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Ok I will try to explain so GOOD as I can.

For a while ago I GOT my new motherboard M4A79T Deluxe, on my chassi  I have a secondary MIC that I can connect too the motherboard, but I can't get it to WORK, the SOUND work but the MIC just don't work.

Anyone know what to do?

Ok so I am fairly knowledgable in the computer world, I know and understand about building computer systems, however there are so many Motherboards and processors on the market today so I would like a little help on what Processor to buy.

The computer I will be building will be for my office, I would like to use Windows 7 OS, the PROGRAMS I will use are Peachtree Accounting, Microsoft Office Word, Excel, Avery Design Pro, The Print Shop and Adobe Reader. So need to know Intel or AMD, Duo or Quad and what models you would suggest.

Thanks.

P.S. Ask if additional information is required  AMD and Intel are both good COMPANIES, and it boils down to personal preference. I have had both, and seemed to like both.

As for Duo or Quad Core, Quad will definitely be better, especially if you are trying to run multiple programs at once. However, Duo is ALSO good. If you can afford a quad core, then get it! But if money is a big factor, then Duo's are great.

As you know, motherboards and processors have to match, as well as ram, so make sure everything goes together. Here is a list of deals off of Newegg.com that I think are good deals:

Intel Core2Duo E7500 + Asus P5Q Turbo LGA 775:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.369412

AMD Phenom II X4 955 AM3 + GIGABYTE GA-770TA-UD3 AM3 AMD 770:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.381927

You can also pick your own combo, but sometimes you can find a great deal with the combos.

Hope this helps!What's your budget?
Do you need a whole build spec'ing, or just the CPU and motherboard, or what?I don't really have a budget but since it is going to only be for office work I don't want to be spending money on stuff that will be an overkill. However I would like to build it for no more than $800.00 if that's possible but with the way prices are I'm not sure if I'll have to spend more than that for a good system.

I am building a whole system.

Thanks for the links I will look into them.

Another question in reference to AMD or Intel. A few years ago AMD was a 64 bit processor and Intel was a 32 bit. Is that still the same or are they both 64 bit or does it just depend on the processor you buy? Quote from: Randy1887 on May 21, 2010, 01:29:41 PM

...The computer I will be building will be for my office, I would like to use Windows 7 OS, the programs I will use are Peachtree Accounting, Microsoft Office Word, Excel, Avery Design Pro, The Print Shop and Adobe Reader. So need to know Intel or AMD, Duo or Quad and what models you would suggest.
...

Get a refund and get the memory from someone else.  You tried twice, that's enough. Quote from: Computer_Commando on July 02, 2010, 06:56:32 PM

Get a refund and get the memory from someone else.  You tried twice, that's enough.

Hey, I've searched FAQ and other similar posts and didn't find much related contents...

I bought a new GFX card ATI Sapphire 5770 Vaporx-1 and I wanted to install it right away. What happens is whenever I boot computer with that card inside it goes into blue screen dumping memory and it says this:
Quote from: Windows Blue Screen Error Message

Stop 0x0000007e (0xffffffffc0000005, 0xfffff80002e57830, 0xfffffa60019d6e78, 0xfffffa60019d6850)

Did you uninstall the drivers for the ATI hd4650 before you installed the new card?

Some things to try:

Re-seat the card (take the card out...blow some air onto the slot to ensure there is no dust or debris in there...then put the card back in)

Make sure any auxilliary power cables are connected to the card.

Allthough it is always a good idea to uninstall old drivers before upgrading hardware, it should at least boot to windows I would have thought...particularly as they are both ati cards. Just to be sure though, try booting in safe mode, as that will by-pass any drivers anyway.

Lastly, if all else fails, return the card promtly for a refund/replacement, as it sounds like it may be a memory issue with the card.

Good Luck

.From the Windows Start menu, click Run.
.In the Open field, type MSCONFIG and click Ok.
.On the BOOT.INI tab, check /SAFEBOOT.
.Click Restart when prompted.

i just want to KNOW what i really need look for in buying a new tower. i have a HP, xp made in like 2001 with no upgrades. i figured just go ahead and get fully upgraded lol.

so if i buy a tower what is somethings i need look for other towers might not have.

i guess windows 7 is the thing now over XP right?

thing i need with computer
~internet
~type papers and crap
~watch streaming movies and that
~play online games. (world of warcraft, runescape) those types of online games mainly. not talking about top end gaming(like call of duty/assassians creed ect). it be a nice perk to have the option but i rather play on consoles.


those are the main things i do on my computer. I'm sure most computers now days made can do these with one finger but just want to make sure i get what i need

ALSO so also what name brands you recommend

other stuff be perks but i don't care for it and won't fork over a lot for other perks that i might not use

price limit around $400 max if avoidable

links to RECOMMENDED models be a PLUS too!

i looked at best buy website just get a ideal whats going on in the market. but don't mean i understand thew specs of stuff

thanks for reading. hope you can understand all that lol.

For browsing the internet, on a motherboard with a 133 MHz front side bus, what processor do you think would be better ?

Celeron SL5VR....100 MHz FSB, 256 KB L2 cache, 1.3 Ghz


Or


Pentium 3 SL52Q....133 MHz FSB, 256 kb L2 cache, 933 MHzNumber #2...It seems like that's the better choice but I'm not SURE...

Not to go on a technical rampage or anything, but I read somewhere that because of the L1 and L2 cache, the processor will only look to main DRAM approximately "1%" of the entire session (cache "hits" make up the 99 % and cache "misses" make up the 1 %, when the system has to SLOW down to the FSB speed and main DRAM is accessed).  So, that 133 Mhz front side makes a difference only a small amount of the time..  In the case of these TWO processors, the L1/L2 cache are running at the full speed of the processors and do not have to slow down to the front side bus speed unless a "miss" occurs.. So as far as I can the celeron would be better...

Then again, were talking about browsing the Internet, and the processor cannot predict what web pages you are going to go to, so that data couldn't possibly be in cache.  It could however, predict what processes/services are needed for browsing and leave those in cache.  Perhaps multi-tasking on the computer with out browsing is where the celeron would be better because it would know better what you are using and would wouldn't have to go to memory as much...

The reason I'm comparing the two is because I have to put one of the two into a system like I described.  I'm thinking of going with the celeron, but I just want to get some insights from people..The difference is going to be very very tiny and I doubt if you would even notice it. Having said that, you may as well use the P3.
I'd use the Celeron, but as Salmon said there's not going to be a world of difference.interesting responses     Does seem like there will not be much of a difference, doesn't it..

thx for feed back


I think I'm going to go with the Celeron, for now...

I have an 80GB WD Passport External HD that basically died on me about 2 months back, so I saved it and the other day I wanted to see about getting all the info off of it.  I don't REALLY care about the HD itself considering I have since got a 500GB external, but the information on the BROKEN drive is sentimental in a way so I would love to grab the stuff off of it and throw the HDD out if anything.

Now, (keep in mind, it was 2-3 years old) the problem was, one random day I went to plug it back into the same computer as I previously plugged it into, even the same USB port.  It said "new hard disk" or something in the bottom right corner and then says "drivers installed and ready to use" or something similiar and that was it.  It doesn't SHOW in "my computer" or anything.  I have since tried it on about 5-6 different computers with the same result.  I have also tried another USB cord from another external HD.

