Explore topic-wise InterviewSolutions in .

Hello Logitech webcam users!

Since it has been over 30 days since I originally posted regarding this ISSUE, I thought I'd start a NEW thread.

It would seem Microsoft's latest Cumulative UPDATE for WINDOWS 10 Version 1607 for x64-based Systems (KB3194496) has resolved the issue I was having with my Logitech Pro 9000 and the "Launcher_Main.exe has stopped working..." error.  Quick Capture seems to be working fine now.

Those who are experiencing the same issue may want to download and apply the update as it pertains to their own Operating System.

Just thought I'd give everyone a "heads-up"...and, as always...all my best.

Ive been trying to get a clone done as my hard drive is failing and the LAST clone I did said "read failed 13-32" or some error like that at 97 percent completion.Now Im STUCK with this (image) and using the new hard drive says "computer something has to be repaired" im just wondering if its possible to return my brand new drive to normal again or what it is I should do now. Ugh I wish I just got a new computer this has been an endless situation.



[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]With the installation MEDIA and healthy hard drive installed you should be able to wipe it clean and perform clean install. Not sure how you have 6 partitions and then 8 partitions between drive 0 and drive 1 and MULTIPLES of partitions you should only have 1 of per drive. Backup your important data to an EXTERNAL hard drive and then perform clean install to new drive vs a clone.apparently the new drive went bad. Sounded like a bad HDD from the gitgo...it happens.What made it sound that way?read failed...in the 1st sentence was my clue...I see, how I managed to miss your big red "pay attention" sign.... i dont know  Ill see about a replacement on amazon.

After I finished cleaning up the thing (oh yeah, there was another small fan attached to to a plastic thing on the mobo, which resembles a heatsink.)
......
huh, the smaller fan stops working when I take a smaller "power wire" out of the mobo

Yeah, well, I've taken apart a computer apart before, put it together, it works.

[highlight]The thing is I'm sure that I have put it back together the way it was before I took it apart,[/highlight] I'm sure nothings broken.
Explain what the ESD precaution is.

 :-/

Ok, anyone who can throw me some suggestions here is greatly thanked.

A while back i began haveing issues with a BOX i had a few large sized HDD's in. Eventually i realized a few compments were going bad and haveing issues (mostly the PSU, IDE cableing, and video card.) So i tore it apart and let it be, untill i decided to rebuild off the motherboard in another case so i could have the spare machine to use the large sized HDDs again.

(Motherboard is acer model AP4400 running an 800mhz SLOT1 PIII with 3x pci and 1x AGP (4x) and 3x ram slots, cant tell you what off the top of my head since i haven't really payed much attention. The ram checked out good on memtest and so forth when i dismantled it around midyear and the slots were maxed, so i haven't bothered them. )

The Mobo came out of a desktop and went into a tower, so the form didn't exactly fit right, so i used the time honored trick of covering the entire bottom of the mobo with ducktape where the mounts didnt exactly match up, but all but two of did and it mounts quite flush.

In the config in the desktop the mobo had been running a Promise ATA 100 controller card with cable select on 4 different HDDs and the cd-r drive. I plugged into the onboard Mobo ide and was getting all kinds of errors, rageing from invaild system disk in the drive to devices on the IDE not registering at all (in the bios autodetection in paticular. It SEEMED to Be a misshot rather it would or not.) and/or the machine just not booting/shutting down during the bootstrap...i did notice the secondary ide looks like it has  a possible pin missing, so maybe thats the issue.

I put back in the IDE controller card (Promise ATA 100 card which can handle some limited raid functionality.) and it all worked fine, besides a 00x7b stop error when the 2k trys to boot to INACESSAIBLE_BOOT_DEVICE 0xf2463848 0xc0000034, then 0 strings.) This error also occurs when setup gets to "starting windows 2000". On bootup, it does display the 2k splash screen.

I came up with a few ideas and have ruled the following out:
-The cd is good
- the cables are good
- cable select made no difference, and nethier did the bios IDE auto detection.
- I have tried two seperate disk drives with the same errors.

At times in different configs the controller card bios will freeze and then just boot with its results (I cant find my notes, so i will look for them and post back when i do locate them.) but most of the time (99%) it goes through the dectection and alerts me of bootable cd just fine and asks me if i want to boot to hdd or cd just fine.
I have tried with single HDD on primary IDE and CD-R drive on secondary. I have given both jumper to single and no jumper with the same result.

I have tried about eight different HDD's at the same point now. All were pulled from various PC's of various working/non-working status and all have 2k and XP loaded, and i am 100% sure they all have ethier of those OSes in some form or another. One of the HDDs gives me a NTLDR not FOUND error, leading me to believe it is a MBR issue perhaps maybe a boot.ini? Even that one (which is running 2k) gives me the 00x7b at the starting 2k in the install, however.

The PSU and cables in the case are all new (Both IDE and molex of course.)

At this point i am down to a few options i am consdering:

1. Trying to open the file structure in another 2k/Xp install to see if i can get to them, maybe format and paration the drives there?
2. IRQ CONFLICTS? Something to look into.
3. Seeing i can get it to boot a linux live cd distro/parts be builder to read/interact with the files and see if the boot.ini and other files exist in the manner, run some disc scans?

Or maybe just the HDDs are all dead (that seems a bit to far flung.) Are the mobo is just biteing the dust at long last...

Any input is greatly thanked before hand. This is a general overview of what i could sum up. If theres a bit of addtional information that might AID someone in thier suggestion i will edit it in as needed. Once again, thanks in advance.


What if you try the install after you physically remove all add-on cards but,
the video?Same deal street.


I have managed to be able to read/write to the drives NTFS file structures just fine now on linux (i had to use backtrack because that was the only live disc i could find, others are MIA.) But it wont detect the serial mouse...i can click the button to bring up a new terminal prompt but as it stands navigateing by keys is a bit hard.

Going to see if i can fix that and then try to move the data elsewhere, any suggestions on how to do it? Might just grab a big USB external HDD.

Hi All,
I am looking for a cordless SPEAKER phone that I can connect to a old OptiPlex 755. I will use this for Skype MEETINGS only. The OS is Windows 7 64 BIT. I have seen a ton of the ones out there using blue tooth but this machine doesn't have a blue tooth interface. Something like the Meeteasy MVOICE 1000-B Wireless Bluetooth Speakerphone would work fine except it is Bluetooth. Does ANYONE have any ideas?

THANKS!

 Hi All,
I am going to try the speakerphone with a Bluetooth dongle.

Plantronics Calisto P620-M - speaker phone

Can I use this dongle setup if I already have a dongle for a wireless keyboard and mouse?

Hi,

Over the last couple of months when i switch my PC off or RESTART it gives that annoying black screen message.

How do i get rid of this as it DOES boots up if i leave it switched off for 5 minutes?

My OS is XP

Many thanksYour OS is not the issue. What are the details about the hardware?Do you mean this:

amd sampron 2400+

1.6ghz

224mb of ram.

I was thinking more in terms of motherboard make and model, age of machine, what happened prior to this, other issues, etc.I think its a Asrock K7S41GX motherboard.

The machine is only about 2 years old.

I remember downloading a game and i tried to install it but i didn't have direct x device/couldn't create 3d device so i tried to create one but it didn't work since my graphics card is built in and not up to it.

I do remember the game was unzipping files into what looks LIKE a semi black screen. THATS when i was roughly getting this problem.Still not working but i couldn't get the diskette to boot up.

I opened it up and made SURE i was earthed and i checked all the connections cos my floppy disc wasn't working either. I also removed the button battery on the MOBO cos i heard that sets it back to default settings.

I put it back together and it still showed the same messeage. You need to reset your BIOS,or try an AGP/slot add-on  graphics card. :-?How do i reset my bios?

I THOUGHT removing the button battery did that anyway? Quote

How do i reset my bios?

I thought removing the button battery did that anyway?

What is the MAXIMUM hot and HUMID climate in which with GOOD cooling system AMD processors will work LIKE june and july in Pakistan
Not entirely sure what that means.

http://www.heatsink-guide.com/content.php?content=maxtemp.shtml

Is that helpful?

i have this motherboard which turns on only when you flip the switch on PSU....the front panel power button doesn't seem to be able to turn it on or off.....my first thought was the power switch had GONE bad so i disconnected it from the main board......but weirdly enough the motherboard still comes on automatically when ever you hit the PSU switch even tho the front panel power button is disconnected :-/ any ideas what may be causing this?

EDIT- have any of you guys used UBCD (ultimate BOOT cd)? Is it safe enough to use on a clients computer? If you have any better suggestion be sure to list them.What are you trying to do with the ultimate boot CD?

The switch obviously is malfunctioning, so it would be up to you to REPLACE it or just keep doing what you're doing.

I've got a Gateway 4535GZ notebook, 60GB hd, Pentium M 735 1.7MHz,  333MHz DDR RAM, Windows XP.

Recently the computer has started freezing up when I move it more than just a little bit.  It's fine as long as it's sitting on the desk or on my lap.  But if I try to move it from desk to LAPTOP, for instance, the SCREEN and curser freeze, and I'm forced to restart with the POWER button.

