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I've been getting low fps with the gtx 970 in the last few DAYS. For example, in Unigine Benchmark where I used to GET 60 fps I will now get no more than 20. I have the latest version and have reinstalled my graphics CARD drivers. I am not sure what could be causing this. The usage is 100% which is unlike other peoples I've seen on threads. Can anyone help?

This is my complete pc setup:
http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/6dhPqs

I got a used CPU and I'm worried because it seems to be overclocked. So, I've gone into the BIOS, made sure (to the best of my ability) no OC settings were on, and checked my Target CPU Turbo Speed, which was 3400 MHz, as expected. Everything seemed to be disabled/automated, so I don't know where to go from here. Using Task Manager while I'm playing a game, I can see it stays around 3.74 GHz, but the average TEMPERATURE can reach 80 degrees CELSIUS and at that point I exit the game. Any help would be appreciated. I've already ordered an aftermarket heat sink to help with the temperature problem, but I don't want the clock speed to be over the factory settings.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Fastest reset for BIOS is to clear it on the main board. As far as 80C I have concerns that your heatsink might not have proper thermal compound on it or is going to be inadequate for it even at the 3.4Ghz native clock. A 10% overclock shouldnt be pushing you into 80C TEMPS.

Did you clean up the CPU and Heatsink surface of OLD thermal compound and add a drop of new thermal compound center of the CPU before adding heatsink? Is the fan spinning ok and not clogged with dust?

Your memory might be set to a 10% overclock that is causing the CPU to run overclocked via faster FSB setting. For example I overclock my Athlon 64 x2 4450B from 2.3 to 2.53 Ghz by a 10% FSB overclock setting from 200 to 220Mhz since my multiplier is locked to 11.5 x 220Mhz = 2530MhzSo, I should reset my BIOS to default settings? There isn't a value I can change somewhere? I don't want to mess anything up.

I cleaned the heatsink of thermal compound and there isn't much dust, but I can remove that too. I've had problems setting my heatsink. I believe 1 or more pins have expanded and they don't fit. 

The first time I set it I was sure all the pins were through. My only problem may have been too much thermal compound and not being able to set it properly (I couldn't get the diagonal pairs to go in at the same time). the second time I kept the motherboard in the case and spread the compound on the heatsink. This didn't seem to make a difference.
Once the new heatsink comes in I'll try again.

I'm not going to lie, I can barely understand that last line. From what I do gather, I don't understand how my RAM could be OC'd. I bought it new, if that wasn't clear. 
Sorry if I went above and beyond your knowledge of computers. The reason why I suggest a BIOS reset is because it would set everything back to default. If you cant locate the reset for teh BIOS you could also select to set the bios back to default in the bios itself which is usually an option. However a manual reset by jumper, push button on main board, or removal of 2032 battery and reinsertion of it is a guaranteed reset back to default.

What do you have for hardware such as CPU, RAM, and Motherboard make/models.

Example of my system specs of system I am currently on:

CPU = Athlon 64 x2 4450B 2.3 Ghz
RAM = 4GB Corsair DDR2 800Mhz XMS2
Motherboard = Biostar MCP6PB M2+I found the reset option in the BIOS, but I wasn't sure what effect it would have on the computer so I decided to not mess with it.

I actually posted my specs in the attachment and added more info about the cpu. I didn't want a bunch of text and I didn't see an option for adding "click to reveal text" so I just threw into an attachment.

Well, I never mentioned it, though. I'll fix that now.
EDIT: well, nevermind, I can't fix it. Here are the basics:
      Operating System: Windows 8.1 Pro 64-bit
      CPU: Intel Core i7 3770 3.40GHz    Ivy Bridge 22nm Technology
      RAM:  8.00GB Dual-Channel DDR3 666MHz (9-9-9-24)     
      Motherboard: ASRock Z75 Pro3 (CPUSocket) 
      Graphics: 2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 960 (EVGA) 
    The i7 3770 will automatically overclock itself up to 3.9GHz if it needs it and is running cool enough to do so, what you are seeing here is standard operation of the CPU from the factory.Thanks Camerongray for info on the auto-overclock for that CPU. I wasnt familiar with that feature of the i7 to automatically overclock itself.

Looks like once he gets his cooling ( damaged heatsink mounts ) resolved he should be all set then in regards to Quote

Using Task Manager while I'm playing a game, I can see it stays around 3.74 GHz, but the average temperature can reach 80 degrees Celsius and at that point I exit the game.

Hi guys
My laptop's Vga entrance is not working and I WANT to connect my SCREEN using Hdmi. The thing is that my screen only has Vga so today I bought an Hdmi to Dvi adapter and I'm connecting it to a Dvi to Vga adapter and then I'm connecting it to my Vga screen.  You can see an image I attached with all this pieces. 

As I connect all these together, I don't get any SIGNAL on my laptop and nothing changes. Is this supposed to work or am I doing some mistake?

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Search Google for:
images of DVI
And find lost of things LIKE what you might have. (attached)

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]The VGA->DVI adapter works because DVI supports analog SIGNALS. It is possible to send the same signals that are in a VGA connector over a DVI connector.

The DVI->HDMI adapter works because HDMI supports Digital DVI signalling. It is possible to send a Digital DVI signal over HDMI.

Basically, the DVI->HDMI adapter requires digital information from the DVI plug but there isn't any so you don't get any output.

If you want to get a HDMI output from a VGA source you'll  need a device designed to do so. They usually consist of a powered box with the discrete logic necessary to digitize the analog VGA signal, allowing you to plug the VGA input on one side and then connect the HDMI output to your device.What BC describes is available from Walmart and other stores.
http://www.walmart.com/c/kp/vga-to-hdmi-converters


About $45 and it gets power from the USB.

Hi, I GOT an Asus laptop and a while ago the display went off.. I think thats because of an virus or something. I tried to format it with windows 10 : was using the HDMI output as external display on my beamer but during the installation the display of the beamer also dissapeared. I think that the SOFTWARE of the videocard had been removed.

So now I dont have any display (monitor or beamer) and WANT to continue the installation.

Can anyone HELP me fix this problem?
SOMEONE?Why did you PUT Win 10 on it ? ?...did you re-install all drivers which is needed whenever you do a re-install ? ?What model Asus laptop is it ? It's a Asus F75A.

I wanted to format it.

I have three computers all with 30 GB hard drives.  Two desk top, one lap top.  What would be the max that you would want to fill up the hard drive before if could mess with the computer operation?

Thanks,

DuffyMy rule of thumb is 15% of the total drive should remain free space.

So for a 30 G HDD it should be a minimum of about 5 or 6 G....

HDD's are relatively inexpensive these days. Upgrade.   Quote

My rule of thumb is 15% of the total drive should remain free space.

So for a 30 G HDD it should be a minimum of about 5 or 6 G....

HDD's are relatively inexpensive these days. Upgrade.  

Hey Everybody,

I'm new to this FORUM, so any HELP you could offer would be appreciated.

