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Hello everyone, I am been wanting to build my own computer for a very long time. I know my way a round computers, but the one thing that I cannot get a fair and balanced answer on is Intel still better to pick then AMD? For amd I am talking about there Ryzen CPUS. I NEVER really worked with ryze before in my life. All of the computers that I had worked on had been Intel. I know that AMD has been crushing it when it comes to benchmarks and they are close or right on intels tail. The only pro that I have found on intel is its still has the strongest single core performance. I am not a fan BOY of intel, just been using them for a long time, but I am not afraid of picking AMD, I just want to make a SMART purchase.

Hi there guys? So, I was thinking about recycling a case that I got and re-use it by adding new PC parts and convert it into a PC gaming desktop. However, the case I got is made by Emachine and the problem is that I can not find the original name of the case I am using now. I made my research, and when I did that I didn't find the original name or brand of the case.

Moreover, to make it clear for you guys I took some pictures for the Case I am using, and I need to know what are the PC parts that I can use to fit the case and convert the case into a gaming PC. I am not looking for an expensive build. However, I am living in Egypt, and as you know that the economy in Egypt is really inflated and kind of expensive. However, my budget for that PC is GOING to be 10,000 EGP minimum and 11,000 EGP maximum. After some time of thinking, I FOUND that using an AMD graphic card will be a good choice because it is kind of cheaper than Nividia in minecountry. So, I would like to use an AMD graphic card if it is possible with the build otherwise I go for Nividia, but I hope it is sold for a good and cheap price. Furthermore, the PC will be used for the games that got good graphics and also I will use it for all the Photo Editing software; like Photoshop, Illustrator, InPage, an all the Adobe Programs. The PC will be used for all the games that got some good graphics in it.

Here are the pciture of my Case that I using it now.



NOTE: Also, if I posted that post on the wrong section, I would really appreciate if the forum moderator or admin can move the thread to the correct section insted of LOCKING it guys. Thank you.

INSIDE pics would help... Quote from: patio on May 30, 2020, 06:24:07 PM

Inside pics would help...

You need to replace the whole computer. In Acer Emachines everything is custom. The only items you can re use are the DVD drive and hard drive and the hard drive in the computer is slow so you would be better with an SSD drive.

Yep , question is above, I put RAM into a Dell XPS 17 702X  and logged into Windows 7 and could not use the wireless: Only the Ethernet icon appeared looking for an Ethernet CABLE and it told me no Connections were available. When I ran the connection troubleshooting, it just told me I needed an ethernet cable plugged in. How can I get the wireless back? I've tried  taking a stick out, same problem, tried  putting the original RAM back in (4GB) . Did not help. The new RAM was 16GB and I bought the RAM after contacting DELL who knew the exact PC model when helping me. (Bought what they sold me over the phone. Currently the new RAM is in the PC.)

Thank You

This is not likely your RAM causing the issue.  I would recommend making SURE you haven't accidentally turned off your laptop's wifi.

https://downloads.dell.com/manuals/all-products/esuprt_laptop/esuprt_xps_laptop/xps-l702x_setup%20guide_en-us.pdf
Pages 16 & 17 will help you try to turn it back on again.

The other likely issue is that while installing the RAM you may have dislodged the wireless card or cables on your laptop.

https://downloads.dell.com/manuals/all-products/esuprt_laptop/esuprt_xps_laptop/xps-l702x_service%20manual_en-us.pdf
Page 22 will show you what that looks LIKE.  I'd check and make sure the power connections are properly seated.

Best of luck!Nyako,
Please let us know if it really was the RAM upgrade.
Have you tried going back to the old RAM?

Does hardware manager show the wireless thing is active?
For help using hardware manager:
https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-open-device-manager-2626075
Here's where to find Device Manager in Windows 10, 8, 7, Vista, or XP
Quote

The other likely issue is that while installing the RAM you may have dislodged the wireless card or cables on your laptop.

My Issue: My monitors aren't detecting any connection from two of my computers. Only a day or so AGO they were displaying one of the computers perfectly fine. I am currently using one of my older computers on said monitors. My current theory is that something went wrong with the graphics CARDS in the affected computers. What I cant seem to figure out is why, even if the cards are removed, can't I get the display from attaching the cables directly to the motherboard. I just purchased one of the affected computers from a friend and it was working fine for him (I had used it previously just to check). The graphics cards I'm using on these computers are a gt 660 (?) and a gtx 710. I've reset everything, I've SWITCHED out cables, I've unplugged anything unnecessary, nothing seems to be working. Can anyone help me fix it or supply me with sufficient input on what parts I may need to switch out. I also don't have access to the specs because for the most part I didn't start with the computers and didn't receive all the information.  let's start at the basics and work up from there.

remove any add-on graphics CARD from one of the PC's.
and just connect one monitor for the time being.
if you get a signal on the monitor and can get into BIOS, check the display settings in there.
some motherboards only allow one monitor despite having multiple display outlets, however that was more with older boards, most boards for ages now, detect multiple monitors on the inbuilt ports.
other motherboards also disable the inbuilt ports if an add-on card is detected.

are old is all the gear?
and it was working until recently?

as to specs, thry this;
get Speccy from here; https://www.piriform.com/speccy/builds in Speccy, click File > Publish SNAPSHOT > Copy to Clipboard > Close.
 now you can paste(Ctrl+V) that link into a post.

Hello everyone!

A couple DAYS ago I put together a old new computer from parts I got from my neighbor. He gave me an AMD 4400+ AM2 CPU, an ASUS SLI-M2N68-LA Motherboard, a couple 1GB sticks of RAM and a GeForce 210.

I have assembled computers before, but I am not sure what is wrong with this. When the GPU is plugged into the PCIe slot, and the monitor is plugged into the VGA on the GPU, the monitor just goes into power-saving mode. When I first start the computer, I cannot see the BIOS splash screen. I can use my TeamViewer just fine. That is how I figured out that my computer is still working, just not the display.

When I take out the GPU and plug the monitor into the motherboard slot the computer works fine. I can use my Windows 10 OS fine. When the computer first starts, I can see the BIOS splash screen and access the BIOS. In the BIOS, I have adjusted the Primary Video Adapter to the PCIe x16 slot. I don't even know what to think about this problem. When I go to the NVidia website and download the drivers for my card using TeamViewer, the installer says that there is not any compatible hardware installed. I don't even know what to do.

I installed the NVIDIA drivers by FORCE, making it install anyway using TeamViewer. Probably not the smartest decision, but no going back. Anyway, I tried my monitor and it still won't work. I shut it down and pulled out the GPU. I turned the computer back on, and the DEVICE Manager still said it was the same GPU installed, same location and everything. It leads me to BELIEVE that Windows isn't even finding my GPU.

Any help is appreciated!
sounds like a dead video card. You should at least see a POST screen even if the drivers are wrong or corrupt. No post screen with video card to me means the video card is likely bad.

Only other thing would be if the video card is going to a resolution higher than the monitor can sync to, but you should still see post info before windows loads even if that was the case I feel as it wont go to that resolution setting until Windows loads.

In another post I mentioned I was interested in a WD Sata hard DRIVE and was curious what the other plugins are besides the power and Sata plugins. You guys may call them sockets. Here is what I'm talking about. It is to the right of the aforementioned plugins. A GOOD view is the FOURTH PICTURE from the top to the left of the hard drive picture.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Cache-Desktop-Drive-WD10EZEX/dp/B0088PUEPK/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526176636&sr=8-1-fkmr3&keywords=sata+hard+drive+wd+blue+1TAre you referring to the pins that are on the right-side of the connector block?

Those aren't for a connector- they are jumper headers.

They are used for certain specific configuration features- you place a jumper block which will short between TWO pins.

In the case of the WD Blue in particular, they are used during certain phases of initial factory configuration. It can also be used to disable the use of spread-spectrum clocking used in the drive's logic to reduce EM emissions.Thanks BC_Programmer, just curious.

Hey y'all. I have a Macbook running OS High Sierra.

I made the mistake of removing my external hard drive without ejecting it properly and I THINK it corrupted my files.


I have an external drive (LaCie, 1 TB) that is not showing up on my desktop or my Disk Utility. I've used a different cord, I've tried plugging into my roommate's computer. Nothing.


It's lighting up like it's plugged it, but it's making a small beeping noise. It's not registering at all anywhere.

I don't really care if I lose the data, it's just some mods for my games and some OLD photos. But I NEED the drive because my dang computer has such little hard drive space I cannot partition my computer without an external drive.

But I can't even find the disk to mount it in order to erase it and start fresh.... HELP.

I have not had this drive for very long at all, about 2 months.

I wanna scream. I spent literally like $90 on this.I'd return the drive under warranty...i have never had good luck with that brand at all.+1 with Patio - return it for replacement.Lacie has an excellent return policy, used it myself a few times over the years with a couple of their EXTREME USB sticks and one of their rugged external drive units.
the physical drive inside will either be a Toshiba, Hitachi, SEAGATE or Western Digital so judging by the name on the external badge is misleading, in this sort of case where one company uses other companies parts, it's the reputation of the visible brand name that gets hurt so they need, and have, a very good return process.
for the times I've used them, I bypassed the retailer where I got them from (although you could certainly go to them as you are entitled to do) and liaised directly with Lacie.
Good point...it should ne noted LaCie does not make HDD's

Does my build fit into a Corsair AIR 540 ATX MID TOWER case?

i7 8700k
Noctua - NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler
Gtx 1070
ASRock z370 Taichi
Corsair Vengeance 2x8 ddr4 3000 ram
Samsung - 860 Evo 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive
EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Asus - DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer
Windows 10You would have to look up the case specs/dimensions...the Noctua is kinda big...also clearance for the RAM by the cooler needs checked for the MBoard.

hi, I don't even KNOW if I'm posting on the right place but I have a PROBLEM that I cant figure out. I had to get a replacement computer and its a really bad one. my old computer let me connect to the 5.0 ghz wifi at my house but now only the 2.4 shows up. in properties it SAYS 802.11 bgn whatever that means. So is there a WAY to get 5.0 ghz on my computer like an adapter perhaps? thank you.Adding a dual-band network adapter would be my suggestion such as using a device like this one here: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=0XM-0076-000D7&cm_re=Wireless_5Ghz-_-0XM-0076-000D7-_-ProductWhat Dave said.  The wifi adapter you have in your current computer only supports 2.4Ghz so if you want it to support 5Ghz you will NEED to replace the wifi adapter with one that does.

How LONG does it TAKE before a POST is APPROVED? All yours have been approved...for AWHILE now.

My wife just recently, got a new phone an we took the micro card out of her old phone which, has pictures of
The kids an videos. Its showing that there is no files but, that tge space is usedHi Bob

I'm not sure what card you are meaning. These days there is the simm card supplied by the cellphone company, the phones internal MEMORY and then you could have a micro sd card for additional storage. The movies and photos will either be on the old phones internal memory or the micro sd card. If the old phone is still working it WOULD be best to make a copy of the photo's and movies to a computer and then copy the one's you want onto the new phone.
It's a good idea  to have a REGULAR backup in the cloud or a local copy. If you are interested in how to do this I will need a make and model of the new phone to get detailed instructions.Not sure what that has to do with it not seeing the card1st off it's a micro SD card...not Ad.

