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Okay so im looking to over clock my CPU and GPU. This is my first time doing this and I looked up guides but i couldnt seem to find any that really helped or were able to help me understand. I dont have the best CPU or GPU and this isnt a custom built PC but I was looking to get the most out of it for gaming before it dies as i have been looking around for custom built gaming pcs. Does ANYONE have any suggestions, like will it IMPROVE the speed AT ALL. Will overcloking it even do anything ? Even if it does help just a bit i would rather go ahead and over click it.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]You will not benefit from clocking this old system. Like I said in chat a graphics upgrade is the only road for improving this computers gaming ability.I personally wouldn't - I have no problem with overclocking (and run an overclocked system myself) however you really need to use hardware that is designed to handle it. Prebuilt machines like your Dell really aren't built to handle overclocking, I would be surprised if your motherboard's BIOS even had the appropriate settings to CONFIGURE an overclock.
The CPU you have should be fine for most games... I would just focus on replacing that Geforce 310 with something better, possibly a GTX card such as a 260 or better. I have a GTX 780 Ti 3GB and I love it. I bought it used off my younger brother for $100. Your bottleneck is likely just this video card.

Quote from: BC_Programmer on MARCH 30, 2017, 10:36:24 PM

There should be integrated video available on the motherboard, you should be able to remove the card and use that. If it works, it is definitely the card.

Alright, I tried to get into my Sketchbook Pro and both my monitor and my Cintiq went down. The monitor is light blue, whereas my Cintiq is ultramarine. They went down at the exact same time.

The issue is not the monitor.

I used a Cintiq to find out that it's not the monitor.

How? How can a Cintiq verify a monitor? It is not a video source device.

Also (to OP) regarding a graphics card recommendation- is there anything you need that wouldn't be supplied via the integrated graphics?

All the references I can find show the ASRock H97M Pro4 Motherboard as having an HDMI port. It is next to the DVI Display Port, opposite the PS/2 keyboard connector:

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51CdNcyZ6QL._SL1000_.jpg

Not that LONG ago I found out that you could connect a laptop with a desktop video CARD troug a pci-e video card dock. I was really interested in doing it because I don't have enough money for a full desktop. But I found out that some companies whitelist there laptops so you can't instal ANYTHING new in the pci-e SLOT. My question is can I instal a EXTERNAL gpu on my acer aspire e1-571 or is it whitelisted. Some sites say that acer doesn't whitelist there laptops but some say they do so I don't know for sure.

Thanks in advance It would require your laptop to become stationary, and it's about as expensive as buying a gaming desktop. Your CPU will bottleneck most gpus

Hi. A friend says he and his family were listening to something that was being streamed. And then suddenly the streaming stopped. But, more than that, the screen looks broken. Acting on that information it seemed to me, that we might have a case of a broken screen prank. But, the thing is when the screen is slightly flexed some fine lines on the right side of the screen come and go. And when the screen laptop is off, you can manage to see an irregular line that shows up on the screen as a fairly wide dark band that seems to separate one part of the screen from another. The mouse pointer is visible only for some part of the screen on the right. Now, despite the story I have been told, which appears to rule out a broken screen, in favor of a broken screen prank, my senses tell me the screen must actually be broken. I suppose my conclusion is correct? Thanks.Just curious...how EXACTLY does a broken screen prank work ? ?...Because my friend said that the screen changed to what it now is, which looks like a damaged screen (that is, it looks at first glance like it has a physical crack and you cannot actually see the desktop, just a blue band on the right side, where the pointer can still be seen) without anyone touching the screen (as it was streaming a video actually) - it seemed to me that it was perhaps all down to a broken screen prank. I've no idea how a broken screen prank works, except that obviously the desktop is not shown, but a jpeg (say) image is shown as the background. There is no toolbar now by the way.

But, ANYWAY, obviously the front of the screen is not cracked, the glass or plastic, but it looks like there is damage to the display technology behind the screen. Because I can see that irregular mark, like a shadow, from top to BOTTOM of the screen, when the laptop is off. Like I say, logic tells me, the screen is broken, I mean the display technology. What does happen if you bend a modern screen these days and damage it? I'm supposing the front of the screen remains intact, but you can break the display technology behind it. It's the only explanation I have. Which rather casts doubt on my friends explanation that the screen just went broken. He did say there was a band showing at the top right of the screen, I presume something like a downloading strip you often see when the PC is loading/downloading. I said to my friend, leave it to me, and I'll ask the PC community, they will know if your screen is broken. Thus my post. RichThe display technology must be broken. So, it's going to cost my buddy about £40 for a new screen for HP Pavilion 15-n224sa.

One other option is to use an external monitor. I have one, but it's a VGA type. The notebook has in fact an HDMI socket. Can I use this HDMI socket to connect a VGA monitor to? Employing a cable adapter in between? Thanks.What are you talking about?People are a bit slow: What is screen technology? Is it the front protective layer that you wipe with a cloth when it's gets dirty? No! Not really. It's the technology that's actually producing the picture. It looks like that screen technology (TFT whatever it is) is damaged. I'm trying to figure if I can send a picture of the screen. Paints a thousand words.Aaagh, when I flex the screen a bit I begin to see a desktop, not very clear, but it's there. So, the screen is broken as I THOUGHT. I've never had experience of a broken screen before. And remember, my friend did say it just went like it is, when no-one was handling the notebook. That confused me.Quote

People are a bit slow

it rather tempts a reaction when someone says "What are you talking about". It's not nice. It feels like a put down. Which is not hard to figure.

my senses tell me the screen must actually be broken. I suppose my conclusion is correct? Thanks.

Action and reaction. When someone make a post, which is entirely sensible, it rather tempts a reaction when someone says "What are you talking about". It's not nice. It feels like a put down. Which is not hard to figure.

Should I scrap & start new or update?

Hello!

Last year, I purchased a built computer (big mistake) and it consistently has blue screen of death issues (generic - Check Exception, or something). I took it in to a local shop, and he thought I didn't have a strong enough power supply since ram/hard drive/ etc. tested okay. After upgrading that - same problem.

After looking at what I currently have (listed below), I'm trying to decide to upgrade the processor & motherboard (and Video card, possibly or eventually) or should I scrap the whole thing and start new? Was thinking upgrading to a 6th gen (since I don't need top of the line) i7 and motherboard and move from there? (BTW, the machine came with a Windows 7. I installed my Windows 8 license on disc and free upgraded to 10 on this machine...)

THANK YOU!!!!

My current system has in a large-form gaming case (big enough to modify internals, I think):

Processor: Intel i7 - 920 Quad Core 2.67
Motherboard: HP Pavilion Elite 517194-001 ATX (both of these were much older than I expected)
Memory - 8GB DDR3
Video Card: EVGA Nvidia Geforce GTZ275 896 MB
Hard Disk: 500 GB SATA
DVD-ROM/CD-RW
I also added a Wireless card
Upgraded to a 650 Watt power supplyI doubt it was the power supplu - you STILL have the problem!

First of all, I can understand your concern. I hacve worked with eleftronic devices for several years and it is never easy to diagnoste a problem unless there is a smoking gun. That is, some real specific prooof taht a componet or modual has vailes. Here are some rare thigns often overlooked:
A. Bad CD/DVD drive taht draws too much current.
(Tech has to use an amp probve to verify thjis.)
B. Hard drive with faiing motopr taht does not maintain speed
(Hard to verify.)
C. Memory stick that is sensitive to some paterns.
(Requires extensive testing.)
D. CPU that has an esoteric internal EROR.
(CCAN not be vrified direcdtly with shope tools. A tech can try another CPU of the same part number. Belive me, there are a few bad CPUs out there. )

Item C above can be , to some exctent, verified with time and testing. You have to try just one stick in the machine, if posible, and run one of the tough multi-pass memory tests.
Here is one form Microsft. Once RUNNING, it does not depend of the OS. It tests the memory will paterens tht may revel some kind of internal flaw in the memory chips. You can do this test without anoth specail equipment.
https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/2008.09.utilityspotlight.aspx
Quote

One of the PCs you support is acting up—freezing, crashing, blue screening. Is some piece of hardware FAILING? Is some newly installed application causing trouble? Or could it be faulty memory? One way to find out for sure is with the free Microsoft® Windows® Memory Diagnostic utility. This tool will run a variety of tests on your PC's RAM to determine whether flaws exist in any of the modules.

Should I scrap & start new or update?

Hello!

Last year, I purchased a built computer (big mistake) and it consistently has blue screen of death issues (generic - Check Exception, or something). I took it in to a local shop, and he thought I didn't have a strong enough power supply since ram/hard drive/ etc. tested okay. After upgrading that - same problem.

After looking at what I currently have (listed below), I'm trying to decide to upgrade the processor & motherboard (and Video card, possibly or eventually) or should I scrap the whole thing and start new? Was thinking upgrading to a 6th gen (since I don't need top of the line) i7 and motherboard and move from there? (BTW, the machine came with a Windows 7. I installed my Windows 8 license on disc and free upgraded to 10 on this machine...)

THANK YOU!!!!

My current system has in a large-form gaming case (big enough to modify internals, I think):

Processor: Intel i7 - 920 Quad Core 2.67
Motherboard: HP Pavilion Elite 517194-001 ATX (both of these were much older than I expected)
Memory - 8GB DDR3
Video Card: EVGA Nvidia Geforce GTZ275 896 MB
Hard Disk: 500 GB SATA
DVD-ROM/CD-RW
I also added a Wireless card
Upgraded to a 650 Watt power supply

I upgraded a computer to windows 10 but now I have no SOUND . Say's drivers are up to date. It say's it needs speakers but a speaker is built into the tower and has ALWAYS worked before .I checked bios it say's it is enabled. Shows no playback devices. Thx for any help

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]What exactly says drivers are up to date ? ?
You need Win10 drivers...preferably from the manuf...PLUG in some speakers anyway or headphones and TEST.

