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I have a problem with the SCREEN EX: http://prntscr.com/faarg3 http://prntscr.com/faarot
The problem comes up when i play GAMES and watch full screen

All that being stated it ain't a gaming CHIP...until the spftware developers start writing to it's advantages...Quote from: Salmon Trout on June 01, 2017, 11:08:33 AM

Now I'm puzzled... the aortic circle sounds kind of unhealthy.

All that being stated it ain't a gaming chip...until the spftware developers start writing to it's advantages...

Hello World, my name is Sean and I'm having some trouble. I own Dell Inspiron E1505 laptop and she has a few cracks and dings (abused by family). Well, now whenever I turn it on, the Dell logo flashes for a spill second and then nothing. I'd like to know if a hard reset would fix this, but my laptop claims my version of windows isn't geniune. I took it to a REPAIRMAN to fix the problem a year ago, though.. I'm using my Xbox to type this out so sorry for any errors. Oh, I'm running Windows 7Did Windows 7 come with the laptop?
I think your battery has gone bad.
Can you get into the BIOS?
Do this:
REMOVE the battery, plug in in the AC adapter.
Hold and release the power button, then tap the F2 a few times.
It should bot into the BIOS.
Inside the BIOS you can take a look ANS see if the date and time are torrent.
Correct if needed and load the default settings for your laptop.
Reboot and see if that helps.


No its a pretty old laptop. I sent it in for repairs and it came back saying the battery wasnt in though itwas pyschically. Ill try your suggestion and let you know if it works.
No dice. It just does what its been doing.
OK. Trying to repair an old laptop is not worthwhile, except as a pastime.
On eBay they sell for under $100 as is, or about $150 with a warranty.

But WAIT. One more thing. Remove the Hard drive. Make sure nothing is in the USB ports. Try to power on with no battery, no hard drive and on the AC power brick only. It should come up in the BIOS screen.

Describe what happens when you try the above.

Does it show this?


[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Ufortunately, that's not going to happen. I've got some damage on the hinges and if i close it, I'll probably CAUSE more damage. I'll take your advice and buy a new one.

Thanks anyway,friend.

I bought a new computer like 3-4 months ago and it was running really smooth, but last week i had a problem with the vga cable. I use a DVI->VGA adapter and my friend accidentally pulled it a bit too strong. the rear of the adapter got losen and it wasnt working. i had to buy a new one, and as soon as I turned the computer on after a week the graphics were all messed up, the screen was like stretched, most of the letters in games and web pages look BLURRY and small, circles look like ovals now.... also a really weird window pops every 30 min for less than a sec in the middle of the screen. It looks like a command window like the CMD one. When i play fullscreen games and i try to switch back to the DESKTOP the screen just goes black for 3 seconds its really annoying and i dont have any idea what could be WRONG. I dont have that much knowledge about tech and i was hoping that i could recieve an amazing response here if you need any extra info or system properties let me know i will be checking this post every day thank you for your time.




Is this a vid card ? ?

If so remove all power to the PC and remove re-seat the vid card...Check ur graphic settings and the cmd window could be caused by a program running in the BACKGROUND. Did you instal anything recently? What did you last install before the window started popping up?It sounds like your resolution is set incorrectly.
Right click your desktop and go to Display Settings/Screen Resolution (Depending on your version of Windows)
Make sure the resolution is set to the native resolution of your monitor, usually this has the tag "(Recommended) beside it.

As for the random CMD window, there is currently a known 'feature' with Microsoft Office.
Please see https://www.reddit.com/r/Windows10/comments/6dnsb4/today_i_noticed_that_a_random_cmdexe_window_keeps/ for the solution.

Hello everyone. Hope you are all doing good today and able to beat the heat on this very hot day. I have this really old laptop HP PAVILLION dv6000. ORIGINALLY it came with Windows Vista installed back when Windows Vista was first released but eventually I upgraded the laptop to Windows 7. Everything was fine and working until recently where the laptop has no sound. I try to install the sound driver from the HP website and it says "driver installation failed: could not find the device for this driver."

No matter what I do I cannot get sound on this laptop. If I go to YouTube and watch a video the video plays just fine but with no sound. When I click on the sound icon next to the time on the desktop bar a window pops up that says "troubleshooting has completed" Problems found: "Hardware CHANGES might not have been detected." I am not sure what is up with this or how to fix it but any help is APPRECIATED thanks.A Vista laptop likely doesn't have Win7 drivers written...try re-installing the originals from the Driver CD and reboot...

Plus it's likely you are trying nVidia or AMD drivers gettin it to work which is a no-no on a laptop....That is just it we don't have the original CD's that came with the laptop that is how old it is. We got it when windows Vista first came out. When we upgraded to Windows 7 afterwards we did not have any problems with the laptop or sound until just now. It's an HP laptop but I can't get the sound drivers to download even though I got them from the HP website and I selected windows Vista as my original OS.Select Win7 drivers...if they are available...I tried that too and that did not work. I get the same error message whether I try to install windows vista sound driver or windows 7.You sure you have the Model # info correct @ the HP site ? ?When I go to the HP website and type in the serial NUMBER that is under my laptop it shows HP Pavillion dv6646us as the model that comes up which is not correct because my laptop is model HP Pavillion dv6000. I even tried using the product number instead instead of the serial number and still I get this dv6646us not dv6000. If I click on choose a different product it just takes me back to the previous screen where I have to enter my serial or product number again.

My daughter's hard drive blew up and I had to install a new one.
I restored the system to factory defaults using recovery disks.
Windows 7 came up FINE but, the laptop doesn't RECOGNIZE the network controller (unrecognized hardware)
Any help would be greatly appreciated.It shoulda taken care of it on factory restore...however i'd re-install laptop drivers...EITHER from the DRIVER CD that came with it...or from the laptop manuf. website...
Thanks Patio -
I downloaded the driver for the network controller and it works (sort of) with a wired connection.
Now I just to get it to recognize a wireless connection.

Hello, i have a new-ish (2-3 months old) xg2401. I have those scan lines randomly APPEARING when i go back to my games after alt-tabbing. It happens ~2 times / week. In occasion, it ALSO happenned when launching the game, i didn't even alt-tab. Pictures : http://imgur.com/a/HlU70

Other symptoms :

-Once it happens, i get "scan lines" on every thing, desktop included. Rebooting is the only fix.
-Powering off (with the button), removing the cable (video or power), give a "no signal" when i PLUG it back. I can still open the display menu.
-Screenshots taken are fine and do not SHOW the scan lines.
-The On Screen Display menu is also fine, and do not have those scan lines.

At first, i though i was some kind of stereoscopic 3D thing activating, so i uninstalled nvidia 3d drivers. Still happening. I even cleaned my graphics drivers with DDE, and reinstalled them.

Thanks you !
Go back to the drivers from the card manuf. site...Lastest drivers are installed. CG is a GTX 970 by the way. Didn't had the problem with my previous monitor.You didnt read my post...USE the manuf. drivers...not nVidia.The driver from EVGA and Nvidia is the same version.

I bought a cheap 144hz cable (dual DVI) to work with my ASUS VG248QE. It SHOWS that it is set up to 144hz in nvidia control settings but when I go into the windows monitor settings it shows that it is at 60 hz. When I turn it up to 144hz, the quality gets really bad and eventually it automatically turns itself into 60 hz again. What might be the problem and can you recommend any other cables from amazon/ebay UK that will actually work for me if that is the problem? THX.Also, I get a notification from my monitor every time that I put it into 144hz which says that I need to plug-in a DVI-D cable even though I am using one.Get a decent cable.....the cheap ONES are junk...You need a Dual LINK DVI-D Cable. If the monitor is complaining, then the cable very likely is not.

