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I purchased a Lenova H320. I want to purchase a 20 inch (no larger) monitor to use. The newer 16:9 20 inch monitors all have a NATIVE resolution of 1600 x 900. The Lenova graphics system does not list this resolution. I plan to use the DVI connection. Literature says that monitors need to be used at their native res. or they may distort or blur the pix. So what can or should I do? I ran into an issue with a 20" wide screen and video games. The games graphics were squashed to conform to widescreen. I ended up giving this display to my WIFE and I ended up buying a samsung 19" regular flat screen non-widescreen that I can have 1024x768 WITHOUT issues as well as 800x600 for some OLDER 10 year old games. But the 19" was 2.5 times the price of a $119.00  20" widescreen. When TRYING to get the 20" screen to conform to normal 1024x768 game graphics it looked like a 14" display operating with lots of wasted screen on both sides. Quote from: richesson on April 30, 2011, 08:02:38 PM

The Lenova graphics system does not list this resolution.

"Intel Core 2 Duo E6700 2.66GHz" & "Intel PENTIUM Dual-Core E6700 3.20GHz." Which CPU is better for gaming?

My current graphic card is HD Radeon 4650 1 GB for small form factor. My current CPU is Intel Core 2 Duo E6400 2.13 Ghz. Please help!
HTTP://www.cpubenchmark.net/ This SITE has good benchmark results as well as a good benchmark tool, which shares your benchmark hardware results for others to compare.

http://www.cpubenchmark.net/mid_range_cpus.html This page has the E6700 Pentium and the E6750 Duo, the Pentium E6700 Dual-core scored higher at 2,022 while the Core 2 Duo scored just 1,688Thank you very much. I just am marveled always people like you who knows so much about this stuff. I am self-taught computer novice. THANKS again!

Hi, I have just purchased this keyboard modification for my flight Sims, but I am a unsure how this will work because some keys are modified to be pressed at the same time. I would like to know what happens when you press some keys together on a keyboard before I start to mess about doing this. Please look at the link below and you will see the modifications they use on the keyboards. I realise you can press some key combinations using shift, Ctrl etc, but these ones look different so take a look before commenting. Thanks!!

http://www.rogerdodger.net/diyflightsims/keyboard_home.htmlYou can press key combinations of any keys, especially when playing games. In some cases, you might be limited to how many keys you press at the same time (2, 3, or 4 keys) but they can STILL be pressed together. How a program reacts to these presses is entirely up to the program. For typing, if you press and hold a combination of keys, it will show all keys in the order they were pressed, but only repeat the LAST key to make contact (it's humanly impossible to make them all contact at the exact same time). For example, if I attempt to press ASDF all at the same time, I get something like this: adfssssss, with 's' being the last key to make contact.

In games, key combinations are a normal thing. For example, if playing a first person shooter, you might have your movement keys mapped to WASD, space for JUMP, F to open/use things, and R to reload. If I am holding W to move forward, then press space to jump over something, R to reload, without releasing any of the keys, all actions should happen simultaneously. You should be only limited to the number of keys you can have pressed at one time.The standard keyboard on a PC generates a code for each key press, even for keys that do not make anything visible in a text document. For example, the right shift and left shift each produce their own special codes when pressed and when released.Thus it is possible to strike a normal letter and the shift at the almost same time and the software knows exactly that you did press the shift first. But if you press two letter keys at the same time, the built in decoder can not always determine which to keys wee pressed. But most of the time it can. The decoder is extremely fast at the lowest level. It is the layer upon layer of software filters that can make keyboard response time slow. Reading the keyboard directly, at the lowest level, results in times measured in milliseconds.
http://computer.howstuffworks.com/keyboard3.htm

hello, friends i have PC with
windows 7 home
Intel dual core 2.0 GHz processor
2 GB DDR2 -- ram
nvidia 8400 512mb-- graphic card
160 GB SATA  --hard disk
i want to install NEW 500 GB of hard drive ...will this cause my system to RUN slow sorry for poor ENGLISH..No...it will not.

i recently got a NVIDIA Geforce 6200 512MB DDR2 PCI Graphics Card
and took the old one out and put in my computer and when i try to put the installation disc in
and push autorun the screen turns blue with some error message and RESTARTS was wondering if any1 knows why?

Don't know if its the card or the cd driveFor any help, we need to know the details of that message.

To disable an automatic reboot...

Click start > right click my computer > properties

for Win XP > advanced tab > under startup and recovery > settings > untick automatically restart > OK to close then close all other windows and try to install again.

For Win Vista/7 > on left PANEL > advanced system settings > under startup and recovery > settings > untick automatically restart > OK to close then close all other windows and try to install again.

Write down the details of the information at the top, we do not need to read the parts about recent driver/hardware install ect, just the code that may look like this
IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL 0x0000000ADownload BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is DONE, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next reply

Hello-I have a HP PHOTOSMART C5100 all-in-one series printer which is NOT hooked up with my computer. HP was no help as no longer under warranty so I hope I may get answer here.I have tried to set the control to grayscale but do not have that option. I purchased a brand new HP black and white ink cartridge and when i try to make a black and white copy it keeps coming up that I need to replace 2 of my color ink cartridges which I do not want to do.  I have removed all my colored inks,turned it off,unplugged the unit etc. etc. and nothing seems to work. I THINK i READ SOMEWHERE LONG TIME AGO that you can trick the COPIER into thinking that the color inks are full therefore being able to print a copy. Why cannot I bypass w/o having to buy colored ink which i cannot afford and make a copy. It looks like i have to make copies at a copy center Thx in advance if you have picasa 3 you can change it to b/wThere is no way around this. You cannot bypass the requirement to have adequate colored/coloured ink present, even if you are only doing grayscale/greyscale printing. This is by design. I think Harry 48 did not read the question properly.

Salmon Trout says you can not do it.
He is nearly always right. Still, some say there is a workaround
Have you done a search?
How to Fix HP Printer
Will bring up some ideas.
General discussion:
http://www.ehow.com/how_4999655_fix-hp-printer-errors.html
But you want specific info about how to make in k look full.
http://www.instructables.com/answers/How-can-I-make-my-printer-see-the-ink-level-as-not/

This problem common with HP printers. It happens to me too. Both my HP printers. But I don't have your model.

Look in you documentation. There is a way to force it to print with near empty cartilage(s). But the cartilages have to be in the printer.
Quote from: Salmon Trout on March 14, 2011, 02:26:18 PM

There is no way around this. You cannot bypass the requirement to have adequate colored/coloured ink present, even if you are only doing grayscale/greyscale printing. This is by design. I think Harry 48 did not read the question properly.

good man salmon , i knew you would come up with a very good answer 

So I have this Gateway CPU that I am trying to get working again as it had problems before.  What happens is it randomly seems to freeze WITHOUT warning and is unusable until I manually power down the system.  I eventually wiped the hard drive and reloaded the OS (Windows Vista 64 BIT).  The problem is still there it happens after the CPU loading screen when it tries to LOAD the OS or ANYTIME after that right now I cannot get into the OS because it freezes first, I can access the BIOS fine though.  The other bit of news which is pretty important is that I foolishly bought a graphics card which requires 400 W of power minimum according to the box, but my power supply is only 300 W.  Before I knew this I ran the system for a least a straight month and then off and on for another couple months without any problems even though I was using the graphics card (PNY Nvidia Geforce 9800GT).  Today I took out the graphics card but I still froze.  So any advice is helpful, I am wondering mainly what is causing the freezing now, and if I seriously damaged something by running the card with inadequate power.  The RAM seems fine and the temp hovers around 40 Celsius if that is helpful
ThanksBorrow a known working PSU of at least 400W or greater and swap it in there overnite...
You will know right away if thats the culprit...

