24217 + Interview Questions in Hardware in Hardware Page 414 InterviewSolution

20651.	Solve : No Sound Onboard?
Answer» lately my computer has had no sound other than the speaker inside the computer that beeps at start up and such, since i restored it atleast. I have sound built into the motherboard as WELL as a built in speaker, i have tried SPEAKERS and earphones and ALSO installed the reltek ac 97 audio controller with no change please help me What is the MAKE/model of your computer and what operating system are you running?How did you restore it? Did you reinstall your operating system? Check Device Manager for errors. Also go to control panel and select Sounds and Multimedia and then select ADVANCED. Make sure your volume is turned up and none of the mute boxes are checked.

Discussion

20652.	Solve : Monitor won't display anything?
Answer» My monitor only displays the "no signal" message. This started happening a few days ago when I booted my computer and the monitor wouldn't display anything. I was able to fix it by turning off the computer for several minutes and turning it back on, with the monitor suddenly working again. This happened repeatedly over the days until today where the monitor won't display anything even after restarting the computer. I can hear the start up vista sounds from my SPEAKERS, but still the monitor won't show anything. Please help.If your system has a video card and the motherboard has a VGA port etc, try moving to the VGA port on the motherboard when the system is running and you see this behavior. I have seen some issues where the video card becomes disabled and the onboard takes priority. If you only have onboard video, then the GPU may be failing. OPTION there is if your system then has a PCI, AGP, or PCIe slot to INSTALL a video card that should take priority over onboard. For the fact that you dont disturb the cable, and the display comes back after a reboot sometimes, it definately sounds GPU related instead of monitor.Quote from: DaveLembke on August 28, 2011, 05:14:23 PM If your system has a video card and the motherboard has a VGA port etc, try moving to the VGA port on the motherboard when the system is running and you see this behavior. I have seen some issues where the video card becomes disabled and the onboard takes priority. If you only have onboard video, then the GPU may be failing. Option there is if your system then has a PCI, AGP, or PCIe slot to install a video card that should take priority over onboard. For the fact that you dont disturb the cable, and the display comes back after a reboot sometimes, it definately sounds GPU related instead of monitor. Hit right on the head here. 2x this post. If your graphics card isnt getting enough power, then it may fail to boot up. However it still working sometimes sounds more like a BIOS configuration issue.Could just be the power supply not providing enough power. When you boot the computer, does it beep at all? (Single beep is normal, multiple beeps indicates an error based on the beep pattern, no beep indicates something more like a failed piece of critical hardware.) If you get a single beep (indicating the power on self test (POST) has passed), then try a different monitor and see if it displays. If you get multiple beeps, then the board is TRYING to tell you something is wrong. Tell us the model of the motherboard and the pattern you're hearing (it's a series of long and/or short beeps). If you're not getting any beeps at all, first check that the power supply and cables are all firmly connected. Disconnect them all and reconnect them if you have to to be sure. Try booting with unnecessary hardware unplugged (CD/DVD drives, fancy case lighting, etc.). Reseat (pull out and PUT back in) the video card. Make sure it's slot is clear of any dust and (if present) the power cable is firmly connected. Do the same for the memory. If it still won't boot, borrow a known working power supply (of equal or greater wattage) from another computer and try swapping.

20652.

Solve : Monitor won't display anything?

Answer»

My monitor only displays the "no signal" message. This started happening a few days ago when I booted my computer and the monitor wouldn't display anything. I was able to fix it by turning off the computer for several minutes and turning it back on, with the monitor suddenly working again. This happened repeatedly over the days until today where the monitor won't display anything even after restarting the computer. I can hear the start up vista sounds from my SPEAKERS, but still the monitor won't show anything. Please help.If your system has a video card and the motherboard has a VGA port etc, try moving to the VGA port on the motherboard when the system is running and you see this behavior. I have seen some issues where the video card becomes disabled and the onboard takes priority. If you only have onboard video, then the GPU may be failing. OPTION there is if your system then has a PCI, AGP, or PCIe slot to INSTALL a video card that should take priority over onboard.

For the fact that you dont disturb the cable, and the display comes back after a reboot sometimes, it definately sounds GPU related instead of monitor.Quote from: DaveLembke on August 28, 2011, 05:14:23 PM

If your system has a video card and the motherboard has a VGA port etc, try moving to the VGA port on the motherboard when the system is running and you see this behavior. I have seen some issues where the video card becomes disabled and the onboard takes priority. If you only have onboard video, then the GPU may be failing. Option there is if your system then has a PCI, AGP, or PCIe slot to install a video card that should take priority over onboard.

For the fact that you dont disturb the cable, and the display comes back after a reboot sometimes, it definately sounds GPU related instead of monitor.

Hit right on the head here. 2x this post. If your graphics card isnt getting enough power, then it may fail to boot up. However it still working sometimes sounds more like a BIOS configuration issue.Could just be the power supply not providing enough power.

When you boot the computer, does it beep at all? (Single beep is normal, multiple beeps indicates an error based on the beep pattern, no beep indicates something more like a failed piece of critical hardware.)

If you get a single beep (indicating the power on self test (POST) has passed), then try a different monitor and see if it displays. If you get multiple beeps, then the board is TRYING to tell you something is wrong. Tell us the model of the motherboard and the pattern you're hearing (it's a series of long and/or short beeps).

If you're not getting any beeps at all, first check that the power supply and cables are all firmly connected. Disconnect them all and reconnect them if you have to to be sure. Try booting with unnecessary hardware unplugged (CD/DVD drives, fancy case lighting, etc.).

Reseat (pull out and PUT back in) the video card. Make sure it's slot is clear of any dust and (if present) the power cable is firmly connected. Do the same for the memory.

If it still won't boot, borrow a known working power supply (of equal or greater wattage) from another computer and try swapping.

Discussion

20653.	Solve : no active mixer driver installed?
Answer» There is no sound in my computer.when I click on VOLUME control I get the meseg that ther is no active mixer driver installed. :-\I 've been ripping my HAIR for a month nd tried everything i found on net.Please help how can i check WHETHER ther is a sound card in my pc or not. and wat make is de CRD?Look on the back of the case...it if it occupies 1 of the oval slots it's a card...if not it's onboard. Of course you could always open the case as well...I merged your two threads into 1...no need to double POST.

Discussion

20654.	Solve : please help emachine wont power on?
Answer» OK so i got this COMPUTER and it got a virus so i got it fixed. but by the TIME It was done i had brought a new computer.so now i am giving my old one away and when i plug it up it starts to load up then. POOF it turn off and every time i try to turn it on nothing. so what should i do it is a emachine ET1161-07 windows vista 320 gb hard drive and if this is in the rong place then i am sorryNo need to double Post... Topic Closed.

Discussion

20655.	Solve : Wifi card?
Answer» Toshiba satellite A205-S5803 Windows Vista Home Premium SP2 Realtek RTL8187b wireless 802.11b driver date: 6/10/2009 Driver version: 6.1162.610.2009 I am not sure where to put this as there are many problems with the wifi device I have. Lately it's been not recieving wifi signals like it should and the drivers go missing randomly, or STOP functioning. I have to restart my computer to get it up and running again. Last night it kept doing it every 20 mins or so, today it seems to be behaving itself. I have tried searching but can't find the answer i'm looking for. I've done all i can do aside from using my manufacture's disk, which i cannot do as i'm unable to BACK up my files. More detailed idea of the problem. Last night I was trying to do some stuff online, when the internet just stopped working. Connections timed out and the like. In the task bar thing, my internet showed it was still connected with good strength. I was using the ConfigFree tray at the time to reset ip when i need to, and the windows default PROGRAM to select different routers (i have permissions to use 2 different local routers) if one connection fails. ConfigFree LOCKED up and wouldn't allow me to do anything with it, and changing routers did not help either. So all I could do was restart the computer, which I had to do via power button, as it locked up while shutting down (i believe the wifi card itself overheated and locked up, or something along those lines, PERHAPS). After i restarted the connection was good again, but about 20 mins later it happened again, and i went to check the drivers and it said there were no drivers installed at all. So another hard restart and come back with another good connection. It failed again, checked the driver again and it said it was disabled or something like that. Another hard restart and i gave up on it. It did this very randomly. I don't know what to do, could i get some help?

Discussion

20656.	Solve : GREEN 735 Laptop?
Answer» I have a laptop model number GREEN 735. I have tried to find some info on it. So far all I have found is it may be a TROGON. I don't know who made it. I would like to find a manual, or at LEAST some info, on it. It is old. Running Windows 2000. Any body have a clue?A GOOD TOOL to use to find out what HARDWARE you got is Speccy. The latest version of Speccy that will run on Windows 2000 is v.1.05.183 You can download it here: http://www.filehippo.com/download_speccy/8398/Thanks. I will try it. All I could find is that it is a Trogon, whoever they are. I never heard of them before. Trogon Computer Corp. 16624 Edwards Rd., Cerritos, CA 90703, United STATES (888)487-6466, (562)802-8702, (562)802-2879 faxThanks.

Discussion

20657.	Solve : Xp recovery?
Answer» Hi i been trying to make an XP recovery disk for my Laptop because it has missing SYSTEM 32. i had a look at XP Recovery CD Maker but that doesnt work with my other laptop because it cant find windows installation. i also can find any xp recovery ISO files on the web that i can download I have used ERD commander but it couldnt find the OS so it can REPAIR the system I dont want to format the computer because i have some huge IMPORTANT files. Is there an easy way to recovery my xp laptopLet's start at the beginning. What do you mean it is missing system 32?sorry for such a BAD post, my friend is sorting it out now, i am not a fixer but a programmer and these stupid problem does my head in. Quote from: Allan on January 08, 2010, 10:40:13 AM Let's start at the beginning. What do you mean it is missing system 32? probably some file is corrupt or missing from C:\Windows\System32\ folder?

20657.

Solve : Xp recovery?

Answer»

Hi i been trying to make an XP recovery disk for my Laptop because it has missing SYSTEM 32. i had a look at XP Recovery CD Maker but that doesnt work with my other laptop because it cant find windows installation. i also can find any xp recovery ISO files on the web that i can download

I have used ERD commander but it couldnt find the OS so it can REPAIR the system
I dont want to format the computer because i have some huge IMPORTANT files.

Is there an easy way to recovery my xp laptopLet's start at the beginning. What do you mean it is missing system 32?sorry for such a BAD post, my friend is sorting it out now, i am not a fixer but a programmer and these stupid problem does my head in.
Quote from: Allan on January 08, 2010, 10:40:13 AM

Let's start at the beginning. What do you mean it is missing system 32?

probably some file is corrupt or missing from C:\Windows\System32\ folder?

Discussion

20658.	Solve : Internal hard drive no longer being recognized?
Answer» Hi, I decided to move my desks in my room, and move my computer and then clean the computer of all its dust (something I've done many times and never had a problem - I always wear the antistatic band when doing so). Once I had finished clean and moving things, my second (got 2 C drive works fine) hard drive was no longer being recognized. It didn't show up on My Computer or on the motherboard screen (the blue one that comes up when you hit 'Delete' key. It also look a very LONG time for windows to boot up. Firstly taking a very long time on the first screen and then really long on the Windows screen. So what I'm asking is if you know how I can save my hard drive, or is there a way to get all the data of it? - cause I'm doing A levels and I really need that Hard drive before Monday ThanksSATA or IDE ? ? Was it connected back to the original connector after the move ? ? Are you saying the BIOS does not see it EITHER ? ? Double check the connections...you may have missed something... PS. How old is this drive and is there an OS installed on it or just data ? ? Help us help you...It's a SATA drive, I think its this one http://www.amazon.co.uk/Seagate-OEM-Barracuda-7200-12-Internal/dp/B001IKKCLS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1254591831&sr=1-1 I never unplugged the drive (I moved the whole computer and opened it up to get rid of all the dust - but didn't remove any parts only unplugged the computer from the mains) until it wasn't working and I tried to find a different computer to plug it in to but failed cause all the computers in my house are to old. The BIOS only shows my 120Gb hard drive (the C drive with Xp home installed on it). All the connectors are still there, I even tried a different one but nothing worked. I tried to listen for the drive (to see if it's working) but I'm not sure what it sounds like. It's only got data and it's around a 2years old. Put a long pencil or similar instrument with one end touching the drive and the other in your ear and power up... You will be able to hear if it's spinning up or not without pulling it out of the enclosure... If it's spinning up try a new SATA data cable.Okay, I can hear it making a noise. Not sure if that means it's spinning. I did the pencil thing on the C drive and it MADE a different noise. The C drive was more electric sounding and the other drive (broken one) sounded like a control panel from a Sci Fi film. Does this mean its still working? I'm unable to get my hands on a new SATA cable at the moment - but I'll keep looking, may have one in my motherboard box, I just have to find that first. Here are some images that may help The one on the right is a different brand new cable Top Hard drive is working fine That cable is fried...replace it immediately and don't continue to use it. I fear the drive is as well...The hard drive pins are all bent up, too.I have replaced the cable, but new ones don't seem to fit (to loose). I believe the bit in the middle of the broken cable is meant to be on the hard drive. And if you look closely you can see where its meant to be. Have you got any ideas of how I can get the data off the drive? If you believe the drive is broken. I am looking at my spare SATA drive. The plastic shell around the contacts of the hard drive is missing. It could be what's inside the bad cable. That hard drive is DAMAGED beyond repair. You must have stressed that cable pretty hard to break it off. If you are an expert with a soldering iron, you could take the bad cable and attempt to solder them TOGETHER and hope that it will function long enough. If not, take it to a shop and see if they can do it. It could cost $100.Quote from: Computer_Commando on October 03, 2009, 03:06:05 PM If you are an expert with a soldering iron, you could take the bad cable and attempt to solder them together and hope that it will function long enough. Yea only problem is that I tried to get the bit out of the cable by taking it apart, so now that cable is broken. Do you why this has happened? Is it cause my computer sometimes overheats and turns off and when I open it up I can smell burning. Or that my computer its always normally at 48 degrees, even when idle.I suspect at one time the SATA cable was hooked up wrong or forced into the socket incorrectly ...this would account for the burning aroma.I can see exactly why it broke. You or someone pulled down on the cable hard enough to break the plastic shell off. That's the data cable, not the power cable. See how big the power cable is next to it? Take off the data cable on the other hard drive and compare the two. Remove it by wiggling it side to side and not up and down and pull it straight off. OR, pull off the power cable on the bad hard drive, it's the same type as the data but wider. I would do the latter, since you have to remove the bad hard drive, anyway. SATA PinoutOkay thanks guys. So the drive is wrecked. What things can I buy to get the data off it? Cause from the looks of it, its only the connection that broken so the data should be fine, right? And I know the drive still works cause I can hear when I do the pencil test. Quote from: saint_hades on October 03, 2009, 03:33:30 PM ... 1. So the drive is wrecked. 2. What things can I buy to get the data off it? 3. Cause from the looks of it, its only the connection that broken so the data should be fine, right? 4. And I know the drive still works cause I can hear when I do the pencil test. 1. Definitely! 2. Nothing. 3. Only? Isn't that enough? It's analogous to your neck being broken, but the brain still functions. 4. Depends what you mean by "the drive still works". It spins and that's all. Kinda like your neck is broken and the legs and arms don't work, but the heart is still beating. Quote from: Computer_Commando on October 03, 2009, 03:42:15 PM 3. Only? Isn't that enough? It's analogous to your neck being broken, but the brain still functions? If the brain still works then I would be able to get that brain and put in someone else, right? (put it on a different hard drive) Yes, it's possible, if you have the skill of Dr. Frankenstein. There are business that perform this service, but it will probably cost close to $1000. Google "hard drive recovery service".Okay thanks But what I want to know is why did the drive break today? Do you think it was going to break anyway, and that me moving my computer was just a weird coincident that is broke when I did. Or do you think I might have knocked a wire when I was cleaning the inside of my computer. Quote from: saint_hades on October 03, 2009, 04:06:48 PM 1. But what I want to know is why did the drive break today? 2. Do you think it was going to break anyway, and that me moving my computer was just a weird coincident that is broke when I did. 3. Or do you think I might have knocked a wire when I was cleaning the inside of my computer. 1. Connector shell was probably mostly broken and finally fell apart. 2. Could be. 3. Something overstressed it sometime in the past or today. You have to pull on the wire pretty hard to break it like that. Could have happened when it was being built. They are not that fragile. Pull the drive out and look at the remaining connector, then you tell me how hard it is to break it.Well, I'm not going to break the drive any more sorry. The strange thing, I've never taken the cable off that drive until today. So it's been plugged in for around 2 years. Thanks for you help, I know a computer technician who's going to look at it. So I'll tell you how it goes. Cheers It's possible to go on a site such as eBay and look for a controller assembly for that drive and be able to swap it in there to retrieve the data... Problem is the controller has to be from not only an identical drive but also from the same batch/lot production run for this to work... Probability of success ....approx 14%.

20658.

Solve : Internal hard drive no longer being recognized?

Answer»

Hi,
I decided to move my desks in my room, and move my computer and then clean the computer of all its dust (something I've done many times and never had a problem - I always wear the antistatic band when doing so).
Once I had finished clean and moving things, my second (got 2 C drive works fine) hard drive was no longer being recognized. It didn't show up on My Computer or on the motherboard screen (the blue one that comes up when you hit 'Delete' key.
It also look a very LONG time for windows to boot up. Firstly taking a very long time on the first screen and then really long on the Windows screen.

So what I'm asking is if you know how I can save my hard drive, or is there a way to get all the data of it? - cause I'm doing A levels and I really need that Hard drive before Monday
ThanksSATA or IDE ? ?
Was it connected back to the original connector after the move ? ?
Are you saying the BIOS does not see it EITHER ? ?
Double check the connections...you may have missed something...

PS. How old is this drive and is there an OS installed on it or just data ? ?

Help us help you...It's a SATA drive, I think its this one http://www.amazon.co.uk/Seagate-OEM-Barracuda-7200-12-Internal/dp/B001IKKCLS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1254591831&sr=1-1

I never unplugged the drive (I moved the whole computer and opened it up to get rid of all the dust - but didn't remove any parts only unplugged the computer from the mains) until it wasn't working and I tried to find a different computer to plug it in to but failed cause all the computers in my house are to old.

The BIOS only shows my 120Gb hard drive (the C drive with Xp home installed on it).

All the connectors are still there, I even tried a different one but nothing worked.

I tried to listen for the drive (to see if it's working) but I'm not sure what it sounds like.

It's only got data and it's around a 2years old. Put a long pencil or similar instrument with one end touching the drive and the other in your ear and power up...
You will be able to hear if it's spinning up or not without pulling it out of the enclosure...

If it's spinning up try a new SATA data cable.Okay, I can hear it making a noise. Not sure if that means it's spinning.

I did the pencil thing on the C drive and it MADE a different noise. The C drive was more electric sounding and the other drive (broken one) sounded like a control panel from a Sci Fi film.

Does this mean its still working?

I'm unable to get my hands on a new SATA cable at the moment - but I'll keep looking, may have one in my motherboard box, I just have to find that first. Here are some images that may help

The one on the right is a different brand new cable

Top Hard drive is working fine

That cable is fried...replace it immediately and don't continue to use it.

I fear the drive is as well...The hard drive pins are all bent up, too.I have replaced the cable, but new ones don't seem to fit (to loose). I believe the bit in the middle of the broken cable is meant to be on the hard drive. And if you look closely you can see where its meant to be.

Have you got any ideas of how I can get the data off the drive? If you believe the drive is broken. I am looking at my spare SATA drive. The plastic shell around the contacts of the hard drive is missing. It could be what's inside the bad cable.

That hard drive is DAMAGED beyond repair. You must have stressed that cable pretty hard to break it off.

If you are an expert with a soldering iron, you could take the bad cable and attempt to solder them TOGETHER and hope that it will function long enough.

If not, take it to a shop and see if they can do it. It could cost $100.Quote from: Computer_Commando on October 03, 2009, 03:06:05 PM

If you are an expert with a soldering iron, you could take the bad cable and attempt to solder them together and hope that it will function long enough.

Yea only problem is that I tried to get the bit out of the cable by taking it apart, so now that cable is broken.

Do you why this has happened?
Is it cause my computer sometimes overheats and turns off and when I open it up I can smell burning. Or that my computer its always normally at 48 degrees, even when idle.I suspect at one time the SATA cable was hooked up wrong or forced into the socket incorrectly ...this would account for the burning aroma.I can see exactly why it broke. You or someone pulled down on the cable hard enough to break the plastic shell off. That's the data cable, not the power cable. See how big the power cable is next to it? Take off the data cable on the other hard drive and compare the two. Remove it by wiggling it side to side and not up and down and pull it straight off. OR, pull off the power cable on the bad hard drive, it's the same type as the data but wider. I would do the latter, since you have to remove the bad hard drive, anyway.

SATA PinoutOkay thanks guys.

So the drive is wrecked.
What things can I buy to get the data off it? Cause from the looks of it, its only the connection that broken so the data should be fine, right? And I know the drive still works cause I can hear when I do the pencil test.
Quote from: saint_hades on October 03, 2009, 03:33:30 PM

...
1. So the drive is wrecked.
2. What things can I buy to get the data off it?
3. Cause from the looks of it, its only the connection that broken so the data should be fine, right?
4. And I know the drive still works cause I can hear when I do the pencil test.

1. Definitely!
2. Nothing.
3. Only? Isn't that enough? It's analogous to your neck being broken, but the brain still functions.
4. Depends what you mean by "the drive still works". It spins and that's all. Kinda like your neck is broken and the legs and arms don't work, but the heart is still beating.
Quote from: Computer_Commando on October 03, 2009, 03:42:15 PM

3. Only? Isn't that enough? It's analogous to your neck being broken, but the brain still functions?

If the brain still works then I would be able to get that brain and put in someone else, right? (put it on a different hard drive) Yes, it's possible, if you have the skill of Dr. Frankenstein.
There are business that perform this service, but it will probably cost close to $1000.

Google "hard drive recovery service".Okay thanks

But what I want to know is why did the drive break today?
Do you think it was going to break anyway, and that me moving my computer was just a weird coincident that is broke when I did.
Or do you think I might have knocked a wire when I was cleaning the inside of my computer. Quote from: saint_hades on October 03, 2009, 04:06:48 PM

1. But what I want to know is why did the drive break today?
2. Do you think it was going to break anyway, and that me moving my computer was just a weird coincident that is broke when I did.
3. Or do you think I might have knocked a wire when I was cleaning the inside of my computer.

1. Connector shell was probably mostly broken and finally fell apart.
2. Could be.
3. Something overstressed it sometime in the past or today. You have to pull on the wire pretty hard to break it like that. Could have happened when it was being built. They are not that fragile.

Pull the drive out and look at the remaining connector, then you tell me how hard it is to break it.Well, I'm not going to break the drive any more sorry.

The strange thing, I've never taken the cable off that drive until today. So it's been plugged in for around 2 years.

Thanks for you help, I know a computer technician who's going to look at it. So I'll tell you how it goes.

Cheers
It's possible to go on a site such as eBay and look for a controller assembly for that drive and be able to swap it in there to retrieve the data...
Problem is the controller has to be from not only an identical drive but also from the same batch/lot production run for this to work...

Probability of success ....approx 14%.

Discussion

20659.	Solve : Time Changes automatically?
Answer» Hello friends, I have an Issue with my system. As i have Installed Xp sp2 in my machine, and Mercury motherboard. Now my issue is whenever i switch on my machine it Shows "American Megatrends" Screen and asks me to Set the correct time. When i enter into the Bios setting time shows as 00:00:00 and date as 01:01:2004. Even if i change the time and date,after i restarts my system it shows same problem. Please help me to overcome from this issue. GET a new cmos BATTERY. They look like this Assuming that it is desktop, some laptops have got the battery soldered into it, with two wires connecting it to motherboard.Quote from: luck of the irish on August 31, 2011, 03:54:03 PM Assuming that it is desktop Quote from: The OP Mercury motherboard

20659.

Solve : Time Changes automatically?

Answer»

Hello friends,

I have an Issue with my system. As i have Installed Xp sp2 in my machine, and Mercury motherboard. Now my issue is whenever i switch on my machine it Shows "American Megatrends" Screen and asks me to Set the correct time. When i enter into the Bios setting time shows as
00:00:00 and date as 01:01:2004. Even if i change the time and date,after i restarts my system it shows same problem. Please help me to overcome from this issue. GET a new cmos BATTERY. They look like this

Assuming that it is desktop, some laptops have got the battery soldered into it, with two wires connecting it to motherboard.Quote from: luck of the irish on August 31, 2011, 03:54:03 PM

Assuming that it is desktop

Quote from: The OP

Mercury motherboard

Discussion

20660.	Solve : physical difference btween pci and pci express?
Answer» By looking at a pci and a pci EXPRESS SLOT can the difference be noticed?YesThe slot HEADERS are different...Here is a very nice pictoral representation. http://www.neteon.net/PDFFiles/Difference_between_PCI_and_PCI_Express.pdf truenorth PCI Express slots (from top to BOTTOM: ×4, ×16, ×1 and ×16), compared to a TRADITIONAL 32-bit PCI slot (bottom).