Hi I am hoping someone could help me assess a list of components I have chosen to build for my first custom pc.
My main worry is that they won't all work together. Any advice would be much appreciated.

The components:

Processor
AMD FX6300 3.5HZ AM3+ 6 CORE 14MB CACHE


Motherboard
MSI 970A G43 HD AUDIO ATX
4DDR3 SLOTS
SUPPORTS DR3 1066/ 1333/ 1600/ 1866 / 2133(OC) MHz


Ram
HYPER FURY 4GB 1866MHz DDR3 CL10 DIMM MEMORY (RAM)


HARD DRIVE
WESTERN DIGITAL CAVIAR BLUE
250GB
16MB CACHEWD2500AAKS

Graphics card
ASUS GEFORCE GT710 2GB DDR3 VGA DVI-D HDMI PCI-E GRAPHICS CARD


Case
CIT DEFENDER BLACK INTERIOR 500W 12cm BLACK PSU 12cm BLUE LED FAN


Thanks in advance
I suppose it really comes down to what you are needing it for and what your budget is. For gaming the GeForce 710 video card you have is extremely LOW end and won't really be usable for anything but the most basic of games.

I also wouldn't use the power supply included with a case (especially a CiT one) as they are absolute rubbish and RUN the risk of damaging other components. You should always buy a PSU from a reputable brand such as Corsair, XFX, Seasonic, EVGA.etc

If the parts you have listed are at the upper limit of your budget, you would probably be better of waiting and SAVING up for something better.

3.5 inch 1.44 MB floppy disks which work OK with Windows PCs are suddenly Not accessed by MS DOS PCs where they were accessed like a breeze for the past
50 years.
I have tried cleaning the FDDs with IPO on ear buds but am hesitant to open the drives to clean the HEADS for fear of disturbing the heads alignments.
FDDrive head Cleaning kits are not available anywhere in India - US firms which have them say that they do not ship to India!!
I have changed the FDD Data cable - No use!
I have run fprot antivirus - No use
Can this be due to some other cause?
Can somebody in the forum or admin help me, pls?
E-mail: [emailprotected]Have you tried accessing these disks on the same exact SYSTEM that runs both Windows and DOS to keep with the same drive. A known drive that works with Windows on the same system, and then boot to DOS on that same system and see if the disk can then be accessed.

The DOS systems unable to access the disks could be a number of reasons.

Also which version of DOS are these DOS systems running, and is any compression tools being used to try to cram more data onto the 1.44MB disks that DOS might not be able to read?

As well as what (File System) are these disks USING, they should be in FAT file system?

Is there any use of long file names that might not be supported by DOS, but Windows can read ? ... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/8.3_filenameI'd suspect the drive itself before assumng it's a DOS issue...
Try another drive.
Please clarify.
Is this ture?
You have a dual boot sytems. Windows and MS-DOS
The drive is visible in Windows.
The drive is not visible in MS-DOS.
Same machineme, same Floppy dirve.
IF so-
That would suggesnt the MS-DOS does not have the right drivers.1 quick question...why have you not thru all these years copied all of those to a media such as CD;s and or thunb drive ? ?

Just curious...I was going to ask same question but thought that maybe they were sticking with floppies because it was the simplest compatibility between Windows and DOS. DOS version unknown to us as well so it might not even have MSCDEX. USB Drive SUPPORT with DOS version unknown as well is sketchy. So I DIDNT ask just assuming it was floppy based on the simplest form of data compatibility for a "sneaker network" (transfer walking the data from Windows to DOS systems and back).

In manufacturing I have seen this implemented where older machinery on old computers running DOS is still booting off and running off floppies etc, and Windows systems can be used to edit parameters for machine instructions with ease etc.For less than $20 he could buy a new 2.5 floppy and use it a tool to isolate issues with other drives.

from ebay...
What is your time worth? I suggested that above...

this sucks

Sorry I got it back again :/ back to square ONE.
I have an Intel 750 Series SSD, Model SSDPEDMW400G4

I THINK its the motherboard which is SUPERMICRO X10DAi

Yes it does have a Hard drive. Everything has worked before.Quote from: TheTwister on April 07, 2017, 01:52:11 AM

Sorry I got it back again :/ back to square one.
...
Yes it does have a Hard drive. Everything has worked before.

Just called Intel up, there was an error with the SSD firmware, seems to be fine now

I have recently joined this forum so hello for starters.
after a serious bowel surgery I thought I would resurrect a pc that I built some years ago as I cannot manage anything to physical anymore. I know it had a faulty mobo and vista OS.
I had a good case with 2 250 gb hdd and 2 asus DRW drives all of which have sata connections as does the novatech 47300 4 mob iwas advised by novatech that windows 10 would be good for a clean INSTALL said to be easy , just the job for me, after many goes at clearing drves and reinstalling I finally got it running properly, ish but my problem is that it does not recognise toe second hhd or the second drw drive, so I must have missed something out when doing the OS install, I bought mswindows 10 but someone said I could have got it free, but you always get one don't you, if anyone out there can see an obvious mistake or two I would love to hear about it, many thanks topcat.Any 'free' Windows 10 depends on what you already hve. At one time you could get a Windows 10 update if yu had Windows 7. But that ship has sailed.

Now if you are a person that requires technology that makes it easy for yu to use the computer, and you have Windows 7, the upgrade is still free. You will need to talk to MS support to see how yu might qualify.

Anyway, buying a copy of Windows 10 is a good idea. It mens you can install it again and might not have to call the MS support line to activate it. I am not very sure of how that works. But the idea is that MS wants yuo tohave one license for one computer. If you have two computers, two licenses.

About the SATA drives.
Are they all present in teh BIOS setup?
Also, some makers will ship motherbords taht do not have all the connecttors on the motherboard, even tho the BIOS sahys the chip set has SAA interfaces.
Also, Windowsd might not show drives it does not understand. You have to bring up the drive manager in the administrator tools to see if a drive has not been mounted. If it does not have a drive letter, it apparently was no mounted in the usual way.

This video might help:
https://www.isunshare.com/windows-10/7-ways-to-open-disk-management-in-windows-10.html
Look for this:

Does that help any? many thanks for the reply
geek-9pm(hope this is right) no the bios doesn't show all the drives only 1 hard drive and 1 disc driveQuote from: topcat on July 07, 2017, 04:25:37 PM

many thanks for the reply
geek-9pm(hope this is right) no the bios doesn't show all the drives only 1 hard drive and 1 disc drive

Hard drives with a Serial ATA (SATA) CONNECTOR were introduced to replace IDE and Enhanced IDE (Parallel ATA) drives. SATA removes the master-slave relationship between hard drives (parallel), as each drive connects directly to a SATA host adapter or port (serial). DATA transfer speeds range from 150MB/sec (SATA) and up to 300 MB/sec (SATA II). The SATA interface CABLE can be up to 1m long, which is an advantage in a large computer case.
Ready to upgrade your hard drive? Before you install a SATA hard drive, however, there are several things to consider. I have summarized the most important points in this article.

i have question if it suport the GeForce GTX OC 1050 2gb with hp core duo 3.0 small factor ?I'm afraid we're gonna need alot more info...Additionally to Patios question... For STARTERS... Small Form Factor usually means its a light-weight power SUPPLY AROUND 250-300 watts and not enough to carry the weight of a high end video card and would be missing the 12V molex connections for powering video card. Also a Core 2 Duo or Core Duo CPU is going to be a bottleneck to the full POTENTIAL of a GTX 1050. Lastly the GTX1050 might not fit inside the SFF computer.

What do you have for a budget and what games do you plan on playing with it and with what screen resolution and frame rate?i think it fits the graphic is 191 Height and 128
the width like my old graphic just i have to let the pc open i just want to know if it works with the power
i play cs go alot and wowp i just found it lower price until i get my new pc

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]

We just had a power outage and my wireless HP keyboard or mouse will not work. I PICKED up a Logitech MK320 a little BIT ago but nothing happens when I plug the UBS in.

I did not get the usual notice that something new was detected.

The UBS does not have a light when I plug it in so I don't KNOW if it is working (tried different ports).

I STARE at my desktop and it stares back, what to do, what to do.

Using old backup PC for times like this but it does not have all my FILES etc.

Is it the keyboard, the PC or a Windows 10 issue?

Would a wired keyboard make any difference?

Appreciate any advice.

ThanksYes, a wired Keyboard shuld work.
Thae damage, most likely, ws to the computer,not the keybaord.

Me and my friend were WONDERING if you can use GDDR2 or GDDR3 video cards with standard DDR MEMORY? As far as I know it doesnt matter, but we wanted to MAKE sure before buying anything.Video cards and memory aren't related. The only question is whether the card will fit in your SLOT, and whether the motherboard supports it. Good catch Dilbert.
Another THING to consider is the power supply, video cards usually need a lot of power.
And GDDR3 memory will be faster than GDDR2, GDDR4 will be faster still.can gddr3 to fit in ddr machine

Regards, I need to consult on an Ideacentre K410 desktop model: MTM-11681CU. This model has the factory preinstalled Windows 7 Home and brings the i3-2120 Dual Core 3.3Ghz processor which I understand is Sandy Bridge microarchitecture.
The query is about updating the maximum CPU that my machine can support and is compatible. According to the hardware manual of my PC says that this model can carry two types of processors: the one I have is i3-2120 and the i5-2320 which is Quad core but is 3.0 Ghz. In the same manual later is the same machine, the K410 but that brings pre-installed windows 8. This brings different processors than the one I have, but I am interested if the i7-3770 that brings as an option this last machine would work to which I have. Looking for information and found that the one I have is Sandy Bridge as I mentioned earlier and the CPU i7-3770 is Ivy Bridge. Check the manufacturer and there is no BIOS update. My question is this i7-3770 processor would work on my pc that comes from the factory the i3-2120 that is Sandy? I would like to upgrade the CPU from my pc to the Max that I can support, but I will have to settle for the i5-2320 ...