I'm not sure exactly what caused the problem... my cat jumped on it.  But not a big jump.  The impact would have been much less than a medium-hard drop onto the table.

I've checked the power cord connection at the notebook and outlet.  I've tried with no power cord just battery.  And it still freezes.  A store technician suggested my hard drive might be bad... so I purchased a new drive and installed that last night.  After the computer booted up, I moved it around and thought the problem was solved... for a moment.  It took a little more jiggling but the darn thing froze up again.

Is there any thing else I can check?

I've though about the battery.  There seems to be some looseness to it, it doesn't fit completely tightly.  But I'd never really examined it before so I can't say for sure whether anything's changed.  Could a loose battery connection CAUSE the screen to freeze if the AC power supply is connected?

Anything else I can check before sending this thing to the computer shop?

THANKS!Could be the motherboard shorting out on the case. I suggest sending it to the shop. THere are very few user servicable parts on a laptop.

! My hard drive will not boot up!! I was able to get into the bios after replacing my battery and made a small change to check the fan at start up. I hit F2 to resume and it took me to this screen:

Phoenix bios 4.0 Release 6.0 G
Copyright 1985-2000 Phonix Tech Ltd.
All right Reserved
Copyright 1999-2000 by Hewlett Packard
Release 1.04
CPU=AMD Athalon Processor 850
640k System Ram Passed
191 M EXTENDED Ram Passed
0512 Cache SRAM Passed
System Bios Shadowed
Video Bios Shadowed
VMB Upper limit Segment Address E94B
Mouse installed
Fixed Disk 0: Maxter 6L06053
ATAPI Cd-Rom Sony DVD RW DRI/710A
ATAPI Cd-Rom Samaung DVD Rom SD-612
Error
CPU Fan Failed-Have System Serviced Immediately


Oh yea, it's a Hewlett Packard XL 776 Tower and all other important info about the computer is above in the bios.
Anyway, I checked the fan on the power supply and another fan that goes to the Motherboard and neither one are working. The power supply is a Delta DPS 160 GB B. Output 185W Max.

The questions I have are as follows: Is the fact that the hard drive is not booting due to the power supply and fans? How do I test the power coming out of the power supply going to the hard drive? Does the hard drive need replacing? What should I check next to get the drive working?

Great site, and as always, thank you in advance for your help!!
Quote

!
Anyway, I checked the fan on the power supply and another fan that goes to the Motherboard and neither one are working. The power supply is a Delta DPS 160 GB B. Output 185W Max.

The questions I have are as follows: Is the fact that the hard drive is not booting due to the power supply and fans? How do I test the power coming out of the power supply going to the hard drive? Does the hard drive need replacing? What should I check next to get the drive working?

Error
CPU Fan Failed-Have System Serviced Immediately

PO15 chip is fried. Can someone ID this chip for replacement. Not ABLE to verify  the numbers shown on the Fairchild IC. HP ZE 4400 model and NO Schematics available.looks LIKE its an old mobo. MIGHT be CHEAPER to buy a new mobo. Quote

looks like its an old mobo. Might be cheaper to buy a new mobo.

I have 7 Ultra 3 80pin SCSI drives that i need to test and format clean. The only computer I have access to is ONE that doesnt have any scsi connectors. What are my options? Is there such a thing as a scsi to usb cable?? Scsi to firewire? Scsi to anything?
Any help would be appreciated.  

I seems like they have adapter cables from scsi to usb but not in 90pin SCSI 80pin is very hard to come by these days I think.

You may have to buy an adapter to CONVERT it to 68 pin or 50 pin then try that with a USB to SCSI adapter (which would like require external housing and POWER for the drive as well) or with a modern internal SCSI controller card which seem to sell for 100 to 200 bucks.

I SEE an 80 to 50 pin adapter here:  http://item.express.ebay.com/Computers-Networking_Computer-Components_Drives-Storage_New-SCA-SCA2-80-Pin-to-50-Pin-ACTIVE-TERMINATOR-Adapter_W0QQitemZ110004444239QQihZ001QQptdnZDrivesQ20Q26Q20StorageQQddnZComputersQ20Q26Q20NetworkingQQadnZComputerQ20ComponentsQQcmdZExpressItem

I am only theorizing and have no idea if that would actually work but unless you can find an old 80 pin scsi controller card, cables, and terminator...

Dear Users
I have HP KAYAK with intel 440BX Dual processor 400MHz one each motherboard. When i install Age of Mythology it showed that you still have 400MHz processor game requirements is 500MHz minumum.As windows XP support dual processors so the total speed should be 800MHz and XP was also on the taskbar SHOWING both processors but it was only showing both processors but actual speed was still 400MHz.I have also enabled both processors from the bios but all in vain what should i do that windows XP realy dectect both processors so that complet speed should become 800MHz. Can any one help me for this prob.
Thankx (Please only those reply who knows the correct solution) Quote

Dear Users
I have HP KAYAK with intel 440BX Dual processor 400MHz one each motherboard. When i install Age of Mythology it showed that you still have 400MHz processor game requirements is 500MHz minumum.[highlight]As windows xp support dual processors so the total speed should be 800MHz [/highlight]and XP was also on the taskbar showing both processors but it was only showing both processors but actual speed was still 400MHz.I have also enabled both processors from the bios but all in vain what should i do that windows XP realy dectect both processors so that complet speed should become 800MHz. Can any one help me for this prob.
Thankx (Please only those reply who knows the correct solution)

I am using WinXP SP2

I have 2 SATA ports on my Mobo, and 3 SATA Hard drives (80, 250, 320Gb)

I want to use all SATA HDs, but I read SOMEWHERE it is not possible to mount 2 SATA HDs on a single SATA port/cable. I WOULD really prefer to be able to do this with minimal costs, and i'm just wondering if there is such a thing as a Split Cable (not Split Power Cable)... Google doesn't really help.

Can anyone please confirm this and tell me of any (cost-effective) alternatives.



You can't do that only ide. Use IDE. SATA is annoying trying to configure anyway (by my means).BOY, THANKS for answering BOTH my questions!

I did MANAGE to call up a shop and they told me what you just did... however, they said i could purchase a PCI card for more SATA slots.

Thanks~

Happy new year everyone,

I keep GETTING Sense Key 0x03 (Medium Error) ASC 0x73 ASCQ 0x03 (POWER CALIBRATION AREA ERROR) from my DVD burner whenever I try to burn a DVD-R.

Is this the end of the road for the DVD burner (it still reads) or is there something I can do to repair it? e.g. Can DVD burners be cleaned, and how?

TIAMost common cause of that is it doesn't like your media.  Try a different brand of media.

Sometimes its power, so you can try arranging it so your power cables so your DVD drive is on a cable all its own and not sharing power with other devices.  This could possibly help.

And you can try updating the firmware on your DVD drive.  The software to do this should be on the software CD you got with your drive, or at the manufacturer website.

It works with different media, but I've already burned over 60 DVDs on the same media that didn't work  :-?

How come I burnt 15 DVDs from one batch, and I can't burn on atleast 10 of the remaining 35

Its consistent too. Ever since last week its not burnt any more DVDs from that batch !!!This is the best explanation for the problem I have read.

I would suggest trying each of the solutions in this quote and if none of them work you MAY have a faulty burner.

Quote

I get a 'Power calibration error' or 'Calibration area (ALMOST) full' error message. Why?

Power Calibration is controlled by the recorder.

Before any write operation, all recorders must do a 15 step power test to determine the optimum power for writing to the CD; this is called "Optimum Power Calibration"(OPC). During the write, it continues to do this test to get the best write throughout the WHOLE CD; this is called "Running Optimum Power Calibration" (ROPC).

This whole process is controlled by the recorder, though initiated by programs such as Nero. There is an area on the inner part of the CD for the test and test data info to be stored. You can use this area up to 999 times.

If you receive the "Power calibration error" or "Power calibration area is (almost) full" error message, the cause will be either poor media, poor power, or a defective recorder.

Please try the following solutions:

1. Update the firmware of your recorder. Please check the manufacturer's website for the latest version.

2. Try another brand of media.

3. Try different power connectors, and for recorders, do not share power with other devices. It needs its own power connector. If the error occurs with an external recorder, the power source in the chassis could be the cause. As a test, try to take the recorder out of the external chassis and connect it internal.

4. Try different configurations, such as taking the CD-ROM to the primary IDE bus as slave and have only the recorder connected to the secondary IDE bus as master.

5. Send the recorder in for SERVICE.

:-? :-?Anyone have a decoding reference or seen this error before to know what is causing it? I thought it was the hard drive, so I INSTALLED a new hard drive and reinstalled Windows XP Pro SP2, and performed all updates, but she is still having a problem with the system. I know its not the hard drive or anything on it. Any suggestions or tools that might bring the problem to the surface???