I took the actual HD out of the casing and it looks LIKE an IDE attachment, but it doesn't fit to an IDE cord.

Any other ideas?  Am I doing something wrong? 

Or is the HD just dead?Sounds as THOUGH the partition information has been wiped from the hard drive. The information on the hard drive may still be intact, but you will likely need to obtain recovery software from the internet to access it. There are plenty of free utilities available for download which will recover the information for you. Just search google for free harddrive recovery software. If you can get the information back, copy it to a working drive as the old drive will probably do the same thing again even if you do get it working.

As for the plugs, it is likely a 2.5" hard drive, as used in laptops.

Good LuckThanks man.  I will do that now and see what I can find.

I will post my findings / results None of the programs will recognize the drive when its plugged in. Its showing me the samething thats in "my computer"

Is there one I should specifically get?It's kind of late for me to do some searching at the moment (4:30 am actually) but I will have a look later and post for you. I have done this a number of times in the past, but it is so infrequent that I don't really have one program I use for it.

Anyway, will reply tomorrow. Quote from: baboontester on July 06, 2010, 11:07:35 AM

It doesn't show in "my computer" or anything.  I have since tried it on about 5-6 different computers with the same result. 

It is to combine DDR memory 256 pc333 to 512 pc400? Because i purchase a pc400 512MB and i want to add on my PC but i am using two 256 pc333 on my PC. I need an ANSWERS. Thanks.http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070606185616AAzMpj7Check this site.Before you do anything go to Crucial.com and use their memory SCAN.  It will tell you what you can use.  Even if you don't buy from them it's a good first STEP, and they have reasonable prices and good service.  And I'm one of their customers, not a sales rep.

http://www.crucial.com/

Idk where to find a Disk drive to FIT my nzxt m59 case with 140mm top fans installed all i know that i still have 6 inches of space for the Drive to be installed..Does the drive have to be at the top? You could simply just lower the disk drive one slot and have it operate there? Quote from: Kurtiskain on JULY 01, 2010, 06:02:08 PM

Does the drive have to be at the top? You could simply just lower the disk drive one slot and have it operate there?

it will just ruin the visual apearance of the case

Hi guys,

I've just popped open my Sony Vaio NR21J/S to put a new hard drive inside and my setup looks like this (sorry in advance for the bad quality images):

(IDE 40gb Hard Drive)

#





I haven't fitted a hard drive before but have done a lot of research online before I finally gave in.  The problem is my setup doesn't seem to look like anyone elses. I have the caddy and my new hard drive ready to go, but what is the CIRCUIT board piece for?

It slots nicely into the IDE slot on the mother board but it doesn't fit on the hard drive properly. As far as I knew it was a case of putting the new hard drive in the caddy, fastening it all and lining it up and sliding it in the IDE slot, but it won't fit which leads me to believe the circuit board MUST play a serious part (no sh*t Sherlock, I know)

If anyone could SHED some light on exactly how I install this I'll be grateful.Found the problem. You're trying to put an IDE hard drive into an SATA slot.

IDE

SATA
That's what I suspected but at the same time, the hard drive I took out was IDE. *SCRATCHES head* That circuit board looks like it is supposed to fit under or over the top of the drive itself though, with the holes in it.

It looks like the controller board for your last drive, did you take the old one off? That controller card is definitely SATA, and looks like it could be replaced onto the new drive (Don't try that though)

Was this a direct replacement from the manufacturer? do you have your old drive to compare?It's a European model & it does contain a SATA hard drive:
http://support.vaio.sony.eu/computing/vaio/specifications/index.aspx?m=VGN-NR21J_S&l=en_GB

UserGuide
(not much help, but it took forever for me to find)

It looks like the circuit board is an IDE to SATA adapter; can't think of what else it could be.  Not sure why it's there, unless some previous owner was trying to adapt the 40GB IDE to SATA.  The standard hard drive was 200GB. Quote from: sean12xu on July 07, 2010, 08:01:16 AM

That's what I suspected but at the same time, the hard drive I took out was IDE. *scratches head*

Hey! Got a serious problem. Restarted my PC and when it was turning it said Third master hard disk error press F1 to continue. Then i press F1 to boot pc.. insert my vista cd (had windows 7 instaleld) and try to boot because i DIDNT know what else to do. So i get to the point where you have to select on which disk you have to install windows. But there are no disks.. Is this a hard disk problem or mainboard or something else? PLEASE HELP!

TNX FOR YOUR HELP!I'm GOING to go out on a limb here and say that when the error says "master hard disk error" the problem is with the hard disk.

You can download & run the hd diagnostic utility from the hd manufacturer's website, but my BEST guess is you'll need to replace the hd.yes but i was told it could be main board but i cant test it. and dont want to buy hard disk if its not the problem. Quote from: Allan on July 07, 2010, 05:51:24 AM

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that when the error says "master hard disk error" the problem is with the hard disk.

You can download & run the hd diagnostic utility from the hd manufacturer's website, but my best guess is you'll need to replace the hd.

http://www.ubcd4win.com/ I am downloading this. going to try with it since Western Digital doesen't seem to have a bootable diagnostic/repair tool for their HDD -.-

I have a dead Acer al2017 abd LCD screen and i cant really fix it by myself.. so im thinking about selling the lcd by its self... do you guys know what these things go for? and how about the acer al1917 abmd?

ThanksA dead MONITOR does not go for much, if you could sell it at all, I'd be surprised.

I've seen used but working 17" LCD monitors in pawn shops selling for $30, with a six month guarantee.  Unless somebody just wanted a challenge, I can't imagine somebody buying it.I have a 93 Corolla that's dead on arrival...perhaps we can do a package deal on this... Quote from: Salmon Trout on July 05, 2010, 12:39:50 PM

A dead monitor does not go for much, if you could sell it at all, I'd be surprised.

I've seen used but working 17" LCD monitors in pawn shops selling for $30, with a six month guarantee.  Unless somebody just wanted a challenge, I can't imagine somebody buying it.

I have a 93 Corolla that's dead on arrival...perhaps we can do a package deal on this...

OK. I was thinking that people would actually help instead of "JOKE" around which isn't helping at all. A simple answer like 20inch=$$$ and 17inch=$$$ or at least advise me to buy a power board which cost about $10-$15 and see if that would help.. Well anyhow thanks for the people that "actually helped".

So the Corolla is out of the equation then ? ?

well i'll take it there then or just buy a new power board

Do you even know for sure that that's the issue?

My computer screen KEEPS flashing. Flashing starts soon after I start the computer and continues randomly until I shut down the computer.
Why could I do to get rid of flashing?

I have tried following things:

Made sure that cables are properly plugged.
Using other monitor.
Using other dvi cable.
Using other power cable.
Updating my graphics card's drivers.
Took my graphics card off and used integrated, same problem with it.
None of these helped.

My graphics card is GeForce GT 220 and my monitor is 22" tft. Windows 7 is OS.
What happens in safe mode?Could you try to describe the 'flashing' in a little more detail please? Does it flash with a bright color or does it go dark? how frequently does it happen (is it at a consistant interval or does it appear random)? Does it make a sound when it's flashing (like a popping sound)? Is there a sound from your computer when it flashes (fans hesitating or speeding up momentarily etc.)? Does it actually effect the on-screen ACTIVITY (mouse pointer pausing etc.)?

Sorry for all the questions but you have already covered pretty much every thing I would have tried, so some more information may be able to help in the search for a solution.

