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I have a Dell Inspiron 530S  with a 17" flat screen monitor.  Monitor has a 1 pixel WIDE vertical yellow line 14 cm from the left EDGE that extends from top to bottom.  It appears at all times the monitor is in USE, in all programs and apps.
Drives me nuts.  Dell is no help.  Out of warranty.  Anyone out there have any idea how to get rid of the thing?Same in SAFE Mode?
Did you try different monitor?Are you running the monitor at it's native resolution, or are you using a different resolution?

OK so yesterday i woke up and turned my computer on and it was working great.  I then went to church and when i came back the monitor was not RESPONDING.  I thought of it as nothing and rebooted.  When it rebooted there were $$$ signs everywhere.  even on the boot up dell logo and in BIOS.  Words were all gibberish, and computer wouldn't GET to the desktop.  I couldn't figure out the reason.  I knew i had nothing important on the computer so i ran my kilt's on it thinking that a corrupt driver was the problem.  i was WRONG.  Someone i know told me that i should remove the BIOS battery and let it sit outside the computer about 10 minutes, then put it back in.  I proceeded to do so.  When i put it back in and booted up the monitor once again was not responding and there were these irritating beeps.  The beeps were a lower and longer sound then the standard system beep.  I have no idea what to do! any help appreciated!Sounds like either your graphics card has, for some reason failed, or more likely one of your sticks of RAM is bad.

If your PC has an intergrated graphics card (built into the motherboard) then I would start by checking your RAM memory. Try removing one of the sticks of RAM (if two or more are present). If you only have one stick of RAM then you will need to acquire another for testing purposes.ok well i fixed the monitor and the beeping.  but it still wont boot correctly and the $ signs and giberish are still there any ideas?Never established whether you have embedded or actual video card....If it's a card remove and reseat the card. If you are able boot into safe mode and try "last known good configuration"...... if that doesn't work try a system restore from safe mode....All this assuming you can F8 into the choices.ok sorry for being an idiot ha.  it is a removable Nvidia card.  Taking it out and putting back in solved the MONITER problem but the money signs are still everywhere and giberish ect.  I cant do a system restore because i ran a kill disk and everything is wiped clean (i feel stupid =[...) i tried to restart bios but nothing happend.... still stuckIs the computer completing POST...do you hear a single beep at startup?dont hear any beepsDid you remove and reseat the ram?........ various searches indicate the video card may be corrupt as Accessless stated above in reply#1...try remove the card and see if the problem occurs with the onboard video....You may have to change a setting in bios.ok well i cant remove the video card as that is what my monitor attaches to i can try the ram but i really dont think that is it.well did the ram thing...made things worse the beeps are back... Quote from: computer taco on August 03, 2009, 07:35:37 PM

ok well i cant remove the video card as that is what my monitor attaches to i can try the ram but i really dont think that is it.

This is not MY description of the problem. However it is a description of my problem.

"This only seems to happen overnight or during long periods of non-attendence at PC. When it happens the window goes an off white/grey and is blank but jumps about with ghost images of the DC window flashing. Upload and DL activity continues. Can get a window back by guessing where DC is on the Task Bar and then right clicking on it and guessing wherte window minimize is on the pop=up menu. But can't use right click on any DC tab. Starts the screen jumping ang blanking.

Using VISTA 32bit SP1. with recntly released DC++ 0.750

-Same problem for me with Vista Home ver 6.0.6000, when via Ctrl-Alt-Del activating the taskmanager, the DC flashes even covers that window (except for where the mouse recently updates a row), making it difficult to end the DC process and than restart it."

To add, web browsers (any of them from Firefox, IE, to Google Chrome) seem to trigger it most often, but not always. It could just be the fact that they require more resources from the display. I don't know..
Oh yeah, another more common symptom for me is the taskbar will ghost itself at the top of the screen. Mine is on the bottom LIKE most users. It's only a ghost though. If I mouse on the bottom and click where the start menu SHOULD be... it's actually there but drops down from the top. Plus it's all choppy and broken up. It's strange.
If I try to CTL-ALT-DEL I get the WINDOWS BONG sound and the task manager won't pop up. Sometimes I get lucky and can do a normal shutdown. Upon restart it's fine.

Oh, I'm running a Dell Inspiron 530S. The computer came with Vista. (out of warranty now) The problem was there with Vista later on. I later put Windows XP Pro SP3 on. Problem was still there. So then later I bought an ATI video card. That didn't help either. I'm REALLY at a loss. I'm thinking a hardware issue, but I don't know. Maybe it's simple like when my windows explorer kept crashing. It was the right menu third PARTY shell extensions messing it up.

Any ideas??? I've searched a ton. I've found others with the problem but never a solution.

Thanks!!try reseating or replacing ram
could be a hd problem
Go here, and follow the directions.

2 of my HDD are clicking what do i do???If you're sure 100%, the clicks come from the hard drive, save your data quickly, and buy new drive.When does the monitor enter?Link to audio FILES for:  Common HardDrive Failure Noises (#1487).

Quote

Click of death on start-up - This occurs at start up, where the drive attempts to align to the start of the disk and read the drive profile and Master Boot Record/Bootstrap/Boot Sector.

Bad Head during use - Head failure during use, SOMETIMES cause by a bad spot on disk.

Bad Head

Head Crash - Head failure, caused by the head coming into contact with the disk.

Head Phaser Blast - Head failure, caused by the head getting stuck to the disk.

Bad Spindle Bearings/Motor - Spindle failure, caused by spindle motor or bearings.

Hi,

I have this laptop HP Compaq NX6125 that i seem to be having trouble in getting the wireless radio enabled.

I can see the wireless connection there in the control panel -> network connection. However, i can not get the wireless connection to work. It said "not connected". When i was hovering my mouse over the wireless connection icon which is on the BOTTOM right corner, it read "wireless connection radio disabled". I then TRIED to press the wireless button on the front panel of the keyboard but the LED did not LIGHT on. I am running out of ideas.

I wonder if anyone might be able to help me how to turn the radio BACK on.

It runs on windows XP Pro SP3.

Thank you in advanceIs this for radio or networking, I'm a wee bit CONFUSED.

Hi,
     I would like to connect my Seagate ultra ATA hard DRIVE to my new dell COMPUTER. The dell computer has a SATA 3.0b/s Hard drive currently installed. Could someone please tell me how i would go about doing this? thank you very much.  without moe info
i would have to say unplug the old one
and plug in the new one (carefule you will lose operating system)Set the jumper as slave on the back of the drive...

Hook it up to an IDE ribbon cable and a 4 pin Molex power connector...


MBoard============================Slave======Master.

When you re-boot the first time enter Setup ( the BIOS ) to see if the drive is RECOGNISED...if so re-boot.
Is there an OS installed on this drive ? ?

Having made an "our sole" of myself in a previous post, to which l hope l have apologised, thought l'd let you advise me on a new internal cd/dvd writer.
Won't tell you what l've presently got as it'll be interesting to get your opinions as to the best one. (Won't be bothered if it turns out to be the same make as what l have, but l'll let you know)
It's got to be able to read/write CD-R, CD+R, CD-RW, CD+RW, DVD-R, DVD+R, DVD-RW, DVD+RW as well as play all CD's and DVD's.
I'm not worried about dual layer/blue ray etc. as my video player cannot read these anyway.
That's the first part, and now for the silly question.
Whilst the Euro is a great thing as far as l'm concerned, it can also be a pain in the *censored*. What with the the GBP against the dollar, l can get a better deal from ordering from USA using GBP. So, whilst the cd/dvd drive hasn't it's own built in power source, can l get one from the USA and is it compatible with EU voltage?Can you explain what you are actually asking?Quantos,
I need to purchase a new internal cd/dvd writer. Thought l'd said that in the first sentence, so sorry if it was a bit vague.
RegardsDo you know if you need IEDE or SATA, those should be the only considerations really.I know we crossed swords in another thread, but IMHO you can't go wrong with Pioneer. 116 (IDE) or 216 (SATA).

