?You need to look at the recommended hardware requirements for the games you want to play, then calculate your budget and go from there..ok thanks

EMachine T6212  512 MB RAM  Win XP

Friend was going to sell her computer. I took it and ran DBAN and re-installed Win XP - system ran fine. Took it back, hooked it up and system booted to DESKTOP. Had a Windows notice that it found new HARDWARE and was installing drivers. I thought that was odd because all the computer had plugged in was a PS2 mouse, PS2 keyboard and monitor. The only things "different" were the keyboard and mouse - I had used USB devices.

Anyway, the system was locked (mouse would not move) so I let it sit there for about 5 min and shut it down via the power button and powered it back on. "On" light came on, HDD indicator lit up for 10 sec, or so, and the fans spin but no screen output and no POST.

Tried so far: different power supply, added video card (computer uses onboard video), re-seated RAM, pulled RAM and tried to boot, pulled CMOS battery for 15 min and replaced it with a new one - nothing happens: no beeps, no video, just fans and "on" light.

All thoughts are welcomed... Quote from: quidnunc on August 30, 2010, 03:11:43 PM

...
1.  I thought that was odd because all the computer had plugged in was a PS2 mouse, PS2 keyboard and monitor. The only things "different" were the keyboard and mouse - I had used USB devices.
2.  Anyway, the system was locked (mouse would not move) so I let it sit there for about 5 min and shut it down via the power button and powered it back on. "On" light came on, HDD indicator lit up for 10 sec, or so, and the fans spin but no screen output and no POST.....

Computer has only monitor connected and won't POST - what, exactly, are you suggesting?

Where is her eMachines Driver CD ? ?
Those will need to be re-installed...
MBoard chipset drivers go 1st...

Won't POST without a keyboard connected.

I have a six year old PC with a six month old graphics cards that I added in. I've had triple monitor set up including a TV. I've now removed the second monitor and just have one plus the TV. I usually turn off the "extend my desktop" option in the displays, but it seems that the display configuration reverts when I turn the PC on.

What I know is:
I turn on my computer and the monitor doesn't communicate.
The monitor has power and display.
The graphics card works.
I haven't ever replaced the battery on my MOTHERBOARD, but the time stays correct.
Nothing is yellow on device manager. All drivers were updated about six months ago.
Previously, months ago, my monitor stopped being able to be brought out of SLEEP mode and I had to turn that feature off (that was on the onboard video port).

To get it to work again, I go through dusting the computer, making sure everything is tightly installed, unplugging the power to the computer, moving the cords to different ports, removing the memory and putting it back. I don't know exactly what's working. I think it MIGHT be unplugging the PC and removing the cord from the graphics card port and then plugging it back in and replacing the cord in the port.

 

Any suggestions?If you can get a visual... Do you have any system restore point before any of the issues? If so try that out.

do you have any other CRT laying AROUND and/or Was there any sort of thunder storm in the past few days/weeks that could of surged you?First of all, system restore will not help you. Second, your post is very confusing. Does the display work at boot or not? Does it work within Windows or not? EXACTLY what is happening.

Hi everyone I have another problem

A couple of months back I bought a External IDE hard drive caddy which is called Hi Point smart mobile STORAGE. This AFTERNOON it started giving me a problem, I went to switch it on and the computer would not recognize it but it will find it and display the hard drive as unallocated when I know the hard drive is in perfect condition and I have a lot of songs on it. But about 4-6 hours later I tried again and then it says it cannot load the driver software. IF this is any HELP as well there is a blue and red light on the caddy blue for power and red for hard disk activity the red light is always on it will not go off. I have tried lots of hard drives seagate, Maxtor, western digital and it still does the same. Please can you help. I hope it is not a hard drive problem.

Also my punctuation is not very GOOD I am sorry about that.

David.I'd say, you need a new enclosure.
Similar thing happened to me and it was just dead/malfunctioning enclosure.OK thanks I am glad it is not a hard drive problemYou're welcome   no problem I have ordered a better quality ONE than this

After reformatting my computer, I installed the ChipSet for my motherboard (Asus), but then i found out that i was lacking sound, Sound Properties, the BOX was grayed out with a No Audio Device message on top, i tried all the tips on other forums but couldn't get it to work.

Please help me out!
I have an Asus m2n68 am se2 MotherBoard.

Here is a Belarc Advisor Report.

Operating System         System Model
Windows XP Home Edition Service Pack 2 (build 2600)
Install Language: English (United States)
System Locale: English (United States)         No details available
Processor a         Main Circuit Board b
2.20 gigahertz AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual Core
256 kilobyte primary memory cache
1024 kilobyte secondary memory cache
64-bit ready
Multi-core (2 total)
Not hyper-threaded         Board: ASUSTeK Computer INC. M2N68-AM SE2 Rev X.0x
Serial Number: MT7097K15100520
Bus Clock: 200 megahertz
BIOS: American Megatrends Inc. 0706 06/29/2009
Drives         Memory Modules c,d
200.04 Gigabytes Usable Hard Drive Capacity
118.76 Gigabytes Hard Drive Free Space

TSSTcorp CD/DVDW TS-H652L [CD-ROM drive]

Generic USB CF Reader USB Device [Hard drive] -- drive 2
Generic USB MS Reader USB Device [Hard drive] -- drive 4
Generic USB SD Reader USB Device [Hard drive] -- drive 1
Generic USB SM Reader USB Device [Hard drive] -- drive 3
WDC WD20 00JS-60NCB1 SCSI Disk Device (200.05 GB) -- drive 0, SMART Status: Healthy         2048 Megabytes Usable Installed Memory

Slot 'DIMM0' has 1024 MB
Slot 'DIMM1' has 1024 MB
     Local Drive Volumes
     
      
c: (NTFS on drive 0)    200.04 GB    118.76 GB free
     Network Drives
     None detected
Users (mouse over user NAME for details)         Printers
local user accounts   last logon
 Kacper    8/29/2010 12:59:26 AM    (admin)
local system accounts
 Administrator    never    (admin)
 Guest    never    
 HelpAssistant    never    
 SUPPORT_388945a0    never    

DISABLED Marks a disabled account;   LOCKED OUT Marks a locked account
        None detected
Controllers         Display
NVIDIA nForce Serial ATA Controller
Primary IDE Channel [Controller]
Secondary IDE Channel [Controller]
Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller         NVIDIA GeForce 9400 GT [Display adapter]
HP 2009 [Monitor] (19.9"vis, s/n 3CQ9490TVC, December 2009)
Bus Adapters         Multimedia
Standard Enhanced PCI to USB Host Controller
Standard OpenHCD USB Host Controller         None detected
Virus Protection [Back to Top]         new Group Policies
No details available         None discovered
Communications         Other Devices
PCI Soft Data Fax Modem with SmartCP

      
NVIDIA nForce 10/100 Mbps Ethernet
 primary     Auto IP Address:    ------------- / --
   Gateway:    --------------
   Dhcp Server:    --------------
   Physical Address:    ----------------
 
Networking Dns Server:    ---------------
        HID-compliant consumer control device
HID-compliant device
USB Human Interface Device (3x)
Standard 101/102-Key or Microsoft Natural PS/2 Keyboard
HID-compliant mouse (2x)
NVIDIA Network Bus Enumerator
USB Composite Device (2x)
USB Mass Storage Device
USB Printing Support
USB Root Hub (2x)
 
See your entire network map...
click for Belarc's System Management products
 
new Network Map (mouse over IP address for physical address) [Back to Top]
IP    Device Type    Device Details    Device Roles
-------------     Router    Dslrouter,
dslrouter.westell.com    DHCP Server, Gateway, Domain Name Server, Web Server
-------------     System    Ipod-touch,
ipod-touch.westell.com, Apple    
---------------     Windows XP Workstation    --------168f003c (in MSHOME),
------168f003c.westell.com, Asustek    Web Server
 
Find your security vulnerabilities...
click for Belarc's System Management products
 
Missing Microsoft Security Hotfixes [Back to Top]
                    These required security hotfixes (using the 08/10/2010 Microsoft Security Bulletin Summary) were not found installed. Note: CIS benchmarks require that Critical and Important severity security hotfixes must be installed.    
Q873339   - Important     (details...)
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Q2229593   - Critical     (details...) Flash update your bios with the latest, then install the additional drivers. Normally you can get the latest online from your motherboard providers offical website. Your'll then should have a larger range of support for newer memory, hard drives, sound cards, etc, which might not be working at first on a clean install. Default Window Drivers just don't cut it for newer hardware. Quote from: Azzaboi on August 29, 2010, 03:00:09 AM

Flash update your bios with the latest, then install the additional drivers. Normally you can get the latest online from your motherboard providers offical website. Your'll then should have a larger range of support for newer memory, hard drives, sound cards, etc, which might not be working at first on a clean install. Default Window Drivers just don't cut it for newer hardware.

