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I bought Logitech S120 2.0 Multimedia Speakers and not long after plugging them in this insanely loud noise started coming from the speakers ,it goes away when  turn off the speakers and leave them off for 30 mins, they only GIVE me 30 mins of use before they start MAKING the noise.it NEVER happened with a previous pair of which I no longer have or remember the brand.i TALKED to Logitech customer support and they said without hesitation that its a defect they are WELL aware of and they will replace them,after putting me through a bunch of bs they replaced them and the exact same thing happened with the new pair .obviously they have no idea what they are even talking about.plug those speakers on another pc if its not behaving same its means your pc speaker port,sound card or sound driver got broken

This desk top PC with Windows 7 has unexpectedly shut down on several occasions without sign of a power surge. It has REBOOTED alright. I suspect it shut down due to overheating because of accumulation of dust. If this is so, what should I do to eliminate the problem?Clean out the dust.
And check to SEE if all fans are turning.Does that mean I have to take the top off or can I check the fan from outside. I also understand that I should not use a vacuum cleaners as the static could cause problems in the computer systems.Get several cans of compressed air and use those.  Yes to best clean they system you will need to remove the system lid.  Do NOT turn the cans upside down always use them face up.  Clean the machine in a well VENTILATED area (outside).  Hold the fans still to prevent them from spinning.

DO NOT remove the heat sinks just blow the dust off of them.  Blow the power supply out as well.

Unplug the system and GROUND yourself to prevent a static DISCHARGE from you that can even brick they system.Thanks for that advice Rustys.

Operating System
   Windows 8.1 64-bit
CPU
   AMD A4/A6   
   Kabini 28nm Technology
RAM
   8.00GB Single-Channel DDR3 665MHz (9-9-10-24)
Motherboard
   Gateway SX2185 (P0)
Graphics
   E2041 ([email protected])
   512MB ATI AMD Radeon HD 8240 (Acer Incorporated [ALI])

If I can use any parts from this one and that would help I would CERTAINLY be willing to do that though I know it would void my warranty if I messed it up.
Apparently I found out my processor sucks and if I replace it that means I have to replace the motherboard. Is it worth it? Though a friend says I should keep this one for my surveys and GPT because if I get a quality computer don't do any of that stuff on it.

The only thing I want it for is Sims 3 and the expansions but afraid to get more expansions unless my processor was better. Also I found a work at home job that requires a better processor so if I can game and work too that'd be great.

I don't know what stores would do that. I looked in the yellow pages but am still confused. I don't know if I could build my own. It sounds rather complicated.


My BUDGET is 600 unless PayPal decides to get me back my 300. I would think that shouldn't be too hard because Sims 3 seemed to work fine on my old (___) which was about 600 at Best Buy but I don't know if I can get the same computer when that was years ago?



How familiar are you with computers and their hardware? Do you want to build a new PC, buy a new PC, or replacing components on an existing one? $600 for a "gaming" PC is a bit low, ALTHOUGH if it is just for casual/lighter gaming that's doable. Many things to consider.

If you plan on replacing parts or building a computer you should do plenty of RESEARCH and learn as much as possible before you build; same with replacing parts yourself. buying a new one requires you to have some knowledge but less than building.The one thing I can say is graphics cards are a very important part to gaming and other "visual" things. Then you want a CPU that won't bottleneck your GPU. You want a mobo that is compatible with those 2 things. You want a decent amount of RAM (I would say 4+Gb). A large enough HDD is important but unless you buy a really small one its hard to overuse. Newegg.com and PCpartpicker are two WEBSITES I use to do research and look for some of the best prices. Personally I would go Intel but AMD works fine too. AMD is cheaper usually but does have quite a large fanbase.

Yesterday while playing LOL, my cursor RANDOMLY started to shake. I tried turning off my wireless mouse and re-plugging usb to see if it was mouse. It still kept shaking so I figured out that it was my touch pad. I put a little pressure on my touch pad and the cursor stops shaking but as soon as i lift my finger it starts shaking again. I found a setting to turn off touch pad when I have another mouse plugged in and this made my mouse work fine, so I am sure something is wrong with the touch pad. How could I fix my touch pad? My Caps Lock is also blinking and I have no clue what that means.

Laptop: http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c03930731&cc=us&dlc=en&lc=enTurn off the touchpad when gaming.That's what I am doing at the moment but that doesn't fix my touch pad. I have only had this laptop for like 1 month and barely use touch pad and its already broken?Return it under Warranty then...If you're lucky, it may not be a hardware problem at all. A common cause for this is a little dust or dirt build up in the lens area underneath the mouse or even on the touchpad itself. MAKE sure this is all clean first (use a dry cloth for the touchpad). Cheap mouse pads can cause these symptoms too (poor design which doesn't reflect properly.)

If the problem continues, and the computer is still under warranty, the definately go through the correct channels to get it to an authorized service AGENT. Opening it yourself or taking it to the local PC shop will void the warranty every time - and all computer manufacturers are very harsh on this - for the simple reason that most shops don't employ anyone with formal IT QUALIFICATIONS.

Hello, I need help. I'm currently buying a PC from seperate PARTS and I ASKED the same shop to build that pc. I didn't buy the DVD drive, becaise I have one at my home. Does this mb support DVD R/RW  those flat plugs for optical drives?? Yes.It didnt It has SATA connectors...TAKE ANOTHER look... Quote from: patio on October 05, 2014, 11:02:28 AM

It has SATA connectors...take another look...

I have done some reasearch and realize that the hp pro 3400 mt has some  compatibility issues with the gtx 7xx series and  amd r9/r7 series cards. I want to ask a few questions in hope that i can find a solution for upgrading for both myself and other hp pro 3400 mt users. If you have a similar model and or problem and have a solution then by all means  plz reply.

1. does anybody know any CONFIMED mid to high range video cards that work in this model?

2. does anybody know if the hp mobo is a rebranded mobo by foxxconn or some other company  that could have an identical board to update the bios. (hp stops at rev 7.xx)

3. does anyone know the particular reason that these cards have compatibility issues? (why  or why not supported)

Note: I know about psu requirements, what I am referring to is mobo and gpu compatibility.

that way perhaps someone could look for cards that have a particular "feature", "instructions set", "version", or "component" that is compatible.

4. Are there any work arounds that i may have not come across?

 

If you have answers to any of these questions of found similar solutions with another model, plz state that as well. Thankyou.Of the 3400 series it comes in quite a variety of options from weak Celeron CPU's to far better Core i7 heavy processing power. Hopefully your system has a Core i3 or better to be considering this video card paired with this system. Many would probably suggest the Core i5 as a starting point with this video card than the Core i3, but I have seen friends computers with the Core i3 Dual-Core and they play the games well, but the CPU is very busy at doing so as well. The Core i5 Quad-Core is far better for games.  Here is a link to your system series that shows all the different options it came in for CPU's and at least 3 different motherboards. http://www8.hp.com/h20195/v2/GetDocument.aspx?docname=c04123249   Also I have counted at least 3 different motherboards used for this product line. Knowing which specific CPU you have and which specific motherboard would help in trying to find the info that you need if its out there to be found?

Usually a video card issue with a high end card and motherboard having issues supporting it is due to the chipset for the PCI Express BUS being not up to par with the video card. Most video cards can compensate with motherboards that ( lag ) with their PCI Express BUS, however due to this, the performance of a high end card slows to compensate with timing of the PCI-E Bus.

I have run into issues in the past long ago with AGP Bus video cards and wanting 8x AGP and the motherboard only supporting 4x, and the simple fix was to migrate my CPU and RAM over to a motherboard that supported 8x AGP Bus. This is a problem people run into trying to convert an off the shelf brand computer that was sold as a low cost home PC which is repurposed by the customer to be a gaming rig. You run into issues where the motherboards were never really INTENDED to be a high end gaming rig and you can run into issues.

Most of the time however a power supply upgrade and proper airflow=cooling and a affordable RAM upgrade can convert most off the shelf computers into a gaming rig running a good GPU with a middle range CPU to support the games that for example may have a minimum system requirement of a 4-core ( quadcore ) CPU of 2.5Ghz or better etc.

You may find that if you want that computer to support the video card of your choice that you have your heart set out to buy, that you will end up having to replace the low cost motherboard with a better motherboard. This can usually be done for less than $100 unless your going all out for the best of the best motherboard to swap the CPU and RAM over to. You also THOUGH would have to find a mATX motherboard that would fit this case, and finally comes the fun of mapping out what pins are what for the front panel and matching them up with the different pinout of the replacement motherboard in which HP has a single connector that has Power LED, HDD LED, Power Switch, and (sometimes, but rare these days ) PC Speaker. And you end up having to pop the pins connected to the wires out and insert them in a different arrangement into the single connector to match up to the new motherboard pinout for the front panel connections or even easier, cut the front panel wiring out of an old computer case that has the universal layout in which everything is individualized for 2 pin connectors for Power LED, HDD LED, and Power Switch, and a 4 pin with 2 used for the now days rare PC Speaker connection since most motherboards have on board piezo speakers for the beeps. * I have converted a number of HP, Dell, Compaq, and other brand cases over to universal front panel wiring to TAKE any motherboard quickly without having to mess with remapping pins with future board upgrades. I have one case that I have had since 2003 that still works well on its 2nd upgrade, which is probably its last upgrade since I favor full ATX boards more than the mATX boards that have limitations for memory expansion and additional add on cards such as dual video card support is best with ATX boards.Thanks for your answer Dave. I ended up getting an r9 270 and taking a risk to see if it works. It does! The exact model is "Radeon XFX R9-270A-CDFC" So I can confirm that this card works with my mobo. I wouldn't recommend getting any card that is larger in size than this because fitting it in was quite a pain.

The mobo is using the h61 chipset. I have an i5 2300 with 4 gb ram. As to the exact model of the mobo, I am not sure... 3dmark reads it as a foxconn board (2abf). I am using a cx-600 watt power supply.