Any internal optical drive takes its power from the computer's PSU. They are standardised world wide. Your local AC voltage is not relevant. Note that HM Customs can (and do) charge import duty on packages from abroad. They don't get released from the warehouse NEAR Heathrow until you pay. This can wipe out any perceived advantages from exchange rate fluctuations.

Quote from: Salmon Trout on August 07, 2009, 04:41:51 PM

Any internal optical drive takes its power from the computer's PSU. They are standardised world wide. Your local AC voltage is not relevant. Note that HM Customs can (and do) charge import duty on packages from abroad. They don't get released from the warehouse near Heathrow until you pay. This can wipe out any perceived advantages from exchange rate fluctuations.

They don't get released from the warehouse near Heathrow until you pay.

How do I FORMAT a hard drive?  It's being used now but I want to wipe out everything and start new.  How do I do this?If you are going to install an Operating System to this hard drive then the OS will format it for you.
If it is an EXTRA drive (not the one your OS is on) then all you need to do is delete everything on it.Well, I just want to delete everything off this hard drive and install a clean, new operating system.  How WOULD I go about doing that?098:

That depends on what operating system you are going to install and what operating system is currently installed.

It has Windows ME on it now and I want to re-instsall that too.Just put your the CD to install ME in the CD drive and boot up. It'll ask you at one point what partition you want to install it on. If you don't want to save anything, delete all partitions, and then select the empty space to install the OS on. It'll ask you how you want to format it (FAT32, NTFS). I recommend NTFS and don't select Quick Format.Load the recovery disk.....<.fat32.......>it will format the drive for you?.......What's the difference between NTFS and FAT32?WinMe does not support NTFS.

NTFS vs FATShows how much I know about ME Hi
I like to Format my  personal Hard drive which did not be able to recover from any recovery software.
Can U suggest me steps or any software which can do this .?

I dont need my hard drive to recover again.

I TRIED EASEUS Hard Drive Partition manager and Format opttion.

I also tried - Disk manager
I also tried Win 98 bootable and complete partition formatting

Please suggest me which application can do this task.....ANy Steps

Remember , I dont need to recover my hard drive again.................................. .....CAN U DO IT dineshverma, please start your own thread.  Do not hijack or resurect dead threads.

Alright, my computer is no biggie but.. compare and contrast for me

RAM = 2gb kingston
Video Card = ATI Radeon HD 2600 PRO 512MB DDR2
Mother board = FOXCONN MCP73M06 FAB 1.0
OS = Windows sp3
with..
Processor = 2.67 ghz Intel Pentium 4

I know it sucks never the less but geeze, the processor is just way too behind of everything else and I am TIRED of my computer being so slow.

Now... I would love to not go through the process of formatting because I like how everything is organized and last time, my hard drive lost all of its information!

All that said, it brings me to the question: Can I replace my processor with a better version without having to format my computer?

I'm saving for a laptop but that wont happen any time soon so what 'OK' processor would you guys suggest for me to buy?Before the Fact...

After the Fact...Thanks, I'll try understanding that.

Do the pictures on the first link appear for you?


Edit:
Ok so bottom line = If you don't understand what they say, don't bother trying.

I get so lost when I read that and I don't want to RISK my computer. I was hoping for a simpler solution because I think doing this takes more time than actually formatting your computer. Quote from: DanInfo on AUGUST 05, 2009, 01:42:05 AM

RAM = 2gb kingston
Video Card = ATI Radeon HD 2600 PRO 512MB DDR2
Mother board = FOXCONN MCP73M06 FAB 1.0
OS = Windows sp3
with..
Processor = 2.67 ghz Intel Pentium 4

I am tired of my computer being so slow.

I have a Gateway laptop model W730-K8X with AMD 64 mobile athlon processor. It has XP Home operating system. It has been running fine, but now when I power it up it goes to recovery and ask if I want to boot in safe mode or normal. I have tried safe mode and normal, but after the WINDOWS XP screen goes away it FLASHES a blue screen error message for about 1 second and I haven't been able to pause it the get the message number. It reboots at that time and ask if I want to boot in safe mode or normal.
Any help please.
1.  Stop the automatic boot cycle to get the information from the Blue Screen of Death (BSOD).

Tap the F8 function key once or twice a second as you reboot the machine.  (You may need  to use the F-lock key to access the function keys.)  The Windows Advanced Options menu should appear.  Use the up/down arrow keys to select the "Disable automatic restart on system failure" and hit Enter.  Hopefully the machine will stop on the BSOD.

2.  BSOD.  Record and post the "exact" error message text and/or numbers plus any offending software module it might name.  A google search on these text strings or substrings sometimes provides problem resolution.

3.  What service pack level of Windows XP Home are you operating at, if known?  NONE, SP1, SP2, SP3?
I disabled automatic restart on system failure and I was able to read the error message, which said I had a corrupt registry file, so I found by gooogling the message that I needed to possibly reload or repair XP.  I booted with my XP cd and picked repair and then after I entered my administrator password I rain a chkdsk /r and that found the problem and repaired it.
Thanks for the help.I'm glad to HEAR that you solved it and how.  Come BACK any time.

When I pull up the bios the two ide hard drives are recognized by the system correctly as master and slave but system wont BOOT up and gives me the message No drives attached.  Any ideas??  ThanksConnections....make sure your connections are secure and your jumpers properly set.I believe the connections are good and jumper settings are correct because they are recognized correctly in the bios menu.  I even switched the two drives to make sure that the bios was reading them correctly and they did in fact switch the master and slave.  I have since switched them back to the way I need them and they again are recognized correctly in the bios....Here is my exact message:

"MBUltra133 (PCD20276) BIOS is not installed because there are no drives attached"
even though it detects the two drives!  Blue screen of death if I try to boot into winXP  from the cd drive...Go into bios and see if raid is enabled and if so disable.Forgive me if this is a bit ignorant but all i see in the bios is the raid/scsi boot order.  I don't see any option for disabling raid.  I TRIED to boot up the system with both boot orders and ended with the same result. If you have any more ideas please let me know.  Thanks for all your help thus FAR!! Where are these drives from ?
Do they have an OS installed on them ?
What was in this machine originally ?One of the drives was originally from this machine, its a western digital 40G and the other is a maxtor 80G drive that came from another machine.  Neither of them have an OS on them, as I recently formatted them both in order to do a clean install of XP pro.  I have even tried just using one of them at a time to see if I could get the setup feature to start from the XP disc.  The dvd drive is also located by the bios and I put it into another machine to be sure it worked correctly and it did.  I was THINKING of installing the OS on one of the drives in another machine and then installing it into the one giving me trouble.  Would this be a waste of time??  Thanks for your help..Try the 80G first...jumper it as Master
Ideally it should be on it's own ribbon cable.

MBoard==========================Slave=======Master.

See if this works.That is the setup I have been trying, I even only put in the 80G on a ribbon cable with no slave attachment and recieved the same error message.  I don't understand how it can be read in the bios menu but not during boot up...How were they formatted ? ?
Also try it on the other IDE channel even if you have tyo disconnect the optical drive for a bit.I formatted them under NTFS .  Do I need to change anything in bios if I use a different ide controller?disable the RAID Controller

http://www.google.co.uk/search?source=ig&hl=en&rlz=&=&q=MBUltra133+%28PCD20276%29+BIOS+is+not+installed+because+there+are+no+drives+attached&btnG=Google+Search&meta=lr%3D&aq=f&oq=No.Thanks patio, you are the best.  Just needed to clear the cmos and load optimized defaults, change boot sequence and XP is loading as we speak.  Thanks so much for your help!

