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No point leaving it about, SEND it back if possible.
You MIGHT not be able to get money back so if you get a new one it could work.
Always worth a try rather than leaving a CPU HANGING about.
Otherwise you could try taking it to a shop to get tested, but they'd charge for that.
If you or a friend have a different computer with an AM2 socket (which i'm GUESSING you're using) then you could try using it in that.
No, it's a Socket 939.

All the info about the cards and all that i got from their description on the page i found them.

Okay so i do not know which one is better even though 1 of them is more expensive than the other one.Why i am confused ? BEcause i didn't hear to much about the "Expensive one" While about the other i heard a lot.

Here are their secs (I am not to good into rekognizing good video cards by their specs )

Okay : First (The CHEAPER one)

Asus ATI HD 3650 512MB AGP 8x

Code: [Select]ProcessorVideo Processor: ATI Radeon HD 3650
Processor Frequency (MHz): 725

Code: [Select]GeneralMaximum CRT resolution: 2048 x 1536
Maximum DVI resolution: 2560 x 1600

Code: [Select]MemoryCapacitate memorie (MB):
512
Memory Frequency (MHz): 1 GHz ( 500 MHz DDR2 )
memory type :DDR2

Code: [Select]Others (BITI): 128
Technology: OpenGL 2.0 support

V-Cool Heatsink
Cabluri si adaptoare incluse:
1 x DVI to D-Sub adaptor
1 x DVI to HDMI adaptor
1 x HDTV-out cable
Cooler:
ASUS Utilities & Driver


And now the one i first wanted to get (I think this one is better but i just want to be sure )

His Ati Radeon HD2600XT 512MB GDDR3 128bit AGP

Code: [Select]DescriptionATi Radeon HD 2600XT 512MB (128bit) GDDR3 Dual Link DVI TV Fan, HDMI, HDCP, 800MHz core, 1400MHz memory

Code: [Select]ProcessorVideo Processor: Radeon HD 2600
Processor Frequency (MHz): 800
RAMDAC (MHz): 400 (No idea what this is )

Code: [Select]General
Crossfire: no
Maximum DVI resolution : 2560*1600
SLI: no


Code: [Select]Memorymemory capacity (MB): 512
Memory frequency(MHz): 1400
memory type: GDDR3


Code: [Select]Others (biti): 128
Technology: ATI Avivo HD
Included soft: Driver disc
Adapters and cables included:DVI to HDMI Adapter
DVI to VGA/D-sub Adapter
Cooler:yes



Sorry for creating a thread to ask this , but i wanna be sure,
I would have to say the second one is faster.

Though POWERFUL cards like that are still going to be limited by the Pentium 4/AMD i'm guessing you have, because AGP died with socket 478/slower AMD's a long time ago

Was given a Gigabyte Ga-81945G Pro BOARD which takes a Pentium D LGA775 processor.[the board is new].I have a AMD Athlon64 3500 cpu [new].My question is would i get a better system by using the Gigabyte board & buying a processor for it or would i be better off using the AMD cpu & buying the board for it.Boy, you'd better get the lid back on that can of worms.I know they are outdated: The system will be for a starterYou have a chip and a board...
They won't work together.
So the best way to determine which way to go would be to price out a chip for the board you have...
Then price out a board for the chip you have...

Then look at the performance results for one against the other and you will know where to spend your money.That's not what I meant. I just meant that in a round about way you're asking if Intel or AMD is better. At least that's what I'm getting from the question. And that's the kind of can of worms that will MAKE for a 10 page thread of arguments. It's kind of like the Ford/Chevy argument. Personally, I would get an Intel chip for the board. I'm not GOING to tell you that's the best thing, though.I know the diff:Thanks Patio.I just might get a Intel board comboQuote from: jamesj2001 on February 20, 2009, 01:18:38 PM

That's not what I meant. I just meant that in a round about way you're asking if Intel or AMD is better.

My slave drive is a 233 Gb maxtor and has all my files, pics, and music on it. It was working fine, then I turned on my pc and tried to access the drive and I GOT a pop up telling me the drive hasn't been formatted. I closed the window and got a copy of get DATA, a file recovery program. get data found my files on the drive. The drive is listed in device manager, it is enabled, and I can SEE it in my computer and in computer management, xp just doesnt read it as formatted. Does anyone know how to repair this drive so that I can access it? I can't afford to get another drive to use the get data program with. I am running xp pro sp2 everything else is fineWhat file system is listed on that drive in disk management?Slave Drive Tutorialboth drives were formatted with ntfs format, in computer management the slave format is blank. Otherwise the system says the drive is healthy, enabled and working properly. If I try to access it through windows (say my computer) I get a pop up telling me the drive needs to be formatted. Friday I pulled files for a relative and it was working perfectly. Monday when I returned home I had this problem. My 22 yr old daughter was on my space and checked her email over the weekend, but that was the only activity as far as I know. She saves her pics to my C: drive, not my slave. I am running a full VERSION of avast professional with script blocking, mail, IM, P2P shield, Filesystem, and web shield scanners running.Quote

get data found my files on the drive

I can't afford to get another drive to use the get data program with.

There is online data storage.
http://online-storage-service-review.toptenreviews.com/

hey there everyone i got a problem tonight i added 512 ddr memory to my system it currently has 2 1 gig sticks so i added 2 256 sticks and its only reading 2.42gb ram in windows xp 64bit i dont have onboard video so i know its not that using it up my current system is Amd athlon 64 3500+ with a asrock 939dualsata mobo What OS do you have? Some 32 bit OS will only do 2GB for applications, but the additional memory can be used by the system itself.
And if the applications can only do 2GB, there is not much point in adding the 3GB switch to the BOOT.INI file. using windows xp pro 64bit with sp2Quote

using windows xp pro 64bit with sp2

My computer was acting a little fishy...so i decided it might be best to just reinstall windows...So i restarted and tried to boot from my disk..the CD drive would start to spin the disk...NEXT It would say boot from disk, pause for a few seconds and then say 1. HD system type-(00)..then it would just stop with a blinking cursor at the bottom...After trying this a few times i decided to try to load it through safe mode and install windows overtop of the old version in a partition then clear the old stuff out later...i got through the initial stages until the restart then the same problem occured. I thought MAYBE there was a problem in BIOS...something life it wasnt reading my hard drive or cd drive on bootup...i fooled around a little to no avail...next i tried resetting bios settings to both fail safe and optimal settings, again this did nothing to help...im a little lost as to what the next step is or for that matter what the problem is...thanks for any suggestions...btw i know the copy of windows works, as i have used it before and it is a genuine copy...but for that matter i have tried another copy and the same problem happens
Try setting resetting the BIOS to defaults. If it passes POST u know the BIOS setting r correct. If Windows can not be started in safe mode. Try using the RECOVERY Console. I always try using check disk. It is not the most reliable utility to check the HDD, but 8 of 10 time it will lead to the conclusion of bad HDD.

Hello out there,
I have a PC from my previous job running Windows 2000.
My question is: When I turn it on, it looks for the network drives and that creates LAGS and delays in processing. Is there a way I can remove the network drives that it searches for ?. Probably from the login script? without REINSTALLING windows 2000 and lose the programs that it has. I want to CONVERT this PC to a regular PC that I can connect to my home network. The PC is fairly new and has ALOT of good high end parts. any input would be appreciated.
thanks,
~CHave u tried CREATING a new hardware profile?

Hello all, I'm new here. Seems like a great forum, hope someone can help! Here's the story; Ok...so I put a 250GB HDD in my old lappy with XP. It only read 127GB, but I WENT into the disk manager and was able to creat another drive for the unallocated space.

I got greedy and wanted to merge the 2 drives and used a free program(EASEUS) to do this....it didn't work! My laptop rebooted and I thought it would now just be the C: drive with all the space. The other drive showed in "My COMPUTER" still and needed to be reformatted, but it was unable to format it.