Yeah, the pre-manufactured mobo's can be risky business for upgrades. Perhaps a clue but i read SOMEWHERE that some of the h61 chipsets only provided 60w(or a little less) of power on the pci-express slot. I saw a few posts about a 750ti not working, which might make sense since its max tdp is 60w. I'm not sure if other cards that require a power connector would be affected or not. Do cards with power connectors still draw power from the  pci-e slot? So I can't confirm that but that's a theory of mine.

Quote

Yeah, the pre-manufactured mobo's can be risky business for upgrades. Perhaps a clue but i read somewhere that some of the h61 chipsets only provided 60w(or a little less) of power on the pci-express slot. I saw a few posts about a 750ti not working, which might make sense since its max tdp is 60w. I'm not sure if other cards that require a power connector would be affected or not. Do cards with power connectors still draw power from the  pci-e slot? So I can't confirm that but that's a theory of mine.

-Removing the RAMs (just the first piece, then just the other, then both - triggering the long BIOS beep)

heyy there GUYS im LOOKING for some thing similar to a kmv switch that WOULD ALLOW me easily to CHANGE monitors from 1 pc ... a kmv swicht will allow multiple computers to switch between 1 screen im looking for something that would allow me to switch between displays easerly


many thanks  So you only want to switch displays, but each system has its own keyboard and mouse?

no I want to use 1 pc to screen mutlip[le screen  so i dont need to worry about multiple mouse and key-bored, the best way i

Hey.  My brother desires a laptop upgrade soon, mainly because he never found 4 hours of battery life to be nearly enough for him.  We're in Canada, in the Greater Toronto area, and it can either be local or online purchase.  What he currently has is an Acer-V3 15.6" laptop with an Intel i3-3110M, intel hd4000 graphics, 1366x768 resolution, 750gb 5400rpm hdd.

So here's what would be preferred to have in his next laptop:
-  Price: Less than $1000, preferably in the ~$600-700 range
-  Battery life:  Decent, at least close to enough to last through a full college day if possible
-  Usage: On battery: Microsoft Office, and wifi surfing.
              On wall power: office, wifi surfing, online gaming like runescape and playing a few old games such as the roller coaster TYCOON series (which still WORKS fine on windows 8 )
-  Operating System: Windows 8
-  Screen Size: 14" or 15.6"
-  Screen resolution:  1600x900 or 1920x1080 (1366x768 wasn't enough)
-  Touchscreen: Optional, but would be a nice thing to have with the windows 8 interface (and would encourage me to use it for playing taptiles on occasionally =p)
-  Processor: Intel, preferably an i5 (normal or ulv)
-  RAM: Two slots (I already got 2 4gb ddr3 1600mhz sticks on spare that could be used for an upgrade to 8gb)
-  Msata support:  Yes *

*  Storage-wise, I'm thinking of putting in 750gb worth of SSD storage.  Or in other words, a $200 512gb crucial mx100 2.5" and a $100 240gb crucial m500 msata.  Yes, 512gb isn't enough for him because he also downloads large files such as movies and doesn't want to rely on external drives for his storage
*  I guess he could also save $200 and simply leave the mechanical drive in and just use the 240gb msata drive as the OS drive too, but I'm not sure if the tradeoff of battery life, vibration, moving parts, and more need to worry about putting some documents on the second drive (instead of leaving programs+documents+os on first and using the 240gb secondary drive as just a large downloads drive) is worth it

Any ideas?

PS:  We've been already started to research and found the Lenovo U430, and the Lenovo Flex 2 as initial possibilites, however I ditched the U430 idea because it lacks any upgradability, and I ditched the Flex idea because it doesn't have an MSATA slot.Games and Good/Long Battery Life do not go hand in hand. Such as I bought a Toshiba Netbook back in 2009 that has an Intel Atom 1.66Ghz CPU and it will run over 9 hours at a measured draw of up to 13.5 watts if just checking e-mail and working on word documents, but when playing Diablo II on it, the battery life is drained down to about 3 to 3.5 hours and its pouring heat out the vent for the full time that the game is running.

When I get over 9 hours of use, the CPU is set to down clock from 1.66Ghz down to like 700Mhz when idle and the backlight of the display is set to be green energy efficient where its not super bright, but instead a dim setting to where its easy on your eyes but not an eye strain to read what you typed etc.

The solution you would want for a full college day of say 8 hours without it being required to be plugged into an outlet in a classroom is going to be not a very powerful laptop. The Core i3, i5, and i7's even if set up to speedstep to run under clocked when idle are electron hungry processors. You might be able to get 4.5 to 5 hours if not gaming with it constantly on with one that has a SSD drive to reduce the power consumption as much as possible, which is also set to shut off the backlight after 5 MINUTES of inactivity etc.

I am not aware of any laptops out there that can run a full 8+ hours with games just off of battery power, although if one was very crafty and didnt mind lugging around a special backpack with it, you could have some 12V sealed lead acid batteries with an inverter to plug your laptop into your backpack when the laptop battery runs low and this then would allow you to run the laptop at the same time that the laptop is charging off of the inverter that is making say 120 watts of 120VAC.

If you are looking for a laptop to last say 8 hours on battery only when in class when not running any CPU needy APPLICATIONS and no games, but also able to run games when plugged into an outlet say back at the dorm room, then there are some options out there, but in order for it to be a core i3, i5, or i7 you will have to have the power management heavily configured to pretty much put the computer into sleep mode when inactive for longer than 15 minutes so that your not burning through your battery life when the laptop is idle, but instead it suspends the laptop until its really needed to be interfaced with again in which it comes to life and can be used to stretch the battery life.

Link here is to my 5 year old laptop specs... not suggesting this model, but if you want something that runs for a full 8 hour or longer day on just battery power without it going to sleep, the processing power would be low like this one. I have since upgraded it to 2GB RAM and 90GB SSD which made it multitask better with more memory and almost an hour extra battery life with the SSD vs a mechanical 5400RPM 160GB HDD to spin and seek for data. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834114665 Quote from: DaveLembke on September 05, 2014, 01:48:24 PM

Games and Good/Long Battery Life do not go hand in hand. 

Such as I bought a Toshiba Netbook back in 2009 that has an Intel Atom 1.66Ghz CPU and it will run over 9 hours

The newest Intel Atom CPU's (Bay Trail series) are nothing like the older ones.  [the] Latest [Transformerbook] ones use the [Atom] Z3775

Focusing on the Ultra Low Voltage CPUs (Such as the i5 4200U) would also help battery life

I can certainly vouch for ThinkPads but the T530 is an older model (Ivy Bridge) and is very bulky.

Look at the modern Haswell ones like the T440 and T440s (I use the T440s) as they are small, lightweight, use current gen stuff and are very efficient. My T440s has both an internal 3 cell and a removable 6 cell battery in it which gives 11 hours of life with the i5 4300U, SSD and 8gb RAM. They also have the option of a 1080p IPS screen which I have in mine.

My Sandy Bridge laptop is only 3 years old & that's considered old.  Installed a Samsung SSD which really sped things up.  It gets 3 hrs on battery depending on what you're doing.  Still not really outdated.
http://www.notebookcheck.net/Review-HP-ProBook-4530s-Notebook.56747.0.html

...unless the cost savings are significant then it makes sense to get the newest generation stuff.

So when I print from the HP machine an ERROR message comes up "Printer Offline".  The printer is 'on' and in full working order.  To test, my Dell laptop prints first time, every time.  The error must be with the HP but havng made sure I have the latest drivers I know not what more to do.  I can solve the issue TEMPORARILY by uninstalling and re-installing the Epson via the Control Panel's printer section but the next time I want to print it has gone back to offline.

The problem STARTED suddenly and out of the blue.  Hep muchly appreciated.Hi

Are you USING wireless to connect to the printer ?

If it is wireless are you using the wireless access direct to the printer or is it connected somewhere else in the network say by using the usb port on the internet router ?

Are both computers connecting in the same way, not ONE using direct USB and the other wireless ?

My Windows 7 computer does not detect my new iPod Touch at all. When I PLUG it in it does make a little "blip" noise like t's connected but my computer does not do anything. I do not get an AutoRun box asking what I want to do. If I manually go into my CONTROL Panel and choose the option to "Find new devices" the iPod does not even appear as one of the devices to add. My iOS is the most up-to-date version and it does charge through the computer.Do you have another computer or cable to try to see if its the computer or the cable?

My brother had one of these and it had some issues. He fixed it by using a powered usb hub to power the device. For some reason his computer was able to connect and charge it, but communications wouldnt work until powered by an alternate device, so his power supply was probably enough to charge it, but when it was having to be powered and communicate, that drawed a few too many milli-amps and th connection wouldnt be made.Good evening funguy11 and welcome to CH

I have seen this happen to people also

I know you said that W7 did the "ding" when it was plugged in but nothing afterwards

There are a couple of things that I have DONE on different PC's to fix the issue

#1... Updating the iOS (but you did this)
#2... When you plug in the unit go into "device manager" is there any yellow ! if so "right click" on it and choose "UPDATE drivers" W7 may get and install it.
#3... Go to your PC / motherboard Manufacture and find UPDATED chipset drivers for your OS

Most of the time one of these do fix it, please let us know ho you make out, Mike

The title says it all...
On this Rackable Systems 2U server...





