Explore topic-wise InterviewSolutions in .

I have 2 Acer Aspire One netbooks, running Windows XP, Service Pack 3. AVG Free VIRUS protection.
1.6 GHz, Intel Atom CHIP. 0.98 GB. I have been able to link both of these Acers tol different secure wireless networks through Cbeyond and ATT & T. I can also connect to any unsecured network I try. However, neither of the Acers is able to use Comcast at my house or at a friend's house. (Yes, I KNOW the passwords). These Acers show an active connection in the icon in the lower right-hand tray, but they cannot find a server, regardless of whether I use Mozilla or Explorer. I have been able to use several other brands of laptop with these same Comcast home networks. So the problem is associated with the Acer-Comcast matchup. I assume it is a modem, router, or NIC problem. The modem is Actiontec and the router is Netgear (at my house, where I am now. I do not know the modem or router at my friend's house). The network adapters are Aetheros (wireless) and Realtek (wired). I cannot connect the Acer through the wall either. I apologize if this is actually a software rather than a hardware problem.As for Cbeyond, I have nothing to say.

ATT and Comcast have different setups. I recall that you have to do the setup over again when you switch from one to the other. Maybe I am wrong about that.

The routers used by ATT are different from the on es used by Comcast. Not just the speed and protocol, but the way they verify your account. You need to contact the Comcast support and find out what you are doing wrong.

Is there a reason you need to switch back and forth? If so, you should set it up so the local router does the work, not the laptop.

With Comcast thee is an issue of people trying to 'boot leg' service off of a Comcast cable by splicing into it and using a OUTER not known to the Comcast server. Of course, that is not what you want, -right?

Comcast has documentation that explains how visitors to a subscriber home can log on to a LAN wireless and get into the Comcast internet. service.

It is against the terms of use for a subscriber to 'broadcast' his Comcast connection to the entire neighborhood using WI-Fi. Unless you have a contract for that.Try Winsock reset/fix http://windowsxp.mvps.org/winsock.htmQuote from: reeder2 on January 13, 2012, 01:28:09 PM

... I cannot connect the Acer through the wall either....

Processor Intel® Core™ i3-330M Processor (2.13Ghz, 4 Threads, 3M cache), Memory 3GB (1 X 1GB + 1 X 2GB) 2 DIMM DDR3 1333Mhz, Intel® HD Graphics (India) OR
Processor Core2 DUO T6600, Processor Speed (MHz)2200, Processor Cache Memory (KB) 2048, Front Side Bus (Mhz) 800, Standard RAM (MB) 4096, Video Card GeForce 8200M G, Digital MEDIA Reader 4 in 1 , which one better and at least good for multimedia, web development ? From the specs given, the first is a better laptop all around, bar having 1GB less RAM.Correct me if I'm wrong. 1st one has integrated graphics while second one has a dedicated graphics card? How important is a dedicated graphics card in a laptop? Might help performance?The integrated graphics on the Core i3 chip are superior to the (also integrated) Geforce 8200 graphics on the second, the first laptop also has a much better CPU and more modern (read: more easily upgradeable) and faster (not that it makes a difference) RAM. A real dedicated card would help gaming performance, true, but NEITHER of those laptops is capable of more than casual gaming.

I wish to add a hard drive to each desktop computer so I have back-up or mirror capabilities on each computer. Wouldn’t mind currently my two desktops have only one HD each. We’ve outgrown our external HD Backup.
My most basic question is: Can I mix and MATCH HD manufacturers? Computer 1 has an ASUS P5N-E SLI MB and has RAID capability (software is loaded). It is custom built, not a branded desktop (32 bit with Windows XP Pro). It currently has a WD SCSI 160 GB drive. Computer 2 is a Velocity branded machine (64 bit with Windows 7) with an Intel DX580 MB and a Hitachi 500 GB HD.
In an ideal world (which I can do) I’d like to just get 4 drives (WD Caviar Green 1T) and throw those in the two machines this summer. Then I’d know the configs. for each w/o any cross learning. But I don’t want to be a jerk just THROWING away good money. I have looked for the pair for each drive and wind up only being dumped into new drives to buy. So I’m confused as to how to get the same drives for each computer. I was looking at Amazon and my head gets spinning with the choices. Thanks for help!
Any HDD will work...
Mixing and matching brands should be no problem at all.
The machine doesn't CARE what make the drives are...Patio, so it just comes down to MB connections for the SATA drive, right? And the drives don't need same manf. specs to work in RAID?
Thanks for the good news.I missed the RAID connotation....for RAID it is always best both drives are the same size...IDEALLY also the same brand.
Sorry for the misunderstanding.Got it, thanks for the clarification.RAID-1 (Mirror), I assume?Yes, that'd be the choice. Going to use JD MIcron's software.

Quote from: Redsennacy2189 on January 09, 2012, 06:31:02 PM

I could have sworn that i had to update bios once, but I might be thinking of a completely different computer. I just checked myself, pretend like I said nothing. working on resetting it.

ah, it was this computer. In the manual, C1E is a default setting, and it is enabled anyway. Asus has a BIOS update they recommend from their website.

should i load defaults, or hard reset via battery or jumper?

^^ scratch all that. just read your post. it won't go back to true default since i upgraded?

Hm. well then, I flashed both computers. Asus recommends it in the manual, so that's what I followed. Didn't save the default BIOS though. Bad me.

Should I still try to reset it? I'm not sure what else I can do. If it keeps blue screening, I might just have to find a new mobo since my gut tells me that's the problem.

• Clean connectors with alcohol
• Diagnose your RAM (http://www.memtest.org/)
• Boot with only the bare essentials (PSU/RAM/CPU)
• Try another videocard
• Make certain the mainboard isn't short-circuiting anywhere (loose screws, bent metal strips)

50-60 depending on if I'm playing wow vs skyrim.

Hi Raptor

Is there a problem with my advice? , if so then please explain what the problem is. It serves no one a comment LIKE Quote from: Raptor on January 27, 2012, 03:05:16 AM

Are you the same "Girls can do anything" poster? I forgot her name but judging from the advice you're handing out, it's you.

Hi Raptor

Is there a problem with my advice? , if so then please explain what the problem is. It serves no one a comment like

Regards
Lisa

Every time I boot up my computer and I turn on my LCD monitor, I get a white BLANK screen. Sometimes the white screen has blotches of stripe lines, and if I LEAVE the monitor on for a couple of SECONDS the lines slowly fade to a pure white screen. The only way I can get my monitor to work is if I keep pressing the ON and OFF button on the monitor. This TAKES a long time, and is like playing Russian ROULETTE to get out of the white screen. Anyone know what the problem is and or a fix, thanks. Please clarify something - is the display powered on before or after you boot the system?I believe it's on beforeOkay, well it should be - so please make sure it is.

Let's rule out a bad display - I suggest you try a different display with the system and / or this display on a different system to see what happens.

I was GIVEN a SCSI CD Disk Drive, basically, it reads a large floppy like CD thats 3.5 roughtly. Thing is that I was given it to get MUSIC off a bunch of these disks. However, it comes back that the DATA is curppted or something at times. When I tried it with the other one it had no trouble what so ever. I wondered if these didnt use a laser to read the disks that needs cleaned.Try the discs in a regular CD/DVD drive...SCSI is just the interface...
All optical drives use lasers.patio, as I mentioned there like a floppy. Its basically, a dual layered disk one side an anotherQuote from: Ryuk on January 07, 2012, 05:29:23 PM

patio, as I mentioned there like a floppy. Its basically, a dual layered disk one side an another

My wife's computer has trouble starting...when you push the power button the power light comes on , the CD drive light comes on , and it sits there and does nothing until it restarts and does the same thing again and again until it finally starts up. You can hear the fan in the power supply start but the hard drive light does not come on until it is finally ready to start up. This can take as long as 15-20 minutes. The only change's I have made since it started playing up were to uncheck the restart on all error's box and the boot device priority in the BIOS( it had been set to CD drive as first and I changed it to the hard drive.) The computer has not been moved or had any power surges that I know of....it sit's right beside my own computer and runs off the same power source. Once it finally starts up it runs fin and has no problems. It doesn't do it on every start up either.....My first thought was that it is the power supply....Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks...Dave.I don't have any experience with laptop diagnostic CARDS, but that would be my first recommendation if it were a desktop. Someone that knows of such a useful device for laptops can chime in hopefully.

Has the laptop had signs of strange behavior prior to this? Could be overheating, write error problems, any hiccups at all worth mentioning.

My approach is more of a shotgun method since not all symptoms are reported and not all symptoms reported lead to linear and logical solution paths. Stop at any point when you found the error causing the holdup. So to start, check the voltage of the power adapter using a multimeter and make sure it is very close to the specs written on the adapter. I would get a copy of Ubuntu and run the memtest86+ that it comes with. Let that make 5 full passes to see if the RAM clears testing. Get a copy of Drive Fitness Test and perform an analysis of your hard drive. Then use the Ubuntu disk and fire up the "Live CD" feature to see if the OS loads. Look for errors that may post during bootup that could lead to helpful troubleshooting info. If Ubuntu loads successfully then the problem is probably with the LOADED OS on the hard drive. In that case then I would suspect malware or a corrupt driver. Most likely it is malware in the case the OS is at fault.Quote from: Sn3akyP3t3 on April 11, 2010, 11:27:23 PM

I don't have any experience with laptop diagnostic cards, but that would be my first recommendation if it were a desktop. Someone that knows of such a useful device for laptops can chime in hopefully.

Has the laptop had signs of strange behavior prior to this? Could be overheating, write error problems, any hiccups at all worth mentioning.

My approach is more of a shotgun method since not all symptoms are reported and not all symptoms reported lead to linear and logical solution paths. Stop at any point when you found the error causing the holdup. So to start, check the voltage of the power adapter using a multimeter and make sure it is very close to the specs written on the adapter. I would get a copy of Ubuntu and run the memtest86+ that it comes with. Let that make 5 full passes to see if the RAM clears testing. Get a copy of Drive Fitness Test and perform an analysis of your hard drive. Then use the Ubuntu disk and fire up the "Live CD" feature to see if the OS loads. Look for errors that may post during bootup that could lead to helpful troubleshooting info. If Ubuntu loads successfully then the problem is probably with the loaded OS on the hard drive. In that case then I would suspect malware or a corrupt driver. Most likely it is malware in the case the OS is at fault.

Sn3akyP3t3, Where did you get the idea this was a laptop? Laptop power supplies generally dont have fans in them so I would say this is a desktop.

IS IT POSSIBLE TO SHORT OUT THE MOTHERBOARD IF YOU DID NOT :-\SCREW IN THE NETWORK CARD ON A DESKTOP. IS THIS A COMMAN OCCURACE. ALSO DOESN'T THE NETWORK CARD SNAP INTO THE MOTHERBOARD. THIS SEEM UNLIKELY TO ME. I THINK SOMEONE IS JUST TRYING TO GET ME TO BUY A NEW MOTHERBOARD.
THIS IS ON A DESKTOP WITH WINDOWS 7. LESS THAN A MONTH OLD
Sure looks like your caps lock key is defective.

1) Why don't you just tell us what the exact problem is that you are having?
2) Please do not post in all caps - it is considered the equivalent of YELLING on a forum.Those screws are provided for a reason, to stop cards getting loose in their slots or coming out altogether. If this happened when the system was powered up, I can easily imagine that catastrophic damage might occur. An clumsy insertion of a network cable could make the card RISE up in its slot and cause intermittent contact or even partial disconnection. I also can imagine a motherboard maker or reseller declining a warranty claim in such a case.
Quote

2) Please do not post in all caps - it is considered the equivalent of YELLING on a forum.

WHY ARE YOU UPSET > AND WHAT THE PROBLEM IS THE USE OF THESE CAPITAL LETTERS

It's back again

Do you think it is reasonable for this guy to charge me 80- 120 to replace the motherboard.

Because I was the one who put the network card in.

But it was fine for 3 weeks and then one morning it just would not start up. I did not move the computer or anything.

So I am still kinda questioning this persons intent.

