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Hi all,

I am planning to buy a used desktop computer to replace my GTX 860m Lenovo y50 70 and here are the specs of the hardware:

- Sapphire Radeon RX 470 GB VR ready.
- Asus P8H61 rev 3.0
- Intel i5 3.2ghz 3470
- Cooler Master Hyper 103
- Crosair vengeance 2x8 gb
- HDD: 1 TB

I have already checked that the GPU can run newest games at 1080p 60 fps but my concern mostly is the how good the motherboard is and if it is possible to upgrade for better graphics CARD or CPU (AMD Ryzen for example). Also the overclockability .

Here are some things to share .
Is that a used custom build for sale?
Is the sale through a company like eBay?
Is the vendor a company or a individual?
Is there any kind of warranty?
What would it cost if you got new parts and built it yourself?

IMHO, used electronics of any kind should either be bought directly from somebody in the same city or else from a store or online service that has some kind of warranty. I would be very careful about any home built desktop.

Whenever I use a local for sale service, I want to go see the item myself and buy it on the spot for CASH.

Otherwise, that sure looks like a great build. The - Asus P8H61 rev 3.0 has ood reviews.
How much do they want for it?
Is this the mobo?

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]From my experience with ITX boards which this appears to be, I'd avoid it for a gaming build. They are cramped for space and I have run into issues with them. When CPU heatsink is added its going to be very close to added video card and the heat from the CPU may heat up the backside of that video card that gets added.


They are better suited for people wanting to make small space saving computers that are just workstations or space saving servers. The other issue is that you have no ther PCI Express shots, just the PCI Express 16x slot and thats all. So your locked in not being able to add anything else.

A bare minimum for a gaming build for motherboard, I would suggest an mATX board which is slightly larger. And it will give you a few more slots for adding cards if needed. It will be less cramped for space and components will breathe better with air space between them.Quote from: Geek-9pm on June 19, 2017, 07:29:58 AM

Here are some things to share .
Is that a used custom build for sale?
Is the sale through a company like eBay?
Is the vendor a company or a individual?
Is there any kind of warranty?
What would it cost if you got new parts and built it yourself?

IMHO, used electronics of any kind should either be bought directly from somebody in the same city or else from a store or online service that has some kind of warranty. I would be very careful about any home built desktop.

Whenever I use a local for sale service, I want to go see the item myself and buy it on the spot for cash.

Otherwise, that sure looks like a great build. The - Asus P8H61 rev 3.0 has ood reviews.
How much do they want for it?
Is this the mobo?

From my experience with ITX boards which this appears to be, I'd avoid it for a gaming build. They are cramped for space and I have run into issues with them. When CPU heatsink is added its going to be very close to added video card and the heat from the CPU may heat up the backside of that video card that gets added.


They are better suited for people wanting to make small space saving computers that are just workstations or space saving servers. The other issue is that you have no ther PCI Express shots, just the PCI Express 16x slot and thats all. So your locked in not being able to add anything else.

A bare minimum for a gaming build for motherboard, I would suggest an mATX board which is slightly larger. And it will give you a few more slots for adding cards if needed. It will be less cramped for space and components will breathe better with air space between them.

The seller lives in a city nearby and I would go there and meet him in case I decided to buy it.

God idea.
I do not think you will need another PCI slot. Most of what you might want can be done with the USB ports. Also this board has a PS/2 port, which might be useful. It also has a printer port and the old serial port, which means you can use some legacy devices with that mono. That board might now be hard to get.. But Intel will continue make CPUs that use that chip-set and socket.

But can I for example upgrade for a better CPU, an I7 6th gen for example?

Intel® Socket 1155 for 2nd Generation Core™ i7/Core™ i5/Core™ i3 Processors
Supports Intel® 32 nm CPU
Supports Intel® Turbo Boost Technology 2.0
* The Intel® Turbo Boost Technology 2.0 support depends on the CPU types.

Is there any software that enhances or tweaks Windows 10's Power Options?

I have my Surface set to "Sleep" when "Lid Closed/On Battery", but it still drains pretty significantly - a few percentage points an hour.

The standard options for Lid Closed/On Battery or "Do Nothing", "Sleep", or "Shut Down". I would LOVE something that was like, "Hibernate - After Ten Minutes of Lid Closed on Battery". So like if I close the lid to throw it in my bag while I board a plane, it doesn't hibernate, but if I don't get to it any time soon, it would...

I don't need a lecture on the poor state of batteries in Windows computers, just an auxiliary management tool if one exists, please.

Thanks in advance!Quote from: rjbinney on April 04, 2017, 10:10:18 AM

The standard options for Lid Closed/On Battery or "Do Nothing", "Sleep", or "Shut Down".

six-gazillion GB file that the hibernate cache takes up.

Does someone know how to overclock an AMD A8 7600??What motherboard do you have. Features in BIOS will DETERMINE. Locked multiplier AMD's I have overclocked by increasing the FSB speed on my RAM such as on an older system I went from 200 Mhz to 220 Mhz for a 10% overclock on a system with DDR 2 800Mhz RAM. I didnt have to adjust VOLTAGES at 10%. But my motherboards BIOS has the ability to overclock. Not all motherboards have this, specially less likely to have this feature if its a name brand system that you bought taht your trying to overclock such as an HP or emachine etc which manufacturers usually remove the overclock features from a board that would support it, and sometimes a BIOS flash can add the functionality back to be able to overclock etc.

This overclock brought a 2.3Ghz CPU to 2.53Ghz increasing my RAM's FSB from 200 to 220. CPU ran about 8 degrees hotter which isnt bad for the 10% performance gain.

How much of an overclock are you looking for. You might be able to get 10% to 15% without messing with voltages, but you have to watch out for heat as a byproduct of pushing it harder, so you will want to keep an eye on CPU temp. On my build 12% was about the maximum I could push my locked multiplier AMD before it started to show signs of struggling and instability, heat was also warmer and so I decided to back down for greater STABILITY vs random blue screens and choppy graphic issues as the CPU was stressing. Back down to 10% where choppy graphics and blue screens weren't going to happen. My CPU was a AMD Athlon 64 x2 4450B 2.3Ghz with 1MB Cache ( Business Class Dual Core CPU ( B = designation) ) and 45 watt TDP. Overclocking it, it consumed more electricity and forced this CPU to operate as if it was a 65 watt TDP CPU. Motherboard also gets stressed through overclocks sometimes such as VRM's (Voltage Regulators ) run hotter for CPU.

Also to mention.... RAM quality will matter too when messing with increasing the FSB. I have gaming matched pair Corsair DDR2 XMS2 sticks with heat spreaders.Motherboard: MSI A7M-35
Ram: Ballistix Sports 4GB DDR3
CPU: AMD A8 7600Motherboard supports overclocking if this model linked here. Is there an E missing in your part number?

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130741

Quote

OC Genie 4 supercharges your speed experience! When used, OC Genie 4 accelerates your entire system and puts it into overdrive! Tuned by the professional overclockers, OC Genie 4 hands you record-breaking performance on a silver plate.

I bought an nvidia gtx 1050 300wat recommended "but my psu doesn't support because hes only 240wat so i have this another psu which is 400wat but don't fit on the pc so i have a funny question if i can give some extra power frim this psu "400wat" with gtx cable and run with two psu 😂

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Its dangerous to do that. I'd suggest getting the correct power supply that can HANDLE all. If you were really good with ELECTRONICS and able to get both power supplies perfectly balanced ( same exact voltage so they are equally balanced ) it could be done, but if not balanced it wouldnt be good... potential smoke show!

Most PC power supplies dont have a POT in them to ADJUST their voltage as well and so you could have one power supply at say 12.2VDC and another at 11.5VDC for the 12Volts you would need for the video card and this would be dangerous with a .7 volt offset wherever part of the COMPUTER is assumed that the 12VDC comes from the same source and now its not from the same source. A tiny trace could then try to carry the current to bring another part of the system up to 12.2VDC where the far end of the circuit is only getting 11.5VDC and you then would burn up a trace possibly.