Thanks &
Good LuckHopefully its not a motherboard that's broken. Oh, and one other thing...has it always done this, or has it only started recently?

Have you tried plugging the monitor into a totally different wall power-outlet. Kinda grasping at straws here, but maybe there is a fault with the power outlet.In safe mode there is no flashing.

Flashing is sort of white, no other colours. It's QUITE random, not constant. No sounds. It doesn't affect mouse movement or such.

The problem started soon after I moved my computer to other room. Before that there was no problem.

I'll try using other power outlet next.Never mind the power outlet. If it doesn't happen in safe mode the problem is caused by some software that is loading - possibly the driver. Download and install the current driver for your video card and let's see what happens (get the driver from the OEM web site, not from Microsoft UPDATE).EDIT---Just noticed you mention Win 7 in your first post... Try disabling the Aero features and see if it still occurs.

Are you using XP as stated in your profile? I have heard of Aero theme causing similar issues, but that would only apply if you have upgraded to Vista or win7....Profile details are from my old computer, this new one runs 7.

I'll try disabling Aero and reinstalling drivers next.

EDIT: I tried both, but it didn't help.How did you move the profiles ? ? Quote from: patio on July 07, 2010, 01:27:22 PM

How did you move the profiles ? ?

...I looked closer at my motherboard and noticed that one capacitor has blown up.
Is that probably reason for my problems?

Hopefully its not a motherboard that's broken.

And the best thing right now is to take your CPU to a computer shop who have available services for repair so that they can have a thorough check on your motherboard and system. And also, check your monitor that comes with your broken CPU to other working CPU unit just to pinpoint that there is no other issue aside from your CPU unit.

My Dell E521 has been on the fritz for about a year.  As soon as I turned her on she would go right into Entering Power SAVE and shut down.  I have DONE some research on Dells tech support and FORUM site. I am not a computer whiz, and can't tell if the computer is worth the investment of a new mother board.  From what I can tell from the Dell support forum site it sounds as if a new mother board might only be part of the solution!  Can anyone out there help me?   monitors turns into power SAVING mode if it don't get any signal from your CPU. Diagnosing your CPU box first is a good starting point.

check the power line.
power chord, power supply, then motherboard.

I hope that helps.I would at least try a different Power Supply before assuming it is the MBoard.Thank you so very MUCH for all your input!  I took my tower to a computer repair shop recommended by a friend.  He did check it over and it is a mother board problem (mother board is burnt up).  I want to get my tower fixed (it's cheaper then buying a new PC since I am out of work.)  Is there any other things I should have the repair man check before I take home my tower?      Ask him what parts he's replacing...
Ask him what the cost will be...

Other than that if you choose to do it yourself we will be here...Of course building it yourself brings you valuable memories and knowledge... and fun. It's not too hard either. I can get you great deals, that's for sure.

turns on,  checks dvd etc. then just sits on no bios screen,changed memory,hard drive ,systems,dvd drive,was runings fine ,WENT in bios and ajusted settings to improve boot, now no boot to bios screen ,pushed reset button,on and off jeffWhatever BIOS changes you made COULD very well be the cause...
POWER down and remove the CMOS battery for 5 MINUTES with the battery removed....
This will reset the BIOS to defaults...

We have some speical floppies that I was useing since we didnt have the regular ones to use at the time but these go to a special organ an are 1.0 mb, is there any way too format them via an app since the regular format A: is for 1.44 mb.  Not for commodore or apple.   I dont know myself since my dad was picky about me useing them so I really dont know much more then thatAny idea's or apps?It's not clear what you mean.

[recovering disk space - old attachment deleted by admin]I'm guessing, and this is just a wild GUESS, that you have an organ that uses 3.5" floppies with nonstandard formating to play music automatically.  Is this even close?  If so we need to know a lot more about the organ and how the DISKS are formated.thats what I figured an its not.  Thing is that I really CANT see what is on them an need them to WORK cause there is only a few that store sounds.It goes to some casio electronic organ about as much as he will tell me.

hi,

i have got a pretty old p3 system. the system works fine except the cdrom.
When windows start, if i insert the cd i could read the content in the cd.
however, if i wanna read a bootable cd, i cant do it when the system boots up.
im pretty sure this has got nothing to do with the cd rom/ cd because i've tried it with other cpu and they both work.
i tried adjusting it in bios but it keeps saying there's no media found.

any idea??If you are only using one hard drive then you could try plugging both your hard drive and CD drive into IDE port 0 (as apposed to HDD in IDE 0 & CD in IDE 1; some MOTHERBOARDS label them IDE 1 & 2). This would probably MEAN that your IDE port is broken though and permanently LIMIT you to 2 IDE drives, unless you were to buy a new motherboard. Although with that age of PC I doubt that it would be worth buying unless you found an old board at a BOOT fair.Did this just start? If so, what is different since the last time the drive worked (new hw, sw, error, etc)?

What is on these bootable CD's ? ?
Did you create them or are they factory ? ?Sorry - I misread the POST and had it backwards - thought it worked at boot but not within Windows.

Oops I think that I have misunderstood as well. Are you getting a "no media" message when booting from the CD or when identifying drives in the BIOS? If your getting no media found from booting then what I said in my earlier post is uncalled for at this time.

hi everybody
my laptop dell d610 doesn't start anymore! I have checked the AC adapter,the battery,the hard DRIVE and the ram (installed on another computer and even replaced)..all of them are operating correctly! I've reseted the cpu and practically all the peripherals of the laptop ! now I'm suspecting the motherboard! Any suggestion of yours will be helpful
thanks
chaibatif you've already tested your power adaptor and battery to be OK then mobo is the next candidate. I would GO to dell SERVICE CENTER to have it checked.it could be worth a shot plugging the lap top in to a desk top screeen and trying to get some thing on screen...or it could be the mother board

Hello all! I have the laptop mentioned in the subject. I need to know what kind of RAM it takes and how much the Hp support site is useless and complicated to find anything about this laptop. The website says it can only take 3GB of RAM but the support program on the computer itself says it can take up to 8gb of RAM? That and I WOULD like to find out if the CPU is upgradeable. Any and all HELP is greatly APPRECIATED!Travel to Crucial.com and run the ONLINE scanner...

Compaq presario sr1610nx desktop.  When I turn it on, the processor fan spins and so does the psu fan.  However after a second the fans stop spinning and the computer shuts down.  At this point, the green power light on the front of the computer, that is supposed to be on when the computer is on, and off when the computer is shut down, starts blinking.

I changed about the power supply unit thinking it was the psu that had gone bad.  So what else can be making the computer shut down?  Could it be that the processor needs a new layer of thermal paste on top of it?  Im skeptical of that being the cause cause EVEN after the computer has been off for like a day or two, the same shut down prooblem happens and I cant imagine the processor getting so hot right AWAY. 