A couple weeks AGO, my monitor would randomly shut off during computer use. I had no new hardware. It just started.

I have a:

Several year old, yet upgraded Dell 4600
ATI Radeon x700 Graphics Card AGP 256mb
1 GB Ram
I could provide more info if necessary.

I switched the monitors...same issue. I switched my video card to an older NVidea 128 card I have. It WORKED fine, yet I couldn't play the games I did with my other card.

After searching the internet I figured the problem could be my several years old 250 watt power supply. Maybe it was failing. I borrowed a 500 watt and a 400 watt power supplies.

Neither of them are fixing the problem. Now the computer starts yet the monitor doesn't, no matter what power supply, monitor, or video card I use.

I have no idea what's wrong, unless it's something with the mother board itself...which I hope isn't the case.

Thanks.
It actually sounds like that new vid card is failing.
Do you get any other graphics issues in other programs ? ?

Yes, I SUSPECTED the same.  Everyone I talked to said that that was very unlikely though.  

Plus, I'm now getting the problem with both video cards...

Thanks.Whoa they are both doing it now ? ?

It very well may be a power issue. Dell PSU's are different though. You sometimes cannot use just a stock PSU...

Have you entered your service tag info at Dell's site to do some more checking ? ?

I am a novice to computer building but I'm trying to learn. I have a Compaq 5000 that I aquired as my first PROJECT box. I think the H.D has been formated. When I power it up it doesn't POST just the Compaq splash screen with a blinking cursor in the upper right corner. Tried all the keys that they say should get me into the BIOs such as F5, F10, Tab, Esc, Ctrl, and Shift and nothing works. Can any body HELP?My Compaq USES F10

If you are looking at the splash screen you can't just press F10 and expect to enter BIOS...it's a timing thing :

With the computer turned off, hold down the F10 key while starting the computer.
You may see "Keyboard Error" etc...just ignore and continue holding.
When you hear "TONE" release.
In a few moments you will see page 1 of your Bios setup.

BTW, if you get a HALT at the Compaq splash screen, chances are very good that your HD is completely wiped, including the hidden Compaq partition.
I think I even tried that too. Still nothing, but I will try again to be sure.

Thanks.

I ordered a ATI powered X300 128MB card to install in my Compaq SR1930NX desktop

I installed and booted with the new video card connected. At first it would not recognize the card (no video) so I disconnected the cable off the video card and reconnected it back to the onboard video.

Reboot, hit F1 set up and chose PCI-E as primary video adapter, reconnected the cable to the video card and rebooted. This time there is video.

So far good to go.

I powered down for the night and rebooted the next morning. Again, I get no video. I disconnect the cable from the video card, and reseated the PCI-E card. Reconnected the cable to the video card and rebooted.

Still no video, I figure it's the video card.

Returned the video card and and RECEIVED a new one in the mail.

Installed the replacement video card and I get the same situation as above. No video from card.

Since my computer is still under warranty, I initiated a CHAT with HP TECH support and went through the steps I took.

Tech says to update BIOS and gave me a LINK. Link is a newer bios version but only fixes USB Card
Reader support but does not mention specifically a PCI-E slot fix.

Downloaded BIOS and flashed.
Rebooted and it seems to work.

Power down for the night
Reboot the next morning and no video coming from video card.
Disconnect cable and reconnected it back to on board checked F1 set up and primary video adapter is still set to PCI-E but video only shows when monitor is plugged to onboard video.

It seems like the computer is reverting back to onboard video everytime the computer is powered down.

Next,

I uninstalled all video drivers and booted up. It seemed to work until I powered down again.

I'm starting to think it has to do with a Compaq partition that has all the recovery files in it.

I think the partition somehow restores the default onboard video settings when it doesn't see the onboard video drivers.

I try to explore the recovery partition but a lock icon apprears, when I right click to explore, It just shows a warning about how the files are needed for recovery and do not delete blah blah blah. I can't view the folder. I even tried "show hidden files and folders" but I'm still locked out.

I posted on HP/ Compaq forum support and was asked to disable onboard video in device manager. I checked device manager and dont see a tab for it. under the display adapter tab, only the onboard video shows but no onboard video.

Any SUGGESTIONS?

Thanks

No matter what kind of keyboard I add/ try I cannot use the 10 key number pad. Some parts of the numberpad like the up arrow=8 right arrow=6 down arrow=2 and left arrow=4 work fine as does the enter button, the /,*,-,and+ also work! But not the numbers.

It's not a NUMLOCK issue EITHER!

Very frustrating and slow to have to type numbers USING the numbers on the regular part of the keyboard.

I've looked for drivers and have been to the troubleshooting area's of the different keyboard manufacturers websites and still no luck.

Is it a BIOS issue?  What am I overlooking?? Please, any thoughts???So, in other words, your number pad simply will not type numbers.  Sure sounds like a  Num Lock problem.  Are you absolutely sure you have Num Lock on?  Have you tried toggling it off and on?  

Have you tried both PS/2 and USB mice?  

Take a look at this: http://www.kbalertz.com/kb_894513.aspx .  It may have a clue to your problem.  Does your Print Screen work?  Your Insert key?"Is it a BIOS issue?"

Yes, I think it may be.
Have you entered your BIOS setup and verified that Numlock is set to on?

Boot Up Numlock Status
This function defines the keyboard's number pad as number KEYS or arrow keys. If it its set at on the number keys will be activated, if it is set at off the arrow keys will be activated.

Sound familiar ?

This is my NEPHEW's computer,so I don't KNOW everything about it.He thought the 40 Gig hard drive was dying because it kept shutting down after about 10 minutes. I checked both fans and they are clean and running.Now it will start but hard drive makes no sounds and monitor reads "video cable connected?". I bought new hard drive same type and size, but it is still doing same thing.I removed new hard drive and just for the heck of it tried old hard drive, it started but when I tried to use AVG Free virus it immediately shut down. Now neither hard drive will start. Any suggestions. The computer is a Gigabyte with a New motherboard(Gigabyte GA-81865GME-775). It has a dual core CPU support-2 512MB PC3200?400MHz DDR Memory.It has 400W Max Hercules switching power SUPPLY.

Processor type:Intel® Core™2 Duo Processor T6600,2.20 GHz, 2 MB L2 Cache, 800 MHz FSB
Memory:4GB DDR3 1066 MHz,Supports up to 8 GB DDR3 memory
HARD Disk:SATA Hard Disk Drive 500 GB 7200 rpm

It really comes down to how small you want to go, if you don't mind losing most of your expansion slots you could go down to the ITX level with a case such as a BitFenix Prodigy.  Alternatively MicroATX may be a decent compromise between expandability and size.

I wouldn't bother selling your GPU just yet, chances are you'll be able to find an ITX/MicroATX case that will fit a 760 without issue.  Your cooler may be a bit big so you will need to figure this out once you decide on a case.

I want:

a very small case with a handle.