Hi there.
I'd really appreciate some help with this.
I've been given a custom BUILT pc through a friend of a friend. I was told there may be a virus on it so I intended to FORMAT the hard drive.
However, whenever I connect it to a monitor it immediately puts the monitor to sleep.
I've tried three monitors that work on other machines.
The monitor will stay on with the 'no signal' message until I plug it into the PC and then just goes off.
I've disconnected the hard drive and attempted the same thing but it STILL TURNS off. Could it be a virus that's TRANSFERRED to the RAM? I'm puzzled.
As I haven't been able to get any display, I am unable to post specs.Onboard graphics or addon vid card > >
Sounds like either one it is has gone South...You might try starting in safe mode to see if the graphics resolution is to high for all 3 monitors. Just an idea.  It was the video card causing the problem. Thanks for everyone's suggestions. No problem, come back any time at all.

Hi, I have a computer approximately 18 months old and the sound has suddenly stopped working. 

All I get from my 5.1 surround sound creative speakers is a hiss or buzz every time the computer should be playing a sound - this is the same for streaming internet clips, cd's dvd's and system noises.  Until Monday it was all working fine.

My system is:
AMD 64x2 5200+  2MB ram
Motherboard is ASUS M2N-E SLI
sound device listed is C-Media CM6501 like sound device (being a bit of a novice I'm not sure what this means  )

i have trawled through various posts and tried several tests and changes to settings but am beginning to think the problem must be hardware related.  All the speaker tests tell me that sound is working correctly.

I'm not sure this is relevant but ever since I got the computer I have experienced intermittent loud "bumps" (like a thud of bass) through the speakers?

Any help or advice appreciated, thanks.


First check all connections.....an rca plug slightly under stress(ex: a taut wire/lead) will cause your symptoms.........if no joy then try update the driver.

http://www.xpvistaworld.com/c_media_cm6501_like_sound_device_840.htm

Edit....I'm just wondering if theres another source for this driver.......

yup....

http://www.pcpitstop.com/drivers/download/C-Media~CM6501~Like~Sound~Device.htmlI'm probably being a little dense, but how do I download from the second of those sites (the driver appears to be a later version than the first?

checked all connections btw, seem fine.To update I have checked the drivers and it tells me I am using the latest version, any other suggestions please?Did you add any hardware or new software just before this happened.....have you tried a system restore to a restore point on Sunday or earlier?Thanks for the response, no new hardware or software added, and system restore did not make any difference either - is it possible that the soundcard (which I think is part of the motherboard  ) has stopped functioning properly?  If so what could I do about it?

Thanks again,

DaveSee if anything is conflicting in device manager.......Also GO to control panel >Administrative tools >Services.....ensure Windows Audio is enabled.There are no conflicts in device manager, windows audio is enabled.  In the "likesound device properties" it tells me the device is working properly and lists its location as: Location 0 (PnP audio device      )

Not sure if that is relevant, but trying to give you as much information as possible - and the device is enabled in the drop down menu at the bottom.Is the service enabled?

Maybe something disabled the service.Go into device manager, uninstall your sound driver, and reboot ...let the pc find them......maybe the drivers that the update says are OK are now corruptThanks guys, I'm afraid none of it made any difference though.

the device is enabled, I still hear a hiss or buzz instead of the sound I'm supposed to hear - the volume changes according to the volume level.

have tried to uninstall the driver and reboot - no change!

Any other ideas?

Thanks again I've seen onboard sound fail when there are leaking or bulging capacitors....You may want to grab a budget sound card and see it it cures the problem.....and one last  thought have you tried a different pair of speakers?

Edit

 Dave,try downloading the audio drivers from the motherboards manuf.......http://support.asus.com/download/download.aspx?model=M2N-E SLI&os=17&SLanguage=en-ustried different speakers - no change 

I guess a soundcard is my next option - what are bulging or leaking capacitors please? Will these imply the motherboard has an integral problem?Bulging capacitors can make a motherboard unusable...The capacitors are the small BATTERY shaped electronic parts on a motherboard...the capacitors have a + etched in the top of them ....they will have a domed top instead of a flat top if they are defective, and some may leak on the board or develop a crust on top as they CORRODE. Google bulging caps for a photo.ok, will TAKE a look, probably tomorrow now.

Thanks for trying to help.

Operating System: Windows XP Professional (5.1, BUILD 2600) SERVICE Pack 2 (2600.xpsp_sp2_qfe.070227-2300)
Language: English (Regional Setting: English)
System Manufacturer: powerspec
System Model: E361
BIOS: Default System BIOS
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Quad CPU    Q6700  2.66GHz (4 CPUs)
Memory: 3322MB RAM
Page File: 203MB used, 5002MB available
Windows Dir: C:\WINDOWS
DirectX Version: DirectX 9.0c (4.09.0000.0904)
DX Setup Parameters: Not found
DxDiag Version: 5.03.2600.2180 32bit Unicode


When I sat down at my computer this morning I NOTICED my disk tray was open, and a drink that was on my desk had been knocked over and spilled onto the disk that was sitting in the open tray (had to be the cat)

I took the disk out, cleaned it off and put it away. I Checked out the open try and it appeared to be dry.

Anyway now the thing keeps opening and closing every few seconds, and the USB ports in the front (under the tray) don't seem to be working/detecting either.

Is this something I can fix myself or should I take it in?

Thanks.Reboot your computer for a start.
Then check in device manager for any alerts or warnings for your player and USB ports.I would get a can of compressed air and blow it out good. No telling how long it sat after the cat spilled the drink. It may have dried up on the OUTSIDE but is still wet inside. Quote from: lectrocrew on August 07, 2009, 01:23:22 PM

I would get a can of compressed air and blow it out good. No telling how long it sat after the cat spilled the drink. It may have dried up on the outside but is still wet inside.

You didn't mention if the drink was water or some other matter that might be coruptive even when dry.

Been having loads of problems with my dvd drive, posted questions on all boards and sites, and no one has actually been able to answer my previous questions! A new problem has now arisen so, a very last question for anyone who cares to come up with something constructive:-
Don't know where you all reside, but the UK has a paper called The Daily Mail who give away free dvd's. (must be similar all over the world in other forms).
I put the dvd into the pc drive, it whirrs away for a minute or so and then sits there. Click on the drive, nothing! EXPLORE the disk and there is nothing on it (which is the same when l have been writing to dvd's in my previous postings).
But hey, this is a pucker dvd, but the drive still plays and burns cd's with no problem whatsoever.
I suppose l'd like someone to say that the drive is Kaputt (as far as the dvd side of it is concerned) so at least l know where l stand.
Or is there another reason why it can't read or write dvd's?
An DVD/CD writing drive has a read laser and a write laser for each type of disk, CDs and DVDs (different wavelength of light). Four altogether. It sounds like the DVD read laser is shot. Unless it reads other DVDs fine, in which case the disk is shot.

Two points: the Daily Mail is the crappest of crap newspapers, and this is how you spell "pukka".


The first part of your answer is brill, as it sort of means that my drive could be somewhat shot! Thank you for that.
The second part of your answer beggars belief and
I DO NOT CARE FOR YOUR ATTITUDE
whatsover.
Who cares what you think. I for one DO NOT!
The paper gives one a dvd, which if you read my question, requires just a simple answer. Should l have said it was the Financial Times just to have suited you?
Wheres's "pukka" come into it or am l missing the joke here?
Sorry ST, first bit was ok but chill out and get a life!

 Is it the only DVD, that doesn't play on your COMPUTER?
Did you try DVD in question on another computer? Quote from: willythecat on August 04, 2009, 03:57:34 PM

I DO NOT CARE FOR YOUR ATTITUDE

Wheres's "pukka" come into it or am l missing the joke here?

Is it the only DVD, that doesn't play on your computer?
Did you try DVD in question on another computer?

I recently put a new motherboard in a computer. And when i started to INSTALL windows it took me a full day to get it installed. It was so slow. Even after finally got it installed you have to click something and WAIT a very long time for it to do it. I have tried several different hardrives but they are all the same. I'm thinking it maybe the processor. Please can anyone help me.What motherboard?
What memory?
How much memory?