This is what my friend reported to me:

LAPTOP crashed  went to blue screen and SAID it was dumping files. Here is the error signature:
Same thing it did a week or two before a total clean reinstall of OS Windows XP Pro SP2 on IBM Thinkpad Laptop 512MB RAM, 40GB HD, Pentium 4 CPU.

 
BC code 100000d1
BCP1 80800000
BCP2  00000010
BCP3 00000000
BCP4  F6666C66
OSVer  5_1_2600
SP  2_0
Product 256_1
I hit the Google button for you and found this

http://www.techspot.com/vb/all/windows/t-34344-Computer-restarting-or-freezing-usually-when-loading-desktop.html

These guys seem to think its a Ram problem

i would tend to agree blue screens are often caused by memory read write errors, and since its a new install of XP its probably not an application trying to write to protected spaceHey panboy ... I will check into the memory. Hoping it has 2 sticks so I can have her remove one and see if the problem goes away vs buying new Ram to test this.

Thankswww,memtest86.com for a free test. Check each stick for 30 minutes or so individually, then all together.

I just BOUGHT a new Hanns-G JC199d monitor because I thought my old CRT was going dark...come to find out the same problem exist on the new LCD. I am guessing video card...the problem is horizontal shadowing for instance the blue forum blocks shadow all the way to the end of the monitor.  Computer is all stock except ungraded to XP and 384 memory.

Any ideas?

ThanksGot a digital camera? Any chance you can post a picture?I believe that model has PCI EXPANSION slots as well as an AGP slot, so you may want to open the case and see if there is an AGP option.

The slots that are present will determine your options.

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/genericDocument?docname=bph06062&cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en&jumpid=reg_R1002_USEN

here ya go ?If you made no hardware or software changes prior to this, it is a video adapter problem. Are you using an onboard one or one that is in an expansion slot? Does it do this in safe mode as well?onboard Quote

If you made no hardware or software changes prior to this, it is a video adapter problem. Are you using an onboard one or one that is in an expansion slot? Does it do this in safe mode as well?

Hello

I am using dial in telephone for my internet. Some times I FOUND that the sound was turned off for some reason and I had to re boot the computer to get the sound back. WHen I dial the internet provider there is always the dialing sound but sometimes I don't hear it.. Any explanation why the sound system is on and off. I am using an ipod on ITUNES. THanksMore DETAILS on the hardware, the MODEM and the operating system and service pack would be helpful. Does the sound work fine until the modem is USED after a clean boot?

I just got a new motherboard and IM waiting for the processor to arrive.  My friend told me that the motherboard i have will slow down my processor.  I dont know if he knows what hes even talk about but i want to MAKE sure.  The processor is a AMD 2.2 Ghz 1Mb cache 3700+.   You can c its more detailed specs at: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16819103539
my motherboard is a machspeed which has detailed specs at: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2604788&CatId=0
I can always fill out an RMA for the motherboard if i have to cause i havent touched it cept i opened the box to look at it.  Plz help

P.S. Also will my 450W power supply be enough to handle my new motherboard, processor, and 7300Gt pci-express graphics card.  I heard that power-supplies under a certain limit of Watts wont be able to power the hardware.  Plz get back to me.Brin...... I just had a look at the specs of the mobo you have , and see no reason why it would "slow down" the AMD processor you have comming . Did your friend say why it would slow it down ?
If you have a decent 450 watt PSU , it should work just fine , however a larger one would allow for expansion down the road.

dl65  The key is decent. What power supply are you using?well it was pretty dark and i was to lazy to rummage through my house for a flashlight, but i have the specs for the PS but not the brand, they are:
# Power Supply Features:
# 450-watt power
# 115v-230v manual switch

# Power Supply Input:
# 115-230V 50/60Hz, 10A/6A

# Power Supply Output:
# +3.3V/26A
# +5V/35A
# +12V/15A
# -5V/0.5A
# -12V/0.8A
# +5Vsb/2A

# Power Supply Available Connectors:
# 20/24-pin ATX Power Connector
# 4-pin ATX12V Power Connector
# Three (3) Large 4-pin Molex Drive Power Connectors
# Two (2) Small 4-pin Drive Power Connector

P.S.  thx dl65, my friend was concerned about bus speedsThe brand is probably the most important factor.  well i found a semi flashlight, and all there is, is a red sticker that says ATX Switching power supply.  and some grids with numbers, then theres a smaller white sticker that says QC PASS on it and has like another little grid.  I got the exact case with PS here: http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=RED-CP601-4&cat=CAS

also on the new processor i ordered that i gave the link to earlier in this post, should i buy some thermal grease for that or do u think it will come with?I think your graphics card is more likely to slow down your computer than the processor and motherboard.I'll LET you guys debate the other hardware required, but that power supply is obviously a no-name CHINESE knock off and apparently used as well. Beware.  

As you got a retail boxed processor everything you need will be included, including a stock heatsink/fan and thermal pad. If you are overclocking it, you may well need to get a better cooler for the processor, but with that much horsepower, there will likely be no need for that.thx for your help guys, and dont worry, im not much into overclocking.

I've been having problems charging my Samsung laptop, the charger has to be held in a certain position in order for it to work. I've tried two chargers, both with the same problem.

It seems like it's a problem with the dc JACK but it was only replaced a few MONTHS ago (it was getting very hot all the time). Is there something else that could be going wrong? Is there any way to find out for certain?First, gt a manual for that laptop and see if there is some defective way to repair the connection.
Workaround: Find some device that lets you charge the battery outside of the laptop. Of COURSE, that would only be a temporary solution.
Quote

Workaround: Find some device that lets you charge the battery outside of the laptop. Of course, that would only be a temporary solution.

...i do the exact same thing for my phone...

Hello All.
I am looking to connect my PC with a Asus H-97 Pro motherboard, which has a HDMI out, DVI out to a Dell monitor with VGA input. VGA out on the CPU is already connected to the first monitor. Now I read that since HDMI, DVI are digital signals and VGA is analog, there is no way a passive 'converter' can be used to connect.
But then I always read such mixed reviews of such passive cables where one says it doesn't work, while the other says its perfect! Couple of VIDEOS where passive cables worked to connect HDMI out to VGA input. So I wonder how is it working for them? Where is the conversion happening for them? When and what exactly is this passive HDMI to VGA cable used for? Do they work for gaming stations and not CPUs?

What is the trick to figuring out active or passive when connecting digital out to analog in? Is it safe to assume that it definitely requires an active circuitry?
Coming back to my situation, what type of adapter should I buy? I have a HDMI out, DVI-D dual link out on my CPU and a VGA input Dell Monitor.

Thank you!Let me do a quick response.
Don't bu anything. Not yet. Consider all your options carefully, HDMI to VGA conversion and the other way can be a disaster.
....
After giving this some thought here's what I'm thinking. I am thinking you could buy yourself another graphics card that will provide you the output you need. Here's my reasoning. Doing the conversion of HDMI to VGA requires the use of an active adapter that only works in one direction.
Here's the problem. Some of the adapters people want to sell you are wrong way adapters you ask for HDMI to the VGA  and they'll try to sell you the opposite. They might try to sell you a VGA to HDMI active adapter. And there's no such thing as any passive adapter that converts digital to analog or analog-to-digital. Not really.
The COST of a good active adapter may be about the same price as what you would PAY for a good used dual VGA monitor.
Just about a week ago had to go through some of this stuff myself. At the present time you can pick up a very good television set with an HDMI input for a very reasonable price. You might consider the value of your current VGA monitor. What is it worth? If you want to keep using the VGA monitors I strongly recommend you go get a dual graphics card that has two VGA outputs. The card does not have to be expensive . In most cases any kind of PCI graphics card will outperform the built-in graphics on the motherboard. Actually, I really don't know what graphics your motherboard has, but the general consensus is that on board graphics are never as good as any kind of PCI graphics.
Now if you really, really want to do the HDMI to VGA conversion, you can get such things available at Amazon, New Egg and even eBay. Of course, you need to be careful when shopping on eBay. What you want is an adapter that goes from your video card over to the VGA input.
HDMI is the future for digital display systems.
I realize this is longer than what I had intended. In short, you have to have an active adapter to convert the digital signal to a VGA monitor. Check and see if the monitor has any other input options. Quite a few monitors nowadays have some kind of DVI connector. The DVI connector is most often a digital only connector, or in some cases it is a digital and analog connector in one package. My guess is that your motherboard probably has provisions for supplying either digital output or VGA output or even both. If both, it means that one monitor can be digital and the other monitor can be analog.
But I am thinking that for the price of just one active adapter you could buy a cheap dual VGA card. That's what I wanted to say.
Pardon me for the heirs you'll find in this. I wanted to respond to you right away and not take an hour or so to try to COLLECT my spelling errors. 
Whether that Dell supports dual monitors or not will be found in your Owner's Manual...Thanks a lot Geek! Forgot to mention my graphics card. Its an Intel HD graphics 4600, which does support multiple displays. The manual says multi-vga output, 1xDVI, 1xHDMI. I read that multi-VGA output will not give me an extended display. Or can it?
I was really hoping to avoid buying one more graphics card, or a HDMI monitor because of the price. Cant afford either at this point of time. My only option is to wait to buy one of these, or find a working adapter.  Any idea on the cheapest GPU i can buy just to have a VGA out?