I want it to be as small possible with all the parts I have, there is not going to be any more expansion, It's cool to hear though that I can keep the gtx 760 even if it's 21.84cm long.

edit: I found one 2nd hand http://www.2dehands.be/computer-game-consoles/computer-onderdelen/behuizingen-kasten/bitfenix-prodigy-black-mini-itx-case-239226936.html

What mobo would you recommend?

Looks good!  The Prodigy can take video cards up to 320mm in length - You may need to remove the top hard drive cage to fit this in but even then you will still have 2 3.5" bays as well as several 2.5" bays.

As far as the motherboard goes, something like the Asus Z97I-PLUS or the Gigabyte GA-Z97N-WIFI would both be good options.  If you want to use WiFi I'd recommend getting a board with it built in since you won't have a spare PCI-E slot for a dedicated wireless card.

Can anyone tell me what the numbers and LETTERS mean in the page setup of printers, (headers and footers) you can change umn to get the printer to print different STUFF; i am using lexmark x1150 and i e 6.0  - thanksWell, part of that coding is obviously Page 1 of n, where n in the total number of pages.  And, the rest of it is fairly clear, too, if you just observe the pattern when you  do a Print Preview.  What do you see?  Well, assuming you have the default coding in your setup, you see the title of the page at the upper left, Page 1 of n in the upper right, and the URL at the lower left of the page.  Right?  So, that's what the coding GENERATES.  

Frankly, I THINK leaving it alone would be best.  What, EXACTLY, do you want to print in the headers and footers?

my mikoni webcam makes a screeching siren like sound when connected to another webcam. why and what can I do ?What is your OS?
What model Mikomi are you using?
When you say that you are connecting to another webcam, you mean online, correct?os? er whats that? sorry I am so thick, but I am TRYING! I mean when my web cam connects to my granchildrens web cam. We both hear the noise which is deafening but if I mute her microphone it stops. We then have to sign to each other and that defeats the object!  :-/Sorry, OS is "Operating System".  Windows 98, Windows XP, ETC.
I'd like to know the model of the webcam.  Is it an SN9C103 by any chance?windows xp and yes thats the  model why? is it a COMMON problen mat?Just a lucky guess.
Actually, I was looking around for info, and I think I found you posting on another forum.  Heh.

Mikomi has some of the worst support I've seen.  I can't even FIND an official site or any contact information.  But we'll see if we can somehow get this figured out for you.  First, let's see if you're missing any drivers...

1.  Right-click on My Computer and go to Properties.
2.  Click on the Hardware tab.
3.  Click on the Device Manager button.  This will open Device Manager.
4.  Go through the list and look for anything with a yellow ? or ! next to it.  In particular, look at Disk drives, Imaging devices, and Universal Serial Bus controllers.
5.  Let me know if you find anything with a yellow icon.Thank you Chris. I will do as you say when I get home. I am at work now but will let you know how I go on. Thanks again for the help.No problemo.  I've got to get a bit of rest and then go to class, but I'll definitely check back to see what the status is.ok Chris i have done as instructed but no yellow indicators show up. Could this mean that its not my web cam but theirs that is causing the noise do you think?   Quote

- - -
 We both hear the noise which is deafening but if I mute her microphone it stops. We then have to sign to each other and that defeats the object!  :-/

Quote

- - -
 We both hear the noise which is deafening but if I mute her microphone it stops. We then have to sign to each other and that defeats the object!  :-/

Can you describe this part in more detail?

You mute her microphone?    Her mic is on her end, so how do you mute it?

Some of this is sounding (no pun intended) like a feedback problem.
CBMatt:   Is feedback possible?

Yes, feedback is very possible and could be playing a role here.  But it's hard to know for certain.  

If it is feedback, we'll have to see if we can help Reuben isolate the source.  I was thinking that incorrect drivers might be the culprit, but it doesn't seem to be the case.  A reinstallation (which I was leaning towards) might be pointless here.  Another likely possibility is that the webcam is just defective.  Reuben, if your webcam is still new, I hope you have the receipt or that it's still under warranty...just in case.

The feedback has to be being broadcast from her end...

this doesn't neccessarily mean she can hear it, only those on the recieving end of her broadcast.

I RECENTLY got a new HP Pavilion a1700n with a 250GB hard drive. It's formated down to 226GB, and when I first got it, it had about 208GB free space. I installed AIM, Yahoo browser, iTunes, Spysweeper and Norton antivirus, and I copied no more than 6 GB's of music from CD's and my mp3 player, and the hard drive only has 179GB's left. I have no idea how so much space could have been taken up.  :-?System Restore points if this is XP...Agreed.  If you're running XP, then that sounds about right for System Restore points.  Is XP your OS?No, Vista.You might check your virtual memory settings, too.  That gets INCLUDED in the TOTAL space used, at least by Win XP.ok, now i have 167GB's. I haven't downloaded anything, or installed anything, I just ran norton anti-virus, and spysweeper, and nothing came up. There was a HP auto-update but that couldn't have taken up 8 gig's Quote

You might [highlight]check your virtual memory settings[/highlight], too.  That gets included in the total space used, at least by Win XP.

System Restore points if this is XP...

how do I do that?

My XP OEM master hard drive C:/ D:/,but after adding the XP 2nd hard drive K:/L:/ set to slave device mgr. says, most all the XP files,folders,documents are there as to be WORKING. What I like to know when I choose a media player to open from its folder listing all I get is more folders info about the media folder selection & with no media player to play for all my document music files. Can I make this work within its slave drive hard drive or do I excopy what files/folder/documents/programs I need to the master hard drive before it will operate when open ? I noticed that most all the files/folders & more  are on the slave drive ,but are shown in a different type of code sample:13bru65_s84owner. I click properties to get a better idea whats on them, but I dont really see much more details info on what I need to make the right selection choice,maybe? Hope there is a easier way to extract exactly what I need to help retrive & use active  programs from my recently added 2nd slave hard drive You open Media player from the C: drive...then open the media files from whatever storage drive.there is a media player on the master XP 07' HP hard drive C/D: ,but there should be a Dell Dj jukebox Music-match program & music files on the other 2nd slave hard drive L/K:which I recently added from another expired 07' emachine desktop PC. When I try to open any files/folders all I can get is more open files about the file itself with hiddin type files as: Wdce54_Y6E44o1dr9_owner  Both master & slave partiction hard drives are mtr or mtb bootable are working properly. Somewhat confusing when you see it but feel very close on sloving this . (similar to going in circles)  Programs are not designed to be able to be simply connected to a different PC and then run, you need to perform a clean install on the machine you plan on running it on.Responding to your PM in here as I don't help in PMs:
Quote