Whenever I try to install the Sound Driver  I get Device Could Not Start [code 10] message

hello

I have a desktop, and my computer screen doesn't want to display anything.  I just installed a new PC game (starcraft 2), which required an internet connection for obtaining patches.  I just moved into my new apartment, and hadn't had the time to GET my own secured internet connection, so i connected to the NEIGHBOUR's wireless internet.   after the game was installed everything was fine. I played with my new game, then i eventually closed my computer.

after that I tried to turn it back on after a few hours..my computer is open...but nothing is displayed on the screen.  i checked to make sure it was at on, and all of the cables too: everything was fine.  the power remains at on, but it switches to power save mode, and the screen remains black.

what can i do to fix it?  is it RELATED to what i just did to my computer?  please help me.

Thank you for your time.this sounds like your pc is booting properly. is the sound turned on? you will be able to hear the windows sound when it boots up if the pc is working properly.
besides the obvious of checking your monitor cable for looseness and bent PINS have you tried to make sure that all of your CARDS are seated properly? during a move sometimes things unexpected happen.

im trying to upgrade my processor for the gateway ms2252 model laptop.
motherboard according to cpu-z is gateway IMV.
its running an intel core 2 duo P8400 2.26 Ghz
i want to EITHER overclock it or or install a 2.6 Ghz processor minimum for running a NEW game i want (FF XIV)
i believe that the socket pin is 478.
if i am forced to purchase another processor how do i tell if the processor is compatable to my motherboard and bios? Quote from: devildog429 on September 06, 2010, 11:08:05 AM

im trying to upgrade my processor for the gateway ms2252 model laptop...

SPLASH--the sound of me bailing out,truenorthhahaha im confused on that im new hear? lol means u have no IDEA?  like i said ive done everything and i really dont wanna format, i have alot of programs on here altho they seem to slowing not work cuz registry files corrupt and what not but i just want  a SOLUTION or ultimatum
AND registry files corrupt................


Back-up and re-format. Quote from: deargodpleasehelp on September 05, 2010, 12:22:47 PM

Have you made sure the card/onboard switch/whatnot is properlyy connected??

my spell check wont tell me how to spell sauder lol that metal that melts easy and is used for circuitry

I had recently purchased a new system since my old one died. I had to get it in a rush (and there were some other extenuating circumstances), so I purchased a pre-built system (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003KN2YA8/ref=oss_product). It arrived and everything worked just as expected, but it had a cheap little LiteOn power supply which was only 300W, and a cheap little budget graphics card. So, I figured I may as well put in my old 8800GT graphics card and 500W (I think it was?) Antec power supply.

Now, at first I was a bit reluctant to do this, but the power supply was the first thing I had tested on my old defunct computer, and I had also tried a different video card (actually, I replaced the motherboard and tried using its on-board integrated graphics—and to no avail), so I felt pretty confident they were fine. So, I went ahead, put them in, and it worked without a hitch. For a while.

This morning, when I tried to take my system out of sleep mode, the monitor would not get a signal. I tried rebooting a few times but still nothing. So I swapped my graphics card out with the little budget graphics it came with and suddenly I had gotten a signal on the monitor—however, it wouldn't get PAST the BIOS. So I tried putting a different hard drive with a Windows XP installation on there to see if it'd get to Windows, and it sort of did; it acted like it was CORRUPTED, though. I figured I'd try connecting the Windows 7 hard drive the new computer came with again, and suddenly it said Windows failed to start up properly and ASKED if I wanted to boot Windows in safe mode. (I think it may have asked me this when I tried using the XP drive, too; I should have paid closer attention, but I was frantically trying to get my new system to work.) Suddenly everything boots up fine. Then I tried shutting down and putting the 8800GT back in again.

And now here I am, everything ostensibly just fine. Maybe the CMOS configuration reset during all this? Maybe it was a problem caused by conflicting graphics drivers—but then again, it should have still had display in the BIOS long before it hits the OS on the hard drive—I really don't know. I probably should have checked to see if the peripherals (keyboard, mouse) lit up when it first powered on, but, again, I wasn't thinking. It's working now, but I'm afraid to put it in sleep mode or shut down after what happened this morning since it may not boot up again. Is it possibly my PSU is a ticking time bomb? Antec supplies tend to be good products, I'm pretty sure, but it's not unthinkable. Maybe there was just some loose connection which was resolved when I tinkered around?

Either way, I don't want to wait until I can't boot up my PC again. Anyone have any ideas? Are these telltale symptoms of any problem you guys are aware of?



Edit: Oh, sorry, I should try and list any specs I can (but most of them should be laid out on the page I linked).

OS: Windows 7 64-bit (preinstalled with this Acer system)
CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 820 (at stock ~2.8GHz clock frequency)
6GB DDR3 (I'm not sure what speed or brand, but it looks like generic stuff without heat spreaders in there)
GPU: GeForce 8800GT 512MB (I think, anyway; DXDiag is reading 3,299MB video memory, but I read that's a common software bug), I also don't remember which OEM but it's a factory overclocked model, if I recall correctly
Motherboard: I'm really not sure… I'll have to look it up and edit this later.
640GB hard drive (also not sure which make)
Power supply: 500W Antec Earthwatts (came with my Antec Sonata III case I bought for my old system on Newegg, but using the Acer case this computer came with) Quote from: Hearts on Fire on August 31, 2010, 03:48:32 PM

...
1.  So I tried putting a different hard drive with a Windows XP installation on there to see if it'd get to Windows, and it sort of did; it acted like it was corrupted, though.
2.  Maybe the CMOS configuration reset during all this? Maybe it was a problem caused by conflicting graphics drivers—but then again, it should have still had display in the BIOS long before it hits the OS on the hard drive—I really don't know. I probably should have checked to see if the peripherals (keyboard, mouse) lit up when it first powered on, but, again, I wasn't thinking.
3.  It's working now, but I'm afraid to put it in sleep mode or shut down after what happened this morning since it may not boot up again...

1.  Windows does not allow the transfer of a hard drive from one computer to a different computer, without a reinstallation or repair (if you are lucky) of Windows.

2.  Some computers require several cold boots for the CMOS to reset itself.
3.  Some computers don't function properly coming out of Sleep Mode.

...If it was simply a bad configuration with the CMOS, then it could make sense that multiple boot attempts simply reset it. I tried maybe three times to boot my system up cold, then tried swapping hardware. It still wouldn't explain why I couldn't even see the BIOS screen until I swapped my graphics card out (monitor wouldn't get signal), and after I did that it just wouldn't get into Windows—just got the BIOS screen and then it was like black when it was supposed to hit the Windows boot-up screen...

Hope this is in the RIGHT place. Anyway, I have a Samsung Syncmaster 933 that hardly has any sound even with it turned all the way up. Have Windows 7 and ran the troubleshooter, says both the speakers and audio driver are fine. So the problem must lie with the monitor. I cannot mouse over and get it to do anything. I can push the side buttons and change the brightness, the resolution, and the type of screen I want, but cannot do anything with the sound. It says that it's "auto locked", maybe that's why. Cannot figure out how to get it unlocked either. Would love to have some sound. Any help appreciated. Just checking - Do you have an audio cable running from the monitor to the PC and have you checked that this is fully connected.  Failing that you can pick up a pair of pc speakers for a FAIRLY low price depending on which ones you want.  If you get a decent set you will probably get BETTER quality that the monitor's built in ones too.Yeah, it has an audio cable and everything is connected as it should be. That's not the problem, nor the speakers, it's the monitor. The speakers are old, but worked excellent with my LAST computer for many years, right up to their last DAY with that. I want to continue using them as they are Polk Audio's. I currently can only hear a very minimal sound even with the sound turned all the way up after adjusting from the control panel. I wanted to know how to unlock the monitor's secrets to adjusting it. Why can I do a few things while not others?