The CPU heat sink was easily found. The memory is to the left and below the CPU...
But what is the last heat sink for? There were ridiculously loud fans blowing air into it, so I removed them.
If the heat sink is for the graphics card, I would not NEED fans as loud as the ones ORIGINALLY there, hence I am not going to play games or something on a server computer.
So, what is the heat sink for? Also, the two fans originally pumped 24CFM of air each, will 13CFM per fan be enough to cool the heat sink?What is the model?
It is this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2U-32GB-RAM-SGI-RACKABLE-NAS-STORAGE-SERVER-2X-OPTERON-QUAD-CORE-2352-RAID-2TB-/140696037376

Specs from the description:
Powerfull 2U Rackable Systems (SGI) Compact Half Length NAS Network Attached Storage Server 2x Quad Core AMD Opteron 2352 2.11Ghz/core 32Gb ECC DDR2 RAM Memory 2TB Total Raw Storage (4x 500Gb) SATA 7200rpm Drives

PROCESSORS - 2x AMD Opteron 2352 64Bit Quad Core CPU's
CORES - Total 8 Physical Cores at 2.11Ghz per Core
MEMORY - 32Gb DDR2 ECC Registered RAM
STORAGE - 4x 500Gb SATA 7,200rpm Drives for a Total of 2000Gb (2TB) Raw Storage (Set as Hardware RAID 5 on built-in Motherboard SATA RAID Controller)
RAID - ON board Nvidia Nforce 6-Port SATA Controller (Hardware R0, R1, R10, R5 Capable)
BACKPLANE - 4Port Hot swap SATA with Trays
SYSTEM - Robust Flextronics / Arima Corporation NM46X dual processor Opteron 2nd Generation Multicore Server class Motherboard
IO CONTROLLER - Onboard 1x IDE + 1x Compact Floppy Port
ETHERNET - Integrated 2x Nvidia McP55 Gigabit 10/100/1000 LAN Adapters
VIDEO - Integrated ATI ES1000 16Mb Graphics Adapter
POWER - Rackable Systems Original 450Watt 1U Power Supply
OPTICAL DRIVE - N/A
RACKING - 2U Half Length 19" Rack Mountable Design
DIMENSIONS - 16" Deep, 17 1/2" Wide, 3 1/2" Tall
BRAND - Rackable Systems / SGI
SERVER - Other Onboard Flextronics/Arima NM46X Server Features
PORTS - 4x USB + 1x VGA + 1x Serial 9pin + 2x PS2 (Mouse & Keyboard) + 3x RJ45 (LAN) + 1x RJ45 Console

Item specifics
Condition:   
Seller refurbished: An item that has been restored to working order by the eBay seller or a third party not approved by ... Read more
Form Factor:   2U Rack-Mountable
Number of Drive Bays:   4
Brand:   Rackable Systems (SGI)
Interface:   eSATA   
RAID Levels:   5
Installed Storage Capacity:   2 TB   
Model:   Opteron Quad Corecould it be a cpu? - the board does have 2, and it looks like the right place

Like this one




Later

I believe it is CPU 2. Didn't you know there are 2? If I were you I would put those fans back quick! Didn't you read the spec?

2U 32GB RAM SGI RACKABLE NAS STORAGE SERVER 2X OPTERON QUAD CORE 2352 RAID 2TB

In fact from your other posts you already know this.

It looks like an Arima motherboard and here is a pic of one, model NM46X which is a dual Opteron board used in Rackable Systems equipment.

PDF manual

http://www.rioworks.com/Server/Download/Download/NM46X_V097.pdf



board layout





now follows an embarrassed silence...
Sorry, I was afk.
Thank you for the info. I will probably buy quieter fans for it...
The old fans pumped 24 CFM of air each, so that will be 48 CFM...
Would a pair of quieter fans at 13 CFM each do the job? Quote from: sarcasticphoenix on July 02, 2012, 01:53:46 PM

Sorry, I was afk.
Thank you for the info. I will probably buy quieter fans for it...
The old fans pumped 24 CFM of air each, so that will be 48 CFM...
Would a pair of quieter fans at 13 CFM each do the job?

Okay so this is getting to be very frustrating. Whenever I'm online, everything has audio -- Pop up ads, Youtube VIDEOS, movies, songs, etc. Offline, however, is a completely different STORY. I can't hear a thing COMING from my iTunes, nor can I from videos saved in my Libraries. I have so MANY movies saved on my computer, and it's driving me crazy that I can't watch them due to the audio! I have a DELL Inspiron N5110 with Core i5 and Windows 7. Does anyone have any idea on how to solve this problem? Thanks!Try reinstalling the audio driver or update them

Ok, this is one of those rare times when I'm asking for help instead of giving it here. 

I have an external USB Acer hard drive, 1 TB in size. Powered by an AC adapter. (I don't know the exact model number off the top of my head and I'm not at home. I'll get it later if necessary.)

The computer is my home computer (see the full specs to the left). It's running Windows 7 Home Premium.

Ok, here's the issue. Previous, I never needed to turn the drive off when booting. It never caused any problems. A couple weeks ago, we had a power outage for a few minutes (common here) while the computer was running, but as far as I know the hard drive wasn't in use at the time (although it was plugged in and turned on). Prior to the power outage, the computer would boot fine even with the drive plugged in and turned on.


However, since the outage, if I turn the computer on while the drive is powered on, I'll get to the Windows 7 loading screen and the computer will freeze there for about 5 minutes (the pulsating Windows logo freezes). If left alone, it will finally continue to load and the computer and drive will work normally. If I turn the drive off before booting the computer, Windows 7 will load normally and I can turn the drive on after Windows loads and it works fine.

All of the data on the drive seems fine. There are no issues with the drive once in Windows. I've tried scanning the drive for errors, but that came up clean. At this point, I want to avoid formatting the drive. There's about 750GB worth of data on it and I don't have enough room to relocate those files to format and see if that helps. I was wondering if any of you have any other SUGGESTIONS as to what might now be causing the drive to cause the loading of Windows to freeze like it is and what I might do to correct it without formatting it. It wasn't doing this prior to the outage and hasn't stopped doing it since.

There are no other issues with the computer. It runs perfectly except for this one little annoyance now.If the power outage was accompanied by a surge or spike then it is possible that some damage was caused, to the electronics in the external drive (or its power supply) or to the computer itself. Sometimes a power outage can be caused by a fairly drastic event such as lightning striking an overhead power wire or a short circuit or a switching surge,especially if you live in a rural area and/or your power lines are up on poles especially if you are or near the end of a long branch circuit.  Sometimes the damage is done not when the power goes but when it comes back. If the hard drive was plugged in and turned on then it is possible that Windows was doing some background stuff on it - file indexing, NTFS housekeeping, etc - even if you were not aware of any programs writing to, or reading from it. I would personally try to localize the fault by plugging the drive into another USB port on the same computer, into another computer if you have one, and seeing if the boot is affected. In the end if it was me and I decided the drive was the problem I might pony up for a new 2 TB external drive (they are always useful) and get my important data off the now suspect drive and relegate it to non-critical usage. Just my thoughts.
Like I said, the drive works perfectly, the data is all intact. I've tried switching ports already, forgot to mention that, but it still causes the boot to freeze for 5 minutes once the Windows logo appears. If it's turned on after booting, then it starts right up, gets recognized, and can be used in seconds like it should.

I don't have another Windows 7 system here, but I have a one running XP and a laptop with Vista. I'll try those and see what the results are.What about uninstalling the USB bus from device manager and then reinstalling?truenorthOk, here's what I've found:

Windows XP loaded like it normally does (in under a minute). No issues recognizing the drive immediately after boot and viewing everything on it.

However, Windows Vista isn't going so well. It's been almost 5 minutes now and I'm still waiting. The boot doesn't appear to freeze like it does with Windows 7, as the Windows Vista loading bar is still moving. However, it taking a long time to boot, much longer than usual like my Windows 7 system.

Quote from: truenorth on June 05, 2012, 09:39:21 AM

What about uninstalling the USB bus from device manager and then reinstalling?truenorth

Is the "indexing service" turned on in Vista ? ?
The fact it works fine in XP says it's Vista...not the drive itself.

Is the "indexing service" turned on in Vista ? ?
The fact it works fine in XP says it's Vista...not the drive itself.

from what I can gather the situation is this:

Windows 7 slow boot if drive connected
Vista     slow boot if drive connected
XP        normal boot whether drive connected or not


By default, on all three operating systems, all drives are indexed. Indexing can be disabled on a drive-by-drive basis, or globally for all drives.

Dear All,

I am new to the site and am in charge of computers at work, although apart from 'have you tried turning it off and on again' I'm not great with them!

One of our reception computers is on its way out - all the computer is used for is running our Practice Management Software - BASICALLY software that lets us make appointments and keep client records (the software is installed on the machine, but it is linked to a central server). It also needs Open Office, to open PDFs and go on the internet - that's it. 

I asked our Software supplier if we could buy a Acer Veriton N281G Atom S425 SFF Business Desktop PC - PS.VBGE3.035 Form Factor - Thin Client
Processor - D425 Intel Atom D425 - 1.8 GHz
RAM - 2 GB
Hard Drive - 320 GB
Graphics - Intel GMA 3150
Optical Drive - DVD Rewriter
Operating System - Windows 7 Professional
Warranty - 1 year warranty

The response I got from them was that the Acer was underpowered and they recommend getting a 'Dell Vostro 260 slim desktop (no monitor) running Windows 7 Professional 64 bit
Core i5-2400, 4GB DDR RAM, 320GB SATA Hard Drive, DVD+/-RW'

I understand the concept of the processing power, but can't see that what we use the computers for would need that much processing power? Bearing in mind that most of the computers in use at the moment are 5 to 6 years old.

Is it right what they are saying or are they just TRYING to get more money out of us? Are there any questions I can ask them to 'justify' why they are recommending that particular computer?

Any help would be gratefully appreciated.

Thanks

EmBD Quote

Is it right what they are saying or are they just trying to get more money out of us? Are there any questions I can ask them to 'justify' why they are recommending that particular computer?

Hello, i've been having a re-occuring problem with my pc. This error has only occured during gaming. Visual indication would be the screen freezing on a specific frame. Sound would indiciate a reptition/loop of the last half second of noise produced by the game. And for my pc case, i have a led that connects to the HDD that blinks to show HDD activity. When the freezing first starts, it would blink in a constant cycle, then a few moments later, the light would turn off, My screen would still be frozen, and the sound would not loop anymore, but only play the last sound genereated by the game.