So is it safe to say that there is no such thing as a passive DAC/ADC, and all products advertising that are a scam? I just want be sure of this since this piece of info can help me buy any product in the future, not just a display. Does something like passive DAC even exist?Most of the recent graphics cards support two displays. Inside,it is, of course,digital. Some DVI connectors provide one VGA and one digital output.
DVI to HDMI is not hard.

But conversion to VGA is s job. It takes so active stuff.

Google searches:

HDMI vs. DisplayPort vs. DVI vs. VGA: Which connection to choose ...
www.cnet.com › Home Entertainment CNET
Dec 10, 2013 - If you're looking to connect a computer to a TV or monitor, your choices are HDMI, DisplayPort, DVI, and VGA. What's the best connection?

DVI Information, DVI-I DVI-D DVI-A DVI and HDMI connector and ...
www.ramelectronics.net › Support and DIY Tutorials
Those with monitors with DFP connectors would need a DVI-D to DFP cable. You cannot directly connect DVI-D or DFP to VGA, since you need an analog to ...

Digital Visual Interface - WIKIPEDIA, the free encyclopedia
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Visual_Interface
Wikipedia
Digital Visual Interface (DVI) is a video display interface developed by the Digital Display ... Like modern analog VGA connectors, the DVI connector includes pins for the display data channel (DDC). A newer .... DVI and HDMI have the same electrical specifications for their TMDS and VESA/DDC links. However HDMI and ...


See that little horizontal bar? That area is for analog video.

Cheap HDMI to VGA. Sear for this and invariably they give the wrongthing.
wrong thing.
Amazon got it right.
Look here:
https://www.amazon.com/Ableconn-HDMI2VGAA-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00Y07LB0C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1471560807&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=monitor+cable+hdmi+to+vga&psc=1
Quote

The lightweight and portable adapter let you connect an digital HDMI output device to a legacy monitor/projector with VGA analog input.
Built with Chrontel CH7101A chipset. The active adapter converts digital HDMI signals to analog VGA. Product includes a Micro-USB cable which provides additional power for devices/computers with low power output from HDMI port such as MacBook Pro with Retina Display, Mac Mini.

And if I may correct you, its not the horizontal bar, but the four squares around the horizontal bar that carry analog.

Yesterday I took my GPU out to clean it. NEXT day my AUDIO didn't work properly. I'm using an Astro headset which CONNECTS to a Mixamp with a headset jacket, the same ones that headphones use. The mixamp goes into the computer via a USB. If I pull the jacket out of the mixamp a tiny bit, the audio works just fine tho. But my microphone doesnt work if I do that. I dont KNOW what to do tbh. I updated all drivers, so I think something in my computer is damaged.

Hi, i have a Benq GL2450HE and a club3D R9 270 CONNECTED with dvi-d

and my screen is not sharp, PICTURES and text are pixelated ...

(motherboard MSI A78M-E45) Wrong drivers...or the card is failing...how old is it ? ?* Could also be the display itself failing but Im leaning towards what patio said. But if you have HDMI on that card and a TV etc, Id connect to that and see if you get same results. If results are the same then its a driver or video card issue, if different then its a bad DVI cable or Display

Pixelated usually means the video card BTW or an issue with shared memory and RAM issue with refresh of memory addresses etc to where you have artifacts. 9 times out of 10 its a bad video card.

Random small blocks twinkling on the screen and progressively gets worse is usually a bad video card. Monitors can have bummed pixels and they are usually in a stuck state for the JUNCTION. Looking at a black background and seeing a white pixel or pixels that never change states is usually a sign of a display having issues. A couple bad pixels is not a problem but a whole bunch is. I bought a new Toshiba netbook in 2009 that had a single TINY pixel that was always white. Its not noticeable until your background goes black with display on and the back light shines through that pixel location. Problem didnt get worse so I lived with it.Sounds like the resolution is not set to the Native resolution of the Display. (1920x1080 in this case)

Hello

When I insert a blank TDK DVD with a view to burning a movie, I can hear the disk trying to start (whirring round) and restart over and over again and in Win 10 'This PC' I can see my drives, I just get that round blue circle endlessly rotating when I click on my CD-DVD E drive.

I remove the TDK disk and insert a new Traxdata DVD, and the same thing happens.

Finally, I use a VERBATIM disk which is a Windows boot disk (DVD+RW). When I try to remove the existing files by right-clicking on the drive and choosing 'Erase this disk', Windows tells me 'The wizard can't finish erasing this disk'.

On the other hand, I can see photos I have burnt to CDs and I can see DVDs that have been bought from shops.

Basically, the 'burn movie to DVD' aspect of things is not working.

The CD-DVD drive itself is about four weeks old and never used.

I can't return it to the manufacturer because I haven't got the order no (it was a GIFT).

Is there anything else I can try, please?

Thanks
What is make/model of the drive... from sounds of it it might be a CD-RW/DVD drive and not a DVD-RW drive maybe. Knowing the exact make and model number will SHOW if this is the case.That's what I suspect too since Dave, you solved a similar problem for me not long ago which was that my drive is CD-RW / DVD-R
meaning it will READ and write CD's but only read DVD's. A DVD-RW drive is needed to solve this issue.
BTW, Thanks again for your help that day Dave! Quote

BTW, Thanks again for your help that day Dave!

Hi,

I have WD My Passport 1TB external harddisk. It was working fine from last 2 years on my windows system. In last few months I also used this harddisk on my MAC laptop (Mac it shows only readonly mode as partition is NTFS).  I am not sure how it got corrupted but now its not working on windows as well as mac system.

In device manager under disk devices I can see "WD My Passport 0748 USB Device"
I also checked in Disk Management and I am seeing Unitialized Disk 1 with the popup message
"you must initialize a disk before logical disk manager" (Screenshot attached)

I don't want to miss my data. Any help is much appreciated.

On the side note, Before few hours I tried accessing the same drive in MAC, I could able to see the drive in MAC but 50% of the folders, also none of the folders were getting open. I also tried to access folder contain through command line by GOING into /Volumes/myharddisk/fewfolders  but even with command line was able to access couple of folders. For most of the other folder i got I/O error.

My guess is , it should be related to partition corruption but not sure. As in windows I can't see its mounted to can't even run chkdsk over it.


Thanks,
Varun Jain


[attachment deleted by admin to conserve SPACE]Update: Now even in Mac, its not showing anything. I'm afraid it sounds as though the drive is shot. I have multiple external drives and any important files / data / videos / music are stored an at least two external and one internal HARD drive. I suggest that in the future you might want to consider retaining at least two copies of all important files.Hi Allan,

Thanks for the reply. Is there anything I can do now or should i loose all hope?If you can't access any of the files from any computer, I'm not sure what you can do. If there are really critical files that you can't do without you can send the drive to a company that specializes in data RECOVERY - but that will be VERY expensive.

Really sorry.This time when I again plugged the harddisk , I am seeing new label F: in My Computer. But again I cannot access this label. Also when i run chkdsk /f F:  cmd prompt just hanged..  And now when I am looking into disk management, that is also hanged and i can see down bottom "loadding disk information" but nothing is happening..  Also hearing some sound from hard disk.. Not sure why different kind of strange behavior i am seeing from my harddrive.  Is there any freeware which I can download and resolve issue?

Is this the right document?
http://www.wdc.com/wdproducts/library/UM/ENG/4779-705063.pdf
WD offers service and support for that device.
That document recommends you check with the support site. Did you already do that?

1 thing i have had success when it comes to Passport drives is removing it from the external enclosure and hooking it internally as a slave drive...remove all power to the PC to do so..

Good Luck. Quote from: patio on February 10, 2016, 11:43:52 AM

1 thing i have had success when it comes to Passport drives is removing it from the external enclosure and hooking it internally as a slave drive...remove all power to the PC to do so..

Good Luck.

I have a Maxtor Shared Drive II for BACKING up important files, however, I got it USED too replace the other one that failed and made all these unknow directories.  I want too be able too reset it too the manufacture settings.  I also, am placeing it on a switch which, would like the ENTIRE network too see it.Maxtor is a pretty old HDD...you sure you wanna trust your data on it ? ?They still make drives  Link ? ?Maxtor was purchased by Seagate in 2006.   Reference: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MaxtorLonger ago than i thought...thanx soybean.SeaTools:
http://knowledge.seagate.com/articles/en_US/FAQ/206395en?language=en_US
The program will work on a Max tor drive, says Seagate.

I forgot that you can reset it from the back using a PIN holeHi Bob

There is software http://www.seagate.com/au/en/support/downloads/item/mss2-vista-zip-master/

This is vista software, couldn't find ANYTHING later. This program allows you to manage the nas,
Partition and reformat drives etc.
If you had one of these nas devices before you may have the software already loaded.