I went back into disk manager and it said my other drive was still there and "healthy". I decided to delete that partition and try to get it back to "unallocated space". Well I deleted it....and here we are; I have one drive with 127GB now and the other space now doesn't show up in disk manager. How can I get that space back? Thanks much for any help!!

Jim
So it's no longer in Disk MANAGEMENT?

How big is C:\ now? Tried restarting?There is a Linux partition call magic partition. I have used this SW to increase and decrease NTFS partition. U can Google it, I used and never had any problems.

The pc posts to the motherboard screen then it does a scrool into the safe mode screen then goes back into the board screen.When in the safe mode i cannot ENTER it.It then does the same thing.Not getting any beeps:USING 1 500 GB sata DRIVE wita a pci xpress card & 2 GIG ram.Also i can boot with the windows XP disc & it shows on the screen. What could it be?You post is rather hard to understand.
The first screen you see is called the POST screen. After that the screen clears and you see the Windows boot menu if you had hit the F8 key. It does not scroll on a standard system. What kind of computer do you have?Lets call it making a loop

Hi all
I have a problem.When I try to window repair my friend's Pc I see the message enter the administrator password.I don't know the password and my friend also doesn't know.
He never put password but he have been send to computer service when his computer has problem.I think the service or someone put the password for this setting.
Now when he open the computer,he see bios information ,window logo and check DISK message with blue screen .Check disk complete only stage 1 of 3 and stage 2 of 3 does not complete 0 % still stand.So he try to RESTART and this stage again .
He used window XP professional SP 2.How should i try to CLEAR this password.
Pls someone give me some instructions.

Thanks a lot
greenQuote

.How should i try to clear this password.

Okay, so here's the scoop:

Last night I partitioned my hdd, so a new partition WOULD be in front of my Windows XP partition, and it worked. BUT, I cannot boot up Windows XP now; the computer shows the LOGO where you can enter the BIOS, but I don't know how I can choose which partition I want to boot.

Could anybody please help?

Rye.What partition tool did you use ? ?
What do you mean by "in front of my XP partition" ? ?
How was the new partition setup...active...extended...? ?
More info and more info on the machine and the drive itself.

The BIOS can only select a physical drive to boot from ...not a specific partition...I USED Paragon partition mangaer; I think it was extended becuase I took space off the 1st partition that was AVAILABLE and used that for the new partition.There's no way to tell what you did from the info provided.

I have a Window 98 Gateway which had an IBM Deskstar 64.1GB hard drive that provided me with eight YEARS of service. A few days ago it passed away. YES, the dreaded tick...tick...tick of death. I have since purchased another IBM Deskstar, but with 76.8 GB. The system is not auto detecting the new hard drive. I've tried the FDISK path, but I can't even FDISK. In the BIOS SETUP mode the master hard drive is nowhere to be found. My jumpers are set as the master hard drive. I'm suspecting I may need a driver for this hard drive. How can I load a driver on the system if it won't boot up? I'm curently using my Windows 95 computer as a backup. I only have a 1.44 DISK for DOWNLOADING. Any thoughts or ideas. Thanks.you can pop in a copy of Win 95 or even Win 98 and boot from the CD.
to load the drivers.Remove all drives except the new one...
Then boot up and see if the BIOS recognises it...
If so DLoad a fresh copy of a Win98SE bootdisk from bootdisk.com...
Select the one with CDROM support and follow the info on creating a bootable floppy...
Re-boot with the floppy in and you should be able to run FDISK from there.

I have recently built a new computer, and when I try to boot I get the "Verifying DMI Pool Data" message and the computer fails to continue booting. I have read the article on this site regarding this problem, but the solutions seem to all pertain to computers with operating systems already intstalled on them. The strangest part about this problem is that when I initially tried to install Windows 2000, the computer worked fine and I would have been able to install the OS, except that I didn't realize that W2K would only recognize 130 gigabytes of my 160g hard-drive. It wasn't until after I had made an install disk with service pack 4 integrated on it that I started having the problem. The only thing I did between the first installation try (without the SP4 disk) and the second (with the SP4 disk) was try to start fdisk USING the W2K boot disks that I made on another computer, which didn't work because the boot disks where win32. I don't know if that could have put files on my hard-drive that would prevent the computer from booting properly or not.
I have tried different cables and resetting my CMOS, but the only thing that has gotten me past the "Verifying DMI Pool Date" line is to un-plug my hard-drive, which at least narrows the problem down, but I am lost as to what to do next. I would greatly appreciate any help.either DOWNLOAD a proper set of boot disks>http://www.bootdisk.com/bootdisk.htm or alter the bios and boot fron the cd install disk...If this message occurs on my PC, it is meant that my harddisk is not properly configured.

Instead of setting my hard disk type to auto, I have to set it to LBA. Try each of the different settings avaible.Try using the Clear CMOS jumper to remove the corrupted CMOS data, then reboot into CMOS and use the 'Factory Default' setting before customising.

Ensure that your hard drives are properly connected and configured.

Yes, a 160GB drive (149 to 150 GB actual capacity) must be partitioned as a 128GB or smaller partition and a 21Gb or larger secondary partition. I think XP overcomes this to a maximum partition size 256GB, but I haven't tried it myself.Hello all. I was having this same problem that so many OTHERS were having problems with. I've tried everything short of installing a new Windows XP. Anyhow, this is what I ended up doing.

I went into the BIOS setup and set the boot sequence to Floppy, CDrom and HDD-0 and then saved it. After leaving BIOS setup I had to turn my computer back of than on again so the XP CD will boot that I put in during the BIOS changes. The CD booted and the installation started. But, as the setup went through it's installation, it showed me options. One of them was asking, if I wanted to keep my files intact. Than I pressed L in my next serious of questions. I finished asking any questions that was asked during the installation process.

Anyhow, all of my personal files that use to be in My Documents on my desktop was moved. I found them by clicking on My Computer, HDD icon, Documents and Settings, Folder with my name only on it and My Name's Documents. However, I did have to reinstall several software PROGRAMS including my modem softwar and my ISP which was no big deal.

Though, you may have to reintall some programs, you will still have your personal files. However, I backed up everything on another hard drive before I started the new Windows installation.

So rather than to deal with the persistant "Verifying DMI pool data", just reinstalled Windows XP, paying attention the the choices you have so you don't lose your personal files.


XPhater
This is FOUR YEARS old topic!
Please, start your own, new topic.Oops, should have looked at date. Wow, talk about ancient.

Greetings Board,

My self sufficiency has finally reached its limits!! Time to join the interdependent forum here to get some help. Thanks in advance!!

I push the power button. Screen has no video input. I hear no beeps. Fans are running. I was having trouble with display drivers in XP with nvidia before this happened. I tried to reinstall many times. MB has no on board graphics and using a g5200 video card.

I have RESEATED ram and video card, cleared cmos UMPTEEN times by removing battery and attempting to us jumper. Still no video.

I have tried to go into bios blind by using the del key f8 key to set defaults and then return to reboot. still no success.

Any clues what to do next. I have tried two monitors with same results.

cables all look good and have cleaned the mb.

Clueless

SammeeePower down.
Hook the monitor up to the onboard video jack.
Boot up and travel to Device Manager ...find the vid card ...right click it and select uninstall.
If you recieve a warning ignore it.
Now go to Add/Remove programs...uninstall any video software that came with the card.
Power down.
Re-boot.
Re-install the drivers for the card...use the ones that shipped with the card for now...
Post back with your results...Thanks for the fast help!! Unfortunately there is NO onboard video!! ANy other ideas... PleaseOOops sorry sammee...i read that wrong.
Try booting into safemode and doing what was instructed above...
To get into safemode power down and re-boot...as the machine is powering up tap F8 repeatedly before you see the Windows splash screen.
Choose safe mode from the menu and let it do it's thing.
You will see long screens of B&W TEXT on the screen this is normal...
When you finally get to Windows all your icons will be moved and maybe larger...again don't panic ...this is normal.
Follow the instructions above and then re-boot and re-install the vid card drivers...Thanks But The computer never EVEN gets to the bios. THere is no video input at all. I can't see anything at all. I did all those things that I wrote in the first message and still it only has black no video inpout screen. So I can't do what you suggest at all. It is a pain. I have now un-hooked everything on the main board except the ram and video card and power supply and it still happens. I just know it has something to do with those video diplay drivers but I cant put my finger on how it is still affecting the boot process even after clearing the cmos . In fact a few times it has actually booted all the way to windows. Perhaps 2 x out of 50. But when I try to reproduce it a second time I just cannot.