Thanks again and I am sorry one more time.

A client of mine wants to have a system where he can demonstrate to a customer what their end-product will looks like.

I'm not entirely sure about the specifics of that yet but I am now looking for a system that will allow me to project onto a second screen what the operator wants to be projected. (as opposed as to just replicating the first monitor or expanding it.)

Any suggestions to help me find what I'm looking for? Would a dual-display not work? You could drag the image/video to the second screen...Quote from: kpac on January 14, 2012, 10:55:32 AM

Would a dual-display not work? You could drag the image/video to the second screen...

So your concern is that the "source" can contain information that you do not want to make available to the audience. I can see that being an issue. So why not create a display from whatever the source is and before making it a display for the intended audience remove the part(s) that you don't want included.

The problem is that it will be operated by people who aren't very knowledgable about these things or computers in general and I want to prevent them from moving things onto the screen that the customer isn't supposed to see.

I am planning on building a gaming PC with a budget of around $900 Australian dollars and this is the list of components I have come up with.

Graphics card: $225.15

Leadtek WinFast GTX 560 Ti 1GB GDDR5
_______________________________________ ___
Case: $52.50

Xigmatek Asgard II
_______________________________________ ___
Power supply unit: $85

OCZ ModXStream Pro 600W Modular High Performance Power Supply
_______________________________________ ___
Motherboard: $115.80

MSI P67A-GD55 (B3)
_______________________________________ ___
Processor: $212

Intel Core i5-2500K
_______________________________________ ___
Hard DRIVE: $90

Western Digital Caviar Blue WD5000AAKX 500GB
_______________________________________ ___
Optical drive: $20

LG GH22NS50 DVD Burner
_______________________________________ ___
Network card: $13

TP-Link TL-WN350GD 54M Wireless
_______________________________________ ___
Memory: $37.70

G.Skill F3-12800CL9D-4GBRL 4GB (2x 2GB)

I Have done quite a bit of research on these components but would like to clarify a few questions.
Are all of these components completely compatible with each other?
Will all of the components fit into the case?
Am I getting the best price and value for all of the components?
Do you have any suggestions to change a component?

Thanks, JamesHere is a very old opinionated reply. Nobody needs a modular power supply, they don't work any better than the other kind. And 600 watts is okay, in fact it's more than what you really need. But it's a good investment.

The really big question is why you're spending so much money on a graphics card. This is your first home-brew computer. Graphics cards can drive you crazy. Get the Graphics card later. Many motherboards today have video chips incorporated into the motherboards. Most of these do not work or feel great, but do not do any harm either. In my opinion. Same for the network card. They now come with network card's built-in. Get a good, but not overpriced motherboard.

The most important choice you make is which CPU you to buy. In theory you can always upgrade your CPU, but in practice is very expensive to buy a new CPU and possibly a new heat sink. So put the money on the CPU and the heat sink. They might last longer than the motherboard.

About the case. Just get a standard case. Unless you are short on space under your desk. Standard cases are easier to work with.

Like I said, this is opinion more that fact.
I love my modular power supply! It's high quality and I get to remove excess CABLE.

I'd ditch the MSI motherboard. Go Asus or Gigabyte.I'd also consider how the GPU/CPU is going to work in conjunction with your motherboard chipset.

4GB seems a little weak... I just built one for around 900 USD and it has 16GB of DDR3 1600.

I rather enjoy modular power supplies. Less cable mess = win.Nice selection, the CPU is about as powerful as you're going to get for the money you could use an AMD FX-8150 for little more go for $22 more but that's without mobo research. RAM memory size is a bit on the small side though, standard gaming config is 6GB now a days although many will argue the actual benefits of this. RAM though is one of those things that you can afford to leave until a later date, it always goes down in price. They called me mad for using 4GB of RAM in my machine but now who's laughing?

Well... Nice excluding the case, I just don't like the look of Xigmatec's stuff. Too bland.

When RAM memory went down to a pound [GBP] per megabite... It was a celebrated event... No one celebrated when it went below a penny.True, and not to knock your choice of MB (I have a very nice MSI LAPTOP), but you could also look at ASRock as an alternative. They are a subsidary of ASUS and produce fair quality parts.Sorry for the late reply, I went on a little holiday. What about this motherboard, would it be better than the MSI one?
http://www.mwave.com.au/sku-28023553-ASRock_Z68_Pro3_M_Motherboard_Intel_LGA1155_Intel_Z68_Chipset_4x_DDR3_2133_1x_PC

Is there such a thing as keyboards and mice that don't make any noise when you press the buttons?
I'm staying up late at night on the computer, trying to avoid detection. Trouble is, the computer is right outside the bedroom so the person can hear me typing and clicking, EVEN with the door CLOSED. I NEED "stealthy" computer equipment.
You have keyboards made mostly out of silicone and Logitech's Trackman is rather quiet as you don't shove it around the mousepad but use your thumb to control the ball.I don't want to get a ball MOUSE, though. Those aren't very good for games. Besides, the real problem is how loud the clicking noise is.Turn up the stereo...Quote from: Wuai Bel Ree on January 14, 2012, 06:12:48 PM

I don't want to get a ball mouse, though. Those aren't very good for games. Besides, the real problem is how loud the clicking noise is.

I've recently decided to get a much bigger hard drive, perhaps 500 Gig. It will be a huge step up from the 40 Gig I have now. However, this will be the first upgrade in several years and I was wondering if the computer can handle this without needing to upgrade something else as well.
I am comfortable with my computer as is. I don't want to upgrade the OS, it's finally working the WAY I like it.
I was hoping someone could suggest a drive, given the info I supply. If you need more, please ask and I will do my best to get it. Thanks kindly.


Mind Computer Products
Intel Celeron 1.80GHz
2 GB Ram
WinXP Home / SP2
Mainboard ECS P4VMM2
S3 Graphics ProSavageDDR
Vinyl AC'97 Audio
AVG free, Spybot, Ad-aware, SUPERAntiSpyware
CCleaner, HyJackthis, Malwarebytes' Anti-MalwareThe new hard WARE perhaps 500 Gig. It will be a huge step up from the 40 Gig I have now. However, this will be the first upgrade in several years and I was wondering if the computer can handle this without needing to upgrade something else as well.
I am comfortable with my computer as is. I don't want to upgrade the OS, it's finally working the way I like it.Thanks for giving information in right.Quote from: frankken2 on May 20, 2010, 05:01:10 AM

The new hard ware perhaps 500 Gig. It will be a huge step up from the 40 Gig I have now. However, this will be the first upgrade in several years and I was wondering if the computer can handle this without needing to upgrade something else as well.
I am comfortable with my computer as is. I don't want to upgrade the OS, it's finally working the way I like it.Thanks for giving information in right.

...If I may ask another question, in the description, they used the term "Bare Drive". Could someone explain this?

Till the new drive arrives, I'm going to try mustering the courage to install it and do a clone copy of the OS. Deepest I've gone into this computer stuff. Might have to talk to you guys before I start that.

If you get a Western Digital drive, go to http://support.wdc.com/product/downloaddetail.asp?swid=119&wdc_lang=en and download Acronis True Image WD Edition Software. You can use it to clone your old drive to the new.

Comes Free with Seagate HDD's as well....

Till the new drive arrives, I'm going to try mustering the courage to install it and do a clone copy of the OS. Deepest I've gone into this computer stuff. Might have to talk to you guys before I start that.

Thanks for the info guys. I assume this drive at least has the master/slave jumpers...or do I need them as well. I have mini jumpers for the motherboard. As for the mounting screws, anyone know the actual size, ie., #6-32? Machine screws and I, have an understanding...they disappear and I never find them.

Can I use a 775 cpu cooler on a LGA 1155 ASUS|SABERTOOTH P67 (REV 3.0) R motherboard?Only if the manufacturer says it's compatible or you have a CONVERSION kit.They USUALLY are, but always MAKE sure, what cooler are you getting?

Okay so one day i was using my pc then suddenly the monitor turns blank. I DIDNT do anything it turns blank. The weird part is that i can still see the outline of shapes its like the screen is really faded. And as for my laptop the screen is COLORFUL. Everytime i open itthe screen will be filled with lines moving VERTICALLY. What can i do to fix this PROBLEM. Can i fix it by myself ??Install the latest drivers?Hi salty.lover4

The desktop monitor could have a failed back light which would need to be fixed by a technician.

The laptop could be 1 of several things depending ion the make and model and how the lines are on the display. One thing you could try is connecting a going desktop monitor to the VGA port on the laptop if it has the same pattern of lines, then it is a problem in the VGA circuit of the laptop, if not then it is a fault in the laptop display. How to fix would depend on the model and make.

I have got everything for my pc rig except for the CPU, but I was thinking about waiting for the IvyBridge to come out. When does it come out, will it be better and how and will it cost the same as the Sandy Bridge generation. Thank in advance.

-InkinYour existing motherboard may not SUPPORT the Ivy Bridge.I know it MIGHT not support it, I can put it ASIDE or sell it to buy a motherboard with a socket that will fit the Ivy Bridge, what about my other questions?What about it ? ?
If you wait then your buying a new board and a new CPU...
If you buy now you are buying only what you need...

The decision is ultimately up to you.
If your expecting earth shattering PERFORMANCE gains between the 2 choices i woulfn't...My other questions.Call inTel ...and ask what they plan on charging for it...

I'm just asking this to SEE if I understand and in my own words. I can store music on DVD's but only as data. Just for storage in case something happens to my computer and DVD's seem convenient to me because I can put alot of music on each and then later on use my computer to retrieve the data (music) and MAKE CD's or put on my mp3 player. I am not sure what you mean by "only as data". Data is the only thing you can store on a disk. You can store mp3s on a recordable DVD. Clearly with 4.7 GB of space you can get a lot on a disk, and if your DVD drive supports DL (Dual Layer) disks then that figure is nearly doubled to 8.5 GB. This is useful for storage and in fact you can use such a disk in many home DVD players these days. I have a fairly cheap Toshiba DVD player (it cost around 40 UK pounds, a bit less than 60 US dollars) it has RCA stereo sockets for hooking up to a hifi and optical output and it will PLAY mp3s off a DVD burned as a DVD-ROM disk. You get an onscreen menu and you can set up a play list, which is great for parties or for using like a juke box. I organise them into folders by albums. You have to use a burning app like Nero to do this, I don't mean the Windows drag and drop method.

Did that answer your question?
Yea.

Basically, my question was how can I backup my data. I keep thinking music and movies are just that when, as you say and everyone KNOWS, they are data. ...and I keep thinking that I can put music on my Ipod when everythings data. Quote from: Doug on May 22, 2010, 02:35:39 PM

Basically, my question was how can I backup my data.

Hi everyone,
I want to know whether all laptops use the same KIND of Hard DISKS? I am using a Dell Latitude D410 which is 12'' WIDE. I want to upgrade to a huge HDD. Would my machine use the same HD that a 17'' wide laptop may use? Thanks.

Essentially the only commonality that can be stated as universal is the physical size of the HDD which is 2.5 inches versus 3.5 inches for desktops. Depending on the vintage of the computer (both laptops and desktops) will use different types of HDD such as ide or sata. As well again depending on age of the computer there can be a limitation as to the size (amount of available memory) that a computer will recognize as available regardless of how much the ACTUAL HDD has. This is not as much a factor with today's current computers.In the sense of your question where my interpretation of "huge " as you imply is amount of memory on the HDD. In which case the is really not a valid comparison as some desktops may have less than some laptops and vice-versa . In your specif example where the different parameter is the screen size that could be the same as between desktops and laptops. In an area of dimension which i am not knowledgeable enough to be certain is that perhaps as the memory amounts get toward the upper end of the possibilities perhaps the drive may get thicker and therefore MIGHT pose a problem re available space in your case.Other members may wish to comment for you on that.truenorth

I have two Samsung Syncmaster B2330H's, use Windows 7 on a Gateway DX4850, [emailprotected] w/ 8 GB RAM, NVIDIA GeForce GT 420 graphics card. I am just converting from film cameras to digital cameras and digital processing thru Lightroom and CS5. I do not have any experience dealing with making sure the color on my screens will be close to what returns from the print labs. I am afraid that the color in my photos my be badly off. The screens look a bit green and I can't seem to get rid of it. I have read that there may be a color BALANCE issue with these monitors. I have played around with the NVIDIA control panel, the display calibration CONTROLS(it say it uses a wide gamut color profile...not helpful) and even adjusted the gamma levels with "Quick Gamma." Should I be messing with the WCS and ICC Profiles? How can I test the color balance? I don't want to edit photos only to find out that the edits way off and have the prints return from the lab "off color" and then have to try to adjust color balance on the monitors to match the labs. I can't even set the color temperature! Somebody help me!I think Samsung monitors have a pretty good colour scheme going right out of the box. Don't change the colour schemes of your videocard unless you have a very good reason to and know what you're doing.