Discussion

20661.	Solve : upgrading hard drive?
Answer» I need to replace my c drive as it is getting a BIT OLD, I have an expansion drive, but really need something new and a bit bigger than the 10GB. The mechanics I am OK with, but I am unsure about getting the new drive to WORK with my computer. Do I need to back up to my expansion drive, then physically replace my old drive install the new, then boot up from expansion drive. Not quiet sure could someone help me? regards smurfsboy.You have a couple of choices. You can clone your drive or create an IMAGE (using disk imaging software). Then remove the drive, install the new one, and boot to the disc you created and restore the image to the new drive. Alternatively, you can back up critical data to the external drive, install the new drive and start from scratch (install the OS and then COPY the data back from the external drive).

Discussion

20662.	Solve : Setup Display with Standard VGA Driver - Video Card Installation Error?
Answer» I recently bought a video card and installed it into my computer. However, every time I try to install the SOFTWARE, I get this message: Quote Setup was UNABLE to complete the installation. Try to setup your display adapter with a standard VGA driver before RUNNING setup. I'm completely confused because I'm using a standard VGA driver. Windows automatically installed it after I disabled my integrated graphics. I can't figure this problem out and get the video card to work on my computer so any tips would be hugely appreciated. Video Card Info: Video card: Visiontek 900089 Radeon 7000 Video Card (64MB, PCI, w/DVI/TV-OUT) from TigerDirect.ca Software: VisionTek 6.4 Radeon / ATI System Info: Windows 7 Manufacturer: Acer Processor: AMD Athlon(tm) Processor LE-1640 2.70 GHz Installed memory (RAM): 1.00 GB (895 MB usable) System TYPE: 32-bit Operating System Screenshots: Have you tried downloading the latest driver for the hardware, and use device manager to install it (go to update driver and click browse and point it to the folder)

20662.

Solve : Setup Display with Standard VGA Driver - Video Card Installation Error?

Answer»

I recently bought a video card and installed it into my computer. However, every time I try to install the SOFTWARE, I get this message:

Quote

Setup was UNABLE to complete the installation.
Try to setup your display adapter with a standard VGA driver before RUNNING setup.

I'm completely confused because I'm using a standard VGA driver. Windows automatically installed it after I disabled my integrated graphics.

I can't figure this problem out and get the video card to work on my computer so any tips would be hugely appreciated.

Video Card Info:
Video card: Visiontek 900089 Radeon 7000 Video Card (64MB, PCI, w/DVI/TV-OUT) from TigerDirect.ca
Software: VisionTek 6.4 Radeon / ATI

System Info:
Windows 7
Manufacturer: Acer
Processor: AMD Athlon(tm) Processor LE-1640 2.70 GHz
Installed memory (RAM): 1.00 GB (895 MB usable)
System TYPE: 32-bit Operating System

Screenshots:

Have you tried downloading the latest driver for the hardware, and use device manager to install it (go to update driver and click browse and point it to the folder)

Discussion

20663.	Solve : Switched computer case, no longer starts?
Answer» Quote from: Coming_down on January 08, 2010, 01:51:07 PM one side is magnetic One side of what? Quote from: Coming_down on January 08, 2010, 01:51:07 PM Although I.m still not quite sure on the mounts You just won't be told, will you? The instructions are "rubbish" (They say "use the standoffs") We tell you "use the standoffs" (You don't BELIEVE us) You changed the case because you were "bored"... You must have a load of money to waste. And what's this "magnetic" stuff? Oh, I completely intend to use the stand offs. And, I hope I don't sound ungrateful, because I appreciate all the help you've given me a great deal. I just don't -understand- the stand offs. I've always just screwed the motherboard down, and bam that's that. The BRASS stand offs I have have a tiny screw on one side and ire magnetic on the otherside. So does that mean I screw it in from underneath the motherbooard, and let the magnets keep it in place? I have no idea. Never seen them used. Standoffs are so usual, I don't know what you mean when you say you never saw them used before. ALSO, we must be using different versions of the English language, because in my universe, only ferrous metals such as iron and steel can be magnetic, and never brass. He's Bored and enjoys this: [Saving space, attachment DELETED by admin]I think he's making it up about the magnets. Well you are right. They're not magnetic. I thought they were, not sure why, but they're not. Still it doesn't change the fact the none of my old cases (all themaltake.) have ever used them before and so I don't know how to use them. However at this point, I'm just going to say thanks for your help; I've learned a lot, and I'll figure the rest out myself. Some Techs call them spacers.

20663.

Solve : Switched computer case, no longer starts?

Answer»

Quote from: Coming_down on January 08, 2010, 01:51:07 PM

one side is magnetic

One side of what?

Quote from: Coming_down on January 08, 2010, 01:51:07 PM

Although I.m still not quite sure on the mounts

You just won't be told, will you? The instructions are "rubbish" (They say "use the standoffs") We tell you "use the standoffs" (You don't BELIEVE us) You changed the case because you were "bored"... You must have a load of money to waste.

And what's this "magnetic" stuff?

Oh, I completely intend to use the stand offs. And, I hope I don't sound ungrateful, because I appreciate all the help you've given me a great deal. I just don't -understand- the stand offs. I've always just screwed the motherboard down, and bam that's that. The BRASS stand offs I have have a tiny screw on one side and ire magnetic on the otherside. So does that mean I screw it in from underneath the motherbooard, and let the magnets keep it in place? I have no idea. Never seen them used. Standoffs are so usual, I don't know what you mean when you say you never saw them used before. ALSO, we must be using different versions of the English language, because in my universe, only ferrous metals such as iron and steel can be magnetic, and never brass.
He's Bored and enjoys this:

[Saving space, attachment DELETED by admin]I think he's making it up about the magnets.
Well you are right. They're not magnetic. I thought they were, not sure why, but they're not. Still it doesn't change the fact the none of my old cases (all themaltake.) have ever used them before and so I don't know how to use them. However at this point, I'm just going to say thanks for your help; I've learned a lot, and I'll figure the rest out myself. Some Techs call them spacers.

Discussion

20664.	Solve : Master vs Cable Select??
Answer» Interesting.....so is it possible that with the HDD being the only device connected to the IDE cable and being jumpered as cable select (where it should not have been jumpered at all) may have confused the system and thus the strange WAY I had to reload XP? Perhaps the HDD is not on its way out? Another interesting (at least to me) thing I found while looking at new HDD's is that some of the SATA's do not have a Molex (legacy) power jack on them but instead a SATA style power connector. For people who purchase one of these HDD's would be in for a suprise if they do not have any SATA power connectors on their PSU. I assume the are adapters that convert the Molex to the SATA style power connector?!?Quote from: Puter Moron on January 06, 2010, 04:08:20 PM I also tried running checkdisk from the recovery console and when it was done it gave a message to the effect that it had finished and did not display any kind of results. 1. You may use Microsoft's "event viewer" to locate result of previous chkdsk execution. See below to access. Quote Open Start, Run, type (without QUOTES) 'eventvwr.msc' and click OK. Select the Application report and examine all the events with the 'Winlogon' source. Posted by "Daniel Martín" in thread CHKDSK produce a Log ? ---------------------------- Quote from: Puter Moron on January 06, 2010, 10:13:49 PM Interesting.....so is it possible that with the HDD being the only device connected to the IDE cable and being jumpered as cable select (where it should not have been jumpered at all) may have confused the system and thus the strange way I had to reload XP? 2. I don't KNOW. I would have thought setting hard drive "jumper" to "Single" would have been the "safe" bet given all the caveats necessary for cable select to work properly. Again see http://www.mikeshardware.com/howtos/howto_connect_ide_hd.html. -------------------------------------- Quote from: Puter Moron on January 06, 2010, 10:13:49 PM I assume the are adapters that convert the Molex to the SATA style power connector?!? 3. Yes there are.While looking at new HDD's it appears the SATA's have a transfer rate of 300MB/second and my Mboard has a SATA transfer rate of 150MB/second. It this going to be an issue? Or will the new HDD transfer at the rate of the Mboard? You can go ahead and buy the new drive. These new technologies are made to be backwards compatible inside of this class. If not, there would be some kind of warning or caution that would be published. Case in point, when they WENT to the newer type of AGP cards they had to give a warning that there was a voltage problem with the older AGP slots. Of course, that had nothing to do with hard drives. The three MAJOR categories of hard drives are the original parallel interface, the new serial interface, and a type of interface that we call the SCSI.It will operate at the board's speed...

20664.

Solve : Master vs Cable Select??

Answer»

Interesting.....so is it possible that with the HDD being the only device connected to the IDE cable and being jumpered as cable select (where it should not have been jumpered at all) may have confused the system and thus the strange WAY I had to reload XP? Perhaps the HDD is not on its way out?

Another interesting (at least to me) thing I found while looking at new HDD's is that some of the SATA's do not have a Molex (legacy) power jack on them but instead a SATA style power connector. For people who purchase one of these HDD's would be in for a suprise if they do not have any SATA power connectors on their PSU. I assume the are adapters that convert the Molex to the SATA style power connector?!?Quote from: Puter Moron on January 06, 2010, 04:08:20 PM

I also tried running checkdisk from the recovery console and when it was done it gave a message to the effect that it had finished and did not display any kind of results.

1. You may use Microsoft's "event viewer" to locate result of previous chkdsk execution. See below to access.
Quote

Open Start, Run, type (without QUOTES) 'eventvwr.msc' and click OK. Select the Application report and examine all the events with the 'Winlogon' source.

Posted by "Daniel Martín" in thread CHKDSK produce a Log ?

----------------------------
Quote from: Puter Moron on January 06, 2010, 10:13:49 PM

Interesting.....so is it possible that with the HDD being the only device connected to the IDE cable and being jumpered as cable select (where it should not have been jumpered at all) may have confused the system and thus the strange way I had to reload XP?

2. I don't KNOW. I would have thought setting hard drive "jumper" to "Single" would have been the "safe" bet given all the caveats necessary for cable select to work properly. Again see http://www.mikeshardware.com/howtos/howto_connect_ide_hd.html.

--------------------------------------
Quote from: Puter Moron on January 06, 2010, 10:13:49 PM

I assume the are adapters that convert the Molex to the SATA style power connector?!?

3. Yes there are.While looking at new HDD's it appears the SATA's have a transfer rate of 300MB/second and my Mboard has a SATA transfer rate of 150MB/second. It this going to be an issue? Or will the new HDD transfer at the rate of the Mboard? You can go ahead and buy the new drive. These new technologies are made to be backwards compatible inside of this class. If not, there would be some kind of warning or caution that would be published. Case in point, when they WENT to the newer type of AGP cards they had to give a warning that there was a voltage problem with the older AGP slots. Of course, that had nothing to do with hard drives. The three MAJOR categories of hard drives are the original parallel interface, the new serial interface, and a type of interface that we call the SCSI.It will operate at the board's speed...

Discussion

20665.	Solve : Unusual resolution problem?
Answer» Alright, so I was messing around with some games and their resolutions because they would appear off (black bar on the right side of the screen). During this my desktop resolution messed up as well and began displaying the black bar. After a few minutes the input dropped and it displayed the message "Cannot display video mode, change computer input to 1360 x 768" despite my resolution already being at 1360x768. Now my problem is this; I can change my resolution to anything, higher or lower, but 1360 x 768 (the native res) because when I do I get a black screen with the message: "Cannot display video mode, change computer input to 1360 x 768" There was also a situation where, after changing to a different VGA cable, the 1360x768 resolution displayed for about ten seconds before the above message displayed.I know it is a LONG shot, but did yu by any chance change the frequency of the resolutions? usually most laptop/desktop screens operate best at 60Hz. Please advise on which operating system you are running and we can give you DETAILED instructions on how to check/change it I think Kurtiskain is right, it SOUNDS like the refresh rate is set to something the monitor can't display. What is the make and model of the screen you're using? Also, what is the make and model of the video card? Usually it is 60Hz, but not always. Oddly enough, my screen is 50Hz. Either the manual that came with the screen or the manufacturer's website will have information about what the refresh rate should be. Oh, also try setting it in safe mode and see if it works any better.I've tried changing the refresh rate. 60Hz is what I had it set to before. I'm using an old 23'' Dell W2306C (LCD tv/Monitor). Never had a problem running it 1360x768 @ 60Hz until recently. Honestly can't think of why it wont display this one resolution.Well, I downloaded the service manual and can confirm that it is definitely 1360 x [emailprotected] How is it connected to the computer? DVI or the older D-Sub 15 pin VGA connector? Also, what model is your video card? You might check that both the Windows display settings and the video card's setting match (this usually happens automatically).Ok, a little more information. I did some looking around and found a number of threads on Dell's support site about W2306C screens and DVI refresh rate problems with computers. PEOPLE reported shaky or wobbly displays and even issues like your own where they couldn't get it to display in the native resolution. Some people switched to VGA cables instead and had no issues. One fix several people have said worked for them to use DVI was to go into the screen's menus and reset it to factory settings. Even if you've never changed anything, try this and see if it works for you. Despite the great number of threads on DVI issues with this TV, people are also reporting that when they talk to Dell, they are simply told that Dell has never heard of this issue. However, Dell did confirm there is a power issue with this model that for some people causes the TV to just shut off periodically. Just a little FYI, in case yours ever starts doing that.I have a HD 5850 and I'm connecting with VGA through a DVI adapter to the GPU. I've already tried resetting to factory settings with no luck.Have you tried reinstalling your Video driver?

Discussion

20666.	Solve : hard disk get hot?
Answer» why my hard disk get HOT while my CPU TEMPERATURE always touch 40C and hard disk always rise,in core 2 dual processor,It is as technical problem with the hardware .you should get a good cooling system to your pc .

Discussion

20667.	Solve : Graphics card vanished?
Answer» I just lost a fight with a very tenacious virus that forced me to reformat my computer (blue screen on every start up). Everything was going good, got XP (SP1) installed on the machine just fine, but now nothing seems to be ABLE to see my graphics card (I can't find it in device manager, in desktop properties or with DirectX). I have a gForce 240 and no MONEY to purchase a new card. I'd really like some help to try and figure out if this is just some simple problem and not an utterly destroyed graphics card. My sound and internet work just fine, and I am on said computer right now, but the graphics card just seems to have vanished from my system's radar.Graphics card needs drivers to function. http://www.nvidia.com/object/winxp-280.26-whql-driver.htmlYes I am aware. The issue isn't that the graphics card isn't functioning, its that the system doesn't seem to acknowledge that it is even there. Attempts to install drivers fail, and no hardware analysis reveals the presence of the card. I have actually downloaded and attempted to install the very driver you linked to prior to coming here. Fails to install.Download & install the driver & software at the link provided. Install SP3 first.... and it looks like Service Pack 3 was the issue! I never would have THOUGHT that would be a factor, thank you very much for your time.

Discussion

20668.	Solve : iomega External HD not working; beeping?
Answer» I have an iomega 160 GB external hard drive I was using as a Time Machine volume on my Mac. I reformatted it to FAT so I could move files to my new Win7 Thinkpad at college. I got a new USB CORD and plugged it in. It chirps/beeps, sometimes slow, sometimes fast, sometimes depending on if i move the drive. The computer does not recognize it; any help? I'm worried that it may have been damaged when it went through the airport x-ray machine. I don't want to format it, since I'd have to travel 3000 MILES to get my files back.If this is one of those drives that is powered thru the USB CABLE, try a new USB cable. Moving it and hearing a difference to me sounds like the cable when flexed a certain way is giving it just a hair more juice at times etc. If the cable DOESNT resolve the issue and you also try a different USB port, then it could be a damaged drive. Although airport x-ray woudnt affect it as much as say it taking a hard hit in transport.I found the manual online. The USB cable it shipped with was special: it attached to two ports on the computer, one for power, one for data. It also said beeping meant it wasn't getting enough power through the data connection alone. Therefore I'll need to get another of this cord at the store when it opens tomorrow. IMHO, those drives are junk. Cheaper to get a new & different drive, look for a self-powered notebook drive, Western Digital or Seagate. Here's one on sale this week. Western Digital - My Passport Essential 500GB External USB 3.0/2.0 Portable Hard Drive - Pacific Blue Quote from: 3Davideo on August 28, 2011, 06:12:34 PM I found the manual online. The USB cable it shipped with was special: it attached to two ports on the computer, one for power, one for data. It also said beeping meant it wasn't getting enough power through the data connection alone. Therefore I'll need to get another of this cord at the store when it opens tomorrow. That's exactly the problem. I have a Maxtor drive that requires the two port cable. It does the same thing if I forget to plug in the other cable or plug it into an unpowered USB hub. The cable isn't too hard to find usually (at least not where I live). If you can't find one in a shop, Newegg.com has one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200791 Most of these drives are a USB mini-B on the hard drive end, but you will want to double check that, because some aren't (like my Western Digital external, which is USB micro-B). If yours is a micro-B and not a mini-B, you'll want this cable: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200832 If you're not sure which yours is, post the model number or a picture of the port of the drive itself so we can help you identify which cable it is. If it's more than a few years old, it's probably a mini-B though.Sure the drive might be junk, but I have files on it. And I go to a techie school and they have a computer store/center on campus, they should have it.

20668.

Solve : iomega External HD not working; beeping?

Answer»

I have an iomega 160 GB external hard drive I was using as a Time Machine volume on my Mac. I reformatted it to FAT so I could move files to my new Win7 Thinkpad at college. I got a new USB CORD and plugged it in. It chirps/beeps, sometimes slow, sometimes fast, sometimes depending on if i move the drive. The computer does not recognize it; any help?

I'm worried that it may have been damaged when it went through the airport x-ray machine. I don't want to format it, since I'd have to travel 3000 MILES to get my files back.If this is one of those drives that is powered thru the USB CABLE, try a new USB cable. Moving it and hearing a difference to me sounds like the cable when flexed a certain way is giving it just a hair more juice at times etc. If the cable DOESNT resolve the issue and you also try a different USB port, then it could be a damaged drive. Although airport x-ray woudnt affect it as much as say it taking a hard hit in transport.I found the manual online. The USB cable it shipped with was special: it attached to two ports on the computer, one for power, one for data. It also said beeping meant it wasn't getting enough power through the data connection alone. Therefore I'll need to get another of this cord at the store when it opens tomorrow. IMHO, those drives are junk. Cheaper to get a new & different drive, look for a self-powered notebook drive, Western Digital or Seagate. Here's one on sale this week.
Western Digital - My Passport Essential 500GB External USB 3.0/2.0 Portable Hard Drive - Pacific Blue
Quote from: 3Davideo on August 28, 2011, 06:12:34 PM

I found the manual online. The USB cable it shipped with was special: it attached to two ports on the computer, one for power, one for data. It also said beeping meant it wasn't getting enough power through the data connection alone. Therefore I'll need to get another of this cord at the store when it opens tomorrow.

That's exactly the problem. I have a Maxtor drive that requires the two port cable. It does the same thing if I forget to plug in the other cable or plug it into an unpowered USB hub.

The cable isn't too hard to find usually (at least not where I live). If you can't find one in a shop, Newegg.com has one:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200791

Most of these drives are a USB mini-B on the hard drive end, but you will want to double check that, because some aren't (like my Western Digital external, which is USB micro-B).

If yours is a micro-B and not a mini-B, you'll want this cable:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200832

If you're not sure which yours is, post the model number or a picture of the port of the drive itself so we can help you identify which cable it is. If it's more than a few years old, it's probably a mini-B though.Sure the drive might be junk, but I have files on it. And I go to a techie school and they have a computer store/center on campus, they should have it.

Discussion

20669.	Solve : My HDD is very unstable or what??
Answer» does this mean the first 40 GB of my disk is faster, and the slower and slower the end sectors are. Is this decresing speed normal, or my hdd is not good. What is avg read/WRITE speed of today's 5000rpm, 7200, 10000 rpm and SolidState Disks. Thank youDue to the platters spinning and the inner track spinning slower than the outer track of the platter, you do see a difference, ALTHOUGH its usually not that bad. The drive is not a variable speed drive, spinning at a somewhat constant speed. The bits are read more frequently at the outside track of the platters, while as you reach the inner track of the platter where its spinning slower in reference to the head, a maximum binary compression is finally reached where binary data is slower to be read because it is coming into position to be read slower. I feel that is why you are seeing this slope of range addressed meeting at the 160gb mark. Floppy disks way back on IBM drives were Fixed Speed, while Apple decided to use a Variable Speed Drive to squeeze in more data. If the hard drive was variable speed your data read would be a somewhat flat line of constant read speed. Some history if your interested here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Macintosh_External_Disk_Drive If you ran this drive bench mark on a solid state, you would probably get that flat line of a constant data speed since all data is immediately addressable vs a drive that is spinning and the lead edge of the data has to come into position to be read on a spinning drive, and if fragmented on the platter the drive will have to spin not just one revolution to read in the binary string, but address other areas of the disk and other revolutions will be needed to assemble all the data as a whole for that one file you are addressing. That is why defragmenting on a regular hard drive is a good thing to do and fragmentation degrades performance and overworks your hard drive. BTW: Which benchmark utility is this one...never seen it before?Have your friends try the same utility. Specs given by the manufacturers are calculated AVERAGE tines. For some drives what you have may be typical. Getting deep into Hard Drive Design is beyond the general scope of this forum. In general, you will get better performance if the drive is not full. And the OS will start busing the outer edge of the drive first. As to the real read and write speed, that can be a proprietary thing with the manufacture. They can and do use lower read and writes on the inner sectors. But that is not something you, the user, can change.