I suggest doing it right and just getting a heavier power supply that can handle all, as for its dangerous to team them.I predict "blue smoke"...Quote from: patio on April 18, 2017, 08:59:59 AM

I predict "blue smoke"...

I have a laptop HP cq40-115au which is quite nostalgic to me.

I wanted to REVIVE it with a new motherboard if possible.

How/where do I find a suitable one?

Thanks.I'd go with ebay or amazon and EITHER buy a healthy used one or buy parts through there. GIVEN the age of the computer you might find that the cost of a motherboard and BUYING a complete used healthy one might be close to the same price.thanks for your suggestion.

I have a desktop system which is quite old. But it was quite decent to play some of the games infact still now there is not any issues in it.

Recently some of the new games stopped working in my desktop. Tekken 7 for example gave me an error which says "graphics card doesn't meet minimum requirements". I dont have quite a powerful graphics card in my system that may be the reason. But surprisingly the same game worked on my office's desktop which was Dell Optiplex 3040 with no graphics card and i5 processor.

Here is the snap of my system...


Do I need to UPGRADE the graphics card only or the whole system. If possible I would like to spend my whole budget for decent graphics card if upgrading only it can solve the issue...I dont see your system specs or a snapshot of system. Knowing model number and make of computer works as well instead of a snapshot if you know that.

So what is the system specs of computer info of the system that your thinking about upgrading?

Your office computer the Optiplex with the Core i5 is able to handle games because the Integrated Intel HD Graphics are actually not that bad. The Intel HD Graphics can make games playable, but depending on the game they will either play well or play ok, or crawl with low frame rate. The error message your getting is that the game tests the hardware before it runs and due to GPU being to old it will abort and give up this message. The good thing is that most DESKTOPS have a PCI Express slot available to add a video card. The video card to add depends on if its a small form factor type of computer or small tower where card dimensions might be an issue was well as what you have for a power supply and what type of card you want to add to just be able to play the games or do you want the higher end performance such as from a nVidia GTX GPU card where you might have to also upgrade the power supply to handle the heavier load of the system. Lastly some games are GPU intensive, but happy with 1 or 2 cores of a CPU.

Are there any other games other than Tekken 7 that dont play that you would like to play?

As well as any games your considering buying in the future to where we need to make sure you dont under upgrade your system and end up having to yet again upgrade further and waste money?

Also what is your budget and we can suggest hardware if you like?You cannot simply compare a Core2Duo to an i5 and expect similar results...Period.I agree with Patio that thats a drastic difference

If your lucky you might be able to upgrade to a quadcore but still its dated performance of a Core 2 Quad VS a MODERN Quadcore. I think your looking at new MB and GPU with this. Although for $15 I have see on ebay Core 2 Quad Q6600 2.4Ghz socket 775 CPUs and bought 5 myself to upgrade older duel cores to quads. Some boards I FOUND out dont support quadcore so I have 2 extras now.That being stated i wouldn't spend a thin dime on your current rig...

I have a old Packard Bell UTOW-SUN. I wanna know how to replace or remove the dvd reader??? Can someone help me because i cant find how to. According to picture I see here at this link it looks like a standard CASE with a faceplate that had spring loaded doors.


http://computeuk.co.uk/shop/Packard-Bell-UTOWSUN


Step 1 would be to remove power cord from system.
Step 2 would be to remove side cover
Step 3 would be to locate the front face PLATE locking tabs... you will need to get the faceplate to pop off the front of the case. It might have tabs that hinge pivoting or it might require undoing multiple plastic tabs carefully for the face plate to pop off. Be careful as these snap and break easily. They might be labelled with an arrow as to which way to move them to unlock them. They grab into the steel case facing locking them in. They need to be bent one way or the other to unlock them. But too much force breaks them.
Step 4 would be with face plate off, remove the IDE or SATA cable and power cables from rear of the drive inside the case.
Step 5 would be to remove the screws that MOUTH this drive. Some cases have 2 on the exposed side with a track on opposing side, other cases have 4 screws 2 on each side and require the other side panel to also be removed to get to them.
Step 6 pull carefully on the DVD drive from front of computer and pull it towards you when you know all cables have been detached.

If its an IDE drive and your putting in another IDE drive then you will want to match the Master, Slave, or CS ( Cable Select ) JUMPER settings on the rear of the drive. If its SATA its even easier you just simply plug into the drive with sata power and communication cable. IDE is a wide ribbon cable and SATA is a narrow cable about 3/8" wide.

Once drive is mounted inside add screws to hold it in place. Then connect power and communication cable for IDE or SATA. Add face plate which should snap back into place. Add side covers. Add power cord and BOOT it and it should work.Quote

Step 4 would be with face plate off, remove the IDE or SATA cable and power cables from rear of the drive inside the case.

So, my computer crashes during the summer time under heavy load. It'll stutter with audio and video some times, and crash at others. When it crashes, the the IO will stay stuck if it was pegged, the monitor will freeze, and my RGB keyboard will freeze. It doesn't write to the event viewer. I've got 3 3000rpm noctua fans for airflow, a cooler master closed loop cpu cooler for my fx-9590, and a 980ti. My CPU stays around 50-60c however, under load my gpu gets to about 75c max. I've got an EVGA SuperNOVA 750 watt B2 80+ PSU with the PC part picker rated at about ~580 watts. Any insights as to why I get these crashes? I can get whatever info you NEED to help troubleshoot. Thanks!

Specs:
CPU: AMD FX 9590
Cooler: Corsair - H60
Mobo: Asus - Crosshair V Formula Z
Ram: HyperX Fury Black DDR3 1866 2x8
SSD: 850 EVO 500GB
Graphics Card: EVGA GTX 980Ti Superclocked ACX 2.0+
PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA Nex 750w 80+ BronzeHave you tested your RAM with memtest86?


Although you refer to (summer time under heavy load ) as if its a thermal condition only that causes this.... does it run normal when cold and then only act up when hot? If so then something is running too hot perhaps the bridge controller on the motherboard etc.

Also if you have any overclocking going on... undo your overclocks and see if it behaves at normal clock etc. Also if over voltaging any components intentionally undo that as well. *That should be part of undoing an overclock if you are pushing for a heavy overclock which involved boosting RAM voltage by a few tenths of a volt which will make them ( RAM Sticks ) run warmer.

Cound RAM sticks themselves be cooking. I had a computer a ways back with Gaming Quality OCZ 400Mhz DDR that would act up only when the inside air of the case was really warm. To the touch my RAM sticks were roasting hot and the OCZ heat spreaders giving off their own heat plus inside of the case DIDNT help any in trying to passively get rid of heat. My fix was to add a 80mm fan blowing across my RAM inside the case suspended like a spider web with zip ties to proper placement and verifying that the fan wouldnt be smothered by the side panel. My voltages I didnt mess with and I think OCZ may have been using 333Mhz rated chips at a forced to 400Mhz overclock selling them as 400Mhz Gaming RAM since they passed testing at 400Mhz and that may have been why they were running hot. I ended up putting value RAM into it eventually and those sticks ran cool and no heat spreaders. And the funny thing is going from 1GB of DDR 400 ( 512MB x 2 ) of Gaming RAM to 2GB of DDR 400 ( 1GB x 2 ) Value RAM I saw no PERFORMANCE loss, but now had more RAM for gaming and the sticks stayed cool so I was able to remove the spider web like suspended 80mm fan inside the case over the RAM.


Have you tried running the system with side panel off and see if it no longer acts up. If this is the fix then you need better airflow inside your case. Thanks for the input. I used Prime95 to stress test the ram. Turns out its the CPU. I've gotten a new one on amazon that'll be here Monday. I'll see if that helps. I'll post the update when I get it installed.Quote from: watergard on June 16, 2017, 09:39:10 PM

Thanks for the input. I used Prime95 to stress test the ram. Turns out its the CPU. I've gotten a new one on amazon that'll be here Monday. I'll see if that helps. I'll post the update when I get it installed.