Alternatively if the monitor has a port you can use an HDMI cable (Must be 1.3) or a DISPLAYPORT Cable.Alright thx!

Quote from: strollin on May 21, 2017, 06:35:28 AM

Watts is most definitely NOT a good indicator of the loudness of a speaker. If you were comparing amplifiers to use with a specific speaker, then watts would be a decent indicator of loudness but with amplified speaker systems, you cannot state that this 10 watt speaker system will be louder than this other 5 watt speaker system. That's due to the efficiency of the system itself. It's quite possible for a low wattage system with an efficient amplifier and efficient speakers to produce more volume (with less distortion and higher quality sound reproduction) than another system with more wattage but a poorly DESIGNED, inefficient amplifier and very inefficient speakers.

Listening with your own ears is the best way to select a speaker system.

Sad to say, but the makers of loudspeakers are not giving us the SPL of the items for sale. SPL is the Sound Pressure Level and and should represents a real measure of how much sound can come from a loudspeaker without heavy distortion or damage to the unit.
Example:
https://www.jensentone.com/frequency_response_comparison

Sad to say, but the makers of loudspeakers are not giving us the SPL of the items for sale. SPL is the Sound Pressure Level and and should represents a real measure of how much sound can come from a loudspeaker without heavy distortion or damage to the unit.
Example:
https://www.jensentone.com/frequency_response_comparison

There has to be a retailer where you can hear them before you buy...i have 4 of them in my general area...

I seem to have a problem with one of my RAID drives. It is RAID 0 (Stripped). I am using Windows 10 on an ASUS P5E-VM-HDMI Mother board with 4gb memory and a Core 2 Quad Intel Processor . I have multiple drives including one SSD (The C Drive). Two other drives are RAIDED and are fine. I have several computers and a smart TV. I have an entertainment center I built from scratch which includes a ROKU. The ROKU has PLEX, a native file sharer program and EMBY Media Server. That is where the problem began. At first I was able to stream all of my photos, music, and Video to the ROKU. Once everything was shut down. . . attempts to watch video on the next day ended in an error message and failure. After a while. . . I noticed that Windows 10 on the server machine was NO LONGER acknowledging my V Drive which is a RAID 0 drive I use just for video. I have tried hitting the Control + I on boot and that shows the Video RAID drive normally, but when the computer gets to the home page in the program. . . NO V drive can be found. It acknowledges the other RAID drives but NOT the Video drive. Every time I change the configuration with the Control + I and boot up, Windows 10 asks me to verify that it is me by entering my PIN. . . which I do. Problem is . . . . STILL no V Drive shows up in Windows 10. Does anyone know how to fix this problem? Under Disk Management does it show it there, but without a partition?

I have seen before where a RAID set will break and drives making up the RAID are no longer paired by the OS. The BIOS or Pre-Boot RAID configuration might show the RAID set as good to go, but not joined with Windows anymore.

Hopefully you have a redundant copy ( backup ) of all important data for your V drive, so its just a matter of creating a new partition index to this RAID set and then format the V drive and then copy the data back to the V drive from external backup source etc.

* One of your drives could have a problem that caused this. I would run crystaldiskinfo and make sure there are no error or warning messages as for you could have a drive that is failing that caused this. To loose the RAID after a reboot it could be that one of the drives took too long to boot and pair with the RAID controller and OS or if power was killed to the system without proper shutdown you can corrupt data and break it that way as well.Thank you for your response. The native Computer Management utility does NOT show the drive(s) at all. I have tried that multiple times. The BIOS correctly shows the drive(s) The system does NOT.I did try the crystaldiskinfo you suggested. It showed my external HD B: and one of my RAID drives D: but does not show the C drive or V drive. For those who like to tinker. . . WARNING! I found my problem. I could not see my RAID drives in Windows 10. I did some research on RAID drivers under Windows 10. One poster said that the Windows 10 / ASUS motherboard used a PROMISE Raid controller. I searched the web for such a software for the controller. Found two. First one refused to INSTALL. Second one installed but caused my computer to crash. Worse. .. it would not boot up to the GUI. In desperation, I put the October / November 2016 build of Windows 10 into the CDROM. I walked away from it for the night at the opening screen. NEXT morning . . . to my surprise. . . it had booted to the GUI. I still could not see my Video Raid drive. . . but I was just happy to be able to use the system.
A few nights ago. . . I looked at the "Storage Controlers" in the Control Panel. The PROMISE controller was still active. When I rolled back the Promise driver. . . it defaulted to the "Microsoft Storage Spaces Controller" . The Promise driver was gone (I selected to remove driver and software selection). . . when I rolled back the driver. After reboot. . . I noticed my RAID drives. Fortunately, I have been a BIG supporter of Backup Software and had a very recent backup of the HD's in my system. I was able to re-construct my system to where it had been before the trouble.

Thanks to all who offered help. It is not easy to diagnose someones computer without being there. I just wanted to tell everyone how I solved the problem. I am now back to full service.

By the way, I have been using Ocster 9 backup . . until it was bought out by Ashampoo. I now use Ashampoo Backup Pro 10 and will be going to 11 soon. SAVED my bacon more than once.Great to hear that you got it all back up and running. Looking at what you shared, do you think an updated driver came through and started the mess? I had an ISSUE with an "optional" windows update years ago ( thinking 10 years ago) killing a driver on me, so I avoid optional updates unless its to fix an ALREADY existing issue.Quote

In desperation, I put the October / November 2016 build of Windows 10 into the CDROM. I walked away from it for the night at the opening screen. NEXT morning . . . to my surprise. . . it had booted to the GUI.

My hard DRIVE says it a foreign disk after being excluded from a spanned volume. How do I go about WIPING it and MAKE it a single clean drive again? It ALSO won't let me import it due to an i/o error. I've tried everything from disk part to GParted any other help would be much appreciated. Thanks! =)

I recently got an AMD RX 560, because my old gtx 560 ti 448 just wasn't cutting it anymore. It is literally falling apart. The fan brackets are coming undone. Anyway, I've been having some issues with my new 560. Whenever I start a heavy load, such as a game, it crashes. I'll either get a message about device HANG, or that amd wattman has failed and reset to DEFAULT settings. Now, I know it's not my power supply, as I've had the 448, a gtx 980, and a 1070 in my pc. Its rated at 600w, and the gpu is rated for 400w. I have an i5 2500, so that isn't taking up that much. I've also tried all the available drivers for this model as WELL. I'm kinda regretting buying amd :/

Just bought this power supply because my newest gaming systems Thermaltake 550 watt PSU died after 7 years of reliable use with a weak 5 volt rail.

Was wondering if anyone knows what this FREE Power on Self Tester is for power supply linked below?

I didnt see any pictures of any device that came along with this to test power supply as WELL as ..... why would you need a Free Power On Self Tester for a new power supply which would operate fine new out of box... so its an odd inclusion.

Whether it comes with this free tester or not, it seemed like a good deal for the price sticking to the $50 budget I wanted to stick with. Only tester I have seen before is a jumper to make power supplies run stand alone which I have just used a paperclip before to power a PC power supply stand alone.

EVGA 600 B1 100-B1-0600-KR 80+ BRONZE 600W Includes FREE Power On Self Tester Power Supply

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438014

I was also looking at a Corsair Power Supply, but this one I got because it was 600 watts, slightly cheaper, and has a $5 rebate, so maybe it will cost me $45 after $5 rebate reimbursement. I trust both brands and buy other PC parts from those brands as well.