Discussion

20670.	Solve : Any Hope for my Hard Drive??
Answer» After resurrecting it, all was ok for a couple of months and then I left it running. I guess it just couldn't handle being left alone without a steady hand to guide it. Now, I can't even get to the Windows Screen. I did once... but no more. It just says: A Disc Read Error Occurred Press Ctrl+Alt+Delete to restart Which, unfortunately ends with the same message. I do believe I can get into the BIOS if necessary. Any advice or suggestions? Thanks -SierraAfter resurrecting what? This is addressed on IDE ATA drives, not SATA drives. For those of you having this problem, Here's your answer: Make sure that the black jumper in the back of your main hard drive is set to "MA" (MASTER) as abbreviated according to the schematics shown on top of your hard drive. (On the sticker at the bottom.) Any other drives that you have such as your CD-ROM, DVD-ROM must be placed as "SL" (SLAVE) as abbreviated on the back of them. (These abbriviated letterings are stamped in the metal or plastic part in the back, it can be hard to see, use a flashlight to get a good look at it. Those of you have different brand computers, need to get into the BIOS. First, when you first turn on the computer, the post boot screen will come on, look for where it will tell you what key to press to get into the BIOS. All systems are different, some are done by pressing the F2 key, or the F11 key, others are the DEL key. On Compaqs and HP, uses the F11 key, Dells and other systems uses the F2 key. Barebone systems uses the DEL key. Once you are in the BIOS, you need to find the section on the Boot Order. Make sure the the HDD is placed as the first boot priority before any others in the listing, which means your main hard drive must be placed as a first boot device before any others that is listed.The boot order should be placed in the following order: 1. HDD (Hard Disk Drive) 2. CD-ROM 3. FDD or NET or the like. (The 3rd boot order can also be disabled by selecting it.) Once you have the boot priority set, hit the ESC key and save the configuration. It should now boot to your main hard drive with the Windows loading on. Also, make sure there are no CDs or DVDs in your CD-ROM drive or the DVD-ROM drive before you start your computer! Good luck. Quote After resurrecting it, Sorry, crstal ball is very hasy here. What did you do? What kind of Computer? How old? What was wrong with the HDD? If the drive had a real physical failure, it is still bad. And may get sorse. Is it an IDE? Does it have SMART enabled? 1. Recover Data First. If you need any "data" off the hard drive, stop "writing" to the drive. Standard operating procedure would be to "slave" the hard drive to a working desktop system to recover the data to another hard drive or storage media. Recover the data first, then troubleshoot the hard drive and/or original computer system. 2. A Disc Read Error Occurred. Check hardware configuration and run hardware diagnostics. a. Check system RAM. (www.memtest86.com or www.memtest.org). Download "free" memory diagnostics from above website(s), create suitable boot media, then boot the diagnostics on original computer system. b. Check hard drive. Download "free" hard drive diagnostics from drive manufacturer web site, create suitable boot media, then boot the diagnostics. Best to use working desktop system, otherwise original computer. c. Check hard drive data cable, power cable, and configuration. (1) If IDE, check "jumper" settings on hard drive, position on cable, 80-wire versus 40-wire cable. 3. Hard Drive. a. Make and model name/number of hard drive (look on hard drive case). b. Does it connect using IDE or SATA interface? c. Approximate "age" of hard drive. d. Is hard drive "detected" and correctly identified in system BIOS (vendor model number, total capacity)?First, just let me say how I really appreciated seeing all of the friendly and knowledgeable advice/questions/comments. I couldn’t respond till this early a.m. but again I posted at another site and didn’t hear from anyone for over a month. Similar issue. Now… Greetings Allan, I was referring to resurrecting my hard drive. Hello imperator, my hard drive is in fact an SATA Western Digital 10,000 Rpm Raptor. Circa 2007. I did check the boot order, and my HDD is first with my optical drive second. I did think to check for any discs and there are none loaded in my Sony DRU 840. Thanks for the help. Geek-9pm, sorry I didn’t hand you the cloth to wipe off the crystal ball. How is this? This is a computer I build myself, Intel 975XBX2KR, C2D 6420 at stock speed of 2.13. HDD described above. 2 gigs Mushkin ram at 5-5-5-15. Bought and built in June of 2007. Around late winter of said year, hard drive started making more and more noise. Nothing that I could hear over gaming THOUGH. Then it started not wanting to boot. I read up on it and decided it might be the oft quoted “Click of Death” and that the drive might be having problems seeking. I put off calling Western Digital but I was real close… till it just stopped working all together. I let it sit for one year and 7 months +-, and then tried it one day and it worked. Has worked fine for two months till I left it run by itself evidently too long. L SMART is enabled. Dahlarbear, Great Name! Ok. I will stop writing to the drive. Thanks for the sound advice. I am kicking my self gently now as I did buy a flash drive to grab some files and never did it. As for your number two, I will do all of that if I can get to another desktop. I am in the process of building one, but it could be a while. For your number three, as mentioned above it is an SATA 10K Raptor but not the Veloci. The model number is WD1500AHFDRTL. It is approximately three years old. I do have a 5 year warranty. Also, the hard drive is detected and properly identified in the BIOS; both vendor model number and drive capacity. All- When I did come back to find a blue screen with a lot of information on it, the instructions mentioned going into BIOS and something about clearing cache. But it said to do that if I got that particular blue screen again. So, unfortunately I didn’t write those DIRECTIONS down, thinking at worse I would see them again if needed. It then booted into the windows loading screen but never was able to finish. Now I don’t even get that. Just an opportunity to go into BIOS at the Intel screen then the message about Disk Read Error. Thanks everyone! -Sierra P.S.-I am not expecting a miracle here. Compassionate pronouncements of my HDD’s demise will be accepted gracefully. Heck, maybe they will mail me a 150 GB VelociRaptor !! I do however, appreciate any insight into what may have gone wrong. -SJI still don't UNDERSTAND. What do you mean you resurrected your hard drive? Specifically?1. Drive History. Given the "history" of the hard drive, my recommendation is to stop using it until you're ready to perform "Data Recovery" preferably from a known good working computer. I wouldn't try to "read" it nor would I run the hard drive diagnostics until after you've tried to recover the data. It may have very little or no life left. I'm assuming you don't want to seek professional data recovery services because of the potential cost. It's all about how much the data is worth to you and how much risk you are willing to assume. If you're UNABLE to access the "data" during your data recovery attempt, then I'd start troubleshooting the hard drive and/or file system (preferably from a known good working computer). In the mean time, if you have another hard drive; swap that into the problem computer (pull the current hard drive out) load an operating system; and check out the computer system. Another alternative that doesn't require a hard drive is to boot an operating system from a Live CD or USB drive, and check out the problem computer system with that. Some of these operating systems provide read/write access to NTFS hard drive file system(s), CD/DVD drives, and USB flash/thumb/hard drives. (And might provide data recovery access to your hard drive files.) One such Live CD is Ubuntu Desktop 9.10 (32-bit). There are many others. An inability to boot to the hard drive does not mean you're unable to read the file system(s) of that drive. 2. Western Digital Corporation links: a. Why is the error "A Disk Read Error Occurred: Press CTRL ALT DEL to restart" shown while booting to Windows 2000 or XP? b. How to test a WD SATA or EIDE drive for errors with a Data Lifeguard Diagnostics CD or Floppy disk.We really don't know the history of his hard drive. He said he "resurrected" it. We have no idea what that means.Quote from: Sierra on January 04, 2010, 06:22:51 AM Around late winter of said year, hard drive started making more and more noise. Nothing that I could hear over gaming though. Then it started not wanting to boot. I read up on it and decided it might be the oft quoted “Click of Death” and that the drive might be having problems seeking. I put off calling Western Digital but I was real close… till it just stopped working all together. I let it sit for one year and 7 months +-, and then tried it one day and it worked. Has worked fine for two months till I left it run by itself evidently too long. L SMART is enabled. Quote from: Allan on January 04, 2010, 02:32:05 PM We really don't know the history of his hard drive. He said he "resurrected" it. We have no idea what that means. I'm "assuming" they took no directed activity to resurrect the hard drive. I'd be curious as to whether any BIOS parameters relating to the drive or the SATA interface were changed (or what they're currently set at).Quote from: dahlarbear on January 04, 2010, 02:45:33 PM I'm "assuming" they took no directed activity to resurrect the hard drive. Sorry db - don't know what you're saying. But no matter - I'm curious to hear what the OP has to say.Thanks Allan, By resurrected I mean by an act of faith. “I am curious what the OP has to say.” Is that original poster? Thanks Dahlarbear, I will indeed pass on professional data recovery services. It is screenshots from World of Warcraft (memories... I can make more) and saved games (if the game was that good I probably won’t mind replaying. The rest is programs I own and can reinstall. Still, I will try to salvage data once I have the working computer. Thanks for the links. I will check them out asap. I am very interested in the Ubuntu Live CD and will research that as well. I like that idea. All for now, Thanks for your time and input, -Sierra Quote from: Sierra on January 04, 2010, 07:32:52 PM Thanks Allan, By resurrected I mean by an act of faith. “I am curious what the OP has to say.” Is that original poster? I still have no idea what you mean by "resurrected" the hard drive - it would help if you explain. Or not - it's up to you. And yes, Original Poster.You could try using Hirens boot cd and run HDD Regen, this should HOPEFULLY provide a temporary fix for any bad sectors giving you enough time to backup any documents/pics etc, not reccomended for the long term though.Thanks Geriden. I will check into it. Thanks Allan. Let me see if I can clarify: I and my system were clearly under attack. The Ghost in The Machine? Demons? Who knows. Hardly a day goes by in my life when I am not subjected to the whims of the enemy. In this particular instance, after getting worse and worse, my HDD literally grinded to a stop. It was a terrible thing to listen to. So I just let it sit there for over a year, almost two. Not much you can do against demons. And what was the point of buying another if they would just destroy that HDD also? When the demons were gone, I said a prayer and held my hands over the harddrive. Low and behold (I kid you not) it worked. The computer was up and running again. As a long time faith healer who has often had success where Penn Medicine's doctors (and others) have failed, I have experience with this sort of thing. It comes easy, except there is an awful price to pay. You become a target. Hope this helps -Sierra

20670.

Solve : Any Hope for my Hard Drive??

Answer»

After resurrecting it, all was ok for a couple of months and then I left it running. I guess it just couldn't handle being left alone without a steady hand to guide it. Now, I can't even get to the Windows Screen. I did once... but no more. It just says:

A Disc Read Error Occurred
Press Ctrl+Alt+Delete to restart

Which, unfortunately ends with the same message.

I do believe I can get into the BIOS if necessary.

Any advice or suggestions? Thanks
-SierraAfter resurrecting what? This is addressed on IDE ATA drives, not SATA drives.

For those of you having this problem, Here's your answer: Make sure that the black jumper in the back of your main hard drive is set to "MA" (MASTER) as abbreviated according to the schematics shown on top of your hard drive. (On the sticker at the bottom.) Any other drives that you have such as your CD-ROM, DVD-ROM must be placed as "SL" (SLAVE) as abbreviated on the back of them. (These abbriviated letterings are stamped in the metal or plastic part in the back, it can be hard to see, use a flashlight to get a good look at it. Those of you have different brand computers, need to get into the BIOS. First, when you first turn on the computer, the post boot screen will come on, look for where it will tell you what key to press to get into the BIOS. All systems are different, some are done by pressing the F2 key, or the F11 key, others are the DEL key. On Compaqs and HP, uses the F11 key, Dells and other systems uses the F2 key. Barebone systems uses the DEL key. Once you are in the BIOS, you need to find the section on the Boot Order. Make sure the the HDD is placed as the first boot priority before any others in the listing, which means your main hard drive must be placed as a first boot device before any others that is listed.The boot order should be placed in the following order:

1. HDD (Hard Disk Drive)

2. CD-ROM

3. FDD or NET or the like. (The 3rd boot order can also be disabled by selecting it.)

Once you have the boot priority set, hit the ESC key and save the configuration. It should now boot to your main hard drive with the Windows loading on. Also, make sure there are no CDs or DVDs in your CD-ROM drive or the DVD-ROM drive before you start your computer! Good luck. Quote

After resurrecting it,

Sorry, crstal ball is very hasy here.
What did you do?
What kind of Computer? How old? What was wrong with the HDD?
If the drive had a real physical failure, it is still bad. And may get sorse.
Is it an IDE? Does it have SMART enabled?
1. Recover Data First. If you need any "data" off the hard drive, stop "writing" to the drive. Standard operating procedure would be to "slave" the hard drive to a working desktop system to recover the data to another hard drive or storage media.

Recover the data first, then troubleshoot the hard drive and/or original computer system.

2. A Disc Read Error Occurred. Check hardware configuration and run hardware diagnostics.
a. Check system RAM. (www.memtest86.com or www.memtest.org). Download "free" memory diagnostics from above website(s), create suitable boot media, then boot the diagnostics on original computer system.
b. Check hard drive. Download "free" hard drive diagnostics from drive manufacturer web site, create suitable boot media, then boot the diagnostics. Best to use working desktop system, otherwise original computer.
c. Check hard drive data cable, power cable, and configuration.
(1) If IDE, check "jumper" settings on hard drive, position on cable, 80-wire versus 40-wire cable.

3. Hard Drive.
a. Make and model name/number of hard drive (look on hard drive case).
b. Does it connect using IDE or SATA interface?
c. Approximate "age" of hard drive.
d. Is hard drive "detected" and correctly identified in system BIOS (vendor model number, total capacity)?First, just let me say how I really appreciated seeing all of the friendly and knowledgeable advice/questions/comments. I couldn’t respond till this early a.m. but again I posted at another site and didn’t hear from anyone for over a month. Similar issue. Now…

Greetings Allan, I was referring to resurrecting my hard drive.

Hello imperator, my hard drive is in fact an SATA Western Digital 10,000 Rpm Raptor. Circa 2007. I did check the boot order, and my HDD is first with my optical drive second. I did think to check for any discs and there are none loaded in my Sony DRU 840. Thanks for the help.

Geek-9pm, sorry I didn’t hand you the cloth to wipe off the crystal ball. How is this?
This is a computer I build myself, Intel 975XBX2KR, C2D 6420 at stock speed of 2.13. HDD described above. 2 gigs Mushkin ram at 5-5-5-15. Bought and built in June of 2007. Around late winter of said year, hard drive started making more and more noise. Nothing that I could hear over gaming THOUGH. Then it started not wanting to boot. I read up on it and decided it might be the oft quoted “Click of Death” and that the drive might be having problems seeking. I put off calling Western Digital but I was real close… till it just stopped working all together. I let it sit for one year and 7 months +-, and then tried it one day and it worked. Has worked fine for two months till I left it run by itself evidently too long. L SMART is enabled.

Dahlarbear, Great Name! Ok. I will stop writing to the drive. Thanks for the sound advice. I am kicking my self gently now as I did buy a flash drive to grab some files and never did it. As for your number two, I will do all of that if I can get to another desktop. I am in the process of building one, but it could be a while. For your number three, as mentioned above it is an SATA 10K Raptor but not the Veloci. The model number is WD1500AHFDRTL. It is approximately three years old. I do have a 5 year warranty. Also, the hard drive is detected and properly identified in the BIOS; both vendor model number and drive capacity.

All- When I did come back to find a blue screen with a lot of information on it, the instructions mentioned going into BIOS and something about clearing cache. But it said to do that if I got that particular blue screen again. So, unfortunately I didn’t write those DIRECTIONS down, thinking at worse I would see them again if needed. It then booted into the windows loading screen but never was able to finish. Now I don’t even get that. Just an opportunity to go into BIOS at the Intel screen then the message about Disk Read Error.

Thanks everyone!

-Sierra

P.S.-I am not expecting a miracle here. Compassionate pronouncements of my HDD’s demise will be accepted gracefully. Heck, maybe they will mail me a 150 GB VelociRaptor !! I do however, appreciate any insight into what may have gone wrong.

-SJI still don't UNDERSTAND. What do you mean you resurrected your hard drive? Specifically?1. Drive History. Given the "history" of the hard drive, my recommendation is to stop using it until you're ready to perform "Data Recovery" preferably from a known good working computer. I wouldn't try to "read" it nor would I run the hard drive diagnostics until after you've tried to recover the data. It may have very little or no life left. I'm assuming you don't want to seek professional data recovery services because of the potential cost.

It's all about how much the data is worth to you and how much risk you are willing to assume.

If you're UNABLE to access the "data" during your data recovery attempt, then I'd start troubleshooting the hard drive and/or file system (preferably from a known good working computer). In the mean time, if you have another hard drive; swap that into the problem computer (pull the current hard drive out) load an operating system; and check out the computer system.

Another alternative that doesn't require a hard drive is to boot an operating system from a Live CD or USB drive, and check out the problem computer system with that. Some of these operating systems provide read/write access to NTFS hard drive file system(s), CD/DVD drives, and USB flash/thumb/hard drives. (And might provide data recovery access to your hard drive files.) One such Live CD is Ubuntu Desktop 9.10 (32-bit). There are many others.

An inability to boot to the hard drive does not mean you're unable to read the file system(s) of that drive.

2. Western Digital Corporation links:
a. Why is the error "A Disk Read Error Occurred: Press CTRL ALT DEL to restart" shown while booting to Windows 2000 or XP?
b. How to test a WD SATA or EIDE drive for errors with a Data Lifeguard Diagnostics CD or Floppy disk.We really don't know the history of his hard drive. He said he "resurrected" it. We have no idea what that means.Quote from: Sierra on January 04, 2010, 06:22:51 AM

Around late winter of said year, hard drive started making more and more noise. Nothing that I could hear over gaming though. Then it started not wanting to boot. I read up on it and decided it might be the oft quoted “Click of Death” and that the drive might be having problems seeking. I put off calling Western Digital but I was real close… till it just stopped working all together. I let it sit for one year and 7 months +-, and then tried it one day and it worked. Has worked fine for two months till I left it run by itself evidently too long. L SMART is enabled.

Quote from: Allan on January 04, 2010, 02:32:05 PM

We really don't know the history of his hard drive. He said he "resurrected" it. We have no idea what that means.

I'm "assuming" they took no directed activity to resurrect the hard drive. I'd be curious as to whether any BIOS parameters relating to the drive or the SATA interface were changed (or what they're currently set at).Quote from: dahlarbear on January 04, 2010, 02:45:33 PM

I'm "assuming" they took no directed activity to resurrect the hard drive.

Sorry db - don't know what you're saying. But no matter - I'm curious to hear what the OP has to say.Thanks Allan,

By resurrected I mean by an act of faith. “I am curious what the OP has to say.” Is that original poster?

Thanks Dahlarbear,

I will indeed pass on professional data recovery services. It is screenshots from World of Warcraft (memories... I can make more) and saved games (if the game was that good I probably won’t mind replaying. The rest is programs I own and can reinstall. Still, I will try to salvage data once I have the working computer. Thanks for the links. I will check them out asap. I am very interested in the Ubuntu Live CD and will research that as well. I like that idea.

All for now,

Thanks for your time and input,

-Sierra
Quote from: Sierra on January 04, 2010, 07:32:52 PM

Thanks Allan,

By resurrected I mean by an act of faith. “I am curious what the OP has to say.” Is that original poster?

I still have no idea what you mean by "resurrected" the hard drive - it would help if you explain. Or not - it's up to you.
And yes, Original Poster.You could try using Hirens boot cd and run HDD Regen, this should HOPEFULLY provide a temporary fix for any bad sectors giving you enough time to backup any documents/pics etc, not reccomended for the long term though.Thanks Geriden. I will check into it.

Thanks Allan. Let me see if I can clarify:

I and my system were clearly under attack. The Ghost in The Machine? Demons? Who knows. Hardly a day goes by in my life when I am not subjected to the whims of the enemy. In this particular instance, after getting worse and worse, my HDD literally grinded to a stop. It was a terrible thing to listen to. So I just let it sit there for over a year, almost two. Not much you can do against demons. And what was the point of buying another if they would just destroy that HDD also? When the demons were gone, I said a prayer and held my hands over the harddrive. Low and behold (I kid you not) it worked. The computer was up and running again. As a long time faith healer who has often had success where Penn Medicine's doctors (and others) have failed, I have experience with this sort of thing. It comes easy, except there is an awful price to pay. You become a target.

Hope this helps

-Sierra

Discussion

20671.	Solve : Mysterous yet frusterating hdd issue?
Answer» Gonna rerun all my ANTIVIRUS, anti male-ware, anti ad-ware, anti hijack stuff. I would REINSTALL everything over again but it would be the fourth time now with no results. If I do manage to PUT an end to this mystery I'll be sure to TELL the news here.running hijack this, spybot S&D, as well as Avast antivirus found minimal threats. Problem persists. Abandon all hope ye who have this problem >.<

Discussion

20672.	Solve : fan runs loud all the time?
Answer» HELLO. I have a problem with my computer fan running loud all the time. When the fan stops running loud, sometimes the computer will just shut off. The computer also does not want to come out of screen saver / sleep mode, so I changed the settings to be on all the time, ugh. But the loud fan is the main problem. Any ideas? Thanks so much for your help!! I have Windows XP, SP3... on a Compac Presario SR1430NX, 160 GB, 512 MB. Any ideas on how to make the noise go away? Been doing this for SEVERAL weeks... THANKS!!!!!Why are you STARTING another thread?Have you removed a side panel to determine which fan is the culprit ? ? PS Sorry for closing this earlier...Sorry but another Alan told me I needed to take this problem to hardware and not where I started it... this is all new to me, but I can certainly remove this if I need to.I would...be careful with static precautions and remove all powe rtil you have the panel off...then re-introduce power and see what fan is the culprit... My bet is it's either the PSU or vid CARD fan...Thank you for your help. I will try it.

Discussion

20673.	Solve : computer re-starting?
Answer» Don't know yet. I know you have an HP Pavilion, but that's not enough. There's like a 10,000 Pavilions. Go here: http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/siteHome?cc=us&lc=en and/or give me the model number: Pavilion ______ (fill in the blank)You have posted restarting, freezing, flickering. Since you are on the part of reinstalling your system. Have you : 1. First tested your Hard drive as suggested? 2. Use one stick of RAM module, alternately on available slot - reboot, REINSTALL again. 3. Borrowed another Power Supply with same or greater wattage. 4. Does PC have a built-in video graphics for you to work on other than the troubled video card? 5. Tested the Video card on another PC or on a repair shop to confirmed that its faulty? They could install that card on their PC for probably a minimum fee or free. MANY, many thank you to CC, Allen, Jason and everybody else. It was a graphics card problem after all!! I REPLACED the card on the weekend and everything is fine with my graphics now. A side note though, now I have no sound and my computer is telling me that there are no mixers available and to go to the control panel and add new hardware. Once again, everything that I have TRIED does not work. I researched on the net and have tried everything suggested and nothing! I'm telling you, it's going out the window!!!Many graphics cards now have integrated audio. If it has an HDMI port, then it does. I know when I installed my new graphics card, I had to turn the graphics card audio off because I wanted to continue to use the onboard audio.

Discussion

20674.	Solve : HOW DO I PARTITION MY HARD DRIVE.?
Answer» Good morning good people of the good community I am windows 7 operating system user and a windows xp operating system.In windows7 i have 350gb and i want to divide it to two equal sized.one as primary and other as logical.how can i do that? Same also in xpUsing the web based Google SEARCH engine and the phrase"how to partition a HARD-drive" produced 1,810,000 replies in .09 sec. Here are the 1st 3 to get you started. truenorth http://support.microsoft.com/kb/313348 http://www.pcworld.com/article/73826/stepbystep_partition_your_hard_drive.html http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bwNLNYhTaEk http://www.partition-tool.com easeus partition manager is one of the best partition managers for your hard drive. From Google search ... Quote 5 Best Free Partition Software \| Free Software ... Aug 18, 2010 – Here are 5 Best Free Partitioning Software to easily partition hard drive. You can RESIZE partitions, move partitions, edit partitions, and delete ... http://www.ilovefreesoftware.com/18/featured/5-best-free-partition-software.html The LIST should include : http://www.partitionwizard.com/free-partition-manager.html Note that partition managers are not the same as boot managers or BACKUP managers. But there is a relationship. for your problem, there are many partition tool could help you of course some free partition manager could help you as well. download free partition manager for try. (: and you will find the detailed instruction through the program aomei partition assistant.

20674.

Solve : HOW DO I PARTITION MY HARD DRIVE.?

Answer»

Good morning good people of the good community
I am windows 7 operating system user and a windows xp operating system.In windows7 i have 350gb and i want to divide it to two equal sized.one as primary and other as logical.how can i do that? Same also in xpUsing the web based Google SEARCH engine and the phrase"how to partition a HARD-drive" produced 1,810,000 replies in .09 sec. Here are the 1st 3 to get you started. truenorth

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/313348
http://www.pcworld.com/article/73826/stepbystep_partition_your_hard_drive.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bwNLNYhTaEk http://www.partition-tool.com
easeus partition manager is one of the best partition managers for your hard drive. From Google search ...
Quote

5 Best Free Partition Software | Free Software
...
Aug 18, 2010 – Here are 5 Best Free Partitioning Software to easily partition hard drive. You can RESIZE partitions, move partitions, edit partitions, and delete ...

http://www.ilovefreesoftware.com/18/featured/5-best-free-partition-software.html

The LIST should include :
http://www.partitionwizard.com/free-partition-manager.html

Note that partition managers are not the same as boot managers or BACKUP managers. But there is a relationship.

for your problem, there are many partition tool could help you of course some free partition manager could help you as well. download free partition manager for try. (:
and you will find the detailed instruction through the program aomei partition assistant.

Discussion

20675.	Solve : How to recover data from malfunctioning or dead HD??
Answer» I replaced the HD in my mom's PC a while back because her pc wouldn't boot and it wouldn't ALLOW me to do a clean install or repair install. After I replaced it, she let my uncle take the old HD and he later told her there was nothing wrong with it and was able to pull all of her files off. Is there some trick to this? No matter what I did, I could not get her computer to start. Even after starting it with a boot diagnostic disc, I wasn't able to locate any of her files, so how was he able to? Any ideas? I'm just looking to learn in case I'm faced with this again in the FUTURE...It just happens. Consider the following statement: Failure of electronic devices follows statistically profitable trends. That is true, but does not tell you way a drive was dead and then came back to life. The statistics APPLY to a large set of failures. Individual failures are hard to asses. If you need as rational theory, here is one. The drive motor 'stalled' and could not turn o get to speed. When you moved it, some slight mechanical vibration freed the motor and it began to turn easily. That may not be what really happened. Your desire to accept this story is called 'rationalization'. Really, do you WANT more speculation? Does it really help? Anyway, you can not make a good rule from just one incident. And yes, this does happen sometimes. Be glad you got the date back. Quote from: Geek-9pm on August 28, 2011, 09:11:55 PM When you moved it, some slight mechanical vibration freed the motor and it began to turn easily. Yes, or maybe pooled lubricant was redistributed following transport of disk.Perhaps your Uncle used a Boot CD with tools that assisted in the recovery. A Linux USB or CD boot drive will often be able to recover data you can no longer ACCESS via Windows.

20675.

Solve : How to recover data from malfunctioning or dead HD??

Answer»

I replaced the HD in my mom's PC a while back because her pc wouldn't boot and it wouldn't ALLOW me to do a clean install or repair install. After I replaced it, she let my uncle take the old HD and he later told her there was nothing wrong with it and was able to pull all of her files off. Is there some trick to this? No matter what I did, I could not get her computer to start. Even after starting it with a boot diagnostic disc, I wasn't able to locate any of her files, so how was he able to? Any ideas? I'm just looking to learn in case I'm faced with this again in the FUTURE...It just happens.
Consider the following statement:
Failure of electronic devices follows statistically profitable trends.
That is true, but does not tell you way a drive was dead and then came back to life. The statistics APPLY to a large set of failures. Individual failures are hard to asses.

If you need as rational theory, here is one. The drive motor 'stalled' and could not turn o get to speed. When you moved it, some slight mechanical vibration freed the motor and it began to turn easily.

That may not be what really happened. Your desire to accept this story is called 'rationalization'.

Really, do you WANT more speculation? Does it really help?
Anyway, you can not make a good rule from just one incident.

And yes, this does happen sometimes. Be glad you got the date back.
Quote from: Geek-9pm on August 28, 2011, 09:11:55 PM

When you moved it, some slight mechanical vibration freed the motor and it began to turn easily.

Yes, or maybe pooled lubricant was redistributed following transport of disk.Perhaps your Uncle used a Boot CD with tools that assisted in the recovery. A Linux USB or CD boot drive will often be able to recover data you can no longer ACCESS via Windows.