So I recently got back from a tour OVERSEAS and pulled my desktop out of storage. I installed a new hard DRIVE and OS. OS is windows 7. All ran just fine until I attempted to install a wireless PCI adapter card. It is a Netgear RangeMaz WN311B. The card would not install and this was the only THING I had tried right after the OS was done. So I uninstalled the card and now the computer starts but nothing comes on screen and the USB ports don't even work. I am completely at a loss as to the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Any other info you need just ask. Thanks.Maybe during the process of adding and removing the PCI card, you bumped your graphics card.How do you mean the USB ports don't work? Do you mean your peripherals (keyboard, mouse) aren't lighting up when you boot the system? Because if you aren't getting a display on your monitor I'm not SURE how you'd notice. Try reseating the graphics card in the slot and make sure the extra 6-pin PCI-E power connector is properly attached.

That's all I can think of off the top of my head, hopefully someone more knowledgeable comes in.USB not working I mean that anything I plug in get no power at all. I will try resetting everything in the morning and hopefully that will work. Thanks.

Have just installed office jet 4500 all in one..fax, printer, scan and copy.
adsl service says to PLUG DIRECTLY into phone line...where do I plug in the phone line
from printer/fax?
is there a re-route...modem to fax/printer and then to phone line?
appeciate your helpI hope i am understanding your QUESTION correctly. I believe that you are using a DSL service for your ISP. Is that correct? Yes there should be a phone line input/output on the "all in one"That will be required to send/receive fax messages by the fax component of the all in one. So a phone connection is needed. If your DSL modem has a phone line connection (in addition to the one from the ISP) you can use that for the phone line. However most dsl modems that i know of don't have that connection. Therefore you need to plug the other end into a phone jack.Now while i am not absolutely certain as it is necessary to have "filters" on all other than the DSL/computer connection line it is probably also advisable (maybe even required) that that connection also be on a filtered line. While you don't mention the brand of your all in one here is a link to the HP site with their guidance for doing what you seek to do. It should be helpful. http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=bpu60006&lc=en&dlc=&cc=us&lang=&product=59830
truenorth Quote from: islander on September 05, 2010, 12:23:35 PM

Have just installed office jet 4500 all in one..fax, printer, scan and copy.
adsl service says to plug directly into phone line...where do I plug in the phone line
from printer/fax?
is there a re-route...modem to fax/printer and then to phone line?
appeciate your help

I tripped over my wires and my laptop brutally fell to the floor.
My hdd started making weird sounds after that (for a short few seconds after the crash, some LIGHT.. SCRATCHY, repeated sounds, don't know how to describe it).

Yes my first obvious idea is to immediately backup everything I have.
Should I be very worried for my disk now? I downloaded S.M.A.R.T. TOOLS from SourceForge.net and
they aren't giving me much info after running some of the commands on my disk.
I' m worried if my hdd might be dying or if it is going to suddenly show some headcrash/click. I can't predict it.
I would like to know a way to predict it. I want to know the state, health of my hdd and if there are sector problems.

Thanks for letting me know.

Edit: I'm running CrystalDiskInfo at the moment and the hdd status says: "Good".
I'll post more detailed info in a few.

Here's my disk report.
Hard-drives like any other electro/mechanical device can fail catastrophically at any time without warning, such failure cannot be predicted although you might get some recognizable symptoms.  You should always have backup for your critical files.

If you suspect your hdd might be damaged in any way replace it!! Quote from: Big on September 03, 2010, 01:42:21 PM

I tripped over my wires and my laptop brutally fell to the floor.

I thought you were supposed to be a genius?

Hey everyone, I posted here before - about a month ago - about not knowing if I had a temperature issue or a graphics card issue because I was having "jumpy" or flickering graphics while playing a graphic-heavy game and some temperatures inside my computer were unusually high.

Turned out someone noticed that there were burst capacitors on my mobo and was almost certain that that was the root of my problems. So I replaced the motherboard. Someone also suggested that my liquid cooling system may be failing - so I replaced that with a regular heatsink/fan. Things seemed to have been running fine for a few weeks until now - I'm having these flickering graphics and strange, high temps again.

I can't explain the jumpiness/flickering anymore than that. I'll be playing a game and the graphics will just shake/flicker. No artifacting, just flickering. Yesterday, I let the flickering go on to see what would happen, and my computer shut itself off. No warning or blue screen, it just powered off. It's only while playing a game, never happens while just surfing the net or doing anything else on the computer - not even while WATCHING videos.

Now I'm just stumped as to what could be causing this. I may replace my graphics card, but I keep thinking that if it was the graphics card, I would be having graphic issues all around - not just while playing a game. Anyone ever experience this or deal with this sort of thing before and have any other suggestions for me? Thanks in advance!

Oh, and I do clean the dust out of the fans and such regularly. Also, reseat the graphics card, etc. Fresh thermal paste was just reapplied a few weeks ago onto the CPU when I PUT the new CPU fan in (yes, I cleaned the old thermal paste off first lol) I even kept the side of my case off this past month to see if it helped with air flow. I also installed an extra case fan.

Attaching a SCREENSHOT of my temps - the processor temps are high again - this screenshot was taken about 20 minutes after playing a game and experiencing the flickering.



SPECS:
OS: Windows XP SP 3
RAM: 3328 MB
CPU: AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual Core Processor 6000+
CPU Speed: 3007.7 MHz
SC: Realtek HD Audio output
VC: NVIDIA GeForce 9500 GT
Res: 1440 X 900 - 32 bit
HD: 300GB x 2
MB: Gigabyte M57SLI-S4
PSU: 750W
CPU Fan: Scythe Katana III
Temps look normal.  I'm thinking RAM, motherboard and/or GPU.Well, I hope it's not the motherboard since it's a new one, lol

I forgot to mention that the flickering can happen within 20min or after a couple hours of running a graphic-heavy program - and sometimes not at all during those couple hours. It just does it at random times. I don't know if that's useful information.

The RAM seems to be working OK - but is there any way to check it or any other signs I can look for that can help me determine whether one is failing or not?

For system RAM:  http://www.memtest.org/
For GPU RAM, I don't knowI ran Memtest and got a message saying it passed with no errors. So I'm guessing my next step is to try a new video card? 

What are the chances it's a faulty CPU?The chances of a faulty CPU is slim. Have you tried the most basic thing of checking your cable connections? Also if you have access to another monitor try attaching that and playing the game and post back with the results from that. Yep, I'm always checking the cables and reseating the card - and checking for dust. Just the flickering happens so randomly that I just can't figure out why or where the problem lies. Like I SAID, there are times when I play a game for an hour or TWO with no problems. Other times, the flickering starts within 20 minutes or so. Usually, I panic and close the game when I see the flickering starting - otherwise, my computer shuts itself off.

I unfortunately don't have a second monitor to test on, so I'm just gonna try a new video card and see what happens. Is it possible that a video card can be incompatible with a motherboard? This will be the second time I'm replacing the card within a two year period - and I'm not even a hardcore gamer, I'll play a game maybe once every couple days and for not very long. Or I'll run a program like Second Life, where it's not extreme at all and experience the same flickering problem. But if I'm watching movies, I never have any issues.

So, both video cards were Nvidia Geforce from EVGA. Should I try ATI or something? Or is it normal for a video card to conk out within a year or so?

Thanks so much for the responses - and for putting up with my questions lolThis could also be an intermittent power issue... Quote

Or is it normal for a video card to conk out within a year or so?

This could also be an intermittent power issue...

A power issue as in my power supply may be failing? Or I don't have enough power to run the graphics card? Or the video card's power? Help. lol

so I'm just gonna try a new video card and see what happens.

Did you try it yet? If it still flickers, then it's your PSU or motherboard.

Hi there.  I hope this is the correct place to post this QUESTION.  I have an HP Pavilion dv7-1267cl laptop with 4 USB ports, one that is ESATA capable.  Awhile back, all my USB ports just stopped working.  Had little yellow question or exclamation marks (can't remember which) next to the list of USB devices or ports (I do NOT really know computers to give proper terminology) in device manager.  After doing some research in other areas, I was under the impression I may need a new motherboard, which would cost hundreds of dollars, even on Ebay, plus paying someone to install it.  Fortunately a friend has a computer shop owner he recommended that has a good memory and remembered something about an issue with HP Laptops and some "filter" (I think that's what he called it).  Well, only $45 later, and him running some software he had, my laptop USB ports are now working for the most part.