You said, that it would be best to just format the slave drive, because it came from my other XP PC. I recently bought a sata/ide converter to usb that was design to extract hard drive files,folders,documents & ECT. from my Slave HD & copy it to my Master HD. Problem is that I still not sure whats on all those ____________owner files I see loaded on the Slave HD ? It will be hard for myself to do since I have loaded such large mass of collectible music files that I spent so much time on saving ! Just all my music files is all I really WANT off this 80GB sata Slave HD & this makes myself hard-headed just to give up & re-format the HD. If I do a re-format & partiction the Slave HD do I have to use a boot ultility disc or & add XP back to the HD before or after re-formatting ?  I have of heard some other third -party & free clone,copy software other than Windows excopy to exract or copy from Slave HD to the Master HD , but not sure which is best for myself  to use 

i've been acquiring the parts to upgrade my system and finally pulled them all together today and installed them, the most notable change being swapping out both my motherboard and cpu, and now my computer won't even start. I followed all the directions that were included with the motherboard/cpu and supplemented them with a how-to that i found online. I have double- and triple-checked all my connections and everything seems to be sound. when i plug in and turn on my psu, the green SB PWR LED on the motherboard lights up, indicating that it's getting power, but when i go to turn the computer on my cpu fan and rear fan start to spin for a split second and then stop and NOTHING further happens.

components are:
-Asus m2n-e sli socket am2 nvidia nforce 500 sli mcp atx amd motherboard
-AMD Athlon 64 X2 5200+ Windsor 2.6GHz 2 x 1MB L2 Cache Socket AM2 Processor
-Kingston HyperX 1GB 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Desktop Memory
-BFG Tech BFGR79256GSOCE GeForce 7900GS 256MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 Video Card
-HIPER HPU-4B580-MS ATX12V v2.2 580W Power Supply 100 - 120V

as i said before, the mobo and cpu, as well as the ram and vid card, are new, the psu i installed about a month and a half ago and had not had any problems with it. my hard drive, floppy drive, and cd/dvd drive were all remnants from my previous build and i simply reconnected them to the new board.

this is my first time installing a new cpu/mobo, but everything went smoothly according to the directions so i wasn't expecting this to happen, can anyone help?

i had posted this on another forum last night and gotten a few responses, leading me to recheck all my connections again, disconnect everything except for the cpu, psu, and ram, check to make sure that my psu connections were correct, and still nothing has happened. my motherboard/processor are not the same socket type as my previous ones so i cannot test against them, does anyone have anything else i can try or at this point do i assume that i have a dud part in the works?the connectors for the power switch and the reset switch on some ASUS boards are fitted with a pin space between them, it is often overlooked when pushing the connector onto the pins, I have seen a few where they were placed close together, worth a check.
also have you fitted the extra 12volt power four pin connector to the motherboard and the one wh1ch goes on the graphics card. Quote

the connectors for the power switch and the reset switch on some ASUS boards are fitted with a pin space between them, it is often overlooked when pushing the connector onto the pins, I have seen a few where they were placed close together, worth a check.
also have you fitted the extra 12volt power four pin connector to the motherboard and the one wh1ch goes on the graphics card.

Do you have another PSU you can temporarily swap in there to see if this is the issue ? ?
The one you listed seemed to get good reviews so i'm not convinced it is the problem but you never know.
Also did you remember to use thermal compound/pad when assembling the CPU ? ?

I TURNED on my computer today and the first thing that happened was a notification telling me that my amd graphics card could be updated. During downloading, I restarted my computer. When my computer restarted I went through troubleshooting and it reinstalled what needed to be. Now my 2nd monitor doesn't work. When I go to screen resolution, I can SEE that my main monitor and my 2nd monitor are DETECTED, but when I try to "extend the desktop to the display" and hit accept, it will always go back to disconnect this display. Does anybody have a solution to my problem? Also both my monitors are connected to one graphics card. I don't know if this matters but my 2nd monitor is a Hyundai L90D and my main is a HP S2031.

 

 

 I ran a troubleshoot and it says MICROSOFT Teredo Adapter #2 is not working. Everytime i let troubleshoot try its solution of installing w/e is needs to, it fails. I don't know if this has an effect. Troubleshooting also found a problem with my PnP device (which is my Hyundai L90D monitor i assume), but that's all it says.Was this an official AMD update or one from Microsoft?

I'd reinstall the driver MANUALLY through AMD's site for your video card. By the way which video card is this exactly and what OS as well?

can i install a sata300 HDD on to a mobo that has sata2Yes. It will run at the SATA 2 SPEED though.

Amother ALTERNATIVE would be a SATA 3 CONTROLLER card...

Hello,

I have had this computer for a LITTLE while and the graphics card was very bad and old (NVS 700, I think).
I want to upgrade to the Geforce GTX 780 TI but what I want to know is, will my computer be able to handle it and will it be balanced?

My CPU is Intel I7 - 3770k 3.4GHZ and my PSU is only 350 watts (I believe).

The new GPU requires 500 watts, if I were to GET a new PSU would I need to CHANGE anything? I don't want my computer to blow up. 

I just want to know if this GPU will work well with my processor, thanks.It will work with your CPU fine but YES, you will need a new power supply.  Something in the 550w to 650w range would be ideal from a decent brand such as XFX, Seasonic, Corsair (avoid the VS line), EVGA (G2 or B2 lines).etc.I just extreme outer PSU calculator (http://extreme.outervision.com/PSUEngine) for the two basic elements of your system (CPU  and graphics card) and I got 405 W minimum, recommended 455W, which means that I'd get something in the range SUGGESTED by camerongray.

You aren't going to damage anything by using an overpowered PSU [except your wallet] unless something is defective because your system won't take more than needs from the PSU even if the PSU can deliver more.  Check that your case will have enough room in it to take the PSU.  I have PSU's that wouldn't fit properly because of overlapping ridges eg around the mains I/P with cut-out in the case, and also my case has a shelf above the PSU which prevents the holes in some PSU's lining up with those in the case etc, etc.  If you can, get an engineering drawing of the PSU and verify that against your case.

Dumb_Question
22.July.2015

Hi everyone,
When printing to a Lexmark x860de from MS EXCEL 2013, there is strange issue.
When the spreadsheet is scaled to FIT into 1 column, the preview shows a tiny printout and the pages become hundreds.
I have used the latest driver but the issue stays.

Anyone has similar problem and solution?
Thank you. Quote

When the spreadsheet is scaled to fit into 1 column,

Is there a printer that will PRINT (or have to OPTION to) with low to no INK?LASER printer.

Hello.  I posted and got a lot of help around December then went a differnt way for his GIFT.  He still wants to upgrade for his Bday.  I would like to keep a budget around $300 could go as high as 4 but I would rather not.  He want to make his more of a "Gamer"..This is the system we are building on.

Sons computer.  The one I would like to upgrade.