Discussion

20676.	Solve : Can't find hard drives?
Answer» Greetings, I have acquired 2 Intel® Desktop Board DQ965GF with a 3gh processors that came from working machines. I am trying to set one up in an old Acer box with a 550 Watt power supply. I have tried two SATA drives separately and together both were working well in other machines before trying here. The first an 80 gig Segate has been slow formatted and fully checked by Windows and the Sea Tools from Seagate and showed no problems. The second a 160Gg Maxtor unit that was in a working unit. A 2 gig DDR2 X 800 known to be working and also tried a 1gig DDR2 to be sure. The unit will post or go to BIOS set up but it will not detect any HARD drive. I have removed the battery, let sit for 1 hour, re set the jumper, restored the BIOS to factory set up, loaded default settings, and played with just about every combination of settings in the BIOS. There are 6 ports for the HD and I have tried each one, The light on the HD lights up when booting and flashes with the DVD light when it is working, I can load any disk into the DVD and have run Hirens boot disk and Ubutu but still no HD. I followed a guide on set up on an online guide from Intel for this board but no joy. I am at a loss for an understanding. I will try anything before I need to go out and BUY the latest motherboard and CPU for too much money, I am running an older set up on another PC with Win 7 and it is all I need, I don't want the fastest and the best do do the little online tasks that I do. Thank you in advance for any help you can offer. Bob You might need to install some drivers. Is there a SCSI, SAS, or RAID controller? When you run your installation disk, watch for the screen that says to hit F6 to load third party drivers. With Win7 you can use a USB device you've downloaded the drivers to.Do these HDD's have Windows installed on them ? ? If so they have different drivers most likely... If they are blank boot to the Windows CD...very early on it will message "Press F6 to install additional Drivers "... At that point insert the MBoard Driver CD and setup will continue...One drive [80Gig] has been slow formatted and checked with the manufactures program and Windows disk checking program. The HDs are not seen in BIOS, there is no HD listed in the BIOS to "hit F6 to load third party drivers" to. Both Motherboards are the same and cannot even see any HD just the DVD. When I access BIOS or load a RAM resident program, such as UBCD or Hirens boot disk, they cannot find any HD connected to the computer. The only thing I can think of seems too impossible to be true, both MB's have the same fault after being removed from working units, unless if there is no hidden part of the BIOS that I cannot access. I have followed Intel's directions for setting up the BIOS to find HD's but still to no avail. As the post screen lists all 6 SATA ports as not having a HD connected, will a "F6" driver CD/Thumb drive be able to find and load drivers? Until you install an OS and the MBoard SATA drivers they won't be seen...Drivers will not be installed until a drive is found to install them onto. Unless the drivers are installed into a RAM drive, there is no HDD to install them to. There is no HDD found in the BIOS can this be resolved by installing drivers?Have you tried another sata cable?As there are two working HDD's [in other PC's not this one] in the unit I have tried two working cables plus a brand new cable straight out of the packet.From brief Google of board specs, BIOS should have option to run SATA controller in IDE emulation mode. Does this make a difference? Also are all cables correctly installed? http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/sb/CS-020811.htm Quote The SATA controller has three modes of operation: IDE mode - no AHCI, no RAID SATA mode (sometimes called AHCI mode) - AHCI enabled, no RAID RAID mode - AHCI enabled, RAID enabled Quote This APPLIES to: [...] Intel® Desktop Board DQ965GF [...] Yes, until I set up the BIOS as you described I do not see the SATA ports, When enabled as IDE I get the six ports shown all without a drive attached when there are one or two drives plugged in and showing a flashing red light as they seem to be accessed. But I have tried many different combinations with RAID on and OFF, AHCI on and off, SMART on and off, reset defaults, removed battery and set jumper, reset defaults with jumper off and on, replaced jumper and set to IDE, etc, etc, etc "Are the cables correctly installed?" Is there a way to incorrectly install the cables? You cannot swap power for Data cable, you cannot turn them over and as long as they are pushed home they cannot be installed incorrectly, can they? It is starting to look like filling the box with concrete and using it as a boat mooring is going to be the only answer. The only MB and CPU I could find the other day was an I3 setup and as they are so new they are still very expensive. Just under $300 and it was for DFDR3 not sure but I think I can still use DDR2 in the new DDR3 slots, is that correct, or do I need new RAM as well? go to RUN line if you are using windows operating system type (dxdiag) no bracket ok.And check from there if is your hard drive or hdd connector.Quote from: Ademil4vic on August 29, 2011, 04:15:27 AM go to RUN line if you are using windows operating system type (dxdiag) no bracket ok.And check from there if is your hard drive or hdd connector. You can ignore above nonsense post. Hi, No problem on ignoring that post, but please comment on my post about RAM? Can I use DDR2 on a motherboard that uses DDR3, I was told that at least some MB's will accept both in the same slot?Quote from: bob180bob on August 29, 2011, 06:58:56 AM Can I use DDR2 on a motherboard that uses DDR3, I was told that at least some MB's will accept both in the same slot? Whoever told you that was mistaken; even though DDR3 and DDR2 have 240 pins, they have different slot layouts (the size and position of the pins differ). By the way, the DQ965GF uses DDR2. There are a few motherboards that have slots for both DDR3 and DDR2 however. Maybe this is what your friend had heard and misremembered. http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/dq965gf/sb/CS-025978.htm Quote Intel® Desktop Board DQ965GF The board has four DIMM sockets and supports the following memory features: [...] 1.8V (only) DDR2 SDRAM DIMMs with gold-plated contacts [...] Thank you for that. I understand about my boards and I have DDR2 800 and as it shows a POST, they must be working. I have three 1 gig and one 2Gig sticks and I use a 2 and 1 gig stick in my current computer with no problems. I will now try to find a board that will accept DDR2 RAM as well as DDR3 as I don't want to have to buy DDR3 RAM as well as the motherboard, CPU and heat sink and fan. Do you know of a reasonably priced MB that will take DDR2 and DDR3? I think that there must be a MB problem with both of these MB's and I am just going to give up and go for a new board. I only use the net for emails, IM and Skype and do not play any games, I have no need for a fast unit as what I use now is good enough for my online and off line use. If I could I would just get a new MB that was not as advanced as DDR3 and it would be good to get one to take my CPU as well but there is only the newer stuff out there, I have looked in a lot of shops around here and I am not happy to buy most things like this online..

20676.

Solve : Can't find hard drives?

Answer»

Greetings,

I have acquired 2 Intel® Desktop Board DQ965GF with a 3gh processors that came from working machines.

I am trying to set one up in an old Acer box with a 550 Watt power supply.

I have tried two SATA drives separately and together both were working well in other machines before trying here. The first an 80 gig Segate has been slow formatted and fully checked by Windows and the Sea Tools from Seagate and showed no problems. The second a 160Gg Maxtor unit that was in a working unit.

A 2 gig DDR2 X 800 known to be working and also tried a 1gig DDR2 to be sure.

The unit will post or go to BIOS set up but it will not detect any HARD drive. I have removed the battery, let sit for 1 hour, re set the jumper, restored the BIOS to factory set up, loaded default settings, and played with just about every combination of settings in the BIOS.

There are 6 ports for the HD and I have tried each one, The light on the HD lights up when booting and flashes with the DVD light when it is working, I can load any disk into the DVD and have run Hirens boot disk and Ubutu but still no HD.

I followed a guide on set up on an online guide from Intel for this board but no joy. I am at a loss for an understanding.

I will try anything before I need to go out and BUY the latest motherboard and CPU for too much money, I am running an older set up on another PC with Win 7 and it is all I need, I don't want the fastest and the best do do the little online tasks that I do.

Thank you in advance for any help you can offer.

Bob

You might need to install some drivers.
Is there a SCSI, SAS, or RAID controller?
When you run your installation disk, watch for the screen that says to hit F6 to load third party drivers. With Win7 you can use a USB device you've downloaded the drivers to.Do these HDD's have Windows installed on them ? ? If so they have different drivers most likely...
If they are blank boot to the Windows CD...very early on it will message "Press F6 to install additional Drivers "...
At that point insert the MBoard Driver CD and setup will continue...One drive [80Gig] has been slow formatted and checked with the manufactures program and Windows disk checking program.

The HDs are not seen in BIOS, there is no HD listed in the BIOS to "hit F6 to load third party drivers" to.

Both Motherboards are the same and cannot even see any HD just the DVD.

When I access BIOS or load a RAM resident program, such as UBCD or Hirens boot disk, they cannot find any HD connected to the computer.

The only thing I can think of seems too impossible to be true, both MB's have the same fault after being removed from working units, unless if there is no hidden part of the BIOS that I cannot access. I have followed Intel's directions for setting up the BIOS to find HD's but still to no avail.

As the post screen lists all 6 SATA ports as not having a HD connected, will a "F6" driver CD/Thumb drive be able to find and load drivers?

Until you install an OS and the MBoard SATA drivers they won't be seen...Drivers will not be installed until a drive is found to install them onto.

Unless the drivers are installed into a RAM drive, there is no HDD to install them to.

There is no HDD found in the BIOS can this be resolved by installing drivers?Have you tried another sata cable?As there are two working HDD's [in other PC's not this one] in the unit I have tried two working cables plus a brand new cable straight out of the packet.From brief Google of board specs, BIOS should have option to run SATA controller in IDE emulation mode. Does this make a difference? Also are all cables correctly installed?

http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/sb/CS-020811.htm

Quote

The SATA controller has three modes of operation:

IDE mode - no AHCI, no RAID
SATA mode (sometimes called AHCI mode) - AHCI enabled, no RAID
RAID mode - AHCI enabled, RAID enabled

Quote

This APPLIES to:

[...]
Intel® Desktop Board DQ965GF
[...]

Yes, until I set up the BIOS as you described I do not see the SATA ports, When enabled as IDE I get the six ports shown all without a drive attached when there are one or two drives plugged in and showing a flashing red light as they seem to be accessed.

But I have tried many different combinations with RAID on and OFF, AHCI on and off, SMART on and off, reset defaults, removed battery and set jumper, reset defaults with jumper off and on, replaced jumper and set to IDE, etc, etc, etc

"Are the cables correctly installed?" Is there a way to incorrectly install the cables? You cannot swap power for Data cable, you cannot turn them over and as long as they are pushed home they cannot be installed incorrectly, can they?

It is starting to look like filling the box with concrete and using it as a boat mooring is going to be the only answer.

The only MB and CPU I could find the other day was an I3 setup and as they are so new they are still very expensive. Just under $300 and it was for DFDR3 not sure but I think I can still use DDR2 in the new DDR3 slots, is that correct, or do I need new RAM as well? go to RUN line if you are using windows operating system type (dxdiag) no bracket ok.And check from there if is your hard drive or hdd connector.Quote from: Ademil4vic on August 29, 2011, 04:15:27 AM

go to RUN line if you are using windows operating system type (dxdiag) no bracket ok.And check from there if is your hard drive or hdd connector.

You can ignore above nonsense post.
Hi,
No problem on ignoring that post, but please comment on my post about RAM?

Can I use DDR2 on a motherboard that uses DDR3, I was told that at least some MB's will accept both in the same slot?Quote from: bob180bob on August 29, 2011, 06:58:56 AM

Can I use DDR2 on a motherboard that uses DDR3, I was told that at least some MB's will accept both in the same slot?

Whoever told you that was mistaken; even though DDR3 and DDR2 have 240 pins, they have different slot layouts (the size and position of the pins differ). By the way, the DQ965GF uses DDR2. There are a few motherboards that have slots for both DDR3 and DDR2 however. Maybe this is what your friend had heard and misremembered.

http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/dq965gf/sb/CS-025978.htm

Quote

Intel® Desktop Board DQ965GF

The board has four DIMM sockets and supports the following memory features:

[...]

1.8V (only) DDR2 SDRAM DIMMs with gold-plated contacts

[...]

Thank you for that.

I understand about my boards and I have DDR2 800 and as it shows a POST, they must be working. I have three 1 gig and one 2Gig sticks and I use a 2 and 1 gig stick in my current computer with no problems.

I will now try to find a board that will accept DDR2 RAM as well as DDR3 as I don't want to have to buy DDR3 RAM as well as the motherboard, CPU and heat sink and fan.

Do you know of a reasonably priced MB that will take DDR2 and DDR3?

I think that there must be a MB problem with both of these MB's and I am just going to give up and go for a new board.

I only use the net for emails, IM and Skype and do not play any games, I have no need for a fast unit as what I use now is good enough for my online and off line use.

If I could I would just get a new MB that was not as advanced as DDR3 and it would be good to get one to take my CPU as well but there is only the newer stuff out there, I have looked in a lot of shops around here and I am not happy to buy most things like this online..

Discussion

20677.	Solve : Acer laptop: beeping when charging?
Answer» I have a month-old Acer Aspire laptop (5750 series). I've noticed in the past week or so that it periodically beeps when plugged in and charging. There are two short beeps in quick succession, then a pause, then the beeps again. It only seems to happen after the battery charges to about 60% or so. I know that it's not a signal to tell me that the computer is fully charged. This is troubling me, as I just bought this computer to replace one that crashed a month ago. It has also done it on more than one power outlet, so I know it's not a problem with the outlet. Any ideas? Last computer succumbed to death by milk spilled on it, ruining the motherboard. Thanks, kids!What happens after the beeping starts? Does the battery continue to charge until it gets to 100%? And, does the beeping continue until the battery reaches a 100% charge? And then, does the beeping stop? Your computer is under warranty, RIGHT?Yes, it started this AM at 60% and is now at 100% and is no longer beeping. It kind of did it in a flurry and then stopped. As far as I know, it's under warranty. It does not beep when unplugged.Quote from: CMMom on August 30, 2011, 09:01:06 AM It kind of did it in a flurry and then stopped. What do you mean by "in a flurry"? Do you mean that charging percentage suddenly JUMPED from 60% to 100%? Quote from: CMMom on August 30, 2011, 09:01:06 AM As far as I know, it's under warranty. If the computer is only about a month old, then it's surely under manufacturer's warranty, which is usually 1 year. If this beeping persists, I'd contact the manufacturer. This is an abnormal behavior and they should do whatever is necessary to resolve it for you. No, it did the beeping sequence about 10 times in a ROW in quick succession, then slowed down (became more infrequent), then stopped altogether after it was fully charged. It was like a "chunk" of beeping; not always predictable how long it would go between each pair of beeps.I'd contact the manufacturer. See http://support.acer.com/us/en/default.aspx for some support info. While waiting for any possible REPLACEMENT, TRY looking on you battery power options - Advanced Settings and try setting : Restore Plan defaults

20677.

Solve : Acer laptop: beeping when charging?

Answer»

I have a month-old Acer Aspire laptop (5750 series). I've noticed in the past week or so that it periodically beeps when plugged in and charging. There are two short beeps in quick succession, then a pause, then the beeps again. It only seems to happen after the battery charges to about 60% or so. I know that it's not a signal to tell me that the computer is fully charged. This is troubling me, as I just bought this computer to replace one that crashed a month ago. It has also done it on more than one power outlet, so I know it's not a problem with the outlet.

Any ideas? Last computer succumbed to death by milk spilled on it, ruining the motherboard. Thanks, kids!What happens after the beeping starts? Does the battery continue to charge until it gets to 100%? And, does the beeping continue until the battery reaches a 100% charge? And then, does the beeping stop?

Your computer is under warranty, RIGHT?Yes, it started this AM at 60% and is now at 100% and is no longer beeping. It kind of did it in a flurry and then stopped. As far as I know, it's under warranty. It does not beep when unplugged.Quote from: CMMom on August 30, 2011, 09:01:06 AM

It kind of did it in a flurry and then stopped.

What do you mean by "in a flurry"? Do you mean that charging percentage suddenly JUMPED from 60% to 100%?

Quote from: CMMom on August 30, 2011, 09:01:06 AM

As far as I know, it's under warranty.

If the computer is only about a month old, then it's surely under manufacturer's warranty, which is usually 1 year. If this beeping persists, I'd contact the manufacturer. This is an abnormal behavior and they should do whatever is necessary to resolve it for you. No, it did the beeping sequence about 10 times in a ROW in quick succession, then slowed down (became more infrequent), then stopped altogether after it was fully charged. It was like a "chunk" of beeping; not always predictable how long it would go between each pair of beeps.I'd contact the manufacturer. See http://support.acer.com/us/en/default.aspx for some support info. While waiting for any possible REPLACEMENT, TRY looking on you battery power options - Advanced Settings and try setting :

Restore Plan defaults

Discussion

20678.	Solve : BIOS ENVIRONMENT SET UP?
Answer» HEY GOOD PEOPLE How do i set up my bios environment properly to help my computer work very neatly?Do you have your motherboard manual? Each motherboard's BIOS is different...Exactly what is it you are trying to do? Is there some PROBLEM with your system?Whta if i do not have mother board manual,sir CANT i set it up ?If your computer is working, the BIOS is working but if it is an old computer there could be an update to your BIOS, but you can get in more trouble than it is worth to start playing with flashing your BIOS, best just let it be and leave that to the professionals. Quote from: Ademil4vic on August 29, 2011, 04:05:34 AM Whta if i do not have mother board manual,sir cant i set it up ? All MBoard Manuals are available as a Free DLoad at the manufacturer's site... It's usually a .PDF file so you neeed Adobe Reader...though i prefer Foxit...which is Free.Quote How do i set up my bios environment properly to help my computer work very neatly? Always use BIOS default SETTINGS, generally.

20678.

Solve : BIOS ENVIRONMENT SET UP?

Answer»
HEY GOOD PEOPLE
How do i set up my bios environment properly to help my computer work very neatly?Do you have your motherboard manual? Each motherboard's BIOS is different...Exactly what is it you are trying to do? Is there some PROBLEM with your system?Whta if i do not have mother board manual,sir CANT i set it up ?If your computer is working, the BIOS is working but if it is an old computer there could be an update to your BIOS, but you can get in more trouble than it is worth to start playing with flashing your BIOS, best just let it be and leave that to the professionals.

Quote from: Ademil4vic on August 29, 2011, 04:05:34 AM

Whta if i do not have mother board manual,sir cant i set it up ?

All MBoard Manuals are available as a Free DLoad at the manufacturer's site...
It's usually a .PDF file so you neeed Adobe Reader...though i prefer Foxit...which is Free.Quote

How do i set up my bios environment properly to help my computer work very neatly?

Always use BIOS default SETTINGS, generally.

Discussion

20679.	Solve : no power Compaq TA1 tablet laptop?
Answer» 1) She said it's a new battery 2) I checked the adapter and it's showing a steady 19.xx V 3) I got it down to the motherboard and the jack is good because I did continuity and plugged in the power and put the leads on the solder points and got the steady 19V-checked for loose connections. 4) I switched ram sticks, took out HD and video or SOUND card and optical DRIVE, tried restart with and without the battery in. 5) No visible board damage 6) the HD is good 7) checked the on button and associated wiring. Any other ideas? I'm confused with your post. Just to be clear--absolutely NOTHING happens on the laptop? What if anything was coincident to the 1st appearance of this problem on the computer? You have verified proper power to the motherboard and you do NOT observe any board damage --but it sure sounds LIKE that is where it is. What about cooling fans and otherwise?What about the laptops power SUPPLY unit? truenorthQuote from: gord99 on August 29, 2011, 03:34:57 PM 1) She said it's a new battery 2) I checked the adapter and it's showing a steady 19.xx V 3) I got it down to the motherboard and the jack is good because I did continuity and plugged in the power and put the leads on the solder points and got the steady 19V-checked for loose connections. 4) I switched ram sticks, took out HD and video or sound card and optical drive, tried restart with and without the battery in. 5) No visible board damage 6) the HD is good 7) checked the on button and associated wiring. Any other ideas? I don't have an answer but I have a laptop that died on me a couple of weeks ago with the same symptoms (this thread) so if I find a solution I'll post it here.

20679.

Solve : no power Compaq TA1 tablet laptop?

Answer»

1) She said it's a new battery
2) I checked the adapter and it's showing a steady 19.xx V
3) I got it down to the motherboard and the jack is good because I did continuity and plugged in the power and put the leads on the solder points and got the steady 19V-checked for loose connections.
4) I switched ram sticks, took out HD and video or SOUND card and optical DRIVE, tried restart with and without the battery in.
5) No visible board damage
6) the HD is good
7) checked the on button and associated wiring.

Any other ideas?

I'm confused with your post. Just to be clear--absolutely NOTHING happens on the laptop? What if anything was coincident to the 1st appearance of this problem on the computer? You have verified proper power to the motherboard and you do NOT observe any board damage --but it sure sounds LIKE that is where it is. What about cooling fans and otherwise?What about the laptops power SUPPLY unit? truenorthQuote from: gord99 on August 29, 2011, 03:34:57 PM

1) She said it's a new battery
2) I checked the adapter and it's showing a steady 19.xx V
3) I got it down to the motherboard and the jack is good because I did continuity and plugged in the power and put the leads on the solder points and got the steady 19V-checked for loose connections.
4) I switched ram sticks, took out HD and video or sound card and optical drive, tried restart with and without the battery in.
5) No visible board damage
6) the HD is good
7) checked the on button and associated wiring.

Any other ideas?

I don't have an answer but I have a laptop that died on me a couple of weeks ago with the same symptoms (this thread) so if I find a solution I'll post it here.

Discussion

20680.	Solve : HOW TO REVIVE A DEAD HARD DISK DRIVE (HDD)?
Answer» Good morning It really amased me this morning on onning my pc and heard unstopped sound po-po-po and this simply means that the drive's life span is out. So, how can i revive it or bring it back to life or to retrieve my datas from itWhen a drive reaches that point, there is no way to bring it back aside from maybe finding a professional data recovery service near you. They can attempt to retrieve the data, but it doesn't guarantee they will be able to.I recently had my hard drive stop working. I called and researched and found these options: Use a local authorized repair center for my brand of computer. They crack open the drive, rebuild the mechanism, and read the info. Cost $150.00 More cost to rebuild the file structure. Add in cost of a drive to put the recovered data on. BIG drawback--no clean room. Everything is done in open air. Almost guarantees max 1-week life of repaired drive. If platter damaged--no chance. Use any of many large data recovery businesses you can find on the internet. Most have clean rooms so recovery process on undamaged platter is more reliable than #1. Cost $1000.00 to $5000.00 OUCH! The best of these can often recover a disk that stumps many others. I don't know how to begin to choose one of these. I found a company in ATLANTA that has a flat rate for two levels of service--$349.00 and $649.00. They have a clean room and lots of experience. I CHOSE #3. They were able to do a 99.99% recovery. Within the $649 service they had to rebuild the mechanism twice to be able to read it. They attempted to clone my old drive onto a new one and thought/hoped I would be able to plug it in, boot up, and go on as if nothing had happened. Apparently there were either some proprietary/hidden files or small glitches that kept that from working. The new drive they sold me was at a decent price. Anyway, I have my data back. Oh...they also changed their company policy about cloning drives based on my experience. If they don't have the computer in hand to test before sending the recovered drive back, they won't attempt the cloning route. I don't remember if forum rules allow me to name the specific business I used, but maybe I gave you enough info to search/find it. I'm certainly no expert. Just sharing info about my experience. Good luck!Amazing! Did they really get back most of your data? Thanks for sharing. You story is credible. The only way to cut costs would be to move the operation to Mexico. The labor cost is very high. Plus special equipment for reading flaky media. But there is no excuse for not having a clean room.Some fans, filters, smocks,masks and a little innovation you can make a small clean room. That is not the big cost factor. Here in California there are independent firms the do data recovery buy do not rebuild the drive. IMHO rebuilding a drive is pointless for most desktop systems. If you want, give a link to their site. But either I or SOMEONE else may give a link to somebody that is cheaper. If you don't need to get better than 97% of the data and don't want the drive rebuilt. I use a software tool called GetDataBack NTFS that retrieved data off of a clunking drive. It was able to rebuild 95% of the data to a good drive and recover important work for a client. They have a free trial you can try, and see if it works before you buy it. Upon seeing the data there, you can then buy it for around $80 and be able to transfer the data to a healthy drive. Process took 5 days to sweep and reconstruct data from bad hard drive to healthy drive. I was truely amazed that a hard drive with the clunk failure of the head sweep, could still be interacted with by a windows program and recover data. I have been able to repair my own drives before also by finding a same exact model with same exact date code drive, with same firmware version on the drive controller board and swap the controller board that is on the hard drive carefully. If you have a same exact drive with different date code/rev and/or different firmware version your data is probably inaccessible. Also attempted once to transfer platters from one drive that had a bad motor that wouldnt spin to a healthy same drive with matching date codes/rev, and firmware, but the platters have to be placed exactly back into same 360 degree orientation on the drive you are moving them to or else data is out of position and useless. Once I was able to drill into the motor shaft on a bad motor drive, tap it to take a stand off and then take another junk hard drive and drill and tap the center of its shaft and use that other drives motor to spin the drive with the bummed motor to be able to get the data off of it. Had to add a piece of rubber hose between the 2 stand offs to act as a lovejoy fitting. Quite the hardware hack to get data back, but it worked.Quote from: Geek-9pm on August 29, 2011, 11:46:32 PM Amazing! Did they really get back most of your data? Yes I think so. The company is Data Savers, LLC in Alanta, GA. The people are nice and I'm happy with my choice. I just didn't want to risk the open-air repair option and knew I couldn't afford the really high-end companies. Keep in mind that every data recovery is unique. Some failures are in the motors, some in the bearings, some in the read head, some in the platter itself, etc. From what they said my platter was virtually perfect but they had to rebuild the heads twice. NORMALLY, when they return the old drive they have removed the rebuilt mechanism to be used again but they were so busy at the TIME, mine came back in working order. NEVER count on using the rebuilt drive for ANYTHING except to copy off all your information onto a new drive. There are a couple of issues with my recovered data, but I don't really fault Data Savers. Reread my other comments and then add that I have been so swamped with critical stuff to do I haven't had time to complete my process. You can also look in the MS-DOS forum at my post named (close to) "finishing a hard drive recovery" for a better picture of what I'm having to do. Good luck to all.