I'll take eggs over easy and bacon...

I have Windows 10 Home laptop and a wireless MK320 Logitech keyboard and a wireless M310 Logitech mouse. EVERY TIME I would boot up I would have to go to settings and change the mouse to the RIGHT Button for a Left handed use. Now, for the past few days the button will change itself back to Left without having been shut down. I do not have this problem with the wireless Logitech mouse I use with my Desk top computer. I have downloaded SetPoint from Logitech so I assume that should have been all I needed, but apparently not. Has anyone out there had the same problem and what did you do to correct it? Thank you...........Might be a compatibility issue with 10 and setpoint. There is an article HEAR for prior OS versions with settings.

http://support.logitech.com/en_nz/article/17904?product=a0qi0000006BdAUAA0Thank you, Dave, for your input. When I get my Win 10 back from having the Memory upgraded I will look into this suggestion. Cool and sorry it took 10 days for an answer.

I decided to look though in different categories and FOUND it lost with no response. The "Show Unread Posts Since Last Visit" and "Replies To Your Posts" is what I mainly use here and it sometimes causes help requests to fall through the cracks for me. So I occasionally look in different categories such as Hardware and look for ( 0 ) responses and then check to see why it hasnt been answered etc.

Good Deal... Happened to be at the right place at the right time, and you looked it up first to make sure you werent buying a lemon.

I made the mistake buying an open box computer from staples at 27% discount on a $999 computer and I was told if I had any problems with it that its as-is and Id be dealing with HP for warranty. I requested that we boot it up right there and they did. It ran fine although had the original owners name at auto logon of XP. I grabbed it up because the Pentium 4 systems at the time were costly and I thought I was getting a great deal. Got it home and went to add my video card to it and .... NO AGP SLOT .... NOOOOooooooooooooooo! I needed it for gaming and a PCI video card wasnt going to cut it. The motherboard even had a place for an AGP Slot to be on the board but they skimped on the cost of the motherboard and must have ordered the motherboards to not come with AGP slots as a way to squeeze out a few dollars more profit out of each SALE. This wasnt exactly an issue that HP Warranty would cover, and so I ended up finding a person at my work that was willing to give me $400 for it that wasnt a gamer and they were happy to save $600 on the cost of a new computer, took that $400 and went to Radio Shack and got a AMD Athlon XP 2800+ Compaq Presario S6030NX tower without display for $549. At Radio Shack I requested to take side PANEL off the demo unit before purchase to make sure it had an AGP Slot and it did. So I ended up paying in the end about $1040 for a gaming system and not getting the Pentium 4 but Athlon XP instead because of my failure to verify features before MAKING my purchase. Looking back, I probably should have done a motherboard SWAP to a motherboard that had a AGP Slot, but then I would have ran into issues with the System Recovery Discs not working for the build because of a different motherboard. I would have needed someones copy of XP to install from and then use my XP Home key to activate. I might have saved myself money this way and had a Pentium 4 vs Athlon XP. But the Athlon XP 2800+ 2.08Ghz played games fine even though just a single core back in 2004.

The original owner probably returned it to get a system that had a AGP slot for gaming is my guess as for it was otherwise a good computer, and they had a game installed to it before I did factory system recovery clean install that wouldnt run on the integrated Intel 845 GL GPU compaining that it wanted a GeForce 2 or better with 64MB Video RAM. They probably fell victim to the same failure to check for AGP slot first and get rid of it before they were stuck with it. Then I came along and got stuck with it making the same mistake. Staples probably knew it didnt have this AGP slot too in the original owners complaint on return. So they wanted to move it fast before they take a serious loss. Just recently, Staples Inc sold off their 106 UK retail stores after their merger with Office Depot was blocked by regulators.They have abandoned Europe. I was kind of sad to see them go. I have had 2 PRINTERS, a monitor, and countless pen drives from them.

Thanx for the compliment...welcome to my ignore list.

Hello & thank you for looking at my problem.

My Dell laptop has a problem with video stalling??? Then I move the mouse & the video starts again for a short while & stops again. It has been doing this for a very long time. ( Over 2 years actually).
Even when I open a new window, the graphics are slow to load & freezes until I move the mouse continually to speed things up.
It has a lot of stalls & freezes that RESTARTS any loading of data when the mouse is moved.
It is an old unit now but its all I have that is somewhat reliable.

This system is Dell inspiron 1545, Intel Core 2 Duo T6500, 3 GB RAM, 32 bit O/S, Windows Vista Home Premium SP2.

I have tried the Dell website & gone through their system diagnosis reports with no joy. Everything they tested was OK.
I did at one stage find there was a report of a mouse driver problem for Dell units & followed that up as best I could. Again.. No real joy.

I ran WinDirStat & saw that the drive was very full, so I transferred 1/4 of the drive ( about 90 odd GB ) to another drive thinking it might just be to much for the Dell drive to cope with. All this with no improvements.

Can someone please help diagnose what the problem might be & give me some insights as to what I might be able to do to fix it.

Many thanks IMNOGURU Here is something to think about.
Backup.
Backup is not just about having a copy of the software.
You may want to have a backup of all the hardware.

You might have failing hardware. No amount of driver installs will fix it.

The Dell laptop yu have is a 15 inch laptop and has the Pentium Dual Core.
Many of these on for sale on eBay for under $200 and most vendors have some kind of warranty policy. And with legal OEM copy of Windows 7,which is still supported fully by Microsoft.
Look for:
Dell Inspiron 1545 15 inch Laptop Intel Pentium Dual Core Windows 7.

So, maybe it is time for a replacement.
The advantage of buying duplicate unit is then you a have spare parts.
EDIT: That model is also on Amazon by vendors.Running a speed test via speedtest.net might be worth doing as a troubleshooting step. Would be good to know whether your internet speed from your ISP is a factor in this problem. Is it the original HDD ? ?Thank you for your input Geek-9pm.
I certainly have a few backups on alternate hard drives & can see where your going with the potential of failing hardware, something that I seriously considered myself given the age of the laptop. It was the very reason I have done all the Dell diagnosis tests.

Replacement is a preferred option, however if I had ANY money I wouldnt hesitate buying a new/secondhand unit. Unfortunately $$$ is a decisive problem.

I have run MULTIPLE speed tests soybean, but Im in Australia & I think we are rated at somewhere lower than Lithuania for internet speeds. Remember the little blue bar to show progress with dialup modems, well thats about the level of my ADSL 2+ speeds right now. Even with our upgrading to the governments "fraudband" ( in maybe 3 to 5 years ) I dont expect to view any movies via internet connections any time soon.

The hard drive is original patio. I ran WinDirStat, to find out if it was too full to allocate data to the free space & as I said, I removed about 25% hoping that might help.

I do believe that failing hardware is the highest potential, maybe the video card? or motherboard issues, mainly because the computer responds to mouse movement or the mousepad touch.

I do have a replacement drive I think may be suitable if the connections & size etc. are compatible.

Do you think I should change the original out for that one, to test if there is a change in performance?

If I do swap it out will that cause any recognition problems?

It seems I could open a big can of worms going down that path.

Thank you for your replies. ImnoGuru.Quote

FraudBand

My Kingston usb pen drive is no longer detected on my LAPTOP, I have also try it on my friends laptops and DESKTOP still not detected, what could be the problem?.USB drives, like all other hardware, have limited life spans. Apparently yours reached the END of its existence. If you are so inclined, you may wish to say a few words over it before giving it a final resting place.Of possible INTEREST....
http://www.kingston.com/us/company/warranty
Kingston Limited Warranty Statement
Complete information regarding Kingston's warranties is listed below. You can jump directly to the section you want more quickly by selecting the topic you need from the list below:
Duration of Warranty
Free Technical Support
Warranty Claim PROCEDURES and Requirements
DISCLAIMERS

Some Kingston devices have a five-year warranty.

Some months ago I started noticing an issue, at certain times when the PC was under load, the mouse would start lagging briefly, for example when I would open Chrome. Sometimes I would get a brief stutter when playing Overwatch. The issue was never serious ENOUGH for me to investigate. Since that time I have made a fresh install of Windows 10.