Things I've done to try to troubleshoot;
1. Chckdsk (Using regular chkdsk in run will check to about 2nd or 3rd step, then it says errors found cannot run in read only mode.
2. chkdsk /f
3. Ran SEAGATE diag tools. Tests run: SMART check, Short drive self test, short generic test. All tests came back as PASSED
4. Right click My Pc -> Manage -> Disk Management -> Right-Click C drive -> Properties -> Error Checking -> Check Now. The test would not start till i rebooted (and i did so) I waited for the 5 step test to finish, and my regular boot up screen proceeded and i logged in.
*I've updated graphic card drivers, HDD firmware
PC SPECS:
Quad core Q9450
Seagate 500gb
bfg gts250
kingston 4gb ram
coolmaster 600W
Asus P5Q-E
Win Xp

Stats while play Red Faction Guerilla in windowed-widescreen
according to speedfan:
GPU: 59 C
System: 29 C
CPU: 47C
AUX: 30C
Temp: 59C
HDD: 27C
Core 0: 54C
Core 1: 51C
Core 2: 50 C
Core 3: 58 C
Core: 59 C


At idle:
GPU: 39 C
System: 29 C
CPU: 35C
AUX: 30C
Temp: 39C
HDD: 27C
Core 0: 43C
Core 1: 42C
Core 2: 39 C
Core 3: 44 C
Core: 38C

*I've tried to check for errors in event viewer, but nothing poitns to a freeze or shutdown


Any solutions?
Thanks 
     
Quick Update. I now have temp readings for the game I usually crash in
Left 4 Dead
Temps according to speed fan

Gpu: 64C
System: 28C
Cpu: 51C
Aux: 30C
Temp: 64C
HD0: 27C
Core0: 58C
Core1: 54C
Core2: 54C
Core3: 57C
Core: 61CWhen is the last time you cleaned the dust out of the inside of your rig? A dirty case can cause various strange problems. That it freezes on the same frame I don't think would be dust related, but could be. try a chkdsk /r.Did that, but still .
Update: I decided that the next time it freezes up, I'll wait for a while...
Today, when it freezed (During TF2) I decided to just SIT there. A while later I saw the LED light for my HDD blink and the sound came back for a split second then my pc restarted. Also , I additionally ran the Seagate Long Self Drive test
Any ideas?Update 2:
So BASICALLY after the restart of my pc I started doing what I regularly do. After I was done, I shut it down.

Next morning, I turn on my pc, boot up and everything was fine, but I recieved an additional dialog box saying my pc has recovered from a serious error (dont know why it came up, and if it should come up, shouldnt it have come up after the auto restart ?)
Heres the log in event viewer.

Source: System Error
Category: (102)
Event ID: 1003

Error code 000000ea, parameter1 88568b30, parameter2 89269208, parameter3 8907f110, parameter4 00000001.

In bytes:
0000: 53 79 73 74 65 6d 20 45   System E
0008: 72 72 6f 72 20 20 45 72   rror  Er
0010: 72 6f 72 20 63 6f 64 65   ror code
0018: 20 30 30 30 30 30 30 65    000000e
0020: 61 20 20 50 61 72 61 6d   a  Param
0028: 65 74 65 72 73 20 38 38   eters 88
0030: 35 36 38 62 33 30 2c 20   568b30,
0038: 38 39 32 36 39 32 30 38   89269208
0040: 2c 20 38 39 30 37 66 31   , 8907f1
0048: 31 30 2c 20 30 30 30 30   10, 0000
0050: 30 30 30 31               0001   
this has been my same experience with my home PC.
its strange that the hardware listed is so similar, but I have more to add.
I have replaced almost everything in my PC over the last 3 years.
so I had determined this must be related to virus or operating system problems.
so I saved up to give old Bill Gates more money for the latest release. Windows 7 Professional.

this was sure to be the Cure! here it is only Months later, and the system crashes more than ever.
dose anyone have a fix on this I cannot be the last one on the plannet experiencing this. Quote from: Asusequad4 on May 25, 2012, 06:54:28 AM

this has been my same experience with my home PC.
its strange that the hardware listed is so similar, but I have more to add.
I have replaced almost everything in my PC over the last 3 years.
so I had determined this must be related to virus or operating system problems.
so I saved up to give old Bill Gates more money for the latest release. Windows 7 Professional.

this was sure to be the Cure! here it is only Months later, and the system crashes more than ever.
dose anyone have a fix on this I cannot be the last one on the plannet experiencing this.

Hey GUYS, My desktop has not been starting up for the past one week. At first, I SUSPECT it was due the dust clumped up at the CPU HEAT sink. So I decided to clean it yet I still came out with same result - It was not still not firing up. From my observation, I'd noticed the PSU fan is not running but the PROCESSOR fan is. Any ideas or suggestions of what I should do? Thanks.  Borrow a working PSU of the same or greater wattage and swap it in there...you'll know overnite if thats it...

Most of the time the issue is a virus, or a equipment malfunction when removable items show up as folders like that under the C:

I have recently decided to buy a new 160G hard disk for my computer.  HOWEVER I found that my current 300W PSU did not have any spare connectors for this add in.  So I bought an Antec Truepower Trio 430W PSU.  I removed my old power supply and replaced it with the new one, plugged everything in, except the new hard DRIVE...just to test it.  Turned the power on, everything started and then died about 3 seconds later.  I was perplexed, I hadnt even turned on the soft switch on the chassis, then it did it again.  The computer turns on all the fans start going, then dies about 3 seconds later.  The cycle continued until i turned the PSU off and replaced it with my old one.  The system then worked FINE.  I was advised to update my BIOS so I did but the problem still exists.   I am wondering is it a hardware clash or is there a fault in the PSU itself.  Thanks for your help in advance, David.  SOUNDS like the PSU is either faulty or not compatible. I would return it, and buy one of these:

http://www.microdirect.co.uk/(2165)Hard-Disk-Drive-Power-Splitter-5-to-2x-5-RB511.aspx

if your new disk is SATA, you'll need one of these too:

http://www.microdirect.co.uk/(2931)Serial-ATA-power-converter-cable.aspx
I have contacted the supplier and will return it shortly.  Thanks very much for your advice.  Just for closure.  Returned PSU to my supplier who then tested the system.  They didn't find anything in the preliminary voltage test but gave me a replacement (same model) to try.  Brought it home plugged it in and it works like a charm.  Still don't know what the problem was but it was definitely that particular unit.  Thanks again.  thank you for the follow up. it contributes greatly to the forum.

I have an everest home report, let me know what parts you'll need. it is huge and will not fit on this post. Or i could email it all if need be.   Can someone tell me why I think my cpu is not runnin at 533 fsb like it say on the top of it.  I really do not know what to make of this huge report. Dimarrco
Over LAST 2-3 DAYS, I can see 5-6 different topics about your computer problems. Are they all tied up to the very same computer?
If so, you'll be better off, if you gather them all in one thread.Hello, I am new to this forum-info stuff on the web. yes this is about one computer that I just put together as a server. I thought that I should locate the problems in their particular catergory as it pertains to a certain problem. What do you suggest? I just need some help and need to know the proper places to post these.     I am dealing with one problem at a TIME as it arises. With all due respect to this forum and to you...either help those who come here and to other forums for help and support or just don't say anything. Your words come with no solution, so why are you wasting your time. Again I ask,What do you suggest? Thank you and have a great day. Dimarrco  to check what your CPU is running at, you can check in your BIOS or you can download CORE Temp.
your FSB and multiplier will be in the brackets under Frequency. Quote

Your words come with no solution, so why are you wasting your time.

  I am dealing with one problem at a time as it arises. With all due respect to this forum and to you...either help those who come here and to other forums for help and support or just don't say anything. Your words come with no solution, so why are you wasting your time

Basically, I'm trying to install WinXP Pro, but the PC keeps crashing during the
drive formatting stage. I tried SWAPPING the RAM module with another one, and
after crashing once, it finished formatting (so I'm not sure if it was just
luck, or if the new RAM made a difference), but setup said
it was unable to copy "driver.cab" (although I've recently used the
installation CD on other computers, and it worked just fine), and after pressing F3 to quit, the computer seemed to have a fit, where it rapidly turned off/booted up a few times before not booting up at all. Throughout all
this it has been quite rare that the computer actually boots up (and when it
doesn't, there aren't any beeps at all). Any idea what's causing the crashes
and failure to boot up? My specs, as well as a more verbose and complete
history of the problem, are as follows


Since I can't get into windows, I can't give you a DX diag, but from what I can
see in the case, my specs are:

HDD:
Maxtor STM3160212A
Motherboard: BIOStar nForce2 M7NCD
Original memory: VM 512MB DDR PC400
Current memory: Nanya 256MB DDR-333Mhz
PSU: FSP Group Ltd ATX-300
Video card: GeForce 4 MX440
CPU: Beyond that it's a P4, I can't say, due to an insane heatsink attachment
design making it pretty much impossible to get the heatsink off.

I recently received a PC with a number of problems. Originally it had WinXP Home installed on it, and was frequently freezing and then crashing a few minutes after starting up. I also got PNF List Corrupted and IRQL Not Less or Equal errors. Since I was intending to reformat the HDD to do a fresh install of XP Pro on it anyway (plus the previous owner had left his files on it), I decided to go ahead and do it. Setting the CD to boot first and then getting into the setup screen took several tries due to the crashing, which probably should have served as a bit of a warning not to do the format, but I guess I missed it. A short while after getting to the formatting stage, it crashed again. After several unsuccessful formats, I tried swapping the RAM. Unfortunately, it seemed to reset the boot sequence, and it wouldn't let me into the BIOS to change it, meaning that to get back into setup I have to unplug the HDD, wait for it to begin booting from CD, then quickly plug  the HDD back in, which probably isn't too good for it (also, when the HDD booted first, I just got an "NTLDR not found" error. Gee, NTLDR not found? I wonder why *that* could be ). After one more crash at 98% formatted, it finished, and I got the "driver.cab could not be copied" error I mentioned earlier. However, after pressing F3 to quit the computer seemed to have a fit where it rapidly turned off/booted up a few times before not booting up at all. Any idea what's causing the crashes and/or the failure to boot? One of my friends thought it might be the CPU overheating, but since the temp sensor said it was around 40C, that's probably not it. Swapping the RAM *seems* to have helped with the crashes, but it did nothing for the booting. I'm guessing the motherboard's faulty, but I'm hoping it isn't.A motherboard fault would be my guess. I'd try and rule the other hardware out by testing it in another machine if you have one spare.Borrow a KNOWN working PSU of the same or greater wattage and swap it in there to see if it will complete an install.
Next thing to check would be the drive...you should DLoad the free diagnostics from the manuf. site and run them.
Then you can DLoad and run MemTest to check the RAM...let it run at LEAST a few hours...