What else could it be?
1. Make sure that your CPU is dust-free(Heatsink area, processor, PSU/PSU fan, exhaust fan.
2. Reinsert your CMOS(3 Volts) Battery. Although they are the least to cause and unable to boot and shutsdown computer, It is still a part of the BOOTING process for computers.  Replacing it with a new battery is also an option.
3. Make sure all slots(PSU to the motherboard)are properly connected. Just curious...what happened prior to this ? ?Im going to blow the dust out from the heatsink , maybe it is clogged.  I dont know what else to try. 

patio:  prior to the computer acting this way, nothing was done.  The computer just gave out, maybe it was because the psu stopped working, and I say this cause the psu fan never turns on.  That is a sign that the psu is not working correct?  Is there any way a blown psu or a defective psu can damage a motherboard
It may also be a thermal issue. As you mention, check your heatsink and processor. Heatsink/s aside from getting dusty shoud also be the same smooth surface as they were first used. Check if its not a dull heatsink for it will not contribute in absorbing heat. You also mention that you already change your PSU(either the same voltage or higher). And also mention that it still shutsdown, however you noticed that there is still a blinking(green or orange) during shutdown or standby mode. I think that the PSU is good coz there is power during shutdown(Blinking). Are there any BEEPS during or when turning on first your computer? Have you change or reinsert the CMOS battery?Clear your BIOS, my shorting two jumpers usually saying "bios 1" or "Clear BIOS". Don't do this if you aren't sure. You're better off removing that battery. Put a flathead in, turn, and pop it out. Wait an hour. Put it back in. Should work. If not, let it stand for a day or two without the battery.

Running winxp  almost 6 years old used rarely . the spec. says 256 MBDDR but its READING only 190  . It's making the laptop very slow nothing is working keypad or the touch mouse . I used the recovery CD to restore the sys ,  when  i run it on the safe mode every thing work good , normal mode very slow . what should i do ?? It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to upgrade the memory. 256 is very low for Windows XP. I just bought  1 GB DDR mem and the computer reads it . Nothing changed, the computer still dosen't respond , it seems slow the  touch pad  or keyboard  don't work  unless,  in the safe mode only every thing work normal !!! I really don't understand it !!Can any one HELP and tell me what should I do ? Sounds kinda like a virus maybe. Have you run a virus scan recently or since this started happening? You can go online and download Avira, that's probably the best free ANTIVIRUS I've found. Also you can try Malware BYTES antimalware and see if that helps.A  happy ending . I was able to fix it. I don't know exactly which step that fixed it but i did two things ,
first I noticed when I shutdown it says "the power meter does'nt want to close" so I restarted on the safe mode and removed " unchecked"  -from the controll panel - the power meter icon from the taskbar .
Second I uninstalled the touchpad driver from the device manager then restarted the laptop. It worked .
I'm keeping the 1GB memory that I bought anyway .

Thanks for all .Glad you were able to fix it!

I have a pretty old GATEWAY laptop. I recently INSTALLED a game (KOTOR), but the sound doesn't work. According to DXDIAG my laptop is using "Conexant AMC Audio (emulated)". So far I have been unable to find drivers for it.
Do you know of any drivers for this emulated CARD? If not, is there a WAY to install a real sound card into a laptop (i.e. usb adapter), or is there a software that will emulate a sound card that has recent drivers available?Is your sound/audio devices working before you installed the game or not? Does laptop spearkers or  e.g soundblasters works other than the game you mention on CDs or DVDs?

Hi don't know if anyone has had this problem, i have a compaq presario v6500 laptop and recently my lightscribe dvd recorder stop showing on my computer, when i go into comp it shows my hard drive but the dvd is no longer available. When i put a disc in it just makes a noise but NOTHING HAPPENS. Any help pleasePut in a bootable disc, make sure the optical drive is at the top of the bios BOOT order and reboot. Does the system boot to the dvd?Hi yes i have done that and reboote the comp and everything worked, then the disc drive vanished from the settings again
ThanksSo it works at boot but not within the OS? Go here and follow the instructions: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/929461Thanks for the help did what you said and the scan came back as could not detect the cd/dvd drive, so could not fix. Just strange how it works when i boot from the cd/dvd drive. Quote

One of these may help:
1. Uninstall the drive through Device Manager.
Restart computer. The drive will be automatically reinstalled.
or...
2. http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314060
Restart computer.
or...
3. Download, and run Restore Missing CD Drive patch
Double click on cdgone.zip to unzip it.
Right click on cdgone.reg, click Merge.
Accept registry merge.
Restart computer.
or...
4. Go to Device Manager, click a "+" sign next to IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers.
You'll see two items:
- ATA Channel0 (or Primary Channel)
- ATA Channel1 (or Secondary Channel)
Right click on each of them, and click Uninstall. Confirm.
Restart Windows. They'll be automatically reinstalled.

Thanks for the help did what you said and the scan came back as could not detect the cd/dvd drive, so could not fix. Just strange how it works when i boot from the cd/dvd drive.

Dear Sir,
 
 I am not able burn CDs on my Lite-on LTN486 (48x) CD-ROM DRIVE. In fact, the drive does not access at all new blank RECORDABLE CDs (Moserbaer).

 PC Details:
 Dell
 Pentium 4
 1.60 GHz
 512 MB RAM
 Microsoft XP Professional (w/o CD)
 Anti-virus - NPAV2010
 40 GB HDD

 Pls Help.
 Thanks in advance.NO. According to your own statement " CD-ROM Drive" and the DOCUMENTATION available online it is a "read only device". Therefore it is not intended for "burning".truenorthNope. GO to newegg.com or ebay, and get yourself one for under $10, or a nice dvd burner for $30.

is it possible to upgrade the CPU of a Hp Dv7 1232nr laptop?
I've been Google'ing all day looking for a compatible CPU for this laptop.

ThanksTechnically, yes. Anything that fits Socket S1G2 is great. But it's way more work than unscrewing a few screws... remember that.

Here are a few processors...
(source: wikipedia.org


Turion X2 Ultra ZM-80
Turion X2 Ultra ZM-82
Turion X2 Ultra ZM-84
Turion X2 Ultra ZM-85
Turion X2 Ultra ZM-86
Turion X2 Ultra ZM-87
Turion X2 Ultra ZM-88
Turion X2 RM-70
Turion X2 RM-72
Turion X2 RM-74
Turion X2 RM-75
Turion X2 RM-76
Turion X2 RM-77
Athlon X2 QL-60
Athlon X2 QL-62
Athlon X2 QL-64
Athlon X2 QL-65
Athlon X2 QL-66
Athlon X2 QL-67
so basically all these will work like they're supposed to? and do i have to consider temperatures?TEMPS will be around the same. But I'm telling you, the PROBLEM is getting to the CPU, and then (a MUCH lesser problem) getting it out. Hopefully it's not soldered on. Get the CPU in and I'm pretty sure it will work like it's supposed to.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_AMD_Turion_microprocessors#.22Lion.22_.2865_nm.29

There is your chart. Anything with an HT of 1800mhz is very sure to work. OTHERS you might have to experiment with. I see no point in a processor replacement however. It is good enough and changing it will not have a huge impact on performance. It's most likely the GPU (graphics CARD) HOLDING you back.

I recently got a new processor but for some reason when i put it in...and yes before you ask it is in the right way...my pc turns on but not completley. By this i mean it all starts running the fans and everything inside, but my monitor will not come on at all. I do not know if i need a new power supply or what. PLease help this is driving me crazy. What are your PC's specs? And not TRYING to insult your intelligence or anything, but just have to ask, are you sure your motherboard can support that processor? Same socket type and all?Thermal paste applied properly ? ?
Sounds as THOUGH the auxiliary power cable is not plugged into the motherboard.