Today I bought and tried playing the new Playerunknown's Battlegrounds. I suspect that this game is putting a cpu/memory stress on my computer that I haven't encountered before, and the mouse stutter is so severe the game is unplayable. I started investigating the issue.

Using an app to stress-test my computer, the CPU and the MEMORY stress tests are producing mouse stuttering that you can see in this video.

Since I was planning to upgrade my RAM, I went and bought a new kit of 2x 8GB Kingston memory (was 2x 4GB before), so I could safely RULE out any problems with my memory.

This is my configuration:

OS: Windows 10
Motherboard: MSI Gaming z170i
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500
GPU: MSI GTX 960 Gaming 2G
RAM: 16GB Kingston HyperX DDR4 2666 Mhz
HDD: SSD Kingston HyperX FURY 240GB (60 GB free)
PSU: Corsair VS550
Mouse: Logitech G403

System is well cooled and temperatures are good. My dxdiag file

Things I have tried:

• Tried all the different USB ports, the 2.0, 3.1, FRONT panel
• All drivers are up-to-date
• Logitech mouse utility INSTALLED and up-to-date. Mouse firmware up-to-date.
• Tried a selective boot with only windows services
• Tried a different mouse

Suddently the left side of my LG 23EA63 turn redish. Also if i open a game or a new window i see an imprint of the previous window.
I have included an image . Does anyone know what this is? can it be fixed or i need a new MONITOR?


[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Try a different monitor. If you dont have another monitor maybe your TV has a VGA or HDMI input to connect your computer to the TV to see if it acts the same. If it acts the same then its artifacts and its most likely caused by a failing GPU ( video card ). If its integrated video that is doing this then you can add a video card. If its a video card, then replacement of the video card should fix this. If its the monitor then you will need to get a new monitor its either a burned screen from prolonged use without screen change or refresh issue. If the monitor is new and still under warranty send it back for replacement. If the computer is still under warranty use the warranty if available to save money. Lastly it can also be cause on the rare occasion by shared memory with a RAM stick that isnt quite right. But its usually the GPU or a Monitor refresh or burned screen issue.I have changed the monitor and placed 2 different. One LG 34 INCH and one Samsung 22 inch, they work perfectly! so the issue is with the monitor! So it is not a Graphic Card Issue.
I guess i need a new monitor correct?Yepper...

Fortunately these days it's cheaper than a new vid card...count your blessings.yes that's for SURE. my graphic card is the 1080 nvidia by evga. But does any one know what caused this issue? I am in computer for more than 25 years and I have never seen such an issue. what makes it worse is that once per 2-3 days it fixes itself for as long as I have the PC on and the monitor on screensaver. but if I will turn the monitor off then it is brought back. A component on the LCD Controller board likely went bad; a Capacitor, Integrated circuit, etc.


Quote

A component on the LCD Controller board likely went bad; a Capacitor, Integrated circuit, etc.

The old computer in one of my prevoius threads, I managed to get it working by simply replacing the old PSU with mine, from the R7 240 computer. I discovered that the mechanic that I used to give the computers to repair them, it did anorher stupid mistake: the drivers, the software installed and the partitioning were totally crap. So, I reinstalled the OS. I installed everything I needed and it runs well, but, the nonsense part, Need for Speed Porsche 2000 is running worse than on Intel GMA Family Chipset and IT DOESN'T SUPPORT VISUAL TREATMENT IN NFSMW Even the integraded Northbridge Chipset might run these games better!? And those 2 idiotic problems never occured. The GPU is in the title of the thread, CPU: Sempron 1700+ 1.5 GHz, 512 MB RAM 400MHz DDR2. Drivers are as up to date as possible.Geforce 4MX is from 2002. It should run Porsche Unleashed well, as long as you configure it properly with 3DSetup (rather then the default software renderer) and likely not more than 800x600 resolution. The card predates the original Most Wanted by nearly 3 years. It meets the minimum requirements, but the recommended requirements for the game are a Geforce 6200+ or an ATI Radeon 9800+. "Visual Treatment" requires a DX9 card; the 4MX is a DX 8.1 card.


It worked before! NFS Porsche Unleashed worked perfectly, without 3D setup, on 1360x768. Most Wanted worked on almost maximum setting, in 25->45 FPS. As I said, I have the latest drivers, which add the DX9 full support, even tried to roll back to the old drivers. But something is true, I didn't update the DirectX version. Could this cause the problems?Don't just dump me like in the previous threads.A Thousand pardons- I replied initially only because I did not take notice of your username. Perhaps somebody else enjoys talking to a wall.





Watch YouTube videos and you'll see that they have Visual Treatment on MX4000And tell me, when did I act like a wall?Quote

And tell me, when did I act like a wall?

if talking to someone is like talking to a brick wall, the person you are speaking to does not listen

Don't just dump me like in the previous threads.

I recently bought a used water cooled ASUS P5Q3 Deluxe board and it seems to have issues powering on. Once he board recives power for the first time and it turned on the fans Spin up but I don't get any display, after turning it off and back on it resets after a second of power, then the fans spin up with constant power but still nothing on screen, so I began the process of elimination. removing the accessories and clearing CMOS, then the gpu and then trying pairs and individual ram sticks in various sockets as well as other kinds of ram sticks, tested the PSU on similar boards and it works just FINE and even reseating the BIOS chip. the only different response i get is when all the sticks are removed giving me the beep code telling me there's no ram installed on the board. I've swapped cpu's and gpu's but with no difference. So I'm pretty stuck as to why I can't get a post out of this board. Currently breadboxed and air cooled for now, I just HOPE it isn't a dead board that I'm dealing with
Hope to hear something soon!

Specs
MB: ASUS P5Q3 Deluxe WiFi-AP @n
CPU: Intel Core 2 Quad Q9550
RAM: 4x4GB (16GB) Corsair Vengance Pro DDR3 1600 1.5v
GPU: Gigabyte GTX 560
PSU: Ultra LSP 550W v2 Pro

Other hardware used test components
MB: ASUS P5Q Pro, ASUS P5QPL-VM EPU
CPU: Intel Core 2 Quad Q9400, Intel Core 2 Duo E7400
RAM: Kingston HyperX Blu 2x8GB (16GB)
GPU: Gigabyte GT 440

Id try using another KNOWN healthy power supply. Additionally make sure this system didnt have any of the liquid coolant leaking onto the board anywhere. The earlier or cheaper liquid cooling kits sometimes leaked and killed boards. So Look at legs to chips etc for corrosion or oxide which WOULD point out that it got wet and damaged. Hopefully your just in need of a new power supply.Unfortunately I don't have another PSU to test this board with but I have used the same PSU on many other boards and it has worked just fine, inducing TESTING out the PSU on the boards in the additional hardware list as well. As for leaks I don't see any apparent corrosion around the board or any signs that water had come into contact with the board as well. Could the memory I've tried not be compatible with this board? I've checked the manual and it looks like it falls into the supported requirements, this board unable to accept any speed higher than 1600 rated at 1.5v and each dimm slot only able to hold a max of 4gb each totalling to 16gb max total on this board. I bought the Corsair ram just the other day seeing it fell into the compatible requirements since the HyperX ram maxed out the dimm slots capacity.The MBoard Manual has a QVL list....that list means the RAM was actually lab-tested on that MBoard and approved...Well it looks like I've got some returns to do..sighThat needs to be added to your R's list... I'll get right on that! Adding in Research. Though I guess it does fall under replace in some form haha, now to track down compatible ram..Crucial may swap it if they have a Model # on the ASUS list....worth askin'

Hello,
I have an old DELL Optilex GX520. I replaced the HDD with an SDD and I saw on the motherboard a PCI slot (the slot on the picture). Because it has an on board graphics card 256MB, can I install a better graphics card with higher memory on the PCI slot. Also, after a searching on the internet I couldn't find a low profile PCI graphics card and I found only PCI-E. Sorry if I have WRITE something wrong (I am not professional PC technician).