Secondly have you tried moving them to the PC using the old phone ? ?...not all phone formats are the same and i SUSPECT this is the issue...
Its A android phone an thought it would take without issues. It auto corrected for some reason. Now the old phone won't SEE the files

Hi!
This is the 1rst time I have tried to upgrade a processor with a new one I have found online, so here is the story
I have a Hp Pavilion p6310y system model AY747AAR-ABA Bios:5.16  With a AMD Athlon II X4 630 Processor (4CPUs) 2.8gHz 10240mb ram. Windows 7 64-bit
I have purchased this : ORIGINAL AMD Phenom II X4 965 3.4 GHz Quad-Core (HDZ965FBK4DGM) Processor CPU from ebay.
Once received I carefully switched the processors and once the pc turned on I got the "Error Unsupported CPU Installed. PC will power off"
So I don't get why it would not be compatible if its along with the compatible cpu upgrades on the official list : Supports the following processors:
AMD Phenom II X4 9xx/9xxe/8xx Quad-Core (Deneb) https://support.hp.com/ca-en/document/c01959720

Any help? Did I miss a STEP?
You might need to be running a specific BIOS version to support that CPU. Additionally HP sometimes has 2 or 3 different motherboards for the same product line, so you may want to verify that that specific motherboard you have and Rev is supported for this CPU. *Most issues like this are resolved through a BIOS flash which adds the microcode for the better CPUs.

If you need to flash your BIOS you will need to put the original CPU back in. Flash it forward and then upgrade.

Last time I needed a BIOS flash for a HP it was a board manufactured by ASUS and then I have to track down that board through ASUS to find a BIOS flash for it as for HP didnt have the BIOS flash. HP has a bunch of different companies that they buy boards from. If your lucky its a ASUS or other board that will have a good brand with support to back it.Everything checks out about the board with your bios supporting the CPU. Have you tried re setting the cmos with the jumper as shown here.

https://support.hp.com/ca-en/product/hp-pavilion-p6300-desktop-pc-series/4079858/model/4120041/document/c01925562

If it still doesn't work then it's very odd. From what I can find by looking into the motherboard's more specific details, the Max TDP of the CPU is 95W. The Phenom has a TDP of 125W. This could be the cause of the error.Nice catch BC...From here at this link I found the info that I shared as quoted:
https://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Desktop-Hardware-and-Upgrade-Questions/Processor-upgrade-compatability-with-motherboard/td-p/6011217

Quote

The Pegatron M2N78-LA (Violet) motherboard supports the following processor upgrades:
AMD Athlon X2 (Bt)
AMD Athlon 64 X2 up to 6000+ (W)
AMD Phenom Triple-Core up to 8xxx (AM2+) (Toliman)
AMD Phenom Quad-Core 9xxx series (AM2+) up to 9850 (Agena)

Socket AM3 processors are able to run on Socket AM2 and AM2+ motherboards with appropriate BIOS updates, BUT not VICE versa.

Hello TRIBE ,

I have a Dell XPS 8700 12gb ram, i7-4770 processor 64-bit desktop GeForce GT 635 video CARD  in great shape and I am trying to edit video using Coral Video Studio X9. I get very choppy almost fuzzy video through out, from the edit process to even after  I render it and upload to youtube. My question is, What can I do to solve this problem with minimal cost. I try my best to work with what I have and MAYBE make an upgrade if needed. I appreciate any help!GT 635 video card is weak. Assuming you have tried the latest NVidia drivers and that didn't fix the issue...

Replacing it with a GTX card I feel will fix your issue The GTX 1050 is a decent recent video card not a bad price. It also comes in a version that doesn't require the 12volt molex connection if your system doesn't have the power supply with these connections.

I bought a GTX 1050 for $120 6 months AGO. My only issue to have to return it was that the DVI to VGA adapter didn't work, and I found out that the DVI port on video cards after the GTX 780 are no longer backwards compatible to VGA, so since I had a VGA monitor, I ended up going with a used GTX 780 for $100 so that I could use the DVI to VGA adapter and not have to replace my monitor. If your display is VGA only, then you will have to get a 700 series GTX card like I had to do. *Note: I had to upgrade my power supply to take the GTX 780 as for it has the 12 volt molex connections to power the video card.

I have a system with a GT 630 video card and its PRETTY sad for performance and is close in performance to yours. Here are some benchmarks.

This is the GT 635
https://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=GeForce+GT+635

This is the GTX1050
https://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=GeForce+GTX+1050&id=3596

This is the GTX780 if you need VGA connection benchmark
https://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=GeForce+GTX+780&id=2525

Greetings CH members!

Long time, but I have to get a few second opinions cause im racking my head in whats up with this THING. Buddy of mine brought me his Lenovo T460s Thinkpad that refuses to wake from sleep. You close the lid or hit sleep in windows, and the power button does the classic "apple breathing" but no matter what you do afterwards it won't wake up. You gotta power it down and reboot.

I decided to mess with it a bit, and discovered it refuses to even power down properly (most of the time). I pulled the batteries to see it SHUTS off properly then, but sleep is no different.

The sleep issue occurs in Ubuntu as well as a CLEAN windows install does eradicate the issue either. I have attempted to do a BIOS update through their utility as the version running is v1.13 and the latest update is v1.31 however upon restart to install the BIOS update it GOES to sleep or whatever state its at thus not going through.

Certain forums suggested a BIOS reset, pull the CMOS etc. and none of those have worked. Attempting to install the update without the batteries, doesn't work as the utility wants a battery just in case plugged in.

Can anyone muster any other suggestions, because im running out of ideas? If this sleep symptom happens in LINUX as well it's a BIOS setting...
Personally i would put in a Help ticket at Lenovo...

I have been having issues with my HP DESKJET printer since we changed our router and the network password with it. It would refuse to print anything most of the time unless I connect to it as an open device on the network listing (Which I'm pretty sure is something it is not supposed to be doing) but EVEN that sometimes would not work. It would print one document then it would not print the rest.

It is also a wireless printer.

Remove printer software using Add/Remove....remove the printer in Device Manager...power Down.
Re-boot and re-install printer software....NOTE: if USB printer do NOT connect it til sofware prompts you.
Then run the printer network setup from scratch...

first of all, this build is meant old and cheap because my challenge was to find the best parts for the cheapest price and my goal was to play borderlands 2 at max, it did btw .

here are my specs:

GPU:AMD radeon hd6450 2gb from sapphire
RAM: 1 stick 4gb samsung
CPU: intel core i3-2130
Motherboard: GA-H61-S3 from gigabyte
PSU: 500w from Trendtech
*the monitor that i am using is an old apple DISPLAY 17inch*

my issue is that the pc turns on without a beep and all the fans are still RUNNING while there is no output to the monitor, the monitor uses dvi-i and only dvi-i but the CARD has dvi-d.

i have cleaned the ram multiple times, taken out the card and just used the motherboard graphics (don't work), used a different monitor and with HDMI and VGA, checked the cpu, tested the PSU. I really don't know what the problem is. Please help!
Is the RAM on the MBoard QVL list ? ?...incorrect RAM can cause these exact symptoms...Here's The List...patio im not following, my ram is 1600mhz and my motherboard says "Support for DDR3 1333/1066/800 MHz memory modules" is that an issue? All RAM is not equal...1600 is just the speed...QVL = lab tested and approved for your MBoard...then its goodWhat is good...the RAM ? ?
If it's not the RAM and you've tried onboard/ card/ and 3 different connections i suspect the monitor...Right, I agree. You've checked using the card so ram apparently isn't the issue. Not remembering dvi flavors but I'm thinking dongle... Dvi-i CARRIES analog & digital, dvi-d only digital. Is the monitor known to have ever worked? Can you test the dvi-d out OTHERWISE?


Mac

...the storey so far:

We've had an Asus X551C Notebook for a few years but it just suddenly gave up and wouldn't start. We tried re-charging the battery but no luck.

We put it to one side and forgot about it for a few weeks, then by chance just tried starting it up again and it whirred and worked!  This was not to last, unfortunately, and we are back to square one with no startup.

I've tried replacing the battery but it's not resolved the issue.  When I fitted the new battery, the charging light did the usual and glowed orange and then green when I connected the charger so I think something is going right.

When the power switch is pressed (connected to charger) the green light goes off, whilst pressing.  When the power switch is pressed (not connected to charger) there is no green light.

Is there any hope?  What could I try next, please?

It has Windows 10 loaded.Des this notebook work without the battery installed?  Many do work with only the AC adapter giving poser to the notebook.
Hello, Geek-9pm and thanks for your reply. 

The battery is a bit of a pain in this model as it's hidden away internally under the keyboard.  I've taken it out and tried it without the battery but unfortunately, no startup!An update on events:

I dug down and replaced the CMOS battery and reassembled the notebook.

Without the charger attached I tried the on/off switch and nothing happened (One green LED lit up on the notebook, the one for the battery).

I connected the charger and pressed the on/off switch and the notebook booted up properly (two green LEDs lit up on the notebook, one for the battery and the other for the charger).

I tried a restart and disaster struck as it didn't reboot! (Only one LED lit up, the one for the charger.)

The notebook has the functionality to RUN the OS but appears to be having power supply PROBLEMS or is it a completely different issue? Any further ideas of what to try WOULD be great.My recommendation is to find a replacement charger.

A quick check on eBay shows that model is popular and varies in price.
At this point you need some way to verify the AC charger. A replacement charger, used, is about $15 to $30, which is a bit cheaper than a new battery. So buying a new charger would be the cheapest way to verify the  charger, unless you have a volt meter  and know how to test the charger.

A used Asus X551C Notebook goes for about $ 200 on eBay,. But you would have no guarantee. But one vendor claims he will sell a warranty for one year for $35.

Another test would be to find some way to CHARGE the battery without using the charger. If that resolves the issue, then you know the charger system is not  working right.
Part of the charger circuity is inside the laptop. So you could have a good charger, and good battery and still not be happy. 


Hello, Geek-9pm and thanks for your reply.

I tested the output from my charger with a voltmeter and it is chucking out about 18v so it looks like that bit is working.  I think your suggestion that it may be internal circuitry is probably more to blame.  The on/off switch or seating of the CMOS battery may get my attention.

It is so frustrating because the OS will run fine when it flickers into life!  It didn't like the shutdown.The battery and cahrging cirluity arfe seperated inside the laptop. I thing the battery can run the lapto even if the charge ciucrity is not working. (I have not seen the scematic for yhour laptop, so I am not sure.)