You are asking that hardware to do something it's not quite capable of...

Hi there,

I am using Compaq Presario C700, Win 7.

I have been facing a problem of high CPU usage by System Interrupts. At times is 100 % even when i check in Resources Monitor in Task Manager. It LEADS to overheating and unexpected shut down.

At times when i try to start the laptop, it does not start, just a blue screen comes nothing else.

I have updated all the drivers, still have the same problem.

please help me getting this solved if possible.

With regards,
RAVI   What is CPU temperature at TIME of unexpected shutdown?Usually, it goes the other way around.
Overheating may cause high CPU usage.I did not notice the temp at the time of unexpected shutdown but at time its too hot that i need no heater at all.

I understand overheating causes high CPU usage but CPU usage in this CASE is high even after 5 mints after starting the system.

thanks Download System Information for Windows (SIW free version)
No installation required.

After it scans your computer, navigate to Hardware>Sensors and post all info from there.

thanks for the reply, please find the required information........

king regards,
Ravi



[recovering disk space - old attachment deleted by admin]Well, 81C is definitely hot.
Max temp for your CPU is listed at 100C, but you can't be getting so CLOSE with idle computer.

How old is it?
Still under warranty?no its not under warranty....... age is nearly 2 years old.

can we fix it or its just gone its very loud and speed is bit slow tooOverheating does it.
Get a can of compressed air (do NOT use anything else) and clean well all vents.
Re-run SIW and see how it goes.its too late to go to the market to get a can of compressed air.. will certainly buy in morning and let you know .... thanks and good night This is not your make & model of notebook, but this is probably what's wrong.
http://www.varesano.net/blog/fabio/disassemble%20toshiba%20tecra%20a7%20notebook%20clean%20cpu%20fanLet us know, how it went....Good evening Guys........... How are you doing

I did clean my Laptop. yes off course it was too dirty near the fan. I did clean.

Its not that hot but CPU usage is still very high. please find the report after cleaning..........

thanks,
Ravi

[recovering disk space - old attachment deleted by admin]Core temps have dropped 20degC.  I see no info on CPU usage.

The display of my monitor is not proper.sometimes

1> It's get very bright screen.
2> sometime It dont display ANYTHING completely blank.
3> sometime It's screen FLICKER continously for sometime.

I dont think its a any s/w PROBLEM beacuse after formatting the computer the problem is same.
when I start the computer for a while the screen of computer is blank and
when i hit my monitor  the screen start displaying ..

My system configuration is :
AMD ATHLON 64 processor
ASUS Motherboard
LG 17" Monitor
video ADAPTER of SIS.from you saying you hit your monitor i would guess its an old CRT, and from that i would conclude that it is going bad and you should start looking into getting a new monitor.Check your cables, adapters...
Also, if you could manage, to test your monitor and connect it to another working computer if it will be the same...

Trying to get rid of a Virus or spyware from my Computer. Everytime I scan for spyware etc and go to delete all the rubbish my computer SHUTS down , everytime .
Can somebody please help Welcome to the CH FORUMS.

Help cannot be forthcoming unless you give some details of your pc and what you are doing to get rid of the viruses.  What OPERATING system and anti-virus software you are using etc.. etc..  As far as we KNOW right now you could be running an old 386 processor with Windows 3.1 over MS-Dos 6.0...

Please read this... it is the FIRST entry on all forums at CH ...

I NEED to KNOW if it possible to upgrade the graphics card on my TOSHIBA A105 s1013  laptop and if so what if any of the nvidia cards would WORK for this machine, if none are acceptable then what manufacturer should I turn to?

                           thank you in advance for amy help you can provide  Gman.Most laptop VIDEO cannot be upgraded and the ones that can are prohibitively expensive to do so...

I will try to format a hard drive in dos... "format c:"   and it will be frozen at 0% for hours and nothing will HAPEN....and when i try to format it in windows as a slave...it will not progress. Whats up?Is this a slave drive? If not how did you "boot" into Dos?

Normally this is done with a boot floppy or a CD if this is your "C" drive.

You can't boot the machine into windows and than try to format it's self.



i booted w/ a windows Cd....Hard drives don't last for ever - it could be broken.
im judging, DUE to its CAPACITY, that it is an older drive. Dias de verano MAY be correct, assuming you hooked it up correctly and correctly set the jumpers.

I currently have a DELL 600SC. i beleive the CD-rom is going. i CANNOT dowload games or anything on my cd rom on the top (one labeld Compact Disk) When i try to PUT Cd in there it tries to LOAD and the light flashes for about 10min but nothing happens. When i put the game in the bottom Cd drive (the DVD, RW one) it works but only for one of my games. I dont know if its something with the Cd but the only way to get my game to work is with the top Drive any ideas? when i put game in top drive it tries to load over and over again but ends us not doing anything.  please i need help fast

I replaced the CPU an Booted it up.  It gives me an error code on the back ABC are green an D is yellow.  I changed the AGP and it didnt fix anything.http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dzuul/codemess.htm#post_beep_codes

listed as "other" failure - contact Dell

I did,  The mb is bad or seems to be didnt know if anyone could FIRGURE out any other reasons other then this.What are some REASONABLE places to get boards for these?Did you put the original CPU back in?  Were you replacing just to upgrade, or did the original stop working?Yes, Replacing, Stoped I suppose ESDANy places where I can get reasonably priced boards? Quote from: squall_01 on March 30, 2008, 06:22:58 AM

ANy places where I can get reasonably priced boards?

hi there.

A month or two ago i used my USB mem. stick to copy across ubuntu onto an ASUS eeepc.

I remember doing certain formatting things, etc. with the program to allow me to copy it all across, and i think the OS was about 2.7GB.

It all went fine, and i could use ubuntu booting off the USB stick. Since then, i've sold it and left the stick with me.

Now, i'd like to use the mem stick for something else, but it says its total capacity is 1.3gb. I thought this would be due to partitioning or formatting or something, yet when i right click to format, it just says the max size is 1.3gb!!

Is there anything i can do to RESTORE it to a 4GB size!? I dont have the eeepc anymore, so can't try formatting on that.If you have access to a Windows XP system you might try solution III from BEFORE POSTING flash drive problems.

Or How do you format a USB flash drive under Windows XP?.