I said "for the most part" because I have some weird things happening.  Currently, I have a 1.5tb hard drive in a NexStar3 enclosure plugged into the ESATA port, that I only power on when I need to use it because it gets hot and because, if I have powered off my laptop and leave that external drive powered "on", when I power on my laptop; it apparently wants to boot from that drive for some reason.  Would love to know how to prevent that, but that's for another day.  I have a wireless RECEIVER for my mouse and keyboard in another port, and a Rosewill Powered USB Hub with 7 ports is plugged into another.

Now, for the "weird".  Since this "fix", if I put my laptop in "sleep" mode, when I wake it up, all the things plugged into the powered hub will not function, including my scanner, laser printer, label printer, external dvd player/BURNER, or Bose Companion 5 speaker system.  I have to pull out the plug from the usb port, sit for 5 to 10 seconds and then plug it back in, and it all works fine.  It's annoying as heck to have to do that every time, but at least it all works.

The really strange thing is in regards to the Bose speaker system.  When I first plugged it into one of the onboard USB ports, the sound was HORRIBLE.  Sounded like the volume was turned up way too high, (though it wasn't) and was very distorted.  Tried all the other ports, same thing.  Called Bose, explained my problem, tried to troubleshoot by trying the other "onboard" ports, etc and had the same problem.  I told him I had the 7 port hub as well, and that seemed to be a big no-no for some reason.  Said not to even try that.  The next suggestion was to plug the speaker system into my old PC that my laptop replaced.  That worked, the sound from these speakers are amazing.  At that point, he said there is something wrong with my laptop usb ports and I needed to get that fixed.  Well, I shut it down and restarted it, tried a couple of the ports again, and same distorted sound coming out.  I thought, what the heck, I'll try it in the USB hub.  Works like a champ.  Even Pandora sounds wonderful. 

Now the only issue is "why" is the sound distorted when plugged into an onboard USB port and sounds great in the hub I was told not to even try?  And why do I have to unplug the Hub after I "wake up" my machine to get the USB devices to function?

I'm sorry this is so long, but the rules said to be thorough.  And in that light, I am running Windows VISTA 64bit and my virus protection, etc is Bit Defender Total Security 2010.  Thank you, anyone that knows these darn machines, that can provide simple, easy to understand and follow help, in advance.  Have a great weekend.All the shop did was download and reinstall the USB drivers for your HP Pavilion dv7-1267cl laptop, from www.support.hp.com

Sleep Mode turns off USB & all other ports to SAVE power.  You can selectively keep one or more of them on during sleep:  http://support.microsoft.com/kb/930312

By my count, you have 8 devices on the USB bus:  Rosewill hub, keyboard, mouse, scanner, laser printer, label printer, external dvd player/burner, or Bose Companion 5 speaker system.  Too many to be used simultaneously.

Why not plug the speakers into the laptop speaker jack?

Sleep Mode is intended to save laptop main battery power when no AC adapter is present.  Don't use sleep mode & you won't have any problems. Quote from: Computer_Commando on September 03, 2010, 12:06:12 PM

All the shop did was download and reinstall the USB drivers for your HP Pavilion dv7-1267cl laptop, from www.support.hp.com

Sleep Mode turns off USB & all other ports to save power.  You can selectively keep one or more of them on during sleep:  http://support.microsoft.com/kb/930312

By my count, you have 8 devices on the USB bus:  Rosewill hub, keyboard, mouse, scanner, laser printer, label printer, external dvd player/burner, or Bose Companion 5 speaker system.  Too many to be used simultaneously.

Why not plug the speakers into the laptop speaker jack?

Sleep Mode is intended to save laptop main battery power when no AC adapter is present.  Don't use sleep mode & you won't have any problems.

what is exactly is needed to connect,how do you configure the connection and how do i obtain the wi-fi networks to share fromFirst, you need to install wireless drivers.

If you have already, you should be ABLE to double click the NETWORK icon on your system TRAY to see the wireless networks to connect to. To configure the connection you need to go to control PANEL network CONNECTIONS and then right click on the wireless connection and select properties.

Okay i NEED help, as this one has got me really STUMPED 
ive been helping a freind out working on his computer and he just called
and told me that he is not getting any display on the monitor and not audio from
the speakers,
i suggested to him to try all diffrent avalible slots (vga, DVI, S-Video)
he tried all three and still had the same problem, i am waiting for another call from him
as i suggested to him to take out the G/C and / or try a diffrent moniter
if anyone has any advise it wld be highly APPRECIATED =)What is new or different since the last time EVERYTHING worked properly (ie, new HW, new sw, virus, error, etc)?

I have several DELL desktop COMPUTERS one being DIMENSION 2400,
why when taking a speaker and connecting two wires to a jack on
the speaker out of the computer do they not have much volume?
I have the volume set way up. I have never had or USED computer
speakers so I do not know if they have a amplifier built in.

JohnAll speakers designed for a computer have built in amplifiers.  Audio outputs on a computer are not powerful enough to power normal speakers WITHOUT some kind of amplification.

As an alternative, You can run an audio output from a computer into a stereo and then into regular speakers.

Does anybody have any good advice on where to get good information on laptops (ratings, pricing, etc.,)

I'm trying to decide if I can go with an ipad vs a laptop and if I do go with a laptop which one is the best bang for the $$?

I'm not a gamer, I like to surf the web, create folders to save stuff I've found on the web and have the ability to email and download the occasional pdf, etc., file sent to me or sent by me...

Any suggestions?

Thanks.The best way to start asking for recommendations is with a budget...Okay-$500 to $600
Thanks.If I may OFFER a quick suggestion; unless you have a COMPUTER (either desktop or laptop), don't get an iPad for your daily dose of the web.

The iPad, like the iPod Touch, requires another machine to work properly.
For example without a computer, you won't be able to add music, videos, or other content to your device.

If you DO HAVE another computer, don't get the iPad if you plan to perform mass note-taking. If you do, consider buying a keyboard dock or an Apple Bluetooth Wireless Keyboard. The iPad's onscreen keyboard is good for quick note-taking, not for extensive writing (such as this forum post).

Contrary to popular belief, the iPad is not a computer or netbook replacement. It is merely a tool.


Don't get me wrong though, I love my iPad. If all you need is a device to surf the internet, take quick notes, watch online videos, etc - you may love it too.

It's all about what you're ultimately going to do with the machine.Yeah, I have a desktop-old one, that's why I'm considering a new drug. The bluetooth wireless keypad might just be the the decision maker...

Thanks Dude! (oxide)Might want to wait for the next iPad (rumored to have a HD display, rear and front camrea and longer battery life)

The next refresh cycle might be either Janruary or July so up to you


Oh, and just to follow up with what I said, the ipad wont be a big net book competitor until iOS 4 with multitasking is available; which is rumored  to be some time this September. Good stuff-thanks again dude(oxide)!Just to follow up what I said again - the iPod Touch just got a refresh. New HD Camera and HD display.

Watch out!  Ha! Yeah saw that last night. Thanks again Dude! (Oxide)What do you think pricing will be or do you know?  For the next iPad?

Most likely the same (or similar) as it is now.


Last year, the 64GB iPod Touch was $399 USD. Now, the new 64GB is again $399.

Apple's iPod pricing rarely change.With the refresh- New HD Camera and HD display? Really? Wow! Don't know much about Apple.
Question: If I am not with Sprint? or AT&T (whoever the Apple consumers have for the iphones will I still be able to take advantage of wi fi hot spots with my Ipad?

If you choose to get a 3G iPad, you choose when to active the service. You can either activate the 3G service at the store, or at home.
If you do not activate 3G on your iPad, wifi capability will not be impaired. The iPad will function just as a NORMAL Wifi-only iPad.Cool. Thanks again Dude! (Oxide)

Windows XP Home SP3
I have a 30gb internal IDE now with 10gb remaining, but possibly on it's last legs so have made a backup just in case.
I also have a 300gb usb connected external drive and that also has only 10gb remaining, so more overall storage is needed asap.
*censored*, more money to fork out!
I've decided to go for an 80gb IDE to replace my C drive, (keeping it small to save time on backups, checking etc., and another 500gb IDE internal drive which L think l'm going to partition into two - 40GB to take another operating system, and the remaining 460gb for additional storage.
Sticking with IDE as my board is not SATA compliant and l can't be bothered complicating things by buying additional PATA/SATA converters and drives etc, plus the speed already is more than adequate for my needs.
I've only installed an OS once, the one on my C drive. So how would l install another OS to the 40gb partition (let's CALL it X) on the new larger drive?
When l originally installed Windows it just loaded onto the C drive automatically.
PS I suppose it's easier just to plug in another external drive but that means yet another power supply plug and socket, so l thought l'd add it internally to run off the computers PSU.
Any advice appreciated.
Thank you
1) Why an 80GB drive? Why not get a large drive and create an 80 or 100Gb partition (or larger) as the system partition and then repartition the rest as you like? You can install your primary OS on the c: drive and a DIFFERENT OS on a different partition if you like. OR, you can still add a second internal HD if you like. It's just that I don't see the point of getting such a small hd when the difference in price between an 80GB and a 500GB isn't really all that much.