[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Yes, but wait a bit and I will find or make a photo...
Yes, however, Finding not only a PCI Graphics card, but one that is low-profile is going to be the PART that gives you trouble.

PCI graphics cards have not been manufactured for a number of years.

I found some on NewEgg, but this is the only one that seems to fit the bill entirely (and is in stock):

9400GT

Additionally, you can also search for specific models on eBay. the 9400 looks to go for about $70 USED there for example.
OK, I am back Found an old photo of my old Gx-520 motherboard.

Notice they left out something. Missing is another connector that is the one you need.
I think the missing connector is the one you should have. There are just too many kinds of 'PCI' connections that it can drive you crazy.
From a google search:
https://www.google.com/search?q=images+of+the4+PCI+connector+on+a+motherboard&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjuuqOPi63UAhUV52MKHacbDtgQ7AkIPw&biw=907&bih=393#imgrc=oLeduTJUSaBH-M:
Click on the above to see a collection of slots that are found on motherboards. Some are called 'PCI' something.

I do not mean to discourage you, but be prepared to get a card that is not right for your board. Best be is to find a local expert that can show you some cards that MIGHT fit. OEM motherboards had different SKU's/releases, as Dell allowed customers (or retailers) to customize the systems. Chips, sockets, and pin headers are often removed or absent in some versions and available in others, based on how the system was originally ordered.

In this CASE I've found at least 4 different arrangements.

The lengthened PCI slot is a Riser slot, for installing a Riser card to install up to three PCI Cards in. It can also be used as a "Normal" PCI Slot.

There is a model of the motherboard which has only a single PCI Slot. This is the model the OP appears to have.

One PCI Slot - (notice the missing Riser slot)

Another model has two PCI slots:

Two PCI Slots

Another model, the one in your image, Geek, has one PCI Slot and one PCI Riser slot.
PCI Slot and Riser Slot

The highest end model has the PCI Slot, the Riser Slot, and an AGP slot.
PCI Slot, Riser Slot, and AGP Slot

As the OP only has a PCI slot, a PCI card is effectively their only option, and it must also be low profile.

Quote from: pkarsh on April 05, 2017, 07:46:12 PM

I actually "stumbled" into it while I was LOOKING for the way to boot in Safe mode. I shut the SYSTEM down with the power button and then restarted it. It bootee normally. Should I proceed with patio's suggestion to install all available driver updates?

I guess I messed up.

When I turn on my laptop. I get the following message.

Your battery is TEMPORARILY disabled. Please turn off your computer and try again when the unit is back to the operating temperature.

Strike the F1 key to continue , F2 to set up the utility.

I opt for the first option as I not SURE about the second.

Kindly help.
That ALERT means your laptop battery has overheated. You have to wait untill the batery is at a safe temperature. n rare casis so9me baterys have vurst into flames.

What model is your laptop computer?
Did you have this problem before? When?
If this computer is under ayear old, contact the maker RIGHT away.Dell

This started from yesterday.

It is about 4years old
Laptop batteries seldom last more than 4 years
It may be time to replace taht battery.
Quote

... This varies depending on your usage, of course, but the average laptop battery is good for around 400 RECHARGES (a.k.a. cycles). After that, it starts to lose its capacity to hold a charge. That's why the battery that once gave you, say, 3-4 hours' worth of runtime now peters out after just 1-2 hours ...

So I was looking up specs on my older gaming system and what caught my eye was that it claimed that the internal memory controller is 667Mhz. Does the memory controller have its own clock independent from the FSB clock which is 800Mhz on my system ( similar to how a video card would have its own 702Mhz internal clock for the GPU, yet the GPU works with the CPU ), or is the 800Mhz DDR2 reporting as 800Mhz with CPU-Z because its 800Mhz RAM sticks in a board that supports 800Mhz DDR2, but the memory controller is bottlenecking the system to a 667Mhz FSB?

*The clock setting on the BIOS shows 200Mhz with a 13x multiplier and its running at 2600Mhz. For years I thought that the RAM that is 800Mhz was running at 800Mhz and not 667Mhz as for the internal memory controller supports DDR2 and DDR3. For a short period I ran this CPU on a newer socket AM3+ board until my FX-8350 8-core 4.0Ghz was PURCHASED and that was with 1333Mhz DDR3, but then upgraded to 1600Mhz for the 8-core FX-8350 to 16GB 1600Mhz DDR3 RAM from 8GB of DDR3 1333Mhz. Then when the FX-8350 arrived the quadcore Athlon II x4 620 went back into the old socket AM2+ motherboard that it originally came out of.

Quote

667 MHz Memory controller
One 2000 MHz 16-bit HyperTransport link

I would expect the Memory controller to be the FSB speed because (at least as far as I thought) the memory controller effectively is The front-side bus.

I got this unit, from a Radio Station that I think upgraded to N in PLACE of this G Unit. I DONE a restart on it so that I could configure it to my settings. However, I can not access it for some REASON spite given it the default IP that it's supposed to have. I tried both forms of connecting to it an doesn't see it when I RUN IPCONFIG.

LinkSys WAP54G

Hi guys..

I'm hoping someone could help me please,

Just built my first top end computer.. Got everything up and running fine... but for some reason my computer will do a hard freeze every so 5mins or so when I turn the computer on, I have to reset the computer every time. I've fixed this temporally by using this command center app to INCREASE my Dram voltage. But I have to do this everytime I turn my computer on. Is there a permanent fix or something? What could possibly be causing this?

PC Build:(Edit: Sorry this says my graphics card is the RX 480, but I upgraded to the 580 now)

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/Chammiez/saved/dDRK8d

running Windows 10 pro x64

Command Centre screenshots:


https://puu.sh/wdiXa/ecccda8fe8.png
https://puu.sh/wdiXZ/99c10e669c.png
https://puu.sh/wdiYF/1f4296cc3a.png
https://puu.sh/wdiZD/7e2c401cf0.png
https://puu.sh/wdj1j/8d313a26fd.png
https://puu.sh/wdj1S/c7c4e7da96.png (system fan 2 has no info for some reason, but is spinning perfectly fine inside the machine so unsure about this)


Built this last month or so... and my cooler started leaking a week after I built it and it destroyed my graphics card... but before that it was doing the same thing.. locking up every few minutes unless I increased my dram voltage... I got a replacement cooler and graphics card ( got the same cooler but I got the upgraded graphics card, went from RX 480 to the RX 580) so I don't understand why it's locking up.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.


Regards


Cham.It's likely the leak did some damage to the MBoard.

Any bulging caps or discolored slots ? ?Nah sorry should of been more specific, it was doing this the moment I first turned it all on, it only started leaking when I was messing with the other VOLTAGES... ( didn't really know what I was doing, but thought everything was under warranty, so I'll mess with it and try and fix it...) now I've LEARNT not to mess with things I don't understand... lol?

there's no miss color on the motherboard..

https://puu.sh/wdk3U/187c298cdb.png


Everything seems okay as you can see? I think?There's no reason to mess with voltages on a new build...if you have to do this to GET it running then i suspect you have the wrong RAM for that MBoard...

All manuf. publish a QVL list for recommended RAM....i'd look yours up and see.From what I'm able to find, The VRMs on that Motherboard are allegedly not capable of sustaining the full power required for that CPU. (9000-series FX chips). Could be related. I f ound several other users who had the same problem and in each case they "solved" the issue only when replacing the motherboard.

I don't know why increasing DRAM voltage would prevent problems, though. I also notice that the motherboard does not SUPPORT DDR3 2400, don't know if that would be related.Thanks for the responses,

I'll try looking into the QVL for the motherboard and see if the ram is the issue..

as for the motherboard not being able to sustain that amount of power,being pretty new to comp building, I just used pcpartpicker, and assumed it would all be okay just using their compatibility check.. was I wrong to use this?

Everything works smoothly on this computer even when gaming it runs perfectly, no problems at all with the exception of the freeze issue, until I fix that by increasing the dram voltage.. so I don't really understand. PCPartpicker is far from flawless...