I saw a PC Power supply also with a 12 year Warranty as seen here at link below and that struck me as odd.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151162&ignorebbr=1&cm_re=PPSSGUMJTGMIDO-_-17-151-162-_-Product

Its good that their quality can be backed by 12 year warranty, but in all actuality for my main gaming systems I only get about 5 years out of them before they become obsolete to newer hardware needs etc. I have a stack of obsolete and lighter weight power supplies dating back 15 years that only have 20 pin vs 24 pin, or single 12v molex only for CPU power, as well as some that dont have SATA power and so the P to SATA adapters could be used to use with SATA drive, then some newer ones have a 4 pin and a 6 pin molex for older video cards that match up to that, then my GeForce GTX 260 superclocked 216 core requires 2 x 6 pin molex but by which my Geforce GTX 780 ti requires a 6 and 8 pin 12volt molex and I had to use an adapter to turn a 6 pin into 8 pin to match up to all the 12 volt tap needs for the video card. In another couple years video cards may change yet again to direct power tap needs and then the power supply that I just bought is once again part of planned obsolescence.

I guess if your building a computer that you plan to use for the next 12 years with free power supply replacements if the power supply dies it might be something to invest in. But most computer users dont keep the same computer around for 12 years, especially a gamer who has to keep up with the TIMES in order to run the latest games at best performance in which I see maybe 3 to 6 years of use out of this power supply before they have to move on to a newer more modern power supply due to ever changing video card power connection requirements, as well as the motherboard power connection could also evolve into a different power configuration from the current 24-pin as well as the CPU 12v direct power tap can also evolve.


PC Power supply also with a 12 year Warranty
That is unheard of.
Five, seven and maybe 10 years. But 12 is near infinity for the PC industry.A PSU testing adapter plug into the motherboard power adapter and turns on the PSU when you connect it to the AC. I think it's a bit like the paperclip test.



Video here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rucfmsGjPow
Ok cool. THANKS for finding that. Surprised the answer was on YouTube.

Hey all, I'm having a dilemma.

TLDR: my new Acer Aspire E 15 laptop has a messed up screen, should I get a refund and either finance a MacBook or find a used MacBook, or try to repair the Acer?

In mid march I bought a new laptop - an Acer Aspire E 15 from Amazon. A couple weeks ago I OPENED it and there was a big black spot on the screen with white lines COMING from it. The laptop hadn't been dropped or even moved, I don't know what caused it. But reviews on amazon said other people had the same problem a month or two after buying the laptop.

I CONTACTED amazon and they said I can return it for a refund. I contacted the seller and they said I could send it to them for repair. However, I use my laptop for work and couldn't go that long WITHOUT it for them to fix it. When I contacted Acer about the warranty, they said that since the black spot is "finger shaped" (??) it's not covered under warranty. But it is so large that it's a real problem when trying to work, or even just generally use it.

So now I have to decide whether to get it repaired or get a refund and buy a new laptop. I'm leaning toward the latter. I really want a MacBook and was approved for financing from Apple.
However, my friend made the point that computers are kind of like cars in that they depreciate in value after you buy them. So is it really worth getting a new MacBook and financing it? Or should I look into getting a used one for cheaper? If I get a used one, how old is too old for it not to be worth it? What's a good model? Do you think I'm making the right choice?

The internet said that the Acer Aspire E 15 that I have now is one of the best for the money. And I could also just replace the screen for about $50. Just looking for opinions / advice. I've wanted a MacBook for a while -- I'm a graphic designer. But what would you do in this situation? Thanks!
I read you post and at first I wanted to say send it back.
But if you really want a Masc Book and you can do the payments...
Get The Mac Book.
.. you won't be happy until you do.

If it were me, I'd exercise the Warranty that the laptop should still have which should repair or replace it for free since you have only had it since march. Have you made contact with Acer yet to try to get this covered by warranty?

The only tricky part here is if it was bought by someone else and relisted for sale on amazon then the purchase date could be on record for when they bought it vs when you bought it. By the serial number Acer may be able to TELL you whether its covered or not.

Unfortunately I havent dealt with Acer ( the new company ) support to know if they are good or bad. I have only deal with Acer 20 years ago which is a whole different company than it is today.

My battery was broken.
Is it dangerous?
Does it need new ones?

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]If those melted places were caused by it overheating, you need a new one. You could have a fire soon.

Is this humor ? ?A man wrote in to a motorcycle advice column he had written many times before, out of desperation:

"Hello, I think my wife is cheating on me. She spends lots of time "out with the girls" and comes home long after I've fallen asleep. Last weekend I waited in my garage, hiding behind my motorbike (Honda Rebel 200, gorgeous). She pulled in at 3AM and before she STEPPED inside she turned her shirt BACK the right way around, and put on her underwear she had in her purse. My heart sank and I really need your advice, because as I was trying to get a closer look, I noticed that the fairing on my Motorbike was damaged. Is this something that needs a professional repair JOB or can I fix it myself?"

Quote from: patio on May 24, 2017, 04:12:40 PM

Is this humor ? ?

I have a sony VAIO PCV-RX830 I recently got some memory off another computer I dont know if I can PUT it in my system how do you check that and also I cant figuer out how to open it theirs no screws in the back of my MODEM their are some clips but I cant figuer out how to take off the cover any help would be welcomed

the memory is a Infineon hys64v8300gu-8-c 8Mx64 SDRAM
C2904009 PC100-222-620
64MB SYNC,100MHZ CL2 can I put this in my computer?I also have another card
Infineon hys64D320000GU-7-B 32Mx64 SDRAM
B2C31410 PC2100U-20330-A1
256MB DDR 266 CL3

Can I put this in?Travel to crucial.com and enter your system specs and it will TELL you exactly what RAM will work in that machine....the back of my computer doesnt unscrew I cant figuer out how to take the side off to install the RAM cards if anyone is firmilar with my MODEL could u please tell me how to open it upQuote from: patio on July 03, 2007, 09:45:53 PM

Travel to crucial.com and enter your system specs and it will tell you exactly what RAM will work in that machine....

Whenever I put in a dvd, it GIVES me this ERROR: "Access to the specified device, path, or FILE is denied." I can still play if manually but it's getting annoying. I've set the auto play value in the registry editor to 1, but it's still the same.

I'm running WINDOWS 2000 and the name of my drive is:
TOSHIBA DVD-ROM SD-C2402

Any HELP would be greatly apreciated.

i was at freinds work and his kid was messing with him computer and somehow got all his documents to go into this grey screen that pops up everytime he turns on his computer. He cant drag them off or ANYTHING. ow do we stop this from HAPPENING? Is there any chance of getting a SCREENSHOT? I'm not QUITE sure what's going on here.

Hi all

My pc is 3.2GHz 2cpu n 1512mb of ram

But when i used to play UT2004 it played nice but sometimes/somedays my screen bombs out and goes black n' white that, i have to restart the machine.. i have 17"screen. other games plays nice like warcraft III.

Do i need to buy extra parts or call a witch doctor to solve this screen issue going Black n' White sometimes. i almost banged it down one day but likely no.

ThanksHave you installed the latest patches--->HereWow i didn't i'm trying that now.

ThanksDo you mean the PATCH link or the download button?
Which one?Try here instead.-->http://www.gamershell.com/news/20384.html

Make sure you read the instructions for patches.Thanks man got it right.