Thanks for your help.No BIOS update and manual that suggests i5 then i7. It would be a expensive mistake to GET an i7 and not be able to use it. One suggestion i have is if you know of anyone who has a i7 equal to or lesser than the 3770 to pop into your system and see if it will boot on it or complain or not boot at all. Some issues you can run into if it does run on a i7 is heat as well as the voltage regulators might not be to spec to handle the power needs of the i7 which can cook your main board.

I have a different build that warns that it only supports a 65 watt TDP CPU, yet I was able to get it to run on a 95 watt TDP CPU when testing. I went back to a 65 watt TDP CPU to not cook it as for I have one of those IR heat guns to measure temperature and the VRMs started to run hot so I TOOK the 65 watt maximum as an actual maximum and backed off pushing the light weight motherboard too hard. The BIOS in this case SUPPORTED the better CPU, but the motherboard was manufactured specifically to only handle up to 65 watt CPU's.

The safest BET would be to go with the i5 that is listed.

One other surprise to worry about is the system recovery media for that system might break with a different CPU detected in it. Some system recovery software if there is a hardware change such as non-original build CPU installed, you might find that when you go to reinstall the OS from the recovery media that it complains that it cant install to the system. So you will want to retain the original CPU in case you find yourself reinstalling it to perform a clean build and then removing it and placing the better CPU in it after OS reinstalled clean which generally it then just requires a reboot after new hardware detected message which is the different better CPU detected and it wants to reboot with the settings for the better CPU.

I'm currently running my NAS on a system with a http://ark.intel.com/nl/products/63246/Intel-Desktop-Board-DZ77SL-50K DS77SL-50K motherboard, my case and psu still have plenty of space and power left but the 5 sata ports are already used.
I've seen that there are Raid controllers that I can plug into pcie ports but I just need more ports, the raid is done in software with linux.

Does anyone know what brand or model I should get from amazon.de or another BE shop?

Thanks for any helpWhat you are looking for is a Host Bus Adapter - A card that will PROVIDE you with additional SATA ports but without adding additional RAID functionality. You can get pretty cheap ones for around €30 which use low end chipsets from the likes of Marvell. They would probably do the job but tend to not be great in terms of performance/reliability - They will work but I personally wouldn't trust them in anything mission critical.

Personally, for a server I'd be looking for a proper server grade HBA from a recognised company like LSI, Adaptec or HighPoint. However, be warned that these cards aren't cheap, you may want to look to see what you can find used on places like eBay.Quote from: camerongray on APRIL 11, 2017, 05:40:30 AM

What you are looking for is a Host Bus Adapter - A card that will provide you with additional SATA ports but without adding additional RAID functionality. You can get pretty cheap ones for around €30 which use low end chipsets from the likes of Marvell. They would probably do the job but tend to not be great in terms of performance/reliability - They will work but I personally wouldn't trust them in anything mission critical.

Personally, for a server I'd be looking for a proper server grade HBA from a recognised company like LSI, Adaptec or HighPoint. However, be warned that these cards aren't cheap, you may want to look to see what you can find used on places like eBay.

You definitely want a card that's PCI-E. That Delock one would work but it's still very much a basic SATA controller so I can't vouch for the reliability. LSI definitely do some decent looking PCI-E HBAs for not too much money on the used market. Many cards will offer some type of RAID functionaliy but look at the specs, as long as it has a "JBOD" or "HBA" mode, you can use it to pass the drives directly through to your OS.

If your card only supports RAID, you can technically just create a bunch of RAID 0 arrays where each array contains a single disk to pass each drive through to the OS and then RAID them in software. This would work although it's not ideal as the abstraction created by the RAID controller can make things like monitoring drive health a bit more difficult than it would be with a proper HBA.

You'll probably find that decent, high end cards will use a miniSAS connector rather than individual SATA connectors as shown below. This is fine, you can fairly easily find an appropriate cable to break this out into individual SATA connectors.

Hi all,

I am planning to add another GTX 1070 to my computer but I was wondering if the POWER supply I already have can handle two cards.

Asus Sabertooth 990fx r2
Amd FX-8350 black ed
Corsair H55 v2 Quiet CPU cooler
Asus Geforce GTX 1070 Strix OC 8GB
Kingston hyper fury 16G 1866Hz
Corsair CX600M
SAMSUNG 840 EVO 120 GB SSD
Seagate SSHD 5400RPM 500 GB
Dell Ultrasharp U2412M 1920x1200

Hi,

Just stumbled upon your post, I faced a similar problem when building my system last year, thought I might be able to offer some help.

I used a power consumption calculator to get a rough estimate of your system's power demand (search on Google for tools like that), and found you need around 530W if you are going for a SLI setup of 1070s. Of course this number varies a bit, and I wouldn't take it as an exact REFERENCE, but given your power supply (CX600M), RUNNING a system above 500W seems to be a bit tight. Note that there is nothing wrong with using a 600W PSU on a say 550W system, although it's less efficient. This also depends on how much time you are using your system on load.

From my past experience, I was aiming for a dual 970 setup for a future upgrade, with an estimate of about 550W power draw. I ended up getting a 750W power supply, just to be safe.

I think a 600W power supply would work. If your system is new (which it seems to be) and you don't want to spend extra budget on a new PSU, you don't have to. But if you want more headroom for the system, upgrading to a 750W or 850W is also an option. Upgrading will also reduce the load on the PSU, making it more quiet (fan doesn't need to turn on all the time) if you care about noise.

I'm no expert at PSUs nor PC building, I'm just sharing my decision making process when I built my system, so feel free to point out any mistakes I made Thanks for the input thomasC1989. I used coolermaster.com/power-supply-calculator/ and it showed an estimate of 560 W required for two 1070s based on the system I have so I believe I will need a PSU upgrade too just to be safe.Yeah, BETTER safe than sorry. Anyways, good luck on your new system upgrade! let us know your performance gains with the 2nd 1070...

Looking for color codes for some project?
Try:
images for color codes in electronics
Also:
images for color codes Ethernet
In photogrtphy:
images for color names in photogrtaphy

These will take you into the Google image colections. Often what your really want is something visual, not a lot of talk. The images coledftion of Google can help you find ANSWERS to thigns you visualize.

[ATTACHMENT deleted by admin to conserve space]Black Beetles Running Over Your Garden Bring Very GREY Weather

Better BUY Resistors Or Your Grid Bias Voltages Go West

I was taught another one, but it is far too politically incorrect to post here.

We were taught with "Billy brown revives on your gin but prefers good whisky"Quote from: camerongray on July 02, 2017, 01:03:41 PM

We were taught with "Billy brown revives on your gin but prefers good whisky"

where we etched our own hand-traced PCBs

...At this point I've forgotten nearly everything I learned.

I am using an LM324n quad-core op-amp. I have connected it between +24 V and GND. One of its op AMPS is USED as a buffer. When I pass the buffer a negative voltage, I get it inverted at the output although I expected it to be zero. Is this weird response somehow LOGICAL or expected?

Here is the datesheet of lm324n


Unfortunately I had some issues with Windows lately and I have no other schematic but for this handwritten one.

MOTOR VELOCITY input can become both positive and negative and that's where the issue is!Maybe I can help you. I have worked with Op-Amops years ago.
Why do you want to use an op-amp?
That device, the LM324 can be used either in a DC aplication or as a n audio amp.
In either case, the NORMAL method is to provide a split rail, + 12 volt and - 12 volt. If you want a bufgfer, you put a reitor from the output back to the invert input. ykou tie another risistor from the other input to grnd. You will get a voltage out of only a few milivolts.

Are you familiar witrh op-amops? The first thing to lern is to use a split ril supply.
Trying to bnias the thing from a SINGEL suppley can drive your ctrazy.

Why did you want to use a LM324?
I have stron opions about op amps, but even so, I might be of some help.
For gbeneral use, the 4558 dual is a good coice. IMO.
But you can make the LM324 work, but it does have a quirk.

I have a Seagate Expansion external hard drive unit I need to put a PASSWORD on, but there are some issues with this.....

*the hard drive is being sent to someone else who is not computer SAVVY (I'm not either, but more than they are)
*I have Win8.1, they have Win Vista....whatever is used has to work on both.
*Whatever METHOD is used has to be super simple and very easy to use, especially for the other person.
*I don't CARE if it's putting a password on a folder or the WHOLE drive, as long as it's simple and easy to do.
*It's got to be FREE, as this is the only instance I have ever needed to put a password on anything, so I don't want to spend money on a program I will only use once.

Is there a way to do this? So far, all of the information I've gotten is for specific Windows systems only, or way to complicated to use.


Thanks

So I watched a whole bunch of videos TODAY on cleaning laptops and some people EVEN mentioned about washing the heat sink with soap(is this true?).

I have done this before but I got it heated up again after about two months of using it and when I sent it to someone else for 10$ it lasted more longer.

So correct me if I'm wrong all I need is to:

Cleaning Heatsink with Compressed Air
Don't let the fan turn when using the Compressed Air
Replace Thermal Paste
Use brush to get some of the residue stuck at heatsink
Hold the compressed air upright

Anything else I'm missing? All is correct except the using soap on heatsink part seems overkill and might leave a residue that could affect thermal conductance. I use isopropyl alcohol when wanting to clean bottom of heatsink or CPU top from what little is remaining after wiping it off with a dry PAPER towel and q-tips.


As long as all dust is gone and heatsink can breathe then all should be good with old thermal compound removed and new applied and airflow thru it.



Run it thru the dishwasher on high...

Let cool afterwards...Quote from: DaveLembke on April 11, 2017, 01:17:22 PM

All is correct except the using soap on heatsink part seems overkill and might leave a residue that could affect thermal conductance. I use isopropyl alcohol when wanting to clean bottom of heatsink or CPU top from what little is remaining after wiping it off with a dry paper towel and q-tips.