The contacts on the ram and the video card look clean and there seems to be no dust . The power supply is also a farely new on and higher quality.

Any more thoughts? try a DIFFERENT video card.

lets just say the best DRIVERS are the ones you get off the installation CD except I didn't have an installation CD. I had to reinstall Ultimate from scratch- and find all the drivers. It said I had an "outdated" version... and the recommended version was the GENERIC one.thats when you use 3rd party solutions.Quote from: macdad- on February 27, 2009, 11:18:51 AM

thats when you use 3rd party solutions.

but when you lose the driver and dont have the CD for it...then thats when you go for a 3rd party solution.

Le-sigh~

My speakers randomly pop sometimes and make a sort of static sound sometimes to. I'm not entirely sure why.. but I'm sure it's not healthy.

It also SEEMS to do it more if say.. I'm loading a video file, not always.. just sometimes.

Tips.. suggestions? The speakers are Creative2.1 Inspire T3030's.. my sound card is a Creative Sound BLASTER Audigy 4.

Also noticed even opening things like control panel makes them like to pop more..There are tips to identify this problem and then the solution;

1. your speaker is DAMAGED. The solution is repair it to the shop with your warranty

2 these day, the virus are hardly development, sometimes it can make your sound system malfunction or disability to WORK. The solution is reinstall driver @ reinstall your OS. ( make sure your computer does not had virus )

3. your sound card are damage ( I GUESS )... To make sure there are no damage in your sound card try to uninstall the sound card ( THIS IS NOT RECOMMEND )... then try to listen your speaker with on board sound system .Well what I've done now is simply set the system to use the on-board sound, plugged the speakers into that and so far, no popping...

So I guess that would mean it's the sound card, which makes me rather sad... to tell the truth. Perhaps trying new drivers will help?Carefully remove the sound card and clean the contacts with a QTip and alcohol...
Use a can of compressed air to blow out the slots and any other dust.
If blasting the fan/heatsink combos hold the fan blades in place with the QTip to prevent damage.

As always when working inside the case remove all power sources and take anti static precautions.
Carefully re-assemble and see if this improves things...

i need schematic or TROUBLE shooting for repair motherboard.. coz i'm newbi in hardware repair... thanks for help me.. ( 8)sorry my english not good)Here's a great WEBSITE with a lot of great INFORMATION.

http://fonerbooks.com/cpu_ram.htm


I can recommend the FLOWCHART book, a good addition to any PC library.

I'm confused! This is a look of my System Information on my COMPUTER.

DescriptionDisk drive
Manufacturer(Standard disk drives)
ModelST380011A
Bytes/Sector512
Media LoadedYes
Media TypeFixed HARD disk media
Partitions2
SCSI Bus0
SCSI Logical Unit0
SCSI Port0
SCSI Target ID0
Sectors/Track63
Size74.53 GB (80,023,265,280 bytes)
Total Cylinders10,337
Total Sectors156,295,440
Total Tracks2,480,880
Tracks/Cylinder240
PartitionDisk #0, Partition #0
Partition Size5.23 GB (5,620,253,184 bytes)
Partition Starting Offset32,256 bytes
PartitionDisk #0, Partition #1
Partition Size13.68 GB (14,685,511,680 bytes)
Partition Starting Offset5,620,285,440 bytes

And when I look at the properties of C:, it tells me there is only 13.9 GB. If I have a 80 GB SIZE hard drive why don't I see it in the properies of C:?

Quote from: tomerams on February 26, 2009, 05:35:35 PM

PartitionDisk #0, Partition #1
Partition Size13.68 GB (14,685,511,680 bytes)

I hope this helps- If you want to resize your existing C:\ drive, I'm sure there are members that know of free ways of doing it.

can anyone suggest how i can check my mic, It says it detects one (built in im assuming) and all mutes are off when i checked on them. but still nothing. I am running vista if that helps you.
thanks
marymarybeth, There is a need for more info.what are the SPECS on the computer.An assumption from your post is that you do not have any external mike installed?How is it that you have determined that yours is NOT working?What is it that you are trying to do?truenorthMary,

This applies to XP.....I assume Vista is much the same,

Go to Start> Settings>CONTROL Panel > SOUNDS and Audio DEVICES>Voice>Voice Recording

See if your microphone is the default device and check the volume. Use the Test Hardware feature. Good Luckdid all that and still nothing. just trying to TALK on messanger but wont allow it, no external mic.Connected to the front or rear of the machine ? ?
If the front use the rear...many machines ship without those front headers even connected.not an external mic. When i checked it said it had internal and that it was working

Well, truenorth, it appears that I may have taken too long to reply before, and everyone lost interest in the issue. I recall you mentioning that you had other methods of retrieving the data; are they too complicated or costly to attempt before trying to use a USB enclosure?There were plenty of suggestions not tried yet while you were waiting for a response...
Don't blame us for losing interest.will it not read it if its a C drive when you already have a C drive on your new computer?Man, I finally got my internet re-connected, and still no luck with my old C: drive. Hey PATIO, I did try the previous suggestions; although, I didn't try the stuff on your link to TAKE ownership of a drive because the files on the drive were not visible, and I didn't buy a USB enclosure because truenorth suggested that I wait until the thread evolved more. I did try setting the jumper to the master position, though, and it still didn't work. I wasn't trying to "blame" anyone, I just figured that the post had been disregarded because that's what happened when I tried posting the same topic in the help forum on Vista's site. Sorry.Try jumpering it as slave and connect it to the middle ribbon connector...
Do this on both IDE 0 and IDE 1
Restart after each attempt to make sure it is being recognised in the BIOS...
Do you feel the drive SPINNING up ? ?The drive does spin when I connect the power cable to it, but my computer doesn't have IDE capabilities, which is why I had to get the USB-PATA adapter.Does the drive show up in Disk Management?Sorry...i misread after revisiting this thread...as long as it's hooked up to SATA 2 or above it should be treated as a slave drive by the controllers as long as the SATA1 drive is functioning properly...
How does it show up in Disk Management ? ?Did you buy an external housing to hold your old hard drive to transfer your data? If you did, the drive jumper must stay in the master position for it to work. The first time I did it my computer would not recognize the external drive. As soon as I put the jumper back to the master position it found it and worked and still works great.SATA drives don't have jumpers...except for speed.Unless I read it wrong, she SAID she had a pata connection which i thought was a 40 or 44 pin ide depending on the size of the hard drive. She said her new connection was a sata so I am assuming that there would be a jumper involved in the connection.Sorry I used the term she, just assumed, The topic starter is what I should have used.Device Installation:
1. Confirm device jumpers are set to master mode.
(3.5” IDE/PATA HDD or CD/DVD Optical Drive Only)
Note: SEE FAQs for more information about master mode
2. Connect SATA/IDE connector to SATA/IDE device.
Note: When connecting PATA 2.5” or 3.5” drives to DriveWire, it is necessary
to align the polarizing pins in the DriveWire’s connector up with the open
space on the hard drive to avoid breaking pins on the hard drive.
3. Connect the AC power adapter to DriveWire. For 3.5” PATA hard drives,
plug the AC adapter directly into the hard drive.
CAUTION: Power adapter must be properly alligned
to prevent damage.
4. Connect DriveWire to your computer using the
Mini USB Cable

i built a really nice COMPUTER but when everything is plugged in NOTHING happens no LEDs no fans nothing. the mother board I'm using said that i needs 500W the POWER supply is only a 450W one. i was planning on buying a better one later that one just came with the case but would this be the cause of nothing happening or did a REALLY screw up and did SOMETHING WORSE than a poor power supply Yes, get a new power supply.