Its time to get a new graphics card my friend told so that the one i have is onboard and i shoul get an external on. something with Geforce card 512mb i'll get it tommorow if its cheap. Sharp. US$250 then its cool.Well, below is the system requirements.

Pentium III or AMD Athlon 1.0 GHz processor (Pentium® or AMD 1.2GHz or greater recommended)
128MB RAM (256MB RAM or greater recommended)
5.5GB HDD space REQUIRED
8X CD-ROM or DVD
Windows® compatible sound card
32 MB video card required (64 MB NVIDIA or ATI hardware T&L card recommended)
DirectX® version 9.0b (included on game DISC)
Internet (TCP/IP) and LAN (TCP/IP) play supported. Internet play requires a 33.6 kbps or faster modem (broadband recommendedOk im lost what game are you guys on about i want to say black and white , but im moveing to world of war craft , also can someone tell me if i can play it please...

I am reformatting my sons computer, An old Dell 4300. For some unknown reason the tray door opens and closes by itself. without any help of mine. What could cause this besides a ghost?OK, can you gives us a little more information to deal with? It could be faulty hardware if the computer is old (when did you get it?).

Are you in the process of formatting (it shouldn't take long), or have to formatted already?Check the cabling. If all is WELL replace the CDROM drive.

Alan <>< The computer is 7YRS old, And no I have not reformatted yet. And al52 what is cabling?7 years old?!? WOW

For computer years, take dog years, then multiply that by 3. That makes it about 147 years old.

Seriously though, does the drive work fine with a CD in it? If not, it may have very well have just given up the ghost. If it does, could be that the eject button is weak and gets stuck in the eject position.

PS
By cabling, he meant the cables PLUGGING the CD ROM to the computer.If that computer is 7 years old, I would be quite surprised to see the CD-ROM still functioning PROPERLY. You might be due for a replacement.

For up to an hour after it is initialy turned on, it is unstable, and reboots itself. (after it has been on a while it becomes stable) This appears more likely to happen if I am using greater system resources:
ie it happens less if I am reading emails, but almost certainly will happen if I am playing an online first person shooter game.

It is NOT a software problem, I am 100% sure, as I completely reformatted, and had the problem before running anything other than the OS (XP)

I currently have the CASE off and I am cleaning the very dusty fan, however as there is nothing monitoring the heat, I dont see why it would become stable after an hour or TWO, when surely it has become hotter.

Thanks for any helpalmost all good manufactured motherboards have built in heat sensors, which are not quite 100% accurate but can help avoid burnout, but a dodgy power SUPPLY could also cause the fault if it is a low rated VERSION and you are asking for more power than it can give, dirt and fluff on the fans and air intake areas like just behind the facia panel and in the FINS of cooling blocks.

When i right click the drive, the pc freezes. It doesnt give me the dropdown to select properties.More info is needed.I wanted to put my faulty disk into my daughters pc to try and get my data back. There was no slot for an extra hd so i took the cd drive out and put the faulty drive in there. The pc BOOTED up (very slowly).
I then went to the "my computer" screen and it showed the faulty drive as "d drive" with an icon of a hd. I right clicked the icon and the computer froze. The "my computer" screen stopped responding.
I tried this several times. I cannot access the faulty drive.Make sure it is jumpered as slave...you will need to unplug the power and ribbon cable to check this.Jumpers were in correct position, i double checked. Have given up now.
We hate giving up here...until all hope is gone.

Travel Here for another method to try...

Kudos to GX1_Man.If the HDD is not responding even when slaved, it's most likely a physical problem inside the HDD.

Sorry, but there's not much that can be done for that.

If even ONE tiny chip develops on one of the disks inside your HDD, the little arm that reads the info on it will catch it and make the chip bigger, and the peices will move and catch other places causing scratches and more chips etc etc.

Its a tough way to go, but it pretty much eats itself alive with every rotation of the disks.How has it been determined that one of his platters inside a sealed unit is damaged ? ?Quote

How has it been determined that one of his platters inside a sealed unit is damaged ? ?

If the HDD is not responding even when slaved, it's most likely a physical problem inside the HDD.

Jumpers were in correct position, i double checked. Have given up now.

In the first line of what ? ?

Hello, I have an older computer PURCHASED in 1998 and using Windows 98 that is not detecting my MOUSE.

It seems that my computer will not even boot up because of it. It gets hung up at the Microsoft Windows 98 logo screen and doesn't go any further. When I simply force it to shut down and boot it up again, I receive a choice on a few DIFFERENT boot methods. This is after the diagnostic that runs because of the improper shut down.

When I ENTER safe mode I receive a pop up window telling me that there is no mouse connected and that I can safely connect a serial mouse at this time. I then unplug and replug the mouse back into what seems to be the only place it can go. It still doesn't work. I restart my computer by navigating with the keyboard, but that simply begins the ordeal all over again.

Is there anyone that knows how to fix this problem?

ThanksWow! a 9 YEAR old PC!! That must be a record! try a different mouse? Possibly your mouse is broken, although with hardware that old it could be the motherboard. Maybe you could sell it to a museum.

I expect it is a serial mouse if it is that old (the plug has 9 pins)




I have three different ones that I've tried. One was the original serial mouse that came with the PC. That one stopped working a long time ago and I assume it's broken. I have another serial mouse that someone gave to me and that one worked without any complications. I also have a new mouse for a different computer that uses a USB type cable. That one works too, although the computer had to install or update something for it to function.

It was all working fine up until yesterday when I had run the system restore feature. So I dunno if that has anything to do with it.Time for a new mouse...i highly recommend PS2 connectors since if Windows acts up a USB mouse is worthless.
Logitech make the sturdiest meece in my experience...I've obtained a Logitech mouse with a PS2 connector from a friend.

There was no difference after plugging it in and trying to use it on my old computer.

I also tested it on my newer one and it worked fine, so I assume the problem lies within the computer itself?Do you get any beeps at startup at all...or error messages ? ?

You could try replacing the CMOS battery...bout the size of a dime on the motherboard...part # CR2032 available anywhere practically.

As always when working inside the case remove all power sources and take anti-static precautions.

I had a problem with my explorer see Here
and Here
Now I reformatted the C: drive and eventually I had to format ALL drives.
The problem stayed away for a day but after I installed the SP2 and some other updates I wasn't able to get to the properties of a drive.
I think it is an hardware problem but that doesn't make any sense?!
It is the only problem.
My previous harddrive crashed that make sense but this?!
Can it be because it is not the original drive? It worked fine for a 6months.
I don't know what else I can do.
Can someone solve this or at least explain why this is happening.

Thanks in advance

Jonas

Quote from: Jonas Wauters on June 26, 2007, 07:42:26 AM

I wasn't able to get to the properties of a drive.

same with using the file tap methode.

I have a question about Hard disk. Have you notice that everytime we partition a Hard disk if you have 80GB the size only shows 78GB, have you guys noticed that?

So wheres the 2GB?Why doesn't my hard drive show the correct size?

The short answer to there's two different measurement formats used. Decimal (GB) and binary (GiB) formats. Binary is used by Windows and decimal is used by the manufacturers. Both the manufacturer and Windows are giving you the "correct" number.

Binary numbers are numbers that are a power of 2.
Decimal numbers are numbers that are a power of 10.

2^10 is 1,024 the closest Decimal number is 10^3 or 1,000
2^20 is 1,048,576 The closest Decimal number is 10^6 or 1,000,000
2^30 is 1,073,741,824 The closest Decimal number is 10^9 or 1,000,000,000

Now lets look at common terms:
Kilo means 1 thousand
Mega means 1 million
Giga means 1 billion
Tera means 1 Trillion

1000/1024 = .9765625
1,000,000/1,048,576 = .9536743
1,000,000,000/1,073,741,824 = .93132257

Noticing a trend YET?