As long as all dust is gone and heatsink can breathe then all should be good with old thermal compound removed and new applied and airflow thru it.

Run it thru the dishwasher on high...

Let cool afterwards...

I have a Biostar TZ77B mobo with an LGA 1155 socket, and I upgraded my ivy bridge i3-3220 to an i7-3770.

Afterwards, I turn on my computer and after the Biostar T-series splash screen, I get an American Megatrends screen that tells me that a new CPU has been detected, and I need to reset the motherboard to its defaults. Except I can't get into the bios/uefi using the prescribed keypress no matter how many times I try it.

Now, it must be said that the computer goes from this American Megatrends screen into Windows 10 and seems to work fine. It even registers the new cpu. Still, I try and try to reset to get into the bios/uefi to reset the mobo to the defaults.

Well, after getting some advice, I pull out the CMOS battery, which I'm told will reset the mobo defaults. After waiting a bit, I put it back in, it clicks firmly into place, BUT I'm still getting the American Megatrends screen telling that I need to reset to the mobo's defaults--which pulling the batter was supposed to accomplish--AND now I get a "cmos fail" message. Ugh.

I have to say, the computer still seems to work fine, it boots, loads the OS, etc., despite the problems.

What can I do? I'm at a loss. Any help would be greatly appreciated.I'd check your BIOS version it should say version at the splash screen. It may be working ok, but your BIOS might be the initial bios vs the newer bios with microcode for that CPU. http://www.biostar-usa.com/app/en-us/mb/introduction.php?S_ID=579#download

Quote

Z77DF419.BST UPDATE CPU micro CODE 4096 KB 2012-04-19

Please update system BIOS before upgrade your processor (CPU) to avoid system failure

Z77DF823.BST Fix USB KB and mouse in BIOS problem ( Beta ) 4096 KB 2012-08-23

Z77DF419.BST Update CPU micro code 4096 KB 2012-04-19

Z77DF419.BST Update CPU micro code 4096 KB 2012-04-19

Z77DF823.BST Fix USB KB and mouse in BIOS problem ( Beta ) 4096 KB 2012-08-23

BIOS Update Utility
Operating System Version Date File Size
Windows XP x86/ XP x64/ Vista x86/ Vista x64/ Server 2003 x86/ Server 2003 x64/ XP MCE/ 7 x86/ 7 x64/ 8 x64/ 8 x86/ 8.1 x86/ 8.1 x64/ 10 x86/ 10 x64

Last note. The ps2 keyboard worked, and I reset to the optimized defaults. Now I will have to decide whether to update the BIOS or leave well enough alone. Anyway, thanks so much for your help!

I'm looking for a internal capture card, price don't matter. Recording preference in 1080p 60fps - 4k.

Any suggestion would be nice.

Thanks!

-Gustavo WoltmannOne thing to consider is that while a capture card does a lot on its own, it requires some SYSTEM resources = CPU and Memory Load plus a lot of bandwidth for writing of data such as a dedicated drive or pair of drives acting as RAID 0 for MAXIMUM HDD performance.

What system are you going to be installing this card into? And would it make sense to have a second computer acting like a DVR so that the performance of your gaming system isnt hindered by having to capture the video and WRITE it to drive while at the same time juggling the gameplay?

I havent personally captured at 1080p and 60fps - 4k, but I use a software called FRAPS for recording my video game play and then I use VirtualDUB to take a large 25GB recording and size it down to like 1.2GB to post to Youtube for guild members to check out the nail biting moments and miracle moments or total wipes when we all die. The quality of my videos are what is common for youtube. Text chat on the crushed video is a little fuzzy but the gameplay is crisp ENOUGH to enjoy without saying wow its blurry etc. According to a Google search it looks like FRAPS can do 1080p 60fps, but FRAPS does load down your CPU and HDD. I use it with a system with a SSD and a HDD and the game is running on the SSD and the HDD is used for the heavy write cycling of the FRAPS recording as well as the crushing of it down to 1.2GB from 25GB without overworking the SSD because I want my SSD to last vs be overworked. If you have a high end gaming system, FRAPS might be able to work hand in hand with your gameplay without lagging out your system and SAVE you money from not having to buy a capture card or not having to build a system up to act like a DVR. Here is the google results for the 1080p 60fps https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=fraps+1080p+60fps

I have used FRAPS with my older Athlon II x4 620 2.6Ghz Corsair 4GB DDR2 800Mhz XMS2 and GeForce 260 GTX 768MB video card and 120GB SSD SATA II and SATA II 500GB HDD and my recordings are 45-50 fps with this older system (but not 1080p). I then set VirtualDUB to crush the video file and let my system run full tilt while I sleep to convert the video from say 25GB to 1.2GB AVI file to then upload it to youtube the next day. VirtualDUB is free and FRAPS just cost me for a single license and it has lifetime patch/updates, so I can go to website and download latest version and get newest features for free since I already own a single license of it.Dave, my presumption here would be that the capture card is intended for recording the output from a game console, rather than from the PC, as a capture card is intended for recording external output sources.

of course, that assumes they are aware of that distinction!Good Point BC... I had tunnel thought earlier that it was PC recording vs other video devices. If its a console system then FRAPS isnt a valid solution and a capture card needed, so what they are capturing matters.

One of our pets laid on our keyboard and now blackened 3" left and right margins show in all displays.
The graphics drivers are current and the card's STATUS is shown as working.
Since it appears a key or combination of keys caused this, I'm not in favor of changing the resolution, MESSING with the registry or doing much of anything with 'Settings' changes (unless some combination of keyboard keys was the reason).

What keys could have caused this?It's possible that a key-combination could have done that. It's dependent upon what video card driver you have. As an EXAMPLE, here are some instructions for key combos for a computer with INTEL graphics drivers: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/graphics-drivers/000005491.html

If your computer uses Intel graphics these instructions should HELP, otherwise you need to look up the instructions for whatever graphics driver your computer uses.

BTW it's F1 ...or delete to get to BIOS on that PC...

AMD FX-8350 4.0Ghz 8-core = $129.99
8GB DDR3 1600 = $57.00
Gigabyte AM3+ Motherboard = $ 59.99
Geforce GTX 570 = FREE for helping out a friend with a new build who didnt want to sell it but gave me it.
DVD-RW Drive = $0
Case = $0
600 Watt PSU = $0
256GB SSD = $0
1TB HDD = $0
Windows 7 64-bit = $99.99
Monitor, keyboard & Mouse = $0

FX-8350 upgrade cost me to build using existing parts + new and used = $346.97

AMD FX-8300 3.3Ghz 8-core = $99.99
8GB DDR3 1600 = $57.00
Biostar AM3+ Motherboard = $ 54.99
Geforce GTX 780 ti = $100 (used)
DVD-RW Drive = $0
Case = $0
600 Watt PSU = $0
120GB SSD = $0
500GB HDD = $0
Windows 7 64-bit = $99.99
Monitor, keyboard & Mouse = $0

FX-8300 3.3Ghz upgrade cost me to build using existing parts + new and used= $411.97

I recently built a computer loaded windows 10 onto it and everything was fine. I installed a game on steam to benchmark and within 5 minutes the computer completely turned off. I tried to turn the computer back on and got nothing so i took it apart to see if i could notice anything wrong and i found nothing. I then put it back together and got a beep code(1 long 3 short) which indicates with my motherboard a video card error. So i figured the video card was dead had it TESTED in a friends computer it worked fine tried it in mine again and got nothing. I've also tested it in both PCI-E slots and both give no power at all to the GPU and the fans on the GPU dont spin at all but everything ELSE seems fine. I have no idea where to go from here, Is it a bad motherboard or bad PSU? Also note the GPU was initially my friends but he upgraded to a new one and gave me his old one. This being the same FRIEND who tested it for me when it stopped working.
PC specs :
CPU: FX 6350
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo
MOBO: Gigabyte GA970A-D3P ATX AM3+/AM3 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage; Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive And Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply3 of 5 rating and lots of DOA's.... Id pull your CPU from it and get a board swap under warranty.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128627EGADS....3 DOA's...kinda rare for Gigabyte....

Also the vid card was never listed...even though it remains a suspect in this...Its too bad the motherboard doesnt have integrated GPU to fall back on for a lower level of troubleshooting. I have doubts its the power supply, and thinking its main board.

**Hopefully if its a video card that REQUIRES 12V Molex power, that the power is given to the videocard and not just relying on the PCI-E power. That is one way i could see a video card post beep occuring and not have it the power supply or motherboard.

What video card are you running... got us both CURIOUS now?

Hiya. I have a Lenovo Flex-3 1130 and its served me well, except for one problem that's frequently plagued me... the sound going out randomly.

I use it most for Skype, so a dropped call is indicative to me when the sound GOES out. Usually closing the lid or a restart gets the sound working, again. Some days I don't encounter this problem, at all, other days its constant. And, I just don't know where to go from here, in regards to diagnosing the problem, let ALONE FIXING it.

But now its gotten to the POINT that restarting doesn't fix it. So, I can totally watch YouTube videos, just can't hear 'em, for instance.

I'm hoping its just an issue with a driver, or something I can fix easily, and not something hardware related... but I thank anyone, in advance, for any and all help regarding the issue. 1st step would be check device manager...any Yellow ??'s ?

Curious why your not getting 2 of the seagates and have a WD and Seagate selected. The WD drive is only 5400 rpm, slower and more expensive while the Seagate is 7200 rpm, faster and a couple dollars cheaper on your list. I'd personally go with 2 of the same Seagate drives if you want 2 x 1TB drives and you will save a couple dollars. Additionally if you ever wanted to run RAID you would have a balance pairing vs one drive slower than the other.