2) Just insert the OS cd and when the installation starts you'll be asked where you want to install it. Just remember life will be much easier if you install the oldest OS first.Thanks Allan, that's answered my question.
I know that if you buy a computer nowadays it generally comes with just the one stonking large drive.
I thought of two drives because if l just have the one, and lose it for some reason, then l'm stuffed until l get another hard drive to copy the data back onto. (that's me just being pessemistic).
Regards
WTC

*Apologies in advance for posting in the wrong forum if I did*

Good Morning,

I'm trying to burn an ISO image to a CD using Roxio, should I CHOOSE Data option to burn? or audio?

I'm leaning towards Data but I would like someone here to REASSURE me.  Open the ISO and see what type of files are on it. If you don't KNOW what the file extensions stand for, just google it. If it turns out to be an audio format, then burn audio, else burn data.Ignore the post above. It doesn't matter what the content is. The easiest way to burn .iso IMAGES is with a dedicated .iso image burner. Here's one: HTTP://download.cnet.com/Active-ISO-Burner/3000-2646_4-10602452.htmlI have Nero, thanks.

The answers you guys gave me wasnt clear, but i went with my hunch and it worked thanks for getting me to try to download that product but i already have one.

On a Dell XPS desktop running xp pro sp3 i have 4 available RAM slots. According to a Crucial scan i can have up to 1 gb of RAM per slot. I won't go into the TYPE of RAM as i don't think it is relevant to my question. It also stated that if i am running a windows 32 bit system (which i am) it may only recognize 3-3.5 gb of the total of 4 gb if it were installed and if i wanted to be able to access all of it i would need to UPGRADE to a 64 bit system.
  Now here comes the part i want to understand. I currently have 2x256  MB in slots 1 and 2 and 1x512 in slot 3 and slot 4 is empty. It states that RAM modules MUST be installed in pairs. So if that is so and i only have 1 512 why is my "system" showing i have 1 gb of RAM installed (which of course i do). If they must be installed in pairs why is it not showing 512 mb of RAM? truenorthbecause crucial is probably wrong.You meant a separate reading for the 512 RAM module inserted on slot 3? Aside from the pair of 2x256 module for slots 1 and 2.We're talking here about dual channel RAM, which is RECOMMENDED to be installed in pairs.
It doesn't mean, your computer will not read, or use all RAM.
Your RAM will be just slightly slower.
Actually, from what I read, in reality, you won't notice any difference ( to the naked eye).http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dual-channel_architecture
Quote

There have been varying reports as to the performance INCREASE of dual-channel configurations, with some tests citing significant performance gains while others suggest almost no gain.

Tom's Hardware found little significant difference between single-channel and dual-channel configurations in synthetic and gaming benchmarks (using a "modern" system setup). In its tests, dual channel gave at best a 5% speed increase in memory-intensive tasks.[3] An older comparison by laptoplogic.com found a speed advantage of up to 15.3% for the integrated intel GMA900 graphics when utilizing dual channel memory.[4] The test results published by Tom's Hardware had a discrete graphics comparison.

The difference can be far more significant in applications that manipulate large amounts of data in memory. A comparison by TechConnect Magazine demonstrated considerable gains for dual-channel in tasks using block sizes greater than 4 MB, and during stream processing by the CPU

On a Dell XPS desktop running xp pro sp3 i have 4 available RAM slots. According to a Crucial scan i can have up to 1 gb of RAM per slot....

Hello, I'm running a Dell Studio XPS 1640 notebook and running WINDOWS Vista Home Premium (6.0, Build 6002) Service Pack 2 (6002.vistasp2_gdr.100608-0458)

Thtough a friends recent irresponsibility, my computer became infected with a nasty little virus that corrupted my OS BOOT, deleted all restore points, and froze me out of even networking and command prompt options.

After having to reinstall my OS, my computer no longer reads hardware such as my graphics card. Ive run a dxdiag and noticed that my computer doesn't even recognize it. This is consitant with my audio and networking hardware as well.

My question then, is it in my best interest to ship my computer back to Dell for service or is there an at home fix that I can first try?

SPECS from dxdiag
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Duo CPU     T9550  2.66GHz (2 CPUs), ~2.7GHz
Memory: 4090MB RAM
Page File: 1474MB used, 6932MB available
Windows Dir: C:\Windows
DirectX Version: DirectX 11
DX Setup Parameters: Not found
DxDiag Version: 7.00.6002.18107 64bit Unicode

Display Devices
---------------
        Card name:
     Manufacturer:
        Chip type:
         DAC type:
       Device Key: Enum\
   Display Memory: n/a
 Dedicated Memory: n/a
    Shared Memory: n/a
     Current Mode: 1024 x 768 (32 bit) (1Hz)
          Monitor:
      Driver Name:
   Driver Version:  ()
      DDI Version: unknown
   BGRA Supported: No
Driver ATTRIBUTES: Final Retail
 Driver Date/Size: , 0 bytes
      WHQL Logo'd: n/a
  WHQL Date Stamp: n/a
Device Identifier: {D7B70EE0-4340-11CF-E025-7137AFC2CB35}
        Vendor ID: 0x0000
        Device ID: 0x0000
        SubSys ID: 0x00000000
      Revision ID: 0x0000
      Revision ID: 0x0000
      Video Accel:
 Deinterlace Caps: n/a
     DDraw Status: Not Available
       D3D Status: Not Available
       AGP Status: Not AvailableDid you install the  drivers for it??
 

Is Windows Properly recognizing it?

If it showed up like that, then obviously it wouldn't detect the monitor, therefor it probably wouldn't even display properly on the current monitor/device.

Added to that, I don't know what else to say.

I'm glad to be the first to reply, though. HMMM. :/I used the Drivers and Utilities disk that came with it and installed my drivers but to no avail. Sounds like they didn't supply the correct driver disk for your OS (WinVista-64bit).  Go to www.support.dell.com, enter your Service Tag & download all the drivers....starting with chipset driver....

I have been having a problem with a flickering screen. Somebody on a help forum suggested uninstalling the display adapter then rebooting so that Windows would re-install it. I did this, but when I REBOOTED it the adapter wasn't re-installed, instead I found that I had the Standard VGA Graphics Adapter. My computer is now very slow and the display is blocky and the icons and text very large.

How can I re-install my adapter (Intel (R) GMA 946GZ Express CHIPSET Family)? I have googled the adaptor but so FAR have not had much luck.Computer brand and model, please.

Quote

Somebody on a help forum suggested uninstalling the display adapter then rebooting so that Windows would re-install it

I'm at a total lost here. I'm building a computer for the first time and it's not booting up at all. What it does:

I switch on the PSU and the motherboard is powered on (the green light is on) but when I switch on the computer the fans only turn on for only a second and then turns off. No signs of the boot screen or anything on screen. I made sure the PSU connectors are in place but no luck. Is there something I'm missing or does it sound like something is faulty?

Computer Specs:

Windows XP Pro
Asus P5N-D Motherboard
Intel Core 2 Quad 6600
G.Skill 2x2GB DDR2 800 RAM
Corsair TX750W PSU
nVidia GeForce 9800 GTX+

Hard Drives:

Western Digital Caviar Enhanced IDE Hard Drive 120GB
MDL: WD1200BB - 00GUA0

Maxtor DiamondMax 10 PATA133 HDD 200GB
MDL: 6L200R0

I've had the hard drives for a while but they still work on my other computer.There should be a 24-pin ATX power connector and a four-pin auxiliary connector plugged into your motherboard, but more likely I think it could be something with the front panel connectors, which are a little trickier. Make sure to read your motherboard's documentation, as it seems like sometimes the connectors go in "upside-down", and it's really hard to tell which way it plugs in just by looking.

Also, do you have speakers plugged in? I think you need to have them in to hear the motherboard alarm (I don't think motherboards have built-in alarm speakers), but if you hear a beeping sound it usually means something basic is going on, like a wire isn't hooked in correctly. I remember the first time I built a computer and I actually forgot to plug in the supplementary power connector into my graphics card and panicked for a second—and nowadays, some cards even need two of these plugged in.Are all motherboard standoffs in place?