Basically they are both SUGGESTING you use Disk Manager utility of Windows XP to repartition and format the USB flash drive.  All data currently on the flash drive will probably be LOST if you do this.  You should give some thought as to which file system you want to use, FAT (aka FAT16), FAT32, or NTFS.  If you want different file system for use with other operating systems, I guess you'll have to format it somewhere else.

ok so a couple of months ago i removed the thermal pad from my intel q8400 and replaced it with arctic silver 5 thermal PASTE cause i was told is was much better so i turn my comp on the idle temps are fine in core temp HIGHEST core temp was 41 so i TESTED it with MW2 also i would like to add my failsafe on core temp is 90c i played for like 15min then my computer shut down do to over heating i followed arctic silvers instructions i dont know what i did wrong here's my Comp stats

OS:Windows 7 ultimate 64-bit
Mother bored:Gigabyte G41M-ES2L
Processor:Intel core 2 Quad Q8400 2.66GHz
Memory: 4 gigs of DDR2 800mhz
Video Card: Nvidia Geforce 9800gtx+I can only imagine there would be too much thermal paste on there. Too much, in my experience, is worse than none.
The other option is that one of the retentsion clips for the heatsink is not clipped down correctly.

How much thermal paste did you apply to the cpu?I fixed it the fan was not clipped all the WAY down  thanks

Just Installed geforce4 mx4000 but moniter goes to standby on boot


have just installed a GeForce mx4000 64mg card to my COMP i then booted and installed the drivers from the driver cd which CAME with it, it then wanted restart after installing and it does ok but then as it just starts to load win screen were you enter your password the moniter goes to standby and i cant get it back on and i dont think there is anything going on in the background. any help would be great. the only way i can get in to win is by going to SAFEMODE

my sys specs

win 98se oem
256 ram
20gb hard drive
15inch relisys moniter
1.3 amd duron
pc chips mb m810
the card i just installed is a {Aopen power gpu geforce mx4000}
I've had problems like this with my ATI/Radeon 9000 Pro

Even though it came with drivers to use for Windows 98, it did not seem to support it properly.

I moved on to XP and it worked like a dream. The nightmares just came after getting used to XP.

Maybe the resolution is too high to work with, try setting the resolution to 640x320 or 800x600 in safemode and see if that helps.

I don't think I can be of anymore use.I've had situations like this and fixed it.Go to save mode and disable your onboard DISPLAY driver  by using the device manager.After that restart the compter and everything will now work like charm.You are responding to a post from 7 years ago. How did you even find it?there has been a lot of "bugmenot users" posting lately.

i have an old TV with a coaxial cable port. No S-video or RCA port.
I NEED a connection to watch movies from my PC to the TV.

JerryYou can solve the video COMPONENT transfer but i don't see how you can achieve the audio transfer if there are NO audio external source input connections on the tv. Here is an example of a co-ax cable input video transfer.
http://askbobrankin.com/tv_as_computer_monitor.html
truenorth QUOTE from: Jerry72 on January 08, 2011, 10:04:18 AM

i have an old TV with a coaxial cable port. No S-video or RCA port.
I need a connection to watch movies from my PC to the TV...

so i stupidly decided to 'clean' my computer right out, deleting many old programs i never use anymore. in doing this i have somehow deleted whatever it is that makes my computer make noises! have done a system restore, and while that didnt bring back the sound it did bring back the 'digital output device'. but still no sound. have spent two whole days sitting here playing around with things and cant fix it, any ideas?? Quote

so i stupidly decided to 'clean' my computer right out, deleting many old programs i never use anymore

deleted whatever it is that makes my computer make noises!

have done a system restore, and while that didnt bring back the sound

have spent all day transferring all my pictures, movies etc onto an external hard drive and will wipe it all clean and start again tomorrow i think.

I have just set up another computer and when I tell it to sleep or it automatically goes to sleep I can't wake the computer because it cuts power to all the USB ports, so that includes the keyboard and mouse. In addition for some reason the power button will not wake the PC. I have tried changing the ACPI settings to S1, S3 and S1&S3 (S5?). I can't find anything else under the power or USB settings also there doesn't seem to be anything useful in the BIOS UPDATES. I'm sure that getting a PS/2 keyboard/mouse would solve the problem but that would be complicated as they are outdated.

My current solution is to disable sleep, has anyone else got a better solution?

============================================
Motherboard:
ASUS M2N4-SLI
Processor:
AMD Athlon 64 X2 4200+
RAM:
1024Mb DDR2 533 (1024Mb on order)
Graphics:
ATi Radeon 3870
OS:
Windows 7 x86
============================================Hey dude,

Just into this link here:

http://dlsvr03.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/socketAM2/M2N4-SLI/e2670_m2n4-sli.pdf

And go down to page 40, this hould HELP you solve your issue

Kurtis Quote from: Accessless on January 03, 2011, 02:50:36 PM

I'm sure that getting a PS/2 keyboard/mouse would solve the problem but that would be complicated as they are outdated.

what?

Hey dude,

Just into this link here:

http://dlsvr03.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/socketAM2/M2N4-SLI/e2670_m2n4-sli.pdf

And go down to page 40, this hould help you solve your issue

Kurtis

Ya, I'm with BC_P at first i thought that your mobo did not have a PS/2 port, but it does. So what is the problem with having a ps/2 keyboard or mouse?

Ya, I'm with BC_P at first i thought that your mobo did not have a PS/2 port, but it does. So what is the problem with having a ps/2 keyboard or mouse?

1) Instead of "sleep" you can set the power options to disable the hd & display after a defined period of inactivity. Easier on the system and flawless.

2) You can change the power options to not disable usb.

Thanks although I'm not sure how that helps.

Motherboards have these jumpers on them that allow you to set whether or not the USB ports are disabled during S1, S3 and so on.
I believe these jumpers are set to the 'disabled' position currently. Changing these jumpers on the motherboard will keep the USB connectors powered and operational during sleep mode.

2) How do I do that exactly?

Go into Power Options in the Control Panel and check the settings for USB for your power plan

I have two hard drives installed in my machine. The 1st contains all OS files and the 2nd has all user files, music, videos and so on.

 The issue I am having is a minor one but it gets ANNOYING. When I'm using my computer and say I want to browse to user file hard drive the drive takes a few seconds to boot up whilst the machine has already been running for a while. So when I want to go to a music file it takes time opening and then I can hear the 2nd hard drive BOOTING up and then it WORKS. After this it works fine and I can access these files easily. But say if I don't access the 2nd drive in a while then when I do need to re-access it seems as if it's shut down and then it boots up again, then allowing me to get the files.

Any suggestions tweaks I can make to keep the 2nd drive active.
ThanksFirst we will need to know which operating system you are running, then we will be able to provide you with instructions to disable power management for your drives.Open Power Options in Control Panel and check the SETTINGS for your hd's. It's possible you have the drive set to power down after a period of inactivity (which isn't a BAD idea, by the way).

i have a clone motherboard and the capacitor on my motherboard is bust because i can tell from the solid liquid black substance coming out of it.what caused the problem was when i switched off the COMPUTER from the stabilizer.now when i switch on the computer,the light of the network port comes on and sometimes my powersupply and my cpu fan spins for 2 seconds and stops and when i unplug my power adaptor from the back of the power supply, it takes some TIME for the network port light to switch off.You have 2 choices:

Replace the MBoard...