Good LuckI would also check that the CPU was compatible with the motherboard. The manufacturers website usually has the specifications of the board plus a CPU compatibility list, if you can't find a list, post the brand and model here, and the CPU you purchased and we may be able to shed a better light on it I say SOMEONE forgot their thermal + heatsink

Ok. Re posting this in a different way. Think something accidentally got uninstalled. Have no sound whats so ever on the computer. When I go into device manager there is a yellow question mark in other devices. Not sound,video,game controllers. When I right click the ? mark, there are 2 things that drop down. One says Audio Device on High Definition Audio Bus and two says Video Controller (VGA compatible). They GIVE me the choices to update; disable; & uninstall.
When I click properties it says to reinstall.
Says this... The drivers for this device are not installed. (Code 28)
To reinstall the drivers for this device, click Reinstall Driver.

If I try to reinstall it asks me for a disc. I do not have one. Not sure what I have to reinstall. DriverMax was not that helpful. I don't really want to keep TRYING these driver help downloads. I just want to know what exactly to do. This is the info I got from my computer. I am sorry I don't know more than this. It is not our main computer, thought it was rebuilt. I really appreciate any help. My kids are driving me nuts wanting sound for their games, lol. Thank you!

   
Processor name   Intel(R) Celeron(R) CPU E1400 2.00GHz
Processor speed   2912
Processor vendor   GenuineIntel
Processor count (cores)   2
Processor ID   x86 Family 6 Model 15 Stepping 13

   
RAM size   2.00 GB
DirectX version   4.09.00.0904
HDD - Windows partition   320 GB
HDD - Largest disk   320 GB
Video RAM   0 B
Windows version   Windows XP (5.1.2600)
Regional settings   English United States
Windows language   English United States

Computer name   E1400
    Description   AT/AT COMPATIBLE
    Model   G31T-M
    Manufacturer   ECS
    No. of physical processors   1
    System type   X86-based PC
    Total physical memory   2.00 GB

    Chassis type   Desktop
    Manufacturer   ECS

   Name   G31T-M
    CAPTION   Computer System Product
    Vendor   ECS
    Identifying number
    Version   1.0

1.    Name   Default System BIOS
    Manufacturer   American Megatrends Inc.
    Version   073108 - 20080731
    Release date   Jul 31 2008
    SMBIOSBIOSVersion   080014
    SMBIOSMajorVersion   2
    SMBIOSMinorVersion   5
    Bios features   ISA is supported
PCI is supported
Plug and Play is supported
APM is supported
BIOS is Upgradable (Flash)
BIOS shadowing is allowed
ESCD support is available
Boot from CD is supported
Selectable Boot is supported
BIOS ROM is socketed
EDD (Enhanced Disk Drive) Specification is supported
Int 13h - 5.25 /1.2MB Floppy Services are supported
Int 13h - 3.5 / 720 KB Floppy Services are supported
Int 13h - 3.5 / 2.88 MB Floppy Services are supported
Int 5h, Print Screen Service is supported
Int 9h, 8042 Keyboard services are supported
Int 14h, Serial Services are supported
Int 17h, printer services are supported
Int 10h, CGA/Mono Video Services are supported
ACPI is supported
USB Legacy is supported
LS-120 boot is supported
ATAPI ZIP Drive boot is supported

I am online for a while if I can answer anything else about this in order for your help. Thanks again. Is it onboard audio or do you have a separate sound card? If it is separate, you could look on the card itself and find the manufacturer and model type and go to the manufacturer's website and get the driver straight from there. If it's onboard, you should be able to go to either the motherboard's manufacturer's website or the PC manufacturer's website and get the drivers from them. Go to the following page on the motherboard manufacturer site, and download the audio driver from the downloads section.
http://www.ecs.com.tw/ECSWebSite/Product/Product_Detail.aspx?DetailID=812&CategoryID=1&MenuID=16&LanID=0

It sounds as though the video driver is not installed either, so you may want to get that driver from the same page while you are there.

Good LuckLooks like a fresh install. Go to the ECS website, download the drivers for audio and graphics (oh, yes, you're graphics also need a driver for the games =P), install and you're done.

Hey guys,

I'm having a problem getting audio to play from my laptop through my samsung HDTV. I recently purchased a usb sound card adapter as it had appeared that my internal one had SNUFFED it. Using a stereo, male to male lead I've connected the audio out from the device to the correct port on the back of the tv. Now the problem is, that while the lead is fully inserted into the usb sound device, I get a loud screeching noise before the device disables itself and windows media for example, tells me a device has been removed or reconfigured. Now interestingly, If I only push the lead halfway into the usb device, I get perfect sound through the tv but from only one speaker. I can't work out whether it's the device itself that is faulty, or wrong configuration etc. I just know it is bugging the *censored* out of me as I've been trying desperately for some TIME to fix my little audio dilemma.

Any help on the matter would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!

Does your laptop/tv have output/inputs that will allow you to do the audio TRANSFER via RCA plugs or a mini stereo plug? If so try that. It sounds LIKE a faulty USB cable or jack input issue.truenorthStereo plug into mono jack? Idk.  Might be a faulty device.

...I have a Dell Dimension 9150, Intel Pentium 4 CPU 3.20 GHz, 2 GB RAM.
Video Card: Nvidia GeForce 7800 GTX...

I should have mentioned this, sorry, but I have the latest driver update for my video card allready.

.. Also, yeah im a noob!...

HDCP is a form of copy protection for video.  If that were the problem I don't think it would have played at all.

subject say's is all.  Quote from: BluerjB on July 08, 2010, 03:56:39 PM

subject say's is all. 

Hey, well this is my first post and I SIGNED up to ask for some help with my old COMPUTER.

I have no idea about it's specs because its a lot of years old and it curently doesn't work xD

Well it works, it turns on anyway.

What happened is the computer was turned on and the monitor wasn't plugged in,  plugged in the monitor and it sparked and the computer turned off. Now, WHENEVER I try to use it, the monitor doesn't work, I've tried 2 monitors and 2 cables and it still doesn't work.

What happened inside and how can I fix it?

Thanks, ChrisYou may have fried either the video chip and/or the monitor...

They should only be connected/disconnected with all power off.

You could try to add a video card to see if you can resuscitate this machine...Okay thanks, I think it already has an ATI videocard inside it, is there anyway to use the built in graphics?

Also the monitor is fine, it works with my other computers

Thanks, ChrisThen power down and hook up a monitor to the onboard connecter.....you may just get lucky... Quote from: ChrisBee on July 10, 2010, 03:52:22 AM

plugged in the monitor and it sparked

Hello all,

I have an HP Mini running Windows XP, and I accidentally dropped it. It still boots, but it runs excruciatingly slowly, up to the point where I no longer even use it. It frequently freezes as well.

I've been troubleshooting, trying to figure out whether it's the hard drive, the processor, the motherboard or the RAM that's damaged/displaced. I went into the BIOS, which worked fine without any problems, and I ran a primary hard disk self test. The test status was: "7 (Completed with the read element of the test failed)." I figured, well then it must be the hard drive that's damaged, and I tried to boot from the Windows XP CD. However, when it prompts me with "Press any key to continue," no matter which keys I press or how many times I press them, it won't go anywhere. It doesn't boot.