20680.

Solve : HOW TO REVIVE A DEAD HARD DISK DRIVE (HDD)?

Answer»

Good morning
It really amased me this morning on onning my pc and heard unstopped sound po-po-po and this simply means that the drive's life span is out.
So, how can i revive it or bring it back to life or to retrieve my datas from itWhen a drive reaches that point, there is no way to bring it back aside from maybe finding a professional data recovery service near you. They can attempt to retrieve the data, but it doesn't guarantee they will be able to.I recently had my hard drive stop working. I called and researched and found these options:

Use a local authorized repair center for my brand of computer. They crack open the drive, rebuild the mechanism, and read the info. Cost $150.00 More cost to rebuild the file structure. Add in cost of a drive to put the recovered data on. BIG drawback--no clean room. Everything is done in open air. Almost guarantees max 1-week life of repaired drive. If platter damaged--no chance.
Use any of many large data recovery businesses you can find on the internet. Most have clean rooms so recovery process on undamaged platter is more reliable than #1. Cost $1000.00 to $5000.00 OUCH! The best of these can often recover a disk that stumps many others. I don't know how to begin to choose one of these.
I found a company in ATLANTA that has a flat rate for two levels of service--$349.00 and $649.00. They have a clean room and lots of experience.

I CHOSE #3. They were able to do a 99.99% recovery. Within the $649 service they had to rebuild the mechanism twice to be able to read it. They attempted to clone my old drive onto a new one and thought/hoped I would be able to plug it in, boot up, and go on as if nothing had happened. Apparently there were either some proprietary/hidden files or small glitches that kept that from working. The new drive they sold me was at a decent price. Anyway, I have my data back. Oh...they also changed their company policy about cloning drives based on my experience. If they don't have the computer in hand to test before sending the recovered drive back, they won't attempt the cloning route.

I don't remember if forum rules allow me to name the specific business I used, but maybe I gave you enough info to search/find it.

I'm certainly no expert. Just sharing info about my experience. Good luck!Amazing! Did they really get back most of your data?

Thanks for sharing. You story is credible. The only way to cut costs would be to move the operation to Mexico. The labor cost is very high. Plus special equipment for reading flaky media.

But there is no excuse for not having a clean room.Some fans, filters, smocks,masks and a little innovation you can make a small clean room. That is not the big cost factor.

Here in California there are independent firms the do data recovery buy do not rebuild the drive. IMHO rebuilding a drive is pointless for most desktop systems.

If you want, give a link to their site. But either I or SOMEONE else may give a link to somebody that is cheaper. If you don't need to get better than 97% of the data and don't want the drive rebuilt.

I use a software tool called GetDataBack NTFS that retrieved data off of a clunking drive. It was able to rebuild 95% of the data to a good drive and recover important work for a client. They have a free trial you can try, and see if it works before you buy it. Upon seeing the data there, you can then buy it for around $80 and be able to transfer the data to a healthy drive. Process took 5 days to sweep and reconstruct data from bad hard drive to healthy drive. I was truely amazed that a hard drive with the clunk failure of the head sweep, could still be interacted with by a windows program and recover data.

I have been able to repair my own drives before also by finding a same exact model with same exact date code drive, with same firmware version on the drive controller board and swap the controller board that is on the hard drive carefully. If you have a same exact drive with different date code/rev and/or different firmware version your data is probably inaccessible.

Also attempted once to transfer platters from one drive that had a bad motor that wouldnt spin to a healthy same drive with matching date codes/rev, and firmware, but the platters have to be placed exactly back into same 360 degree orientation on the drive you are moving them to or else data is out of position and useless.

Once I was able to drill into the motor shaft on a bad motor drive, tap it to take a stand off and then take another junk hard drive and drill and tap the center of its shaft and use that other drives motor to spin the drive with the bummed motor to be able to get the data off of it. Had to add a piece of rubber hose between the 2 stand offs to act as a lovejoy fitting. Quite the hardware hack to get data back, but it worked.Quote from: Geek-9pm on August 29, 2011, 11:46:32 PM

Amazing! Did they really get back most of your data?

Yes I think so. The company is Data Savers, LLC in Alanta, GA. The people are nice and I'm happy with my choice. I just didn't want to risk the open-air repair option and knew I couldn't afford the really high-end companies.

Keep in mind that every data recovery is unique. Some failures are in the motors, some in the bearings, some in the read head, some in the platter itself, etc. From what they said my platter was virtually perfect but they had to rebuild the heads twice. NORMALLY, when they return the old drive they have removed the rebuilt mechanism to be used again but they were so busy at the TIME, mine came back in working order. NEVER count on using the rebuilt drive for ANYTHING except to copy off all your information onto a new drive.

There are a couple of issues with my recovered data, but I don't really fault Data Savers. Reread my other comments and then add that I have been so swamped with critical stuff to do I haven't had time to complete my process. You can also look in the MS-DOS forum at my post named (close to) "finishing a hard drive recovery" for a better picture of what I'm having to do.

Good luck to all.

Discussion

20681.	Solve : About an old computer RAM upgrade?
Answer» Ladies & Gentlemen: I was wondering: If a provide you with an Everest Report of an old computer's hardware, can you please tell me if it's possible to upgrade its RAM? Hoping to be hearing from you soon With my best regards VigaensonCPU-Z report would be better. http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php http://www.crucial.com/index.aspxThanks Computer_Commando!! Following your advice will not be easy for me because I'm actually a real newbie and as you can see I allready have at my disposal an Everest Report. Nevertheless, I'll try to provide you with a CPU-Z report. Broni: Thank you too!! Haven't had time to see your URL but will pay a visit as soon as I've got a break. My best regards for both of you! Vigaenson [attachment deleted by admin]Try crucial scan, first. Your motherboard manual: http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=it&u=http://web.tiscali.it/acorp/mobo_spec/pc-chips/m560/m560_v31.htm&ei=zG6wSpDRKIL8sgPG-8nCCw&sa=X&oi=translate&resnum=6&ct=result&prev=/search%3Fq%3DAbility%2BMB-586TXA%2Bmanual%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26sa%3DG%26num%3D50%26newwindow%3D1From your Everest report, I can see you have a very old computer. 486SLC cpu with 64MB RAM, Win98SE That computer is 15 years old. I wouldn't spend any money on it all.Broni: I took a look at Quote from: Broni on September 15, 2009, 10:56:43 PM http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=it&u=http://web.tiscali.it/acorp/mobo_spec/pc-chips/m560/m560_v31.htm&ei=zG6wSpDRKIL8sgPG-8nCCw&sa=X&oi=translate&resnum=6&ct=result&prev=/search%3Fq%3DAbility%2BMB-586TXA%2Bmanual%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26sa%3DG%26num%3D50%26newwindow%3D1 and found that there are some differences between the snapshot I can see there and my real old computer. I will now visit Quote from: Broni on September 15, 2009, 08:51:29 PM http://www.crucial.com/index.aspx I'm aware I'm going slowly but rememeber I'm a rookie trying to learn by getting the most out of a very old computer. Best regards VigaensonComputer_Commando Thank you for your concern. But please remember I'm a rookie trying to learn about installing a Linux distro that is said to work very well on old computers. I have been told that before trying to perform the install, it is best to have the RAM memory fully upgraded. I am communicating with you guys through another computer (a new PC with Windows XP, Internet Explorer 8 and the Live DVD of the Linux distro I want to try on the old computer) Nevertheless I'll try to provide you (Computer_Commando)with the CPU-Z report of the old computer you asked for. With my best regards Vigaenson All you REALLY need to concern yourself with is what kind of memory and how many memory slots you have. Best to visually inspect what is currently there, i.e., 2-32MB, or 1-64MB. I suspect that the memory is SDRAM PC-66 or PC-100. CPU-ID is a little better for specifically identifying this, IF the motherboard is SPD compliant. Some older mobos won't read the data correctly. The info you want is located on the SPD tab of CPU-ID.Computer_Commando: As an obsessive newbie I want to be sure I've understood you perfectly. Can you please answer these for me? 1)Do you mean that theoretically I have at least 2 ways of solving my problem? 2)One way is by visual inspection of what is currently on the memory slots ? 3)The other way is by using a program that is called CPU-ID? 3)After running the CPU-ID on the old computer the SPD tab of that program will tell me if the motherboard is SPD compliant? 4)If it is SPD compliant, the CPU-ID program will also tell me if it possible to upgrade the RAM memory? Hoping to be hearing from you soon With my best regards VigaensonQuote from: Vigaenson on September 17, 2009, 09:52:12 PM Computer_Commando: 1)Do you mean that theoretically I have at least 2 ways of solving my problem? 2)One way is by visual inspection of what is currently on the memory slots ? 3)The other way is by using a program that is called CPU-ID? 4)After running the CPU-ID on the old computer the SPD tab of that program will tell me if the motherboard is SPD compliant? 5)If it is SPD compliant, the CPU-ID program will also tell me if it possible to upgrade the RAM memory? 1. Yes. 2. Yes. 3. Yes. 4. No. If Mobo is SPD compliant, then tab will read properly. 5. No. It only tells you what is installed, not what you can upgrade.Thank you Computer_Commando!! If the CPU-ID only tells me what is installed, and I allready know (through Everest) I've got 64 MB (SDRAM), could you please explain the advantage of using CPU-ID? While I wait your answer I'll carry on a visual inspection. It will take some time because the cabinet is so full of wires that it won't be possible to see well without disconnecting some of them. I'll take advantage of the inspection to make a sketch of the cabinet's contents and all its RELEVANT connections. If I have any doubts I'll get in touch again. Best regards VigaensonHmm, well, actually 64MB is the maximum that most 486 chipsets SUPPORT...Quote from: Vigaenson on September 20, 2009, 09:14:59 AM ...If the CPU-ID only tells me what is installed, and I allready know (through Everest) I've got 64 MB (SDRAM), could you please explain the advantage of using CPU-ID? While I wait your answer I'll carry on a visual inspection.... Just download it and see for yourself. It will tell you all kinds of things you don't know now. It might not function at all on a 486. If not, try it on the machine you are using to connect to the internet. It's a very small program.Most 486 Processors don't even support the CPUID instruction...Computer_Commando: Thanks for your advice. I'll keep it in mind. BC_Programmer: Thank you for your tips. I'll also bear them in mind but I've read that the 486 processor is considered a fourth generation processor and my Cyrix 6x86MX/MII, 225 MHz PR300 is considered a sixth generation processor. On the other hand, I've finished the visual inspection of my motherboard and I've found I have three 186 pin DIMM memory slots and seemingly four 72 pin SIMM memory slots. Two of the DIMM memory slots are occupied by what is sketched in the attachment. I would like to upgrade RAM up to 128 MB not for the sake of speeding the computer but but for having enough capacity to upload from a live CD to RAM an approximately 100MB Linux distro operating system With these components, do you think I can reach my goal? Best wishes Vigaenson [attachment deleted by admin]Quote from: Vigaenson on September 22, 2009, 04:14:01 PM ...With these components, do you think I can reach my goal?... Unfortunately, you're going where few have gone before. You will have to try adding the 1 additional 32MB or 64MB, DIMM. Either one or may or may not work, you'll just have to try it. It is unlikely that you will be able to even find any 72-pin SIMMS, I haven't seen any of those in a long, long time. If I remember correctly, some of those old MOTHERBOARDS were able to support 2 different types of memory, but not simultaneously. BTW, I have a very old Cyrix 486SLC-50 laptop with 16MB RAM, which is proprietary. It dual boots Win3.1 & Win95, Win98SE was just too slow.Computer_Commando: Thanks for your reply. Quote from: Computer_Commando on September 22, 2009, 05:36:04 PM It is unlikely that you will be able to even find any 72-pin SIMMS, I haven't seen any of those in a long, long time. I agree. If I remember correctly I've only seen them in pictures. Quote from: Computer_Commando on September 22, 2009, 05:36:04 PM If I remember correctly, some of those old motherboards were able to support 2 different types of memory, but not simultaneously. You're right, I also read about that. Next Saturday I'll try adding the additional DIMMs. Just in case that doesn't t work I'm considering the possibility of reaching my goal (uploading the approximately 100 MB Linux distro operating system to the 1 GB Toshiba hard disk that is connected to the old computer ) by means of a connection between my new computer and the 1GB Toshiba hard disk. Unfortunately I don't know if that's possible not to mention how to do it. If you (or anyone else) have ideas on the latter, they're welcome. Regards VigaensonHigh Computer_Commando!! I want to thank you again for your help and keep you updated with my problem. I finally found (it wasn't easy) and bought a new 128 MB memory stick. Because slits nº 2 and nº 3 were both occupied by 32 MB sticks, I tried to fit it into slit nº 1 but something must have been wrong with that slit because it didn't retain it, neither did it retain the sticks that were in the other two slits. At last, I removed both 32MB sticks and occupied slit nº3 with the 128 MB stick. They are now recognized by the Everest Report and working fine with Windows 98. But although the old PC has more memory now, I haven't been able to install the 100 MB Linux version on the 1GB hard drive yet. So I'll have to begin new topic/s on the appropriate forum/s if I want to reach my goals. Is there anything I can do for you? Hoping to be hearing from you Best regards and Happy New Year! Vigaenson

20681.

Solve : About an old computer RAM upgrade?

Answer»

Ladies & Gentlemen:
I was wondering:
If a provide you with an Everest Report of an old computer's hardware, can you please tell me if it's possible to upgrade its RAM?
Hoping to be hearing from you soon
With my best regards

VigaensonCPU-Z report would be better.
http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php http://www.crucial.com/index.aspxThanks Computer_Commando!!
Following your advice will not be easy for me because I'm actually a real newbie and as you can see I allready have at my disposal an Everest Report.
Nevertheless, I'll try to provide you with a CPU-Z report.

Broni:
Thank you too!!
Haven't had time to see your URL but will pay a visit as soon as I've got a break.

My best regards for both of you!

Vigaenson

[attachment deleted by admin]Try crucial scan, first.
Your motherboard manual: http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=it&u=http://web.tiscali.it/acorp/mobo_spec/pc-chips/m560/m560_v31.htm&ei=zG6wSpDRKIL8sgPG-8nCCw&sa=X&oi=translate&resnum=6&ct=result&prev=/search%3Fq%3DAbility%2BMB-586TXA%2Bmanual%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26sa%3DG%26num%3D50%26newwindow%3D1From your Everest report, I can see you have a very old computer.
486SLC cpu with 64MB RAM, Win98SE

That computer is 15 years old. I wouldn't spend any money on it all.Broni:
I took a look at Quote from: Broni on September 15, 2009, 10:56:43 PM

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=it&u=http://web.tiscali.it/acorp/mobo_spec/pc-chips/m560/m560_v31.htm&ei=zG6wSpDRKIL8sgPG-8nCCw&sa=X&oi=translate&resnum=6&ct=result&prev=/search%3Fq%3DAbility%2BMB-586TXA%2Bmanual%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26sa%3DG%26num%3D50%26newwindow%3D1

and found that there are some differences between the snapshot I can see there and my real old computer.
I will now visit Quote from: Broni on September 15, 2009, 08:51:29 PM

http://www.crucial.com/index.aspx

I'm aware I'm going slowly but rememeber I'm a rookie trying to learn by getting the most out of a very old computer.
Best regards

VigaensonComputer_Commando
Thank you for your concern.
But please remember I'm a rookie trying to learn about installing a Linux distro that is said to work very well on old computers.
I have been told that before trying to perform the install, it is best to have the RAM memory fully upgraded.
I am communicating with you guys through another computer (a new PC with Windows XP, Internet Explorer 8 and the Live DVD of the Linux distro I want to try on the old computer)
Nevertheless I'll try to provide you (Computer_Commando)with the CPU-Z report of the old computer you asked for.
With my best regards

Vigaenson
All you REALLY need to concern yourself with is what kind of memory and how many memory slots you have. Best to visually inspect what is currently there, i.e., 2-32MB, or 1-64MB. I suspect that the memory is SDRAM PC-66 or PC-100. CPU-ID is a little better for specifically identifying this, IF the motherboard is SPD compliant. Some older mobos won't read the data correctly. The info you want is located on the SPD tab of CPU-ID.Computer_Commando:

As an obsessive newbie I want to be sure I've understood you perfectly.
Can you please answer these for me?

1)Do you mean that theoretically I have at least 2 ways of solving my problem?
2)One way is by visual inspection of what is currently on the memory slots ?
3)The other way is by using a program that is called CPU-ID?
3)After running the CPU-ID on the old computer the SPD tab of that program will tell me if the motherboard is SPD compliant?
4)If it is SPD compliant, the CPU-ID program will also tell me if it possible to upgrade the RAM memory?

Hoping to be hearing from you soon
With my best regards

VigaensonQuote from: Vigaenson on September 17, 2009, 09:52:12 PM

Computer_Commando:
1)Do you mean that theoretically I have at least 2 ways of solving my problem?
2)One way is by visual inspection of what is currently on the memory slots ?
3)The other way is by using a program that is called CPU-ID?
4)After running the CPU-ID on the old computer the SPD tab of that program will tell me if the motherboard is SPD compliant?
5)If it is SPD compliant, the CPU-ID program will also tell me if it possible to upgrade the RAM memory?

1. Yes.
2. Yes.
3. Yes.
4. No. If Mobo is SPD compliant, then tab will read properly.
5. No. It only tells you what is installed, not what you can upgrade.Thank you Computer_Commando!!
If the CPU-ID only tells me what is installed, and I allready know (through Everest) I've got 64 MB (SDRAM), could you please explain the advantage of using CPU-ID?
While I wait your answer I'll carry on a visual inspection. It will take some time because the cabinet is so full of wires that it won't be possible to see well without disconnecting some of them. I'll take advantage of the inspection to make a sketch of the cabinet's contents and all its RELEVANT connections. If I have any doubts I'll get in touch again.
Best regards

VigaensonHmm, well, actually 64MB is the maximum that most 486 chipsets SUPPORT...Quote from: Vigaenson on September 20, 2009, 09:14:59 AM

...If the CPU-ID only tells me what is installed, and I allready know (through Everest) I've got 64 MB (SDRAM), could you please explain the advantage of using CPU-ID?
While I wait your answer I'll carry on a visual inspection....

Just download it and see for yourself. It will tell you all kinds of things you don't know now. It might not function at all on a 486. If not, try it on the machine you are using to connect to the internet. It's a very small program.Most 486 Processors don't even support the CPUID instruction...Computer_Commando:
Thanks for your advice. I'll keep it in mind.
BC_Programmer:
Thank you for your tips. I'll also bear them in mind but I've read that the 486 processor is considered a fourth generation processor and my Cyrix 6x86MX/MII, 225 MHz PR300 is considered a sixth generation processor.

On the other hand, I've finished the visual inspection of my motherboard and I've found I have three 186 pin DIMM memory slots and seemingly four 72 pin SIMM memory slots.

Two of the DIMM memory slots are occupied by what is sketched in the attachment.

I would like to upgrade RAM up to 128 MB not for the sake of speeding the computer but but for having enough capacity to upload from a live CD to RAM an approximately 100MB Linux distro operating system

With these components, do you think I can reach my goal?

Best wishes

Vigaenson

[attachment deleted by admin]Quote from: Vigaenson on September 22, 2009, 04:14:01 PM

...With these components, do you think I can reach my goal?...

Unfortunately, you're going where few have gone before. You will have to try adding the 1 additional 32MB or 64MB, DIMM. Either one or may or may not work, you'll just have to try it.

It is unlikely that you will be able to even find any 72-pin SIMMS, I haven't seen any of those in a long, long time. If I remember correctly, some of those old MOTHERBOARDS were able to support 2 different types of memory, but not simultaneously.

BTW, I have a very old Cyrix 486SLC-50 laptop with 16MB RAM, which is proprietary. It dual boots Win3.1 & Win95, Win98SE was just too slow.Computer_Commando:

Thanks for your reply.

Quote from: Computer_Commando on September 22, 2009, 05:36:04 PM

It is unlikely that you will be able to even find any 72-pin SIMMS, I haven't seen any of those in a long, long time.

I agree. If I remember correctly I've only seen them in pictures.

Quote from: Computer_Commando on September 22, 2009, 05:36:04 PM

If I remember correctly, some of those old motherboards were able to support 2 different types of memory, but not simultaneously.

You're right, I also read about that.

Next Saturday I'll try adding the additional DIMMs. Just in case that doesn't t work I'm considering the possibility of reaching my goal (uploading the approximately 100 MB Linux distro operating system to the 1 GB Toshiba hard disk that is connected to the old computer ) by means of a connection between my new computer and the 1GB Toshiba hard disk.

Unfortunately I don't know if that's possible not to mention how to do it.

If you (or anyone else) have ideas on the latter, they're welcome.

Regards

VigaensonHigh Computer_Commando!!
I want to thank you again for your help and keep you updated with my problem.
I finally found (it wasn't easy) and bought a new 128 MB memory stick.
Because slits nº 2 and nº 3 were both occupied by 32 MB sticks, I tried to fit it into slit nº 1 but something must have been wrong with that slit because it didn't retain it, neither did it retain the sticks that were in the other two slits.
At last, I removed both 32MB sticks and occupied slit nº3 with the 128 MB stick.
They are now recognized by the Everest Report and working fine with Windows 98.
But although the old PC has more memory now, I haven't been able to install the 100 MB Linux version on the 1GB hard drive yet. So I'll have to begin new topic/s on the appropriate forum/s if I want to reach my goals.
Is there anything I can do for you?
Hoping to be hearing from you
Best regards and Happy New Year!
Vigaenson

Discussion

20682.	Solve : SOUND D520?
Answer» The above named laptop was formatted and drived well with compatible drivers,but still can't PLAY music files.Whenever i tried to play music or video WINDOWS media players alert will comes up:wind media player cannot play the files bcos there is a problem with your sound device.there may not be a sound device installed on your pc,it may be in use by another program....What do i do plz?After formatting, did you go to the website of the laptop manufacturer and download and install ALL appropriate drivers? Look in device manager - are there any yellow or red symbols?Just out of curiosity, how many laptops do you have? This is the 6th different laptop you've asked for help with this month. In addition to what Allan said, install the chipset driver first, if available, then the others. Only use the ones from the Dell website for that laptop or you will likely have issues like this.Thanks to allan and the second [emailprotected],there is no yellow or red question MARK or exclaimation mark showing that all the drivers are well installed.But still,the problem persist and i habe tried to set the speaker settings in control panel all pages is greyed out.what do i do?Quote from: Ademil4vic on September 30, 2011, 07:27:16 AM Thanks to allan and the second [emailprotected],there is no yellow or red question mark or exclaimation mark showing that all the drivers are well installed.But still,the problem persist and i habe tried to set the speaker settings in control panel all pages is greyed out.what do i do? If you're not seeing any errors in the hardware manager and there are no devices listed in the sound portion, then it's likely one of the following 4 things: 1. The device doesn't exist. 2. The device has malfunctioned and is no longer detectable. 3. A wire or cable connecting the device to the mainboard in the laptop has broken or come loose. 4. The device is disabled in the BIOS.Wait, in another thread you previously had stated this laptop was running Windows 7. If it's still running Windows 7, Dell doesn't provide Windows 7 drivers for this laptop. It's really difficult to follow your issues when you make so many posts about different laptops and multiple posts about the same laptops. If you want some clear answers, I'd suggest KEEPING your posts about one specific machine to one thread. It's not necessary to start a new thread for every little issue you have with a particular machine, since many issues are often related.

20682.

Solve : SOUND D520?

Answer»

The above named laptop was formatted and drived well with compatible drivers,but still can't PLAY music files.Whenever i tried to play music or video WINDOWS media players alert will comes up:wind media player cannot play the files bcos there is a problem with your sound device.there may not be a sound device installed on your pc,it may be in use by another program....What do i do plz?After formatting, did you go to the website of the laptop manufacturer and download and install ALL appropriate drivers? Look in device manager - are there any yellow or red symbols?Just out of curiosity, how many laptops do you have? This is the 6th different laptop you've asked for help with this month.

In addition to what Allan said, install the chipset driver first, if available, then the others. Only use the ones from the Dell website for that laptop or you will likely have issues like this.Thanks to allan and the second [emailprotected],there is no yellow or red question MARK or exclaimation mark showing that all the drivers are well installed.But still,the problem persist and i habe tried to set the speaker settings in control panel all pages is greyed out.what do i do?Quote from: Ademil4vic on September 30, 2011, 07:27:16 AM

Thanks to allan and the second [emailprotected],there is no yellow or red question mark or exclaimation mark showing that all the drivers are well installed.But still,the problem persist and i habe tried to set the speaker settings in control panel all pages is greyed out.what do i do?