Take what they say with a grain of salt.

The QVL list is the most reliable way to select proper RAM...for any board.I'll keep that in mind for future reference thank you.


I found this:

https://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-2400c10d-16gtx


Which says that they test their Ram with 1.65v, which with mine it defaults to 1.5, and I fix it by increasing it to 1.65 without even knowing about that. So maybe that is just the issue alone? Quote

The QVL list is the most reliable way to select proper RAM...for any board.

I don't know if what I am trying to ACCOMPLISH is EVEN possible? I bought an OLD Toshiba 5.25"/360KB FDD off Amazon. It has a 34-pin connector port on the PCB edge, with a notch after the first 4 pins. And there is a 4-pin power connector. I have a ton of old floppy disks from the 80s (college) that have some files that I WOULD like to recover. (Probably should have done this 20 years ago when these drives were still supported). I can't seem to find any data cables that will connect to the 34-pin FDD.

I did find this contraption:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/34pin-floppy-connecter-to-USB-adapter-cable-34-pin-/232304540332?hash=item36166dfaac:g:egEAAOSwkl5Xc1oi
but I think it may only work for a 3.5" FDD?

Even if I find a connector/cable to link to say a USB, so I can plug it into my HP laptop, I don't know if they will even be able to talk to each other. I suspect I just bought an $80 paperweight!

Thanks!

Tim B.
I've looked into this before and NEVER found something that definitely supports 5.25" drives that doesn't cost an absolute fortune. Your best bet may be looking into getting a cheap/free old machine with an onboard floppy port where the BIOS allows you to set it to support a 360k drive.The other option would be a data recovery service...

I would check pricing 1st though...Thanks! I just found this:
http://www.deviceside.com/fc5025.html
It appears to only work with 1.2MB 5.25" drives. Basically a FDD controller with a USB interface! Now I need to buy a 1.2MB FDD which should also read my 360KB disks. If I can't find a cheap used working PC with a 5.25 AND a 3.5" FDD.

So, now my tablet keeps shutting off. I'll be on the internet and all of a sudden it's shuts off and I have to turn it on again. I don't know what it could be. I do have a lot of windows OPEN, can that be it? Also, I've BOOKMARKED a lot of STUFF, could that be it?You have answere your own question.
Android tablests so not behave well when overloaded.
What do you MEAN by book MARK? A simple bookmark takes very little memory. But a open Windows does take a largert ammount of memory.
Ok, I will try shutting some windows.If it still has self-shutdown behaviour, pleae come back and tell.
Yes, it's still shutting down but not as bad.

I feel like such a fool! Got the system 2 years ago. For a few months now my CPU temp has been about 50-55 C at idle, and if I do anything like video encoding in Handbrake it would try for 100 C unless I throttled by running Tthrottle with a rule "Throttle when CPU is over 80", and set the minimum CPU to 20%. That way I got a temp GRAPH like a sideways view of a saw blade, with the temp cycling between around 70 and 90. I read around the web "these CPUs run hot" and "stock cooler is junk" etc. Well, today I took the side off my case and wouldn't you know it, the heatsink was caked with dust. I got the vacuum cleaner out, and holding the fan stopped with my finger, sucked it all out. Now it's idling at 37 and when I encode, it flattens out at around 68. Like I said, I feel like a fool. Even running Prime95 it doesn't go over 80.
We've been doin this so long many times we forget the basics...i for 1 am guilty...Today I was rearranging a bunch of stuff and DISCOVERED that my home server rack (because of course all normal people have those!) was getting a bit hot. I then noticed a bunch of almost clumps of dust sitting on top of various bits of kit which looked strange. I have a fan in the top of the rack to extract hot air, turns out that the grille that the fan blows air through had been totally clogged up with dust and what seems to have happened is that the dust that was collecting was DROPPING off and landing on other kit. I then took my server out to find a ridiculous amount of dust bunnies sitting all around the inside, it MUST have been sucking in all the dust that was collecting around the rack (probably not helped by the fact the machine has a pair of 120mm intake fans but no exhaust so any dust that got sucked in would get trapped).

Thankfully there were no thermal/overheating issues other than "hmm, feels a bit hotter in here than it used to" and since cleaning it out everything seems fine. What probably doesn't help is that the front and rear of the rack are completely enclosed (metal at the rear, glass on the front) so the only air intake is a grille on the bottom that sucks directly off of the carpet, should probably look into getting some sort of filter to cover that.

I should probably set a calendar reminder for every few months to remind me to clean stuff like this, it's all to easy to just forget about it, in particular my servers and stuff which just sit in a corner running (and probably gather more dust than my desktop since they run 24/7 whereas my desktop runs for far less time.

On the same topic, I recently bought one of those mains powered air blowers, makes such a difference. Cleaning the whole server out took literally 30 second to make it look good as new.Quote from: camerongray on June 04, 2017, 09:55:05 AM

the only air intake is a grille on the bottom that sucks directly off of the carpet, should probably look into getting some sort of filter to cover that.

Ouch....how were you able to get rid of the plastic ? ?

Hi!
I've been having a dreadful issue where my computer won't start up at all. the fans and drive will all start up, but nothing else happens. No beep, no BIOS, no WINDOWS. I've tried discharging, removing the battery, changing CPU cooler, removing ram, unplugging all power supply cables and everything. Still nothing. And nothing comes up.
Can anyone help out?How old is you laptop?
Are you the first owner?
When did you last have it serviced or repaired?
Have you or anybody made RECENT CHANGES?
Please give make and model. It's not a laptop. It's a custom built PC. Built it a little over a year ago.I thought you meant laptop because you said battery.
Look at the keyboard lights. When you apply power, do they light up?
Does the mouse have a LED and does it come on?
What is the make and model of the motherboard?
Does the monitor indicate any kind of signal present?
Quote from: Geek-9pm on April 30, 2017, 11:09:57 PM

I thought you meant laptop because you said battery.

Would this pc be able to run AAA games at good settings, additionally could i run CSGO or LOL at high settings with good fps. Thankyou

Processor: AMD A10-7890K Black Edition CPU, 4 Cores, 4.1 - 4.3GHz
Graphics CARD: Integrated Radeon R7 Graphics
Case Lighting: RED LED Case Lighting
CPU Cooler: AMD Quiet 95W Stock CPU Cooler
Case Cooling: Corsair ML120 Magnetic Levitation Fan - Twin Pack (Replaces 2 existing case fans)
Motherboard: MSI A68HM GRENADE Motherboard
Memory: 16GB DDR3 1600MHz Memory (2 x 8GB Sticks)
Hard Drive: Seagate 1TB FireCuda SSHD Hybrid Drive
Power Supply: Aerocool 80 PLUS 500W PSUI have yet to see Integrated Graphics run high settings with good fps unless its a really old game ETC. Id look into a video card for this build and AVOID use of integrated video for gaming.

Can someone please HELP me?
I have a MSI Motherboard V-Class desktop and it freezes at the startup MSI LOGO, everything works fine except these: Keyboard lights when I press power button but no lights up after 1 second.
Screen showing MSI logo with me scratch colour lines on it.
CPU's light under power button just lights up for 1 sec.

I had tried the reset CMOS method and UNPLUGGED all USB stuff, still cannot solve the problem, help.

[attachment deleted by admin to CONSERVE space]

Just what to know what these slots are for on this PC. Sorry if this is the wrong place to post this.



This is at the front of computer

[attachment deleted by ADMIN to conserve space]Removable Drive bays they appear to be. So that Hard Drives can be added or removed easily or on the fly with hot swap drives. So this is likely a SERVER type system. As Dave says they are hard drive trays, not hot swap like on a server though (those would generally be on the outside of the case). They are just brackets that make it easy to mount the drives often without needing screws, you slide the bracket out, clip it onto the drive then slide the drive back into the case where it will clip in place. These are fairy common on high end cases.Thanks for correcting camerongray ... quick look at this PIC yesterday and distracted at same time, I originally saw these at the front of a case. Today looking closer this is an actual pic of the inside of the case as an open panel SIDE view and so CAMERON is correct.