At the Kilobyte size the difference is about 2.34% While at the Gigabyte stage the difference is 6.86% Since we're living in the day where it's relatively easy to put a full terrabyte of storage in your computer that "close enough" is becoming further and further from "close enough" At the Terrabyte level the difference is getting very close to 10%

Would you want to buy a hard drive that is labeled as 2^35 byte hard drive? Or would you rather see a 500Gb drive? I don't want anybody ever having to pull out a calculator to figure out how big their hard drive is!

Windows is the one reporting things wrong! Not your manufacturer. Windows does the binary calculations and then displays GB next to it. When GB is technically wrong due to it's definition. What it is actually displaying is the GiB size.

Since the GB number will always be so much higher than the GiB number it's a safe bet to ASSUME that the hard drive manufacturers won't convert to using the GiB format. Memory manufacturers on the other hand are doing things right. You don't see then selling 1Gb of RAM as 1,073Mb do ya? It gets VERY confusing in the hardware world due to some people using 1 standard while they other group using the other one.Broni what can I say. You are a Guru. Thank you so much! Now I know why 80GB becomes 78GB.Quote

You are a Guru

Quote

You are a Guru

Nah...I like Google...LOL

The accepted practice is to be sure to include a link to your source, when copy-n-pasting

While at the Gigabyte stage the difference is 6.86%

I just started an XP pro install on an older computer of mine running a pentium 4 processor 2.4ghz. During the install a blue screen with white writing appeared saying I had to re-start the computer.

I re-started and got the bios screen and it said the CPU hung for an inproper time. I have tried re-starting, booting from disks etc and can't get it to work. Has the CPU GONE? I can only get the bios screen, if I re-start computer the screen doesnt even come on it just makes a noise all sounds the same as normal like hard DISK LOADING, graphics card fan running etc, the graphics card is ok COZ tried another one and it does same thing. Tried taking out the battery and putting it back in and still no good.

Can anyone tell me some tests to do or bios settings or any help to check and see whats gone wrong and what I need to REPLACE, thanksIf the computer boots and you see the BIOS screen the CPU is working. Perhaps the RAM is faulty and needs checking or re seating.


You were absolutely right, I took the memory out and replaced it and perfect thanks although now I have a bigger problem which I will re-post, thanks very much

when i START my pc the SOUND works properly and aftersometime my sound goes off.and pc also slow.it is very radiculas and i must restart the computer because of sound get back.

operating sys is win XP professional.
last time i did install printer driver.but problem was going before installing printer.
and i hvn't install antivirus and service pack.Need...more...info...gasp

Operating system / antivirus &AMP; antispyware PROTECTION / service packs installed / when did it start HAPPENING / did it ever work right / installed any new software?

Alan <>< What is sound reback ? ?

I am at my computer knowledge end here......I have a Dell DIMENSION 4600 running Windows XP. Just recently we have started getting lines flashing up the screen on some of our word documents and as I stare at this screen sometimes the words and text like shake....(honest, it isn't my eyes). We have tried uninstalling/reinstalling the video drivers and about all we can think of.....anyone have some help?Try that monitor on another computer and another moniter on this one to see where the problem really is.Quote from: GX1_Man on April 29, 2007, 09:08:39 PM

Try that monitor on another computer and another moniter on this one to see where the problem really is.

Welcome Aboard Dell CA...

It's good to know some manuf. are payin attention.

Hey everyone. I seem to have a problem with the standby function on my computer. I'm running on a Windows XP Pro SP2. I have my usb devices (keyboard and mouse) enabled to allow them to get me back from standby, but when i enter standby and press the BUTTONS on my keyboard.. the numlock comes back on but nothing else happens. the light on my monitor remains an orange colour. Also, i remember when i was able to enter standby and the noises on the computer weren't there. Now, it's the same thing as if the computer were running. I don't know what the problem is here.. can anybody help me out? If i need to provide more DETAILS, just tell me to do so. Alright, thanks for any help. Bye now.Bump?..If this is a USB keyboard travel to Control Panel/System/Hardware/Device MANAGER...find the keyboard and all instances of USB roots and hobs...right clik each of them and select Properties/Power Management...un-select "allow Windows to turn this device off to save power".
Re-boot and see what happens.well, i checked, and for that option.. i can't uncheck or check it.. i only have the option to check or uncheck allow this device to bring the computer out of standbyactually, the USB root hubs have that option available, i'll try what you suggested, thanks. hope this workswell, i tried that, it doesn't seem to workIs ACPI enabled in the BIOS ? ?I will try that, thanks. I have my mouse plugged into the usb of my keyboard actually, do you think that has anything to do with it?It could...Alright, alright, i will take everything you said and see what i could do. Thanks a lot for the help. If nothing works... then... i don't know what.. heh. Ok, see ya laterJust in case you come back...What mode are you using to enter standby?? from what you described it is S3...do all your perhiperals support this?Erm tell me you hits Esc... at least one I don't know what mode i'm using to enter standby, and i don't know what S3 means.. and i've been able to enter proper standby before.. and yes, i've clicked esc There are generally 2 modes of standby...S1 and S3...S1 just shuts down your CD drives and HDD's, Graphics system and cards, and leaves most of your FANS running, .i.e, Case fans. But S3 is more complicated, It shuts down everything except for the RAM, which it keeps just enough juice in to keep its memory, and resumes from that...

So from that you should be able to tell which one it is

Will adding a cooling fan to my computer add life to it. If so is the CPU the best and only componet that needs cooling i.e. power box, HD, CPU, disc drives, DVD etc.
Also if I add one will the normal power plug work that is already coming from the power unit. My computer is two years old and I would like for it to last another two atleast.You don't need to add any extra fans unless too much heat is accumulating inside the PC case.

A case fan is connected to the motherboard, but some power supplies allow for a direct CONNECTION with case fans.

HDD's are cooled by special HDD coolers, either passively or actively. There are no CD/DVD coolers.

The best way to keep your PC cool is by cleaning it thoroughly and making sure no dust gets in..Clean the dust off the fan and heatsink ...... [ventilation_even air flow] are all you need. I would worry about CPU degradation if you plan on keeping it for over 6-7 years ( actually by that time you'll probably upgrade). And that all depends on the brand and model of a CPU and its (TDP) thermal design power values from the manufacture.

What are you running under the hood?

This can check for you

CPU-z:

http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php

If you're going to buy a fan by one with high CFM and low DBA....


http://www.jab-tech.com/
http://www.svc.com/
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/

Cheap 1st class USPS shipping --2day

Thanks, you are right I will probably be upgrading in the next year or two so if you think I am good to go until then I will leave well enough alone. I do some housecleaning as soon as I get back home. Thanks again.Besides your CPU fan and power supply fan, how many other fans, i.e. case fans, do you have? That's pertinent info in this matter. As Raptor, said, you can get special cooling fans such as HDD coolers, but everything inside your computer is going to benefit from good air flow through the case and that requires some case fans installed to move air in the right direction. Typically you might have one case fan up front to draw air into case and one case fan on back which exhausts warm air.

Do you have any idea what you CPU temperature normally runs? If not, a good freeware tool to give you temperature readings is SpeedFan.Thanks but I don't know the temp of the CPU and don't know to many people who do. I think I will pass on the download because the less extranious software I have on my box the better I like it. Thanks for the advice though I think I'll leave things as is. Lots of people are interested in temps, and the rest should be. Speedfan is a small and useful utility, so no reason not to. I wonder why you asked for advice without intention of taking what was offered. Well, that's good that you don't install just any software knowingly. You can always get a rough idea of your temps in the BIOS.... though accuracy varies from BIOS to BIOS. Tip: your CPU is under load while in th BIOS.