You might want to take a look at the preset profiles on the monitor itself. I swap between those all the time and you can easily go back to "Custom" which is the only profile you can alter.
Thanks Raptor. I have "MESSED with" the color scheme and the schemes on the videocard. My only good reason is that, to my eye, the colors were greenish out of the box. I have read reviews on this monitor and several comments have indicated that most felt that this particular model of Samsung has an "out of the box" color problem. It has been described as needing "major color adjustments." I guess for me the crux of this situation is that the color balance not only needs to look correct to me but match up reasonably well with a print labs. I am aware that there are products to correct gamma levels but I am unaware of any product that can help with color balance. These monitors do not seem to have very many color balance adjustments. I wonder if someone has CREATED "profiles" for the color and gamma balances that could be used as a guide to correct the color problems. Better yet, I wonder if there is anyone who also uses their Samsungs for photographic editing and has information about these problems as they pertain specifically to photography? There's a device for that, some kind of spider-like device that you clamp onto your monitor.

I think this is it: http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/spyder2pro.html

Never used it, just saw it lying around a client's computer. Must say it looked better out of the box but that's probably PEBKAC.
I do some webdesign and GIMP'ing but no printed works.Thanks again Raptor!! This is the direction I need to be looking in. Curious to know how it'll work out for you if you decide to buy one of those devices.I will update as this progresses. The more I read about color management in monitors, printers, editing software, operating systems and cameras the more I realize the need to understand the total scope of color management. Total color management cannot be addressed with just one approach. I have some studying to do!

My pc is custom built. OS is windows 7 ultimate.Asrock mother board A770DE+. Chipset-AMD rd770.Processor-Amd sempron [emailprotected] is 2048 mb.Bios-american megatrends inc. Version P1.70 I recently added 1 more stick of ram.My problem is-The computer will only boot up if the dip switch is set at position 2-3 (clear cmos). I TRIED to clear the settings by removing the battery,repositioning the dip switch to NormalPosition (1-2). When I do this the system will not boot. I have read all of the Info. that I can find on this site but haven't seen my problem. The PC seems to run fine, even though I believe the dip switch setting is incorrect. Can someone help me out? Thank You PS. The bios screen seems to be set OK. Loaded defaultsWrong RAM...or mis-matched...
Check the online scanner at Crucial.comThank you for responding to my problem. One stick is DDR PC2-5300 the other is DDR PC2-6400. I didn't know if it mattered. Both sticks are compatable with this PC. I will remove one stick, and reboot. Thanks again!I removed i stick of memory,and tried to boot. could not boot in normal position. I tried the other stick of memory , tried to boot- will not with switch in normsl position(1-2). I removed the battery each time for a while but the computer refuses to boot with the dip switch set to normal. The computer will boot with either stick of memory or both sticks of memory when the dip switch is set at position (2-3) clear cmos. I am having no issues during use or at boot.No error messages. Does any one have an idea ? Are you certain that is the clear CMOS setting? CLRCMOS1 ALLOWS you to clear the data in CMOS. The data in CMOS includes
system setup information such as system password, DATE, time, and system
setup parameters. To clear and reset the system parameters to default setup,
please turn off the computer and unplug the power cord from the power
supply. After waiting for 15 seconds, use a jumper cap to short pin2 and pin3
on CLRCMOS1 for 5 seconds. However, please do not clear the CMOS right
after you update the BIOS. If you need to clear the CMOS when you just finish
updating the BIOS, you must boot up the system FIRST, and then shut it down
before you do the clear-CMOS action.
ftp://174.142.97.10/manual/A770DE+.pdfThanks.-I went to ASrocks support site and got the manual. It is the cmos reset switch.Setting at normal,(covering pins 1 and2) the computer will not boot.Thanks all! Today I revisited the instructions about resetting cmos. where it SAYS (clrcmos1), I mistakenly thought that the (1) after clrcmos1 refered to pin 1. It is not. That would be pin 3. I refered back to the picture in the manual. My mistake!! I was worried about nothing. Thanks Raptor! I went back and looked at the diagram. Where it says CLRCMOS1, I thought the 1 was refering to pin #1. It is not,that would be pin#3 My stupid mistake.Thankfully I didn't damage anything. I will pay a little more attention to diagrams from now on.No problem, come back any time.Diagram on p.10 is pretty good, all pin1's are noted.
ftp://
174.142.97.10/manual/A770DE+.pdf

I was just playing the Kingdoms of amalur demo when I crashed to desktop and got a message saying that suddenly, without warning, my larger, storage only drive had gone bad, and that I needed to backup my files and system data. I tried to do just that, but in every drive combination I tried I was unable to backup. So, I rolled the dice and reset.

Suddenly, I was unable to boot up at all, literally nothing past the BIOS. The BIOS claims my system drive is STILL detected while my storage drive in now off the GRID. I've tried the nuclear option of reformatting and installing a fresh Win7 with my disc, but that claims that I cannot install to my drive. I've tried physically unplugging the SATA cables in every combination and that does nothing either. I'm literally stuck in BIOS, only able to go to windows disc install and then hit the brick wall on every option combination there.

So, the basic question is this: is it possible that both my HDDs, purchased and installed at different times, both bricked in the same instant? Should I just go it a new one like the HDD recovery instructions said before I hit reset? The windows error message was literally a "contact the manufacturer or install a new HDD" With two drive, neither able to take a windows reformatted install, I don't see many other options.

Any spitball opinions you guys got before I go spend money on a new drive? and on that note, what kind of recovery options would you recommend for my bricked drives if that even possible. I'd like to get my photos back if I could, but I've pretty much made my peace with them being gone forever.Could be a bad power supply unit.

The strange warning sounds more like a virus, though. When and how did you get this message and what operating system are you running?

You should check the health of the drives using either the manufacturer's software or the Disk Utility on the Ubuntu Live CD.It even stranger now, as now I can boot it up if I hit F1 at the hardware startup and skip a CHKDSK (CHKDSK freezes at 59% for hours).

I can get to my desktop and it detects the HDD that the BIOS doesn't even detect and and even run programs and games installed to the "bad" drive, though windows still chimes in saying that HDD is about to fail.

After some time, or when I try to move files over from the secondary drive to the primary, it'll disappear from the basic "computer/My Computer" window and close down windows explorer, making me reboot, but as long as I skip the CHKDSK, I can get it back for a time.

I am starting to believe the virus theory, especially since I've just got microsoft security essentials as my anti-virus and for some reason can't turn windows defender on. i usually give my computer a weekly scam with that, supplemented by spybot S&D.

Just as a bit of extra info, if it matters, I'm in Bangkok, Thailand and the power grid here has been really surging a lot here lately with 2 second long blackouts two or three times a day. I have surge protectors with isolated fuses, but I know there is no 100% protection on that.

I've only got free antivirus as an option, as my Thai bank account doesn't offer online purchases. If that is the situation, are there ant free antvirus you might recommend?

BTW, I'm on Win7 and now that I've got my desktop back, here is my dxdiag of my specs:
------------------
System Information
------------------
Time of this report: 1/27/2012, 21:53:47
Machine name: KILGORETROUT
Operating System: Windows 7 Ultimate 32-bit (6.1, Build 7601) Service Pack 1 (7601.win7sp1_gdr.111025-1505)
Language: English (Regional SETTING: English)
System Manufacturer: System manufacturer
System Model: System Product Name
BIOS: BIOS Date: 02/23/09 21:14:18 VER: 08.00.14
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Duo CPU E8500 @ 3.16GHz (2 CPUs), ~3.2GHz
Memory: 4096MB RAM
Available OS Memory: 3328MB RAM
Page File: 1261MB used, 5390MB available
Windows Dir: C:\Windows
DirectX Version: DirectX 11
DX Setup Parameters: None
User DPI Setting: Using System DPI
System DPI Setting: 96 DPI (100 percent)
DWM DPI Scaling: Disabled
DxDiag Version: 6.01.7601.17514 32bit Unicode

------------
DxDiag Notes
------------
Display Tab 1: No problems found.
Sound Tab 1: No problems found.
Sound Tab 2: No problems found.
Sound Tab 3: No problems found.
Input Tab: No problems found.

--------------------
DirectX Debug Levels
--------------------
Direct3D: 0/4 (retail)
DirectDraw: 0/4 (retail)
DirectInput: 0/5 (retail)
DirectMusic: 0/5 (retail)
DirectPlay: 0/9 (retail)
DirectSound: 0/5 (retail)
DirectShow: 0/6 (retail)

---------------
Display Devices
---------------
Card name: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 260
Manufacturer: NVIDIA
Chip type: GeForce GTX 260
DAC type: Integrated RAMDAC
Device Key: Enum\PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_05E2&SUBSYS_00000000&REV_A1
Display Memory: 2286 MB
DEDICATED Memory: 879 MB
Shared Memory: 1407 MB
Current Mode: 1920 x 1080 (32 bit) (59Hz)
Monitor Name: Generic PnP Monitor
Monitor Model: Acer G235H
Monitor Id: ACR0113
Native Mode: 1920 x 1080(p) (60.000Hz)
Output Type: DVI
Driver Name: nvd3dum.dll,nvwgf2um.dll,nvwgf2um.dll
Driver File Version: 8.17.0012.8562 (English)
Driver Version: 8.17.12.8562
DDI Version: 10
Driver Model: WDDM 1.1
Driver Attributes: Final Retail
Driver Date/Size: 10/15/2011 15:53:00, 13205312 bytes
WHQL Logo'd: Yes
WHQL Date Stamp:
Device Identifier: {D7B71E3E-46A2-11CF-C242-0C201FC2C535}
Vendor ID: 0x10DE
Device ID: 0x05E2
SubSys ID: 0x00000000
Revision ID: 0x00A1
Driver Strong Name: oem18.inf:NVIDIA_SetA_Devices.NTx86.6.1:Section005:8.17.12.8562:pci\ven_10de&dev_05e2
Rank Of Driver: 00E60003
Video Accel: ModeMPEG2_A ModeMPEG2_C ModeVC1_C ModeWMV9_C
Deinterlace Caps: {6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive
{F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY
{5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
{6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(UYVY,UYVY) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive
{F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(UYVY,UYVY) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY
{5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(UYVY,UYVY) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(UYVY,UYVY) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
{6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(YV12,0x32315659) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive
{F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(YV12,0x32315659) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY
{5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(YV12,0x32315659) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(YV12,0x32315659) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
{6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive
{F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY
{5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
{6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC1,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC1,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC1,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC1,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC2,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC2,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC2,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC2,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC3,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC3,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC3,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC3,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC4,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC4,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC4,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC4,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(S340,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(S340,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(S340,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(S340,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(S342,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{F9F19DA5-3B09-4B2F-9D89-C64753E3EAAB}: Format(In/Out)=(S342,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(S342,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(S342,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
D3D9 Overlay: Supported
DXVA-HD: Supported
DDraw Status: Enabled
D3D Status: Enabled
AGP Status: Enabled