If you're not seeing any errors in the hardware manager and there are no devices listed in the sound portion, then it's likely one of the following 4 things:

1. The device doesn't exist.

2. The device has malfunctioned and is no longer detectable.

3. A wire or cable connecting the device to the mainboard in the laptop has broken or come loose.

4. The device is disabled in the BIOS.Wait, in another thread you previously had stated this laptop was running Windows 7. If it's still running Windows 7, Dell doesn't provide Windows 7 drivers for this laptop.

It's really difficult to follow your issues when you make so many posts about different laptops and multiple posts about the same laptops. If you want some clear answers, I'd suggest KEEPING your posts about one specific machine to one thread. It's not necessary to start a new thread for every little issue you have with a particular machine, since many issues are often related.

Discussion

20683.	Solve : Driver or hardware?
Answer» My laptop DELL d520 was formatted with win xp and as usual LOST some drivers include sound driver and i DRIVE it and installed this driver,but the system will not play music and at the down left CORNER of the system there is no speaker icon.so,is it this driver that is not compatible or what? and if it this driver how do i disable it? many thanks Please do not post the same question more than once. I responded to your other post and am locking this one to avoid CONFUSION.

Discussion

20684.	Solve : New built PC doesn't POST?
Answer» Hello, My newly built PC won't boot. The PS turns on and powers up the motherboard, the video card and the case fans, but that's it. Nothing else happens. Nothing appears on the monitor connected via VGA. I have tested the memory and it appears to be OK EVEN though the MEM-OK LED has remained on like an angry red eye during all trouble shooting. It has never BLINKED once. I believe that I have eliminated everything except the motherboard and the video card and possibly the memory. Also does anyone know if the ASUS P6X58D-E emits beep codes? If yes on beep codes, will they work with external speakers? Here is the component list: Intel i7-930 CPU ASUS P6X58D-E MB ASUS Radeon 5770 Video Card CORSAIR 850W PS A-DATA 6G RAM ASUS 24” LED Monitor Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB HD Lite-on 24X DVD optical drive I am at wits end. If some kind guru could help a skinny, old, bald guy, I would be very grateful. skyeclipper Any and all motherboards should have beep sounds to warm of hardware malfunction. And they will only work with motherboard-integrated speakers. Nothing at all shows up on the screen? Can't even get in the BIOS? Does the motherboard have integrated video? If so, try to unplug the Radeon and boot on the integrated, see if it makes a difference. Also just to make sure, most high-end video cards require power cables directly from the power SUPPLY, are those plugged in?Ok sorry for being lazy, just google'd your motherboard, and as I can see there is no onboard video. Try to plug in another card if you have one and see if it makes a difference.There's no onboard speaker, so you won't hear any beep codes.Quote will they work with external speakers? If you mean speakers connected through the sound card, no. Usually the speaker comes with the case and you connect it to the speaker header on the board. These boards do seem to beep, as long a speaker is connected. I found a thread that says this board is fussy about the power supply used, and that it doesn't play nicely with OCZ PSUs. Thanks for the good info. Hey, Good advice guys. I have tried everything that I could. Seems like I won't be able to do much else without beep codes, so I just ordered a crappy INTERNAL speaker to replace one I have lost to the fog of time. If that doesn't help with troubleshooting, I will RMA everything. Thermal paste applied properly ? ? Sorry i'm late to the party,,,ooh,mine has got the same problem. hmmmm have you made sure all the cables are plugged in, when i rebuilt my naibours pc i for got to plug one wire in and i spent a week testing every thing just making sure the MB did not die..... lucky enought it was just the cable, it could be worth checking Thanks again for the sage advice. I am going to start the build over. My new plan is to buy a crappy little PC speaker and see if the beep codes identify a culprit. If things are still FUBAR, I will ask for more help from you guys. Thanks again.Good plan...and Good Luck !I would suggest that the RAM is a likely culprit. I have encountered similar circumstances in the past, and more often than not, RAM has been the cause. If you can get hold of a single RAM module which you know works reliably, try booting with just that installed. Some motherboards are also very fussy about the type of RAM and the BIOS memory settings. I had an ASUS board a while back which i tried 3 different brands of ram before i found one which would allow booting into BIOS. Once there I was able to manually set the RAM setting to the proper defaults and from then I had no problem with any type of RAM, even the ones which wouldn't work earlier. If does not solve your problem, I suggest pulling the computer completely appart, then reconstructing it with a bare minimum needed for boot, i.e. just one stick of RAM, and leave out any extra expansion cards such as sound and network cards. Sometimes the problem is as simple as a component not seated correctly. Good Luck.

20684.

Solve : New built PC doesn't POST?

Answer»

Hello,

My newly built PC won't boot. The PS turns on and powers up the motherboard, the video card and the case fans, but that's it. Nothing else happens. Nothing appears on the monitor connected via VGA. I have tested the memory and it appears to be OK EVEN though the MEM-OK LED has remained on like an angry red eye during all trouble shooting. It has never BLINKED once. I believe that I have eliminated everything except the motherboard and the video card and possibly the memory.

Also does anyone know if the ASUS P6X58D-E emits beep codes? If yes on beep codes, will they work with external speakers?

Here is the component list:
Intel i7-930 CPU
ASUS P6X58D-E MB
ASUS Radeon 5770 Video Card
CORSAIR 850W PS
A-DATA 6G RAM
ASUS 24” LED Monitor
Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB HD
Lite-on 24X DVD optical drive

I am at wits end. If some kind guru could help a skinny, old, bald guy, I would be very grateful.

skyeclipper
Any and all motherboards should have beep sounds to warm of hardware malfunction. And they will only work with motherboard-integrated speakers.

Nothing at all shows up on the screen? Can't even get in the BIOS?

Does the motherboard have integrated video? If so, try to unplug the Radeon and boot on the integrated, see if it makes a difference.

Also just to make sure, most high-end video cards require power cables directly from the power SUPPLY, are those plugged in?Ok sorry for being lazy, just google'd your motherboard, and as I can see there is no onboard video. Try to plug in another card if you have one and see if it makes a difference.There's no onboard speaker, so you won't hear any beep codes.Quote

will they work with external speakers?

If you mean speakers connected through the sound card, no. Usually the speaker comes with the case and you connect it to the speaker header on the board.

These boards do seem to beep, as long a speaker is connected. I found a thread that says this board is fussy about the power supply used, and that it doesn't play nicely with OCZ PSUs.

Thanks for the good info. Hey,

Good advice guys. I have tried everything that I could. Seems like I won't be able to do much else without beep codes, so I just ordered a crappy INTERNAL speaker to replace one I have lost to the fog of time. If that doesn't help with troubleshooting, I will RMA everything.

Thermal paste applied properly ? ?
Sorry i'm late to the party,,,ooh,mine has got the same problem. hmmmm have you made sure all the cables are plugged in, when i rebuilt my naibours pc i for got to plug one wire in and i spent a week testing every thing just making sure the MB did not die..... lucky enought it was just the cable, it could be worth checking Thanks again for the sage advice.

I am going to start the build over. My new plan is to buy a crappy little PC speaker and see if the beep codes identify a culprit. If things are still FUBAR, I will ask for more help from you guys.

Thanks again.Good plan...and Good Luck !I would suggest that the RAM is a likely culprit. I have encountered similar circumstances in the past, and more often than not, RAM has been the cause. If you can get hold of a single RAM module which you know works reliably, try booting with just that installed. Some motherboards are also very fussy about the type of RAM and the BIOS memory settings. I had an ASUS board a while back which i tried 3 different brands of ram before i found one which would allow booting into BIOS. Once there I was able to manually set the RAM setting to the proper defaults and from then I had no problem with any type of RAM, even the ones which wouldn't work earlier.

If does not solve your problem, I suggest pulling the computer completely appart, then reconstructing it with a bare minimum needed for boot, i.e. just one stick of RAM, and leave out any extra expansion cards such as sound and network cards.

Sometimes the problem is as simple as a component not seated correctly.

Good Luck.

Discussion

20685.	Solve : AGP Video Graphics Cards Knowledge Needed?
Answer» Hey! I have a few old computers set up so that my buds and I can play old games. I wanted to put CoD1 on them all, but a few don't have the graphics capabilities to play it, so I've decided to upgrade some of their video cards, but I need some help. I found a good deal on a few cards (DELL AGP VIDEO CARD 128MB DVI 180-10118-0000-A04), which should be able to run it perfectly, but I'm not sure if it is compatible with the computers that need it. And I just can not figure out its specification and SPEED, though I think it is a 4x. Here are some pictures of the cards that I'm THINKING about buying: Here are pictures and details of the computers that I want to put these cards in(Motherboard info taken from CPU-Z and I did my best to guess on the slots): 1. Mobo: i850-w83267. Claims to support AGP 4X. Slot: I believe it is a 1.5v 4x AGP slot. 2. Mobo: Dell OptiPlex GX150. Claims to support AGP 4X. Slot: I believe it is an AGP Universal slot. 3. Mobo: P4M266A-8235. Claims to support AGP 4X. Slot: I think it's an AGP Universal slot, but I can not really tell. 4. Mobo: Microstar MS-6330. Claims to support AGP 1X,2X,4X. Slot: I think it's an AGP Universal slot. I could not find the speed of the cards I'm planning on buying, so I'm hoping one of you could tell me. Also, if it is 4X I believe it should work in all of them, but if it is 1X 2X or 8X will they be able to work anyway? Thanks much!Wikipedia: Quote AGP cards are backward and forward compatible within limits. 1.5 V-only keyed cards will not go into 3.3 V slots and vice versa, though "Universal" slots exist which accept either type of card. AGP Pro cards will not fit into standard slots, but standard AGP cards will work in a Pro slot. Some cards, like Nvidia's GeForce 6 series (except the 6200) or ATI's Radeon X800 series, only have keys for 1.5 V to prevent them from being installed in older mainboards without 1.5 V support. Some of the last modern cards with 3.3 V support were the Nvidia GeForce FX series (FX 5200, FX 5500, FX 5700, some FX 5800, FX 5900 and some FX 5950) and the ATI Radeon 9500/9700/9800(R350) (but not 9600/9800(R360)). Some Geforce 6200 cards will function with AGP 1.0 (3.3v) slots. * Intel 850 is a AGP 1.5V Motherboard SUPPORTS only 1.5V signaling. Available speeds 1x, 2x, 4x.(from link listed below) * Dell OptiPlex GX150: 4X AGP card can be supported (low profile cards for small form-factor and small desktop systems; full-height cards [up to 22.9 cm or 9 inches] for the small mini-tower system) But WOULD agree that looks to be a Universal * Not sure about your third Motherboard. * MSI motherboard: It introduces a 66MHz, 32-bit channel for the graphics controller to directly access main memory and provides three levels of throughputs: 1x (266Mbps), 2x (533Mbps) and 4x (1.07Gbps). Good document on AGP compatibility: http://www.playtool.com/pages/agpcompat/agp.htmlUsing the link you gave me, I have determined that all 4 computers should be able to run the video cards. Hopefully I'm right! Thanks. Good to hear and good luck LAN parties are always fun. Too bad Utah doesn't have the Kill INC LAN parties.

20685.

Solve : AGP Video Graphics Cards Knowledge Needed?

Answer»

Hey!

I have a few old computers set up so that my buds and I can play old games. I wanted to put CoD1 on them all, but a few don't have the graphics capabilities to play it, so I've decided to upgrade some of their video cards, but I need some help.

I found a good deal on a few cards (DELL AGP VIDEO CARD 128MB DVI 180-10118-0000-A04), which should be able to run it perfectly, but I'm not sure if it is compatible with the computers that need it. And I just can not figure out its specification and SPEED, though I think it is a 4x.
Here are some pictures of the cards that I'm THINKING about buying:

Here are pictures and details of the computers that I want to put these cards in(Motherboard info taken from CPU-Z and I did my best to guess on the slots):

1. Mobo: i850-w83267. Claims to support AGP 4X.
Slot: I believe it is a 1.5v 4x AGP slot.

2. Mobo: Dell OptiPlex GX150. Claims to support AGP 4X.
Slot: I believe it is an AGP Universal slot.

3. Mobo: P4M266A-8235. Claims to support AGP 4X.
Slot: I think it's an AGP Universal slot, but I can not really tell.

4. Mobo: Microstar MS-6330. Claims to support AGP 1X,2X,4X.
Slot: I think it's an AGP Universal slot.

I could not find the speed of the cards I'm planning on buying, so I'm hoping one of you could tell me. Also, if it is 4X I believe it should work in all of them, but if it is 1X 2X or 8X will they be able to work anyway?

Thanks much!Wikipedia:
Quote

AGP cards are backward and forward compatible within limits. 1.5 V-only keyed cards will not go into 3.3 V slots and vice versa, though "Universal" slots exist which accept either type of card. AGP Pro cards will not fit into standard slots, but standard AGP cards will work in a Pro slot. Some cards, like Nvidia's GeForce 6 series (except the 6200) or ATI's Radeon X800 series, only have keys for 1.5 V to prevent them from being installed in older mainboards without 1.5 V support. Some of the last modern cards with 3.3 V support were the Nvidia GeForce FX series (FX 5200, FX 5500, FX 5700, some FX 5800, FX 5900 and some FX 5950) and the ATI Radeon 9500/9700/9800(R350) (but not 9600/9800(R360)). Some Geforce 6200 cards will function with AGP 1.0 (3.3v) slots.

* Intel 850 is a AGP 1.5V Motherboard SUPPORTS only 1.5V signaling. Available speeds 1x, 2x, 4x.(from link listed below)

* Dell OptiPlex GX150: 4X AGP card can be supported (low profile cards for small form-factor and small desktop systems; full-height cards [up to 22.9 cm or 9 inches] for the small mini-tower system)

But WOULD agree that looks to be a Universal

* Not sure about your third Motherboard.

* MSI motherboard:
It introduces a 66MHz, 32-bit channel for the graphics controller to directly access main memory and provides three levels of throughputs: 1x (266Mbps), 2x (533Mbps) and 4x (1.07Gbps).

Good document on AGP compatibility:
http://www.playtool.com/pages/agpcompat/agp.htmlUsing the link you gave me, I have determined that all 4 computers should be able to run the video cards.

Hopefully I'm right!

Thanks. Good to hear and good luck LAN parties are always fun. Too bad Utah doesn't have the Kill INC LAN parties.

Discussion

20686.	Solve : TOSHIBA HDD recovery disk lost!?
Answer» Hi. I have just restored my computer after SAYING that it was missing bootmgr. I restored it by going onto a website to download the recovery disk using imgburn and utorrent. Now that it has been restored i went to the start menu and clicked on the toshiba HDD recovery disk creator but my computer is saying: "there is no valid HDD Recovery environment on this computer". Does anyone know how i can recover the HDD recovery disk creator? Matt I wouldn't worry about it. Just install and run (on a regular basis) a disc imaging utility - it is the best recovery option available and everyone should USE one. Acronis True Image is the best but it isn't free. These are: http://www.thefreecountry.com/utilities/backupandimage.shtmlI went to the website you gave me and it looks good to me . I have also downloaded one of the programs off of that website called DriveImage XML and INSTALLED it. i am guessing that is my computer ready to be backed up now yes? Thanks for the website. Matt i forgot to say that i downloaded the recovery disc.torrent file off of my dad's computer and i have already burned it to a DVD-RW disk using imgburn and utorrent on it aswell. This is the website i downloaded the file from: http://neosmart.net/blog/2008/windows-vista-recovery-disc-download/That DLoad will not enable a FULL re0install of the OS should things go awry...it will however load the Recovery Console which has some diagnostics/repair features... Why not order a full replacement CD from Toshiba ? ? It can probably be had for the cost of shipping only...

Discussion

20687.	Solve : new lenovo pc hangs after 30 minutes driving a cnc machine?
Answer» I have a new Lenovo A58 pc with windows 7 32 bit pro. I am running Mach3 to drive a cnc machine via a PARALLEL port. (The Mach3 software is an exact copy from a previous very old win2k machine that failed) The cnc machine ( a router driven by stepper motors) needs pulses from the pc parallel port to work. My problem is after about 30 minutes the cnc machine stops, and the screen appears to 'hang'. I suspect that there is a POWER saving feature that stops the Lenovo machine from working. I have set the 'power MANAGEMENT' settings (disk/display/cpu) to 'never' stop. Not sure if there are any other settings that I could change? Another alternative would be to install a PROGRAM that 'moved' the mouse in the background, so that the pc would re-set the 30 minute timer? If you know enough to turn off the power settings to never, I'm sure you have also set the screen saver to none. You didn't mention it so I had to ask. On some cnc machines the software was written for older OS's, and doesn't ALWAYS work for newer versions of OS's. That would be the next thing I would look at. Although if that's the case the fact it works for 30 minutes is puzzling.

Discussion

20688.	Solve : presario vs. phoenix?
Answer» we are going away for most of august and we don't want to cool the house any more than necessary while the local temperature gets to triple digits....meaning we don't want to fry the computer. just how much heat can the computer stand without damage to circuits and gizmos??Do you mean while they are running or while they're turned off?i will turn the 'puter off just the same as overnight. the router and cable modem would still be on, though, unless an expert tells me that's the wrong thing to do. and maybe even pull the plug out of the strip. but, god, i'd hate to do all that. it'd take me a year to figure how to turn everything back on. i'm a helpless little old lady, and this machine is pretty scary sometimes.Normal ambient house temperature--including triple digits will not hurt your computer.If your desires are to minimize the household draw on the power grid (and coincidentally lower your power usage costs) then unplug all items that draw power and are not necessary. As an example if no one is home and your computer is not going to be used you can unplug your router and cable modem as well. There are methods to minimize the frustration and complication level with a small investment. PURCHASE a multi outlet power bar and plug in all devices associated with the computer to it.Then once you have shut down properly (IE: the computer) you can then turn the power bar off by it's own on/off switch and ALL your devices will then be turned off. When you want to reactivate them just turn the power bar back on and Bob's your uncle--your back in BUSINESS. Other members may come forth and promote power surge security concerns as well. That is a discussion that may ensue.Something i do along those lines is all my devices are on a power bar. If thunderstorms are threatening or I'm to be away for a prolonged period i just unplug the power bar from it's wall outlet for the duration of the event. truenorthQuote from: phobarbenix on July 05, 2010, 12:54:13 AM i will turn the 'puter off just the same as overnight. the router and cable modem would still be on, though, unless an expert tells me that's the wrong thing to do. and maybe even pull the plug out of the strip. but, god, i'd hate to do all that. it'd take me a year to figure how to turn everything back on. i'm a helpless little old lady, and this machine is pretty scary sometimes. How can it be so difficult? Just unplug the router and cable modem from the electrical outlet. When you return, plug them back in. Plug in the modem first and wait until the normal lights have lit on it's display panel. Then, plug in the router. Finally, turn on your computer. I agree with truenorth's SUGGESTIONS about using a "multi outlet power bar". It's an EASY and efficient way to remove several devices from the power source at the same time. thank you everyone. it all sounds easy enough.....even for mePhoenix in August. It's not just the computer you need to worry about. I assume you are going to set the AC for 80 to 90 degrees. If you turn off the AC entirely you will have a lot of other problems. Unplug the electronics, and you should be fine. My parents used to live in the desert in Southern California with a climate a lot like Phoenix and half of their neighbors were Canadians who spent the summer's in Canada and the winters in California. So during the summers the AC in their California home was turned off and most of them learned what would survive the summer temperatures and what wouldn't. Among other things candles don't. All of them took their computers with them to Canada. A good surge protector power strip (and good ones are not the $19.95 ones) is a minimum for a computer and the associated electronics, I prefer a good BATTERY back up power strip, which can also turn off everything with one switch or a single unplug.

20688.

Solve : presario vs. phoenix?

Answer»

we are going away for most of august and we don't want to cool the house any more than necessary while the local temperature gets to triple digits....meaning we don't want to fry the computer. just how much heat can the computer stand without damage to circuits and gizmos??Do you mean while they are running or while they're turned off?i will turn the 'puter off just the same as overnight. the router and cable modem would still be on, though, unless an expert tells me that's the wrong thing to do. and maybe even pull the plug out of the strip. but, god, i'd hate to do all that. it'd take me a year to figure how to turn everything back on. i'm a helpless little old lady, and this machine is pretty scary sometimes.Normal ambient house temperature--including triple digits will not hurt your computer.If your desires are to minimize the household draw on the power grid (and coincidentally lower your power usage costs) then unplug all items that draw power and are not necessary. As an example if no one is home and your computer is not going to be used you can unplug your router and cable modem as well. There are methods to minimize the frustration and complication level with a small investment. PURCHASE a multi outlet power bar and plug in all devices associated with the computer to it.Then once you have shut down properly (IE: the computer) you can then turn the power bar off by it's own on/off switch and ALL your devices will then be turned off. When you want to reactivate them just turn the power bar back on and Bob's your uncle--your back in BUSINESS. Other members may come forth and promote power surge security concerns as well. That is a discussion that may ensue.Something i do along those lines is all my devices are on a power bar. If thunderstorms are threatening or I'm to be away for a prolonged period i just unplug the power bar from it's wall outlet for the duration of the event. truenorthQuote from: phobarbenix on July 05, 2010, 12:54:13 AM

i will turn the 'puter off just the same as overnight. the router and cable modem would still be on, though, unless an expert tells me that's the wrong thing to do. and maybe even pull the plug out of the strip. but, god, i'd hate to do all that. it'd take me a year to figure how to turn everything back on. i'm a helpless little old lady, and this machine is pretty scary sometimes.

How can it be so difficult? Just unplug the router and cable modem from the electrical outlet. When you return, plug them back in. Plug in the modem first and wait until the normal lights have lit on it's display panel. Then, plug in the router. Finally, turn on your computer.

I agree with truenorth's SUGGESTIONS about using a "multi outlet power bar". It's an EASY and efficient way to remove several devices from the power source at the same time. thank you everyone. it all sounds easy enough.....even for mePhoenix in August. It's not just the computer you need to worry about. I assume you are going to set the AC for 80 to 90 degrees. If you turn off the AC entirely you will have a lot of other problems. Unplug the electronics, and you should be fine.

My parents used to live in the desert in Southern California with a climate a lot like Phoenix and half of their neighbors were Canadians who spent the summer's in Canada and the winters in California. So during the summers the AC in their California home was turned off and most of them learned what would survive the summer temperatures and what wouldn't. Among other things candles don't. All of them took their computers with them to Canada.

A good surge protector power strip (and good ones are not the $19.95 ones) is a minimum for a computer and the associated electronics, I prefer a good BATTERY back up power strip, which can also turn off everything with one switch or a single unplug.

Discussion

20689.	Solve : Slow Computer..?
Answer» Hey, My RIG has been slow lately and I just cant figure out what is wrong with it. My specs aer on the side and I'll post some CPU-Z Tabs. I have alsolute no viruses and everything takes forever to load up. Could it that my CPU, RAM or hard drive are wearing down. If more info is needed I more than welcome to provide them. Thanks [recovering disk space - old attachment deleted by admin]Describe what is slow. Also, what is new or different since the last time everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?Quote from: Allan on March 05, 2011, 02:41:44 PM Describe what is slow. Also, what is new or different since the last time everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)? Slow as in when I try OPENING windows live messenger from the system tray it takes about 10-15 seconds to pop up. No new hardware no new software and no viruses whatsoever.Open msconfig and choose selective startup (disable everything from loading) and reboot. Does the problem still occur? If not, start adding items back to msconfig one or two at a time, rebooting after each change, until the problem reappears and you'll have identified the offending process. However, if the problem continues even with the first selective startup we'll LOOK elsewhereQuote from: Allan on March 05, 2011, 02:59:51 PM Open msconfig and choose selective startup (disable everything from loading) and reboot. Does the problem still occur? If not, start adding items back to msconfig one or two at a time, rebooting after each change, until the problem reappears and you'll have identified the offending process. However, if the problem continues even with the first selective startup we'll look elsewhere Ok i did that when i first unticked all of them and that made my computer fast but aero was gone, no wifi, and so on. Then i ticked load system services and that made everything fast with all the start-ups. But still not as fast as it used to. Btw is my Ram working just fine because its supposed to run at 667mhz stock but looking at CPU-Z it shows that its running at 400mhz. Is that normal?That suggests that either you are using memory slower than expected, or a motherboard that doesn't even try to run it at its full speed. CPUs, memory, and hard drives very SELDOM wear down. They're more likely to fail rather QUICKLY and more thoroughly. With Windows 7, 2 GB of memory is not enough to run some of the larger programs. I've found that Crucial tend to offer new types of memory faster than the other sources I've tried. http://www.crucial.com/ You may want to check with your computer's maker to find out just how much memory it can hold. You may also want to check the power settings of your computer - some computers have settings there that can slow down the computer to keep it from overheating - ESPECIALLY laptops.Please ignore the above post - it makes absolutely no sense at all.Quote from: Allan on March 06, 2011, 03:38:10 PM Please ignore the above post - it makes absolutely no sense at all. He's gettin good at that...Quote from: Allan on March 06, 2011, 03:38:10 PM Please ignore the above post - it makes absolutely no sense at all. I kinda get this guy's point. Because my board has overclocking issues and so on. But i dont really know if i do have any wrong settings.. If you guy's need me to post my bios setting ill do thatQuote from: milesrf on March 06, 2011, 03:30:42 PM That suggests that either you are using memory slower than expected, or a motherboard that doesn't even try to run it at its full speed. CPUs, memory, and hard drives very seldom wear down. They're more likely to fail rather quickly and more thoroughly. With Windows 7, 2 GB of memory is not enough to run some of the larger programs. I've found that Crucial tend to offer new types of memory faster than the other sources I've tried. http://www.crucial.com/ You may want to check with your computer's maker to find out just how much memory it can hold. You may also want to check the power settings of your computer - some computers have settings there that can slow down the computer to keep it from overheating - ESPECIALLY laptops. Yeah true I am thinking about buying sli ready memory for my 780i lie two more 1g's with will sum up to 4G's in total. But i do think that as of rightnow my motherboard isnt using the full potential of the RAM CPU and HDD, which I am not entirely sure of.Maybe your computer's fan is in the wall.Quote from: maxum on March 07, 2011, 12:40:22 PM in the wall. In the wall? What does that mean? You know... in the wall.Quote from: Allan on March 07, 2011, 02:00:17 PM You know... in the wall. Oh! Right! Like in the movie? Quote In the Wall (2007) 26 min - Short \| Horror \| Thriller On the eve of the hottest New Year on record, a young pregnant wife happily prepares for the birth of her child. But her secretive husband may have darker plans for the family. I mean your computer may be hoverheating because the wall blocks the aeration fan...