Find someone in your area that does repairs at BOARD level...i'd suggest all NEW caps if the price is fair.

PS With a bad cap if you continue to attempt to use it you risk frying the rest of the components as well... Quote from: patio on January 02, 2011, 08:59:13 AM

You have 2 choices:

Replace the MBoard...

Find someone in your area that does repairs at board level...i'd suggest all new caps if the price is fair.

PS With a bad cap if you continue to attempt to use it you risk frying the rest of the components as well...

they failed for a good reason

Like i said it sits on an external cooler (Belkin is the maker). The laptop is raised and the vents are clean. I have looked multiple times online for a baseline temperature scale for this laptop and have found none.Cool 'N' Quiet is an AMD technology used on certain CPUs which reduces the CPU frequency clock and voltage (and hence its power consumption) when the load is light, and ramps them up to max (or to user settable levels) when full power is needed. You did not say what laptop model or CPU model you have. You would need to check settings in the BIOS and in Windows power options to see if Cool 'N' Quiet is enabled or can be enabled.
Yes, Cool and Quiet (never knew the name of the power stepping program) is enabled it has 3 power levels 550mgz 1100mhz and 2200mhz. Is that part of the problem?

p.s. i have a hp dv-7 1261wm 2.2 ghz dual core with hd3850 ATI GPU, with 4 gig of RAMThe core is an AMD Turion x-2 RM 74



[recovering disk space - old attachment deleted by admin]I went in your profile and saw this

Quote

AMD XM-74 dual core 2.2 Ghz. processor

I would like to mention that temp highly DEPEND UPON your power configuration...

I am using Vista and when i use Power saver mode ...surfing temp goes around 55C only.

when i use HP recomemded setting surfing temp goes to 65C..... and when i use High Performance it goes above 70C....

When i use High Performance and play game like There.com ....CPU temp goes to 90C+

My system shows following temps.

idle - 65C

Surfind - 75C

Gaming - 90C (NFS)

I think that those temperatures are normal for HP AMD laptops.....and they are too hot.  100C is the peak rated operating temperature.  Getting within 10C of that is not good.  Not much you can do about it though.  HP will tell you that it's normal.  And the computer will, most likely, survive a 1 yr warranty.  So you can face paying for a repair in year 2 or 3.

Keep the vents open.  Use the laptop on a hard surface.  Not on upholstery or even cloth.  Better yet, lift it off the surface with small supports..it improves airflow under the computer to the vents.  If you use it on your lap, locate it so that the vents are not blocked by your garments.  Finally, make sure the vents are not filled with dust.  Vacuum them periodically.

So, really my core may not have been getting as hot as I had originally thought that it had.

Sony VAIO PCG-384L doesn't turn on at all when I press the power button.

I tried taking out the battery and disconnecting from power and holding down power button for a few seconds and then plugging it back, didn't help. I tried powering on without battery, didn't work. I took the laptop apart and reseated the CPU, cleaned the dust out, and tried powering on without CD drive, HDD, RAM, and battery (connected using DC adapter).

I tested the adapter with a multimeter and it is outputting about 19.3V and the light on the adapter is on whenever it is plugged in, so the adapter seems to be okay.

What could the problem be?

Could the motherboard be dead? If the CPU was fine and the mobo still works, the laptop would at least partially turn on, right? (because right now, not even the LEDs come on). Could there be some short circuit, because looking at the board, I don't see anything that could be causing a short circuit.

Thanks. Quote from: ARK on December 30, 2010, 04:36:26 PM

...Could the motherboard be dead? If the CPU was fine and the mobo still works, the laptop would at least partially turn on, right? (because right now, not even the LEDs come on). Could there be some short circuit, because looking at the board, I don't see anything that could be causing a short circuit...

...Do you guys know if I can buy a mobo for this laptop anywhere? I can't find one on eBay...

The same thing happened to another laptop about 2 weeks ago, it wouldn't turn on at all, I was almost 100% sure the mobo had died.

I am using windows 7 and I've NEVER had this problem before. My USB wireless mouse has worked perfectly for the past year. Suddenly, today, I discovered my mouse doesn't work anymore and it says:

USB Device Not Recognized--unknown device.

I thought, maybe my mouse is broken. So I plugged my mouse into another LAPTOP (with vista) and it works! So my mouse isn't broken...I also plugged in a new mouse into my computer and the same error message comes up. This is strange...it sounds like something's wrong with my computer? What can I do?

I already tried rebooting it but that didn't solve the problem.  i hv also done a system restore......

i have tried to plug in other usb items and it is not READING anything and this stupid thing keeps popping up saying it doesnt recognize it and nothing is plugged inIf other USB devices are not WORKING...the problem is either the hardware or Windows 7 lost a driver.
To be cautious, assume something has gone wrong with the whole system. Maybe not. But be sure you have some kind of backup backup plan. Odd behavior sometimes is the only warning you get.

But most likely thing  is the wireless mouse is failing for some REASON.
Below is a similar problem from a MS forum.
http://social.answers.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/w7hardware/thread/b4688644-d04e-4210-a0b1-c2f357b62ea6
One user over there thinks other USB devices might interfere. I really don't know.Open Device Manager - any errors?i fixed it...... not sure if i should have done it this way or not but it worked.  I read somewhere to take ur battery out and hold the power button down for 30 seconds then put the battery back in and power on, it worked   i hope it was ok to do?Sure, it's fine. You just "cleared" the capacitors. Glad you got it sorted out. Thanks for posting back - and Happy New Year

Happy New Year, I have an old LG COMPUTER that I had to put a new HARD DRIVE in. I went into the bios to tell it to boot from the cd drive. It gets to the screen where it has at the bottom boot from cd. Nothing happens from there. Pressing enter doesn't help. I don't think the cd drive is RECOGNIZED. Can you flash the bios without a osDo NOT flash the BIOS....unneccessary.

Move the device by highlighting it and pressing the up/down arrow keys and/or + -...

Ok my last post i messed up on it only had the specs for my mother board here is the updated specs.