What could the problem most likely be? Any ideas or insight? Thanks!What are the temperatures like? - You may have knocked the cpu cooler loose causing the cpu to RUN at a lower speed to stop overheating.  It may also be your hard drive, is it making a different noise to usual when it reads/writesSo you're saying I might have knocked the fan loose? The temperatures are fine as far as I know. I think there's one part of the computer that's a bit hotter than the other parts, but that might just be me.

Also, I can't tell with the hard drive. I haven't tried opening my computer while it's running, seeing as the HP mini manual instructs the user to remove the battery before opening up the laptop.You should never open a laptop with POWER to it...battery or otherwise.What harm will it do if I remove the battery beforehand?None.
But i think you should consider taking it to a shop...
Laptop/netbooks are not DESIGNED to be User serviceable...Well what do you think the problem might be?
Also, I work in IT, so I don't know if I should bother taking it to a shop...UNLESS you mean employees that deal specifically with HP products?Been working on PC's for 20 + years....i don't do laptops THOUGH...i learned the hard way that it's not easy.
However if you are comfortable with your skill level then go for it.I have opened up a few laptops. A couple were very simple, but most were a nightmare. And the only ones I opened up were the ones that were trash if I didn't fix them. I made up my mind to throw them unless I could fix them, which I didn't    

I would try to re-seat  everything that is easily accessible.  The ram usually only has a cover on it, and possible the cd/dvd drive and the hard drive. Not likely to work but it is somewhere to start that won't take to long.  This is a suggestion out of left field but it is based on a few assumptions.
1.You know what was in the hardware of your computer BEFORE you dropped it.
2.You have done your HDD test diagnostic.
3.You have done your temperature test.
4.You have done the limited determinations (as suggested by others) to see if anything is loose from the fall.
If you can get the computer to run long enough to do an "Everest" scan on it then assuming something is no longer functioning it should be absent from what was known to be in the computer before the fall. Hope this will help.truenorthAs Patio said, take it to a shop. Even if you know what you are doing, laptops are tricky. If you don't, they are impossible. If the laptop was on when the drop happened, the hard disk could have had a head crash. (That means it is terminally damaged) Even if it was off, jarring could have done a lot of damage. Face it. Whatever you find out from scans, you are going to have to take it to a repair shop. If you think it is worth spending the money.

Definately sounds like a damaged hard drive to me. The Xp CD is only of use to either repair a damaged installation or to make a fresh install - It won't help if you have a physically damaged hard drive. If it were me, I would get hold of a working second-hand hard-drive and then make a fresh install of XP onto that. Replacing a hard drive is about the only simple thing to replace on a laptop (besides ram). If you do this and get it working again, you may still be able to salvage some of the information from your old drive by using an external hard drive case. But again, that's just what I would do.

Good Luck.The HDD is the problem as previously mentioned. To install xp, you must enable in bios USB Keyboard support, or plug in an external one. Good luck.

The story of the case is I have 2 x 146 H.D. to CONFIGURE the RAID 1 with Hp Smart START CD.  The 50 GB is used for RAID 1, LABEL drive C , the remain space for data, label drive d

I type the SIZE of 51200 MB on first logic drive, then assign the remain space to other disk. After install the Window 2K3 sp2 , the drive C has 8MB which is unallocated, the drive d is fine.

What is the problem and resolution to do that , I don't want to re-install the OS  Please do not post more than once. I've deleted the duplicate.

I dont need any OLD info just some old pics. If the HD shut down can I GET back into it to retriev just some old pics?  Im running xp, 500 GB hd, personal, Have a tb as drive e:
can I dissconect plug in an old drive and retrieve info? It can be put into another working MACHINE to retrieve the data...

Slave Drive Tutorial...

hey guys i have this grathics card i know nothing about all i know its an ATI rage 128 can any ONE tell me what connection it is, and how much mb it has thanks in advanced black rainbow

[recovering disk space - old attachment deleted by admin]I THINK it's a 32MB AGP card.Definitely AGP but without a CLEARER PICTURE all I could say is between 4Mb & 64Mb.That is a really bad photo.
I say it is a Rage 128 PRO. It has 32 mb of memory.sorry about the QUALITY of the photo i took it from my phone and than you guys

I ordered http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231122 thinking it would be COMPATIBLE with http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130252 . The RAM does not fit. Is this because it is DDR2?

Also. Should I order http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231193 ? Will that be compatible? Any help would be appreciated.Go to Crucial.com and use their memory scan to FIGURE out exactly what you need.

http://www.crucial.com/Well, the RAM it suggested is DDR3 but costs 200 dollars a stick. not happening! lol

Guess I'll just buy the 100 pair and hope for the best.Your MB needs DDR3 memory.  The different types (DDR, DDR2, and DDR3) are not compatible with each other and mother boards are made for a specific type.  If you can get 4GB of DDR3 for $100, go for it.DDR3 ONLY. Or, get yourself a DDR2 motherboard, like the rest of us and enjoy cheaper prices and just as good performance. AND it WILL cost LESS. QUOTE from: dwegiel on July 10, 2010, 10:06:58 PM

DDR3 ONLY. Or, get yourself a DDR2 motherboard, like the rest of us and enjoy cheaper prices and just as good performance. AND it WILL cost LESS.

What is the quickest way to return a hard DRIVE to raw? I have some very specific installation software that fails EVEN if you use fdisk or delpart to remove all existing partitions as it is expecting a raw drive before it begins its
own format utility. I researched diskpart, specifically the clean command and am wondering if that would do the TRICK. I ALSO downloaded Reclaime but haven't had a chance to try it yet.
Additional information that may be helpful..this is OS/2 Warp, the installation is from floppy disk and when it is successful you end up with two FAT32 partitions. Why this s/w requires a raw drive to start with is certainly a
puzzlement to me but again it is very vendor-specific.
Thanks in advance for your help...I didn't think OS/2 Warp REQUIRED a "raw" disk. It does require a volume less than 2 GB in size.
Quote from: Salmon Trout on July 10, 2010, 12:01:07 AM

I didn't think OS/2 Warp required a "raw" disk. It does require a volume less than 2 GB in size.

Hi! thanks for any help in advance
ill start off with the specs for my two computers
comp 1:
1 x APEVIA X-CRUISER-BK Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
1 x ABIT AN9 32X AM2 NVIDIA nForce 590 SLI MCP ATX AMD Motherboard
1 x EVGA 320-P2-N815-AR GeForce 8800GTS 320MB 320-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card
1 x SILVERSTONE ZEUS ST65ZF 650W ATX 12V 2.0 & EPS 12V SLI Certified CrossFire Ready Active PFC Power Supply
1 x AMD Athlon 64 X2 6000+ Windsor 3.0GHz Socket AM2 125W Dual-Core Processor ADX6000CZBOX
1 x G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 667 (PC2 5300) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F2-5300CL4D-4GBPQ
1 x NEC Beige 1.44MB 3.5" Internal Floppy Drive - OEM
Running Windows 7 64bit Professional

comp 2:
1 x ASUS M2N68-AM SE2 AM2+/AM2 NV Geforce 7025 / nForce 630a chipset AMD Motherboard
1 x SAPPHIRE 100296HDMI Radeon HD 4670 1GB 128-bit DDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card
1 x AMD Athlon 64 X2 5400+ Brisbane 2.8GHz Socket AM2 65W Dual-Core Processor ADO5400IAA5DO - OEM
1 x Kingston HyperX 2GB 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1066 Desktop Memory
Running Windows 7 64bit Professional