Did you apply thermal paste to the CPU?OH yeah, make sure the standoffs are in place and the motherboard isn't making contact with the case in any way that could short it. Also, if you DROPPED a screw or little metal doodle in there anywhere it could be making contact with the motherboard tray in some weird way… I've taken everything out of my case, held it over my head and shook out a little case screw before, but it wasn't what was causing the issue. The best thing is to go through your motherboard manual again and follow the instructions carefully and double check everything is plugged in correctly, though; CLEANING out the case or trying to boot it up outside the case should be like one of your last resorts.

http://fixingmycomputer.com/

Here are some flowcharts; the top one looks like what you need. 750W should be plenty enough for your rig, especially since you don't have a power hungry multi-GPU system.I applied thermal paste to the cpu and the connectors are in place, double checked to make sure they're secure.

What to you guys mean by motherboard standoffs?

I will take a visit to that site you posted Hearts on Fire.The standoffs are the copper-colored screws that look like this: http://www.evercase.co.uk/images/Accessories/MotherboardStanOff2.jpg

You screw them into your motherboard tray before placing the motherboard down and they separate the motherboard from the case so it doesn't ground/short anything of the electronics. They also secure the motherboard in place on the tray.Ah okay I do have some of those. I will try to put them in now. I hope I didn't do any permanent damage. I will tell you how things go, thank you so much for your knowledge!Yep that's was it, the standoffs. It's running now and it works like a charm. I want to thank you guys for helping me out! I truly appreciate it!COOL
Glad you got it going.

I have following configration computer
Pentium dual core E5300 processor,320GB Hard drive,2GB RAM With Gigabyte G41M-ES2L Board.win xp sp 2.
    I have been facing problem very strang. My computer start automatically,when power plug switch on  without pressing start button on it, and shutdown suddenly. After then i start the computer pressing start button, it doesn't start.
Perhaps there is a short circuit in the Start button wiring, so that the Start button is always "On". This would MAKE your PC start as soon as it is plugged in and then stop after 4 or 5 seconds as if you were holding the Start button.

To test this, unplug the PC, open the computer case and find the 2 small wires that connect the Start button to the mainboard. Unplug the wires from the button or from the mainboard [Remember exactly where they were so you can reconnect them!]

 If you have an ohm meter, test to see if electricity can PASS from one of the wires to the other without pushing the Start button [if so, the button is bad]. 

As a further test, plug in the PC while the Start button is disconnected. If it still starts by itself the problem is somewhere else. If it does not start the button may need to be replaced.
 As PER ur instruction,i disconnected the push button wire and then plug CONNECTED to the  power suplly.At that time cpu fan ran for few second.and also CD ROM Drives LED Bllinking.
Thanking you.So, with the Start button disconnected, does the computer behave at all differently from when the Start button was connected, or is it just the same?

There is one more way to test the Start button.  With Start button disconnected and the computer connected to a power outlet, reconnect the Start button for only a brief moment, not more than 4 seconds, then remove it. This would be like pressing the button, even if the button is actually stuck in the ‘pressed’ position. Does the computer start? If so, install a new button. If not, the problem is elsewhere.

I’m afraid I have no other suggestions for fixing the problem. I hope this solution WORKS for you. Good luck.

thanks that helps heaps... will i get too many heat issues if i overclock the i7 in this machine to 2.5 ghz? can you tell me how overclockable it is with that motherboard and other hardware??will i get many benifits from the overclock? Quote

My computer has 8 gigs of ram. Would you say that's too much?

And Windows 98 will use less resources then Windows XP, and windows 95 even fewer, and windows 3.1 even fewer.

Oh wait... but it won't use the available resources as good as it can? Neither would windows 98SE, nor windows XP (XP 32-bit would not be able to see more then 3.5GB of my 8GB of RAM).

My wife and I each have one of these KEYBOARDS and mouse hooked up to our computers. Our desks are arranged back-to-back so that we face each other. We keep getting interfence from each others keyboard and mouse. Is there anything that I can do to keep this from happening except for one of us giving up our keyboard and mouse or moving our desk?Do the reoievers have channel switch on them ? ?I don't find a channel switch on the receivers. All I find is a sync button.Well other than fabricating a cardboard/tin foil barrier i think 1 of you may have to lose wireless...that or switch to another brand for 1 machine...
NOTE: No guarantees on the latter approach.Patio, FABRICATED a cardboard aluminum foil covered screen and it SEEM to be working. Thanks.Excellent...good WORK.

It is a HP Pavilion Power 15

Specs:

INTEL i7 7700HQ 2.8Ghz
GeForce GTX 1050 4GB
16GB minne 2400Mhz
1x256GB SSD m.2
1TB HDD

I am going to edit mostly GoPro footage. Mostly 2.7k but also 4k video.

What do you think?If you ALREADY own this laptop give it a try.

If your asking because your thinking of buying this laptop for this PURPOSE I'd look for a laptop with a GTX 1080 or better minimum for 4k. Info on google searches show the the GTX 1050 isn't all that strong with 4k rendering at 60 FPS.

Monitors not displaying anything from pc. One of the is a new Samsung with display port cable, the other is older and uses vga. I've recently got a new motherboard and power supply. I've tried swapping the gpu out for an older one, still no go. Not SURE if the PARTS are faulty, or that ngs aren't connected properly, but the PROBLEM STARTED with my old motherboard. Just wouldn't work one morning, after being fine the night before.Without more info I have to refer you to a generic troubleshooting guide:

https://www.lifewire.com/fix-computer-that-turns-on-but-displays-nothing-2624443Do you have another PC to test your monitors? Or a laptop?

I bought the computer about 3-4 YEARS back and the MOTHERBOARD recently died. Can anyone suggest a proper swap? I'm hoping I don't need more than just the motherboard.

ASROCK fm2aa55m-vg3+ is my old motherboard.

Here are some of my computers info...

http://s32.postimg.org/5t65gtp2d/image.jpg

http://s32.postimg.org/3nbumbllx/image.jpg

http://s32.postimg.org/4vv4u7o6d/image.jpg

http://s32.postimg.org/ieklbm7tx/image.jpgWhat makes you sure that it's the motherboard?  That power supply is a dreadful, LOW quality unit so I wouldn't be surprised of that was causing problems.  Even if it isn't the issue I'd strongly recommend REPLACING it anyway before it does cause issues!It's been running the PC for 3-4 years with no issue. I posted on other sites also and the majority said it could be the motherboard. Turned on at one point and didn't display anything on the monitor....shuts off randomly now isn't even turning on. The PSU that's there is brand new also as in installed it 2 days ago. Quote from: DotHaze on May 11, 2016, 06:13:11 PM

It's been running the PC for 3-4 years with no issue. I posted on other sites also and the majority said it could be the motherboard. Turned on at one point and didn't display anything on the monitor....shuts off randomly now isn't even turning on. The PSU that's there is brand new also as in installed it 2 days ago.

...  commonly asked computer questions and answers and basic troubleshooting ...

Hi,

I have a Samsung T220 Syncmaster : https://www.cnet.com/products/samsung-syncmaster-t220/specs/

Connectivity, INTERFACES
1 x VGA - 15 pin HD D-Sub (HD-15)
1 x DVI-D - 24+1 pin digital DVI
     
ASPECT Ratio 16:10
Native Resolution  1680 x 1050 at 60 Hz

Everything was ok with this monitor.
But now when I use VGA on a desktop computer, I see the computer start on the monitor (I see Asus, Dell or Msi…) then I see the windows logo and then the screen became gradient grey and then grey… and again gradient grey and grey…

If I change and connect DVI-D everything work good (on different computers) I can use windows.

I try with Linux it’s the same thing.
I try with different computers and different cables the result is the same.

I also try with another monitor on all the computers and everything work.

The T220 VGA only work if I connect a laptop computer.

Any IDEA to resolve it ?
Thanks
Best regards QUOTE

"Everything was ok with this monitor."

Hi, reaching out for help on a Sony Vaio svs13a1 laptop.

Third gen I5 CPU with 12gb ram, crucial SSD
Separate graphic card plus built in Intel graphics (switchable)

More and more often I'm not getting the Vaio logo at startup.
 This I think indicates POST success.
So only about 1 in 8 times does it get this far.
Rest of the time it just runs the fan and sits with a blank screen and backlit keyboard.