-------------
Sound Devices
-------------
Description: Speakers (High Definition Audio Device)
Default Sound Playback: Yes
Default Voice Playback: Yes
Hardware ID: HDAUDIO\FUNC_01&VEN_10EC&DEV_0888&SUBSYS_104382FE&REV_1001
Manufacturer ID: 1
Product ID: 65535
Type: WDM
Driver Name: HdAudio.sys
Driver Version: 6.01.7601.17514 (English)
Driver Attributes: Final Retail
WHQL Logo'd: Yes
Date and Size: 11/20/2010 17:00:21, 304128 bytes
Other Files:
Driver Provider: Microsoft
HW Accel Level: Basic
Cap Flags: 0xF1F
Min/Max Sample Rate: 100, 200000
Static/Strm HW Mix Bufs: 1, 0
Static/Strm HW 3D Bufs: 0, 0
HW Memory: 0
Voice Management: No
EAX(tm) 2.0 Listen/Src: No, No
I3DL2(tm) Listen/Src: No, No
Sensaura(tm) ZoomFX(tm): No

Description: Digital Audio (S/PDIF) (High Definition Audio Device)
Default Sound Playback: No
Default Voice Playback: No
Hardware ID: HDAUDIO\FUNC_01&VEN_10EC&DEV_0888&SUBSYS_104382FE&REV_1001
Manufacturer ID: 1
Product ID: 65535
Type: WDM
Driver Name: HdAudio.sys
Driver Version: 6.01.7601.17514 (English)
Driver Attributes: Final Retail
WHQL Logo'd: Yes
Date and Size: 11/20/2010 17:00:21, 304128 bytes
Other Files:
Driver Provider: Microsoft
HW Accel Level: Basic
Cap Flags: 0xF1F
Min/Max Sample Rate: 100, 200000
Static/Strm HW Mix Bufs: 1, 0
Static/Strm HW 3D Bufs: 0, 0
HW Memory: 0
Voice Management: No
EAX(tm) 2.0 Listen/Src: No, No
I3DL2(tm) Listen/Src: No, No
Sensaura(tm) ZoomFX(tm): No

Description: Digital Audio (S/PDIF) (High Definition Audio Device)
Default Sound Playback: No
Default Voice Playback: No
Hardware ID: HDAUDIO\FUNC_01&VEN_10EC&DEV_0888&SUBSYS_104382FE&REV_1001
Manufacturer ID: 1
Product ID: 65535
Type: WDM
Driver Name: HdAudio.sys
Driver Version: 6.01.7601.17514 (English)
Driver Attributes: Final Retail
WHQL Logo'd: Yes
Date and Size: 11/20/2010 17:00:21, 304128 bytes
Other Files:
Driver Provider: Microsoft
HW Accel Level: Basic
Cap Flags: 0xF1F
Min/Max Sample Rate: 100, 200000
Static/Strm HW Mix Bufs: 1, 0
Static/Strm HW 3D Bufs: 0, 0
HW Memory: 0
Voice Management: No
EAX(tm) 2.0 Listen/Src: No, No
I3DL2(tm) Listen/Src: No, No
Sensaura(tm) ZoomFX(tm): No

---------------------
Sound Capture Devices
---------------------
-------------------
DirectInput Devices
-------------------
Device Name: Mouse
Attached: 1
Controller ID: n/a
Vendor/Product ID: n/a
FF Driver: n/a

Device Name: Keyboard
Attached: 1
Controller ID: n/a
Vendor/Product ID: n/a
FF Driver: n/a

Device Name: Controller (XBOX 360 For Windows)
Attached: 1
Controller ID: 0x0
Vendor/Product ID: 0x045E, 0x028E
FF Driver: n/a

Poll w/ Interrupt: No

-----------
USB Devices
-----------
+ USB Root Hub
| Vendor/Product ID: 0x8086, 0x3A36
| Matching Device ID: usb\root_hub
| Service: usbhub
| Driver: usbhub.sys, 3/25/2011 09:58:37, 258560 bytes
| Driver: usbd.sys, 3/25/2011 09:57:53, 5888 bytes

----------------
Gameport Devices
----------------

------------
PS/2 Devices
------------
+ Standard PS/2 Keyboard
| Matching Device ID: *pnp0303
| Service: i8042prt
| Driver: i8042prt.sys, 7/14/2009 06:11:24, 80896 bytes
| Driver: kbdclass.sys, 7/14/2009 08:20:36, 42576 bytes
|
+ Terminal Server Keyboard Driver
| Matching Device ID: root\rdp_kbd
| Upper Filters: kbdclass
| Service: TermDD
| Driver: i8042prt.sys, 7/14/2009 06:11:24, 80896 bytes
| Driver: kbdclass.sys, 7/14/2009 08:20:36, 42576 bytes
|
+ HID-compliant mouse
| Vendor/Product ID: 0x093A, 0x2510
| Matching Device ID: hid_device_system_mouse
| Service: mouhid
| Driver: mouhid.sys, 7/14/2009 06:45:08, 26112 bytes
| Driver: mouclass.sys, 7/14/2009 08:20:44, 41552 bytes
|
+ Terminal Server Mouse Driver
| Matching Device ID: root\rdp_mou
| Upper Filters: mouclass
| Service: TermDD
| Driver: termdd.sys, 11/20/2010 19:30:12, 53120 bytes
| Driver: sermouse.sys, 7/14/2009 06:45:08, 19968 bytes
| Driver: mouclass.sys, 7/14/2009 08:20:44, 41552 bytes

------------------------
Disk & DVD/CD-ROM Drives
------------------------
Drive: C:
Free Space: 19.1 GB
Total Space: 76.4 GB
File System: NTFS
Model: SAMSUNG HD322HJ ATA Device

Drive: D:
Free Space: 696.8 GB
Total Space: 1430.8 GB
File System: NTFS
Model: ST31500341AS ATA Device

Drive: E:
Free Space: 44.4 GB
Total Space: 152.6 GB
File System: NTFS
Model: SAMSUNG HD322HJ ATA Device

Drive: G:
Model: POJ 9M7WXIJ SCSI CdRom Device
Driver: c:\windows\system32\drivers\cdrom.sys, 6.01.7601.17514 (English), 11/20/2010 15:38:10, 108544 bytes

Drive: I:
Model: SXG 8DQNWXU ATA Device
Driver: c:\windows\system32\drivers\cdrom.sys, 6.01.7601.17514 (English), 11/20/2010 15:38:10, 108544 bytes

Drive: H:
Model: DTSOFT Virtual CdRom Device
Driver: c:\windows\system32\drivers\cdrom.sys, 6.01.7601.17514 (English), 11/20/2010 15:38:10, 108544 bytes

Drive: F:
Model: TSSTcorp CDDVDW TS-H652J ATA Device
Driver: c:\windows\system32\drivers\cdrom.sys, 6.01.7601.17514 (English), 11/20/2010 15:38:10, 108544 bytes

--------------
System Devices
--------------
Name: Intel(R) ICH10 Family USB Universal Host Controller - 3A39
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_3A39&SUBSYS_82D41043&REV_00\3&11583659&0&D2
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbuhci.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/25/2011 09:57:56, 24064 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbport.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/25/2011 09:58:07, 284672 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbhub.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/25/2011 09:58:37, 258560 bytes

Name: Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_3A20&SUBSYS_82D41043&REV_00\3&11583659&0&FA
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\pciide.sys, 6.01.7600.16385 (English), 7/14/2009 08:20:45, 12368 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\pciidex.sys, 6.01.7600.16385 (English), 7/14/2009 08:19:03, 42560 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\atapi.sys, 6.01.7600.16385 (English), 7/14/2009 08:26:15, 21584 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\ataport.sys, 6.01.7601.17514 (English), 11/20/2010 19:29:12, 132992 bytes

Name: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 260
Device ID: PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_05E2&SUBSYS_00000000&REV_A1\4&39043ADE&0&0008
Driver: C:\Program Files\NVIDIA Corporation\Drs\dbInstaller.exe, 8.17.0012.8562 (English), 10/15/2011 15:53:00, 192320 bytes
Driver: C:\Program Files\NVIDIA Corporation\Drs\nvdrsdb.bin, 10/15/2011 15:53:00, 316496 bytes
Driver: C:\Program Files\NVIDIA Corporation\license.txt, 5/21/2011 06:01:00, 15511 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\nvlddmkm.sys, 8.17.0012.8562 (English), 10/15/2011 15:53:00, 10327360 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\OpenCL.dll, 1.00.0000.0000 (English), 10/15/2011 15:53:00, 61248 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\nvapi.dll, 8.17.0012.8562 (English), 10/15/2011 15:53:00, 2458432 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\nvcompiler.dll, 8.17.0012.8562 (English), 10/15/2011 15:53:00, 17248576 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\nvcuda.dll, 8.17.0012.8562 (English), 10/15/2011 15:53:00, 5578560 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\nvcuvenc.dll, 8.17.0012.8562 (English), 10/15/2011 15:53:00, 2099520 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\nvcuvid.dll, 8.17.0012.8562 (English), 10/15/2011 15:53:00, 2401088 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\nvd3dum.dll, 8.17.0012.8562 (English), 10/15/2011 15:53:00, 13205312 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\nvinfo.pb, 10/15/2011 15:53:00, 4359 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\nvoglv32.dll, 8.17.0012.8562 (English), 10/15/2011 15:53:00, 18871616 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\nvwgf2um.dll, 8.17.0012.8562 (English), 10/15/2011 15:53:00, 7041856 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\nvdispco32.dll, 2.00.0018.0000 (English), 10/15/2011 15:53:00, 919872 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\nvgenco32.dll, 2.00.0013.0000 (English), 10/15/2011 15:53:00, 877376 bytes

Name: Intel(R) ICH10 Family USB Universal Host Controller - 3A38
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_3A38&SUBSYS_82D41043&REV_00\3&11583659&0&D1
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbuhci.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/25/2011 09:57:56, 24064 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbport.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/25/2011 09:58:07, 284672 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbhub.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/25/2011 09:58:37, 258560 bytes

Name: Intel(R) ICH10R LPC Interface Controller - 3A16
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_3A16&SUBSYS_82D41043&REV_00\3&11583659&0&F8
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\msisadrv.sys, 6.01.7600.16385 (English), 7/14/2009 08:20:43, 13888 bytes

Name: A7PX0S0O IDE Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_105A&DEV_3D73&SUBSYS_DFC24160&REV_01\4&5D18F2DF&0
Driver: n/a

Name: Intel(R) ICH10 Family PCI Express Root Port 6 - 3A4A
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_3A4A&SUBSYS_82D41043&REV_00\3&11583659&0&E5
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\pci.sys, 6.01.7601.17514 (English), 11/20/2010 19:30:06, 153984 bytes

Name: Intel(R) ICH10 Family USB Universal Host Controller - 3A37
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_3A37&SUBSYS_82D41043&REV_00\3&11583659&0&D0
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbuhci.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/25/2011 09:57:56, 24064 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbport.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/25/2011 09:58:07, 284672 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbhub.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/25/2011 09:58:37, 258560 bytes

Name: Intel(R) 4 Series Chipset PCI Express Root Port - 2E21
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_2E21&SUBSYS_82D31043&REV_03\3&11583659&0&08
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\pci.sys, 6.01.7601.17514 (English), 11/20/2010 19:30:06, 153984 bytes

Name: Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1025&DEV_5229&SUBSYS_4332E72F&REV_01\3&11583659&0&10
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\pciide.sys, 6.01.7600.16385 (English), 7/14/2009 08:20:45, 12368 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\pciidex.sys, 6.01.7600.16385 (English), 7/14/2009 08:19:03, 42560 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\atapi.sys, 6.01.7600.16385 (English), 7/14/2009 08:26:15, 21584 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\ataport.sys, 6.01.7601.17514 (English), 11/20/2010 19:29:12, 132992 bytes

Name: Intel(R) ICH10 Family PCI Express Root Port 5 - 3A48
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_3A48&SUBSYS_82D41043&REV_00\3&11583659&0&E4
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\pci.sys, 6.01.7601.17514 (English), 11/20/2010 19:30:06, 153984 bytes

Name: Intel(R) ICH10 Family USB Universal Host Controller - 3A36
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_3A36&SUBSYS_82D41043&REV_00\3&11583659&0&EA
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbuhci.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/25/2011 09:57:56, 24064 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbport.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/25/2011 09:58:07, 284672 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbhub.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/25/2011 09:58:37, 258560 bytes