20689.

Solve : Slow Computer..?

Answer»

Hey,

My RIG has been slow lately and I just cant figure out what is wrong with it. My specs aer on the side and I'll post some CPU-Z Tabs. I have alsolute no viruses and everything takes forever to load up. Could it that my CPU, RAM or hard drive are wearing down. If more info is needed I more than welcome to provide them.

Thanks

[recovering disk space - old attachment deleted by admin]Describe what is slow. Also, what is new or different since the last time everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?Quote from: Allan on March 05, 2011, 02:41:44 PM

Describe what is slow. Also, what is new or different since the last time everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?

Slow as in when I try OPENING windows live messenger from the system tray it takes about 10-15 seconds to pop up. No new hardware no new software and no viruses whatsoever.Open msconfig and choose selective startup (disable everything from loading) and reboot. Does the problem still occur? If not, start adding items back to msconfig one or two at a time, rebooting after each change, until the problem reappears and you'll have identified the offending process. However, if the problem continues even with the first selective startup we'll LOOK elsewhereQuote from: Allan on March 05, 2011, 02:59:51 PM

Open msconfig and choose selective startup (disable everything from loading) and reboot. Does the problem still occur? If not, start adding items back to msconfig one or two at a time, rebooting after each change, until the problem reappears and you'll have identified the offending process. However, if the problem continues even with the first selective startup we'll look elsewhere

Ok i did that when i first unticked all of them and that made my computer fast but aero was gone, no wifi, and so on. Then i ticked load system services and that made everything fast with all the start-ups. But still not as fast as it used to. Btw is my Ram working just fine because its supposed to run at 667mhz stock but looking at CPU-Z it shows that its running at 400mhz. Is that normal?That suggests that either you are using memory slower than expected, or a motherboard that doesn't even try to run it at its full speed.

CPUs, memory, and hard drives very SELDOM wear down. They're more likely to fail rather QUICKLY and more thoroughly.

With Windows 7, 2 GB of memory is not enough to run some of the larger programs. I've found that Crucial tend to offer new types of memory faster than the other sources I've tried.

http://www.crucial.com/

You may want to check with your computer's maker to find out just how much memory it can hold.

You may also want to check the power settings of your computer - some computers have settings there that can slow down the computer to keep it from overheating - ESPECIALLY laptops.Please ignore the above post - it makes absolutely no sense at all.Quote from: Allan on March 06, 2011, 03:38:10 PM

Please ignore the above post - it makes absolutely no sense at all.

He's gettin good at that...Quote from: Allan on March 06, 2011, 03:38:10 PM

Please ignore the above post - it makes absolutely no sense at all.

I kinda get this guy's point. Because my board has overclocking issues and so on. But i dont really know if i do have any wrong settings.. If you guy's need me to post my bios setting ill do thatQuote from: milesrf on March 06, 2011, 03:30:42 PM

That suggests that either you are using memory slower than expected, or a motherboard that doesn't even try to run it at its full speed.

CPUs, memory, and hard drives very seldom wear down. They're more likely to fail rather quickly and more thoroughly.

With Windows 7, 2 GB of memory is not enough to run some of the larger programs. I've found that Crucial tend to offer new types of memory faster than the other sources I've tried.

http://www.crucial.com/

You may want to check with your computer's maker to find out just how much memory it can hold.

You may also want to check the power settings of your computer - some computers have settings there that can slow down the computer to keep it from overheating - ESPECIALLY laptops.

Yeah true I am thinking about buying sli ready memory for my 780i lie two more 1g's with will sum up to 4G's in total. But i do think that as of rightnow my motherboard isnt using the full potential of the RAM CPU and HDD, which I am not entirely sure of.Maybe your computer's fan is in the wall.Quote from: maxum on March 07, 2011, 12:40:22 PM

in the wall.

In the wall? What does that mean?
You know... in the wall.Quote from: Allan on March 07, 2011, 02:00:17 PM

You know... in the wall.

Oh! Right! Like in the movie?

Quote

In the Wall (2007)

26 min - Short | Horror | Thriller

On the eve of the hottest New Year on record, a young pregnant wife happily prepares for the birth of her child. But her secretive husband may have darker plans for the family.

I mean your computer may be hoverheating because the wall blocks the aeration fan...

Discussion

20690.	Solve : Computer speakers won't work after using HDMI cable for monitor?
Answer» We just installed a new video card in my boss' PC (Dell XPS tower) I'm honestly unsure of all the specs, but he does run Windows XP Pro. The video card we just put in has a VGA, DVI and HDMI port on the back. We have connected his monitor via the HDMI port and the only sound we are getting is through his monitor's speakers which sound like crap. We WANT to get the sound to come out of his computer speakers instead of the monitor. I know the sound is coming over the HDMI cable now, but even when I plug the other speakers into his audio port on the motherboard, nothing comes out of those speakers. It's like the HDMI cable takes over everything and won't let any of the other sound ports work. Is there a way to USE the HDMI cable and computer speakers? Or is it going to be one or the other? Thanks for any help!Hello Beanhead... Welcome back Try changing the default audio device Start > Control Panel > Sounds, Speech and Audio Devices > Sounds and Audio Devices > Go to the "audio" tab and change to the on-board sound device ..::Merlyn::..Are there audio OUTPUTS on the monitor? That may be an easy way to hook up the speakers.Quote from: ..::Merlyn::.. on July 01, 2010, 03:03:41 PM Hello Beanhead... Welcome back Try changing the default audio device Start > Control Panel > Sounds, Speech and Audio Devices > Sounds and Audio Devices > Go to the "audio" tab and change to the on-board sound device ..::Merlyn::.. This will be it. You installed a newer ATi HD series card, YES? These cards have a 'sound card' built into the HDMI (DVI also with HDMI adapter) ports that ALLOWS the computer to be used for a home theater setup. When the card was installed, the audio driver was as well, and the sound device changed to the HDMI line.win? Thanks for all the help! I will be trying that today. I'll let you know if it works or not. Thanks again! Just wanted to give a quick update, I changed the default audio device back to the onboard audio and it worked like a charm! Can't believe I didn't think of that. Oh well, at least I know what to do next time. Thanks again everyone!You're welcome!

20690.

Solve : Computer speakers won't work after using HDMI cable for monitor?

Answer»

We just installed a new video card in my boss' PC (Dell XPS tower) I'm honestly unsure of all the specs, but he does run Windows XP Pro. The video card we just put in has a VGA, DVI and HDMI port on the back. We have connected his monitor via the HDMI port and the only sound we are getting is through his monitor's speakers which sound like crap. We WANT to get the sound to come out of his computer speakers instead of the monitor. I know the sound is coming over the HDMI cable now, but even when I plug the other speakers into his audio port on the motherboard, nothing comes out of those speakers. It's like the HDMI cable takes over everything and won't let any of the other sound ports work. Is there a way to USE the HDMI cable and computer speakers? Or is it going to be one or the other? Thanks for any help!Hello Beanhead...
Welcome back

Try changing the default audio device

Start > Control Panel > Sounds, Speech and Audio Devices > Sounds and Audio Devices > Go to the "audio" tab and change to the on-board sound device

..::Merlyn::..Are there audio OUTPUTS on the monitor? That may be an easy way to hook up the speakers.Quote from: ..::Merlyn::.. on July 01, 2010, 03:03:41 PM

Hello Beanhead...
Welcome back

Try changing the default audio device

Start > Control Panel > Sounds, Speech and Audio Devices > Sounds and Audio Devices > Go to the "audio" tab and change to the on-board sound device

..::Merlyn::..

This will be it. You installed a newer ATi HD series card, YES?
These cards have a 'sound card' built into the HDMI (DVI also with HDMI adapter) ports that ALLOWS the computer to be used for a home theater setup.
When the card was installed, the audio driver was as well, and the sound device changed to the HDMI line.win? Thanks for all the help! I will be trying that today. I'll let you know if it works or not. Thanks again! Just wanted to give a quick update, I changed the default audio device back to the onboard audio and it worked like a charm! Can't believe I didn't think of that. Oh well, at least I know what to do next time. Thanks again everyone!You're welcome!

Discussion

20691.	Solve : External drive problems?
Answer» A few weeks ago a knocked my external drive off the desk (sata 500gig usb), when i connect it to any pc, the disk SPINS up and sounds like its working but I never get anything on the pc. I have since got a new caddy for it thinking it may have been a broken connection but ive got the same RESULTS! anyone got any ideas??? Thanks.after POSTING this it seems to be working! so never mind. Thanks anyway!. Glad we could help with our new transparent remote diagnostic and repair software. You likely were not EVEN aware of what we were doing while you were waiting. There is not any charge for this service feature.yip excellent work! will recommend to all!

Discussion

20692.	Solve : Gateway NV53A36U CMOS battery problem? Help fixing it, if so, please.?
Answer» System Info: Gateway NV53A-36u with WIN7 Home Premium 64-bit RAM: 4GB DDR3 Processor: AMD Phenom II N830 Triple-Core @ 2.10GHz GRAPHICS: ATI Mobility Radeon HD 5650 w/ 2GB available graphics memory HD: 284 GB (can't find info on speed but I'm sure this isn't an HD problem) Problem: -Upon restarting, my system date/time RESETS to factory defaults (sometime in 2008). -Some of my notification TREY icons are missing and the ones there are spread out across my entire Windows taskbar with blank spaces between them. -When restarting, it won't reboot (keeps trying to, shutting down, trying to, shutting down) unless I close and reopen the lid. Gateway support thinks it's a faulty CMOS BATTERY but they've misdiagnosed my problems before (saying I needed a new HD when a previous problem was caused by a simple Windows error that only required a Windows reinstall) Steps I've taken in attempts to resolve issue: Ran a safe mode full system virus scan with AVG Pro 2012. -Restored to before problems began using System Restore. -Reset BIOS settings within the BIOS setup menu Specific questions I have: -Does this sound like a CMOS battery problem to you? -Is there a way to figure out exactly what type/model of CMOS battery I'll need to replace my current one WITHOUT opening my laptop and physically examining the current (factory installed) CMOS battery? -Does anybody know, either precisely or generally, how to access the CMOS battery on this laptop? Gateway claims it's not accessible to users, but that I can give it to them to fix for $200, so I don't particularly trust their word. I've replaced RAM on laptops before and could do so blindfolded, so I'm pretty confident in opening laptops and messing about inside. I've never opened this one (so I didn't mess something up accidentally, at least not that way). That said, with instructions, I'd be more than comfortable doing this, myself instead of sending it to Gateway for a 15 minute and $5 repair that will cost me $200. Sorry this is so long, just wanted to make sure I got as much out there in the initial post as possible. If any additional info is needed, I'll certainly do my best to get it. Thank you in advance for the help, I really, really appreciate it.Is it out of warranty? Is the computer about one year OLD? Quote Gateway support thinks it's a faulty CMOS battery but they've misdiagnosed my problems before (saying I needed a new HD when a previous problem was caused by a simple Windows error that only required a Windows reinstall) How do you know it was NOT a HD error? If you are an diagnostic expert, why are you asking nus? Do you not imagine that the Dell company has had some experience with its own products? Neither the HD not the Windows systems should fail non a new PC. Any premature failure puts every tung about the PC under suspicion. You can try no replace the CMOS cell, but it is an item that fails after years, not months of use. So it is deep inside the case. See the service manual. Look under the keyboard.I have had alot of laptops now where the CMOS battery is either in with the RAM, or in with the wifi card. (These both usually have plastic covers.) And I have had quite a few where the battery is a standard one, sealed in plastic with a cable pre-attatched.

20692.

Solve : Gateway NV53A36U CMOS battery problem? Help fixing it, if so, please.?

Answer»

System Info: Gateway NV53A-36u with WIN7 Home Premium 64-bit
RAM: 4GB DDR3
Processor: AMD Phenom II N830 Triple-Core @ 2.10GHz
GRAPHICS: ATI Mobility Radeon HD 5650 w/ 2GB available graphics memory
HD: 284 GB (can't find info on speed but I'm sure this isn't an HD problem)

Problem: -Upon restarting, my system date/time RESETS to factory defaults (sometime in 2008).
-Some of my notification TREY icons are missing and the ones there are spread out across my entire Windows taskbar with blank spaces between them.
-When restarting, it won't reboot (keeps trying to, shutting down, trying to, shutting down) unless I close and reopen the lid.

Gateway support thinks it's a faulty CMOS BATTERY but they've misdiagnosed my problems before (saying I needed a new HD when a previous problem was caused by a simple Windows error that only required a Windows reinstall)

Steps I've taken in attempts to resolve issue: Ran a safe mode full system virus scan with AVG Pro 2012.
-Restored to before problems began using System Restore.
-Reset BIOS settings within the BIOS setup menu

Specific questions I have:
-Does this sound like a CMOS battery problem to you?
-Is there a way to figure out exactly what type/model of CMOS battery I'll need to replace my current one WITHOUT opening my laptop and physically examining the current (factory installed) CMOS battery?
-Does anybody know, either precisely or generally, how to access the CMOS battery on this laptop? Gateway claims it's not accessible to users, but that I can give it to them to fix for $200, so I don't particularly trust their word.

I've replaced RAM on laptops before and could do so blindfolded, so I'm pretty confident in opening laptops and messing about inside. I've never opened this one (so I didn't mess something up accidentally, at least not that way). That said, with instructions, I'd be more than comfortable doing this, myself instead of sending it to Gateway for a 15 minute and $5 repair that will cost me $200.

Sorry this is so long, just wanted to make sure I got as much out there in the initial post as possible. If any additional info is needed, I'll certainly do my best to get it. Thank you in advance for the help, I really, really appreciate it.Is it out of warranty? Is the computer about one year OLD?
Quote

Gateway support thinks it's a faulty CMOS battery but they've misdiagnosed my problems before (saying I needed a new HD when a previous problem was caused by a simple Windows error that only required a Windows reinstall)

How do you know it was NOT a HD error? If you are an diagnostic expert, why are you asking nus? Do you not imagine that the Dell company has had some experience with its own products? Neither the HD not the Windows systems should fail non a new PC. Any premature failure puts every tung about the PC under suspicion.
You can try no replace the CMOS cell, but it is an item that fails after years, not months of use. So it is deep inside the case. See the service manual. Look under the keyboard.I have had alot of laptops now where the CMOS battery is either in with the RAM, or in with the wifi card. (These both usually have plastic covers.)

And I have had quite a few where the battery is a standard one, sealed in plastic with a cable pre-attatched.

Discussion

20693.	Solve : Compatiblility of wireless mouse?
Answer» I have a Lenovo Laptop and have a Logictech wireless mouse but it seems to cause issues when we try to use it with the Laptop. I have it thru the USB on my DESK top and have not found an ISSUE. Any ideas why my laptop acts up when using it there.WHAT issues does it cause? Have you installed the driver?What are the O/S's on these 2 computers?truenorthQuote from: truenorth on July 04, 2010, 06:44:41 PM What are the O/S's on these 2 computers?truenorth I only see one computer mentioned in the OP."USB on my desk top and have not found an issue"=Computer #1 I have a Lenovo Laptop=computer #2 truenorth Quote from: truenorth on July 05, 2010, 10:52:34 AM "USB on my desk top and have not found an issue"=Computer #1 I have a Lenovo Laptop=computer #2 truenorth Gotcha. Thanks for clarifying that.You may need to DISABLE the Touchpad for an external to work properly...consult your Lenovo manual.

20693.

Solve : Compatiblility of wireless mouse?

Answer»

I have a Lenovo Laptop and have a Logictech wireless mouse but it seems to cause issues when we try to use it with the Laptop. I have it thru the USB on my DESK top and have not found an ISSUE. Any ideas why my laptop acts up when using it there.WHAT issues does it cause?

Have you installed the driver?What are the O/S's on these 2 computers?truenorthQuote from: truenorth on July 04, 2010, 06:44:41 PM

What are the O/S's on these 2 computers?truenorth

I only see one computer mentioned in the OP."USB on my desk top and have not found an issue"=Computer #1
I have a Lenovo Laptop=computer #2
truenorth
Quote from: truenorth on July 05, 2010, 10:52:34 AM

"USB on my desk top and have not found an issue"=Computer #1
I have a Lenovo Laptop=computer #2
truenorth

Gotcha. Thanks for clarifying that.You may need to DISABLE the Touchpad for an external to work properly...consult your Lenovo manual.

Discussion

20694.	Solve : help requested with asus a8n-la motherboard?
Answer» the motherboard on my compaq PRESARIO sr1950nx has died, HP not longer stocks or sells this motherboard, had it in to a shop and they say the power suplly is good but the board is dead, just baffles me that hp has discontinued the board on a 3 1/2 year old computer its an asus a8n-la, nagami2-gl8e made by asus specifically for hp looking for some pointer to verify that the board is gone and also info to help me get the right board from ebay (there are lots listed) HP is no help at all, all they suggest is buy a new HP when I TURN the computer on the cooling fans come on at full speed but thats it, no VIDEO no beeps, no attempt to boot either from dvd or hd I have been TOLD by hp that since the tattoo on the replacement motherboard wont match that my restore disc nor software on the hard drive will not WORK, but ti has also been suggested to me that if the board is a close enough match the software may not notice, has anyone just switched same model motherboard without issue? so how do I interpret the numbers on my board to get a right match the board model is a8n-la nagami2-gl8e, there are lots of this board on ebay but some seen to have numbers that differ from my board my numbers are M981Q7 2.00 801 hp pn 5188 5067 (there are various boards on ebay with sliht variations of the above number) C65S184-00510 which of these number do I have to match? and whats the odd that a close match will just install without creating issues with the tattoo on the motherboard bios? Thanks for any and all help and suggestions Bill I am very surprised that none of our gurus have come forth with anything on this topic.It is usually the kind that brings forth the "experts" and your issue is well explained as well.truenorthJust exactly what did your post add to the thread, truenorth? Bill, it sounds like your motherboard, or something major on it, like the COU or RAM, is dead. Quote when I turn the computer on the cooling fans come on at full speed but thats it, no video no beeps, no attempt to boot either from dvd or hd What is a "tattoo"? THis mobo $152.99 refurbished http://www.pacificgeek.com/product.asp?c=211&s=1044&ID=105115&P=F But I would not spend $150 on a 3.5 yr old computer. Especially since it might still not work. See Here... I would assume any A8n-La would work...just be sure to use the drivers that come with the board instead of the HP ones...Salmon, It should be self evident what it " what did your post add the the thread" truenorthQuote from: truenorth on July 05, 2010, 10:47:52 AM Salmon, It should be self evident what it " what did your post add the the thread" truenorth It is evident. It added nothing. My last word--i don't think billhiggs (the O/P) will agree with you.truenorthAll you did was express surprise that nobody had answered yet. How did that help the OP decide what to do? Enough... Let's wait for the OP to Post back.

20694.

Solve : help requested with asus a8n-la motherboard?

Answer»

the motherboard on my compaq PRESARIO sr1950nx has died, HP not longer stocks or sells this motherboard, had it in to a shop and they say the power suplly is good but the board is dead, just baffles me that hp has discontinued the board on a 3 1/2 year old computer

its an asus a8n-la, nagami2-gl8e made by asus specifically for hp

looking for some pointer to verify that the board is gone

and also info to help me get the right board from ebay (there are lots listed) HP is no help at all, all they suggest is buy a new HP

when I TURN the computer on the cooling fans come on at full speed but thats it, no VIDEO no beeps, no attempt to boot either from dvd or hd

I have been TOLD by hp that since the tattoo on the replacement motherboard wont match that my restore disc nor software on the hard drive will not WORK, but ti has also been suggested to me that if the board is a close enough match the software may not notice, has anyone just switched same model motherboard without issue?

so how do I interpret the numbers on my board to get a right match

the board model is a8n-la nagami2-gl8e, there are lots of this board on ebay but some seen to have numbers that differ from my board

my numbers are
M981Q7
2.00 801
hp pn 5188 5067
(there are various boards on ebay with sliht variations of the above number)
C65S184-00510

which of these number do I have to match? and whats the odd that a close match will just install without creating issues with the tattoo on the motherboard bios?

Thanks for any and all help and suggestions

Bill
I am very surprised that none of our gurus have come forth with anything on this topic.It is usually the kind that brings forth the "experts" and your issue is well explained as well.truenorthJust exactly what did your post add to the thread, truenorth?

Bill, it sounds like your motherboard, or something major on it, like the COU or RAM, is dead.

Quote

when I turn the computer on the cooling fans come on at full speed but thats it, no video no beeps, no attempt to boot either from dvd or hd

What is a "tattoo"?

THis mobo $152.99 refurbished

http://www.pacificgeek.com/product.asp?c=211&s=1044&ID=105115&P=F

But I would not spend $150 on a 3.5 yr old computer. Especially since it might still not work.

See Here...

I would assume any A8n-La would work...just be sure to use the drivers that come with the board instead of the HP ones...Salmon, It should be self evident what it " what did your post add the the thread" truenorthQuote from: truenorth on July 05, 2010, 10:47:52 AM

Salmon, It should be self evident what it " what did your post add the the thread" truenorth

It is evident. It added nothing.
My last word--i don't think billhiggs (the O/P) will agree with you.truenorthAll you did was express surprise that nobody had answered yet. How did that help the OP decide what to do?
Enough...

Let's wait for the OP to Post back.