Clean that CD off with a soft lint free cloth as well...sounds like it has gotten a lot of use.It is most likely hardware, but just to cover all of the bases is that a real Windows CD that says Microsoft all over it?

Be sure and check that RAM as Patio said but do one stick at a time, then all together. www.memtest86.org.

There's a reason clone cartridges void your warranty.

If you're having trouble with them, I'd stop using them immediately and go back to original cartridges.

Wow, work for HP do you?  I just got rid of my Canon BJC 3000 after five years of use when the print head finally gave out - used the same set of cartridges with $30 worth of injectable refills over that period with no problems - just purchased an HP D4100 and bought an ink refill kit from www.ink-refills-ink.com for $63 which I expect will also last the life of the printer.

Yay for you.

God, I just love a good intellectual discussion!   Why don't you try Neh Neh Neh, Neh Neh.

This is my first time posting so go easy on me.

I have had the hardest time figuring out what the problem is with my GIRLFRIEND's computer. Every once in a while there will be a loud humming that comes from it. I checked the fan, CPU fan and disk drive. So I could only assume it is the hard drive. So after reading that the kind of noise I am experiencing could mean your hard drive is about to brick, I replaced it. Then mysteriously the noise came back. I had burrowed her hard drive and put it in my computer to transfer things and noticed that it never made the same sound it was making before. I really don't know where to go from here. Thanks for anything you guys can help me with.Bad hd's make a ticking sound, not a humming sound. Take the cover off the case and next time you hear the sound try to identify the source. And if it's an "electrical hum", it could be any number of things starting with the power supply.Could be the metal case resonating or "thrumming" I guess. When it's doing it, can you make the sound change by pressing the case gently? Is there a fan on the graphics card?

I have opened the case while it was making the noise and it is coming from the hard drive. I guess it could be called a ticking sound but it kinda sounds like something is spinning bad. The only way to stop the sound it is to wait til the noise starts making a particular sound and then bum the machine. It seems to take 20 minutes or so before you can bum it back to normal. After that everything will work fine for a while and then randomly it will start making it again.I have messed around with the graphics card and it doesn't seem to be the problem. Pressing on the case doesn't do anything, but if you bum it before "the golden noise" is made it stops and then sounds like it slowly building up speed back to the noise before.It's either ticking or humming - two entirely different sounds. And I don't know what "bum the machine" means. Quote from: Bringer23 on February 06, 2012, 01:48:14 PM

it is coming from the hard drive. I guess it could be called a ticking sound

bum the machine.

If so it is probably not the drive but something else within the case or how it is mounted.

Computer doesn't see my CD-ROM drive. Not in my computer, I have CHANGED ribbon cable, power plug, and cd drive. Is it turned off some where.
Geatway
Pentium III 447 MHz
What does Device Manager say?Don't know your o/s but I had the same problem with w98se and ended up physically disconnecting the ribbon cable and power from the cdrom, removed it from the 'device manager' and then re-installed the driver from my system disk and on re-boot it was detected and now works fine. Ok. On my way to ck device manager in system I clicked in-still mew hard wear first, It FOUND new hard wear (not CD-ROM)I instilled it.
 AMP-8151  Hyper Transport  AGP3.0 Graphic Tunnel.
I don't know what it is but should not have instilled. Now I don't have a mouse or key board can't get past password window.
Later will try to uninstall in self mode.
Right now my circulating pump on HEATING system is acting up.will fix it first.
Thinks for reply. eilselThis should be interesting... I clicked in-still mew hard wear first

Is this for real?  I gotta see this computer with a circulating pump and heating system! Quote

I gotta see this computer with a circulating pump and heating system!

I have Windows Xp Pro
Prower supply spiked by prower co. Toke my hhd w/ XP out and put it in this Gateway unit after doing this CD-ROM not listed.
WinAduit doesn't list CD-ROM eather

I saw on T.V. that nothing really ever gets erased on the computer. That they are still somewhere on the hard-drive.   I had to restore my computer, and lost all my pictures and videos.  how do I FIND them?Welcome aboard

After reinstalling Windows, you'd need professional application, or professional services to do this.
Both = BIG BUCKS!I make no promises this will work, but there are many freeware programs that can attempt to recover deleted FILES. For example:

http://www.pcworld.com/downloads/collection/collid,1295-order,1-c,downloads/files.html

These programs usually work, provided the old data hasn't been overwritten with new data.Another for the list:
http://www.recuva.comIf that drive got formatted during the reinstall his chances are dramatically less, but poor at best. IF it can be done it will be VERY EXPENSIVE - hundreds of dollars!

How long AGO did this happen?Well I tried recovering my files with many programs did not work... Then I FOUND Easy Recovery PRO it was around $500 but it worked... It recovered all my files that I needed back...It all depends what it's worth. Obviously very important. Thanks for posting back and I'm glad you got your files.

Hi, I have a desktop computer at home that I use for development and gaming, and I recently bought some new RAM for it. Right now it has 4 1GB sticks of Kingston 240-pin DDR3 1066. What I bought for new RAM is 8GB of Kingston HyperX X2 Grey Series 240-pin DDR3 1600, and each stick is 2GB each. The problem I'm having is that my computer doesn't boot up at all, like either the memory is seated incorrectly, or the memory isn't supported at all, which is what I'm fearing. I'm looking at the QVL for my motherboard and this new RAM that I bought isn't on there, which raises my fears of buying the wrong RAM for my motherboard. The motherboard that I have is an ASUS M4A785TD-V EVO. All your HELP is greatly appreciated. Thank you

QUOTE

4 x DIMM, Max. 16 GB, DDR3 1800(O.C.)*/1600(O.C.)/1333/1066/800 ECC,Non-ECC,Un-buffered Memory
Dual Channel memory architecture
*AMD AM3 100 and 200 series CPU support up to DDR3 1066MHz

Yes, I bought the RAM straight from newegg. And I haven't touches the BIOS yet but today I was talking with a co-worker about my issue and he suggested that I do a firmware update, so I might give that a try later tonight. Here is the part number for the RAM: N82E16820104237.

all I want is dual monitors
Hello folks. Here it is. I bought a new 20in monitor. I would like to be able to hook up the new monitor as well as the 17inch older monitor. I only have a single onboard vga output on my pc now. I have a pci-e port available. So i'm thinking, no problem, I just need a dual output video card. My guitar player allegedly knows all about computers and actually makes a living doing computer repair work. He says "oh, no problem, I've got a bunch of dual output cards laying around." On Saturday he brought me five dual output video cards heaped together in a walmart bag. I was reluctant to put any one of these in my pc since they appeared not cared for. He tells me, it's cool. So I proceed to install each and every one of the five with no results. I am pretty sure that I did the install correctly, (only doubt I have is if I need to somehow disable the onboard output before trying to install the new card, my buddy said no, and I haven't seen this mentioned in my reading about the installation process.) After install of each card, my pc did not recognize any new hardware on start-up, nor could I locate it. OK, so the "I know a guy" technique didn't work out. I will now buy what I need to get dual monitors. I have two concerns now. Could there be a problem with my slot? I would like to hope not, it was a virgin slot. a video card looks like a pretty *censored* delicate piece of technology to just toss into a walmart bag and then have it work again. So I am about to spend money on something and WONDER if I should go with an external card. The next issue I have learned about is if I do get an internal card, will my 300watt pc power supply be enough for it? All I want is two monitors with my DAW on one and whatever else on the other. All I do is stare at ableton, EMAIL, and watch the occasional youtube videos. I don't need a state of the art video card. What the *censored* should I do. I am leaning towards the external, but I don't know, maybe my buddy has a walmart bag full of those too.
am leaning towards an external card, but am not sure how I would need to set it up for dual display
Here are my specs.
HP Pavilion Media Center m8300f PC (GX611AA) specifications - HP Home & Home Office ProductsIf you have a valid PCI - e slot and a PCI -e card they should fit together no problem.  The trick is to pulg the monitor into the new video card and not the old port you were using.  By default, if it is a working card, the computer will display something to it.  Normally before a driver is installed for that hardware, it will default to a low resolution so things appear bigger than usual, but this is normal.

If you did not get to this point after putting in any of these cards, odds are that all the cards are bad (which would explain how this guy got them for free and kept them in a heap), or the slot MAY be bad.  If you did get to this part, you'll want to look up the make and model of the card and search the web for a driver.  It should be listed on the card somewhere, Radeon or Nvidia are the two major brands, and the numbers after it are the model (6800, x300, 9250, ETC.).  Look for the brand's drivers online and find a match through their driver search feature.  Download this and your cards should work properly.  If you have two monitor ports on the card, you should be able to just plug in the monitors and they will work.As for the power supply question, 300 watts should be plenty for a basic dual monitor card. Once you pick a card, head over to the manufacturer's website and you should find the recommended wattage in the specifications for the card. "If you have two monitor ports on the card, you should be able to just plug in the monitors and they will work." <-only if the card supports dual monitors (pretty much every new card does so as long as your using a modern card). If you're worried about bios settings for VGA then go into the bios before you install your new card and set it to use pci-e (if thats the type of card you are using).I'm not FAMILIAR with external video cards but, based a few buyer reviews posted on website that sells them, I think I stick with an internal card if possible.  Although it seems a bit unlikely all 5 of those cards your friend had in bag are bad, I agree that that way to handling cards (tossed in bag) could result in damage.  And, as giardmi09 mentioned, you may need to go into your BIOS settings and make a change.

Regarding the connecting of dual monitors to a card, keep in mind the type of connection (DVI or VGA) your monitors require.  If both your monitors use a VGA connection, you will need a DVI-to-VGA adapter if your card has 1 DVI port and 1 VGA port, which is a fairly common configuration for video cards.