I am not sure why, but, when I try and INSTALL my sound card DRIVER, it keeps saying too put the card in which, it's all ready installed.  Windows 10, HDA Digital X-Mystique 7.1Is it a USB device ? ?...if so remove it...reinstall the software and the install it when prompted.So what do I do since it's not Same thing...make sure all power is removed 1st...So now what since, it's STILL doing it? Since it's still doing what ? ?...did you do as i suggested above ? ?For what it is worth.
How to install:
http://static.highspeedbackbone.net/pdf/xplosion_manual_eng_11-13-07.pdf

The user guide should be read all the way before the card is installed. If an important step is missed, one has to remove the card and any drives that were improperly installed. Then START all over.

This is a general rule. 

So any way, since, I had too use a vista driver.  Cortonia don't seem too be  speakingWhatever that means....It's a feature of Windows 10  I'm locking this thread. I will lock other threads of yours too when they start to waste our TIME.

I have two NEC MultiSync LCD 2070NX monitors connected (DVI) to a Dell Precision T5500 workstation with Windows 7 Professional. One monitor does not work properly. The screen is black, showing no picture. Remote CONTROLLING the computer, I can use both screens as if everything was OK.

Tested the monitor on another computer having Windows 10 Professional, similar hardware, and now connected with VGA, the same problem occurs. Everything is working fine remotely, as if there were two screens with no problems while remote controlling the computer. The monitor itself does not have any pictures, no display, and the screen stays black. A green lamp shows that the monitor is switched on.

Is the monitor broken? Can I somehow repair or fix this problem before THROWING it?
Some Dell displays require you to use the built-in setup to identify the connection you are using. Use the button on the display itself to enter the menu and choose the vga connection. If that doesn't work, try a different type of connection or cable.The monitor does not show any response when using the buttons. Stays black.I have tested the monitor on one computer, connected to DVI and on another computer, connected with VGA. Same result. Different computers. Different cable connections.Is it a new display?
No. It is several years old.Vid card...or onboard ? ?NVIDIA Quadro FX 580 Cards on both computers used for testing.
Then double-check all settings in nVidia Control Panel...Other similar monitors are connected to both computers used for this testing, and working. The problem cannot be on the computer side, as far as I can tell. The problem is one of several equal monitors.Then don't check the settings...not sure why your convinced it's not on the PC's end...I am not sure where the problem sits. However, having other similar monitors connected to both the first test machine and the second test machine, and all working well except one gives me a hint of the problem being the monitor. Also testing both computers while using both the DVI and the VGA connections. All working well except this specific monitor.

I have now OPENED the NVIDIA Control Panel. It is in NORWEGIAN, but I will try to follow your advice.

Hello every one I just signed up.Im new and I need some help that where can I turn.But let me describe my issue,I have a Windows 7 home premier OA HP computer.My problem is that usually when I finish my work I put the lap top sleep mode that when I do open the screen restart automatically except when not working days than I restart manually.Well last time I opened up the screen and the lap top started up alright but the screen stayed black.and just I caps lock button's LED went on and on,I can't get out my lap top from sleep mode What can I do I tried everything!!! The said things is that this is my wife lap top with the IMPORTANT info! Please help!!!!!!!When you have a QUESTION please start your own THREAD. I've split your post from the other topic, renamed it, and moved it to an appropriate forum where you should receive some proper assistance.

hey, built a computer last year and for the first month or two it seemed to be working fine, but after that its started to not turn on. when i press the power button it will all light up and the fans will start TURNING and the AudioBoost chip on the motherboard lights up too but it never gets to the bios screen and my monitor just says no signal and then there is no way to turn it off apart from switching the psu off, but occasionally it will turn on and work fine but that's after a lot of attempts of turning it on and it not working and normally its a few days later

the hardware i have is:
motherboard: msi 970 gaming
cpu: fx-8350
ram: 8gb corsair vengeance
gpu: msi gtx 970 (and originally 1GB gigabyte gpu but it does the same thing with both cards)
psu: corsair vs650

ive spoke to msi support and they told me to try clearing the CMOS which didn't do anything apart from the next time it did turn on it said that the cmos had been cleared and asked if i wanted to continue or go to setup
they told me to take each component out and put it back in and test it one by one and it didnt do anything either and try all the ram slots one by one
and they told me to unplug the cd drive and hard drive and try update the bios which didnt do anything or update
so now they've told me to speak to the shop i BOUGHT the motherboard from, so i emailed them about an hour ago but i thought i would try a chatroom and i got told to post a thread on the forum because it would be easier

so does anyone have any ideas or help?

thanks,
billy so i managed to get it to turn on again and i tried the live update and updated everything rather than just trying to update the bios and this time it says the bios was updated so im going to try turning it on again tomorrow to see if it will STILL turn on okay its been turning on okay for the past 2 days so i think it must of been a corrupt bios or something, it wouldn't update the bios until i updated msi live update though, so it could have been an issue with windows 10 maybe, but it all seems to be working okay now so thanks for the help on the live chat the other day

When playing high definition video files the video lags PRETTY bad. I'm not all that computer literate so I'm not sure what factors determine this. I don't have anything too FANCY for a computer, just a 1.7ghz with 256mb RAM. The graphics card is pretty old, a Geforce 2 MX/MX 400. Anyway just wondering if there is a quick way like adding a bit of RAM to remedy this. Thanks in advance.What OPERATING system? How much RAM on the video card? What kind of processor exactly? What types of files specifically?

If you don't know, you can download and run Everest Home and make a report which will show all of this.

http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.htmlHD Video will lag on that PC.
More details would help, but I'd suggest at least 512Mb RAM, preferably more, and a NEW graphics card.
Depending on the CPU, possible a new CPU might help.
That's just basic advice, more details would lead to better advice.Okay thanks, although it looks like I won't be able to fix that cause my DVD burner is crapping out now Thanks anyway.Bah, DVD players/burners are easy enough to replace . IMHO your processor has enough oompa to get the job done so long as it's not tied up with lots of other programs running. I have a 1.5 Ghz proc and it plays HD video pretty good. I have 1.24 Gigs of RAM installed, which leads me to believe that your machine could use a bit more in that department. Your Graphics Card also needs a boost. I'd say http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1776106&CatId=933 that ought to do, but you will need to see if your power supply and AGP slot are up to the job.

Maybe that's too much info, but better too much than too little .

ATI Saphire X1950 Pro
ATI Saphire X1950 XT
ATI ASUS Radeon EAX1950 Pro

Computer is primarily used for gaming1) How much money do you have ? ?
2) What are your machine specs ? ?
3) How important is your GAMING experience ? ?Which one is the cheapest, as two are the same model. Or I think XT is the fastest (check this), if you're WILLING to SPEND the extra money. Of course if the XT is cheaper than the other two then you're laughing.The top and bottom ones are the same.
The XT is the fastest.
But we NEED to know what patio ASKED as well, there may be a better option for you.

Vista Vista !!! I don’t know how many people are facing problems during upgrading there system with Vista. But I should not have upgraded my system with that. I’ve had my karma about 6 months, initially I had a few problems with it freezing etc but nothing major. Then last week it crashed and then froze on the rebuilding database screen when I turned it back on. I’ve finally got it on now but everything is gone. The thing is that it still says that there’s 12gb being used when I go to 'about rio karma'. Does anyone know of any way to SALVAGE the MUSIC on there because following the recent death of my hard drive, all my music was on the rio (I never got around to putting it back on the pc). I’ve tried rio taxi and riorad explorer, both to no avail. If anyone has any ideas id really appreciate it, since there was some really rare tracks on there.Remove that HDD and hook it up as a slave in a known working desktop machine...you may get lucky.The problem is that the file allocation table (of sorts) is corrupted. Things like this can happen to any hard drive device, so to fix it, you must treat the karma as an external hard drive and proceed from there.

Connect the karma to your pc with the usb cable so that windows will recognize it as a device (assigning it a drive letter) and you can ACCESS it through my computer.

If you can't access it through my computer, then use [[start>SETTINGS>control panel>administrative tools>computer management]]. Use the disk management tool to find the karma and GIVE it a drive letter.

Then you should run data recovery software on that drive. The software will ignore the file allocation table and read through your hard drive sector by sector to determine what is actually on the disk. One data recovery software  that I am using is  by a SalvageData Labs. Yes, you have to purchase salvage software (or acquire it by some means), But it’s a nice software I am sure you get your data back.
Apologies, i mis-understood...are you saying the music files are on the RIO / Karma device ? ?
If so disregard.

}{ey everybody!

I'm getting READY to switch my home file server over from using a single drive to a RAID array (too much VALUABLE data sitting there WITHOUT a safety net.)

Anyhoo, my question is does a RAID array have to USE disks that have been especially "paired" for the job? In other words, manufactured to be part of a RAID array? Or, conversely, can I use ANY two disks of the same brand and model?any two will do. i am sure that they do not need to be the same model either. as long as they are the same size.Cool. Many thanks!your welcome.

p.s. i dont know how much computer knowledge you have, but just an added note, in order to have a RAID array, you have to be using SATA harddrives. Quote

your welcome.

p.s. i dont know how much computer knowledge you have, but just an added note, in order to have a RAID array, you have to be using SATA harddrives.