What is the brand and model of your motherboard?
Thermal paste applied properly ? ?
MBoard standoffs all in place ? ?
Heatsink/fan combo mounted properly ? ?
4 pin ATX power cord plugged in to the MBoard ? ?

Hello

Is Kingston RAM Memory good for HP Laptop?specify more LIKE:

• The DDR TYPE(e.g. DDR1, DDR2, DDR3)
• The size of the RAM chip
• The max amount of RAM you HP can handle
• The DDR type that your HP requires
• The speed of the RAM chip
• The speed of a RAM chip that your HP can handle

Recently, my Dad gave me a DVD RAM drive that just stopped opening one day. He'd opened it up before so I don't really know how it would of been before. But it seems 'normal' to me, course not having done this before I dunno. xP

Since having it in my possession I have added a rubber band at the front and it now opens! But.. it doesn't close. It just decides to reopen.

Normally at this point I'd probably go to buy a new one, seeing as they seem cheap now days.. but as I was given it to try work on. I'd really like to see if I can get it working.

If you need more information, or pictures, just ask.Inside the Drive there is a sensor that TELLS the drive it has successfully closed. If it does not get this OK signal from the sensor that -- some are optical switches with a plastic flag mechanical flag that moves between the optical photodiodes and others are a mechanical limit switch --- it will assume thatthe drive has jammed and it will open to eject the CD or DVD as a way for you to not lose your CD or DVD in the drive.

I would start with looking for this drive closed mechnaical gate and see if there is something impeding its ability to function and report back to the main BOARD that the drive is successfully closing.

Only other TIME I seen this and not the limit switch or photo diodes, it was a damaged eject buttom where someone smashed the eject button with something and the microswitch was stuck (ON) telling the drive to Eject even if the drive was forcefully shut with pushing the tray in. It would spit it back out.So I have to find this limit switch then? RIGHT... any kinds of pictures so I can have a better idea of what to look for?Look way in the back where the door goes when it is closed and see if you see a micro-switch that the door would hit when it is closedQuote

I have added a rubber band at the front and it now opens!

Hi: I have a three year old Acer laptop with XP. For the lasy few months a TWO inch strip on the right side of the screen is blacked out and that portion of the display cannot be viewed. However COMMAND functions in that area remain active - but hidden. For example, if you accurately guess where "x", close screen, is located and click the screen will close. I don't know whether this is a setting problem or a hardware problem with the display screen. What to do? THANKS Welcome to the forums.
Unfortunately, it sounds to me like the laptop screen is failing, and that can be EXPENSIVE to fix as you'd need a new screen.
Try an external monitor though, if you have a spare, and see if that has any issues.Quote

Try an external monitor though, if you have a spare,
and see if that has any issues.

My laptop s graphics CARD has went out (geforce go 7800) and I am looking for a replacement. I found a couple on ebay, but I was wondering if there was another place to look. A new one is well over $300 so that is not an option.If I have to pay more that $200, I will buy another computer. What laptop is this? Is it one of the very rare ones with replaceable graphics chips?It is a Dell inspiron 9400. This is the one I was looking at http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=270343903109

If I can get it for less than $200, I will buy it. I was just wondering if there was another place to look? I have googled this to death and haven't found any. It is STILL a very usable laptop. It has a Intel Core Duo MOBILE Processor T2600 2.16GHz, 2 gigs of ram, 120 gig hd, and a 17 in. screen. It is worth putting some money into, but just how much is what I need to figure out. Quote

Comes with non-DOA warranty

Hello.

Can anyone suggest to me the best TV tuner in TODAY's market? I am looking for an external tv tuner w/ the following features:

Local analog and digital receiver (so I can receive local channels when I am on the GO and not connected to the cable tv wire via the COAXIAL plug)
Coaxial support (so I can plug in my cable tv wire to the tv tuner)
Audio support that will plug in from the tv tuner to both the tv and the computer
Video support that will plug into the tv and the computer
USB connectivity from the tv tuner to the computer
Wireless would also be neat but not a must though.
FM radio if possible too.

Does anyone know such a tv tuner that is this powerful in the market right now? . Thank you.watch what happens when i do this ....

www.google.com ..........then.............

results!
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=best+tv+tuner+for+computer&btnG=Google+SearchA better search would probably be reviews computer tv tuner, as best computer tv tuner will GIVE you tons of commercial sites selling tv tuners which are not primarily reviews.

Recently purchased a radeon hd 4830 graphics card and I just noticed that the power supply on my computer is only 300 watts , 500 watts are required to run the card.

So I'm looking to upgrade, couple of questions

Would any new power supply fit or am I GOING to need a certain one? Preferably looking for one that's less than $30 and that I can get through newegg.

Also it's going to need those connector deals to connect to the graphics card since it REQUIRES it, mine's a piece of crap and didn't have that as well.

Any help or points in the right direction is appreciated, thanks! Make of computer would help Sorry forgot that, it's a crappy Dell Inspiron 531, there also seems to be not much breathing room in there

Processor is a Athlon 64 X2 Dual Core 4000+, 2gb ram, VistaOne reference SAYS that card takes 110 watts of power
Where do you live?
Hopefully someplace that has cool weather
Are you sure 500 watts will do? says min 500 watts on the box. it's also suppose to connect to the power supply and mine has no empty power cables or whatever.At any rate i would not risk a $30.00 PSU on a $200.00 vid card.
You may want to rethink your strategy here...card was $100 (and I had a giftcard to go with it). I recently got Left4Dead gifted to me and all I'm wanting is specs good enough to play that, didn't realize this would be so hard and wind up costing so much.

if the power supply will cost me more but you guys can pretty much guarantee it'll run for me give it to me. also if i sound clueless it's cause i am, barely knew what a power supply was before today.A power supply is usually something you shouldn't skimp on. Buying a cheap power supply is likely to fry, and take out a more expensive part with it. You should look for well known brands such as antec, ocz, thermaltake, or the similar.

I've had a cooler master before and here's one near your price range:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171031. They're usually pretty dependable from what I understand/experienced.

For a little above your price range you could pick one of these up:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817702010 I personally haven't heard to many negative things about them.

To make a LONG story short, read the reviews on the power supplies, if you've never heard of the brand, stay away. I'd trust a 300 watt antec over a 750 watt logisys product.hm, I'll look into both, probably buy either of those tomorrow.

If anyone has any other SUGGESTIONS please let me know, thanks.

well guy's i was just checking out my bro's computer and i saw this strange thing the computer will boot normally but while loading the programs at startup the screen will go blank for a second.this happens twice but after that the system works normally with out any problem.......
the os is win xp it has ONBOARD display card ................
do u think there is any problem with my graphics card Anything installed/downloaded/run recently (before the problem)?

What Graphics Card are you using?QUOTE from: abubucker0 on June 17, 2008, 11:33:03 PM

while loading the programs at startup the screen will go blank for a second.this happens twice but after that the system works normally with out any problem.......
the os is win xp it has onboard display card ................

My Shuttle with onboard graphics does exactly the same. It has always done that. At the same time as the screen blanks there is a click from the speakers. I think it is just setting up the display drivers and video mode.

But I have seen a few cards on ebay that say they have DirectX 10 and it supports XP and even 2000.

Thanks, m_260, for answering that .......errrrr..........again!

Hi guys, I have been wating to build my own pc for quite some time now but haven't got around to it due to school/money. Now that the Aus. Government is handing out free cash and massive rebates on computers, well yeah, time to build a pc
I just need help checking over my components and seeing if everything is compatible and that i haven't MISSED any hardware that is important.