If you like to experiment, try this:
Using paper clips and duct rape and wire, righ up a way to give a quick charge to the battery. Limit the current to less tgaht 1 amp.Try a 22ohm resitor to limit the current to the battery  Or 10 ohm for more current flow.
Anyway, even 500 milliamp for twenty minuestes should give the battery enoguh to start up the laptop.

Otherwise, you may have to open up the laptop and start checking things. It is posible tghat the power on button is broke or is dirty.Hello, Geek-9pm and thanks for your latest reply.

Just playing around, I tried the following...

Took the battery out and pressed the on/off switch for 30 seconds and put the battery back in.

Tried starting with just the battery but no luck.

Connected the charger and both leds lighted up and the laptop started!

I can only think that pressing the on/off switch for 30 seconds did something.  Does this point towards any particular component?

I haven't dared turn the laptop off yet!Holdin the power button in like that without battery displaces all residual power and allows a proper re-boot.Hello, Patio and thanks for your reply.

The battery in my laptop is internal so can only be reached by taking the keyboard off!  Does this behaviour suggest a particular component has failed that I can replace?I would just heep using it normally...if it arises again unfortunately its a job for the SHOP...Hello, patio and thanks for your reply,

I'm able to take the keyboard off and get to the battery and that's how I did this re-start by pressing the on/off with the battery out.  It's obviously not something that I want to do very often so I was hoping to replace whatever part is faulty.As i stated that would take a shop visit to determine the culprit...

Hello,

Some time ago I brought my PC to a technician because it would not boot at all, when I pressed the power button the COMPONENTS turned on but nothing was actually displayed on my screen. He told me the motherboard was shorting because I had badly installed it in my case, and my CPU wasn't correctly installed either. After I installed it back home I decided to make a fresh START and reinstalled windows. Everything was fine until I noticed my computer froze once or maybe twice when I was installing some programs, I didn't mind at the time, but since I installed some games I noticed my computer was freezing after a few minutes in game.

I started looking for fixes and found this: https://www.drivereasy.com/knowledge/solved-windows-10-freezes-locks-up-randomly-easily/

So I tried:

-Updating my drivers: everything is up to date, even my BIOS.

-Running a memory check: no errors.

-Resetting my virtual memory: nothing.

-Checked my hard drives: no errors.

-Running a system file checker: everything is fine.

-Disabling C-states: actually worsened the situation, I couldn't get to my OS (maybe froze between the BIOS loading thingy and the OS showing).

I came to the conclusion that my hardware was actually at fault, but I can't be sure as when I monitor my hardware with HWMonitor I can't see anything suspicious: temperatures are normal, fans are spinning etc. But my pc keeps freezing (and I mean freezing, no shutting down, no reboot, just my screen displaying the same frame forever without sound or any COMPONENT shutting down either) after a few minutes in games and even on windows sometime when I was moving some folders through my hard drives if that means anything. I have read somewhere that it could be my crappy PSU, but it could be that my motherboard is still shorting I guess. I haven't considered my GPU or CPU being responsible as they both run pretty normally and are of good quality unlike my PSU.

I'll write down my specs, help me please, I could buy a new PSU myself but I'd rather not throw 100€ on a PSU if I'm not sure it is responsible.

- OS: Windows 10, 64, Pro N.
- MB: MSI Gaming 970
- CPU: AMD fx-9590
- RAM: 8 Gb DDR3
- GPU: GTX 970
- PSU: Xilence 600W
- HD: SSD 120g (My OS), SATA 500g (If i recall correctly)

No, english is not my FIRST language, also, I can provide more precise infos about my rig if necessary.

PS: Tomorrow I'll try powering my GPU with my 600W PSU only and the rest of the components with a spare PSU, stop me now if you think it's a bad idea. I will also run a benchmark.


Hi

A check of your motherboard and CPU shows that the motherboard doesn't support 200 watt and above CPU's.
Your CPU is 220 Watts so will be having all sorts of problems.   
Perhaps either a lower wattage CPU, which is on the motherboard list.
Or a motherboard/CPU upgrade.  If you want to use it for gaming I would upgrade the motherboard rather than downgrading the CPU. If you want to stick with an AMD maybe check out a Ryzen.

Thinking about finally biting the bullet and buying a new desktop to replace my 11+ yo HP. What is the easiest way to transfer my files and software? Since I will be using the same OS, WIN 10 Home, I would like to simply install a backup image of my current HD on the new rig. That way I don’t have to uninstall bloatware and spend a lot of time configuring. I want everything on the new PC to be EXACTLY the same as my current CONFIGURATION. Is this possible? I ask because I know the OS is married to a particular processor. Is it simply a matter of calling MS to get approval? Thanks.

PS   Just remembered my current Win 10 is 32bit and the new one will likely be 64bit. I’m guessing this is a showstopper?
While programs like Acronis True Image offer the ability to restore to a different system (Acronis Universal Restore: https://kb.acronis.com/ati2016/aur), I strongly recommend a clean install of everything. That's always the best way to start with a new computer. Quote from: Allan on January 08, 2018, 05:44:02 AM

While programs like Acronis True Image offer the ability to restore to a different system (Acronis Universal Restore: https://kb.acronis.com/ati2016/aur), I strongly recommend a clean install of everything. That's always the best way to start with a new computer.

What I do is download all drivers and put them on a usb drive. Then I format the drive, install Windows and partition the drive as I like, install the drivers, install an anti virus app, and download all Windows Updates. I then create a new image so I have a safe have that is a good starting point in the event it's necessary to start again, and then install desired apps (creating multiple images along the way).

My bios wont recognize two hard drives at the same time. Trying two run two solid state drives, with two different operating systems on them instead of dual booting. The bios will only detect on drive at a time when plugged in. If i plug them both in TOGETHER, the bios will only read the first drive in Sata 1 spot, and will only read the second drive, when i unplug the first drive. Never at the same time. The bios will however read an optical drive and on of the hard drives together at the same time, with the same cable and power connector as one of the hard drives. So i know its not a data cable or power cable problem. It just has something to do with two hard drives plugged in at the same time. Dont know what to do and thats why i am posting here. Does it have something to do with the bios? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
ThanksThis is from dictation.
it would help if you would provide some details about the make and model of your computer and also the code for the be BIOS. The BIOS should have a version number or a code number that identifies when it was last updated or revised.
The behavior you describe with the use of SATA solid-state drive is the normal behavior for most desktop and laptop computers. Even though there is space inside to put two drives, and there are two separate channels to connect the drives, only one of the drives will be eligible for boot. Below is a typical boot loader found in many desktop computers.
1. Check to see if there is say disk in the DVD drive, if so try to boot from it.
2. Check to see if the first hard drive is bookable.
3. Boot from some other device.
Before you started this experiment, did you have some source or reference that indicated to you it would be easy to boot from either one of two SATA drives?   from my own personal experience the only way I can get my system to boot from another hard drive is to use some type of boot manager either inside of Windows 10 or else inside of a Linux distribution. Are you using Windows 10 and have you attempted to set up a secondary hard drive and say boot partition using the utility program such as Easy BCD?
Here is the link to our you can get a copy of the EasyBCD.
http://neosmart.net/EasyBCD/

It is free for non-commercial use. For use in a business they ask you to buy it.
I hope this information helps you out.
I apologize for my lack of detail on my motherboard. I have a GIGABYTE GA-970A-D3P REV.2.0, and the most current bios which is 2/26/2016. I will use some of the advice you gave me. Thanks for your help, and any other help is also appreciated.There is absolutely nothing wrong with the BIOS...
It will default on boot to the last SSD you booted to...this is by design.
You use the BIOS to select which 1 to boot to at startup.
Next time you reboot it'll remember the last choice.
This is actually the cleanest and most trouble-free dual-boot setup as opposed to multi-OS's on 1 HDD....so be thankful.

Note: After boot the OS should recognise both SSD's and you should be able to access both.
If this isn't happening then you have an issue...

Geek is speaking to a boot manager...thats when installed both HDD's were present...ignore that...you don't need it.
Simply enter Setup at boot...select boot drive...and yer good to go.

P.S...  all my dual boot setups have been done this way.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with the BIOS...
It will default on boot to the last SSD you booted to...this is by design.
You use the BIOS to select which 1 to boot to at startup.
Next time you reboot it'll remember the last choice.
This is actually the cleanest and most trouble-free dual-boot setup as opposed to multi-OS's on 1 HDD....so be thankful.

Note: After boot the OS should recognise both SSD's and you should be able to access both.
If this isn't happening then you have an issue...

Geek is speaking to a boot manager...thats when installed both HDD's were present...ignore that...you don't need it.
Simply enter Setup at boot...select boot drive...and yer good to go.

P.S...  all my dual boot setups have been done this way.

P.S.S   "" Trying two run two solid state drives, with two different operating systems on them instead of dual booting.""...if this is your goal it cannot be done...you can only run 1 OS at a time...

Hope this clarifys things.The issues the OP has don't appear to be related to booting. They have two SSD's, but cannot get both to be visible to the BIOS at the same time. If the drive isn't visible to the BIOS it's not going to be available to boot from in any BIOS boot manager.

I wonder if it could be the PSU? SSD's consume quite a bit more of the 5V rail than an optical drive, so if your PSU's 5V rail is used near capacity then adding another SSD could CAUSE issues with the BIOS detection. Though it being consistent with which drive appears (specific slot) would seem to be unusual in that case.

The OP says he has a Gigabyte board that has the GIGABYTE UEFI DualBIOS™
The seems to be a specific issue with that feature-rich BIOS..
Here is a video from Gigabyte.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7EZ9F4paLRU
It is about the graphical presentation of the BIOS.
But some users grip about some details.
Gigabyte Dual BIOS: a nightmare
Quote

I have own a Gigabyte Z68XP-UD4 for almost a year and I'm truly disappointed on the system. Dual Bios should be a great idea, but in practice is a pain in the asth like I never had before with a motherboard.

Common PROBLEMS With Gigabyte Drivers
    Driver is missing or corrupt
    Driver is out-of-date
    Previous attempt to update driver failed
    The current driver is the incorrect driver for the device
    The device is damaged and needs to be replaced or repaired (drivers cannot fix hardware issues)
Installing the most current and accurate driver will typically fix most problems that are experienced while operating Windows hardware devices. The original driver for any given hardware device often has been updated many times by the manufacturer to fix bugs and improve efficiency. Many users experience problems with older Windows devices for this reason.
There are many challenges when updating drivers. Finding the correct driver for all the devices in your Windows computer can be a hassle and installation can sometimes be tedious at best. You simply want your hardware to work and with the best performance!

Are you using a 32 bit or 64 bit system? 32 bit systems are limited on how much storage space it can support.