Hi, my PC does not seem to start up. Last time I have changed items in the BIOS, since then when I click the powerbutton I HEAR 3 fast beeps and the PC turn off.

Can you help me?Unplug the machine from the power source.
Remove a side panel and locate the CMOS battery ( bout the size of a dime ) on your MBoard.
Remove it.
Press the power button a few times to discharge stored energy.
Reverse the PROCESS and stay out of the BIOS.

As always when working inside the case take all ESD precautions...RESET BIOS or set to deafault then let see if the problem still persist. Quote

Reset BIOS or set to deafault then let see if the problem still persist.

Check the memory. then insert it again...

Hello All,

I am not that good at desktop hardware and ALMOST zero in laptop disassembling. My all hardware experiences were swapping RAM sticks , replacing old HDD's(PROBABLY IDE's) with one another and a few DVD writers. Now my laptop is dead and I've told me that the motherboard crashed and it is not worthy to replace and I replaced it with one.

Now the only part I could reuse out of my once a favorite machine was the HDD.

And I am now purely looking to get my hands dirty on hardware by doing stuff here as my laptop is already dead .

I think the PROCESSOR is good in it and i am looking whether I could buy a cheaper motherboard and use it to have my machine run and learn something useful.

I WOULD not be disturbed by its performance and by that I mean I don't need an expensive UPDATED motherboard. I just need one which is compatible and to see it work.

Is that a good idea? Or could I use the processor in a desktop. I have a couple of old cpu's
(P4 days!) sitting idle which I think are not compatible with an i3 2nd gen processor(If laptop processor's are really supported in a desktop motherboard). Or I could buy a desktop motherboard put the processor in, use the old HDD's and RAM sticks and play around.

Which of these makes some sense? I am again mentioning that I am doing this out of pure curiosity spending more bucks on a dead machine and i don't expect the machine for more than spreadsheets and firefox.Realisticallly the only thing you could use is the hard drive.

Accidentally knocked something over and ripped an hdmi cable out of the video card. When I reinserted it, it would'nt recognize the monitor it was attached to. When I restarted, it wouldn't recognize any monitor. Did what EVERY site told me on how to reset bios and reseated the xmas battery. Now it won't boot at all. Just posts, gives 2 beeps and sits there with the fan running until I hit the power.

The motherboard is a p8z77-v LX. Having found the Manuel on the Asus website, there is only a small beep CODE table listing a long beep followed by 1 to 5 SHORT ones. Nothing about 2 short, though I recall hearing somewhere that 2 beeps is generally a cmos error.

/wits.

Good Day

I have strange issue, First of all the internal screen is damaged , The laptop was WORKING fine on the external display but the PC was giving issues with Windows , I recently reloaded it (Windows on top of Windows) . Now I cannot get the external display to work without drivers, I took the PC apart to blow out the system, is there away to get the HP G7 to Boot from External Screen instead of internal while we WAIT for the part to come

Its an HP G7

2nd Gen i5
Mobility Raedeon, (Not sure what Graphics CARD model)
8GB RAM


[attachment deleted by ADMIN to conserve space]If you use a VGA connected monitor it does not need any drivers. From power on both screens will display.
If you are using VGA and there is no display then there is a hardware FAULT in the laptop as well as the broken screen.
What model of G7 is it? This will help with the graphics card model.

My sons computer currently has an AMD FX-4300 processor. I recently got a AMD FX-6300 processor very cheap(brand new). I was going to re-sell it to make some money. But I was wondering if I put that processor in my sons computer how much of a difference he would notice in performance. He mostly games on his computer, but he doesnt play anything thats real graphics intensive. Mostly MMOs and such.

He has a MSI 760GMA-P34 motherboard.
(yeah, I know)

Thanks!

FX-4300 specs:

FAMILY   AMD FX Series
LINE   AMD FX 4-Core Black Edition
MODEL   FX-4300
OPN TRAY   FD4300WMW4MHK
OPN PIB   FD4300WMHKBOX
TOTAL L2 CACHE   4 MB
UNLOCKED   Yes
CMOS   32nm
SOCKET   AM3+
Performance
BASE CLOCK SPEED   3.8 GHz
MAX TURBO CORE SPEED   4 GHz
TDP   95 W


FX-6300
FX-6300
Model
FD6300WMHKBOX

CPU Socket Type
CPU Socket Type
Socket AM3+

Details
Core Name
Vishera
# of Cores
6-Core
# of Threads
6
Operating Frequency
3.5 GHz (4.1 GHz Turbo)
L3 Cache
8MB
Manufacturing Tech
32nm
64-Bit Support
Yes
Virtualization Technology Support
Yes
Thermal Design Power
95WMMOs are on line - Right?
The faster CPU does very little to improve Internet speed.
Still, he might like the idea of a better CPU.
 - He might intimidate his rivals. 
Oh I wasnt talking about better GAMING performance. I was just wondering if it would make any difference overall operation. Quote

But I was wondering if I put that processor in my sons computer how much of a difference he would notice in performance. He mostly games on his computer, but he doesnt play anything thats real graphics intensive. Mostly MMOs and such.

wow, minecraft, star wars battlefronts, rift, eve, GTA

New member, IT student, I've read the stickies, first post, let's get to it.

Considered placing in the Win Vista/7 section, but it has to do with a new graphics card and needed to update my BIOS.

My computer is a custom built, that I was gifted years ago:

SilverStone is marked on the casing if that helps lol

Old graphics card info


New card info: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487052&cm_re=02g-p3-3733-kr-_-14-487-052-_-Product

My PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341032

Here's my sound info if you find any use for it.
http://i.imgur.com/2Lbuchv.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/kOBdSDf.jpg

I use two Dell monitors simultaneously, can LOOK up power draws if approximation isn't good enough.
Dell 2009W
Dell S2209W
-----

Long story short, wanted to play Space Engineers with friends, planets being new to me (Totally awesome, played on their computer for a bit) and my computer couldn't run it with planets.

It required Dx11 and my card could only reach Dx10.

I bought this new card and assumed I had installed correctly as I was able to install all the drivers for it, were I to throw the new card back in I think it would boot just fine and the drivers would still be fine.

The problem is, after a period of time beyond booting (could be 60 seconds, could be 10 mins) the computer will just power off without warning and reboot. It will ask me to do startup repair for the sudden shut down.

I may be mistaken, but I figure my PSU is not the issue for a number of reasons.

I've looked all day for solutions. I've plugged it straight into the wall rather than a surge protector. I've made sure all my drivers are in line, I have the CD in the machine currently. I've booted with a single monitor to reduce power use.

The one solution I have yet to put to use is to update my BIOS (and if this doesn't work, maybe my motherboard can't handle the power draw). I have done it for other computers in the past, HP, Compaq, Dell, but I cannot find anything on Award Software International, Inc. to download the update. Through searching I have found that I can at least update from F5 to F7 which may solve my problem, but I cannot for the life of me find anywhere to download it from.

I know they merged with Phoenix, and eSupport.com. I cannot find anything that allows me to access the updates I need, no where I look. All I get is this same site every time and it looks so jank...

http://biosagentplus.com/?ref=36&PHPSESSID=91i0ighk2pjcfgnmprodlbmnp2

Bios Agent Plus, it just plain looks like a scam, how aggressive its sale pitch is and that without it I apparently just can't get my BIOS. I SAW on forums that people were at least having results, so knowing I could get my money back if needed I got it.

Waste of time. I paid for BIOSAgent and received DRIVERAgent...

So I'm at a loss. I see on forums that people are able to find these BIOS updates, but I never see links or instructions on where to go to get it. Unlike the brand name companies who have a site to go to, there's nothing but scams for this one?First of all, pursue a refund for BIOSAgent - Totally worthless junk.

You need to find the model number of your motherboard, you can then download the BIOS update from the motherboard manufacturer's website.I've listed it.

Gigabyte Tech, X48-DS5

Here's the listing under cmd


The exact problem described being, that there is no manufacturer site to download from.
Or at least I am unable to find it....
----------------------------
Okay, NEVERMIND, EBCAK.

Was looking for Award software, when I needed to look for Gigabyte... 

Whelp, nvm everyone. Problem solved.
http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=2766&dl=1#bios
---
Edit: Just got done requesting refund.I appear to have lost the ability to edit, so please excuse the double post.

So I successfully reflashed my bios to the newest F8C, double checked in POST and cmd, and it has done nothing to solve this problem.

My computer is still restarting, and to the point where installing graphics drivers or anything for that matter is impossible as it'll restart before it finishes.

I tried installing the new drivers while the old card was in and no success.

I've run out of options I am aware of, minus buying a new MB, but I also don't want to just give up looking for solutions, buy a new board, and have it still restart. I'd like to know exactly what is causing this.

Watching temps and voltage in CMOS/BIOS and my 12V isn't dipping (12.4 lowest), all power is apparently stable.