I would suggest taking it all apart again, and putting it BACK together.

Make sure that you are grounded to the CASE at all times.
Make sure that all CARDS and cables are seated properly.
Make sure that you have an adequate amount of thermal paste applied to the processor.

I have an old machine that I am REFURBISHING.   It is about 5 years old. It has two hard DRIVES and I want to replace the MASTER hard drive with one that is SATA driven and the SLAVE hard drive with an unused one that I have had for several year that is IDE.  I know that my motherboard has SATA/RAID ability as I have recently replaced my DVD burner with one that is SATA driven and it works fine.   QUESTION: Can I mix the two drives, and do I have to jumper them or somehow identify them as MASTER and SLAVE?   Thanks for reading this,  JIM Quote

QUESTION: Can I mix the two drives, and do I have to jumper them or somehow identify them as MASTER and SLAVE?

I have an old machine that I am refurbishing.   It is about 5 years old. It has two hard drives and I want to replace the MASTER hard drive with one that is SATA driven and the SLAVE hard drive with an unused one that I have had for several year that is IDE.  I know that my motherboard has SATA/RAID ability as I have recently replaced my DVD burner with one that is SATA driven and it works fine.   QUESTION: Can I mix the two drives, and do I have to jumper them or somehow identify them as MASTER and SLAVE?   Thanks for reading this,  JIM

I would like to get a new graphics card (see my comp. specs, you will see why ), but the problem is, the graphics card is integrated in my mobo. Can I get a better card?Without knowing what MBoard you have the specs are useless for a vid card recommendation...You must have a AGP slot on your motherboard. See these links for cards:
http://www.amazon.com/eVGA-GeForce-5200-128MB-Video/dp/B000234WS6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1248104046&sr=8-1
http://www.amazon.com/Sapphire-Radeon-HD3850-512MB-Graphics/dp/B00145CQUC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1248104143&sr=1-1
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-512-P1-N724-LR-GeForce-512MB-Graphics/dp/B001QMJ8Z4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1248104189&sr=1-1 (PCI card compatible for all PCs)Not sure how you can tell that from the specs posted....not all P4's shipped with AGP slotted boards.

 The only thing in question is this, what do you want to do.

Is it for games, if so, which ones?

Why do you think that you need a better video card? Quote from: patio on July 20, 2009, 09:47:26 AM

Not sure how you can tell that from the specs posted....not all P4's shipped with AGP slotted boards.

 

The only thing in question is this, what do you want to do.

Is it for games, if so, which ones?

Why do you think that you need a better video card?

It's for games, the integrated on-board card has 32 MB of video memory. My games require 64-128 MB minimum

I have a a Dell GX260 that seem to keep putting the hard drive to Ultra dma mode 2. The bio has a setting for hard drive to make it Quit, suggested or performance i think there's other ones but cant remember. when i put it to performance it does ultra dma 5 when you restart computer its still on dma 5 but at random times it goes BACK to dma mode 2 and i have to GO into bio and just SAVE and exit and it goes back to dma mode 5. So why does this seem to happen?UDMA2 is pretty current... a drive will not run over it's capacities whether you set it that way or not...it's resetting the option because the HD doesn't support ultra DMA 5...Sorry forget to put model number of Hard drive. The hard drive model number is WD200BB. It Says DMA/ATA100, it can be seen Here and Here . when its on dma mode 5 it does run BETTER so it should support itSorry UDMA supported....nothing higher.

pc wont boot to windows with video card plugged in,my pc suddenly wont boot to windows few hours after i use it this morning.what happens is,when i try to switch on my pc this afternoon,i noticed that when i pressed the POWER button,the light indicator for power and process did not turn on,after few seconds it turn on but no output in my monitor,and after 3 to 8 seconds it just reboot it self.and same thing happen again with the light indicator,and just repeat the same process.but after i removed my video card and used my onboard video card.it booted normally.what do you think is the problem with my video card.i checked for any blown capacitors on the video card but,i did not see any. please help me resolve the problem.Did you disable the onboard video in the BIOS when you installed the new video card?RAM might be another troublemaker. Check your RAM sticks, from my understanding RAM has a big part in the working condition of video cards.yeah onboard VIDEOCARD is disabled.this just happened after i turn of my pc this morning.an this afternoon it just wont boot anymore with the videocard.all i did this morning is watch a movie.i did nothing to make my video card overheat or somethingdid you try reseting it?yep,i tried reseting but nothing happens.i put in the video card again today.and it worked  i did not do anything i just plugged in again the video card and it WORKS now.dont know for how long it will stay working.but if anyone has encountered the same problem.or knows what is the problem,kindly help me,so i can prevent this thing to happen againWe gave you what to try.  Unless you had tried a differnt slot.Sometimes simply removing and reseating ram sticks and video cards provide enough abrasion to remove MINUTE film or corrosion from the pins making them usable again.you could try a contact cleaner an see if there not DIRTY.  A soft earse will supposbly work too.  what do you mean with soft erase? sorry, easereraser.It's the idea that one can use a soft eraser, like a pencil eraser, to clean the contacts of a sound card, video card, or RAM unit.

okay, so I bought a computer recently from an auction for next to nothing and I have it set up and running.  I haven't torn it down yet to look through it because I just haven't had the time. As far as i can see it has a dual cpu motherboard with 2 intel Xeon 3.20Ghz proccessors, and 5 SCSI hard drives set up in a RAID(not sure what kind of raid). roughly a 500 WATT psu and 2gig ram. running on Windows 2000 server..

there is soooo much stuff on this computer from the company that had it before me
i just want to reformat the drives and start from the beginning. I have a windows xp cd with a License key.

my question is : when I reformat the drives and load up XP is there anything that needs to take place before I load the new operating system or will the SCSI controller and what not lose it's settings and not work(being that I have no CD's or anything to run to reconfigure).  You will need the SCSI controller drivers for the XP install....
Grab them from the manuf. website.awesome.. I think this should work out nicely =)

pretty good buy for 5 bucks wouldn't you say?

thanks for your help hopefully thats all it will take.. I guess I will find out when I get off work tonight.For five bucks, that's finestkind!
Let us know if you get the SCSI drivers.$5??!?!!!??!?!
What idiot sold that?Not an idiot...just someone who didn't want to deal with it, anymore...or maybe they thought it wasn't working.  Or, maybe the seller thought he'd give somebody a break...  What a break!!well, the guy that sold it packaged the deal.. for five buck i got the sever explained here, another tower that i haven't even looked at yet, an APC backup battery, and a big bag of wires( mostly harddrive connectors and things of that nature). It turns out it was just sitting around in the business that closed down and they had no use for it, and didn't want to mess with it, so they sold it.. for..5..bucks.. haha.

as far as the SCSI drivers go.. I haven't made any real PROGRESS.. i got the drivers for it(it's a intel S7H01*** something..can't really REMEMBER now)
they are loaded on a flash drive.. well turns out i have to have it on a floppy.. and i dont have any floppy drives.. so gotta get some then try it later on this week..

i will post later on if it fixes the problem or if something else comes up from it.  laterWhat a deal!!!!!!!!!!well, just for a update..

I borrowed a External floppy drive from a buddy and got some floppys moved the scsi driver to the disk and booted from the windows cd.. loaded these drivers and they are the wrong ones..

so after downloading and trying roughly 16(no joke) different drivers for it I finally found the right one for it. booted up from the cd for the who knows how many time.. then it said about 15 drivers or so were not on the cd.. when i looked at the cd it was scratched extremely bad, so im guessing that was the problem 

burned a new windows disk.. this time windows xp pro media.. and it is working perfect now.. few more tweaks and i'll have a server up and running..

thanks everyone for riding through the process with me, wish me LUCK on the other tower =Pwhat a lot of work.   I see why he sold it so cheapYes, but impressive that Mr. Man -- I mean, Mr. MISTER stuck with it until he found the correct drivers!  Let us know how the rest goes!!