I know I need to check my temps. I have an 805D overclocked... that's two Prescott cores running at 4Ghz.... they get pretty hot when you give them extra volts ( 1.6v at 4.7Ghz is my max).



Wow that is quit a screamin machine you have there. I will give the BIOS check a shot just to check it out. Thanks again for the advice. This forum is top notch along with all you gurus.Quote

Well, that's good that you don't install just any software knowingly.

so i REMOVED the hardrive out of my old computer. i put it in an enclosure case and made it into and external HD. everything is on there except my pics music and videos. i know there on there because when i check the size of the drive about 60 gigs are being used. i can only find about 15 gigs worth of files, programs etc... WHERES EVERYTHING ELSE??Did your old drive have just one partition, or more?Whats A partition?When your hard drive was still in your computer, if you opened My Computer, or Windows Explorer, your HD was listed there as just one letter C, or more, then one letter, like C, D, or C, D, E?just listed as C drive
I have no CLUE, why would that happen, but let's give it a shot.
Open Windows Explorer. Go TOOLS>Folder Options>View tab, and make sure, you have a checkmark next to "Show hidden files, and folders".They wouldn't happen to be in your My Documents folder??

C:\Documents and Settings\(Old user name here)\My documents

Check that and see if you can get in...you won't be able to if you made it encrypted!!

Kurtis

Hey guys,

heres the problem. When I place even a normal USB Flash disk into my from USB ports nothing happens, no LIGHTS, no nothing. However, when I place my MP3 player in there, with its AAA battery in there, it works fine

Another weird thing is that in the Dev Manager, it shows 3 USB HUBS (CORRECT) but 2 have 3 ports(not 2) and one says it has 6!(The front ones)

i am using a
MSI 648-F NEO-L Mobo
768MB 266 DDR
iCute 0408SL (Silver though) http://icute.com.tw/english/0408SL.html

The back 4 ports have no problems whatsoever but would like the front ones for convenience

KurtisDue to the CHEAP nature of the MBoard manufacturers including yours front panel USB ports are notorious for being underpowered...you probably have one or two free usb headers on your motherboard...

you can get an internal USB hub. you can either get one that installs into the 5.25" drive bay or the 3.5" drive bay.

or, if you don't want to go through the trouble of that, get an external powered USB hub and plug it into one of the back ports. That's what I would do!Quote from: Clippy on October 09, 2007, 01:04:47 PM

That's what I would do!

Hello Everyone,

after my computer had a minor trouble with the winlogon.exe file being corrupted, my computer's Ethernet CardS won't work anymone. I have a P IV 3.2 Ghz with HT , 1GB of RAM, a ATI Radeon 9550 and a Asus P5P800 SE motherboard... The cards once worked in perfect harmony till recently... please help ! More DETAILS please.Oh I forgot to mention : when i go in the device manager , it tells me in the properties window : " Error : driver is damaged or missing, CODE 39". I tried reinstall the intel drivers that came with the motherboard, but I ended out of luck.Code 39 error is usually related to a CD/DVD device...remove them inside Control Panel and re-boot and see what happens.Well, I had installed a new Matshita Cd drive, then when the network card crashed, i removed it. THOUGH the problem still there. Any auggestions ?
Quote from: GX1_Man on April 20, 2007, 07:36:31 PM

More details please.

Code 39 error is usually related to a CD/DVD device...remove them inside Control Panel and re-boot and see what happens.

Code 39. Windows cannot load the device driver for this hardware.

well, i know you can't call what I did troubleshootingbut I've wipped the drive and started from scratch.

Does ANYONE know what CPU socket a Compaq Presario 1700t uses? I just inherited one from my brother, and it is SLOW with 64MB ram and a 593Mhz Pentium III. I am thinking of upgrading both, but not sure about the CPU.

Anyone with any insight to the type and style, as well as a good place to buy, your assistance is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
BrettBelow site offers guarantee on the correct memory.
It appears that is the way to add speed to your
notebook.You should be able to go from 64MB to
512 MB using 2 sticks of ram.

www.crucial.comUpgrading a CPU is not advisable in a laptop unless you are extremely CONFIDENT working INSIDE one.
Apart from the fact everything is squashed together, the extra heat and power requirements of a faster CPU make the upgrade very difficult.
More RAM is the way to go if you want more speed, or a new notebook.Give up on the processor idea, get more RAM. Go to www.crucial.com and see exactly what you NEED.

We have a server (windows server 2003 Enterprise edition) with 160GB HDD.
It has 2 partitions - C: (10GB) and D: (150GB)
There is a FTP site hosted on this server which is associated with D:\.
We are running a batch file from the C drive to backup files from a remote PC to this server and

some users are given access to the FTP site to download/upload files to the server through this

FTP site. The DATA backed up has lifetime retention period

Now the problem is, the amount of data being backed up will cause a disk space problem in near

furture. We can add one more HDD as E drive but how can we manage to grant access to the users?
I need to give them access via the FTP site only and not through \\ of the server.

Please advice

NOTE:- Please direct me to the right thread if this is not the correct oneSurprised you dont have a set of 160GB drives as a Mirrored set for fault tolerance. Sounds like you are running on a single drive.

I had a similar problem with an older Win 2000 Server where the information store of users was HITTING 35GB and we had to add storage, yet we didnt want to have to reconstruct so much.

What I did late one night was Ghost this servers drives using Ghost 2003 and remove the 40GB HD, then install the 120GB HD and push the Ghost image back to it via DVD-R's which I burned using a LG DVD-RW drive that I had to put in place of the regular CD-Rom.

Only thing is that if you have 160GB of data you are looking at a mess load of DVD's. I would suggest Ghosting over a LAN to another system Peer to Peer. The other system will store your image that is created from the server, so you need at least 200Gb space on the system to store the image to be created as well as have its OS reside. Best way to make Ghost 2003 work via Peer to Peer LAN is round up 2 older PCI NICs which Ghost 2003 is bundled with NDIS2 packet drivers for. I use the older 3com and Intel Pro NICs. If you dont have these older PCI 100mbps NICs you can try to find the NDIS2 packet driver for your newer network adapter. You will set one system up as the Master with a static IP such as 192.168.75.1 and the other system as a slave at 192.168.75.2 . You will want to create a folder on the Ghost Image file server named GHOSTIMG or something like that, so that you can navigate to this folder and tell it to drop the image in this folder vs the root of the other system which can be messy. With a 100mbps network peer to peer, I usually can create and push an image back to a system at 15GB in 30 minutes for creation or pushing back to system, so you may be looking at 30Gb per hour of a flooded network, so you may want to do this on an isolated 100mbps switch or hub to avoid congestion as well as keep the speed at maximum communications between your 2003 server and the system taking the image.

Hopefully you can down this system for a good period of time to create the image, remove the drive, then install your larger drive or driver set, and then push the image back to the drive or drives.

To push the image back to your server on the larger drive, you will want to create a PC-DOS Boot disk with a static IP which has the NDIS2 driver for your adapter. Upon booting off this floppy disk, your system will load into the Ghost application. You then navigate to the other system containing your image and select to push the image back to the Windows 2003 Server box but onto a larger drive. Ghost will blat about drive geometry being different, and at this point you can go with the default geometry for partitions C: and D: which will be larger on the larger drive or specify size for each partiton. For best results, stick to the default geometry that Ghost suggests, it is usually a PERCENTAGE, such as if you have a 40Gb drive as C: as 10GB and D: as 30GB, and you upgrade to a 100GB drive the geometry as 25% C: and 75% D: turn into larger partition volumes of 25GB and 75GB.