Here is a list of what i want to buy:

Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium64bit(OEM)

Antec 850W TruePower Quattro ATX & EPS 12V Power Supply, Modular Cable

Antec TWELVE HUNDRED Full Tower Gaming Case NO PSU

Western Digital 1TB SATAII 32M 3GB/s(WD1001FALS)

Leadtek WinFast 280GTX 1G GDDR3 PCI E Silent Fansink

GSkill 4G(2x2048MB) DDR3 1600 PC12800CL7-7-7-18(F3-12800CL7D-4GBPI)

Asus DRW-22B1ST 22X DVDRW SATA Retail Black NERO8

Asus RAMPAGE-Extreme X48 LGA775 DDR3 M/B

(already have an intel E8400 dual core CPU)

If you have any suggestions on anything else that should be bought or changed please let me know.

Thanks in advance, nibblit.

hmm, no replies yet......i just need to know if it will all work together, then i'll buy it.

ThanksHow long can you wait? USB 3.0 is coming out the first of next year and it will read and write at the same time at incredible speeds. That along with a flash memory hard drive for gaming and the HD you seggested for storge would be a great system. By then ddr3 will have come down in price ALOT and I bet a 295gtx video card will be reasonable also. Can you wait another year? Good luck.Umm, at the moment no, because i don't know if the government will still be giving discounts out, and I sort of need it this year lol. So will all my hardware work?

Ohh and thanks for you reply What kind of budget do you have? The antec 900 is also a good box PLUS thermalrite has some nise boxes that would savw you some money unless you plan on having several drives or several HDs and unless you are going to run sli and multiple drives a 630watt modular psu would be plenty. I'm assuming you want to play games with you unit. You might think of a 80 gig ssd for games and your 1tb for storage. The ram looks great, you might also want to consider a HD4870 video card it uses gddr5 tech. it also comes in a 1gigwell, im getting it for half price, so i might as well go all out while i can. Thanksfor the suggestion annyway I'm pretty sure everything would work..
Although last I remember, DDR3 RAM is only compatible with the X58 Chipset & the new Intel core i7 processors.
So you'd have to GET DDR2 RAM, not DDR3.

Quote from: trellech on February 26, 2009, 02:14:35 PM

Hope you are not afraid of the dark......................

I am so pleased that you are going to take my advice.That clears the boards for nicer people to come and help and advise.
There is nothing wrong with my attitude, it looks like you got out the wrong side of the bed. You just reread your comments and think hard about your bullying and somewhat aggressive attitude.
I cannot understand why people like you bother lurking on these boards and want to flex their virtual muscles against those who are only seeking help and advice.
Your primary objection to me is because I posted my request on other websites.
I am free to do so, after all that is one of the beautiful things about the internet.
I can disseminate my questions to many people who genuinely want to help me.
One should be free to ask the same question of many people on many other sites.

Perhaps you should consider standing for Government as the new leader of the Web Police Party?
All you seem to want to do is become a self styled policemen of the web.

What right have you to do that? None.
So I hope we have exhausted our DIFFERENCES, agree to differ and move on to other things in life.


Hope you are not afraid of the dark......................

I am unsure how to do this. How to get into safemode was one idea.

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/811151

This requires you to be able to type and once logged in I cannot type anything.
What about system restore as it was great yesterday?

Go ahead...

Nope no way will it allow a restore point.

...which means?

Look Mr Broni, I am an average guy trying to fix a problem. If you want to help me fine. If you do not want to help me but want to tease, irritate and pick holes in my technique then go elsewhere and leave me alone. Hopefully others with gifted minds and kind and helpful natures will read my posts and give me advice instead of asking idiotic questions like you are doing. So if you want to help fine..if not why don't you go play with your keyboard in a dark room and leave us alone?

I have a Compaq evo d310 that won't boot up. I was told when I had it checked that the power supply was bad. So, I have replaced the power supply on the unit and it's still doing the same thing. I know enough to get me by but am not a wizard with this stuff. I would like to try to fix it if anyone has any suggestions. The unit will act like it is starting up....the power light comes on the front of the unit but gives no beeps....the monitor is black....the cd drive is starting with a blinking light but then nothing happens. I can't get anything to show on the screen of even trying to boot. Does anyone have any suggestions? I am running Windows XP on it. The last thing that happened to it was this.....I was working on an email and left it open....got up to do an errand in the office and turned back around to a blue screen saying that the win32 driver was corrupt.....insert the recovery disk and restart....but I did get the disk.....tried to restart....and nothing happened. Any suggestions?

Thanks!
JanaWhen rebooting do you get the COMPAQ Logo in RED? If not then you have a problem possibly with the main board, since it is not going through POST.

I would disconnect all drives and just leave the motherboard connected to the power supply etc and power it up...( Any change ) If so then a drive problem possibly, if not them definately a main board issue.

step 2 would be to remove any additional PCI slot cards ( but leave the video card -- only if the motherboard doesnt have integrated video) I think the 310 has the integrated video so you should be able to remove all PCI cards. ( Keep track as to their slot location in case we find the culprit here.) Boot the system with just the power supply and motherboard....still same issue?

Ok if you have more than 1 RAM stick installed remove all sticks and insert just 1 stick into DIMM 0 and boot. Same issue, power down and remove stick and try other stick(s) one by one in this way to eliminate a bad stick pulling the board down. If this dosnt do it then you may be looking at a bad motherboard.

If a bad motherboard and you want to troubleshoot further, you can BUY a POST Diagnostic card to plug into the PCI slot and read the Hex code on this card to se where the board is hanging.

If the heatsink was packed with dirt and lint then it is possible that the CPU could have overheated. If you have a spare Socket 478 CPU of the same FSB speed you can try swapping that out to see.

The other issue that EARLY EVO's had was that they got a bad shipment of power capacitors for a period of time that CAUSED these capacitors to swell and leak. Look at the tops of the capacitors...most will have an X on their tops created to vent a capacitor that breaks down internally of gas pressure from cooked electrolyte oil. Capacitors in case you dont know what they are come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and the ones that are the troube makers for many HPs and some Dells are the power Caps that are metal cylendrical parts with X on their aluminum tops. If the tops are not flat and bowed outwards or you see a crusty black, brown, yellow, or white residue on the top of any of them and not the nice flat aluminum clean X surface then you have had a major component failure.

When capacitors break down they can do one of 4 things: ( (1) Explode giving off a fishy smelling stink, (2) Leak out their tops and throw their microfarad values off from where they should be causing a loss of power conditioning between the power supply or voltage regulator and the components and in this case the direct power feeds to the CPU, (3) Leak and short out internally as the aluminum foil that is suspended in the electrolyte oil is gone and gravity and electromagnetism causes the foil plates to connect..(( Usually the capacitor explodes when this happens)), although if the connection is made and not enough gas pressure it will not, (4) Leak out of their bases slowly over time through the rubber stopper at the base of the can ( very rare to leak past the stopper unless the capacitor is physically lifted itself off the board and usually cocked at an angle pointing itself out from the others that are flush to the circuit board.)

Capacitors have been known to burn up power supplies as well and voltage REGULATORS when they fail.

It could be so many things. Hopefully through TROUBLESHOOTING with these steps you might know better as to what you are up against.

Good Luck!

I have a pc with hitachi ic35l060avv207-0 60gb ide HARD drive , which is almost full , even with all photos etc moved off to an external hard drive.
I am intending to fit a 400gb hard drive , is it possible to do a complete copy of existing harddrive on to new one , and then remove OLD drive , and fit new one in its place .
Will this drive do the job SEAGATE HD IDE 400GB UDMA 100 7200RPM 8MB OEM?
and would this software enable me to do the change , Acronis True IMAGE Home 2009 ?
would I need to get any extra cables etc ?
The computer works well ,it has 1GB ram, and is Amd athlon 2.6+ , and has a high spec GAME card (cant remember which one ) Laptop or DESKTOP ? ?
If it's a desktop the procedure is way simple...
Seagate drives now ship with a FREE copy of Acronis disk tools so you're in the bonus round already...
Hook up the Seagate as a slave drive.
Install the Seagate software to a folder on the existing drive (this is for rescue purposes )
Boot to the Seagate CD and select the "clone" option.
There is an option to create a Rescue CD/floppy...i suggest taking the time to do so...