Moniter specs:


Acer
Model
S275HL bmii (UM.HS5AA.001)
Cabinet Color
Black

Display
Screen Size
27"
LED Backlight
Yes
Widescreen
Yes
Recommended Resolution
1920 x 1080
Refresh Rate
60Hz
Viewing Angle
178° (H) / 178° (V)
Pixel Pitch
0.3114mm
Display Colors
16.7 Million
Brightness
250 cd/m2
Contrast Ratio
ACM 100,000,000:1 (1000:1)
RESPONSE Time
6ms (GTG)
Panel
IPS

Connectivity
Input Video Compatibility
Analog RGB, Digital
Connectors
D-sub, HDMI
D-Sub
1
DVI
No
HDMI
2
DisplayPort
No

Power
Complies with
ENERGY STAR
Power Supply
100 - 240 VAC, 50/60Hz
Power Consumption
Energystar Off (typ.): 0.5W
Energystar Sleep (typ.): 0.5W
Energystar On (typ.): 36W

Computer specs:
HP ENVY h8-1540t
Operating System
Windows 8 Professional (64-bit)
DISPLAY
Monitor
No
Monitor Features
N/A
MOTHERBOARD
Chipset
Intel X79 Express
RAM
RAM Type
DDR3 SODIMM
RAM Capacity
10 GB
Preloaded Memory
DDR3-1333
PROCESSOR
Processor Model
Intel Core-i7 3820
Processor Type
Quad Core
Frequency
3.6 GHz
Cache
10.0 MB
HARD DRIVE
Interface
SATA
Memory Storage
2000 GB
RPM
7200
GRAPHICS
Video Card
GeForce GT 640
Sound Card
Integrated
COMMUNICATIONS
Wi-Fi
Yes (Type: 802.11b/g/n)
Bluetooth
No
Infrared
No
Card Reader
No
Modem
No
More Connections
PCI Express: 3
STURCTURE
Casing
Tower
Dimensions (WxHxD)
6.88 in x 16.22 in x 16.34 in
Color
Black
OTHER
Optical Drive
SuperMulti DVD Burner
Power Supply
460 W
Ports
15-in-1 multimedia card reader + Top I/O (2 USB 3.0 + 1 headphone jack + 1 microphone jack) + Front I/O (2 USB 2.0)
Camera
No
Microphone
Yes
Accessories
USB standard Keyboard, Mouse, TV Tuner


Thanks in advance
BryanThe key thing that stands out is that while that machine has an extremely powerful CPU, the graphics card is pretty low end.  I'd HIGHLY recommend upgrading this with a GTX 960 or 970 as this would drastically improve the gaming performance.

The only tricky thing with this video card is that you MAY need to upgrade your power supply to power it.  Would you be able to let us know the make and model of the PSU in the machine currently - There will be a sticker somewhere on it inside the PC with a model number.Camerongray,
Doing an upgrade on this computer will not be easy.

You might consider buying a newer unit and selling the old computer.  Quote from: Geek-9pm on July 10, 2015, 07:12:15 PM

Doing an upgrade on this computer will not be easy.

Hello guys
please can SOMEONE show me where i can download samsung np305v5a schematic. I don't have a CREDIT card but all those i found ONLINE require payment.Contact Samsung directly...What do you need the schematic for?  I doubt Samsung would release that information to anyone apart from authorized SERVICE centres.  What are you trying to do?I have a laptop that i am trying to diagnose and hopefully bring to LIFE.

I was running a Symantec Norton full-system scan. I make the computer so it doesn't sleep or dim. Maybe about 2 hours and 2.8 million items scanned (maybe 2 million), the hard drive goes up to at least 6,000 RPM. I was so scared SOMETHING was going to happen, I canceled the scan and shut down the computer. I don't know what happened, maybe it scanned a 2GB file or something that was writing data to the disk while it was scanning it. I don't know. Can anybody tell me what happened??!?!?!?!

PS: Sorry for posting so much, in just having so many problems and errors.Hard drives do not CHANGE their spindle speed while running. That sounds LIKE perhaps a CPU or system FAN speedign up to keep the system cool.The OP should provide more info.
More likely the speed changes is from the CD/DVD drive.
Modern hard drives maintain speed very closely. If the hard drive did accelerate, it would damage something and fail very badly.

I saw these when seeing what KIND of fans I have.  I don't know what they are and they don't have wires going to or from them. I am just wondering what they are and what they do.



Security device. Clasified. Quote from: Geek-9pm on April 01, 2015, 10:02:28 PM

Security device. Clasified.

What do you mean?

Security device. Clasified.

Hello

I got one of these, (docking station) to try and retrieve some files from the hd of my non operating desk top. I installed the hd and hooked up the station and got nothing. I do not have a 3.0 usb port to plug the unit into, but it says it is COMPATIBLE with 2.0.   On my win 8 laptop nothing pops up on screen. Going to control panel I can locate an icon for the docking station, click it and then have an option to browse the files on storage device. When I click that option, a faded button comes up, (I think it was e:drive), but, it does not react to the cursor/mouse.

I followed the hook up procedure correctly, so, does this mean the hd is inoperable? Hooking it up to a win 7 vaio all in one, stuff does auto pop up on the screen, (new device, dl driver etc) but in the end, the result is the same, a button that does not react. How can I tell if this hd is what made the desk top crash, (I had assumed it was the operating sytems inability to update, which people told me WOULD eventually cause a crash)? Does anyone think the hd is bad or am I missing some step in trying to access it with the docking station?   Thanks for any input  I would borrow an external HDD enclosure....this will tell you if it's the docking station gone bad...and also may help getting your datat back...

Was this unit new...or used ? ?The docking station is brand new. The manual unfortunately only illustrates how to install the hd and hook it up to a usb port.

hooked to my win 8 laptop, nothing. On recent tries, (this time using a 2.5 hd from a problematic hp laptop ), it does not even show as an unresponsive icon. On the vaio all in one, (win 7) it does react, but not getting anywhere there either. Where can I find more info on how to use this device? How does a  hdd enclosure differ from a docking station?update...took the original HDD to the local OFFICE depot, they confirmed that it is a working unit that is able to load up it's data. They said it is not at the heart of my pc's problem. Can anyone tell me how I can definitively determine if this docking station has a problem, or point me in a direction?   ThanksThe docking station has a problem...return it.Update....got the replacement docking station. Apparently the small dent in the original ones box, was caused by a fatal blow during shipping, because the new one works great!  Not a very big deal to access material on the HDD when the station is working properly.

I was able to recover the most SOUGHT after (by me) program on it,(it was originally dl to the HDD , so I just went to the dl folder and dl again). I am now wondering about the myriad of other programs that had been installed on the old pc, are programs generally recoverable through this kind of HDD ACCESSING? If so, any tips on how to proceed?No...any programs on there would have to be installed on the new drive for them to work...

The custom carp on this build is gonna wind up more than the components in the build...

Just sayin...

Hey everyone,
I have a problem with my Laptop (HP Compaq 510)
Since yesterday evening my laptop is suddenly not charging. The orange color light did not light up and the laptop did not show the charging symbol. Now the battery is DEAD and I obviously can't use the laptop. I removed the battery and TRIED starting it but that does not work EITHER. There can't be a problem with the charger because it was working perfectly until yesterday evening. The battery however is somewhat old and its battery life was continually decreasing (it recently could run only for 30-45 mins after a full charge ).
What could be the problem? should I replace the battery or could there be some other problem for the laptop to suddenly stop charging??
THANK you for your help.
Akeed.When batteries GET that bad it needs replaced...the laptop should run on A/C however with the battery reemoved.