Everything else looks good. Witcher 3 is a heavy on hardware game and your choice of components are a perfect match for CPU/GPU for that game.

Greetings,

So I have bought a new rig yesterday and was very excited to get the monster GTX 1070 and I have few questions about it.

This is the first time I am attempting overclocking so I am no expert in it and I have been reading around that the Micron memory of the GTX 1070 is not good for overclocking and there is a need to update the BIOS to fix that. As it stands in GPU Z my BIOS version is 86.04.26.00.62 and based on Asus website there is a newer BIOS version for my card to install. Now my questions are:

- Is it safe to apply the BIOS to the card?

- If I plan to overclock it, would I need a better PSU for power? (a 600 W PSU is installed currently).

- Will I be able to safely use the card for mining or constant gaming ?

- Which program is best for overclocking?

Specs:

Asus Sabertooth 990fx r2
Amd FX-8350 black ed
Corsair H55 v2 quiet CPU cooler
Asus Geforce GTX 1070 Strix OC 8GB
Kingston hyper fury 16G 1866Hz
Corsair CX600M
Samsung 840 EVO 120 GB SSD


Regards



[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]I wouldnt overclock unless you really need to. I personally save overclocking for end-life of my hardware when trying to push older hardware to do new tricks to stretch its life another 6 months of a YEAR etc.

Depending on what your going to mine with this video card you might find that the mining is completely pointless, that is the cost of electricity and wear on your card comes at a greater cost than whatever is mined. I for example tried to get in on bitcoin mining and my hardware was running around the CLOCK for a month and no bitcoins generated yet I had an electric bill to pay for it and I had a system to clean out that was filling faster than ever with dust from the system running all the time drawing air in and out of itself. I read into ways to increase my odds of bitcoin farming and found that there is hardware out there specific to bitcoin farming these days that runs laps 100x faster than a single power hungry PC could ever crunch out the math in search for them, and at a fraction of the power consumption with many of them running on lesser than 100 watts each. These were engineered specifically for farming and PC's cant compete with them. People also had systems with multiple video cards teamed to crunch for bitcoins and many of them lost lots of money or had to sell their hardware off at a fraction of what they paid new for it when they found out just like me that the easy pickings for the bitcoins are long gone and more and more work is required in processing to grab at the harder to get fruit ( bitcoins ) that are out there in mathematical limbo of which the locations are unknown until discovery if pretty much how it works. The bitcoin farming started off in the early days of it with them detected and mined pretty quickly in comparison to that of today, but the processing to mine them is exponential, so as they are discovered, the next one is that much harder to get to as the math formula deals with ever greater numbers to calculate with which takes more and more processing time or more and more powerful processors. I gave up on the bitcoin farming idea. There are also others like bitcoin that are also not easy to acquire. I also tried litecoin. I have a digital wallet that is empty. But at least I gave it a shot and learned from it.

Flashing any device has its risks. If you have the proper firmware to flash to it you should be ok. If you send the wrong or corrupt firmware to it or power is disrupted during the flash of the BIOS you can kill the video card. I only flash devices when I really need to such as a bug fix or such as in motherboards where a newer BIOS opens up the door to support for better processors to upgrade to.

Your power supply of 600 watts is plenty and a trusted brand. No worries there.

The video card with constant mining and gaming, they all have a life cycle and excessive use can lead to earlier death. The cards weakness is in its fans, they dont spin forever. So with heavy use they will fail sooner than later. Additionally you will want to make sure that you keep it free of dust so it stays as cool as it can. Heat is a risk to all computer hardware.

I avoid overclocking programs unless they came specifically with or for the device that its used on. I avoid using 3rd party overclock tools on hardware for fear that they might push hardware beyond what the OEM deemed safe operating conditions.


I also have the AMD FX-8350 and I have cool n quiet enabled on my BIOS to underclock it to keep my system cool and less power hungry when idle or when games played dont require a cpu running full tilt. The only 2 things with my FX-8350 that I kind of dislike is that its a hot blooded CPU and the heatsink that came with it is almost inadequate, the CPU runs hot with stock heatsink and I even removed side cover thinking maybe I had a hot pocket of air in the case and that didnt help much. The CPU fan runs at 100% and is loud to cool the CPU and my FX-8300 a 95watt TDP 3.3Ghz I actually like better because it runs cooler on the stock heatsink and is quieter and STILL plenty of processing power. The last thing I dislike with the FX-8350 is that single-core execution, that is a game that pulls 1 core of the 8 sure its running at 4.0Ghz vs say 3.3Ghz on my other system with similar core design, but I have a Athlon II X4 620 2.6Ghz that when testing single-core benchmarking, the difference was mainly in the faster clock getting calculations to happen sooner vs later. The Athlon II x4 620 2.6Ghz is a weaker older core design than that of the FX-8300 and FX-8350, but I had the chance to try out single-core execution on a Core i5 2.4Ghz and that beat the pants off the single-core execution of the FX-8300 and FX-8350 because these CPUs were made at a time that AMD was stuck with pushing an older core design harder to compete with Intel and thats when they started making 125 watt and over 200 watt TDP CPU's to overdrive the older core technology to complete with Intel. Hopefully your FX-8350 stays cool... maybe you have liquid cooling and heat isnt an issue.Decent rig...why you wanna overclock ? ?...For 8-12% performance gain ? ?

Not worth it at all.Quote from: DaveLembke on June 27, 2017, 09:56:47 AM

I wouldnt overclock unless you really need to. I personally save overclocking for end-life of my hardware when trying to push older hardware to do new tricks to stretch its life another 6 months of a year etc.

Depending on what your going to mine with this video card you might find that the mining is completely pointless, that is the cost of electricity and wear on your card comes at a greater cost than whatever is mined. I for example tried to get in on bitcoin mining and my hardware was running around the clock for a month and no bitcoins generated yet I had an electric bill to pay for it and I had a system to clean out that was filling faster than ever with dust from the system running all the time drawing air in and out of itself. I read into ways to increase my odds of bitcoin farming and found that there is hardware out there specific to bitcoin farming these days that runs laps 100x faster than a single power hungry PC could ever crunch out the math in search for them, and at a fraction of the power consumption with many of them running on lesser than 100 watts each. These were engineered specifically for farming and PC's cant compete with them. People also had systems with multiple video cards teamed to crunch for bitcoins and many of them lost lots of money or had to sell their hardware off at a fraction of what they paid new for it when they found out just like me that the easy pickings for the bitcoins are long gone and more and more work is required in processing to grab at the harder to get fruit ( bitcoins ) that are out there in mathematical limbo of which the locations are unknown until discovery if pretty much how it works. The bitcoin farming started off in the early days of it with them detected and mined pretty quickly in comparison to that of today, but the processing to mine them is exponential, so as they are discovered, the next one is that much harder to get to as the math formula deals with ever greater numbers to calculate with which takes more and more processing time or more and more powerful processors. I gave up on the bitcoin farming idea. There are also others like bitcoin that are also not easy to acquire. I also tried litecoin. I have a digital wallet that is empty. But at least I gave it a shot and learned from it.

Flashing any device has its risks. If you have the proper firmware to flash to it you should be ok. If you send the wrong or corrupt firmware to it or power is disrupted during the flash of the BIOS you can kill the video card. I only flash devices when I really need to such as a bug fix or such as in motherboards where a newer BIOS opens up the door to support for better processors to upgrade to.

Your power supply of 600 watts is plenty and a trusted brand. No worries there.

The video card with constant mining and gaming, they all have a life cycle and excessive use can lead to earlier death. The cards weakness is in its fans, they dont spin forever. So with heavy use they will fail sooner than later. Additionally you will want to make sure that you keep it free of dust so it stays as cool as it can. Heat is a risk to all computer hardware.

I avoid overclocking programs unless they came specifically with or for the device that its used on. I avoid using 3rd party overclock tools on hardware for fear that they might push hardware beyond what the OEM deemed safe operating conditions.


I also have the AMD FX-8350 and I have cool n quiet enabled on my BIOS to underclock it to keep my system cool and less power hungry when idle or when games played dont require a cpu running full tilt. The only 2 things with my FX-8350 that I kind of dislike is that its a hot blooded CPU and the heatsink that came with it is almost inadequate, the CPU runs hot with stock heatsink and I even removed side cover thinking maybe I had a hot pocket of air in the case and that didnt help much. The CPU fan runs at 100% and is loud to cool the CPU and my FX-8300 a 95watt TDP 3.3Ghz I actually like better because it runs cooler on the stock heatsink and is quieter and still plenty of processing power. The last thing I dislike with the FX-8350 is that single-core execution, that is a game that pulls 1 core of the 8 sure its running at 4.0Ghz vs say 3.3Ghz on my other system with similar core design, but I have a Athlon II X4 620 2.6Ghz that when testing single-core benchmarking, the difference was mainly in the faster clock getting calculations to happen sooner vs later. The Athlon II x4 620 2.6Ghz is a weaker older core design than that of the FX-8300 and FX-8350, but I had the chance to try out single-core execution on a Core i5 2.4Ghz and that beat the pants off the single-core execution of the FX-8300 and FX-8350 because these CPUs were made at a time that AMD was stuck with pushing an older core design harder to compete with Intel and thats when they started making 125 watt and over 200 watt TDP CPU's to overdrive the older core technology to complete with Intel. Hopefully your FX-8350 stays cool... maybe you have liquid cooling and heat isnt an issue.

Decent rig...why you wanna overclock ? ?...For 8-12% performance gain ? ?

Not worth it at all.

The memory overclock with GPU Tweak seems at full while on MSI Afterburner, it shows 0?

When it comes to Graphics Cards, if you want to overclock just for the sake of overclocking, then you probably shouldn't. Typically, they tend to be far less tolerant to overclocking, largely because the Cooler designs tend to be designed for the factory specifications, so unless the card comes overclocked already, you are more likely to have problems; best case scenario is the fans can keep up which means the fans will die sooner and it will be noisier.