Laptop is old, and done a lot of hours, but I love it and want to keep it going.

Tried removing the removable Ram. Worked first time I did this, but not the second.
Can't remove original 4gb.
Wondering if my next move is the CMOS battery?
Or perhaps lose cable somewhere?

Any ideas please?

An old dog might have hardware problems, motheboard probably. You can test ram with memtest software (boot cd) but ram problems normally produce beeping sounds. Try with entering bios (if you can) and load the defaut values. If you can't ENTER the bios...well, sometimes you must let go your precious ONES (joking)If I were you, I would be taking the laptop apart piece by piece. I had an older Windows 7 laptop that I too LIKED, but it was not posting at all. After I completely disassembled the laptop, literally completely, I cleaned the motherboard with some isopropyl alcohol all over, cleaned the USB ports, cleaned the keyboard, etc. you get the idea. I ALSO did replace the CMOS battery, as well as upgrading to an SSD drive. I really did not think it was going to work, but I had hope considering that after cleaning the board, there was visible brown discoloration on the cloth I wiped it with (came from a smoker). Also added some new RAM, but in your case, this does not sound like an option. It booted up just fine, I installed Windows 10 on it and I still have it.

Since it sounds like you don't have much to lose, I would recommend cleaning it up really well. Don't forget to regrease the CPU when you are in there!

Best of Luck,
Anthony

Hello all,
Been a while since I've had to tap into your knowledge base. I've learned a lot from you guys and through much experience and trial and error I've been able to solve most of my computer building problems on my own so much so that I now do computer building for a living since I have to stay home with my son for "distance learning."

This issue is with my own personal gaming rig, and it's most frustrating because it's a bit of a one-off build on a x99 socket and I don't have a spare motherboard or processor for this socket to test and rule out components.

Specs are as follows:
Motherboard: Asus X99 Deluxe (LGA 2011 ver 3)
CPU: i7-5930k
CPU Cooler: Thermaltake Water3.0 (360mm)
RAM: G-Skill Ripjaws 4 2x8 GB 2800 MHz installed in slots A1 and C1 in dual channel. (I originally had 8 sticks of RGB RAM installed but in chasing this issue I installed known good RAM that is on the QVL list to rule this out)
GPU: Asus Turbo GTX 1070 Ti
Boot Drive: Samsung 950 Pro M.2 NVME SSD 512 GB
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2 TB 7200 RPM HDD
PSU: Corsair RM1000 (I know that's a bit much, lol)
OS: Windows 10 Pro 64 Bit.

The issue: The computer will randomly freeze visual output for about 3-5 seconds, and restart the computer on it's own. No BSOD or error tones or messages. During the period of freezing, if there is audio playing, the audio will continue as normal even though the screen is frozen. As far as overclocking and XMP profiles go, it will do this with or without overclocking or XMP profiles. It can freeze after 3 minutes of usage or 3 hours, it's very random. I can be just idle on the desktop or in a full gaming experience, it doesn't seem to have a preference. One thing I tried was moving the SSD off of a 4x PCIE card onto the actal M.2 slot on the board (it's one of those weird vertical slots and I don't have the holder for it so, I prefer to have it on the card to avoid me accidentally damaging my system with my CLUMSY hands.) - same issue. I also tried reformatting as the OS used to be on a Ryzen system, and I've had problems in the past with Ryzen SOFTWARE and drivers causing problems for Intel systems, so I thought I'd GIVE that a try. Also, as I stated before I used to be using 8 sticks of RGB RAM and swapped down to the RAM kit listed above. According to HW monitor, nothing is overheating, and physically nothing feels hot. I'm close to just swapping out the motherboard and processor for a Z390 and a i5-9600k, but I'd like to get this figured out before it comes to that.

Speccy for those of you who know what to do with it.
http://speccy.piriform.com/results/tdR8C3d8RadKiEpOVANe0Mk/

Could my AB350 Pro4 Motherboard not support UEFI boot to the SSD drive?

I just bought an ssd (Samsung SSD Internal 860 EVO 2.5" (1 To)), I'm able to install windows on it but once it's installed, it restarts the computer and goes directly to the BIOS (or to the start of the installation if I leave my USB key plugged in).

When I go to the BIOS to change the Boot priorities, all I see is UEFI: Built-in EFI Shell, and Disabled. Is it my MOBO? Does someone know anything about this?

Thank you so much in advanceTurn off UEFI and re-boot...what happens ? ?After installing Windows (with CSM disabled), I enable CSM and I get the following message:

I get "Reboot and Select PROPER Boot device
or Insert Boot Media in selected Boot device and press a key" (even though Boot Option #1 is "SATA3_2: Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB").

If I disable CSM and reboot, it goes directly to the BIOS.

I bought my mobo in the US and this SSD in FRANCE, could that be a thing?Looks like Bios can not detect installed Windows on Your SSD
If it's only HDD in boot devices

My friend has an android application development training program, he is french so i'll translate for him
The recommended specs for the training are core i3 processor and 4 gb of ram , he has a 11 year old laptop with an Intel chipset family SERIES 4 and PENTIUM dual core (as informed). He does not have a GPU for his computer and his ram is DDR2 / 3. He wants to know the cheapest option to get the bare minimum so that he can use it for the training. (he will also be using Firebase, UML, and MagIC). He can BUILD computers and wants to know what the cheapest option is to gain the bare minimum requirements

Hey, I am UPGRADING my pc, and while I was removing the ssd and cpu, I NOTICED that i had a small m.2 slot. It was like half the size of the normal ssd slot. I think it is bluetooth. Can someone help me?Which MBoard is it ?There may be info silk screened on the motherboard that will tell you what size m.2 drive can be installed.

This article explains the m.2 various form FACTORS: https://kb.sandisk.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/20971/~/m.2-form-factor-and-m.2-solid-state-drives-information

Hi there, I am having problems with my tower pc, no matter what I TRY, new monitors, reinstalling my graphics card and checking all connections, my COMPUTER SENDS all monitors into sleep mode on startup meaning I can’t even access BIoS settings to CHECK if ANYTHING is wrong.
USB ports are fine so that’s not shorting it

So TODAY i was cleaning the cooler from dust on my laptop, then i try to turn on laptop and he wont.. power indicator is on, battery indicator is on, but no screen. Please help, THANKS!!Is ribbon cable to display connected PROPERLY on main board if you disconnected it?

I also own a Lenovo 110S ... MINE has a passive heatsink. Curious if yours is also passive? Passive MEANS its a heatsink with my cooling fan.

Is there perhaps a setup that allows a person to flip the screen, mouse, and keyboard between two computers? A switch box? That way I can work on both computers when I have only room for one screen.Hi FireMan,
Yes, it's called a KVM Switch. Do a search with any online p/c component vendor and you'll have your choice of many different switches with different video options. VGA, DVI-D, DISPLAY Port & HDMI. Most will work with wireless keyboard/mouse combos.Thank you.Backing up Term_ite, some think it best to get the electronic A-B switch rather than the mechanical A-B switch.  The electronic is more expensive, however, the mechanical's SOLDER "bumps" theoretically could possibly spread and eventually cause a SHORT or an arc which can lead to problems.  I had both, and never had any problems with either one.The temperature inside the KVM would need to get awfully hot (somewhere above 300F) for the solder to melt.  The same could be said for ANY electronic device.  Definitely not SOMETHING I would CONCERN myself with.

I bought this Samsung LS24F350F LCD monitor around 2 years ago. One day, after I had been using it for a few months, it suddenly got really dark. I could hardly see anything. I pressed the button on the back to get into the settings and adjusted the BRIGHTNESS. The picture wasn't as good as ORIGINALLY, but at least I could see. A few months later it happened again. Once again I pressed the button and fiddled around with settings to make the picture acceptable. It happened again a few months later. Today, it happened again. No amount of fiddling with the settings makes the picture acceptable. I can hardly see what I'm typing right now.

Is the monitor dead? Is it NORMAL for LCD monitors to do this within a few months of purchase, and eventually become USELESS only 2-3 years later? Because this never used to happen with monitors. I've had several monitors since the late 80s and they used to last longer than 2-3 years. And I never had this problem with one suddenly going dark every few months.Sounds like the backlight needs replacing.It was the cable. I didn't know you're supposed to use an HDMI cable with this monitor. I was using the same cable I had for the previous monitor which was an old fashioned female PIN cable with an HDMI adapter on the end. I also had it plugged into an HDMI slot which wasn't for the video adapter. So it worked all this time but not well. The display looks great now.