There is a spot on the motherboard yes I know. That 12V is ALREADY taken for another fan. I know I need a SATA power cable connected to a 4 PIN 12v little SQUARE NOT STRIP but I  can't find a MODULE like that so where can I find one. It's a mini I TX computer

I just picked up a known, non working Hp Pavilion, P7 1235, for parts. Pretty nice looking rig, so I thought I would check it out to see what its malfunction was, I feel sure it the motherboard, all fans come on, can hear the hard drive, but have no video from integrated ports or from a known working video card. No beeps.
 
It has the MSI MS-7778 (Jasmine) motherboard. What goes wrong with the board to cause this, and could it be repaired at home.

I have re-capped several boards with success...so, I would try and take it on, if its possible.

thank youThere is no easy way to know if the capacitors are bad, unless  if is visible.
There are other things that  make moboss go bad. A mobo can have hundreds of feed thru points  trance. Any one could be damaged and not be visible.
Rad this:
http://www.sparepartswarehouse.com/blog/post/common-causes-of-motherboard-failure.aspx
This might suggest one should try these tricks before giving up. That is true. Bu it does not mean most failures can be resolved.
Quote

When a laptop mainboard failure occurs, it is a very labor-intensive task to replace or repair it. One should also weigh the cost of replacement/repair against the cost of a new laptop, as replacing a motherboard is often one of the most costly repairs you can make.

You mean "bootable" ....

Sorry, spell checker wants it to be bookable.

my ac jack in my HP pavillion ze4900 laptop was broken so i REPLACED it with a new one, the new ac jack works fine and now my laptop charges but when i click the power button the computer turns off after 2 or 3 seconds, do you KNOW what the problem might be? Does it do it whether plugged in or not? Did you PERSONALLY install this new jack?it DOESNT matter if its plugged in or not it still does that, yeah i didThat seems to be the only variable, so I would say that is the #1 suspect.nvm, fixed it, it was just a not well connected heatsink, thanks for the helpYou didn't say anything about a heatsink, but glad you are all fixed up.

Our HP Color Laserjet 4500 N has begun to "bleed" cyan on every page we print ... big smears of it! (this clunker is a hand-me-down from another office)

I THOUGHT I would simply change the toner, but unless the toner actually runs out, I cannot figure out how to do it.

Any suggestions on a way to bypass the usual prompts?

Thank you!Did you try changing your ink cartraige? I am aware that they have 2 ink cartraiges, color and black ink. Replace the color one and post back the result.

Sorry we didn't reply to your other post a you posted a few HOURS AGO but double posting was not nesassary. We would of got to it.Do you have the manual for the printer?  It should tell you how to remove the toner cartridge.

Alan <><

Didn’t have much luck with resolving partially deleted printer ISSUE. So I backup all my critical files and fdisked my hard drive.  I guess God is mad at me, now I can’t install the WindowsXP home edition, I get “file I386\MTKRNLMP.exe COULD not be loaded.
The error code 7.”

I realize there are d/loades out there, but it does me no help at this time. Does anybody have SUGGESTION as to what I need to do(other then to hang myself)
Thanks, JohnD. 
There aren't exactly DLoads out there...is this a genuine copy of XP Home ? ?This is not a case of God being mad.It's Uncle Billy again.

Read------>ThisYou may want to try another CD-Rom /writer,or whatever you have.
Your optical drive may be failing to read the disk.

Also,In reference to patios post.You may have a bad install disk.

Could you try another one? Perhaps someone has one you could
borrow to try that.

Sometimes you can MAKE a copy of your( legal) install disk and
the copy will work where the original would not.

If you tried the Microsoft site I recommended,and that didn't help,
the above information is all I can think of.

I Answer Questions After I Read The Newspaper!COL

help me please.... i have to make a bootable disk using a floppy in a dos setting.... i need to install a NETWORK driver on it.. the sis 900... i don't know how... if you can help me.... please do.How large a file is that driver?  Have you confirmed that the bootable floppy will HOLD all the standard files it needs plus the NIC driver?it want hold all the files.... the disk doesnt have enough space to do all that.am i just *censored* out of luck!!!WELL, I don't know.  It may depend on exactly what you're trying to ACCOMPLISH.  Why do you need the SIS 900 driver on a bootable disk?  Download the zip file from http://www.sis.com/download/ it contains readme's for installation on all OS's. This file will not fit onto a floppy, but will tell you in one of the readme's how to do it.

Is it necessary to install it from a floppy? as the file also contains exe files to install in all other OS's eg Windows 95/98/ME/NT/2000/XP and even Vista!Is this a homework project? Quote from: GX1_Man on April 24, 2007, 01:52:55 PM

Is this a homework project?

This might also apply to other HP Scanners. 

When the light bar flashes (blinks) on your HP53xxC scanner after you power it up, this is a subtle clue to you, the user that the Power On Self Test (POST) has failed.  If this happens, you will not be able to connect the scanner to your computer via the USB interface PORT on the scanner.  In computer speak: "Your computer will not enumerate this USB peripheral".  This is because the scanner's USB port is not activated, because once the scanner's POST fails, the scanner's hardware initialization sequence has failed.  This is mentioned a little bit on this web page:

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?lc=en&cc=us&docname=nps05129&product=58381&dlc=en&lang=en

Now, the hard-core among you may not be satisfied with this explanation.  Particularly after you surf the internet and discover that various folk are complaining of this problem but are reporting different and unique flash sequences.  Aha! You are probably thinking, the crippled HP scanner in its own helpless and pathetic way is trying to communicate with me, to tell me what is wrong with it.  Something akin to "Help! I've fallen and I can't get up".

Well you would be correct.  I came to the same conclusion, so I innocently logged onto the HP tech support chat line to ask a simple question: "What does 6 flashes mean?"

This was my first mistake.  The HP support guy was not programmed to answer that question.  Instead, and in spite of my repeated objections, we did the following:

1) Re-installed the driver
2) Re-booted the Scanner
3) Tried a different USB Cable
4) UPGRADED the driver from the file you can get here: http://ftp.hp.com/pub/scanners/software/sj669mu.exe
5) Tried a different computer and USB cable and installed driver and patch from scratch

Each time I pointed out to the HP tech that this was pointless, since his own webpage says the POST has failed and the USB port would not likely enumerate on a failed POST.  As I say, he was not programmed to assimilate this data.

While we were chatting, I also e-mailed HP tech support the same problem just in case there was a CHANCE to make contact with intelligent life.  Fifteen minutes later I got an e-mail back from a real sharp HP guy with all secret knowledge.  I share this here for your benefit and edification.

By the way, the POST error 6 that I had turned out to be the power supply voltage was too low.  For some reason this makes the optical scan bar raise an error flag.  I replaced the power cube, voltage went form 18V to 24V and presto, everything worked.  A lot of people seem to get error 5 or error 7 (5 flashes, pause, 5 flashes).  This means that the light bar's transportation lock is activated.  Just push the plastic switch on the side of the scanner to the unlocked position and power the scanner off for 60 seconds.