I have a old pc (5 years) with
-Memory (1*8gb)
-Intel core i5
-HP Pavilion
-Since I cannot boot my pc, the rest of details are absent
Please help!first thing to try is to remove the processor, memory and video card (if it has one) and clean their contacts and the SLOT they came from, put them back and see if that helps.
the processor will probably need new thermal PASTE - but for this test to just to get the PC to boot, you'll be fine.

has the PC been in use and this PROBLEM has suddenly happened?

during bootup, can you get into the BIOS?  (usual keys are DEL, Esc or F2, but since you have no display, this is probably NO)
is the PC getting power, that is, are LED's flashing, hard drives spinning and fans whirring when you start it?5 BEEPS on a HP is normally a memory fault. The first thing I would do is with the power turned off at the wall, but still plugged in. Ground yourself to the case of the computer and then remove and insert the memory 3 or 4 times. This should clean the contacts or improve the contact between the socket and memory.

If the pavilion is a laptop then make sure you remove the main battery and disconnect the laptop from the power supply before removing and inserting the memory. Ground yourself before touching the memory.

If after doing this the computer still doesn't boot you may need to try the other memory slot or different memory.I believe 5 beeps indicates a BIOS issue. Can you boot into Safe Mode with Networking? If so try going to the manufacturer of your computer or motherboard and see if there's a bios update available.The beep codes do NOT indicate a bios issue and do NOT flash your bios without a reason to do so.

The beep codes are specific to the bios in your system. 5 beeps on your system probably indicates a major hardware failure - please see: https://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c02222922

Hdtune trial pro TEST passed.
prime95 for 1-2h passed, no anything bad happened.
memtest86 on 16gb ram 6 full passes no errors.
fumark STRESS about 1h nothing.

I have this in watchdog, but im not sure of time, is it same when freeze or not because it shows utc wrong, and error logs are screwed with utc too in event log.
Anyway here they are and what they say...


Windows 8 Kernel Version 10586 MP (4 procs) Free x64 Product: WinNt, suite: TerminalServer SingleUserTS Built by: 10586.338.amd64fre.th2_release.160517-1918 Machine Name: Kernel base = 0xfffff802`78c7a000 PsLoadedModuleList = 0xfffff802`78f58cf0 Debug session time: Sat Dec 23 07:33:55.502 2017 (UTC - 5:00) System Uptime: 1 days 1:15:18.540 ******************************************************************************* *                                                                             * *                        Bugcheck Analysis                                    * *                                                                             * ******************************************************************************* VIDEO_ENGINE_TIMEOUT_DETECTED (141) One of the the display engines failed to respond in timely fashion. (This code can never be USED for REAL bugcheck). Arguments: Arg1: ffffe0019f52e4c0, Optional pointer to internal TDR recovery context (TDR_RECOVERY_CONTEXT). Arg2: fffff8016db27e80, The pointer into responsible device driver module (e.g owner tag). Arg3: 0000000000000000, The secondary driver specific bucketing key. Arg4: 0000000000000000, Optional internal context dependent data. Debugging Details: ------------------ TRIAGER: Could not open triage file : e:\dump_analysis\program\triage\modclass.ini, error 2 FAULTING_IP: nvlddmkm+167e80 fffff801`6db27e80 ??              DEFAULT_BUCKET_ID:  GRAPHICS_DRIVER_ENGINE_TIMEOUT TAG_NOT_DEFINED_202b:  *** Unknown TAG in analysis list 202b BUGCHECK_STR:  0x141 PROCESS_NAME:  System CURRENT_IRQL:  0 STACK_TEXT: ffffd000`2c74a450 fffff801`6b4a686c : ffffe001`9f52e4c0 ffffd000`2c74a5b9 00000000`00000020 00000000`00000000 : watchdog!WdDbgReportRecreate+0x104 ffffd000`2c74a4a0 fffff801`6b4a531a : ffffc002`00000000 ffffc002`0021a6f0 00000000`00000010 00000000`00000000 : dxgkrnl!TdrUpdateDbgReport+0xec ffffd000`2c74a4f0 fffff801`6cbe14f9 : ffffe001`94fc4058 ffffe001`94fc4058 ffffe001`9f52e4c0 ffffe001`94fc4000 : dxgkrnl!TdrCollectDbgInfoStage1+0x26a ffffd000`2c74a620 fffff801`6cc4a9d8 : ffffe001`94fc4000 00000000`00000000 00000000`00000001 ffffe001`94fc4001 : dxgmms2!VidSchiResetEngine+0x265 ffffd000`2c74a900 fffff801`6cbfa7d0 : ffffe001`945a9000 00000000`00000000 00000000`00000000 ffffe001`94fc4000 : dxgmms2!VidSchiResetEngines+0x84 ffffd000`2c74a940 fffff801`6cbfa576 : 00000000`00000002 00000000`0058c8eb 00000000`003701c9 2d7c3492`626c1b00 : dxgmms2!VidSchiCheckHwProgress+0x1c0 ffffd000`2c74a9b0 fffff801`6cbcb324 : 00000000`00000000 00000000`00000000 00000000`c0000000 2d7bf571`de308880 : dxgmms2!VidSchiWaitForSchedulerEvents+0x2e6 ffffd000`2c74aa80 fffff801`6cc2a75d : ffffe001`94ff0910 ffffd000`2c74abd0 ffffe001`94ff0900 ffffe001`945a9000 : dxgmms2!VidSchiScheduleCommandToRun+0x5a4 ffffd000`2c74ab80 fffff801`6cc2a720 : ffffe001`945a9500 ffffe001`945a9000 00000000`00000080 ffffe001`916a9000 : dxgmms2!VidSchiRun_PriorityTable+0x2d ffffd000`2c74abd0 fffff802`78d67b75 : 00000005`b59bbfff fffff802`78dc180f c6ce8b48`00010023 00000000`02af003a : dxgmms2!VidSchiWorkerThread+0x80 ffffd000`2c74ac10 fffff802`78dc1946 : ffffd000`2a260180 ffffe001`94e29840 fffff802`78d67b34 41f0348b`4c00000e : nt!PspSystemThreadStartup+0x41 ffffd000`2c74ac60 00000000`00000000 : ffffd000`2c74b000 ffffd000`2c745000 00000000`00000000 00000000`00000000 : nt!KiStartSystemThread+0x16 STACK_COMMAND:  .bugcheck ; kb FOLLOWUP_IP: nvlddmkm+167e80 fffff801`6db27e80 ??              SYMBOL_NAME:  nvlddmkm+167e80 FOLLOWUP_NAME:  MachineOwner MODULE_NAME: nvlddmkm IMAGE_NAME:  nvlddmkm.sys DEBUG_FLR_IMAGE_TIMESTAMP:  554fa593 FAILURE_BUCKET_ID:  X64_0x141_IMAGE_nvlddmkm.sys BUCKET_ID:  X64_0x141_IMAGE_nvlddmkm.sys Followup: MachineOwner --------- Windows 8 Kernel Version 10586 MP (4 procs) Free x64 Product: WinNt, suite: TerminalServer SingleUserTS Built by: 10586.338.amd64fre.th2_release.160517-1918 Machine Name: Kernel base = 0xfffff802`5f411000 PsLoadedModuleList = 0xfffff802`5f6efcf0 Debug session time: Wed Dec 20 01:05:57.086 2017 (UTC - 5:00) System Uptime: 7 days 13:07:26.302 ******************************************************************************* *                                                                             * *                        Bugcheck Analysis                                    * *                                                                             * ******************************************************************************* VIDEO_TDR_TIMEOUT_DETECTED (117) The display driver failed to respond in timely fashion. (This code can never be used for real bugcheck). Arguments: Arg1: ffffe001c25cc4c0, Optional pointer to internal TDR recovery context (TDR_RECOVERY_CONTEXT). Arg2: fffff800054f7e80, The pointer into responsible device driver module (e.g owner tag). Arg3: 0000000000000000, The secondary driver specific bucketing key. Arg4: 0000000000001760, Optional internal context dependent data. Debugging Details: ------------------ TRIAGER: Could not open triage file : e:\dump_analysis\program\triage\modclass.ini, error 2 FAULTING_IP: nvlddmkm+167e80 fffff800`054f7e80 ??              DEFAULT_BUCKET_ID:  GRAPHICS_DRIVER_TDR_TIMEOUT TAG_NOT_DEFINED_202b:  *** Unknown TAG in analysis list 202b CUSTOMER_CRASH_COUNT:  2 BUGCHECK_STR:  0x117 PROCESS_NAME:  System CURRENT_IRQL:  0 STACK_TEXT: ffffd000`9caf0a00 fffff800`0340686c : ffffe001`c25cc4c0 00000000`80000000 ffffe001`c25cc4c0 ffffe001`c07da870 : watchdog!WdDbgReportRecreate+0x104 ffffd000`9caf0a50 fffff800`03405dcf : ffffc001`00000000 ffffc001`8d5c60d0 ffffe001`c25cc4c0 ffffe001`bdbfc408 : dxgkrnl!TdrUpdateDbgReport+0xec ffffd000`9caf0aa0 fffff800`033f28c5 : ffffc001`a961c5e1 ffffe001`bdbfc3a0 ffffe001`bdbfc3a0 ffffe001`bdbfc408 : dxgkrnl!TdrCollectDbgInfoStage2+0x1df ffffd000`9caf0ad0 fffff800`034064d5 : 00000000`00000100 00000000`00000000 ffff743d`00000000 ffffe001`baec11d0 : dxgkrnl!DXGADAPTER::Reset+0x21d ffffd000`9caf0b20 fffff800`0340662b : 00000000`00000200 fffff802`5f7a4340 ffffe001`ba84d1e0 fffff800`02b30880 : dxgkrnl!TdrResetFromTimeout+0x15 ffffd000`9caf0b50 fffff802`5f453c59 : ffffe001`bea42440 fffff800`034065d0 ffffe001`c2564290 ffffe001`59706e50 : dxgkrnl!TdrResetFromTimeoutWorkItem+0x5b ffffd000`9caf0b80 fffff802`5f4feb75 : 00000000`00000000 00000000`00000080 ffffe001`ba8a8040 ffffe001`bea42440 : nt!ExpWorkerThread+0xe9 ffffd000`9caf0c10 fffff802`5f558946 : ffffd000`4ad88180 ffffe001`bea42440 fffff802`5f4feb34 00000000`00000000 : nt!PspSystemThreadStartup+0x41 ffffd000`9caf0c60 00000000`00000000 : ffffd000`9caf1000 ffffd000`9caeb000 00000000`00000000 00000000`00000000 : nt!KiStartSystemThread+0x16 STACK_COMMAND:  .bugcheck ; kb FOLLOWUP_IP: nvlddmkm+167e80 fffff800`054f7e80 ??              SYMBOL_NAME:  nvlddmkm+167e80 FOLLOWUP_NAME:  MachineOwner MODULE_NAME: nvlddmkm IMAGE_NAME:  nvlddmkm.sys DEBUG_FLR_IMAGE_TIMESTAMP:  554fa593 FAILURE_BUCKET_ID:  X64_0x117_IMAGE_nvlddmkm.sys BUCKET_ID:  X64_0x117_IMAGE_nvlddmkm.sys Followup: MachineOwner ---------
Windows 8 Kernel Version 10586 MP (4 procs) Free x64 Product: WinNt, suite: TerminalServer SingleUserTS Built by: 10586.338.amd64fre.th2_release.160517-1918 Machine Name: Kernel base = 0xfffff802`5f411000 PsLoadedModuleList = 0xfffff802`5f6efcf0 Debug session time: Wed Dec 20 01:05:50.094 2017 (UTC - 5:00) System Uptime: 7 days 13:07:19.310 ******************************************************************************* *                                                                             * *                        Bugcheck Analysis                                    * *                                                                             * ******************************************************************************* VIDEO_TDR_TIMEOUT_DETECTED (117) The display driver failed to respond in timely fashion. (This code can never be used for real bugcheck). Arguments: Arg1: ffffe001c25cc4c0, Optional pointer to internal TDR recovery context (TDR_RECOVERY_CONTEXT). Arg2: fffff800054f7e80, The pointer into responsible device driver module (e.g owner tag). Arg3: 0000000000000000, The secondary driver specific bucketing key. Arg4: 00000000000027c8, Optional internal context dependent data. Debugging Details: ------------------ TRIAGER: Could not open triage file : e:\dump_analysis\program\triage\modclass.ini, error 2 FAULTING_IP: nvlddmkm+167e80 fffff800`054f7e80 ??              DEFAULT_BUCKET_ID:  GRAPHICS_DRIVER_TDR_TIMEOUT TAG_NOT_DEFINED_202b:  *** Unknown TAG in analysis list 202b CUSTOMER_CRASH_COUNT:  1 BUGCHECK_STR:  0x117 PROCESS_NAME:  System CURRENT_IRQL:  0 STACK_TEXT: ffffd000`5133fa00 fffff800`0340686c : ffffe001`c25cc4c0 00000000`80000000 ffffe001`c25cc4c0 ffffe001`bf5d7830 : watchdog!WdDbgReportRecreate+0x104 ffffd000`5133fa50 fffff800`03405dcf : ffffc001`00000000 ffffc001`8a9aa610 ffffe001`c25cc4c0 ffffe001`bdbfc408 : dxgkrnl!TdrUpdateDbgReport+0xec ffffd000`5133faa0 fffff800`033f28c5 : ffffc001`a961c56c ffffe001`bdbfc3a0 ffffe001`bdbfc3a0 ffffe001`bdbfc408 : dxgkrnl!TdrCollectDbgInfoStage2+0x1df ffffd000`5133fad0 fffff800`034064d5 : ffffe001`be8a01b0 00000000`00000000 ffff743d`00000000 fffff802`5f4df664 : dxgkrnl!DXGADAPTER::Reset+0x21d ffffd000`5133fb20 fffff800`0340662b : 00000000`00000300 fffff802`5f7a4340 ffffe001`ba84d1e0 fffff800`02b30880 : dxgkrnl!TdrResetFromTimeout+0x15 ffffd000`5133fb50 fffff802`5f453c59 : ffffe001`c4c313c0 fffff800`034065d0 ffffe001`bb694b40 fffff802`5f7a4340 : dxgkrnl!TdrResetFromTimeoutWorkItem+0x5b ffffd000`5133fb80 fffff802`5f4feb75 : 03e0c03d`3b0303a0 00000000`00000080 ffffe001`ba8a8040 ffffe001`c4c313c0 : nt!ExpWorkerThread+0xe9 ffffd000`5133fc10 fffff802`5f558946 : ffffd000`4ae80180 ffffe001`c4c313c0 fffff802`5f4feb34 30d1d621`130cc962 : nt!PspSystemThreadStartup+0x41 ffffd000`5133fc60 00000000`00000000 : ffffd000`51340000 ffffd000`5133a000 00000000`00000000 00000000`00000000 : nt!KiStartSystemThread+0x16 STACK_COMMAND:  .bugcheck ; kb FOLLOWUP_IP: nvlddmkm+167e80 fffff800`054f7e80 ??              SYMBOL_NAME:  nvlddmkm+167e80 FOLLOWUP_NAME:  MachineOwner MODULE_NAME: nvlddmkm IMAGE_NAME:  nvlddmkm.sys DEBUG_FLR_IMAGE_TIMESTAMP:  554fa593 FAILURE_BUCKET_ID:  X64_0x117_IMAGE_nvlddmkm.sys BUCKET_ID:  X64_0x117_IMAGE_nvlddmkm.sys Followup: MachineOwner ---------