This will now clone the old drive to the new Seagate.
When finished power down.
Completely disconnect the old drive for now...and connect the Seagate as master
Power up and your OS and all your apps and data should be intact.
Run it this way for a week or so until you are satisfied that everything works as it should...
You can then re-introduce the old drive jumpered as a slave drive...format it and use it for additional storage...

Best of Luck.

I just installed a Sempron 2600+ socket a 462 cpu in my computer running a ATX V2DP motherboard and my monitor light is not turning green. I have my monitor hooked up to onboard vga, but I have tried using a PCI graphincs card out of another computer and still nothing working. I have tried jumping the cmos like it says in tha manual. I even also put my old processor back in and its doing the same thing. The computer comes on fan runs, cd drives lights come on but thats it. I also checked to make sure that my motherboard would accept this processor and it does. Any help would be appreciated thanks in advance Doesnt sound good... Did you possibly damage the motherboard though this process by not handling the components in a static-free environment or ground yourself before working on this. A friend of mine blew his motherboard when he was SWAPPING Ram and had a spark leap from his finger to a ram stick.

Also did you apply new thermal compound to the new CPU top before locking the fan/heatsink down to create thermal bond and avoid cooking the processor due to the lack of a thermal bond. Simply placing the heat sink from one CPU to the other is not enough, and can cause to cooked CPU and blown motherboard.

Did you swap the CPU and not move anything else around, or did you completely REMOVE the motherboard from the case and then install it back after?I think I know what happened. I got some thermal paste on the pins on the CPU and did not realize I did until I REMOVED it. I took a toothbrush and got it off of the CPU pins now but it still not working. I GUESS now my problem is that there is thermal paste in the pin holes on the MB. Is there anyway to repair this without buying a new MB?

Hello and thank you for taking interest in this problem.
Ive been having fun building a few computers from old stock, and this one has something different Ive never come across before.
The computer is an Intel Pentium,160 mg Ram, with 2 Gig seagate with Win 98SE Clean install on it.
I loaded Win 98SE with a CD and went to create a start up disk and the A: Drive was not found? ( (It has an A: Drive) and its connected))
I went into the Bios and it shows as a 5 1/2 Floppy. I changed the BOOT order and the recognition ability of the computer to accept the A: Drive as 1.44 and 3. 1/2". So now I have A, B C and D Drives

I looked in My Computer and Its listed as A: in there yet when I put a disk in it I cant get the computer to "see it".
Ive changed the cable and some pins on the A: Drive to see if had been set wrong. Ive put a different A: Drive in it. Ive changed all that back now.
So Ive got a new (different) cable and A: Drive in it, and disabled the B: location in the Bios settings.
It shows as an A: Drive but the computer still says it isnt accessable.

When I go into the properties of the A: Drive it shows as Label (Greyed) blank, 0 Bytes, 3. 1/2 Floppy and Fat, File system.
I can see on the mother board there is only the one position for the cable for the A: Drive.
Does anyone have any solutions I might try?
Thank you ImnoGuru In the process you have ruined he floppy drive.
Pay more attention and do not work on the thing w
ith the power on.Well Geek-9pm Thank you for looking.
I appreciate your reply , your wrong of course in your assumption that I caused it and that the drive has been destroyed.
I dont do anything inside the box with the power on.
I can even imagine there would be people out there that will operate on their computers with the power on. I of course am not one of them.

This problem was from the get go. The A: Drive was always only recognized as a 5. 1/2 floppy and Ive been trying to get it recognized as an A: drive, for a 1.44 disk!
There is a facility to adjust the A and B drive in the bios and I did that.

Now, seeing there is only one CONNECTION that I can see on the Mobo for the A: Drive and there was a cable and an A: Drive connected, one would presume that this was indeed the A: Drive. So if the bios is set to recognize the A as 1.44 and disable the B, one would expect that it should work, or have I got it wrong somewhere?
There must be some sort of solution to this.
This is what I see in the Bios and My Computer. Maybe it will help someone to see what (if anything) I'm doing wrong and offer a solution.
Many thanks ImnoGuru.

[attachment deleted by admin]Is floppy seek at start enabled in the BIOS ? ?
2 things you can try:
A) Right click the A: drive in My Computer and select remove/uninstall....it should be automatically detected on re-boot...
B) Remove the CMOS battery for 5 minutes with the PSU unplugged...this will reset the BIOS back to it's default settings...Please forgive geek9pm for his silly assumptions.

You may not be a Guru, but your not that that computer illiterate

I assume you have the power connected as well as the FDD connector?check the cable mite be in the second connector not the power but the data the one with a twist, not sure if that would change it or not but just to try it.Some MACHINES have a floppy swap setting in the BIOS. Make sure thats not set to swap drives.


Mite be a good thing that I had mentioned that was going to SKIP this probably.Thank you everyone for that, these are the responses that will move this build along, and all good calls.
Patio, BC_Programmer, squall_01 and Spoiler, all solid thoughts.

Patio I went with your suggestions first and tried the simple task of removing the battery in the MOBO, left it and replaced it in a timely manner. Testing the result came to a sad end.
Unfortunately I didnt follow instructions to the letter and left the power cable connected. (More Later that)
So to the next idea of removing the drive altogether, and to my mind probably the best opportunity.
The result was as expected with new hardware found, loading drivers , the testing unfortunately failed by displaying the A: Drive as 5. 1/2 was drive not ready or is in-accessable.
Then to BC_Programmer and squall_01's comments. Simple things can often be so easily overlooked and thank you for your guidance.
The power cable is connected yes, the lights flash and the A. Drive visually rotates when going through the POST sequence. I had a disk in the A: Drive and I can hear it engaging and spinning. Squall-01 the cable is dedicated for an A Drive with the twisty thing in it. No joy so far.

Spoiler, I'm not sure where that might be listed "swap", so I looked through the whole BIOS listings. I couldnt find anything that might resembled a "swap floppy" listing.
So back to following instructions , the battery out the power cord out gave a different result but one that proved most agreeable. SUCCESS!!!
Patio thank you for your perseverance with us of less knowledge, and to all who helped, my gratitude to your selflessness of helping others. Bless you all

Thank you ImnoGuru. good to hear you got it solved! And of course we look forward to assisting you with any other difficulties. I am glad your machine is working.....

About the floppy swap thing I was talking about .....


Swap Floppy Drive

Common Options : Enabled, Disabled

Quick Review

This BIOS feature is used to logically swap the mapping of drives A: and B:. Therefore, it is only useful if you have two floppy drives.

Normally, the sequence by which you connect the floppy drives to the cable determines which is drive A: and which is drive B:. If you attach the floppy drives the wrong way and obtain a drive mapping that is not to your satisfaction, the usual way of correcting this is to physically swap the floppy cable connectors.

This feature allows you to swap the logical arrangement of the floppy drives without the need to open up the case and physically swap the connectors.

When this BIOS feature is enabled, the floppy drive that originally was mapped to drive A: will be remapped to drive B: and vice versa for the drive that was originally set as drive B:.

When this BIOS feature is disabled, the floppy drive mapping will remain as that set by the drive connector arrangement.

Although this appears to be nothing more than a feature of convenience, it can be quite important if you are using two floppy drives of different form factors (3.5" and 5.25") and you need to boot from the second drive. Because the BIOS can only boot from drive A:, you will have to physically swap the drive connections or use BIOS this feature to do it logically.

If your floppy drive mapping is correct or if you only have a single floppy drive, there is no need to enable this feature. Leave it at the default setting of disabled.


Just though you would like to know in case this happens again. I have a feeling that clearing the BIOS like you did reset things back to normal and that included disabling the swap.

none of my PCs newer then 2002 seem to have a swap floppy drive option...glad to hear that it is primarly working.

Hi,

Athlon 1400, 1Mb, XP Pro, Intel MB. AMI Bios. 2x 120GB HDD

On power up it appears to run through POST, showing the Bios copyright and logo and indicating 64Mb test, emitting single beep...............then it most FREQUENTLY immediately repeats, and repeats.