========================== Scanjet 5300C/5370C POST Diagnostic Codes ========================

(Look at the light bar on the scanner and count the number of flashes between each pause)

Number of blinks/ flashes        Failure                        Action
 
1                                   SRAM test failed               Exchange scanner
2                                   DRAM test failed               Exchange scanner
3                                   DARK calibration analog error  Exchange scanner
- if accompanied by a 2117 error, try the solutions on bps03134 before exchanging the scanner.

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?lc=en&cc=us&dlc=en&product=58381&lang=en&docname=bps03134
                                               
4                                   Dark calibration digital error Exchange scanner
5                                   Home sensor failure OR        Unlock carriage and power cycle
                                    Carriage locked                   scanner
6                                   Optical error                      Exchange scanner.
7                                   Chassis lock                     
Unlock carriage and power cycle scanner - if problem persists, exchange scanner.
8                                   USB test failed                 
Remove cable and power cycle scanner, if problem persists, exchange scanner.
9                                   ADF Paper Path sensor failed     
Move the paper load lever to the number 1 position. Remove the paper, power cycle scanner, and place paper in ADF. Move the paper load lever to the number 2 position and rescan. If problem persists, exchange ADF.
10                                  ADF paper jam                     
Search for paper jam, remove paper if necessary, power cycle scanner, and rescan. If problem persists, exchange ADF.

Hello, I am new here and sorry to start off crying for help.

I have a msi gigabyte ga z77 mother BOARD and the COMPUTER does not boot up, and constantly beeps 6 times over and over.

I have tried looking this up online and it had different results, some saying it a keyboard issue (I tried booting without keyboard) and some said hard drive issue (I tried booting without connecting to a hdd) and memory card (I tried RESEATING both of my cards on different slots) .

None worked, and I would appreciate any type of help. Thank you.https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wPjnEucS9RU

This is the VIDEO.. Ignore the first four beeps , I started recording midbeep, and sorry for the HEAVY breathing sound my roommate was asleep. :/

Main ISSUE: Monitor screens flickers then turns red then goes black but not anymore, Once turned on the monitor it's intense color red and goes black after 1-2 seconds or less.

Let me further give you details below about how and when it happened further relative issues.

First of all i have to mention that, I am using a DELL 1545 Laptop, And it's screen card or something inside got damaged because of a kitten. Ok this is not the point,The point is so we used an old monitor (Flatron L1730S) to duplicate the screen the laptop to the monitor. It was all working fine it have been working for many months now. Then one night i was playing a videogame and left it open. went away to do something, then i came back seeing the screen black and the light that indicates the power is whether open or closed is opened. I tried lowering the brightness and it helped for a while. It stayed then after a day the INCIDENT occurs again. And the windows got damaged. So we FIND it struggling to make a NEW windows WITHOUT a monitor,somehow we managed to get it and suddenly the monitor's working all good. then the day after it happened again. But it flickers and goes a bit red then went black, then i tried changing the (Flatron F-Engine) From normal to Movie. It worked it stayed, then after a few hours it came back. It doesnt seem to be a problem with the wire that connects from the laptop to the monitor but maybe the monitor itself, or the power wire that connects from the monitor to the plug. I am also guessing the monitor is overheated? Help please.The monitor is on it's last legs...swap another one on there to confirm...

I am looking for a new sound system for my rig.  I currently have 4 speakers + a woofer but 2 of the speakers no longer work and the STATIC coming off this thing is annoying.

I'm looking for a similar setup in the $50 - $100 range

Any suggestions?

My system:

Windows XP sp3
AMD MMX  2.6 GHz
2.8 GB memory
2x Nvidia GeForce 8800 GT
Sound card (will be willing to swap out) SB Audigy Audio (6400)
2 HD 300 GB; 700 GB
What kind of wattage output are you looking for?

As for $100 or less is really tight for anything that can drive the sound good and LOUD without distortion with 4 speakers and 1 woofer for surround sound with a good range and plenty of bass etc.Well, I'm not looking to break glass here.  I just wondered if there was a good system within the $100 budget range.  It's just me in my small computer room.I like Logitech's quality. Havent had any issues with them. This setup here is $60 and ok for good sound in a small area.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/logitech-z506-5-1-surround-sound-speakers-6-piece-black/1215025.p?id=1218236333141&skuId=1215025Thanks Dave.  I'm assuming that system works with my Audigy card and with Windows XP.

My wife thanks you too!  She never knows what to get me for Xmas.



The audio system connects to your system via a 3.5mm audio plug. The same type of plug that is seen on this linked cable. The unit you buy whichever model it may be should come with all cables etc.

http://www.sfcable.com/10A3-12.html

I'm building a PC and I STUCK in between if I should get the EVGA GTX 970 or the Gigabyte GEFORCE GTX 970?

Links:
http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=04G-P4-2974-KR
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5209#ovmy VOTE is Gigabyte FTWThanks Also agree with Gigabyte, although both are GOOD cards imo.

I NEED to clean the dust out of my desk top computer. I have been advised to take the top off, go outside and use compressed air to blow the dust out. I was told I could get a can of compressed air from *censored* SMITH but that is not so.Compressed/canned air is available at many LARGE RETAILERS...where else have you looked ? ?We tried *censored* Smith Suggestions welcome. Or can a hair driver we used without electrostatics possibly harming the computer.I have found that we can get cans of Dust Off on eBay to do the job. PROBLEM solved. Quote from: denisaf on December 19, 2014, 03:06:55 AM

I have found that we can get cans of Dust Off on eBay to do the job. Problem solved.

Hi,
i have been very interested in online gaming recently and wanted to host my own Minecraft server for my friends to join on occasion.
But i have been on tons of websites and followed all their instructions basically all i had to do was download the server itself from minecraft's website and open a port in my router to 25565. But EVERY TIME i do it the port stays closed and i know  have port forwarded correctly.
all theirs work and mine never does so i have come to the conclusion that it it my router to blame i think there are some hidden firewall options in there somewhere i have a Netgear WGR614v9 i have been on the routers settings page and there isn't a tab for firewall. I know there was one once because all the websites i go on say to go to firewall rules but i don't have that so i assume that theirs is outdated (because i have the latest firmware) If there is anyone out there that has experience with routers and modems or server stuff your help would be greatly appreciated.

Everything i have done to fix this myself and not worked:
Turn off windows firewall and add java and minecraft to exeption list
changed some security settings in router
follow nearly every help video there is on this topic...