I have a MicroSD card that part way through copying a large batch of files to for the first time reported it was unable to copy any more as it was write protected.  LOADS of spare capacity.

Its NOT write protected as far as its connection device as the micro and std card to USB converter it in has none. Other SD and microSD are fine, def the new Samsung branded card.

The card won't run the repair DUE.........guess what!

The files it did copy are there, readable, but refuse to delete as ............ guess what.

It won't format under Win 10 either as it also says its write protected. Consistent across more than one laptop.  Same for Linux

OK, I should bin it, but out of interest, is there a way of forcing format??You can do it through diskpart utility of Windows 10

1.  Open command prompt and Type "diskpart" to start the utility
2. Type "list disk" to show the list of available disks in the system
3. You can find your SD card by looking for a number of megabytes or gigabytes that correlates with your SD card's storage in the "Size" column
4. Type select disk X (here X stands for the disk number of your SD card
5. Type attributes disk clear readonly
6.  press "Enter" You should see a line of text that reads "Disk attributes cleared successfully" appear in the window below your cursor, signifying that your SD card is no longer write-protected.

Hopefully, it will help you resolve your issue.Thanks.

Did that. No trouble going through it and it CAME up with the right end message.

Still got the write protected lock message though when I tried to alter files or format SD!

Whatever has locked it into write protect mode has done a thorough job!

Not worth more time I think, I just hate to let a machine beat me!!Obvious answer, lock switch is unlocked of COURSE?

Hello everyone. I recently started gaming on a laptop that my brother stopped using 3 months ago. I downloaded a few games like CS:GO and Paladins, in which I had no problem in the first time launching. The first night I played on the laptop, I had gotten around 100+ FPS stable in CS:GO, however, the next day, I noticed that all my games were capped at 49 fps, if not, even fluctuates lower. I thought it was a problem on my GPU, (AMD Radeon 530) so I looked for updates in my system and my gpus and got them up to date just so I could check if it was the problem. Unfortunately, it had not worked out and my laptop still CAPS. I've been looking for solutions the past week, but I have none that had really worked out for me. I've tested fiddling with setting my battery settings to maximize performance, checked Radeon Software Settings to maximize performance, and disabled Vsync. Right now I'm hopeless. It doesn't RUN games like it's supposed to SINCE I believe an 8th Gen i7 processor, AMD Radeon 530, 2 terabytes of HDD STORAGE, and 8 gigs of ram will do more than enough work, but it doesn't.

If there is someone that could help, I would truly appreciate that. Thanks.

Periodically my computer switches itself off. I suspect there is a component in the PSU which is over heating as the PSU case feels warmer than usual.  The top of the computer case also feels the same where the PSU is located.

I’ve noticed when I’ve restarted the computer things begin to settle down,  the case of PSU begins to cool down and can remain that way for several hours, until the computer turns itself off again. I’ve removed one side of the computer to PROVIDE some EXTRA ventilation, even so this may not be enough. Is there anything else I can do?

I’ve been thinking of getting another MACHINE as the one I have is fairly old. Of course, it would have to happen when the country is in lockdown and all the computer suppliers are closed at the moment.

Thanks in advanceHi EdgarIsmael

What are the specs of your computer and what power supply do you have? if the power supply is the problem it is a bad idea to keep using the computer until you can get it fixed. Although it is unlikely to damage the hardware. Windows and your data could become corrupted with being POWERED down.
 
For a checkup you could download speccy from here  https://www.ccleaner.com/speccy/download
And go File/publish report and copy the link here
We should be able to get the Temps and power supply voltages from the report

You will need to supply the power supply model and make.   

Can you not get a powersupply delivered NON contact or do a click and collect.

I recently installed a 2 Terabyte SSD and noticed my computer is not only louder, but my Graphics Card has gained a considerable amount of heat. In December it was only around 54C, but now after a few days of having my new SSD I checked and it is at 75C.

Is this a safe temperature to be at? Did my computer get the coronavirus or something? I usually leave my computer on overnight on WoW and rarely ever turn it off (though I might start turning it off soon.) Is the louder sound from the SSD or the GPU heating up? How would I cool it down? (I'd prefer not to have to buy another fan to install.)


Before SSD installed


After SSD installedHi

Did you copy the 500Gb ssd to the 2TB or was it a clean install of windows ?. If it was a clean install perhaps if windows is still loaded on the 500 Gb SSD boot from that drive. This will help diagnose if it is a HARDWARE problem or drivers. If the card runs cooler on the copy of windows before the upgrade then it is likely it is drivers.
Also is the heat sink / fans on the 1050 card dust free?
 Perhaps I mistyped my post, but I actually had someone install the 2TB SSD for me, so I am not sure on how exactly he went about doing that. Is there a way I could check on my own?

Also, I used compressed air to clean my computer not too long ago, so it should be clean.The heat increase is not just the Graphics card. Everything looks to have a higher temperature.

CPU went up 25 degrees, Motherboard went up 20 degrees, Even the existing Samsung EVO Drive went up 9 degrees.

My first suspect would be that whomever installed the drive somehow messed up the airflow in the case in some manner. Thankyou for the reply.

When you got the computer back after the 2TB drive was installed did you have all your  programs and data still on it. I mean did it look exactly the same as with the old drive. If you check the 500 GB drive does it have a windows folder and a users folder with your data on there as well ?
You could also go file publish report in speccy. Then copy the link to the report here. This will have the driver versions as well as the windows install date, if the Windows install date is the same as when the 2 TB was installed then it could be a problem with windows setup or Drivers.

Or more likely what BC_Programmer suggested 
Like a case fan was noisy and was disconnected maybe 
Yes, everything on my computer is the same except I had more storage. He installed the 2TB alongside my old SSD, so here is how my storage looks (nothing inside my old storage):


Here is my Publish Report: http://speccy.piriform.com/results/YixapMrtsbgFA7DrkolfkDS (I got my computer back on the 13th, and the SSD was probably installed between the 10th and the 12th (more than likely the 11th or 12th.) It is also worth mentioning that shortly after I got the computer, I reinstalled Windows 10 for unrelated issues that have since been resovled.
Thanks again,

Have you checked BC's suggestion about the case fans.

Yes the 500GB ssd is blank so there is not another windows version to test with. It looks like the 500 GB drive was imaged to the 2TB which is a the normal way to do this.   Also you seem to have reloaded windows 4/14/2020 10:11:11 PM , used driver booster to get the drivers.You would be better using the MSI drivers from here

https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/B350M-GAMING-PRO#down-driver&Win10%2064

The motherboard bios is at version 2.9 the Latest version is 7A39v2Ls. With the computer using the Ryzen 5 1600 for the board to support that chip you need bios version 7A39v23 or later. This could have been some of the issues you have been a having.

https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/B350M-GAMING-PRO#down-bios
Thank you ma'am.

I can see inside my computer since the door is clear, and my fans look slightly dusty but otherwise fine. I downloaded all of the drivers in the first link you provided, and also downloaded the 7A39v2L bios. After extracting the zip files though, I am unsure of where to put them.

Edit: I tried using the MSI Live Update and it looks like it updated a bunch of stuff. Did it do everything right? http://speccy.piriform.com/results/JMVQhCXFOP7ZpLOoWDDhuyJHi

Using the MSI Live Update  will have the same effect as loading the CORRECT drivers individually so was a good thing to do. And you shouldn't need to load anymore drivers.

If you want to update the bios it is better to read the "howto update the bios on msi motherboards". Updating the bios will not fix the HIGH temps just improve the computers stability.

Can you use add/remove programs to remove driver booster as this section of the speccy report shows it is on a schedule.

Is the ambient temperature where you are quite high at the moment, as a computer will normally run 10 to 30 degrees C above ambient temperature.
 
Sorry, where do I go to update the bios? I removed Driver Booster, is it bad that it was on schedule?

I am in Southern California but it isn't too hot right now.Driver Booster is pure garbage...lucky you got rid of it.Hi again

The MSI live update is supposed to have the option of doing a bios update from within windows if you check here  https://www.msi.com/page/live-update-5-manual

I would of thought that if you go into the Bios itself and the computer is connected via Ethernet to the internet if should have an option there to update the bios from the internet.
Seems MSI doesn't offer this feature here is a u tube link of how to do a bios update on an MSI motherboard  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SgTokymDCcs
He gives the warnings so I don't need to remind you of the risks, all care no responsibility