Name: Intel(R) 4 Series Chipset Processor to I/O Controller - 2E20
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_2E20&SUBSYS_82D31043&REV_03\3&11583659&0&00
Driver: n/a

Name: Intel(R) ICH10 Family PCI Express Root Port 1 - 3A40
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_3A40&SUBSYS_82D41043&REV_00\3&11583659&0&E0
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\pci.sys, 6.01.7601.17514 (English), 11/20/2010 19:30:06, 153984 bytes

Name: Intel(R) ICH10 Family USB Universal Host Controller - 3A35
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_3A35&SUBSYS_82D41043&REV_00\3&11583659&0&E9
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbuhci.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/25/2011 09:57:56, 24064 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbport.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/25/2011 09:58:07, 284672 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbhub.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/25/2011 09:58:37, 258560 bytes

Name: Intel(R) 82801 PCI Bridge - 244E
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_244E&SUBSYS_82D41043&REV_90\3&11583659&0&F0
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\pci.sys, 6.01.7601.17514 (English), 11/20/2010 19:30:06, 153984 bytes

Name: High Definition Audio Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_3A3E&SUBSYS_82FE1043&REV_00\3&11583659&0&D8
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\hdaudbus.sys, 6.01.7601.17514 (English), 11/20/2010 16:59:29, 108544 bytes

Name: Intel(R) ICH10 Family USB Universal Host Controller - 3A34
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_3A34&SUBSYS_82D41043&REV_00\3&11583659&0&E8
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbuhci.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/25/2011 09:57:56, 24064 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbport.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/25/2011 09:58:07, 284672 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbhub.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/25/2011 09:58:37, 258560 bytes

Name: Atheros AR8121/AR8113/AR8114 PCI-E Ethernet Controller(NDIS6.20)
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1969&DEV_1026&SUBSYS_82261043&REV_B0\4&8372D40&0&00E5
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\L1E62x86.sys, 1.00.0000.0015 (English), 7/14/2009 05:02:47, 47104 bytes

Name: Intel(R) ICH10 Family USB Enhanced Host Controller - 3A3C
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_3A3C&SUBSYS_82D41043&REV_00\3&11583659&0&D7
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbehci.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/25/2011 09:57:58, 43008 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbport.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/25/2011 09:58:07, 284672 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbhub.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/25/2011 09:58:37, 258560 bytes

Name: Intel(R) ICH10 Family SMBus Controller - 3A30
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_3A30&SUBSYS_82D41043&REV_00\3&11583659&0&FB
Driver: n/a

Name: LSI 1394 OHCI Compliant Host Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_11C1&DEV_5811&SUBSYS_82941043&REV_70\4&1B359D48&0&18F0
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\1394ohci.sys, 6.01.7601.17514 (English), 11/20/2010 17:01:12, 164864 bytes

Name: Intel(R) ICH10 Family USB Enhanced Host Controller - 3A3A
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_3A3A&SUBSYS_82D41043&REV_00\3&11583659&0&EF
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbehci.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/25/2011 09:57:58, 43008 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbport.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/25/2011 09:58:07, 284672 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbhub.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/25/2011 09:58:37, 258560 bytes

Name: Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_3A26&SUBSYS_82D41043&REV_00\3&11583659&0&FD
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\pciide.sys, 6.01.7600.16385 (English), 7/14/2009 08:20:45, 12368 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\pciidex.sys, 6.01.7600.16385 (English), 7/14/2009 08:19:03, 42560 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\atapi.sys, 6.01.7600.16385 (English), 7/14/2009 08:26:15, 21584 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\ataport.sys, 6.01.7601.17514 (English), 11/20/2010 19:29:12, 132992 bytes

Name: Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_11AB&DEV_6121&SUBSYS_82E01043&REV_B2\4&116B1340&0&00E4
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\pciide.sys, 6.01.7600.16385 (English), 7/14/2009 08:20:45, 12368 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\pciidex.sys, 6.01.7600.16385 (English), 7/14/2009 08:19:03, 42560 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\atapi.sys, 6.01.7600.16385 (English), 7/14/2009 08:26:15, 21584 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\ataport.sys, 6.01.7601.17514 (English), 11/20/2010 19:29:12, 132992 bytes

------------------
DirectShow Filters
------------------

DirectShow Filters:
WMAudio Decoder DMO,0x00800800,1,1,WMADMOD.DLL,6.01.7601.17514
WMAPro over S/PDIF DMO,0x00600800,1,1,WMADMOD.DLL,6.01.7601.17514
WMSpeech Decoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,WMSPDMOD.DLL,6.01.7601.17514
MP3 Decoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,mp3dmod.dll,6.01.7600.16385
Mpeg4s Decoder DMO,0x00800001,1,1,mp4sdecd.dll,6.01.7600.16385
WMV Screen decoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,wmvsdecd.dll,6.01.7601.17514
WMVideo Decoder DMO,0x00800001,1,1,wmvdecod.dll,6.01.7601.17514
Mpeg43 Decoder DMO,0x00800001,1,1,mp43decd.dll,6.01.7600.16385
Mpeg4 Decoder DMO,0x00800001,1,1,mpg4decd.dll,6.01.7600.16385
Vorbis Decoder,0x00600000,1,1,OggDS.dll,0.09.0009.0005
FunUnify Audio Trnas Filter,0x00200000,1,1,FunCodecFilter.ax,1.00.0000.0001
ffdshow MPEG-4 Video Decoder,0xff800001,2,1,ffdshow.ax,1.00.0002.2015
ffdshow raw video filter,0x00200000,2,1,ffdshow.ax,1.00.0002.2015
ffdshow Audio Decoder,0x3fffffff,1,1,ffdshow.ax,1.00.0002.2015
DV Muxer,0x00400000,0,0,qdv.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Color Space Converter,0x00400001,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
WM ASF Reader,0x00400000,0,0,qasf.dll,12.00.7601.17514
Screen Capture filter,0x00200000,0,1,wmpsrcwp.dll,12.00.7601.17514
AVI Splitter,0x00600000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
VGA 16 Color Ditherer,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
SBE2MediaTypeProfile,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
FunUnify Async Filter,0x00600000,0,0,FunCodecFilter.ax,1.00.0000.0001
Microsoft DTV-DVD Video Decoder,0x005fffff,2,4,msmpeg2vdec.dll,6.01.7140.0000
AC3 Parser Filter,0x00600000,1,1,mpg2splt.ax,6.06.7601.17528
StreamBufferSink,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
Microsoft TV Captions Decoder,0x00200001,1,0,MSTVCapn.dll,6.01.7601.17715
MJPEG Decompressor,0x00600000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
CBVA DMO wrapper filter,0x00200000,1,1,cbva.dll,6.01.7601.17514
MPEG-I Stream Splitter,0x00600000,1,2,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
SAMI (CC) Parser,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
VBI Codec,0x00600000,1,4,VBICodec.ax,6.06.7601.17514
MPEG-2 Splitter,0x005fffff,1,0,mpg2splt.ax,6.06.7601.17528
Closed Captions Analysis Filter,0x00200000,2,5,cca.dll,6.06.7601.17514
SBE2FileScan,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
Microsoft MPEG-2 Video Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,msmpeg2enc.dll,6.01.7601.17514
Internal Script Command Renderer,0x00800001,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
MPEG Audio Decoder,0x03680001,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
DV Splitter,0x00600000,1,2,qdv.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Video Mixing Renderer 9,0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Microsoft MPEG-2 Encoder,0x00200000,2,1,msmpeg2enc.dll,6.01.7601.17514
Avi Source,0x00600001,0,0,AviSF.dll,1.00.0000.0001
ACM Wrapper,0x00600000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Video Renderer,0x00800001,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
MPEG-2 Video Stream Analyzer,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
FunUnify Codec Filter,0x00600000,0,0,FunCodecFilter.ax,1.00.0000.0001
Line 21 Decoder,0x00600000,1,1,qdvd.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Video Port Manager,0x00600000,2,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Video Renderer,0x00400000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Spectrum Analyzer,0x00200000,1,1,SpectrumAnlayzerFilter.ax,
VPS Decoder,0x00200000,0,0,WSTPager.ax,6.06.7601.17514
WM ASF Writer,0x00400000,0,0,qasf.dll,12.00.7601.17514
VBI Surface Allocator,0x00600000,1,1,vbisurf.ax,6.01.7601.17514
File writer,0x00200000,1,0,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Vorbis Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,OggDS.dll,0.09.0009.0005
iTV Data Sink,0x00600000,1,0,itvdata.dll,6.06.7601.17514
iTV Data Capture filter,0x00600000,1,1,itvdata.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Ogg Multiplexer,0x00400000,1,1,OggDS.dll,0.09.0009.0005
DVD Navigator,0x00200000,0,3,qdvd.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Microsoft TV Subtitles Decoder,0x00200001,1,0,MSTVCapn.dll,6.01.7601.17715
Overlay Mixer2,0x00200000,1,1,qdvd.dll,6.06.7601.17713
AVI Draw,0x00600064,9,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
RDP DShow Redirection Filter,0xffffffff,1,0,DShowRdpFilter.dll,
Microsoft MPEG-2 Audio Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,msmpeg2enc.dll,6.01.7601.17514
WST Pager,0x00200000,1,1,WSTPager.ax,6.06.7601.17514
MPEG-2 Demultiplexer,0x00600000,1,1,mpg2splt.ax,6.06.7601.17528
DV Video Decoder,0x00800000,1,1,qdv.dll,6.06.7601.17514
ffdshow Audio Processor,0x00200000,1,1,ffdshow.ax,1.00.0002.2015
FunUnify Encoder Filter,0x00200000,0,0,FunCodecFilter.ax,1.00.0000.0001
FunUnify Video Trans Filter,0x00200000,1,1,FunCodecFilter.ax,1.00.0000.0001
SampleGrabber,0x00200000,1,1,qedit.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Null Renderer,0x00200000,1,0,qedit.dll,6.06.7601.17514
MPEG-2 Sections and Tables,0x005fffff,1,0,Mpeg2Data.ax,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft AC3 Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,msac3enc.dll,6.01.7601.17514
StreamBufferSource,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
Smart Tee,0x00200000,1,2,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Overlay Mixer,0x00200000,0,0,qdvd.dll,6.06.7601.17713
AVI Decompressor,0x00600000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
NetBridge,0x00200000,2,0,netbridge.dll,6.01.7601.17514
AVI/WAV File Source,0x00400000,0,2,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Wave Parser,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
MIDI Parser,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Multi-file Parser,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
File stream renderer,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Microsoft DTV-DVD Audio Decoder,0x005fffff,1,1,msmpeg2adec.dll,6.01.7140.0000
StreamBufferSink2,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
AVI Mux,0x00200000,1,0,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Line 21 Decoder 2,0x00600002,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
File Source (Async.),0x00400000,0,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
File Source (URL),0x00400000,0,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Media Center Extender Encryption Filter,0x00200000,2,2,Mcx2Filter.dll,6.01.7601.17514
AudioRecorder WAV Dest,0x00200000,0,0,WavDest.dll,
AudioRecorder Wave Form,0x00200000,0,0,WavDest.dll,
SoundRecorder Null Renderer,0x00200000,0,0,WavDest.dll,
Ogg Splitter,0x00600000,1,1,OggDS.dll,0.09.0009.0005
NeowizBugs IRiver AEffect,0x00200000,1,1,nbirv4aef.dll,1.00.0009.0422
NeowizBugsIRiver,0x00200000,0,1,nbirv4src.dll,1.00.0009.0422
Infinite Pin Tee Filter,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
NeowizBugsIRiver OGG,0x00200000,1,1,nbirv4ogf.dll,1.00.0009.0422
Enhanced Video Renderer,0x00200000,1,0,evr.dll,6.01.7601.17514
BDA MPEG2 Transport Information Filter,0x00200000,2,0,psisrndr.ax,6.06.7601.17669
MPEG Video Decoder,0x40000001,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713