The 1070 is a rather high-end card anyway; there wouldn't be any reason to overclock it at this point. Usually Best to wait a few years when it starts to be a "lower end" offering, then you can overclock to eke a bit more life out of it.

Another good reason not to overclock the graphics card in your case is that, because of your CPU, it won't have any effect- the 8350FX bottlenecks a 1070.

Which leads to the other option- overclocking the CPU. That is perhaps more useful. the 8350 is a few years old now and is at the point where overclocking it can see the biggest gains; It can't catch up to the 1070 but it can at least do better.
Well, GPU Tweak is ASUS, the same as your card. MSI Afterburner isn't.

Another good reason not to overclock the graphics card in your case is that, because of your CPU, it won't have any effect- the 8350FX bottlenecks a 1070.

BC do you know what the maximum GPU is paired with that FX-8350 before the bottleneck starts to occur?

AsRock G41M-VS3 R2.0, these drivers :
http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/G41M-VS3%20R2.0/?cat=Download&os=Win764
Asrock ain't real good at defining things...I'd re-install 2nd one down...which looks LIKE the chipset drivers...then re-boot and re-install the AUDIO DRIVER...

Some onboard COMPONENTS rely on chipset to work properly...

Other than that i'm out of suggestions.

Onboard vid chip may have failed as well...Good Luck.

P.S....do Both audio drivers listed after doin chipset
Ok thanks man I appreciate the Help. If it wasn´t for this I´d be F´d.Just keep in mind the onboard chip may have in fact failed...

Solution : A new audio CARD for 30 Bucks or so....

I have read the thread on here about hardware monitor error but nothing I tried from that thread helped. So I'm hoping by posting this someone can give me some advice.

I have a very old desk top computer I am trying to get RUNNING again. Every time I try to power it up I get the message: "Hardware monitor found an error. Enter power setup menu for details." I have gone to the power setup menu and the only thing I could see that might be WRONG was under the +12v listing. It read out at 11.8v. So I removed the power supply which was 165w and replaced it with another power supply rated at 330w. This solved the low voltage of 11.8v and brought it up to 12.2v. This did not solve the hardware monitor error. I went back into the power setup menu and disabled everything hoping that it would just bypass this part of the boot up. Again, this did not work. I don't know what else to do. Can anyone give me some input as to how I can resolve this problem? Thank you so very much in advance.

Computer spec's:
Award Medallion BIOS v6.0
BIOS Revision 1002
Intel Pentium 4 2200 Mhz Processor
Award Plug and Play BIOS Extension v1.0A
HDD: Maxtor 6L080L0
CD ROM: HL-DT-ST GCE-8400B
Memory: 1048576KI'd guess that the CPU is overheating. Given the AGE of the system, The Heatsink may be clogged with dust, so the CPU runs far too hot. (Pentium 4 CPU's ran incredibly hot), or, the Fan on the heatsink or otherwise INTENDED to breeze air over the heatsink may have failed.I have cleaned all of the dust out of it. You could eat dinner off it. The MB temperature is reading at 77 degree's and the CPU temperature is reading at 122.5 degree's. The CPU fan speed is 2220 RPM's.No matter how you cleaned those temps are high...unless it's Faranheit...
Sorry......Yes the temperatures are in faraheit.If you can get the motherboard model number then we/you could look for the Motherboard Manual, it may provide a more complete pictures of what would trip this "monitor" feature.


I found a post which suggests that the Power Supply itself may have a Monitor connector for the motherboard.

Quote

Look for a brown 3-pin connector shell with one each blue, white, and black wires terminated to it. This is your power supply fan monitoring cable. Plug it into the mainboard mating connector, marked "PWR FAN", typically located top right quadrant of the mainboard , below the dvd/cd drive.

Does his device ACCEPT a cat5e cable all I can FIND under Network & Communication is it ACCEPTS Ethernet I would think all laptops and tablets should have cat5e connection?That IS an Ethernet cable.As far as I'm aware, the N22 does not have an Ethernet port, in order to connect to a wired network you would need to get a USB to Ethernet adaptor. If you're buying one, get one that is USB 3.0 to get the full performance.

I've got an A4 picture that consists of a a main title and 6 smaller photos. I want a JPEG version of it so used the scanner. HOWEVER in the preview I have got 2 of the photos separated out as individual pictures with the title and remaining 4 as a single 3rd picture.

It's being too clever for me - how can I force it to stick to the original layout?Are you relying on software to detect and separate photos from within a single scan?

Myself I have always just done a full platen scan and manually grab each IMAGE within the main image and save those as their own pictures. Never used any software that will detect and isolate multiple photos from within a single scan before.Hi Davel,

No, I'm trying to get a jpeg version by scanning in a single A4 page that has 6 photos on it, i.e the jpeg will be a single page that shows all 6 pictures.

I expected it to be a very basic job and am totally puzzled as to why it took the page apart. Looks like they have MODE selections for that scanner and depending on the mode it will behave differently. It looks like a feature of this scanner is to allow a single scan to take say your 6 IMAGES and make them into 6 individual images instead of one scan with all images in a single image file.

Looks like you may just need to change the mode to one that doesnt do this, or there is an advanced setting checkbox somewhere to TURN off this feature of photo recognition within scans: https://files.support.epson.com/htmldocs/pr317p/pr317prf/howto_4.htm

Hello all,
I have had PROBLEMS with my laptop lately and now I need a clue. My charger has a tip on the end which removable. The cable has two pins on the end and the tip plugs onto it and the other end of the tip plugs into the laptop.

Well. I got the polarity wrong with the pins once and my laptop hated it. There was a burnt smell in the air and it would no longer boot up.
So I popped in a new mother board and ... nothing on the screen. The LEDs lit up and I could hear the disc drive turning but blank screen. Then I REMOVED the HDD and gave to my friend so he could take the data off of it. I DECIDED to try booting without the HDD and voila! The Bios screen came up.

So now does that MEAN my new motherboard is OK and does this mean I need a new hard drive? Am I missing SOMETHING?

Please clue.
Thanks,
PaulDid your friend who is getting your data off that drive have any luck with it at all working for him?

If drive works for him then the drive is fine, but of the drive doesnt then the drive is cooked.It could also mean the boot sector of the hdd got messed up so it would be possible that your friend could get data off the drive but you still wouldn't be able to boot from it. How long did you wait for it to boot? Did you get an error message saying something like "Can't find OS"?

If it's just the boot sector, then you should be able to repair it and have the drive bootable again.

Since I installed my new Pixma printer the computer has gotten real lazy, Click on a site and wait , when the site does open, a click on a video or something and another long wait, It used to react instantly, perhaps it is not the printer I am GUESSING, I have done the usual disk clean and virus scans re booted etc, anyone got a suggestion as to what to try NEXT ? What Make/Model computer or if a custom build all the SPECS?

Which version of Windows and with the virus scans was anything ever detected in the past that went to quarantine?

What do you have for an internet connection? ( DSL, BROADBAND, Satellite, Dial-up... someone elses wifi etc... )

I upgraded my GRAPHICS card from a Amd raedon hd 7770 to a xfx Rx 480. After installing the card and downloading latest drivers I got on Counter-Strike and within 5 minutes my Computer Black screened shutdown like instantly. I thought this was due to overheating so i REBOOTED and monitered the temps while playing and it turned off again but the temps where way below overheating levels (60c for both cpu and gpu with 35% fan speed). I SWITCHED the card back to my old one and it ran perfectly with no shutdowns at all. the only thing i could think of that could be causing this would be my power supply which is a Viotek Vio60 600 Watt Atx Switching Power Supply. 600w is more than enough to power the Rx 480 so i was wondering is the shutdown being cause by the quality of the power supply? I have attached a picture of the label on the power supply.

[attachment deleted by ADMIN to conserve space]I won't say it unequivocally...but that's a garbage PSU...Quote from: patio on April 15, 2017, 03:04:23 PM

I won't say it unequivocally...but that's a garbage PSU...

The rx480 has well known power problems, the biggest one in your case would be that the maximum draw of 142W via the PCI-E connector and 155W through the PCI-E connector come to a total of 297W. The Power supply can only deliver 360W on the 12V Total. What likely happens is the rx480 is spiiking it's power draw and that results in the motherboard power for other components being browned out, resulting in a blank screen.

And that's even assuming the label is accurate.

I have done a fresh install of Windows 7. Now, after the computer boots up, then within 5 minutes I get this BSOD "Bad pool Caller". How can this be fixed
Which version of Windows 7, and did you install this via DVD or USB stick? Is this a brand new build or a rebuild of an older system?Sounds like you didn't re-install the correct drivers after re-doing Win7.
DaveLembke,

Its win 7 ultimate installed from a DVD, its a fresh installation, MEANING after deleting the existing partitions.

patio,

hi, when you put the wind 7 disk in the laptop, it boots up and installs windows, connects to the internet, gets the sound driver and stuff. Is there something else I NEED to also do, like go to their website, download and install all the drivers? Also, I had another question, what is the difference between deleting partitions vs reformatting them when you are prompted at new install?

And are you sure its just the drivers that are CAUSING this BSOD

its a toshiba satellite l455d-s5976You need to go to the website of the laptop manufacturer and download and install all appropriate drivers, STARTING with the chipset driver.Allan,
I thought it does that automatically with windows update
anyway, Ill do that, my laptop shows that bad pool caller error now, so it is better to go to the manufacturer website toshiba and download the drivers, or should I do a fresh install first?

Could there be any other reason for this bad pool caller error?Do the drivers from Toshiba's site...I dont see any chipset drivers on the toshiba satellite website. my laptop number is L455D-S5976. What do I do

Hi there, I'm a little confused right now with what's happening to my computer... I was doing nothing special, and just playing on my computer typically and then it froze into a grey SCREEN and produce a lot of static. Nothing worked so I hard shut off my computer, and booted it back on... it first went into a blue state (pretty sure it was BSOD). Nothing helped so I turned the whole system off and it then just goes to a completely green screen.