Computer Specs:
z270f ASUS MOBO
Intel core i5 7600k
Asus ROG GTX 1070 OC
Samsung 850 evo 250gb
WD Blue 1tb
NZXT Kraken x62
NZXT Hue +

Hi, I am currently having random blue screens of death on my computer reporting WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR every 1 - 20 mins. When BOOTING in safe mode with networking there have been no crashes as of yet. It is also worth noting sometimes when booting after restart there is just hanging logo on windows boot (without loading gif)
Blue Screen Details: https://gyazo.com/8cc11de9fc59732afbd7cca035b3fccf

What I have currently tried:
Complete reinstall of windows
Taking out HDD
Underclocking
Testing Temps - in limits
Uninstalling Antivirus (Norton 360)
Uninstalling GPU, Sound, Chipset Drivers replacing with older & newer versions
Setting BIOS to defaults

None have currently worked

memory dump: https://pastebin.com/3yxR3Gqz

Any help would be appreciated




Take a look at this https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_vista-update/blue-screen-stop-0x00000124-0x00000000-0x89bed028/0df6c858-d0a5-4f4d-8e13-88191b23bd1e?auth=1I am afraid that link did not help me. It would be helpful if you would take a look at the dmp file which is in the initial post.

Also I have noticed a few other things.
I remember now I got the BSOD's after doing a BIOS reset earlier that day.
The BSOD's seem to be OCCURRING when doing lightweight computing (watching youtube, typing word docs ect), not gaming

I have replaced hdd, ssd & TAKEN out GPU and done a BIOS update, no changes. Quote from: Assassinguy2623 on December 27, 2017, 12:11:47 PM

...
I have replaced hdd, ssd & taken out GPU and done a BIOS update, no changes.

Even here, though, the Core i7-7700K required just 1.22V to hit 4.8GHz, which is actually below its load stock voltage reported in CPU-Z. By comparison, our in-house Core i7-6700K usually needed at least 1.3V, sometimes much more to get to 4.8GHz. With 1.36V, the Core i7-7700K was able to reach a healthy 5GHz with ease and temperatures were actually reasonable too - easily tameable with a decent air cooler.

i get temps around 60c with 4c4t and 1.35v on air so it's not limiting the overclock significantly

i wouldn't run adaptive either, it can (or at least could) do crazy things with voltages in certain conditions - at least if you have it set, make sure not to run avx synthetics; some people reported huge voltage spikes and even overnight dead CPU's when priming on adaptive.
Edited by Cyro999 - 10/11/17 at 11:01pm

Intel Corporation
Correct Answer by Intel Corporation on 30-Jan-2017 15:16
Hello:

I just wanted to let you know that I just received the results from our investigation about this matter, and the thing is that the information in regard to the voltages for overclocking the processors is not available, there is no documentation or archives with the information you requested.

Hi, I have recently been having PROBLEMS with my newish 3 month gaming rig,
the pc shuts down as if power has been cut to it, and turns back on 2-3 seconds later.

The one thing I have tried is turning off system restart on fatal error and that has not worked.

System Specs
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Assassinguy2623/saved/vjgqkLthis POST is resolved due to max overclockingerased post.... overclock caused I guess
nope, im afraid overclocking is not the issue here. I underclocked and I am still having the same issueIf covered by warranty then I'd exercise the warranty ability to get a replacement VS doing something that could void warranty.It seems as the parts are from different suppliers you will need to  diagnose the exact component/s so they can be RETURNED .

Are you sure the power supply stops like does the power light go out?

If the computer is just resetting , when it does fault press delete to enter the bios and check the voltages and temps. is anything out of the ordinary?

Is there any way you can get the computer to always do this . I mean like say " every TIME I plug my cellphone in to the front usb port it restarts."

Also check windows logs at the time to see if there is anything logged.Issue resolved: mobo wasn't plugged in properly xDCurious what was improperly plugged and how?  The 24 pin plug was half in - only 12 pins where connected

I have a 2 year old laptop with Intel Atom processor 32bit and 2gb ram and it runs heavy software like Photoshop, Visual Studio and so on and it also runs Call of duty 4 and it has no Graphics card !!


And my PC that is 64bit Intel i5 4gb ram 1000Tb HDD without a graphics card BRAND new, and Call of duty is slow Photoshop is slow  I mean how can a laptop be faster than a PC after that I installed a 8gb ram so I had 12gb ram now and everything works except from games they still aren't good

my pc is Lenovo IdeaCentre S10
my laptop is Quest Slimbook the cheapest laptop out there

can someone explain to what may be the cause and how is this possible ?Do you have the proper driver for the GPU? If your not running the proper driver and only the Windows generic driver your system would act very sluggish with games or not run games at all etc. I'd verify you have the latest driver for the GPU. Additionally please try to avoid getting the censorship flag to your posts. Everyone here is willing to help without the unnecessary language, so please try to keep posts clean.You don't say what model Lenovo IdeaCentre S10 is the 4 DIGIT model NUMBER would give a lot clearer specs.

One area that is faster on the laptop is loading programs and data. The laptop having a small electronic drive integrated into the motherboard which is about 4 times faster than the 1TB in the Lenovo.

Lenovo's have  utilities that start and remain in MEMORY when windows STARTS most of these are not necessary or can be run when required.

I would expect the graphics performance to be the same as both are onboard.

Also the laptop Atom processor is no slug.

Windows 10 on the Laptop is likely to be really clean of start up programs.

You can check the disk speed with Benchme from reclaimme http://www.benchbench.com/

Also it may be possible depending on the Lenovo model to put a 1050 graphics card in, 1 of the 1/2 height models probable.

And maybe an ssd to get the same disk performance as the laptop.


 

Hi everyone.
About 3 days ago, my notebook with win10x64 / lenovo ideapad z580 stopped to work. It was really slowly so I restarted that and then there was just 0xc00000f, 0xc000225 and winload.efi error info on blue screen.
I tried to save some data via ubuntu liveCD but could not ACCESS partition where I have win system and some sw [NTFS inconsistent, input/output error and so on...] I could not mount into that part at all. I found out that there is something over 52 bad sectors and 54° C / 129° F.
I know that I should just buy new one / my will is to do so. But I cannot do that in shorter time than +- in month.
I was just interested, If I will reinstal win, will it find bad sectors and ignore them during proccess? If no, how can I find them?
I made new USB win10 boot device and wanted to run chkdsk but it denied access to me. Actually anything about copying healthy boot/files, fixing etc. was not successful...
Even if the time of function would be really short, I cannot chose different option now.
Thank you for reply and sorry for language.
I am desperate, thank you for advice. anz different advice how to solve this situation is welcome. Best solution is to install a new hard drive and install the OS to a clean healthy hard drive.