Processor 1
Name: Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Extreme CPU X9770 3.20GHz
Manufacturer: GenuineIntel
Caption: x64 Family 6 Model 23 Stepping 7
Version: Model 7, Stepping 7
Processor Id: BFEBFBFF00010677
Current Clock Speed: 3200MHz
ADDRESS Width: 32Bits
Data Width: 64Bits
SOCKET Designation: Socket 775
Verified Hardware Device against Order: CPU-3.20C2EQX9770
Verify Correct Processor Frequency

Case Color: New Background


System Memory

Memory Module 1
Capacity: 1024MB
Bank Label: DIMM #1
Mem_Type: DDR3
Mem_Frequency: 1332 MHz
Verified Hardware Device against Order: MEM-DDR31GB1333AW114
Memory Module 2
Capacity: 1024MB
Bank Label: DIMM #2
Mem_Type: DDR3
Mem_Frequency: 1332 MHz
Verified Hardware Device against Order: MEM-DDR31GB1333AW114

BIOS Information

Manufacturer: Phoenix Technologies, LTD
Name: Phoenix - AwardBIOS v6.00PG
Version: 6.00 PG
Version: ALWARE - 42302e31

Motherboard Information

Manufacturer: alienware
Product: alienware
Serial Number: 1
Version: 2
Verified Hardware Device against Order: MB-EVGA132CKNF79B1
Verify correct motherboard
Audio settings for DVD PLAYBACK set to 4 Speakers
Power settings optimized

Video Adapter

Caption: ATI Radeon HD 4850
Adapter RAM: 512MB
DriverVersion: 7.01.01.798
Verified Hardware Device against Order: VID-VISATIHD4850-512
Connect Power Cable
Test Video Card

Hard Drive(s)

ST325041 0AS SCSI Disk Device
Model: ST325041 0AS SCSI Disk Device
Size: 250GB
Total Heads: 255
Total Cylinders: 30401
Total Tracks: 7752255
Tracks Per Cylinder: 255
Verified Hardware Device against Order: HD-SEA250GBSATA16MB
Verify Correct Hard Drive Size

Optical Drives / Other Storage

HL-DT-ST DVD-RAM GSA-H55L ATA Device

Operating System: Microsoft Windows VISTA Home PREMIUM


DirectX Version: 10

Ok so all i want to know is what is a fair price for selling this desktop?It also has liquid cooling

I tried to hook up my cousins old printer to my PC and they didn't have the disk to load it and i don't know how to get it to do anything Ive tried a million times...In order to USE the printer you must install the device drivers. The device drivers for EPSON products can be found on their website: Epson.com. Once you select your REGION you should CLICK the Printers & All-in-Ones under the Drivers & Support option on the menu. Then just type the name of the product you need the device drivers of and you will be directed to its page.

With the holidays coming up, i've decided im getting myself a new computer, but im having trouble out a few of the final components.
so far:
CPU : AMD Phenom II X4 965 3.4GHz PROCESSOR (125W)
http://www.pricebat.ca/AMD-Phenom-II-X4-965-Black-Edition-3-4GHz-Socket-AM3-125W-Quad-Core-Processor.p_10166064/

Motherboard: ASRock 880GXH/USB3 AM3 AMD 880G USB 3.0 HDMI ATX AMD
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157200

RAM:G.SKILL F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL Ripjaws 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1600 CL9-9-9-24 240PIN DIMM
http://www.pricebat.ca/G-SKILL-F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL-Ripjaws-8GB-2X4GB-DDR3-1600-CL9-9-9-24-240PIN-DIMM.p_10102336/

Soundcard:Creative Sound Blaster X-FI TITANIUM - PCI Express Sound Card
http://www.pricebat.ca/Creative-Sound-Blaster-X-FI-TITANIUM-PCI-Express-Sound-Card.p_10092846/

Tower:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=262&products_id=4269&zenid=b6b35d1f5d69c68cbf2ccf155be26c27

what i need to still find is a graphics card that can support 2 screens that, double check that these parts are compatible and that this will LAST me a little while, as well as which POWER source should i go with, there is a drop down menu on the page for the tower to choose from at the bottom. PLEASE AND THANK YOU!Dual Video is easy to accomplish and most video cards have it as an option these days. The biggest killer of video cards I have found is people not cleaning their fans, so the fans get packed with dust and then the GPU roasts. And cards with passive cooling usually are inadequate at disipating the heat and you can roast an egg on the surface or give yourself a blister touching one in operation. What I have done in the past is mount a 80mm fan in a neighboring slot to the video card blowing on it so that there is more than adequate airflow, then make sure your case has a good airflow to vent all the heat out the back. Then you get years of operation out of the video card until it is obsolete and you need more graphic power. For games I have had to upgrade video cards about once a year to stay up with the times, however if you dont play the latest and greatest games you can get more out of them, up to 5 or 6 years depending on the games etc.

ks.Hello

I have a Compaq CQ 61 LAPTOP but still find it a bit tedious having to dis-connect my printers and other perphials when I want to take my laptop away.  The ideal solution would be to have docking station.

My question is do i need to have one that is solely for a Compaq Cq 61 and if so where do I get one because I have struggled to find one.  Or do I need something that can be more generic and m y question is again where would I find one.

I am somewhat expierenced with computers and at the moment I ma having to use a desktop and a laptop and I want to get rid of the desktop.  Could you please give me some ADVICE please.  Many thanksWhen USB became prevalent, docking stations are no longer necessary or even manufactured.  Your computer has no docking station port.  You're better off with a USB Hub.  Don't get rid of the desktop, you'll need it when the laptop goes out, which it will, because they are disposable computers and virtually impossible for the average user to repair.Just to add to what advice CC has given. If a USB hub is in your future to solve your issue then my recommendation would be to buy a powered one . This GIVES the greatest chance that all your peripherals will work a non powered one might not work for some of them.
truenorthGood point TN.  Leave the powered hub on the desktop, when traveling with the laptop.Another idea: network the desktop and the laptop, so that you can print from the laptop to the printer while the printer is connected to the desktop.

of course, that has the additional problem of requiring the desktop computer to be on in order to print...

On the topic of newer computer and docking stations/port replicators, I was ACTUALLY wondering that to myself a few days ago; I never considered the possibility that they were simply made redundant by USB hubs (probably because my older Satellite has a Port replicator/Docking connector as well as a single USB port).

Quote from: BC_Programmer on November 30, 2010, 02:42:21 PM

...On the topic of newer computer and docking stations/port replicators, I was actually wondering that to myself a few days ago; I never considered the possibility that they were simply made redundant by USB hubs (probably because my older Satellite has a Port replicator/Docking connector as well as a single USB port).

i upgraded to win 7 and i cannot get the camera upload to the pc to work

i found the camera prog; in the old hard drive but it will not open

the camera DISC will not load to pc

i tried to find " run " to run the disc but cannot find it

i'm lost , i think i'll have a lay down  What happens when you plug the camera into the USB port now? Does anything appear above the task bar indicating "new hardware found"? truenorthyes , but its in hidden icons i CHECKED before i unpluged itHarry, This is a real stab in the DARK--doing extensive research on your behalf (had to go many google pages deep) before i came across a similar problem that DID result in a cure. I would suggest you have a look at this and see if it can help you.
"From more googling around, I found the solution. In Device Manager,
under View, click on Show Hidden Devices. Expand Universal Serial Bus
Controllers. If any of the entries are shown in gray, right click on
each and Uninstall it. That's it. I didn't have to reboot for the front
ports to start working."
good luck,truenorthWhy can't people ever go further than 2 pages into Google searches anyway?  I always try to go at LEAST 10 deep before asking a question (unless after a couple they all become links to one page or something stupid like that as the case often is).thank you i will let you know what blows up  one thing what COLOR should they be and what happens when i uninstall what do i do then

they look grey to methank you truenorth , that fixed it downloaded all the photosFantastic! Glad to have been of help. truenorth