Hi, I just bought a WLAN Cardbus ADAPTER for this laptop (Compaq V2655AU running Windows XP) And Windows XP isn't DETECTING that it is plugged in.  The Cardbus drivers are apparently working and everything. Any suggests is welcome. THANKS.

Please note this thought is still in beta stages.

I'm looking for some information/guideance on what's involved in making a custom built machine.
I'm not sure about budget yet, as I only want some information first.

The PC would be mainly be for gaming, music, design etc. I do a lot of website design using Adobe software, so it's quite resource intensive. I'd like a fairly high-end graphics gard anyway, sound possibly high-end also. I'd like at least 4 gigs of RAM to keep up with what I'm doing.

Even though I live in Ireland, I'd possibly be buying from Newegg or someone similar in the US. Do they ship  worldwide? It would probably be cheaper to buy the parts in the US and ship them over instead of buying them here. Prices are mad here, especially now when 1 Euro = about 1.45 dollars.

That's about all I've thought about for now...

Thanks for any advice. Hey, and welcome to the amazingly rewarding world of do it yourself!  A budget is usually a good place to start as it gives the conversation some parameters.  Since you aren't to that stage yet, let me give you a brief overview of the kinds of information that will help narrow down good options for you.  I will be talking about Intel CPU's specifically as I am more familiar with them than the AMD offerings (I'm working on it).

Things that are handy to know:
1) Budget
2) Usage
3) Hardware you have or intend to use
4) Time until upgrade
5) Ancillaries (desire to overclock/case mod/specific upgrade plans/etc.)

#1 is out of PLAY.  You've given us a little about #2, but you haven't mentioned any games, or what hardware you are using now as a frame of reference.  For #3, if you have a monitor or other hardware you wish to re-use, that's handy info. And I think #'s 4&5 are self explanatory.

It will help us to help you if you can fill in some of these specifics and at least ballpark your budget (<$500, $500-$1000, $1000-$1500, >$1500). Quote

or what hardware you are using now as a frame of reference.

1) Budget

2) Usage

3) Hardware you have or intend to use

4) Time until upgrade

5) Ancillaries (desire to overclock/case mod/specific upgrade plans/etc.)

Don't scrimp on the NIC....

My impression is that those seem to be pretty good prices for your hardware choices.

my guess is anything higher than 512 Video RAM starts really raising prices?

...and you can "kill yourself" over trying to save 10 here, 20 there...sometimes, it's best to just move forward once you have the basics covered.

I don't see a NIC on there, are you just going with the integrated solution?

What about audio, is it going to be the integrated one again?

Something else to consider, many people don't is a good quality UPS with surge protection.

I tried to install a web cam but it's TELLING me no video card ,, do i need hardware or software to SOLVE this to GET it working ??

 Please advise someone if u can & if you are a Rush Fan ((the band of course)) i will mail u a fantasic concert i recorded & i'll make sure it's one that no one has even HEARD yet from 9-17-2007 NYC !!

thank u

Someone downloaded a serious VIRUS onto my computer so I GOT a friend to reboot it but nothing was deleted..So he installed WINDOWS vista onto my computer and now my VGA Graphics Adapter doesnt work....It says its working properly but no games will work on my computer. What is the PROBLEM? and what can i do?VGA graphics adapter. Maybe you need to install the latest drivers. What's the manufacturer and model of the graphics card you are using?Whenever the OS is re-installed all your drivers are gone...
They need to be re-installed.When you reinstall the OS, usually Windows provides you with generic drivers up front, so at least you can see things on your MONITOR. But to make use of all the features that comes with the card, you should install the latest drivers from nvidia, ati or intel (depending on what kind of card you have in your system).

Symptom: Installed Visio 2007 and after rebooting my monitor is not receiving an input signal.

I have run Everest diagnostics and the results are at the links below.

Except for seeing the screen on the ATTACHED monitor, the PC seems to be working otherwise.  I can USE it fine via Terminal Services.

I have removed and reinstalled my ATI video drivers, albeit an older one from the CD (about 2 years OLD).

http://www.dotjonline.com/temp/Report.txt
http://www.dotjonline.com/temp/sata_error.jpg

- Joe
Anyone have any IDEAS? ...

Hi guys,
I purchased a 1 TB WD external hard drive 3 months ago. I've noticed bad sector on it after I ran a hard disk test software. I was WONDERING if I could run a low level format to get rid off the bad sectors. If yes, what tool is recommended. Is this drive is going to keep making problems for me? Is it faulty and there is no hope for it?

PLEASE advise.

Thanks in advance,
ShazFirst, I would backup everything on that drive that is important to you.

Then run Chkdsk....

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/315265

For Vista - http://maximumpcguides.com/windows-vista/how-to-use-check-disk-in-windows-vista/

And then if problems PERSIST return it for another under warrantyThanks a lot. I ran the chkdsk and it seems that all bad sectors are now isolated. Is this drive reliable? Is there any permanent fix for it? Can I ran nlow-level format to rpir it?

Please advise

Personally, I couldn't allow myself to put any important data on that drive.......EASE your mind, return it under  warranty while you can....it can't be trusted.I agree. The only drives I've had that developed bad sectors would be well out of warranty (10-12 years), and most failed shortly afterwards.

Hi,

Could someone please help me troubleshoot this problem.
About half a year ago I bought the computer with the following specs,

INTEL Core 2 Duo E8400 3.00GHz 6M 1333MHz 45nm

Gigabyte EP43-DS3 LGA775 DDR2 1200 FSB 1600MHz 2x PCI-E x16 6 x SATA GLAN
1394 ATX

ASUS NvidiaGerforce EN9500GT MAGIC/DI/512M, NATIVE HDMI

400W PSU
500Gb WD HD

I installed three fans, on top of the CPU fan. (4 fans all up), and a second hard drive from my old computer.

About 7 months later, it just RANDOMLY couldn't get pass its intial boot.
It turns on fine, then when it GETS to its turn on buzzer beep, it gives a weak short beep, waits abit, then restarts and does the same thing.

So I unplugged all of the components connected to the motherboard. The motherboard did the same thing.
I then proceeded to connect each component one by one. It still didin't work.
I sat down waited about 10 MINUTES, tried turning it on again, and it worked.

Exactly the same thing happened about two weeks later.
I am confident it isnt a loose connection or a short.
Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this. Please help I would be very greatful.

TobyI would guess its the power supply or the board. If you can chang out the power supply>I have checked the PSU with a multimeter , and all the voltages are correct.
But I will try changing it for a new one. Is there anyway I can check if it is the PSU without replacing it?

Thanks Quote from: vadar on July 21, 2009, 08:25:00 PM

I have checked the PSU with a multimeter , and all the voltages are correct.
But I will try changing it for a new one. Is there anyway I can check if it is the PSU without replacing it?

Thanks

Hello,

I have a 3.5 floppy disk with ONE SINGLE file on it.  I can put the disk into the A drive, and I can see the file sitting on the disk.  When I attempt to open it, the disk drive sounds like it's grinding, and the file will not open.  I have tried other disks on my drive which open fine.  I have also tried this disk on an external hard drive, and it won't open.

Is there any WAY to retrieve the file from that disk?  Thanks in ADVANCE for any assistance.

Tonyyour flopy driveis brokenand needs 2 B replaced
I used Roadkil's UNSTOPPABLE Copier once to successfully read file from a balky floppy.  Worked great (and free).  I'm sure there are other programs out there.Thank you!  I tried the program and it gave me back a couple of lines.  I appreciate your help!

i have an HP Pavilion dv7-1273cl

This is a list of hardware and software:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4677955&CatId=3444

The optical drive is suppose to do more than what i need to do ( i don't have anything blue-ray but it's there if i ever do )
The only thing that i have used the drive for so far is to copy a music cd to my hard drive. It did what it was suppose to do. Last week i got a copy of an MRI from the VA which came on a CD. i put the disc in, heard it turning but nothing came up on the screen. i tried viewing the data on the CD several times but whenever i get to a place that i ask to explore, OPEN, or run, it POPS the cd out and asks me to put a CD in. i had two other cd's from the VA that i never looked at before but they behaved the same way now when i try to view them. It wouldn't surprise me if the VA didn't complete the process of copying the images so they can be read on any computer. i called them and no ONE knows anything about anything. Typical gov agency!