Most Hard Drives do have extra sectors used to replace damaged sectors, but a hard drive with a sector loss could result in  important data loss or system crash when you NEED it the most. That hard drive should not be trusted.

Depending on how bad the problem is, you might be able to install Windows clean to it again, and it will skip over use of those bad sectors, but a hard drive with a bad sector count greater than 0 is considered damaged and not to be trusted to be reliable.

However I have a first generation SATA drive MANUFACTURED in 2004 a 164.7GB drive that has bad sectors and I have used it for the last 7 years for video editing and it still works and the bad sector count hasn't gotten any worse and it continues to run without any problems. BUT... This drive is not to be trusted with storage with any important data!

The other day, my G933's mic stopped working. Windows recognizes the device, but it can't transmit any sounds (on the bar in the recording tab), Skype, Discord, or anything. I've tried using another USB headset and had the same problem. Then I tried an old G230 with 3.5mm cables and the mic worked. However, the person I'm talking to on Skype says my mic KEEPS cutting out and they can hear sounds coming from my headset. (Might be a whole other problem. It seems like it'll mute every TIME I'm playing something LOUD on my computer.)

I built this computer about 2 months ago. Using an Asus Maximus 9 Hero. I've tried updating the audio driver and plugging in the headset onto other USB ports.

If anybody has any suggestions, I will greatly appreciate it.Can you un check  "allow applications to take exclusive control of this device"
In control panel ,hardware and sound, manage audio device, recording, mic rear/front panel, advanced, and un check
'allow applications to take exclusive control of this device' then  reset computer. See if that helps.

Also un related to the usb headset  the old G230 there is a few people having driver problems with Windows 10 and and the realtek Sound on your motherboard. Quote from: redspaceship on November 27, 2017, 08:12:50 PM

The other day, my G933's mic stopped working.
...

I built this computer about 2 months ago. Using an Asus Maximus 9 Hero  ...

I have windows 7 32 bit install in my pc
with Intel core 2 duo processor E7500 2.94GHz
2048 MB DDR3 ram
320GB 3G Hard drive
Intel GMA X4500 Graphics
and PSU=180W
my budget is AROUND 200 dollars(14000 Rupees) i want to upgrade my pc for play SMALL games like CRYSIS 2,assassins creed 3 i already play these games but these games run on my pc in low configuration. Can i install any graphic card in my pc
all specification about my motherboard http://www.findlaptopdriver.com/specs-eton-1-0-foxconn/
PLEASE SUGGEST ME TO THE BEST OF YOUR KNOWLEDGEOK, first things first, you should upgrade to windows 7 64 bit. Your processor can take it.
Pros about your PC: Processor
Cons: You are using a hard drive not an SSD
Low PSU
No graphics card
2 GB of ram.

Ok you should go to 64 bit OS because 32 bit can only map out 4 GB of ram. You are going to need to upgrade your nam to at least 8 gb for that, and you will need a better graphics card. Loook for a graphics card with about 2 gb of Vram. Then you might want a better PSU. Also you might want to get a SSD because it is alot faster than a hard drive. but that is optinal. Hope you FIND what you want. He's not gonna do that for 200 Bucks...

Hello, does anybody know if it is possible to find a large selection of gaming-grade PC's anywhere in Ukraine? I haven't been able to find much in google, and the PC's that are recommended on different sites on the internet are not to be found anywhere. I was also considering building my own PC if it would be cheaper, so am also asking if it is possible to find good computer-parts around the same area.

 Thank's for taking the TIME to read this, and perhaps answer.Not familiar with Ukraine ... but Googling this might help.

https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=hWIIWvOuMsWHmQG8x5PwAQ&q=computer+parts+in+ukraine&oq=computer+parts+in+ukraine&gs_l=psy-ab.3..0i22i30k1.179.15730.0.16173.72.49.18.0.0.0.331.5987.1j30j5j2.39.0....0...1.1.64.psy-ab..17.54.5860.0..0j0i131k1.109.WdHJXo4vOP8

If your willing to take a risk in failure you can build your own. If you just want something out of the box working you can buy a prebuilt computer which may have a better warranty, but might come at a premium prebuilt vs building your own. Myself I have 30 years experience messing with computer electronics and so I rarely buy computers prebuilt that are desktop computers. Laptops I buy a laptop once every 3 or 4 years and buy one that is low cost and plenty of processing power for what i need, but i dont go out and buy a Core i7 for example for laptop, I will buy a Core i3 and in 3 or 4 years buy another one low cost in which after 3 or 4 years the laptop had its KEYS pretty heavily WORN and a better low cost laptop is available. Mainly one with a better GPU. If I didnt game, I could use a laptop for about 10 years probably, but the games demand GPU processing power and so instead of buying a high end laptop I prefer buying CHEAP using it heavily and then buying another cheap laptop with better newer lower end CPU or APU which is plenty for the games, but only plan on using for 3 or 4 years before getting another.  With desktop computers its been 13 years since I bought a desktop computer. I have since built many buying parts or taking older systems and yanking the motherboards and installing newer motherboards and reusing case, power supply, and SATA drives to cut costs in newer faster desktop builds. With SSD's very affordable I also pair a smaller cheap SSD with a much larger HDD and this gives me speed and STORAGE capacity and makes for low cost builds.

I recently bought an HDMI cable to connect my laptop to my computer. The cable is a Kabel DIREKT 2m HDMI Cable (1080p 4K 3D High SPEED with Ethernet ARC). My laptop is an ASUS K53E. The monitor is an ASUS VS247HR 23.6 Zoll Widescreen Full HD LED Monitor (1920x1080, 2ms, HDMI, VGA, DVI-D).
When I’m streaming, there are fine hairline streaks of red LINES that appear on the dark colours, mostly black. They seem to streak across the screen i.e., they are not permanent lines.
Can anyone identify the problem?
Is it:
1.   The cable is not suitable?
2.   The monitor is faulty? (It is as new as the cable: 5 days approx).
When I use a VGA cable this ISSUE doesn’t occur.
If an HDMI cable is not suited to streaming, should I replace it with a DVI-D or keep using the VGA cable.

Cheapo Chinese cable...replace it.

Hi everyone. I have a Dell Inspiron 1545 64 bit with Windows 7 Home PREMIUM SERVICE pack 1.
SUDDENLY my sound has got disabled for no reason. I go to 'control panel' then when i click on 'sounds' nothing happens at all. I have not had any Windows updates for about a year now so it's not that. I have no audio icon on the taskbar, i have also been to device manager and re-installed the sound which is 'idt high definition audio codec'.
On the services list i have no Windows Audio which is very weird.
I have an anti-virus installed and a junk cleaner, they were installed way way before this happened. It's almost like my computer is saying i have no audio device installed. I will be very surprised if i can get this fixed because i have tried everything.
I did some sound checks, you know when you start the computer and press F12, WELL i got 1 hardrive error Error code: 2000-0146, after that finished it asked me if i want to check any specific folders and i checked the sound and it played it from left and right speakers and also did a mic recording.where you getting the drivers from ? ?sorry i don't understand how to find that out

Hello everybody! I have recently have noticed that my laptop has been very slow, so I tried fixing it. Here are the things I have tried to do:

-Uninstalling unneeded programs
-Deleting everything from %temp%
-Running a registry cleaner
-Deleting all useless files
-Running an Antivirus and a Anti-Malware program
-Running CCleaner
-Fragmentating the 500GB HDD

The laptop itself is running the newest 64 bit Windows 10 version and has 4GB of RAM, a GTX 820M graphics card and has a i5-5200u processor. I have tried doing anything in my knowlage to make my laptop RUN faster. Im sure you could figure a way out what can I do besides reinstalling Windows. Thank you for your time.With the exception of running the scans, nothing you did would effect system performance. Boot to safe mode. Does the system run fairly smoothly in safe mode? If so, we'll eliminate some of the processes / apps you have STARTING with your system.

Did you install Win 10 drivers for it ? ?

Stay away from registry cleaners...I think you need more memory. 4 gigs is not really enough to begin with. I don't know how long you had your PC but the software gets more sophisticated thus needing more mems. You can safely ignore the above advice...And why do you say that?If this is a new issue, it is not related to ram.More memory usually help speed it up by using the hard drive as virtual memory less as possible.You are more than welcome to offer advice here...however flakey advice isn't tolerated.

As Allan stated the issue is new...which means it was fine prior to that with 4G of RAM.So my advice is flakey.

Nice.

When somebody comes in with a flat tire, you don't suggest fixing it by replacing their oil, even if replacing oil is a good practice. Similarly, while upgrading RAM to INCREASE performance is on it's own good advice, in the context of a system that was running fine with it's existing HARDWARE, it would at best mask a software issue, making advice to do so unreliable.I modified your EXTREMELY rude reply...

You now have 1 chance left for stikin around here...(Lonestar = REPORTED)

HI folks - i m new here and looking for help. I have about a 6 YEAR old HP520  (all in one desktop) ,  Intel I5 chip - been a great machine for my family.  About 6 months ago, i started to notice a noise that sounded like the fan,  and a few months after that,, it started to run slowly,,  too slowly to complete even common tasks effectively ( 30 seconds to open email). So, I installed CoreTemp, small software to monitor the temp of the procesors and learned they were all redlined after a short period of time.   So, i replaced the fan - in that process saw a lot of dust on the grill at the end of the duct that directs air over what looks like a big copper tube which ends directly over the processor.  I guess, being copper it conducts heat about 12 inches to the fan port where it is cooled.   So, when i replaced the fan, a vacuumed all the dust out,  etc. and put it BACK togeher  full of hope...     well, it does operate at lower temperatures for a little longer with the new fan, the overheating problems came back quickly nonetheless. TO confirm the problems with slow performance are heat related, i placed a wet cloth on the copper tube to dissipate heat and monitored the performance and temp and it was was fine,,  temp stayed normal and performance was fine..  took the cloth  off ( and it was HOT) temps went to redline and performace into the tank

anyone have any idea why the overheating issues continue?  I did run the HP DIAGNOSTICS as well and all was fine   - i am not sure how indepth these tests are, but indicated all was well..

any help appreciated. I had a i5 laptop that was running to 85C and I had to replace its heatsink which was also heatpipes. Somehow some of the ALCOHOL inside the tube must have leaked out through a poor solder joint I am guessing and so it wasnt working as it should have. I replaced the thermal compound and that didnt help. Replacing the heatsink is what fixed my issue similar to yours.that makes sense to me -  i assume the heat sink is the "copper tube" intended to transfer heat to the fan housing?

thanks very muchYes ... The tubes known as heat pipes draw the heat away and here is more info on how they work: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_pipe . Any little microfracture and they fail, and fail to get rid of heat.excellent and thank you for the wiki link  -  very informative - makes sense to me after reading. i will tear the thing apart, get the correct replacement number and order...