No other screen indication after the bios screen, no memory or drive indications.

HOWEVER, it is not a hard on fault as it will still SOMETIMES run through to XP desktop, whereupon everything works normally, sometimes for MANY hours. Sometimes it will work until a reboot is made, when it won't and repeats, just occasionally it will suddenly reboot while in use (and then repetitively fail).

Yesterday it took possibly thirty rolling reboots before it ran, but then ran for more that three hours before rebooting while in use and then repetitively failing.

Tried what I think (HA HA!) is the obvious.....in stages.......to no effect. It does not seem to be temp related.

Any ideas please???What did you try, so we don't have to repeat same advice.Just to close this one off, I eventually discovered that despite the BIOS being apparently correctly set up for the PROCESSOR, it was sensing it as "wrong processor SPEED", but only sometimes.

I altered it to a fully manual set of parameters and since then it's booted up every time bar once, and has not locked out while running.

The whole setup is very old and perhaps frequencies are not as stable as they once were???You may want to replace the CMOS battery...it sounds like it is not retaining the BIOS parameters.
Part # CR 2032 about the size of a dime...located on the MBoard.

As always when working inside the case remove all power sources and take anti static precautions...Thanks, I had........................Quote from: bravedan on February 26, 2009, 07:12:38 AM

Thanks, I had........................

Hi GUYS . . Tried to boot my pc up lastnight and it gets to the vista loading page then you hear a couple of loud clicks and 2 beeps and it wont get past the loading page . . . Im no expert but im thinking maybe a screwed HD , Any idea? cheers and great site Loud cliks followed by beeps would indicate a flakey/failing PSU as it is cycling back into the BIOS...
BORROW a known good one of the same or greater wattage and swap it in there to see...Quote from: patio on February 21, 2009, 09:21:12 AM

Loud cliks followed by beeps would indicate a flakey/failing PSU as it is cycling back into the BIOS...
Borrow a known good one of the same or greater wattage and swap it in there to see...

a flakey/failing PSU

Quote

a flakey/failing PSU

I have a duplicating machine for duplicating cards, and a cable which came with it. That has a male and female nine-pin plug at each end. The male side fits in to the duplicating machine, but there appears to be no nine-pin plug on my Dell, only a 15-pin port, which I am told is not for that, and another 27-pin port of some sort.

I want to use my new computer rather than the OLD obsolete ONE; is there a conversion cable I can get?What kind of computer do you have?
Most have a nine pin serial port on the back.
Or, you can USB to serial port adapter.
do a GOOGLE for USB to Serial Adapter.
I have a XPS M1710, and that does not seem to have a nine-pin port, it does have a USB port, so I can link that to the cable?That may be the best OPTION.

Quote from: BC_Programmer on February 21, 2009, 10:37:21 PM

Quote from: chevronman on February 21, 2009, 09:27:26 PM

I don't see that you have done anything with the harddrive. They do fail and that would cause NOTHING to happen when you turn on your computer. I had one fail in the past, mine would still boot up but it would take about 30 minutes to do so. Yours could have failed completely.

Disregard this. a PC with a failing HD will still get to the post screen and show an image.

Disregard this. a PC with a failing HD will still get to the post screen and show an image.

Quote

Disregard this. a PC with a failing HD will still get to the post screen and show an image.

Not so!

Quote

Disregard this. a PC with a failing HD will still get to the post screen and show an image.

Not so!

But did he say that the monitor was tested on another PC?

Hello everybody I am new to this forum and I have a quick question. Last night I shut off my computer because I wasnt using it anymore. I TURNED it back on TODAY and after a few seconds it let out 1 loud, long beep and my MONITOR wouldnt turn on. So I just restarted thinking that would solve it but it still happened. It was working fine the night I shut it off. I know its not the monitor because its connected properly and I just recently purchased it so its brand new. This has never happened to me before and Ive had this comp for about 2 yrs.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.Reseat you video card and RAM.Huh?? English please hahaOkay. Unplug your computer.

Now open the case.

You want to take care to GROUND yourself while you are working inside of the computer. Make contact with the metal frame and keep one arm on the metal of the case the whole time you are working. This will prevent any static electricity from damaging any of your components.

The place where the monitor plugs into your computer is your video card. It will be held in place by a PHILLIPS head screw. It might look like this:



Do you see it?
Remove the screw and pull the video card out of the computer.
Now place the card back into your computer snug the screw back down. You don't have to use a lot of torque to tighten that screw. Just get it snug.

Congratulations! You just reseated your video card

If this doesn't work then we will move on to reseating the RAM.So I reseated the video card and the problem is still occuring.
Thanx for the help btw.Before we move any farther, do you have another monitor you could try - just to rule that out as the culprit?

Do you still get the beep?No there I dont have another monitor. But when I unplugged the monitor from the video card a message came up on the screen that said please check connection but when I plugged it back in it went away.
And yes the beep is still happening. I already reseated the RAM I searched how to do it on these forums.

Thanx again

when i press the power button on my computer to turn it on everything runs fine untill i get to the xp loading screen...the one with the windows flag...and it gets stuck there...i left it there loading over night...and nothing....i am able to boot it up in safe mode but not in normal mode...i dont want t clear my hdd because it has my life on it...Music, Videos, Pictures, Guitar music, things that i have wrote...i cant lose that stuff...what can i do to fix my computer so it can start in normal mode again...

also it wont let me do a system restore...it goes through the process of it but when it reboots it gets stuck at the windows flag loading screene...

my computer is a HP Pavillion 513n running windows xp SP3. How long have you been running SP3 on that HP.... There are some issues with HP and COMPAQ Computers operating with SP3, or I should say... failing to operate soon after the SP3 update

If you want your data and want your system back up and running asap, I'd buy an external HD enclosure, and an extra HD. Install the new HD in your sytsem in place of the old HD. Install clean build to new HD. And place old HD into ext hard drive case, and acces all your data via USB as an external drive. SIMPLEST way to have your data back without taking the chance of losing it all especially since a repair feature will not work.

The OS sounds hosedi have been running SP3 for about 3 weeks...and tis is thefirst time i have encountered a problem with it...how much does an extra hdd cost...i dontwant to spend way to much on it...i am geting a new laptop NEXT week but i need my music to work on my computer for the weekend... is there any way i can fix my computer...Do you receive any error messages?

Try disconnecting all peripherals attached to the computer - re-boot.

Can you boot to Safe Mode?no i never recieved any error messages... i can boot it in safe mode...i dont know what pererferals are tho is that like mouse and keyboard because that DIDNT do anything when i un plugged them...Quote from: Sean0514 on July 31, 2008, 12:20:15 PM

no i never recieved any error messages... i can boot it in safe mode...i dont know what pererferals are tho is that like mouse and keyboard because that didnt do anything when i un plugged them...

i dont want t clear my hdd because it has my life on it...Music, Videos, Pictures, Guitar music, things that i have wrote...i cant lose that stuff...

I've got pretty much the same problem, with a few differences:

1. It gets to the XP flag, but instead of hanging there, it restarts again. It then repeats this in an endless loop.

2. Each time it restarts it gives me the option of starting in Safe mode etc, but the keyboard won't allow me to toggle. So it starts up in Normal mode in the endless loop. (ie I am unable to use Safe mode.)

Any ideas? I'm happy to shift this to a brand new thread if I need to. It just sounded very similar to Sean's original problem.

I don't know whether I have SP3 - unless it automatically installed in the background!

Any ideas would be very, very appreciated. TIA.