WDM Streaming Tee/Splitter Devices:
Tee/Sink-to-Sink Converter,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514

Video Compressors:
WMVideo8 Encoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,wmvxencd.dll,6.01.7600.16385
WMVideo9 Encoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,wmvencod.dll,6.01.7600.16385
MSScreen 9 encoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,wmvsencd.dll,6.01.7600.16385
DV Video Encoder,0x00200000,0,0,qdv.dll,6.06.7601.17514
ffdshow video encoder,0x00100000,1,1,ffdshow.ax,1.00.0002.2015
MJPEG Compressor,0x00200000,0,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Cinepak Codec by Radius,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Intel IYUV codec,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Intel IYUV codec,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft RLE,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft Video 1,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514

Audio Compressors:
WM Speech Encoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,WMSPDMOE.DLL,6.01.7600.16385
WMAudio Encoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,WMADMOE.DLL,6.01.7600.16385
Vorbis Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,OggDS.dll,0.09.0009.0005
IMA ADPCM,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
PCM,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Microsoft ADPCM,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
GSM 6.10,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
CCITT A-Law,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
CCITT u-Law,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
MPEG Layer-3,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713

PBDA CP Filters:
PBDA DTFilter,0x00600000,1,1,CPFilters.dll,6.06.7601.17528
PBDA ETFilter,0x00200000,0,0,CPFilters.dll,6.06.7601.17528
PBDA PTFilter,0x00200000,0,0,CPFilters.dll,6.06.7601.17528

Midi Renderers:
Default MidiOut Device,0x00800000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Microsoft GS Wavetable Synth,0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713

WDM Streaming Rendering Devices:
HD Audio Speaker,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514
HD Audio SPDIF out 5,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514
HD Audio SPDIF out,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514

BDA Network Providers:
Microsoft ATSC Network Provider,0x00200000,0,1,MSDvbNP.ax,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft DVBC Network Provider,0x00200000,0,1,MSDvbNP.ax,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft DVBS Network Provider,0x00200000,0,1,MSDvbNP.ax,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft DVBT Network Provider,0x00200000,0,1,MSDvbNP.ax,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft Network Provider,0x00200000,0,1,MSNP.ax,6.06.7601.17514

Multi-Instance Capable VBI Codecs:
VBI Codec,0x00600000,1,4,VBICodec.ax,6.06.7601.17514

BDA Transport Information Renderers:
BDA MPEG2 Transport Information Filter,0x00600000,2,0,psisrndr.ax,6.06.7601.17669
MPEG-2 Sections and Tables,0x00600000,1,0,Mpeg2Data.ax,6.06.7601.17514

BDA CP/CA Filters:
Decrypt/Tag,0x00600000,1,1,EncDec.dll,6.06.7601.17708
Encrypt/Tag,0x00200000,0,0,EncDec.dll,6.06.7601.17708
PTFilter,0x00200000,0,0,EncDec.dll,6.06.7601.17708
XDS Codec,0x00200000,0,0,EncDec.dll,6.06.7601.17708

WDM Streaming Communication Transforms:
Tee/Sink-to-Sink Converter,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514

Audio Renderers:
Speakers (High Definition Audio,0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Default DirectSound Device,0x00800000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Default WaveOut Device,0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Digital Audio (S/PDIF) (High De,0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
DirectSound: Digital Audio (S/PDIF) (High Definition Audio Device),0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
DirectSound: Speakers (High Definition Audio Device),0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713

---------------
EVR Power Information
---------------
Current Setting: {5C67A112-A4C9-483F-B4A7-1D473BECAFDC} (Quality)
Quality Flags: 2576
Enabled:
Force throttling
Allow half deinterlace
Allow scaling
Decode Power Usage: 100
Balanced Flags: 1424
Enabled:
Force throttling
Allow batching
Force half deinterlace
Force scaling
Decode Power Usage: 50
PowerFlags: 1424
Enabled:
Force throttling
Allow batching
Force half deinterlace
Force scaling
Decode Power Usage: 0
Oh, as far as the how on the strange message, I got it through windows action center. It wasn't some random popup like I've had in my more naive days, where my computer said bad words in German and scrambled my screen.Also, not to spam my own comment, it's the ST31500341AS ATA Device 'D:' drive on the dxdiag that is the one claiming to be going bad. I also use USENET on occasion, to my shame in some regards, due to the availability here in Thailand.Sounds like your Seagate Hard Drive is on its way out. You can download the SeaTools utility and run it, but if I were you I'd backup any critical data from d: drive and prepare to replace it.

http://www.seagate.com/www/en-us/support/downloads/seatoolsMachine name: Kilgore Trout.... Quote from: patio on January 27, 2012, 08:15:02 AM

Machine name: Kilgore Trout....

While inside, I discovered one of the two fans on my GTX 260 is busted clean off, so I've got to see if there is a cheap way to fix that, a I don't really need to upgrade quite yet (still plays anything I throw at it fairly well.

I wound up buying a 1TB seagate for $100 and am formatting and installing windows as I type this. As for data recovery, do you think one of those $30 usb to SATA cables would work, or should I take the drive to a shop? Or, are is my data gone and lost forever?

I recently purchased a MS wireless keyboard and mouse and it works great except for one minor thing:
the scroll wheel is a little too sensitive for my taste. Is there anyway to make it less sensitive?You can decrease the scroll speed of the mouse in control panel. Not sure and someone will probably correct me, but I think you can't change physical condition of the mouse. If the wheel was MADE to be sensitive.You're right. The thing you can change is how many lines it scrolls/wheel detent.Quote from: ultimatum on May 19, 2010, 11:47:24 AM

You can decrease the scroll speed of the mouse in control panel. Not sure and someone will probably correct me, but I think you can't change physical condition of the mouse. If the wheel was made to be sensitive.

I just put some tape over the scroll wheel to keep me from using it. There is usually a scroll bar on the side of a page, and I'll just use it instead.

You can decrease the scroll speed of the mouse in control panel. Not sure and someone will probably correct me, but I think you can't change physical condition of the mouse. If the wheel was made to be sensitive.

You're right. The thing you can change is how many lines it scrolls/wheel detent.

Hi guys, I receive several blackscreens after rebuilding my PC. Its running on Win7 64bit and my line up is this one:

Mobo: 870 c45
Gpu: 4870 Ati Radeon (sapphire)
CPU: phenom 965 3,4~Ghz
PSU: Chieftec 500s8
RAM: Gskill Ripjaws two sticks @ 4GB

I get blackscreens, when alt-tabbing (even on desktop without any applications running), PLAYING more older games like WoW/LoL andmoving the cursor into the TASKBAR to switch between e.g. browser windows.
Strange is, I neither get errors in Blendtest95, Memtest86+,GPU-Z and strangely NOR in battlefield3.
I tried several things before i decided to steal your time: Reinstalling Windows,drivers,drivercleaner in safe mode, starting with 640x480 and install drivers than, switching windows from energy effience mode to maximum and taking out my pc components.

Last but not least my gpu has two lights on when blackscreening d601, d1601, but honestly I THINK its not a gpu problem (it WORKS with bf3 not with alt-tabbing? wow). I only swapped ram/psu/mobo and the blackscreens occured.

THANKS <3

one day out of the blue my acer aspire 5532 STARTED to boot from a network and would not boot at all...I looked at the boot order and everything seemed FINE, then I noticed that in general bios info the hdd drive was not detected it would say "none" so I figured that it would need an update, so apparently i did have an update AVAILABLE so I successfully updated from ati 1.07 to ati 1.09, unfortunately it did not fix the hdd and cd drive problems it still tries to boot from a network and fails, I have tried disabling Network boot and it just says no boot device found please restart system...I KNOW that my hdd drive and cd drive work because I can hear the hdd drive spinning and the cd drive opens and closes just fine, Help Please!!Quote from: spitwats on May 21, 2010, 09:13:01 PM

I know that my hdd drive and cd drive work because I can hear the hdd drive spinning and the cd drive opens and closes just fine, Help Please!!

My son recently handed me his non functioning HP Pavilion dv4. The warranty just ran out from the Big Box store and I need to know which way to go, invest or forget.
It begins to start up. I see lights and hear a fan but only lasts for 4-5 seconds. If I try to boot again immediately, the lights and fan function for a GOOD 1 second plus or minus. That is all it will do. I tried pulling the battery and LET sit for a few minutes and I tried turning on without battery installed to no avail. If I let it sit overnight, it will boot for the 4-5 seconds again, then back to the 1 second rule. I thought of using a power pack from an OLD HP laptop I have, but of course the plug into the side of the laptop is a different size. The unit is a few years old and I'm truly a novice when it comes to computer repair. I am a 99%-er, A USER.

There's very little you can do to repair a laptop. Most of the time when you can't FIND the fault in any of the components that are field replacable it's in the mainboard which you can only repair with specialized equipment. If you can even find the fault. Most of the time these problems aren't visible with the naked eye.

Anyhow, here's a few tips.


• Clean the fan
• Look for burned or loose parts
• Press down on parts of the laptop mainboard that could have been subject to unusual amounts of pressure (like parts underneath the palm-rest) and see if you get a different result when turning it on
• Find the CMOS battery and replace it[/lo]
  
  • do a web search to see if someone had a similar problem and managed to find the part that's at fault.
  
  Once that's all done and you've verified that the RAM, CPU and power supply are in good condition you should probably see if you can find a replace mainboard.
  
  The problem with that is that unless it's new, it might have the very same fault or at least develop it in the future.
  
  lol. My list got entirely screwed up..

Hello,

I recently BOUGHT an i5 2500K PROCESSOR and unpacked it. At that stage I accidentally touched the pre-applied THERMAL compound on the stock cooler. The thermal compound is a tiny bit SMUDGED and clearly has my finger print in it, is this going to be a problem?



Thanks in advance.No problem AFAIK.unless its showin any of the actual HEAT sink, it should be fineYes it is going to be a problem. The fat on your fingers has now formed a layer between the CPU and the thermal grease, prohibiting heat transfer as intended by the manufacturer. It might also become hot and leave ugly marks.

I'd replace it but if you think thermal levels are acceptable after 48 hours, you could leave it on I suppose ...

Alright, so my friend was receiving a Thermal Error from her computer. She sent it to me and I TOOK out the CPU, an intel pentium 4, and cleaned off the old thermal paste and reapplied some ARCTIC Silver 5. However now instead of reading a Thermal Error on the monitor the monitor says it is receiving no signal at all, neither is the keyboard. When I plug it in and turn it on the motherboard and POWER lights come on, the fans spin as well, but that is all.

I read online that it may be a motherboard problem, or a RAM problem. They said to test this I should turn off the tower and pull out the RAM cards which should make the tower give a long beep. However, this did not happen, in fact nothing happened, no sounds at all. I turned it off and plugged in one card which ACCORDING to the site should have given me separate but consecutive beeps, this didn't happen either.

Could someone please help fix her computer?! ThanksReseat the CPU/heatsink and DOUBLE check thermal paste applied. The thermal events could have failing or damaged either components as you posted.

I have just purchased this Asrock Micro ATX Board and have run into the following PROBLEMS.
1.POST..POST halts at F1 every time it starts,when I press F1 it resumes the POST sequence and then BOOTS the WINDOWS 7 OS..SOMETIMES! or it will BOOT to a BLANK SCREEN.Following advice,I have changed the BATTERY to no avail,I have reset Bios to Default several times to no avail.Now I have a new problem as at shut down Windows 7 shuts down ok but the PC doesn't as F1 remains on a black POST screen and I have to switch off power at the PSU!
2.Is this Motherboard faulty beyond repair ie corrupt CMOS/BIOS or am I missing something? I have no Floppy drive installed so surely it cant be searching for that! Any comments help appreciated or anyone ELSE had similar problems with this Motherboard? Michael Is it a second hand mainboard? Did you reset the BIOS?I would return it. new from e buyer!Well I hope he makes good on it...don't wait any longer.I'd get a refund and buy Asus or Gigabyte. I stopped buying Asrock early 2000. Horrible brand.