Also, if you make a mistake, you can always revert back to your 160GB drive and be back up and running for the next mronings users if you hit any unforseen roadblocks through the upgrade!!! Also, word of warning is that I have seen drive upgrades break the Windows Server 2003 HAL ( windows key activation ), so you may have to reactivate 2003 after the upgrade. 2000 is less picky, but MS has 2003 pretty tight to where a minor change forces you to reactivate it with MS. But worst comes worst, you can always pop the 160GB drive back in and be right back to where you were. Thats the best part about this migration method.

Another method, ALTHOUGH dangerous involves Ghost 2003 and installing the larger drive into the system was a slave drive, and clone the 160Gb drive over to the larger drive directly. This is faster than a LAN peer to peer ghost process, BUT if you make the mistake during setup as to which drive is being copied where, you can destroy your data on the 160GB drive that you really dont want to alter. After cloning the drive, you set it as active and master and reboot with the 160Gb taken out of the system, and should be good.

Another alternative is if you have a hard drive duplication work station. This comes in helpful if you have 4 partitions on a drive that needs to be duplicated and Ghost can not create its virtual partition as a 5th partition. I have one of these workstations for some Point Of Sale equipment that is stupidly configured with single drives with 4 partitons C: D: E: and Y:

Hope this helps ... If you have used Ghost 2003, this should be easy.

DaveThanks a lot DaveLembke. I will go through this solution and when time comes I will implement this and at that time I may need your assistance as well

Is there anyway I can contact you directly ?

The quick story is, completely out of the blue, my laptop computer is not detecting my USB mouse in any way at all. It has been working fine, without previous trouble, and now it does not detect it, not on the device manager, not under the mouses, and not with the install new hardware wizard. So I am relegated to the touchpad mouse. I tried unplugging the USB mouse, replugging it, restarting the computer, shutting down the computer, tried different USB ports (which certainly work, since I just had my Mp3 player plugged into one that I tested, and that worked fine). The optical USB mouse still has that blue laser light on, and it illuminates when I move it around, but my computer does not care or acknowledge. I don't have another mouse/computer I can test out, and am not too keen to buying another one.

The long story is... I share this computer with two other people mostly. I don't know what they do on it. Probably nothing too sinister, but regardless of intention, over the past day or so there have been problems. Yesterday, it began when the Windows Welcome screen and fast user switching were mysteriously disabled, so the computer went with the old "classic" login.

I'm pretty sure that when I established the two other accounts on the computer, I made them limited accounts (not POSITIVE about this), and suddenly they were administrator accounts. Hmm. I went to my account, and returned them to limited account status. When I tried to turn the Welcome Screen back on, it told me I had to uninstall Client Services for Netware. I did so, and things seemed to be working. I ran all the virus detecting software on this computer (admittedly not much, since this has been my "minimal use" computer - my "main" computer is out of commission right now): Norton, AdAware, AVG. None of these programs turned up with anything significant, although I can't help but feel some foul play is afoot.

Now today the Welcome Screen and so on seem to work; most everything seems normal. But now the computer does not respond to or detect the USB mouse. In between the time I restored my Welcome Screen, and now, the mouse HAD been working, but now that I return home from work it doesn't.

I checked all of the USB ports in the device manager, and they are in working order.

I am on Windows XP Media Center Edition Version 2002 SP 2.Did you try another mouse?No, I did not try another mouse because I do not have another one to try with... and don't really want to buy a second one if I don't have to. I'd hate to buy another one just to find out this one is fine and it's some other PROBLEM.You see it is hard to tell, with out trying a new mouse, as it could be a software issue (did you wipe anything of the computer pervious to this problem) it could be a hard ware problem such as the mouse is self of maybe even the port could be dead.

But hold up some one could be along with a solutionWell I don't think it's a matter of a dead port, because it still powers the mouse for one (makes it light up and such, though the computer does not respond to it), and I have been ABLE to plug my Mp3 player into all ports just fine, but when I plug my mouse into any port it remains undetected.

The only major change I made was uninstalling Client Services for Netware or whatever, and the mouse worked shortly after that, and the next morning, but when I came home from work it did not work anymore. My sister had be on the computer in between morning and when I came home, though I can't see what she could have done to bust the thing. I ASKED if she was rough with it or something, she said no... and all she really does is go to Facebook and stuff.

It could be a faulty mouse, but assuming that it isn't what ELSE could I try? Are the solutions so destructive that all other possibilities (i.e. dead mouse) must be ruled out first? My boyfriend suggested some kind of "patching," but I don't see how that applies here... but does anyone have any ideas along that vein?

Thanks!Does your computer have PS/2 ports? If so, try using a PS/2 mouse.Look, you asked for advices, you got advices.
Trying another mouse is a step one of troubleshooting, and your basic option.
You can borrow a mouse from a friend, buy one for ten bucks, and if it's not a mouse, return it same day, have your ten bucks back, and be done with it.I do appreciate the advice... but no one (including people in other forums - though this is the only forum I have personally asked for help on) seems to have any non-hardware reasons for why this would happen... ARE there reasons, outside of malfunctioning hardware, for why the mouse wouldn't be detected?Yes...driver, for instance.Shut down and remove the USB mouse.Power up...
Re-install the Touchpad drivers...shut the laptop off and on a few times.
Power down. Plug in the USB mouse and re-boot.
If prompted re-install the USB mouse drivers...Shelled out $30 for a new mouse... still the computer does not recognize it....Only other thing, I can think of is to get PS/2 adapter, and try it in PS/2 port.This is a lot of stuff to buy when I can't help but feel it's gotta be something else. Thanks though.Quote from: Broni on October 11, 2007, 11:20:32 PM

Only other thing, I can think of is to get PS/2 adapter, and try it in PS/2 port.

How can i protect my wireless network from war driver's?

I have changed the default SSID and use Encryption. Is there any more things i should do?1. Make sure remote admin is turned off.
2. Make sure default username and password have been changed
Use a strong password
3. Limit the number of IP address it allows to the minumum needed.
4. Turn off SSID broadcast.
5. Check the active DHCP table. If you see anything there that shouldn't be, Write down the MAC address, delete it, then use MAC address filtering to block it.also, I dont want to know people's views all i want to know; is war-driving illegal?War driving is not illegal unless SOMEONE tries to defeat your security (easily done) or breaks into your computer. There is a gotcha. If someone who is war driving uses your connection to download inapropriate material (child porn), you can be held responsible unless you can prove that you were not the one who did it. See item 4 above. This prevents advertising your presence. If they don't your there they won't use your connection.One thing I want to add - there is no WAY to make your wireless network invulnerable.
The best you can do is make it a harder target than the next nearest one, so that anyone wanting to break into it will give up and look for an easier target.
The security MEASURES suggested above are good ways to help secure it, but just remember that it is not invulnerable.
One last thing - check what encryption you are using, if you're using WEP switch to WPA or WPA2, if you're on WPA see if you can get WPA2 instead.
WEP is easily broken, WPA less so and WPA2 is very hard to break.
If you are on WEP and there is no way to switch, I RECOMMEND upgrading to hardware that supports at least WPA encryption.Quote from: jjbtcp on May 08, 2007, 04:36:55 AM

also, I dont want to know people's views all i want to know; is war-driving illegal?