the geforce in comp 1 burnt out on me about 2 months ago. its not completely dead...it just cant do anything major graphics wise and it shows a lot of artifacts on the screen....i took out the vid card in comp 2 and tried it in comp 1 and it worked great....so i proclaimed the geforce dead and ordered an MSI Radeon 5670 to replace it....when i received the new card in the mail, i popped it in comp1 and turned it on....the fan on the card turned on...but the computer did not boot...no beep...nothing on the monitor...only sound it made was a fast whirring at boot up (the fan i guess) which died down to a soft whir that seemed to be making a sort of soft cycle.....so i returned the card to tigerdirect as a dud...and waited awhile for msi to replace it...after 2 weeks of waiting...i found a better deal for an xfx radeon 5750 and ordered it...when i received it in the mail i had the same results...so i tried it in comp 2 with no more luck....the only difference is that in comp 2, the computer DID boot up...it wasn't until later that i realized this was due to the fact that the MB in comp 2 has on board video...and after it couldn't detect the card...it switched over to on board video.....now the MB in comp 1 doesn't have on board video...so it had nothing to switch to...so now i have verified that the card doesn't work in either of my computers...so i rma'ed it...xfx has a life TIME warranty so i had to send it to them...they checked the card and said that it was good but they would send me a replacement anyways....i have received that replacement and am STILL having the same exact results....xfx suggested that i update the bios...because some mbs don't recognize pcie 2.1 until the bios is updated to....so i tried that...and i noticed that in all the update descriptions for comp 1's MB bios, nothing was said about pcie updates....but i d/l'ed the flash utility anyways...but the utility would always freeze before i could flash the bios...so now I'm at a loss for what the problem is...and xfx doesn't seem to want to take the card back because apparently they think that something is wrong with both my computers...they just don't know what.....

any help figuring this headache out would be greatly appreciated   thank youDid you switch in BIOS to pcie x16 graphics first if available? There is a little setting for it. Otherwise it will use the onboard video. I just checked that and it is already SET to PCIEXP1 ...it didnt give me an option of what pcie to pick from...
but seeing as i put my radeon 4670 from comp 2 into this mb on comp 1...i would think it can read pcie x16 cards...and 2.0 at thatIt has to be switched to x16. Right now its in x1. Try flashing BIOS to latest revision, or messing around with that setting. Otherwise, it's screwed.

Hi,
The following points explain my problem:-
1. when i switch on my pc ,it asus motherboard logo freezes for about 40-45 secs, then it says "unknown cpu detected , update bios to unleash full power. press f1 to resume..."
2. after that it seems to be normal, i,ve ATTACHED a file to explain the problem
3 cpu - intel core 2 duo E7300 2.66 ghz
   motherboard - asus P5B- VM SE
  Please help....

[recovering disk space - old attachment deleted by admin]Sounds like your motherboard needs a BIOS update.
Check Asus' website for the latest BIOS and isntructions on flashing it.CPU's supported by the ASUS P5B-VM motherboard since which BIOS:
http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx?SLanguage=en-us&model=p5b-vm&product=1&os=25

BIOS history and downloads:
http://support.asus.com/download/download.aspx?SLanguage=en-us&model=p5b-vm&product=1

You may still have to ADJUST the BIOS, after the update, not to wait on errors because ASUS do not state compatibility for that CPU.

Now that I've said something usefull and productive, lol at the "BIOS update is to unleash it's full power!" They could have said "BIOS update required for full feature support", but no they said "to unleash it's full POWER!" in a maniacal way.Yeah, I like how Asus BOARDS always say that.
Even better are the messages "Are you sure to update BIOS?" "Are you sure to RESET?" "Install finish!" and my favourite, which I saw on a Gigabyte board in a box titled "Insatll message" - "Do you want to install Gigabyte utilty?"
(above are all as seen, including speeling mistaks, grammaretical issues and general Engrish)

On a serious note, thanks for providing those links, I was in a bit of a rush when I posted or I would have done the same.No problem, as you can see I use ASUS motherboards so I have usefull PAGES from the site bookmarked. All I have to do is change the motherboard name in the address bar. The only problem is that if he's unlucky he will have to send the CPU back or get a new mobo anyway. I SUSPECT that it'll still briefly hang during the POST until it decides that the CPU is unknown. Personally that would irritate me.

BC_Programmer,

would making this change possibly render my computer inoperable, because something might also have to be done in device manager, or does the device manager have to be done first?  i suppose if it did, i could always reverse the change.  does anything have to be done in device manager, installing drivers, for instance?
what is the procedure for ENABLING these drivers and getting the most out of the sata hard drive?  right now i have it working good, and i don't want to mess it up.
thanks.
with my LAPTOP that came with Vista (and now has 7 on it as the main OS) the drive is SATA, as was the controller mode.

Therefore, when I reformatted it and started over with everything and installed XP 32-bit and 64-bit, I needed to change the mode to "compatible", otherwise XP would blue screen when I booted. Once I changed the option, I was able to boot and install the SATA drivers, reboot, turn the SATA mode back to AHCI and now they boot fine.

I have no idea what effect it would have changing from SATA mode to compatible mode, though. Basically, to switch from "compatible" to using SATA natively you need to appropriate windows XP SATA drivers. you can install them first, and then reboot and change the BIOS option. if it doesn't work you should be able to simply reboot and switch back to "compatible"... but don't hold me to anything if you try, I really have no idea.BC_Programmer,

i was unable to find any reference to the terms "AHCI" or "compatible" in the bios.  here's what the advanced tab>drive configuration has to offer:

use automatic mode---------enabled
ATA/IDE mode--------------enhanced
sata port 0--------ST3160023AS 160.0gb
sata port 1--------not installed
sata port 2--------not installed
sata port 3--------not installed
primary master--------TSSTcorpCD/DVD-W ATAPI
primary slave---------not installed


also on the boot tab:

boot tab>boot menu type-choice between "advanced" and "normal"


i looked over the drivers.  i have both saved with driver max and acquired at the official GATEWAY website.  none are specifically called sata.  here is a screenshot of the hdc folder created by driver max.  i would assume hdc stands for "hard drive controller"
i'll see if i can't also provide a secreenshot of the "system" folder. 



 

[recovering disk space - old attachment deleted by admin]here is a screenshot of the system folder.  if there are sata drivers here, they don't jump out at ya.  there didn't seem to be any other obvious place where sata drivers would be among my collection.
thanks BC_Programmer.

[recovering disk space - old attachment deleted by admin]There is no proof that emulation mode reduces PERFORMANCE that the user can measure in any typical single-user scenario.

(References bu request only.)

I am facing three problems :
(1) My monitor is not working, GIVING Sync. Out of Range
(2) I can't enter safe mode
(3) My computer sometimes gives POST error(i haven't count the beeps but they are definitely greater than three)
Now, i don't know what to do.Well, how would you know if you were in safe mode if the display isn't working?

Anyway, try your display on a different system or a different display on your system to make sure that isn't the problem, though my first guess is your graphics card may be on the fritz. Quote from: Allan on July 13, 2010, 09:16:58 AM

Well, how would you know if you were in safe mode if the display isn't working?

Anyway, try your display on a different system or a different display on your system to make sure that isn't the problem, though my first guess is your graphics card may be on the fritz.

I don't have a graphic card.

That's your problem then.  