I just made backup from computer to portable EXTERNAL drive ( IOMEGA)and noticed that it took ~138 GB of space in that HD, but everything in computer ,INCLUDING OS is about 96GB .Why there is a difference in volume?I `m gessing that becouse i have about 30GB in High Definition video in AVCHD H.264 format that beeing decoded to another format,and decompressed? Anybody have answer to it?So it's bad that you have 96G of data and the backup is 13G ? ?
What am i missing here ? ?
What backup app are you using ? ?Quote from: patio on May 17, 2010, 07:34:22 PM

So it's bad that you have 96G of data and the backup is 13G ? ?
What am i missing here ? ?
What backup app are you using ? ?

I am trying to log in to a Belkin router to reconfigure it for use as signal extender on my home wireless network. When I type and SEARCH 192.168.2.1 in my web browser, it preforms an internet search. I did GET in one time. I tried just about everything suggested in forum, but probably missed something. Router is teathered to computor via its ethernet port and one of the lan ports on the modem, but not to cable modem. When I ping 192.168.2.1 it appears to see the router. How can I search for the router on my computer without searching the entire web? Of course when I turn off my wireless connection, it goes nowhere. After many hours I resolve that I need help!

Thanks, JoeAre you CERTAIN that is the correct IP-address? Did you lift that off the manual?

Check the details on the Windows network interface to see what the gateway SAYS, that's the I.P you need to use in most cases if you're running DHCP on a simple home network.

You might have to reboot your router, sometimes the interfaces crashes and the router may yet work.Yes, it is the correct address and I have rebooted and preformed all the suggested solutions. I have accessed the modem from this computer once and made changes. Rebooted/reset the modem and still cannot log in to it.Try 192.168.0.1

Also some MODELS also have a pinhole reset....Must say I'm not too fond of Belkin. Does it assign an IP address? What's the gateway according to Windows?I used the Belkin as one the suggested units in a article at ehow on extending a Netgear wireless network.

http://www.ehow.com/how_6862867_extend-netgear-network.html

Belkins defualt IP address is 192.168.2.1

The gateway shows the ip address of the Netgear modem. The Belkin is just tethered for log in access.Try logging in to the Belkin with the Netgear off...I tried logging in with my laptop internet switch off. I get the old no internet connection. It is like it does not know the router is connected even though it shows communications during a ping of the ip address.

JoeAre both the Belkin and the Netgear set for DHCP? If so, there's your problem.

Hi I had two QUITE old computers that i bought from my old roommate that were working well for all my ACTIVITIES, surfing the internet, downloading large files, streaming videos, word processing. Anyway my friend was using one of them while i wasn't there an it stopped working. he said that smoke came out of the back while he was using it, which i' not sure is true he's a bit of a liar.

So i started using the other one that was not sufficient, no speakers, low processing speeds and so i took the power supply and the speakers from my the broken one and put them into the one that wasn't working.
Now it works well but i am having trouble playing games. i bought a PC game that suggested a new graphics card but as it is an old motherboard i had trouble fining one that would fit into the old PCI bus which I'm no sure what type i have.

So i searched andfound a compatible one but other than the pci type i didn't know what i was looking for. The card i ended up buying was a ATI Radeon 7500 (PCI Version). It fit into the motherboard and i tried to use it but i keep receiving an error message saying that i needed pixel shader 2.0 or more. I asked on another forum and was told that it runs directX9 and i could use this card with the RIGHT software and drivers. I went to the AMD WEBSITE to download the right drivers and software but when i try to run CATALYST control centre i get an error message saying that i must install a standard VGA driver before running the setup.
I can't find an appropriate VGA driver and the help i am looking for is does anyone know if i can use this graphics card to play PC games like GTA: San Andreas, does it support pixel shader 2.0 and directX9. If so what should i do to make it work. I'm not sure what information you might need to help me so I'll tell you everything i think is relevant. My motherboard is HP business Compaq Evo d330. I am running Windows XP and i have 256MB of ram with 1GB being delivered soon.Do i have a PCI express , what is the best graphics i can buy to use with my motherboard. I have a 2.8Ghz Intel Pentium 4 CPU. Please help me an if you need anymore information to help I'll give it Thanks for reading. It's not a driver issue...
Card does NOT have pixel shading 2.0....
Card only supports up to DirectX 8.0....

You are asking it to do something it wasn't built for.can you suggest a graphics card for my motherboard that is capable of pixel shading?I doubt there are ani for a PCI slot...so i would need a new motherboard?
You'd need a new computer. It's far too old to play games on released in the past 5 or 6 years. At least high-end titles, any way.

Recently my computer has been hanging more than it boots, especially when I left the computer off for more than the time it takes to reboot.

I organised a technician to come take a look. He said it was the motherboard, which surprised me. Anyway, $170+ and a new motherboard later, same problem.

FORTUNATELY after the first reboot which died after two hours into the PC being on (which was strange, because once on it had previously survived for days), I managed to finally get another boot to work and quickly BACKED up all my files (yes! thankyou! there is a God!).

My question is this - the harddisk is now failing randomly during bootup, yet still boots ok occassionally. The Windows XP SP3 on it is old and worn and hasnt been re-setup for about 2 years. If I reformat this disk, is it likely to work? And should I trust the resulting disk? Is it possible a reformat will fix this hardware-like error? Is there anyone who has expereinced this problem, done a reformat with their disk, and had it work like new again?

Thanks, MatIf I reformat this disk, is it likely to work?

The format may fail or it may complete. Hardware failure cannot be arrested by formatting. In fact the intensive head movements might just finish the drive off.

And should I trust the resulting disk?

Formatting is not a magic fix for failing hard drives.

Is it possible a reformat will fix this hardware-like error?

It is possible that a format will map out bad sectors. but if the disk really is failing, then it will soon grow some more.

Is there anyone who has expereinced this problem, done a reformat with their disk, and had it work like new again?

I have experienced this problem, formatted the disk, and had it carry on failing.

If your hard drive has shown signs of failure, and you have been lucky enough to get your data off it, you should know that it is time to cut your losses and get a new drive. Many people don't like to face up to the reality of hardware failure, and go into a sort of "maybe I can fix this with a magic tweak" denial frame of mind. Be a man and ditch that drive!





bottom line...

Quote

the harddisk is now failing randomly during bootup, yet still boots ok occassionally

a) what am i meant to be getting real about?

Hey, I'm happy to be as brutal as the next pragmatic. But I'm not going to waste a resource if I can save it.

The power comes on when i turn my computer on but the hdd light doesn't come on and then it shuts down. Can someone tell me why that happens?More information on the computer model, operating SYSTEM and changes MADE. Any previous problem ENCOUNTERED going to the issue at hand? windows 7 and this just started happeningDo the fans spin? At first blush it SOUNDS like the power supply may be shot.

At normal shutdown the computer starts up again 1 second after the fan stops. I have tried removing the start button and the re-set button`s. the only way to STOP it is with the wall switch.


I run windows xp professional with service pack 3. 2.2 ghz Intel core 2 duo, Mother Board is a Gigabyte tech 81865GME-775-RH R2.0 Bus Clock 200 meg. Bios is Award software Int FE with 2032 meg of INSTALLED memory The hard drive is 500.10 Gig.
Please has anyone got any ideas what is causing this prob.There might be a SETTING for that in the BIOS. I'm thinking something to do with MOUSE movement, or possibly something in the Power Settings.Boot to safe mode. Now try to shut it down. What happens?Hi Alan, re computer will not shut down.
Yes have tried that with no result, plus a few others that have been sugested,
now it looks like a visit to the local repair shop.
Will post on here when i find out the results cheers Gaslamp.SOUNDS like a faulty power supply.Also sounds like a power supply problem to me. Had a similar problem before and had a spare p/s so decided to try it and never had that particular problem again. It's also possible that the power button may be stuck in the 'on' position. Can you hear the distinctive click when you press it?

sorry for the late reply, im currently using win7 home premium at 64bit. and i USE this LAPTOP for video/photo EDITING and gaming. and the RAM i think is a ddr3

Computer

Processor-Intel Core i5-2400 3.1GHz 64 bit Quad-Core Processor

Memory-8GB (2GBx4) DDR3 1333

Hard Drive-1TB SATA III

Optical Drive 1-24X DL DVD+/-RW Drive

Graphics-NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 1GB

Audio-Sound card - Integrated

Power Supply Unit-700W XION

I moved to Italy from the United States and upon my arrival i was very anxious to hook up my computer which i have only had for 2 months now. It has been working perfect, but upon starting my computer I forgot to turn the little red switch on the back from 115 to 230v so when i started up the computer their came a single popping noise coming from the Power Supply. I immediately turned off the computer. After this I switched the computer to 230v and attempted to turn it on again, now all the fans spin, the lights turn on, the disk drive opens but no image appears on the screen. Since I am in Italy with no car and i don't speak Italian i am having troubles finding a new power supply and was wondering if that is all that needs replacing, or if it needs replacing at all?

And I have tested the screens with another computer and they both work.You can test the PSU, but from your description, some of it is working: +12V (fans, drives) & +5V (lights). You'll need a multimeter. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ATX
If all tests OK, it's the motherboard.
Some psu's are wide input range with no switch, don't know what's available in Italy.

I've actually done the reverse, 230VAC setting plugged into 115VAC. It just didn't power up & made a lot of buzzing.
You'll need a new power supply.Hi

Lucky you MOVING to Italy. Perhaps just order one from the UK or USA and have it sent over. or have the company that supplied the computer send a replacement. Ask as it's so new to have it declared as war rantee parts no value so you won't have to pay any customs or tax. It is most likely the 5v standby supply that has failed and the rest of the supply is OK. You could confirm this by shorting the green wire to a black wire and if the powersupply starts then it's the 5v standby still won't fix it but could get you going

Lisa
It's more likely that a bunch of capacitors blew up... But I LIKE the idea of hotwiring a computer.Quote from: Raptor on January 13, 2012, 01:32:44 PM

It's more likely that a bunch of capacitors blew up... But I like the idea of hotwiring a computer.

The shorting of those wires is standard fault finding practice.

They don't need to find a fault. There is one there as a result of accidentally leaving the switch on 115v.

Also, last I checked, the green wire was the PSU ON. I'm not really sure how shorting that to the ground would tell us anything about the standby voltage, which is the purple wire, nor do I see what the standby voltage would have to do with starting the computer/PSU, since that is more or less dictated by the PSU_ON signal; Of course you could short that out, but considering it's impossible to know what other damage was caused I don't see it as a good idea.

I trying to build the ultimate gaming and multimedia computer on certain requirements. Here's where I am at so so far cost is expected to be high and have future upgrade/expandability any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
1. cooler master HAF X full tower
2. PSU: cooler master silent pro gold series RSA00-80GAD3-US
3. MOTHERBOARD: MSI X79A-GD45 Intel X79 ATX
4. cpu: INTEL CORE I7 390X (bx80619i73960X)
5. CPU cooling: Corsair CWCH HLIDRO H80 LIQUID cooling system
6. RAM: Corsair Vengence 16 Gb (4x4Gb)
7. Video card: EVGA 01G-P3-1561-AR GeForce GTX 560Ti
8. Sound card: Creative Sound BLASTER X-Fi Titanium HD
9. Hard Drive: Western Digital Caviar Black 7200rpm, 1TB
10.CD/DVD: Samsung SH-B123L
11. Network card: ROSEWILL RC-411
12. Wireless adapter: Cisco Valet AM10
13. Wireless router: Zuni Digital ZTRP150
I know its gonna be expensive but can somebody tell me if this is a good configuration. Thank you.

I only have one observation and keep inmind it's strictly opinion...
I'd never select an MSI MBoard for a high end rig...ok then what would you suggest?
If budget is within range i personally would currently select an ASUS or Gigabyte board,ok thanks
ok how about?











GIGABYTE GA-X79-UD3 LGA 2011 Intel X79 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

Average Rating





I have one of those and I haven't had a problem with it yet. AMD variant, though.