Is there someway of finding out if there is anything on the CD?I never heard of it.  Have you tried another machine then moveing the data over?  COULD be the cd drive in the machine   I had were I put a dvd into a cd drive thinking it would work only to realse that it wasnt a cd.Since my other computers were bugged i thought it best not to try the cd in them. My GF is comng tomorrow i'll try it in hers and see if it works.If the CD's were not finalised in the burn they will show as empty...
DLoad install and run the Free ver. of IsoBuster on them and see what it finds...I also had an MRI CD that would not open on one computer but opens fine on another. Don't know why. Is your drive DVD?BTW, another thing about my MRI CD is it takes almost a minute for the drive to read mine before anything happens, so as long as the LED light on your drive shows it's working, give it some time.Its probably the format?  What do you think PAT?  I have dual drives but some disk just wont work in some but will in others not sure why that is just wanted to see if the disk wasnt bad or anything like that.  So we know that it didnt get scratched or something.

I just bought an external HARDDRIVE, im new to computers and it's a dumb question but, I have a co-worker whom is giving me a few FILES to work on, and i just bought a new external harddrive with no Operating System installed, do i need to install on operating system or, can I view the files elsewhere?


perhaps in my PC, as drive E when i connect the usb from the external harddrive??


thanks and sorry if it may sound confusing.The drive does NOT need an OS...it should be recognised on any working machine you hook it up to...
Hope this Helps.The External Hard Drive would act like a USB Flash Drive. Simply plug and play.15 Seconds ! !

Catch me if you can.... If I didn't use capitals, I would have beaten you.....    But i use them also...moot point.    thanks friends!  N Problem...GLAD your up and running.

Let's have a thread to share our computer specifications.

I custom built my own computer. I USED a $50 foxconn motherboard. I have 4 GB Kingston HyperRAM which I overclocked by about 200 MHz. I have a 500 GB SATA hard drive with a 32MB buffer. My LEAST favorite component is the IDE DVD drive. I have an Intel Core2Duo 6320 which has a stock clock of 1.86 GHz; I overclocked it to 2.42 GHz. my GPU is the nVidia GeForce 8400 GS which I overclocked to 715 mhz core clock, 1755 MHz shader clock, and a 534 MHz memory clock. I have Windows 7 RC and pre-ordered the finale version the first day it was available  See Here...

 Athlon 1400+ (Thunderbird Core)
1.4gHz
Jetway 663AS Ultra
512mb SDRAM (Mixed)*
Nvidia GeForce 5500 256mb (XpertVision)
Asus DVD-RW (Lightscribe)
Asus DVD-ROM
80gb Hitachi Deskstar 7200rpm
1.44mb Floppy drive 
500w PSU (Magna)
GIGABIT Sitecom PCI NIC
Asus WLAN PCI Card
9 USB (8 external, 1 internal)
Creative SoundBlaster Live!
Windows XP Professional
Windows 7 Ultimate

Picture:


PC on left (Server on right Pentium III 800mHz)

RAM consists of 2x128mb and 1x256mbacer ectensa 463oz laptop
2 gb ram
2 ghz intel processor (extream overheating)
160 gb harddrive
windows vista home prem

This laptop is failing to start up PROPERLY. It says starting system then the task BAR  COMES up. But nothing comes up on the main window which is blue. The arrow works from the pad and the disk light flashed at the start. clicking on close application brought up a wine GLASS so something is happening. Clicking on shut down dos not work. DEPRESSING the onoff switch brought up shutting down, a flash of the disk light then power off.

Hello, I would like to add a little more cooling so I'm looking into trying to PUT in another case fan. okay, I know they are cheap, but I'm broke. If I got a old fan from someone, or grabbed one at a garage sale, is there a chance of it short circuiting my motherboard, or causing some sort of damage? I want to get a old one and see how it EFFECTS my temp's, and if I get the desired effect, will buy a new one Quote

If I got a old fan from someone, or grabbed one at a garage sale, is there a chance of it short circuiting my motherboard, or causing some sort of damage?

When I set BOOTABLE add in cards to boot before the hard DRIVE I get a message " BOOTMGR not found" press ctl-alt-delete to restart.
Why?
This is on my core2 quad system in my specs.What all qualify's as a "Bootable Add In Card"?
CD DVD, floppy...?I thought it would go through the boot sequence until it finds a bootable source. I don't KNOW why it's stopping at bootable add in cards instead of going to the next DEVICE in the sequence, (hard drives).

Hi,

I have 4 com ports (COM1, COM2, COM3, COM4) on my computer.

How can I know the number of each port connector? the connectors don't have any phisycal numbers on them...

 You COULD consult your computer manual. Usually it is STATED there. You could also ask google, What operating system?  Aren't COM ports assigned by the operating system?Thanks for the replies!

I don't have any manual...

Before I asked you I already searched google.

I don't think that the system will help me, because I need to know the position of the port (behind the PC) and his number

Plz I need your helpppHumor me, and tell us what operating system you're using, please.The operation system is Windows 2000HERE is some very basic information about com ports.

With older computers and operating systems, you assigned com ports to various devices as needed.  A modem often RAN from Com 1 or Com 3.  I don't believe the ports on the BACK of the computer are "numbered."  You may have a serial port and a parallel port, but I'm not sure that modern operating systems number them, anymore.I know com ports very WELL. I took a course on it.

I need to make a .Net program with the COM port.

I need to know which of the ports behind the PC is COM1 for the program.

Is there a PC program or something else, that know which port is attached? Quote

I know com ports very well. I took a course on it.

Nvidia GeForce 9800GT; part of my new build. quite pleased with the cards performance.

Runs crysis great on high settings (40-50fps average)- with one caveat - it crashes after about 20-30 minutes or so- the graphics driver crashes and I'm forced to close crysis.

None of my other games crash- HL2 EP1 & 2, NFS HP2, and a few others- but they are not as graphics intensive.


The card idles pretty high, too- right now it's sitting at 69 degrees. I ran "Furmark" to do a burn test of the GPU and the temp rose exponentially to AROUND 85 degrees, and then started moving up slower and slower. it was at 94 degrees when I decided to stop the test (this was after about 10 minutes)...


basically- how can I cool this card down? I know it runs hot normally- but when it STARTS interfering with usage it must be too hot update: running furmark now, with the side case open and a good desk fan blowing on high right onto the video card.

10K frames so far, temp is 87 degrees.Can you put in a pci slot fan to cool the card?....... Google is full of searches for similar issues with that card and overheating.
actually, that's a great idea I have one free PCI slot and I can't see myself needing it for ANYTHING, so I'll definitely explore that option thoroughly; Most seem to be fore reducing overall temps which is excellent since all my temps are a bit high.

I tried replacing the fan (which appears to be somewhat more devoted to form then function) with the fan from my Geforce 5500FX, but to no avail. I got it disconnected but the wires snaked through the metallic enclosure. I'd rather not REMOVE that


For now I'll settle for every single other game I have which runs PERFECTLY fine- crysis is just especially taxing on the GPU So it'll take a little extra care Option 1: Manually crank the fan to 100% for these applications
Option 2: Reseat the cooler with quality aftermarket TIM (non-conductive, avoid AS5 for this)
Option 3: Rig additional cooling
Option 4: Opt for an aftermarket cooler (a Duorb silently dropped my 8800GT load temps to below the stock cooler idle temps)

my unit always automatic shut down without any notice and the keyboard lights are still on.. it maybe because of over HEAT, i installed speedfan and the reading was
GPU : 54C
CPU : 43C
Local : 41C
Remote 2: 44C
HD0 : 40C
Core 0 : 40C
Core 1 : 40C
Core : 54C
Ambient : 0C

is it bad?

i also have static coming from my monitor.. is that ok? wont it affect my unit? or may it be the cause of my unit shutting down by itself..

sometimes when i turn on my unit after shutting down automatically, my monitor have no display..

please reply to this problem.. thanks Quote

i also have static coming from my monitor

i also have static coming from my monitor

You didn't explain:
Disable "Restart on error" feature...