If you need anymore info from please ask and i'll do my best to tell you i really want this to work

EDIT: i think i posted this in the wrong section Admins or Mods feel free to move if necessary sorry ISP's have been getting worse for port blocking. If you are able to use a different port and it works, then its likely that the ISP blocked that port. I have had to do this for Apache Servers as well as other servers using ports that are black listed by ISP's. A port that I use for Apache servers that I havent had any problems with is port 8077 for example.Surely that cannot be the only Port it works on...check the site for more info.Thanks for the suggestions, i'll try them -Update-
still nothing. i think the routers firewall is kicking in a stopping incoming ip's but on my specific router i can not turn off or adjust the firewall my model is netgear WGR614v9 and the firmware is 1.0.15 i'm trying to find an earlier version. Because there used to be a tabs called firewall rules and services and i have been told that those are what i need to fix to make all this work. but with the version i have those options are not there. i went to the netgear website and the lowest firmware they have is the one i got. (the latest firmware hasn't got it either) making these servers is meant to be easy but iv'e been fighting with my router for years now.
So my QUESTIONS are:
Is there a way for me to get older version of firmware on a 3rd party website
does anyone know maybe how to disable firewall on my current firmwareI'd flash it with DD-WRT, BUT, it looks like they are still working on making a firmware flash for your model so thats not available right now.

 I dont trust firmware from other that the manufacturer or DD-WRT as for someone could offer so-called older versions etc that allow for monkey in the MIDDLE and other types of hijacking etc with hidden features ADDED by a rogue programmer.

Routers are cheap these days, I'd BUY a new one for like $30 etc.Yeah i will actually buy a new one the one i want is a bit expensive but i need the extra signal strength and this one should be okay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TP-LINK-Archer-C7-AC1750-Wireless-Dual-Band-Gigabit-Router-Brand-New-Pickup-OK-/261248202807?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item3cd39b3837

Besides GPU?What GRAPHICS Devices a COMPUTER USES other than GPU?

This question is seriously lacking depth of details and some may question if its a REAL question or not. If this is a real question, here is a list of devices I have worked with that are Graphics Related Devices

Scanner ( used by graphic artists to digitize hand drawn images to fill with color etc with photoshop etc. )
KVM
Video Extender
Pantone Monitor Color Calibrator http://www.pantone.com/pages/pantone/category.aspx?ca=2We are going to need a lot more information...But his EXAM is tomorrow morning...

Hi,

I need some help with a Toshiba LAPTOP hard drive I'm trying to retreive data from. Long story short, my Toshiba laptop died a few weeks ago, I pulled the Toshiba HD from the laptop and bought a HD usb connecting cable . I plugged it into a Dell laptop that I had and was able to pull files, however after the 3rd time I can no longer connect. Whenever I plug in the HD to the Dell laptop I receive the message that the HD cannot be read and needs to be formatted. I click on do not format, but then the message keeps popping up, so I just disconnect the USB.

Is there a jumper setting on this hard drive that I need to set it to slave? Is there any other thoughts that you may have that can help? Thanks in advance.

Here are the details of the HD:
Toshiba MK5055GSXN
HD2H28 B
500GB - 54rpm
 If the drive is CORRUPT or damaged you can have this happen where the SYSTEM wants to reformat the drive.

Were you able to RETRIEVE all the data you NEEDED off of this drive before this issue popped up?


There is a tool I use called GetDataBack NTFS that is able to recover files from a drive like yours, but the software is not free. I have yet to find a free tool that is able to correct for problems like this. You can use the trial version of this software to see if it can recover your files first and then when you are able to view your files you would have to pay the fee to register it in order to be able to transfer the files from this drive to a healthy drive. I bought this software about 8 years ago and it has worked on 4 out of 5 drives that were crashed to recover data, 2 of them had the clunk of death, but because they still spun, it was able to read the data with the sweeping of the head and assemble files and recover them to a healthy drive.

https://www.runtime.org/data-recovery-software.htmThanks for the suggestion.

I was able to pull a few files, but thinking this would be a permanent solution I didn't think it would crap out so suddenly. Thus I did not pull everything I needed off the hard drive. In fact it was my main laptop so there is a ton of stuff I still need from it.

Other than using this program, do you think the hard drive crapped out during one of my sessions where I plugged it into the Dell? I'm thinking if I plug it into another laptop it may work? Obviously you've been through this, do you think this is isolated to this Dell laptop?
David's solution is probably the best...doesn't matter how the drive failed...at this point it's irrelevant...
If you want the data pay for the app.

Help, I don't know what to do.
I wanted to make a dual boot (linux over windows). First time everything was okay but I didn't manage to install it(it was too LATE).
Today when I tried again to install linux but my laptop doesn't recognize my USB ! It's visible in computer, but not in boot menu, On other laptops it works What is make/model of the laptop having issues with USB boot?

 Some older laptops dont have USB boot option, however maybe its just that you NEED to change the boot order in the BIOS to boot from USB first, CD/DVD drive second, and then HDD third.How did you BUILD this boot disk ? ?
You cannot simply COPY a Linux DISTRO to a flash drive and expect it to boot...

I would go for the HIGHER end, lower wattage XTR over the higher wattage but slightly lower end XXX.

The XTR is a great unit and 650w is still plenty for your system.Thanks Mate What do you think about the XFX Pro Series Black Edition 850W should I go for that or would it be an OVERKILL?Or XFX Pro Series Black Edition 850W ?850w would be totally overkill, stick with the 650w XTR, even that is way more than you'll need.Would 650 Be enough with the SLI configuration and keep in mind this is the rig Im planning to get https://pcpartpicker.com/user/basel.arafat/saved/#savedbuild_1300397
If I add another GTX 980 would this be enough 650 be enough?For SLI you would need around 800w however I would never recommend SLI, A single video card LIKE that is going to be more than enough for most users and you are pretty much always better to get the best single card you can afford.

Also, any reason why you are going for an AMD FX?  For gaming you would be better off with some sort of Intel Core i5.

Have you tried a different monitor yet to know that its definitely the monitor that is troubled? As for sometimes it can be monitor cable or even video card related.

Hi.

I have an Acer TRAVELMATE 5530 series and WHENEVER I turn the computer on it makes it to the log in screen then the screen goes black and the on button flashes ORANGE. I have to wait for 7 flashes until I can turn it on again then SELECT resume windows.  It only works after I have done this.

PLEASE can you help? could be a problem with the battery or charger.

Hi,

I hope you are all well.

My laptop (Asus ROG G-750JX] Recently updated to Window 8.1, and now I have 4 or 5 key that are not working on my keyboard.  If I use an external Usb keyboard, it works fine, but so far, the 's' key, the 'del' key, the number 0, 3,7 and 5 keys aren't working.  I've been looking for an answer online, and apparently it has to do with a driver ISSUE.  Can anyone help me fix this?  It's EXTREMELY ANNOYING!

ThanksAre your drivers for the keyboard up to date then?The OP needs to get the drivers from the web site of manufacturer.
In this case it is:
http://www.asus.com/support/
The site may ask for:
•  the model number
• product Serial Number

The issue does not mean the keyboard is bad.
A new driver might be needed for WINDOWS 8.1 on that laptop. The OP will have to search and see if it is driver or firmware issue. Some MOBILE  devices have had firmware troubles, possibly  some ASUS devices.



It's not drivers...it's the keyboard.... Quote from: patio on November 19, 2014, 10:08:22 PM

It's not drivers...it's the keyboard....