The first time it did this, it was was windows updates but the text on the screen was extremely glitchy... once it had done I was back to my same issue. I've TRIED keeping it off for a period of 24 hours, I booted it once this morning, power died (so I know the computer works to an extent), however I just got home and booted it back on, and I came back to the same disgusting green screen.

Whilst you're probably going to get annoyed at this, this may be my causation of the problem. Sometimes I'll leave my computer running for a couple days at a time. Could it have overheated and caused damage to the hardware - after it first died, I booted it up and my tower sounded like a jet engine.

Sorry if I posted this in the wrong place, I just feel certain that is possibly is a hardware issue, but I'm unsure. I haven't downloaded anything recently at all. I am also on the Windows 10 operating system.

Thanks in advance... I have just tried booting my computer again, and it came up with "it looks like windows didn't load correctly", pressing restart will take it back to my green screen. Troubleshoot fails to find any problems, and the restore points all corrupt...See Here...I did everything there. Nothing really fixed my problem. However, I took initiative and reformatted my computer back to Windows 8.1 (from Windows 10). The only issue I currently face is, my graphics is significantly worse, everything look horrible compared to before... FURTHERMORE, my Screen Resolution is generically set around 20-- x 15--. Whereas, the screen resolution setting only fills 1920 x 1050 (If I were to equip this, my entire display would shrink with a 1cm+ border around it, towards the edge of the monitor. To solve this I had to degrade the resolution by two, to get it to maximise and fill which hit 1680 x 1050).

Some drivers' are failing to install, or yield problems. The current problem I'm facing is a High Definition Audio Device that keeps giving Error Code 10. I have tried searching for updates (none found) and a large portion of the fixes on the web. Pretty sure my PC is totalled.

Could the graphics issue be caused by a *censored* video driver, but having the CPU compensate and act for it instead? (I don't know much on this area). You need to re-install ALL Win8 drivers for that PC after a clean install...Chipset drivers 1st...then re-boot...then all others.As Patio says, you need to reinstall the drivers for the system. This means going to the manufacturer's website for the system and downloading the appropriate drivers for your system.

A hardware problem is incredibly unlikely.


Quote

Whilst you're probably going to get annoyed at this, this may be my causation of the problem. Sometimes I'll leave my computer running for a couple days at a time.

I don't know if the cause of this problem is hardware related or the BIOS software soooo move if need be.

Hello y'all, so I guess I'll get straight to the problem and what I've done to try and fix it.

Alrighty so basically the lappy was acting odd/laggy and it had been on for a day or 2 straight. So I decided it was about time to restart it and I went to restart and it popped up saying it still had some THINGS running and so I did force restart.

Went down then back up and it was in BIOS for some reason. It asked something and so I made like 2 changes and I can't even remember what the changes were to be honest and I'm mad at myself for it. So after I went to save and Exit the laptop would NOT go past the MSI Logo.
i.imgur .com/SIc127p.jpg
(remove the space)

Now that I'm stuck on the logo, I can't get into BIOS I tried tapping Del key over and over or even F1 F2 F3 F4 I tried doing them +Ctrl and +Alt and +Ctrl+Alt
It simply will not go past this. The Power button is staying White, and the keyboard lights up BUT if I press numlock or caps lock the light will NOT cut on on the board for whatever reason.

So after doing what I can with it like it is, and I've tried booting it with no usb things in still nothing. I did some digging and thought if I could get to the CMOS battery that I could reset the BIOS and undo whatever settings I changed and I'd be back in business. I took my laptop apart, yes even down to the mother board, found what I figured is the CMOS. My CMOS looks different then a lot of what I've seen on other mother BOARDS where it just pops on out.
Pic : i.imgur .com/TXi2cFz.jpg
(remove the space)


So then a cord goes to the other side of the board

Pic : i.imgur .com/qYmtf2b.jpg
(remove the space)


(I did the following without the big battery in the laptop, just pointing that out before somebody says it.)
So I left it out for 5 minutes, plugged it in, nothing. I did it for 30, same thing. I did it for a whole 24 hours, nothing.

After doing this and taking my baby apart and putting it back again together again I'm still getting this same thing. :/
I'm totally lost. I called MSI support and he told me to hold down the power button with no battery in for 40 sec to reset BIOS and that didn't seem to work.

They said my warantee is still good and to send it in but I'd have to pay for shipping and that if they figured that the issue was caused by me taking it apart(which it wasn't it happened prior) they would still repair it but I'd have to pay for the repair.
I'm in the middle of changing jobs, so I'm using all my money at the moment to get to this new job AND move closer to said job and I'm only making it by because of my mom helping a bit. So I don't have money for shipping and possible paying the fix fee.

So I thought maybe it's the hard drive that's messed up, and it does the same thing without the harddrive in or with the harddrive of another laptop in. So I'm thinking that it's not even getting to the point of reading the hard drive. My friend said that he figures that it's not even getting to POST , which I believe.

I wouldn't have to replace the mother board just because of a setting I changed in BIOS would I?

Shouldn't my keyboard lights like Caps and Numlock still come on Pre POST or during POST so that I CAN get into BIOS?

If any of you guys have any ideas let me know and I'll try them. Thanks for any support!
I just basically NEED this computer to work :/ I've taken apart laptops and put them back together perfectly fine so that's not an issue, and when I'm with this new job I'll be building my own desktop, but for now I just need this.

[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]You got to the splash screen and no further. The last one I had do that, it was the Hdd. If you are getting to the first splash screen then it IS POSTing. Are you getting any beeps? Thanks for your reply, and no , no beeps are happening, and from what I've noticed I've never heard a beep on startup with this lappy.
How costly is shipping it back?

MSI has been known to fail in ways like this due to quality issues, you will want to take advantage of any warranty that may be left on this. And opening it up to the extent that you did you may have voided this.

If at all possible, I'd reseat the RAM, and try to get it to boot off a bootable disc with MEMTEST86 and perform an extensive memory test. If you cant get it to boot off of a disc, check to make sure the boot order is set to optical drive first, and if it still doesnt want to boot its in pretty rough shape and will likely have to go back as for this bootable disc does not require a hard drive to function etc and so its not even getting to the boot of ran OS step of the start up sequence.

I'm not sure on cost of shipping, I've personally never shipped anything out aside from snail mail.

I asked the guy on the support line and he assured me that the warantee was still able to be used regardless of opening.
If they can "fix" this then so can I, I just need to know how.

I've taken the RAM out and put it back in. I'm not sure how to get it to boot off of a bootable disc. I can't make sure of the boot order because I can't get into BIOS at all.Quote

I can't make sure of the boot order because I can't get into BIOS at all.

I asked the guy on the support line and he assured me that the warantee was still able to be used regardless of opening.
If they can "fix" this then so can I, I just need to know how.

I've had this problem for several months now and have been unable to find a solution elsewhere. Maybe someone here can help.

Here's the story:

I was using a self-built machine. Suddenly, about 3 months ago, random USB device disconnect-like sounds started occurring (sometimes 3x in a row, other times not for several hours) - I disabled all system sounds and it still continued, even though I didn't notice any USB hardware blips). Two months ago, I bought the new Intel NUC7i7BNH, installed Windows 10, and within a few hours the ISSUE suddenly started all over again.

I've recorded the sound. Here's the link: https://soundcloud.com/finvarra/nuc-sound

I have replaced or swapped out literally all my hardware (even eliminated USB devices completely and used BLUETOOTH keyboard/mouse), disabled all Windows power-saving settings, turned off ALL Windows system sounds, tested the same configuration on *3* different computers (1 running Win 10, the 2 others Win 7), been on several computer help forums, pretty eliminated every computer-related fix Google (and several computer advisers) could suggest including testing all USBs and running USBDeview (with no hits) - and the same "disconnect" sound (or whatever it is) continues.

So by now I have ruled out this being a USB or Windows issue.

It's definitely coming through the speakers b/c I can lower the volume. I get no hardware hiccups. Usually, the sound is the 2 tone Downward disconnect sound, but sometimes it just seems like 1 tone. The randomness is what is really frustrating. For instance it was silent all yesterday morning, then 3 times in a half-hour, then nothing until this morning - just once - and then suddenly nearly a dozen times in 10 minutes. There is just no pattern - no particular change in electrical usage - and the sound cannot be controlled or even disabled in Windows. The events viewer never shows anything that corresponds to the sounds.

One hypothesis was that it could be electrical in nature. I tested all the sockets on the circuit (tested fine) and even replaced them. No change. I thought that maybe it could be a firewall issue in my router (notifications???) and disabled it. No change. Someone thought it might be an alert from the router and sent packets to the router to try to replicate the sound. Nothing.

To summarize... I'm looking for something that (a) sounds like the above; (b) comes through the speakers (b/c I can lower the volume on it), (b) is totally independent of anything I may be doing (or not doing anything) at the time; (c) and is completely random.

The NUC itself is running great... and I would just like to figure out WHAT the sound is, WHERE it's coming from, and HOW i can disable it.

*I would appreciate ANY direction as this has been very frustrating experience. Thanks!Are these speakers connected via bluetooth or do they have bluetooth support to where other devices portable devices are interacting with them?

Asking this because it sounds like an issue my wife had with her speakers for her PC. They had bluetooth support and made a chime when devices connected and disconnected from them.No, unfortunately.

Powered speakers -> AudioQuest Dragonfly DAC -> USB. (And the issue predates all this hardware.)

Was the sound on your wife's PC similar to the sound I posted?Is this the same sound as when you connect/disconnect USB?

It is obviously not the Windows default sound, so I wonder if perhaps you might have changed the sound settings to point at another file, in which case it would mean it is a USB connect/disconnect sound and we can look at that.