1. Right-click My Computer, and then click Properties.
2. Click the Advanced tab (Vista: click Advanced system settings).
3. Under Startup and Recovery, click Settings to open the Startup and Recovery dialog box.
4. Clear the Automatically restart check box, and click OK the necessary number of times.
5. Restart your computer for the settings to take effect.

You may see some error message. If so, post back what it says.

how do i remove that from my monitor?

i also have static coming from my monitor.. is that ok?

hello, i have a P4 3.2GHz processor... checks in BIOS and Windows' Properties show that it is a 3.2GHz processor.

but using CPUZ, it SHOWS that the processor runs at 2.8GHz sometimes.

how do i ensure that it runs at 3.2GHz all the time?Some P4's had CPU throttling...the SPEED adjusted to the RUNNING tasks at the moment.

If you WANT it to run at 3.2 all the time then run prime 95 although I dont see why you WOULD need it to be that way if you dont need it all

I recently got a Compaq IPAQ Pent 3 but as much as I now.  There is no tags on it so I dont now what it is.  Dont think that there are any needed drivers but I'm also haveing an issue I think with the sounds comeing out of the speaker not sure if its suppose to be like that.  But I put 2k on it an everything seems to work other then that.  But I rather have the drivers an what not just in case.What does it look like?
Is it some kind of slimline case?
If so, I had one for a while, might be able to help.Its a mini, with a u shape to it an push off sides an such.  Its an older unit an has ps/2 connectors, sorry for the rush of this.  I had to do it quickly at the time.  Long time no see, we need to talk.  Mine's not quite the same, mine was some weird legacy-free version with no PS/2 ports but only 2 USB ... that was awkward to use, it really needed a USB hub if I wanted more than my keyboard and mouse plugged in.  It was very difficult to take apart, even WORSE to put back together, and extremely cramped inside.  I got rid of it quite quickly.
Yours may be better for you though, doesn't sound like it's the same one.
Good luck with it there the same except this one being an older model.  I'll attempt to talk with compaq but little to go on here.I found the drivers at:
http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/ProductList.jsp?lang=en&cc=us&taskId=135&prodTypeId=12454&prodSeriesId=96490
On searchesm it is CONFUSING between the desktop and the pocket PCs.another reason why its hard to find, also cant say if those are the right ones or not.Just an FYI for those than may be reading this thread.

I had a couple of these at different times, found both of them in the trash.

The "old" iPAQ was a desktop computer.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IPAQ_(desktop_computer)



The "new" iPAQ is a PDA.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IPAQThanks for the pictures and clarification, CC.
My old iPAQ did look like the desltop shown, but it had no PS/2, serial, parallel ports etc - just USB, network, audio and VGA.ah that makes a little more sense.  Mine only has front usb I think but it still dont know what ether of them are.  I'm not going to be able to TELL what the one is that is like CALUM's.  But the one that I want to use can be changed an what not with out troubles.They sure are weird ones, I believe iPAQ stood for "internet ComPAQ".  They were introduced about the time broadband internet was signing up customers FASTER than dial-up, around 1999-2001.

One of Compaq's last "good ideas" before being sold to HP.

Very little of it is standardized with desktop PC's, actually has more in common with some HMI PLC's (i.e. Allen-Bradley PanelView)I had the feeling when you could like add cards or anything.  Not a big deal cause of were I'm takeing it too. Quote from: squall_01 on July 22, 2009, 01:06:56 PM

I had the feeling when you could like add cards or anything.  Not a big deal cause of were I'm takeing it too.

ment couldnt.  thats evil you could like patch that or something?  Still have answered my orginal post here.

Sent in PM so creating new post for TOMLID so community can SEE and if needed reply.

Good Day
Hope I am posting the question at the right place.  I have a new laptop which will not boot up or turn on , the on light, the battery and power cord lights  come on but nothing else happens the SCREEN REMAINS blank, I send it back to the manufacture and they said everything is fine the PROBLEM must be with the poweer cord which I did not send; my broter-in-law brought a BRAND new cord and said it worked fine ( he lives in Miami) he send it back to me in Jamaica I plug it in and everything was fine, but everything is back to square one -same problem occuring - I really would appreciate your help.I'd check to make sure that the power you're connecting the laptop into is a steady power source. It almost seems to me based off your description that something is up with what you're connecting the laptop into. You may want to consider getting a UPS to help ensure a steady flow of power is getting to the laptop.

I usually recommend UPS products from APC.
http://www.apc.com/

Hello, Some time ago we turned our computer off & unplugged because of a bad storm coming. When we turned it back on it would NOT start. Nothing, only green light ticking in the back. We waited a little while & then it worked. This happened a few times & the last time it didn't come back on. So I fiddled with this & that. Made sure the button was all connected. A few times Iv 'fixed' no longer operation computers because something had become dislodged or needed to be cleaned etc. lol So I was hoping it was that simple. Nothing i knew to CHECK changed anything. So I checked the internet& did some troubleshooting nothing worked, or I was confused. Anyways I was just looking at it & thought I should disconnect the CD drive (the thing were CD'S go.) and as soon as I did the light became solid stopped ticking and the computer came right on, no problem! I am soooooooooooo happy so I plugged in the CD back and it still worked...should I do that? Is just that peice of my computer disfunctioning for some reason? Lately I have been having TROUBLE with CD's they don't always want to come out & SOMETIMES I have trouble getting my computer to read them. Should I just leave it disconnected for now & get a new one? I don't know a whole lot about the inner workings of computers just what I find on the net when i RUN into a problem. I'm not sure if I have a CD in it so Id like to check..Get a new drive...a brand new dual-layer DVD burner is about 40 Bucks shipped from newegg...
Also i hope you weren't disconnecting anything with the machine POWERED up...never do this.

I have an emachines T2682 (about 6 years old)  that was having a problem recognizing the mouse after my dog destroyed it and I got a new one, then the power supply went out, so I replaced it (today). Now, the computer powers up just fine and the lights will come on the keyboard but it will not work. I have plugged in 3 different keyboards usb & regular and a USB mouse and the pointer just sits in the MIDDLE of the screen.

I asked someone else and he suggested powering off, unplugging the keyboard/mouse and then PLUGGING the mouse back in after it was restarted.  It did not work.
I tried the ORIGINAL keyboard on a working computer (the one I'm on, which is also an emachines)...and it will not work. So I tried a keyboard that I know will work and it will light up, but not work.  The mouse (USB) will power on, but the pointer STILL stays in the middle of the screen. So, I restarted again to try the keyboard and now it won't even light up, but will still work on the computer I'm currently using.

I have also tried to use a USB adapter on the keyboard too. I have tried a regular mouse and used USB adapter to no avail. When your dog ATE the mouse was the computer powered on and was the mouse plugged into the computer? Does the keyboard work in BIOS?

Also, never unplug or plug in a ps/2 mouse or keyboard while the computer is turned on - it can make the ports useless.It was powered on and plugged in.  The keyboard won't work in bios.  Since I'm using a USB mouse and it won't work either, do you think the whole thing is shot?

Not sure if this is hardware related but I'll try posting here ...

On boot up, my Samsung LCD monitor light just blinks and the monitor itself will not start. On second boot up the monitor starts just fine but the computer's time and date has changed itself to 11pm December, 31 2006. This happens randomly. Sometimes I can go four or five days WITHOUT it happening. It's not the battery. I had it checked.

Any clues or help would be appreciated.