I have PLACED a second sata DRIVE on my motherboard it is brand new and i haven't formatted it. It is showing in the bios raid listing and is switched on.
I can see the drive serial number and name in the boot up, along with the os drive and the dvd drive. However when i LOOK for the drive in windows it isn't there.
I am running a dell machine with xp sp3, i have tried changing the positions on the board and it still shows my os drive and dvd fine ?
What am i missing ?You need to format it in Disk Managementit isn't showing in the disk management but it is definitely showing when it boots up. Im realy puzzled.
If it show at POST it should show in Disk Management, but okay - let's try this.... Boot to an OS disk and format it at boot (make sure you format the correct drive).IL try that and need to find a disc though im sure i have an iso somewhere. IL let you know tommorow.  Quote from: Allan on November 21, 2010, 12:12:25 PM

You need to format it in Disk Management

Disk must be initialized (create partition) prior to formatting.  Also done from Disk Management.

it isn't showing in the disk management

Hi all,

I've tried numerous other forums (including logitech's forums) and I can't seem to get a fix for this.  I have a wireless optical mouse which works great for me on my windows 7 platform.  It's really old now so i've tried to purchase a new wireless mouse (this time laser). Both my new mouse and old mouse have the latest drivers installed.  Here's the odd thing.....if i get a piece of paper and draw a circle on it and then trace that circle with my OPTICAL mouse over and over, my cursor on the screen does the same and that circle stays in the same place on the screen.  However, if i try to do this with a Logitech LASER mouse (I've tried 2 different ones now). The circle will slowly move down the screen even THOUGH I'm continually circling the same spot on the mouse pad.  It's almost as if it's slowly drifting down.  I can also see this if I move the mouse up and down in a 2 to 3 inch range on exactly the same place....the old OPTICAL mouse will remain in the same place as I do this, but the laser mice will slowly move down even though the mouse is not leaving the spot where the line is drawn.  I've tried turning off the mouse acceleration, trying different mouse pads, moving any interference items like routers or cell phones....all to no avail.  All the drivers are up to DATE as well.  Most people who just surf don't notice this but a gamer does....any suggestions?  Thanks for any advice!  I'm hoping someone else has had this problem.

Best,

SpdMost later model logitech mice are great for gaming, I use one myself and have had no issues with it.

First check the table is flat and not sloping a bit. Laser mouse should be way more accurate than an optical.

Next make sure if also using a touthpad, etc, it's not interfering - if so disabled it.

Changing PS/2 port might solve your problem, USB CONNECTION is much better to use.

It could be your purchased mouse is faulty, if still under warranty you should be able to get it replaced for free.

I would also suggest going wired for any mouse, it's annoying for gamers due to LONG hours playing + batteries = instant death and also interference from other electrical devices such as your sound system, monitor, etc. Also don't use a wireless for the net when online gaming, lag and more interference!

I use the Razer mousepads, it's a large surface SMOOTH area and the texture on those makes the mouse high accuracy - great for hardcore first person shooter games.

Recently,I found a site which is only saling LAPTOP and laptop accessories,products in this website is very cheap,After a PERIOD of observation,I found this site usually has a NUMBER of discounted activities.If you want to order hardware,PLEASE ask me,then I will give the link of the website.

Hey, not sure if this is the RIGHT FORUM, but I'll continue anyway....

Up until yesterday, the desktop computer in our home, which is directly connected to the wireless router has been connecting to the internet with no problems. However now when I try to use the internet it SAYS 'This computer is connected to an unidentified network', and I cannot use the internet.

HOWEVER my laptop, which is wireless and the other computer, which also uses a wireless card can CONNECT to the internet fine.

Does anyone know the problem?

Any help would be greatly appreciated...
assuming you are using windows vista?yepTry here: http://www.chicagotech.net/vista/unidentifirdnetwork.htm

I have a P/B istart 1379( Bag of poo)  I upgraded the processor from  a celeron d 360) just enough to run vista badly, and the processor t E1200 and 2mb of ram INSTEAD of 512k comp FLIES  with the upgrades I have done so far<
  But can I fancy doing followinga e1200  to a celeron e1600  .I HOPE without having to update bios again as the link to Pb/UK has stopped
I seam to remember I can have any chip up to a Pentium e2220 but it is the bios upbate I am thinking of
mobo is a crap rc1415 made for P/B
All I want to do is go for a e1600/e2220 s 775 800mhz chip at 6nm
rc415 mobi s775(OTHERWISE NAMED as rio)To avoid any headaches down the road and avoid wasting money i'd suggest shopping for a MBoard/CPU combo kit...

HI everyone:

I have a Gateway 420GR, XP, Pent 4, 2G RAM, 160GB SATA, Intel 915GV. 

Symptoms:  From a cold boot there is no screen, no access to CMOS.  The CPU fan COMES on and runs and runs very loudly and never stops.  The CD drives have no power but the hard drive does spin and the case fan comes on also.  This happened once before and I switched the hard drive cable from one SATA connector on the motherboard to another connector and it all went back to normal.  That was about a month ago.  There are 4 SATA connectors on the mobo.  None of them work now.

I've taken the RAM out all but one module and switched them around with no response.

I've taken out the PCI network card.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.I would return the HDD back to the SATA1 connector...
Then borrow a known good power supply of the same wattage or greater and swap it in there.
You'll know right away if this is the issue...Patio -- Thanks for the quick response.  What I didn't tell you was that in my frustration I had taken the whole system apart in an attempt to try another motherboard -- an attempt which failed.  So following your instructions, I put the system parts back together intending to use a different power supply but didn't have one.  So in a "what have I got to loose move" I simply used the ORIGINAL power supply because it was the only one on hand today and it booted right up.

I agree with your thought to look at the power supply which is probably failing.  I'll go right there next time.  Thanks again.Good News...
And THANX for posting back to let us know...

PS> Do yourself a favor and don't buy one of those 20 Dolllar specials...

I'm LOOKING for a screen replacement (computer accidentally thrown) - seems tricky finding the EXACT replacement needed. Asus estore gave me the N80VB screen model as what I needed but there are TWO listed on their site - ONE being out of stock for couple weeks. Question is which one do I need and where can I GET a new one. I am in Boston Mass.

N80VB-1B LCD TFT 14.1' WXGA GLARE (LED)
Item#:
18G2414069K1
Price/ea.
$201.59
(out of stock STILL)

LCD TFT 14.1' WXGA GLARE
Item#:
18G2414069F5
Price/ea.
$214.50
Replaced Part # 18G241406H14

I have come into possession of TWO rather nice 70-odd gig HDDS to get a raid system up and running. There on 80PIN SCSI connectors, and I GUESS I will need a suitable SCSI card etc. Sorry can't give make and number as they are at a friends

If I sorced and used second hand parts, cables, power SUPPLY etc, COULD you have a guess at how much the parts might be in total (ballpark figure).