I want to put together a Menu system for a HIGH School and wanted to ask for a little advice before I got started as I'm not sure that what I have in mind will actually be feasible.
There are 4 lines in the cafeteria each with a different menu.  These menus change every day.
The Cafe Manager has a PC in her office which is about 50' away from where the monitors will be situated.
Will it be possible to run all 4 monitors from her PC? (remembering that each monitor will be displaying something different)
Also, what kind of cable would be best to connect the monitors to the PC?  ( I don't think any will need to be longer than 50'.)

Or would wireless be an option?

Any help will be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Davva
Long VGA cables get to be expensive.
But first, you need to decide what kind of device will let you run FOUR different menus. You did say four menus, didn't you?

If you want four monitors with the same menu, it is a no banner. Just get a splitter that drives four monitors.
Here is just one place that offers the kind of stuff you wan t.
http://www.mycablemart.com/



Quote from: Geek-9pm on February 07, 2012, 02:36:30 PM

Long VGA cables get to be expensive.
But first, you need to decide what kind of device will let you run four different menus. You did say four menus, didn't you?

If you want four monitors with the same menu, it is a no banner. Just get a splitter that drives four monitors.
Here is just one place that offers the kind of stuff you wan t.
http://www.mycablemart.com/

Does any ONE have two 6800 ULTRAS in SLI mode? Does it make that much of a differance. OR, does anyone know if it would?you mean 8800 ultras? no, 6800 ultra, they are about 2-3 yrs OLD and still pretty good. They were made to COMPETE with ATI's X800 seriesheres a link

http://techreport.com/articles.x/7671/4

it looks as though at lower resolution, the SLI setup is not very noticable, but as the resolution gets higher, the SLI setup does make a difference.WOW! thats a big differance. Thanx for the INFO.

I have an HP desktop, with Windows XP, and an AMD 64 X2 dual core processor with an on board graphics card (which supports one monitor). I added an add-on graphics card (which supports 2 monitors), but had to DISABLE the on-board VIDEO card to do so. Is there any way to use/enable both graphics cards so I can view 3 monitors at the same time?I don't THINK so... I wanted the same THING but ended up disabling my on board graphic card... But MAYBE I'm wrong...No.

Ok im getting really close to building my first computer. I have the parts selected and i would like to know what you guys thought of this build...

1. Case and PSU
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2337815&sku=ULT33181

2. CPU
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2912693

3. Motherboard
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2896653

4. RAM
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2231929

5. CD / DVD Drive
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3427158

6.Harddrive
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2937363

7. Video Card
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3001066

Im running on kinda of a tight budget and this is what i could come up with. Would this be a nice build? I am trying to build a computer for light gaming such as WOW and Diablo 2 and web browsing.

thanks and PLEASE give recomendations but remember im on a tight budget. you may wish to get at LEAST a 7000 series video card.

also, i would SUGGEST this motherboard for an extra $10. it has a faster FSB and it can SUPPORT up to 4gb of RAM. the only negative side it that the ASUS board only has 2 PCI slots whereas the MSI one has 3.Get a 7600 GS, instead. That 5500 isn't running any games any time soon.if u  didn't know  .........................there is   ANOTHER  COMPANY     about  1/3  the prices  of  tiger  "cheaper"

its  called   newegg.com      ................................  or  even  amazon/overstock


 do your HOMEWORK before  going with the rebate KING  from  *censored*........does the fsb really make an extreme difference.

the board i have selected has 800 and is 1000 way better?1000 is better then 800, but in all honesty, you will probably not notice the difference.LOL at the graphics card  Are you a gamer?

I apologize if this is a repeat question. I couldn't find an answer. I built a AMD 64 computer with a Gigabyte MB for my dad about 4 years ago. The board or CPU went tu last week. I hated setting up the Gigabyte board so I replaced it with a ASUS AM2 board. Is there any hope in getting the bios SET up to RECOGNIZE the array that is already established on the 2 WD 80GB HD's?i am pretty sure that you will need to re-build your array, reformat your drives and reinstall your OS. if you bought the EXACT same motherboard, you might be able to pull it off, but since you got a completly different motherboard, i doubt you will be able to simply pop the HARDRIVES back in and start using them, at least not without some serious side effects.That's the wrong answer...     At least I wish it was.

I have just attempted to replace the memory in a Dell Latitude 1501 from 1 g to 2 g. Now the system won't run it just SHOWS the middle light "A" blinking and NOTHING else. What did I do wrong? I TRIED to put the old memory back but the same results . Please assist me with the  trouble shooting  steps I might be able to use. thanks I PRESUME you mean the RAM? Try booting the laptop without it - what hapens? When you say the system won't run, does it go through any of the boot up procedure?

So here is what happened. I was trying to delete "Incredimail" off of my computer using the task manager or something and my computer froze on me. So I pressed ctrl, alt, delete while in it and restarted my computer. When it restarted everything was gone, and I mean everything. Nothin is left not even my saved files. So I read somewhere that you can re-set your computer to an earlier time when it had all of it's files and then everything will be fine, but the problem is that I dont know how to do this. Please help me............my parents will kill me if they see this.  It's not just a little useless info, my dad runs his home buisness off of this thing . Please help asap. I have Windows xp home edition. HELP!!!!! Start -> Programs -> Accessories -> System Tools -> System Restore

Please beware that any files or programs ALTERED between the restore point you choose and now will be lost.

Before you do that, are you sure you're logged onto the same user and not a different user? If somehow you're logged on to a different user, other users' files won't be visible to you.Firstly, what exactly did you do to remove Incredimail from the PC? Task Manager would ALLOW you to close the program down, but wouldn't remove it from the PC. Can you remember which options you selected?

When the PC loads up, can you DESCRIBE what happens, what is MISSING, and where it is missing from? Do you select a username when you log on? Does Windows load up normally? Which folder are your saved files stored in?



Ok I used add or remove programs. Then while the window was still up my computer froze so I restarted it, and I only have 1 user name on this computer and it went to that one. It STARTED up normally and I noticed at first because there was nothing but the internet and the recycling bin left on the desktop and then I searched for other stuff and found that there is litterlly nothing left on the computer except that. Quote from: quaxo on December 04, 2007, 01:59:43 AM

Start -> Programs -> Accessories -> System Tools -> System Restore

Please beware that any files or programs altered between the restore point you choose and now will be lost.

Before you do that, are you sure you're logged onto the same user and not a different user? If somehow you're logged on to a different user, other users' files won't be visible to you.

c:\windows\system32\restore\rstrui.exe

hi. fitting a new motherboard to the lads computer after being told by manufacturers that the old one was had it. we bought a abit nf-m2s board.
think we have got all wires connected correctly but i am struggling with the power cable to the hard drive.
they are 2 black wires, 1 red wire and 1 yellow wire. there is a CONNECTOR in the middle of the cables with pb PRINTED on it, i assume goes into the back of the hard drive. further on there is a connector with pc printed on it and i cannot figure out where i should PLUG this in.     help..........is this the cable that you are talking about?



if it is, disregard what is WRITTEN on the connector. simply plug it into your harddrive and if you have an extra connector, assuming everything else is hooked up, just leave it. it is not uncommon to have an extra connector or two.Okay what it says on the cable doesn't matter thats just a way to number it,  look for four pins on the back on the HardDrive, Its connects to that.

A freind asked me to see if I can fix his usb stick.  Its a cheap 8GB stick.  I don't know what brand but he got it off of eBay for only 28$.  He was copying files when someone else came by and did not realize it was in use and unplugged it.  Or so the story goes.  It will not format to fat32 nor ntfs.  It gets all the way through the format process then a window pops up and says windows xp cannot format the drive.  I tried to format on my vista laptop and it crashes the system.
     I cannot delete anything off of it.  I get cyclic redundancy errors.  Is there any way to wipe it clean and then format?Start > Run > cmd

type format g: /x

where g: is the drive letter for the USB device.

Be very careful USING this procedure - if you specify the wrong drive letter you will lose everything on that drive.some of flash drive have a small lock somewhere, try find it.
Like a pin. Quote from: nickc1976 on December 10, 2007, 02:27:10 AM

Start > Run > cmd

type format g: /x <enter>

where g: is the drive letter for the USB device.

Be very careful using this procedure - if you specify the wrong drive letter you will lose everything on that drive.

some of flash drive have a small lock somewhere, try find it.
Like a pin.

thank you for the reply,  when i run this command it goes through a verifying process.  It runs through the process 100% then gives the message " Invalid media or track 0 bad - disk unusable".   I think its trashed.

It may be a U3 drive...Vista is not exactly prepared for this unless you have every update already installed...plug it in to an XP machine and format it.

It may be a U3 drive...Vista is not exactly prepared for this unless you have every update already installed

I really need some help with this as soon as possible. I don't even know if it is possible.

A few months ago, I sent a fax to an insurance company cancelling a policy. My fax machine at work is not set up to spit out a fax confirmation page. Only if there is an error does it spit out a fax confirmation. Well, the insurance company has still been taking money out of my account and claims to have never received this fax.

Is there any way for me to recover this fax I sent? There has got to be some way of tracking the faxes that are sent out right? Especially if it only gives the confirmation during errors.

The printer we use is a KONICA C635. Please let me know if there is anything I can do. I am out of about $400 because of this insurance company and the only way to get it back is to find that fax. Quote from: pawsjewl on November 28, 2011, 12:35:32 PM

There has got to be some way of tracking the faxes that are sent out right?

The one I'm looking for is called KONICA MINOLTA C652SeriesPCL.

The printer we use is a KONICA C635

Not giving up hope yet though. Hoping someone out there can help.

I am fixing to update my rig. I am going with ASUS Crosshair V Formula AM3+ AMD 990FX SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Gaming Motherboard with 3-Way SLI/CrossFireX Support and UEFI BIOS,

AMD Phenom II X6 1100T Black Edition Thuban 3.3GHz, 3.7GHz Turbo Socket AM3 125W Six-Core DESKTOP PROCESSOR , G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600

(PC3 12800), and ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 7 Pro Rev.2 92mm Fluid Dynamic CPU Cooler. I already have G-Force 9800GTX GPU. Any thoughts on the upgrade are welcomed.