Discussion

20695.	Solve : "no speakers are plugged in"...but they are?
Answer» Remove the soundcard and its driver from your PC first and use the onboard sound.In patio's words: "Clear as mud." Quote from: jason2074 on September 21, 2011, 11:16:32 PM Remove the soundcard and its driver from your PC first and use the onboard sound. The Realtek soundcard is onboard... and the "NVIDIA High Definition Audio" is installed for S/PDIF passthrough (on older cards-newer cards also have the driver, which is used for direct audio output through HDMI; all audio is transferred through the PCI-E bus). He only has one soundcard, and its malfunctioning. Quote from: kamikaze33 on September 21, 2011, 08:01:16 PM Also, before i got this graphics card, as far as i know Nvidia NEVER governed my sound; the only Nvidia brand hardware i have is my graphics card. I went through every Nvidia option from its control center, and found nothing related to sound. You are right-the problem has nothing to do with your graphics-S/PDIF requires a functioning audio driver to begin with. http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/600/2 What S/PDIF is and how to use it. I am really digressing here. Could you try downloading your Realtek Audio Driver and reinstalling it? when you run the setup executable there may be an option to "repair installation."Quote from: Transfusion on September 22, 2011, 05:31:31 AM In patio's words: "Clear as mud." The Realtek soundcard is onboard... and the "NVIDIA High Definition Audio" is installed for S/PDIF passthrough (on older cards-newer cards also have the driver, which is used for direct audio output through HDMI; all audio is transferred through the PCI-E bus). He only has one soundcard, and its malfunctioning.You are right-the problem has nothing to do with your graphics-S/PDIF requires a functioning audio driver to begin with. http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/600/2 What S/PDIF is and how to use it. I am really digressing here. Could you try downloading your Realtek Audio Driver and reinstalling it? when you run the setup executable there may be an option to "repair installation." sorry, i am confused as to why i need to be using the S/PDIF route? ive located the two connectors, gotta find a cable for them though. Is this option so that i can have hd sound though? cause im not using hdmi for anything. i only want my two monitors to work. and have sound on my computer ill try playing with the realtek drivers EDIT: in trying to update the realtek driver, to get the driver, i had to download driver detective (bad i thought...), and driver detective is telling me the device is not plugged in... its onboard, i never unplugged anything, fml this is starting to piss me off!!!I have also tried going through Realtek's website. their drivers are continually crashing also...Quote from: kamikaze33 on September 22, 2011, 02:25:38 PM sorry, i am confused as to why i need to be using the S/PDIF route? ive located the two connectors, gotta find a cable for them though. Is this option so that i can have hd sound though? cause im not using hdmi for anything. i only want my two monitors to work. and have sound on my computer ill try playing with the realtek drivers EDIT: in trying to update the realtek driver, to get the driver, i had to download driver detective (bad i thought...), and driver detective is telling me the device is not plugged in... its onboard, i never unplugged anything, fml this is starting to piss me off!!! No you don't need to go the S/PDIF route-I brought that up to explain the presence of an "NVIDIA High Definition Sound" in your Device manager. That is not related to the main problem. We want your onboard sound back up and running. Have you tried manually uninstalling the "High Definition Audio Device" in Device Manager? (right-click, then Uninstall).Quote from: kamikaze33 on September 22, 2011, 04:28:59 PM I have also tried going through Realtek's website. their drivers are continually crashing also... Don't use Realtek's generic driver, use the one from HP. Completely uninstall any driver that's currently installed for it, download from HP, then reinstall. If that doesn't work, there could well be a problem with the onboard chipset.Quote from: Transfusion on September 22, 2011, 08:45:11 PM No you don't need to go the S/PDIF route-I brought that up to explain the presence of an "NVIDIA High Definition Sound" in your Device manager. That is not related to the main problem. We want your onboard sound back up and running. Have you tried manually uninstalling the "High Definition Audio Device" in Device Manager? (right-click, then Uninstall). uninstalled them all successfully... Quote from: quaxo on September 22, 2011, 09:29:09 PM Don't use Realtek's generic driver, use the one from HP. Completely uninstall any driver that's currently installed for it, download from HP, then reinstall. If that doesn't work, there could well be a problem with the onboard chipset. under this link you sent me: ( http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/softwareCategory?cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en&os=4062&product=3445431&sw_lang=&#N152 ) i dont see any sound-related drivers? just the lightscribe one? EDIT: i notice if i use VISTA as the operating system, there are significantly more updates. The computer initially came with vista, but crashed a while back and i have since been running Windows 7. i dont have the drivers, but hp doesnt offer anything for windows 7 it looks like...Try the Vista driver and see if it works (sometimes they work fine with Windows 7). If it doesn't, uninstall it and we'll try something else.See this link ->Where do I LOCATE MOTHERBOARD sound drivers? Read the motherboard chipset driver.tried the vista drivers, wont work because i "do not meet the minimum requirements" (not running vista) would it be possible to have someone quite literally hold my hand through this? i am having absolutely no LUCK whatsoever with any of this. my motherboard is here: http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01080282&tmp_task=prodinfoCategory&cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en&product=3445431#N234 under that, i see my motherboard name is the Asus M2N68-LA. i go to ASUSTeK's wbesite to get the drivers. The 'autodetect' feature fails repeatedly. I go to manually find the motherboard. Perform a 'search,' which returns NOTHING. These are the motherboards they have listed: M2N68 M2N68-AM M2N68-AM SE M2N68-CM M2N68 PLUS M2N68-AM PLUS M2N68-AM SE2 M2N68-VM M2N68 SE M2N68-AM PLUS/ION/SI WHERE THE censored IS MY MOTHERBOARD!?!?!?! not there Oh... I see.... Your PC does not have any official driver support for windows 7, both the 32-bt and the 64-bit one. It only has support for Vista. We have got a problem. Your "Asus" motherboard was probably designed just for HP and is not available mainstream-thus explaining the lack of support on the Asus website. http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/316-compatibility-mode.html Try doing this with the driver installer that refuses to run on Windows 7.Quote from: Transfusion on September 24, 2011, 08:53:50 PM Oh... I see.... Your PC does not have any official driver support for windows 7, both the 32-bt and the 64-bit one. It only has support for Vista. We have got a problem. Your "Asus" motherboard was probably designed just for HP and is not available mainstream-thus explaining the lack of support on the Asus website. http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/316-compatibility-mode.html Try doing this with the driver installer that refuses to run on Windows 7. i got one of the drivers to actually carry out its install without crashing this time, but it still made no difference to the system; same error message that nothing is plugged in, same no-sound coming from my speakers Quote from: kamikaze33 on September 20, 2011, 10:40:21 PM it was a pre-built, all i installed was the graphics card. my audio chipset is integrated, speakers work fine on an mp3 and if i hook another set up to the desktop same problem persists. how do i go about finding my motherboard info? i believe the model number is 7th down in the 1st screenshot i posted Yes, the GG...-ABA is the full model number. The A6109n could be the HP identifier for the MOBO manufacturer's part number. It's likely the manuf. part number is silkscreened on the mobo. Also, you should also be able to identify the sound chip on the motherboard, by looking at it. Here's a pic of it from HP: http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01080282&tmp_task=prodinfoCategory&cc=us&dlc=en&lang=en&lc=en&product=3445431 It's an Asus motherboard. I can't make out the writing on the sound chip. It's the one next to the audio connectors. Specs say: Realtek ALC888S The computer I'm on now has onboard Realtek. The driver file readme says: Driver Package R2.65 Realtek HD Audio Driver support all of Realtek HD Audio Codec . 1. Vista/Windows 7 WHQL Supporting: ALC882, ALC883, ALC885, ALC886, ALC887, ALC888, ALC889, ALC892, ALC899, ALC861VD, ALC660, ALC662, ALC663, ALC665, ALC670, ALC672, ALC676, ALC680, ALC221, ALC231, ALC260, ALC262, ALC267, ALC268, ALC269, ALC270, ALC272, ALC273, ALC275, ALC276 2. Windows 2000/XP WHQL Supporting: ALC880, ALC882, ALC883, ALC885, ALC886, ALC887, ALC888, ALC889, ALC892, ALC899, ALC861VC, ALC861VD, ALC660, ALC662, ALC663, ALC665, ALC670, ALC672, ALC676, ALC680 ALC221, ALC231, ALC260, ALC262, ALC267,ALC268, ALC269, ALC270, ALC272, ALC273, ALC275, ALC276 3. HDMI Device WHQL Support: ATI HDMI Devices 4. OS Supporting: Microsoft Windows XP, Windows 2000, Windows Server 2003, Vista, Windows Server 2008, Windows7 - x86/x64 5. Pack with Microsoft High Definition Audio UAAV1.0a(5013) For Windows 2000 SP4, XP SP1, XP SP2, Server 2003 SP1. You can get the file here: http://218.210.127.131/downloads/downloadsCheck.aspx?Langid=1&PNid=24&PFid=24&Level=4&Conn=3&DownTypeID=3&GetDown=false#High%20Definition%20Audio%20CodecsQuote from: Computer_Commando on September 25, 2011, 04:05:13 PM Yes, the GG...-ABA is the full model number. The A6109n could be the HP identifier for the mobo manufacturer's part number. It's likely the manuf. part number is silkscreened on the mobo. Also, you should also be able to identify the sound chip on the motherboard, by looking at it. Here's a pic of it from HP: http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01080282&tmp_task=prodinfoCategory&cc=us&dlc=en&lang=en&lc=en&product=3445431 It's an Asus motherboard. I can't make out the writing on the sound chip. It's the one next to the audio connectors. Specs say: Realtek ALC888S The computer I'm on now has onboard Realtek. The driver file readme says: Driver Package R2.65 Realtek HD Audio Driver support all of Realtek HD Audio Codec . 1. Vista/Windows 7 WHQL Supporting: ALC882, ALC883, ALC885, ALC886, ALC887, ALC888, ALC889, ALC892, ALC899, ALC861VD, ALC660, ALC662, ALC663, ALC665, ALC670, ALC672, ALC676, ALC680, ALC221, ALC231, ALC260, ALC262, ALC267, ALC268, ALC269, ALC270, ALC272, ALC273, ALC275, ALC276 2. Windows 2000/XP WHQL Supporting: ALC880, ALC882, ALC883, ALC885, ALC886, ALC887, ALC888, ALC889, ALC892, ALC899, ALC861VC, ALC861VD, ALC660, ALC662, ALC663, ALC665, ALC670, ALC672, ALC676, ALC680 ALC221, ALC231, ALC260, ALC262, ALC267,ALC268, ALC269, ALC270, ALC272, ALC273, ALC275, ALC276 3. HDMI Device WHQL Support: ATI HDMI Devices 4. OS Supporting: Microsoft Windows XP, Windows 2000, Windows Server 2003, Vista, Windows Server 2008, Windows7 - x86/x64 5. Pack with Microsoft High Definition Audio UAAV1.0a(5013) For Windows 2000 SP4, XP SP1, XP SP2, Server 2003 SP1. You can get the file here: http://218.210.127.131/downloads/downloadsCheck.aspx?Langid=1&PNid=24&PFid=24&Level=4&Conn=3&DownTypeID=3&GetDown=false#High%20Definition%20Audio%20Codecs i successfully downloaded/installation completed, but i still have no sound? i still have the 4 hdmi audio devices from before showing up as not connected

20695.

Solve : "no speakers are plugged in"...but they are?

Answer»

Remove the soundcard and its driver from your PC first and use the onboard sound.In patio's words: "Clear as mud."

Quote from: jason2074 on September 21, 2011, 11:16:32 PM

Remove the soundcard and its driver from your PC first and use the onboard sound.

The Realtek soundcard is onboard... and the "NVIDIA High Definition Audio" is installed for S/PDIF passthrough (on older cards-newer cards also have the driver, which is used for direct audio output through HDMI; all audio is transferred through the PCI-E bus). He only has one soundcard, and its malfunctioning.
Quote from: kamikaze33 on September 21, 2011, 08:01:16 PM

Also, before i got this graphics card, as far as i know Nvidia NEVER governed my sound; the only Nvidia brand hardware i have is my graphics card. I went through every Nvidia option from its control center, and found nothing related to sound.

You are right-the problem has nothing to do with your graphics-S/PDIF requires a functioning audio driver to begin with.
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/600/2
What S/PDIF is and how to use it. I am really digressing here.

Could you try downloading your Realtek Audio Driver and reinstalling it? when you run the setup executable there may be an option to "repair installation."Quote from: Transfusion on September 22, 2011, 05:31:31 AM

In patio's words: "Clear as mud."

The Realtek soundcard is onboard... and the "NVIDIA High Definition Audio" is installed for S/PDIF passthrough (on older cards-newer cards also have the driver, which is used for direct audio output through HDMI; all audio is transferred through the PCI-E bus). He only has one soundcard, and its malfunctioning.You are right-the problem has nothing to do with your graphics-S/PDIF requires a functioning audio driver to begin with.
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/600/2
What S/PDIF is and how to use it. I am really digressing here.

Could you try downloading your Realtek Audio Driver and reinstalling it? when you run the setup executable there may be an option to "repair installation."

sorry, i am confused as to why i need to be using the S/PDIF route? ive located the two connectors, gotta find a cable for them though. Is this option so that i can have hd sound though? cause im not using hdmi for anything. i only want my two monitors to work. and have sound on my computer ill try playing with the realtek drivers

EDIT: in trying to update the realtek driver, to get the driver, i had to download driver detective (bad i thought...), and driver detective is telling me the device is not plugged in... its onboard, i never unplugged anything, fml this is starting to piss me off!!!I have also tried going through Realtek's website. their drivers are continually crashing also...Quote from: kamikaze33 on September 22, 2011, 02:25:38 PM

sorry, i am confused as to why i need to be using the S/PDIF route? ive located the two connectors, gotta find a cable for them though. Is this option so that i can have hd sound though? cause im not using hdmi for anything. i only want my two monitors to work. and have sound on my computer ill try playing with the realtek drivers

EDIT: in trying to update the realtek driver, to get the driver, i had to download driver detective (bad i thought...), and driver detective is telling me the device is not plugged in... its onboard, i never unplugged anything, fml this is starting to piss me off!!!

No you don't need to go the S/PDIF route-I brought that up to explain the presence of an "NVIDIA High Definition Sound" in your Device manager. That is not related to the main problem. We want your onboard sound back up and running.

Have you tried manually uninstalling the "High Definition Audio Device" in Device Manager? (right-click, then Uninstall).Quote from: kamikaze33 on September 22, 2011, 04:28:59 PM

I have also tried going through Realtek's website. their drivers are continually crashing also...

Don't use Realtek's generic driver, use the one from HP.

Completely uninstall any driver that's currently installed for it, download from HP, then reinstall. If that doesn't work, there could well be a problem with the onboard chipset.Quote from: Transfusion on September 22, 2011, 08:45:11 PM

No you don't need to go the S/PDIF route-I brought that up to explain the presence of an "NVIDIA High Definition Sound" in your Device manager. That is not related to the main problem. We want your onboard sound back up and running.

Have you tried manually uninstalling the "High Definition Audio Device" in Device Manager? (right-click, then Uninstall).

uninstalled them all successfully...

Quote from: quaxo on September 22, 2011, 09:29:09 PM

Don't use Realtek's generic driver, use the one from HP.

Completely uninstall any driver that's currently installed for it, download from HP, then reinstall. If that doesn't work, there could well be a problem with the onboard chipset.

under this link you sent me: ( http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/softwareCategory?cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en&os=4062&product=3445431&sw_lang=&#N152 ) i dont see any sound-related drivers? just the lightscribe one?

EDIT: i notice if i use VISTA as the operating system, there are significantly more updates. The computer initially came with vista, but crashed a while back and i have since been running Windows 7. i dont have the drivers, but hp doesnt offer anything for windows 7 it looks like...Try the Vista driver and see if it works (sometimes they work fine with Windows 7).

If it doesn't, uninstall it and we'll try something else.See this link ->Where do I LOCATE MOTHERBOARD sound drivers?
Read the motherboard chipset driver.tried the vista drivers, wont work because i "do not meet the minimum requirements" (not running vista)

would it be possible to have someone quite literally hold my hand through this? i am having absolutely no LUCK whatsoever with any of this.
my motherboard is here: http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01080282&tmp_task=prodinfoCategory&cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en&product=3445431#N234

under that, i see my motherboard name is the Asus M2N68-LA.
i go to ASUSTeK's wbesite to get the drivers. The 'autodetect' feature fails repeatedly. I go to manually find the motherboard. Perform a 'search,' which returns NOTHING. These are the motherboards they have listed:
M2N68 M2N68-AM M2N68-AM SE M2N68-CM
M2N68 PLUS M2N68-AM PLUS M2N68-AM SE2 M2N68-VM
M2N68 SE M2N68-AM PLUS/ION/SI

WHERE THE *censored* IS MY MOTHERBOARD!?!?!?! not there Oh... I see....
Your PC does not have any official driver support for windows 7, both the 32-bt and the 64-bit one. It only has support for Vista. We have got a problem.

Your "Asus" motherboard was probably designed just for HP and is not available mainstream-thus explaining the lack of support on the Asus website.

http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/316-compatibility-mode.html
Try doing this with the driver installer that refuses to run on Windows 7.Quote from: Transfusion on September 24, 2011, 08:53:50 PM

Oh... I see....
Your PC does not have any official driver support for windows 7, both the 32-bt and the 64-bit one. It only has support for Vista. We have got a problem.

Your "Asus" motherboard was probably designed just for HP and is not available mainstream-thus explaining the lack of support on the Asus website.

http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/316-compatibility-mode.html
Try doing this with the driver installer that refuses to run on Windows 7.

i got one of the drivers to actually carry out its install without crashing this time, but it still made no difference to the system; same error message that nothing is plugged in, same no-sound coming from my speakers
Quote from: kamikaze33 on September 20, 2011, 10:40:21 PM

it was a pre-built, all i installed was the graphics card. my audio chipset is integrated, speakers work fine on an mp3 and if i hook another set up to the desktop same problem persists. how do i go about finding my motherboard info? i believe the model number is 7th down in the 1st screenshot i posted

Yes, the GG...-ABA is the full model number. The A6109n could be the HP identifier for the MOBO manufacturer's part number. It's likely the manuf. part number is silkscreened on the mobo. Also, you should also be able to identify the sound chip on the motherboard, by looking at it. Here's a pic of it from HP:

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01080282&tmp_task=prodinfoCategory&cc=us&dlc=en&lang=en&lc=en&product=3445431

It's an Asus motherboard.

I can't make out the writing on the sound chip. It's the one next to the audio connectors. Specs say: Realtek ALC888S

The computer I'm on now has onboard Realtek. The driver file readme says:
Driver Package R2.65
Realtek HD Audio Driver support all of Realtek HD Audio Codec .
1. Vista/Windows 7 WHQL Supporting:
ALC882, ALC883, ALC885, ALC886, ALC887, ALC888, ALC889, ALC892, ALC899, ALC861VD, ALC660,
ALC662, ALC663, ALC665, ALC670, ALC672, ALC676, ALC680, ALC221, ALC231, ALC260, ALC262,
ALC267, ALC268, ALC269, ALC270, ALC272, ALC273, ALC275, ALC276
2. Windows 2000/XP WHQL Supporting:
ALC880, ALC882, ALC883, ALC885, ALC886, ALC887, ALC888, ALC889, ALC892, ALC899, ALC861VC,
ALC861VD, ALC660, ALC662, ALC663, ALC665, ALC670, ALC672, ALC676, ALC680 ALC221, ALC231,
ALC260, ALC262, ALC267,ALC268, ALC269, ALC270, ALC272, ALC273, ALC275, ALC276
3. HDMI Device WHQL Support: ATI HDMI Devices
4. OS Supporting: Microsoft Windows XP, Windows 2000, Windows Server 2003, Vista, Windows Server 2008, Windows7 - x86/x64
5. Pack with Microsoft High Definition Audio UAAV1.0a(5013) For Windows 2000 SP4, XP SP1, XP SP2, Server 2003 SP1.

You can get the file here: http://218.210.127.131/downloads/downloadsCheck.aspx?Langid=1&PNid=24&PFid=24&Level=4&Conn=3&DownTypeID=3&GetDown=false#High%20Definition%20Audio%20CodecsQuote from: Computer_Commando on September 25, 2011, 04:05:13 PM

Yes, the GG...-ABA is the full model number. The A6109n could be the HP identifier for the mobo manufacturer's part number. It's likely the manuf. part number is silkscreened on the mobo. Also, you should also be able to identify the sound chip on the motherboard, by looking at it. Here's a pic of it from HP:

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01080282&tmp_task=prodinfoCategory&cc=us&dlc=en&lang=en&lc=en&product=3445431

It's an Asus motherboard.

I can't make out the writing on the sound chip. It's the one next to the audio connectors. Specs say: Realtek ALC888S

The computer I'm on now has onboard Realtek. The driver file readme says:
Driver Package R2.65
Realtek HD Audio Driver support all of Realtek HD Audio Codec .
1. Vista/Windows 7 WHQL Supporting:
ALC882, ALC883, ALC885, ALC886, ALC887, ALC888, ALC889, ALC892, ALC899, ALC861VD, ALC660,
ALC662, ALC663, ALC665, ALC670, ALC672, ALC676, ALC680, ALC221, ALC231, ALC260, ALC262,
ALC267, ALC268, ALC269, ALC270, ALC272, ALC273, ALC275, ALC276
2. Windows 2000/XP WHQL Supporting:
ALC880, ALC882, ALC883, ALC885, ALC886, ALC887, ALC888, ALC889, ALC892, ALC899, ALC861VC,
ALC861VD, ALC660, ALC662, ALC663, ALC665, ALC670, ALC672, ALC676, ALC680 ALC221, ALC231,
ALC260, ALC262, ALC267,ALC268, ALC269, ALC270, ALC272, ALC273, ALC275, ALC276
3. HDMI Device WHQL Support: ATI HDMI Devices
4. OS Supporting: Microsoft Windows XP, Windows 2000, Windows Server 2003, Vista, Windows Server 2008, Windows7 - x86/x64
5. Pack with Microsoft High Definition Audio UAAV1.0a(5013) For Windows 2000 SP4, XP SP1, XP SP2, Server 2003 SP1.

You can get the file here: http://218.210.127.131/downloads/downloadsCheck.aspx?Langid=1&PNid=24&PFid=24&Level=4&Conn=3&DownTypeID=3&GetDown=false#High%20Definition%20Audio%20Codecs

i successfully downloaded/installation completed, but i still have no sound? i still have the 4 hdmi audio devices from before showing up as not connected

Discussion

20696.	Solve : No Start/No Boot (Compaq Presario F756NR Laptop -Windows Vista)?
Answer» While I was trying to uninstall QUICKBOOKS Pro 2008, my COMPUTER froze & would not respond to Ctrl/Alt/Delete or normal shutdown. I did a hard shut down and now the laptop will not come on at all. It's as if there is no power. I have a/c adapter plugged in. The power LIGHT & battery light come on for a mini-second, but then go back off.Seems like a common ISSUE experienced by many Compaq (HP) laptop owners. This site may help you. http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c00372748&tmp_track_link=ot_faqs/top_issues/en_se/c00372748/loc:5&lc=en&dlc=sv&cc=se&product=3646836&lang=sv This ONE explains an issue that causes the type of problem your having. It doesn't sound encouraging. http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/15852/ truenorthTry removing the battery and starting and running it with the battery out.

Discussion

20697.	Solve : Bad Ram Slot???
Answer» So, the other day I was on my computer and it shut off. I tried booting it back up with no success. I have the computer taken apart, and have come to the CONCLUSION that it may be a bad ram slot. The computer works with one stick of ram in the top slot, but if I try anymore than one it won't boot up when it tries to start windows up. Help? RAM slots don't go bad for no reason, i.e. they just don't fail, unless you have DAMAGED them by attempting to insert a module backwards. Try testing the RAM while it's in the top slot only. http://www.memtest.org/Quote from: blakehinton00 on September 29, 2011, 10:30:46 AM The computer works with one stick of ram in the top slot -.-Quote from: blakehinton00 on September 29, 2011, 11:52:23 AM -.- He means while you have the single stick in, run memtest. Then put the other stick in the top slot and run memtest again. Meh, I ran a memory test through the start up diagnostic. It didn't find anything. My computer is now running with RAM in the top and bottom slot. Quote from: blakehinton00 on September 29, 2011, 12:21:15 PM Meh, I ran a memory test through the start up diagnostic. It didn't find anything. My computer is now running with RAM in the top and bottom slot. So all good now? Maybe the stick was in wrong ... or they didnt like which way ROUND they were. RAM confuses me... :LHaha, nah they are in right. It's running, but slowly. It will only operate with 2 out of the 4 sticks of ram. :/Quote from: blakehinton00 on September 29, 2011, 01:09:00 PM Haha, nah they are in right. It's running, but slowly. It will only operate with 2 out of the 4 sticks of ram. :/ Swap the two sticks

20697.

Solve : Bad Ram Slot???

Answer»

So, the other day I was on my computer and it shut off. I tried booting it back up with no success. I have the computer taken apart, and have come to the CONCLUSION that it may be a bad ram slot. The computer works with one stick of ram in the top slot, but if I try anymore than one it won't boot up when it tries to start windows up. Help? RAM slots don't go bad for no reason, i.e. they just don't fail, unless you have DAMAGED them by attempting to insert a module backwards. Try testing the RAM while it's in the top slot only. http://www.memtest.org/Quote from: blakehinton00 on September 29, 2011, 10:30:46 AM

The computer works with one stick of ram in the top slot

-.-Quote from: blakehinton00 on September 29, 2011, 11:52:23 AM

-.-

He means while you have the single stick in, run memtest. Then put the other stick in the top slot and run memtest again.

Meh, I ran a memory test through the start up diagnostic. It didn't find anything. My computer is now running with RAM in the top and bottom slot. Quote from: blakehinton00 on September 29, 2011, 12:21:15 PM

Meh, I ran a memory test through the start up diagnostic. It didn't find anything. My computer is now running with RAM in the top and bottom slot.

So all good now? Maybe the stick was in wrong ... or they didnt like which way ROUND they were.
RAM confuses me... :LHaha, nah they are in right. It's running, but slowly. It will only operate with 2 out of the 4 sticks of ram. :/Quote from: blakehinton00 on September 29, 2011, 01:09:00 PM

Haha, nah they are in right. It's running, but slowly. It will only operate with 2 out of the 4 sticks of ram. :/

Swap the two sticks

Discussion

20698.	Solve : Brother mfc 9870 Error code??
Answer» my friend is working on a BROTHER mfc 9870 and its GIVING "machine error 76" whats all that about then?http://www.fixya.com/support/t612271-machine_error_76_brother Good-luck,truenorth

Discussion

20699.	Solve : Brother Printer problems?
Answer» I have a BROTHER MFC 4800 laser. Lately, instead of printing a full page, the page is compressed and prints on the top left CORNER of the page. I have uninstalled the PRINTER, but I suspect it is not being fully un-installed. I have searched on line for a solution, and tried re-installing the Brother software from the disc - but I get an error message. Arrrgh, help please.You have been very PATIENT awaiting some ASSISTANCE. I have no experience with laser printers. However here is a link to a Brother site that may help you with your driver issue (if that is the cause).You need to scroll down until you see "multifunction laser printers" and your model is listed. good-luck,truenorth http://www.brother.com/E-ftp/windowsxp/us.html

Discussion

20700.	Solve : Weird Sound Problem...?
Answer» Okay before my speakers were working normally. Then all of a sudden they just stop working. When the HEADPHONES are not plugged in there is no sound COMING from the laptop speakers but, it says there are. But, when i plug in the headphones u can hear sound coming through the headphones. I have no idea what the problem is. I ASKED a friend of MINE and he said its a known motherboard problem but, I can't really find anything on it. Can someone here please help me? Thank you, regardsIt COULD be a cable that's loose or a setting that was changedYou might could try just making sure your sound drivers are up to date as well.

Discussion

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