By old style memory i mean the type that uses a ribbon, the other one that came with the computer is the new configuration which has a slim red cable (for the memory drive).

I have put in it some ram, an old type memory drive and a nvidia geforce 8500 gt graphics card.

Please post if you have anything helpful to contribute rather than sarcasm.

I have taken futher advice and it was suggested it may be the card itself that is faulty, so i am going to test it on another computer. I'll keep you all posted (no pun intended!) thanks for the help.

My 8600 die from overheating but it could STILL show the bios posting and it will show the desktop if it is at 800x600 resolution. This made it useful for making sure that a PC worked before installing it in the case. I just put it BACK in the ORIGINAL machine to set it up for FOLDING. However it is not showing the post screen. Is it totally dead now or is there a way to bring it back enough so that I don't need to pay for a new card?Recompose your post so that it makes sense enough for us to troubleshoot the issue...uuuuuh ok.
My video card over heated. But it still showd the bios post. It no longer shows the post. Does anyone know temperary fixes to make it at least show the bios again?
Simple enough?If it does not show in the BIOS chances are it is dead.
You could swap it into another machine to confirm this...

The hard drive in my HP Pavilion a800n died.  I looked up the info on the specifications of my motherboard, ASUS A7V8X-LA, and based on that I thought that I needed a SATA HDD.  When I opened the thing up I realized that I needed a PATA.  Should I send it back and get a PATA, use an adapter, add new components to make the HDD compatible, or something else.  I have always had a lot of luck with the help that I have received from this site and I would appreciate all advice and opinions on this matter.  Thank you very much.Your motherboard has 2 SATA connectors.
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&docname=c00069442Thank you for your response.  I read that.  That is the info that I was using when I bought the HDD, but the old drive was connected via PATA.  After reading what I could from other threads, I am under the assumption that the 2 SATA ports that I have are being used by my DVD-ROM and my CDRW.  I am mostly in the dark in this area... 

Am I wrong in my thinking that the optical drives are using the SATA ports? 

Am I only missing the SATA connecting cable?

Is there another cable inside the box that I should be using?

I appreciate any help that any of you give me.Well, look and see. If both optical are using both  SATA, then you would have to forgo using one of them.
Be careful with the SATA cables.

You best option is, I think, is  to exchange if for a PATA and keep you machine in its original CONFIGURATION. Quote from: Beedub245 on NOVEMBER 04, 2009, 07:38:47 PM

Thank you for your response.  I read that.  That is the info that I was using when I bought the HDD, but the old drive was connected via PATA.  After reading what I could from other threads, I am under the assumption that the 2 SATA ports that I have are being used by my DVD-ROM and my CDRW.  I am mostly in the dark in this area... 

Am I wrong in my thinking that the optical drives are using the SATA ports? 

Am I only missing the SATA connecting cable?

Is there another cable inside the box that I should be using?

I appreciate any help that any of you give me.

This is what I am about to purchase.  It seems to be all of what I need.  Hope that I am right.

http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SY-CAB40004-Molex-15-Pin-Inches/dp/B002G1YNPO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1257484724&sr=1-5

Syba SY-CAB40004 Molex 4-Pin to 15-Pin SATA Power Cable and SATA Data Cable (14 Inches)

I've read that HP disabled the SATA ports on these computers....

Considering an external USB enclosure.
Looking around www.newegg.com

This will be for use with plain old IDE hard drive(s).     Desktop - 3.5 inch.

They start at $15.

Anything in PARTICULAR that you can say,  as to how to go about choosing one?

For example - is there a brand name or model that you'd recommend?
or... recommend to avoid?

Thanks http://www.google.ca/search?sourceid=navclient&aq=3&oq=external++hard+drive+&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4GZHZ_enCA241CA241&q=external+hard+drive+enclosure
truenorth Quote from: truenorth on November 25, 2009, 03:24:10 PM

http://www.google.ca/search?sourceid=navclient&aq=3&oq=external++hard+drive+&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4GZHZ_enCA241CA241&q=external+hard+drive+enclosure
truenorth

It must have AC adapter.

Aluminum case might be good, it's going to get hot in there.

I'm not a big fan of the external 3.5's, too much power, too much heat.

This co. has a pretty extensive line of enclosures.

You've got it right on all counts.  Fan's gonna be noisy.
Does it really need to be IDE?  Just trying to find a home for an old hard drive?

If no and no, then consider 2.5in WD Passport or Seagate FreeAgent.  320GB are $70.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817193022

I recently grabbed a pair of these...

but i didn't pay that much.

Rugged...tales both IDE or SATA HDD's and i've had no issues with heat dissipation.

This co. has a pretty extensive line of enclosures.

I'm not familiar with that brand but, for only $19.99 plus shipping,

this one looks interesting:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817193067

Buyer reviews of it are fairly positive.

You might also want to look for one with newegg.com's free shipping offer in effect.  They seem to be offering free shipping on more items than usual, perhaps to stimulate holiday season sales.

Yep...same co. soybean.
The only difference with mine is the feet is the entire width/length of the enclosure.

Heres all the ones newegg stocks...

I bought locally...for the same price Soybean mentioned.

The description limiting drive size does not make any sense to me...

I suspect everyone older than grade school knows this, but I was never quite certain and couldn't find it in the faq.  If I have data in my hard drive, DELETE it, run it through the recycle bin and empty the RB, is that data actually removed? 

I suspect it is not gone, but merely marked to allow OVERWRITING.  If so, can it be retrieved?  Or, truly erased?  I don't have this problem, but would like to know.

If it is still there, does the computer ever encounter trouble writing over old material compared to empty HD space?  That's what I really want to know.

Thanks,
Dennis....Windows XP home, average hardware otherwise.  Quote

I suspect it is not gone, but merely marked to allow overwriting

If so, can it be retrieved?

Or, truly erased?

Hey folks.

I've recently enquired a friend about his PC because he is selling due to him accquiring a new PC. I just need third party opinion to help me make a decision.

I currently wish to buy a PC which can manage to play games a at a good FPS level without the issue of having to restart every half an hour LIKE my old PC use to. Games will vary, so that means the specs for the game will vary too.

Here are the current specs of my friend's PC:

• 2GHz Processor
• 2G RAM
• Nvidia 6510le
• Windows Vista

Just REPLACED my old Newton 160W power supply with a new iMicro IM400W one.
Now there is a constant BUZZING sound from my speakers & tremendous interference with any AM radio in the house. Any SOLUTIONS? You may have answered your own question. The new power supply may very well be the problem.  Borrow a PSU from another PC. If that makes a big difference,  SEND the suspect  Power Supply back to the vendor after you get a RMA.I would return the PSU for one that isn't a 20 dollar special...
OCZ
CoolerMaster
ThermalTake

These are just a few quality Brands...there are OTHERS.