Power Supply - make sure you get something that can handle your rig.  You can get by with a 550-600W if you're just running one GRAPHICS card, but if you're going to invest in dual cards in the future, you'll want something better -and a good BRAND too, nothing cheap.  Also, make sure you upgrade the 9800 with something a little newer.  I hear the 550 is a nice one - and will handle anything you throw at it on high settings.  When prices go down next year, then worry about getting a second one for SLI.

Also, make sure your case will have ENOUGH cooling/ventilation - overheating is always a problem - all that heat has to go somewhere.Oh, and AM3+?  They do make some newer AMD processors that utilize that with 95W power - runs cooler and more efficient.

I've resumed running [email protected] program at 100% on both cores of my laptop (HP Compaq - in specs). I just cleaned the CPU heat sink last week. Will continuous operation at these temps cause a problem?


[REGAINING space - attachment deleted by admin]80degC on a laptop or desktop is too high. Quote from: Computer_Commando on October 12, 2011, 03:11:53 AM

80degC on a laptop or desktop is too high.

Yeah, that's a bit too hot. When you cleaned the heat sink, did you remove it? And if you removed it, did you reapply thermal paste? Is there a fan in the laptop and is it working properly? Has it been cleaned?

Are all the vents on the laptop clear of any obstructions? Are you using a cooling pad of some sort?

I feel a fairly strong flow of hot air out of the vent grill (now ~ 128 degrees F / 53 degrees C - measured externally with a thermometer).

I have a quad core desktop I intend to run [email protected] on, but it's loaned to my sister at this time until she buy's another PC. And she won't let me run [email protected] on it 24/7 at her house because of her utility bill. Family...  , but she sure can cook good so I don't want to rock the boat. 

Food...

The image you posted does not show up for me. How do I open it?

I would download the Windows: V6 GPU2 client because it is the latest version that supports ATI graphics. The X1600 is on par with the Radeon 4200 integrated graphics on the AMD 785G desktop chipset, so I'd say the X1200 is about equal to the Radeon 3000 integrated graphics on the AMD 760G desktop chipset. I have folded before on the Radeon 3000 without any chipset overheating issues, so I'd give your X1200 the all-clear to fold. Oh and one more thing-flash is CPU-intensive, not GPU-intensive.

Basic Requirements:

• 2xxx/3xxx/4xxx/5xxx ATI Video Card, or newer
• ATI Driver v8.1+, v8.3 or newer recommended, up to v9.2 (v9.3 not supported yet) (do not use OEM drivers)
• 5xxx - v9.10 driver or newer, MUST use -forcegpu ati_r700 switch (w/ v6.23)
• AGP GPU aperture size in the BIOS must be set to 128 MB or larger
• Microsoft .NET Framework 2.0, with updates recommended
• Windows operating system, XP or newer

What's different between the GPU1 (first generation) and the GPU2 (second generation) client?
Scientifically, GPU2 introduces several new advances which makes it much more useful. It matches the advanced water models in the PS3 client and adds a new one (which will likely appear in a future PS3 client). These more advanced water models MAKE this new GPU client very useful to us.
There are also many changes under the hood. The first generation client proved to be problematic due to GPU-specific issues and we've fixed all of them (as far as we can tell) in this second generation client. An important part of these fixes is using CAL (on ATI) and CUDA (on NVIDIA) instead of DirectX (the previous generation GPU client highlighted several issues with using DirectX). A major upside to using CAL and CUDA is that DirectX context switches no longer affect the client. Actions such as Fast-User switching, or locking your computer have no effect on GPU processing. Remote Desktop does still affect the GPU client and will cause the FahCore to fail when a connection is initiated. VNC does not have the same problem and can be used as an alternative.

Apparently the original GPU client has been retired. GPU2 requires at least a Radeon 2xxx to run... I'm sorry for totally barking up the wrong tree.
http://foldingforum.org/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=2128&start=0
So we are now stuck with only folding on your CPU...

Seems a shame to shoot the horse you rode in on

GPU2 is much easier to run, more reliable scientifically, and has more advanced algorithms. Due to these differences, GPU1 has become obsolete.

OK, I Don't use a computer monitor I just use a HDMI TV screen so I use some speakers I bought to hear my music and what not, on Friday night my speakers where working and from Saturday night and even now they don't work for my computer, I tested them with my mp3 players and there was sound I plug it back into the computer no sound. I really want to listen to my music and watch video's with sound. If any one can help I would be most grateful. Are they in the correct plug ? ?
Did you check Control Panel/Sounds to see if anything is muted ? ?Yes it's in the correct plug,  nothing was muted, I find it really odd that all of a sudden they stop working I have had them for ages and no problem like I said they where working great Friday night then Saturday night can't get any sound, I even tried TROUBLESHOOTER and system restore and still no luckWhat has changed since Friday nite ? ?
Do other people use this PC ? ?Umm the computer did some updates and restarted itself and I'm the only one who uses the computerTry re-installing your sound drivers...
It shouldn't happen but perhaps the update wonked them for whatever reason...did that still no luck Are you plugging them into the front panel or directly into the motherboard ports at the back?I plugged the Jack in the green one on the back of the computer I never touched it until the problem happendHave you tried plugging them into the front of your computer and then selecting "Disable Front Panel Jack Detection"? This will eliminate the possibility of a hardware issue.
I plugged it into the front but I couldn't find  "Disable Front Panel Jack Detection"No sound? Okay...   I'm HONESTLY at a loss of what to do...

Is your default sound playback device set to your default soundcard output:

Can you try a bluetooth-based set of headphones/speakers? Can you try a USB-based set of headphones, which has its own soundcard so we can narrow down the problem? (It would be BEST if you could get your hands on both, but either one is fine. A bluetooth HEADSET will create another output from your soundcard, FYI) Quote

I really want to listen to my music and watch video's with sound

hi my boys computer wont start even in safe mode keeps cycling the page windows error recovery  can any one help please What os( Operating system) are you running? And a bit more details on what it does or does not.  WHOOPS sorry seen what os your running. My mistake. 
"Windows disk" try reinstalling windows.
That is all.

It might be helpful to list computer type AGE os etc.   Hi John6129,

Please try these steps:

If you have the original Windows Vista installation disc:

• Turn on the computer and INSERT the disc
• Restart the computer
• If prompted, press any key to start Windows from the installation disc.
• Choose your language settings, then click next
• Click "Repair your computer"
• SELECT your operating system then click next
• On the System Recovery Options menu, click STARTUP Repair. Startup Repair might prompt you to make choices as it tries to fix the problem, and if necessary, it might restart your computer as it makes repairs.

• Remove all floppy disks, CDs, and DVDs from your computer, and then restart your computer.
• Press and hold the F8 key as your computer starts before the windows logo appears
• On the Advanced Boot Options screen, use the arrow keys to highlight Repair your computer, and then press ENTER. (If Repair your computer is not listed as an option, then your computer does not include Startup Repair as a preinstalled recovery option.)
• Select a keyboard layout, and then click Next
• Select a user name and enter the password, and then click OK
• On the System Recovery Options menu, click Startup Repair. Startup Repair might prompt you to make choices as it tries to fix the problem and, if necessary, it might restart your computer as it makes repairs.

Hi!,

Some time ago one of my old laptops (Let's call it laptop 1) broke which had 1x 2GB DDR2-667 with 5-5-5-15 timings. I had another, faster laptop (laptop 2) around with only 1GB DDR2 with unknown timings. So I thought it would be a good upgrade to switch the ram. Guess I was wrong.
Apparently by CPU-Z the 2GB ram which I put in laptop 2 runs now at 4-4-4-12 Timings while still keeping DDR2-667. Although I don't have any stability issues so far, I have been RECOMMENDED to not keep it like this because it could result in hardware failure.
I tried several things already:
Look for options in the BIOS to change it - No such options
Flash a new SPD to the ram with Thaiphoon burner - Didn't work
Change the FSB - It's locked
tried various programs like SPDtool, setfsb - Laptop freezes
I have a third, MUCH older laptop which I think supports the 2GB ram for flashing purposes etc. But I won't keep it in there, I want it in laptop 2.
I threw out the 1GB ram and laptop 1 some time ago so reversing back is not an option.

Do any of you know something I could do to change the Latency to 5-5-5-15? I'll try anything -AT MY OWN RISK- from flashing to dangerous programs and if I break it then I guess I'll buy new ram.

On a side note, do hard faults/sec have anything to do with all of this? I see a lot of them now, spikes of about 100/sec.

Here are some specs if it could help:

Manufacturer: Hyundai Electronics
Part Number: HYMP125S4CP8-Y5
PC2-5300
Clock Frequency: 333mhz (3,000 ns)
Read Latency: 3T, 4T, 5T

Thanks for any help in advance!Hardware Failure? Your RAM is rated to run at 4T, even 3T, so I don't see why its an issue.... in fact you benefit because the RAM LATENCIES are lower... and hardware failure will not result even if you are overclocking and play with the RAM timings-the WORST that can happen is data corruption. Plus, a BIOS reset will always return hardware settings to default.
Can you fire up CPU-Z and check your SPDs? If one of them displays 4-4-4-12 then I wouldn't worry anymore.
If you want to be absolutely sure of your computer's stability you might want to run IntelBurnTest/Orthos.

Hard faults/sec is nothing to worry about, nothing is going faulty, this is what it is:
http://www.brighthub.com/computing/windows-platform/articles/52249.aspx
Quote

First of all, a "hard fault" was previously called a "page fault" in earlier versions of Windows. Perhaps page faults were more easily understood from the name, too. A hard fault happens when the address in memory of part of a program is no longer in main memory, but has been instead swapped out to the paging file, making the system go looking for it on the hard disk.

Well I've gotten a lot of mixed answers on this question some saying it will be perfectly fine others saying I'm toast.

I was tuning up and adjusting some wires in my computer the other day when this happened:

I connected all my case fans to a cord coming from my psu that had 4 molex connectors, on the other side was a 4-pin sys fan connectors.