I bought a COMPONENT to DVI cable to connect to my monitor. The problem is that the cable is DVI-I and it DOESNT fit into the DVI-D port in the back of my monitor. Is there any CONVERTER or adaptor I can use so that the cable fits into the back of the monitor?$35 here: http://www.ramelectronics.net/html/DVI-hdmi_adapt.html#dviidvidvga
You MAY try also REGULAR electronic store. I don't know where you are located, but I bought my cable at CompUSA.

hi i RECENTLY brought a new sound card cause with the old one i could hear anything when i was on the internet but when i went on windows media player the music was PLAYING clearly then i thought it was my speaker so i brought some new ones and it did the same thing no sound when i was on the internet (when i was playing trying to watch a video on you tube i couldn't here nothing) and then i put the sound card in and that was the same has any one got any ideas of what the problem is plz

thank you for reading LUKE That's a long sentence...

OS ?
Browser being used ?
Have you checked both the browser SETTINGS and the settings in Control Panel/Sounds and Multimedia ? ?
Is the volume bar up in WMP or POSSIBLY muted ? ?

A little help here.You can't hear sounds when you're on the internet? Is this just internet-related sounds you can't hear or all sounds in general?

I just got an external 2.5" hard drive and it comes with a usb CABLE where one end has two usb connectors. i'm thinking the extra connector is for additional power, but is it required or recommend? it seems to work fine off of just one connector which is good because it is going in my car, but i just want to MAKE sure.well just ANSWERED my question. drive will power up fully in the car with only one usb. now i need to find a way to take 12v to usb.You're RIGHT, double USB gives you more power, and as for adapter:
http://www.amazon.com/Zip-Linq-12V-Auto-Adapter-ZIPPWR-DC/dp/B000167V50

IT ABOUT TROUBLE SHOOTING IM KINDA NEW AT THIS AND I HAVE A LITTLE KNWOLEDGE ABOUT THIS AND THERE IS NO ONE TO TEACH ME HERE AT WORK... THX FOR THOSE WHO WILL HELP ME..... Welcome to the CH forums.

We come here to help each other but please stop shouting - turn OFF your capslock and post any queries you may have. Don't forget to GIVE details of your hardware and operating system.Like I said in my PM, this is a VERY broad question. There isn't just one simple answer for something like this. If you want to know how to troubleshoot, you need to get as much information as possible and use it to the BEST of your KNOWLEDGE. Where do you work? Don't they have a training program? Not to sound rude or anything, but I'd like to know how you got hired for such a job if you don't know how to do it.This makes me ask. What are you trouble shooting?

I can help you with ,woodpeckers,landscaping,raising
children,shooting a deer,trapping racoons and opossums,
camping,most auto repairs,ETC.....

Hey,

This one has me stumped. I am getting this error message at PXE Boot on this HP Pavilion 6563Z COMPUTER running a Celeron 500 Mhz CPU

PXE-E20: BIOS extended memory copy error

What I have found google searching is a reference to the error, and just that it shouldn't happen .... Nothing on if this happens try that etc. as copied below from a site.

BIOS and BIS Codes
PXE-E20: BIOS extended memory copy error.

This message is displayed if the BIOS extended memory copy service returns an error. This should not happen on a production BIOS.

Trying to RIS this system to Windows 2000 Pro and I have never had a problem like this before with PXE Boot. Usually the problem is setting teh boot order for Network prior to HD and then hitting F12 when DHCP and RIS service allows for PXE Boot. Swapped out NIC with another known good NIC, and also tried a DIFFERENT PCI slot and still same issue. This system is also so old that it doesnt have integrated network adapter. And I have PXE Booted SYSTEMS like Pentium 1 MMX 200 Mhz boxes and had no problems with same adapter, so I know the adapter is not too new for the system.

Network Adapter used is the INTEL Pro 100 + Management PCI NIC with the Intel 82559 MPU chipset.

System runs well on 256MB Ram with 13GB HD and Windows 2000 and Ram is matched pair of PC-100 128MB Sticks. Also it is running off of integrated AGP video, so no conflict between NIC and video.

Thanks for any insight to what may fix this... worst comes worst, I just have to install from OEM CD and install all software manually vs the easy predefined install of RIS image.

speedfan sometimes REPORTS hdd temps incorrectly.

HDD Thermometer is another app to check it against.

http://fileforum.betanews.com/detail/HDD_Thermometer/1112635863/1

Speedfan says my hdd is always at 21 C whereas HDD Thermometer shows around 28 at startup GOING up to around 40-43 after a few hours. My LITTLE Shuttle does run WARM, I know. It has an alert at 50 and critical warning at 60.

I have 7-year-old laptop and the brightness on the monitor went almost completely dark. I have tried doing the fn/brightness/increase key but to no avail. This happened once before and the brightness came back suddenly. I am still able to barely make out some of images on monitor but not able to even see the cursor. Really need to fix brightness.Do you have external monitor? Monitor from desktop computer, for example?

Try connecting external monitor to computer to laptop and check out image quality. Maybe it is just laptop monitor problem. Maybe it is just graphics card problem?

Maybe you want to take laptop to computer store for help? Computer is kind of old...Your screen inverter has probably failed.
This is the component that actually boosts the power to your screen to make it bright.
Try the above suggestion, and then try this.
Take out the battery, unplug it from the mains, and hold the power button in for 30 seconds.
Then boot up again, does that help?
If not, take it to a computer store, preferably one that will give you a free quote.
If they say the same as me, that your inverter has failed, you may as well get a new laptop, as repairing this ISSUE involves replacing the screen which will cost as much as, or more, than a new laptop.Quote from: Calum on October 11, 2007, 04:00:16 AM

If not, take it to a computer store, preferably one that will give you a free quote.
If they say the same as me, that your inverter has failed, you may as well get a new laptop, as repairing this issue involves replacing the screen which will cost as much as, or more, than a new laptop.

Well, I have no idea what type of sound CARDS fits in the PCI slots in my EMACHINES. If anyone could help, that would be cool.

I have a t5048.Any PCI sound card will WORK. Be SURE and disable your onboard sound in the BIOS before FIRING up with the new sound card in there.The one for 29.00 us at wally world (walmart) works just fine in my emachine* creative sound blaster se

My ACER laptop running windows me has given up the ghost. In order to free space I deleted some files and must have deleted some of the ME files because it will not boot at all and added to this the battery will not charge! Is there anyway of transferring the files on the hard drive to another hard drive. THANKS in advance.Sure...

Purchase one of these
at any computer STORE...
You can then hook up the laptop drive to any desktop and RETRIEVE your important data...
They're CALLED 2.5" to IDE connectors but if you explain your dilemna they will know what you need.
p.s. Don't let them tell you it cannot be done...

Dear's
I have a PC with intel 440BX2 Se main board it has 450MHz how MUCH this board can support the processorWithout a make and model of the motherboard your guess is as good as ours.

See below.Dear GX_man
it is Intel Quote from: GX1_Man on May 07, 2007, 12:15:54 PM

Without a make and model of the motherboard your guess is as good as ours.

Quote from: GX1_Man on May 07, 2007, 12:15:54 PM

Without a make and model of the motherboard your guess is as good as ours.

Compatible Processors: PENTIUM II, Celeron, Celeron A, Pentium III

Processor Socket: Slot 1

Max Processor Speed: 450 MHz

Good find, WillyW. That appears to be it. And, the info says Max Processor Speed: 450 MHz. So, he's at the max now.

Dear GX_man
it is Intel