Hi all,

In an old Dimension 2350 with Win 2000, the machine wouldn't start. It seemed to hang at the Dell Screen. With a little more prodding I managed to get the machine to go to WINDOWS Recovery Console, but unfortunately, it was the end of the day - so I shut it down with plans to do some data retrieval in the morning. No luck. In the morning, I kept getting a 'Primary hard DRIVE not detected' or some error of that nature. I went back to the Recovery Console, but this time got a message that Windows couldn't recognize the hard drive.
So, I grabbed another perfectly working Dimension 2350 and tried to set the bad drive up as a slave. As far as I can see, the jumper settings are correct, the cables are secured. If i remove the slave drive (remember, this is the drive that the first pc was not recognizing), from the BIOS settings, the machine boots fine with only the master. When I set the BIOS to AUTO detect a secondary drive, the machine does not recognize either drive. That's right, I get a message that says it could not detect Primary 0 or Primary 1. I go into the BIOS and find 'Unknown' in both slots.
What about the bad drive, when BIOS is enabled to detect it, would be causing the DETECTION of both drives to fail?
What could I be doing wrong? The good drive in the good Dimension is a Maxtor. The bad drive coming out of the other Dimension is a Western Digital.
If you can visualize this, I have the jumper set on the Maxtor to the last vertical set of pins closest to the IDE cable (it only has 9 pins, so there is actually 1 more column of pins, but only 1 pin in that column. On the Western Digital (that would be the slave) I have the jumper set in the third column, vertically. (there are five columns of pins).

Carrieremove the jumper and see what happensActually, I was wrong about the jumper location in the WD, but I have double-checked the documentation and it was and has been in the correct location for a slave drive.
A friend says that I should check to see if the drive is getting POWER, and that if the slave drive is that badly damaged, to where it can't get power from the power cable, then the 'circuit' wouldn't be complete, and drive detection of both drives would then fail. Does that make sense to anybody? Can anybody comment on that?

I will remove the jumper of the slave to see what happens. I have tried just about everything else.

CarrieQuote from: carriehoff on July 31, 2008, 03:29:26 PM

A friend says that I should check to see if the drive is getting power, and that if the slave drive is that badly damaged, to where it can't get power from the power cable, then the 'circuit' wouldn't be complete, and drive detection of both drives would then fail. Does that make sense to anybody? Can anybody comment on that?

I can't hear any spinning or clicking when I power up the machine. Is it safe to assume that this drive is toast?

Sometimes the mouse just stops and only starts working again when I restart and sometimes it doesn't. Does anyone know exactly what COULD cause this??

It is a Genius NetScroll 110 PS2 OPTICAL Mouse i've had it for a few years please can someone help me I would suggest you check to be sure it is PLUGGED all the way in and than try another mouse to see if your mouse is broken.

Mouse freeze certainly used to be indicative of general problems - certainly back in Win 3.1 days. More recently I have found it rare to occur but if it does then I have found the whole system has locked up - probably not due to a mouse-specific fault either.

Is it PS2 or USB? Using an adaptor or not? Certainly check connections - also look for any fracture in the cable going into the mouse. A new mouse is well WORTH trying if this one is old as you say - and also check to see if there is a newer driver available. I change mouse every year due to HARD useage.

well i was genna get the 4870 untill i saw that the 260 was the exact same price!!!!! i thought it was it was more in the 300 some! so i compared these benchmarks http://www.guru3d.com/article/radeon-hd-4870-review--asus/9 at every resolution i put 1 TALLY for each TIME the 260 or 4870 best the other and i GOT the 260 20 and the 4870 19 they are almost EQUAL! what should i do!! help!!!!!

EDIT:
the gx2 is almost the same too! what should i do!!!!!To me, the card requiring LEAST PSU wattage is what I'd look into, given that all else is pretty much equal. Less heat better for system overall!

ok i have been looking on Google for a 24Bit Color Download for ATI Rage XL GRAPHICS card but no luck. COULD some one could give me a link for a 24Bit color for ATI rage xl PLEASE? or does ATI Rage XL dont support 24Bit color?

HELP would be appreciated
,Nick

I just purchased a NEW toshiba satellite laptop and I'm having a problem with the HEADPHONE jack. When i plug into the headphone jack the sound isn't routed from the speakers so the sound stays in the speakers and the headphones get nothing. All the forums i've seen about this have been for linux but i'm running vista, any help on how to correct this?Can you TRY other headphones?

If this is a new laptop, it's possible the headphone jack is BROKEN.

Hello,

I just bought a computer about 9 months ago from Dell. I haven't changed any fans, hard DRIVES, ram, etc. everything is what is was when I received the computer. Earlier yesterday the breaker to my bedroom tripped which obviously caused the computer to shut off. I did not try turning on the computer until about 2 hours later. This is what happened: The computer STARTED up and there was a clicking noise in the TOWER. The computer didn't come up with any errors or failures it just kept trying to boot up. I opened the tower and thought MAYBE the clicking noise was from the hard drive. I disconnected the hard drive and the clicking stopped. So I think it is safe to say that the clicking is from the hard drive...but now what do I do? Do I buy a new hard drive (this one isn't even a year old yet)? Do I try reinstalling windows? What should I do?

Thank you.Hard drive is DYING, or dead already.
Call Dell. It should be still under warranty.
It happens. My Vista HD died when it was 6 weeks old.

Hey guys, I have dual core intel processor (3ghz), intel 946GZIS motherboard, and 1Gb RAM.. The problem
with my comp is that when ever i "restart" my WINDOWS, it just wont boot.. I get a blank screen, but the leds are
WORKING... Then i have to switch off the comp and wait for about an hour and switch it on again...
I have tried changing the ram, tested my monitor on another computer, and found that its not the problem...
Can anyone please give me SUGGESTIONS?
This problem occurs when i sometimes shutdown, or hibernate... But is mostly seen when i restart..
I have tried re-installing windows, but it didnt help...When it doesn't want to restart, can you hear RAM beep, hard drive, fans spinning?
What Windows version?The motherboard makes the USUAL noises, the fans are all running.
I am using Windows XP, but i think its a hardware problem...Motherboards don't make any noise.
Can you hear RAM beep, and hard drive spinning?Well i do hear the usual noise... I dont know if its from the ram
or from something else.. The hard disk spinning, i am not sure... how do
i check that? My hard disk is a really silent one...Can you hear RAM beep?Well I am not sure if the beeps coming from the RAM.. I didnt know that
the RAM beeps... When you start/restart computer, the very first thing, you should hear is a single short beep. That means, your RAM is OK.
Can you restart, and see, if you can hear it?Yes i do hear the beep when i start my computer... But i dont hear it when i restart my comp...Aha. You may have some RAM problem then.
Turn computer off. OPEN the case. Ground yourself. Re-seat RAM.
Don't close the case.
Try to start, and restart.
If same problem, and you have more, than one RAM stick, repeat the procedure, but with one RAM stick at a time.
Same problem?
Run memtest: http://www.techspot.com/vb/topic62524.html
Well i had only 1 ram stick... I had removed it cleaned it placed it back...
No good... Tried it with another working ram from my friends computer..
Still no good...Quote

Tried it with another working ram from my friends computer

I have a Dell Dimension 2400 and a motherboard chipset intel brookdale-G i845GEV and I would like to know what is the fastest cpu and RAM I could put int it?i have the same computer
cpu> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116027
for your ram you can have a maximum of 2gb but i would just leave your 512 in there and add a gb try something like this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145086Quote from: computeruler on July 21, 2008, 07:15:18 PM

i have the same computer
cpu> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116027
for your ram you can have a maximum of 2gb but i would just leave your 512 in there and add a gb try something like this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145086

i have the same computer
cpu> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116027
for your ram you can have a maximum of 2gb but i would just leave your 512 in there and add a gb try something like this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145086

Quote from: computeruler on July 21, 2008, 07:15:18 PM

i have the same computer
cpu> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116027
for your ram you can have a maximum of 2gb but i would just leave your 512 in there and add a gb try something like this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145086

Nice going !!!!!!!

I ordered the cpu and put it in and it didn't work. Why because the fsb is 533mhz and not 800mhz!

To anyone that knows. Will this be compatible with the motherboard? http://www.starmicro.net/detail.aspx?ID=121

thats weird crucial memory upgrade scan thing says i can have 2gb on this dell