My fans had been running fine without them being attached to the motherboard but curious me decided I would connect it anyways only the it was a 4-pin and my motherboard was a 3-pin.

I did some research and a majority of the people said I should be fine. So I went for it.

I plugged the in the 4-pin to the 3-pin and flipped on the power. I heard a faint crackle and immediately cut the power. Very quickly, I'd be surprised if the power was on for much more than half a second.

I smelt for a brief moment the smell of overheated (possible burnt) computer coming from the 4-pin/3-pin contraption. No smoke. And no signs of burning, blackness, anything.

I panicked like I never thought possible. I've yet to explore the back of the motherboard to see if there is any damage there but SOMETHING tells me there wouldn't be. But obviously I can't be sure unless I look.

I few minutes later I plugged it in and turned on the computer, all the lights came on, no beeps, and I GOT a display just like I've always got.

I went into the BIOS and took a look at everything and it at looked good.

Despite this I'm still very worried that there are underlying problems, maybe not with the CPU, GPU, RAM, but maybe with the PSU, or especially the Motherboard.

People have said that if my motherboard or PSU was damaged then nothing would turn on and that I'm okay since everything TURNS on.

Others have said it works but I'm on borrowed time and the life of my computer has been cut drastically.

And others have said that I'm totally skrewed and I need to go and buy new stuff.

What do you think? Please help, this whole situation has got me so worried and caused me more stress than you can imagine 



My OS loads fine. (Linux)
Switching power supplies protect a lot from crowbarring by miswiring. I'd say the noise likely came from your PSU when it was geting crowbarred. Are you sure you didnt hear a clicking noise vs snap-crackle-pop? I say run your system as normal, dont attempt this again, and if you run into further issues later on post back here ( from another computer that works) and we will help you get back up and running or at LEAST diagnose the location of a failure.

The only way I can think of frying a motherboard would be if you were to pass 12V onto the 5V or lower voltage circuitry. The 3 pin config is +12, ground, and tach ( fan speed ). The molex with 4 pins was probably only using 2 or 3 of the 4 pins. 2 if a fan only without tach, and 3 if with tach. Never seen any fans with 4 wires yet.

If the fan was powered reverse the snap-crackle-pop could have been from a fan. The fans are brushless and have a small circuit board to drive the fans through pulsed induction to a fixed magnet vs brushed drive. Some of these have electrolytic capacitors which dont like reverse polarity and tend to snap-crackle-pop and/or explode if powered reverse, although they are very small in size so no big explosion, just a popcorn loud pop. They usually smell pretty good too when they rupture or pop. Sometimes like fish oil. You can smell the fans to see if you can find one that smells fishy..lol... or like cooked electronics. The trace for 12volts running through the main boards are usually pretty rugged, and the ground plane is even more rugged than that to resist burning up. Plus the powersupplies have the anti-crowbar when overloaded and make a tick noise.

Quote

Short-circuit Protection
An output short circuit is defined as any output impedance of less than 0.1 ohms. The
power supply shall shut down and LATCH off for shorting the +3.3 VDC, +5 VDC, or
+12 VDC rails to return or any other rail. The +12 V1DC and +12V2DC should have
separate short circuit and overload protection. Shorts between main output rails and +5
VSB shall not cause any damage to the power supply. The power supply shall either shut
down and latch off or fold back for shorting the negative rails. +5 VSB must be capable of
being shorted indefinitely, but when the short is removed, the power supply shall recover
automatically or by cycling PS_ON#. The power supply shall be capable of withstanding a
continuous short-circuit to the output without damage or overstress to the unit (for
example, to components, PCB traces, connectors) under the input conditions specified in
Section 3.1. The maximum short-circuit energy in any output shall not exceed 240 VA, per
IEC 60950 requirements.

Never seen any fans with 4 wires yet.

Hi,
I am very qurious about the computer screens display rate.
I believe my screen only shows 60 hz and therefor i ask the question:
In computer games, such as cod or bf3, will i benefit of having a fps above 60, maybe 90-120. Or will this have no effect due to my computer screen, also i would like to say that i have noticed a difference but i am not quite sure. and that was between 60 fps and 225 fps.

Thank you very muchWelcome to the CH forums. If we are talking about the refresh rate on an LCD screen then there is no benefit to changing the rate. Pretty well all manufacturers preset their rates for the best resolution performance and altering it will not ENHANCE the performance. If we are talking about a CRT monitor there can be performance ENHANCEMENTS to altering the refresh rate but a rate of 60hz is pretty standard for their optimum performance. What specifically are you currently NOT satisfied with in the screen PRESENTATION with your games? It could be other factors that are at the basis of the issue.truenorthHi Truenorth
I don't have any problems, i an just qurious.
I am talking about a LCD screen with 60Hz.
Is it so that there will be no difference if i change the in-game fps to 100+ over locking it at 60?
So in told, but i cannot come to peace with it.
I am going to test it in a couple of games, se if i notice anything (I think i will).
Also if we take cod 4 for an example, then certain jumps can only be Done if you have 125 fps..
Do you kone anything about this? Do you know***
 Monitor refresh ratea and gaming FPS are 2 different things...
Having a higher refresh rate will not GIVE you BETTER FPS.

Leave it set to the monitors recommended settings.Could you explain me the difference? Since you asked
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frame_rate
An exam will follow in due course,truenorthAnd, for comparison, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Refresh_rateOkay thank you very much guys. I now understand the difference )I hope i pass the exam....

I asked a question yesterday about RAM fitting a CERTAIN COMPUTER that you guys helped me with. I contacted the PC maker and found out the motherboard is a Gigabyte GA-M68MT-S2P and crucial recommended this for that board  http://www.crucial.com/store/mpartspecs.aspx?mtbpoid=9475DC0DA5CA7304  so before I bought it I wanted to make sure if this would fit  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231314  Thank you again I really do appreciate the help.Yes, that RAM will fit just fine

The only major difference it the timing. If you have not/are not going to OVERCLOCK the machine, or have changed your RAM timings MANUALLY in your BIOS this is nothing to worry about.

I just bought this < http://answers.walmart.com/answers/1336/product/17113672/questions.htm?expandquestion=589406 > computer for my son and wanted to know if this < http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820220557 > RAM will work in it. I appreciate any help.Thanks =)The wallyworld site provides zero info on the specs except it takes up to 4G of RAM...
Travel to crucial.com and run the online scanner...If you already have the computer you can check out the specs in greater detail using CPU-Z from this site: http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html

*Be sure to uncheck the 3 boxes during install asking to add toolbar and change your default browser info. I just installed the latest version and was surprised they had that in there. I guess that's how they make their money to support that tool.

There is a memory (SPD) tab as shown in the attached pic that will show you all sorts of info about your memory. Its best to replace original ram with same speed, so if the original ram is 1066 replace with 1066 or if 1333 replace with 1333 to ensure best compatibility.

I looked all over the web and found no information stating the ram speed for that system, just that its DDR3 and DDR3 has like 8 different speeds, but this box is more likely to be a budget box with the slower ram.



[regaining space - attachment deleted by admin] Quote

The wallyworld site provides zero info on the specs except it takes up to 4G of RAM

Key Features and Benefits:

    AMD Phenom II X3 720 Black Edition processor
    2.80GHz

    4GB DDR3 SDRAM system memory (expandable to 8GB)
    Gives you the power to handle most power-hungry applications and tons of multimedia work

    1TB SATA hard drive
    Store 666,000 photos, 285,000 songs or 526 hours of HD video and more

    24x DVD+/-R/RW Drive
    Watch movies, and read and write CDs and DVDs in multiple formats

    10/100/1000 Ethernet
    Connect to a BROADBAND modem with or wired broadband router with wired Ethernet

    Integrated Graphics

Sometimes when I turn on my desktop the CPU fan goes at very high speed and the CPU temp is 106. I have CHECKED and there is no dust. I do not think it is the heatsink as it does not happen all the time. It is a Medion 8341 running Windows 7. Has anyone any ideas as to what may be the cause.

The computer is not used for intensive work/games and anyway this happens at start up before such work could be startedhttp://superuser.com/questions/55632/cpu-temperature-sensor-wrong
I read this anecdote from another person experiencing extremely high temperatures.
Quote from: ANSI on October 11, 2011, 04:14:30 AM

I do not think it is the heatsink as it does not happen all the time. It is a Medion 8341 running Windows 7. Has anyone any ideas as to what may be the cause.

... the CPU temp is 106.

Is that Centigrade or Fahrenheit?

http://superuser.com/questions/55632/cpu-temperature-sensor-wrong
I read this anecdote from another person experiencing extremely high temperatures.Is it possible to check your temps from your BIOS? It could very well be the heatsink not making firm contact with the CPU-when the temps go insanely high, put your finger on the heatsink-is it cold? Could you try with another heatsink and fan just to make sure? Try reapplying your thermal paste; dried-up thermal paste will not conduct heat effectively.

Real Temp is a temperature monitoring program designed for all Intel single Core, Dual Core and Quad Core processors. Each core on these processors has a digital thermal sensor (DTS) that reports temperature DATA relative to TJMax which is the safe maximum operating core temperature for the CPU. ...

The first problem is that TJMax is not a clearly defined value. Intel RELEASED a lot of information LAST year but they now refer to this data as TJ Target. Actual TJMax for any processor can either be equal to TJ Target or in some cases it might be slightly higher than the Intel listed TJ Target. Unfortunately, Intel did not provide the user COMMUNITY with any information about how much TJMax tends to vary. ...

http://www.techpowerup.com/realtemp/docs.php

OK my laptop charging port isn't working ( unfixable ) and i was thinking of BUYING another laptop but i was wondering if there was ANYTHING i could BUY that could charge up the BATTERY without having to go into the port ?

please replyLookHere

I am not able to print any documents from MS WORD 2003, but can print documents off of the web. I have an hp PSC 1350 printer. Can anyone help me fix this problem? Thanks.    Did this just start or has it always been this way? If it just started, what led up to it?

What happens when you TRY to print in Word?