The temp is rising over time, much more slowly I would assume just being in BIOS, but perhaps I need to find a better cooling method. Now thinking it's an overheating issue. The question then being, why?
---
Nope, temps never went above 50C and it still did it... Perhaps I'm just gonna have to wait until I BUILD a new from scratch?
---
Final edit before waiting for instruction:
Got the BSOD, a DISK BOOT FAILURE, and headache until I just reverted to my old graphics card. At least it's not restarting, still got the new BIOS too.

Hi,

I have an external drive I've been using for about a year now but suddenly it's no longer available to use. If I go to disk managment it says there is an Unknown disk that needs to be Initialized. I'm ASSUMING that's my external disk so I don't want to initalise it because I think that might erase the data on it. I think I'm in a catch 22 as I can't run anything to fix the drive because the computer won't see it fully anymore. I read about something called ChkDsk which will repair bad drives but I don't think I can do that because of the disk not being detected properly.

Is there a way out of this?

Thanks for reading,
Dan... dictation...
Here are some general things you can check. The first thing to try is to see if your external disk drive can be seen on another computer. That will help eliminate the possibility of some kind of difficulty with your computer.
If the problem appears to be the external drive, here are some things you can check:
external drives often have external power supplies. These power supplies to age with time, depending on the quality of the materials used in construction.
The hard drive mechanism itself can be having difficulty. It could have been damaged or simply got stuck. Once in a while I'll hard drive does get stuck because of environmental conditions.
There is also the possibility that the USB interface inside the external drive is not working correctly. It could be just a loose connection between the USB drive adapter and the hard drive itself. In a few cases the contacts become OXIDIZED and simply removing and inserting the contacts over again for both the data and the power connection might help. Still, that is the least likely thing. It is mentioned only because it's EASY to check.
It may be possible to hook your external drive by itself into your computer system. Desktop computers usually have some privation for adding a second hard drive. If that is the case, you could then try using the it external hard drive itself inside your desktop case if you have the right connectors for power and data.
My best guess is that the failure is either the external power supply or the USB adapter itself. Although hard drive still fail quite often, my experience has been that the USB adapters are sometimes very low quality. It depends.
Most likely your external drive adapter is outside of warranty by now. Nevertheless, I suspect that the hard drive itself is still usable, but you'll have to get it to work on another computer.
If you have any questions, please ask in I or somebody else will try to link you to the site that shows how to replace a hard drive or to make a hard drive the slave inside of a working computer.
Pardon any errors you see in my grammar. I did this in a hurry to get back to you as soon as possible 

I've accidentally cmd cleared my external HDD in the past, which erased the HDD so much so, that it forgot it was a HDD lol.

Was trying to reformat it but I wasn't as tech literate then as I am now and got ahead of myself.
This particular episode couldn't really be done by accident, buuuut the solution may be just as useful in your case.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/281191-32-accidently-diskpart-cleaned-external-hard-disk
(hopefully it's okay to link to other forums?)

I will warn you though, if you don't know what you're doing, you could lose all of your data. It's possible that the Master File Table (MFT) became corrupted some how.

If it's suuuuper important data, there are tech places you can take it to that will disassemble the drive and place the platters in a reader. They then reconstruct the Master File Table and poop out a usable drive with all your goodies as if nothing ever happened.

I don't think this is a cheap operation, but I could be wrong.

Good Luck
---
Edit: This may be helpful as well https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ofkbj_siQDsParting shot.
To underscore the value of a good backup, consider how much easy byte is worth. A PENNY? If so, the one million bytes of data is worth $10,000 and a gigabyte is more  money than most of us  ever have.
Free CLOUD services are out there. Google drive is one.
And a DVD-R can hold about 4.7 GB and cost about 50 cents.
If you have an old working HDD laying in your junk box , buy a USB adapter and use it as a DIY backup device.
So a small invest in time and money can  prevent a real PITA.

I have built  PC and want to make sure that this PSU is gonna be alright with it. im happy to hear any other improvements to the build if you have any

http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/6ypkpg
Case link: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221685830952?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITPower Supply LOOKS good. Good brand/quality and proper rated.

If you already bought this all then it is what it is, but if you havent bought the motherboard YET, I would GO with a Gigabyte or ASUS brand board instead of ASRock. You might have to pay a little more depending on what features you want, but it would probably hold up better.Thanks, i haven't purchased yet, will have another look around for motherboard.

Dell OptiPlex GX260 Series running Lubuntu.  Could have been a power surge caused a reboot, but boot won't complete.  Drive unrecognized.  Tried running diagnostics and everything passed.  Tried setting caps lock, NUM lock, scroll lock, then Alt E, Alt F, Alt B; now Drive 0 is set to OFF.  Tried F2 to reset Primary Drive 0 to Auto, but still black screen only after reboot.  Tried F2 again and noticed that drive 0 is back to OFF.  I checked forums (older ones, too), as I figure someone has surely encountered this before, but I didn't see anything helpful.  Anyone know a solution to this?If you try to install Ubuntu to the drive with a clean install the drive shuts off? If you havent tried a clean install you can try that to see if some sort of sleep MODE problem is causing this.

If during a clean install the hard drive goes out to lunch then I would replace the hard drive with a healthy one. If problem continues with a DIFFERENT healthy drive, then I would swap out the power supply with a known good supply. I have had power supplies cause hard drives to disappear or act up before yet the voltages are strong enough for the system to continue running but with a drive failure. I swapped out the HDD and the problem remained, my 12VDC was weak and so I swapped the power supply with a healthy one and that fixed the issue.At some POINT a new hard drive may be the only solution. Few hard drives now have a  five year warranty.  The mean time to fatal failure is still high for the group, but when a single  drive FAILS the statistic does not help.

Unless you have a hard drive service station in you home...
Buy a new drive.

Since upgrading my computer to Windows 10 I've has a rare problem where my Logitech wireless keyboard randomly LOOSES all responsiveness in Google Chrome, which means I cannot type anything into Chrome anywhere within the browser including the address bar and websites. When this happens the keyboard works just fine in Edge as well as Cortana and trying to use it there frees it up in Chrome.Very, very  strange.
IMHO you should forget USING a wireless keyboard. It is not worth the time and effort it would take to isolate the issue.
BTW: Windows 10 might not have the right drivers for your system.

General Windows 10 issues with old ATI/AMD hardware
Quote

Unfortunately your graphics product is physically unable to support Windows 10 features, hence there are no drivers available for it.
If it's working fine with your present operating system, I would recommend you do not upgrade to Windows 10.

Geek... what does their post have to do with ATI/AMD hardware issues? I dont see any system specs or info shared by them to point down this path.

What make/model computer or custom build specs are you running funguy11 ?

Replace the keyboard batteries...

A workaround that might help if that doesn't work could be to press the Windows Key Twice to make Chrome pay attention (Open the Start Menu and close the start menu basically).

Interesting work around BC .... never thought of using the Windows key that way before. I've only used it as an interrupt to get back to desktop start menu when in video games or other applications that full screen.

Hello so I am CURIOUS as to how to get the best picture QUALITY out of my
new monitor, I was gifted a ASUS VN248 23.8" widescreen LED monitor
and had a few questions.

Whats the best connection to USE from my Graphics Card(R9 290) to my Monitor?
It comes with a DVI-HDMI cable, a VGA cable to DVI, and an MHL-HDMI cable

would I be better off with a straight HDMI-HDMI cable?
----
How do I achieve the best picture quality out of my monitor?
----
Not necessarily related to to picture quality, but when choosing wallpapers how do I find ones
that'll fit my desktop the best? (I don't know what aspect ratio)
----
HDMI and DVI will be identical. HDMI-MHL adds some USB control features but that isn't utilized by graphics cards, and is more a hybrid USB/Display interface for devices like Set top boxes to be able to "control" the display.

Just don't use the VGA/D-Sub if you can help it. That will be an analog signal.

Your monitor is 1080p. that is 1920x1080. That is a 16:9 ratio. So for desktop wallpapers you want to find wallpapers that are ideally at that resolution or higher at that aspect ratio. You can use wallpapers at a different aspect ratio but they might stretch slightly if you use the "stretch" option. I use a 2880x1800 (16:10) wallpaper on my 2560x1440 (16:9) Monitor, for example, and it looks fine. (I use a Display PORT connection but it looks the same as with HDMI or DVI)

I originally posted this problem on Hardware, but found that I should have posted it here on Windows Vista.
My wife's computer shut down unexpectedly, and on restart briefly displayed a blue screen message, "Windows failed to START", and then another screen with "Windows ERROR Recovery" with the choice of "Launch Startup Repair" which when attempted, failed. My wife has files on the computer hard drive that she desperatel would like recovered.
A nice member, DaveLembke, replied to my original post, with the advice to run System Recovery from System Recovery discs. After trying suggested HP Customer Support troubleshooting steps, I  made the attempt with System Recovery disc 1; the computer showed "Windows gathering files", but then the screen turned green and BECAME nonrespondent; I killed the power after a couple hours with nothing to show. Later, I restarted the computer with disc 1 still in the tray, after another HOUR of nonactivity I again powered off the computer.
I feel that I am butting my head against the wall; does anyone have advice of how to get the computer to respond to and run the System Recovery discs or any other advice on recovering  spreadsheets, and other document files?
My wife informed me that all she wants for Christmas is to recover her files.
Thanks to all who read this post and especially to any who may reply. 