All computers have a graphics card. they aren't all actual "cards" but as far as the computer is concerned it's a graphics card.

And given the fact that you are getting the out of range monitor message as well as various POST beeps I would be willing to put money behind it as the cause.

If you don't have an actual card you can install one to take over for your integrated graphics which appear to have failed.

My monitor wont turn on so I'm wondering if the picture's of the INTERNAL chip's are defective or anything.

Info: Two of the capacitors are a little bit bulged up.

Thanks

[recovering disk space - old attachment deleted by admin]They look fine, check the PSU and connectors. QUOTE from: dwegiel on July 11, 2010, 08:57:13 PM

They look fine, check the PSU and connectors.

Fuses are almost always clear glass so you can see if the element is OK or burnt out, but I've seen a few like this.  I don't know what the thinking behind this is.  Sometimes something like this isn't so much of a fuse as an direct electrical connection.  Hard to tell.

If you have a multimeter, pull the fuse and check the resistance across both ends.  If there is continuity it's OK.  If there is no continuity, the fuse is bad...

Slo-Blo fuse vs Fast-Blo.  Ceramic body could be high voltage.  Can't see the bulged caps.  The backside of the board looks a bit discolored, could be the flyback transformer (black one) is shot.  That's what usually goes on a CRT monitor.

Once again...Mind boggling, isn't it?
But they seem to be having a nice conversation, so who am I to interrupt?Im only ATTEMPTING to help the uservincent `1024,Been away for a few days. See others have come forth with "suggestions" but to answer your question " i not sure how? can u explain more clearly?" I will use my own case as an example and perhaps it will have relevance to your own situation.
  Down at the bottom of your SCREEN on the task bar i have an icon called "CREATIVE VOLUME control" (that is because what i have for a SOUND card is a PCI sound card called "creative soundblaster"). If i right click my mouse cursor over the icon it will display a variety of options. In my case the one that gives access to restoring the "defaults" is "eax console". If in the open eax console window i click on "defaults" it will return the parameters of the sound card to the defaults appropriate from the manufacturer for that device. This will solve an unknown change you may have inadvertently made by clicking on something related to your sound parameters that either you don't know you did or weren't aware you did. Are you still having issues with the use of the mic and headphones? truenorthYes, i am busy for the past few days. It only happens when i plug in both mic and headphone but when i only plug in headphone, it works fine. I think the problem is with the settings because when i off the mic boost, the bee sound is gone but my teammate cant hear what im talking. Therefore, i need to on the mic boost which result in the bbzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz sound in the background..

I hope u understand what im saying because its really irritating.

I've got this problem in XP.

After installing NVTray to OC my 6200, I get this, in the upper left corner of EVERY single game using JAVA, DirectX or Open GL. I'm BUGGED out. I don't know what to do. Please help.Hmmm... anyone? ANYONE?  It's an option in NVTray. FOUND it! Thanks bro!

well i happened along a GEFORCE 7650 GS and i know nothing about it ive researched it and still no useful info. Is it any better than the 7600? or 6600? (and yes i know there old please no rude answers been GETTING that all day >.>)I don't see a listing at nVidia's site.....sure about the Model #
All i can say is hook it up and see how it performs...i cant find any of nvidia's OLDER cards on their website bad on them. Quote from: Eric456 on JULY 12, 2010, 03:12:34 PM

i cant find any of nvidia's older cards on their website bad on them.

I am unable to logon to my Windows XP Home LAPTOP due to "the local policy of this system does not permit logon interactively". So I try to save the data on the hard drive (Fujitsu MHV2080AH) to my desktop with an USB2.0 to IDE/SATA adapter (Cables Unlimited brand). It does not work because the laptop hard drive does not show up on the desktop screen and there is a CONSTANT buzzing kind of sound while connected to the adapter. What is wrong here? Is the USB 2.0 to IDE/SATA adapter the right tool for this?  Or can I use a Kingwin USB2.0 enclosure kit for this task?  Thanks in advance for your insight!Double check your bios setup... you must select in BIOS to use the IDE or SATA drive. If it is not selected, it will not work. I've done this myself and used a sata to USB adapter, rather than IDE. Quote from: dwegiel on July 10, 2010, 09:18:32 PM

Double check your bios setup... you must select in BIOS to use the IDE or SATA drive. If it is not selected, it will not work. I've done this myself and used a sata to USB adapter, rather than IDE.

patio, I believe I have the better understanding of what he is saying. Flame me for being wrong, but whatever.

He is trying to recover the data from his laptop's drive on his desktop. It is not detected in the desktop. He cannot log on on the LAPTOP. Understand? Once again, if I am wrong, sorry.

Hi,

I facing problem on my intel pentium Dual core CPU. I am USING pentium D 800mhz processor and 1gb ram. Motherboard is intel 946 GZIS chipset.
I am not GETTING DISPLAY on monitor, through monitor is working fine on different CPU.
Sometimes i get display, when i start CPU after 2-3 DAYS. At that time, i am able to work for about 6-10 hours non stop. But if shut down or restart pc, next time i do not get display but CPU STARTS. Some times, at startup cpu sounds a long beep.
Kindly help me with some solution.

Thanks in advance.Sounds like it may be a problem with the video card.Try to purchase a new video card, or find a way of testing the one you currently have. Check for any loose connections. Clean out the dust from your PC as well.

Ok So i have a NEC versa 2000C that has a 514 mb hdd and 8 mb RAM but I NEED to know the cpu speed, or i want to know but the bios won't tell me. Is there a way to find out using the os it has. Its using windows 95

any ideas?GoogleHelp I need to know if someone has accessed my PC from a remote computer. FB sent me a message that my FB Acct: was accessed by a remoter com. My husband and I just separeated and he has the knowledge and the know how to do these things. And I'm finding little things on my PC that tell me what I dont exactly know..How WOULD I find out that he/someone has  been accessing my personal e-mail acct. and suchok you need to post this on a new post not on a OPEN oneAnd there's no need to Post the same issue more than once...

I was refereed to this forum from an auto forum and I want to thank everyone in advance for your help.


My ex asked me to look at my daughters computer. When I first looked at it it would boot but to a corrupted vista install. I pulled the drive because my daughter had school work she needed saved. Got the files off put the drive back in to to a re-install of Vista the power BUTTON came on and the DVD drive flashed but nothing else. No beeps no video no BIOS nothing. I checked to make sure everything was connected. Then I started removing things one at a time but still nothing. I put my video card in to see if it was just the video that died and that didn't work EITHER. I THINK I have it narrowed down to the main board or power supply but have no idea how to test either.

The computer is an Acer AM1640-U1401A
Intel duel core processor
2 -512gb DDDR2 memory
250gb SATA hd
DVD+R DL muti-recorder

I added a Linksys N wireless card last year. Ran fine with this setup until now.

I should note that when I saved the files for her and had the drive in my PC my anti-virus software went insane and found 26 virus' I scanned the drive with PartitionWizard Home edition and it passed the surface scan test. Vista Repair InstallThank you but how does that help me? If the computer booted I would have no problem doing a clean install of vista. Quote from: Rodville on July 12, 2010, 09:57:03 PM

...No beeps no video no BIOS nothing. I checked to make sure everything was connected. Then I started removing things one at a time but still nothing. I put my video card in to see if it was just the video that died and that didn't work either. I think I have it narrowed down to the main board or power supply but have no idea how to test either...