Since 2 days ago games have extremely low choppy framerates. Before that, there were no problems. I am running Windows 10. Task manager shows CPU(~21%) and RAM(~30%) behaving normally. I suspect it is a problem with the graphics card. Today GPU driver was updated, computer was virus scanned, Windows 10 drivers were updated, Hardware troubleshooter found nothing, Dxdiag and Devices Manager shows that everything is working properly. This made no difference, neither did restarting the computer or disabling/enabling GPU. GPU core clock seems to be continuously stuck at 50MHz, off-load and with load. In fact, all GPU clocks are stuck at constant and low numbers. I have found nothing that could change it. This was not due to overclocking, settings were ABSOLUTELY stock.

Why is this? How can I fix it? Try to keep it simple, I'm not very good with computer. Just looked into this and learned it today trying to fix this problem. Thanks.

Windows 10
Nvidia Geforce N560GTX-Ti TwinFrozr II
4.5.0 Nvidia 382.33

Results from GPU-Z
GPU Core Clock: 50.6 MHZ (constant)
GPU Memory Clock: 67.5 MHz (constant) ***
GPU Shader Clock: 101.0MHz (constant)
GPU Tempurature: 33C no load (~38C with load)
Memory Used: ~300MB no load (~450MB with load)
GPU Load: 0% (constant)
Memory CONTROLLER Load: 0% (constant)
Video Engine Load: 0% (constant)
Bus Interface Load: 0% (constant)
VDDC: 0.9500V (constant)

Results from MSI Afterburner
GPU Core Clock: 51 MHz (constant)
GPU Memory Clock: 135 MHz (constant) ***
GPU Shader Clock: 101 MHz (constant)
GPU Tempurature: 33C no load (~38C with load)
Memory Used: ~300MB no load (~450MB with load)
GPU Usage: 0% (constant)
FB Usage: 0% (constant)
VID Usage: 0% (constant)
BUS Usage: 0% (constant)
GPU Voltage: 0.950 V (constant)

Results from MSI GPU Shark
GPU Core Clock: 50.0 MHz (constant)
GPU Memory Clock: 135.0 MHz (constant) ***
GPU Tempurature: 33C no load (~38C with load)
Memory Used: ~300MB no load (~450MB with load)
GPU: 0%, max: 0% (constant)
GPU Memory Controller: 0.0% (constant)
VDDC: 0.950 V (constant)
[Also says #Pstates=3, PSTATE P0, PstateP8, PstateP12(current). So it could be that I'm stuck in P12??, P12 says GPU:50.5MHz and Mem:135.0 MHz]

*** Strangely, 67.5 * 2 = 135. (GPU-Z rate * 2 = MSI rate)

My mouses have both become super sensitive, the laptop built in mouse and my external mouse (A4 tech). If I even pass over a link on the way to what I want, that link opens as if I had clicked on it.

What do you suggest? What could be causing this?

Thanks.Should be custom settings in Control Panel....did you check there ? ?Control Panel - Ease of Access - Make the mouse easier to use

Make sure "Activate a window by hovering over it...." is uncheckedThank you patio and Allen. Actually I couldn't get to a a specific place within control panel because as I moved to click on one thing so many other pages and windows opened. FINALLY I decided to just shut the computer down and LET it rest (is that even a thing?). Anyway, I turned it back on a while later and that particular problem was GONE. I also deleted a lot of downloads so that room was cleared on my hard.
Still, when this was happening I had the sense that I was under attack. I mean, why did this happen all of a sudden when I hadn't CHANGED those setting you both referred to?

Whatever it is, it's over, for now.

Thanks again.Good News...

I'd update and run full scans of your protection apps if that's what you suspect...but i doubt it is...THANK you, will do.

I have the HP Pavilion dv7t-7000 CTO Entertainment Notebook PC. I just wanted to know if I COULD add an EGPU to it so that I could run newer games on it.

Thanks.Simple answer is NO.
Others have asked that on YAHOO and never GOT an answer your would like.
External GPU functionality is only viable with systems that have USB 3.1 or Thunderbolt ports, which that one doesn't have.

how long until hdmi 2.1 GRAPHICS cards are announced?3 WEEKS 4 days and 18 1/2 hours...Quote from: patio on June 01, 2017, 02:58:00 PM

3 weeks 4 days and 18 1/2 hours...

are you serious if so what is this event?

Hello
I'm not sure if this is a problem or not. I have a wired keyboard and a wireless ONE that I use on the same computer. I NOTICED in UsbDeview, which is like DEVICE manager, that both keyboards are SHOWING up twice. Also, looking at the time and date they are connecting each time my computer is started. can someone tell me if this is normal BEHAVIOUR and if not what I can do to correct it? I have tried uninstalling the devices in device manger, but they still pop up as a pair of devices when I reboot.

I'm using Windows 10 pro and a Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 7 motherboard. I have included a pic. They are the top 4 devices in the pic.






[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]

That is probably the worst POSSIBLE outcome to find all those drives have failed.

Remember that the drives do have their control circuitry on-board. I'd suspect that perhaps it was the logic board that may have been fried by excess power, but the motors are more resilient and still operate AFTERWARDS. Optical drive might have just gotten lucky (MAYBE it was on a different PSU Rail?).You should have in your tool box a basic VOM or Digital Voltmeter.
You need ONE to validate the output of the power supply.


Were the hard drives ruined?

Short article with links:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB-C
Easy to read article:
HTTP://time.com/3745070/usb-c-macbook/
And Thunderbolt and USB:
https://www.cnet.com/how-to/usb-type-c-thunderbolt-3-one-cable-to-connect-them-all/
INTEL says now USB and Thunderbolt can share the same connector.
Quote

In fact, device MANUFACTURERS are so confident in the new USB-C standard that Intel announced last year that Thunderbolt 3, once thought to be a USB replacement, will use the same port type as USB-C. This means EVERY Thunderbolt 3 port will also work as a USB-C port and every Thunderbolt 3 cable will work as a USB-C cable.

If i change the BIOS option from IDE to AHCI the pc says auto detecting ahci port... and from that point it's adios computer, the bios is not even accessible anymore at that point, the only way to have it back is putting the battery out of the motherboard and waiting the bios to be back at factory settings.

The main reason to want it is that it struggles to play videos either streaming or pre downloaded, the sound usually stutters like *censored* of even make the pc freeze with a lawnmower sound until pressing and holding the power button to put it out of its misery. I have a 2GB graphic card in (zotac geforce GT 630). 8gb of ram ddr2, a Quad CPU Q9400 processor with 2.66ghz, using Windows 7 64bit, and trying Win 10 right now to see if there would be improvement... I would love to be watching videos flawlessly...Hello, your post is hard to understand.
Have you ever been able to watch videos on this computer without having some kind of issue? Do you have another computer that works better?
It would be helpful if you could supply some more information.What is the make and model of the computer you are using? And what kind of Internet connection do you have?
It seems that you said that even after downloading a video and then you try to play it back you have some difficulty. Is that so?
with plain graphics cards are able to play television quality movies with a high level of RELIABILITY. Therefore your problem seems to be something more than just merely a setting in the BIOS. Many, many users enjoy video on their personal computers without ever having to do anything to the computer.

Please provide additional information.


Why are you changing drive modes to begin with ? ?

Also if you installed Win 10 you need to install ALL component drivers for it...

Lastly there ain't much to improve the performance of that vid card...WELL now i'm trying to install windows 7 on ahci mode in bios, and it HANGS at the starting windows screen

Quote

The Advanced Host CONTROLLER Interface (AHCI) is a technical standard defined by Intel that specifies the operation of Serial ATA (SATA) host bus adapters in a non-implementation-specific manner.

The specification describes a system memory structure for computer hardware vendors to exchange data between host system memory and attached storage devices. AHCI gives software developers and hardware designers a standard method for detecting, configuring, and programming SATA/AHCI adapters. AHCI is separate from the SATA 3 Gbit/s standard, although it exposes SATA's advanced capabilities (such as hot swapping and native command queuing) such that host systems can utilize them.