I got a new Toshiba Satelite laptop a couple months ago and it promptly got dropped. The screen broke and the system froze. I replaced the screen but the OS would freeze after a minute or so after booting up. I have run multiple tests but cannot determine what the problem is. I know the processor works- laptop boots and runs fine until freeze up. The ram works- ran memtest ISO and found no problems. The hard drive seems to work- once again system boots up and I can access different programs (for a minute). The DVD drive works and I can use Knoppix ISO all day long. I even got a new hard drive and figured I'd just reformat but the installation disc tells me a fatal error has occurred and  will not install. I tried to run a HD eraser ISO (nuke) but that wouldn't go either. I'm out of ideas. Any thoughts? What to try next?One word...

Warranty.Well, I suppose I will try to TEST the warranty but I'm sure they'll realize I dropped it and it won't be covered. Worth a shot though.....I guess. Running Knoppix on it right now. At least it does that.So, you can run a Knoppix LIVE CD with no problems?  I wonder if there is damage to the board or another part of the system, such that when it makes calls to the hard drive for information, that's what causes the failures?Well, I would tend to think that myself exept for the fact that it will indeed read and write to the HD for a short time.  WHY does it stop?? If in fact the MB is broken, it would NEVER work.How much ram do you have?Did you take it out and reinstall it? Quote from: patio on July 23, 2009, 04:47:29 PM

One word...

Warranty.

That would have been the "Beware of falling PSU's Topic" if i remember correctly...

Comp was running a bit warm, idled at 45C, ran games at 75-80C.  Not horrible, i7's run hot, but it was still warm.  Just bought a Scythe Mugen 2 heatsink and temps went up 5C  Air flow in the case should be good, kept the thermal PASTE to a thin coating.  I did notice, however, upon picking up the heatsink, that instead of leaving a full plate imprint on the CPU, it was more of an I shape.  Not enough SURFACE contact maybe?  Also, when I booted up the comp, it registered the "new" motherboard, said hit F1 to configure system settings, F2 to load default settings.  I just loaded default, that's ok I assume?  Any other suggestions would be much appreciated.  Need to take out the motherboard for the backplate installation, and disconnecting everything, tweeking, and rewiring only to see RealTemp show high temps again is getting old.

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/UgarteTheRogue/003.jpg
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/UgarteTheRogue/004-1.jpg
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/UgarteTheRogue/005.jpgAm I to understand that you installed the Mugen without the backplate?

In the pictures, you have the fan facing up.  The air runs right into the PSU. If it's possible, I would think that having the fan blowing thru the HS and out the back of the case would be preferable.  Since you had a 'weird' thermal paste pattern, you might try using a small rice sized grain in the center of the CPU and let the HS spread it out.

Did you really get it to stay without the backplate? Really?

Post your temps after you get done!  I removed the motherboard to install the backplate, just saying that it is getting to be a hastle, seeing how everything is reconnected each time I want to start it up to view temps 

I'm stumped on airflow, having it blow halfway into the PSU isn't good, I'm sure, but 3 of the 6 RAM sticks I have are tall Patriot ram with heatspreaders, doesn't leave much room on the right there.

I'll try that method for spreading thermal paste later today and see if I can't make the connection between HS and CPU a bit tighter.  PROBLEM is, the backplate screws are threaded half-way, so it's really tightened as much as possible already.

5th time's a charm?  Heh, not sure what did it, but this time around everything must have fallen into place.  Just redid all the connections the same as before.  I did try placing the blob of thermal paste on the CPU and let it spread itself with the HS this time, could have very well increased the surface contact.

Very happy with the temps now.  Idles at 35, games peak at 65, and I'm running [email protected] at 68 right now.  Heatsink is pretty darn big, though.

Kept the HS fan at the bottom, sucking in air.  Intake fan on the lower-side panel should provide cold air, not concerned with Graphics Card ambient heat.  The intake fan on the top-side had to come off to fit the heatsink, so I just threw it on the rear, blowing air out to the rear exhaust fan.  Didn't want a fan closer to the PSU or one sitting on top of my RAM, so figured that was the way to go.Congratz!  Very nice idea on the fan placement, all things considered it looks LIKE a good compromise.  Now you can enjoy what you've done so far or you can start to TACKLE those cables.

I have a HP Pavilion 7845.  I need to replace my cd drive with a CD/DVD burner and have no idea what I need to buy.  Please give the basics where to startYou can buy a usb external laptop driveYou say I can buy an external for a laptop even though Ihave a desktop?  How much do they run?  Will any type WORK?Im sorry i read your post assuming you had a lap top. Yes you can add a external drive. SINCE you have a desk top you can remove your drive & replace it with a cd/dvdrewrite drive.You either have a SATA drive or a IDE drive? [CONNECTIONS] If your board has SATA connections i would buy that drive.I have been told it is an eide but I really dont KNOW.  How can I tell?  Is it hard to replace?  Please give me an idea where to look.  I have $70  in Amazon.com gift certificates.  Should I look there?  Tforit.  Thanks againFor starters google[ideribbons]&[satacable] Have you ever taken the side of your PC case?Also google dvdromdrive> scrool down to how toAny of these (internal) will do: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&field-keywords=dvd+drive&x=16&y=13I've been told I need to get an eide ?  What's the difference?a SATA drive connects with a SATA cable. a IDE/EIDE drive connects with a IDE cable.


That machine only has IDE connectors...so you need an Internal IDE drive...
This Page  the first 9 or so are IDE internal burners along with the ones in Broni's link....
You may want to add some RAM if that machine will take more...burning uses as much RAM as you can give it.

I have a Gateway GM5474 media center PC about 1.5 years old. It's loaded with Vista home premium. I only recently began to use the media center oriented features. The Windows media center works great for OTA HDTV, and the HDMI port on the graphics card diplays stunning video on a 40 inch flatscreen LCD (no HDMI audio though). The optical drive HOWEVER will not PLAY a full-featured DVD movie. It will play bonus feature DVDs, TV series DVDs and other simplistic home-made DVDs but not an actual movie. You can hear the drive make several attempts to load the DVD but it doesn't sound right. It has no problems with CDs. Windows media center says there is no DVD in the drive when you click on play DVD. Is this a software driver issue or hardware drive issue? How can the drive read some DVDs and not others. The drive does indicate DL capability on the front.

Thanks for any suggestions. I wouldn't MIND putting in a new drive if necessary but I'm kinda pised my so-called media center PC will not play a movie DVD. Did you try DIFFERENT player?well the DVD's in question all play fine in both of my regular DVD players.

I was playing around last night with different DVD's and found the computer will play certain movies and not others. Last Samarui, American Gangster, Gladiator all play fine.

Dances with Wolves, Master and Commader, Slience of the Lambs, and others will not load and Windows Explorer sees no DVD in the drive. It has to some type of copy protection issue. I believe Broni meant a player as in another media player on your PC...
DLoad, install and try it on VLC Player...FREE.oops, of course. yes I did download VLC and it works good with the same dvds. Like media center however, with the bad DVDs it doesn't even see the disk in the drive.Just to clarify these are Factory Produced movie DVD's ? ?Yes they are all factory. Did you try those "bad" DVDs in another computer?No, but that's a good idea. Tonight I'll try my neighbor's computer. Thanks