The computer is a HP Compaq Presario desktop model SR5025WM-B with 1024 MB PC2-4200 SDRAM and 250 GB 7200 RPM Serial ATA hard drive. There are two system recovery discs that were made from the computer.You ALREADY have an active thread on this topic. I'm locking this one.

Argh. God. Man. Ach! This is killing me. Kill. Ing. Me.

I have a new laptop - a Dell Lat E7250, Win 7-64.

I have a Monster Superstar speaker.

It does not connect with the Bluetooth on my laptop.

It pairs, but only sporadically does it actually connect.

The speaker connects automagically with my iPad, iPods, and Android phone. (In fact, if my iPod is in my briefcase and I turn the speaker on, it automatically reconnects).

When I select "SHOW BT Devices" on my laptop, it shows the speaker under Devices. When I click on Services, it spins and spins and spins and comes back with "No available services."

Occasionally, it will give me the option to click to connect to the speaker. I'd say it's about one in ten tries.

It does not MATTER if I reboot, if I turn the speaker on and off, or if I do both.

I have updated the drivers. It happens if I'm in active pairing mode on the speaker or not.

What am I missing, what should I try?

ThanksHere are some things you need to consider.
The Dell website has a number of driver updates for your computer. However, you might have some TROUBLE finding a 64-bit driver for the Bluetooth device that is built into your Dell laptop.
And even if you do have the correct driver, your Bluetooth device built into the Dell laptop may be marginal. The fact that other devices you have worked well with your Bluetooth speakers would suggest that.
So here is the quick and low-cost solution to your problem. You purchase a Bluetooth adapter that will work with your operating system and your laptop. These are available from online stores such as Amazon and nNew egg.
A good quality Bluetooth to USB adapter should be under $20 for the generic variety. These often work as good or even better than the built-in devices in your Dell laptop.
The other option the try to diagnose any possible problems with the built-in device, but that would be along and time-consuming process. That is why I think buying the external adapter is the best option at this point.
Bluetooth does not require a lot of bandwidth and if your device is within then a short distance there should not be any connection problems at all. Sometimes Bluetooth receives interference from other devices, such as Wi-Fi routers. But if there's reasonable distance between your laptop and another Wi-Fi device this should not be a problem. In fact, a good Bluetooth device can operate on your laptop while the laptop is doing a Wi-Fi connection. The Bluetooth devices selected channel that is not being used by your Wi-Fi.
By the way, what is the bandwidth of your Wi-Fi device on the Dell laptop? If it is running at the standard 54 Mb per second, it should not cause interference to a nearby Bluetooth device.
If in the event you find your Wi-Fi system is causing interference to your Bluetooth devices, you can change the channel number on your Wi-Fi device and see if that HELPS any. Some Wi-Fi modes take up quite a bit of bandwidth, in which case you try to move the channel to the upper or else lower part of the low band spectrum. If you use the HIGH band on your wireless device, there should not be any interference with Bluetooth. Bluetooth normally uses the frequencies set aside for the lower band of Wi-Fi and normally has a very narrow channel width as compared to Wi-Fi.
Of course, these are only generalize observations. I still suspect that the problem is with the hardware of your Dell laptop. Just my opinion.

 Hope this helps. Please excuse grammatical errors.   

Specs:

OS: Windows 7 64-bit

Motherboard: MSI NF750-G55 AM3 NVIDIA nForce 750a SLI ATX

CPU: AMD Phenom II x4 3.2 GHz

PSU: Corsair TX750

RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB

GPU: MSI Twin Frozr II Geforce GTX 560ti

Story: While playing Rust my computer overheated and shutdown. I built this computer four years ago and while this has happened a few times over the LAST year, all times before this I could turn it on and it would be fine. I pressed the power button and instead of turning on the light near the power button flashed. I felt on the side of my computer where the CPU was located and it was hot. Not scalding but still pretty warm. I turned off the PSU, unplugged everything and proceeded to dust out my computer. Once it had cooled down I plugged it back up and it did not turn on, even the lights near the power button did not flash. It made a slight sound similar to the sound an older television would make before the picture showed up, but that was it. Next I tried to see if anything was broken by unplugging the RAM, GPU, hard drive and disc drives from the motherboard and then trying to turn the mother board on and start from there. While the standby light on the motherboard was on the fans were not. I cant exactly remember why but I unplugged a cord labeled jpwr2 located near the CPU and heatsink and when I pressed the reset button on my computer the fans turned on. I plugged everything except for the jpwr2 cord back in and the fans included the fan on the heatsink and one of the fans to the GPU would still come on. The lights on my mouse would come on and the lights on my keyboard would flash once but then stay off. On the motherboard when the PSU was powered on the standby would turn on, once the reset button on the computer was pressed the standby light would turn off, the before mentioned fans would turn on and at the top of the motherboard, near to ICs labled CPU phase there were four lights in a vertical row, only the topmost or first light blue light would be on during this time.

Conclusion: I am unsure as to what exactly is causing this to happen. I don't know what I must replace or if there is some fix that can be applied. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
You really need to read the documentation fort your motherboard.
Find out what thing USES the  other 12 volt plug.
Here is a link about power connectors on motherboards.
http://www.informit.com/articles/article.aspx?p=31105&seqNum=4

Best guess is that you have a graphics card that failed.  Thank you for responding.While I found and read the manual for both my Corsair power supply(http://www.manualslib.com/manual/378402/Corsair-Enthusiast-Tx650.html) and my nf750-g55 motherboard(http://www.manualslib.com/manual/398411/Msi-Nf750-G55-Motherboard-Atx.html) I couldn't make out exactly what else used 12 volts besides the 24pin connection for the motherboard and the 4pin connection for the CPU.Also,  I completely disconnected my GPU, but that doesn't SEEM to have changed anything.Looking in the motherboard manual, JPWR1 is the main 24-pin connector.

The standby light would remain on whenever the motherboard was receiving power.

This does seem like a power supply problem.

When a system is off, but plugged into power- the Power supply will provide a 5v standby rail to the system, as well as a PS-ON signal. The standby 5v is what powers the "standby" light on most motherboards, which is more or less an indicator that the system is receiving power. The power supply doesn't provide other voltages until the PS-ON pin is grounded. This is done by the power switch- you press it, the connection is grounded (by bridging the connection between the PS_ON signal and a ground wire), the voltage drops on the PS_ON Rail to the threshold (around .8v according to the spec) and the power supply turns on. The voltage can be manipulated by software control as well, thus why systems can "turn themselves off".

If your fans turn on and the main ATX connector is not connected, then I think the power supply may have failed, or is at least having issues. Fans run off of 12v power on a rail that is not supplied until the PS_ON signal is grounded.  Thing is, if you have the ATX Connector unplugged, it shouldn't be grounded. I don't think the motherboard could be involved given that with the ATX connector unplugged the motherboard couldn't be shorting out or grounding the PS_ON pin in any way, but the fans suddenly turning on when you press reset (which is something that the motherboard handles) is incredibly odd.



THe best approach is usually the process of elimination by using known-good components. I'd start with a second power supply first.Thank you for your response. While I am still trying to find a power supply with enough wattage for my board and CPU(most of the other desktops in my home where store bought nearly a decade ago), I found out that I had switched the power and reset switch pins while messing around with the motherboard. This at least explains why it would turn on when I would press the reset button. Now it properly turns on when I press the power button instead. Quote from: kendread on June 29, 2015, 04:42:00 PM

I am still trying to find a power supply with enough wattage for my board and CPU

My key board is still typing but opens up something on windows 10 I've NEVER seen before on any other OS. The keyboard use to open up google chrome with every key and refresh it, I've tried deleting google chrome then this issue popped up, id APPRECIATE any help.Can you post of image of what you see when this happens?   If not, then please describe in more detail what appears on your screen. 

Does every key on the keyboard cause the same action?  Did this issue start suddenly or sporadically?  Does it happen all the time now?   If any key opened/refreshed Chrome before than it is a sticky/hot key issue...Here what pops up on my screen now

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Is this computer a laptop or desktop?  Do you have an EXTRA keyboard you can try using? It's a desktop, and no extra keyboards. I might just pick up a new one today and hope for the best If you do, let us know how it TURNED out.

Hi guys minor problem after upgrading to the new windows 10 after SHUTTING down the built in card reader power lights remain on (everything ELSE has powered off ok) card reader works fine just won't turn itself off. Not a huge problem I know merely curious as it never did this before upgrade any THOUGHTS Sounds like the USB power at rest is enabled. This is to allow for your system to be ABLE to charge USB devices when computer is off. This will not hurt ANYTHING, but I believe this is your issue. My Toshiba Netbook came bundled with a feature like this that I can enable/disable through software.yes probably that's what it is. any particular software come to mind