ThanksHave you ruled out viruses?What battery did you have checked ? ?
Sounds like a failing CMOS battery to me...I agree with patio.  You replaced the battery too, right?i'm not a pro like them but i experienced that kind of problem with the unit of my friend and i changed his cmos battery then its ok..

if your absolutely positive it's not the battery, it could be the POWER supply, too. Normall the PSU keeps the CMOS RAM refreshed instead of the Battery while it's on; if it doesn't provide enough power then the CMOS RAM can be lost.I purchased a new battery and installed it. No difference. I even had the old one checked and it was still good. My computer is only two years old.

I did have some problems with a MEMORY test. I tested all 4 sticks separately and found the third slot or bank was producing a memory error. Since I've removed the stick from that slot, memory checks out okay.

I have scanned for viruses with Windows Defender and Windows Care. Seems to be no problems there.

I checked the power supply via the BIOS settings, It shows voltage being just under 12 watts. Not sure what that means as I have a 600 watt power supply.

I'm starting think possible motherboard failure.

First person that solves this mystery gets a free beer! :-)

System specs: ASUS P5N-E SLI motherboard, Vista 64, Quad Core [email protected], ASETEK LIQUID cooled, 4 GB DDR2 Crucial Ballistic RAM, 1 DDR2 GB Buffalo RAM, Nvidia 8800 GTX I haven't seen a motherboard that measures the PSU OUTPUT in watts...

They do show voltages, however, and one of them is the 12 volt rail.Were all MBoard standoffs used when this was assembled ? ?
Is the PSU new or used ? ?
Have you visited the ASUS forums for similar issues ?

what kind of mouse do you have? (USB or PS/2 and what model is your Logitech mouse?)
[/quote
Mouse is a Logitech LX-3  USB  Problem seems to
be in installing the SetPoint software, included in the program
Hope you can help

TruNorth- I know SP-3 is not a CD but that is what the screen that comes up says, and already have SP3 installed,  Mouse seems to work OK but can't finish program install.

Hi all,

I'm having a problem with my Dell Inspiron 6400 KEYBOARD.  REALLY RANDOMLY the homerow keys have stopped working a/s/d/f/j/k/l/; 

I have no IDEA what sparked this to occur and have tried reinstalling the drivers and taking out the battery as a few other forums have told me to do but nothing has resolved the problem.  Can anybody tell me what I am doing wrong or what I can do to fix this problem?  Thanks

TurpHave you tried cleaning with compressed air?The other method is to take the keys off [mark the lay out first] use COTTON swabs & alchol to clean.

Hello All,

I'm new to this forum and would like some advice on Sound. I have a Dell Optiplex 400 which has a it's own sound from the motherboard. Has no sound card but recently my computer was invaded by a VIRUS which apparently wiped out the $winnt$.inf file. Since after i cleaned up the virus the default speaker icon which usually APPEARS by the time status isn't there. As i believe it a legacy type DEVICE and would have to PROGRAM it if order for it to work. I READ that somewhere on the internet.


But anyways what i would like to know is if i purchase a sound card place it in the open slots where the modem is if i would get the computer to show the default speaker icon at the bottom of the screen where the time is?

Thanks
Dunn



Are you running Windows XP or Vista?I'm using windows 2000 pro

Thanks

Ok ppl once again i have problems with my PC 
I had previously began a thread with regards to an overheating PC with i have solved thanks to purchasing a new bigger heatsink.
But now i try to run my System Boot Disk and i go through the paces, all the way through to the section which i select 1 C:\Windows (i think) which brings up the C: prompt
And then after a short while its shuts down
BTW if anyone can tell me which command to type after C:\ it would also help
These are the specs of my PC
Mobo: SAPPHIRE PC-A9RD480Adv 939 ATI CrossFire (please don't tell me its S**t mobo)
CPU: AMD 4200 Socket 939
Memory: 2GB DDR SDRAM
Power Supply: 750W
GFX: ATI 3850

Once again i APPRECIATE any help
Please dont tell me i've caught you out?
Anyone?What type of Windows CD is this ? ?
Sharpie Version ? ?
Seagate Book DiskA Seagate boot CD is only hard drive diagnostics...
What exactly are you TRYING to do here ? ?

Type dir /p at the C: prompt and report back with your findings.
  :-[ok scrap the CD issue just realised its my CPU
Despite buying a new bigger heatsink its still overheatingYea i'm sorry i'm back
Still with the issue of overheating. I'm running my Windows XP installation disk and everything runs smoothly when well into its installation it shuts down.
Now, i have replaced my PC with a new PSU and it still happens and yes everything is clean and i have fans running nicely in my PC, CPU, GFX card, system ETC. etc.
BTW the PSU is 500w but i dont really think thats an issue .
I can regulate the voltage to chipset and RAM via the BIOS but i am not sure whether to mess with those settings, dont want to end with a FRIED mobo Quote from: patio on May 17, 2009, 04:37:22 PM

What type of Windows CD is this ? ?
Sharpie Version ? ?

It started with a few rows of COLORED dots, but now has turned into mutiple VERTICAL colums of small colored blocks stacked on top of each other. If you scroll the screen, they disappear or reduce until you stabilize, then they start to appear again. I have switched monitors and it isn't that. Any suggestions? Video card?a problem with either the video card or it's driver.

I'd reinstall the video drivers- perhaps a newer, or earlier version. Failing that you'd likely need to REPLACE the card.So can a video card slowly deteriorate? The lines were not that bad SAY a few months ago. FYI...I removed the videocard, clean it and reinstalled but the same issues.

I can replace the video card, but no chance it would be a software issue I ASSUME?It's unlikely it's a software issue...
To see if it's the card swap another one in there and see if the issue goes away...
If so...it's the card.

I need to clear the TPM chip on my Gigabyte GA-EP45-UD3P  (Rev 1.0 BIOS F9)

Sounds easy enough,  but it has proven to be a great challenge.

What is know about doing it.

If we look at the TPM manual for this board from Gigabyte, we will find what appears to be an easy solution.  You go into the BIOS, go to "Security Chip Configuration"  and there should be a "Clear Security Chip" option.

See:

http://america.giga-byte.com/FileList/Manual/motherboard_manual_tpm_e.pdf

However when I go to the BIOS it is not there. In fact if we go to the manual for the mobo, and look at the section covering BIOS setup where each screen and every option in the BISO is covered,  and reference Page 64 (2-15) the section covering the security chip options, we find that this option is not FOUND.

http://america.giga-byte.com/FileList/Manual/motherboard_manual_ga-ep45-ud3p_e.pdf


Ok, so perhaps the chip needs to be in a cretin state for this to appear?

Well in none of the 3 states dose it appear.  And yes, I have saved and exited the BISO after each state change to it is actually applied.

OK perhaps we can do it from the software end, no luck. Try it and the machine REBOOTS and the chip is not cleared nor dose it cause this option to appear.

I have ensured the drivers and BIOS are up to date.

I have spent some time trying to find answers on google and from Gigabyte but have been unsuccessful.

If anybody has experience with this and knows something it would be very helpful, thanks!
Start computer and go into BIOS.
Set Security Chip to Disabled.
SAVE settings.
Reboot.

On restart, go back into BIOS. See if chip setting stayed at disabled.
Set Security Chip to ENABLED.
Save settings.
Reboot.

Again go back into BIOS on restart.
See if chip is set to enabled.
See if Clear Chip option is finally there.

If not... I'll be still scratching my head.
I just tried that. Was able to turn it off, reboot, it was disabled,  enabled it, reboot it was enabled, rebooted again, and sigh, no clear security chip option. Thanks for trying tho,  if you think of anything else let me know.

To be honest this dose not shock me.  If you look at the manual  is the BIOS setup part it even lists options for some of the screen with notes saying they only show up with the correct HARDWARE etc. but still lists them. It dose not list this option. 

Yet if we look at the part in the same manual about TPM or at the TPM  manual included, it shows it.

This makes the manual inconsistent.