As of March 2014, the current version of the specification is 1.3.1.

Hi, I have an old CPU that had been store in my room since 2010. This is a very old CPU so I bought a GTX 1050ti GRAPHIC card for it. But I don't know what need to be upgrade for a gaming desktop (GTA V, Rainbow Six Siege) and I have limited budget. I got a 500W PSU. This is the spec of my CPU:

[attachment DELETED by admin to conserve space]Your motherboard can support up to 3rd Generation Intel CORE processors. Something like the i7 3770K looks like the top end of what it could support. Looks l ike that can be had for about $400 on eBay, Though it MIGHT be worth instead putting that towards a new build instead.Thanks for the reply, but I have limited budget to buy a processor. If I still using my own processor would it be any problem playing those games?Well that CPU doesn't meet the minimum requirements so I doubt it would WORK particularly well.

Good day everyone !

After 1 week of search I am here,

First of would like to thank any and all help on this topic,

I am new to servers,
As I am building for my business,

I realized it may be EASIER for me to be able to access my Fiber Channel Hard drives with my PC or Laptop, whenever needed.

After tons of research, it's a million different opinions, that are out of date.

If anyone can please, tell me accurately and precisely, what kind of connection is on this drive ? SAS ? SCSI ? Etc etc etc.

I counted 40,
20 bottom 20 top of connection piece.
Please take a look at pictures.

I have seen tons of adaptors,
Everyone says theirs fit....

Even eyeballing and counting,
A blind man can tell it would not.

Thank you everyone,

This is for a Animal Rescue Center,
Timing is imperative.

Thanks


[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]You have identified the problem.
You can not interface a drive by the connector alone.
What is needed is the full specs of the drive itself. These are not fully VISIBLE in the first photo. The drive maker can tell you what sort of interface is needed.

Please show a photo of the drive label with all the details.Looks like fibre channel to me, looking up the full model number of the drive would confirm if this is the case. Unfortunately it is not easy if even possible to connect an FC drive over USB. Do you still have the original server as this would be by FAR the easiest way to access the DATA?

I have a Canon PIXMA MG3620 with a paper JAM - a thin strip the entire length of an 8 1/2 x 11" page tore off during printing and is wrapped tightly around the platen. I've been trying to REACH it from the front with no luck and it's not reachable from the rear of the printer. I can't figure out how to open the printer so I can access the platen. Can anyone help?Look on You Tube.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=cannon+paper+jamNote - I've been all over YouTube (and Google) but the only disassembly videos or suggestions I've found are for other models, not this one.You search You Tube with this:
Canon PIXMA MG3620 paper jam
and get these:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OvzLyxg69bg&t=5s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruGPTFFVOcw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z5EXPtdYDI8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hIUiSWnXdrU

Notice that they never tell you to take apart the #$%*&^ printer.
You just have to find the paper a and pull.
And it is the same story for most other printers.

Here is the full list I found.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Canon+PIXMA+MG3620+paper+jam
There are over a hundred, most make reference to either that model.

Here is one you might like:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xV0l5mN9PnQ
Maybe the MAN is telling you to buy another printer. The model you have is now on sale for about $50. When vendors start selling printers at low prices, repair and recovery become less productive it your time has value. The ink is more than the printer...

IMHO printers have turned into Bic lighters...when they run out or have issues you just throw them away...There's absolutely NO way to pull out this piece of paper - it's about a quarter of an inch wide and 11 inches long. Believe me, I've tried - it's in there as tight as possible. I've tried to slice it so I can grasp smaller pieces with long TWEEZERS but I'm afraid I'll score the platen if I keep working on it that way.

There HAS to be a way to get this freakin' thing open, doesn't there?? Short of a sledgehammer? (which I'm about to try next!) There are a few screws on the back but nothing comes apart (at least on the outside) so that's useless....

I've taken printers apart before - been dealing with recalcitrant electronics and mechanical gizmos for decades - but this one just has me stumped. I hate to throw in the towel and buy a new one - waste does not come easily to me - but when I do, it's likely NOT to be a Canon. I've only had the printer since this past Christmas and this problem has been going on for a few months! Before you destroy it, you can spray a mix of water, and alcohol. The will dissolve the paper and provide some lubrication. UPDATE (in case anyone CARES, lol) - after several uses of the printer's scanner function, I just opened the front of the case to see if the alcohol tip would work next and the nasty piece of paper had unrolled itself. Turns out it was caught in place by an errant sticky bit from an ink cartridge - guess I didn't fully remove the "pull to use" tab when I changed cartridges last time. So, my bad. But thanks for your advice! Good news...thanx for the update

I would like to sell our iPad2 but wonder if that is allowed by Apple or if there are pitfalls? I have never sold a used computer. I have erased all contents using the iPad reset function and it is ready (I think) to be set-up by a new user. I saw one for sale on eBay and description said iCloud was locked. What does that mean? Thanks.If you've reset everything then you are fine to sell it, nothing wrong with doing that at all. The iCloud lock ones are ones that have an iCloud account attached to them where the seller doesn't know the password, as you can imagine you should probably avoid BUYING ones as they are likely stolen.etcQuote from: camerongray on May 06, 2017, 05:54:27 AM

If you've reset everything then you are fine to sell it, nothing wrong with doing that at all. The iCloud lock ones are ones that have an iCloud account attached to them where the seller doesn't know the password, as you can imagine you should probably avoid buying ones as they are likely stolen.ETC

I recently acquired an all in one system from a friend, but unfortunately, they don't know what the name of the system was. I need to know because I need to buy a power cable for it as it doesn't take the standard power cable that most pcs use. If anyone could help me find the name of this all in one Dell system that would be most appreciated.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve SPACE]Unfortunately that isn't an all in one system, it's just a monitor with BUILT in USB hub and extra inputs for things such as composite and S-Video. Could be a Dell UltraSharp 2001FP.I FIGURED it was an all in one system because it had the usbs, and my friend told me it was as well. From what I had traced back I had gotten only monitors as well so I wasn't very sure. Thanks for re-assuring me. At LEAST it was free right? YEAH, at least it was free. If it is indeed a 2001FP it isn't too bad a monitor. Of course it's pretty old and isn't as good as a modern one although it's better than most monitors of its age.

Thank You and SORRY about hitching a ride.I have a Pixma Canon MG7120 and I am out of all other ink besides black. I have all of the cartridges still in even though they are empty. A prompt COMES up asking if i want to cancel print or shop for more ink, but in the instructions of the prompt it says "If you WOULD like to print in just black ink, then hold the STOP button for 5 seconds." I do so and it just continues to print the black and WHITE print.

i bought a new computer but when i started it up i get no signal to my MONITOR i have tried with both dvi and hdmi but still no signals why is that ? :O
I didnt choose to get windows on it beacuse i was gonna install it from usb but it should still be able to get signal to the monitorDid you BUILD this computer?

If you didnt build this computer then return it under warranty for a replacement. A computer should work with no problems when just purchased and should have a warranty unless this is a new used computer bought off of someone else in which there might not be a warranty and you are then stuck with fixing it or taking a loss.

What Make/Model computer and specs would HELP?Dvi should give a signal...HDMI wont work proper til correct DRIVERS are installed...

Have you tried onboard video ? ?...you SURE the Monitor is good ? ?

I bought this phone yesterday, got it unlocked by a technician and WENT back home to root it, i tried oneclickroot kingo and a few other softwares and they failed. So read a little further and notinced that odin was SUPPOSED to do the trick, and followed the steps, by installing the proper usb drivers and running odin with the phone in download mode, but everytime i try to flash the root file , the process fails and writes that FRP LOCK made it fail.


I read a few tutos but all of them seem to gravitate around using KIES to fix this and KIES always FREEZES once I entered the model NUMBER SM-G903W. Tried it on different pcs, always the same.

Little help?Quote

I read a few tutos