Hello there.
I've had some trouble with my HP Pavilion home computer, which is running Vista.
I couldn't get the computer to boot up, so some folks over in the malware area suggested I TRY Reatogo-X-PE. I've been able to boot up USING the Reatogo-X-PE and I am able to SEE the DATA I need to pull off the old PC.
I also have an external hard disk ("My Passport") attached to the old PC via a USB port in the front of the machine. I need to back up my very important data by pulling it off the old PC's internal hard disk and put it onto the external hard disk. The problem is that I can't see the external hard disk via lookng at "My Computer." I can, however, see the external hard disk by going to Control PANEL > Administrative Tools > Disk Management.

Can anyone help me to move files from my internal hard disk to my external hard disk?I managed to get this taken care of by running Ubuntu and using that to move the data. Thanks anyway. Sounds like the external hard drive needs to be initiated or partitioned. If you never used it before, that's probably the case.

my MOTHERBOARD is compatible with DDR2 PC2-6400, but i have DDR2 PC6400, are the two same?
Please help me out.
Thanks
Additional Details
If yes, will it give any benefit to me? and will it be SUFFICIENT for Windows 7?
You need a minimum of 4GB of RAM to RUN Windows 7 smoothly.

The two types of RAM you mentioned are the same. The problem is that the whole RAM is so over-marketed that no one really knows what they're talking about any more. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DDR2_SDRAM#Specification_standardsQuote from: Raptor on JANUARY 17, 2012, 04:11:05 AM

You need a minimum of 4GB of RAM to run Windows 7 smoothly...

Can I remove a hard drive from an AMD computer and install it in an Intel computer without problems ?Yes.

However if it has a version of Windows installed on it that is newer than Win2K it most likely will not boot properly on the new machine as Windows is tied to the hardware it was originally installed on.
You could however hook it up as a slave drive and retrieve/copy any important data from it...

What's on this HDD ? ?It has windows xp sp3 on it. It has some small business files on it that I cannot loose.As patio says, you will probably not be able to boot to Windows. You can either slave the drive or copy the important data to off disc media before moving it.I am not sure if i even know how to set it up as a slave. Even if I get that ACCOMPLISHED, how do I get windows to the new computer and HDD ?If the new computer did not ship with Windows already installed (and that would be highly unusual) then you need to install it yourself. Why don't you just give us the whole story so we can TRY to provide some intelligent help?Quote from: bear10 on May 11, 2010, 08:06:18 PM

Can I remove a hard drive from an AMD computer and install it in an Intel computer without problems ?

Allan The computer is not a new computer, just new to me and has no operating system. Actually I am going a step back because the AMD computer is faster than the intel, but the AMD is getting flakey, as most older AMD's tend to do.

earlier post you said "It has windows xp sp3 on it" so which is it??? none or xp...!!!

Read the thread again. It's very clear what's going on.

Maybe YOU need to read it again...!!!

I am about to my a new desktop, with gaming in mind, but my budget is extremely low for gaming computers. Here's what i got so far : Gateway DX4860-UR32P (PT.GCCP2.016) Desktop PC Intel Core i5 2320(3.00GHz) 6GB DDR3 1.5TB HDD Capacity Intel HD Graphics 2000 Windows 7 Home Premium 64-Bit-600 Bucks

EVGA 01G-P3-1556-KR GeForce GTX 550 Ti (Fermi) FPB 1GB 192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card 140 bucks

Corsair - Gaming Series 600-Watt ATX CPU Power Supply 80 bucks

Hd monitor at best buy 170 bucks

Sentey Burton Extreme Division Tower Case 6x FAN LED/ 4 x USB / Multi Card Reader / 4 x Fan Control / E-SATA / 6 x Removable Aluminum Bays / Screwless 110 Bucks

So does all of this FIT together? Thanks I looked at gateway site and did not see specs on expansion slots available. I would guess it has a PCIe x16 slot, but I'm not sure.

other then that it all looks good to me.. I would find a better deal on a monitor like a ACER 24in for $130 ...23in at the least.I DONT think I will be expanding, so it all looks good ?? Thanks alot for the help!the expanding I mean is an available port/slot for the
EVGA 01G-P3-1556-KR GeForce GTX 550 Ti

I'm sure it has one but not seen it in specs..

Quote from: lijet03 on January 26, 2012, 02:14:14 AM

First when this happens TAKE hook monitor to another TOWER or source to check,,,if ok than uninstall
graphic card and its drivers, use O.S DEFAULT drivers (installed AUTOMATICALLY after reboot) to
run any ONBOARD integrated graphics ( my Asus M.B. has ATI X1250 w/ 690g chiopset)
IF you the get output completlty uninstall al onboard Graphics drivrs ( add/ remove AND
check System Device Manager ) then plug in say your PCI express 16x card ,again your windows OS will install a default or use CD rom that came w/ card. Sounds like you tried to rum card before taking out old drivers....YOU say well I.m not using the same output but many cards will not work withold onboard drivers installed (WHETHER YOU USE THEM OR NOT!!!) True Hope this helps

I'm trying to setup qemu and the bat file my prof gave was
qemu -L bios -m 512 -cdrom ..\deblive.iso -hda disk.qcow2 -boot d -net nic,vlan=0 -net USER,vlan=0 hostfwd=tcp::2222-:22 -USB -usbdevice tablet

the problem is my iso file isn't in the cdrom but in the HARDRIVE c/VM/deblive.iso
can someone please tell me how to change it. this is my first time touching these stuff and I don't know what's the code for the c drive
OOPS sorry for posting on wrong location ><. It changed it while i was registering.nvm please REMOVE this

a broken port.

in the past, I've had all the usb PORTS STOP working after connecting a palm pilot to the pc. I had a technician come and he said he had to reformat the computer, and then they worked again. this happened several times.
I once reformatted myself, though I forgot how. I think the main problem in reformatting is I had to not onbly first copy all the data and then after reformatting, replace it, but reinstall all the software.

Now, recently, someone TRIED to insert a usb key into a usb port that was already broken, and since then, none of the usb ports work.
A technician I spoke to said to just install a new usb card. I just wanted to double check, before I do that, if someone out there agrees that that is the first thing to try. thanks.
A PCI USB addon card is approx. 20 Bucks...5 minutes to install...

Meanwhile put some tape over the broken one.A 15-20 dollar USB card is well worth the time you would spend reformatting, reinstalling, and getting frustrated when this happens. Cover up the non-working ports and pimp slap the person who keeps putting the usb stick in the port.thank you Are these ports on the front of the case? or at the rear of the case?

If they are at the front, it would be worth investigating/removing the connector for the front PANEL. Iv'e seen a few cases where the front ones are broken, so the connectors short out and then the rest on the back stop working also.Dear Kurtiskain:
Just read your advice now. Thanks. I srongly suspect that the connectors shorted out, as you said. I think the original broken one was on the front pane. But how do I remover the connector for the front panel? I have already installed a new usb 2/0 controller card, as many suggested, and still they don't work. If the connectors at the front are shorting it is likely drawing all the load off the 5V line for your motherboard. Follow the connections frn the front of your case toward the motherboard the USB connector plugs are usually blue in colour and the pins are arranged in this pattern on the motherboard
::::.
With the cables running to it being red, white, green, black.

The other possibility is that the drivers for the USB card are not installed.

I am attempting to use my projector as a display for my computer. I have connected my computer to the projector digitally (dvi-hdmi connection from an ati hd4670 on my computer - hdmi cable - hdmi input on projector). My projector is 720p while my computer monitor is 1080. I have different resolution settings for both monitors to adjust it as necessary. No resolution that I have tried will show the image on the projector even though the computer recognizes the projector. For some odd reason, when I restart the computer, the projector will show the beginning boot of the computer on the screen, but then it will go to the blank blue screen once my computer is up and running.

Dell Support has accessed my computer remotely and had no luck and recommended I contacted a SERVICE I would have to pay for.

Any suggestions?

Computer: Dell Studio 540

Projector: Mitsubishi HC1600J2, See if this helps. http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/31687-35-projector-laptop truenorthThanks for your help, unfortunately I had no luck. I do not have a function key on my keyboard but I attempted to find other hotkeys that might do the same thing to set it to another display, still to no avail. I make SURE everything is set up, plugged in, projector on before I start my computer.

Attached is a screenshot of what I am SHOWING, as it recognizes the projector but will only display at startup of the computer until it hits bluescreen.



[attachment deleted by admin]Updated drivers, tried different setups, nothing worked via HDMI......there goes a cable.

Connected via Computer DVI - VGA Converter - VGA Cable - VGA Input on projector and received image.

Unfortunately if I have both displays setup upon startup, my computer will attempt to startup but both screens won't show anything. Therefore I have to unplug the DVI from my computer everytime I startup if I want to connect to the projector.

Any suggestions on why the displays are not showing anything and my computer won't start up? It is frustrating as this is a brand new computer.
For STARTERS, it would take starting your own topic instead of hijacking SOMEONE else's topic.Computer projector is 720p, while computer monitor is 1080.
I have different resolution settings for both monitors to adjust it as necessary.
Projector is 720p while computer monitor is 1080.
It was really good information,thanks for your site.

Well I just got off the phone with HP as well as one of their distributors in trying to find the Power Supply I needed but to no avail! I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction?

HP Pavilion 7955 Desktop

The factory power supply model is BST ATX 1956DA. Its an older model psu with a 20 pin connection.

Any help would be AWESOME thanks!I wish i were in a position to point you to a specific interchangeable PSU for your computer model. I am including an HP document that is designed to assist in how to go about determining a suitable replacement. I am also including a reference to a specific alternative that i would suggest you investigate to it's suitability and availability.http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=bph07139&cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en&product=62740
http://www.outletpc.com/da7661.html
There may be others that purport to be interchangeable. I urge you to use the search parameter "interchangeable alternative psu for an HP Pavilion 7955 Desktop" and see what comes up. good luck,truenorthDid you try Ebay? Any ATX 20 pin PSU will work...doesn't have to come from HP...
Some 24 pin PSU's will work as well...the extra 4 pins are not used.patio, Hopefully the range of options for the O/P is as extensive as you suggest. However my own limited knowledge in this area (specifically HP PSU's) is it becomes less of a concern as to abilities to provide the proper voltages and connections but rather the limitations incorporated by HP as to physical space CONFORMATIONS that HP seems to go to some lengths to create that insist on THEIR own HARDWARE. Hope that is NOT the case here. truenorth http://www.cputopia.com/psu-replacement-300w-hp-compaq-7955.html?gclid=CLaM6dis2K0CFY-R7QodPSW02wThe worst I ever had to do was with an old Pentium 4 Dell tower, they didn't have the proper opening in the back of the case for the power CORD to connect so I had to drill my own, but even with their proprietary design and tight fit, the power supply was still the same size and installed the same as any other one i've seen. I've never seen a power supply that was a strange size or a specific voltage only that any other manufacturer's PSU did not fit and work.Dell had some: http://www.informit.com/articles/article.aspx?p=339053

So I've been having trouble sleeping, so I decided to get back on my COMPUTER and I went to the internet, was listening music and watching youtube and I noticed this popup at the bottom right came up, and said "Display Driver stopped responding and has recovered". I thought, ok this was weird. I continued on, noticing a little bit of lag when I tried to watch a VIDEO and it wasnt working properly. Well, I full SCREENED a video and my PC ended up bluescreening on me! This has never happened before, and I had just installed a new update for AMD Vision Engine Control Center, (I think it was at like a 12.1 update).

So, does anyone know what this means and what I should do?Since it just started i would roll back that update you installed...it may very well be the issue.Heh, I also had a BLUESCREEN after an AMD driver update while listening to music and watching VIDEOS online a few weeks back. Never happened before to me and hasn't returned.Yeah, I just updated to 12.1 or whatever, but if I have to be honest, I was a bit pushy when starting programs and had alot going. I've gotten into that habit. I noticed when it restarted, it was slow as *censored* to load up, but seems to be doing fine right now so far.

During a move to another APT ,LOST the dc TRANS former,label came off SPKRS so I don,t know what voltage to replace the transformer ( AC to dc plug) PLease if you own a T3958 and got sprks with it
what is their model # Thank You