CHEERS and have a good weekend.

Hello,
I have a HP pavilion g4 with this graphics card please tell me that speccy is showing it has 1024MB VIDEO ram and laptop has total of 2GB ram and also intel HD graphics switchable to ATI .I want to ASK that is my graphics card is sharing ram with laptop or it has fixed ram chip on it self I know intel graphics is sharing ram but what about my ATI???What exact model is yours?

... there are a bunch of models for the G4. On the bottom of laptop should show a part number usually NEAR the serial number.

I've been having trouble with my computer since last Christmas, or near there. It's been randomly shutting off since then -- earlier on, it gave a little warning by slowing down a lot before doing so. But as of late, there's no warning whatsoever. My older brother is a computer expert / professional and has replaced literally everything in the computer more than once, has reinstalled Windows more than once, onto multiple different drives (we thought the SSD he put in near Christmas could be the problem), tried multiple outlets since we thought that may be the problem and that didn't matter... And neither he nor I have any clue what the issue is. He took it over to his house to reinstall Windows yet again and it hadn't turned off once, despite being on the ENTIRE day. It also isn't overheating, we ruled that out long ago.

So, that said, does anyone have any idea what the problem could be?If a computer problem happens after a move, or is cured by a move, from room to room or to another house altogether, then often the CAUSE can be one or more components on the motherboard (RAM module, display card, other card, CPU) becoming slightly loose and the movement causes it (or them) to shake loose (or shake back again). Especially if it has had a ride in an automobile. I suggest making sure that everything that is removable is properly and securely seated. Check this with the power off and the AC power lead disconnected from the PSU. If the computer comes back to your house and works fine, you know you fixed the problem. if the computer works well at another location, but badly at your house, you may have dirty power, either at the particular outlet being used, or at the breaker board and you MIGHT have to consult an electrician.
Salmon Trout said:
Quote

if the computer works well at another location, but badly at your house, you may have dirty power, either at the particular outlet being used, or at the breaker board and you might have to consult an electrician.

has replaced literally everything in the computer

to further the ideas already stated, it sounds like it works at one place and not at yours.
so my money would be on a peripheral - like keyboard, mouse, printer, something externally connected to the PC at your house that isn't at the other house.

I had a similar incident (worked here, didn't work there) and it was eventually traced to their keyboard, replaced that, all came good.

Meanwhile he's been abducted...

Does anyone know what causes this?


[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Does this happen when using a different display to point the finger to the computer as the cause?

If it does this on another display then its likely that there is either a shared memory issue if shared memory is used for integrated GPU or the GPU itself is damaged. If problem goes away when using a different display then the display itself likely has the issue.

memtest86 can be used to test the System RAM https://www.memtest86.com/Hi Dave,
Thanks for the reply. I'm not sure what to do here.
I tried another monitor. It still happens. It's a oldish system I built myself about 10 or so years ago. The system is;

Lian Li full tower
ASUS P5E M/B
Intel Core2Duo E8500
8GB DDR2 1600 RAM
2GB AMD Radeon HD 5900 Series
Various SSDs and HHDs

I suspect it might be the graphics card but I don't know how to eliminate the possibility of it being RAM or CPU. I don't have any spares I can swap in/out to try.
The problem has been getting worse over time and is at the stage now that just to type this reply is taking ages because the screen locks up now and then with a message saying "The display driver has stopped working and has recovered" (or words to that effect).
I used Memtest years ago and forgot all about it but it would be hard to run at the moment because I only get a few minutes before the graphics crash.

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.Was the PC moved recently ? ?...if so remove ALL power and remove/re=seat the vid card and RAM stiks

Have you tried the onboard vid to eliminate the monitor as the culprit ? ? Quote from: patio on August 24, 2017, 08:02:31 PM

Was the PC moved recently ? ?...if so remove ALL power and remove/re=seat the vid card and RAM stiks

Have you tried the onboard vid to eliminate the monitor as the culprit ? ?

I just thought someone may have seen this type of problem before and knew what caused it.

Hello
         I,am new to all this.anyway i had a dell inspiron M5010 frist getting very Hot!!! and 7 beeps of death i call it lol.i fixed the beeping problem with Thermal paste.i run speedfan without my powerful fan it was 1ooc..with a good stong fan under the MEMORY cover it now 50c..i did take the cover off to get more air into it...anyway since then it boots up,working fine...i don`t have any more power led`s it boots up without pressing the power button...i,am thinking somewhere i have a SHORT?any help would be most greatful Thanks...Nigel............Since you've TAKEN the machine apart,the first THING I'd be checking is the cable that connects the buttons and LEDs to the motherboard.  Those cables are pretty EASY to knock loose from their connectors.  I'd check to see if they are connected and if they are I'd try reseating them.

I have a Polaroid tablet and a Lexmark printer. Is there anyway I can print stuff off my tablet USING my Lexmark printer? Or would I have to buy a specific printer?Short answer, yes you can. Your printer can be shared on your local network and your android device can get a nap the appropriate to look computer that's shared on local network.
Some computer manufacturers provide software to make this easier. But even without the special software it's still possible to print from a tablet to almost any printer that can be attached to a network.
Have you looked for the answer to your question by going to Google and asking that question to the Google search engine?
For example you can ask Google:
"print from my tablet to my network printer" and find some LINKS that will provide more information about how this is done. Also, on your tablet go to the Google place store. I assume your tablet is an android device and the apps on the Google place store are suitable for most current android tablets.

https://www.howtogeek.com/165778/everything-you-need-to-know-about-printing-from-your-android-phone-or-tablet/

http://www.businessnewsdaily.com/6060-how-to-print-smartphone-tablet.html

For many, the Google cloud print service is the best answer.
https://www.google.com/cloudprint/learn/#utm_campaign=en&utm_source=en-ha-ww-sk&utm_medium=ha&utm_term=+cloud%20+print
Quote

Google Cloud Print is a new technology that connects your printers to the web. Using Google Cloud Print, you can make your home and work printers available to you and anyone you choose, from the applications you use every day. Google Cloud Print works on your phone, tablet, Chromebook, PC, and any other web-connected device you WANT to print from.

I'd give this a try: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.lexmark.print&hl=en   To download it to your tablet, open Google Play Store and do a search.   User reviews on this app are not very good but I would probably still try it unless a better app can be found.

Whats the Model # on the tablet ? ?...that would be helpful...

You can email it to yourself to the PC...and print it from there...

well the story goes like this, i bought a new computer 3 years ago, gtx 660, intel i5, new screen (CTX). at the begining everthing worked perfectly FINE, but at some point things were a little bit off. i had crashes and such. i had the BEST resolution supported by this screen, but at some point it lowered to 1260X860(something like that). so i figured i just need to chaged the resolution in the settings, but i have only 2 options (this one, and 640X800), and in the past i had around 10 different options. what do i do? how can i CHANGE my resolution to what it should be? furthermore, i have another problem with this computer, whenever i turn the computer on, it shows ans starts as it should, windows sign and all, but when the computer ENTER to the desktop suddenly the screen goes black and i need to turn off and on to get it back. it happens sometimes when i open new programs or games as well. really annoying, really hope u guys can help me!Do you have another display to try system on to see if its a synchronization issue with monitor?

System Crashes however could point to issues with the system itself. Do you have a list of all parts that make this computer including motherboard and power supply make/model?

Assuming you already have updated the nVidia video card driver to be up to date for the GTX 660?

I've read through multiple troubleshooting blogs and haven't come up with an answer.  I built my PC and can't get any power at all.  Here's a link to my complete build parts - https://pcpartpicker.com/list/JXVy9W

The 6 pronged PCI-E cord goes in, then there's 2 empty slots, I have a feeling this is the PROBLEM.  I've re-built it already to make sure everything's plugged in, I just don't know what else to do.  I'm TRYING to post a picture with this but the file is too big. Here's a few pics

http://imgur.com/sLiNcOIThe photo isn't particularly clear but I'd make sure to double check the connection to your graphics CARD as WELL as the 8pin connector in the top left of your motherboard.  The PSU you have provides a pair of "6+2" PCI-E power connectors, this means you have a 6 pin connector and then another 2 pins hanging off of that.  As your video card requires an 8pin connector you should TAKE one of those connectors, put the other 2 pins onto the side of the 6pin one and connect it to the card to ensure all 8 connectors are filled.  Your PSU should then have a 8pin CPU power connector which should be able to be separated into a pair of 4pin connectors, you need to connect the full 8 pins of this to the CPU power connector in the top left of the board.

When doing this, make absolutely sure that you don't end up connecting a "6+2" PCI-E connector to the motherboard or the 8pin CPU power to the video card, the connectors are slightly different but can sometimes fit if you force them, they aren't wired the same so connecting them the wrong way around risks damaging your board and/or video card.

If this still fails, it would be ideal if you could upload several high resolution photos of the connectors in the top left of the board and on the video card.  It's also worth checking the connector from the power switch is on the correct pins as this is quite easy to get wrong.

recently my computer constantly usb connection and disconnection sound.
every time I connected to the internet and the web, it constantly EMITS sound.
Meanwhile, the mouse always is jerky.
Occasionally, the mouse is disconnected with usb port.
when I'm not connected to the internet, it does not appear? (turn off device)
before now I had never encountered this situation.
help me!  LAPTOP ? ?

SOUNDS to me that the USB port the mouse is plugged into is broken...
It can be repaired at a shop.

For the time being try the mouse on another port. If it still does this then there's a short in the mouse cable...Additionally if they have a USB HUB with a bunch of stuff connected to it, they could be borderline exceeding the power capability for the port causing it to disconnect/reconnect USBGood point...sorry! Now I will tell... 
it's desktop and can connect to the Internet using Wi-Fi modem.
I OFTEN open wifi to use for android.
thereby connecting with the usb signals appear every time I connect to the internet.
as has the background to do something that conflicts with mouse driver. (my think)
but now it do not appear ?! 
since that time now I do not have to do anything ?!
Maybe my computer has been compromised ?!
I use NORTON security. Quote

but now it do not appear ?! 
since that time now I do not have to do anything ?!

My computer is an Asus Zenbook PRO UX501JW. It has an i7 4720HQ 2.60GHz, a NVIDIA GeForce GTX 960M 2047MB, and 16.0GB of RAM Dual-Channel DDR3.

I know that using a thin notebook to play games is not the best thing to do due to overheating, but I didn't really have much choice. What happened is that my computer used to run games like Rainbow Six Siege and DotA 2 with high quality graphics at a pretty good frame rate for a notebook (60~90 FPS). After a year, I cannot run Overwatch and CSGO without frame rate drops, and Rainbow six siege will barely run at 40 FPS (at best).

I've cleaned the machine, removing all the dust and changing the thermal PASTE. I've also made a clean windows 10 install to see if I could GET a better performance, but I didn't see any EXPRESSIVE improvement on the computer at all.