Since it's not a USB connect/disconnect sound I've ever heard, I suspect it is coming from some software installed on the system. You may be able to open the Volume Mixer when you hear the sound and see if there is a weird Audio session present- or leave the volume mixer open and see if you can catch the software emitting the sound.

It's also possible it is a notification sound that is used by a website, in which case it would be coming from your browser. Otherwise it could be AV or any number of different pieces of software. A lot of software seems to think that it must notify the user of crap that nobody cares about by default, because they are just oh-so-important which of course becomes entirely annoying because you don't actually know *censored* is making the sound... But now I'm starting to rant myself!No, it's not the same sound - and I've already disabled ALL Windows sound settings.

In the months this issue has been happening, I've pretty much exhausted the possibility that it's a USB issue - I've used every test I could find and nothing ever shows up that corresponds with the time of the event. As far as software... different software on all three computers, but same sound. Same with the notification sound hypothesis.

I'm thinking that it has to be something electrical (random power surges?) or external (some unknown device trying to connect?)... but would anything like this make that sound?

I'm stumped. Anyone have any out-of-the-box ideas. I'll try anything - short of a sledgehammer (yet)!More info on the PC and components would be helpful....

Quote

A lot of software seems to think that it must notify the user of crap that nobody cares about by default, because they are just oh-so-important which of course becomes entirely annoying because you don't actually know *censored* is making the sound... But now I'm starting to rant myself!

I'm thinking that it has to be something electrical (random power surges?) or external (some unknown device trying to connect?)... but would anything like this make that sound?

Easy connections and control

Convenient connections built into the back of one speaker make it easy to hook up a portable music player like an iPod or iPhone®. A USB power output lets you charge your player, and a minijack input accepts the audio signal from its headphone jack. A rear RCA input lets you connect another audio source. Both channels of amplification are built into the left speaker, so you just make a simple, secure connection between the left and right speakers using the gold-plated speaker terminals. An included remote control makes it easy to adjust the volume, even when you're sitting across the room.

For a wireless connection to your Bluetooth®-enabled MOBILE device, check out AudioEngine's B1 Bluetooth adapter.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_772B1ADPT/Audioengine-B1.html

I set a Bios PASSWORD for my computer a while back and now want to remove the password. I went through the Advanced options MENU and selected UEFI Firmware SETTINGS. Once it reboots I enter my bios password but it just takes me straight to my user login screen. I know I can remove that battery on my Motherboard or jumpers, but don't see why I can't just enter the menu and change it when I know the password.
Possibly you have Fast Boot enabled in the Windows Power Options? disabled fast boot, but the same issue happens. I restart choosing UEFI firmware settings and end up at my login screen
Makes no sense at all...BIOS password isn't in UEFI settings so your apparently doing something wrong...Quote from: regaknock on April 16, 2017, 05:29:09 PM

and end up at my login screen

As the TITLE says, recently my laptop has not been able to get past the initial MSI logo screen. A few days ago it took a little longer than usual to get past this screen when booting up, but it made it, so I thought nothing of it, the next day it had done a windows update restart and ever since it never gets past this screen even LEAVING it overnight. It doesn't respond to any commands, can't get into BIOS at all, even the num and capslock lights don't respond

I have tried removing the internal battery, holding the power button down, holding the bios reset button thing down. I have REMOVED the HDD and the battery and tried booting, nothing works. One similar post here said that removing the graphics card allowed them to get into BIOS and fix from there, HOWEVER this model comes with an Nvidia geforce 940MX which doesn't APPEAR to be removable.

The only recent change I have made was to download the latest driver from the nvidia website, could this have caused the problem? Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance for the help.

Hi. I want to buy a GTX 980 video card and I have a 620W power supply unit. Is it enough for me?
That is GOING to RATHER depend on the rest of the system.I looked if the PROCESSOR will not be overclocked it's going to be about 500W and 30A (that exactly have my PSU) I just do not know whether it is worth to buy another PSU.
The complete rest of the system is what i THINK BC meant...
Right now we got the card...and the CPU...

Another thing to consider is the QUALITY of your PSU...if it's junk all bets are off.

I don't know if this is where I'd ask this question, but I've spent months searching for an answer and this is the first "computer questions" site I've found. BASICALLY, I've looked up my issue, and everything I FIND is for a screen that's been shattered which isn't the case for me. My acer computer screen turns on, but it doesn't show me the picture. It shows a screen in various colors from black to grey to white, and is covered in multicolor lines. My previous roommate got mad at US over my cat who fell ill, and slammed his fist down on my computer. Then, this issue started happening. If I fiddle with it for long enough, the screen picture will come back and I can use it, like to access the Internet but if the screens bumped, it goes back to the lines. I can also plug it into my television and it works, but the purpose of having a laptop is mobility, isn't it? I'm guessing it's something with wires, and that it'll be expensive to have professionally repaired. Seeing as I'm a full TIME college student whose paycheck goes to rent, I can't afford to have it done professionally. So, I was wondering 1) if this is even a repair I COULD do myself and 2) obviously, how to do it. Thanks.

Hello all and thank you for being here. My problem is that if I'm on FB or email or even open two or more pages of the same thing...the pages turn black.
My OS is Windows 10. I've done: Malewarebytes scan, SuperAntiVirus scan, and my Advast scan. Nothing showed up.
Any ideas? TYI

I appreciate it very much. This does not sound like an infected computer. Are there any other symptoms?Hi, thank you for answering. No other symptoms. I was LOOKING at my email and it just TURNED black. I thought at FIRST it might have been FB, but not the case. I keep my pc updated and scan daily. So, I have no idea what's going on.
This sound more like a hardware problem. I'm going to move this thread to the hardware forum. Perhaps you will get more help there.Going to agree- this does sound like a hardware issue. Specifically, a Graphics Card/Driver problem.

You might be ABLE to fix the issue by adjusting Google Chrome's Hardware acceleration option. In the Chrome Menu on the right, choose Settings, then you can scroll down and find "Show Advanced Settings". Scroll down further and you should find a "Use Hardware acceleration when available" option. UNCHECK it and restart chrome.I don't use Chrome. I use Firefox/IE.Oh, not sure why I assumed Chrome- it's not even my own preference so that came out of nowhere.

Firefox and Internet Explorer have similar options. In Firefox it is in the advanced section in preferences "Use hardware acceleration when available" which you might try disabling.

For IE it can be found in the Internet Options settings, where it can be found on the advanced tab, as "Use software rendering instead of GPU rendering" which you can try turning on.

Hi I'm pretty much a novice to computer upgrades. I'm wondering if I'm putting too much stress on my motherboard(H81M-E34). I Have recently upgraded my graphics card from a GeForce GT 720 to a GeForce GTX 1050ti SSC. Also have upgraded my processor from a Intel Pentium G3240 to a Intel I7 4790K. And upgraded Ram my From DDR3 2x4 8gb (unnamed brand) to a DDR3 2x8 16GB PNY PC3-14900
(Model:MD16384KD3-1866-K-X10). If anybody could help I would really appreciate it so I don't mess up my NEW parts.

p.s thanks in advanceOnly concern I have is what your running for a power supply to power all this. The system has a power hungry CPU and GPU where prior it was lightweight.

Additionally just verify that the system temps are staying cool and nothing is running HOT. If temps are good and you have a power supply adequate for the power demands then you should be all set.

Video card calls for 300 watts or greater power supply, and this card is the newer GTX card that doesnt require the additional 12 volt direct power, so all power is through the power pins of the PCI Express slot. This card runs heavy on the PCI Express slot with 75 watts draw which is the maximum draw for a PCI Express 16x slot. Most video cards which are lighter weight run in the 40-60 watt range. You should be fine with this video card at the maximum wattage as long as the board was manufactured to proper maximum load spec for PCI-E power. https://www.asus.com/support/faq/104406/

I picked up a GTX 1050 just like this one for $120 about a month ago and had to return mine because it doent have analog video support for older monitor with VGA connection with DVI to VGA adapter, then DVI-D are digital, so I returned the card and went back to using my GTX 780. My GTX 780 requires the 12 volt direct power, whereas this GTX 1050 didnt require the additional 12 volt direct power. I wasnt able to test the GTX 1050 SSC 75 watt video card against my GTX 780 which requires the additional 12 volts direct power to see if the GTX 1050 SSC has been CRIPPLED to get its power demands down to the 75 watt PCI-E slot operating power limit. My thoughts are that the GTX 1050 SSC will benchmark lesser than a GTX 1050 with the direct power connection which would be 125 watts or greater, and additional power draw of a same generation and make/model GPU usually means faster performance at the cost of higher electric BILL and more HEAT output. So your GTX 1050 SSC will likely benchmark weaker than other GTX 1050 cards because its a lesser power hungry card.
Have have since got a new power supply 650wThermalTake also after about a hour of gaming my so PC is so hot to the touch that I think it also needs more fans Yup as I said...

Quote

Additionally just verify that the system temps are staying cool and nothing is running HOT. If temps are good and you have a power supply adequate for the power demands then you should be all set.

Spec:
CPU: fx-8350 8 core
Graphics card: gtx 970 4gb
RAM: 8gb
OS: windows 10
I have been having a issue with my CPU that started TWO days ago, it has randomly started to go to temperatures much higher then EVER before. (Around 80-90c). Usually it's at high 60S. So I cleaned my COMPUTER and removed the thermal compound and applied arctic 5 compound and followed all the steps. I turned on my pc and it is still running hot.





my CPU voltage is at 1.344-1.356v. When my computer is in bios it has an average temperature of 58c(CPU). However, when my pc fully starts up my CPU overheats to absurd temperatures like 85c. I checked my processed and my CPU usage is on average about 5-15%


Personally I believe it to be a virus that turns up my voltage on startup. What do you guys think I should do?