One of the things that I have noticed is that I cannot hear the cooling fans when I'm playing video games (which I remember hearing before), so I decided that I would try to manually change its speed. After some research, I found out some softwares that people recommended for cooler speed control (Speedfan and MSI Afterburner), but neither allowed me to change the fan speed, nor I could find any options to do it in the BIOS.

When I'm playing a game or browsing the web without an external cooling device, the motherboard and CPU TEMPERATURE will be around 80º Celcius (176 ºF), while the graphics card will always be between 70~80 ºC (158~176 ºF) if I am playing something.

What could be the reason of this performance drop ? Could it be damaged hardware ? If so, how could I test and confirm it ?This is only a guess.
The battery.
You laptop should be able to run without the battery in place.
Turn off, wait a bit.
Remove battery, plug in AC brick, power on.
The temps should be down a bit. 

Hi,
i Have a Innolux SCREEN with a AWM 20624 ribbon CABLE and i'm TRYING to convert it so i can plug it into my raspberry PI mini computer. I'm not sure what connector/converter i should use

ThanksBest to post on the Raspberry Pi's own forum. https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/

Whenever  i starts my PC ... my moniter starts and pc also starts but moniter shows pop up saying " D-SUB POWER SAVING MODE" . now how can i start my pc .. pc sounds like working NORMALLY . Do you have another MONITOR to try on this system?

Its a monitor mode that its GOING into and message isnt from computer. CURIOUS if its monitor issue of pc issue, if able to try PC on a different monitor we then can determine if its the PC or Monitor... also do not use the same video cable between monitors, it can be a video cable failure too in which using same bad cable would give same results between 2 displays giving a false direction to go in thinking its the PC when its the video cable.Agree - the message you see means the display is not receiving a signal from the display adapter. It is either bad cables, a bad connection, or a bad display adapter.

The hard drive on my desk top computer has started making very quiet little "tics" or "chirps" as it is activated to locate something.

I have just completed a complete backup (Win 7) to discs (5).

Computer is Systemax SYX, over 5 years old.

Think about new hard drive? Think about whole new computer?

Suggestions please.This is dictation.
Here are some quick suggestions that might be of some help to you. Is more likely that one of the fans inside your computer could start to make noise before the hard drive fails. Hard drive manufacturers a very conscious set up noises from their drives and they make every effort possible. Use the acoustic noise level of their hard drives. Cancer and much less costly to replace then the hard drive, so you should consider first the possibility of an only being a fan that is starting to wear. But even a fan that has worn bearings can still last a long time if you're willing to accept the noise level.
Another consideration is the BUILDUP of dust bunnies. That term is used to refer to the accumulations of dust that sometimes can make noise or otherwise interfere with the cooling system in your computer. Dust is one of the things that contributes to the wear and tear on the fans. Your computer probably has three different fans. One on the CPU itself, another on the power supply and the third is for the entire chassis. You did say your computer was a desktop.
Now about the hard drive. You may have to open the case of your desktop and examine it while it is running. Of course, you need to be very careful about running the computer with the cover off. There is a danger dropping something into the computer and it would do a lot of damage. What you want to do is try to identify the source of the noise. I'm guessing it's going to be FOUND with one of the fans and not the hard drive. However, if it really is the hard drive, then you need to make a backup of your entire system as soon as possible. A backup hard drive unit is only a fraction of the cost of what you paid for your computer when new. And having a backup can save you a loss of time trying to recover information that could be lost. In fact, hard drive for coverage is not as easy as you think it should be. In some cases a hard drive failure can be CATASTROPHIC with practically no warning.
Sorry if that sounds frightening, but from my own experience with hard drives I've learned that you have to have a backup plan. You must have a backup of your important personal material as well is having some way of restoring the operating system to its normal state.
So that is the best I can do for your at this moment. Bear in mind I have to do this with voice-recognition software, so you might see some very STRANGE and on grammar expressions are words that the computer didn't understand. Just remember, computers are not perfect. Microphone off
End of dictation.   You can ignore the nonsense in the post above.

If your hd is "ticking" it is likely the first sign of impending failure. Be sure to back up all critical data.OK, I'm all backed up to DVD's, and I've made a decision to buy a new desktop.

Boy does that open a "can of worms".

Question: Will a desktop PC, from one of the gaming manufacturers, make a good all-a-round unit for a retired P. Eng.? 
I have no idea - you have to determine your needs and what suits you. Personally, I would never buy a computer from anyone other than a "name" manufacturer (ie, Dell, HP, etc). Quote

Question: Will a desktop PC, from one of the gaming manufacturers, make a good all-a-round unit for a retired P. Eng.?

I CURRENTLY video editing on a 2015 4th gen 3.1 Ghz dual core i7 13" laptop with 16GB of ram and a 512GB SSD with no dedicated graphics it takes way too long to export videos...  I need it to take less than 12 hours as it currently takes almost 48 hours to render videos that are over 30 min long.... i'm in the market for a new laptop for video editing... my internet is also a bottleneck for uploading my videos to youtube but that I can't control since I already have the fastest internet in my area with faster internet being over 1 hour drive south of me... too far for me to drive to

new computer must meet all requirements.... it must be 14" or smaller (NOT bigger!), must have a quad core cpu (no dual core cpu with 2 hyperthredded cores.... must be true quad core!), and must have dedicated graphics built in (it can NOT have integrated with SUPPORT for eGPU)

the only computer I can THINK of at the moment is the new alianware 13 with i7-7700hq 1TB SSD, 32GB of ram and nvidea gtx 1060 but I know there are more computers out there which meet all my requirements as I don't know if that is the best computer for my needs... also I would like to consider used machines as the newest computers might not be the best option for my need Quote

I currently video editing on a 2015 4th gen 3.1 Ghz dual core i7 13" laptop with 16GB of ram and a 512GB SSD with no dedicated graphics it takes way too long to export videos...  I need it to take less than 12 hours as it currently takes almost 48 hours to render videos that are over 30 min long....

Hello,
i GOT a problem in Dropping in FPS during RECORDING with OBS.
during playing Games specially " League of legends with HIGH details "
Here is my PC specs\

http://imgur.com/58WEvkk
http://imgur.com/scLAxCh
http://imgur.com/fyOknOz
http://imgur.com/5piwLSo
http://imgur.com/AGgbDyB
http://imgur.com/5fFPGyS

Now what have i change to FIX that DROP of FPS !

 
You should just list your specs instead of links to 6 screencaps...

Just sayin.So sorry my friend, didn't know that !So Any Answer or help here !

Just experienced wierd PROBLEM. Can't explain details except that yesterday evening my sound was working perfectly. I use ALC1150 codec from Asrock z97 extreme 4 with dts NEO. This evening when i got back from work there is no sound at all.

How is this possible ?
Any suggestions?Step 1 - check to see if sound is muted (don't laugh, 8 out of 10 times that's the problem). And make sure volume is at an audible level.

Step 2 - look in DEVICE MANAGER - any yellow or red symbols?Step #3...make sure the speakers didn't come unplugged....Step #4 - Are speakers powered on and volume knob raised. As well as check cord from computer to speakers and make sure a CAT didnt bite through it etc if you own a cat.... *Yes this has happened.  I've solved the issue simply by reinstalling the drivers because i think some windows updates were installed during the night before the computer shut down. Replugged all the cables again and the optical cable from the receiver. Thanks for the recommendations.

The system I'm having issues with is a 2 year old Alienware Laptop.  The Silver Area-51 to be exact.  It has a Pentium 4 3ghz processor with a 512 Geforce video card and 1g of ram.  This system has been so awesome for so long but recently I have been having issues.  A few months back I had problems with a "click" SOUND that would happen every so often and only last for a few moments.  I wanted to guess this issue could be the HD but didn't want to except that for a few reasons: (1) I noticed no system problems; nothing ran slower and no data ever became corrupted.  (2) I didn't want to have to pay for a new HD just to find out something else needed REPLACING.  So i posted this issue on a few sites and got a lot of "of course its the HD you idiot" attitudes.  Once my refund check came in I bought a new HD and installed it.  The problem "clicks" still came AROUND ever so often.  After a few weeks these clicks went away like it has fixed itself.  Yesterday my girlfriend was playing a game on this laptop and the screen froze.  The video looked similar to how the old NES and SNES looked when those games froze up.  When I saw it I knew it had something to do with the video card.  Probably an overheating issue.  I downloaded a program called Speed Fan to run on the laptop.  It showed 4 temperatures for my system.  Two of these temperatures where steady around 20's and 30's for the HDD and Local Temp.  The two other temperatures where not nice.  The temperature for the Remote Temp reading started at 32C and stops at 53C.  The reading for ACPI called temp1 starts out at 75C after a boot!!.  This is WAY to hot for anything in a laptop.  This is where my confusion sets in and my skills need advising before I continue.  What is this ACPI?  I want to guess its the temperature reading on my Video card.  This could have been what was making the clicking sound all along (When i first heard that sound I could have SWORN it was a fan rubbing up against something; however, i opened this laptop and checked all the fans but must have not noticed a Video Card Fan).  Are there even fans for Graphics Cards in laptops?  Would the temperature for them get to 75C that quickly?  So many questions GO into this issue.  Laptops are very low on my computer skill as is many overheating issues.  Please if any of you guys could help point me in the right direction I would be more than happy.  I will provide anymore information that is needed in aiding for a solution.

Thanks,
KajiStill sounds like a cooling fan issue. I have also seen in computers where the heatsinks can become dismounted from GPU and CPU's or the thermal take dries up and cause the temperature to climb Very Fast, sometimes catastrophic with a nice crackle and smell. Does your system give off any odors when it freaks out? Is it warm to the to the touch anywhere that is an unusual amount of heat? Do you hear any fans running at all during operation? If no fans running, you might have one that is lockedup, bearings bad or some obstruction. ALSO...Some of these Fans will make Ticking noises if locked up, since they are a brushless motor induction fan that converts solid DC on a smal breadboard circuit into a Pulse Width Modulated signal to control the RPM's of the cooling fan.

I'd locate your cooling fans in the laptop, and find replacements at www.mouser.com or try to find a replacement through the MFR, which will have a markup. If you know how to match up + and -, and match up the fan size, CFM's, and type, you can save yourself probably $20 to $40 per fan by buying teh fans through Mouser.Maybe contact Alienware and see what they suggest?

Hi all

Just found this forum and it looks interesting. I just got a call from a friend who has been tinkering with his Dell Inspiron 6400 Laptop. Not sure why, but he disabled the ATI video card he has onboard ( I think to work out some compatibility issues with a game) and in trying other things, he disabled the onboard VGA drivers as well. His machin boots, he can get into Bios, but there is obviously nothing displayed on his monitor. Any suggestions.
BTW, he is running Win XP SP2 but I do not know the other specs. He is home for the holidays however he did not bring any of his original recovery etc. discs with him.

Thanks in advance, Quote

Just found this forum and it looks interesting.

BTW, love the fast response. Glad I found this place.